Treasured Landscapes SPECIAL EDITION
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WINTER – SPRING 2012
RESTORING OUR
TREASURED LANDSCAPES
CREATING
UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
O F F I C I A L M AGA Z I N E O F T H E N AT I O N A L F O R E S T F O U N DAT I O N
CONSERVATION DESERVES MORE THAN 2%*
* CONSERVATION ONLY RECEIVES 2% OF ALL CHARITABLE GIVING. MOST PEOPLE BELIEVE IT DESERVES MORE. SOURCE: GIVING USA.
Conservation and the environment receive just 2% of charitable giving in America. Put simply, conservation is not as well supported as it must be to ensure our future quality of life.
SUPPORT OUR CHALLENGE TO BENEFIT
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Preventative action to maintain the health of our air, waters, lands and forests costs a fraction of what we will sacrifice if we neglect our responsibilities. Conservation has one of the highest returns on investment of all charitable work. It builds strong, sustainable local economies. The Earth Friends Challenge supports exceptional groups that are known for their efficiency and effectiveness. National Forest Foundation’s work is essential to our lives and to future generations. THERE IS NO TIME TO LOSE. PLEASE INVEST IN THE NATIONAL FOREST FOUNDATION TODAY!
Join the thousands of individuals who play a part in helping to care for your National Forests everyday. If youʼre one of the millions who love to camp, hike, ski, hunt, fish, or paddle, we invite you to stay informed and get involved.
HELP PROTECT AMERICAʼS BACKYARD
These forests belong to each of us. With use comes a responsibility to care for your National Forests. How will you exercise that responsibility? As a Friend of the Forest®, weʼll show you how. Become a Friend of the Forest® at www.nationalforests.org.
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INSIDE THIS EDITION Photo © Clint Spencer / iStockPhoto.com
Treasured Landscapes SPECIAL EDITION This special issue is dedicated to the NFF’s Treasured Landscapes conservation campaign and the many amazing places set aside for all to enjoy within our National Forest System.
INTRODUCTIONS 4 Welcome
Hidden treasure
DEPARTMENTS 5 Voices from the Forest
Protecting America’s backyard
14 Angeles National Forest In praise of volunteers
16 Treasured Landscapes Conservation across the country
20 Ocala National Forest Restoring “Old Florida”
23 Pike National Forest
Land of devastation and hope
26 Tongass National Forest Salmon in the trees
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32 Stewardship Funds
Stay, play, make a difference
Treasured Landscapes
Ozark National Forest
YOUR NATIONAL FORESTS Official Magazine of the National Forest Foundation
Editor-in-Chief Jennifer Schoonen Contributors Hannah Ettema, Amy Gulick, Karly Hedrick, John S. Hendricks, Kimberly Langmaid, Ph.D., William J. Possiel, Jennifer Schoonen, Nerissa Sintetos
The National Forest Foundation engages Americans in community-based and national programs that promote the health and public enjoyment of the 193-million-acre National Forest System, and administers private gifts of funds and land for the benefit of the National Forests.
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Graphic Artist Jennifer Frandsen, Old Town Creative Communications, LLC Business Development Jennifer Schoonen 406-542-2805, x. 3354
INSIDE THIS EDITION Photos Courtesy of Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie; U.S. Forest Service; Stella Torres, NFF
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Treasured Landscapes
Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
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Treasured Landscapes
Tale of Two Rivers on the Deschutes National Forest
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Kids & Nature
Inspiring the Next Generation NATIONAL FOREST FOUNDATION
Building 27, Suite 3, Fort Missoula Road Missoula, Montana 59804 406-542-2805
We welcome your letters and feedback, however, we cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. © 2012 National Forest Foundation and Old Town Creative Communications, LLC. No unauthorized reproduction of this material is allowed.
ABOUT THE COVER PHOTO © Martha Marks / Veer.com Coconino National Forest
Your National Forests magazine is printed on recycled paper with 30% post-consumer content. This magazine’s use of FSC® certified paper ensures the highest environmental and social standards have been followed in the wood sourcing, paper manufacturing and print production of this magazine. To learn more log on to www.fsc.org.
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WELCOME
HIDDEN TREASURE NOT FAR FROM HOME By Bill Possiel, NFF President You have hidden treasures in your expanded backyard—national treasures of incalculable value! These treasures were made possible because of many visionary people. Thanks to them, we now have an amazing bounty of natural wonders available for all of us to share and enjoy. In fact two-thirds of the American public lives within 100 miles of one of our 155 National Forests and 20 National Grasslands. While more and more Americans look out of their windows at a National Forest, all of us have a stake in their future. The National Forest System cleans our air and filters fresh water for 123 million people—more than enough reason to make a collective commitment to being good stewards. A recent news story highlighted a study indicating that, after enduring the financial impact of the recession, “a whopping number of Baby Boomers say money isn’t the most important thing they hope to leave to their kids.” They don’t just want to leave an inheritance; they want to leave a legacy. While perspectives vary
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widely on what that legacy looks like, a majority of people concur that a healthy environment is a legacy we must leave to the next generation. We see growing numbers of people who understand the importance of conservation, its effect on their quality of life, and are passing that value on to their children and grandchildren. A bipartisan study recently released by Colorado College illustrates this trend. Walt Hecox, professor at Colorado College and director of the “State of the Rockies Project,” said in a news release about the survey results, “While there are differences of opinion on a range of issues, there are true common values shared between each state, including a commitment to protect the important natural resources that make this region so unique.” Indeed, 87 percent of Western voters say that “having clean water, clean air, natural areas, and wildlife” is either extremely (47 percent) or very (40 percent) important to their quality of life. This and other studies reinforce environmental values as American values, and clearly public lands such as our National Forests and Grasslands figure prominently. Unlike treasures that we store in a safe or protect in a museum, the vast natural wealth of the 193-millionacre National Forest System is open for the public to enjoy … to birdwatch, fish, hike, bike, hunt, ski, and contemplate the diversity of life they harbor. These national treasures also provide a place to consider what legacy each generation, from Baby Boomers to Millennials, will leave for those who will walk these trails, float these rivers, and drink these waters, in the years to come. That is the focus of the National Forest Foundation’s Treasured Landscapes, Unforgettable Experiences conservation campaign. We seek to increase awareness of the many values of the National Forest System, encourage people to enjoy their expanded backyard, engage the public in caring for these places, and support the long-term stewardship of our national treasures. We invite you to visit these remarkable places, get involved, and help support and care for them. Leave a legacy.
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National Forest Foundation Building 27, Suite 3, Fort Missoula Road Missoula, Montana 59804 406-542-2805 William J. Possiel, President Mary Mitsos, Vice President Jennifer Schoonen, Vice President Board of Directors Executive Committee Chairman, John Hendricks Founder and Chairman, Discovery Communications Inc. (MD) Vice Chairman, Craig R. Barrett CEO/Chairman of the Board, Intel Corporation (AZ), Retired Vice Chairman, David Bell Creative Realities (NY) Treasurer, Bradley K. Johnson CAO, CFO, Recreational Equipment Inc., Retired (WA) Secretary, Timothy Proctor Schieffelin Source Capital Group, JSBO Realty & Capital Inc. (CT) Committee Member, Peter Foreman Sirius LP (IL) Committee Member, Thomas Tidwell Ex-Officio, Chief, USDA Forest Service (DC) Mike Brown, Founder & Partner, AOL Ventures (NY); Coleman Burke, President, Waterfront Properties (NY); Robert Cole, Partner, Collins Cockrel & Cole, P.C. (CO); Bart Eberwein, Executive Vice President, Hoffman Construction Co. (OR); Robert Feitler, Chairman of the Executive Committee, Weyco Group Inc. (IL); Lee Fromson, Vice President of Gear and Apparel, Recreational Equipment Inc. (WA); Roje Gootee, Co-owner & Manager, Rush Creek Ranch (OR); Robert Katz, CEO, Vail Resorts (CO); Jack Sahl, Director for Environment & Resource Sustainability, Southern California Edison (CA); Susan Schnabel, Managing Director, Credit-Suisse (CA); Mary Smart, New Rochelle (NY); Chad Weiss, Managing Director, JOG Capital Inc. (WY); James C. Yardley, President, El Paso Pipeline Group (TX) The official magazine of the National Forest Foundation, Your National Forests magazine, is published twice yearly by Old Town Creative Communications LLC and the National Forest Foundation. Copyright © 2012 Your National Forests Magazine, Old Town Creative Communications LLC and National Forest Foundation. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Printed in U.S.A. on 100% recycled paper containing 30% post-consumer content and using Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified paper and processes that adhere to the highest social and environmental standards. Please recycle or pass on to a friend.
VOICES FROM THE FOREST Photo © Shannon Forehand / iStockPhoto.com
Two young hikers in Wiminuche Wilderness, San Juan National Forest, Colorado.
PROTECTING AMERICAʼS BACKYARD By John S. Hendricks
In 1982 when I established the Cable Educational Network, the predecessor of Discovery Communications, I recognized the power of cable television to transform the public’s understanding of a range of issues, including the natural world. Our goal with Discovery began with a commitment “to satisfy curiosity and make a difference in people’s lives,” and we noted early on that people are captivated by the wonders of animals and nature. I am one of those people. Having spent a lot of time in southwestern Colorado, I began to get a better sense of the scale of public lands and their importance to the very nature of the American West. The media and accessibility of information electronically have helped a growing number of Americans recognize that they have an expanded backyard in the public estate. Inspiring places where we have room to roam and reconnect with nature, our National Forests and Grasslands are also the places that have the scale necessary to sustain native populations of diverse flora and fauna.
These are the places where you can break away from the screen of your television, computer, or cell phone and experience the great outdoors with all of your senses. Some of my own most fulfilling moments have come from exploring National Forests like Colorado’s Uncompahgre or one of my recent favorites, the Cleveland in Southern California. I consider these public lands part of the inheritance current generations must pass on for the future—and our National Forest experiences with family create memories we value like heirlooms. I cherish the time when I can hike with my wife and children. The unique beauty of public lands is that they make family hikes so easily accessible. In fact, there are 155 National Forests and 20 National Grasslands that make up the National Forest System. They are found in 44 states across the nation and provide spectacular venues for unforgettable experiences with friends and family. Public lands also create jobs, which we know is critically important as we experience a softening of our nation’s economy. Our
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John S. Hendricks is Founder and Chairman of Discovery Communications. He is also the Chairman of the National Forest Foundation’s Board of Directors
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VOICES FROM THE FOREST
National Forests and Grasslands host 180 million documented visitors each year. These visits certainly help stimulate the economy—a fact clearly illustrated by data from the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA). In 2006, the OIA found that the availability of active outdoor recreation generated $289 billion in retail sales and services across the United States, with a total of 6.5 million jobs supported by the recreation economy overall. Aside from the significant economic benefit of jobs, our National Forests provide a renewable source of wood fiber and harbor the headwaters of the nation, supplying fresh water to 123 million people in 3,400 communities. They sustain habitat for one-third of all federally listed threatened or endangered species. And, they provide 4,300 campgrounds that serve as home base for families seeking the simple pleasures that come from nights spent under the stars, sharing campfire stories and exploring their expanded backyard. The notion of an expanded backyard is even more relevant if we look at the demographics of America, with over 80 percent of our population living in urban areas. Today’s U.S. population is developing a different kind of relationship with nature—a distant relationship. At Discovery Communications, we have always felt a responsibility to expose people to new ideas and places—to invigorate their innate curiosity. We aim to enrich
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spotlighting 14 national treasures that are both inspirational places and landscapes that need our help. They represent the spectrum of natural beauty and values that is our National Forest System, ranging from Alaska’s mossy rain forests to Florida’s stately longleaf pine stands. In the NFF’s campaign sites and elsewhere across the nation, the organization works to reforest after wildfire, reintroduce native species, remove invasive species, and improve access for public enjoyment while minimizing the impacts of human use. One of the most unique Treasured Landscapes is the Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie just south of Chicago. Less than one percent of the Prairie State remains as native prairie. And nowhere can the modern traveler enjoy the sweeping vistas that greeted early settlers to northern Illinois—vast grasslands dotted with bison, drained by meandering prairie creeks, and home to an impossible diversity of plants and animals. In October of 2011, I was impressed by the expansive beauty of the tallgrass prairie with its hardy flora.
Recreation opportunities on our National Forests provide great escapes and vital local economic benefits.
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Photo Courtesy USFS Cleveland National Forest; © Missing35mm / iStockphoto.com
A flowering yucca plant blooms on the Cleveland National Forest in California.
their lives with insights into wild places and the challenges that face the other living organisms with which we share this remarkable planet. A logical extension of my professional and personal passion for nature is my commitment to environmental causes. I have served on the Board of Governors of The Nature Conservancy, and I currently chair the Board of Directors of the National Forest Foundation (NFF). The NFF is a congressionally chartered nonprofit that focuses on raising awareness of the importance of our National Forests and caring for these precious wild places. We involve the public in supporting conservation and volunteering to take care of the places they love. What better way to connect to the places that surround and sustain us than to play an active role in their future! Helping to grow those connections while restoring our favorite places, the National Forest Foundation launched its Treasured Landscapes conservation campaign. Here in 2012, this campaign is
VOICES FROM THE FOREST Photo Courtesy of Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
But I was even more impressed by the commitment of partners to work together on a restoration of remarkable scale— undoing decades of industrial development and damage across 19,000 acres. To reconnect the people of Illinois with this rich natural heritage, nothing could be more important than restoring the prairie at a scale that does justice to the magnificent tallgrass ecosystem. And less an hour from Chicago, on 30 square miles set aside from the old U.S. Army Arsenal in Joliet, the opportunity now exists to do precisely that. Midewin is a beautiful picture that has already been drawn, but is just now in the process of being painted by the Forest Service, the National Forest Foundation, and the public through reclamation and restoration. With so little prairie left, it comes as no surprise that so many people have lost touch with this archetypal Midwestern landscape. In the public mind, tallgrass prairie has become an abstraction, an artifact evoking the distant past. Yet, at Midewin we have a collection of community-based
Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie in Illinois is a Treasured Landscapes campaign site.
organizations that recognize the historical and natural significance of this remnant tallgrass prairie. That is the essence of what the NFF stands for, restoring natural brilliance to impacted landscapes by engaging the public in protecting America’s backyard, at the same time improving the ecological condition of the places that provide so many benefits to the public. It was over 100 years ago that many of our National Forests and Grasslands were set aside by a visionary leader, Teddy Roosevelt. At the turn of the 20th century, he said:
Bringing my own experiences—both personal and professional—to the table, I am committed to the change that this Treasured Landscapes campaign will hopefully inspire. I want Americans to find the solace in a quiet hike, to think deeply about where their water comes from, and to pass on a zeal for outdoor recreation to their kids. Over time as the world changes, our public lands become increasingly valuable— truly treasures that add to the incalculable wealth of our nation. But this campaign is about much more than revitalizing the
“The idea that our natural resources were inexhaustible still obtained, and there was as yet no real knowledge of their extent and condition. The relation of the conservation of natural resources to the problems of National welfare and National efficiency had not yet dawned on the public mind.” – Theodore Roosevelt
One hundred years later, in some ways these public resources are still taken for granted—and even worse, unknown to many citizens. Yet they represent the natural heritage of our nation. These amazing places do captivate and inspire millions of Americans who visit them, but they belong to each and every one of us. That leaves millions more unaware about the legacy that’s theirs to cherish—and theirs to lose.
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land itself. It’s about inspiring a connection to nature. It’s about raising awareness of the special public lands heritage we all share. It’s about understanding that America shares a backyard full of wonders. We can all enjoy, benefit from, and help care for National Forests and Grasslands on behalf of ourselves and future generations—and this is the ultimate family heirloom.
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Deschutes National Forest, OR Community Rallies to Tell the
“Tale of Two Rivers” Stark contrasts define the Deschutes National Forest in Central Oregon. Black lava fields are met by the shimmer of white snow fields, and glaciers rest atop volcanoes—joining the forces of fire and ice. A journey from east to west takes you from high desert to verdant forests. Oldgrowth gnarled juniper forests of the arid eastern reaches transform to upright, slender lodgepole pines and ponderosas with their russet, puzzle-piece bark. The western boundary of the Deschutes National Forest is home to lush Douglas fir forests thick with green undergrowth. The Cascade Mountain Range stands guard over these landscapes, and omnipresent mountain views are reflected in clear alpine lakes that adorn the forests like jewels. Wild streams gain momentum on their trip downhill, forming rushing rivers that support diverse populations of fish and wildlife. Two of these rivers in the Upper Deschutes River Basin, the Whychus and Metolius, are the focus of the National Forest Foundation’s (NFF) Treasured Landscapes conservation campaign, known locally as the “Tale of Two Rivers.” The Metolius River and Whychus Creek frame
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By Karly Hedrick the small town of Sisters, Ore., my current home in the shadow of the Three Sisters Mountains. On a recent trip to a local elementary one of my colleagues posed a question to the class. “What are the rivers that run through Sisters Country?” She was astounded when the kids hesitated, racking their brains for the answer. A few students tentatively raised their hands, unsure of themselves, and named prominent Oregon rivers like the McKenzie and Deschutes. They couldn’t name the waters in their own backyards. I’d like to say that as a child I was different. Growing up in nearby Bend, I wouldn’t have been interested in the Metolius River unless the MTV reality TV show “The Real World” came to film there or I could ferret out a pair of trendy jeans on the riverbank. I was just as guilty as the other sullen teenagers of my generation of spending copious amounts of time indoors and walking away from our National Forests. For me, the cause of this gap came down to an underlying and ancient truth for teenagers: parents are not cool. By logical extension, the interests of my parents
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were similarly underwhelming. When my mom invited me on a hike, she was met by a resounding, “No, thank you!” My dad couldn’t understand why I didn’t want to go scouting for the upcoming deer hunting season. The answer seemed simple to me—I would rather spend time with friends downtown than trudge around in the mud in an unflattering and boxy camouflage outfit. This unbecoming and difficult phase ended abruptly when I discovered the second ubiquitous truth one learns in growing up: parents are almost always right. For me that realization was a vivid moment—I was releasing steelhead fry into one of our Central Oregon creeks with local nonprofit organizations, the Deschutes Land Trust and Upper Deschutes Watershed Coalition—now important local partners of the NFF. For the first time I connected with the forests in a new way. I saw the story of the tiny fish was a mirror to my own story—the hope of swimming out to bigger waters and adventuring back stronger and wiser. I left Central Oregon after high school for the University of Puget Sound and came back in 2009 as a slightly bigger fish (due, in part, to gaining the unavoidable “freshman 15”) but also a much smarter one. I also felt as if I had invested in something
Sockeye salmon are gaining access to historic habitats thanks to new fish passage structures.
Photos © Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs; U.S. Forest Service
Whychus Creek flows back to life in Central Oregon.
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photo © NFF
bigger than myself—joined a movement to revive what has come to be the icon of the Northwest—the salmon and steelhead. I wanted the little steelhead fry I had planted to come back and I was proud to be part of rewriting our local history. My awakening to the beauty and spiritual benefits of our National Forests was an echo of the larger community’s trajectory toward sustainability. In Sisters, community members and leaders focused efforts on Whychus Creek and the Metolius River repairing habitat for wildlife and preparing it for the return of the lost anadromous fish in hopes the small fish they had planted would fight their way upstream. For Whychus Creek, an important part of the restoration process was rediscovery. For thousands of years Native Americans had traced the course of Whychus Creek to the high country, the waters of the creek providing over half the steelhead spawning habitat in the Upper Deschutes River Basin. As homesteaders came to the Sisters area, the river lost its historic name and was called “Squaw Creek” to reflect this abundance of Native Americans. After losing its name, Whychus Creek lost its water to irrigation withdrawals and eventually lost its fish with the construction of hydroelectric dams downstream. It was relegated to a trickle of a creek in the summer and the pristine upper reaches of Whychus Creek were forgotten. On the other hand, the Metolius River,
like a favored daughter outshining a wilting sister, has drawn most of the attention of locals and visitors alike. The Metolius is a paradise for fly fishers and nature-lovers; thousands of sight-seers come to watch the crystal-clear water bubble up from underground at its headwaters. Due to this heavy recreational use, the well-loved Metolius River is in increasing need of care. As hikers, campers, and anglers trek to the waters of the Metolius River, they create new access points and user trails that attract more traffic. The banks of the river suffer from erosion, causing sediment that covers the important gravel beds that serve as important spawning habitat for fish. Because the water is spring-fed and remains at a somewhat gentle and steady flow year round, the Metolius River is extremely susceptible to this issue of sediment. Local organizations and passionate advocates had already set the restoration in motion when the NFF selected the Metolius River and Whychus Creek as a Treasured Landscapes campaign site in 2008. The Deschutes River Conservancy and Oregon Water Trust had purchased water rights back from private owners and they kept that water in the creek— dramatically improving its water levels and beginning to enhance habitat for fish and wildlife. The creek began to retain water even at the height of summer, a faint trickle turning to a steady gurgle coming from Creekside Park in Sisters, where vacationers can see the creek run right through town. The reinvigorated creek replaced the dry, barren riverbed of the past. The U.S. Forest Service Sisters Ranger District and others helped Whychus Creek get its historic name back. “Whychus” is a Native American word that means “where we cross the water,” and hearkens back to the time when local tribes would traverse the stream as they traded supplies, hunted game, and gathered food. When the National Forest Foundation joined forces with local collaborative organizations that were actively restoring Whychus Creek and the Metolius River, it joined a strong community of supporters in Sisters. The town of Sisters is embedded in the Deschutes National Forest. The breathtaking mountain vistas and abundance of recreation benefit not only
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Volunteers repaired stream banks and trails during National Public Lands Day in 2011.
the local population, but the thousands of vacationers who come to bike, hike, camp, hunt, fish, and ski each year. The businessminded Sisters resident knows that our recreational assets add fuel to our local economy, creating a fertile environment for gourmet restaurants, art galleries, charming stores, and world-class events like our popular Sisters Rodeo, Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show, and Sisters Folk Festival. To live in Sisters is to be connected to nature. Our landscapes and favorite places in the Deschutes National Forest propel our businesses, inspire our artists, and fill our weekends with outdoor activities. This explains why the NFF and U.S. Forest Service have been so successful in engaging non-traditional partners to support the watershed and upland habitat restoration efforts in Central Oregon. From cyclists at NFF’s second annual Ride for Two Rivers, to the beer-lovers that enjoyed the “Water of Life Ale” at the local microbrewery, Three Creeks Brewing Co., diverse crowds have turned out to provide enthusiastic support for the “Tale of Two Rivers.” Artists from around the state and beyond have enjoyed our 3rd annual Plein Air “Paint Out,” a timed painting competition at selected sites essential to the restoration of Whychus and Metolius watersheds. Artistic work resulting from the Paint Out have been displayed in art shows that help provide a platform for educational outreach about the NFF’s restoration projects; photos of winning pieces have been used in environmental reports, presentations, and outreach pieces.
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The art is truly worth a thousand words, helping to communicate the beauty and value of our local landscapes. New in 2012, quilters will throw a stitch in to the “Tale of Two Rivers” efforts, quilting a collaborative exhibit that highlights the dynamic Whychus Creek. Quilts will hang at the Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show—the largest outdoor quilt show in the world that draws over 10,000 visitors each year—and half the proceeds from the sale of each quilt will directly support on-the-ground efforts to restore the Whychus and Metolius Rivers. These on-the-ground restoration efforts since the site was chosen as a Treasured Landscape have been significant. Thus far we have worked to address local restoration priorities, including the naturalization of 2 miles of trails that trample sensitive riparian zones and cause harmful erosion, the creation or improvement of 11 miles of trails that help visitors enjoy the watersheds in a healthier manner, the eradication
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of invasive weeds on about 20 acres, the restoration of 8 acres of riparian areas within the watersheds, and the planting of 950 trees and shrubs along the banks of the Whychus and Metolius. The NFF and partners have helped to engage over 400 volunteers in achieving these conservation projects at our Friends of the Forest® volunteer work days near Sisters. These volunteers have donated over 1,700 hours, contributing an estimated $31,900 worth of their time. More than this, the volunteers have learned more about the complex contemporary challenges our National Forests face, and personally invested in the health of our public lands as stewards. In working as the Sisters Volunteer Bank Coordinator for the National Forest Foundation, helping to sustain these collaborations and organize volunteers for events and conservation projects, the most rewarding moment came when I organized a Friends of the Forest Day volunteer event
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with the local Sisters High School. A biology class came out on Earth Day 2011 to plant trees on the banks of Whychus Creek. One young girl, apprehensively kicking the dirt, whispered to her friend, “What’s the big deal about these fish?” As she got her hands dirty with her friends and chatted with local scientists, it was clear she began to see the big picture—began to join the community dreaming of the days its vibrant fish return from the sea. As she searched the streambed for redds and signs of fish, I saw in her the very transformational spark that ignited my love affair with the outdoors. The first salmon just returned to the Pelton Fish Trap on its way to our Central Oregon rivers, and the community is buzzing with excitement. The smolt’s return is a poignant reassurance that the next chapters in the “Tale of Two Rivers” will be stories of revival. In the dynamic region of Central Oregon—a land of fire and ice—we hope to make the starkest contrast of all: the disparity between the current condition of our rivers and their future restored and healthy state, with ecosystems restored and anadromous fish returning home to spawn. I’m happy to be part of that legacy.
Volunteers of all ages are restoring the Deschutes National Forest.
Photos © NFF
Artists capture Deschutes forest beauty during the annual Plein Air “Paint Out.”
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photos Courtesy of Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
The Midwest is, overall, a flat place. Mountain peaks do not reach into the heavens and rivers have not carved majestic valleys through the earth. In the flatness however, a beauty unlike anything else can be found. The restoration efforts at Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie in northeastern Illinois aim to bring that beauty back with every non-native plant pulled and with each workday volunteered.
the miDwesterN way
I was born and raised in the “thumb” of lower Michigan. Looking out across the landscape, the most significant features were the grain silos towering on the horizon. In the summer, I watched storms roar across the open fields and in the winter I witnessed the world transform into a muffled white wonderland. Due to strong agricultural ties throughout the Midwest, people, including my family, not only work with the land, they appreciate and respect the land. The soil, dirt and its potential are as constant a topic as the weather. But what was it before? Before my ancestors removed trees and planted acres upon acres of crops, what did the land look like? Iconic landscapes around the country linger for future generations: the sharp peaks of western mountains, powerful rivers snaking through the land, and canyons that are grand in every sense. But for more than 65 million residents of the Midwest, the original landscape, short and tallgrass prairie, has almost been
miDewiN NatioNal tallgrass Prairie, il
Nearly goNe But Not ForgotteN By Hannah Ettema
completely eradicated. Tallgrass prairies are as much a myth as Paul Bunyan or Johnny Appleseed. The hardy people of the Midwest withstand erratic weather and brutal winters that never have a solid stop date. But in the dark months and tough times, neighbors and communities bind together. The sense of community runs just as deep through Midwesterners as the connection with the land. Community is the pulse of the people. Consider historic barn raisings: a farm needed a barn and every nearby farmer and family lent a hand for the day. Today, the strength of community still stands; people come together for things bigger than themselves. Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie is one of those things. “[Midewin] probably would not have happened without people coming
together,” says Jerry Heinrich, president of the Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie Alliance and a dedicated prairie volunteer. One of the few remaining tracts of tallgrass prairie—not only in Illinois, but in the Midwest—Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie offers residents and visitors the opportunity to appreciate what they have and cherish what once was. As a Treasured Landscapes site, Midewin is a priority restoration project for the National Forest Foundation. The NFF’s restoration strategies include removing invasive species, planting native species, and restoring streams and wetlands. Community engagement, education and volunteerism are incorporated as crucial elements of the restoration plan and are key to the success of Midewin’s renewed life as a tallgrass prairie.
“… a world of grass and flowers [that] stretched around me, rising and falling in gentle undulations, as if an enchanter had struck the ocean swell and it was at rest forever.” Eliza Steele, 1841
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From Farms to Arms to Prairie
Prairies originally stretched across most of the land acquired in the Louisiana Purchase of 1803 and most of Illinois. Explorers could travel days in tall grasses before seeing landscape of any other kind. As exploration pushed further west, the first settlers came to the Midwest from the Ohio Valley. When the construction of the Erie Canal finished in 1825, the Upper Midwest opened for easier access and settlement. Some writers, romanticizing the frontier, described the covered wagons that traveled through the seas of tallgrass prairies as prairie schooners, alluding to their similarities to ships sailing at sea. New settlers quickly needed a means to feed themselves and later, the growing nation. Hailing from forested states, farmers reveled in Illinois’ acres of treeless prairie. To cultivate the land, the first settlers used wooden plows, originally suited to the loose soils of the eastern forests. In the dense soil of the Midwest however, the plows weren’t able to cut through the ground. In 1837 an Illinois blacksmith by the name of John Deere developed a steel moldboard plow that was strong enough to cut through the soil and plant roots. In the wake of his invention, after a few generations the Midwest became one of the highest producing agricultural areas in the country, nearly wiping out native tallgrass prairies in the process. While the Midwest’s population
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boomed and prairies turned to croplands, the nearly 20,000 acres of land known today as Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie housed the Joliet Arsenal. The vast complex of factories, buildings, roads, railroads and other facilities was used by the U.S. Army from 1940 until 1996. Although military infrastructure occupied most of the land, large swaths of the Joliet Arsenal became accidental open space, providing a rare open view amidst ever-growing Chicago suburbs. After heavy use throughout the mid-20th century, the U.S. Army released the land in the early 1990s, triggering an onslaught of questions from the public. “Everyone had an idea of what to do with the space. There were an unbelievable number of ideas about the land,” explains Heinrich, who lives just 2 miles from the property and had come to enjoy seeing the nearby open space. “I would have hated to see it turn into industry.” Heinrich, along with representatives of more than 20 different organizations, had the opportunity to serve on a commission created by Former U.S. Rep. George Sangmeister. As Heinrich says, they represented “groups that typically didn’t come together,” but they expressed a shared passion for open space. Marianne Hahn, past president of the Midewin Tallgrass Prairie Alliance and editor of the “Prairie Telegraph” newsletter says, “We wanted as broad of a representation as we could get.” As the
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commission lobbied for support they were fortunate to not only receive public backing, but they saw very little negative opposition, which is “rare and unusual that [the project] was not opposed by any significant group,” explains Heinrich. The commission first lobbied to transfer management of the Joliet Arsenal from the Army to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS). After consideration however, the USFWS decided the land would not be a good fit for their priorities. Despite this apparent setback to conserving the prairie, the commission and local communities launched a grassroots campaign to advocate for Midewin’s protection. As a result of their efforts, in 1996 the land officially transferred from the U.S. Army to the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service, establishing Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie. Despite being well-worn from past uses, Midewin represents a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to reassemble the full array of wildlife and wildflowers once typical of tallgrass prairies. As the prairie continues to regrow, the NFF, local communities and partner organizations work with the Forest Service to remove Army infrastructure, eradicate invasive species, plant native seeds and restore the meandering streams and wetlands that once graced the prairie. Throughout the entire process, collaboration has remained constant. “One of the key words is partnerships,” says Hahn. From community groups to foundations and corporations, Midewin inspires the support necessary to bring back what was once lost. “It’s a missing link that needs to be closed. That is what drives us and other volunteers,” says Heinrich.
Deep Roots and Rare Birds
Just as Midwesterners may seem quiet and unassuming, the towering grasses that give tallgrass prairies their name comprise more than meets the eye. Dwarfing even the tallest visitor, the grasses grow to a height of 4-6 feet, occasionally rising 8 or 9 feet into the air. As impressive as the stems may ascend, it’s the roots that deserve the
Photo Courtesy of Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
Volunteers have played a big part in replanting the prairie.
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photos © Gary Sullivan; Courtesy of Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
credit. Extensive root systems, often longer than the stems aboveground, provide the strength to last through the winter and return in the spring. As the old roots of the grasses die, they decompose into the soil, supplying rich organic nutrients back to the grasses and other plants. Amidst the tall grasses of Midewin, nearly 50 different species of wildflowers bloom from May to October, splashing the landscape with color. Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie is also home to numerous bird species. In 1982 biologists from the Illinois Department of Natural Resources attended a meeting at the then Joliet Arsenal and noticed several upland sandpipers sitting on utility poles. Listed as an endangered species in Illinois, the upland sandpiper winters in South America but breeds in open grasslands and fields throughout central North America. Realizing the incredible occurrence, biologists began limited surveys of the upland sandpipers at the Arsenal in 1983, showing numbers that suggested the Midewin sandpipers were the largest population in the state. After expanded surveys in 1985, it was clear to biologists that the Joliet Arsenal was one of the best habitats in Illinois—and perhaps the Midwest—for this endangered bird. As the land at Midewin has changed hands, the avian studies have continued for more than 20 years, chronicling the bird populations throughout the prairie. Under Army ownership, the grasslands were Midewin’s wetlands support diverse bird species, like this heron.
managed for grazing, which was suitable habitat for upland sandpipers, grasshopper sparrows and loggerhead shrikes. However, Henslow’s sparrows and sedge wrens were rare due to the lack of tall grasses. As restoration efforts continue today, the Forest Service hopes to improve habitat for upland sandpipers and other grassland birds preferring short grasses, as well as birds preferring tall grasses. Bobolinks, Henslow’s and grasshopper sparrow populations are all increasing thanks to the resurgence of native grasses over the last 15 years.
A Treasure for All
Have you ever stood in a field of grasses towering over your head? Have you felt small in a wide open sea of grass? Soon the majestic prairie will once again provide a sense of awe for residents and visitors alike. Less than an hour away from Chicago, Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie is an ideal location for urban education and interpretation programs. Midewin offers educators the chance to take their
lessons beyond the walls of a classroom and immerse their students in the “Prairie State” of Illinois. Midewin is “a place where you can see native Illinois just about as far as you can see,” says Hahn. Modern-day travelers driving across the country now have the opportunity to explore the landscape our forefathers passed through. At the crossroads of the country, Midewin gives visitors from the Midwest and the nation a chance to explore the prairie on foot, bike and horse. Visitors can also stop at the Midewin Welcome Center and learn about the rich cultural and natural history of Midewin. The Midwest feeds the nation, can’t it also amaze us? Prairies have long been the forgotten places of our people. But it is on the prairies—the wide open spaces of long ago—that we can take a moment and see the big picture. A single person may plant a plot of grasses, but only when the community unites, can the prairie become what it once was and should be for generations to come.
Prairies in a National Forest System? Names can be deceiving. Why would the Forest Service protect a prairie?
In addition to caring for more than 150 National Forests, the U.S. Forest Service also manages 20 National Grasslands. In 1960, the Secretary of Agriculture incorporated the first National Grassland into the National Forest System. Federal ownership of these lands dates back to the 1930s when the government purchased lands as a part of a program of land utilization and land use adjustment. The program began as an emergency measure under various authorities and continued under the Bankhead-Jones Farm Tenant Act of 1937. The act was an emergency measure to help tenant farmers purchase land. The care, expertise and dedication the Forest Service brings to public forest lands also apply to National Grasslands. Sprinkled between the Rocky Mountains and the Mississippi River, National Grasslands are rich in natural resources and recreation opportunities. While grassland ecosystems might not be the most glamorous to protect, they are as deserving as the oldest trees and highest peaks.
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Angeles National Forest, CA Volunteers vital to a forest By Nerissa Sintetos visited by millions On any given day, several thousand people could be enjoying all the recreational opportunities the Angeles National Forest has to offer. From camping to fishing to mountain biking, the forest- and chaparralcovered slopes, shady canyons, and high peaks offer a refreshing alternative to the theme parks and malls of the LA basin. One of the many thousands who enjoy the Angeles National Forest on a regular basis is Dick Sailors, a retired Pasadena middle school math and science teacher of 30 years. Sailors is most likely to be found 14
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on his favorite stretch of trail that traverses a ridge from Dawson’s Saddle to Throop Peak. The rocky outcrops and pine trees shaped by the wind and weather enhance the meditative beauty of the place. “Being out in nature, I am not so encumbered by immediate worries. It’s liberating,” says Sailors. After leaving the Pacific Northwest, Dick Sailors began walking the hills of the Angeles in 1970 while recovering from a motorcycle accident. He soon found himself scampering all over the forest with
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the help of John W. Robinson’s “Trails of the Angeles: 100 hikes in the San Gabriels.” As someone who had grown up camping with his family and hunting and fishing with his father, Sailors found solace in the mountains rising above Los Angeles. However, the millions of annual visitors were taking a toll on the nation’s most urban forest, and as Sailors’ appreciation for the rugged landscape of the Angeles grew, so did his desire to help care for it. Sailors began his informal volunteer work by carrying around an extra 30 gallon trash bag whenever he went hiking or camping in the Angeles. By the end of the day, the trash bag would usually be full. “One day I picked up a small lawn mower motor,” he says with a chuckle. Sometimes he would even carry a shovel while hiking to clear debris that had fallen across the trail. In the 1990s, Sailors volunteered with a local hiking and trail maintenance group, JPL Trailbuilders, led by employees of Pasadena’s NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory. Picking up trash and maintaining trails was Sailors’ way of giving a little something back to a place where he had spent so many enjoyable hours. Recently, a Spanish broom removal project led by Katie VinZant, a botanist on the Angeles National Forest, has captured his interest. For the past two years—spring, summer, and fall—Sailors has spent his Sundays up on the Angeles National Forest’s Santa Clara Divide Road, removing Spanish broom. Spanish broom (Spartium junceum) is an invasive, non-native weed that has thrived in the burned and disturbed soils after the 2009 Station Fire. A dense perennial shrub that can grow to heights of 10 to 15 feet, Spanish broom can quickly colonize an area and deprive native plants of water, nutrients, and light. Unfortunately for the Angeles National Forest, Spanish broom is also extremely difficult to eradicate once it has become established. With a 5- to 6-foot long taproot sometimes wider than an average person’s thigh, a single Spanish broom plant can take an hour and a half to extricate from the soil. “There’s a lot of digging with picks and shovels,” Sailors
Photo © Nerissa Sintetos, NFF
Lower Switzer Falls is a hidden oasis in the Angeles National Forest.
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photo © Nerissa Sintetos, NFF
says of the work. “You have to dig 2 to 3 feet around the plant and trim all the side roots until you get to the taproot. We use a big lever to pull the taproot out and it takes two, maybe three people working this lever to finally pull the root out.” How does he stay motivated to return to the dust, heat, and strenuous digging weekend after weekend? Sailors mulls the question over thoughtfully. Part of his motivation is seeing the native plants around the Spanish broom, like yucca and chamise, and knowing that they will be able to thrive once the Spanish broom is removed. However, probably the most rewarding aspect of volunteering on the project is working alongside other volunteers, ranging from teenagers to retirees. “Everyone contributes something,” says Sailors, “even the people who come out for one weekend and don’t come back. By volunteering, they turn their enthusiasm to get outside and do something useful into something real.” Volunteers are essential to the Spanish broom removal effort. Not only do they allow the Forest Service to tackle essential work that might not get done without their help, but, says Andrea Nick, an Angeles National Forest air quality and GIS technician, “Volunteers encourage us and we encourage them in a reinforcing cycle of enthusiasm.” Of Sailors, Nick says, “He’s got an upbeat personality, interesting stories to tell, and he’s an incredibly hard worker.” Katie VinZant, the Angeles National Forest botanist in charge of the project, considers Sailors one of her “super volunteers.” “He’s just great,” says VinZant. “He’s out there every Sunday with a great attitude. He even helps clean and sharpen our tools when we’re not in the field.” Because of the long hours, sweat, and gritty effort that Sailors, his fellow volunteers, and Forest Service employees contribute to the project, they can look down a stretch of the Santa Clara Divide Road at the end of the day and see visible progress towards their goal.
On a recent trip to Los Angeles, a childhood friend, her dog, and I met up for an afternoon hike in the Angeles National Forest. At the recommendation of a ranger, we drove down to the Switzer Picnic Area to pick up a trail that led into Arroyo Seco Canyon. We were slightly taken aback at how full the parking lot was, but the reason soon became apparent. When we reached the picnic area and trailhead, it was like we had entered a hidden oasis. Tall trees shaded a gurgling creek and a cool breeze rustled leaves. Every picnic table was stacked high with sandwiches, chips, and other lunch fixings and surrounded by groups of families and friends. As we wandered down the trail, we passed people of all ages hiking in groups and on their own. Small dogs yapped at us from their owners’ arms and bigger dogs splashed in the creek. As we hiked deeper into the canyon, the crowds thinned and the quiet of the canyon made us feel like we had it all to ourselves. We reached Lower Switzer Falls and stopped to enjoy the falls before heading back. Water splashed down a rock face worn smooth and tiny toadlets hopped around the pool at the waterfall’s base. “What an amazing place,” my friend said. I agreed. My thoughts wandered back to all the people we had seen along the trail and I began to fully appreciate how important this canyon—and the entire Angeles National Forest—is for Los Angeles’ urban residents who just want to get outside and leave the city behind for a few hours. I could only imagine how much would be accomplished if all of these people came out and volunteered on the forest for one day. And without a doubt, several canyons
in the Angeles National Forest do need the help of dedicated volunteers like Dick Sailors. In 2012, the National Forest Foundation will be working to remove invasive weeds from the riparian areas of Big Tujunga Canyon as part of the Treasured Landscapes, Unforgettable Experiences campaign in partnership with the Angeles National Forest and Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Gardens. A key component to the NFF’s season-long weed removal effort will be three community Friends of the Forest Days volunteer events, as well as weekly volunteer days for diehard invasive weed warriors. The NFF staff and partners hope that the Los Angeles community will be inspired to participate, even for just one day. By naming this section of the Angeles National Forest a Treasured Landscapes restoration site, the NFF’s goals are twofold. We aim to accomplish largescale restoration of areas damaged by the Station Fire, combat invasive species and revitalize critical watersheds. But more than any other site, the Angeles also presents a critical opportunity to connect a big urban population with nature. Time and time again, Americans discover the important role that wild places can play in their lives. In our National Forests and Grasslands we forge connections with family, friends, and even strangers. We learn new skills and learn about ourselves. If we all took a few hours or a few days to volunteer for a project that we are passionate about— like repairing trails, picking up trash, or removing Spanish broom—and give something back to these special places, our public lands will be healthier and so will we.
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While hiking in the Angeles National Forest, the author spotted many tiny toadlets.
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The breadth and diversity of our National Forest System is as grand as our country. By working to restore 14 iconic sites, the National Forest Foundation is dedicated to perpetuating the natural heritage that unites and defines America.
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1. Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, WA
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2. Idaho Panhandle National Forests, ID
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3. Deschutes National Forest, OR 4. Tahoe National Forest, CA
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5. Angeles National Forest, CA 6. Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest, UT
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7. Coconino National Forest, AZ
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8. White River National Forest, CO 9. Pike National Forest, CO 10. Ozark National Forest, AR
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12. White Mountain National Forest, NH 13. Ocala National Forest, FL 14. Tongass National Forest, AK
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TREASURED LANDSCAPES “The vast possibilities of our great future will become realities only if we make ourselves responsible for that future.” – Gifford Pinchot, First Chief of the U.S. Forest Service
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National Forests National Forests selected to be part of National Forest Foundation’s Treasured Landscapes Campaign
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OZARK National Forest, AR
WaterfallS and bugling bulls among arkansas’ secret wonders By Jennifer Schoonen
If you’ve never been to Arkansas, your ideas about the state may be limited to knowing it’s the motherland of Walmart, the birthplace of William Jefferson Clinton, and the butt of any number of jokes about backwoods people. Upon arrival into the northwest corner of the state, first impressions may not improve the state’s image all that much. Summer heat and humidity can melt the skin off your back. A wicked plethora of biting and stinging creatures lurks everywhere— from chiggers to copperheads. Twisting mountain roads conjure thoughts of being swallowed up by the Ozarks forever. During my own first hike in the region, my husband and I spent most of the trek plucking dozens of ticks off of our clothes. It’s hard to enjoy the scenery when you’re worried about the little blood-suckers latching on at every step. But the “Natural State” deserves much more than a first impression review. In fact, the wild northwestern quadrant is a magical place, carved out beautifully by the forces of nature and nurturing a great love of the land among its people. Once you learn how to handle the ticks 18
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and keep an eye out for snakes, hiking the Ozarks of Arkansas can be like a childhood Christmas morning. Each bend in the trail reveals a new, often unexpected gift for the senses. Plunging waterfalls drop into round pools that fill deep holes scooped out of the rock. Countless caves harbor mystical limestone formations. Surprise viewpoints open out on rock ledges revealing expanses of undulating forested landscape. Crumbling homestead remnants huddle in tucked-away corners. Wild turkeys, armadillos, and colorful songbirds weave among the foliage, offering just a glimpse of themselves. Come September, the lucky ears may hear the melodies of elk bugling— from the state’s growing herd, reintroduced in the early 1980s. This abundant natural spectacle evolved from an ancient mountain landscape. The Ozarks’ underlying siltstone, shale and sandstone rock formations were deposited on the bottom of prehistoric oceans, later uplifted and eroded. Carved over time by fast-flowing rivers and seeping water, today steep cliffs, natural bridges and rock promontories punctuate the mountains. Early explorers and settlers discovered a
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region of wild and rich resources. Though long inhabited by Native American tribes—some referred to as “bluff-dwellers” for their shelters perched high within rocky cliffs—the Ozarks remained largely unchanged until the 1800s. Following the Louisiana Purchase, homesteaders moved to the region in earnest, drawn by the tremendous water, forest and wildlife resources. It took less than a century for unsustainable use to result in vast ecological changes for the Ozarks. The timber had seemed inexhaustible. But by the end of the 1800s, human activity had stripped bare the mountainsides and river corridors. Erosion, flooding, and declining game species followed. Rapid deforestation of the Ozarks spurred President Theodore Roosevelt to create the Ozark National Forest in 1907. Its formation marked the first Forest Reserve in the American South and the first to protect a hardwood forest. Creation of the National Forest was step one on a road to landscape recovery that continues today through habitat restoration and enhancement measures. The Ozark National Forest now encompasses 1.2 million acres of northwestern Arkansas and occupies a dominant place in the lives and economies of the region.
Driving around the Ozark National Forest with Dennis Daniel and Wayne Shewmake, a newcomer to Arkansas will definitely learn a few things. Like which ramshackle house supposedly harbors the best moonshine maker in the county. Or that Listerine sprayed on oneself is the most effective mosquito and chigger deterrent available. But for all their witty Southern storytelling, these two know a thing or two about taking care of the great outdoors. Daniels, a retired Forest Service employee, now works as a regional wildlife biologist for the National Wild Turkey Federation. His compatriot, Shewmake, is president of the Arkansas Wildlife Federation. The two share a great love for northwest Arkansas’ wild places. And both have played leading roles in the implementation of on-the-
Photo © Clint Spencer / iStockPhoto.com
Copperhead Falls is one of many stunning water features in the Ozarks.
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photo Courtesy of Arkansas Wildlife Federation
ground restoration as part of the National Forest Foundation’s Treasured Landscapes site in the Ozarks. The NFF’s Arkansas restoration site is framed around increasing habitat for wildlife such as deer, wild turkeys, elk and quail, as well as improving ponds and streams for fish and amphibians. Stewardship work to date has focused on a project area dubbed Bearcat Hollow. Over the last couple of years, the NFF’s Arkansas partner organizations have made significant progress on creating wildlife openings, clearing areas, seeding them, mowing and treating invasive plant species. Light prescribed fire has also helped to revitalize open woodlands with native grasses and forbs. The project results have been particularly helpful in accommodating a unique southern elk herd that has raised the ire of private landowners as they spread onto and graze private lands. “There is now a huntable population of elk up there,” Shewmake recently said in an interview. “Now we are trying to put food sources back up there on the mountain that will encourage the wildlife to come up there and stay as opposed to down in [the town of ] Ponca.” Future phases of this Treasured Landscapes project will switch some of the attention toward the need for recreation improvements in a region popular with hikers, hunters and anglers. Severe ice storms and flooding have recently wreaked havoc on trails, campgrounds and recreation access sites. Trail projects will offer a nice opportunity for volunteer engagement—which has already proven a popular strategy among the region’s avid outdoors enthusiasts.
The local love for this place is evident when Shewmake, Daniel and their organizations put out the call for volunteers. Much of the stewardship work taking place in the Bearcat Hollow area has been accomplished by volunteer hands. And it’s no easy job. Pulling old fence, brush hogging, hand-sowing native seed— all while combatting bugs, keeping half an eye out for snakes, and withstanding a variety of weather conditions, certainly test the mettle of volunteer stewards. But the rewards emanate from the camaraderie
among fellow volunteers and from seeing the results on behalf of Ozarks wildlife. After a successful National Public Lands Day volunteer event in September 2011, Shewmake blogged, “We were able to accomplish most of our goals and meet our objective to benefit wildlife. We had 50 volunteers who showed up to support the work being done on the Bearcat Hollow project. For the ones who camped out, I know they really enjoyed themselves. They learned how to cook good food in an open fire pit, how to make a good dessert called a banana boat, as well as cobbler, on the open fire pit. They learned how to boil water in a paper cup, and we all shared stories of the past. We did get to hear an elk bugle about midnight on Saturday while sitting by the campfire.” Repeatedly, energetic groups of Arkansas volunteers have returned to the Bearcat
Hollow project, taking great pride in the progress wrought by their own labor. And clearly they are a driven bunch. Earlier in the 2011, the NFF’s partners reached out to the local media, requesting volunteers for an Earth Day project. The announcement in the “Newton County Times” ended with:
“The ticks and bugs are out. You possibly may see a snake or two. You may also get the opportunity to see a bear or herd of elk, so bring your camera.”
With that sort of invitation, you know your volunteers are either a bit nuts or really dedicated. Having sampled the inspiring woodlands and waterways of northwest Arkansas, I can come to only one conclusion. To heck with the ticks.
Arkansas Tech University students prepare to install a gate for seasonal wildlife habitat protection during a volunteer work day.
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area of Florida scrub lies within the Ocala National Forest amidst subtropical forests and aquamarine springs.
Inspiration from a forgotten landscape
, FL OCALA NATIONAL FOREST BEYOND THE BEACHES AND INTO THE FORESTS By Hannah Ettema
“Enchantment lies in different things for each of us. For me, it is in this: to step out of the bright sunlight into the shade of orange trees; to walk under the arched canopy of their jadelike leaves; to see the long aisles of lichened trunks stretch ahead in a geometric rhythm; to feel the mystery of a seclusion that yet has shafts of light striking through it. This is the essence of an ancient and secret magic. – Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings from her book “Cross Creek” When most Americans think of Florida they picture sandy beaches, bright amusement parks and endless tourists. Before Walt Disney and migratory snowbirds from the wintry north, the landscape of “Old Florida” challenged those who lived there against unforgiving conditions of heat, humidity and sandy, unproductive soils. In 1938 author Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings introduced the country to Old Florida and the lives of those within the sparsely populated and densely wooded area known as the “big scrub” in her Pulitzer Prize-winning novel, “The Yearling.” Today, the largest remaining Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings with her dog in Cross Creek, Florida
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Soon after the print success of her novel, Rawlings sold the film rights to MGM and served as a location scout for the production. Rawlings drew inspiration from the landscape around her. She lived and wrote the novel just 50 miles north of the Ocala National Forest at her cottage in Cross Creek. As production moved forward for the film, she marked specific locations on a Forest Service map of where she had imagined the locations to be in the story, one of which was a clearing called Pat’s Island. In the late 19th century the Long family established a homestead on Pat’s Island, now in the heart of the Ocala National Forest near Silver Glen Springs. One of the sons, Melvin, found and adopted a fawn. This story served as Rawlings’ inspiration for “The Yearling” and the Long family morphed into the fictional Baxters of Baxter’s Island. The 1946 film starred Gregory Peck as Penny Baxter and Jane Wyman as Orry Baxter, both of whom received Academy Award nominations for their roles. MGM originally began filming in 1941 with Spencer Tracy in the lead, but due to complications the project was canceled when the United States entered World War II. When production resumed after the war, MGM was able to use the atmospheric and outdoor shots from the original 1941 production. Today visitors to the forest can explore Old Florida throughout the 383,000 acres of the Ocala National Forest. Fans of both the novel and the movie can’t miss “The Yearling Trail.” Across the road from Silver Glen Springs, a looped trail takes you to Pat’s Island as well as the Long family cemetery. The trail leads past remnants of old homesteads including an old cattle dip and a giant sinkhole where the settlers collected drinking water.
Photos Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida
Deer near Forrester Place farm (a preproduction and location photograph of MGM’s “The Yearling”)
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photos © USDA / Ocala National Forest / Sandra Friend; Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida
manY peoples, manY Uses
The first inhabitants reached Florida around 12,000 years ago. Thanks to the variety of environments, the area supported a diverse population of plants and animals, including the saber-toothed tiger, mastodon (giant-tusked elephantlike animal) and the giant armadillo. Among the earliest human inhabitants of the area were the Timucuan, a semiagricultural society of Native Americans. In addition to farming, they also hunted wild game and fish. While their exact settlement area is unknown, the Timucuan’s largest village was called “Ocali,” a precursor to today’s Ocala. By the mid-1700s, the population of Timucuans was wiped out largely due to lack of immunity from European diseases. Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León first arrived in Florida in 1513 and attempted to colonize the area in 1521. Spain held control of Florida until 1763 when they traded it to Britain who then traded it back to Spain in 1783. By 1821 Florida became a territory of the United States. As Americans populated the rich lands, conflicts arose between the Seminole Indians and settlers. In the wake of $20 million spent and many American soldier and Seminole lives lost, the U.S. government eventually forced the Native Americans out of Florida. During the last quarter of the 19th century, large-scale commercial agriculture, such as cattle ranching, grew. Cracker cattle descended from Spanish and British breeds adapted to survive in the Florida scrub on native forage while tolerating severe heat. During various wars and conflicts, cattle in Florida supplied beef to armies on both sides. After the Civil War, Florida became the leading cattle exporter in the nation, selling cattle to Cuba, Key West and Nassau.
cracKers of florIda Not all cowboys used lassos. In Old Florida, pioneers had to use different techniques to round up the wandering cattle. Because of the thick scrub underbrush, lassos were of no use. Instead, cowboys cracked their whips to move the cattle. The sound alone, similar to a gun shot, convinced the cattle to move forward. The cowboys of the Florida frontier became associated with the term cracker and the name stuck. Today, a Florida cracker is used to describe a native born Floridian amongst the many migrants the state has attracted in the last century. Sketch of whip cracker by Bill Simpson.
During his second term, Theodore Roosevelt helped established the National Forest Service and in 1908, he established the Ocala National Forest, as one of the first National Forests east of the Mississippi. Formal designation helped to protect Florida’s valuable forest and water resources that remained in the public domain but had not yet been claimed by homesteaders.
a dIfferent tYpe of forest
Forests in Florida? Looking beyond the beaches along the many miles of coastline around the state, Central Florida has been described as “nothing much to look at” and as one of the “state’s most unforgiving landscapes.” The first settlers, the crackers, lived in a landscape unlike any other. Dominated by shrubs instead of trees and grasses, the big scrub tested settlers in its dry, sandy ridges with extremely low soil quality. Any rain that fell quickly rushed through the sterile sand while temperatures climbed in the summer due to the lack of tree canopy. Today, the Ocala National Forest
harbors the largest contiguous sand pine scrub forest. Sand pine trees, small and shrub-like, typically grow to heights of 16 to 33 feet and flourish where larger trees would otherwise not withstand the harsh growing conditions. Though a white Christmas is rare in these woods, Floridians can still cut down their own native holiday trees. During the holiday season, the Forest Service offers permits for sand pines. Although the topography of the area centers on high, dry ridges, the Ocala National Forest is rich in water resources with more than 600 bodies of water, including some of the finest and clearest artisan springs in the United States. Paddlers come from far and wide to explore the Juniper Prairie Wilderness under a dense canopy of old-growth forest down Juniper Run, named one of the top 25 canoe trips in the nation. Oases of fertile soils and moisture support growth of longleaf pine, and other trees and plants not found in the surrounding scrub. The longleaf pine ecosystem once covered 90 million acres in the southern
Longleaf pine forest; Wet prairie—found through the big scrub; Young sand pine scrub along The Yearling Trail, Juniper Prairie Wilderness
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United States. By the early 20th century, 97 percent of this ecosystem had been lost due to timber harvest, development, agriculture and alteration of fire regimes. Despite its dwindling extent, longleaf pine remains a critical habitat; what is left supports 60 percent of the reptiles and amphibians in the Southeast. Standing tall with straight trunks reaching toward the sky and branches extending with bundles of long needles, longleaf pines were once used, among other things, as masts for the ships that sailed to the eastern seaboard. For the first three to seven years of growth, the longleaf pine hardly resembles a tree. Instead the sapling appears more like a tuft of grass with its cluster of fire-resistant needles. Historically, lightning-induced fires every one to five years maintained the longleaf forest against hardwoods and other plants competing for sun and resources. Today the Forest Service uses prescribed burns to mimic these historic conditions.
All of the Animal Kingdom
With the number of animals that stop through or live in the Ocala National Forest, visitors might think they have strayed into an animal reserve. Well-managed scrub provides an excellent stopover for migratory birds in addition to resident woodpeckers, raptors and songbirds. The unique combination of uplands and wetlands supports an array of amphibians and reptiles including the barking tree frog, eastern diamondback rattlesnake and broad-headed skinks. Gentle and slowmoving manatees also seek refuge in the springs throughout the forest. It would not be unusual to spot alligators, white-tailed deer, wild boar, squirrels, bats, coyotes, foxes, raccoons, bobcats or armadillos on the
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forest either. What most visitors encounter however, is the Florida black bear. A subspecies of the American black bear, the Florida black bear roams throughout the forest, mainly eating berries, acorns, fruits and occasionally small game. Recreation sites are equipped with bear-proof trash receptacles to discourage further contact between humans and bears. Scientists estimate that at one time 12,000 black bears lived throughout Florida. Today, it is believed that 1,500 live throughout the state, with the highest density in the Ocala National Forest.
Restoring Old Florida
The Ocala National Forest is one of the top 10 most visited National Forests in the nation. Thanks to its close proximity to Orlando, Tampa and Daytona, the Ocala draws 1.7 million visitors annually. To ensure that this treasured landscape continues to flourish amidst the high visitor demand, the National Forest Foundation has initiated a five-year restoration plan. Working closely with the Forest Service and other partners, the work will take place within two globally impaired ecosystems—the longleaf pine and sand scrub—and will facilitate the recovery of the federally endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, the Florida scrub jay and a host of other rare and endemic species. Native groundcover will be restored across the landscape through the removal of invasive species and the planting of native species. The NFF is also focused on protecting the extensive water outlets throughout the forest, which contribute to the Florida aquifer. Currently a network of old, poorly established roads produce erosion which pushes soil into the floodplain and the aquifer. These roads will be decommissioned and planted with
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native species to protect the aquifer and enhance ecosystem function. The recreation trails on the Ocala have many uses: hiking, OHV, horseback riding and biking. Many of the trails overlap with users and cross low-level road systems. As part of the restoration plan, the trail system will be restructured to support the needs of various users and limit conflicts. The crystal-clear waters of Silver Glen Springs remain a constant 72 degrees all year. Emptying into Lake George, Silver Glen Springs attracts many boaters, some of whom stay for extended periods of time. Manatees seek refuge in the springs during the winter months because of the warm water temperature. As a result, many boaters unintentionally harm these beloved creatures. The National Forest Foundation will help to facilitate the collaborative planning for potential solutions with nonprofit partners, state agencies and the public. After bringing together all stakeholders, the 0.6-milelong Silver Glen Springs will continue to be a popular boating destination, while minimizing negative impacts on the water quality and manatee habitat.
More than Theme Parks
As our nation continues to grow, there has never been a more important time to take care of our natural world for future generations. Rawlings’ American classic shared the stories and lifestyle of an often overlooked chapter of Florida’s history. Perpetuating the forests of Florida’s past honors both those who first loved this place and those who will someday be amazed by its natural splendor. And such wonder there is to find—not far from the state’s popular theme parks, amidst the stately pines and crystalline springs in Florida’s lesser-known natural attraction.
Photos © USDA / Ocala National Forest; Steve Byland, Steve Bower / Shutterstock.com
Family biking on the Paisley Woods Trail; Florida scrub jay; Barking tree frog; Lake Eaton OHV rider
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photos © Janine Conrardy; NFF
When Carol Ekarius first entered the perimeter of the Hayman Fire she began to cry. It was July 2, 2002, and Colorado’s largest fire, which had ignited almost a month earlier, was considered fully controlled. Ekarius, the hard-driving and resourceful executive director of Coalition for the Upper South Platte (CUSP), considered herself “fire-hardened” at the time. She had already seen the devastation left behind by other large wildfires along Colorado’s Front Range but the Hayman Fire was different. “The devastation was incomprehensible,” Ekarius says. “Everywhere I looked the landscape was charred, ash-laden dust devils reached hundreds of feet into the air, and the remains of burned buildings stood as somber reminders of life before the fire. We saw no wildlife that day. Not a bird. Not a deer. It was eerie.” The Hayman Fire had raged for nearly a month through the Pike National Forest as well as state, county, and private lands, burning a total of 137,760 acres. While fire plays a natural role in the health of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir forests, the absence of fire for 100 years leading up to 2002 created unnatural conditions. The unhealthy forest, combined with the weather, caused the Hayman Fire to burn far hotter than normal across many acres. On that fateful July day after most of the Hayman flames had gone out, Ekarius
Ten years after the Hayman Fire, sediment still clogs the streams.
Pike national forest, co
A landscape of devastation and hope By Kimberly Langmaid, Ph.D.
was getting a sneak preview of what was to come for her work and her small nonprofit organization in the years ahead. Based in Lake George, Colo., CUSP had already been tasked with helping coordinate volunteers and marshal donations to aid the U.S. Forest Service with their immediate response to the fire, but as the next 10 years would unfold, Ekarius and her team continued to help lead the charge The Hayman Fire led to severe flooding along Trail Creek in 2006.
of community restoration efforts. In 2002 Ekarius was joined by Jonathan Bruno, now CUSP’s operations director, who has headed up most of the volunteer planning and coordination since the fire. CUSP’s mission is to “protect the water quality and ecological health of the Upper South Platte Watershed, through the cooperative efforts of watershed stakeholders with emphasis placed on community values and economic sustainability.” In the wake of the devastating fire and under Ekarius’ and Bruno’s leadership, CUSP has evolved into one of Colorado’s most creative and collaborative community-based watershed organizations.
“The Stream Saver”
One area that continues to feel the most challenging impacts of the fire even after 10 years is West Creek in Douglas County. Ekarius says, “The community of several hundred residents has dealt with extraordinary post-fire flooding and continued sedimentation reducing storage in the reservoir that supplies their water.” The neighborhood, located at the confluence of Trail Creek and West Creek, is now the site of a major collaborative restoration effort. Prior to the Hayman Fire, the sediment
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load flowing out of Trail Creek was 1,200 tons annually. After the fire, 20,000 tons are flowing out, threatening the Upper South Platte watershed and the water supply for 75 percent of Colorado’s Front Range residents. With guidance and support from the National Forest Foundation and lead corporate donor Vail Resorts, CUSP and other members of the Treasured Landscapes Hayman Restoration Partnership have joined forces to hire one of the world’s topnotch restoration hydrologists. Dubbed by Time Magazine as “The Stream Saver,” Dr. Dave Rosgen has developed what he calls the most comprehensive and groundbreaking watershed restoration plan available. Beginning in November 2011, Rosgen, Ekarius and her team at CUSP, and staff of the Pike-San Isabel National Forest rolled up their sleeves and brought in heavy equipment to help reshape the stream channel and hillslopes along Trail Creek. The overarching goal is to mimic nature, using natural on-site materials to stabilize the stream channel and give a major boost to the land’s recovery process. Rosgen estimates this process would take a minimum of 80 years if left on its own. With heavy machinery, Rosgen’s crew will use native trees and rocks to raise the level of the creek bed and build small retention ponds to hold rain runoff and sediment. The shape of the newly restored landscape will allow for the dispersion of water energy, rather than a concentration,
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as water flows downhill. In advance of this work, Rosgen studied the area closely and prepared a detailed master plan. All told, there are 57 drainages and 157 miles of creeks in 13.5 square miles that will need proactive restoration work in order to prevent severe erosion in the future. But as Rosgen is at work, he is also sharing his knowledge with Ekarius, Billmeyer and the U.S. Forest Service so that work can continue with a trained local workforce in the years ahead.
Hope in Partnerships
Even though Ekarius still feels challenged by the huge scale of Hayman restoration project she remains optimistic. “For me, the most rewarding aspect of this project is the commitment of so many partners— ranging from federal and state agencies to local governments, businesses, nonprofits, and citizens—to roll up their sleeves and work together to fix problems at a landscape scale. So often work is done in a piecemeal, band-aid fashion, but in this case we are looking holistically at the problem, and seeking solutions that can actually yield major changes,” Ekarius says. “Wrapping your arms around an area of this scale takes a lot of time to understand the problem, and to articulate the solutions.” Ekarius no longer sees the landscape as barren. “Most hill slopes are largely revegetated and green; aspen trees and wildlife are actually thriving in many areas; and Colorado Parks and Wildlife have
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reintroduced Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep to the area.” The native ecosystem of this section of the Pike National Forest reflects the area’s elevation and topography, the same variables that make restoration efforts so challenging. Elevational life zones and a variety ecological communities support common species like deer, elk, and Abert’s squirrels and other less common species like lynx, boreal toads, northern goshawks and greenback cutthroat trout. With concentrated restoration efforts on the sites that need it most, native vegetation will return and once again support these species. Along with the heavy lifting accomplished by Rosgen that began in November, the group of partners has recruited thousands of volunteers to help out with the restoration effort each year since the fire. Eric Billmeyer, the energetic research director for the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, has involved 130 volunteers plus Youth Corps and AmeriCorps teams in the project. His crews have completed over 1 mile of stream restoration and 35 acres of forest restoration. Added benefits ripple from these projects into the future stewardship of National Forests; over the course of several weeks at the Hayman site, these young people gained valuable career skills in ecological restoration. They also developed intimate, firsthand knowledge of forest ecology and the importance of citizen stewardship— deepening their understanding of how these public lands provide crucial values for us all. Billmeyer believes his efforts have brought greater awareness to the project throughout southern Colorado. Like Ekarius, Billmeyer remembers the first time he witnessed the aftermath of the Hayman Fire. “I remember driving out to the burn area in July of 2002 and seeing absolute destruction of the forested lands in every direction … it was hard to imagine what it looked like before, and what it could look like again,” he says. But Billmeyer’s firsthand experience seeing recovery has been rewarding. He’s seen his crews’ early revegetation efforts coming to fruition with ground cover and ponderosa pine tree saplings becoming a
Photo © Vail Resorts
Vail Resorts employees volunteer annually to restore the Hayman site.
TREASURED LANDSCAPES common sight throughout much of the area. Along with coordinating volunteers and teams of young people, Billmeyer is also responsible for assessing the effectiveness of different restoration techniques used throughout this Treasured Landscapes project. As a result, there is a continuous learning process woven into the project that benefits all partners and especially the longterm recovery of this charred landscape. The goal is to boost the land to a more resilient state, a baseline from where its own natural recovery processes can take over. Restoring the site of the Hayman Fire is a work in progress, a labor of love and logic, and a project combining art and science. To watch and learn from the people and partners involved in this effort is inspiring and motivating. In the coming year many more volunteers will be needed to follow up on the work so far. Thousands of shrubs and trees must be planted, and many ephemeral draws, or little valleys where rainfall first collects and begins to flow downhill, need special restoration attention in order to retain their soils and keep sediment from flowing into the South Platte watershed. The benefits of collaboration in this Treasured Landscapes campaign site, and other forest restoration projects that protect watersheds have gained serious attention across the nation. Due to government budget cuts, a new era of public-private partnerships is emerging. The Chief of the Forest Service and the Under Secretary for Natural Resources and Environment at the U.S. Department of Agriculture have launched new initiatives to promote watershed protection partnerships. Under Secretary Harris Sherman says, “As state governments and the national government have budgetary problems, we have to be much more focused on how we spend our money. We have to reach out and develop new partnerships and foster collaboration. There are many ways to approach this. The water connection is most powerful.” The U.S. Forest Service’s new broader umbrella Rocky Mountain Watershed Partnership “combines efforts to identify landscapes of mutual interest and accelerate on-theground implementation of forest health treatments, watershed protection, and other restoration efforts in the headwaters.”
As the leading private financial contributor to the National Forest Foundation’s Treasured Landscapes Hayman Restoration Partnership, Vail Resorts is setting a trend for a new funding model that other corporations can follow. Philanthropic support from private foundations is also an important part of the equation and the Gates Family Foundation and others have stepped up to the table to support ecosystem services. Local governments are also key partners; recently the City of Aurora invested $500,000 in the Hayman project because their city leadership team realizes that protecting citizens’ drinking water begins with protecting the headwaters of the South Platte River.
a decade of learnIng
June 8, 2012, marks the 10th anniversary of the Hayman Fire and an opportunity to reflect on and recognize all of the hard work and accomplishments of everyone involved in the restoration and recovery efforts. Partners are already gearing up for the year ahead. Ekarius and Billmeyer are planning their volunteer and education projects for the summer, U.S. Forest Service staff are prioritizing their resources toward the project, and Vail Resorts is already looking forward to their third annual June employee volunteer project at the Hayman site.
In addition, the National Forest Foundation and the U.S. Forest Service Rocky Mountain Research Station will co-host a gathering of scientists and land managers to take stock of all the lessons learned since the fire. The collective energy that has gone into science research within the Hayman provides a special opportunity to highlight scientific learning for the benefit of land managers and their decisionmaking related to fire mitigation and restoration. A report of key findings from the symposium will be used to help design educational lesson plans and activities for science teachers and environmental educators throughout Colorado. The overarching goal is to “link science with community” so that citizens can ultimately play an active role in stewardship of their own forest backyards. And ultimately, understanding that the power of community is stronger than the power of the fire is what the Hayman restoration story is all about. In the face of overwhelming devastation, public and private partners found a way to revitalize a forest. The final lessons will be told, as Ekarius says, in “… the commitment of so many partners—ranging from federal and state agencies to local governments, businesses, nonprofits, and citizens—to roll up their sleeves and work together to fix problems at a landscape scale.”
Bringing the Pike National Forest back to life, youth crews help with tree planting.
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Tongass National Forest, AK
Salmon in the Trees
By Amy Gulick
Crouched on a rock near a churning waterfall, I’m entranced by thousands of salmon thronging in a pool. Fin to fin, tail to tail, they sway against the current as one giant mob, like concert groupies in a mosh pit. I forget that they are individual fish until one springs from the crowded stream, hurling itself against the foaming wall of water. And then another, and another. Fish after fish, leap after leap, so much energy expended, so much energy delivered. The long green arms of Sitka spruce and hemlock trees spread across the stream as if to welcome the salmon back into their forested fold. Click, click, click goes my camera in a frenzied attempt to freeze an airborne fish in my frame. They’re fast, much faster than my reflexes. I try again, and again. Hours vaporize, like the mist rising into the forest from the spray of the waterfall. But for the salmon every minute is precious because their time is coming to an end. They’ve stopped eating. They’re in their final act—spawning—and they won’t stop pushing upstream until they die. Their instinctive drive to pass on their genes is hammered home to me with every leaping fish. Click, click—lots of empty frames. I need to concentrate, but the distractions are many, and wonderful. The harpy screams
of ravens emanating from the forest jolt my soul. Bald eagles swoop from treetops to rock tops, eyeballing the feast before them. Bears march into the stream with purpose, causing me to stand at attention. They know I’m here, but they seem focused on the fish at hand, or at paw. With one eye pressed against the viewfinder, and one eye open for bears, I attempt to focus on anything but instead just bask in the present. I’ve never felt more alive. It’s like I’m swirling in the middle of a wild performance with throbbing music, leaping dancers, and flashing lights. I have a front row seat to one of the greatest shows on Earth, one that plays out every year all over the Tongass National Forest of Southeast Alaska. Just a few days before, there wasn’t a single salmon in this stream. In a few weeks, the only visible evidence of what took place here will be spawned-out carcasses littering the streambanks. The cleanup crews of birds, otters, and mink will scour the remains. Heavy fall rains will wash the fish bones out to sea, and bears will curl up in their dens as snow dusts the mountaintops. The show will be over, but the annual payout is rich. Bald eagles, fueled by salmon, will soar greater distances to find food during the lean winter months.
“When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the universe.” – John Muir
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Bears move great quantities of salmon away from streams and into the forest. The nutrients from the bodies of the fish filter down into the soil, and the trees absorb them through their roots.
Photos © Amy Gulick / salmoninthetrees.org
Every year, millions of wild salmon infuse an upstream flow of nutrients into more than 4,500 spawning streams throughout the Tongass National Forest.
Female bears, padded with fat reserves, will give birth in their dens and nurse their tiny cubs with salmon-enriched milk. The forest, fertilized with supercharged soil from decayed fish, will sprout new growth come spring. And the next generation of salmon is swaddled in the streams and incubated by the forest. The fertilized eggs will soon hatch, ensuring that the cycle of life is a circle, always flowing, never broken. What goes around comes around. The Tongass boasts nearly a third of all that remains of the planet’s rare old-growth temperate rain forests, making it a national as well as a world treasure. Rarer still is that all of the pieces are here—ancient forests, wild salmon, grizzly bears, wolves, Steller sea lions, humpback whales, and more. The circle is whole. And we are part of it too, not strangers on the outside looking in. The Tongass is a place where people live with salmon in their streets and bears in their backyards. That the modern world has arrived, and hasn’t yet broken the circle of life in the 21st century Tongass is nothing short of astounding. But we’re on our way to carving up this extraordinary forest and we only have to look south to the once-magnificent salmon rain forests of Washington, Oregon and Northern California to see how quickly we can decimate ancient trees, wild salmon, and a rich way of life. Not too long ago, we thought we could improve upon what nature had perfected. We put bounties on bald eagles and Dolly Varden trout, thinking we were helping salmon by killing their predators. We tidied and straightened salmon streams, not realizing that nature’s chaos nurtures life. We built fish hatcheries and treated
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photos © Amy Gulick / salmoninthetrees.org
The Tongass is a coastal temperate rain forest, one of the rarest ecosystems on Earth.
salmon like commodities instead of finetuned creatures that have carried their genetic message for millennia. We clear-cut ancient forests, not heeding the wisdom written in all those growth rings of trees many centuries older than us. We did all of this with the best of intentions, thinking we were doing the salmon, forests, and ourselves a favor. We know better today. That scientists have discovered salmon in the trees tells us that everything is connected. And if we start tossing away the pieces, we eventually unravel the whole glorious show. Salmon link the land to the sea and they can’t survive if both aren’t healthy. Neither can we. Long ago, we knew how to live within nature’s constraints. Deep down, I think we still do. We need the Tongass, if for no other reason than to connect us to the world as we once knew ourselves. When the circle is whole, so are we. We’ve been given a great gift, and an even greater responsibility. The Tongass National Forest is public land entrusted to all of us. I think we can get it right in the Tongass simply because there’s still time to do so and we know it’s the right thing to do. Let us learn from the lessons that salmon in the trees teach us and ensure that the greatest show on Earth goes on.
Amy Gulick is an acclaimed nature photographer and writer, and a Fellow with the International League of Conservation Photographers. Her book Salmon in the Trees: Life in Alaska’s Tongass Rain Forest won a 2011 Nautilus Book Award and a 2010 Independent Publisher Book Award. Visit www.salmoninthetrees.org
Restoring the Treasured Tongass With 17 million acres of untamed terrain, the Tongass is the largest National Forest in the United States, not to mention one of the most striking and biologically rich places in the world. Unfortunately, this majestic ecosystem has experienced significant environmental degradation over the years. On Prince of Wales Island in the southeastern corner of the Tongass, widespread clearcut logging has plagued the Twelvemile Creek watershed for generations. The loss of old-growth trees along the area’s streams has led to increased erosion, water temperature changes, and bank destabilization that causes streams to become broader and shallower. Without grand old trees that occasionally topple into the streams, the quality of fish habitat declines, lacking the debris that creates the large pools and cover that fish need. Wildlife habitat has also felt the negative impacts of logging. At one time, oldgrowth forest could be found across the Twelvemile Creek watershed, but extensive logging has changed the nature of the once healthy forested stands. Now, the historical old-growth forests have been replaced by denser secondary growth that shades out the understory, blocking the sunlight that the plants need to survive. Not only does the new, thicker forest impede the growth of important food sources, it also seriously hinders wildlife movement. The National Forest Foundation developed a restoration plan with a
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comprehensive suite of actions that address instream/riparian issues, upland habitat concerns, road decommissioning and storage needs, and monitoring of all actions. Additionally, by building the capacity of partner organizations in the region, the NFF is helping to ensure that our efforts are sustainable and can have a lasting impact on Prince of Wales Island and throughout the Tongass National Forest. Stream restoration will focus on instream habitat improvement through floodplain roughening, bank stabilization, and placement of large woody debris. This work will accelerate natural stream recovery and increase available year-round rearing habitat for juvenile Coho salmon and steelhead trout as well as improve spawning habitat for pink and chum salmon within the mainstem of Twelvemile Creek. Additionally, instream wood placement in tributary streams will improve overwintering conditions for Coho salmon and steelhead trout. With the thinning of secondary forest growth, wildlife habitat will also be greatly improved. Non-native plants will be removed and replaced with native species to restore natural biodiversity. Forest roads no longer in use will be decommissioned and culverts blocking fish passage will be removed, all of which will lead to a wilder and healthier ecosystem, helping to enhance native fish runs and wildlife habitat so critical to this region.
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TREASURED LANDSCAPES Maroon Bells on the White River
National Forest, Colorado
Treasured Landscapes Across the Map White River National Forest, Colorado
As the nation’s most visited National Forest—with more than 10 million visitors annually—the White River National Forest lures folks to the Rocky Mountains with its diverse alpine landscape and dramatic scenery. From skiing to hiking to boating, the White River offers unlimited outdoor adventures. I-70 cuts through the heart
of the forest, providing easy access from Denver. Home to 10 peaks over 14,000 feet high, this Colorado forest also incorporates eight wilderness areas where nature prospers in all its wild glory. To ensure the forest’s resources remain healthy for both humans and animals, the NFF will focus on watershed restoration and wildlife habitat restoration.
Tahoe National Forest, California
To the more than 7 million residents of the Bay Area, the Tahoe National Forest is a natural escape. From scenic mountain vistas to wildflower-studded meadows to carved canyons, the Tahoe is treasured by many. The wet winter snows fuel world-renowned ski slopes and the river canyons and high peaks offer cool summer escapes for visitors. Placer Big Trees Grove houses the most northerly stand of naturally occurring giant sequoias for a truly humbling experience. Waters from the Tahoe National Forest supply many regional cities, including Lincoln and Auburn, Calif., and Reno and Tahoe National Forest (Left); White Mountain National Forest (Right)
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Sparks, Nev. The NFF will be focusing on restoration of the Truckee River watershed by strengthening ecological resiliency and community conservation capacity.
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White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire
Thanks to its close proximity to Boston and other East Coast metropolises, the White Mountain National Forest is one of the most popular National Forests in the country. Hikers from near and far come to explore more than 1,200 miles of trail, including 100 miles of the Appalachian Trail. In the fall, colors splash the mountains as leaf peepers comb the area for the best views. Trout fishing in rivers throughout the forest attracts anglers for both roadside
Photos © Missing35mm, Denis Jr. Tangney, and Ron and Patty Thomas Photography / iStockPhoto.com
In 2012, the NFF is dramatically expanding its Treasured Landscapes restoration sites by adding another seven spectacular locations to our suite of restoration priorities.
TREASURED LANDSCAPES Photos © Shuyi Li, Jeff Goulden, and Caitlin_Mirra / iStockPhoto.com; Greg Tensmeyer / USFS
and backcountry access. Due to Hurricane Irene, recreation access, trails specifically, desperately need attention. Restoration efforts will focus on reopening these trails so that all may enjoy this treasure again.
Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest, Utah
Truly a backyard forest for the greater Salt Lake City region, the Uinta-WasatchCache National Forest offers an escape for everyone. Skiers flock to the forest for world-renowned powder, while drivers cruise the roads on one of the seven scenic byways. Hikers explore countless miles of trails though the rugged mountains and nine wilderness areas. The Uinta-WatsatchCache National Forest supplies Salt Lake City with 85 percent of its water supply. At this Treasured Landscapes site, the National Forest Foundation will join with partners to ensure the watersheds sustain such a crucial resource.
Coconino National Forest, Arizona
From Arizona’s tallest volcanic peaks to its mystic red rock bluffs, the Coconino National Forest encompasses some of the state’s most iconic landmarks. Large herds of elk rely on the forest, which is also home to bald eagles, pronghorn antelope and osprey, thanks to its rich diversity of woodlands, prairie and waterways. Winter snows and cool summer swimming holes attract outdoors enthusiasts from the desert regions year-round. In selecting this region as a Treasured Landscapes site, the NFF has chosen to lend a hand with 4FRI— the “Four Forests Restoration Initiative.” This innovative restoration campaign aims
to reduce forest fuels, reinvigorate the Southwest’s native ponderosa pine forests, and restore critical watersheds.
Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, Washington
Due to the geographic stretch of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, which spans much of central Washington, not one landscape dominates the forest. From the shrub-steppe of the eastern edge to heavy, old-growth forests to the snowy peaks of the Cascades—this forest has it all. Alpine lakes hide away for anglers while diverse wildernesses await explorers of all types. Thanks to geologic formations, rock climbers flock to the granite walls and volcanic basalt formations. Winter sports abound with ample opportunities for skiing, snowshoeing and dog-sledding. Impacts of growing recreation uses, insect outbreaks and invasive species, and wildfire risk are among the issues that the NFF’s restorations strategies will address.
Idaho Panhandle National Forests, Idaho
From the shores of big lakes to the banks of winding rivers, the Idaho Panhandle National Forests create a tapestry of land and water in North Idaho. Long a lifeline
Coconino National Forest
Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest (Top);
Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest (Above)
for local communities, these forests first drew settlers interested in earning a living by extracting silver, gold and large timber. Remnant roads that once led to work now lead to play, and treasures sought are now recreational: water-based fun, winter activities and the traditional hiking, hunting and fishing. Large game— including elk and deer, grizzly bears, wolves and caribou—add to the area’s wild nature. More than half the state’s surface water is on the forest, with vast lakes and miles of rivers supporting world-class fisheries. These watersheds have been identified as a priority for the National Forest System, leading the NFF to focus on forest watershed restoration for this Treasured Landscapes site.
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KIDS & NATURE
taken part in stewardship on a National Forest before, 84 percent of them said they would consider future employment with the Forest Service. In Pennsylvania, it became clear that one day does not an outdoors enthusiast or conservationist make. Washington’s approach—where some multi-day events and stipends for the youth were involved— nurtured a greater connection. But there are still looming social, economic and physical barriers for many of those kids in pursuing a more nature-oriented life.
Inspiring the Next Generation
By Jennifer Schoonen
Last fall, I joined a group of Pennsylvania high school students invited to spend a day learning about and participating in a little backyard forest stewardship. They didn’t have to travel far to reach their closest National Forest—the Allegheny—but it might as well have been a million miles away. The kids, all members of the same high school forestry class, toured a series of forest restoration plots. They hung bluebird boxes and erected two towering bat boxes. Frogs lurking in a network of vernal pools captured their attention briefly, and the students had the privilege of gazing up at a grand old American chestnut tree heavily laden with spiny chestnut burrs—a true rarity in modern-day forests. As high school students are prone to do, they reveled in the chance to skip out on a few hours of classroom time. That reaction I certainly expected. What I did not expect was the gaping divide between these youth and the outdoors. For kids living so close to an expanse of public forest land, their experience with and interest in this place was surprisingly limited. And very few expressed that outdoor activities or professions might figure prominently into their future. A couple thousand miles to the west, the National Forest Foundation just wrapped up a year-long program focused on youth service-learning activities on Washington’s Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Managed capably by the NFF’s young
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AmeriCorps intern, Stella Torres, the program led to 19 youth stewardship and education events, engaging more than 700 young people in 3,000 hours of quality time spent on the forest. The program focused largely on urban, diverse and economically disadvantaged youth, youth with special needs, and youth who would not otherwise have a chance to spend time on National Forests. Their accomplishments comprise an impressive list: 8,960 linear feet of trail built or maintained; 2,000 pounds of trash removed; eight wildlife habitat structures built or installed; 31,000 square feet of nonnative plants cleared; three campgrounds and one fire lookout maintained; and much more. But the comments from the youth themselves reveal the real results. “I’ve never been camping with my family,” said one 14-year-old female student. “If it weren’t for these trips I would never experience this.” “I like being outside because it’s calm here,” said an 18-year-old male participant. “In the city where I live, there is a lot of noise and air pollution. I like that I can breathe fresh air out here.” As the year came to a close, a survey of 45 participating youth demonstrated that we might be on the right track. Although 74 percent of the Washington youth engaged through this program had never visited or
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A Mountain of Challenges As those of us who love our National Forests work today to ensure their future, how do we prepare for the hand-off ? What will inspire today’s youth to become tomorrow’s biologists, outdoor adventurers, fishing guides and conservationists? In 2010, the Obama Administration framed the concept of “America’s Great Outdoors.” Leaders from several federal agencies were charged with engaging the American people in developing a 21st century conservation and recreation agenda that would indeed inspire younger generations and ensure the future of our public lands and waters. Across the country, 51 listening sessions took place, including 21 focused specifically on youth. The youth feedback proved we have a steep mountain to climb as we strive to improve the statistics about kids’ connection to the outdoors. Their growing detachment from nature is spotlighted in the fact that today’s youth spend half as much time outdoors as their parents did. So what’s keeping them in? The youth themselves identified a slew of problems. Poor access and transportation options to reach outdoor spaces … fear of the unknown … perceived costs of outdoor activity … lack of mentors and programs to introduce them to nature … the lure of electronic entertainment … overly busy schedules … all just a handful of the influences stifling the outdoor connection. Though we have a wealth of environmental education programs available, both online and in schools, one young person
Photo © Stella Torres, NFF
Washington youth get up close with wetlands ecology.
KIDS & NATURE Photos © Stella Torres, NFF
Near Seattle, older students helped to teach younger ones about wildlife.
made a valuable point. “Things that take place in the outside world are things that really exist,” the New York student said. “Things that take place inside the classroom exist in a textbook. We need to be able to connect … being outside is a real experience as opposed to textbooks in the classrooms.” Designing Programs that Work So mentors and place-based programs that break down some of the barriers to outdoor activity provide a great place to start. The Pennsylvania high school kids may need multiple and diverse opportunities to uncover just what about the outdoors inspires them—whether it be physical activity, a serene escape, or firsthand nature study. The Washington youth went one step further with more in-depth experiences, and many began thinking about futures that involved the outdoors as a result. For its part, the agency that oversees our National Forests, the U.S. Forest Service, operates numerous education and outreach programs aimed at youth. These programs draw from a wealth of professional resources—the Forest Service employs some of the world’s top-notch scientists and natural resources professionals. In recent years, a couple of efforts stand out. More Kids in the Woods
Launched five years ago, this Forest Service program offers competitive funding for partnership projects that engage kids in active, meaningful outdoor activities. The project funding focuses on reaching diverse and underserved youth. In 2011, the projects supported included an outdoor explorers mentoring program that connected Montana university
students skilled in outdoor pursuits with kids served by the local Big Brothers Big Sisters program. In California, the Gang Resistance Education and Training (GREAT) Program summer camp immerses at-risk kids in camping and service-learning experiences that encourage good citizenship and environmental awareness. Several organizations serving kids with ADHD in Puerto Rico teamed up to take part in specialized camping/ therapy events on El Yunque National Forest. More than $500,000 of Forest Service funding went into the More Kids in the Woods program in 2011, all of which is highly leveraged by additional support brought to the programs by the local partner organizations. Children’s Forest Network
In the fall of 2009, Alaska celebrated an innovative new idea. With inauguration of the Chugach Children’s Forest, they established much more than a symbolic designation for the forest’s entire 5.5 million acres. The designation arose out of a partnership between Alaska Geographic and the Chugach National Forest, who worked with communities, nonprofits and educators to create a suite of new programs focused on strengthening youth outdoor engagement. Some of those programs aim to improve long-term health by connecting youths to the outdoors and a more active lifestyle. Others invigorate K-12 education or open new career pathways in science, technology, and innovation. Youth expeditions, career skills training, scientific research—all connected to nature—make up the variety of opportunities offered for Alaska’s youth. Thanks in part to the Chugach’s success, today this program has expanded throughout the National Forest System as other forests from California to Wisconsin adopt the model. Early in 2011, the Forest Service committed $500,000 to expansion of the Children’s Forest Network—with the strategy here also designed to engage multiple partners and leverage their additional funding at the local level.
now, the consequences promise to impact our children, our communities and our environment. With 30 percent of our children already considered obese, a continued lack of outdoor activity will only exacerbate the problem. Community health of a different sort—economic—is also at risk. Spending by recreation visitors in areas around National Forests is estimated at $13 billion annually, sustaining 224,000 fulland part-time jobs. Clearly an outdoorsoriented public provides the lifeblood for many cities and towns. Ultimately, we are losing the constituency needed to perpetuate great wild places and a healthy environment. Our public lands legacy derives from a citizenbased movement, born of individuals who treasured their time outdoors and understood the critical value of our natural resources. Children who lack that personal connection to nature won’t likely grow up inspired by the same conservation ethic. It’s certainly a concern for the agency charged with caring for our National Forests and Grasslands. In a newsletter published by the Center for a Better Life, U.S. Forest Service Director of Conservation Education Safiya Samman wrote, “America’s public lands have been part of the fabric of American life since the beginning of the Nation. Until recently, it has been impossible to separate kids from the great outdoors. The latter was part of the heart and soul of every child, as well as every adult. The U.S. Forest wants this legacy—this gift—to continue for current and future generations, not only for the welfare of each and every child on Earth, but for the welfare of Earth itself.” While pitching in to clear trails, Washington youth also studied forest ecology.
Both Forest Service programs are still young—so their long-term impacts won’t be revealed for some time. But if we don’t focus on reversing the trends
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STEWARDSHIP FUNDS
CoLoraDo
Arapahoe Basin Ski & Snowboard Area The Arrabelle at Vail Square, a RockResort Beaver Creek Resort Breckenridge Ski Resort Copper Mountain Resort Keystone Resort The Lodge at Vail, a RockResort One Ski Hill Place, a RockResort The Osprey at Beaver Creek, a RockResort The Pines, a RockResort Vail Mountain Vail Resorts Hospitality Winter Park Resort
IDaho
Sun Valley Resort
neW MexICo Ski Apache
oregon
staY, pLaY, MaKe a DIFFerenCe Each year, National Forests host families returning to their favorite resorts and campsites, friends on roadtrips hopping from forest to forest, and couples seeking outdoor adventure. The NFF’s Ski Conservation FundTM and Forest Stewardship Fund make it easy for these visitors to give back to their favorite forests. At partner lodges, resorts, guiding companies, campgrounds, and other businesses, visitors simply leave an extra buck in campground fee envelopes, donate a dollar per room night at hotels, give a little extra when purchasing a lift ticket,
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or contribute as part of a guiding service. The NFF uses these funds to support onthe-ground projects, improving wildlife habitat, enhancing trails and recreation areas, restoring watersheds, and more. Next time you visit a National Forest, stop by one of these partner businesses, where you can stay, play, and make a difference:
CaLIFornIa
Kirkwood Mountain Resort Mt. Shasta Ski Park Sierra at Tahoe Sugar Bowl
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Black Butte Ranch Cascade Vacation Rentals Cold Springs Resort Cooper Spur Mountain Resort Crescent Lake Lodge and Resort Five Pine Lodge Hoodoo Campgrounds on the Deschutes National Forest Lake Creek Lodge Metolius River Lodges Mt. Bachelor Ski Resort Mount Hood Meadows Ski Resort Best Western Ponderosa Lodge Sun Country Tours Sunriver Resort Timberline Lodge and Ski Area
Utah
Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort
WashIngton
Lake Quinault Lodge Skamania Lodge
WYoMIng
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Togwotee Mountain Lodge
Photo © Cottonwood Canyons Foundation
Volunteers with Utah’s Cottonwood Canyons Foundation conduct trail work supported by the NFF’s Ski Conservation Fund.
Corporate Sponsorships “It is not what we have that will make us a great nation; it is the way in which we use it.” – Theodore Roosevelt
To learn more about National Forest Foundation corporate partnerships, contact: Jennifer Schoonen Vice President for Development 406-830-3354 jschoonen@nationalforests.org Or visit our web site:
www.nationalforests.org
In one way or another, our National Forest System benefits the clients and customers of every company in our nation. The National Forest Foundation builds corporate partnerships that help companies meet their own sustainability and environment goals while giving back to a public resource we can all appreciate. The NFF offers highly leveraged conservation results and a connection to the people who love America’s unique legacy of National Forests and Grasslands.
Consider the many ways to express your corporate commitment to sustaining our public lands resources... Become a Corporate Member Launch a Tree-planting Campaign with Customers Support a Treasured Landscapes Restoration Site Offset Your Company’s Carbon Footprint Engage Employees in Volunteerism
Help Protect America’s Backyard
The 193-million-acre National Forest System provides an expanded backyard for all Americans. With your support, the National Forest Foundation helps ensure these lands will always give us joy, adventure and solitude. For just $35, you (or your gift recipient) will receive: • a one-year membership with the National Forest Foundation (NFF). • subscription to the official magazine of the NFF—Your National Forests. • 10 trees will be planted to restore one of America’s National Forests. (If you wish to give a gift membership, your gift recipient will receive the above benefits with a card notifying them that this special gift came from you.)
3 easy ways to order: Mail: Return the form below to: NFF, Fort Missoula Rd – Bldg 27, Suite 3, Missoula, MT 59804 Online: www.nationalforests.org Contact: dsnyder@nationalforests.org or 406.830.3355
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