VOGUE 24 YEARS
OF FASHION
Special Anne Wintour
Table of contents -ANNA WINTOUR............ 1 -EARLY LIFE ............2 -FROM FASHION TO JOURNALISM ............3 -NEW YORK CITY ............ 4,5 -CONDE NAST ............ 6,7 -200S ............ 8,9 -2010S ............ 10 -THE DEVILS WEAR PRADA ............ 11 -DOCUMENTARY : “THE SEPTEMBRER ISSUE“............12
A
nna Wintour, born 3 November 1949 is the English editor-inchief of American Vogue, a position she has held since 1988. In 2013, she became artistic director for Conde Nast, Vogue's publisher. With her trademark pageboy bob haircut and dark sunglasses, Wintour has become an important figure in much of the fashion world, widely praised for her eye for fashion trends and her support for younger designers. Her reportedly aloof and demanding personality has earned her the nickname "Nuclear Wintour". She is the eldest daughter of Charles Wintour, editor of the London Evening Standard. Her father consulted her on how to make the newspaper relevant to the youth of the era. Anna became interested in fashion as a teenager. Her career in fashion journalism began at two British magazines. Later, she moved to the United States, with stints at New York and House & Garden.
S
he returned home for a year to turn around British Vogue, and later assumed control of the franchise’s magazine in New York, reviving what many saw as a stagnating publication. Her use of the magazine to shape the fashion industry has been the subject of debate within it. Animal rights activists have attacked her for promoting fur, while other critics have charged her with using the magazine to promote elitist views of femininity and beauty. A former personal assistant, Lauren Weisberger, wrote the 2003 best selling roman à clef The Devil Wears Prada, later made into a successful film starring Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly, a fashion editor, believed to be based on Wintour. In 2009, she was the focus of another film, R.J. Cutler’s documentary The September Issue.
1
Early life I
n her youth, Wintour was educated at the independent North London Collegiate School, where she frequently rebelled against the dress code by taking up the hemlines of her skirts.At the age of 14, she began wearing her hair in a bob.She developed an interest in fashion as a regular viewer of Cathy McGowan on Ready Steady Go!,and from the issues of Seventeen her grandmother sent from America. "Growing up in London in the '60s, you'd have to have had Irving Penn's sack over your head not to know something extraordinary was happening in fashion," she recalled. Her father regularly consulted her when he was considering ideas for increasing readership in the youth market. At the age of 15, she began dating well-connected older men. She was involved briefly with Piers Paul Read, then 24. In her later teens, she and gossip columnist Nigel Dempster became a fixture on the London club circuit.
2
From fashion to journalism
I
think my father really decided for me that I should work in fashion, she recalled in The September Issue.He arranged for his daughter's first job, at the influential Biba boutique, when she was 15. The next year, she left North London Collegiate and began a training program at Harrods. At her parents' behest, she also took fashion classes at a nearby school. Soon she gave them up, saying, "You either know fashion or you don't." Another older boyfriend, Richard Neville, gave her her first experience of magazine production at his popular and controversial Oz.[19] In 1970, when Harper's Bazaar UK merged with Queen to become Harper's & Queen, Wintour was hired as one of its first editorial assistants, beginning her career in fashion journalism.She told her co-workers that she wanted to edit Vogue.While there, she discovered model Annabel Hodin, a former North London classmate. Her connections helped her secure locations for innovative shoots by Helmut Newton, Jim Lee and other trend-setting photographers. One recreated the works of Renoir and Manet using models in go-go boots. After chronic disagreements with her rival, Min Hogg, she quit and moved to New York with her boyfriend, freelance journalist Jon Bradshaw
r e h t i e u o n o Y i " sh a f w " . o t ' n k n o d u o y or
3
New York City I
n her new home, she became a junior fashion editor at Harper's Bazaar in New York City in 1975. Wintour's innovative shoots led editor Tony Mazzola to fire her after nine months. She was introduced to Bob Marley by one of Bradshaw's friends, and disappeared with him for a week. A few months later, Bradshaw helped her get her first position as a fashion editor, at Viva, a women's adult magazine started by Kathy Keeton, then wife of Penthouse publisher Bob Guccione. She has rarely discussed working there, due to that connection. This was the first job at which she was able to hire a personal assistant, which began her reputation as a demanding and difficult boss.
4
I
n late 1978, Guccione shut down the unprofitable magazine. Wintour decided to take some time off from work. She broke up with Bradshaw and began a relationship with French record producer Michel Esteban, for two years dividing her time with him between Paris and New York. She returned to work in 1980, succeeding Elsa Klensch as fashion editor for a new women's magazine named Savvy.It sought to appeal to career-conscious professional women, who spent their own money, the readers Wintour would later target at Vogue. The following year, she became fashion editor of New York. There, the fashion spreads and photo shoots she had been putting together for years finally began attracting attention. Editor Edward Kosner sometimes bent very strict rules for her and let her work on other sections of the magazine. She learned through her work on a cover involving Rachel Ward how effectively celebrity covers sold copies. "Anna saw the celebrity thing coming before everyone else did," Grace Coddington said three decades later. A former colleague arranged for an interview with Vogue editor Grace Mirabella that ended when Wintour told Mirabella she wanted her job.
"Anna saw the celebrity thing coming before everyone 5 else did"
I
CondĂŠ Nast
n 1985, Wintour attained her first editorship, taking over British Vogue after Beatrix Miller retired.Once in charge, she replaced many staffers and exerted far more control over the magazine than any previous editor had, earning the nickname "Nuclear Wintour" in the process. Those editors who were retained began to refer to the period as "The Wintour of Our Discontent."Her changes moved the magazine from its traditional eccentricity to a direction more in line with the American magazine. Wintour's ideal reader was the same woman Savvy had tried to reach. "There's a new kind of woman out there," she told the Evening Standard. "She's interested in business and money. She doesn't have time to shop anymore. She wants to know what and why and where and how."
6
In 1987, Wintour returned to New York to take over House & Garden. Its circulation had long lagged behind rival Architectural Digest, and CondĂŠ Nast hoped she could improve it. Again, she made radical changes to staff and look, canceling $2 million worth of photo spreads and articles in her first week
Novem-
ber 1988 cover of American Vogue magazine, showing model Michaela Bercu, shot from just below the waist in natural outdoor light, wearing a $10,000 jewel-encrusted Christian LaCroix T-shirt with faded 450 jeans. The top headline on the cover reads "The real cost of looking good"
Ten
months later, she finally became editor of Vogue. Under Mirabella, it had become more focused on lifestyles as a whole and less on fashion. Industry insiders worried that it was losing ground to the recently introduced American edition of Elle
7
The September 2004 issue was 832 pages, the largest issue
of a monthly magazine ever published at that time, since exceeded by the September 2007 issue Cutler's documentary covered. Wintour also oversaw the introduction of three spinoffs: Teen Vogue, Vogue Living and Men's Vogue. Teen Vogue has published more ad pages and earned more advertiser revenue than either Elle Girl and Cosmo Girl, and the 164 ad pages in the dĂŠbut issue of Men's Vogue were the most for a first issue in CondĂŠ Nast history. Adage named her "Editor of the Year" for this brand expansion. Queen Elizabeth II appointed her Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in the 2008 Birthday Honours.
2000s
8
That year was generally difficult, as the
economy worsened. After ruffling feathers at the Milan shows in February, the April issue's cover image of LeBron James and Gisele B端ndchen brought criticism for its evocation of racial stereotypes. The next month a lavish Karl Lagerfeld gown she wore to the Met's Costume Institute Gala was called "the worst fashion faux pas of 2008."
9
I
2010s
n 2013, CondĂŠ Nast announced she would be taking on the position of artistic director for the company's magazines while remaining at Vogue. She assumed some of the responsibilities of Si Newhouse, the company's longtime editorial director, who, in his mid-80s at the time, had begun moving from his role at CondĂŠ Nast to join the rest of his family in managing Advance Publications, its parent company. A company spokesman told The New York Times the position was created to keep Wintour. She described it as "an extension of what I am doing, but on a broader scale."
10
The Devil Wears Prada
L
auren Weisberger, a former Wintour assistant who left Vogue for Departures along with Richard Story, wrote The Devil Wears Prada after a writing workshop he suggested she take. It was eagerly anticipated for its supposed insider portrait of Wintour prior to its publication. Wintour told The New York Times, "I always enjoy a great piece of fiction. I haven't decided whether I am going to read it or not."While it has been suggested that the setting and Miranda Priestly were based on Vogue and Wintour, Weisberger claims she drew not only from her own experiences but those of her friends as well.Wintour herself makes a cameo appearance near the end of the book, where it is said she and Miranda dislike each other.
11
Documentary : "The September Issue " A & E IndieFilms and R.J. Cutler recorded a docu-
mentary that makes a chronology of the creation of the September issue of Vogue . Cutler approached Wintour in 2004 and led the project, entitled " The September Issue " , which was recorded over eight months while Wintour prepared the number to fall fashion , known in the industry as " the Bible of the Fashion". The documentary is a profile of Wintour , but rather a look "behind racks " in Vogue. AEIF piece completed in 2008 in time for the entry into festivals
12
VOGUE NAVILA GARCIA RODRIGUEZ