NEH Magazine August-September 2011 by NEH Magazine

NEH

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08/09.11

CONTENTS

CULTURE FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

The F-WORDS 22

Brötchen Brings GermanKorean Fusion to Gangnam

Brötchen is one of Seoul’s true diamonds in the rough. A German-Korean fusion restaurant that packs a punch in both its menu and its décor. 24

sonyun sanghoi: an italian pojangmacha in seoul

Sonyun Sanghoi, which translates to “Little Boy’s Market”, is the entrepreneurial venture of Chef Chae Nah Kyoung. by Michele farley

Jjampong Inferno

Shingil-dong Maeun Jjampong is getting lots of attention for its unbearably spicy noodles.

by JJ Velasquez

Gostiniy Dvor: where your stomach will expand like a babushka doll’s

If it’s authentic, homemade Russian food you’re after Gostiniy Dvor is the place to get your fix. With an Eastern European background, you can trust that I know what she’s talking about.

by Iga Motylska

Microbrewevolution in the Land of Morning Calm

Beer entrepreneur, Chul Park, and a band of foreigners have been crafting a Microbrewevolution since the dawn of the new millennium. by William du Plessis

The Alliance Between Fashion and Art

It’s no surprise that fashion and art can’t exist without each other. The following are Seoul’s best offerings of both shopping and art at the same time.

by adel kim

Bury me in Bows and Ribbon A look at expats who feel comfortable donning the Korean style, and those who feel it’s just too strange for them and can’t quite make the leap.

by Justin Walden

7 Must-See Korean Films for Foreigners

Are you interested in Korean cinema but don’t know where to start? The following is a short list of films that would give any film enthusiast a good grounding for what Korean cinema has to offer.

Departments 8

by Christopher J. Wheeler

Letter from the editor 11

the think tank

On the Cover

rap artist busta rhymes photographed exclusively for neh by philipPe teston

the intro

at the Green Groove Festival, Daecheon Beach, South Korea. photoshoot direction by C.J. Koster-Allen on site photoshoot assistance by Jinah Kim-Allen and Whisper Chase photo scheduling by Dustin Wilshire

the forum NEH

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08/09.11 CULTURE FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

(continued from page 3)

The Cover Story 56

Busta rhymes

You would think that at this stage in his illustrious career, no location would still be left unturned by Busta Rhymes and his crew. To the contrary, the hip hop legend made his first appearance in Korea at Green Groove 2011. Before, during and after his downpour inducing set, the NEH staff worked tirelessly to bring you the exclusive interview.

by dustin wilshire

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ÂŠ ur culture

08/09.11 CULTURE FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

The Forum (continued from page 4)

dustin wilshire: winehouse, the 27 club and addiction

Tea: an Infusion of Korean Culture

Grammy award winning musician Amy Winehouse’s recent death admits her into the exclusive 27 Club. Her documented substance abuse problems are no secret. Why does the dark place brought on by addiction facilitate the best music?

Teahouses are beginning to compete with large coffeehouses due to the realization that not only does tea taste delicious but it also offers the drinker many health benefits. The teahouses in Insadong are a haven for tea lovers where one can relax in a natural environment.

by Iga Motylska

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In this month’s column, Ryan Rutherford attempts to deflate the smug notion that believing in a higher power ensures superior moral conduct.

There are a lot of things to appreciate about YouTube. Take for example the choreographed cooking episodes. Three words. Epic. Meal. Time. It’s obnoxious, arrogant and disgusting, which makes it magnificent content.

ryan rutherford: being good sans dieu

joseph kast: here comes china

Transitions are inevitable. For some, like former International Monetary Fund (IMF) director Dominique Strauss-Kahn, the change is forced upon you.

dustin wilshire: youtube rant

whisper chase: Step Away From the Barbecue and Put on an Apron!

How to get back to a healthy palate while living in the land of fried chicken, beer, and barbecue.

Right: Busta Rhymes with Editorial Director Whisper Chase. Below: Contributing Editor Dustin Wilshire, with rapper Spliff Star.

Magazine-ing 101: The Exclusive

BUSABUSSSSSS!! xclusives are hard to get. They oftentimes take ingenuity, This icon of the American music industry and nine-time Grammy nominee creativity, some finagling and a bit of sweet-talking on the recently made his first trip to South Korea to perform at the Green Groove part of the writer to secure. They don’t typically just fall Festival held in Daecheon on August 13th to a crowd that included Korean into the laps of a publication; the publication has to fight K-Pop stars Jay Park, Drunken Tiger and T (Yoon Mi-rae). Originally not intending to do interviews, Busta had flown into Incheon for them. Such articles are called exclusives because they’re special and unique to the magazine that publishes them. In airport just hours before he was set to perform and had made the five hour the mind of this editor, articles or photos that are bought or drive to Daechon only to find himself caught on stage in the middle of a mioffered by a third party do not qualify for “exclusive” status; nor torrential downpour. Busta even endured a plastic cup whizzing past his head while he was on stage (a mothis school of thought ment that has since become a contensometimes might be contious topic of conversation amongst fusing to some other ediKorean netizens). torial policy-makers. Some editors may Waiting in the press area for an opporchoose, regardless of the merit, to imply tunity, the perseverance and resourcethat an article has been done by its staff August-September 2011 fulness of Wilshire, Editorial Director by enlisting the promotional appeal of the Whisper Chase, General Manager Jinah cover, thereby lying to its readership. Kim-Allen and photographer Philippe As well as being unique to the publicaTeston and the rapport that Chase had tion, for a feature to be considered “exclubuilt with Rhymes’ manager eventually sive” it needs to be done by the magazine paid off when Wilshire and Chase were and its staff (again, that is this editor’s invited into Rhymes’ trailer for “just two opinion). To do otherwise—whether by questions” (which eventually became a portraying the article as a standard infifteen-minute conversation about their terview when the implication suggests fandom and Rhymes’ career). otherwise or by publishing artwork (parTo say that Rhymes was a class act ticularly on the cover) that is not (by all would be an understatement. The fact intents and purposes) a real photo—is that he had taken the time to meet with us simply bad journalism. after a long day of traveling and a superAs I’ve said before and continue to soaker performance is a testament to his maintain, it is the responsibility of a magwillingness to acknowledge his fans. The azine’s readership to hold it accountable for its content. Just as a publication should never plagiarize or unknowingly NEH staff, and myself personally, would like to thank Busta Rhymes’ manpublish an article that has been editorialized to portray something other ager Rebekah for allowing us even just the smallest amount of time to speak than what it is (an overblown publicity grab), the publication should have with Busta. We would also like to thank Busta himself for being so courteous and welcoming. the wherewithal to prove the article’s authenticity and exclusivity. Thanks also to the organizers and staff of UR Culture and Green Groove Our cover and feature interview this month is all of the things I’ve described an exclusive to be. Contributing Editor Dustin Wilshire brings us for putting on an amazing event. The staff felt pampered like kings and the first and only sit-down interview done by any Korean media with the leg- queens and we definitely look forward to your next big event! C.J. Koster-Allen endary Busta Rhymes (or @BusaBusss as he is known in the Twitter-verse).

letter from the editor

“To say that Rhymes’ was a class act would be an understatement. The fact that he had took the time to meet with us after a long day of traveling and a super-soaker performance is a testament to his willingness to acknowledge his fans.”

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NEH

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NEH founding editors

publisher / editor in chief

kelly williams & C.J. koster-allen

c.j. koster-allen

general manager

jinah kim-allen (jinahka@nehmagazine.com)

editorial director

whisper chase (whisperc@nehmagazine.com)

creati v e director photography director contributing editor e v ents coordinator editor at large public relations consultant director of corporate de v elopment

stylist copy editors contributing writers

lillian rihela (lillianr@nehmagazine.com) luc bonnici (lucb@nehmagazine.com) dustin wilshire (dustinw@nehmagazine.com) maria napitupulu (marian@nehmagazine.com) ryan rutherford (ryanr@nehmagazine.com) michele farley jonathan beaton

inga aftaeva marybeth anderson, whisper chase, vanessa lopez, ryan rutherford sae-hee burke, whisper chase, Josh hamlet, joseph kast, Adel Kim, William Du Plessis, michele farley, iga motylska, ryan rutherford, jj velasquez, christopher J. wheeler, justin walden, dustin wilshire

designers

kelvin brassbridge, darren â&#x20AC;&#x153;Deeâ&#x20AC;? taurao-hunia, daniel sanchez, brent schanding

contributing photographers & artists

lindsey coon, michele farley, leah hoelscher, inge kathleen, iga motylska, maria napitupulu, kelsey smith, jennifer ross, philippe teston, PAt VOLZ, joel zellers

office address and information

office phone: 032.323.7472 daewoo myville 1160-1 central park 611 jung-dong, bucheon south korea

ad v ertising in q uiries

advertising@nehmagazine.com 032.323.7472 c.j. koster-allen (english service) jinah kim-allen (korean service)

submission in q uiries

submissions@nehmagazine.com contact whisper chase (whisperc@nehmagazine.com)

general in q uiries

info@nehmagazine.com content: editor@nehmagazine.com photography: luc bonnici (lucb@nehmagazine.com) design: lillian rihela (lillianr@nehmagazine.com) events: maria napitupulu (marian@nehmagazine.com) korean assistance: jinah kim-allen (jinahka@nehmagazine.com)

organization

neh media is a division of neh organization neh magazine is published monthly throughout the year. the editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees, or assurances with regard to goods or services advertised in this issue. no part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole, without the written consent of the publisher. the opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent those of the editors or neh organization.

inge kathleen

Born the fifth child of nine children; contracted middle-child syndrome at a young age. Won watermelon eating contests for attention, but enjoys the magic of being the fly on the wall. Loves birthdays more than cakes, and barefooted life more than one of shoes. Reads cookbooks for pleasure. Considers early morning the best time of day, but would never give up the opportunity to stargaze the night away. Loves puddle jumping, good cheese, anything pumpkin, movie previews, dancing, Thanksgiving, sleep, real strong coffee, and running crazylong distances just because. Cooks weird food, but ecstatically eats much weirder. Would rather receive a pineapple than a bouquet of flowers. Was suddenly cured of Middle-Child Syndrome by developing the chronic disease of Wanderlust. Each day her condition worsens. She is off on the adventure of life, always equipped with her precious camera and delicious food, excited to see where life leads next, Mongolia perhaps? Check out Inge’s editorial portfolio at her www.ingekathleen.com

think tank

A Selection of This month’s contributors

kim adel

I’m from Russia, Volgograd. One year ago I received the opportunity to come to Korea to study and am currently starting my Graduate Program in Art Studies at Hongik University. Living in the Hongdae area definitely changes your life. You see how active and interesting Seoul art life is and you simply cannot stay away from it anymore. I’m trying to locate every event or exhibition place in Seoul which is worth seeing and share my knowledge with NEH readers.

dustin wilshire

Educated in International Business. Previous career in recruiting and human resources. World traveler. Growing more opinionated with age. Biggest Trail Blazer fan outside of Portland. Dustin left Rip City for Seoul City after the economic disaster resulted in downsizing. He now passes the time as the contributing editor for NEH, the author of www.ripcitytoseoul.com, the English language writer for K-POP Icon Bada and as a documentarian of happenings in Korea. NEH

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community

& events

thE neTwork Photography by maria napitupulu

On Saturday, July 23, NEH hosted its July issue release party in Gangnam for the first time at Sparkle Champagne Lounge. Cover model and Samsung Thunder player Eric Sandrin was in attendance to meet fans and sign copies of the magazine. Sparkle is a wine bar located in Garusugil serving fantastic food and drinks. NEH Magazine would like to thank Sparkle for welcoming NEH and its readers.

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NEH

Sammy Clay & Robin BoyWonder

Making Hip-Hop

“

Louder ” Than Words words by josh hamlet / photography by lauren micaela

Hip-Hop. Intelligent. Jazz. Soulful. Conscious.

Evolutionary. International. Honest. All of these words could and should be used to describe the new mixtape dropped by Sammy Clay (vocals), Robin BoyWonder (production) and Overgrowth Productions (sound engineering and mixing) onto the Seoul hip-hop scene called “Louder Than Words.” Sammy Clay and Robin BoyWonder met back at the University of Victoria on the outskirts of Vancouver, Canada, through mutual friends and the music scene. From there, their musical relationship blossomed, with Robin BoyWonder bringing “in a whole new flavor that [Clay] wasn’t used to.” About two years ago, Clay took his degree and made his way to Seoul “to get more involved in entertainment and work on [his] music.” Clay has since been developing his skills and rhymes. “I was a raw artist. From the first song to the eleventh song… We’re getting to be more mature artists.” Robin BoyWonder remained in Canada, developing his music interests, “I’m always looking for ways to evolve my music by incorporating new sounds and experimenting with different genres. It’s easy to fall into the same cycle.” Yet neither of the two let that happen. The result? A versatile and innovative sound representing the twenty-something life “on the whole scale.” But that’s not to say they don’t have a solid foundation in hip-hop. These collaborators may be experimental and flexible when it comes to genres—branching out into dubstep, house, or electronic—but they both “try to represent hiphop to the best of [their] abilities.” This mixtape isn’t the typical album pushing the money, girls, and hustling lifestyle – it’s conscious. Clay tries to keep all listeners involved, rapping about past relationships and political issues. That doesn’t mean that he doesn’t throw a few lines in about “being young and the fast life” while keeping the songs memorable, catchy, and worth every minute.

Robin BoyWonder’s production bumps with jazz and 60s samples in the background, along with reverberating beats that push the track forward and keep your head bobbing, Clay keeps his audience and intellect in mind and hits the listener with smart and catchy lyrics, influenced by his English Literature education where “every word meant something.” This mixtape is not only conscious, evolving, and intelligent, but eclectic; the duo finds influences in everything from John Mayer to Kanye, with J-Dilla, Premo, the Neptunes, Jay-Z, Outkast, James Brown, and Michael Jackson all sandwiched in between. If anything, their music can never be pegged down to one genre, and for good reason. As Sammy says, “Music is more than just singing, performing and rapping, it’s about connecting and interacting. It just comes from the yearning to entertain.” With the mixtape done, the process seems almost as important as the final product—beats, constructive criticism, ideas, thoughts, flows, edits were all shared exclusively through Facebook, email, and Skype. Not only is the mixtape international, insofar as they are both Canadians, but the production process has been transpacific. Despite the long hours poured into this album, “Louder Than Words” is completely free, equipped with all the tracks, production, and cover art. The duo didn’t want to make it a financial endeavour. “We’re trying to make fans, not money.” And the because it’s free “it has made everything honest, and exactly how we want it to be.” Last words? This mixtape is going to be the Seoul Summer banger. Smooth, laidback beats that keep you hyped and lyrics that catch your attention, sticking in your head for days. Check Sammy Clay out as he keeps evolving and Robin BoyWonder as he keeps the beat bumping. “Shout outs to my fam and crew, to all the fans that supported us and everyone involved in the mixtape. [We] have worked real hard on this project so [we] hope you all enjoy it. Peace.”

This mixtape isn’t the typical album pushing the money, girls, and hustling lifestyle – it’s conscious. Sammy tries to keep all listeners involved, rapping about past relationships and political issues.

NEH

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FILM

& CINEMA

Revenge:

Korean Style!

by christopher j. wheeler

cinema has the ability to purge, expose and depict past wrongs through spectacles that simulate and enact the painful residue of trauma

Alfred Hitchcock once said “Revenge is sweet and not fattening,” a stance shared in Korea as the suspense thriller genre has become synonymous with their industry. Along with the melodrama, revenge films and themes have become all too easy to identify in some of the most famous films to come out of Korea in the last ten years. This apparent sweet tooth has indeed been affected by Korea’s turbulent socio-political history and perhaps a social consciousness persists that past injustices have not been adequately addressed both globally and locally. Art—in this case, cinema—has the ability to purge, expose and depict past wrongs through spectacles that simulate and enact the painful residue of trauma. The notion of a “revenge” film is a sadomasochistic affair in which the spectator is forced to oscillate between identifying with protagonists’ painful circumstances and over-identifying with their vengeful actions. The degree to which one identifies with the hero’s (or anti-hero’s) trauma sets the parameters for how far we are willing to accept the resultant acts of revenge. Once that limit has been breached, an over-identification occurs and the more sadistic pleasures emerge. Blood, gore and horrific imagery are the symbols in films that represent a need to over indulge our lust for revenge in a space that seemingly exists outside normative social spheres. It is this safety of mind and from judgement, from guilt and repentance that functions in the revenge film as desire is dramatically played out to serve the individual, as they exist within a collective social consciousness. But what of the fate of the hero? How does our protagonist progress once the revenge has been served? In revenge films, the answer is almost always undesirable. In Old Boy Oh Dae-su’s journey ends with a forced forgetting, knowing that he will be unable to return to the state he once found himself. Much like the act of walking out of a cinema, reality looms and once the tunnel vision ceases to provide comfort, there is need to equip oneself for what follows of such a cathartic release. Oh Dae-su has his answers: he has taken the bloody trip and what results is an ineptitude to digest events in a manner that would allow him to transcend his trauma. This is where revenge and the 16

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act of seeking knowledge itself is a catalyst to compound suffering, except here the aftermath is without a suitable object to or project suffering onto. And when forgetting or forgiving is not an option, there is only one choice left; the death drive. In Bedevilled, Kim Bok-nam is a pressure cooker that explodes in this psychotraumatic thriller. After years of torment and suffering, she snaps and goes on a short, but ultra-bloody rampage of revenge. Her mind is beyond repair, her existence now limited to eliminating those who she deems responsible for her suffering. She has no regard for herself or her future; it is all here-and-now, and tomorrow holds no value, as the damage has been done. Again, we can see how justice in revenge films is a highly subjective affair. Faith in any objective justice system is abandoned and a new, more self-serving system emerges. This is particularly evident in the 2010 film I Saw the Devil, in which Kim Soo-hyeon discards his title as detective in favor of a personal vendetta against his wife’s murderer. Social justice in contemporary Korean cinema is seen as a failing and inadequate tool for balancing the scales. Even for a man within the justice system, Kim Soo-hyeon’s personal need to deal with matters himself supersedes his previous commitment to social order. Revenge is personal; justice will always remain in the social arena and it is the revenge film that probes the individual’s drive to personally enact it. Na Hong-jin’s The Chaser, shows how social authority can fail even when one attempts to work inside its parameters. Eom Joong-ho was once a detective himself, but now finds himself operating outside their conventions and authoritative norms. When they do become involved, their incompetence and self-imposed restrictions limit their capacity to carry out what Eom Joong-ho would consider appropriate in dealing with the elusive sociopath. The Chaser is an interesting case because there is initially underidentification with our hero. This quest for revenge is more about economics than self-suffering. The justification is not initially self-evident (as in “I Saw the Devil”). Our hero is a vessel in which, over the course of the film, we place justification for his actions. It is only when Eun-ji (Min-ji’s daughter) is made the empathetic object that we begin to really identify with his quest

and set the parameters for Eom Joong-ho’s final confrontation with his target. Through projection, we fill Eom Joong-ho’s “revenge cup” with reasons and justifications that he might not otherwise possess or be aware of. He is, at least initially, guided by a purer desire of which he is not yet conscious.

“

Revenge is sweet and not fattening

”

Although films like I Saw the Devil and The Chaser see the heroes as abandoning their socially-appointed titles and obligations, does that mean that revenge cannot be a social affair? In Park Chan-wook’s Sympathy for Lady Vengeance, revenge takes on a more social dynamic. This time a female protagonist is behind the wheel makes the decision to form her own “revenge society” with its own rules and codes of conduct. Here we can see a stark contrast between masculine and feminine ideals of social responsibility. Unlike Bedevilled where the trauma was localized within an individual, her need for revenge is equalled by Lee Geum-ja’s social consciousness and her subsequent responsibility to it. The act of revenge still exists outside of great authority but she creates a new democratic system designed specifically to deal with the situation at hand. In addition, the spectator is split between an under-identification with our protagonist, whose initial trauma is subverted and displaced by temporal narrative structuring, and an over-identification with the revenge act itself, as one is seduced by the groupthink of the victims and the choices they make. Contemporary Korean cinema has a number of other revenge films that were purposefully not mentioned, as the films discussed here represent my personal favorites of the bunch. The revenge genre is a fascinating one and its relation to Korean culture is an equally intriguing theme worth tackling. images courtesy of hancinema

NEH

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Live

& Learn

The Total Package: Total Arts Festival Cafe Words by sae-hee Burke / photography by michele farley

Tucked away in the uphill streets of Sinchon lies a very special place, a hidden Seoul-mine—an art collective, cultural, energy-pumping (while still relaxed), green, ‘secret’ hide out. When thinking about art or creativity, many venture to the alleys of Hongdae or the displays of Kundae, the classic hotspots. Total Arts Festival (TAF) is a space that independently takes creative art into its own realm, field, and notion. Located outside of Sinchon station, at the top of a hill and cushioned within apartment shadows, discovering this place is similar to a gilded adventure, and it’s just minutes away from the soju-marinated streets of Hongdae. Small restaurants guide you along and once you find TAF, your soul makes a mental map. A little less than a year ago TAF was only running in minds and on paper. The inspiring force behind it is the talented and beautiful Dori Lee and Mr. Sung-min Kim. Dori is wise beyond her years, a lover of art in all its fields (manipulated descriptions and overwhelming definitions). She is an environmentalist, artist, traveler, student (of the world), vegetarian, and a pole dance instructor in-training. On one of these monsoon rain-ridden nights, I found myself in the special TAF sharing a hot coffee with this peaceful, innovative woman. “I want to not be too indie, [this is an] artist collective, easy place for those who love art, having fun, events, workshops, [I want] customers to enjoy their time and have good comfort food and drinks. I want the customers to have fun,” she takes a sip of coffee “...enjoy.” She speaks of this cultural art collective space with both comfort and humility. Dori is the force behind TAF and her expansive mind has clearly touched everything in the cafe. The space has been manipulated into an apartment, her father (a carpenter) constructed the bar, and all the furniture inside is donated from loved ones. “I want to keep it natural and honest.” Dori says. Part of the attraction and energy is the bare honesty of the place. The mix-matched chairs and tables create a beautiful ensemble with the ever-changing artwork on the walls. TAF is putting ardent effort into being as green as possible, which is one of the passions and missions behind this place. Heavily involved in being eco-friendly, Dori’s love of the environment is clear. Right by the door, there are pots of herbs that in the innovative menu. “When we make food, I don’t want to use chemicals, [I want to] keep it natural.” Most of the menu is organic and Dori states that TAF is continuously making efforts to getting everything that way. The novel “comfort” foods TAF offers include items such as a cheesy spinach dip garnished with crushed walnuts, and their signature burger that comes with onion chutney, pumpkin salad mixed with earl gray soaked raisins. Dori is a scientist when it comes to the “drink lab.” She is always thinking up new ideas for drinks that she as a customer would like and feels would appeal to all types of customers. The coffee soju cocktail is a wonderful balance between caffeine and alcohol. The mixture blends so beautifully you feel like you’re drinking a sweet cup of chilled Americano, but with a bonus head rush. Imagine running a marathon and instead of Gatorade, ice cold coffee. The drink goes down smoothly and tastes good enough to have every morning, and night...and as a snack. Dori is remarkably honest about the challenges she faces and has faced through owning TAF. This isn’t her first 18

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project or “baby.” In fact, she has been involved in eco-friendly public relations. She doesn’t coat anything in glitter and gold, not even with turpentine. Being innovative and creating both artistic and comforting dishes for the menu takes about a month to prepare and she documents her struggles with posts like, “creating a system.” Dori took on two good friends to help with this particular challenge and says she’s always learning. “I love to share ideas, but when it comes to business, I feel like I can do [it all] by myself. Normally, [when I’m] deep [into something like] art or teaching [doing things with others] is a hard-to-accept concept [I’m] still learning, so I’m pretty happy.” As an artist, Dori (who majored in ceramics) is accustomed to taking on projects independently. There is also the aspect of doing something truly unique and new in Korea. Seoul is “trending” with “indie” clubs and “art” exhibitions. “In indie culture, [I] feel like something is missing. [I] don’t want to bring a lack of perfection. [I don’t want to leave here] feeling like something is missing.” An art and cultural space as open and progressive as TAF is intimidating. Of all the challenges, creating menus, finances, etc, there is the hope that customers will be on the same page, or even in the same book! “I hope customers can understand a “cultural” space. My motto, in my life, the most important thing is experience. So why not try everything? Customers, do like me, try like me!” With enthusiasm Dori shares her beliefs and being a part of her passion, you are motivated and dare I say, driven. TAF is a place that really aims to promote all forms of art “Life, living is art.” There have been numerous events hosted there that truly aim to create progression and art in all forms. There has already been a magic show, interchanging art displays, and a dating mixer. The art adorning the walls have been knitted-ware, paintings, and much more. Dori urges and supports new work to come and be shared. Her openness to art comes from her passions, and experiences. “After living abroad in Guam, I met and learned a lot about and from other cultures. I don’t want to box anything.” This cafe also has live musicians, and there are rumors circulating about a live nude painting event, eco classes, and maybe pole dancing classes. A green peace fundraiser may also be in the works where artists can donate their talent. TAF cafe is pushing all sorts of barriers and challenging a lot of norms, it is a haven. “My goal is to be exposed to the world, I want to be creative.” Dori cheerily and genuinely explains. Listening to what she has done in her young life, inspiration is impossible to avoid. TAF urges, supports, and embraces art, in all its forms. The heart of this place is fully open to broadcast all art. “I like to create things, the most important thing in life is experience and TAF is a dream. My artwork is my life.” And with that, Dori puts down her coffee and as the empty canvases hang just blocks away on dusty walls, you can’t agree more.

NEH

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Food

& dining

Korean Recipe of the Month: Bindaetteok (빈대떡) “Mung Bean Pancake” The mung bean pancake was originally only eaten by the lower class. Wealthy people were able to purchase and eat meat, while the poor ate bindaetteok. As a result, the dish was referred to as bindaebyeong – which literally means “poor person’s pancake.”

Ingredients

14 oz nok doo (mung beans) 1 onion, thinly sliced ½ carrot, thinly sliced 3 green onions Ground beef ½ cup of kimchi, cut into strips ¼ cup of bean sprouts, chopped 2 tbsp of salt Directions

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Wash the mung beans and soak in cold water for three hours. Once the beans have softened, remove the shell by rubbing the beans with your hands. Wash again. Use a food processor or blender to grind the beans (with some water) to make a fine paste. For perfect results, pre-cook the beef on medium heat. In a bowl, mix together the onion, carrot, beef, green onions, kimchi, bean sprouts and salt. Once mixed, add the bean paste and stir. In a non-stick pan, add vegetable oil. Pour a ladle of the mixture into the pan (3-4 inches in diameter) and cook until brown. Turn only once. Once the pancake is browned, serve with soy sauce and chopped green onion. what is mung bean?

Mung beans (a.k.a. mung, green gram, golden gram) are small green legumes. They are native to India, and are commonly used in oriental cuisine. When sprouted, mung beans are commonly known as bean sprouts. In addition to eating the bean whole, mung beans can be processed to create mung bean starch, which is used to make noodles and dumpling wrappers. 20

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Live

& Learn There is something enticing and mysterious about her—perhaps it’s the fact that she shares her name with the Greek goddess of women; maybe it’s the fact that she used to be a black jack dealer at a casino; whatever it is, she stands out. Her jewelry is bold like her passion for what she does. Hera has found her niche at The Bungalow in Itaewon due to her extensive experience as a cocktail waitress. Whether you want it “shaken, not stirred,” on the rocks, flamed, or just in a tall glass with an umbrella, Hera will work her magic behind the bar. Her shaker becomes a blur: she is master of her craft. As you sway in your bamboo swing and dig your toes into the beach sand, the tea light candles create a relaxed atmosphere reminiscent of an exotic island resort. She recommends that you don’t leave without trying her mojitos or appletinis, while snacking on a fruit platter with your feet in the foot spa.

If you’d like to check her out in person: The Bungalow bar in Itaewon is on the street behind the Hamilton hotel. 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. You can reach them at: 02-793-2344.

Bartender at: The Bungalow – Tropical Lounge in Itaewon Name: Hera Age: 27

Astrological sign: Leo

Chinese Zodiac sign: Ox Blood type sign: B

Interests: The culinary industry

Hobbies: Reading food and beverage books

Likes: Listening to music, especially hip hop and R&B Dislikes: Smoking

What she finds sexy in a man: A muscular body and chiseled biceps

Things you don’t know about her: She has a beautiful butterfly tattoo Her favourite drink: Jagerbomb

Her favourite drink to make: Mojito and Appletini

words & photography by iga motylska

nominate a bartender: editor@nehmagazine.com

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Food

& dining

Brötchen Brings German-Korean Fusion to Gangnam

rötchen, a café in the side streets of Gangnam, brings together two culinary cultures in the form of German-Korean fusion. Owned by a husband and wife duo that have spent time in Germany, Brötchen’s relaxed atmosphere and classic wood décor are only matched by its European-inspired menu. The main floor of the restaurant is a comfortable café for small groups or single visitors seeking a quiet space for work or reflection while the upstairs is a decadent sit down meal area complete with an outdoor patio. Unique to Brötchen is Schmucker Hefe-Weizen: a German beer brewed by Privat-Brauerei Schmucker that is difficult to find in Seoul and the surrounding area. Hefe-Weizen is thick but does not feel as heavy as Guinness. The aroma has a strong wheat, caramel and banana scent, and the flavor has similar undertones with a soft bitter finish. The beer itself is heavily carbonated with a noticeable citric characteristic, golden body and white head. Generally speaking, the beer itself is nothing special but the novelty of being able to order it and have it with one’s meal is certainly a treat for beer connoisseurs. The menu consists of identifiable European dishes, immaculately presented, and as well as distinctive Korean favorites of pastas, pizzas, and salads. The ingredients used in each dish are all organic and noticeably fresh. The “Popeye” pizza (cheese, tomatoes, spinach, steak, olives) has a thin, crisp tortilla-like crust and the smoky flavor of a genuine pizza oven. Though not a pizza in the traditional sense, the combination of the steak, vegetables and crust create a dish perfect for sharing amongst a small group and it provides a healthy alternative to the usual greasy-cheesy delivery pie. The Cipolla spaghetti is a throw back to the conventional spaghetti carbonara. The creamy sauce has a sweet, zesty flavor and its penultimate characteristic in the mouth is its thick texture. Rather than being overly saucy, the cream clings to the pasta and holds the essence and taste of the bacon and onion that accompany the dish. Likewise, the Spaghetti Pomodoro is a pasta dish with tomato sauce and sliced tomatoes. The sauce has a rich spice and the inclusion of the diced tomatoes adds to the quality of the dish. The only downfall of the pasta dishes are the portion: depending on the number of diners in your group, the pasta may not be the best choice for a sharing dish though it could most definitely be filling and satisfying for a singular diner’s meal.

The ingredients used in each dish are all organic and noticeably fresh. The gulasch (as it’s spelt in Germany) is a fiery dish with some definite kick. Served on a bed of white rice, gulasch is a combination of beef, vegetables and potatoes in a tomato based broth. Different from the traditional Slavic goulash, German gulasch is more of a thicker stew than a soup. Brötchen’s gulasch is definitely an acquired taste and an understanding of the differences between the German style gulasch and the Slavic goulash is a necessity before ordering the dish, particularly if the diner is expecting a more Slavic inspired meal. Brötchen is located in Sinsa-dong (588-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu) in Seoul nearby Dosan Park Intersection. At the Volkswagen dealership, turn right and walk 800 meters. Turn left at the Family Mart and Brötchen will be on your left. 22

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Food

& dining

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SoNyun Sanghoi: An Italian Pojangmacha in Seoul Words & photography by Michele Farley

onyun Sanghoi, which translates to “Little Boy’s Market”, is the entrepreneurial venture of Chef Chae Nah Kyoung. Among the multitude of street food vendors or pojanmacha (truck dining system), this street food vendor sets himself apart from any other competition. Instead of serving the usual Korean spicy or fishy variation of fast food to evening patrons of the Konkuk University Station area, Chae offers— not hot dogs, not kebabs—but prepared on the spot inspired dishes of the Italian persuasion – pasta. Yes dear readers, pasta, not ramyeon. From the hours from 9:30 p.m. to 3 a.m. Chef Chae Nah Kyoung prepares a variety of dishes including spaghetti and rigatoni. Sonyun Sanghoi is located on a small side street called “Italian Bistro,” next to Gwangjin Cultural and Art Centre, also known to the locals as the Naru Arts Centre (follow the signs from either exit 5 or exit 4 of Konkuk University Station lines 2 and 7). It’s conveniently located near the Tukseon Resort pool and river-side bicycle path, as well as the CGV in the Lotte Department Store. On the menu you’ll find five varieties of pasta dishes for just KRW 7,000 each: garlic and oil, Cajun style, oil and curry, curry and cream, and just cream. All dishes are served directly from the hot plate with cherry tomatoes, the chef’s own special blend of spices, and of course, Parmesan cheese – Delish!

“We love coming here,” said some clients of the late night eatery, “the chef is there to serve the food himself, and it’s always so delicious.” For those who are not in to pasta, there is an alternate menu. Options this month are Seafood Salad, Vichyssoise, or a Korean-fusion Bulgogi dish called “dok jim,” which was not only mildly spicy ( just the way I like my food) but hardy, flavourful, and created with much love and attention. These monthly specials are a reasonable KRW 9,000. Beverages include Chilean wine of decent quality, beer, soju, and the option of having your own bottle of Whisky waiting for you upon your next visit (customary in many Korean bars). You may also bring your own bottle of wine—a tradition many of us enjoy back home —with a corking fee of KRW 5,000. “We love coming here,” said some clients of the late night eatery, “the chef is there to serve the food himself, and it’s always so delicious.” Unfortunately you cannot make reservations. “We don’t take reservations,” confirms Lee Kon Sang, part-time waiter and my English guide for the evening, “we are busy all the time.” And I can attest that in my short visit, there were no available seats, even though the “improvised” sidewalk terrace accommodates up to sixteen people. Sonyun Sanghoi has been in operation for a little over a year and a half is a delightful discovery that is surely not going out of business soon. So enjoy a nice evening outdoors while the warm weather lasts and pay them a visit away from the hustle and bustle of neighboring streets. NEH

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Food

& dining

MicRobrewevolution in the Land of Morning Calm Is KaBrew truly crafting an alternative to the three-lager-on-tap mediocrity of the industrialized world’s final beer frontier? Words By William Du Plessis / Photography by Joel Zellers

If you’re ever fortunate enough to meet the unassuming Chul Park, you would never guess you’re talking to the godfather of Korea’s next taste revolution. I certainly didn’t. On a peaceful spring morning in Itaewon, I sat across from a man who told me about a beer cruise and a music festival he needed to create a buzz for. Looking back, I’m not sure why he was so concerned – both events sold out before I had the chance to do anything to help. It did get me thinking though. Why is this man’s beer so popular? Was he really giving the 80-90 percent of his clientele who have sojourned to this Land of the Morning Calm a taste of home? Was this quality-ale-craving demographic in fact stimulating a rising tide against beer-Chaebol dominance? Was he truly crafting an alternative to the three-lager-on-tap mediocrity of the industrialized world’s final beer frontier? I simply had to find out more. The second wave of the “Microbrewevolution” was driving onwards. And, it was taking with it increasing numbers of Koreans who were learning how to appreciate the smooth organic goodness of crafted ale. Interculturally crafted beer was truly beginning to liberate palates. Park’s Revolution – The Early Years

Since the first Doosan Group Chaebol lager was concocted around 1952 to emulate American wartime beer, the state of amber refreshment in Korea has hardly been something to write home about. I’m sure anyone who, like me, has experienced the agonizing wake-up call of the chemical brothers Oriental Breweries (OB) and Hite would agree. I am painfully reminded of labored thoughts at dawn about having to seriously find a different taste – a taste of home. What I wouldn’t have given for a smooth, carefully crafted 26

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beer to simply enjoy. One I did not have to regret for price or impending agony. There had to be someone who was brewing good beer in Korea to make refreshment a little less taxing. Mr. Chul Park – who would have expected that he had been busy crafting a quality beer revolution—a “Microbrewevolution”—since the dawn of the millennium? He realized that something had to be done to bring change to a nation where beer consumers could only choose between OB’s rice-lagers and the sub-standard offerings from Hite for affordable refreshment. First Wave of the “Microbrewevolution”

It was a fellow sojourner and university teacher who first brought him to this realization. Back in 2000, Canadian-born Geukdong University history professor, Michael J. Barry, showed Park a newspaper article. It reported on the Korean government’s willingness to relax brewing legislation during the upcoming 2002 Asian Soccer World Cup. Park, in the final stages of handing over his software localization company in a Microsoft buy-out, knew he wanted to play a central role in the first wave of legalized micro-brewing in Korea. He got on the next available flight to Wonza near Munich, where he was schooled in the finer arts of brewing and brewing technology. Park knew he could somehow combine this brew-training with past experience gained as sales engineer for Hyundai during the first five years of his working life. He went on to install his first microbrewery system in Daegu’s Ariana Hotel. After installing thirteen more brewing systems across Korea, Park set up two of his own brew-pubs (one in Asan [2003] and one in

Busan [2004]). From these, he could brew his own beer and distribute Canada’s increasingly popular AlleyKat pale ale. However, the first microbrewed wave in Korea was ebbing. In the heady early days of the Soccer World Cup’s legally crafted ale, more than 150 brewpubs and microbreweries had sprung up all over Korea. By 2009, fewer than thirty remained. Park was forced to close the doors of his Asan brewpub. Bring on The Second Wave

Around this time, Korean legislators decided to join the 21st century and do something that had happened in Japan more than a decade earlier. They were going to allow small brewers to distribute their products at events beyond the confinements of their pubs. Our beer revolutionary was perfectly poised to spark the flame of the quality-crafted-ale taste revolution he had been waiting for. By 2008, Park had completed the building of his own microbrewery. It had become the home of KaBrew and was situated on the crystal waters of Gapyeong County. This location was ideal to ensure the highest standards throughout the brewing process; with water quality being such a vital part in the birthing of any good ale. Park had become the sole importer and distributor for AlleyKat to Korea. With his supply taken care of, Park could start to promote events for the foreign legions who made up the majority of his market. In less than three years, Park and KaBrew would go on to launch more than ten beer cruises (all sold out mere weeks after being announced), reach maximum capacity for the duration of all five beer-and-dance events at Soundholic in Hongdae, and draw capacity crowds to his musicand-ale festivals in the natural beauty of Gapyeong. I went to these events, reported on some, and realized that I was witnessing the start of something truly special. The second wave of the “Microbrewevolution” was driving onwards. And, it was taking with it increasing numbers of Koreans who were learning how to appreciate the smooth organic goodness of crafted ale. Interculturally crafted beer was truly beginning to liberate palates. What of the Third?

It was actually during the second wave that Park met three foreign beerlovers who were destined to help KaBrew move quality Korean-birthed beer onto a new plateau and stimulate the third wave. Canadian publican Dan Vroon, founder of www.homebrew.com, Rob Titley, and award-winning

brewmaster, Bill Miller, had joined the movement. Titley and Miller had started to introduce time-honored beer recipes at the KaBrew brewery. On brewing day, they oversaw the birthing and bedding-in stages of every new ale before leaving brewer, Eungil Lee, and his team to produce keg after keg of golden goodness. I was invited to witness this beer crafting wonder and I must be honest, the results kept me there for longer than I expected. Perhaps the most significant catalyst of KaBrew’s third wave was when Vroon opened his Craftworks Taphouse and Bistro in Itaewon. Park now had a consistent outlet worthy of the quality that was set to captivate the hearts and taste buds of the beer drinking public of Korea. It became obvious that my quest to catch up with the third wave of the Korean “Microbrewevolution” was going to sit me down with Dan Vroon. He still remembers his first meeting with Park when the usually quiet taste revolutionary exclaimed, “You get it! You get what I’m trying to do. You really get that it’s all about quality. This is perfect!” Craftworks soon gained exclusive distribution rights for the six KaBrew beers available on tap. Their Weizen (my personal favorite) is currently the top seller, but, says Vroon, the India Pale Ale (IPA), Pilsner, Golden Ale, Kölsch and Dark Ale are growing in popularity. Park’s association with Craftworks has freed him to follow his passion for brewing creativity and quality. While Vroon concerns himself with brand-building and some aspects of distribution, Park can produce the next catalyst to sustain the growing momentum of beer-consciousness in Korea. He is already mulling over his next event and new exciting tastes. KaBrew has two or three Thai beers in the pipeline, and Park wants his brewers to experiment with exotic flavors such as South African Red Bush tea. He also doesn’t want to rule out the possibility of adding a chocolate ale of some sort to the menu. To coincide with new 2011 Korean brewing legislation and to cope with growing demand, Park will have increased KaBrew’s fermentation capacity to forty thousand liters by the end of July. This growth will allow KaBrew to concentrate on becoming more of an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) for locally-brewed quality ale. In doing so, they will increase awareness that Korea now boasts sustainable quantities of an affordable quality beer. Park and Vroon both hope that legislation will continue changing to allow for wider distribution, the easing of import barriers on brewing ingredients, and perhaps even see KaBrew ale being bottled. Brewing a Miracle for the Han

Having been privy to the process and sampling the ales (some very thoroughly), I am certain that Chul Park and KaBrew’s survival and success to date is grounded in his relentless quest for quality. I am equally certain that his willingness to enlist the support of foreign sojourners has something to do with it. The aptly named “Korean Godfather of Craft Beer,” Park has never shirked back from the challenges of squaring up to the beer Chaebols. And, he will not give up on re-educating the beer palate in the country he loves. Who knows, perhaps the next miracle of the Han will allow beer-lovers and enthusiasts to enjoy affordable quality crafted ale wherever the road leads on this dynamic peninsula.

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Food

& dining

JjampPong Inferno A heaping mass of empty milk cartons are just a microcosm of the Jjamppong’s aftermath. The cardboard display sits in front of the restaurant and intimidates a line of curious and adventure-seeking Koreans, awaiting their chance to try the famously spicy noodles. Words By JJ Velasquez / PhotoGraphy By Jennifer Ross

lank. Another customer, or victim depending on his experience, adds his empty container to the pile of litter – which to be clear will be cleaned up by restaurant management. His face red and eyes teary, he fans his mouth and heads to the market nearby to cool off with a popsicle. The crowd of people waiting to enter react to the exiting Jjamppong survivors; some look visibly anxious about the spicy meal they’re about to eat. Not many people take note of the name; it’s pretty long and not prominently displayed, but Shingil-dong Maeun Jjamppong has been making waves in Seoul for its unbearably hot noodles, most notably its Jjamppong dish. Customers are made well-aware of the restaurant’s many appearances on television on many of Korea’s major networks like MBC and KBS. A TV propped up at the storefront shows looping reruns of the restaurant’s cameos. In these programs, a cast of brave participants have a go at the noodles. Afterward, cast members take on challenges that have them drink the Jjamppong broth like shots of liquor.

Mostly, one can only focus on the lethal combination of spices at this jjampong restaurant in Seoul’s Shingil neighborhood. Jjamppong is among a bevy of Korean noodle dishes, often dubiously called Chinese food. To be sure, the noodle dish is influenced by Chinese cuisine, but its authenticity is questionable mostly because of the dearth of ethnic Chinese running the “Chinese” establishments. Authentic or not, the spicy food lover is sure to find Jjamppong more than agreeable. The base of the dish is a peppery and extra-spicy seafood broth, its flavor further supplemented with vegetables; the main event though are the wheat-flour noodles, cooked to a tender firmness. Mostly, one can only focus on the lethal combination of spices at this Jjamppong restaurant in Seoul’s Shingil neighborhood. The Korean media pervaded Giyeol Lim with glimpses of the spicy noodles which brought him to finally check it out. He’d seen it many times on television, so finally he decided to bring his girlfriend, Areum Park, to the restaurant mostly for the novelty of the experience. He was left begging for a hospital afterward, in a half-joking sort of way. Looking a bit distressed from the meal he just had, he proclaimed he probably wouldn’t be coming back anytime soon. “Just once is enough, I think,” he said, his girlfriend nodding her head in agreement. Before you decide to head to Shingil-dong for some fiery noodle soup, here are a few things to heed: 1. Pack your uyu. Milk, in original or any flavored variety, will help coat your stomach and possibly prevent any acid indigestion. 2. Be prepared to brave the lines. On a typical day, you may be waiting in line for forty minutes to an hour to get in the restaurant. 3. Have an ice-cold post-game refreshment. Once out of the fire and brimstone, head to a nearby store for any of the following: a popsicle, more milk, ice cream, a cold beer. Perhaps you’ll be ready to hit the jjimjilbang and dive head-first into a frigid swimming pool. 28

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Food

& dining

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Gostiniy Dvor: where your stomach will expand like a babushka doll’s Words & Photography By Iga Motylska

f it’s authentic, homemade Russian food you’re after, Gostiniy Dvor is the place to get your fix. I have an Eastern European background, so you can trust I know what I’m talking about. Not only will they tantalize your taste buds with delectable Russian flavors but they have a variety of Russian and Ukrainian vodkas to choose from, as well as four kinds of Russian beers from Baltika breweries in South Korea. Gostiniy Dvor is located in ‘Little Russia’ near Dongdaemun History and Culture Park subway station. The neighborhood is steeped in Russian culture. Here you will hear Russian emanating from open windows and you will see signs written in the Cyrillic alphabet. When you peek into the Russian bakeries and small delicatessens you will find creamy desserts, cottage cheese, salmon fillets and of course Russian vodka. Located on the second floor, a short distance from the subway station, the restaurant resembles my grandmother’s dining room, just slightly larger. It serves as a reminder of my childhood kitchen, the only difference being that there are numer-

leave without trying the flavorsome Borscht – a tomato-base beetroot soup, topped off with a dollop of sour cream and a sprig of parsley. Their Olivie salad reminds me of special occasions at home – a potato salad presented with hardboiled eggs, green peas, pickles, ham and onions with a hint of mayonnaise. And it goes without mentioning that you can also try the Russian version of Kimchi – fermented cabbage that is. As a main course I would very highly recommend their mouthwatering cabbage rolls. This cooked meal consists of delicately folded cabbage leaves with a filling of rice, minced beef and carrots. The tomato sauce does more than add color to this meal which also comes with a side of sour cream. Boy, oh boy, do the Russians love their sour cream. You can also complement your meal with a glass of Kefir. The Russian-style Julienne was also highly rated by my close friend. This meal consists of chopped beef fillet with mushrooms and a helping of rice. The restaurant uses Australian and Korean beef. The salty, raw herrings are topped with raw onions and lemon slices and are served alongside cooked potatoes.

Smiling, red-dressed Russian dolls observe us from a ledge above the bar, as we savor the tastes on offer. ous cooks in the kitchen. The restaurant has an intimate feel about it. Its small size nurtures a personal atmosphere which is reminiscent of anybody’s home. The red paisley wallpaper and the chandeliers which hang overhead give the space a warm glow. Olga, the owner, who is originally from Russia has managed to recreate a genuine Russian environment, down to the paper doilies and floral crockery. Smiling, red-dressed babushka dolls observe us from a ledge above the bar, as we savor the tastes offered. Many foreigners eat Korean food during the week and spoil themselves with western food or edible mementos of their travels on the weekends. Let us be honest, western or foreign restaurants in South Korea can be quite pricey. This, however, is not the case with Gostiniy Dvor where appetizers begin from KRW 3,000 and main courses range from KRW 6,000 to KRW 1,000. The menu whispered scrumptious suggestions to me. I wasn’t going to rock, scissors, paper myself in public, as I often do when I find myself weighing up two options, and so I settled on two main courses, which might I add-very proudly-I managed to finish with very little outside help. To fully appreciate the selection of available meals I propose you order an appetizer and a main course. As far as appetizers are concerned I would suggest rye bread; something which is hard to come by in South Korea. Don’t

From Friday to Sunday, they do not accept debit or credit cards as usual, you will have to pay with cash. When I mentioned that I did not have sufficient cash and wanted to use my debit card I was pleasantly surprised by the sincere hospitality. I thought to myself that perhaps I had misheard what she said due to her Russian accent? Perhaps…, no, it cannot possibly be, I honestly didn’t have that much vodka-did she really offer for me to settle my bill during my next visit? This is not the only reason why in the last five years they have garnered quite a large basis of loyal regulars whose signatures you may find in their guestbook. Gostiniy Dvor is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Please be sure call ahead of time and make reservations for larger groups. Bring along your friends and a hearty appetite.

Directions:

Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Subway Station (Line 5, Exit 7). As you come out of exit 7 turn right and walk a short distance down the alleyway. Turn left at the first, small intersection. You will see the restaurant’s sign a short distance in front of you, above head on your left hand side. Telephone: (02) 2275-7501. NEH

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life

& culture

Tea:

an Infusion of Korean Culture Words & Photography By Iga Motylska

Tea was introduced to Korea from China, around the seventh centuryâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;during the late Silla dynasty. Perhaps due to the fact that it was served on a daily basis it was taken for granted. However, recently there has been a resurgence of interest in the intricate tea ceremony known as Darye. As the interest in tea has grown in recent years so production has increased. This revival has led to the re-emergence of teahouses, which not only impress customers with a wide selection of hot and cold teas and traditional punches, but also allow for a break from the fast-paced Korean lifestyle in an aesthetically pleasing and ambient atmosphere.

lthough in recent years coffee shops can be spotted on almost every corner, teahouses have been making a comeback since the early twentieth century due to the Venerable Hyo Dang, Châ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oi Pom-sul: the celebrated Korean Tea Master. Teas are often served with rice cake (tteok), biscuits, and light snacks, depending on the establishment. It is no surprise why tea is so popular. Not only is it delicious but it also wards off fatigue; reinvigorates the mind and body, and has medicinal purposes as well. Grains, fruits, herbs, and nuts are also used in making tea to add flavor and infuse it with healing properties. Buddhist monks promoted tea for its ability to inspire alertness which aids in the meditation process. Korean Buddhists still believe that tea 32

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evokes four kinds of thoughts, namely: peace, respect, purity, and quietness. Tea is usually served in stoneware or ceramic mugs which reminds one of times gone by. The tea hostess will pour tea from a distance above into a warmed cup in an attempt to create bubbles which are said to create good luck for the drinker. If you have the opportunity you should visit the manicured green tea plantations which are spread across the terraced slopes in the southern regions of South Korea. One of the most wellknown and widely visited tea producing regions are the coastal hills of Boseong in Jeollanam-do which is believed to produce the highest quality tea. Tea is also cultivated on the slopes of Jirisan in Hadong, which is host to the annual Wild Tea Cultural Festival, as well as Mudeung-san in Gwangju and Halla-san on Jeju Island. In autumn the tea bushes are covered in small white flowers which are a sight to behold.

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life

& culture

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It is no surprise why tea is so popular, not only is it delicious but it also wards off fatigue, reinvigorates the body and mind, and has numerous medicinal purposes as well.

otted among the traditional Korean curio shops and art galleries of Insadong you will find numerous teahouses, old and new alike. The information centers on either end of the main street are very helpful in providing information about and directions to teahouses in the nearby vicinity. One of my personal favorites is Moon Bird Does Think of Only the Moon teahouse. With a quirky name such as this you are in for a pleasant surprise. The rustic atmosphere captivates one upon first entrance. The earthy colors evoke tranquility while the natural environment lends itself to relaxation as you hear the water features in the background and sit cross-legged beneath the skylight. This magical teahouse seems to be seeped in antiquity. You will find dry corn cobs and lanterns hanging from the walls and potted plants in each corner. They have a variety of hot and cold teas which start from KRW 6,500. Helpful English translations and pictures are provided. This quaint teahouse suggests a personal touch. Their most popular tea is Omija Cha: a five-flavor berry tea which combines a bouquet of sour, spicy, sweet, salty and bitter flavors. If you are on the main street of Insadong, having come out of the main Ssamziegil Mall entrance, turn right down the first alleyway. Walk to the end of it. The teahouse will be on your left hand side at 60 Gwanhoon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Or contact them at 02-720-6229. However, if you are looking for something more chic, Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Sulloc teahouse is your best option. Although the Insadong branch opened recently (March 2010), this teahouse has finely crafted its trade over the decades. Their green tea plantations have been situated on Jeju Island for more than thirty years. This teahouse epitomizes the modern tea drinking culture in South Korea. It is very spacious and filled to the brim with customers. On the first floor you may find their tea and gift shop where you may purchase tea sets and green tea cosmetics as well as witness the tea roasting process if you are lucky. Their most popular tea blend is Wedding Green Tea: a green tea base with a blend of marigold, rose and corn flower. While on the second floor you will find their teahouse and bakery which offers a variety of cookies, cakes and desserts. Lastly, on the third floor you will find a premium business lounge. I would highly recommend their best selling item on the menu, Freddo Green Tea, which is a refreshing green tea icecream milkshake. Items on their menu begin from KRW 8,000. You may visit them online: www.osulloc.com for further information and find them on the main street in Insa-dong at 170 Gwanhoon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Or contact them at 02-741-5461. One of my personal favorite teas is Daechu cha, it is recommended to aid asthma, anemia or delay the aging process. You can purchase the red dates at your local supermarket and brew it in hot water. You may add some grated ginger, cinnamon, lemon and honey for added taste. When brewing green tea at home ensure that the water is slightly cooled because boiling hot water extracts a bitter taste from the tea leaves. Remember, you can never be too busy to have a cup of refreshing tea. NEH

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film

& cinema

Must-See Korean Films for Foreigners Words BY Christopher J. Wheeler

Are you interested in Korean cinema but don’t know where to start? The following is a short list of films that would give any film enthusiast a good grounding for what Korean cinema has to offer. They include recent and awarding-wining films, films that provide insight into Korea’s past and culture, as well as a couple fantastic genre films that Korea cinema tends to favor.

PEPPERMINT CANDY (1999)

My Sassy GirL (2001)

The host (2006)

by Lee Chang-dong

by Kwak Jae-Yong

by Bong Joon-ho

In 1999, Lee Chang-dong released his second major feature film “Peppermint Candy.” The film is a retrospective journey through Korea’s recent past as we follow a troubled man back through time in order to understand and, more importantly, remember the events that shaped his present life. The film remembers some of the major events that shaped modern day Korea. These include “Kwangju Massacre of May 1980, a regimen of quotidian police interrogation and torture, and the consequences of the 1997 IMF (International Monetary Fund) crisis that was compounded by the country’s lack of a social welfare safety net” (taken from Aaron Han Joon Magnan-Park’s essay “Peppermint Candy: The Will Not to Forget” published in “New Korean Cinema” in 2005). In addition to offering perspective on some of Korea’s recent and significant socio-political history, the film is brilliantly constructed and challenges classic temporal assumptions of narrative structuring and its influence on the textual meaning.

“My Sassy Girl” broke the record for the highest grossing Korean comedy of all time. It was so popular, and its story so compelling, that there was even an American remake of the same name starring Elisha Cuthbert and Jesse Bradford. The Korean original is definitely the one to watch though. This hilarious tale of seemingly mismatched lovers was based on a series of Internet posts that Kim Ho-sik made on his blog detailing his courtship with a highly outgoing and playfully abusive girlfriend. Those posts turned into a novel and then a successful film directed by Kwak Jae-Yong. The film offers comical insight into young relationships in Korea that will have you chuckling throughout. The dynamic relationship between the couple is not only sidesplitting but heartfelt and strangely grounded.

Now this is definitely not my favorite film from Bong Joon-ho, in fact it’s probably my least favorite. And I do believe that speaks more to his impressive filmography than my personal preference. His previous films (such “Memories of Murder” and “Mother”) have been hugely successful and come strongly recommended, but for the purpose of this list “The Host” is particularly noteworthy. This film is not your typical monster movie as it does away with, or at least challenges, a lot of generic expectations of your typical monster film. An America scientist orders his Korean subordinate to pour a shockingly large quantity of chemicals down in the sewer, which results in the creation of a monster that terrorizes the people of Seoul. It’s an ideologically-charged film that strongly criticises the American military’s presence in modern day Korea. There are some other films that contain a similar theme of “foreign entities” corrupting the values and way of life in Korea (Park Chan-wook’s “Thirst” for example) but Bong Joon-ho’s “The Host” is a modern day monster classic that should not be missed.

If you like this, try “Secret Sunshine” (2007, Lee Chang-dong) and “Turning Gate” (2002, Hong Sang-Soo).

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If you like this, try “Cyrano Agency” (2010, Kim Hyeon-seok), “100 Days With Mr Arrogant” (2003, Sin Dong-yeop), and “200 Pound Beauty” (2006, Kim Yong-hwa).

If you like this, try “Thirst” (2009, Park Chanwook), “Mother” (2010, Bong Joon-ho), and “Barking Dogs Never Bite” (2000, Bong Joon-ho).

OLD BOY (2003) by Park Chan-wook

Quentin Tarantino labeled it as one of his favorite films.

Chunhyang (2000)

Well if you haven’t seen or heard of this bloodstained piece of cinema then this should definitely be the first Korean film you see. Famed director Park Chan-wook won a slew of awards with this gruesome revenge thriller, most notable the Grand Prix of the Jury award at the 57th Cannes Film Festival. Its success in Korea and abroad is well-known and even Quentin Tarantino labeled it as one of his favorite films. There are two other films that make up Park Chan-wook’s revenge trilogy. The first, “Sympathy for Mr. Vengeance,” was released back in 2002 and the third film, “Sympathy for Lady Vengeance,” came out after “Old Boy” in 2005. All three are fantastic and can be appreciated in different respects. A quick search online will show you just how divided peoples thoughts are on this. It’s best to watch them all and make up your own mind. The Korea cinema circuit is definitely not short of revenge thrillers, but Park Chan-wook’s “Old Boy” is a classic that will rock you to your core. If you like this, try “Bedevilled” (2009 by Jang Cheol-soo), “I Saw the Devil” (2010 by Kim Ji-woon), “The Chaser” (2008 by Na Hong-jin), and “A Bittersweet Life” (2005 by Kim Ji-woon).

SPRING, SUMMER, FALL, WINTER… and SPRING (2003)

by Im Kwon-taek

J.S.A. (2000) by Park Chan-wook

by Kim Ki-duk

Im Kwon-taek is the father of the Korean film industry. With over a hundred films under his belt and “Chunhyang” is arguably his masterpiece. The story is a Korean classic based on a pansori (Korean traditional music in which a story is sung and emotions are conveyed through the performance of one sorikkun who is accompanied by a drummer) folktale of star-crossed lovers. I don’t simplifying it to this but it could be considered the Korean Romeo and Juliet. “Chunhyang” has been retold in many forms and there have been a number of films that revolved around this classic tale, such as Kim Dae-woo’s 2010 film “The Servant.” Although foreigners might not be able to appreciate some of this period film’s subtlety and culturally richly flowing narrative, it is still one to watch in order to experience one of Korea’s most iconic folktales. If you like this, try “The Servant” (2010 by Kim Dae-woo), “ A Frozen Flower” (2008 by Yoo Ha), and “Seopyeonje” (1993, Im Kwon-taek).

Kim Ki-duk is a prolific and respected filmmaker in Korea and his films seem to exist largely outside the mainstream conventions of Korean cinema. In “Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter…and Spring” Kim Ki-duk brings a touching tale of a Buddhist monk who grows up isolated from society on a small monastery in the middle of lake. It’s a sedate and visually rich journey of a young monk discovering himself and the world around him. It contains strong Buddhist themes of the cycle of life and renewal and subverts dialogue in favor of beautiful composition and symbolic action. I chose this film because Buddhism is one of the major religions in Korea and I felt that it would be quite different to what most Western audiences would be used to in a film. Its slow paced, yet powerful imagery is intoxicating and story itself captures what it means to be human in the most fundamental and spiritual sense. If you like this, try “Aje Aje Bara Aje” (1989, Im Kwon-taek), “3 Iron” (2004, Kim Ki-duk), and “Poetry” (2010, Lee Chane-dong).

This was a landmark film that put Park Chanwook on the path to greatness. In a time where tensions along the Korea’s DMZ was high, Park Chan-wook stepped up and challenged the social perceptions of the North and its people with this very powerful tale of cross-border friendship. Many people are aware of the horrors that took place during the Korean War that left Korea a divided country. Park Chan-wook’s message of a brotherhood that traverses political agendas comes through beautifully in this tragic film. Many foreigners come to Korea each year and visit the infamous 250-kilometers barrier that splits Korea in half but watching this film before or after you make that trip might challenge your own perceptions of this tragic divide. If you like this, try “Taegukgi” (2004, Kang Jegyu), “Friend” (2001, Kwak Gyeong-taek), “Secret Reunion” (2010, Jang Hoon), and “71-Into the Fire” (2009, Lee Jae-han).

The above films are not ranked and are also not necessarily my pick for the Korea’s cream of the crop, but they are a decent starting point for anyone who is not familiar with Korea and its incredible film industry. images courtesy of google images.

NEH

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art

& fashion The Alliance Between

Fashion and Art It’s no surprise that fashion and art can’t exist without each other. The following are Seoul’s best offerings of both shopping and art at the same time. Words & photography by adel kim

Collaboration as a Trend

Collaboration is such a popular word these days. You can hear it everywhere around us, especially while shopping. Famous fashion brands start collaborations in search of fresh ideas and consumer’s attention; many of us remember Stella McCartney’s collection for Adidas or Lanvin’s collection for H&M. What’s even more interesting is that fashion has begun to collaborate with major artists. For example, Japanese pop-artist Takashi Murakami created pattern designs for Louis Vuitton bags; Damien Hurst took part in editing a special collection for them. Yet this collaboration encompasses so much more. It has become the norm in big cities to come across gallery spaces in a high-end fashion store. Korea is amongst the players taking part in this trend too, so we can even find it not only in Seoul, but in Busan, Gwangju, etc. The purpose of store galleries is to support domestic and/or young artists, on one hand, and to provide the chance for Korean citizens to see world-known artist’s masterpieces on the other. Perks for the public include no entrance fee and show exhibitions worth seeing. What’s the secret? Art and fashion tend to go hand-in-hand—sometimes it’s impossible to divide which-is-what. It seems very natural to include some part of fashion in an art project and vice versa. Currently they are both tied to commerce. By donating to art development, fashion becomes more respected, attracts more visitors to stores, and makes higher sales. It’s a ‘win-win’ strategy. So what can we visit in Seoul? The places most worthy of introduction to our public are Atelier Hermes, Comme des Garcons Six Gallery, Shinsegae and Lotte Department stores. Their commonality: All of them don’t make huge ads campaigns for their events, so one wouldn’t even know about it except when reading specialized magazines (typically in Korean) or just happen to visit the store. It gives visitors the feeling that this place is exclusive and not for everybody, but makes finding it much more complicated. We shouldn’t lose this great opportunity to have this cultural experience. Atelier Hermes

The oldest Seoul fashion-art space is the Atelier Hermes situated in Sinsa nearby Dosan Park. The brand is so well-known amongst artistic circles that it doesn’t seem to need any introduction. It began as a harness workshop in the first part of nineteenth century; now this French brand is amongst one of the most powerful high fashion houses. It’s especially famous for legendary ladies hand bags and silk scarves called “carre.” All 38

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fashionistas around the world do not mind paying the fantastical prices and standing in line just to get Hermes’ accessories. But this famous luxury brand doesn’t concentrate only on fashion, ads and sales. There are four Hermes’ stores in the world (Paris, NY, Tokyo, and Seoul) all of which include a museum, gallery and café. The main idea was to make not only commercial but leisure space and to create store as an unique integrated cultural product. At the B1 floor of Maison Hermes Dosan Park there’s the Promenade Hermes Museum. This is a small but very special space. The museum was created to provide a tour to the history of the brand and exhibit Hermes’ products made from the brand’s beginnings ‘til now. The singular design project was created by Hermes president’s wife, specifically reflecting Korea’s face, using bamboo as a main symbol. Resulting showcases looks like bamboo trees decorated by small leather strips. The store gallery is situated on the third floor. It was opened about 10 years ago. In the creation of the gallery, the main goal was to support contemporary art both international and Korean. They don’t have some special concept or preferences in artist’s choice, but the main intent for artist’s works is to conform to quality level. That’s why at the exhibition hall here you can only see high-ranked art. From the artist’s perspective, getting an invitation from Hermes gallery is a big milestone for an artist and can be considered a professional success. The gallery space reconstructs for each exhibition and looks new at each new opening. This year they had an exhibition of Sora Kim “Don’t ask me why” and Isaac Julien’s “Ten Thousand Waves,” and August 9th brings the Hermes Foundation Missulsang Award event. This annual exhibition started in 2000 and was established to contribute to the development of Korean art and culture. The foundation was the first foreign organization to provide such support. So far, it has awarded many artists, such as Kim Beom, Bahc Yi-so, Suh Do-ho, and many more illustrious noteworthies. Award finalists of this year are Kim Sang-Don, Choi Won-Jun and Part-time Suite group. The winner chosen by jury will get a prize. The exhibition runs until October 4th. Address: Maison Hermes Dosan Park, 630-26 Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. Opening hours: 11 a.m. – 6 p.m. (closed on Wednesday) Telephone: 82-2-544-7722

NEH

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art

& fashion

Bury Me In Bows and Ribbon There are many tastes that are acquired in South Korea. One of those tastes is for fashion. Words By Justin Walden / Photography by Lyndsie Coon

When we decide to pick up our lives and move to South Korea, we know it’s going to come with some changes. The food will be different. We’ll trade the burritos, the fry ups, the poutine for galbi, kimchi jiggae, and gamjatang. The way we get around will be different. We’ll give up our cars and cram one by one onto a bus or subway car until it screams for mercy. We’ll say farewell to clean air, and suck into our lungs yellow dust from China, bus exhaust and the always wonderful stench of raw sewage. We’ll do all these things and for the most part we’ll love it. Sure, we’ll bitch now and then but it’s all part of the process, the settling in. Most of us know before coming to Korea that we’re going to have to expect changes but there’s one little thing we neglect to think about: What will we wear?

To start, sizes here run smaller than what we’re used to back at home. For some of us this isn’t an issue. Certain expats will be small enough to get into the clothes offered here. I’m one of these lucky few and have no problem finding stuff that fits me. Although I’ve gone from the medium I was back at home to now buying shirts in large or extra-large. Others will be on the opposite end of the catwalk. They’ll wriggle and squeeze as hard as they can only to come out of the dressing room in a skintight shirt with their midriff showing. For a woman, the tight and short look might be fashionable, but a guy couldn’t walk around town and have the locals discuss his weird outtie of a bellybutton and mangy treasure trail. Once we manage to find something that fits us we then have to consider the style. There are definitely some things that just don’t cross over the fashion divide between east and west. A couple of weeks ago, I saw a drawing online that touched on the topic of Korean fashion and our place in it. It was a man dressed in skinny jeans, Chelsea boots, and a T-shirt just down to his waist line. His hair was well-groomed and hanging just slightly over his eyes while he gave a pouty look. On the one side of the drawing was a sea of “Westerners” calling out “pussy” and laughing at what he was wearing. The other side featured Koreans telling him how sexy and masculine he looked. This image visualized what I’d been thinking about when it comes to Korean style. What is it about Korean fashion that we just can’t get over? Where are our boundaries? Often we’ll hit that breaking point much sooner than we would back home. We’ll wear some of the clothes here but completely draw the line at others. How far are we willing to go to fit into the Korean fashion culture? “What I like the most about the clothing in Korea is that it is extremely well-tailored - it is very form fitting and flattering.” Those are the words of Nick, a native of Colorado. The fact that you can find so many boutiques in Korea makes it much easier to find something that looks “tailor fitted.” This is a great option if you have the frame for the clothes. Although, Most of the shops don’t offer a wide selection as Nick stated, “I do like the clothes but the styles tend to look the same. There isn’t much variety here.” Ray, a twenty-something from Rhode Island, feels similar. Hesitant at first to get into the Korean fashion, he was persuaded one day to try on some clothes– and hasn’t looked back. 40

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“The people that work there are my stylists.” Ray says, when speaking about the clerks of his three main boutiques. “It’s very diffeent from what I wore before I came here and I’d have to think about wearing some of the stuff I’ve acquired here back home but I feel that it’s more me and when I go home I’ll probably continue to buy clothes from Korean websites.” I asked if dating a Korean girl had any influence on his style, he admitted that it did. “Victoria definitely influences my fashion,” he said, “if I hadn’t met her, I think my style would be similar to what I wear now because of the people who work in the stores I buy from. They always pick out great stuff for me.” Victoria had her own thoughts about Westerners dressed in the popular Korean styles, “I think it looks really great. It doesn’t look strange at all. I think that when Western people dress up in Korean clothes it looks fabulous.” Others are willing to not just dress in the Korean fashion but to test their boundaries. “I bought a black turtle neck with puffy sleeves and pearls sewn on the shoulders.” Alison, an English teacher from Canada, told me about her most daring purchase. I asked her why she decided to try something so different from her casual style and she told me, “I just wanted to try a Korean look.” Being somewhere new gives us a chance to reinvent our style. Whether it’s Alison and her puffy and pearly turtle neck or Nick who admitted that he’s flirting with the idea of getting a perm. “I am considering getting a perm sometime as an experiment. This is something I would never do in America, because perms are 1) expensive, and 2) a ‘girl’ thing. Out here, however, guys get perms all the time.” A lot of us though, will never go that far. We’ll stick with the stores that offer a more recognizable style. Shops like UniQlo, Forever 21, and H&M are relatively safe bets for expats who want clothes that are a little less dressy and more relaxed. These stores provide us with everyday clothing that we can feel comfortable in. If you look closely though, the Korean style can still be seen on some of the tighter cuts of pants and racks of pastel colored shirts but it’s a very minimal change compared to that of the boutiques. A lot of what you find in these big

chain stores is similar to what we’ll find back home. Whether or not we’d wear it back home is one thing but when it’s offered up next to some of the more radical clothing options in Korea, most expats will take the more familiar road. But there is a darker side to this story. For many expats the idea of becoming completely immersed in Korean fashion is about as comfortable as a nude massage from a fellow patron of your local jjimjilbang. The shiny fabrics, sparkled bows, popped collars, and nut clutching pants are just too far gone for some of us. Ask most guys what they don’t like about the fashion and you’re likely to hear the word effeminate pop from their mouths. The reality of creams and moisturizer to complement the well-manicured look of tight pants and flashy shirts is just a bit too much for some. The effeminate claim doesn’t just pertain to clothing. The attitude here towards appearance can seem bizarre to many guys. Just take the elevator on any weekend night with some Korean man in his mid-20s and see how quickly he turns to the mirror and checks his hair. Joe, a bearded and bushy haired woodsman from the Pacific Northwest of America, talked about Korean men constantly grooming and scoping themselves out in the bathroom mirrors. It’s a practice that many expat men find strange and can’t see themselves doing. It’s manly here to check yourself out, to make sure your hair and outfit look perfect, whereas back home it’s seen more masculine not to think about it too much. It’s not that men back home don’t take care of their appearance– it just isn’t as much of a processed look as you see on the streets of Korea.

It’s manly here to check yourself out, to make sure your hair and outfit look perfect, whereas back home it’s seen more masculine not to think about it too much. Is it that the men here are more comfortable with their femininity? I don’t think so. I think this is what they know. In many Asian cultures it’s not encouraged to rock the boat, to be an individual. It’s better to be a part of the scene and not stand out. The attitudes towards lifestyle and society differ from east to west and that can have an effect on the clothing we wear. Women have their own obstacles as well. No doubt they’ve been offered horrendous dresses and tops that look like a recycled parachute with tea cozies hanging from the neck and sleeves. Boutiques are littered with clothes featuring bows, ribbons, lace, and jewels thrown on in any which way. It’s as if somebody picked up a handful of stuff off the floor of a fabric store and heaved it at an article of clothing. If it sticks, it sells. If it falls back to the floor, it’ll be put on something else. But there is one item of clothing that puzzles Western women more than any other. The skirt. Namely the length. It’s very common to walk up the stairs of the subway only to look up and see the purse of a young Korean woman placed very precisely behind her skirt. The reason being, you’d know her as well as the family doctor if it wasn’t. Many expat women find it hard to get used to the fact that the skirts can be so short but the sight of a shoulder blade can generate “dirty looks” as Jen, a native of Manchester put it. “I’ve had to buy all new summer tops, as the ones I brought with me show too much shoulder or cleavage.” she told me while Alison agreed, “It’s okay to wear ultra-short skirts and dresses, but not appropriate for women to show their shoulders or chest area.” Some of us are forced into buying new clothes. What we thought of as modest and casual can be seen as inappropriate or too sexy here, and things we’d find improper back home just become everyday wear. “A person’s style changes a lot based on their surroundings.” a friend told me. I think that’s true. Many of us change during our time spent in Korea. It’s impossible not to. We come to a foreign land that many of us don’t know much about before moving here. We mingle with people from all around the world and develop new friends for life, we pick up new hobbies and interests, ways to spend our days and nights. We develop new tastes for food, film, and even change the way we talk. So why not fashion? The fact is, your style probably has changed, even if it’s just in the tiniest bit. Whether it’s by choice or necessity, the only decision to make is how much you like your revised style. Will you wear it back home and brave whatever scorn is thrown your way from friends who knew you before? Or will you leave it all behind until it becomes some distant memory, swallowed up by the yellow dust? NEH

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Life

& culture The First Annual Summer Short Fiction Contest

This past month NEH Magazine held its First Annual Summer Short Fiction Contest. The winning submission, “The Cricketer” by Rory Gunn, received a 50,000 won gift voucher to Craftworks Taphouse and is featured below.

The Cricketer by Rory Gunn Govinda hid himself from view behind a tree. There were many trees on the fringe of the building site. They obscured it slightly from the view from the high-rise apartments that loomed over it. Govinda had chosen the most slender tree to hide behind. His small frame could almost be concealed behind it. His hands held the trunk like he would fall. His fingers fumbled the grooves in bark. His young, boned shoulders could just be seen on either side of the tree. Every now and again, he would carefully move a single eye out from one side of the trunk. He could hear his heart beating. He could feel his palms sweating. He was suddenly aware of the blood rushing around underneath those beaten, ill-fitting clothes he found across the street. He looked down at the plastic bags and plastic cups and plastic packets around his feet. He heard the boys shouting and looked up. He watched the next boy stand up to the wicket. Govinda remembered that this boy was left handed. Every time he had seen the boy, he had hit a six beyond the trees where he stood, hiding weakly. He peeked out and watched the tall boy swagger up to the wicket. Four broken breeze blocks stacked high. His steps were slow, but long and smooth. He had a hole in each leg of his browning jeans. His dusted knees would spike out with each of those long, smooth steps. He wore a faded soccer shirt which hung from his shoulders and flashed the bottom of his flat stomach. The glued and nailed bat dipped and rocked, slung across his shoulder like a sword. He pointed vaguely towards the trees on the right side of the field where Govinda hid, without looking from the ground in front of him. Some of the older boys started to laugh at his old swaggering confidence. Two of the younger players frantically ran towards Govinda’s tree. He quickly cowered behind it. He poked a single eye out. As the boy took to the wicket, Govinda studied the broad smiles on the children’s faces. Their half-moon smiles shone against their sunned skin. Their heads wobbled side to side as they exchanged tactics, pointing and shouting towards the younger boys, arranging them like chess pieces. The wide fielders stood idly, hands pressed onto their thrust forward hips as they looked around. The bowler had started pacing to his starting block. He moved a little quicker than the batter. The wind blew a sharp gust and whipped the dust into the air between them. They stood twenty long, slow paces from one another, staring. Studying one another’s eyes through the dust. The bowler was around the same age as the batter but a little shorter. He wiped his slightly darkened upper lip. The batter stretched his lower lip over his soft, young moustache. The beads of sweat formed and dripped from his forehead, sliding around his fixed stare. He winked at the bowler, and smiled. As he struck the ball into the blue sky, the dust burst up from beneath him. The red tennis ball stood out against the deep blue. They watched it float gently. As the ball stopped rising and began to fall, his teammates began to shout and whoop. Govinda just watched the sky. He took a deep breath and closed his eyes tightly. He turned and started to run. He ran towards the busy road. He could hear the steps of the younger pawns behind him. But he ran faster. He kept a half eye on the oncoming traffic, listening for the beeps. But he watched closely as the ball bounced and rolled into the ditch on the other side. A rickshaw slammed on its breaks as Govinda shot in front of it. “You little bastard! Watch the road!” the fat driver shouted, beeping the horn again. Govinda dived into the ditch and fished the ball out of the filthy water. He looked back. The younger boys had stopped by his tree. He watched them for a moment through the blur of passing traffic. They stood confused as this boy emerged from the ditch with their ball. Govinda glanced both ways, and ran back across the road. “Hey! Give us our ball back!” shouted one boy as Govinda sprinted towards them. He kept running, he ran past them and out onto the field. Blood burst around every part of his body as he felt the rough sand under his soft, bare feet. The heat from the pulsing Delhi sun had warmed the sand. It scorched his soles. But he kept running. He heard the footsteps behind him get quiet-

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er. He gradually slowed, arced his arm and threw the ball towards the wicket as hard as he could. The ball bounced around ten feet short of the target. The older boys turned around as the ball bounced again. They saw a strange little boy standing on the field, panting. He was looking around at their faces. They watched as their pawns moved closer and closer to him. He was a skinny little boy. His trousers were damp up to the knees and his clothes were worn and full of holes. The batter looked to his friends and pointed the bat towards Govinda. “Who’s he?” he asked behind him. The boys shrugged. “He can throw pretty well.” Govinda’s heart skipped a little. He stopped his smile from breaking through. “Who are you?” Govinda looked down at his feet, burning in the sand. “Anit” he replied. “Who’s your father?” the boy asked. “He’s called Anit, too.” The younger boys caught up with him. They surrounded Govinda and started to eye him up and down. Govinda looked through them, towards the older boy with the bat. “I don’t know him. You live in the Jhugghi?” Govinda nodded. He looked at the slum in the distance. The dark, rumbling slum. This was the closest he had ever been to the Jhuggi Jhompdi. “How come we don’t know you?” shouted the boy, swinging his bat slowly across the field, passing each of his friends. “We just moved here. Two days ago. From Orcha.” The boy turned to his friends behind him and gave a light shrug. He turned and walked back to the wicket. Raising the bat high in the air, he pointed towards Govinda’s tree. “You’re wide right. This one’s for you.” Govinda knew that he was just another pair of legs to chase his sixes. But he didn’t care. He smiled and ran back towards the tree. ***

Nobody kept score. The game would keep going until the sun called it a night. Until they couldn’t possibly play another game. They would start again at sunrise. Govinda chased every ball that came close to him and threw them back to where they came from. His arms were numb. His soles burned. His lips cracked. His cheeks ached from smiling so much. But he didn’t feel a thing. An excitement he never knew existed pushed that pain down. But Govinda couldn’t stop the little worries creeping up into his mind and growing every second. At 3:35, he would have to stop playing. Stop having fun. Stop having friends. Stop being Anit. Stop being who he wanted to be, and start being who he was told to be. Govinda had been watched the gaps between the trees all afternoon. He watched the traffic stream past. He watched for a bus. A big yellow bus making its way towards its school. He worried that he wouldn’t see it pass. That it would leave him there. Leave him there after the cricket finished and the night caved in. He wanted to stay. But he couldn’t. Govinda thought that it was about three o’clock. But he wasn’t sure. The older boy stepped up to bat. He still had that swagger, but it was weary. Worn by the heat and runs back and forth, back and forth. Stuck between two points. But he still wore that smile as he pointed the bat at Govinda. “Another one for you Anit, my friend!” he shouted. Govinda smiled and looked over his shoulder. Thick, thirsty shrubs lay behind him. He felt his watch ticking in his pocket. Louder than his heart, but slower. The drawling ticks tried to pull at his smile. The boy struck the ball high into the sky. The ball was harder to see against the deepening blue of the sky. But Govinda stood, eyes fixed as it flew overhead and landed deep into the sharp shrubs. He turned and ran towards them. Wading in, he glanced over his shoulder. The boys were celebrating. This time, no one followed him. He stuffed his hand into his pocket. He They played for hours under the burning sun that day.

NEH Magazine would like to thank all the writers who submitted works: Kristin Day, Trevor Scott Carlson, Elaine Ramirez, Gray Carlisle, Paul Stafford, Larissa Focke, Monique Simpson

A special honorable mention goes to Jae Woo Jang, a 15-year-old writer currently taking creative writing courses at Harvard University Extension School who submitted the piece, “Bicycle.” Please watch for these stories to appear in future issues on NEH. Thank you again to all of these talented writers.

pulled out his gold watch and checked the time. 3:26. His heart sank. He didn’t have time for anymore. He knew that he had to leave. Govinda felt a tear run from his eye and mix with the dirt he had rubbed on his face that morning. He saw the ball through the shrubs about two feet in front of him. He bent down and pushed his hand through. His fingers wrapped around the worn old ball. As he pulled it back out he felt the thorns tear at the skin on the back of his hand. As he looked at his hand he knew that he would have to explain those cuts at the dinner table that night. ***

memorizing their smiles to hold back his tears. “Why?” replied the bowler. He tossed the ball Govinda threw into the air, catching it again. “I have to meet my father at the market.” Govinda looked back at his feet. They had stopped hurting now. The dirt was embedded beneath his well cut “I have to go” shouted Govinda,

nails. He curled his toes and gripped the hot, harsh sand. “Okay. Well, same time tomorrow” said the batter with a smile, “You’re a pretty good player.” Govinda let a single tear fall and land on his feet. It mixed with the dirt he had ran onto them all day. He looked back up at group of slum children, and wiped his face gently. None of them noticed. “Yeah. Tomorrow,” he replied softly. The lump in his throat grew with every tick and tock he felt in his pocket. He turned and walked away, back towards his tree. No footsteps followed him. He reached his weak hiding place and lifted up the old, torn plastic bags. He found his clean bag sitting where he left it. Through the thin white plastic he could see his school uniform, his bag and the bottle of water he had packed to clean himself off with. He heard the game start again. The laughs and cheers swept in from behind him. Govinda walked across the road and started to sob. Illustration by Leah Hoelscher

NEH

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photo courtesy of celebs101.com

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Dustin Wilshire

Winehouse, the 27 Club and Addiction Recently, singer Amy Winehouse passed away.

Some have expressed their condolences and R.I.P.s. Others have sarcastically played dumb to the idea that she may have passed away at the hands of her vices, while others have taken the opposite approach of name calling and accusation hurling. (However obvious it may appear given her documented personal problems, as this piece goes to print, her cause of death is still “unexplained” and “unfounded,” and there were no drugs found in her North London home.) Many tributes have positively highlighted her successful singing career. They compare her to the great soul singers of the past and recount the hip-hop-meets-punk-meets ‘60s soul attire and attitude that became her trademark, how she’d been branded. They recap her reaction to landing a Grammy and reflect on how it’s a shame she wasn’t able to release more recorded material. As expected in a high profile situation like this, pertaining to someone who’s no stranger to media scrutiny for past indiscretions, other tributes have been rather negative, bordering on tasteless. Days after she passed, I saw a Facebook photo album titled “Amy Winehouse’s Last Binge,” where two sisters from Canada reenacted the course of events they assume led to the singer’s last breath. Dressed in white wife beater tops and sporting the winged, cat-eye makeup she was known for, the photos also reveal Winehouse-esque knock-off tattoos drawn in pink marker displaying the words “slut” and “slag” temporarily adorned on their arms. The sequence of 32 pictures takes the viewer through a binge drinking session leading up to passing out on a fire escape, and ultimately, her passing. Nevertheless how you want to pay your tribute or remembrance (respectful or not) is your choice. Personally, I’ve always appreciated her music, even when it wasn’t cool to be a fan, and have accepted the flack flung in my direction from others for admitting it. That however, is not what I am interested in writing about. There are two things I find interesting about the Winehouse saga:

1) What’s up with the age 27? 2) I believe some people make better music when they are up against addiction. Winehouse is the newest member of the 27 Club, aka Curse of 27. In my younger, classic rock influenced years (‘60s and ‘70s classic rock, not the ‘80s and ‘90s stuff that some consider classic now), fellow stoners and I would discuss this phenomenon amidst incense smoke and lava lamps. Listening to the hot CD of the moment, or dusting of an LP when feeling nostalgic, we’d ponder the anomaly: Rock icons Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and Jim Morrison (not to mention Brian Jones for the Stones fans and “Pigpen” McKernan for you Deadheads): how could you all have died at the age of 27? It was during this period that one of our own joined the club. The difference this time? Kurt Cobain took his own life. It’s believed that Joplin died of a heroin overdose. Hendrix suffocated on his own vomit after chasing pills with booze. Morrison of heart failure. In the book Heavier than Heaven (which is a must-have for any Nirvana enthusiast; I have read it twice), Cobain’s sister mentions that he joked about joining the club as a child. With that in mind, does his selfadministered cause of death change your thoughts on him compared to the others on this list? Does it cloud the mystery surrounding this fraternity of musicians? Is it possible that inclusion in this exclusive club, obviously coupled with some pretty extreme personal problems, led to him sticking a shotgun in his mouth? Who’s to say the others didn’t off themselves as well, just in a less-conspicuous manner? As we wait for the results on Winehouse’s cause of death, one can’t help but wonder the circumstances that lead to her demise and consummate inclusion in this illustrious group of influential musicians. Side note: Something else I saw on Facebook following the Winehouse death was a reference to the members of the 27 Club having been murdered by the Illuminati, followed by the statement, “THIS IS NOT A COINCIDENCE.” Seems reasonable to me.

To tackle the second statement, a quick brainstorm will shed light on why so many musicians end up with substance abuse problems. Performance anxiety, for example. The need to take the edge off before stepping on stage to entertain a crowd of paying fanatics has been well documented. Think about it. How much more comfortable are you in the Noraebang (karaoke room) after you’ve been drinking? Don’t pretend you don’t know what I’m talking about. Then there’s the money. What else are you supposed to do when your last tour results in a grip of merchandising cash and an endless supply of groupies? Snort coke off a stripper’s ass, stay up for weeks on end and count the days until the album drops – that’s what. Sex, Drugs and Rock n’ Roll. It all goes hand in hand. I’d go so far as to say it’s expected. I don’t condone substance abuse and wouldn’t wish addictive, unhealthy and destructive behaviors upon anyone. However, you can’t deny the fact that some musicians make amazing music when faced with addiction. To even get into listing them feels absurd. How could you even do it? Once you start, you can’t only include some of the greats and leave certain others out. You would have to keep adding to it, and adding to it. The vast quantity of notable artists would simply take too much space. To take this idea a step further, one might even say that some artists have made better music using, than not using. This list too may be immense, but a quick few come to mind. Anyone who prefers “Living On The Edge” Aerosmith to the “Train Kept a Rollin” version of the early ‘70s needs to have their head examined. The new version of what once was a blues based rock n’ roll juggernaut makes me want to vomit the cotton candy and lollipops I was forced to consume while giving it a listen. Consider the acid-jazz, sample heavy, beatnik electro-experimentalism genius of Soul Coughing. Drugs tore the band apart. But now we’re left with an optimistic Mike Doughty. I heard him chastising fans in the year 2000 at a show at Berbatti’s Pan in Portland for smoking weed. Don’t get me wrong. I love him, a lot, and have seen him perform solo at least eight times. But I can’t do it anymore. His first solo outings, selling homemade “Skittish” CD’s out of a guitar case, still held up. But the recent music isn’t cutting it. As horrible as it may sound, a sunny Doughty doesn’t interest me. Good for him and his lifestyle, but that doesn’t mean I have to spend money on it. “Golden Delicious”, well, it tastes like shit. I’m waiting for the new electronic music he’s been promising, maybe that will turn my frown upside down. This brings me to one last idea: can we ponder the phrase performance enhancing drugs? Term is typically reserved for athletes using substances to get bigger, faster and stronger, resulting in a more dominating performance on the playing field. Why not also use it when referring to musicians who crank out the hits while saddled with addiction? Try to overlook that drugs and alcohol can impair your responses, limiting your physical abilities. That’s too logical. I’m not concerned with the mechanics required to pull off a technical masterpiece. I’m talking about the heartfelt music from your soul, that can only come from a place of loneliness and despair. For the people creating extraordinary music from that dark place, how they arrived there was often addiction. All this is not to say that good music can’t be composed in sobriety. Unfortunately, because of the negative effects of drug abuse, we were never able to see what might have been produced by a Lane Staley, Bradley Nowell or Kurt Cobain practicing self restraint (can you tell when I grew up?). To go along with that, obviously there are artists who have recovered, or who never started using, who make great music. Remember the “straight edge” movement? Come on though, Winehouse just died. What else am I supposed to write about?

NEH

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2011

amy winehouse Born: September 14, 1983 died: July 23, 2011

famE: Singer-songwriter in genres including R&B, Soul and

Jazz. In 2006, Winehouse became the first British female to win five Grammys. Cause of death: Undetermined

Cobain’s sister mentions that he joked about joining the club as a child. With that in mind, does his self-administered cause of death change your thoughts on him compared to the others on this list?

1971

jim morrison Born: December 8, 1943 died: July 3, 1971

famE: The lead singer of the band The Doors. This American singer-songwriter was also known for his poetry. Cause of death: Drug overdose

1994 kurt Cobain Born: February 20, 1967 died: April 5, 1994

famE: The lead singer and guitarist for Nirvana. Cobain founded Nirvana in 1987 with bass player Krist Novoselic. Cause of death: Suicide

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I don’t condone substance abuse… You can’t, however, deny the fact that some musicians make amazing music when faced with addiction.

1970

Jimi hendrix Born: November 27, 1942

September 18, 1970 Considered to be one of the best electrical guitarists in history. Hendrix was inducted into the US Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1992 and has received countless other rock music awards. Cause of death: Asphyxiation died:

famE:

janis joplin Born: January 19, 1943 died: October 4, 1970

An American solo artist and lead singer of Big Brother and the Holding Company. Cause of death: Drug overdose famE:

Rock icons Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and Jim Morrison (not to mention Brian Jones for the Stones fans and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pigpenâ&#x20AC;? McKernan for you Deadheads): how could you all have died at the age of 27?

1969 Brian jones Born: February 28, 1942 died: July 3, 1969

famE: An English musician-

guitarist and one of the founding members of The Rolling Stones. Cause of death: Drowning

1938

google images

Robert johnson Born: May 8, 1911

died: August 16, 1938

famE: A master of the blues, often referred to as one

of the greatest and most important blues singers in music history. Cause of death: Suspected poisoning NEH

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& opinion Ryan Rutherford

Being Good Sans Dieu illustration by kelsey SMITH

There are few myths peddled by the apologists for religion more pernicious than the notion that people are only capable of being moral if their actions are overseen and guided by some all-knowing, all-powerful deity. This is an idea so deeply ingrained that even many atheists and secularists, who themselves see no reason to adhere by religious dictates, argue that society is better served if the population at large follow some divinely inspired code of conduct. Not only is the premise that we can’t be good without god fundamentally fallacious, but it is also deeply insulting to the human race. The monopoly on righteousness long claimed by religious votaries must go the same way as their specious access to absolute truth in matters ranging from biology to beard length, to the proper role of the sexes. Considering that all humans alive today are the descendants of a band of probably only a few thousand hominids that lived in Africa between 100 and 250 thousand years ago, it should come as little surprise that we share many core traits which have enabled our species to survive and thrive in astoundingly unprecedented ways the most violently indelible planetary impressions of any other known living organism. Even knowledge of this well-established account of our origins might not convince people that there is some universal morality, in light of so many drastically discrepant social norms and customs evident across cultures. Research into the question of whether or not people possess a “universal moral grammar” has been pursued by, among others, Marc Hauser and Peter Singer. Together they devised a moral sense test that can be completed online and has been utilised in numerous studies with thousands of participants over the years. In an essay published on the superlative science-related site Edge two years ago, Hauser explains that most of the scenarios in the test “involve genuine moral dilemmas” in which participants are asked to judge whether a particular action is morally forbidden, permissible, or obligatory. He cites two examples. One involves the permissibility of a doctor killing then of one healthy person who happens to be present in a hospital at the same time as five people who each desperately need a different vital organ if they are to survive. Another question asks if it is morally acceptable to push one person into a factory vent to block deadly gas from reaching seven others. According to Hauser, the responses by the many participants to over a 100 dilemmas of this stripe didn’t differ significantly “between men and women, young and old, theistic believers and non-believers, liberals and conservatives.” Hauser added that one’s cultural background is virtually irrelevant to “judging unfamiliar moral scenarios.” In an essay published jointly in 2006 titled ‘Godless Morality,’ Hauser and Singer note that when asked to justify their answers, subjects of their earlier study were either clueless or offered explanations that couldn’t account for the relevant differences. They further pointed out that “those with a religious background [were] as clueless or incoherent as atheists.” For the authors these “studies provide empirical support for the idea that, like other psychological faculties of the mind, including language and mathematics, we are endowed with a moral faculty that guides our intuitive judgments of right and wrong.”

If the existence of a shared human moral sensibility can be plausibly established, the evidence for the widely-held notion that a belief in god automatically equates to greater morality tends to run in a contradictory direction. Religion is, quite frankly, implicated in some of the worst atrocities in history, a list which is far too long to be recounted here. To quote Hauser and Singer again, “religion has led people to commit a long litany of horrendous crimes” which include “God’s command to Moses to slaughter the Midianites – men, women, boys, and non-virginal girls – through the Crusades, the Inquisition, innumerable conflicts between Sunni and Shiite Muslims, and suicide bombers convinced that martyrdom will lead them to paradise.” Sticking just to the present day, it is quite striking to compare and contrast those societies in which religion is rife to ones where a more secular sensibility holds sway. The most religious regions, such as Africa, Latin America and in particular the Middle East, are among the poorest, most conflict ridden, socially regressive, illiterate, superstitious, and misogynistic societies in the world. Conversely, Western Europe, and the Scandinavian countries in particular, consist of some of the most peaceful, socially enlightened, progressive, literate, developed and economically equitable countries anywhere on earth. The United States is something of an outlier among industrialised nations as its economic supremacy has not considerably diminished, as it has in other wealthy countries, the prevalence of religiosity throughout the land. Not that correlation is necessarily indicative of causation, but it is interesting fodder for cogitation that with this widespread faithfulness comes the highest crime and poverty rates, as well as the most inequitable spread of wealth, among the developed world. An even more interesting comparison to pursue is between the socalled Red States and Blue States, shorthand for conservative and liberal, respectively. The southern states are generally the reddest on the map, where right-wing Christian conservatism is the dominant social motif. This part of the country is justifiably known as the Bible Belt. The Blue States are associated with the coastal areas where a more secular outlook is dominant. Despite what conservatives in America might like one to believe, statistics reveal that the Red States have higher rates of divorce, violent crime, suicide, drug use, incarceration, executions and even pornography consumption than the Blue States. Eschewing sweeping societal analyses, contrasting the behavior of atheists with that of the religious is similarly instructive. As an important aside, surely if one earnestly holds to a belief in god equalling superior moral scruples, it follows that any slight perceived deviation renders this universalising dictum moot. To take just one example of two people with very divergent views on the question of god, can anyone seriously argue that the current Pope, a man who was a member of the Hitler Youth and is on record as protecting a number of pedophile priests, is morally superior to Richard Dawkins whose only major public ‘sin’ is to incisively write and talk about religion’s many idiocies? Lest I’m accused of being too selective (which the following selection will admittedly not seriously erase), it should be noted that any list of believers includes Jerry Falwell, Ayatollah Khomeini, Osama Bin Laden, George W. Bush, Baruch Goldstein (who mercilessly assas-

not only is the premise that we can’t be good without god fundamentally fallacious, but it is also deeply insulting to the human race

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Religion is, quite frankly, implicated in

some of the worst atrocities in history

sinated twenty-nine Palestinian Muslims in 1994 who were worshipping in a Mosque in Hebron), Glenn Beck, Newt Gingrich, Hendrik Verwoerd (architect of Apartheid) and the lifelong Catholic Adolf Hitler. A list of the ‘damned’, as the blind faith brigade might designate them, includes: Albert Einstein, Pete Sampras, Mark Twain, Betrand Russell, Salman Rushdie, Noam Chomsky, George Clooney, India’s first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru, Bill Gates, Jodie Foster, Richard Branson, BjÖrk, Gore Vidal, John Malkovich, Ernest Hemingway, John Lennon, Sigmund Freud, Friederich Nietzsche, Kurt Vonnegut and Woody Allen. The case isn’t closed by any means, but hopefully next time someone asserts, as if it’s the most obvious truth in the world, that one cannot be good without believing in some skydwelling daddy figure, some of these names can be casually dropped into the conversation.

Debunking the unique delusions and absurd fantasies common to all major religions, and all the minor ones too, is by now mostly a matter of shooting large aquatic creatures in tiny receptables. That we should continue challenging these beliefs wherever they exist is beyond question. However, the truly insidious myth is the one I have detailed in this essay, as it is even regularly promoted by those who possess not the faintest hint of belief in a supernatural being. The idea that a belief in god always, predicts that a person will act more morally than in the absence of such a belief is not only contradicted by oodles of persuasive evidence, but the very proposition is an affront to common sense and our innate human capacity for telling elementary right from obvious wrong. The sooner this contemptible contention is soundly put to bed, the sooner we can harness our collective values to expand ethical horizons and shape a world better in every respect from the one we have hitherto known. NEH

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& opinion Joseph Kast

here comeS

China

Transitions are inevitable. For some, like former International Monetary Fund (IMF) director Dominique Strauss-Kahn, the change is forced upon you. StraussKahn, who was arrested in May (and later exonerated) on sexual assault charges, has stepped down as managing director. But the one billion citizens of the People’s Republic of China, and their tightly run government, are soon to be forcing global changes on their own terms. It is now thought that China will pass the United States as the world’s largest economy by 2016, as much as a decade earlier than many analysts thought the transition would occur. It should be no surprise, then, that this shift in power at the IMF will also see an eventual “eastern” shift in power amongst the nations who contribute to it. Both Mexico’s Agustín Carstens and France’s Christine Lagarde visited Beijing in their campaigns to replace Strauss-Kahn for the IMF’s top spot. The visits alone signify what Lagarde herself said in Beijing in June: that under her, the IMF would boost the standings of “countries that are underrepresented, as is the case with China.” This would mean giving the PRC a bigger vote, or even a more important role for China’s renminbi currency, perhaps becoming part of the IMF’s Special Drawing Rights (the currency basket the IMF uses as a monetary unit), alongside the dollar, Euro, pound and yen. In 2009, the governor of China’s central bank, Zhou Xiaochuan, also called for a single world currency to replace the dollar amid concerns that the dollar could inflate wildly in the aftermath of the US subprime mortgage crisis. China, of course, ought to be concerned. It owns more U.S. debt than any other nation.

China will pass the United States as the world’s largest economy by 2016, as much as a decade earlier than many analysts thought the transition would occur. A greater say at the IMF is an ironic twist, since China has been criticized for acting as a sort of anti-IMF. While the IMF gives loans to countries in economic straits only on the premise that these countries enact deep austerity measures and make strong freemarket adjustments, China lends and invests without demanding any such economic or political reform. A good example of this arrangement is the PRC’s $9 billion loan to Angola in 2006 solely in exchange for petroleum. China also provides significant aid to the socialist military junta that rules Burma, as well as the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (North Korea). It is safe to say neither of these countries are making strong free-market adjustments. Perhaps an eventual shift from West to East at the IMF is justified. Nations like China and the Republic of Korea, who overwhelmingly supply goods to the consumerist West, came out of the 2008 banking collapse looking like financially responsible older siblings. And greater say for South Korea would be poetic justice for Koreans, who fairly feel the IMF did more harm than help here by representing the concerns of global banks more than the Korean people during the 1997 Asian financial crisis.

photography by lillian rihela

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Transitions are inevitable. For some, like former International Monetary Fund (IMF) director Dominique Strauss-Kahn, the change is forced upon you. NEH

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Dustin Wilshire

youtube rant Illustration by pat VOLZ

There are a lot of things I appreciate about Youtube.

Take for example the choreographed cooking episodes. Three words: Epic. Meal. Time. It’s obnoxious, arrogant and disgusting, which makes it magnificent content. Everything is prepared with Jack Daniels and a bacon weave, and they love to blow that “internet money”. Have you seen the girl from My Drunk Kitchen? Her self loathing is annoyingly entertaining as she hiccups her way through botched attempts at culinary instruction. Drunk Tacos is my favorite episode so far. Boozing and cooking videos are just scratching the surface. Appreciate that you can find just about any song you want to hear with a quick search. If you’re looking for Phish, Widespread Panic or Wilco, or any band with a grandiose touring schedule, you may have to sift through multiple live versions of the song to find the studio cut you desire, but chances are it’s on there. Youtube offers loads of useful information to someone who loves to travel. In Korea alone, the number of YouTubers who create specialized content on where to go, what to do and what to eat is too high to count. They have created their own pages, groups and communities on all of the social networking sites and even host biannual get togethers under the name Seoul Tube. That said, I have a love/hate relationship with Youtube. I was a live music afiçionado before I moved to Korea. Irresponsibly, I whipped out my camera at most of these concerts and later uploaded it. I enjoyed watching the live footage that others put up there, so why not return the favor? Because Bob Dylan, The Decemberists and the artist formerly known as Prince would object, that’s why. Might as well have been Roger Clemens, Nolan Ryan and Mariano Rivera throwing the high heat because with YouTube, it’s three strikes and you’re out. I wasn’t even at a Prince show. The offending video was a Purple Rain cover by Mike Doughty at the Question Jar show at Mississippi Studios in Portland. Making matters worse, because that old YouTube account was linked to a newer one through a mutually shared email address, both accounts were terminated. Not only was the offending account, inactive for years, removed; so was the newer and very active one. The latter, once crucial to my blog, was deleted for copyright infringement as well, even though its content was original. Lesson learned. Don’t mess with copyrighted material and always distinguish separate Youtube accounts with a unique email address. That’s all in the past. Let’s focus on the now. I’m sure the environment is similar elsewhere, but for relevance sake, consider what we have here in Korea. Some of the highlights from Korean YouTubers were mentioned above. To go along with the good, a lot of what the local community produces is egotistical, irritating and downright boring. The videos where the creator is walking around his neighborhood, speaking directly to the camera pointed at his face – I don’t understand the appeal. The viewer has no understanding of what’s

going on in the world around the YouTuber. All we get to see is the person’s eyes darting back and forth as he stumbles through his talking points. Of course the message is poorly delivered. Who can think straight with the impending doom of crossing the street ahead? Maybe it’s time to consider delivering your message free from multi-tasking, especially when the dominant task is surviving the onslaught of Korean umbrella-bashing contact on the sidewalk. What’s worse? Video directions. They may appear to be a good idea when the standard, left at the Paris Baguette, right at the By The Way, straight past the Pizza School and it’s next to the Kyo Chung Chicken on the left side of the road-style directions won’t cut it. Unfortunately, because the YouTuber is babbling non-stop during the entire 10 minute jaunt from the subway station to the destination, they don’t cut out a thing. What’s the need for editing when what you have to say is so important? As a viewer, to get the information you want, you are forced to listen to their time sucking banter about the unique street art in Hongdae and why they prefer the Galaxy Tab to the iPad. I just want to know how to get to the Charlie Brown cafe. Spare me the rest. This brings me to an observation about the YouTube community here. Much of the content is great, creatively brainstormed and executed well. But a lot of it is space-wasting time filler. What confuses me is when the same YouTuber releases both the great and the garbage. What further perplexes me is why the creators of great content don’t acknowledge that the other stuff is junk. Both their own trash and other people’s. Why is this happening? Careful deliberation has led me in the direction to two legitimate conclusions: 1) The YouTuber is so full of himself, and loves to hear himself talk so much, that it clouds his vision of what is great and what isn’t crap. 2) The YouTuber avoids calling out the crap, so that other Youtubers will continue to acknowledge how wonderful she is. Let’s cut the crap. As an observer, it is easy to assume the only reason these people watch and share each other’s videos, leaving comments every step of the way, is to ensure that the same action will be reciprocated to them. Having a video on your channel without a glut of comments from your friends telling you how amazing your work is obviously makes you a loser. I do it for you, you do it for me. It’s like a giant cyber circle jerk of YouTube courtesy. I’m fully aware that nobody is holding a gun to my head, forcing me to watch YouTube videos. Who do you think you are pointing out the flaws of others? If you don’t like it, don’t watch it. Truth is, I honestly enjoy a lot of YouTube content, from Korea and beyond. I’m just tired of sifting through the crap to find it.

It’s like a giant cyber circle jerk of

YouTube courtesy. NEH

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& opinion Whisper Chase

Step Away From the Barbecue and Put on an Apron! illustration by leah hoelscher

You may have come over to Korea with healthy eating habits, destroyed upon assimilation by a love for fried chicken and beer, or the pervasive Korean barbecue. If you’ve been able to maintain your healthy conventions, then lucky for you, but for those who have not, you may need some guidance in getting back on track. There are tons of healthy Korean food options that are devoid of greasy meats and barbecued goodness, but eating these bad foods once in awhile is both yummy and part of the culture that you should partake in, if you have an affinity for smoky meats. If you’re concerned about overhauling your current health practices, then read on for some tips. A good way to implement healthy eating while living in Korea, or anywhere abroad for that matter, would be to keep junk food to a minimum in the house. If you cannot be trusted and will eat cookies for dinner, it’s time to say goodbye to keeping them readily available. If you want some cookies, buy them when you want them and share them. This will keep you focused on eating healthy and filling foods.

a Sunday; this way, you can bring leftovers to work. This not only saves time, it also provides a healthy and sumptuous meal and saves money. On Sundays, I like to make a slower-cooked meal that can be served alone or accompanied with rice. It’s an easy way to know that I will have a delicious meal at work and that I don’t have to resort to eating Paris Baguette sammies or indulging in Korean street food on my lunch hour. If you know you will not have the opportunity to eat well, be sure to plan ahead and bring your own lunch and snacks. This way you know what you’re eating and you don’t have to eat something that may derail you from your healthy pursuits. I’d like to remind you if you are trying to cut back on calories, you don’t have to worry about cutting back on taste. There are tons of ways to make wholesome and hearty meals that are low in calories and taste awesome. You will have to change the way you look at cooking and eating out, but it can be done if you put the effort in. Check out Eating Well’s website for some healthy recipe idea www.eatingwell.com.

A good way to implement healthy eating while living in Korea, or abroad for that matter would be to keep junk food to a minimum in the house. If keeping junk to a minimum leaves your fridge and cupboards bare, be sure to stock up on leafy greens, veggies and fruits of all sorts, lean meats (poultry and seafood), tofu, beans, nuts, seeds, whole grain cereals and crackers, low-fat dairy options. I personally advocate for soy products because I believe they are more sensitive to the digestive system, but if you love milk, enjoy it! It’s also very health-conscious to have meatless days or plan out meatless meals. You don’t have to go vegetarian and vegan if you don’t want to, but cutting back on your meat intake can help restore some of your body’s vitality. Before you go shopping, it might be helpful to peruse online resources for recipe ideas and meal options. I find that being prepared helps keep you on point and eating healthy. You can make a menu template that allows you to plan out all your meals, snacks, and the prep time it will take. Please visit www.unclutterer.com/2008/02/20/creating-a-weekly-meal-plan/ and scroll down to get a template in Excel version, or a PDF. Deciding what foods you want to eat beforehand makes it easier to shop, prep, and then cook. People tend to grab food out of convenience, so you can avoid this by conveniently preparing “easy foods” on the days you know you will be super busy. Easy foods should take less than twenty minutes to prepare and cook, such as: salad, a simple sandwich, stir-fry, leftovers, egg salad, pasta salad, oatmeal, smoothies, grilled cheese, bokkeumbap; the choice is all yours! Remember if you are making something a bit on the caloric side, offset it with a salad or with lots of fresh veggies to ensure your meal is both balanced and full of fiber. Once you’ve stocked all that goodness, know what you’re making, be excited about it, then do it! This means prepping raw veggies on a day when you have some time for it; this way they can be left in your fridge and ready to gnosh on whenever you want. It’s also a good idea to do some big cooking on 54

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If you are a sweets-a-holic, it’s important to find ways to cater to your sweet tooth in a healthy way. Try using agave nectar instead of honey; it has a lower glycemic index, which means it won’t raise your blood sugar through the roof. Instead of eating store-bought pastries, make your own. If you like apple pie, make apple streusel instead. By replacing all the butter and flour with oats, you are making a hearty dessert that will still be tasty, but a lot better for you. If you enjoy ice cream but don’t want the calories, freeze bananas and then blend them with milk and other fruits, freeze again for a few hours, and then you’ll have some healthy ice cream. To keep the calories low, use soy milk instead of dairy. Remember: food should be enjoyed and celebrated, so find those foods that make you feel good about life, and share them with your loved ones.

deciding what foods you want to eat beforehand makes it easier to shop, prep, and then cook. People tend to grab food of convenience, so you can avoid this by conveniently preparing “easy foods” on the days you know you will be super busy.

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exclusive

busta rhymes American-born Rapper

Hip hop veteran Busta Rhymes made his debut Korean performance at this summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green Groove Festival. After the worst stage rain heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever seen, we caught up with him backstage to discuss the deluge, his new label Conglomerate Records and the origins of his world famous name. words by dustin wilshire & photography by philippe teston

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Busta Rhymes was talking to me about Chuck D. A moment ago he was talking about Dre. Pinch myself.

Yes, this is really happening. “I might as well let you all know now, there will be no interviews or photos today,” she says as she briskly walks by,

bursting the bubble of everyone waiting eagerly in the designated press area. She is the manager for Busta Rhymes. We are backstage at Green Groove Festival 2011. Damn. What I wouldn’t give to get a chance to speak with Busta Rhymes a.k.a. Busa Busss. Most know him as the immensely influential world famous hip hop artist and nine time Grammy nominee. In addition to being a legend in his own right, he’s collaborated with the likes of Tribe Called Quest, Janet Jackson, Mary J. Blige, Mariah Carey, Nas, Eninem, Raekwon, Pharrell and P.Diddy. Musically, that’s just scratching the surface. Others may also remember his acting career. IMDB lists his movie appearances at eleven, including two directed by John Singleton, as well as several TV appearances. On the big screen he has worked alongside prestigious actors including Christian Bale, Samuel L. Jackson, Sean Connery and Jamie Lee Curtis. His original crew Leaders of the New School (LONS) released an album in 1991, but I’m willing to say that like me, most people didn’t take notice of Busta Rhymes until 1992. “Scenario” by Tribe Called Quest featuring LONS was in heavy rotation on MTV. Near the end of the song Q-Tip raps, “Yo Mr. Busta Rhymes, tell him what I did,” followed by the first words I ever heard come out of his mouth: I heard you rushed and rushed, and attacked Then they rubuked and you had to smack Causin’ rambunction, throughout the sphere Raise the levels of the boom inside the ear With these four lines, the tall, skinny, young rapper with baby dreads gave you just enough to entice you. It was intriguing, but did it prepare you for what was coming? Not even close. Q-Tip comes back in with three more lines. In the fourth, he cordially introduces Busta to most of he world. Q-Tip: So here’s Busta Rhymes with the, Scenario. Busta Rhymes: As I combine all the juice from the mind Heel up, wheel up, bring it back, come rewind Powerful impact BOOM from the cannon... The rest is history. From there Busta rips into what is easily one of my favorite rap verses of all time. It’s a forty-six second tirade of constantly quoted material, delivered in his early uniquely Jamaican-esque yet born and raised in New York growl. How many times have you heard: Uh, uh, uh, all over the track man Uh, follow me uh, as I come back Rawr Rawr like a dungeon dragon Chickity-choco, the chocolate chicken For me and many others, it was a coming out moment. I consider it the introduction to the gritty high energy that would come to define his career. All that is running through my head as our attempts at meeting Mr. Rhymes were repeatedly shot down throughout most of the evening. During the two day event, a majority of the artists made their way through the press tent to have pictures snapped in front of the photo zone. This was basically the only opportunity for journalists like myself to get a few words in. From there, they either jumped on stage or went back to hiding out in their shipping containers renovated into artist holding stalls. Before you knew it, they were piling into a white van (champagne bottles in hand) to whisk them off to the airport, and you’re left wondering where your interview went. We were told early, a few hours before his performance, that none of the above would be happening with Busta Rhymes. No press. No interviews. No photos. Not before his performance. Not after. Not at all. Sigh. However, just before Busta took the stage, his manager offered up a small glimmer of hope. As she walked by, she turned to my girlfriend (the editorial director of the magazine, who had spoken with her several times in a feverish attempt to line something up for us) and said rather nonchalantly, “Maybe you guys will get lucky later on.” We took that small nugget to the VVIP area of the festival and awaited the Busta show. The scene backstage after the performance was a bit of a circus. Not much attention was placed on restricting who was wandering around. The result was that fans, event staff and members of the various artists’ entourages mingled together in a common bond. Eventually, even Jay Park and TigerJK and T from Drunken Tiger would join the crowd. The question clearly on everyone’s mind was “when would we get a chance at meeting Busta Rhymes?” 58

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“But I’m just in a whole new space, and a whole new direction, and it just feels great to always be able to present a new gift to the world…” 60

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Then came the crackdown, which frankly had been a long time coming. Everyone out. First

we were banished to the press area, then eventually, all were asked to leave the backstage area altogether. As it cleared out, dragging our feet paid off. After literally all the others had vacated the area, and the security team had just about had it with our stalling, Busta’s manager came to the rescue and brought us back into the forbidden zone and told us to wait. Against the wishes of the event staff, her OK gave us the clearance to do so. Now one step closer, if the interview was going to happen, we’d have to hang around a while. And that we did. Thankfully, this gave us the chance to get to know the touring crew a little bit. I found out that DJ Scratchator has been on tour with Busta Rhymes since 1995 and hopes to book some Korean club gigs in the future. We also spent some time with Spliff Star. If you’ve ever seen a Busta Rhymes video or performance, you’ve no doubt seen Spliff. I asked him how long he and Busta have been at it together. “Since I was nine years old I’ve been his baby brother.” I replied that I can’t think of a time when it wasn’t the two of them. His response, “I wouldn’t be the same if it wasn’t the two of us.” Later in the evening, Busta told me himself, “Spliff has been with me forever. He’s the only original member of every single change and turning point that I’ve been through in my career.” As they both pointed out to me, that career spans twenty-one years. I also asked Spliff about his favorite places to stop on tour. “Amsterdam is one of them”, he said, followed by a round of laughter from everyone within casual listening distance. “Australia too. And I think Korea.” Really, you guys like Korea that much? “I like the crowd man. I want to come back and play in Seoul. I want to see what the city is really like.” It’s fair to say an hour passed before the excitement hit. During this stretch, we got increasingly nervous every time the container door opened, even if it was one false alarm after another. If it had to do with us, it was either the manager requesting what kind of questions I was going to ask, or giving me a hard time for not being a Korean woman, or someone else asking us about Seoul and Korean weather. The other constant during this period was the event staff trying to toss us out on average every ten minutes. Queue the excitement. The Green Groove photographers quickly assembled at the door of the container. What they knew that we didn’t, was that Mr. Rhymes would be popping out in a few seconds for the one and only photo opportunity of the entire evening. As he emerged, the flashes were seizure inducing. I caught the attention of the manager, was given the go ahead to wave our photographer over, and we joined the flash mob. “Don’t stop”, she said to us, “Keep taking them, keep taking them.” As the sound of snapping cameras slowed, she turned to me and said, “You’ve got two questions. Go.” Huh? On the spot, I wasn’t comfortable butting in the middle of the photo session, so I didn’t. It sounds absurd, but at the time, I would rather have had no conversation with him, than to have something that was forced, awkward and disappointing. There goes my career as a White House press conference reporter. I have to admit, as they all returned to the container and I had nothing, the feelings of “Oh my God, I just fucked up,” swept over me. Thankfully, the door opened again a few seconds later and we were let in. There we were. Inside the container. With Busta Rhymes. Give a nod to Crystal. We met her earlier, she’s down with my good friend Marco. And Scratchator. And Spliff. Look at all that food. And the booze, my God! Go time. I walked up to Mr. Rhymes, stuck my hand out and received the obligatory fist bump. After introducing myself and our publication, I asked his impressions of his first trip to Korea. The crowd, the performance. Anything stick out? “Yeah. I mean you know what it is. You saw what it was,” he said. “It was beautiful. The energy was great. We were embraced, and that’s always a great feeling.” UR Culture co-founder, Dong Won Kim, with Busta Rhymes

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Spliff Star performing at the Green Groove Festival

“Spliff has been with me forever. He’s the only original member of every single change and turning point that I’ve been through in my career.” His performance was hit hard by the rain. I’m talking torrential,

relentless, Asian rain. So I asked him, have you ever performed in rain like that before? “Naw, I never did. Usually if it rains, there’s something that’s covering us up. This was the first time that it was like that [not covered]. But it was needed. Ironically, it was revitalizing. We flew for thirteen hours. We drove for five. We haven’t even seen the hotel yet,” he said to me describing the hectic process of getting from New York City to Daecheon Beach. “That rain really was refreshing. It revitalized the whole energy and mood swing, because I’m not gonna lie, before I got on stage, I wasn’t feeling right physically.” While he was talking, a beer hit the ground behind me, shot up between my legs, wetting my shorts and feet. The beverage splash reached his feet as well. As he apologized for something that had happened to me countless times in the past, the normality of something like someone dropping a beer in a weird way, set me at ease. Not that I was completely freaked out, but to take the words from his mouth, I’m not going to lie, before that beer dropped, I was feeling a bit nervous. Now, it just felt like I was having a late night conversation with friends. After discussing the rigors of constant travel, as well as how nice it is to safely touch down at your destination, I switched topics to his new label Conglomerate Records. “It’s my new powerful movement. It’s the most refreshing endeavor of my new, my new everything. From the unchartered territory that I’m embarking on at this stage of my career, my growth, you know what I’m saying. I’m going through a lot of turning points, evolution processes, revolutionary points in my career. This is just the newest and the most refreshing.” “It’s probably one of the most inspiring because I’m finally surrounded by stars. Not discrediting what I’ve been affiliated with before with Flipmode. We’ve been able to build a legacy with Flipmode as well.” He continues to discuss how the Conglomerate differs from his past affiliations, making sure we don’t think that he’s talking down to his past crew. He continues by saying, “I actually got a couple artists from Flipmode that I’m gonna be doing some new things with as well, so the legacy will never die. But I’m just in a whole new space, and a whole new direction, and it just feels great to always be able to present a new gift to the world. New gift wrap, new ribbon on it, say ‘Yo, here’s the new present for y’all.’ You know what I mean? That’s a great feeling.” Sounds fascinating. Just who will we be seeing music from the Conglomer62

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ate? “Reek Da Villain, Spliff Star as always. Big up to Noreaga, who’s now part of the Conglomerate. J. Doe which is a new artist from the west coast, that’s a part of the Conglomerate. Yummy Bingham, which is a soulstress and incredible R&B singer from New York. Nikki Grier who’s also a phenomenal queen. And not only that, she’s a phenomenal songwriter and so on and so forth. She’s had a long stint with Dr. Dre and I’ve been working with them for about 7-8 years.” We discussed Dr. Dre and Aftermath Records, and why Nikki Grier deserved a chance to blossom with the Conglomerate family as a performer, not just a songwriter. After he shared his excitement over J. Doe’s new video for “Coke, Dope, Crack, Smack”, which premiered on MTV2 the following day, I felt like maybe it was time to wrap things up. But before I go, there is something I’ve always wanted to know. The origin of his name. “It came from a football player from the 1985 Vikings. It was a lineman. I got the name from Chuck D from Public Enemy about 1986. I think I was about thirteen or fourteen.” Pause. Busta Rhymes was talking to me about Chuck D. A moment ago he was talking about Dre. Pinch myself. Yes, this is really happening. Mr. Rhymes continues, “And he said that I used to, you know when I was coming out there trying to audition to get put on by ‘em, the Bomb Squad and Hank Shocklee, he just felt like I was so aggressive in my performance ability it reminded him of the football player. And they always used to ask me to ‘bust a rhyme’ anyway.” “It was ironic that a football player from the 1985 Vikings, Busta Rhymes, his aggression as a football player, my aggression as a rapper, it was just like synonymous with each other, so it made sense.” I now understand. Not only were they similar in their aggressive style, but it also refers to how the great Chuck D would put him on the spot as a kid. To continue the thought, he said, “And I embodied it because Chuck D to me was a God, and he still is a God you know, so I just put my faith in what he gave me, and his word, and it’s what he thought was best for me at the time.” The final words he said during our interview were, “You know, twentyone years later you can see that it’s worked out. So I’m happy, I’m grateful and it’s been a blessed thing.” I’m not sure anyone can argue with that. My girlfriend took a shot of tequila with his manager. I shook hands with everyone we met that night. A few pictures were taken. Business cards exchanged. In six hours we went from no chance whatsoever of meeting Busta Rhymes, to exiting the container with a bottle of champagne as a gift from his crew. Now the only question is, when do we pop the bottle?

â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was ironic that a football player from the 1985 Vikings, Busta Rhymes, his aggression as a football player, my aggression as a rapper, it was just like synonymous with each other,

so it made sense.â&#x20AC;?

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community

& events

2011 GREEN GROOVE FESTIVAL WORDS BY DUSTIN WILSHIRE / PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILIPPE TESTON & UR CULTURE

ÂŠ UR CULTURE

Bottles of hard alcohol, champagne, beer and water were available as well as a delicious fruit plate that we looked forward to every day. 64

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community

& events

The Green Groove Festival 2011 was held on August 13th and 14th in Daecheon Beach. According to organizers UR Culture, also known as Urban Nomad, the aim of this inaugural event was to shift the perception of ecofriendly ideals, creating a culture and lifestyle rather than a public announcement, all while being able to enjoy some of the best musical performances in Korea during a vacation to the beach. This was achieved through festival design and an eclectic lineup. The main stage played host to the headlining acts and DJs that kept the music going until early in the morning. Among others, Saturday night brought energetic performances by Drunken Tiger & T and Jay Park, both performing songs in Korean and English, mixing in a little hip hop, R&B and pop. Rounding out the headlining acts that night was the legendary Busta Rhymes on his first trip to Korea. Not deterred by the massive rain storm that struck during his set, Busta, Spliff Star and DJ Scratchator lived up to their reputation of tight

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beats and a verbal onslaught that has followed them for years. Busta Rhymes would later tell me that he’s never performed in rain like that before. The lineup Sunday night further ensured festival goers would get their money’s worth. UV hit the crowd early with some comedy including “Itaewon Freedom.” Dynamic Duo and Supreme Team flexed their Korean hip muscles. Apl.de.ap of Black Eyed Peas performed an excellent DJ set on what he told me was his fourth trip to Korea. And Grammy award winning Afrojack whipped the crowd up into a frenzy with an extra long set of hard hitting beats, laser beams and vodka chugging. The sub stage was located separate from the main stage, in an area accessible to anyone, not only ticket holders. Surrounding the sub stage was the experience zone, various booths set up by companies wanting to display ecofriendly products. Providing the music on the substage was artists such as Windy City, Ska Wars and No Brain.

The location best known for hosting the annual Boryeong Mud Festival served as a fine setting. The Green Groove festival grounds were located minutes from the water. Daecheon Beach has plenty of lodging. A friend of mine rolled in to a motel close to the festival without a reservation and negotiated a pretty ridiculously good summer time rate. And although there was no food being served at the event, there are plenty of restaurants within walking distance, including the most crowded Lotteria I’ve ever seen, serving up shrimp burgers, bulgogi burgers and chicken fillets to anyone not in the mood for the abundant seafood cuisine that litters the boardwalk and surrounding areas.

One last thing to point out, hosted by Club Heaven, the VVIP area was nothing short of top notch. It was under cover, so although it didn’t rain a lot, we remained dry during the great Busta Rhymes deluge. There were ample tables with chairs, as well as floor seating on a platform located behind. Bottles of hard alcohol, champagne, beer and water were available as well as a delicious fruit plate that we looked forward to every day. Definitely the way to enjoy the festival.

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AN UNLIKELY FAMILY This family looks nothing like your traditional Korean family; quite the opposite. Their ages range vastly from just a month old to 17 years of age; they all have unique stories, personalities and aspirations, yet the thread that ties them together is that they are have all been orphaned or abandoned. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY BY INGE KATHLEEN

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AN UNLIKELY FAMILY Since the 1950s, over 200,000 Korean children have been adopted with more than 160,000 of these children going to international homes. Tucked in the Korean hillside, two hours east from the madness of central Seoul, lies a small bustling village of sorts called Shinmang, where a family of more than forty young boys and girls live. This family looks nothing like your traditional Korean family; quite the opposite. Their ages range vastly from just a month old to seventeen years of age; they all have unique stories, personalities and aspirations, yet the thread that ties them together is that they have all been orphaned or abandoned. Shinmang Orphanage has been in operation since 1952. It has slowly grown to house more than thirty boys, ten girls, and an assortment of bushy dogs. Shinmang is a place where these children can grow up with a loving family until they reach eighteen years of age when then they become independent. Most of these “orphans” still have one or both of their parents alive and almost all have closely related family, but most will likely never return to their families nor be adopted. The children come to Shinmang for a variety of reasons. A few have no parents; others have parents who are mentally or financially unable to provide for them; others have been abused or abandoned; while others have single parents who gave them up because of pressures from their family or a future spouse. This pressure is rooted in Koreans’ Confucianist beliefs of bloodline. The blood is an important link between parent and child. It is so valued that new spouses do not want a child that does not have their own blood. Furthermore, the idea of adopting, a completely unknown is much more foreign to many Koreans. This is why adoption is so rare here. “[Koreans] don’t want a kid from another bloodline,” says Myung Hee Park, the director of the Shinmang Orphanage. When Koreans choose to adopt, however, they usually do so without their friends or family knowing. One way they hide it is by faking a pregnancy and then adopting an infant. Since the 1950s, more than 200,000 Korean children have been adopted, with more than 160,000 of these children going to international homes. However, most of the children at Shinmang are much too old to be adopted. According to the U.S. State Department, 86 percent of children adopted in Korea are under the age of one. Additionally, the parental rights for most of the Shinmang children rest with their families, even in cases when they are abandoned. I began visiting Shinmang Orphanage about a year and a half ago. I found it with the help of my Korean friend. The orphanage is just a subway stop and a twenty five-minute walk away from the little country school where I teach. I remember the first time I went. It was a frigid winter day, and the director, Myung Hee Park, came to pick me up at the train station. I got in her car, and almost immediately we turned off the main road in favor of a back road that took us past little farms, worn hanok houses, and frost-kissed rice fields. We then wound up on a narrow road and arrived at Shinmang, an orphanage that at this time was only for boys. NEH

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AN UNLIKELY FAMILY I was there not to teach English to the children, but to simply play with them. I was a little nervous about what I would do with them; my Korean level was barely higher than survival. However, I figured despite this language barrier, I was a child from a family of nine kids, and I would improvise somehow. Park toured me around the house and then led me to a room with a few little boys inside. She said that I could hang out with them for a few minutes while she finished up some office work. The boys were all gathered around the television enthralled by a Disney cartoon. I went and sat with them for a moment and tried to impress them with my Korean, but they just looked at me like I was a white ogre. Fair enough, I thought, apparently my language skills weren’t the way to their little hearts. Instead I managed to bribe one of the smallest ones away from Mr. Disney with crayons and white paper. With these materials at our disposal, we sprawled on the yellow laminate floor, laying flat on our bellies. We began drawing anything and everything we could think of. I would draw a bunny and then he would draw the same one. He would draw a flower, and I would color it in. Then I drew a tree, but apparently it wasn’t up to his standards, so he dramatically scratched it out and then giggled mischievously. Before we knew it, time had flown by, and dinner was ready. He motioned with his hands that it was time to eat. We placed our masterpieces in his closet, and then he grabbed my hand tightly and led me up the stairs to the little dining hall. He then told me with grand authority where I was to sit. I must sit right next to him! My heart melted right to the floor. From that moment forward, he and all his siblings have had my heart. On this day orphans became real to me. These little ones were not from Oliver Twist or the Little Princess. When I left them that evening, the movie didn’t end. They didn’t get to go home and be tucked in bed by their mother or father. They weren’t going to get chicken noodle soup when they were sick or play catch with their dads. It wasn’t their fault, either. There was nothing wrong with these children; they had brilliant personalities, and beautiful hearts, but that didn’t matter. Since that winter day, I’ve gone to visit their ever-growing family almost weekly. We’ve drawn quite a few more masterpieces; they’ve made me the official piggyback ride giver, human horse, tickle monster, and I am even required to give unlimited airplane rides for a nominal fee of 뽀뽀 (kisses) and hugs. After two years in Korea, I only have a few days left until I leave for Thailand to travel and to work with Burmese refugees. It will be sad to say farewell to my friends and all the delicious Korean food that I love so dearly, but I have Skype and a kitchen. These losses can be remedied. My greatest sadness is knowing that gone are the days of walking up the hill toward their house and hearing them scream at the top of their lungs ‘Inge wasayo!’ (Inge has arrived!) Or having them hug me tightly and then spending the evening spinning round and round until we all fall to the floor from blissful dizziness and then doing it all over again! If only I could take a couple of them with me, I pray, maybe one day soon. Shinmang Orphanage is in Gyeonggi-do Province in Shinwon-ri between Yangsu-ri and Yangpyeong. For more information about how you can help, go to www.shinmang.or.kr/ or contact director Myung Hee Park at 031-772-6244 or via email shinmang1952@hanmail.net. Their address is 경기 양평군 양서면 신원리 산53번지.

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These little ones were not from Oliver Twist or the Little Princess. When I left them that evening, the movie didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t end. They didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to go home and be tucked in bed by their mother or father.

travel

& tourism

A smile stretches across his face as he fondly unwraps a record; he is reminiscing about a time when he danced to this music with his friends while it was in its prime.

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venue spotlight

Santana has been nurtured through his inextinguishable passion for music which started when he was in middle school.

PUT YOUR RECORDS ON AT

SANTANA

words & photography by iga motylska

It’s not difficult to lose yourself among the titles of the vinyl records and CDs which Mr. Lee has been collecting for decades. I gaze through his extensive collection of music to see what we have in common. I notice a few classics which my parents would enjoy too. Santana has been nurtured through his inextinguishable passion for music which started when he was in middle school. His eyes smile when a customer requests one of his favorites by The Beatles or The Rolling Stones; the musical choice is purely chosen by the patrons. You can request anything from Pink Floyd to Metallica, or if you are in a mellow mood; Louis Armstrong or Billie Holiday. Santana—a vinyl record bar in Dongdaemun—has been well-known in the area for the last eleven years and is now beginning to make a reputation for itself among foreigners too. Vinyl records hang on the wall alongside posters you may have found on a teenager’s wall in the early 1980s. Although the venue is small, as most in South Korea are, Mr. Lee is very accommodating and joined tables together for my rather large group of friends. The low lighting creates a comfortable atmosphere as you relax on a couch. Although there is no stage or dance floor, as the evening progressed people danced with one another in between tables and chairs. Others sang into their beer bottle microphones. The best nights to visit are Fridays and Saturdays. A selection of local and international beers, liqueurs and cognacs are available but don’t ask him to make you a cocktail for he may think you are asking him to play a new band he may not have heard yet. His English is well polished for a man his age, “due to my service in the army,” he tells me as we continue to talk. Someone has requested Oasis and people spontaneously begin to clap and cheer as it begins to play.

“Which is the best selling band in the history of popular music?” he asks me with raised eyebrows. I look through his stacked assortment and point. “Yes, you guessed it: The Beatles.” A smile stretches across his face as he fondly unwraps a record; he is reminiscing about a time when he danced to this music with his friends while it was in its prime. He places it on the turntable with care and you realize that music is his first love. He gently positions the tone arm and as the needle touches down I hear my favorite sound: crackling.

What to show the taxi driver:

서울특별시 동대문구 회기동 76-1 미도빌딩 2층 The address:

Seoul, Dongdaemun-gu, Hoegi –dong 76-1, 2F Mido Building. How to get there:

At Hoegi subway station (Line 1 and Jungang Line) take exit 1 and turn left onto the sidewalk, walk straight. Cross the intersection and continue straight. It will be on your left hand side. Who to call if you get lost:

Mr. Lee (the owner) on 02-966-7535 or 010-5538-0275.

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travel

& tourism

THE

SPLENDORS OF SAMCHEONG-DONG WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY BY IGA MOTYLSKA

It seems to be a world away from the rushed lifestyle which is so ubiquitous within Seoul. 76

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You should visit Samcheong-dong with the intention of getting lost among the narrow paths and alleyways. I wander wide-eyed along the eastern wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace, beneath the Gingko trees. You should visit Samcheong-dong with the intention of getting lost among the narrow paths and alleyways. It’s the most adventurous manner in which you can discover the small art galleries, welcoming boutiques, delectable cafes, and classy restaurants which collectively create the ambient atmosphere of this Seoul neighborhood. At first something seems amiss. I can’t quite figure out what it is. And then I realize that the flashing neon lights and high rise buildings, which have become so synonymous with Korean urban landscapes, are nowhere to be found. This gives the area more of a European feel. Patrons sit on open-air verandas, beneath umbrellas while eating their afternoon treat. A Cheshire cat leisurely licks its paw as passersby stroll along. This cultural hideaway has a very calming effect on its visitors. It seems to be a world away from the rushed lifestyle which is so ubiquitous within Seoul. Instead it offers you a glimpse of a place where time is savored. I admire the artworks and antiques – enticing me to take a closer look – as they are proudly lined up along the cobbled side streets. Seoulites consider this the ideal location to find out-of-the-ordinary treasures, whether it’s a gift for an artsy friend or lively street art and captivating graffiti to catch your eye. The brightly colored walls-wire art, fashioned metal signs and mobiles hanging in entranceways are a delightful sight. Large chain stores are a rarity here, if you can find them at all; instead they are replaced with quaint privately owned clothing and accessory stores where you can buy handmade jewellery. Although you will find Korean diners on the outskirts of the area, it is mostly populated by European-styled cafes, pizzerias, and bakeries. Do not expect to see a fast food chain outlet in the vicinity either. The closest you will come to that is a Kraze Burger outlet. I gladly happened upon a restaurant named after and decorated in the style of one of my favorite childhood books: Antoine de SaintExupéry’s The Little Prince. As I leisurely stroll further away from Gyeongbokgung palace, the hill begins to reveal a romantic view of Bukchon Hanok Village. At one of its highest points my eyes are met with a patchwork quilt of roofs. As I descend to meander between the traditional Korean houses, the wooden window shutters and layered roof tiles begin to resemble the intricately carved patterns found on a potato print. Some of the hanoks have taken on a new life in the form of an art studio, teahouse or beauty parlor. People disappear through doorways. As I walk farther uphill the road signs point me in the direction of Samcheonggak Park–a pleasure garden within which you can walk along the length of Seoul’s fortress. I hear children’s laughter emanating from the trees and well-loved swings creaking in the background. Although the walk is not too strenuous; comfortable shoes will ease the ascent. From the wall, I am greeted with views of Bukhansan’s granite rock formations, Seoul’s Namsan Tower, and waving teenage hikers. I would highly recommend bringing your camera along for the journey. NEH

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news

& Humor

world news

you should be talking about Depardieu pees on a plane Veteran French actor Gerard Depardieu (The Man in the Iron Mask, Bellamy) recently made waves (and water) on board an Air France flight when he relieved himself on the floor of the cabin after being denied access to one of the toilets during take-off. The actor, who has prostate problems which apparently necessitated the urgency of his…dilemma, filled an entire water bottle and the urine overflowed onto the floor. As a result, the flight returned to the terminal and Depardieu was refused travel. Passengers on board the flight were relieved themselves but also concerned about what could have transpired during the flight had Depardieu been allowed to make the journey as Indian curry was meant to be served as the in-flight meal.

plus size popularity MTV says it will debut a new plus size reality star this October. The show titled after its starlet Chelsea Settles will follow the recent college grad as she tries to make it big in the Los Angeles fashion world while struggling with her long-distance relationship, social anxieties and weight loss. Originally, MTV had intended to have the show set in the fashion capital of America, New York City, but considered the disastrous combination of a broken heart, social phobias and some of the best thin crust pizza in the world.

The Sims now on Facebook As if users weren’t already spending enough time on Facebook and away from their real lives, the social networking giant has recently partnered with EA Play to bring the granddaddy of social interaction games The Sims to its members. Through The Sims app platform, characters can become friends, fall in love, get married and even break up – all of which the creators say will add to the player’s emotional connection to their Sim. On the downside of this new game, Facebook is expecting to see a spike in status updates that read “…[so and so]’s relationship status is now single.”

Burger King No More Fast food giant Burger King has dethroned their creepy kingly mascot. The bigheaded, brown haired “Burger King” has been torturing television sets for the past decade – from doing a Spongebob music video to being in bed with a man to surprise him with a bacon-cheese burger. Freaky. Instead, Burger King will be airing ads that take a more “food centric” approach with close up shots of lettuce, tomato and burger patties. Because when you’re not being freaked out by a paedophilic looking mascot, you’re hoping to see images of food that will never come to you the way it looks on TV.

Female Orgasms on Airplanes Qantas Airlines is taking the “mile high club” to a whole new level with their new in-flight channel The Edge. The new feature will include the 50-minute French documentary The Female Orgasm Explained which includes several nude scenes. Just what all those lonely, hotel secluded, traveling business men need to watch to get their mojo going at thirty-thousand feet. 78

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NEH

a u g u s t- s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

NEH

a u g u s t- s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1