NEH Magazine October 2011 - HIS

NEH

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CONTENTS

CULTURE FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

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18

The Intro

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24

The Forum

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Kenneth Park is building an urban-fusion taco restaurant, Vatos Urban Tacos, expected to open in October. It will blow your taste buds out of the water.

From the vast, endless plains of the Serengeti to the exotic spice Islands of Zanzibar, Tanzania has all this and more.

Vatos Tacos Resaurant

by sae-hee burke

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adventurous seoul

Just because you live in the concrete jungle known as Seoul doesn’t mean you can’t get your adrenaline pumping with some exhilarating, sporty activities located right beneath your nose.

Tantalizing tanzania

by maria napitupulu

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Q & A: Oscar pistorius

Amputee Oscar Pistorius competed in Daegu’s World Championships and became the first Paralympian to win an able-bodied World Championship medal.

by iga motylska

by jennifer ross

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Book review: Smile While You’re Lying

by Chuck Thompson

Ryan Rutherford reviews Chuck Thompson’s first book, Smile While You’re Lying, an energetically adventurous memoir.

by Ryan Rutherford

no reason to be angry: Angry Bear set to release second album It’s often difficult for Western bands to sustain long-term careers in Korea. But indie rockers, Angry Bear won’t be hibernating anytime soon.

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Ryan Rutherford argues that the presidency of Barack Obama has been a dangerous disaster both on the domestic and foreign policy fronts.

After you’ve successfully wooed your partner back to your place the question of protection arises.

Your choices include using Korean-made condoms and really, not much else.

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A story about the upcoming 2012 expo and the beaches that are in desperate need of cleaning.

When the topic turned to my grandpa, who divorced my grandma just before my parents tied the knot, everything got… well, it got queer.

ryan rutherford: The atrocious presidency of Barack Obama

justin walden: Yeosu, Oh Beautiful Yeosu

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vanessa lopez: One Size Does Not Fit All

dustin wilshire: my grandpa was gay

ryan rutherford: Science Faction

Science is not simply the best means to understand our world but, as Ryan Rutherford suggests in his latest column, a gateway to unprecedented wonder.

by brent schanding

Departments 6

Letter from the editor 9

the think tank 12

the intro On the Cover pro Baseball player ryan sadowski photographed exclusively for neh by luc bonnici on the streets of Seoul, South Korea. photoshoot scheduling and direction by Dustin Wilshire

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the forum NEH

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10.11

CULTURE FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

(continued from page 3)

The Cover Story 34

ryan sadowski

Like many foreigners in Korea, Ryan Sadowski has documented his life online. One major difference, though – he’s a starting pitcher for the Lotte Giants. We gained his perspective on baseball and life, as well as some possible insight into why the Lotte Giants asked him to stop making his famous videos. by dustin wilshire

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Letter from the editor

Long Live Gender Stereotypes ender stereotypes, accept it or not, are a backbone of our society and culture: if not for their validity then for their comedic value. We perpetuate them all the time without even knowing we’re doing so because, ultimately we are trying to understand each other. Or, impress each other. Is there a man out there who isn’t impressed to see a woman chug a pint of beer? Or a woman that isn’t the least bit bemused to hear that a heterosexual man has read Eat, Pray, Love and then wanted to see the movie?

I recently read an article on cracked.com called “6 Absurd Gender Stereotypes (That Science Says Are True)” and there are some interesting (though potentially unreliable) scientific data that suggests that the stereotypes we joke (and complain) about could actually hold some truth.

For example, the cracked article makes mention of women’s inability to properly drive or park a car. The article proposes that over humanity’s evolution, man has developed a keen sense of direction as a result of having to hunt, find food and take it back to their pregnant female partner (much like when a father-to-be is sent out at 2am for a bucket of Häagen-Dazs).

Research contends that the male’s ability to find his way back to his camp/ village/cave has less to do with having stopped to ask for directions and more to do with testosterone and the natural urge to keep a mate pregnant and continue the bloodline. Another study found that men surpass women in their spatial ability at a ratio of 4:1, allowing men to see things three dimensionally and orient their internal compass better than women. Science out of the way, every woman I have ever driven with – from my mother to my wife – has been an impulsive driver; by that I mean that they have either been incredibly offensive or defensive, with no middle ground, when it comes to interacting with other motorists. Case in point: on the seventh and eighth episodes of this season’s Jersey Shore, little meatball Snookie crashed into the back of an Italian cop car after a tirade of horn honking and bird flipping at other drivers. Justice served or impulsive defensiveness at its finest? It’s an extreme example but a perfect one at the same time because our little Snookie is a walking, talking, tequila-guzzling gender stereotype.

Granted, it could be all for show but even so, the fact that 8.5 million people in the United States tune in on average per week to watch the antics of six socially retarded guidos and guidettes says to me that we (as a culture) are generally okay with gender labels.

And are we okay with gender labels? For the most part, gender stereotypes are either completely true or as absurd as old wives’ tales. Take, for example, the common notion that men are pigs. Pigs, in every sense of the word: men don’t clean up after themselves, we leave the seat up, we objectify women, we drink too much and talk too little and the odd part is that if a man is guilty of any of those things, it’s because our mother’s haven’t raised us right. It’s a man’s lack of couth but a woman’s fault he acts that way.

There’s a lyric in a famous old time country song by Randy Travis that says “old men sit and talk about the weather/old women sit and talk about old men” and it’s all too true. That’s how things work. Men act stupid because our culture has stereotyped us into a role and women rebut by complaining about it (and vice versa). As a culture, we’re fine with labels like men are naturally the heroes and ‘women need saving’ because, as a people, we don’t know any better. From the days when Humphrey Bogart helped Ingrid Bergman rescue her not-so-dead husband in Casablanca, men have been culturally disposed to being in the role of the superman.

Gender stereotypes are labels we can’t live without and are responsible for some of the greatest cinematic and television relationships and plots of all time. Not acknowledging the necessity of gender labels would be like saying All in the Family wasn’t one of the greatest shows of all time. Without gender stereotypes, what would women talk to each other about? What reason would men have to go out with their buddies to drink or to go golfing?

Because really, why would a sport like golf have been invented in the first place if it wasn’t for the fact that 15th century Scotsmen needed to get away from their wives?

C.J. Koster-Allen

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A Taste for

Russian Beer

in South Korea

According to data from the international research agency, Canadean, South Korea is the fifth largest beer market in Asia. The main players in the South Korean market are Hite Brewery Co., with 57% market share, and ABInBev, with 41%. The import segment of the market, mainly consisting of brands from Europe, America and Asia, accounts for around 40 million litres. Russian brewing is represented in South Korea by Baltika.

Throughout the world, the Baltika brand has long been associated with the modern face of Russia. Currently, Baltika has a presence in over 70 countries, including Western Europe, North and South America, Africa, the Asia-Pacific Region, and the Middle East. A range of Baltika brews are made under licence in the CIS countries and in Europe. Baltika accounts for approximately 70% of all Russian beer exports.

Since 2005, Baltika beer has been shipped regularly to South Korea. The brand is positioned in the premium segment in the country, with the retail cost of a 0.5 litre bottle of beer at KRW 3200. The main sales channels are ethnic retail (restaurants offering Russian, Central Asian, Caucasian, and Ukrainian cuisine, as well as Russian grocery stores) and fashionable bars and cafés attracting an international clientele, such as 까페 드 벨로타 (‘Café De Bellota’) and 맥주창고 (‘Beer Depot’). In 2010, Baltika beer began to be offered at a number of prestigious Seoul hotels.

Baltika is currently one of the largest Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) companies in Russia and Eastern Europe. It was founded in 1990.

Through the use of modern equipment and cutting-edge technologies, Baltika has consistently produced top-quality products, allowing the company to become the market leader in Russia in 1996. Since then, the company has maintained its position and currently commands 39.2% of the Russian beer market. Baltika breweries are located in 10 Russian cities, with a combined capacity of over 50 million hectolitres of beer per year. Baltika has been part of the Carlsberg Group since 2008.

Throughout its existence, Baltika has paid special attention to quality—Baltika’s breweries boast state-of-the-art equipment, cutting-edge quality management systems, and only the finest ingredients are used in production.

Collectively, the company’s brands cite around 600 Russian and international awards received at industry and consumer competitions. For example, Baltika No. 3 Classic won a silver medal at the Superior Taste Award competition, held by the International Taste & Quality Institute in Brussels.

Baltika 4 Original was listed among the 50 best brews worldwide, as part of the annual International Beer Challenge. In 2008, the collection was awarded another gold medal at the European Beer Star Awards in the Red and Amber Lager category.

Baltika 6 Porter won a silver medal at the World Beer Cup, held by the American Brewers Association. In 2009, it won the title of World’s Best Stout/Porter at the fourth international World Beer Awards in London.

In December 2008, Baltika participated in the World Beer Championships, the oldest beer competition in the USA. As in previous years, the competition jury comprised both professional experts and beer aficionados.

Baltika 7 Export won the silver in the Dortmunder/Lager category and was named ‘Best’ in the European Lager Styles category in the prestigious international contest BrewNZ Beer Awards in New Zealand.

Baltika 9 Extra impressively won ten awards at various international contests, including a silver medal at the Superior Taste Award in Brussels, one of the most prestigious competitions recognizing product quality in the world.

According to Euromonitor, the Baltika brand currently boasts the highest overall sales volume in Europe, and is one of the three most valuable Russian brands.

In 2011, Baltika beer started to be sold at South Korea’s largest retailers: Lotte Mart and Lotte Department Store. Beer lovers enjoy Baltika 7 Export in Lotte Mart and a full range of Baltika 3 Classic, Baltika 6 Porter, Baltika 7 Export and Baltika 9 Extra in Lotte Department Store. With the launch of sales at the largest South Korean retailers, Baltika is confident that interest in the company’s beer will rise significantly throughout the country.

The official distributor in South Korea: Baltika Korea Co., Ltd. Telephone: 02-846-3140 www.baltika.com

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NEH

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s y NEH o b the founding editor

publisher / editor in chief

photography director contributing editor editor at large

C.J. koster-allen

c.j. koster-allen

luc bonnici (lucb@nehmagazine.com) dustin wilshire (dustinw@nehmagazine.com) ryan rutherford (ryanr@nehmagazine.com)

director of corporate development

jonathan beaton

copy editors

ryan rutherford

contributing writers

dennis pyon, ryan rutherford, brent schanding, justin walden, todd E. Williams, dustin wilshire

designers contributing photographers & artists

office address and information

kelvin brassbridge, daniel sanchez, brent schanding luc bonnici, kelsey smith, philippe teston

office phone: 032.323.7472 daewoo myville 1160-1 central park 611 jung-dong, bucheon south korea

advertising in q uiries

advertising@nehmagazine.com 032.323.7472 c.j. koster-allen (english service) jinah kim-allen (korean service)

submission in q uiries

submissions@nehmagazine.com contact whisper chase (whisperc@nehmagazine.com)

general in q uiries

info@nehmagazine.com content: editor@nehmagazine.com photography: luc bonnici (lucb@nehmagazine.com) design: lillian rihela (lillianr@nehmagazine.com) events: maria napitupulu (marian@nehmagazine.com) korean assistance: jinah kim-allen (jinahka@nehmagazine.com)

organization

neh media is a division of neh organization neh magazine is published monthly throughout the year. the editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees, or assurances with regard to goods or services advertised in this issue. no part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole, without the written consent of the publisher. the opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent those of the editors or neh organization.

neh magazine is a registered trademark of neh organization 2011 Š all rights reserved.

Brent schanding

Brent Schanding is a Kentucky-born journalist who’s worked as an editor, writer, designer, and photographer for a number of publications in America and Asia. He initially came to South Korea for a three-month visit, but fell in love with the people and culture and never returned home. Schanding is a morning person who enjoys strong coffee, spicy food and stiff gin and tonics. He’s currently learning Korean and trying to unravel the many mysteries of this country—namely, why Koreans serve pickles with spaghetti.

think tank

A Selection of This month’s contributors

Dennis pyon

Architects are mostly artists who were too afraid of starving. So after 10 years as one of those, Dennis Pyon is AWOL in Korea with the woman of his dreams, exploring the Motherland amidst the chaos of screaming kindergartners. His slanty eyes belie the fact that there’s more maple syrup than Kimchi coursing through his veins. He’s both a lover, and a fighter, but aside from the ring, nature is his favorite playground (minus the mosquitoes). He appreciates the finer things, like classical music and fine dining, but, given the choice, will unabashedly opt for the cheeseburger and fresh Hip-hop beats most days of the week.

justin walden

A son of the Pacific Northwest, Justin Walden came to Korea in the summer of 2008. He’s been here ever since with occasional trips to southeast Asia and back home to stock up on good times, good beer, and clean air. Loving the simple life he left Seoul in 2010 and traded it in for life, on the coast. He now lives in Yeosu where he teaches, writes, explores, and wards off that desire for a cold northwest brew with bowls of dongdongju until the city of Stumptown finally calls him back home.

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food

& dining

Vatos Urban Tacos eat, drink, chill, and get ready for real tacos words by Sae-hee Burke / photography by philippe teston

From what I’ve heard from the Los Angelos kids I’ve met is, nothing beats real Mexican food.

Coming from Vermont (and Massachusetts) the closest I’ve come to it are the organic local beans simmered in GMO-free vegan taco seasoning or Taco Bell. I’ve heard so much gusto and passion spilling from those groaning Los Angelinos that I’m craving it through them. Mexican food is, essentially non-existent around these parts. I mean real Mexican food. Korea provides an uneducated attempt at the cuisine, not to hate, but Korea does Korea’s food great; the best, but in other culinary attempts, hit the books and board them planes.

In a matter of weeks, Kenneth Park is opening Vatos Urban Tacos, a real taco joint, packed with fusion Korean flare. Keeping true to his core, this Los Angelino knows what he is doing. His genuine love and passion for bringing quality to the food is infectious.

Beyond charming and well-read, Kenneth gives off that perfect LA vibe–chill, humble, articulate, and full of knowledge.

“I find a lot of pleasure through pleasing people through food and drink. I really, really love to dine, and I love to eat, and I love to cook. Just...when you crave something so much and you can’t get it, and it’s not available to you, you kind of go crazy.”

Kenneth grew up eating the best Mexican and Latin foods. The LA markets offered ingredients such as fresh tortillas, spiced beans, fresh cilantro, and local avacados. He also grew up with Blood In, Blood Out, the Chingu for the Mexican and Latino community. That movie inspired the name for Vatos Urban Tacos. “[Blood In, Blood Out] has that solid infinity. ‘Vatos vatos vatos, forever,’ Vatos means ‘hey homie’ amongst friends. I thought the name was comedic; my LA crew thought it was silly. I did some focus groups, and we were in-between names. It was Tacorea or Vatos. Tacorea sounds too much like Lotteria, and has a cheap connotation to it. I said, ‘Vatos’ and they (the focus group) 12

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“More than anything, we want to provide good food and good times. Our slogan is eat, chill, and drink.”

were like ‘Vatos so good’ and I said “Do you know what it means?

‘Doesn’t matter, we like.’ I was really humbled by the naming because, by Western standards, they (Korean food chains) have a lot of names that don’t make sense.”

This is Kenneth’s first restaurant, but not his first business project. Prior to Seoul, he tackled a family business. “My dad is like a mad Korean scientist. He invented these gold training products and I always disregard his ideas but sometimes I think one will do all right. I made him a deal: I’d write him a business plan and we would enter it into the Boston-wide business collegiate competitions. If we won, we’d start the business, and we ended up winning. We won on the graduate level. We did that for four years, we did an infomercial, we had gold sponsors, the whole shebang.”

Kenneth came Seoul-side after doing the hagwon deal for over a year. He realized it wasn’t for him and food was something he had always wanted to do.

“Mexican food and Californians, Angelinos in general, we have such a close tie with Mexican food. And the great thing about Mexican food is the flavor profiles are similar with Korean profiles. The palates are harmonious with one another. Koreans love Mexican food, and Mexicans love Korean food. The spiciness, the marinades, the rice.”

Vatos Urban Tacos will bring a fusion-feel to Mexican fare.

There will be a new concept of tacos and food. It may not be authentic like loads of tapas and tamales, but there will be a focus on tacos. Vatos will be serving up an Insanata Baha Fish Taco, a play on kimchi salsa, a real pork belly samgyupsal taco, classic carne asada, and lots more. A couple of dishes that are sure to please any omnivore will be the Mexican meatball (dished up with a chipotle and adobo sauce) and the pork belly kimchi french fries.

“It’s going to be french fries topped with chopped-braised pork and sauteed kimchi on top. It’ll be our take on chili cheese fries, Korean style.”

Asforusvegankids,there’srumorofsomevegan-friendlytacosin the works!

There will also be some classic drinks, real big margaritas, that Kenneth assures me are “really, really good.” One of their signature drinks involves a margarita with a beer bottle in it. So as you drink, the beer drains (look out for the Dos Mariotos!).

The food will be made to order too, for guaranteed freshness!

But the most exciting part of Vatos may very well be the fresh tortillas. Kenneth wants to provide fresh, quality, and great food.

Vatos Urban Tacos will be located in a new street in Itaewon, (the alley right behind Outback) and Kenneth hopes it will become a focal point. He wants to put this street on the map. In the middle of this month, make sure to kick it at Vatos Urban Tacos, a real taco bar that’s urban and chill, free of sombreros and mariachi music. Vatos Urban Tacos is a must for when you’re craving quality tacos.

“More than anything, we want to provide good food and good times. Our slogan is ‘eat, chill, and drink’. Like, that’s an LA thing, it’s all we want people to do.”

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life

& culture

Adventurous Seoul This month NEH Magazine explored a few activities which will surely get your adrenaline pumping and heart accelerating. You could join a local sports team, watch a baseball game at Jamsil Sports Complex, or go hiking. Cycling along the Han River or Cheonggye Stream is popular largely due to the modernized and long-stretching cycling paths. If you’re brave enough, you can try mountain biking the ubiquitous granite peaks surrounding Seoul. If Jeju Island is on your travel itinerary, then research scuba diving, especially if you have your diving license. words & photography by iga motylska

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If you miss driving your car but want to avoid the tightly-packed traffic; or if you experience the deep-seated urge to feel like a Formula One driver, or at least as close as you can get to it in Seoul, then you should try kart racing. The track is 320 meters in length and is located on the banks of the Han River. Just looking at these hairpin bends will get the racer in you revved up. A one-seater go-kart will cost you KRW 15,000 for 10 minutes and a two-seater KRW 20,000. If you come in a group of ten or more people you’ll receive extra racing time on the track. Otherwise the entire race track can be rented out for KRW 330,000 for thirty minutes. You can also try sprint kart racing: these go-karts have 1000cc gasoline engines and their top speed reaches 80km/h. However, you will have to pay extra if your need for speed is to be satisfied: KRW 40,000 for ten minutes. You need to have good control of the wheel, because there aren’t any rubber tire barricades to act as cushioning should you spin out of control. They’re open all week from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except on Mondays and rainy or snowy days. Please make a reservation at 02-420-3886 for groups of ten or more. You can experience the thrill at Tancheon parking lot in Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu. Get off at Jamsil Sport complex, Line 2, Exit 5 or 6. Walk straight, past the baseball stadium on your right hand side, turn right at the traffic lights, keep left and walk straight into the parking lot.

While there are numerous places to go bungee jumping in South Korea, NEH suggests the crane bungee jump over Yuldong Lake in Bundang-gu.

Although the earliest known forms of bungee jumping were performed as a show of bravery and as a rite of passage into manhood, these days it’s the

feeling of free falling that becomes so addictive. Despite the fact that bungee jumping inevitably involves risks, it is reassuring to know that certain standards and guidelines need to be adhered to and that harness fittings are double-checked and secured in order to ensure safety. The bungee jump is located in Yuldong Park, the perfect place to walk-or run-out some pre-jump jitters. It’ll cost you KRW 25,000. It opens at 10 a.m. and closes at 5 p.m. and doesn’t run on windy or rainy days. Call this number for further information: 031704-6266. From Seoheyeon Station, Bundang Line, you can take the 15 or 15-1 bus to Yuldong Park. It will take approximately 10 minutes. Otherwise a taxi will cost less than KRW 4,000. There is also a 50-meter high bungee jump located in the natural environment of Cheongpyeong River Land in Gyeonggi-do. Contact them on: 031-585-5525. The water beneath the jump is 10 meters deep to ensure your safety, it’ll cost you KRW 30,000. They are open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.. You can take a train or bus to Cheongpyeong. While you’re there you can also participate in water sports such as water skiing, jet skiing, and banana floats.

If you enjoyed the water sports at Cheongpyeong then perhaps you should spend a weekend in Inje, in Gangwon province, east of Gyeonggi province. It is an energetic hub of sporting activities. If water rafting or kayaking is something you would like to experience or become better at then look no further.

The numerous rivers and streams making their way through Gangwon province have rapids of varying length, speed, and depth. This way you can experience more bouts of breath-holding as you become more advanced. Dong and Naerincheon rivers are the favorites. As you’re rafting, the beautiful surroundings and valleys will keep you in awe. Have a look at the very helpful provincial website: en.gangwon.to or the Official Korea Tourism Organization website: english.visitkorea.or.kr both will suggest numerous outdoor adventure resorts. During peak season a few resorts offer a packaged deal which makes things that much easier. They collect and drop you off in Seoul and provide an entire day of rafting for as little as KRW 50,000. Paragliding off mountain tops will help you dry off. Inje can be reached by express bus.

Be sure to go before winter advances in the beginning of November.

If you’re set on staying in or close to Seoul for some adventure then consider windsurfing. For more details see the Windsurfing Hiwind Club: hiwind.kr. Meetup.com and Facebook are also great resources; use them to find out about upcoming sporting or hiking events. Feel free to create your own event and let the adventure begin.

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life

& culture

Book review

Cr

Review by ryan rutherford

aftw

orksTaphouse.co

m

Smile While You’re Lying

by Chuck Thompson As a man who has seen and done much, Chuck Thompson, on paper, is the perfect subject for a memoir. Smile While You’re Lying is, thanks to its central inspiration and the sheer quality of its writing, not merely a good idea in potentia, but Thompson actually manages to deliver some impressive goods along the way.

While laying claim to being one of the first English teachers hired by Japan’s famous JET program in the late ‘80s and later playing drums in a few bands, Thompson’s primary occupation for most of his professional life has been travel writing. His first book is in substantial part an earnest corrective to what he sees as an industry that is ever more intent on promoting sanitized and clichéd public relations at the expense of accurate appraisals of the locales under review. Much of what he writes about the nature of tourism will resonate uncomfortably with many of us regular travelers who have been guilty of being an informal part of the tourist hordes who flock to new destinations en masse for a taste of the authentic or exotic, two qualities most often vaunted by travel writers. However, usually upon arrival at a locality promising such features we rarely, if ever, find these expectations met precisely because so many other Lonely Planet reading losers (I mean wonderful people) thought they would be the first, or among the first, to go where few people have gone before. As an aside and word of warning, Thompson reserves particular ire for Lonely Planet guides, as he sees the publication being unnecessarily condescending to its readership and too self-consciously centered on appearing hip.

Smile While You’re Lying is a book to thoroughly savor for a number of reasons related both to content and form. The writing is by turns hilariously caustic and etymologically rich while the subject matter is consistently informative on a multitude of topics. To the many English teachers in Korea, the chapter on his experiences in Japan as an ESL instructor for two years will very likely ring all too true and inspire more than the odd-knowing smirk, if not outright chuckle. Thompson further provides illuminating discussions on the Cold War; the use of English as an international language to primarily promote the interests of capitalism; plus a wealth of detail on America’s brutal involvement with the Philippines for over a century and some of Thompson’s own occasionally hair-raising adventures in the country. We are even given historical and socio-political insight into the author’s home state of Alaska, while later being regaled with his wild escapades in Thailand and a bizarre encounter with a few psychotic, young homeless Germans who live in a converted prison in the eastern town of Magdeburg only a few years after the country’s unification. Other chapters include a peek behind the opulent curtain of the Caribbean’s resorts and pristine beaches and the author’s poignant personal take on the iconic Miracle on Ice. This is the famous ice hockey match between the USA and Russia on Lake Placid in the semi-final of the 1980 Winter Olympics, where the heavily unfavored American team miraculously emerged triumphant against their mighty Cold War rivals.

Examined cumulatively, Smile While You’re Lying achieves feats most authors can only dream about. As suggested earlier, the book manages to be as entertainingly educational as it is lexically lush. Possibly of more value is that throughout this freshman effort the writer manages to constantly open the reader’s eyes to a world beyond shimmering surfaces, in this instance the artificial edifice purposely created by the tourist industry, of which travel writing is, depressingly, an all too vital adjunct. If this rare combination of traits is not enough to recommend Smile While You’re Lying as a highly worthwhile read, then you, as a reader might be impossible to please.

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Hongdae is hands down the most popular weekend party venue in Seoul. Located near Hongik University, it is overflowing with university students and expats, which is why this month’s female bartender fits right in: she is a student herself.

Music Bar, more commonly known as B2, is located on the same street as FF Club and Gogos. It makes for a good venue for warm-up drinks before you get your party started. They will also happily entertain you until the early hours of the morning if you choose to stay. And you might decide to stay when you find out that they have an unlimited beer special for KRW 10,000 every evening. Judging from the fun we had taking pictures, Lee Na Young is an easy-going and fun-loving individual who isn’t afraid of being herself or acting silly if the situation calls for it. This is exactly where she pictures herself for the time being: in vibrant Hongdae where once her shift finishes she can have a night out on the town with her friends.

Bartender at: Music Bar or B2 Name: Lee Na Young Age: 20

Astrological sign: Scorpio

Chinese Zodiac sign: Monkey Blood type sign: B

Interests: She is a keen music lover.

Hobbies: Watching romantic comedies and dancing Likes: Her job–loves it in fact Dislikes: Lack of sleep

What she finds sexy in a man: Dimples–they’re so cute

Things you don’t know about her: She likes styling her hair with hair extensions.

Her favorite drink: Blue Sapphire

Her favorite drink to make: Blue Sky which consists of Vodka, Triple Sec, Blue Curacao and Bacardi. It is set alight and consumed with a straw. words & photography by iga motylska

You can see her in person at: Music Bar 408-6, Seokyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul.

You can contact the owner of Music Bar: 010-9740-0727.

nominate a bartender: editor@nehmagazine.com

NEH

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words & Photography by Maria Napitupulu

“There must have been hundreds upon hundreds of wildebeests grazing.

We turned off the motor and sat in silent awe as they meandered past us listening to them grunt and snort.�

After a summer of torrential storms, I was more than ready to leave the soggy concrete jungle of Seoul and meet my friends Kayla and Joel in Tanzania. I was ready for some adventure! It was time to spice things up and awaken the senses. There’s something magical about Tanzania— home to the towering Mount Kilimanjaro, the famous Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, and Spice Islands of Zanzibar. Wanting the best of both worlds, we decided to combine an unforgettable wildlife safari with some R&R in paradise.

As the plane made its descent towards Kilimanjaro Airport, I felt my adrenaline rush seeing Africa’s tallest peak and the world’s tallest freestanding mountain. I know, it’s not the same as actually standing on the summit of Africa, but the majestic site filled me with excitement. It was magical to see this place in real life and not as a picture in a book or on TV. I met my friends in Arusha, Tanzania’s “safari capital” and gateway to the great game parks of the north. If a safari is at the top of your “must do” list, I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to research, plan, and shop around after the experience I had. Careful planning will help alleviate disappointment that may arise on such adventures. Our night ended at Arusha Backpackers, a popular guesthouse located right in the middle of town. This little hostel has an affordable restaurant with a view and a rooftop bar; a great place to meet other fellow travelers.

Early the next morning, we were on a bus to Wasso, to visit Kayla and Joel’s Maasai friends and to be closer to Serengeti National Park. I was captivated by the dramatic and varied landscape, of the vast stretches of plains, grasslands, and some desert-like terrain. Occasionally, you could see animals. It was how I pictured Africa to be.

The next day was spent visiting the Maasai, pastoral nomads who maintain the same traditional, cattle-centric lifestyle they have for centuries. They were such hospitable people. I felt welcomed into their home (boma). Kayla and I joined the men at the goat feast and ate some soup. Women are not normally invited into that inner circle, which was an honor. I felt truly blessed to have had an authentic experience, knowing most tourists are never able to have this genuine interaction.

We spent our time searching for the ‘Big Five’ – lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, and rhino.

The experience was surreal.

The moment has arrived! Serengeti, meaning “endless plains” in Maasai, is where you can find the quintessential image of Africa’s wildlife.

To me, the Serengeti is the Discovery Channel or National Geographic as a child I dreamed of going but I never thought I’d make it to the world’s greatest game reserve. The annual Great Migration and its huge concentration of wildlife is the biggest attraction. Sadly, we missed the Migration but there isn’t a bad time to visit the Serengeti as every season has a special highlight. We spent our time searching for the “Big Five” - lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, and rhino. The experience was surreal.

We had another early start and we were off to Ngorongoro Crater, the largest intact volcanic caldera in the world. The first view of it took my breath away! Ngorongoro Crater has often been described as The Eighth Wonder of the World and Africa’s Garden of Eden. As we descended into the crater, anticipation and excitement consumed me as I continued my search for the Big Five, and the other wildlife in the park. We were not disappointed as the abundance of animal inhabitants became evident. As much as I loved Serengeti, Ngorongoro won my heart.

Later that day, we drove right through a small army of wildebeest, intermingled with some zebra. There must have been hundreds upon hundreds of wildebeests grazing. We turned off the motor and sat in silent awe as they meandered past us—listening to them grunt and snort. As we were leaving the park we saw two lions stalking a zebra, we paused to watch their stealthy movements, but were unable to see the conclusion, as the park closed.

After our whirlwind adventure and days of rising before the sun, we were ready to wind down. The exotic spice island of Zanzibar, with its white sand beaches and turquoise blue waters, has a unique history and rich culture. For a bit of history, explore Stone Town and walk through the winding alleyways. Visit a spice plantation, delight your senses and learn about the different spices and their various uses. We headed to Paje and stayed on the beach at Ndame Beach Lodge. It was paradise.

As I departed Kilimanjaro Airport I reflected on our amazing adventure. Tantalizing Tanzania will change how I see the world.

NEH October 2011

19

Run, Oscar, Run South-African athlete inspires people with disabilities and others

by Jennifer Ross

Oscar Pistorius played a vital part in South Africa win-

ning silver medals in the 4x400m relay this summer at Daegu’s World Championships. The double amputee has been given the green light to compete at the next Summer Olympics in London despite being a lightning rod for controversy in the world of athletics. Nicknamed “Blade Runner” by his fans, Pistorius runs on two prosthetic legs which use carbon-fiber prosthesis technology.

He was barred in 2007 from competing against able-bodied men because the International Association of Athletics Federations, the international governing body of athletic competition, claimed his “Cheetah legs,” as they’re called, gave him an unfair advantage. A year later, that decision was overturned when it was found that the prosthetics gave him no clear advantage in competition. The 24 year-old underwent a procedure to have his legs amputated below the knee because of a condition that caused him to be born without bones in his lower legs. He began competing in disabled sports and then transitioned to competing against able-bodied men.

An inspiration to some, he’s been called an “embarrassment” by others. Pistorius just takes it all in stride. Now, after his success at the competition in Daegu, he is looking to qualify for the Paralympics or the Olympics next year —perhaps even both. He spoke to NEH Magazine about life both on the track and off it.

What keeps you grounded?

My friends and family keep me grounded and also, at the end of the day I am just trying to be the best athlete I can be. I have been fortunate to have a lot of support in my life and a great team around me involved in my coaching, but I take each new experience as it comes.

What’s your greatest source of inspiration?

My grandparents were when I was growing up, as I was taught and encouraged that you can do anything in life that you set your heart and mind to.

What does your training entail?

I have adapted my training over the past couple of years so that I am really focusing on being the best athlete I can be. This is a mix of track and gym sessions with my coach Ampie Louw, but it is also about recovery.

This is as important as the training itself.

How do you mentally prepare yourself for a race?

It starts the night before the race, getting into the mindset and visualizing the race. I do have nerves before the race but the great Michael Johnson said that your nerves are a reflection of one’s ambition.

When you’re not running or training what occupies your time?

I am interested in a lot of sports and have played a lot of sports in my life.

I am also very passionate about the two landmine projects I am involved in– Salt of Africa and the Mineseeker Foundation. Patrons include Sir Richard Branson, Brad Pitt and Nelson Mandela, and I am passionate about helping people who have been sadly maimed through landmines.

I visited several projects in Mozambique and have seen the effect the landmines have. We are working to provide mobile prosthetic laboratories that can visit areas affected by landmines and provide prosthetics.

Why is it so important to you to compete at the Olympics?

I have big hopes for medals at the Paralympic Games in London. The organizing committee has put great efforts into taking the Paralympic Games to new heights and I feel that the Games could be the best ever. As far as the Olympics are concerned, it would be a great thrill to compete and I am sure that Lord Coe and his team will stage an incredible event.

I have seen what sport can do for a nation with the Rugby World Cup in South Africa, and more recently, the FIFA World Cup. It can unite a nation and I am sure that the UK – and the world – will be very proud of the London Olympic and Paralympic Games. It is my dream to compete in the Olympics and Paralympics in London.

Who do you look up to and admire?

I have a lot of admiration for athletic greats, including Michael Johnson, and think that Colin Jackson and Frankie Fredericks are real role models for the sport in the way they conducted themselves so passionately and professionally. Off the track, I am a huge fan of Valentino Rossi and take a lot of inspiration from his achievements.

Besides, your goals on the track what other goals do you have for the following year?

It really is to be the best athlete I can be, continue to work to encourage people with disabilities to take up sport and work towards my goals to compete at the Olympics and Paralympics.

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october 2011

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the forum Ryan Rutherford

The Atrocious Presidency of

Barack Obama

H

ope and change. Black African father and white American mother. Former Harvard Law Review president and constitutional law professor at the University of Chicago Law School. Blessed with powerfully uplifting and poetically dynamic oratorical skills. The slogan and candidate were a marketer’s dream after eight years of what easily ranks as the most abysmal presidency in history. Even with the monumental burden of history and expectation that Barack Hussein Obama was saddled with upon being elected in November 2008, his own presidential tenure has been a horrifying case study not merely in disappointment and dashed expectations, but also in the emergence of an administration in many respects worse than the preceding one.

This might appear to be a shockingly counterintuitive assessment, so for the doubters, some facts…

On his first day in office, Obama promised to close Guantanamo Bay within a year. It remains open. The investment bankers and sundry stock speculators responsible for wrecking the global economy were not merely left unpunished; they were handsomely rewarded with trillions of dollars in bailout money. As I write, the Obama administration is attempting to broker a deal in which those selfsame criminal (er, financial) companies will be granted immunity from any and all civil and criminal lawsuits for the housing sub-prime mortgage fiasco they oversaw in return for a paltry $20 billion in compensation. Even this wholly inadequate amount is likely to be substantially reduced after more lobbying pressure is applied by the financial sector. Consider that the millions who lost their homes still haven’t received a nickel in bailout funds.

If letting the banking class get off scot-free wasn’t bad enough, the Obama “Justice Department” has quashed any and all investigations into the BushCheney torture regime and all other felonies this veritable junta was responsible for in office. Apparently, as per the constitutional law professor, we are supposed to be “looking forward and not backward.” The Obama administration has sought prosecutions against five whistleblowers, more than the three by all previous administrations combined. The treatment of Pfc. Bradley Manning is nothing short of a national disgrace, even though Obama announced to the world that it is in accordance with “American values.” Manning, suspected of passing on classified cables to Wikileaks, was held at Quantico Marine Base in Virginia for ten months. During this time, he was in solitary confinement for 23 hours a day, at one point forced to strip naked for daily inspections, denied access to all media, not even allowed to have a pillow or blanket, and given one hour of “exercise” a day [read: walking around a tiny cell]. This brave young man was subjected to such inhumane treatment all without having been charged with any crime. He has thankfully since been moved to Fort Leavenworth in Kansas. Reports indicate his living conditions have improved, yet the government still hasn’t charged this incredibly heroic individual who should, instead of such disgusting handling, receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom.

Then there is the case of Anwar Al-Awlaki. He is an American-born, Yemen-based cleric who has been linked to the Fort Hood shooter, as well as the unsuccessful Christmas Day and Times Square bombers. To eliminate the threat posed by this man, whose central crime is essentially exercising his First Amendment rights, the Obama Administration has made it “legal” to assassinate any American citizen anywhere in the world without due process. Assassinations are surely now made considerably easier by the regular employment of drones, which boast surgical accuracy without the hassles of deploying troops on the ground. This might explain why more drone attacks occurred during the first two years of Obama’s presidency than during Bush’s two terms combined. Obama has also now expanded drone strikes to a grand, if ignominious, total of six countries: Afghanistan, Iraq, Pakistan, Yemen, Libya and, the latest entry on the list, Somalia. One scarcely knows

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One scarcely knows what to make of the fact that a man responsible for the deaths of so many civilians, a fair number of them children, received the Nobel Peace Prize in 2009. what to make of the fact that a man responsible for the deaths of so many civilians, a fair number of them children, received the Nobel Peace Prize in 2009. Who said the Swedes lack a sense of irony?

On that note, while much was made of the drawdown of US troops in Afghanistan by the end of 2012, there will still be more soldiers in the country than when Obama took office. Some drawdown, from a man who has overseen two troop surges into that intractable conflict. As I write, Defense Secretary Leon Panetta is desperately negotiating with the Iraqi government to extend U.S. presence in that country beyond the withdrawal deadline at the end of this year.

Even domestically, Obama has been a failure, as his “successes” most powerfully demonstrate. According to many economists, among them highly esteemed, prize-winning New York Times columnist Paul Krugman, the $800 billion stimulus was at least half of what it should have been to compensate for the massive downturn caused by the onset of the Great Recession in 2008. As for Obama’s healthcare plan, it basically entrenches the for-profit system that ensures the United States is alone among developed nations in not providing its citizens with national, government-funded healthcare. The U.S. spends more than any other country on healthcare, yet doesn’t have anything like the outcomes seen in other industrialized countries. Then again, what did anyone expect with Obama stating even before negotiations started that a public option was “off the table”?

Obama insisted last year that the Bush tax cuts should expire at the end of 2010. In December of last year, he negotiated a deal to extend unemployment benefits that included an extension of those tax cuts. In the ridiculous, recently concluded charade known as the debt ceiling debate, never before an issue, Obama insisted that the deal to raise America’s debt ceiling prior to the August 2nd deadline should include measures to raise revenue. The final deal comprises $1 trillion in cuts over the next decade with a congressional super committee, composed of six Democrats and six Republicans, to decide by the end of this year on a further $1.5 trillion in cuts, all without any input from the public. After all the manufactured smoke has cleared, there is not even a whisper of raising revenues, which is probably why House Speaker John Boehner, could proudly announce that he got 98% of what he asked for.

It might be comforting to think, as I once did, that Obama is merely spineless, but it is quite another matter to seriously suspect, as I now do, that he has thoroughly absorbed right-wing talking points and free market ideology into the very core of his being. His actions, and even much of his recent rhetoric, make this conclusion all but unavoidable. Despite appearances, and in fact precisely because of his moderate patina, the man is a dangerous ideologue who has wrought immense destruction both on the domestic and foreign policy fronts. Heretical as it may be to utter in certain “liberal” quarters, with Rick Perry or Michelle Bachmann as president, what remains of the American left might finally awake from its extended stupor. Here’s hoping, and not the fake kind once so effectively peddled by Brand Obama ©.

the forum Ryan Rutherford

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NEH

october 2011

23

the forum Justin Walden

Yeosu,

words by justin walden Photography By lyndsie coon

Oh Beautiful

Yeosu.

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the forum Justin Walden

I

n a little more than 200 days, the international spotlight will set its beam on Yeosu, South Korea. The small coastal fishing town will be home to the 2012 World Expo. These expos have run regularly since the first “modern” Expo held in London, England back in 1851, where the steam engine was the showcase. Historically, telephones, cars, and even Ferris wheels have been the main attractions at the expos, but in recent years, the themes have been turning to the environment. The 2005 Aichi, Japan World Expo focused on “Nature’s Wisdom.” While in 2008, “Water and Sustainable Development” was the theme in Zaragoza, Spain.

The 2012 World Expo will be no different. When the doors open on May 12, 2012, they will do so under the theme, “The Living Ocean and Coast.” For the next three months, this small town, home to around 350,000 people, will transform into a major city. As a city that depends so much on the coast, it’s no surprise that the theme of the 2012 World Expo focuses on the sea. Each morning fleets of ships leave the harbor and return in the evening to deposit their catches at the local fish market. As soon as the summer hits, hordes of people take to the local beaches for recreation. The coast is definitely a major part of life in Yeosu, and of course, they want to protect it.

Efforts have been made to clean up the city in preparation for its moment in the sun. New user-friendly bus stops have been put in place. Solar panels now rest atop street lamps in the parks. Bicycle rental stands are placed all over town to help visitors get around. When the spring of 2012 finally arrives, the town and the expo site are sure to have their facelift complete.

There’s one thing, though, that seems to have been forgotten in all this rush to get ready. When the tourists visit the beaches of Yeosu, they’re going to be shocked by the sheer volume of litter. Inviting someone into your town to tell them about the importance of a clean

and healthy ocean, only to have your beaches covered in pizza boxes, soju bottles, and plastic bags is like getting ready for a big date and skipping a vital step. Your hair is combed, you’ve put cologne on, ironed your clothes, and then when the door opens and your date arrives you’ve forgotten about the giant food stain on the front your shirt. You’re likely to get laughed at.

Korea is putting such an effort into making the city look nice that it’s forgetting its front line in the war for the shore. Putting up a carbonneutral building like the Korea Pavilion to present Korea as a key player in the effort to clean up and live as one with the oceans is a great thing...

However, you’re not very likely to be taken seriously when those eight million visitors head to the beach for a day of relaxation and then have to step over bits of styrofoam, Hite cans, and pieces of plastic before they can get to the water (assuming they still want to).

It’s a major task, cleaning up the beaches, and that is why on September 17th, a group of local expats are taking to the shore to do their part.

This place has become our home as well, and we’re just as proud to show it off. It really is a beautiful place, and a good number of the expat community aim to keep it that way. We want to get the word out about the importance of a clean beach on the eve of such an important event. It’s going to be hard and might even require multiple beach-cleans to clean up the coastline before the big day.

Yeosu has a great opportunity. They can demonstrate that it’s possible for a city and country to set high goals for cleaning up the environment and actually meet them through their actions and not just their words. Hopefully this will result in other countries near and far following in the same direction. If little Yeosu can do it, then why can’t Beijing or Houston? It’s time to get ready, clean up, and when the first visitor hits the beach on a sunny May morning, hopefully Yeosu is ready for the stage.

Korea is putting such an effort into making the city look nice that it’s forgetting its front line in the war for the shore.

NEH

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the forum Ryan Rutherford

Science Faction:

The testability of time travel vs. fruitless flights of fantasy Artwork by Kelsey Smith

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the forum Ryan Rutherford

i

n my younger, more fantasy-rich years, I was, along with many boys my age, enamored with the many varieties of fabulousness proffered by the genre known as science fiction, or “scifi” for short. One sci-fi trope in particular regularly attracted my attention, and in fact still consistently commands it. As an idea freighted with many potentially intriguing scenarios, time travel has few obvious equals. It is also one of those concepts that has always seemed less strictly fictional than its brethren in the same generic category. Not so anymore, it has now been confirmed, at least in the provisional sense as is standard scientific operating procedure.

During a recent visit to Hong Kong, I read in the Sunday Morning Post that physicists at the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST) have confirmed Albert Einstein’s theory that nothing travels faster than light, which means that, indeed, “time travel is only possible in science fiction.” Einstein’s special theory of relativity proposes that under no circumstances can anything travel faster than light because the theory of relativity maintains that anything that went faster than light would literally travel back in time. Furthermore, as the article indicated, “anything that attempts this type of travel would have negative mass.”

The central experimental pillar of lead researcher Du Sheng-Wang, and his six-member team at HKUST, demonstrated that a single photon cannot travel faster than the speed of light in a vacuum. The study took three years to complete and according to professor Du, “The results add to our understanding of how a single photon moves [and] also confirm the limit on how fast information travels with light.” Upon first reading the article, I experienced considerable disappointment that hopes of having lunch with Alexander the Great or sniffing cocaine with Sigmund Freud had been forever dashed. The outcome of this research should also serve as a powerful reminder of one of science’s chief benefits, that is, enabling us to understand the world around us with an unrivalled empirical exactitude.

To actively desire the false consolations and cramped perspective of a mythical realm is indicative of a generally weak and intellectually constricted mind. light of limits, it might be justified to see science as a manic robber of imaginative potential and wonder. As Richard Dawkins attempted to show in his book, Unweaving the Rainbow, the scientific worldview, and the mysteries it unearths, has a majesty all its own that deserves to be understood and savored. Regardless of poetry or philosophical musings on the subject, the picture of the world provided by science is the most accurate one available to us, moving and changing only in the direction of greater accuracy rather than due to shifts in fashion or some other arbitrary influence.

To take a survey of some of the amazing facts of science is beyond the scope of this column, but noting a few might suffice. Creationists love to speak about the magnificence of their Abrahamic God, but then proceed to lock all the world’s great moral, historical and scientific secrets in a book cobbled together by Bronze Age peasants who reveal a childishly naïve understanding of everything from menstrual blood to meteorology. To this cretinous crowd, the world was literally created in six days and a global flood engulfed the world entire about 5000 years ago, contemporaneous records be damned. Back in reality, we now have ample evidence to allow us to conclude that the universe is approximately a whopping 13.7 billion

One of science’s chief benefits is enabling us to

understand the world around us with an unrivalled empirical exactitude.

Setting aside the important content of that article in the Sunday edition of Hong Kong’s chief English language daily, there lurked a significant subtext that I simply couldn’t ignore. I was reminded again how science proceeds and advances human knowledge by unlocking mysteries or, more precisely in the present case, bringing us face-to-face with nature’s limitations. By virtue of us being biological entities living in an integrated natural habitat on a planet subject to cosmological constraints, ours is necessarily a bounded existence. While science generally remains a search for where those limitations lie, this search has a habit of rendering, in the clearest light, previously unfathomable vistas against which the most phantasmagorical imaginings of even the most creative thinkers pales into paltry insignificance. I recently heard someone in a talk deliver a quote from Jules Verne who opined, “Reality provides us with facts so romantic that imagination itself could add nothing to them.” The process of discovery, with the scientific method being the most reliable guide yet devised by man, always carries with it this dual-edged sword, one side revealing the truth (or the closest approximation thereof ) while the other correlatively eliminates previously plausible (or often quite implausible) possibilities.

Today one regularly hears from the promoters of religious mysticism or other forms of foolish flimflam, whether homeopathic quacks or faith healers or proponents of post-modernism, that science both takes away mystery and is an enemy of the imagination. This strain of “thought,” a term loosely applied here, usually comes from the same sectors who are clueless about the many astounding revelations that the scientific enterprise has yielded. Furthermore, and clearly related, they tend to maintain allegiance to an empirically unfounded worldview that strangely always seems to suit either their chosen careers or earnestly held convictions rooted in ancient tradition.

Poets have been in on the act too; John Keats famously wrote about how Newton dispelled the poetic magic of the rainbow by elucidating whence its colors derived as a result of his experiments with prisms. Seen solely in the

years old and the earth itself a not so insignificant 4.6 billion years. Now that’s a creation worthy of worship!

How about the very counter-intuitive idea that even something as seemingly dense and indestructible as a diamond consists mostly of open space?

Who would have thought that two objects of different masses fall at the same speed if there is no air resistance? Are you aware that the brain you’re using to read this article consists of 100 billion neurons and is part of a biological mechanism of almost unfathomable complexity? I added almost because the same painstaking procedures, coupled with no small measure of revelatory sparks of insight, are helping to cast impressively detailed light one of the last great scientific frontiers, neuroscience. Yes, many previous assumptions will be overturned, as many already have been, but at the end of it all—an end that in science thankfully never quite arrives—we will have the most lucid picture of our own consciousness that no holy book, twobit merchant of motivational merde, primitive politician, or pathetic peddler of “alternative” remedies will come within even touching distance of rivaling. What we will have to give up in wishful thinking and mere intuitive judgment will be more than made up for by, to echo Darwin’s closing line in his world-altering The Origin of Species, the grandeur of this view of life that places its focus squarely on reality’s actual, and awe-inspiring, dimensions.

Returning to the idea of science placing necessary limits on our comprehension of the natural world, and thus supposedly stealing away the rich possibilities of the imagination, I hope I have made it clear that, in truth, the complete opposite usually holds. To actively desire the false consolations and cramped perspective of a mythical realm is not indicative of a poetic or imaginative mind, but rather a generally weak and intellectually constricted one. In closing, I defer to the incomparable Dawkins, who wrote the following in the introduction to Unweaving the Rainbow: “The feeling of awed wonder that science gives us is one of the highest experiences of which the human psyche is capable [page xii]”.

NEH

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the forum Vanessa Lopez

One Size

Does Not Fit All

Everything is going right. You’re feeling good and your partner is feeling good. You’re just about to make that glorified home run, but before you advance to fourth base, you grab some protection—what will you reach for? Condoms made from Korea or something a little more familiar? Say something like a Western brand?

Photography by Luc Bonnici

ost male foreigners are faced with this dilemma while living in Korea. Those who thought about bringing their own supply from their homeland need not worry, but for the rest, it’s a complicated matter in choosing how to protect your meat pipe. Korean condoms are easy enough to find. Start by slowly browsing through Lotte Mart or GS25 aisles and you can usually find the little display of Korean-made condoms located next to toothbrushes or snacks. Try reading the box to discover what size or what this love glove offers in term of pleasure and you may be disappointed. Korean condoms are typically “one size fits all,” which is actually a case of truthful advertising. Most guys can attest to the woes of these condoms when compared to brands they’re used to back home; the number one complaint being they just don’t fit well or that they are way too tight. I can admire a dude who can try to bite the bullet and wear one when the fit is obviously uncomfortable. However, squeezing your friend into something that is way too tight can often lead to latex breakage. And that is just a risk most are not willing to take.

The guy friends I’ve met during my stay here have opened up to me about their nighttime rendezvous precautions. Lloyd, an English teacher, says that even though the fit is very snug he still uses them because it’s safer to be protected than to have nothing at all. And for him, it’s one less thing to worry about. Jeremy, a bartender at a foreigner bar, says he doesn’t bother using any because quite frankly, they just do not fit him properly. He also says that most girls are on some sort of birth control nowadays so he doesn’t feel the need to worry. Yet Brent, an English teacher, says he brought his own 28

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supply from home because he had heard about the issues with Korean condoms from a friend. I’ve heard as a departing gift males share their unused leftover Westerniz condoms when they go back home. I met a guy who showed me his stash of Trojans, which he said he acquired after one of his male teachers went back home. Sharing with your bros is caring, folks.

My female friends feel the pressure of being in a sexually active relationship here as well, and most take their own precautions by purchasing their own assortment of condoms or by going on the pill. One gal pal said she gave up trying to find condoms that work for her and just hoped her partner carried his own because she did her part by taking the pill.

Along with stores such as Lotte Mart and GS25, you can find condoms at any local pharmacy. Most pharmacies keep their goodies over the counter.

Only a select few have them behind the counter. So, after finding your selection on the shelf, take your box and head to the register. The hard part is not being embarrassed when you have a clerk of the opposite sex. I felt the need to take a friend with me to make my first purchase just so I wouldn’t feel like a creeper. Regardless, the male clerk still gave me looks like I was a foreigner up to no good.

the forum Vanessa Lopez

There seems to be a lack of protection options for male foreigners here. Sure, in extreme desperation you can have a friend from home mail you a few boxes or you can order some from various websites, but end up having to pay huge shipping fees.

There seems to be a lack of protection options for male foreigners here.

Sure, in extreme desperation you can have a friend from home mail you a few boxes or you can order some from various websites, but end up having to pay huge shipping fees. Another option is to take a trip to one of the notorious sex shops and find a brand that is more geared and contoured to you and your partner’s liking. These shops are known to offer condoms that cater to various lengths and circumferences for their male clientele. Try hitting up the specialty stores in Seoul to find the goodies you’re seeking.

Foreigner-friendly condom websites shoot up now and then but end up getting shut down. Proceed with caution if you use one of these sites. However, if you find one that is credible, you’re in luck because they usually offer free shipping in Korea and more importantly, your preferred brands.

Guys, you go through a lot trying to work out the best form of protection.

Kudos. Just make sure you find something or a brand that is suitable for you and your partner. Keep the communication open and try different methods until the right one makes itself evident. Be safe and enjoy the home runs!

NEH

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the forum authorwilshire dustin name

my

grandpa

was gay

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the forum Dustin author wilshire name

A million thoughts immediately ran through my head.

You can’t be serious! How do you think you might be gay? Are you saying he grew out of it? I don’t think that’s even possible. If my grandpa was gay, than his relationship with you was forced.

never had much of a grandfather in my life, which was something that bothered me as a child. My mother’s father, Harold, passed away before I was born. He’d had a heart attack in his 50s. Harold was an Army drill sergeant and ultra-conservative Christian man, with a persona much different than mine; I often wonder what our relationship would have been like. My father’s father, Herbert (”Grandpa”), lived in Florida most of my life. He would visit occasionally, and we spoke on the phone during holidays, but I never got to know him well. He moved back to the Pacific Northwest a few weeks before I moved to Arizona for a new job opportunity. I was a young man in my mid-twenties when I moved back to Portland, and I take the blame for not choosing to spend more time with him during this period in our lives. I now live in Korea.

Making matters worse, a giant bomb was dropped on me during an unplanned visit to my grandma’s condo one Sunday afternoon. Sitting on her balcony overlooking the majestic Colombia River, my grandmother, my sister, and I, watched the planes land and take off at PDX, the same thing we had done all those years of my youth. Grandma broke out her old photo albums and the three of us shared memories and reminisced about the past. I was known for breaking everything in sight, including knocking the Mother Mary statue from the wall and kicking the ceramic Christmas tree off the balcony. My brother and his mischievous tendencies as a youth. My sister as the happy go lucky wonderful person that she is.

However when the topic turned to my grandpa, who divorced my grandma just before my parents tied the knot, everything got....well, it got queer. I don’t remember how it was brought into the conversation, but my grandma said that my grandpa went through a time in his life when he was confused. According to her, “He thought for a while that he might be gay.”

A million thoughts immediately ran through my head. You can’t be serious! How do you think you might be gay? Are you saying he grew out of it? I don’t think that’s even possible. If my grandpa was gay, than his relationship with you was forced. This forced relationship resulted in three children. Had he stayed true to himself, he likely would not have married.

No marriage, no children, no grandchildren. NO ME! Kaboom.

My aunt, this same grandfather’s daughter, has been openly homosexual my entire life. To quote the popular phrase from Seinfeld, “not that there’s anything wrong with that.” For me growing up, it was normal to my family that her female “friends” wore their hair short and looked like men. Everything was out in the open. I was taught that some people are born one way, some another, and I can’t recall having witnessed any negativity from my family because of my aunt’s sexuality.

That said, this is my grandpa we’re talking about. Most of my friends speak fondly of their grandfathers as the staunch, patriarchal figure in their families. A wise, rough, strong old man with morals and values from long ago, before our relaxed versions of those ideals were set into motion today. Because of this, you could say the romanticized version of my ideal grandfather would be the rebel like Johnny Cash or the tough guy like

I frequently hear him referred to as the nicest man that ever lived. There was always a smile on his face and a giant hug to accompany it.

John Wayne. These ideas of a grandfather are certainly not gay.

Once I let those thoughts subside, it all began to make sense.

Where did he live during my entire childhood? Florida. Have you ever seen The Birdcage?

What did his “friend” do for a living? He sold shoes at Buster Brown.

This is the same man that refused to drink anything other than Pepsi when he would come for a visit.

Nothing but Pepsi, and I think I recall copious amounts of Red Vines.

What branch of the military did he serve in as young man, fighting bravely for his country in WWII? The Navy. According to Wikipedia, the United States Navy actually considered using the notoriously gay anthem, “In the Navy” by The Village People for recruiting and advertising campaigns. It’s kind of funny to think about the use of a stereotypical gay fantasy for military recruiting, given the Don’t Ask Don’t Tell policies that were later implemented, only recently to be repealed.

Last, there was the way he would refer to his feisty Irish mom. I can still hear it, “Oh Mother!”

Most males hold their grandfathers in the highest regard. When you’re a boy, he is supposed to teach you right from wrong and encourage you to do your best. As a young man, you realize this was person who molded your father into the man he is today. A grandfather can play many roles in the development of a man. Perhaps he is an authority figure. He is a friend, an advisor, a confidant. Most of all, he is someone you can look up to and learn from.

This is most certainly who my grandpa was. He was a veteran who bravely served his country. I frequently hear him referred to as the nicest man that ever lived. There was always a smile on his face and a giant hug to accompany it. He made the time to listen to whatever I wanted to talk about and encouraged me in my many endeavors as I grew up.

My grandpa died earlier this year. Not having the freedom to leave Korea on a whim, I was unable to make it back for the memorial service. Easing my disappointment was the time I was able to spend with him during my vacation home a few months prior to his passing. I’m told that in my absence, our family discussed the comparisons between his character and mine. For this I’m eternally grateful and proud to be his grandson.

The character of a strong man has nothing to do with his sexuality.

My grandpa was gay, not that there’s anything wrong with that.

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No reason to be

angry

화난 곰 Angry Bear set to release second album

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It’s around midnight on a Friday at Woodstock bar in Itaewon and a spirited crowd is dancing to the guitar riffs and drum beats of Westernindie rockers 화난 곰 (Angry Bear).

Suddenly, commotion erupts: An intoxicated Korean patron begins haphazardly wielding a knife at a group of Westerners.

“We look up to see a bunch of our very drunken western friends being threatened by a small group of very drunken Koreans,” recalls Scott Prince, the British co-singer and electric guitarist for Angry Bear.

Initially, Prince says the band was ready to dive off stage and intervene; instead, the group kept playing. The mob eventually subsided, and, by the end of their set both parties were arm-in-arm with big smiles on their faces.

“It’s not the most conventional way to make a new friend,” laughs Prince, who now finds the incident funny.

Why should he be upset? Aside from the occasional drunken bar brawl, there’s really nothing the Bears can be angry about these days.

The band—comprised of Prince and Western indie rockers Ian Chiasson, Patrick Connor and KC Swink—tours all across Korea and books regular gigs around Seoul. Later this month, the band is expected to release its second full-length album, aptly titled “II.” The 10-track production will be the studio follow-up to its inaugural album “I,” released last year.

What’s it sound like?

“We haven’t really had anyone say we sound just like this or that band,” says Chiasson, the band’s Canadian electric guitarist. “There have been comparisons, but never to the overall style— usually to a voice, or song, or particular instrument sound in a song.”

However, with softer electric string and bass sounds—usually tempered by a distinct, head-nodding drumbeat—the band’s growl is arguably worse than its bite.

Angry Bear members say the new album, “II,” is largely influenced by their ex-pat experiences in Korea.

Take this, for example: American-born bassist and vocalist, Swink, was sitting on his roof, watching the sunset when he composed “Truths,” a selfreflecting memoir of scattered thoughts.

The opening line, “The truths I’ve found dissolve within perspective’s gin,” conveys the idea that all truths are relative and subject to one’s perspective, Swink explains.

Swink also wrote and performs another track, “나와너,” (“Why I’m Alive”) completely in Korean.

“We have a good mix of fans,” says Connor, the band’s British drummer, who also speaks Korean. “…And a lot more Koreans are regularly coming to the show.”

That’s why they accommodate their English and Korean-speaking fans by posting information about upcoming shows on their Cyworld, Facebook and Myspace pages in both languages.

Less than a decade ago, the band’s Western-style indie rock would’ve drawn less acclaim from locals. Back then, the Seoul music scene was almost completely dominated by overly manufactured Korean pop groups.

“Now, if you go to Hongdae on a Saturday night there’s a lot of good [indie] Korean bands,” says Prince. It’s proof that Korea’s indie music scene is slowly evolving, they say.

In March, the world-renowned South by Southwest (SXSW) Media and Music Conference in Austin, Texas even featured four indie Korean bands, including the airy sounds of Vidulgi OoyoO, the electro-dance, high-energy rock hybrid of Idiotape, the wild party-rock of Galaxy Express and the hardcore rock sounds of Apollo 18.

“It’s the beautiful tumor on the side of K-pop,” Swink says, of the country’s burgeoning indie scene.

But while greater exposure to foreign-born indie sounds seem to be feeding the infectious spirit behind the Korean music scene—the longterm prognosis of the trend may be uncertain.

“It can be especially hard for foreigners to [sustain] a band,” says Connor. “People leave,” noting that most Westerners are here on short-term teaching contracts. When band members return home, it’s ultimately the demise of the band. “Until then, you live year-to-year,” says Prince. “And if it’s still fun and relatively well received by people, it’s a good enough reason to stick around.”

But fans shouldn’t worry—Angry Bear isn’t ready for hibernation anytime soon.

Although “II” has yet to debut, the band is reportedly six songs into their third album, presumably titled, “III.” Angry Bear’s ”II” should be released this month. It will be available on iTunes, CD Baby, Amazon and other mp3 sellers for less than 10,000 won.

The album can also be downloaded on the band’s social networking websites, keyword: Angry Bear.

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ryan sadowski

Life in Korea Through the Eyes of a Foreign Pro Athlete

Unconventional. Humorous. Dedicated.

Honest. Foreigner. Meet Ryan Sadowski. words by dustin wilshire & photography by luc bonnici

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“I don’t even call it baseball, I call it yagu.

It’s not baseball, it’s yagu because the game requires the same skill set, they’re played very, very differently.”

eing able to experience life in Korea through a foreigner’s eyes is not new. The blogosphere is overrun with good and bad examples. Same goes for internet videos. Your favorite search engine will reveal a multitude of online resources, and a quick visit to an English bookstore will provide what you need in print.

The vast majority of foreigners documenting their experiences in Korea online are English instructors. Apart from them, you can find a handful of business types, perhaps some engineers, as well as a select few who have moved on from teaching into successful earning opportunities in entertainment media like TV and radio. Chances are, however, unless you are familiar with Ryan Sadowski, you haven’t experienced life in Korea through the eyes of a foreign professional athlete.

Sadowski is an American right-handed starting pitcher for the Lotte Giants. We spent some time with him in Gangnam before a late summer preplayoff Saturday game at Jamsil Stadium during an away stretch against the LG Twins. Part of what I learned during our two hours together is that although he and the Lotte Giants call Busan their home, he’s got a ridiculous amount of fans in Seoul. Horns honked and hollers of “Sa-Do-Seu-Ki” (사도 스기) came at us from all directions. Our urban guerilla photography session was frequently interrupted so he could pose for pictures and shake hands with his fans. Luckily for those fans, from the moment he set foot in Korea, Sadowski has been documenting his life by sharing videos online.

Pay a visit to YouTube and look up his channel titled “incugator.” There you will find hundreds of videos offering a glimpse at foreigner life in Korea for someone not only without an E-2 visa, but from an athlete of the highest caliber. You witness English speaking athletes struggling to learn their Korean teammates’ names because of the confusing Romanization of Hangul.

What it’s like to watch a Lotte game from the stands. Examples of Konglish, mixed Korean and English words that most Westerners find humorous. Interviews with Lotte Giants fans and sports broadcasters from around the world. Eating strange burgers in a Japanese McDonalds. Not to mention plenty of joking with his teammates on the bus, in the clubhouse and at dinner. It’s not all about baseball as he tackles subjects like being respectful on the subway, and gives attention to strange public situations you find yourself in as a foreigner living in this Confucian society.

His sense of humor is front and center, enhanced by quick cuts, monologues and the strategic use of slow motion. The music selections are carefully considered, perfectly matching either the tone or the theme of the segment. Most of the videos conclude with Sadowski recapping the week’s events and signing off using his Korean speaking skills (which are pretty good), followed by the list of credits which includes the people that made appearances and the songs that were used.

I asked Sadowski how the video hobby began. “The inspiration behind starting the videos two years ago was to send my wife and family videos of what was going on. I didn’t realize that Lotte fans were going to find me in about two days.” Next, he shared how quickly they took off. “I looked at my fourth video and it got 1,000 hits in two days, and I thought something’s not right. My mom’s not watching the same video a 1,000 times. Then I realized the fans were watching, so I kind of just made it a foreigner’s perspective on Korea.”

Perspective was a common theme during our conversation. It came up as we discussed his thoughts on the actions of other foreigners in Korea, the relationships he has forged with his teammates, why he often reverts to jok36

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ing around with his fans, as well as why so many Koreans have enjoyed his Western approach to documenting an athlete’s life in Korea. Perspective was also given as a possible reason for why he was asked by the Lotte Giants organization to stop making the videos last June. Just where does his perspective come from? Sadowski’s story is one of hard work, a positive attitude and an unconventional approach to not only the game of baseball, but the game of life.

Sadowski grew up in Miami where he had a very successful high school baseball career. He wound up a Gator at the University of Florida (UF). Unfortunately, he wasn’t given the chance to pitch as much as he would have liked. “My first year at UF I had Tommy John surgery, which everyone is pretty familiar with now, where you have your right elbow reconstructed.”

He returned his second year to an all-new coaching staff that had made a lot of changes, including an overhaul of the roster. However, Sadowski says begrudgingly, “They didn’t get rid of me. I wish they would have because I was kind of locked in, stuck at the University of Florida.”

Regarding the end of his university experience and preparation for the draft, he goes on to say, “I played in a summer league the previous year, a collegiate summer league, and I pitched really well. I was really close to graduating so I didn’t want to transfer schools because I would have lost credits.”

Being basically forced to finish college ball at UF, where he got little time on the mound, could have been worse. He’s quick to point out, “I graduated, so I got something good out of it.”

It’s fair to say that at the time of his departure from UF, Sadowski was in a not-so-ideal situation for getting drafted into the big leagues. Giving up is not in his nature, though. Instead, he would throw the scouts a curveball – his mom. As Sadowski tells the story, “I told my mom, ‘We gotta do something to get people’s attention’, so I said, ‘why don’t you call front offices [of Major League ball clubs], and say somebody [a scout] needs to talk to me.’ I got a few return phone calls, and then from there these scouts got to see me pitch, and word spread. All of a sudden I’m throwing in front of 20-30 scouts about two weeks before the draft.”

This out-of-left-field approach paid off. “I got drafted in the 12th round by the [San Francisco] Giants, which in the Major League draft there are 50 rounds, so to get drafted in the 12th round without really playing in college, I was really pleased with that.”

After a rather lengthy career in the minors he found his way to the big leagues as a starting pitcher in the rotation for the San Francisco Giants. He won his first two starts, accumulating thirteen consecutive shutout innings in the process. However, Sadowski would go on to drop his next four. At the end of the season he found himself testing the market as a free agent. After careful consideration of his future, he signed with the Lotte Giants for the 2010 Korea Baseball Organization (KBO) season. San Francisco Giants coach Dave Righetti, well known for his illustrious career in Major League Baseball (MLB) as well as his nickname “Rags,” played an active role in helping him choose where to play.

At the time, Jerry Royster was the manager of Lotte, also well known for his MLB playing and coaching experience. “Rags is good friends with Jerry.

And when I became a free agent, my name was kind of floating around.” Connecting the dots, he tells me, “I respected Rags’ opinion a lot. So when Jerry told me that Rags recommended me to do this, I said, ‘You know what, let’s go with it, let’s see where it takes me.’ I’m in my second year now and I’m enjoying every minute of it.”

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adowski and I talked about differences between baseball in Korea and at home. “It’s funny,” he says, “My response before was, it’s the same game, it’s just a little different. But now, I don’t even call it baseball, I call it yagu. It’s not baseball, it’s yagu because the game requires the same skill set, they’re played very, very differently. The rules every once and a while, I go, ‘Really?’

He provided many examples. In Korea, if a player catches the ball and falls in the stands, it’s considered a dead ball. At home, the ball is live and the player can throw it back in. Also, there are differences in how the players interact with the umpires. At home, in an attempt to learn the strike zone, it’s normal to ask the umpire where he had the pitch. In Korea, they get very angry. There are also differences in the clubhouse. On the road, you don’t shower there, you go back to your hotel in uniform. On the topic of food in the clubhouse he says, “When you eat, it’s a meal, rather than in The States you could go in and grab a snack. Everything that you eat here is for real.”

Still on the topic of rules, I asked about something I saw in video #64, titled Bench clearing almost brawl. “It was last year when Karim Garcia was with us. And this is a great example of the differences.

The catcher blocks home plate. The base runner is supposed to run straight through the plate, so that catcher is supposed to give the runner a base line and tag so he doesn’t get killed.”

That’s how the game is played back home. In Korea, he explains, it’s a little different. “But here, guys will slide right into the catcher, which is really dangerous for the base runner because the catcher has got all of his gear on, and usually the catcher is a pretty big guy. So it’s different, they don’t do that, even if they go in without sliding, it’s not like they are trying to do anything too violent. Whereas in The States, they’re gonna blow you up. Karim ended up doing that and everyone made a huge deal out of it.

And I was like, ‘What, what did he do?’”

The result was what he calls the “Bench clearing almost brawl.” Both benches cleared, as if they were gearing up for a fight, but ultimately, nothing happened.

I asked him about his teammates, to which he responded, “I’ve got a great team. I mean, I’ve heard other foreigners say certain things about their teammates, but I really have great teammates.” He also gave advice on how to be a good teammate by saying, “I’ve tried to accommodate too, I’ve tried to be open and express how I feel, and they’ve done the same. When I show up I feel comfortable. That’s the biggest thing. I say that a lot when I talk to Korean reporters. I try to make myself as comfortable as possible.”

Sadowski shared opinions on how foreigners should represent themselves in Korea. We discussed the subject matter of video #234, Foreigners on the subway. “I always consider myself a guest here. It’s the same thing you’d do in The States. Treat people like you’d want to be treated. You don’t want to go into a place and make a scene. Especially when you look and talk different.” Sadowski continues, “Be a guest, you’re always a guest when you’re here. And they’re pretty cordial hosts, so don’t take advantage of it.”

Back on the subject of his YouTube channel, I asked Sadowski why he thinks he was asked by the Lotte Giants organization to stop making the videos. “It’s a tough, tough thing to answer. But I think some people don’t, especially in Korean culture, and it’s the same thing in The States too, they don’t like change. They don’t like seeing sometimes the truth. Whether it be fun, whether it be negative, they just don’t like to admit that this is the way it’s done. They say, “we don’t really do it that way do we?”

The featured video on his channel right now, and the most recent production, is all in text. In English and Korean, he explains to his YouTube fans that there will be no more videos for the time being. Not fully understanding the power of social media in Korea, Sadowski says that events have transpired and, in the best interests of all parties concerned, he will no longer be posting the weekly videos. In classic Sadowski humor, the soundtrack to the video is the song “It’s Okay” by Nell. Among other subject appropriate lyrics, some of the lines to the song, translated into English, mean: I’m happy that we even had those kinds of memories.

I understand.

That’s what’s hurting me.

Love’s no sympathy.

Watch for yourself to get the full gist of it.

To close out our interview, I asked how he felt about being asked to stop. “I didn’t want to cause any controversy doing it. I was just doing it for fun. So when it became a question of offending or insulting people, I didn’t want to get into that. I’m just trying to have fun and show a different perspective. Maybe it bit me in the butt a little bit.”

Giving up is not in his nature though. Instead, he would throw the scouts a curveball – his mom For updates on Ryan Sadowski follow @incugator on Twitter. Also, he says he will be making some collage videos when he’s back in The States, so add the “incugator” channel to your favorites on YouTube.

Lastly, just where does the name incugator come from?

“It’s just a play on words. It sounds like the word incubator, which really doesn’t have anything to do with it. But my favorite music is by a band called Incubus. I listen to Incubus a lot, and when I was in college I was a Gator [at UF] , so I was like incugator, it sounds like another English word.”

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