Dissertation Thesis Part 1 by Nely Grigelova

More Than Skin Deep

What are the relations of Millennial consumers to their skin and the impact it has on their consumer behaviour ?

Project Declaration This submission is the result of my work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in live with Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in the handbook.

SIGNED: Nela Grigelova

DATE: 26.01.2020

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project. SIGNED:

Nela Grigelova

DATE: 26.01.2020

NELA GRIGELOVA N0756979 WORD COUNT: 7217

CONTENTS 1 Introduction

1.1 Introduction and Rationale

2 Literature review

2.1 The Science of Perfect Face 2.1.1 Social Comparison Theory 2.1.2 Insecurity Sells 2.2 Skin and Psyche 2.2.1 Acne Matters 2.2.2 Mental Health and Psychodermatology 2.3 The Skincare Industry 2.3.1 The Skincare Obsession 2.3.2 Skin and Social media 2.3.3 Male Disruption 2.4 Research Gap

5 5 6 7 7 8

9 9 11 14 15

3 Methodology

3.1 Methodological Structure 3.2 Sample 3.3 Secondary Research 3.4 Primary Research 3.4.1 Quantitative Data Collection 3.4.2 Qualitative Data Collection 3.5 Research Gap

17 17 19 20 20 20 23

4 Discussions

4.1 Chapter 1 Millennialsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Attitudes and Routines 4.1.1 Skincare Regimens and More 4.1.2 Keeping it Simple 4-1.3 Men and Skincare 4.2 Chapter 2 Millennials with Skin Problems 4.2.1 The Impact On the Quality of Life

25 25 26 27 30 30

4.3 Chapter 3 Media aka the Double-Edged Sword 4.3.1 The Influences of Visual Media 4.3.2 The Positive Change 4.3.3 The Flaw(Less) Marketing

34 34 35 36

Conclusion

REFERENCES

5.1 Critical Reflections 41 5.2 Future Recommendations 42 5.2.1 Hyper-Personalisation 42 5-2.2 Biopositive Beauty 42 5.2.3 Male en Vogue 43 5.2.4 Representation Matters 43

6.1 References 6.2 Bibliography 6.3 List of Illustrations 6.4 Appendix

47 51 61 67

CHAPTER 1

introduction & rationale

The wellness industry has risen as an antidote to the uncertain and at times overwhelming world in which we live. The quest for perfect skin and body generated by capitalistic corporations is putting an emotional and psychological strain on consumers by explicitly dictating what it means to be beautiful which is having an impact on their behaviour and lifestyle. The societal ideal of perfect skin is one of many mediators of how skin realism and skin problems are still often being stigmatised and not widely accepted. (Magin et al. 2009) The shift from beauty is more than something pleasing to the eye, is the result of internal health, which is becoming an important part of consumer’s lives. Therefore, the idea of ‘healthy mind, healthy body’ can be now extended to include the relationship between skin and psyche. Especially the Millennial generation is at the forefront of recognising the importance of self-care and the skin-care industry is an example of this coping mechanism to deny the inevitability of society’s future.

“What’s new and different is you now have the Millennials incredibly interested, passionate and turned on to skin-care.” (Hudis,2018) The future-thinking report introduced the discussion around Psychodermatology and trend of Acne Positivity. This report will use the initial research to further develop a solid understanding of Millennials relationship to their skin and how experiencing skin concerns impact an individual’s wellbeing and identity and buying behaviour.

This report will also look into the social-cultural influences such as idealisation of beauty and skin, further correlated with how social media has influenced skin realism. The primary research will the assist in the bridging of the gaps emerged when reviewing the literature, the results uncovered will be critically analysed upon with proposed recommendations for future business opportunities to fill in the market gaps within the beauty and skin-care industry.

report aim The aim of the report is to research Millennialsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; relationship to their skin and the impact it has on their consumer behaviour, with investigations focusing on skin problems and what role does beauty and skin-care industry play in this.

objectives To investigate the impact of contemporary mass media on pervading an the ideal of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;perfectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin has had on consumers skin needs and what are their attitudes towards it To identify Millennial attitudes and practices in relation to their skin To analyse how having a skin problem impacts consumers wellbeing and quality of life To investigate how aware are consumers of the skincare market and how it reflects their buying decisions and expectations To scope opportunities and challenges within the skincare industry associated with taking action to overcome skin stereotypes 2

CHAPTER 2

literature review 2.1 The Science of Perfect Face 2.1.1 Social Comparison Theory

Our ancestors recognized that being attractive was important for survival and attractiveness it equated to good health and perpetuation of the species. The role of physical attractiveness in personal perception has been a topic in several scholars’ work. According to Ritvo et al., (2011) skin can be thought of as the most aesthetic organ of the body as it is one of the first things that individuals notice on one another. Festinger’s (1954) social comparison theory suggests that human beings tend to evaluate their opinions and skills by making comparisons with similar others. The difference between desired others and perceived self usually results in behaviour to eliminate the perceived difference. As applied in ideal beauty research, previous researchers argued that people tend to compare themselves to people and images that represent idealistic goals (Botta, 1999). A face is “a vehicle of expression, a site of identity and an instrument of impression formation and serves as what Synnott (1993 ) calls the ‘prime symbol of the self’.” Pruzinsky believes (1994) that facial flaws can even amount in many cases to a social disability.

In ‘The Beauty Prescription’, Luftman and Ritvo (2008) describe “a beauty-brain loop in which inner beauty/outer beauty health and environment interact with one another”, simply put; how you look affects how you feel and any change from the ideal appearance (i.e. unhealthy skin, uneven facial or body features, being underweight or overweight) is perceived negatively. Etcoff (2000), in 'Survival of the Prettiest', stated: "Our extreme sensitivity to beauty is hardwired, that is, governed by circuits in the brain shaped by natural selection. We love to look at smooth skin, thick shiny hair, curved waists, and symmetrical bodies because in the course of evolution the people who noticed these signals and desired their possessors had more reproductive success." Nowadays, the importance of the face has seen gained a new outlook because of the age of photo-centric social media and “its symbolic significance is showing no signs of diminishing.” (Lafrance and Carey, 2018)

2.1.2 Insecurity Sells Projected to reach $750 billion by 2024 (Inkwood Research, 2018), the global beauty industry still contributes to the unrealistic appearance standards by implicitly and explicitly dictating through the media and advertising what it means to be beautiful (Craddock et al., 2019) The cross-cultural comparison of Western and Eastern beauty standards plays a significant role in creating and reinforcing global appearance ideals. (Craddock et al., 2019) The Western body image is perceived superior and Eastern cultures aspire to embody that westernised and modernised image by aiming for lighter and whiter skin. (The Illusionists, 2015) However, the irony is the companies that are pushing white skin beauty ideal to consumers in the East are the same companies telling them to avoid it at all cost in the West, profiting from selling whitening cream in half of the world and self-tanning lotions in the other. (The Illusionists, 2015) Kilbourne (2015) supports this “A person who is happy and secure isn’t going to be a very good consumer, because that consumer isn’t going to be looking for products to shore up the self-image or to feel better about oneself” Therefore, these companies benefit from the consumer who is constantly dissatisfied, needs more and more to change and fix something with themselves because they are feeling sad and self-absorbed. Significantly, as evidenced by the sociocultural theory, the ubiquitous promotion of unrealistic appearance ideals by the business has been identified as a strong predictor of body frustration via processes such as upward social comparison, which is likely to produce negative consequences, such as decreased self-esteem (Festinger, cited in Myers et al.,2012), appearance-ideal internalisation, and self-objectification (Moradi, cited in Craddock et al., 2019) Yancy Lael (2016) once said, “Our culture is obsessed with perfection, especially when it comes to the way women look. The parameters of acceptability as far as physical appearance goes are so limiting that only a handful of women actually, fall into this category. The rest of us are left to either squeeze ourselves into molds that don’t fit, hating ourselves all the while, or we just give up entirely”. Consumers have started to urge brands to be more socially responsible for instance, through changing their the conceptualisation of beauty by including greater appearance diversity models (Craddock et al., 2019) but in terms of the beauty industry the requirement for women to consistently look ‘flawless’ and to frantically conceal and hide any form of ‘imperfection’ has been implemented into the consumers’ minds to make us feel attractive and the only way we can seek validation from others. (Boreham, 2018) 6

2.2. Skin and Psyche 2.2.1 Acne Matters

Many thinks of acne as merely an adolescent problem, “as a standard part of life as something to be simply ‘suffered through’ and ‘got beyond’.”(Lafrance and Carey, 2018) But this is a major misconception about skin problems, especially in the case of facial acne as the societal ideal of perfect skin is one of many mediators of psychosocial consequences that seriously affect people’s lives. (Magin et al. 2009) Bhate and Williams (2013) claim that acne perseveres into the people’s. The 20s and 30s in around 64% and 43% of individuals. Therefore, it is not surprising that several dermatological types of research highlight the great amount of distress that individual experience with acne (Lafrance and Carey, 2018) An example of painstaking concision of an acne sufferer analysed by Murray and Rhodes (2005): “I don’t feel equal to [other people] because they are normal and I am not. Would you rather buy an unblemished apple or an apple with lots of dents and bruises? Nobody likes damaged goods”

While the broad amount of a large body of research on acne can help to clarify how to contextualize the acne-prone skin, it tends to rely heavily on the quantitative methods with predominantly descriptive analyses. (Lafrance and Carey, 2018) Consequently, it misses an opportunity to understand how the experience of acne affects consumers quality of life. (Magin et al. 2006) (Appendix 7D) The small body of qualitative research that has been done describes that the impact of acne on mental health can range from increased self-consciousness, social exclusion to serious psychologic and body image problems potentially including suicide risk. (Lafrance and Carey, 2018) These factors consequently lead many, if not most, of those affected by facial acne to use specific self-presentation strategies the most common one being social withdrawal to avoid the gaze of other people. (Lafrance and Carey, 2018)

Additionally, a more qualitative insight on the consumers experience with acne would benefit to establish a deeper connection as well as specific approaches that would be well received by consumers.

2.2.2 Mental Health and Psychodermatology The discipline of psychodermatology that links the interaction between mind and skin demonstrates the importance of mental health whilst having a skin problem. (Rodriguez, 2011 cited in Klimov et al., 2018). According to Dr.Ahmed (2019): “There is a growing voice from our patients telling us that their skin is impacting the way they feel and vice versa. In fact, 85% of dermatology patients feel that psychosocial factors are a major component of their illness, and 17% need support to cope with their condition.” This is considered a critical problem because many dermatological issues are not only aggravated because of stress but may also increase levels of stress, thereby being both a cause of as well as a result of it (Senra and Wollenberg,2014). Appendix 7B visually demonstrates this process. Consequently, it can be argued that to successfully treating dermatological problems lies not only in diagnosing the skin problems but also in understanding the real nature of it and spreading information within the society to prevent stigmatization. This requires an understanding of the severity of an individual´s stress, identifying its causes, and evaluating the quality of their social life. On the contrary, when it comes to psychodermatological treatments there are few downsides despite its successful results: “90% of patients who had psychodermatology therapy understood their skin condition better.”(Mizara et al., 2014) Such as getting referred can take anything from 16 weeks to a year, the treatments with NHS being only available in London area is alienating many UK patients as well as the cost of one Psychodermatology session through the private system is a costly process (from £210-550). (Whitbread, 2019) But, Dr Ahmed (2019) also believes the demand for the service is likely to increase “There already exists robust research to support the link between emotional stress and reactions in the skin but the in-depth analysis will allow a more tailored approach to the management of skin disease. As far as psychological therapies are concerned, we have only just touched the surface.”

2.3 The skin care industry 2.3.1 The skincare obsession

The concept of skincare has exploded kaleidoscopically in the past few years, the Korean beauty industry has popularized the idea of a nightly ten-step program and has been thriving ever since. A study by Meredith (2017) found “Nearly seven out of ten millennial women research beauty products before making a purchase” (Weatherford, 2018), which suggest there is a growing interest from consumers to understand how skincare could be maximized. However, Solis (2019) points that there is also a growing discontent where female consumers have started to question the merits of such elaborate routines and question whether they’re doing more harm than good to the skin. Dermatologist Tara Rao (2019) believes “A skincare regimen is just one part of the bigger plan to achieving your best skin, so investing excessive time and money in products is not always that productive.” This has influenced a growing debate whether the new obsession with skincare is merely to get female consumers to spend more money, or if it is a valid way to care for oneself. (Solis, 2019) In contrast, Grady (2019) states that these critiques aren’t new to the skincare conversation, arguing that skincare in its modern form has always been corporate, pointing that the rise of the new skincare regimes strongly coincides with the commodification of self-care

Tolentino (2017) compares the idea of beauty as a form of self-preservation rather than capitulation to Lorde´s (1988) manifesto “Caring for myself is not an act of self-indulgence, it is self-preservation, and that is an act of political warfare,” suggesting there is a moral and political utility in relaxing with sheet mask. Furthermore, Doyle (2018) supports this expression “there’s the meditative quality of lying down with a sheet mask on, the ritual of applying exactly the right ingredients in exactly the right order.” 9

2.3.2 Skin and social media Millennials are considered to be individuals accustomed to building online personas and who only know life with modern technology. While the widespread adoption of social media has generated a multitude of societal benefits, the associations between social media use and psychological dysfunction, including depression and anxiety were described in Future Thinking. (Hunt et al., 2018) Recently, the terms “snapchat dysmorphia” and “selfie dysmorphia” have engendered dialogue in both the public sphere and medical literature. (Ramphul and Mejias, 2018) Many social media platforms feature filters which can allow users to alter their appearances in either subtle or substantial ways. The recognition of these terms may greatly impact the practice of aesthetic practitioners, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Wang et al., (2019) argues that “it is important for aesthetic practitioners to recognize the filtered selfie trend when evaluating patients. If presented with a highly filtered photograph, practitioners should screen patients for warning signs and unrealistic expectations.” Opposing to this in recent years campaigners have really shaped the power of social media landscape as young people continue to use their activist mindsets to champion skin inclusivity in all its guises. (Friend, 2018) “If 2017 was the year of body positivity, then 2018 is the year of skin positivity.” (Weinstock, 2018) The trend toward self-expression and individualism is slowly inspiring individuals to free their skin from the shackles of make-up, filters and Photoshop. 11

The work of artist Peter Devito (as seen on the double-page) serves as a visual example of how the movement is being manifested on social media (Weinstock, 2018) Therefore, as social media gives us the opportunity to create these powerful social movements, consumers are now no longer sold happiness and fulfilment through the pursuit of perfection but rather through the acceptance of imperfections. (Yarbrough, 2019)

David Lortscher, (2018), co-founder of Curology argues: ”Although we’re becoming more accepting of acne, it’s still a medical condition that is physically uncomfortable for many people, and skin positivity will not completely rid the drugstore of anti-acne brands.” As a result study by Allied Market Research (2018) found that the acne treatment segment, which has been struggling, is in recovery with sales projected to reach nearly $11million by 2025. This suggests that even if the skin positivity movement has been coopted by the beauty and skincare capitalism consumers will be still seeking a solution to their skin concerns not only acne. However, beauty brands built on positivity have the ability to bring the normalised message to a larger audience. Yarbough (2019) further supports this with an interesting point of view “The thought of a skin neutral future, though, feels oddly freeing. What if the message wasn't how to suppress your pimples, but how to support your skin? What if it was less about manipulating its appearance, and more about meeting its basic needs — no matter what that looks like?” As this topic is just picking up pace, future research will investigate consumers attitudes towards the skin positivity in beauty and skin-care industry. 13

2.3.3 Male disruption

As gendered beauty norms change, brands are making space for men to explore the world of skincare. (Rapp, 2019) Lafrance and Carey (2018) describes the theory of skin work (concealing, medicating and grooming) as the ability to disrupt the definition of heteronormative masculinity. “Men are men are expected to develop a ‘thick skin’ one that will allow them to relate to skin problems i.e. acne as though it were inconsequential and unimportant.” According to Shinn and Quezada (2018), men have internalized skincare as feminine and are unwilling to embrace and celebrate what essentially is a self-improvement subject where women are the ultimate thought leaders. They state that in terms of skin issues there is a lack of real-life personality that male consumers can relate to when experiencing skin issues. This is particularly relevant to the skin work associated with acne, according to Lafrance and Carey (2018) if men are engaging in the non-conformist skin work activity by attempting to conceal their acne with make-up, “there is a risk of being exposed as a make-up user, which, for many men, could mean having their heterosexual male identities.” On the contrary the increasing critique of ‘toxic masculinity’ which begins to break down the restrictions for men, further demonstrates the need for beauty and skincare brands to explore the possibilities of specifically setting out to target the male consumer by appealing to their emotions rather than their physicality. (Smith, 2019)

“By setting out to target male consumers, brands encourage fostering a deeper, yet approachable take on skin health”. (Rapp, 2019) This comes at a time when Millennials notably respond more positively to marketing showing diversity, a recent study commissioned by The Book of Man (2019) revealed that “69 per cent of men in the UK feel misrepresented by brands”, which means that one-dimensional approaches to men’s beauty need to change (Chitrakorn, 2019) However, this shows that there are still barriers to overcome within the UK market when it comes to educating men on various skin issues, especially men of colour. “The vast majority of products out there don’t actually account for the ways in which skin of color reacts to different ingredients or might need special attention” (Rascoe, 2019) With this being said there is a need for brands to embrace a more fluid interpretation of manliness and beauty as well as making space where men can experiment with skincare and participate in the growing self-care and wellness movements (Rapp, 2019) Therefore, a further primary research is needed to support this changing attitudes of male consumers towards skincare.

research gap

Throughout the literature review, key themes were demonstrated and several gaps and opportunities for further analysis have been identified where appropriate, however, the research is lacking in data created with beauty and skin-care industry in mind, therefore further research will be able to bring these elements together within the methods and questions selected for more relevant information. Furthermore, it is evident that the research has been overly reliant on quantitative data, this is specifically described in chapter Â´Acne MattersÂ´ and so to strengthen the understanding of consumers experience and bridge knowledge gaps, the research will benefit from more in-depth qualitative insights. Finally, the literature review has identified potential obstacles particularly in relation to the advertising of unrealistic beauty standard thus the primary research conducted will seek to establish the market gaps within fostering skin realism within the beauty and skin-care industry.

CHAPTER 3

methodology 3.1 Methodological Structure

3.2 Sample

The body of research was carried out through primary

The findings from secondary research suggested that Millennials born between 1980 and 2000 will be appropriate for the research sample. As they are considered the most visible than any other generation before them, this is the most influential consumer group within the skincare market due to their deep recognition for the importance of self-care, wellness and by taking a more active, vocal role in redefining stereotypes in beauty and personal care, which contrasts from the mainstay of values held by Baby Boomers. (Euromonitor International, 2019) They are also trend-setters within the skincare and believe the products they use on their skin can impact their health and wellbeing. (Linkage Research & Consulting, 2019) It was deemed most appropriate that the research is targeted towards the millennial group as they fall into the 'Early Adopters' (Appendix 7G) category for their high-involvement and insight of experience. This will aid the research in better understanding how this is reflected within their buying behaviour.

and secondary research methods to ensure consistent and accurate findings. The combination of quantitative and qualitative research methods were utilized in pursuit to provide a well-rounded debate throughout the report. A mixed-method Triangulation strategy (Jick, 1979) that â&#x20AC;&#x153;combines quantitative and qualitative elements in the data collection was chosen to improve the validity and depth to the research as well as achieving the ability to compare different perspectives drawn from qualitative and quantitative data that enabled a better evaluation of the collected information.â&#x20AC;? (Hurmerinta-PeltomĂ¤ki and Nummela, 2006) The quantitative data were initially used largely to supplement the qualitative data to gain an initial understanding of the overall attitudes on a larger level with a focus to be able to visualise the obtained data. Furthermore, each research method links closely with the research objective in order to fulfill the aim defined by the research question with total accuracy. However, the time taken to conduct and analyse the research data as well as costs associated with carrying out the research acted as a limitation to the study. 17

Furthermore, a maximum variation sampling strategy was employed (Patton, 2005) to ensure a wide spectrum of expertise and perspectives relevant to the study research questions. Efforts were made to include people working in either direct or indirect relation to the skincare industry.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

objectives matrix To investigate the impact of contemporary mass media on pervading an ideal of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;perfectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin has had on consumers skin needs and what are their attitudes towards it To identify Millennial attitudes and practices in relation to their skin To analyse how having a skin problem impacts consumers wellbeing and quality of life To investigate how aware are consumers of the skin care market and how it reflects their buying decisions and expectations To scope opportunities and challenges within skincare industry associated with taking action to overcome skin stereotypes

RESEARCH METHODS

OBJECTIVE 1 OBJECTIVE 2 OBJECTIVE 3 OBJECTIVE 4 OBJECTIVE 5

Secondary Research

x x x

x x x x x

Online Questionnaire Part 1

x x

Online Questionnaire Part 2 Focus Group(s) 1 to 1 In-Depth Interviews Industry Expert Interviews Store Observations

x x

x x x x

3.3 Secondary Research

The secondary research served as a base to examine the existing literature written on the topic to enable a deep level of understanding the research topic as well as to helped to identify the gaps within the industry and gave direction to the primary research. The resources consisted of wide range of academic and non-academic resources ranging from books such 'Survival of the prettiest' or 'The beauty prescription: The complete formula for looking and feeling beautiful, ' a large number of journals, websites, online reports, databases such as WGSN and LS:N Global and audio-visual resources such as podcasts and documentaries. Additionally, to understand the societal and psychological theories of face and beauty standards a diverse number of theoretical works were researched. A disadvantage, however, was that the information gathered had been collected with 19 a specific purpose that may not be the most appropriate for the for the research as it differed from the research objectives. (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015)

3.4 Primary Research 3.4.1 Quantitative Data Collection Online Questionnaire The questionnaire gives more control of the research process as it allows the collection of quantitative data economically and is comparatively easy both to explain and understand. (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015, p.182) This research method was chosen to obtain a general view of the opinions of the sample group and to measure their responses on a larger scale. The questionnaire was split into 2 parts. The first part of the questionnaire looked to get respondents attitudes, motivations and views towards their skin well as societal ideals in terms of appearance. The second part of the questionnaire drew answers from the participants who experience any skin concern. The questionnaire ultimately gained 111 responses in total of which 92 identified as female and 19 as male. The first part gained 111responses and the second part 41 responses. Compromising of across the 18 and 39 age range. The limitation of the survey was the lack of further explanation or reasoning behind the closed questions as they were predetermined. Participants might haven’t been truthful in their responses, taken the question seriously, or have not understood the question fully. As the part 2 of the questionnaire received only 37 responses therefore a qualitative research within this matter was necessary to offer a deeper insight from the individual's experience. Participants were approached though social media and online survey forums. The survey was created through an online survey tool Google Form.

3.4.2 Qualitative Data Collection Focus Group A two focus groups were assembled with 9 participants, 5 females, 4 males, aged 20-32. The focus groups involved a semistructured discussion, with key questions decided beforehand to ensure a fairly free flowing interview in terms of both breadth and depth. “Group interactions may lead to a highly productive discussion as interviewees respond to your questions and evaluate points made by the group.” (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015, p.419) The themes were decided based upon the questionnaire findings and secondary research findings. An activity in both focus groups involved photographs of skincare brand advertisements that were presented to the participants. The participants were instructed to rate each image subjectively based on how realistic it was and assign a rating from 1 to 5, afterwards a balanced discussion around the activity was encouraged so the participants could easily react to one another, justify their opinions and challenge each other.

Secondly participants were shown image examples of skin inclusivity campaign and photography projects ensued to understand specific likes and dislikes regarding what skincare and beauty brand could do regarding skin realism. Each of these tasks achieved effectivity due to their use of visual material that allowed an impulsiveness in reactions for important insights. Limitations during the focus group occurred due to the signs of domination between participants that effected responses of others as they felt they lost the opportunity to contribute to the discussion. To prevent the problematic participants were equally encouraged to participate throughout the interview to balance the flow of the contribution. (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015, p.418)

In-Depth Interviews Qualitative in-depth interviews with the sample demographic Millennials were deemed the most appropriate mode of inquiry as â&#x20AC;&#x153;they allow for flexibility to discuss specific points raised by individual participants and allow for emerging and unanticipated issues to be explored in greater depth while retaining some consistency across interviews.â&#x20AC;? (Kallio et al., 2016) Five in-depth interviews consisting of four women and one man within the 21-26 age sample were completed, the set of questions related to their attitudes and practices in relation to their skin and overall expectations towards skincare market and how it is reflected in their buying behaviour. Four in-depth interviews with Millennials who are experiencing a skin problem were undergone to gain an understanding of their physical and emotional experience. Subsequently, the questions went to uncover their thought on the stigma and social pressure around skin appearance. Although the participants were personally known to the interviewer, the participants can also feel under the pressure during the interviews especially if the topic is personal to them. Efforts were made to ensure that respondents do not feel fear of judgement while answering questions that could intrude a sensitive information by holding an arranged meeting in a comfortable location and without any disturbance (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015, p.407) However, due to acne and spots being the main skin concern of the interviewees, it may not represent the experience of the whole population and individuals with different skin concerns. The other two interviews were carried out in stores to gain insight into the sample demographic attitude towards skincare retailing by going beyond personally know individuals for the reduction of bias. However, it was quite time-consuming as these were done in a busy holiday period which had an impact on the number of representatives willing to be interviewed. The interviews were audiorecorded and transcripted with the participantsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; permission to control bias and produce reliable data. (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2015, p.414)

STORE OBSERVATIONS

Store analysis of skincare product advertisements in Japan and England was done to compare, spot any patterns and collect closer insight insight on consumer behaviour when purchasing and browsing skincare products. The shop safari was completed at Boots store in Nottingham, John Lewis store in Nottingham on 7th December 2019 and at Kokumin drugstore, Skin Holic, and the faceshop in Tokyo-Shinjuku on 16th November 2019.

INDUSTRY EXPERT INTERVIEWS Structed interview were carried out with industry experts. These findings were formed on the basis of personal meeting and email correspondence. Insiders ranged from various backgrounds with both direct and indirect links to the skincare and beauty. The first interview was with Natalia Perexta aesthetician and founder of Navan Clinics, which allowed to understand consumers needs in relation to their skin and skincare as well as industry opportunities from the point of you of a skincare professional. The second interview involved Lex Gilles a beauty blogger and British Skin Foundation ambassador, on the topic of skin positivity and its community as well as the positive and negative sides of media. This method had its limitations too for example experts provided a partial information to deflect from any negative impressions or assumptions about the company they represent. Furthermore, as certain interviews were conducted through an email correspondence, they lacked a face-to-face interaction where questions could be built up upon the respondents’ answers. However, this method helped to “decrease the cost of transcribing as it requires little editing or formatting.” (Meho, 2006)

research limitations The potential limitations of this research were noted under the explanation of each method. Although the following limitations were also taken into account. First, in terms of the participant’s gender, there were no restrictions when conducting either qualitative or qualitative research to ensure a broad and encompassing study. But only individuals that identified as male and female participated in the study, although it didn’t undermine the research value however, perceptions from more gender-fluid participants would have brought interesting viewpoints to the study. Second, the quantitative survey consisted of 111 participants but as each person gave their individual opinions, the participants might have had a biased view towards data and results that would support their hypotheses or arguments. Furthermore, dependence on industry professionals for information resulted in the delayed progress of the research. Another limitation was that the research findings “do not account for how social reality is shaped and maintained, or how people interpret their actions and others” (Blaikie, 2007). Third, more in-depth interviews were meant to be conducted, however it was found difficult to reach that many Millennials with skin problems and to arrange a personal meeting, also those approached refused to be interviewed as they didn’t feel comfortable to open up about their condition. Accordingly, triangulation method, in this respect, can benefit from its divergent results in terms of “new ways of capturing problem to balance with conventional data-collection methods.” (Jick, 1979)

CHAPTER 4

discussions discussions

4.1 Chapter 1 Millennials’ Attitudes and Routines 4.1.1 Skincare Regimens and More As discussed in the literature review, millennials growing involvement within the health and wellness trend is contributing to greater the awareness of skincare and need in taking care of their skin. This has affected how people are driving the skincare growth via sharing their obsession within the digital world. Currently, over “420,000 people subscribe to Reddit’s ’Skincare Addiction’ sub” (Weatherford, 2018) and #skincareroutine has 7.5 million posts on Instagram. (Appendix 8A) This interest could be seen during the questionnaire carried out, 33.3% of 111 people surveyed admitted to ’Always’ follow a skincare routine.

Based on the survey analysis it was found that millennials behaviour does not necessarily reflect the mindset as those who rated their skin between 3 and 4 said they 'Usually' or 'Rarely' follow a skincare routine although they do experience skin problems. On the contrary, respondents who rated their skin 7 and 8 mostly stated they 'Always' or 'Usually' follow a skincare routine. This could indicate that millennials do seek to improve the appearance of their skin even though they are moderately satisfied with it.

“I used not care at all about how my skin looks, but I have changed my approach to this, I have started having a regular skincare routine, I am seeing a big difference in my skin and how I feel around people.” (Participant 3, 2019) Interview with shopping assistant for NEOM Organic gave an example how this is being applied to everyday life: “I feel

like at the moment less is more because I think that what comes in your body comes out of your body. I always try to eat healthily and drink loads of water. “ (Appendix 4C) 25

A similar point was brought up by during an in-depth interview: "I try to eat healthy and drink loads of water and I am

really careful with what I eat and what I put on my face." (Sacha, 2019) Suggesting that millennials believe there is a connection between how lifestyle choices can affect one´s skin health, therefore rather than investing in new products, they focus more on implementing a healthy lifestyle as a result. Yet, it feels important to point out that there were exceptions within the sample group in terms of Millennials attitudes towards usage of skincare. Responses such as "I'm lazy and don't know skin care products" or "I don't care about it", were common in participants explanation of why they do not follow a skincare regimen as surely not everyone does. While not everyone has a skincare regimen, secondary research findings suggested that skincare routines can go beyond the idea of having clear skin. Although only one participant mentioned their skincare is a way of practising self-care, the focus group 1 collectively agreed on the benefits of skincare routine as a physical way of self-care, which proved that (Appendix 2A) wellness has evolved to something much more intimate and special than a sheer physical state of one’s health.

4.1.2 Keeping It Simple The skincare market is strongly saturated which can cause confusion and frustrations among consumers who feel overwhelmed by the choice. This is something that repeatedly came up in the focus group.

“I would like to know more about it so I can find the right skincare products for me, but I always feel so lost cause there is so much information out there and so many brands and products.” (Participant 3, 2019) The literature review pointed out the decline of millennial women participating in the Korean inspired multi-step regimes. Findings from the survey reinforced this behaviour as their skincare routine usually consisted of 2 to 7 steps (Appendix 1C) Graphic icons below visually illustrate the most stated products by order of use, showing how the minimalism trend has penetrated the skincare industry and therefore shifting consumer behaviour towards skincare usage. (Appendix 6A)

Stripping a routine down to the basics is not a new concept for Natalia Perexta, as a aesthetician, she says this is a common problem with her clients: "From my practice, I see that a lot

4.1.3 Men and Skincare

of consumers feel lost and they pick what their friend has or just pick up the product not knowing what skin type they have, I just simplify it, go back to basics I say and then we can start adding more things to improve your skin.” (Appendix 5A)

The idea of personalised skincare had been met with positive reactions in both focus groups and one to one interviews:

“That would really really help me because it is hard to find the right product for me as I have very sensitive and Indian skin. So, if there is a brand out there that can help people like that it would be amazing” (Appendix 4B) Organic, natural and even a zero waste were mentioned as key requirements within both focus and in-depth interviews. This is reflective within the STEEPLE analysis (Appendix 6A), as Millennials shift their consumer behaviour due to becoming more environmentally conscious. An in-depth interview whilst conducting shop safari revealed unexpected findings;

“We are so concerned of the environment so sometimes the brands wanna portray themselves as if they are fresh, clean natural, not using harsh chemicals, but most of them are just green-washing the customer and doing it for money because it's a trend to be environmentally friendly” (Appendix 4D ) This quote demonstrates that millennials are highly concerned about what goes into their skin but also how important it is that brands can deliver their promise into the core of the ingredient list as consumers can easily spot an environmentally incorrect brand.

The topic of Toxic Masculinity in the literature review has shed a light on the change in cultural attitudes around notions of masculinity, according to Allied Market Research (2016) male personal care is projected to be a $166 billion industry by 2022.

• “For me, it would be ideal to have one product that can be used minimally and can solve many problems.” • “Same here, I have dry skin but as boys usually do, I prefer all-in-one products cause I am lazy ”(laughs) During the focus groups male participants mentioned using products from the market leaders such as Nivea and Neutrogena, this suggests affordable brands are significant to the consumers’ interest rather than premium products, in fact, Nivea features in at least a third of nearly all weekly skincare routines among men. (EntSight, 2019) However, men’s makeup remains a contentious issue, particularly in Western markets, this came with evidence in the in-depth interview with the Boots customer:

“ “

I feel like for women the standards of beauty are insane but for guys are no existent, if we even to buy concealers to cover up our acne because we can also not be comfortable about having acne and showing it. People think we don’t care but actually, we do, like modern brands come up with products such as mattifying tint for men but they always have to label it as a product for men especially but actually, there is no difference if you use for example a foundation for women because people would question your masculinity. (Morales, 2019)

“

Subsequently, this contradicts with findings from a focus group where male participants expressed a reluctance to skincare usage unless they have particular skin issue: “I subjectively do not care though, because at the moment I am not experiencing any skin problems, I do have a dry skin but I don’t even moisturise it most of the time.” (Appendix 2A) However, an interesting correlation in answer from Participant 1 and Participant 8 was found:

This correlates with the Lafrance and Carey´s theory of a ’non-conformist skin work’ previously discussed under the topic ’Male Disruption’ in the literature review. In addition, it was evident during a shop safari there was lack of beauty and skincare advertisements targeted towards men whereas the one conducted in Tokyo showed how this normalisation is already happening. (Appendix 3B) This can suggest that men in the West are still not feeling enough support by the brands to get involved in skincare, according to Ensight (2019) this strongly varies by market “Asia is leading the way for innovation and usage of men’s skincare, while Europeans are less interested in skincare than the average male globally.” While brands are making small steps towards addressing men’s skincare needs there is still an opportunity for brands and retailers to engage more. 29

Key Takeaway Insights from Chapter 1 • There are strong interests from consumers when it comes to getting involved in the skincare regimens, however, Millennials often experience confusion and frustrations as a result of the overwhelming amount of choice and information available. • Focus group found that millennial men are more reluctant to skincare, they prefer all-in-one products and are price and ingredient sensitive. The differences between Western and Eastern cultures play a part in the subconscious embedding of gender stereotypes affecting low male participation in beauty and skincare. • Individuals highly growing environmental awareness could have been felt during the primary research, the need for simplicity is changing how they perceive skincare and beauty industry and therefore this is being reflected within their consumer behaviour as they seek truly natural and organic products. However, mainstream brands that decided to take the natural and organic route are often demonstrating difficulty in guaranteeing this within their ingredients list despite best intentions.

4.2 Chapter 2 Millennials with Skin Problems 4.2.1 The Impact On the Quality of Life

The literature review described how skin problems can have a negative effect on consumers quality of life and how an individual’s experience with skin problems is often overlooked by academics. The quality of life model refers to the overall quality of one´s daily experience that is defined in terms of happiness and contentment, health and well-being. (Appendix 7D) Primary research verified the subjectivity of one´s experience with the skin problem, however, similarities were found when discussing daily activities. “Basically, I have to wear more make-up. I am not confident if I don’t wear make-up to the point where I won’t leave my house without it” (Sacha, 2019)

A perfectly similar response was given by another female participant : “I worry if it’s too visible, if I’ll be able to cover it properly, why am I breaking out. It impacts my relationships as to whether I want to go out with someone, it impacts my self-image and my confidence. It impacts what I get done that day. It impacts my schedule as I do not want to leave home without at least foundation on. If I take a photo, it’s the first thing I check, whether my skin looks clear, then I can think about posting it.” (Bialyova, 2019)

Quotes such as this show insight into how skin problems and especially acne can affect consumers self-confidence, evoke feelings of self-consciousness and therefore subverting their need for self-actualisation and esteem. (Maslow,1943) An industry interview with Natalia Perexta backed up this information in relation to the link between skin appearance and mental health. (Appendix 5A)

“I think the medical community have been particularly bad over the years about realising that skin and skin conditions can have an impact on your mental health, but I think we are waking up to that.”

Issues were highlighted by three female and one male participant during in-depth interviews and one participant from the focus group, who were affected by acne who said that social media is an important factor that does affect their social functioning and mental health. Thus, the analysis confirms five main areas of quality of life that these individuals are affected by emotional functioning, social interactions, daily activities and school/work, this correlates with Fabbrocini, Cacciapuoti and MonfrecolaÂ´s (2018) conceptual model that illustrates the impact of an acne, and the links between Health-Related Quality of Life domains. (Appendix 7F) This pushes the importance of informing and educating consumers of the factors which could place them at risk as a result of their skin condition, dermatologists could provide more holistic treatment by ultimately referring them to a mental health professional if needed. The literature review provides reasoning for this in the form of 'Psychodermatology', but this also could apply to the skincare and beauty industry as an interesting opportunity to establish a more holistic approach to skincare.

"We have a need for validation, we need to feel like we belong, that we are liked and skin issues honestly stand in the way of us accepting our appearance and lead to not being content with ourselves." (Bialyova, 2019)

Key Takeaway Insights from Chapter 2 â&#x20AC;˘ Qualitative research demonstrated five areas that are challenging the lives of millennials with skin problems, individuals use cosmetic cover-ups as a way to avoid societal judgment as well as to boost self-confidence. â&#x20AC;˘ Both female and male millennials with acne noted social media being a negative factor that impacts their mental health.

â&#x20AC;˘ Attention was drawn to the scarce and underdeveloped dermatological treatments in terms of improving the psychological aspect when dealing with skin conditions, however, a holistic approach from dermatologists and brands might offer an opportunity to lower these aspects for either patients or consumer in general.

4.3 Chapter 3 Media aka the Double-Edged Sword 4.3.1 The Influences of Visual Media Within the literature review, Social Comparison theory revealed how individuals tend to compare themselves to others who represent idealistic beauty standards. Research has shown that this type of comparison has been strongly pressured by the visual media and the power of influencers and celebrities (Appendix 1C) However, previous results indicate that this also can be pressure in terms of cultural aspects. “I see this as a common pressure from western media because this skin ideal of western cultures has always been the same. You need to have a perfect, flawless, glowy skin without wrinkles and spots.” (Participant 3, 2019) Despite the advances of the feminist movement, Wolf (1991) has argued women in modern society face intense pressures to meet certain ideals of beauty. This has been backed up by the focus group discussion when discussed a topic of social media filters. “I think these filters were created essentially for women, based on some common pre-ancient beauty opinions so we would find these women attractive” (Participant 5, 2019)

These findings could suggest that millennials are truly aware of the unrealistic beauty standards that persist in today’s media especially those on platforms such as Instagram made through the option of face filters which was mentioned in the focus groups are being aimed more at women rather than men. Contrastingly, part 2 survey respondents totally agreed that social media is responsible for creating an unrealistic beauty standards (Appendix 1D) to the extent that:

Therefore, the beauty ideals set by social media can become corrupting to the consumers wellbeing by making them feeling negative over the way they look, this was evidenced in the in-depth interview with Millennial with acne: “Using filters in pictures doesn’t help, because when I am scrolling my Instagram, I feel like most of the people are just using filter and have perfect face and then it’s just me who has this problem. But the reality is, people have the same problems they use Instagram as a mask” (Sacha, 2019)

Nevertheless, it has been found that despite the masses of negative implications the visual platforms can permit, it doesn’t make living with skin problems harder as only 13 respondents agreed to this, but it does indicate that individuals might find harder to: “put yourself out there knowing you will be side by side with these people.” (Gillies, 2020)

70% have chosen before not to include a photo on social media to avoid displaying their skin.

4.3.2 The Positive Change “As social media has reached universal heights, it’s become a hive of dialogue around cultural and societal issues and is proving invaluable in making positive change.” (Valentine, 2019) (Appendix 6A) Studies have explored social media in relation to dermatology as a source of information or support but those affected still feel it is 'not there yet'. (Fabbrocini, Cacciapuoti and Monfrecola, 2018) An industry interview with a beauty blogger and British Skin Foundation ambassador verifies this: “As I spokesperson for rosacea community, I think it’s still a very underrated skin condition, however, the skin positivity movement is finally showing some real inclusive diversity that rightfully represents the different range of skin in society.” (Gillies, 2020) This sentiment was further supported amongst the focus group and demonstrates how social media such as Instagram are instrumental in bringing awareness to issues of diversity and inclusivity. Gillies (2020) indicated an Instagram as a “good source because from my experience many people discovered me through that and it helped them, knowing someone is going through the same thing and anything I can do to raise awareness of it and make other people feel comfortable is amazing,” highlighting the positive power that social media can have on consumers in order to improve one’s wellbeing.

However, discussion with the founder of Navan Clinics further implied how these barriers can be pushed forward in order to destigmatise portrayal of skin and skin conditions: “We have to go beyond the number of foundation shades. Just seeing more people of colour and race to be represented generally in terms of marketing and people who make the products.” (Perexta, 2020) This shows how the impact that social media has on consumers is significant as it allows brands to create an inspirational and positive social campaign to change the way they promote themselves to the customers to make a social change.

This follows on to discoveries within focus group 1 and 2. In both focus groups activities, themes reoccurred within participants perceptions when shown images of skincare campaigns done by Proactive and Dermalogica. Participants agreed on the inconsistency between the person featured and the product marketed within the ad: “Lady who seems like she is very happy about herself, no skin problems, why did they even use her in this ad? She looks like she has never had adult acne in her life nor teenage acne ever.” (Participant 3, 2019). Another set of photos by Sophie Harris-Taylor were shown to provide an explanation of whether consumers would be reluctant to purchase if seeing skincare ad or campaign of a similar kind. Participant 7 (2019) reacted to the: “It wouldn’t motivate me as an average consumer, but that person who has this skin condition or anything similar to it would be more inclined to do so because he or she would see this ad as authentic and real and not fake.”

“

I think it should be a standard for women to go makeup-free show and their skin with all the imperfections you can think off. (Participant 3, 2019)

“

4.3.3 The Flaw(Less) Marketing

Another one added "No, it wouldn't put me off actually I would find this campaign more interesting than photos you have shown before because I can see the skin problem. Plus, if I was affected by this concrete example of a skin issue, I could relate to it on a personal level rather than an image of fullface makeup ad." These results build on the interview with Lex Gillies (2020): "I think a lot of consumers with not only rosacea but other skin issues would rather feel more positive to have that representation and buy products from a company that is more inclusive by shedding a positive light on skin conditions." (Appendix 5B)

insight is gained that male and female participants wouldn't feel particularly motivated to purchase unless they experience a concrete skin problem however a strong acknowledgment was made towards brands such as Blume that do not reinforce skin stereotypes within Good their campaigns but rather “highlights how normal it ingredients is to show your skin and that you don’t need to cover it Honesty with makeup.” (Participant 2, 2019) People without Brand’s This makes it apparent that skin realism is still something Realistic sincerity perfect skin that society and brands still struggle to change, which imagery Accurate serves to restrict individuals in how to embrace their before and after skin. comparisons However, participants mentioned improvements are happening within the industry but "it is still not there yet” Representation of Portrayal of as ”a lot of times these platforms get attacked with hate Lack of nonskin imperfections different idealized comments and receive negative attention.”(Bialyova, skin colours models 2019) in comparison to the current speed of body positivity movement as Participant 8 (2019) interestingly Authenticity pointed out: “Well, what came to my mind right now is Kanye´s No true campaign that focused on diversity and body positivity voices which is a good thing for sure but when you looked at their face, you could tell everyone had a makeup on their face and I think it must have been photoshopped too”. For a better visualisation when asked 'In your opinion what do you see is often lacking within the beauty and skincare brand marketing when it comes to the portrayal of skin and skin conditions?', a bubble chart of the key collective Women answers was created based on questionnaire responses. This chart demonstrates how millennials don’t feel a connection with brands that use obvious and unrealistic Men marketing, “mainstream brands use perfect people who have zero skin problems whatsoever so it is really hard to believe for me as a consumer that the product promoted can work” (Participant 3, 2019)

Diversity

Key Takeaway Insights from Chapter 3 • The primary research data contributes a clearer understanding of what is lacking in today’s beauty and skincare marketing, strong dislikes towards current skincare marketing were felt within the focus groups, words such as unrealistic and artificial resonated the most. • Millennials didn’t perceive showing natural skin on social media as anything shocking or daring, however, they strongly supported such an action and felt this should be seen more of within media and beauty industry to make this normalised. • Individuals agreed that beauty standards set up within the visual world are more likely to negatively influence female consumer than male, on the bright side, the research provided a valuable insight to how influencers are getting on boards of the skin positivity movement to challenge these beauty standards and serve as an inspiration. • Individualisation has brought in awareness to issues of diversity and inclusivity including race, body positivity, sexuality and gender (Valentine, 2019) within the fashion industry and media, however, skin conditions and skin inclusivity is still something that society and brands still struggle with to change and normalise.

CHAPTER 5

conclusion 5.1 Critical Reflections In conclusion after extensive primary and secondary research, this report highlighted insights that proved to be further explored in terms of beauty and skincare industry adopting social responsibility in normalising skin and skin imperfections within their marketing formats. However, there is strong potential for more inspirational and positive social campaigns or brand content to make this a norm. Furthermore, primary research identified a gap in consumers needs for guidance on formulating a basic regimen, diagnosing skin issues as well as shopping for skincare products due to oversaturation of the market. The research has been conducted into how this affects Millennials purchasing behaviours as well as their needs going forward. Ultimately, the report has provided key insights within each chapter which are used to cater to an influential Millennial generation. Overall, proposed recommendations based on STEEPLE analysis should serve as a springboard for further investigation for Stage 2, additional research will need to be explored in order to execute these ideas most feasibly and creatively.

5.2 Future Recommendations 5.2.1 Hyper-Personalisation

Chapter 1 revealed an interest in the sample group in personalised skin guidance. Enabling skincare beginners or consumers with skin problems to identify a routine that is tailored to their skin needs and concerns represents a significant opportunity for brands to implement artificial intelligence to create a hyper-personalised diagnostics. (Appendix 6A) Apps or features on wearable technology that promote skincare routines as a part of larger health and wellbeing goals have a potential to successfully connect with the Millennial generation, who are active consumers of both technology and facial skincare. Thus, brands will benefit from this as they help to foster authenticity and holistic approach to skincare on another level.

5.2.2 Biopositive Beauty Throughout the research, participants have shown a belief that there is a connection between their skin and health. Given the overall importance they place on health, individuals are informing themselves about the efficacy of different ingredients and read labels before making a purchase. Within this, opportunities exist for businesses to cater to the future eco-conscious beauty consumer by creating alternative approaches to truly sustainable product development as well as make ingredients more environmentally friendly. Ultimately this could be transformed into immersive a physical retail format to educate and empower the eco-conscious on what they are searching for. Following these recommendations, brands will be able to align with customer values to benefit the planet by stopping natural resources from being overused.

5.2.3 Male en Vogue In Chapter 1 it was outlined how male consumers do not strongly engage with skincare, but instead, they prefer all-in-one products if necessary. Therefore, brands will need to think about consolidating different approach in messaging that suggests products are a step towards optimising overall health rather than an isolated beauty practice. (EntSight, 2019) Nevertheless, anti-acne skincare Western companies can take inspiration from Asia to make male consumers feel more encouraged to use makeup when dealing with skin problems. Alternatively, a gender-neutral approach to skin concerns may prove to be effective to break down barriers for men to engage with makeup and skincare.

5.2.4 Representation Matters Data from Chapter 3 contributes a clearer understanding of what is lacking in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skincare marketing, with individuals being more resistant to trust brands that are using unauthentic marketing. Therefore, brands that master skin inclusivity will be key, with a push for more positive representation across a fuller spectrum so consumers with skin issues can relate to the person they see in the marketing material. A recommendation is to collaborate with empowered influencers that can offer a realistic viewpoint and start developing product solutions that proudly acknowledge the issue.

CHAPTER 6

6.1 References BOOKS Etcoff, N. (2000). Survival of the prettiest. New York: Anchor Books Lael, Y. (2016). Soulful Skincare: The ultimate guide to radically transforming your complexion. 3rd ed. Dashing Fox Books Lorde, A. (1988). A Burst of Light: Essays. New York: Firebrand Books, p.130. Luftman, D. and Ritvo, E. (2008). The beauty prescription:The complete formula for looking and feeling beautiful.. New York: McGraw-Hill. Saunders, M., Lewis, P. and Thornhill, A. (2015). Research methods for business students. 7th ed. Pearson Education. Synnott, A. (1993). The body social. London: Routledge, p.73. Wolf, N. (1991). How Images of Beauty are Used Against Women. London: Vintage.

DOCUMENTS The Illusionists. (2015). [film] Directed by E. Rossinu.

JOURNALS Bhate, K. and Williams, H. (2013). Epidemiology of acne vulgaris. British Journal of Dermatology, 168(3), pp.474-485. Botta, R. (1999). Television Images and Adolescent Girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Body Image Disturbance. Journal of Communication, 49(2), pp.22-41. Hunt, M., Marx, R., Lipson, C. and Young, J. (2018). No More FOMO: Limiting Social Media Decreases Loneliness and Depression. Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, 37(10), pp.751-768. Craddock, N., Ramsey, M., Spotswood, F., Halliwell, E. and Diedrichs, P. (2019). Can big business foster positive body image? Qualitative insights from industry leaders walking the talk. Body Image, 30, pp.93-106. Fabbrocini, G., Cacciapuoti, S. and Monfrecola, G. (2018). A Qualitative Investigation of the Impact of Acne on Health-Related Quality of Life (HRQL): Development of a Conceptual Model. Dermatology and Therapy, 8(1), pp.85-99. Festinger, L. (1954). A Theory of Social Comparison Processes. Human Relations, 7(2), pp.117-140. Hunt, M., Marx, R., Lipson, C. and Young, J. (2018). No More FOMO: Limiting Social Media Decreases Loneliness and Depression. Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, 37(10), pp.751-768. Hurmerinta-PeltomĂ¤ki, L. and Nummela, N. (2006). Mixed methods in international business research: A value-added perspective. Management International Review, 46(4), pp.439-459.

Jick, T. (1979). Mixing Qualitative and Quantitative Methods: Triangulation in Action. Administrative Science Quarterly, 24(4), p.602. Kallio, H., Pietilä, A., Johnson, M. and Kangasniemi, M. (2016). Systematic methodological review: developing a framework for a qualitative semi-structured interview guide. Journal of Advanced Nursing, 72(12), pp.2954-2965. Klimov, E., Tretiakov, A., Rudko, O., Soboleva, A., Danilin, I., Korsunskaya, I. and Sobolev, V. (2018). Psychodermatology: a molecular link between psoriasis and anxiety disorder. Acta Dermatovenerologica Alpina Pannonica et Adriatica, 27(4), pp.2-4. Maslow, A. (1943). A theory of human motivation. Psychological Review, 50(4), Meho, L. (2006). E-mail interviewing in qualitative research: A methodological discussion. Journal of the American Society for Information Science and Technology, 57(10), pp.1284-1295. Mizara, A., Badsha, K., Griffiths, M. and McBride, S. (2014). A retrospective review of a dedicated psychology-based psychodermatology service. British Journal of Dermatology, pp.26-27. Moradi, B. (2010). Addressing Gender and Cultural Diversity in Body Image: Objectification Theory as a Framework for Integrating Theories and Grounding Research. Sex Roles, 63(1-2), pp.138-148. Patton, M. (2005). Qualitative Research. Encyclopedia of Statistics in Behavioral Science. Poli, F., Dreno, B. and Verschoore, M. (2001). An epidemiological study of acne in female adults: results of a survey conducted in France. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 15(6), pp.541-545. Pruzinsky T (1994) Social and psychological challenges for individuals with facial disfigurement. In: Bochat RE (ed.) Special Faces: Understanding Facial Disfigurement. New York: National Foundation for Facial Reconstruction, 15–24. Ramphul, K. and Mejias, S. (2018). Is “Snapchat Dysmorphia” a Real Issue?. Cureus. Ritvo, E., Del Rosso, J., Stillman, M. and La Riche, C. (2011). Psychosocial judgements and perceptions of adolescents with acne vulgaris: A blinded, controlled comparison of adult and peer evaluations. BioPsychoSocial Medicine, 5(1), p.11. Senra, M. and Wollenberg, A. (2014). Psychodermatological aspects of atopic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 170, pp.38-43. Wang, J., Rieder, E., Schoenberg, E., Zachary, C. and Saedi, N. (2019). Patient perception of beauty on social media: Professional and bioethical obligations in esthetics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Yan, Y. and Bissell, K. (2014). The Globalization of Beauty: How is Ideal Beauty Influenced by Globally Published Fashion and Beauty Magazines?. Journal of Intercultural Communication Research, 43(3), pp.194-214.

REPORTS Achieve (2017). The Millenial Impact Report. Allied Market Research (2016). Global Men Personal Care Market. [online] Available at: https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/men-personal-care-market [Accessed 19 Jan. 2020]. Allied Market Research (2018). Acne Medication Market. p.7. EntSight (2019). Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skincare. pp.11,15,24. Inkwood Research. (2018). Global Beauty & Personal Care Products Market Forecast 2018-2026. [online] Available at: https://www.inkwoodresearch.com/ reports/beauty-personal-care-products-market/ [Accessed 21 Jan. 2020]. Live Area (2019). More Than Skin Deep. p.10. Meredith (2017). Women 2020. [online] Available at: https://www.insightsinmarketing.com/media/1170/women2020_millennial_051415__2_.pdf [Accessed 21 Jan. 2020].

WEBSITES Boreham, A. (2018). Sex Sells: Skincare, Slap and Insecurity. [online] Medium. Available at: https://medium.com/writing-in-the-media/sex-sells-skincare-slapand-insecurity-d29ab86c3d39 [Accessed 9 Dec. 2019]. Born, P. (2018). How Instagram and a New Zeitgeist Are Driving Skin Careâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Growth. [online] WWD. Available at: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/skincare/instagram-new-zeitgeist-driving-skin-cares-growth-1202762529/ [Accessed 15 Jan. 2020]. Chitrakorn, K. (2016). Is the Global Cosmetics Market Moving Towards a Cruelty-Free Future?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/inside-beauty/is-the-global-cosmetics-market-moving-towards-a-cruelty-free-future [Accessed 16 Jan. 2020]. Chitrakorn, K. (2019). Men Are Changing. Are Brands Keeping Up?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/intelligence/men-are-changing-are-brands-keeping-up [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019] Economy, P. (2019). A New Study of 150,000 Millennials Reveals They Have 10 Surprising Things in Common. [online] Inc. Available at: https://www.inc. com/peter-economy/a-new-study-of-150000-millennials-revealed-that-they-have-these-10-surprising-things-in-common.html [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Euromonitor International. (2018). Dermocosmetics: The Junction of Skin Care and Health and Wellness. [online] Available at: https://blog.euromonitor. com/dermocosmetics-the-junction-of-skin-care-and-health-and-wellness/ [Accessed 21 Dec. 2019]. Euromonitor International. (2019). Dismantling Gender Stereotypes with Genderless Beauty. [online] Available at: https://blog.euromonitor.com/ dismantling-gender-stereotypes-with-genderless-beauty/ [Accessed 21 Dec. 2019].

Friend, H. (2018). Acne positivity. [online] LS:N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/micro-trends/article/22484/acne-positivity [Accessed 13 Dec. 2019]. Global Cosmetic Industry. (2014). Online Beauty Communities Show Influence. [online] Available at: https://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/cosmetics/Online-Beauty-Communities-Show-Influence-252722641.html [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Grady, C. (2019). The skin care wars, explained. [online] Vox. Available at: https://www.vox.com/culture/2018/3/9/17064498/women-skin-care-wars-explained [Accessed 2 Dec. 2019]. Khatib, H. (2020). “Skin is not good or bad; it’s not a point of conversation”: Decoding the skin neutrality movement. [online] Vogue India. Available at: https://www.vogue.in/wellness/content/skin-care-movement-what-is-skin-neutrality-skin-positivity [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Linkage Research & Consulting. (2019). 4 Ways Millennials are Changing the Beauty Industry. [online] Available at: https://linkageresearch.com/millennials-changing-beauty/ [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019]. Rapp, J. (2019). Men’s skincare 2.0. [online] JWT Intelligence. Available at: https://www.jwtintelligence.com/2019/08/mens-skincare-2-0/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Smith, J. (2019). Middle man beauty market. [online] Www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/markets/article/24993/middle-man-beauty-market [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Smithers, R. (2017). Consumers being misled by labelling on ‘organic’ beauty products, report shows. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www. theguardian.com/environment/2017/apr/24/consumers-being-misled-by-labelling-on-organic-beauty-products-report-shows [Accessed 16 Jan. 2020]. Solis, M. (2019). The Rise of the Minimalist Skincare Routine. [online] Vice. Available at: https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/ywypb5/do-you-really-need-a-skincare-routine-korean-beauty-dermatologists [Accessed 2 Dec. 2019]. Tolentino, J. (2017). The Year That Skin Care Became a Coping Mechanism. [online] The New Yorker. Available at: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/the-year-that-skin-care-became-a-coping-mechanism?verso=true# [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Valentine, O. (2019). How social media is reshaping the beauty industry. [online] We Are Social. Available at: https://wearesocial.com/blog/2019/07/ how-social-media-is-reshaping-the-beauty-industry [Accessed 13 Jan. 2020]. Vallis, B. (2019). The beauty brands the nation is stockpiling ahead of Brexit. [online] Get The Gloss. Available at: https://www.getthegloss.com/news/brexitis-causing-us-to-stockpile-our-beauty-buys [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Weatherford, A. (2018). Why Everybody’s Obsessed With Skin Care Right Now. [online] The Cut. Available at: https://www.thecut.com/2018/01/everybody-obsessed-with-skincare-now.html [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019].

Weinstock, T. (2018). this photographer takes beautiful portraits of people with acne. [online] I-d. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/j5ajg7/ this-photographer-takes-beautiful-portraits-of-people-with-acne [Accessed 15 Dec. 2019]. Weinstock, T. (2018). why showing natural skin shouldn’t come as such a shock. [online] I-d. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/kzx5g9/whyshowing-natural-skin-shouldnt-come-as-such-a-shock [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Whitbread, L. (2019). Does your skin need therapy?. [online] Dazed. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/body/article/43712/1/ does-your-skin-need-therapy-pysche-psycodermatology [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019]. Yarbough, J. (2019). ‘Acne Neutrality’ May Be a Better Confidence-Boosting Benchmark Than ‘Acne Positivity’. [online] Fashionista. Available at: https://fashionista.com/2019/11/acne-skin-positivity-neutrality [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Yee, T. (2019). Big Ideas 2021: Beauty. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/82211 [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020].

6.2 Bibliography BOOKS Etcoff, N. (2000). Survival of the prettiest. New York: Anchor Books. Gimlin, D. (2002). Body work. Berkeley: University of California Press. Lael, Y. (2016). Soulful Skincare: The ultimate guide to radically transforming your complexion. 3rd ed. Dashing Fox Books. Lorde, A. (1988). A Burst of Light: Essays. New York: Firebrand Books, p.130. Luftman, D. and Ritvo, E. (2008). The beauty prescription:The complete formula for looking and feeling beautiful.. New York: McGraw-Hill. Saunders, M., Lewis, P. and Thornhill, A. (2015). Research methods for business students. 7th ed. Pearson Education, pp.332-333. Synnott, A. (1993). The body social. London: Routledge, p.73. Wolf, N. (1991). How Images of Beauty are Used Against Women. London: Vintage.

DOCUMENTS The Illusionists. (2015). [film] Directed by E. Rossinu.

JOURNALS Adams, Q. (2019). “No Amount of Baths Is Gonna Make You Feel Better”: Seeking Balance, Wholeness, and Well-being in Everyday Self-Care. Journal for Undergraduate Ethnography, 9(2), pp.19-32. Amberg, N. and Fogarassy, C. (2019). Green Consumer Behavior in the Cosmetics Market. Resources, 8(3), p.137. Austin, S., Yu, K., Tran, A. and Mayer, B. (2017). Research-to-policy translation for prevention of disordered weight and shape control behaviors: A case example targeting dietary supplements sold for weight loss and muscle building. Eating Behaviors, 25, pp.9-14. Bhate, K. and Williams, H. (2013). Epidemiology of acne vulgaris. British Journal of Dermatology, 168(3), pp.474-485. Botta, R. (1999). Television Images and Adolescent Girls’ Body Image Disturbance. Journal of Communication, 49(2), pp.22-41. Collier, C., Harper, J., Cantrell, W., Wang, W., Foster, K. and Elewski, B. (2008). The prevalence of acne in adults 20 years and older. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 58(1), pp.56-59. Craddock, N., Ramsey, M., Spotswood, F., Halliwell, E. and Diedrichs, P. (2019). Can big business foster positive body image? Qualitative insights from industry leaders walking the talk. Body Image, 30, pp.93-106. Cryder, C., Lerner, J., Gross, J. and Dahl, R. (2008). Misery Is Not Miserly. Psychological Science, 19(6), pp.525-530. Curran, T. and Hill, A. (2019). Perfectionism is increasing over time: A meta-analysis of birth cohort differences from 1989 to 2016. Psychological Bulletin, 145(4), pp.410-429. Dalgard, F., Bewley, A., Evers, A., Gieler, U., Lien, L., Sampogna, F., Ständer, S., Tomas-Aragones, L., Vulink, N. and Kupfer, J. (2018). Stigmatisation and body image impairment in dermatological patients: protocol for an observational multicentre study in 16 European countries. BMJ Open, 8(12), p.e024877. Dion, K., Berscheid, E. and Walster, E. (1972). What is beautiful is good. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 24(3), pp.285-290. Fabbrocini, G., Cacciapuoti, S. and Monfrecola, G. (2018). A Qualitative Investigation of the Impact of Acne on Health-Related Quality of Life (HRQL): Development of a Conceptual Model. Dermatology and Therapy, 8(1), pp.85-99. Festinger, L. (1954). A Theory of Social Comparison Processes. Human Relations, 7(2), pp.117-140. Gagnon, J. and Duchemin, A. (2016). Social media modulation of mood and anxiety in adolescents with chronic visible skin conditions. European Psychiatry, 33, p.S351. Hunt, M., Marx, R., Lipson, C. and Young, J. (2018). No More FOMO: Limiting Social Media Decreases Loneliness and Depression. Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, 37(10), pp.751-768.

Hurmerinta-Peltomäki, L. and Nummela, N. (2006). Mixed methods in international business research: A value-added perspective. Management International Review, 46(4), pp.439-459. Hunt, M., Marx, R., Lipson, C. and Young, J. (2018). No More FOMO: Limiting Social Media Decreases Loneliness and Depression. Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, 37(10), pp.751-768. Hurmerinta-Peltomäki, L. and Nummela, N. (2006). Mixed methods in international business research: A value-added perspective. Management International Review, 46(4), pp.439-459. Jick, T. (1979). Mixing Qualitative and Quantitative Methods: Triangulation in Action. Administrative Science Quarterly, 24(4), p.602. Bhate, K. and Williams, H. (2013). Epidemiology of acne vulgaris. British Journal of Dermatology, 168(3), pp.474-485. Kallio, H., Pietilä, A., Johnson, M. and Kangasniemi, M. (2016). Systematic methodological review: developing a framework for a qualitative semi-structured interview guide. Journal of Advanced Nursing, 72(12), pp.2954-2965. Kanji, A. (2018). Perspective on Living With a Skin Condition and its Psychological Impact: A Survey. Journal of Patient Experience, 6(1), pp.68-71. Klimov, E., Tretiakov, A., Rudko, O., Soboleva, A., Danilin, I., Korsunskaya, I. and Sobolev, V. (2018). Psychodermatology: a molecular link between psoriasis and anxiety disorder. Acta Dermatovenerologica Alpina Pannonica et Adriatica, 27(4), pp.2-4. Lafrance, M. (2009). Skin and the Self: Cultural Theory and Anglo-American Psychoanalysis. Body & Society, 15(3), pp.3-24. Lafrance, M. and Carey, R. (2018). Skin Work. Body & Society, 24(1-2), pp.55-87. Levine, M. and Murnen, S. (2009). “Everybody Knows That Mass Media are/are not [pick one] a Cause of Eating Disorders”: A Critical Review of Evidence for a Causal Link Between Media, Negative Body Image, and Disordered Eating in Females. Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, 28(1), pp.9-42. Lynn, D., Umari, T., Dellavalle, R. and Dunnick, C. (2016). The epidemiology of acne vulgaris in late adolescence. Adolescent Health, Medicine and Therapeutics, p.13. Maslow, A. (1943). A theory of human motivation. Psychological Review, 50(4), pp.370-396. McLean, S., Paxton, S., Wertheim, E. and Masters, J. (2015). Photoshopping the selfie: Self photo editing and photo investment are associated with body dissatisfaction in adolescent girls. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 48(8), pp.1132-1140. Meho, L. (2006). E-mail interviewing in qualitative research: A methodological discussion. Journal of the American Society for Information Science and Technology, 57(10), pp.1284-1295.

Miller, A. (1970). Role of physical attractiveness in impression formation. Psychonomic Science, 19(4), pp.241-243. Mizara, A., Badsha, K., Griffiths, M. and McBride, S. (2014). A retrospective review of a dedicated psychology-based psychodermatology service. British Journal of Dermatology, pp.26-27. Moradi, B. (2010). Addressing Gender and Cultural Diversity in Body Image: Objectification Theory as a Framework for Integrating Theories and Grounding Research. Sex Roles, 63(1-2), pp.138-148. Murray, D. (2013). Branding “Real” Social Change in Dove’s Campaign for Real Beauty. Feminist Media Studies, 13(1), pp.83-101. Myers, T., Ridolfi, D., Crowther, J. and Ciesla, J. (2012). The impact of appearance-focused social comparisons on body image disturbance in the naturalistic environment: The roles of thin-ideal internalization and feminist beliefs. Body Image, 9(3), pp.342-351. Nestor, M., Stillman, M. and Frisina, A. (2010). Subjective and Objective Facial Attractiveness Ratings and Gender Differences in Objective Appraisals of Female Faces. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, [online] 3(12), pp.31-36. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC3013552/ [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Nguyen, C., Beroukhim, K., Danesh, M., Babikian, A., Koo, J. and Leon, A. (2016). The psychosocial impact of acne, vitiligo, and psoriasis: a review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, Volume 9, pp.383-392. Patton, M. (2005). Qualitative Research. Encyclopedia of Statistics in Behavioral Science. Poli, F., Dreno, B. and Verschoore, M. (2001). An epidemiological study of acne in female adults: results of a survey conducted in France. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 15(6), pp.541-545. Rahman, M. (2016). The Advantages and Disadvantages of Using Qualitative and Quantitative Approaches and Methods in Language “Testing and Assessment” Research: A Literature Review. Journal of Education and Learning, [online] 6(1), p.102. Available at: http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/jel.v6n1p102 [Accessed 2 Jan. 2020]. Ramphul, K. and Mejias, S. (2018). Is “Snapchat Dysmorphia” a Real Issue?. Cureus. Ritvo, E., Del Rosso, J., Stillman, M. and La Riche, C. (2011). Psychosocial judgements and perceptions of adolescents with acne vulgaris: A blinded, controlled comparison of adult and peer evaluations. BioPsychoSocial Medicine, 5(1), p.11. Senra, M. and Wollenberg, A. (2014). Psychodermatological aspects of atopic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 170, pp.38-43. Thompson, A. (2009). Psychosocial impact of skin conditions. Dermatological Nursing, 8(1), p.4. van Beugen, S., Maas, J., van Laarhoven, A., Galesloot, T., Rinck, M., Becker, E., van de Kerkhof, P., van Middendorp, H. and Evers, A. (2016). Implicit stigmatization-related biases in individuals with skin conditions and their significant others. Health Psychology, 35(8), pp.861-865.

Wang, J., Rieder, E., Schoenberg, E., Zachary, C. and Saedi, N. (2019). Patient perception of beauty on social media: Professional and bioethical obligations in esthetics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Yan, Y. and Bissell, K. (2014). The Globalization of Beauty: How is Ideal Beauty Influenced by Globally Published Fashion and Beauty Magazines?. Journal of Intercultural Communication Research, 43(3), pp.194-214.

VIDEOS i-D (2018). Is Acne the Final Frontier of Body Positivity?. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTZoNGJyj7o [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. WGSN (2017). Live Q&A: What is the Future of Beauty?. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4M_fdZiWy4s [Accessed 19 Jan. 2020].

PODCASTS Dokia, E. (2019). 8. [podcast] Skin Positivity with Lex Gillies. Available at: https://open.spotify.com/episode/4RBZyunpO0raD07eCZVgK8 [Accessed 29 Dec. 2019].

PRESS RELEASE Shiseido (2019). Shiseido Launches Full-Scale IoT*1 Skincare Service Brand “Optune”.

REPORTS Achieve (2017). The Millenial Impact Report. Allied Market Research (2016). Global Men Personal Care Market. [online] Available at: https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/men-personal-caremarket [Accessed 19 Jan. 2020]. Allied Market Research (2018). Acne Medication Market Beauty Con Media (2019). FOMO Beauty Con. Deloitte (2017). Shades for success | Influence in the beauty market. [online] Available at: https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/cn/ Documents/international-business-support/deloitte-cn-ibs-france-beauty-market-en-2017.pdf [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. EntSight (2019). Men’s Skincare. Live Area (2019). More Than Skin Deep. Meredith (2017). Women 2020. [online] Available at: https://www.insightsinmarketing.com/media/1170/women2020_millennial_051415__2_.pdf [Accessed 21 Jan. 2020].

THE : FUTURE : LABORATORY; LSN Global (2020). BEAUTY FUTURES 2019. WGSN (2018). Skin Tech: Mespoke Beauty.

WEBSITES Abbersteen, L. (2019). Brexit Panic Is Even Having An Impact On Our Beauty Shopping Habits. [online] Marie Claire. Available at: https://www.marieclaire. co.uk/news/beauty-news/brexit-beauty-shopping-648870 [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Boreham, A. (2018). Sex Sells: Skincare, Slap and Insecurity. [online] Medium. Available at: https://medium.com/writing-in-the-media/sex-sells-skincare-slapand-insecurity-d29ab86c3d39 [Accessed 9 Dec. 2019]. Born, P. (2018). How Instagram and a New Zeitgeist Are Driving Skin Care’s Growth. [online] WWD. Available at: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/skincare/instagram-new-zeitgeist-driving-skin-cares-growth-1202762529/ [Accessed 15 Jan. 2020]. Chakelian, A. (2018). Millennial blemishes: How skin realism in shows like The Bisexual affects modern audiences. [online] NewStatesman. Available at: https://www.newstatesman.com/culture/tv-radio/2018/10/millennial-adult-acne-how-skin-realism-shows-bisexual-affects-audiences [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Chemberry.com. (2019). “Skinfluencers” are the key to success in the millennial skin care and cosmetic market. [online] Available at: https://blog. chemberry.com/skinfluencers-in-personal-care [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019]. Chitrakorn, K. (2016). Is the Global Cosmetics Market Moving Towards a Cruelty-Free Future?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/inside-beauty/is-the-global-cosmetics-market-moving-towards-a-cruelty-free-future [Accessed 16 Jan. 2020]. Chitrakorn, K. (2019). Men Are Changing. Are Brands Keeping Up?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/intelligence/men-are-changing-are-brands-keeping-up [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Cochrane, L. (2018). Is there a dark side to the growing obsession with skincare?. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/2018/jun/21/is-there-dark-side-to-growing-obsession-with-skincare [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Culliney, K. (2020). Blockchain beauty: ‘For the moment, it remains relatively niche’, says GlobalData. [online] Cosmetics design-europe. Available at: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2020/01/17/Blockchain-beauty-industry-promise-in-personalisation-customer-experience-says-GlobalData [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Dahl, M. (2017). The Science of How Your Feelings Affect Your Face. [online] The Cut. Available at: https://www.thecut.com/2017/08/psychodermatologycure-acne-skin-problems-psychotherapy.html [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Deloitte (2017). Shades for success | Influence in the beauty market. [online] Available at: https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/cn/Documents/ international-business-support/deloitte-cn-ibs-france-beauty-market-en-2017.pdf [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020].

Economy, P. (2019). A New Study of 150,000 Millennials Reveals They Have 10 Surprising Things in Common. [online] Inc. Available at: https://www.inc. com/peter-economy/a-new-study-of-150000-millennials-revealed-that-they-have-these-10-surprising-things-in-common.html [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Euromonitor International. (2018). Dermocosmetics: The Junction of Skin Care and Health and Wellness. [online] Available at: https://blog.euromonitor. com/dermocosmetics-the-junction-of-skin-care-and-health-and-wellness/ [Accessed 21 Dec. 2019]. Euromonitor International. (2019). Dismantling Gender Stereotypes with Genderless Beauty. [online] Available at: https://blog.euromonitor.com/ dismantling-gender-stereotypes-with-genderless-beauty/ [Accessed 21 Dec. 2019]. Friend, H. (2018). ACNE POSITIVITY. [online] LS:N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/micro-trends/article/22484/acnepositivity [Accessed 13 Dec. 2019]. Garcia, A. (2019). The skincare industry is booming, fueled by informed consumers and social media. [online] CNN Business. Available at: https://edition. cnn.com/2019/05/10/business/skincare-industry-trends-beauty-social-media/index.html [Accessed 15 Jan. 2020]. Global Cosmetic Industry. (2014). Online Beauty Communities Show Influence. [online] Available at: https://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/ segments/cosmetics/Online-Beauty-Communities-Show-Influence-252722641.html [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Grady, C. (2019). The skin care wars, explained. [online] Vox. Available at: https://www.vox.com/culture/2018/3/9/17064498/women-skin-care-warsexplained [Accessed 2 Dec. 2019]. Hickson, A. and Blumenthal, L. (2019). The Self Care Obsession. [online] Tufts Observer. Available at: https://tuftsobserver.org/the-self-care-obsession/ [Accessed 15 Dec. 2019]. Huda Beauty. (2019). Why Psychodermatology Is The Real Key To Better Skin. [online] Available at: https://hudabeauty.com/psychodermatology/ [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Inkwood Research. (2018). Global Beauty & Personal Care Products Market Forecast 2018-2026. [online] Available at: https://www.inkwoodresearch.com/ reports/beauty-personal-care-products-market/ [Accessed 21 Jan. 2020]. Khatib, H. (2020). “Skin is not good or bad; it’s not a point of conversation”: Decoding the skin neutrality movement. [online] Vogue India. Available at: https://www.vogue.in/wellness/content/skin-care-movement-what-is-skin-neutrality-skin-positivity [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Lawlor, S. (2019). Blockchain technology is being used to lift the lid on false claims in the beauty industry and it’s set to change the way we shop. [online] Glamour. Available at: https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/what-is-blockchain-technology [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Linkage Research & Consulting. (2019). 4 Ways Millennials are Changing the Beauty Industry. [online] Available at: https://linkageresearch.com/millennialschanging-beauty/ [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019].

London, B. (2019). This inspiring woman campaigned for Instagram to change its policies on skin conditions. [online] Glamourmagazine.co.uk. Available at: https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/lex-gillies-rosacea-instagram [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Medium. (2017). How your insecurities are bought and sold. [online] Available at: https://medium.com/@clelementine00/how-your-insecurities-are-boughtand-sold-be129a88bc30 [Accessed 10 Jan. 2020]. Mintel. (2016). Facial Skincare And Anti-Aging - US - May 2016. [online] Available at: https://store.mintel.com/facial-skincare-and-anti-aging-us-may2016?cookie_test=true [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Mintel. (2019). 28% of UK women have reduced their skincare routine. [online] Available at: https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-and-personalcare/28-of-uk-women-have-reduced-the-number-of-products-in-their-skincare-routine [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Moneysupermarket.com. (2019). Buying Mood Index. [online] Available at: https://www.moneysupermarket.com/money-made-easy/buying-mood-index/ [Accessed 8 Dec. 2019]. Perry, P. (2018). Millennials are at higher risk for mental health issues. This may be why.. [online] Big Think. Available at: https://bigthink.com/philipperry/millennials-are-at-higher-risk-for-mental-health-issues-this-may-be-why [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Pike, H. (2015). Is Natural Beauty Only Skin Deep?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/ natural-beauty-market-chemical-cosmetics [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Prendergast, C. (2019). Has imperfection become the latest unrealistic beauty ideal?. [online] Dazed. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/ soul/article/43078/1/imperfection-become-the-latest-unrealistic-beauty-ideal-body-positivity [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Rapp, J. (2019). Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skincare 2.0. [online] JWT Intelligence. Available at: https://www.jwtintelligence.com/2019/08/mens-skincare-2-0/ [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Rearick, L. (2018). When Skin Care Is Also Self-Care. [online] Huffingtonpost. Available at: https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/skin-care-is-self-care_n_ 5a86e975e4b00bc49f4341dc?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAJ2kM08JaOxaYW2_Wh0UEN 47YX7HWU0WDGmo0pyY7H8c5n8pEugTXgAWZL64Erx-KagmePSgb09-1aI7bz15P4-V02MStvZ6e62boMHud61AjazwF2oUyb7PMc4OJDUpt4GF5jV_w3neXrGo_ RY3SBMm-uXVh0nMuzUrgi7hQ4F4 [Accessed 15 Jan. 2020]. Silva, C. (2017). The Millennial Obsession With Self-care. [online] NPR. Available at: https://www.npr.org/2017/06/04/531051473/the-millennial-obsessionwith-self-care [Accessed 15 Dec. 2019]. Smith, J. (2018). WHY BEAUTY BRANDS NEED A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO DIVERSITY. [online] LSN: Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm. oclc.org/beauty/article/22198/why-beauty-brands-need-a-holistic-approach-to-diversity [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Smith, J. (2019). MIDDLE MAN BEAUTY MARKET. [online] Www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/ markets/article/24993/middle-man-beauty-market [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019].

Smith, J. and Piras, L. (2019). Skincare Networks. [online] LS:N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/beauty/article/24963/ skincare-networks [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Smithers, R. (2017). Consumers being misled by labelling on ‘organic’ beauty products, report shows. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www. theguardian.com/environment/2017/apr/24/consumers-being-misled-by-labelling-on-organic-beauty-products-report-shows [Accessed 16 Jan. 2020]. Solis, M. (2019). The Rise of the Minimalist Skincare Routine. [online] Vice. Available at: https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/ywypb5/do-you-really-need-askincare-routine-korean-beauty-dermatologists [Accessed 2 Dec. 2019]. Sturgis, I. (2016). The rise of adult acne is ‘like an epidemic’. [online] The Telegraph. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/health-fitness/body/the-riseof-adult-acne-is-like-an-epidemic/ [Accessed 11 Dec. 2019]. Sturgis, I. (2016). The rise of adult acne is ‘like an epidemic’. [online] The Telegraph. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/health-fitness/body/the-riseof-adult-acne-is-like-an-epidemic/ [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Taylor, E. (2017). The impact of post-Brexit Britain on the beauty industry. [online] Professional Beauty. Available at: https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/site/ newsdetails/revealed-the-impact-of-brexit-on-the-beauty-industry [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. The Business of Fashion. (2018). The Evolution of the Influencer Economy. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sponsoredfeature/the-evolution-of-the-influencer-economy [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Tolentino, J. (2017). The Year That Skin Care Became a Coping Mechanism. [online] The New Yorker. Available at: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/ cultural-comment/the-year-that-skin-care-became-a-coping-mechanism?verso=true# [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Valentine, O. (2019). How social media is reshaping the beauty industry. [online] We Are Social. Available at: https://wearesocial.com/blog/2019/07/howsocial-media-is-reshaping-the-beauty-industry [Accessed 13 Jan. 2020]. Vallis, B. (2019). The beauty brands the nation is stockpiling ahead of Brexit. [online] Get The Gloss. Available at: https://www.getthegloss.com/news/brexitis-causing-us-to-stockpile-our-beauty-buys [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020]. Varagur, K. (2018). The skincare Con. [online] The Outline. Available at: https://theoutline.com/post/3151/the-skincare-con-glossier-drunk-elephantbiologique-recherche-p50?zd=2&zi=k3yeyplu [Accessed 14 Dec. 2019]. Weatherford, A. (2018). Why Everybody’s Obsessed With Skin Care Right Now. [online] The Cut. Available at: https://www.thecut.com/2018/01/everybodyobsessed-with-skincare-now.html [Accessed 16 Dec. 2019]. Weinstock, T. (2018). this photographer takes beautiful portraits of people with acne. [online] I-d. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/j5ajg7/ this-photographer-takes-beautiful-portraits-of-people-with-acne [Accessed 15 Dec. 2019].

Weinstock, T. (2018). why showing natural skin shouldn’t come as such a shock. [online] I-d. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/kzx5g9/whyshowing-natural-skin-shouldnt-come-as-such-a-shock [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Whitbread, L. (2019). Does your skin need therapy?. [online] Dazed. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/body/article/43712/1/does-your-skinneed-therapy-pysche-psycodermatology [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019]. Yarbough, J. (2019). ‘Acne Neutrality’ May Be a Better Confidence-Boosting Benchmark Than ‘Acne Positivity’. [online] Fashionista. Available at: https:// fashionista.com/2019/11/acne-skin-positivity-neutrality [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Yee, T. (2019). Big Ideas 2021: Beauty. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/82211 [Accessed 17 Jan. 2020].

6.3 List of Illustrations FRONT COVER Ha,L. (n.d). Not only skin deep. Available at: https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1542833807-ad5af0977050?ixlib=rb1.2.1&ixid=eyJhcHBfaWQiOjEyMDd9&auto=format&fit=crop&w=634&q=80[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.1 Iconsdb.(n.d).Star Icon. Available at:hhttps://www.iconsdb.com/icons/preview/pink/star-xxl.png[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.2 Mark,J.(2018).Acne Matters. Available at:https://i.pinimg.com/564x/4f/1b/ad/4f1bad5ade273d61de202935f66cb18f.jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.3 Nguyen,P.(2018).Face Mask. Available at: https://img2.domino.com/dom/image/upload/w_800,q_auto:best,c_limit/ v1537830237/5a663790727e7f083ec16dcb-h1000_yds7fd.png[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.4 Refinery29. (2018). Skincare Shelfie. Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/564x/0c/12/fe/0c12fe02ebece988f21e4fa6ba2d5831.jpg [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.5 Stoyanova,D.(2018).Self-care. Available at:https://cdn.dribbble.com/users/1312159/screenshots/4132939/cosmetics-dribbble.png [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.6 DeVito,P.(2017).Acne Normalisation.Available at:https://www.instagram.com/p/BYoc6a9jdvB/?utm_source=ig_embed[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.7 DeVito,P.(2017).Skin Realism.Available at:https://www.theeatculture.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/1526317186793-peter-2. jpeg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.8 DeVito,P.(2017).Too Femme.Available at:https://main-designyoutrust.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ peterdevito_28764487_1704067792965615_1277955127944151040_n.jpg?iv=110 [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.10 Silverman,A.(2019).Skincare Research Available at:https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/images/reddit-leadopt6-1573243829.gif?resize=2048:* [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.11 123RF.(n.d).Skincare Routine Icons Available at:https://previews.123rf.com/images/irinastrel123/irinastrel1231705/ irinastrel123170500005/78490350-skin-care-routine-icons-set-in-line-style-vector-illustration-.jpg [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.12 Plaatjies,L.(2016).Hurt. Available at:https://mir-s3-cdn-cf.behance.net/project_modules/fs/dbdedb45524817.584d28e0c8a11.png [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.13 DeVito,P.(2017).Love Yourself.Available at:https://main-designyoutrust.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ peterdevito_26372484_2006442763014086_7070804045224476672_n.jpg?iv=110[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.14 Nguyen,P.(2016).Skin Mask Illustration. Available at:https://img2.domino.com/dom/image/upload/w_800,q_auto:best,c_limit/ v1538004297/58498de0eeb90a08340c67de-h1000_vvazwm.png[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.15 Byworth,E.(2018).Skin Conditions Illustration. Available at:https://i2.wp.com/metro.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/skin-typesfeature.png?quality=90&strip=all&zoom=1&resize=644%2C483&ssl=1[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.16 Dove.(2019).Dove ShowUs Campaign Available at:https://res.cloudinary.com/wnotw/images/c_limit,w_1536,q_auto:best,f_auto/ v1560976050/e20khn61v3iit0rvwiur/dove-x-girlgaze-x-getty-project-showus[Accessed 18th Jan.2020]. Fig.17 Cole,L.(2018).Self Hate. Available at:https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media ff428d5498f11ea110e6f2f2def1c7c5aca6e6ac/0_0_1695_1874/master/1695 jpg?width=620&quality=45&auto=format&fit=max&dpr=2&s=d8d98a2b6038db3a0b957a7a7bb329d4[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.18 Glamour.(2019).Mental Thunder. Available at:https://gl-images.condecdn.net/image/DKev4oYYRZl/crop/2040/0.46875/f/ gettyimages-991368968_sf.jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.19Lee Photography.(2016).Vitligo Realism.Available at:https://66.media.tumblr.com/8043314a966dce8ba5836b2bc6c479f7/tumblr_ o0q3cwOHA01rqbro0o1_1280.jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.20 Taylor,S.(2018).Epidermis Project. Available at:https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/thumbnails/image/2019/08/16/11/lex. jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.21 Taylor,S.(2018).Epidermis Project. Available at:http://www.bjp-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/HOLY.jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.22 GatesGallerie.(n.d).Winnie Harlow Art. Available at:https://i.etsystatic.com/17123981/r/il/c36b5b/1489605716/ il_1588xN.1489605716_6it1.jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.23 The Cut.(2018).Skincare Obsession. Available at:https://pixel.nymag.com/imgs/fashion/daily/2018/01/31/31-skincare1.w512. h600.2x.jpg[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.24 Blume.(2019).Blume Campaign .Available at:https://www.stylist.co.uk/images/app/uploads/2019/09/02130744/blume-acne-skinpositivity-1680x1120.jpg?w=1640&h=1&fit=max&auto=format%2Ccompress[Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

Fig.25 DeVito,P.(2017).Vitligo Man.Available at:https://www.collater.al/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/peter-devito-Collater.al-8.jpg [Accessed 18th Jan.2020].

6.4 Appendix Appendix 1A Blank Questionnaire Part 1 1. What is your gender? -Female -Male 2. How old are you ? -18-24 25-32 33-39 3. On a scale from 0 to 10 how happy are you with your skin right now? 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 4. Why have you given this rating (Space to write answer) 5. Do you follow a skincare routine? -Always -Usually -Sometimes -Rarely -Never

6. What does your skincare routine normally consist of? (Space to write answer) 7. If you do not follow a skincare routine, please explain why (Space to write answer) 8. Are you currently aware of your skin type and what products work best for you? (Space to write answer) 9. What beauty mean to you Confidence level can change my perception of someones physical beauty. Being comfortable in your own skin and owning your imperpections Having a clear skin Keeping youthful appearance Having an Instagram ‘trendy/worthy’ looks Looking healthy and natural Looking differently than how it is portrayed in the media For me beauty can’t be defined 10. Do you think that beauty and skincare brands target their customers based on their insecurities in order to make a profit ? -Yes -No -Maybe -Not sure 11. Please choose from the following you think puts pressure on how our skin should look like? -Social Media -TV Adverts -Movie and TV Shows

-Celebrities/ Influencers -Print Media -Outdoor Advertising 12. In your opinion what do you see is often lacking within the beauty and skincare brand marketing when it comes to the portrayal of skin and skin conditions? (Space to write answer) 13. Please choose if your skin made you ever feel any of the following -Unattractive -Self-conscious -Need to have meds or cover-up available -Self-confidence affected -Embarrassed -Dissatisfied with self-appearance -Confident -Proud -Satisfied -Grateful 14. What advice would you give to someone who is currently experiencing or has permanent skin problems? (Space to write answer) 15. Do you agree with the sentence: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Skin condition reflects health condition in general and plays a role in both physical and mental health maintenanceâ&#x20AC;? -Yes -No -Maybe -Not sure 16. Would you change something on your face/skin if you could? If so please explain why and what (Space to write answer)

17. Do you have any skin concerns/conditions? (Space to write answer)

Appendix 1A Blank Questionnaire Part 1 1. What is your current skin concern? (Space to write answer) 2. What areas of day-to-day life does your skin condition have the biggest impact on? Very Low Impact Low Impact Neutral Impact Big Impact Very Big Impact -It puts an emotional strain on family relations/member -Relationships with friends -Sexual relations -A fall in self-confidence -Work life -Making new friends -Finding a partner -School life/education -It has no impact on my day-to-day life 3. What feelings have your skin concern evoked? -Confidence -Gratitude -Pride -Satisfaction -Embarrassment -Self-consciousness -Worry/anxiety -Social isolation -That life is not worth living -Self-Love -Other please specify 4. In terms of emotional support, who do you turn to most when it comes to the skin problem? -Friends -Family -Online forums/group (e.g. on Facebook) -Support line/Helpline

-My local GP/nurse -A support group of some kind 5. Do you use social media?

-Yes -No -Sometimes 6. Have you ever taken at least one of the following actions on social media to avoid displaying your skin (problem)? -Chose not to include a photo on social media -Deleted or untagged a photo of myself where my “problem” shows -Asked someone else to take down a photo of me -Altered, edited, retouched, or cropped a photo to try and hide it -Avoided having my picture taken with someone who had clearer skin -Stayed off of social media (e.g., Facebook, Instagram, etc.) so I wouldn’t have to post/see photos of myself 7. To what extent do you agree with the following sentence: Totally disagree Disagree Neither agree or disagree Agree Totally Agree -Social media can increase the anxiety of people who experience skin problems -Social media makes dealing with skin problems in real life harder -Social media plays a role in creating an unrealistic beauty standards -Showing natural skin on social media comes often as shocking/ daring 8. What in your opinion makes skin conditions still stigmatised in our society? (Space to write answer) 9. Please specify how it can be improved (Space to write answer)

Appendix 1C Online Questionnaire Part 1 Results

Skin Changes from dry to oily Sometimes I have skin rushes due to allergies which leave a long lasting mark on my skin Pretože nie som spokojná so svojou pleťou. Dovodom sú pozostatky po akné a vyrážky ktoré sa tvoria v zasvislosti od toho, či sa starám o svoju pleť alebo nie. I have a few scars from spots and have slight pigmentation and rosacea Rosacea My skins is bad As I have some scarring from breakouts. So there could be improvements My skin goes bright red randomly and i have had acne since a child I have Rosacea so my skin isn’t always perfect Spots and blemishes Currently I have very dry skin and some scars on my face, so I’m not too happy with my skin. Acne some crinkles because I am stressed skin problems I dont pay that much attention to my skin to be insecure about it. It’s fairly easy to maintain and I have minimal breakouts but it’s very dry and I find it hard to find suitable products It has recently got a lot clearer I have exem on my skin too dry Spotty Because my skin have some issues. i have some spots i have a lot of pimples right now and i had problems with my skin since I was about 12 years old. I have an open pores condition which isn’t noticeable to most but me and I have started getting freckles. A lot of things can still be improved on I am continually dealing with skin issues. These reflect on my confidence and self-love. I get spots. I was blessed with good genes but started to see fine lines My skin is radiant and spotless but I have noticed my first wrinkles it’s mostly okay but i experience break outs often when stressed and after using makeup I have big pores and rosacea I have a few breakouts but nothing major “My skin has improved over the past 2 years “ Wrinkles have begun My due my period so i have a period related spot Genetics Recently developed mild hormonal acne I still get occasional breakouts and now am noticing wrinkles I used to have a acne. Now in following a treatment and it has improved. I still have a few, and multiple scars left from previous acne. I feel things are under control now for my skin, and I’m happy abt that Skin appearance is fine just have really dry and itchy skin My skin has improved but still has issues with redness and acne scarring Lebo mám milie Get achne some times so never liked my skin and I have exams so I’m getting breakouts not been breaking out recently - not tanned though as been dark early etc

My skin is fairly clear and easy to look after My skin used to be much worse when I was younger, now it’s improving . I have few imperfections on my face It’s ok I feel confident enough with my skin to not need to wear makeup, it is quite clear but not perfect Not acne prone skin but a few marks I have some dermatitis around my mouth and hormonal acne It’s better than it usually is, but still not perfect Cause it can be better i don’t get spots much anymore like i used to but i still have quite a few blackheads that are hard to get rid of Acne scars and a few spots here and there I have good skin but have been having breakouts My skin varies and can be combination I have quite good skin Because I Thanks my skin is ok No pimples, red spots or acne. Would like it to be softer and more hydrated though. It’s very greasy and i have acne I’ve never been happy with my skin, it always seems flawed. I’m stressed so I have poor skin at the moment My skin is great but has a few imperfections. Skin has been quite clear but still a bit dry It’s mostly clear, I only ever get a few blemishes usually I have nice skin, no spots and soft My Skin is clear and i am happy with it without makeup on My skin is very clear. No spktd or dryness Satisfied Because it still could be better and sometimes I tend to have some imperfections. My skin could be more radiant, more uniform. And during winter tend to be very dry I don’t like my dark spots. My skin is really weird. Though I wont say its the worse when comparing it with others- the 0 rating is quite frankly because i just have a low self esteem. I dont really like my face and how easily acne shows up but thats also because of my bad sleeping habits and inability to buy skincare products. My skin is also pretty sensitive to certain soaps. it is ok but still imperfections Spots, blemishes, redness I have clear skin without needing cosmetic coverage or skin clearing products It’s good at the moment Pretty happy, just not with getting older I do not have any blemishes at the moment but I still feel my skin could be better. I never had a problem with acne. Just my period acne comes every once in a while. Skin used to be perfect during adolescence but since a close family bereavement spots have started coming up left, right and center Acts up when I’m stressed A bit of wrinkles it always could be better Few spots pop up because of the weather It’s clear and relatively wrinkle free. I would give it a 10 but I currently have a rash on my face. my skin has got better lately, i started to care about my skin more, also i had acid treatment on my face Skin is pretty clear Clear skin It is clear. No spots

I have quite a few spots at the minute It’s clear and easy to manage but is a bit dry this time of year I’ve adopted a better skin-care routine and the results are great, despite the bad weather and the season Generally have good skin Some issues with texture I LOVE MY SKINCARE AND I LOVE MY SKIN BUT I DONT LIKE WEARING MAKE UP - EVERYTIME I DO IT LOOKS BIT PATCHY... SO FOR THAT REASON I AM GIVING IT 7 My skin feels pretty healthy, I have a couple of spots/blemishes but apart from that it’s fine Not so smooth, sometimes reddish, black dots It’s blotchy, has stretch marks in some places, is loose around my stomach, and the blackheads on my nose won’t go away. I just roll with what I’ve got It could be better with expensive procedures It’s pretty good There’s always a tiny bit of acne but overall I feel pretty good about my skin Because is soft I’m happy Some spots, not that bothered It could be better Dry skin i am satisfied Because I take good care of my skin and it shows I still get occasional breakouts and now am noticing wrinkles My skin is very clear. No spktd or dryness It’s ok My skin used to be much worse when I was younger, now it’s improving . Because it still could be better and sometimes I tend to have some imperfections. My skin could be more radiant, more uniform. And during winter tend to be very dry Not so smooth, sometimes reddish, black dots It’s clear and easy to manage but is a bit dry this time of year Lebo mám milie Rosacea I have nice skin, no spots and soft It’s good at the moment I am continually dealing with skin issues. These reflect on my confidence and self-love. My skin has improved over the past 2 years My skin is great but has a few imperfections. I have an open pores condition which isn’t noticeable to most but me and I have started getting freckles. It’s mostly clear, I only ever get a few blemishes usually It has recently got a lot clearer I have exem on my skin Wrinkles have begun I do not have any blemishes at the moment but I still feel my skin could be better. I have Rosacea so my skin isn’t always perfect Skin appearance is fine just have really dry and itchy skin i am satisfied Get achne some times so never liked my skin and I have exams so I’m getting breakouts I have big pores and rosacea I’ve never been happy with my skin, it always seems flawed. Pretože nie som spokojná so svojou pleťou. Dovodom sú pozostatky po akné a vyrážky ktoré sa tvoria v zasvislosti od toho, či sa starám o svoju pleť alebo nie. Because I Thanks my skin is ok Cause it can be better I don’t like my dark spots.

it always could be better I’m stressed so I have poor skin at the moment Because my skin have some issues. I have few imperfections on my face skin problems Acne Satisfied Because is soft My due my period so i have a period related spot my skin has got better lately, i started to care about my skin more, also i had acid treatment on my face Recently developed mild hormonal acne Acts up when I’m stressed some crinkles because I am stressed Some issues with texture Clear skin As I have some scarring from breakouts. So there could be improvements Spots and blemishes I have good skin but have been having breakouts Spotty My skin is fairly clear and easy to look after I get spots. I have quite a few spots at the minute My skin has improved but still has issues with redness and acne scarring I’ve adopted a better skin-care routine and the results are great, despite the bad weather and the season My skin goes bright red randomly and i have had acne since a child Few spots pop up because of the weather Skin Changes from dry to oily Skin used to be perfect during adolescence but since a close family bereavement spots have started coming up left, right and center I have some dermatitis around my mouth and hormonal acne No spots

Cleansing wipes I have a shaving routine (oil, gel, aftershave), or a normal daily routine when I don’t get shaved (facial cream). I use either masks or face scrub products every second week. Cleaner, toner, cream a nejaká maska sem-tam Cleanse, moisturise Cleanser, vit. c, moisturizer, sunscreen, eye cream Cleanser, toner, moisturiser Oil cleansing, toner, CBD cream, clay mask, coffee scrub Simple Wipes, toner, tea tree serum, vit e oil, moisturiser Face wash then moisturiser Micellar water and spot moisturiser For face: Toner, lotion, emulsion, day cream/thicker night cream and oil. Cleansing, toning and moisturising face creme, body creme, cleaning water, mask washing gel Washing my face with soap, toner, moisturizer (aloe vera) Face wash, toner and moisturiser and occasionally face masks cleanse face/exfoliate, acne treatment, moisturise - once every few weeks I do a face mask washing the skin and applying skin oil washing and skin cream Face wash, toner and moisturise Cleanser gel, cleansing water, retinol/vitamin C/AHA and moisturizer and during the winter oil as well exfoliating, toning and moisturising cleaning my face in the morning and in the evening, wear less make-up, use something to reduce oily skin (mostly at night) Cleanse, exfoliate, moisturise washing face with soap, moisturizer, oral meds prescribed by dermatologist “AM / gentle cleanser, hyaluronic acid serum, niacinamide + zinc serum, moisturizer PM / make-up removal, charcoal soap, masque (different types), glycolic acid toner, salicylic acid based spot treatment, mandelic acid serum or granactive retinoid emulsion, heavy moisturizer” Face wash, a sodium face cream, moisturiser and if I have a spot an anti blemish cream to put onto the spot. Moisturizer after shower, vitamin c and quartz massage for the face every once in a while. Moisturizer For my face in the cold harsh weather. Morning: Cleansing, Toner / Booster, Eye cream, Face cream; Evening: Cleansing, Night cream, eye cream washing my face with a bioderma serum Rosacea cream Cleanser, toner, moisturiser and shaving face. Toner, eye cream, moisturizer, sunscreen Eye cream and face cream Miscellukar water to remove makeup and aquais cream after that Facewash, sometimes moisturiser “Am: Wash face with water, toner, moisturizer, sunscreen Pm: Cleanser, actives, moisturizer “ Noxzema, niacinamide, Rose hip oil Facewash/ showergel, moisturising cream. Occasionally serum, exfoliant, facemask and sunscreen. Lotion Cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser, sunscreen- sometimes a mask Odlicovanie a kremovanie Cleanse and toner

wash face with flannel, then apply moisturiser before make up Daily face wash and occasional face masks or scrubs Double cleanse, toner, essence, serum, moisturizer, spf Cleaning foam, micellar lotion, hydrating cream Moistures Cleanser, face masks, toner, serum, moisturiser Toner, moisturizer and sunscreen in the summer cleanser, toner, vitamin c serum, moisturizer/sunscreen, and eye cream in the morning; cleanser, toner, bha/aha treatment, phyto-retinol serum, moisturizer, eye cream and face oil at night; microdermabrasion exfoliant and clay mask also used weekly Make up remover, face wash, exfoliater, cleanser, toner and moisturiser Clensing, retinol,moisturiser,spf exfoliate with a clay product and warm water and then toner afterwards Morning everyday face wash and moisturiser; evening cleansing balm, tonic and moisturiser Cleanser, scrub, moisturiser Wash with cleanser, use toner & moisturiser in evening Day and night creams, serum Scrub, mask and cream Wash my face with tap water or micellair water, use moisturizing cream. I have two products for greasy skin, one is a mattifying toner and the other one si self-foaming face wash in the mornings: wash with skin wash and moisturise, before bed: clean with cleanser, rinse, and moistourise sometimes exfoliate first. Wash my face with a gel wash, apply a moisturizer. Sometimes toner if I remember. Sometimes apply sweet almond or avocado oil. Cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser Exfoliating, facial wash, toner, face mask (twice a week) and then moisturizer Putting on moisturising cream after I wash my face in the morning and after I shower at night make up wipe for removal, cleanser, micellar water, moisturiser Using facial wash and then a moisturiser Lotion, cream Deep cleaning and anti-imperfection cream, based on zinc I clean my face twice - three times a day, I use proper winter and summer face cream, I use SPF. Make-up remover, face wash foam and treatment gel Washing my face after eating food, washing my face if I used makeup that day, using fragrance free vitamin E aloe wipes for wiping my face when i’m outside of the house after food Everyday moisturising, often cleansing and exfoliating, occasionally use face masks Exfoliating, moisturising, under eye cream Exfoliate my fave 2 times a week and sprits with a facial rose, and aloe spray almost everyday. Gel, exfoliant, moisturize Wash my face , tone (evenings only) and moisturise twice a day Baking soda face wash for blemishes, Bio Oil or Argan Oil for dry skin, Aloe vera gel for redness & tea tree oil on acne spots (not all the time) Cream, tonic cream, cleaning water, cleaning gel Home made mask, rose water, exfoliation and moisturiser Wash face with exfoliating face wash and apply moisturizer makeup toner, or facewipes (rarely), moisturizing cream (cethapil) Just coconut oil and sometimes clay face mask Washing morning and night Wash with water, followed by serum and moisturise. Washing my face, pore cleanser, toner, vitamin e oil, face moisturiser Cleanse and moisturised Every morning I wash my face with a tea-tree-oil-based soap, moisturize with a Shea butter-based natural cream. At night I wash my face with the same soap and apply a night vitamin C serum. Twice a week I do face masks/peeling treatments: once a week a peeling treatment, and once a week I apply a ginseng/rice purifying mask

Morning and evening cleanse, moisturize and mask once a week Wash, scrub, moisturiser. AHA once a week, BHA once in two weeks. WELL... TAKE ALL THAT MAKE UP OFF...WASH YOUR FACE, ACID ONCE A WEEK, HYALURONIC ACID SERUM EVERYDAY, OILS, CREAM AND FACIALS TWICE A WEEK Exfoliating facewash in shower, apply moisturiser after. Washing my face with Cetaphil eye cream(night shifts) & facial scrub Cleanse, Tone, Moisturise, Sun cream Face wash and moisturiser Clearcill qcne scrub for 2 minutes in shower every other day Nothing Moisturiser for dry skin Washing face with soap in morning shaving, using afer shave gel, cleaning Face wash, toner, moisturiser, serums, masks, over night masks

N/A Never bothered to I think it’s important to take care of your skin due to all the pollution in the air effect the quality of skin and to keep it looking healthy as we age. I ‘m lazy or have less time I do Sometimes I don’t have time or energy with all 3 kids Takes time, don ‘t always feel like it. I don’t like it When I’m too tired or traveling. I have too many products, so I don’t usually take all of them with me on travels. not enough time. often just at home and when i go to school, its just come and go for checking of my work. could not commit myself to it. I get depressed and don’t even shower I’m lazy and don’t know skincare products Lebo som lenivá sometimes I am lazy in the evening Adhd I’m lazy sometimes I am lazy I don’t have the time and I’m exhausted so I can’t be bothered. / I don’t care about it N/a Time As sensitive skin cannot try knew products I don’t get spots and therefore don’t feel the need to Sometimes I don’t because I forget or can’t be bothered n/a too tired, forgot I am lazy and ignorant.

Yes I hope so No No, I am not. Yes Yes but Iam still looking for alternatives yes Combined skin, prefer Avene products Nope oily skin Somewhat No and the product I use is not fixed No Yed I think so Dry, glycolic acid for extra smoothness Not really mixed skin, sometimes dry skin no Yes. I am unsure of my skin type I would say I am somewhat aware YESSSSS Combination skinn I am aware of my skin type but I find it difficult to find a product that fully helps all year round for my skin, my I have dry skin, spot prone skin and Dermalogica and Kate Somerville have worked best. skin is very dry and some products only help during the summer Somewhat Kind of No have both oily and dry Yes. (Dry and sensitive skin). I have dry, sensitive skin and use products recommended by my esthetician Yes - oil/combination tend to use very light moisturisers and products that help maintains oils at a nice even Yes normal oily combo balance. NO Some what but i feel my skin changing i think i have combination skin mostly greasy, but I’m not sure what works best Yes normal skin sometimes I have a oily forehead; I love pharmacy products such as LRP and Vichy I didn’t know there were skin types, but I know which products work for me I think I have oily skin None Yes somehow More or less, but not super educated on it very dry Not really. I know that my skin is dry, but that’s all. I try to use products that claim to be moisturizing, or are meant for “very dry” skin. dry skin combination skin i use the product my dermatologist recommended I believe so I have very very dry skin, but not actually sure what ingredients are best, I just know what products/brands have worked in the past so I stick to them It’s combination but I use whatever is on offer oily in the T zone and a bit dry in other areas during winter Yeah.. Oily and prone to acne :( not really I believe so, it’s a struggle to find a good moisturizer though Dry Combination, any product tend to work just fine No completely Áno Oily, acne-prone skin type and I use the Ordinary brand, that has proven to be most effective and best budget option for me yes I finally know what works for my skin Not very sure Eczema baby lotions are best not yet Combination and mostly as I worked as a beauty advisor and worked alongside skin brands my skin is combination - it can get dry but also oily. More or less

Real models with skincare issues Lack of non-idealized models Neviem Authenticity Unedited photos Inclusivity Diversity and real conditions Embracing ugly imperfections. Some skin inperfections are becoming embraced but others are still considered taboo Actually having models with skin problems (acne, rosacea, dark circles) promoting the products to show they actually work for these conditions. As brands just focus on models who already have perfectly flawless skin Rosacea Very dry skin, but that’s just because I have one, so I have noticed this. Skin is always so clear. Doesn’t show realistic imperfections being naturally you have to use it regularly over a long time It lacks the proper information about the skin. Like people with this certain type of skin should use this product or something like that More in-depth detail about different skin blemishes and how to help them- most marketing is targeted towards spot control People with skin which actually needs clearing up I do not fully understand the question as it is meant honesty Not sure Everyone has beautiful skin doesn’t matter for who is product actual people suffering with conditions eg. excema They should show real persons with real skin problems (before and after using the product); they only show models with (nearly) perfect skin at the beginning and after using the product A lot of brands do not cater for different skin types (i.e. race, dry, sensitive, rashes etc.) Realistic results and products targeted at different types of skin The actual skin conditions. You only see models with prefect skin in commercials for skincare products. It would be nice to see a girl with an actual zit in spot treatment commercial, for example. Also, it would be nice if the beauty brands stopped acting like bad skin is the end of the world. Maybe a more natural approach of “hey, it’s okay you have eczema. Thousands of people do. Try our product, it has these and these ingredients, which have shown effective to battle your problem” instead of “OH NO, you have one freaking pimple? That’s a disaster, you have to buy our product because only then you can really be glowing, natural, beautiful goddess that no man can resist”... They either go from clear skin to extreme acne. They never seem to show people who get spots but not ones that cover the whole face. There seems to be no in between. Real results! Because nothing fills the fine lines except botox! More diversity (skin types, skin colors, face types, and so on) the representation of what is percieved as skin “imperfections” but ones that aren’t considered “cute” such as akne or birthmarks Diversity - people without perfect skin Representative of normal people teenagers edpeciallyb That having skin conditions is okay and it doesn’t need to be perfect Health and environmental factors more than just aesthetics Scar coverups Admitting that they are selling to an ideal they set themselves

Realistic portrayal of skin, pores!! Especially make up never looks like it does in ads Wrinkles, visible pores, imperfections I don’t know. I would have said user reviews, but you can easily get that online. Maybe it’s lacking in the marketing since you have to search for it. Fake looking faces in commercials where ppl have tons of make up on representation of real issues and realistic results Nerozumiem otázke Honesty. Severe examples. Everyday people (not celebs) people without make up but are made to look like they have no make up on They often use people with good skin to begin with and compare to an “after” image which is pretty much the same. The concept of why we are taking care of our skin. At the end of the day it’s a choice like make up and we do it not to fit in the society standard, but more like a self care that you choose to do for yourself. Many beauty brands portrays problematic skin as something that’s unacceptable and has to be fixed, in my opinion it shouldn’t be like that. Separating products by skin types NA Accurate/ realistic before and after comparisons, and unedited photos Scaring Marketing mostly focuses either on fighting acne or anti-aging, but doesn’t address people with combination skin Skin imperfections and large pores! Reality the people that use the products online and in adverts don’t seem to actually have bad skin, possible side effects should be explained like if it won’t work on a certain type of skin or if your skin will get worse if you stop using, how often you should use etc No idea The truth and transparency Products for freckled skin Naturality The tester are people with beautiful skin Real people, not retouched pictures, severe and less severe skin issues, like severe eczema. I’d say they use models who already have clear skin more real women who arent edited or in perfect conditions. Not much natural beauty Everything that is real from scarring to discoloration, acne, bumps, broken veins etc Diversity Acceptance that spots are natural. Acceptance that stretch marks are natural. They never show average faces in commercials diversity Unsure. I don’t see many adverts but most times it shows the skin looking flawless and glowing when this is not the case. Nothing in particular They tend to show everything perfect, they have created the ideal skin type and they try to convince us that this is normal, this is something that everybody should have and it is possible to reach for everybody. But I believe it’s not. And this is the way how they very often make us feel very unconfident because we are not reaching their Ideal. They should calm us that is normal to have a skin with some problems, no one has an ideal skin, even if it looks like. Authenticity. i think its sincerity? most of the time it comes off as if the problem lies in the consumer. I know brands are suppose to present themselves in a way that they are the solution to the problem but in a way it’s a bit toxic given how rampant society’s unrealistic standards in women are already. I dont know but its something I observed when I compare beauty ads to some ads Dove has.

i think its sincerity? most of the time it comes off as if the problem lies in the consumer. I know brands are suppose to present themselves in a way that they are the solution to the problem but in a way it’s a bit toxic given how rampant society’s unrealistic standards in women are already. I dont know but its something I observed when I compare beauty ads to some ads Dove has. Different skin tones Realistic imagery the before and after images that aren’t completely fake We don’t always have to have perfect skin, it is not the be all and end all. We should focus on less egotistical qualities No representation of imperfections I believe their should be more representation of different types of skin types not just models with perfect skin. no true voices. You tend to see a person using a spot cream for example with one spot rather than on someone who has acne Body hair, beauty spots, real imperfections, wider range of skin tones More natural faces don’t know Vertigo, eczema, allergies and embracing normal skin conditions Confidence in the average male or female they do not show the real condition of the skin Darker skinned men and women Real examples nothing. The advertisements aren’t very realistic Realistic results of treatments A diversified range of skin types not just the usual oily, combination, dry e The portrayal of different skin colors and skin textures based on different features, now all the branding is targeting white women Recycling bottles- reward system for bringing old bottles back The obvious imperfections like texture, skin conditions like acne, rosacea. GOOD INGREDIENTS I have seen some improvements with skincare marketing, such as increased inclusion of different skin colours/body types, but there is still a long way to go. Some brands definitely put pressure on young women in particular, and they present the ‘societal’ standard of beauty as something to aspire to, which is very unhealthy. It is good to encourage people to look after their skin, but it is not good to make people feel like their worth/attractiveness is based on their skin/appearance, and that’s hat some companies need to stop doing with skincare marketing I don’t know People with bad or even normal skin. Unrealistic changes, their skin is suddenly air brushed and they’re in the exact same position. Fake and unrealistic. Price Not necessarily lacking but it’s always a “before I was miserable and ugly but now with x product, I’m pretty.” honesty No Men are probably underrepresented but is something less men value and wouldn’t benefit them Not enough solutions, focus on cover-ups _ no The marketing always shows clear skin even on products aimed at oily and blemish prone skin when in fact that’s not how the consumers skin looks when shopping for that kind of targeting product.

If it affects your confidence that much go to a doctor to see if medication will work as it did for me. Also know that most people experience at least one spot in their lives so they probably aren’t looking at you as much as you think. See a dermatologist 1. Stress is often a reason for skin problems so first advice is self-care; 2. let your skin breathe by not putting on make up every day; 3. consult with a doctor majority of people have skin problems too and whatever it’s portrayed on social media etc. is not an accurate portrait of what the population looks like. everyone has their unique features and it should be celebrated. beauty comes in all different forms Drink lots of water. Ride it out! It’s okay to have not so perfect skin Dermatologist And aesthetician Speak to a specialist Who cares? Unless it is a medical condition, people are how they are Visit a dermatologist, try not to let it affect you too much It is a journey but you’re ok even if it’s not over yet Realise that you can do your best but it still takes time for the condition to improve. Your skin conditions doesn’t define who you are as a person. You are beautiful the way you are :* If it’s feasible, a dermatologist may be cheaper than buying a bunch of random products that don’t help eczema I’m not sure Že sú atraktívni aj z iného hľadiska, nielen vonkajšom a že je na starostlivosť o pleť potrebný istý čas, aby sa im pleť upravila. Nech sa nevzdávajú. It will pass Try make them feel good in their own skin but do research to help them find treatment Everyone has skin problems, it’s not a big deal to take care of them no body else cares - it is a big thing to you but others wont be thinking about it Byt trpezlivým a vyšetriť sa na všetko I don’t feel qualified to advise given that I’m lucky enough to have naturally pretty good skin Everyone is beautiful and appearance does not define your beauty, The spot on your face doesn’t define who you are, it’s just a part of you. Be comfortable in your own skin. Go See a dermatologist out side and live your life as the real you. Every one is different and we love you. Be confident Firstly consult dermatologist about the problems and treat skin professionally You’re perfect the way you are Go doctors If they aint paying your bills, pay them bitches no mind Don’t let it affect your self confidence too much, try out different products Don’t be afraid to test different products. And don’t always listen to everyone’s opinions, if using products and covering up Give things a while to work but listen to your skin (i.e. burning, tingling) your skin problems makes you feel more confident then do what makes you feel like the best you The health of your skin is more important than its appearance, so don’t use harsh products or layers of cover Medication up that will worsen your skin in the long term. Also, consult a dermatologist and a good esthetician. I don’t have any advice. Life is too short to worry about it To hold tight. It will eventually get better Do not give up, and skin is not everything ask a dermatologist or pharmacist for advice be patient, your skin isn’t gonna change over night with one use of a product, understand other people have visiting a doctor the same skin problems and therefore they’re not judging you or even noticing as much as you think, and if Don’t beat yourself too much about it. Skin is only just a part of you. Work on your inner beauty. We need more of those. you have serious / permanent skin problems perhaps check with a doctor first for good products? Learn to love how you look with or without help, don’t stress too much if a certain product works for someone else and That it will eventually go and it doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy life doesn’t for you See a dermatologist or a beautician to get advice Keep trying different brands to find the one that works for you - doesn’t always have to be the ones advertised Buy good make up look for the most appropriate treatment Eat healthy better food, drink more water, use xy cream The perfection doesn’t exist so you are happy with your imperfections Just try not to let it get you down Keep searching for the cause instead of the symptoms. You are worthy and precious, even though you may First should be seeing doctor who can help a lot not always feel like it. Act with confidence, that alone can make a huge difference in appearance! learn to love your appearance and trial and error for things that work maybe visit a specialist eat healthy, drink a lot of water, don´t do too much with your skin (too much cleaning isn´t good either) just try to take care of it, don’t over do it and be gentle. Own it because it makes you who you are. Embrace your beauty Find the routine that works for you. There’s something out there for everybody but don’t hesitate to consult with an expert I have no idea. At the time of my life when this was happening to me I couldn’t handle it. first. Not let it affect your confidence and how you feel about yourself Probably, that there is millions of people dealing with that exact same problem and it’s okay, it’s natural and it does not mean Remember that looks aren’t everything, but if it’s really bothering you, try out different creams, treatments the person is not beautiful. It is a health problem like any other, just do a lot of research, try different things. A lot of steps and possibly makeup. But we are not defined by our skin x toward clear happy skin are just things you’d do to live a healthy lifestyle, so just think how much you will benefit from all this You’ll be fine later in life.

not to stress about it Embrace it. You are who you are so love yourself Sleep well Be patient, follow the skin routine and if it is necessary, try to be proactive in finding solution, even if it means medical solution I would say, do not take it too personal. Neither will others. i dont really know since i have yet to encounter and my expereicnes cannot speak for most; the only advice i can say if to stay hydrated, wash often, dont religiously put make up and not clean afterwards. Find the good product and eat healthy focus on your inner-self; beauty comes from within There is a solution for everything, at least to control it To see a dermatologist or not to worry Change your diet ans exercise routine, or wait for it to pass. It will take time but try to love your imperfections. I know for a lot of people it is a constant battle to love themselves. It all goes away eventually! Learn to accept it because the more you stress about it the worse you’ll make it See what works for your skin and stick to it, don’t use too many products at once tho. Drink water and don’t touch your face Drink more water Find a skin doctor Embrace it, it’s normal and it makes you unique Your personality is what makes you glow try to go on a proffesional treatment, it helped me It’s only temporary! Patience with medication Find a solution that works for you! Not to worry about what you look like and don’t look too much into social media influencers, as they aren’t a realistic view point To try not to let it define you Seek medical advice before purchasinf any To look for other examples on social media, not the mainstream ones, to find empowerment and tips, and overcome the major dissatisfaction Hydrate, change diet, skin care routine Your skin, you were born with it. Better to embrace it and work around whatever little things you think are imperfections. But do not be overly attentive to false images projected on media, they are just that: false. SEE SPECIALIST Find what works for you to help treat it, and if anyone tries to tell you that skin problems define who you are, tell them to fuck off Seek help Talk to another person who is knowledgeable about skin problems. Try talking to doctors(not only the one you regularly visit) if there is a way to help. If not, to hell, rock it! It is the thing that makes you original, your own self Look for products that calms the skin and drink water Eat healthy and maintain good skincare routine For just regular acne and routine skin problems find a highly recommended cheap face wash and use it and says remember to change your sheets! Accept them, but try to cure them! No Wait it out, wash face regularly Seek professional help from a dermatologist _ take it easy get on with it and be confident in who you are

Dark Circles under eyes I have a very unorganized and hard beard that causes problems on a weekly basis Chcela by som zmeniť vzhľad mojej pokožky na taký aký som mala pred dvoma rokmi. Bez pupakov a akné. Change redness my skin get either from doing exercise or in hot conditions, it immediately shows on my face most times I would erase the dark circles under my eyes Improve my skin clearer Scarring No acne and stop going randomly bright red I have Rosacea, so I would try and reduce the sensitivity and redness of my cheeks Yes my blemishes and pinkness as unattractive Make it appear more radiant and glowy, and less dry. Yes. I’d have comepletely clear skin! a little bit darker skin, my skin is really pale no Maybe remove my blackheads permanently. I would change my pores because they are quite large even with trying numerous products and I feel like it makes my skin look dirty clearer yes she changed ... i have problems with exem on my face yes My spots No yes - spots/excema/wrinkes - to make me more stereotypically ‘beautiful’ I want clearer skin and a smaller face and a tiny nose Yes. I have psoriasis on my knee after a fall in the playground when I was younger and have never been able to wear dresses, skirts or bikinis without tights or bandages as I am extremely self conscious about it Yes, if I can afford it I’d have regular visits to the dermatologist to maintain and improve my skin Yes. I can’t deal with the acne anymore. Although I’m a lot more comfortable in my skin and most of the time I don’t mind going out without make up, it is frustrating that I cannot get rid of it. Especially when I do 110% to take care of it, while my friends don’t even wash their face and their skin is flawless. I would give myself perfect clear skin as it would make me feel better about myself. KP on the arms Never get any wrinkles i’d like for my skin to stop breaking out I would love my pores to be smaller and my skin to be less red I have hidradenitis supperativa so I’d change that. The redness because it makes me self conscious Change the bags on eyes and some fine lines My drooping eye lids from the aging proccess My face is my face - if it looked differently, it wouldn’t be my face anymore Get rid of the hormonal acne please More stable/less blemishes If I could, I would erase my acne and scars. Not dry Yes, I would clear up my acne scarring and large pores Milie, znamienka Skin tags, media portrays these as bad (kardashians get them removed) and achne scars as they make me self conscious have less dark circles under my eyes Remove some moles I used to what to have the perfect skin but now I just like taking care of it as a self care and not aiming to look like someone’s perfect skin but just the better version of myself. Yes, I would want to have smaller and cleaner pores and to make my skin more matte Yes Change the uneven colour e.g dark circles under eyes

Remove dryness, it can make foundation application difficult I would heal the dermatitis around my mouth and flakiness on my scalp. It can be itchy and painful. Pore size and breakouts I would use spf soo much earlier than my 30s i’d like to visit somewhere to specifically help with blackheads / use a suction machine thingy to get rid of them? Bumps and imperfections but doesn’t really bother me Nothing Reduce number of freckles because I hate them especially in summer when they are stronger Yes. Dark undereye circles No Little smaller pores, but nothing serious I’d rathwr not have acne, I feel much less confident if I know there is a big pinple on my face It would be smoother, less blotchy. Yeah I’d love a smaller nose and bigger top lip. Bigger eyes. Longer eye lashes. Bigger eyebrows. Smaller ears. Smaller forehead. Stronger jaw line. Less freckles. Not at the moment Acne scars I would change my droopy eyelid, my chubby cheeks, my stretch marks, the asymmetricness of my face and my birthmark (red v on my forehead). Because I feel like they stand out and I feel ugly because of them get rid of my moustache No, happy the way it is Nothing No Of course would be better to have no acne at all, and to have bright and radiant skin with unique And uniform texture No, I would not change anything. I like my skin imperfections, they make me unique. Facuial features? A lot but my teeth and nose are the ones I really would like to artificially improve. I would like a smooth skin in my face too, i dont like how the textures are bumpy. No facial skin due to blemishes the shape of my lips without cosmetic surgery. No My dry under eyes. The only thing I change is the amount of hair that grows on my face an how fast. I believe social media makes you believe that you need these perfect jawlines and puckered lips. I would , I would get rid of the redness the spots have caused. The redness makes my spots more noticeable Would want my complexion to match all over Reduce wrinkles a bit delete mywrinkles :D My nose, make it slimmer, and bigger lips No, I’m happy with what I look like and I’m healthy no No No No. redness I would change the number of spots and freckles I have as well as my skin tone Probably make my skin more glowing No Probably take better care by getting facials regularly I would change nothing. I WOULD LOVE TO MAKE IT BIT MORE OILY... IT NEEDS SO MUCH MOISTURE!!!!!!!! I want my beard to grow in a specific area of my chin that it currently doesn’t grow in

I would like my skin smoother and without red dots. Yes, I would get rid of the blackheads on my nose. I used to be annoyed by the tens of birthmarks I have all around my upper body, but later realized it is what makes my body mine(cliche, but true). And used to have acne all year round, which was helped with by the THIRD doctor I visited. Smoother complexion No Not really, I’ve managed the acne pretty well but I do have the occasional blackhead pop up which annoy me because they can be harder to get rid of. no No Tired eyes Have less wrinkles _ no, I am satisfied with current situation No

Blemishes and wrinkles Acne, acne scars The redness on my cheeks Psoriasis mild acne eczema Wrinkles and blemishes Rosacea Eczema Akne a vyrážky Acne prone skin not smooth Cirurisis Hormonal acne pale and dry skin (really stressed and less sleep) Scarring Blemishes and spots Spots I have spots. Acne scarring and redness Acne and going bright red sensitive Hidradenitis supperativa spots Wrinkles too dry too many pimples?

Appendix 1D Online Questionnaire Part 2 Results

Rosacea Acne Pores/dry skin Former eczema marks on my skin and acne Redness, scarring and blemishes Blackheads around the nose part KP on the arms Dry skin and scars scars, dry skin, wrinkles break outs Acne

The need to be perfect has become an epidemic now The need for perfection Because political economy of the beauty sector has the incentive to generate anxiety to sell more products Openness to talk about it and not feeling embarassed Skin care product Advertisements That it might be contagious Not having enough representation, and not seeing how “the perfect skin” in ads/media looks before retouching and all the make up. the ideal of youthfulness which is seen in soft and clean skin the fact that having any “abnormalities” is still viewed as something to be hidden, which heavily supported by media in general Ignorance Unrealistic beauty standards Limited portrayal of imperfections and perpetual youth in ads The pressure to be perfect The idea of perfect beauty and its portrayal in media. As a society, we are consumer-orientated, pointing out flaws is a way to get people to buy products to remove it. It’s the same with weight, skin color, economicstatus.... I hope it get normalised People have sexualised smooth skin so as soon as they see a skin condition they automatically think “oh no this person is diseased”. Feeling not good enough I do not know answer Obsession with youth and perfection We are still fixated on beauty being flawless untouched perfected skin, when in reality this is hard to come by Bc ppl stare at it and commercials don’t show realistic faces Because advertising tells us we need to look perfect Neviem Because beauty standards what are in our heads social media Everyone is too embarrased to show their real skin without makeup Not how they used to be The notion that skin conditions are a result of poor hygiene advertisement and social media The thought that we need to be perfect all the time Social media pressure and bullying I don’t feel like they are The media including social but also how people are portrayed in tv or news. Tv shows for example always have beautiful people who seem to have no physical insecurities or problems. It is not actually thought of as ‘common’ to have problem skin and uneducated people believe those who have issues are either lazy, dirty or unhealthy. The fact that people are not shown in films, tv, adverts or social media with acne and shown as beautiful Not enough awareness Beauty standard frequent use of photoshopping to remove problems Social media but I can see a change towards a display of more diversity i don´t know the ads with beautiful models and the picture of the “perfect skin” which women should have

Focus on accepting our flaws as perfections aswell Brands putting less focus on perfect people and Crete awareness Local communities should be improved and education should include the importance of self-acceptance as who we are More natural beauty even with concerns Lessen the need to meet the standards set by those advertisements. It unrealistic and gives unnecessary concerns. Spreading awareness and more information Show more different types of skin conditions fix the world? hiring models/actors/celebrities etc. regardless of their looks and avoiding trying to change their appearance to fit the “standard” Through education Real-life examples Widen range of age and skin types, lessen use of photo editing Showing the truth Representing real life in media. I mean, I also don’t think people shouldn’t be able to post their edited photos or that movies necessarily need to always cast actors with “imperfections”. But it would be nice to get a dialogue going. Especially with skin problems. To get people to understand that it is not a matter of beauty, it is a health condition that is completely common and normal and instead of covering it with concealers or whatever, let’s find out a root cause and how it can be handled. I hate when doctors put young young girls like 15 year olds, that aren’t even sexually active on birth control, just because they have acne or something. It is an unhealthy way of covering up hormonal imbalances, that for girls this young are still completely normal. People to embrace it more on social media etc and that everyone experiences it More awareness through media not sure I do not know answer More people going natural By promoting more uniqueness in skin conditions, to make everyone feel included in skin care adverts Normalize it By telling people it’s normal Neviem To change how we look at ourselves and learn it from childhood that social media are fake. be more confident Not too sure More honesty in advertising More realistic portrayal of skin in media being more natural More diversity Normalise skin comdiitons N/A Media in general can show warmth to all people no matter what they look like. More education and portrayal of people with skin issues in the media! By showing it more as beautiful, or as something that you sometimes can do nothing about More awareness More releastic and representative media and more informational media about various skin conditions remove photoshopping apps More diversity and build of new role models ? show more natural women in ads; public persons should show their skin without make-up

Appendix 2A Focus Group 1 Transcript Participant 1- Patrik Lux, Age 30 Participant 2- Lucia Ramačová, Age 22 Participant 3- Eva Grigelova, Age 29 Participant 4- Marina Ruzin, Age 32 Interviewer : Hello everyone, thank you for coming today. I really appreciate that you decided to be part of my focus group today. My name is Nely, I am undertaking a research into millennials relationship to their skin and what are the overall attitudes and behaviours when it comes to skin and physical appearance. Today, I will be asking you questions around your expectations and needs when it comes to skincare, your perceptions of the current skincare and beauty industry as well as the current portrayal of skin in the media. Also, at the end I am will show you some images of skincare and beauty campaigns and advertisements. I will record and transcribe everything to English later. Don’t worry about anything you say as your name or your identity will not be disclosed, even if you agreed that you don’t mind me using your name in the consent form. Is that okay with everyone? All: Sounds of agreement Interviewer: Okay, lovely. So, let´s start with the first question Interviewer : How important to you is the way you look? Participant 1: Not very important because I am generally satisfied with myself, this applies to face also, I don’t care because I’m lazy Participant 2: I would say I am about five because I don’t care what people think of me but when I am with my boyfriend, I want to look nine out of ten Participant 3: To me a lot, when it comes to face and my body. Participant 4: I would divide it into two things. 1. Face and 2. Clothing. For me, clothing is not so important, it is essential that I feel comfortable. As for the face, I thought it was pointless for me before, but when I started having skin problems with acne about a year and a half ago, I realised it is very important to me how I look because it started to affect my confidence. I.e I used to not wear makeup when going to the store for example, but now I have to put on makeup to make myself feel better because I feel like people are staring at me, even if it is not necessarily true but you feel like they do and that is making you feel so vulnerable at the moment you so I just quickly wanna leave. Interview: Why do you feel like you can’t go out without makeup ? Participant 4: I think it’s because of how human society has set up these ideals of beauty. For example in Ukraine, since I come from there, women always have to be put together, wear makeup, look presentable, Ukrainian women wouldn’t go to the shop without wearing heels. And to men, it is typical that they care more about by having this masculine strength. The men whom I know from Ukraine, do not dwell too much on the appearance they use minimal skin products compared to women there. Interview: So, you think that men here, take more care of themselves? Participant 4: Yes, that’s how I feel yes. Interview: Would you say there is a certain pressure from contemporary media in terms of how you should look like? Participant 2: Yes Interviewer: And which media specifically? Participant 2 Participant 2: Social media, Instagram hundred percent. Participant 3: I feel like the media are always trying to tempt you with brands and products and feel like you have to try everything because there is this hype around it and then you suddenly become interested in it even if you don’t need it. It is same as you would accumulate clothes due to trends and I think it is the same case with cosmetics that everything it is jumping up on you from all sides. You need to try out this product, and this product is better for you than the other etc… I see this as a common pressure from western media because this skin ideal of western cultures has always been the same. You need to have a perfect, flawless, glowy skin without wrinkles and spots. Interviewer: Okay, Participant 1, what do you think? Participant 1: I think that this is also being done by the media but at the same time, besides the media, this depends on the cultural aspects of the country. For example, in Iran there is a huge pressure on women to wear makeup even if they cover themselves with a scarf, therefore culturally it’s the standard that women or men have to look good. Or for instance, in the majority of Asian countries, the fairer your skin is the more beautiful you are because it is their cultural norm. Participant 4: Yes, I agree with what has been said. I think it depends on the culture and its society and brand are taking advantage of it and using it for the profit. Interviewer: Do you think this is being embraced by the beauty and skincare industries more negatively or positively?

Participant 1: I think brands adapt to people’s needs. It used to be that only high-end cosmetic brands were perceived as a quality product because of their heritage but it has changed now as the consumer thinking has shifted because they want natural products, so they are probably being more environmentally aware. Also, even if these big brands use ‘perfect’ people within their ads this doesn’t mean they purposefully create a pressure on how you should look. Interview: Do you have a skincare routine? Participant 4: I remove my makeup every night, before going to bed, then cleanse I use Foreo, a toner, a moisturiser, I use different for the day and night, an eye cream and a face mask 2-3 times a week Participant 3: I always cleanse morning and night and cream, I used not care at all about how my skin looks products but I have changed my approach to this, I have started having a regular skincare routine, I am seeing a big difference in my skin. Participant 2: I use Bioderma to remove makeup, then a simple moisturiser and I have started using an anti-aging eye cream and a face mask once while. (laughs) Silly, I know! Participant 1: I do have a winter skincare routine, I use Neutrogena body lotion after showering because my skin tends to be more red and dry in winter,I also use an eyelid moisturiser because I sometimes have a rash on my eyelids Interview: That´s interesting! Where do you buy this eyelid moisturiser? Participant 1: You can only get it with a prescription from the pharmacy Interview : Are you currently aware of your skin type and what products work best for you? Participant 4: I didn’t use to but now I do know that I have acne-prone and problematic skin, so I try to buy a natural-based, clean and local products also because I am currently breastfeeding. Participant 2: Yes, I do, my skin loves everything that is hydrating , I have a very dry skin especially now this time in winter. Participant 3: No, not really. If I had a better knowledge of the skincare trends and the industry in general, then I would know exactly what my skin needs. In my case I only try to resolve a problem when I am having one spot once a while. I would like to know more about it so I can find the right skincare products for me, but I always feel so lost cause there is so much information out there, so many brands and products. Participant 1: No, I am not aware. But I am pretty sure it is not dry All: (LAUGHS) Do you think that skin is a reflection of what is going on in the inside? Participant 3: You mean as if our skin mirrors our mental wellbeing? Interviewer: Yes and vice versa Participant 1: To me, I personally don’t think there is correlation between my mental wellbeing and the state of how my skin looks like. I think my skin is more of reflection of my lifestyle and external influences, however I do not deny it, but I don’t have a personal experience with it. Participant 3: I think, it is a reflection but it has got to do more with some external things…speaking from my experience, sometimes when I am feeling sad or depressed, then as a result I eat sweets more than I usually do and as so the side effect is that it my skin is redder and spottier. Therefore, I imagine there is some sort of indirect mental correlation but it is very individual but there is definitely a connection. Participant 4: I believe that skin mirrors your health condition, which means that there can be a unknow health problem, in my case it might be a sign of gluten intolerance. But as it has been said, it can also be a reflection of your mental and physical wellbeing. Participant 2: I haven’t really thought about this like that, but I am sure there is some sort of hidden connection and that’s why it’s really important to take care of your mental health and you wellbeing in general Interviewer: What is your knowledge of skin conditions? Participant 1: I have a very high level of knowledge of skin problems, because two years ago I used to have a very bad skin problems that came out of nowhere and it took me a year to treat it and resolve the problem. Participant 3: No not really. I used to have an atopic eczema back in a day, but I have never been to a dermatologist. Marina: Very little, but since I have experienced acne as a result of my pregnancy, I am getting more and more interested in this. However, I believe that people who do have a skin condition it can have an enormous impact on their quality of life as well as their mental health, especially if it’s something very visible and on a face. Mainly children experience it the most because they get laughed at school or even get bullied.

Participant 1: I agree with Marina. I think it depends on the place and nature of the skin problem, because if the skin problem is painless or not contagious then it does not reduce the quality of life, if it is not a face. However, if it hurts then it does have an impact on the quality of life even if other people cannot see it. Interviewer: Do you think that personalised skin-routine would help you to understand your skin need more? Participant 3: Definitely, I wish someone made that. Participant 2: I would give it a chance Participant 4: I agree Participant 1: Yes Participant 1: No, I am not aware. But I am pretty sure it is not dry All: (LAUGHS) Do you think that skin is a reflection of what is going on in the inside? Participant 3: You mean as if our skin mirrors our mental wellbeing? Interviewer: Yes and vice versa Participant 1: To me, I personally don’t think there is correlation between my mental wellbeing and the state of how my skin looks like. I think my skin is more of reflection of my lifestyle and external influences, however I do not deny it, but I don’t have a personal experience with it. Participant 3: I think, it is a reflection but it has got to do more with some external things…speaking from my experience, sometimes when I am feeling sad or depressed, then as a result I eat sweets more than I usually do and as so the side effect is that it my skin is redder and spottier. Therefore, I imagine there is some sort of indirect mental correlation but it is very individual but there is definitely a connection. Participant 4: I believe that skin mirrors your health condition, which means that there can be a unknow health problem, in my case it might be a sign of gluten intolerance. But as it has been said, it can also be a reflection of your mental and physical wellbeing. Participant 2: I haven’t really thought about this like that, but I am sure there is some sort of hidden connection and that’s why it’s really important to take care of your mental health and you wellbeing in general Interviewer: What is your knowledge of skin conditions? Participant 1: I have a very high level of knowledge of skin problems, because two years ago I used to have a very bad skin problems that came out of nowhere and it took me a year to treat it and resolve the problem. Participant 3: No not really. I used to have an atopic eczema back in a day, but I have never been to a dermatologist. Marina: Very little, but since I have experienced acne as a result of my pregnancy, I am getting more and more interested in this. However, I believe that people who do have a skin condition it can have an enormous impact on their quality of life as well as their mental health, especially if it’s something very visible and on a face. Mainly children experience it the most because they get laughed at school or even get bullied. Participant 1: I agree with Marina. I think it depends on the place and nature of the skin problem, because if the skin problem is painless or not contagious then it does not reduce the quality of life, if it is not a face. However, if it hurts then it does have an impact on the quality of life even if other people cannot see it. Interviewer: Do you think that personalised skin-routine would help you to understand your skin need more? Participant 3: Definitely, I wish someone made that. Participant 2: I would give it a chance Participant 4: I agree Participant 1: Yes Interviewer: What would be your requirements when it comes to this personalised solution? Participant 3: First off, all, I think I would need to have a skin problem that I want to find a solution for. Participant 1: For me, it would be ideal to have one product that can be used minimally and can solve many problems. Participant 4: I would need to be sure that it really helps people, it has got good reviews, it´s natural, won’t be harmful to my skin and its ethically made Participant 2: I think it should be available for a reasonable price but obviously it would depend on what is included within. Interviewer: What are your thoughts on showing natural skin on social media, would you say it comes often as shocking/daring?

Participant 3: I wish, it would have been perceived as normal and we as a society wouldn’t need to ask ourselves these questions whether or not it’s shocking. I think it should be a standard for women to go makeup-free show their skin with all the imperfections you can think off. Unfortunately, in today’s day and age people get a little surprised because they are not used to it and they are not used to it because the beauty companies do not reflect this realism within their marketing. Participant 1: To me it is absolutely fine and I don’t understand why it should be considered shocking I have seen various number women without makeup before and I am not a fan of this heavy makeup trend I prefer a more subtle makeup. Participant 2: I think it depends, someone who posted a picture with a really visible skin problem and got a lot of good comments will be then encouraged to post more pictures like that, but I believe there are two types of people, those who do it just for the likes and those who do it because they actually want to help others or just make them feel good Interviewer: What about skincare and beauty brands, are they embracing this skin realism? Participant 1: They do support this a little bit, nowadays because of the all-natural beauty trend, but it still can be done better with less consumerism involved Participant 3: No, I don’t think so, because so many skincare ads use mainly a woman who has no skin concern for a product that is specially made for someone who clearly does have some. Participant 2: They are trying, but sometimes it doesn’t look authentic….so I believe even if they want to it is still hard for them to break the boundaries Interviewer: Do you see this as a common stereotype within the skincare industry? Participant 3: Yeah for sure. I wish they used a woman or a man who really has acne into their ads for acne for example. They should use people who actually suffer from acne. Mainstream brands use perfect people who have zero skin problems whatsoever so it is really hard to believe for me as a consumer that the product promoted can work. Interviewer: Okay, Marina what do you think of Evka just said? Participant 4: I think they should use a real-life people but on the other hand if these brands used only real people, no one would have bought into their products. Participant 3: This might be true, but they can just use a celebrity with acne just show it on the camera without any retouch or makeup, just neutral skin. People would trust this company more than someone unknown to them. I refuse to believe that nowadays all these people who are considered famous have zero skin problems. Interviewer: What is your opinion on filters? Participant 4: I am not very fond of social media anyway, but you know the one on Samsung camera where you can choose how younger you wanna look? Participant 3: Yes! I find it so unnatural and weird; it is so obvious that you used it because it literally airbrushes your face Participant 1: I don’t like filters I don’t even take pictures of myself. Participant 3 : I mean, if you use a filter in your photo but it still can look realistic, natural, just slightly different not over the top or vulgar then think its okay. Participant 2: I do sometimes use filters, I wouldn’t post a picture without makeup because I don’t feel comfortable about it and I wouldn’t post anything where I am not feeling good. Interviewer: Is it because you are afraid what other people would say? Participant 2: I mean yes, bur primarily if I don’t see myself as pretty that day, I am gonna use a filter Interviewer: Okay, now I will show you few images of beauty and skincare ads. If you could please rate how realistic this image is from 1-5, one being the least and 5 being the most realistic and please justify your opinion. Interviewer:

Participant 1: I give it a five, I think it’s really realistic. It’s nice picture obviously taken by a professional photographer. Participant 3: Three Participant 4: Two Participant 2: Three, I like the diversity in this photo, this is Kylie´s brand right? Interviewer: Yes Participant 2: Well, then I guess that’s why it looks so good Interviewer: Next image is an ad by Proactive. What is your thought of this ad?

Participant 3: Well, I cant see that this lady suffers from any acne or that she used to have an acne before, she seems like she doesn’t even know why is she in this ad. Participant 2: Zero realism in this ad, I don’t like it Participant 4: A typical, ‘’western like style of anti-acne ad, perfection, happiness, a white women with a big smile on her face.” Participant 1: I agree with others Interviewever: What about this one?

Participant 3: Again, lady who seems like she is very happy about herself, no skin problems, why did they even use her in this ad? She looks like she has never had adult acne in her life nor teenage acne ever Participant 4: 1. They at least could have showed before and after. Participant 1: I know right! This seems more like some soft of typical anti-aging ad. Participant 2: Again, it doesn’t look very realistic to me Interviewer: If you saw this image in beauty or skincare ad, would you be more inclined to buy the product or not?

Participant 3: Now we´re talking! No not at all, because people can relate it more when they see it. This is how skincare ads should look like. five Participant 1: No, it wouldn’t put me off as a consumer. So realistic, five Participant 4: No five, I love it I have never seen an ad like this before. Participant 2 : I love it! I think its authentic a great example of a true self-expression, it highlights how normal it is to show your skin and that you don’t need to cover it with makeup. Plus, I think it would be amazing for a skincare brands to do more of these. I would like it even more if this was a video ad where girls would talk about their skin because I have never seen an ad like that before. Interviewer: Do you have any self-care routine’s or traditions you stick to ? Participant 1: Running, socialising with my friends Participant 4: A nice bath and glass of prosecco, I like running and doing my skincare routine every morning and night Participant 3: Doing sports Participant 2: I love a good pamper day, for example getting my nails done or lashes done it helps me to boosts my confidence Interviewer: Is skincare a physical way of self-care in your opinion? Participant 3: Sure, it can be, some people are doing it because they enjoy the process of putting your serums or a face mask Participant 4: Definitely, for me yes. Participant 1: I don’t have one so I can’t really say (laughs) Participant 2: Yeah, totally Interview: Okay, I think we got it, that’s all, thank you again so much for meeting me today.

Appendix 2B Focus Group 2 Transcript Participant 5- Simon Sako, Age 23 Participant 6- Lukáš Medviď, Age 21 Participant 7- Barbora Šiorká, Age 21 Participant 8- Tomáš Straka, Age 22 Participant 9- Gabriela Poláková, Age 20 Interviewer : Hello everyone, thank you for coming today. I really appreciate that you decided to be part of my focus group today. My name is Nely, I am undertaking a research into millennials relationship to their skin and what are the overall attitudes and behaviours when it comes to skin and physical appearance. Today, I will be asking you questions around your expectations and needs when it comes to skincare, your perceptions of the current skincare and beauty industry as well as the current portrayal of skin in the media. Also, at the end I am will show you some images of skincare and beauty campaigns and advertisements. I will record and transcribe everything to English later. Is that clear to everyone? Participant 5: Yes Participant 6: Yes Participant 7: Yup Participant 8: Sure Participant 9: Yes it is Interviewer: How important to you is the way you look? Participant 5: From zero to ten I give it six and a half Participant 6: For me its somewhere in the middle I would say seven out of ten Participant 7: Eight for me Participant 8: three out of ten Participant 9: Six or seven. Interviewer: Would you say there is a certain pressure from media in terms how our skin should look like? Participant 5: Yes, I strongly agree with this. There is so much pressure especially on girls and not only from media, but this is coming from our society in general, people are way more judgmental these days. Participant 6: I am not sure, I would say now they are trying to push this idea of being comfortable with yourself, by promoting more diversity than before. Participant 7: I feel a big pressure on how a person should look like. Participant 8: Well, what came to my mind right now is Kanye´s campaign that focused on diversity and body positivity which is a good thing for sure but when you looked at their face, you could tell everyone had a makeup on their face and I think it must have been Photoshoped too. Participant 9: I think it varies because there is way more diversity promoted on social media, people of all races, skin colour or those who have skin problems are becoming way more visible and accepted thanks to the social media platforms. Interviewer: Are you currently aware of your skin type and what products work best for you? Participant 5 : I am not really into it at all, I don’t buy any cosmetics Interview: Why is that? Do you feel like men do not need to care of themselves? Participant 5 : I subjectively do not care though, because at the moment I am not experiencing any skin problems, I do have dry skin but I don’t even moisturise it most of the time. Participant 7: No, I am not, I usually buy a very random products for my skin Participant 6: Yes, I do Participant 8: Same here, I have a dry skin but as boys usually do, I prefer all-in-one products cause I am lazy (laughs) Participant 9: No, I honestly don’t know, My skin is somewhere between dry and combination so I don’t know what products are the best

Interviewer: Would you say that skincare brands are currently meeting your skin needs and expectations of shopping experience? Participant 7: That’s a tough one, most of the products I have bought didn’t do anything or it just wasn’t right for my skin but that’s maybe because I haven’t tried to consult this with any specialists or do a deeper research. Participant 8: Yes, I have been loyal to Nivea brand for a years and I have never tried to buy anything else Participant 9: Well, I have recently started reading about the natural and organic skincare brands but unfortunately I can’t really afford it right know although I have done the research and I know these products are available but as I said I cant really afford it. Participant 5: I don’t know, I don’t really buy skincare Participant 6: Same as Simi Interviewer: What is your knowledge of skin conditions? Participant 7: I personally know people who have psoriasis, but I am not really aware of their experience with it. But I think some of them are okay with it and some prefer to stay in the shadows because they are not confident enough or feel like they are not pretty enough Participant 9: I have friend and she has rosacea and she used to cover it with makeup every day for about 2 years straight but now she stopped because she feels more comfortable and confident with herself Participant 8: I suffer from seborrhoea, not many people know about it, I get flaking in my hair, on my face and my face is also dry and sometimes red around my nose and cheeks. Participant 6: I don’t know much about it but I do feel that these people are going through a lot of pressure and are often judged by society especially if it’s something highly visible on the face Interviewer: What do you think of Participant’s 6 opinion ? Participant 5: I must agree, I think people who have these permanent skin problems feel uncomfortable and insecure about themselves. But I do know a girl who has alopecia which is a term for hair loss. She used to wear wigs till she was around 16 and then she completely stopped because she feels like “this is me” I don’t wanna hide it anymore, but from what she told me, she was fired from work because they said its inappropriate to not cover it at work. Interviewer: Can this be improved in any way? Participant 6: I think it’s a problem within the society, these people shouldn’t feel less valued than other people just because they have imperfections or do not look like other people, it doesn’t mean they are ugly in any way, our society needs to be more accepting of these individuals. Participant 8: I think they should be more integrated into media because they are normal people who do not have any severe mental issues and are capable of the same things that other healthy people Participant 9: I cannot agree more. I think it’s getting more normalised compared to couple years back, people are starting to be less judgmental of skin problems. There are also few brand that started to include these people within their campaigns, so in my opinion this is going the right direction. Participant 5: I don’t have any opinion on this because I don’t have any problems. Participant 7 : (No answer) Interviewer: What is your opinion on filters? Participant 9: Do you mean like on social media? Interviewer: Yes Participant 6: If I may say, I think Its everyone’s own decision, they want to use filter, let them do it if they believe it makes the photo would look better. Participant 7: I think that now even beauty ideals such as having a flawless clear skin, big eyes and narrow nose have influenced the nature of these face effects and filters on social media. And even these filter trends change all the time, based on what is the current desired beauty ideal. So, yeah, personally, I am not a fan, and I don’t use it. Participant 9: Basically, I agree with Bara, I like these old retro filters on pictures but for example this dog filter its just too much or the one that gives you fake lashes, it’s so unnatural. Participant 8: From the men’s perspective, I think these filters were created essentially for women, based on some common pre-ancient beauty opinions so we would find these women attractive Participant 5: I think women use filters way more than men as we don’t feel like we have to look certain way to be found attractive by somebody compared to girls. Interviewer: What are your thoughts on showing natural skin on social media, would you say it comes often as shocking/daring? Participant 6: To be honest, I don’t think it’s common, but I don’t think it’s anything shocking or wow, I find it natural Participant 5: As I said before, it is way more common for men/boys to show natural skin on social media without filters or retouch than women. Participant 7: I agree with Participant 5 Participant 9: I think that when these so-called Instagram beauty celebrities post literally one natural and makeup free picture, they will get so much praise for it for from people, when it’s something so completely normal. Maybe if more people would start adding more natural and realistic images of themselves it wouldn’t need to be viewed as something radical. I mean, its 89 everyone’s decision, if posting a full makeup picture makes you feel good than sure do it.

Participant 8: No but by adding a more natural and realistic images of yourself would lessen the stereotype. Interviewer: Okay, now I will show you few images of beauty and skincare ads. If you could please rate how realistic this image is from 1-5, one being the least and 5 being the most realistic and please justify your opinion. Interviewer:

Participant 5: One, first impression, this is not a very realistic photo Participant 6: I give it three, I like the selection of the models and the focus on diversity in this photo because its natural but what I don’t like is the way the photo is edited or even photoshopped probably. Participant 7: Yeah, same, its little different than what you usually see in beauty ads, but I must say it looks edited Participant 8: I doesn’t look very authentic to me; I would give it two Participant 9: To me it looks very realistic, you can tell it’s professionally photographed beauty or skincare ad, they used a mixture of women, five Interviewer: Next image is an ad for Proactive a well-known brand for acne-treatment developed by dermatologists. What is your impression of this ad ?

Participant 5: First thing that comes to my mind is that this the blonde lady doesn’t look like she has any acne problems. But on the other hand, it does the job of grabbing consumers attention with the big lettering and product placement. Participant 7: I agree with Participant 5 Participant 9: This seems like a photo after she had acne. I guess the purpose was to make you think, this is how happy you can be by using Proactiv. Participant 8: (No answer) 90 Participant 6: Looks basic to me, a typical skincare ad. I guess the purpose of this ad is when you use Proactiv you will look like this lady

Interviewer: What about this one?

Participant 5: No, it wouldn’t put me off actually I would find this campaign more interesting than photos you have shown before because I can see the skin problem. Plus, if I was affected by this concrete example of a skin issue, I could relate to it on a personal level rather then an image of full-face makeup ad. Participant 6: I personally wouldn’t feel motivated/ persuaded to buy into the brand. Participant 9: What is it promoting? What is it trying to help with ? Interviewer: On the first one she has rosacea and one the second one she has acne Participant 9: I think I would give it a chance Participant 8: No, I wouldn’t feel discouraged, I think so many beauty ads just show a product and how it would give a instant desired result within minutes. If it says something like….this lady had a severe acne but thanks to using our product… and then it shows an image after or a method how to treat it…because obviously you can not get rid of completely within a week. Interviewer: How about this campaign from Blume ?

Participant 5: This is a little better than the previous ones because she is at least touching her face. But, I think its a part of the general skincare marketing when the photo has to be edited to so it would make people buy into the product. Participant 9: Similar to the previous one, they should have shown how the person looked like before and after Participant 8: No, it wouldn’t persuade me in any way to buy this product Interviewer: Would you be put off if you saw these images like this in skincare/beauty advertisement? Participant 5: No, I think its way too much makeup, okay the skin looks natural but that eye makeup isnt necessary. Participant 7: I have to disagree, I like it and I think the eyeshadows make it way more interesting and it looks more natural than the Proactive ad you have shown. Participant 9: This is definetely something else, you can tell this is not some kind of corporate mainstream brand based on the style of the photo so yeah, I would look into it Participant 6: I agree, this seems to me more realistic and the eyeshadow give it a nice touch Participant 8: Yeah I was about to say the same thing Interview: Amazing, I think we got it, that’s all, thank you again so much for meeting me today.

Interview: Right, Participant 7, we will start with you this time Participant 7: It wouldn’t motivate me as an average consumer, but that person who has this skin condition or anything similar to it would be more inclined to do so because he or she would see this ad as authentic and real and not fake.

Appendix 3A Shop Safari Location: Nottingham INTU Victoria Centre (John Lewis, Boots) Date: 7th December 2019

Appendix 3B Shop Safari Location: Tokyo, Kokumin drugstore, Skin Holic, the faceshop Date: 16th November 2019

Appendix 4A In-depth interview with Zuzana Sacha Gender :Female Age: 21 Interviewer- What is your skin condition right now? Interviewee- So right now, I am experiencing a very bad skin problem, I have got acne and oily skin Interviewer- And how it is impacting your life right now? Interviewee- Basically I have to wear more make-up. I am not confident if I don’t wear make-up in the point where I won’t leave my house without it Interviewer- Has this condition impacted your mental health? Interviewee- Yes, because I don’t feel confident as I used to Interviewer- Was it difficult for you to create a skincare routine because of your acne ? Interviewee- Yes, because now we are bombarded with loads of products and you want to try allow it hoping that the product you bought will help you, but at the end you don’t know i fit will actually help you to resolve the problem Interviewer- Do you think there is enough positive representation in our society in terms acne? Interviewee- I think that Instagram is getting more and more people who are not afraid to show their skin, but there is not that many to be honest, there are more people who are not afraid to show their body but when it comes to face people are still reluctant to show their acne Interviewer- In terms of social media like Instagram, do you think it shows more people with idealised face? Interviewee- Yeah, definitely, using filters in pictures doesn’t help, because when I am scrolling my Instagram, I feel like most of the people are just using filter and have perfect face and then it’s just me who has this problem. But the reality is, people have the same problems they use Instagram as a mask Interviewer: How do you feel about people who post their face with acne on social media? Interviewee: It would be great, because for me I would think it’s normal and it’s not only me who has this problem but it is loads of other people around the world who experience the same thing, I would appreciate it more if people showed it Interviewer: Have you received any negative reactions from people towards your acne? Interviewee: Uhm... no because I try to put loads of make-up to hide it but one of my friends asked like: “ Oh my god what happend to your face?“ and that made me feel insecure about myself Interviewer: How do you feel about when acne brands use acne free models in their advertising? Interviewee: I think these brands use famous models because they believe they will make them loads of money, I think they should use actual people who experienced the problem and the product has resolved the problem Interviewer: Have you visited a doctor since you have this problem? Interviewee: Yes, I have got my antibiotics right now Interviewer: What products are you using right now? Interviewee: So, I have got essential oils because I want to try not to use loads of chemicals on my skin, so now I have got a natural products based on these essential oils. I have got a cleanser, a toner, a moisturiser, an eye cream and a spot treatment, so fingers crossed this helps Interviewer: What do you think are the most misconceptions when it comes to acne ? Interviewee: People think you have it because you eat unhealthy, but that’s not true because I try to eat healthy and drink loads of water and I am really careful with what I eat and what I put on my face. Some people who have hormonal problems can’t do anything about but that’s what people don’t see and they think it’s because you don’t take care of your face but at the same time I can have the healthiest lunch at uni and still have a crap face whereas girls around me have a beautiful clear skin and eat junk food. Interviewer: So, there has been a debates around appearance and mental health, do you think there is a link between those two? Interviewee: Yes, because you never know what is going inside someone’s head even if they don’t have acne, people now just hide it behind makeup and filters but deep inside they are not happy. For me I get more spots when I am feeling stressed and because of uni, so yeah there is a connection for sure. Interviewer: Have you had there any positives that come out of your acne?

Interviewee: I kind of I appreciate my skin more right now Interviewer: Did you get more into skincare because of acne? Interviewee: Yes, I have tried but I felt overwhelmed with everyone’s recommendations and opinions on Youtube and Instagram, I felt lost Interviewer: Why do you think we don’t see more brands to include people with acne within their marketing? Interviewee: Because I feel like we are so used to seeing the superficial beauty and skin and we don’t want to see the reality cause we are scared Interviewer: Do you think men have it harder when they experience acne? Interviewee: Sure, it is much harder, because as a girl I can hide but when it comes to boys it must be so much harder for them Interviewer: Do you think a more personalised solution to your skin problem would help to understand it better? Interviewee: Yeah that would be a great help, because as I have said before I am feeling lost and I am never sure which product to use Interviewer: What are the factors that would make you to trust the brand ? Interviewee: Zero waste, not using loads of plastic, natural ingredients cause I don’t want to use chemicals on my skin and the last thing is the reality in adverts, to show real people Interviewer : How much would you be willing to pay for it? Interviewee: Honestly now I feel like with my acne I would pay any money to resolve it, but you have to have this problem to understand that you would take anything to help you especially when it comes to how it impact your mental health it shouldn’t be a matter of money Interviewer: Okay, that’s it! Thank you!

Appendix 4B In-depth interview Mishline Abraham Gender :Female Age: 26 Interviewer: How happy are you with your skin right now? Interviewee: Right now not happy at all. About 4. I have had a problem with spots for quite a while now Interviewer: Do you follow a skincare routine? Interviewee: I do yes, in the morning at night I cleanse, I use a toner and a moisturiser. It really relaxes me and not just for health benefits, it just makes me feel better in the morning and also helps me with my acne prone skin. Interviewer: In your opinion, do you think that social media puts a pressure how our skin should look like? Interviewee: I think no one is pressuring us but there is that pressure that we built within ourselves because of all social media and everything online. I just think is self-inflicted kind of pressure that we put on ourselves like putting makeup at very young age and everyone wants to look flawless, so you want to look the same Interviewer: Do you think that some people are self-conscious to show their natural skin because of it ? Interviewee: Yeah, for sure, Interviewer: In terms of beauty and skincare brands do you think have an authentic image brand image Interviewee: No, I am pretty sure all these models are Photoshopped (points at Garnier banner) and blurred and obviously youngsters look at that and think this is the perfection and want to be like that but its completely normal to have good skin days and bad skin days. Girls have hormones and they get imbalanced and because of that we get acne and that’s fine. Interviewer: Do you think it’s harder for people with skin problems to find a product that will work for them? Interviewee: Yeah, I mean if you have got anything like me, it’s an absolute nightmare, I have got very sensitive skin and anything I put on my face just reacts so yeah it is harder because all of the ingredients irritate my skin and make my acne worse. Interviewer: What would help you to find the product that actually works for you? Interviewee: Ehm… I am not sure I just try to stick to a simple routine Interviewer: Do you think that the way you skin looks affect your mental health? Interviewee: Yeah, sometimes. I used to have a very bad cystic acne and I used to feel really embarrassed and I still do have days like I don’t like leaving my house because of the way my skin looks on that particular day. When I need to go uni I try my best to avoid talking to people so I wouldn’t need to have an eye contact with people because I felt like everyone is staring at me. Interviewer: Do you think a more personalised solution to your skin problem would help to understand it better? Interviewee: Yeah that would really really help me, because it is hard to find a right product for me as I have a very sensitive and Indian skin. So, if there is brand out there that can help 95 people like that it would be amazing

Appendix 4C In depth interview with Estelle Gough (Shopping Assistant at Neom Organic) Gender :Female Age: 23 Interviewer: How do you feel about your skin right now ? Interviewee: I feel like at the moment less is more, because I think that what comes in your body comes out of your body. I always try to eat healthy and drink loads of water. I always get so many compliments on my skin and I use not too expensive organic natural products Interviewer: Do you think that people who have skin problems have a good amount of knowledge and what works for their skin? Interviewee: Well, some of it can be genetic but I also think that for a lot of people when it comes to skin are so desperate to get it fixed that they would do anything, skin is such a big thing. Like, if you have a good skin you can walk out of the house whereas you don’t have good skin you need to spend the extra 20 minutes to sort yourself out. I think that skin is a massive thing for everybody. Interviewer: Why do you think that people are obsessed with having clear skin? Interviewee: I think that face is the first thing you see when you look at someone, is the main point of contact but at the same time the main point of insecurity for someone cause, because face is what everyone sees and remembers you for, so if you have a bad skin that person is gonna thing :”This is what they will remember about me” Which isn’t what people are probably gonna remember. But that´s how the industry works, skincare and beauty products are expensive because people keep buying them it because they have a need to buy them, they are buying into an idea. Interviewer: In your opinion, do you think that social media puts a pressure how our skin should look like? Interviewee: First of all, Facetune is one of the worst thing that could have ever ever happened to the Internet. There is a lot that is hidden, a lot of celebrities in the media will put out a very perfect image but they don’t put a disclaimer out there, this is not what I am actually like and people are constantly trying to be that person without the same income,makeup artist and dermatologist etc.. They are 100% playing on our insecurities and that’s how these high-end brands survive just putting out these idealised images of : “Look how you can look like,” but when you put that product on you never gonna magically turn out to be that person. Interviewee: Do you think that it affects mental health? Interviewee: Yeah 100%, because it is crazy how many people suffer, because we all have access to everybody and we can all see each other’s insecurities, you can be insecure about something in private Interviewer: What do you think can change that? Interviewee: I think that our generation is doing a very good job at like helping people with mental health issues but then I think that we are also one of the most judgemental generations ever and so people when it comes to skin, people on Instagram get absolutely attacked for their skin but also when people post a picture and use hashtag all natural, they get so much praise for it, which shows that people appreciate it its just doesn’t happen enough basically. Interviewer: How do you think it’s the experience of people who suffer with skin problems? Interviewee: I think that they suffer in silence, they will never talk about it because they don’t wanna to drawn attention to it, so again I know people with acne and I cant understand how they must feel when they need to put makeup in every small occasion. It is an underrated problem, definitely! Interviewer: What do you think brands can do better to understand these people? Interviewee: With models for example, put someone with acne, someone realistic, cause the photos they use, its always someone with perfect skin but people with perfect skin don’t buy into acne brands. If a brand does then someone is gonna come and think : “Oh wow, that person´s got acne in the ad I am gonna buy this product.” Honesty and representation is missing for sure in skincare brands and that applies to every ethnicity, every race and colour. Interviewer:Thank you, that was really insightful!

Appendix 4D In depth interview with Jose Daniel Morales (Boots customer with acne) Gender :Female Age: 21 Interviewer: From a scale from 0 to 10, how happy are you with your skin ? Interviewee: Well right now 0 because I used to have a very clear skin, but since September something went wrong, I don’t know why and I started having a very bad acne and I haven’t had it for like 2 years Interviewer: Have you started a skincare routine as a result of your acne? Interviewee: Yes I do, I have had it since I was like 16. I always use a washer, a toner either to modify to skin or sometimes I use cotton pads as a second cleanse, then an eye cream and then a moisturises but it depends if it for the night or for the day and sometimes a serum too. Interviewer: In your opinion, do you think that social media puts a pressure how our skin should look like? Interviewee: There is always a pressure on having a clear skin, if you are gonna post a photo, you are forced to look good in that photo somehow. But in terms of social media you need to channel and follow the content that give you that positive energy and motivates you because if you don’t it will obviously make you depressed. Interviewer: In terms of beauty and skincare brands do you think have an authentic image brand image Interviewee: Definitely not, for me and especially our generation, we are so concerned of the environment so sometimes the brands wanna portray themselves as if they are fresh, clean natural, not using harsh chemicals, but most of them are just green washing the customer and doing it for money because it’s a trend to be environmentally friendly(Picks up a ´Botanicals cleanser´) Sometimes I do just take 5 minutes when I wanna buy any product and read the ingredients because that’s something brands can’t lie about because of legislation. They all wanna be Lush, but they don’t wanna take the perfumes, toxins out of it. Interviewer: Do you think our generation now more aware of skincare products and ingredients? Interviewee: I think so, now if you really want to learns about skincare, just go to Youtube, there are tons of videos of people saying what products worked for them and what did not work for them ? Interviewer: Do you trust these Youtubers/influencers? Interviewee: Sometimes I feel you can trust them at least when it comes to their skincare, cause some of them show photos before and after they had a bad skin and you can relate to that, and you just wanna get better so you follow their steps them, because they are speaking from their experiences Interviewer: What do you think of the stigma around your skin problem ? Interviewee: Oh yeah, well for example people would think you have acne because you don’t even wash your face, you don’t have a skincare routines. First of all, there are so many reasons behind acne, not only because of your genes but sometimes because of stress, people who have acne might even have a better and use way more products than those who don’t have acne. There are so many misconceptions out there. Interviewer: Are you currently aware of what products work for you ? Interviewee: One thing that I have found that and what lot of experts agree on, is that perfumes are really bad, and brands still use it to make the products smell good and luxurious to appeal to customers but it is just irritating. Also, I have read that essential oils are bad for you skin and people think its good because it is something natural, but actually it irritates your skin because they contain citric acid Interviewer: Why do you think brands are reluctant to foster skin positivity within their marketing? Interviewee: I know right! Most of time they use this type of models(Points at Neutrogena banner) It was photoshopped and its obvious has foundation and this is a skincare brand, so first of all she shouldn’t have a makeup on cause it is not what the brand is about its about skincare. Its fine you if show models with spots or acne scars cause scars are natural. I feel like they should choose a natural face, that can really make people relate to the brand way more. However, they don’t do it because it has worked for them for so long, I think they don’t even wanna try nothing new. Interviewer: Do you think that because you are a boy you can’t conceal your acne with foundation?

Interviewee: I feel like for women the standards of beauty are insane but for guys are no existent, if we even to buy concealers to cover up our acne because we can also not be comfortable about having acne and showing it. People think we don’t care but actually we do, like modern brands come up with products such as mattifying tint for men but they always have to label it as a product for men especially but actually there is no difference if you use for example a foundation for women because people would question your masculinity. It’s so annoying Interviewer: Do you think a more personalised solution to your skin problem would help to understand it better? Interviewee: I have heard that a more skincare brands are doing this and I think its really cool, you feel like it has been made only for you and it can help you, I know Clinique has started doing it for serums. Interviewer: Is price important to you when buying a skincare products? Interviewee: Well, you can get a very good product for a such a low price such as Ordinary. I would never spend more than 20 pound for a skincare product. There are so many products out there its just not worth it. But if you have that much money go for it, but in my opinion those high-end brands are just selling it for the sake of it not because they wanna help you and most of the time if it doesn’t work for you can’t even return it and you end up spending so much money and the product made your skin even worse Interviewer: Can I ask you opinion on these images? (Showed photographs took by Peter de Vito) Interviewee: I think that really amazing. I love it, we need that, we need that for every race. Positivity is always good because when you see that online it will definitely make you feel better Interviewer: Does you acne affect your mental health? Interviewee: Yes, it does, if you wake up and do you routine but your face still looks not the best and you go online where everyone posts edited and retouched pictures it will just make you sad because that’s not you right now. I definitely had those moments where I look terrible and I didn’t even want to go out. Interviewer: Fabs, thank you so much,have a good day!

Appendix 4E In depth interview with Laura Bialyova Gender :Female Age: 22 Interviewer: What is your skin concern right now? Interviewee: Currently, I’m struggling with acne breakouts, sensitive oily skin and acne scarring. Interviewer: On what aspects of your life does your skin issue impact on ? (Please feel free to mention as many as possible, i.e. social media, relationship, daily activities, emotional functioning) Interviewee: It definitely impacts a lot of stuff that I do, without me even realizing it. If the acne breakout’s bad, it’s the first thing I notice in the morning when looking into the mirror. I worry if it’s too visible, if I’ll be able to cover it properly, why am I breaking out. It impacts my relationships as to whether I want to go out with someone, it impacts my self-image and my confidence. It impacts what I get done that day. It impacts my schedule as I do not want to leave home without at least foundation on. If I take a photo, it’s the first thing I check, whether my skin looks clear, then I can think about posting it. Also, planning for outings, I need to make sure I will have access to hot water and my skincare products twice a day, therefore I do not go camping, attend festivals, make spontaneous trips. I have to think about the meals I consume, when I go somewhere, I need to make sure I will have access to dairy-free food. Also, moneywise, I invest a lot of money into my skincare and make-up products, due to my skin concerns. Interviewer: How does it make you feel on a day to day basis? Interviewee: I’d say skin issues can really play a trick on your mind. Nowadays, when I have an acne breakout, I feel that I can manage my thoughts in a less destructive way than when I was a teenager. It was on my mind constantly. And to some extent, it still is. When I look at other women, skin is the primary focus. I get jealous of women with naturally beautiful skin, it makes me feel less pretty. I feel way more attractive when my skin is doing well. Overall, I feel anxious and less confident because of the appearance of my skin. Interviewer: Did it impact your mental health in some way? Interviewee: Absolutely. As I mentioned before, when I was younger, I would take pictures of my bad skin and just stare at it and cry. I was disgusted with myself and thought that acne determines my worth. I think it was a combination of factors, but acne made me feel very self-conscious and was a big reason for my incredibly low self-esteem that manifested in unhealthy relationships with men, from whom I was seeking validation, that I am indeed more than just my acne. Interviewer Do you think that it is hard/was hard for you to create a skin care routine to take care of your problem because there the products out there lack of ? Why is that? Interviewee I think when I was teenager, rather the creating a proper skin care routine to prevent acne, I tried to hide it by investing into numerous foundations and concealers. Later, when I realized that is not going to help, I started my own research on the internet. Watching hours of videos, reading tons of articles and papers, visiting multiple dermatologists and several cosmeticians, I slowly tested GIANT AMOUNTS of products out there. I’d say there really isn’t a lack of products for treating acne. Unfortunately, there is a lack of products for acne that actually work. Interviewer: Do you think there is enough representation in our society who represent a positive image when it comes to your problem? Interviewee: Absolutely not. Never, ever have I seen anybody showing of their acne and not be shamed on TV. Or have a character on a tv show with acne that wouldn’t be considered ugly, outsider, awkward. I don’t necessarily have a need for movies to show actors with acne on purpose, but maybe it would be nice if it wasn’t such a big deal when someone has it. I have, however, found some people on youtube with massive following, who aren’t afraid to talk about their problem and show their skin. It is through these people, that I have realized I am not an only person with acne on the planet and I instantly felt a connection, which keeps me coming back to these people’s social media accounts.

Interviewer: Why do you think we don’t see more businesses taking action to foster positive skin image ? Interviewee: I think businesses care mostly about profit and not creating a healthy space in the society. It is the easiest thing to take a model with perfect skin (real or photoshopped) and say it’s because she has been using their products. I think companies are worried to take that extra step, where in an ad they would maybe show a girl with large pores using a pore-reducing cleanser, because they’re worried it won’t sell. We live in a world that’s obsessed with beauty and the perfect image. There is no money in telling someone they look good just the way they are. Interviewer: Although we are now seeing more people embracing their “imperfections” social media, do you think that this shouldn’t come as a shock and become a normality?

Interviewee: Obviously, I wish we could stop pretending that it is normal to wake up and look like an Instagram filter. It puts unhealthy self-image into our heads. We’re comparing ourselves all the time and that’s just perfect time for self-doubt and self-hate to crawl in. Interviewer: What do you think of companies using acne-free models in acne campaigns? Interviewee: It would be very refreshing to see models with actual skin troubles. I’m not saying it needs to be someone in a middle of a horrible breakout, but maybe someone with visible acne-scarring, few pimples, actual pores. If companies want us to buy their products, which they claim really work, why not do a before and after shoot of a model using the product. I am sick of the blemish-free advertising. There is no such thing. No woman has perfectly flawless skin. Why create such an image and advertise it so massively, when in reality it is unreachable. Interviewer: Do you think that an individual/personalised solution for your skin would help you to understand and treat your skin condition better and easily? Interviewee: Yes. I think I had to find that solution myself and it took a really long time. If I could have known how to take care of my skin and what’s happening to it when I was 15, it would have saved me a tons of emotional and physical struggle. Interviewer What are the common misconceptions, comments or questions about your acne and your appearance in general. What do you wish people knew about… like yours? Interviewee: I really don’t discuss my skin with anyone, unless I purposely start the conversation, like when I’m recommending a product that has helped me or so. People should realize, skin issues such as acne are not contagious, they are not a result of poor hygiene and different stuff works for different people. Interviewer: In the past few years there have been more conversations around the link between appearance and mental health, what are your thoughts? Interviewee: It is completely natural that when we meet a person, the first opinion we form of them is based on their appearance, as we have nothing else to go off from. Therefore, the obsession with looks. We have a need for validation, we need to feel like we belong, that we are liked and skin issues honestly stand in the way of us accepting our appearance and lead to not being content with ourselves. That is a gateway to self-hate, self-deprecation and eventually more serious mental issues. It’s very sad, but every day, more people are opening up about not feeling like they’re enough for this society and ending up with depression, eating disorders, self-harm tendencies. I think there definitely should be more awareness. Not only throughout social media, but at home with parents and children, among friends, in school and workplaces. Interviewer: What are your thoughts on the media visibility of acne? How do you think social media has impacted the visibility of different skin conditions? Interviewee :I think it depends on the specific people. An expectation of perfection for both men and women has been set by social media, causing a lot of distress for people suffering with skin issues. However, if you look hard enough, there are platforms that acknowledge these problems and/or are trying to create a space for people to share their experience and open a discussion about their issues. But a lot of times these platforms get attacked with hate comments and receive negative attention. Interviewer: Have any positives come out of your acne? Interviewee: Yes! It’s like with everything in life, there is some good in every bad. I have a worked-out multiple-step skin care routine, that I NEVER skip. I really hope it pays off in the future when the skin starts aging. I also learned a lot of stuff about my body and health through acne. I am more careful about what I eat. I ingest way less sugars and don’t eat any dairy. I feel as if having acne actually makes me lead a more balanced and healthier lifestyle. So, to a certain extent, I owe my acne a lot. On the other hand, I wouldn’t be sad if it left and never came back. Interviewer: Lovely, thank you sweetie!

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Appendix 5A Industry Interview with Natalia Perexta at Navan Skin Clinic Interviewer: What in your opinion is the most desired thing in skincare industry? Natalia:The main thing is to stay young and now with social media everyone is concerned about how they look because they wanna look flawless. Interviewer: Do you feel like that this pressure has grown because of the visual world we live now? Natalia:Yeah definitely! People are seeing things on Instagram and to be honest I am too guilty of using the pretty filter sometimes and people will message me : “Oh wow you have such a good skin, what do you do”? and I am like… I have a good skin but It’s a filter! It’s kinda sad that there is that standard where you can just click the filter and your skin is flawless which is not realistic, but I think people are just looking for that look. I see this a lot of this pressure in the anti-aging marketing, it talks to you as if you have to depreciate yourself as you get older and you are less of a human being and you have to look like a 20-year old in your fifties, which is unrealistic unless you are injecting yourself will Botox and fillers. Interviewer What is the most common problem people want to help with. Natialia: Usually its pigmentation, anti-aging, acne, but the main thing I would say is stay young, to as I have mentioned to have flawless skin. Besides our treatments I get a lot of questions from my clients about the order of products and how to layer them in a right way. Back in the day then the skincare routine was all about cleanse, tone and moisturiser, regime invented by Clinique, they were first to educate people on this. But people can be more confused than ever for example they have heard of Korean 16 step routine and suddenly they feel like they need to follow every step and use everything from a cleanser to an eye cream, which isn’t sometimes even necessary. A simple skincare can be more effective and for someone who is 20, 25 or 50, it doesn’t matter what age you are, you tend to have the same key simple ingredients in your food so why can’t this be transferred in the skincare? Interviewer What are the products you see people use that aren’t right for them, products they use? Natalia : Everybody needs to be their own skin expert because what works for me, may not work for somebody else. I educate people to get to know their own skin and how to look after their own skin. By education people can look after themselves and eventually learn what works for them and what not. Its same as going to the dentist, getting your car serviced so similarly have a professional to educate you. Consistency is key, when my clients visit me and bring all the products they use, I just simplify it, go back to basics I say and then we can start adding more things to improve your skin. Interviewer: Have you noticed connection between mental health and skin in recent years, does that have an impact on acne per se? Natalia:Yeah for sure, I think the medical community have been particularly bad over the years about realising that skin and skin conditions can have an impact on your mental health, but I think we are waking up to that. Stress certainly can be a driving factor but living with those conditions and the unpredictability of those can create all sorts of issues with low self-esteem, poor body image, which shouldn’t be underestimated by any professional. Interviewer: Do you think there is anything beauty and skin industry should be actively doing or not doing related to skin positivity? Natalia: We need more wide representation of beauty; it has started recently with beauty brands started widening their selection of foundation shades because they got this wakeup call from people who started the conversation. But we have to go beyond the number of foundation shades. Just seeing more people of colour and race to be represented generally in terms of marketing and people who make the products. Interviewer: As skincare professional what are your thoughts on the instore drugstore skincare products versus professional dermatology ones? Natalia: I think you need to do your research as a consumer, many buy product just based on the look of the packaging. Always see an aesthetician or professional who is really looking to help you and not to sell you something. From my practice I see that a lot of consumer feel lost and they pick what their friends has or just pick up the product not knowing what skin type they have. I would say stop looking at the branding find active ingredients that are gonna work for your skin and your skin concern. One of the top active ingredients I look for is always Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid and these are incredible together, fortunately they have become trends in the beauty industry because they work. Interviewer: What is your skincare routine now? Natalia: Everything simple, I don’t believe in the 10 and 16 step skincare regimes, I don’t think it’s feasible I cleanse thoroughly, not over cleansing, a serum, moisturiser, retinol, hyaluronic acid and I a huge advocate for sunscreen, sadly many people do not realise how important it is to use spf on a daily basis. Interviewer: One thing you would like to change in the beauty industry? Natalia: More education on the right products or ingredients for you skin less a bluff but not every product is for every skin type and most of the people don’t have flawless skin naturally, be aware of social media and following your favourite influencers, but a lot of these people are getting paid to talk about the product they say they love….And yeah, just more education on simple ways to take care of your skin.

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Interviewer: What have you seen has changed for the better within your industry? Natalia: For one, people are listening and that is so important that years ago maybe couldn’t happen, the issues within the beauty industry around race and representation couldn’t happen between people who are not all the same colour, you didn’t feel the climate was there, you didn’t feel people want to listen or didn’t want to address the issue. But now I think more people are actually more interested and want to listen and be part of the solution. Also, they are becoming more understandable because of the commercial reasons, people are beginning to understand that people of other races are spending more money on beauty and skincare products. Interviewer: Thank you so much!

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Od: Lex Gilles

Odoslané: utorok 21. januára 2020 15:45 Appendix 5B Industry Interview with Lex Gilles Komu: Nela Grigel'ova 2017 (N0756979) Predmet: Answers

You are quite vocal about skin positivity and I have seen you mention quite it lot on your Instagram as well as on your blog, could you describe the term and what that means to you personally as someone who has a skin condition? Lex: Sure, I think it means a lot of things to a lot of people, I try to compare it to similar to the body positive movement. But I am aware that people who are not directly affected with the issue, they become blind to it and if you are not in that community you would find it hard to understand. Therefore, how I would describe it to people is that skin positivity movement shows that you don’t have to look the certain way and that it is also okay not to be okay about your skin, whatever condition you're dealing with. What are your thoughts on the skin neutrality movement? I see skin neutrality as a noble and admirable concept but I'm not sure if I will ever reach that point myself although I have accepted the fact that it is a lifelong condition, it is still a difficult thing to make peace on a psychological level. How can one practice skin neutrality? Finding the community was the biggest thing for me. It has the power to connect people and make you feel less alone. Even if you don’t have a skin condition or feel like your skin is perfect the way it is starting following these feeds and seek out these hashtags and accounts and start exposing yourself to people who look different even if you are not used to it and it will bring up those prejudices keep exposing yourself to it because of that the only way we can change the behaviour and encourage more open empathy.

Recently you had a problem on social media, where Instagram banned a hashtag that supported photos of people who posted their visible differences, why do you think this happened? Lex: Social media and especially Instagram make their own rules, we don’t pay to use this platform and if you ever don’t pay from something you are the product. I after I got in touch with Instagram to resolve the issue, I found out that the hashtag wasn’t the issue in the first place, but the guidelines that mark skin conditions as undesirable content. As someone who is deep very in the skin positivity movement, I see a lot of doubtful people trying to sell overpriced products that claim will cure your skin problem, from that point of you I understand that they are trying to get around that and protect people by not allowing ads that show skin conditions in case people are selling things. But in their own words, they said they have a team of highly trained people who look at the ads, but I wasn’t selling any snake oil type of product, I was just trying to help and empower people. So obviously the guidelines themselves are very misguided and their team has probably a very little experience in this field. I think this is probably one of the problems as Facebook and Instagram are free to use but at the same time they are so big and so pervasive they have become part of our everyday life, space a

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platform that exists for us to communicate with one another across the world and a part of that communication is to combat social issues which include discrimination so I do feel this deserves a level a responsibility but I don’t know if they would change in that sense. What is your advice to someone who does have a skin condition or any skin problem and is seeking out the community and wants to start sharing their visible face? I think it is one of those 'take the leap' however it could be easier for someone to expose themselves to a stranger rather than friends in real life. Potentially, start off with the secret account that nobody from your friends can find and then maybe start off with sharing through text even if you post a completely unrelated photo. Once you start to immerse yourself in the community and see other people of all gender or races who look like you, who feel similar to you, you won’t feel alone in this. Also, it is important to bear in mind that you don’t have to accept rude comments. But if you can try to educate people, ignorance often results in insensitive comments and if you can help to inform the, you might save someone else’s feelings in the future. What are your thoughts on the overall media visibility of skin conditions? As I spokesperson for rosacea community, I think it’s still a very underrated skin condition, however, the skin positivity movement is finally showing some real inclusive diversity that rightfully represents the different range of skin in society. But social media, in this case, can be a double-edged sword. I find the overly photoshopped photos are a lot more harmful than anything else because of that is something that has been proved especially for young people who see these photos who know they are not real and been photoshopped to the oblivion and still compare themselves to them. This makes it even harder for them to put yourself out there knowing you will be side by side with these people. Instagram especially could and can be a good source because from my experience many people discovered me through that and it helped them, knowing someone is going through the same thing and anything I can do to raise awareness of it and make other people feel comfortable is amazing. Fortunately, we have photographers like Peter de Vitto, Sophie Harris Taylor, and also Dove´s Project Show Us is inspiring consumers all around the world. In the past few years, there has been more conversation around the link between appearance and mental health, what are your thoughts? I have an immeasurable amount of thoughts on this. Of course, the two are closely linked, especially in this day and age. I get genuinely scared for young people these days, especially with all the exposure to social media. Young people and also the older community need more exposure to real people and real skin and body. The only way that can happen is if the media listens to us. What can be done by beauty and skincare industries to overcome the barriers associated with skin positivism? There is definitely more interest in mainstream media and skin positivity but I think a lot of consumers with not only rosacea but other skin issues would rather feel more positive to have that representation and buy products from a company that is more inclusive by shedding a positive light on skin conditions. For example, acne is always portraited in a negative context when it comes to traditional media and people see talking about skin as very vain and that’s why they don’t talk about it and find it hard to open up. What are the common forms of misinformation that you hear about your skin? There is a belief that you are not looking after yourself, you are an alcoholic, you don’t eat very well,

wearing makeup makes your skin worst. It is the same to the people who have acne, people who make assumptions based on what you look like and by telling you this as if you never heard of it. Only fair-skinned people can be affected by rosacea which is not true, many people from Latin America and others who have a darker skin tone are asking for advice.

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Appendix 6A STEEPLE Model

Social : Inclusivity Demand “Traditional beauty standards have started to crumble under the might of inclusivity, as a wide array of skin types are making their way to the conversation around skincare and demand a seat at the mainstream table in the same way colour cosmetics have, with wider ranges of foundation shades to suit different skin tones.” (Khatib, 2020) Rise in online beauty communities “Online beauty platforms will soon outrank other media such as magazines and TV as the main source for beauty product information, users trust these groups’ opinions and recommendations because they are based on the real-life experiences of real people. This trust explains why they have become people’s first port of call about hair and skin care problems and solutions.”(Global Cosmetic Industry, 2014)

Minimalism “A growing number of UK women are turning away from the multi-step K-Beauty routine, the need for simplicity has pushed them towards minimalist skincare products with more intense active ingredients, such as serums and oils.” (Fisher, 2017)

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Technological: Bespoke Beauty “Advancements in artificial intelligence, virtual reality, and augmented reality have started to deliver experiences that rival the in-store experience via beauty consultants. Innovations such as smart apps and tools that track beauty regimes and recommend products and can provide a real-time diagnostics and personalised solutions to supply to the consumer experience ”(Live Area, 2019) As tech becomes more sophisticated, tools that assist in determining the best skincare product to use based on geographic location or climate are the next step in the future of personalisation. The Omnipresence of Filters “Social media is filled with apps like Facetune, Photoshop and filters. While ten years ago only magazines and advertisements would alter their images, it’s now widespread and pervasive. Skincare activists are now preaching skin positivity as a newer alternative to ease the journey to acceptance with the skin we’re born and to counteract the stigma with via posting their real skin online.” (Khatib, 2020) Economic: The Influencer Economy “The power of beauty influencers cannot be ignored, with the influencer market estimated to reach $10bn by 2020 it is the new power of beauty sector. (Yee, 2019) “Ultra-influencers like Kylie Jenner and Rihanna are replacing supermodels as the face of beauty. They create their own beauty brands and sell them to huge social media followings, transforming their fan-base into revenue,” (Live Area, 2019) this is especially important to the Millennial generation as “80% of the 385 marketing specialists polled said influencers are a key factor in the buying decisions of Millennials. Trust and credibility are however important as consumers seek more authentic voices.” (Yee, 2019) Environmental : Conscious Consumers “The 21stcentury consumer has woken up to the real cost that their beauty regimen has on the planet, and is realising that simple but effective steps need to be taken to clean up their routines – and the beauty business.“ (Sanderson, 2019) The fight against single-use plastic is now also impacting the microbead, wet wipes and glitter industries, with biodegradable alternatives being implemented. The purchase behaviour of a Millennial consumer supports this “40% of Millennials report increasing their purchases of natural skin and hair care products in the last . “(Linkage Research & Consulting, 2019)

P L E

Political: Political Activism “Millennials are particularly socially and politically vocal right now. We are in the age of Greta Thunberg, the Swedish school-child climate activist, the David Attenborough revolution, and the Extinction Rebellion.” (Live Area, 2019) “With such movements as #BlackLivesMatter and the Women’s March, millennials are willing to be active about issues that affect them directly. At the same time, however, they engage on behalf of people who cannot speak for themselves.” (Economy, 2019) Post- Brexit Panic According to research carried out by Swedish skincare brand FOREO (2019)“46% of women who use European beauty brands think that their favourite products will increase in price after Brexit, and just over a quarter of millennials have either already started to stockpile products or would consider doing so.“(Vallis,2019) A strong brand ethos will drive loyalty throughout these times of uncertainty and that actually, it could work in favour of British brands.” (Curry, 2019) Legal: Not certified organic “There are no legal standards for the use of the terms organic or natural on beauty products, any brand or beauty product can be labeled as natural or organic even if it contains virtually no organic or natural ingredients. This makes it very difficult for consumers to know they are making the right choice when doing their shopping.” (Smithers, 2017) Ethical: Animal Testing In 2013, the European Union became one of the first regions in the world to ban animal testing for cosmetics. “The more countries that end animal testing, the stronger the pressure on the remaining ones not to be left behind, especially as companies still conducting tests on animals will run into the European marketing ban.“(Palmer,2016)

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Appendix 7A

Appendix 7C

Social- Comparison Theory Model

Mixed-Methods Concurrent Triangulation Strategy

Appendix 7.B

Appendix 7D

Model of the interacting factors implicated in the origin and maintenance of skin specific affect/distress.

The Quality of Life Model

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Appendix 7E Maslow´s Hierarchy of Needs

Appendix 7G

A conceptual model was developed from the qualitative data, which illustrates the impact of acne on HRQL and the links between concepts (Fig. 4). Emotional functioning is central to the conceptual model, as this appeared to have a subsequent impact on all other areas of HRQL.

them on a scale from ‘‘not important at all’’ to ‘‘critical/essential’’. The same three attributes were rated most highly by adolescents and adults: treatment works quickly, does not cause irritation, and does not bleach. Some example quotations about the treatment attributes are displayed in Fig. 5. For adolescents it was

Appendix 7F Conceptual model of the impact of acne on healthrelated quality of life (HRQL).

Fig. 4 Conceptual model of the impact of acne on healthrelated quality of life (HRQL). Arrows indicate direction of inﬂuence; dotted arrows indicate a potential moderator that can have a positive or negative inﬂuence on the extent

of impact on HRQL. This ﬁgure was ﬁrst presented at the 26th European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology Congress, September 13–17, 2017, Geneva, Switzerland

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Appendix 8A

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Appendix 9A Focus Group 1 Consent Forms

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Appendix 9B Focus Group 2 Consent Forms

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Appendix 9C Industry Interview Consent Form

Appendix 9D Industry Interview An Email Consent Lex Gillies <talontedlex@hotmail.co.uk >

(no subject) 1 message

Lex Gillies <talontedlex@hotmail.co.uk> To: "Nela Grigel'ova 2017 (N0756979)" <nela.grigel'ova2017@my.ntu.ac.uk>

11 January 2020 at 13:47

Hi Nela, Sorry for just getting back to you, I hope you will find my answers helpful, I tried to expand on them as much as possible, you have my consent to use them in your research. Good luck with your dissertation! All the best, Lex

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Appendix 9E In-depth Interviews Consent Forms

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Appendix 9F Store Observations Interviews Consent Forms

Appendix 10A Gant Chart Week Commencing 18th Nov

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Theory research Write literature review Write and send out survey Contact experts Depth interviews Focus group Contact dermatology experts Shop safari Analyse all results Write report Create visuals Print report Hand-in

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