TREND MAP
Nela Grigelova N0756979 Word count:2753
CONTENTS Introduction 6 Methodology 7 Trend forecasting 8-9 Role of media 10-11 Political Influences 12-13 Globalisation 14-15 Impacts on trends 16-17 Ethical retailers 18-19 SS18 trends 20-21 Timeless Tweed 22 Evolution of tweed 23 Tweed Moodboard 24-25 Trend Drivers 26-28 Nottingham Shop Safari 30-31 Styling shoot 32-33 Editorial 34-41 Conclusion 42-43 Image references 45-48 References48-49 Bibliography 50-52 Appendix 52
INTRODUCTION 6
This Trend map report will uncover a full of understanding of trend cycle and trend forecasting in general, but more specifically their importance and involvement in fashion,exploring the influences and impacts of why trends develop as well as their lifespan and impact on the industry. It is essential to identify how of these trend elements have evolved over time leading up to the present trends seen today. The 4 key fashion trends from Spring/ Summer 2018 will be identified, furthermore focusing on just one of this seasons trends. More detailed research will be carried out exploring document of relevant historical, social and cultural influence, that explain the background of the trend and how this trend has evolved overtime. Plus, it will be demonstrated how the trend has been interpreted by the consumers today.
METHODOLOGY In order to gain the appropriate and relevant information to conduct the report, both primary and secondray research was carried out. Primary research involved shop safari´s, trend tracking, consumer/trend observations and interviews, high street trend photographs and location and model research for chosen trend styling shoot. Secondary research included various types of literature and resources such as : books, magazines, articles ,websites like WGSN, Business of Fashion and social media platforms.
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TREND FORECASTING The cycle of marketing activity begins and ends with consumer needs and especially in terms of forecasting new trends, which is a complex and difficult process. Trends are not limited to apparel, accessories, and cosmetics and other consumer products. It is also the prediction of mood, behavior and buying habits of the consumer at particular time of season.
“Forecasting is both an art and a science It is an art because forecasts are often based on intuition, good judgment and creativity. It is also a science because forecasters use analytical concepts and models to predict forthcoming trends in systematic ways.� (Sproles & Burns, 1994).
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Within the fashion industry ,the trend forecasting performs a vital. Many companies, from raw material producers to manufacturers and retailers, value trend information, not only for creative inspiration but to stay competitive in an increasingly complex world of fashion. Because, fashion is constantly changing and because it is affected by numerous factors. Professionals in the textile and apparel industry begin predicting trends about two years before a particular style is marketed.(Kim,Fiore and Kim, 2011) It involves a systematic procedure, including information gathering, market, consumer research and analysis. Furthermore ,trend forecasters enable businesses to make the right design decisions, so they can make relevant products in fast changing world (Posner, 2015). Targeting trends in this industry can develop a strong brand loyalty, especially if a certain brand provides a rapid trend development. However, the real skill of the forecaster lies in combining with statistical market research and observation of socio-economic shifts, these sources also give an insight into what the next emerging trend may be and show the direction and potential reaction of consumer culture.
The way in which a trend´s future is prognosticated by forecasters, taken up by consumers and the way it moves through a population can be explained using Everett Rogers´s Diffusion of Innovation (1962).
Diffusion of Innovation (1962).
A trend will originate within the innovator group of individuals, adventurous types who are cutting edge in their ideas. The ´Early Adopters ´ stage is where the trends grow rapidly. As the trend takes hold a tipping point will be reached, this stage affects the brands the most. This is the moment when the adoption rate of the trend increases exponentially, and they start to implement marketing strategies to push the trend, so it can spread rapidly and reaches the mass market. Eventually the trend will peak and begin its decline. The late majority purchase the trend just as its fashion-ability and mass-market appeal begin to drop.(Posner,2015)
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A tool that is used to “allow retailers to better predict the sales and of profitability of specific styles (Kim,Fiore and Kim, 2011) is the ´fashion life cycle´. It has four key stages: introduction,growth,maturity and decline,which may remain low and constant in the case of classic or tail off to nothing. Sales of a fashion fad might take off suddenly. Growth might be rapid,reach peak and drop quickly,the fad will die out once consumers who want the particular fashion owns it. When a fashion trend reaches maturity,sales will flatten out. This is the indication of the declining sales stage.(Posner,2015)
SALES
FAD TREND
INTRODUCTION
GROWTH
MATURITY
CLASSIC
DECLINE
TIME Fashion Life Cycle (Posner,2015)
ROLE OF MEDIA
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T
he media landscape is changing continuously, with technology advancing at the speed of light. The media plays a significant role when it comes to fashion. For instance, an important part of fashion industry is fashion journalism. Editorial critique, guidelines, and commentary can be found on television and in magazines. A new niche for fashion journalists has been evolving in new or digital media, where specifically fashion blogs and social media.
Both fashion blogs and social media have recently made an elitist industry more accessible and relatable to every day consumers. Fashion bloggers are encouraging a two-way symmetrical approach by opening up communication between those in the fashion industry and citizens. Fashion bloggers are now using their influence to drive trends, inform the public about the latest fashion news and more (Durmaz, 2014). According to Forbes study: 78% of consumers say companies’ social media posts impact their purchases (Olenski, 2012).
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A great example of turning blogging into a multimillion-dollar businesse is LA-based Chiara Ferragni, whose blog is called The Blonde Salad, has 6.7 million followers on Instagram, 1.2 million Facebook subscribers, a website that's enormously popular, her own shoe range and a #1 on Forbes' Top Influencers list. (O´Connor, 2017)
POLITICAL INFLUENCES Political culture plays a critical role in the fashion industry. Most of the political events and laws are affecting fashion in a way of creating fashion trend. Considering the relationship between fashion and politics, we can see how fashion is not only a matter of aesthetic but it involves politics as well. Not only did political events make a huge impact on trends but also the political figure played a critical role in forecasting the fashion trend. For example, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy was a fashionable icon of the early 1960s who led formal dressing trend.
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Nowadays ,the recent political events like implications of Brexit to the election of Donald Trump, are having a massive influence on the fashion industry and its consumers. Fashion weeks act as a great platform for designers to express their views on the current global political climate via their runway shows and collections as well as globally influence the masses.
According to Lorna Hall, at trend forecaster WGSN: “Lots of brands are deciding to take a stand around certain things because they believe that their customers would want them to,” Maria Grazia Chiuri and collection for Dior Spring 2017 celebrated feminism and women’s rights with the T-shirt decorated with the words We Should All Be Feminists (Binkley, 2017).
“Political discussions have reached fever pitch this year, but when it comes to ongoing social movements such as feminism, racial politics, immigration and LGBT rights, debates were already becoming louder and more contentious even before the Brexit vote and the US election.� (Laughlin, 2016)
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GLOBALISATION 14
Within the last ten years, globalization has become a huge part of the fashion industry. As fashion images in magazines, music videos, films, the Internet and television speed their way around the world, they create a “global style� across borders and cultures. (Kaiser, 1999) Global retailers have taken note of global consumers consumption patterns, culture, found what was selling where, and expanded business in top selling areas. Luxury global retailers such as Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Michael Kors have expanded in Asia where they have experienced great success with consumers. When a product is produced in one country and consumed in another, we have cross-cultural consumption (Howes, 2003) For global retailers to achieve success across the globe, they must adopt the cultures branding strategies of their target market (Sweeny, 2015) . Fashion is a multi-billion-dollar industry that has to survive in a more and more competitive global market and produce for a trans-continental audience. Fashion became an open world thanks to the cultural globalization. With the expansion of global retailers and the competitiveness of the participants of the global market the industry the trend turnover is faster as it used to be, in order to have an influence over consumer. (Sweeny, 2015) To adapt to this constant flow of trends, retailers has relocated their products to developing countries, where globalization has resulted in the destabilizing of official economies, massive unemployment, and the rise of informal or underground economies
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IMPACT OF TRENDS With the increase of technology, convenience and shoppers desire for more trends and immediacy in everything, has forced the fashion industry to evolve, with consumers dictating the fashion lifecycle. The international expansion of fast fashion retailers exacerbates this problem on a global scale. Textile waste is an unintended consequence of fast fashion. Wardrobes in developed nations are saturated, so in order to sell more products, the use of mass-marketing techniques is a must. Retailers like Topshop, Zara or H&M tempt shoppers with constant newness and convince them the items they already have are no longer fashionable. (Perry, 2018) This has numerous effects on the retailers on fashion retailers, economy as well as the environment. As demand is much higher than the supply, the fast fashion puts a pressure on manufactures in pursuit to produce more at the lowest costs. Therefore, the most convenient solution for these brands is to base the production in developing countries. However, the retailers do not take into account the unfair and often dangerous working conditions that the workers face in these factories. As an example is a collapse in Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh in 2013, which killed more than a thousand people who were employed by multinational brands.
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Following the disaster, an accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh was signed by 1600 factories, although only a handful implementing changes and 1000’s of workers are still operating in buildings without fire escapes. (Kasperkevic, 2016)
Media coverage of Rana Plaza acted as a catalyst for fashion brands to jump into action and satisfy a new breed of conscious consumers demanding for ethical standards. This affects the application of trends as buyers need to be aware where they source their materials and manufacturing from.
“Three-quarters of Britons throw away unwanted clothing, rather than donating or recycling it.�
These fashion and environment facts below, show the side-effects of consumers consumption of trends
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(Textile Today, 2016)
88% of UK and US Millennials and Generation X believe brands need to do more good, not just ‘less bad.�(VERDE NIETO, 2016)
Ethical retailers To cultivate a greener image, H&M has a sustainability effort called H&M Conscious: a “promise to bring you more fashion choices that are good for people, the planet and your wallet." But what of its claims of sustainability? There is some question as to whether this is real greening or just green-washing. (Sweeny 2015)
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There are many different organizations that recognize sustainable production, such as the Soil Association and Fair Trade Foundation. An example of where a company has done a good job of monitoring supply chain issues (both social and environmental) ones though is Patagonia . One of the best examples of sustainable luxury label is Stella McCartney who is pioneer for ethically-produced and environmentally luxury fashion since 2001 (Peoples , 2017).
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"Our man-made constructed environments are disconnected and unaware of other life and the planet, which is why there is waste.� (McCartney, 2017)
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SS18 TRENDS
TIMELESS TWEED 22
A Timeless Tweed trend has been selected for further analysis. Wearing a tweed was usually connected with outwear clothing because of its durable material. However, SS18 sees tweed evolving in different colors and patterns than before, and is being applied onto different accessories and outfits The trend now is much more playful and urban without losing its very flexible texture.
Evolution of tweed Tweed was originated in the 18th century in Scotland, when Scottish weavers set out to create a denser option, perfect for outerwear. In 1924 Coco Chanel was drawn to the sophistication of the fabric and in Chanel enlisted a Scottish factory to produce her iconic tweed fabrics.
In the 1930s, Chanel transforming the traditional Scottish woven fabric into a feminine luxury. She was the first who experimented with this iconic material, incorporating new fabrics like wool and silk into her tweed designs.
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In the 50s and 60s, Chanel reintroduced the Chanel jacket in pastel colours and quickly became a status symbol of the British aristocracy. Even today, traditional and Chanellike tweed is a favorite of fashionistas everywhere. Retailers and designers have even offered their own tweed options to those wanting the polish look without the hefty price tag (Friedlader, 2014).
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CLASS STYLE
NOW
PAST
STATUS INNOVATION.
The mood-board on the previous double page shows the contrast between the past interpretation of the trend using images that are usually associated with the classic tweed material, and its new and innovative form without losing anything in the way of elegance and style. Nowadays you can expect to find wool blended from denim to chiffon, rubber thread and feathers. It can be embroidered with glitter, sequins, pearls and more.
TREND DRIVERS To understand why is tweed on rise in 2018, it is crucial to recognize the driving aspects behind this trend.
MAGAZINE COVERS
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Since 1950´s , fashion magazines have been fashioning the timelessness of the tweed trend by using female models. From material that was primarily designed for men and associated with British upper class, rural life and aristocracy, tweed has advanced into a sophisticated and feminine trend. Magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire have channelled this elegant tweed look influencing female consumers all over the world as front covers are the first thing that attracts consumers eye. The bespoke tweed method has been appreciated by the magazine editors who used famous models to showcase the variety of styling tweed trend, from Chanel-like smart business look to glamorous day look. For example, in the 50s they started appropriating tweed masculine items to challenge society and femininity as a form of rebellion and female empowerment. (Friedlader, 2014). Proved by the front cover model poses,reflecting strong postures and direct contact with the camera.
CELEBRITY INFLUENCE Celebrities have also increased the popularity of the trend. Kate Middleton a modern royal who is a huge influence on the fashion industry, it’s a fact that she is known as a trend setter. She’s so influential that her wearing a particular brand or product has helped businesses grow. As well as Queen Elizabeth II who had been showing her love for tweed for a decade. Similarly, Rihanna is a fashionista in today’s society much like Kate, but she has a different audience. This shows the size of the trend tweed from royalty like the queen and Kate and Rihanna the music artist. Model and trend-setter Kendall Jenner wearing a Chanel tweed suit on live show had an immediate impact on the high-street retailers as well as the consumers, because she is one of the most influential people on social media. High street retailers are aware of the power that these celebrities and as a result of this heavy influence, they quickly start producing their own interpretations of the trend to the mass market
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Dorothy Perkins
MEDIA INFLUENCE Tweed is not only a trend for women. In terms of the menswear, the trend stays true to the British heritage. The Peaky Blinders series being viewed by roughly 3.6 million people has also had a huge effect on tweed & menswear fashion, showing a new way for men to style the material. Male consumers imitating the Peaky Blinders aesthetic by wearing a three-piece herringbone suit (in the style of Thomas Shelby) “There’s a return to nostalgic items that emanate from their surroundings,” says creGordon Richardson (Creative Director, Topman) on why is tweed ’trendy ’ right now. Also, due to popularity of Benedict Cumberbatch’s portrayal of Sherlock, the tweed overcoat entered high fashion in the 2010s.(Armstrong, 2012)
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Garrison Tailors
Burberry Prorsum
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Ermenegildo Zegna
NOTTINGHAM SHOP SAFARI
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Primary research was carried out in the streets of Nottingham, tracking the timeless tweed trend on the high streets. A Shop Safari´s revealed a particularly strong presence across a variety of stores. A fashion forward Zara and River Island were one of the key retailers that stocked a Chanel-like tweed. These stores are both known for its instant ability to identify trends from the catwalks and make them available for the consumers. In terms of visual merchandising the highest concentration of trend was situated at the front and on the side-walls of store. As seen in fig.1, a Zara styled mannequin proves that this trend has been favored amongst customers as it was chosen to be positioned at the entrance of store. Observation in Topshop, Zara, River Island and Monsoon proved the versatility of the trend. Each high street brand adapted the trend in their own unique way. For example, River Island, focused more on elegant co-ord sets and pearl embroidered blazers, giving the garments luxurious finish. A more casual approach has been adopted by the same retailer in fig.3 with white elegant blazer styled over a gray t-shirt . However, Zara´s and Monsoon´s way of styling was more playful and detail oriented with multicolored jackets and skirts imitating an ethnic style that is popular at festivals. From this analysis, it was evident that the retailers are trying to target the trend at younger demographics, specifically Millennials with a profound fashion taste, as well as professional and mature female consumers. Retailers are penetrating the trend at full force and with a high-end styling, but this trend may not fully in work in Nottingham, especially amongst the younger demographic due to high rate of athleisure trend, that is very popular in student-oriented Nottingham. Therefore, the growth of the trend in Nottingham might not be as rapid as it would be hoped from the retailers perspective. However, a more professional middle-aged consumers would support the growth and awareness of the timeless tweed trend.
Zara
River Island
River Island
River Island
Monsoon
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Zara
Zara
River Island
Zara
PHOTO SHOOT MOOD BOARD
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STYLING SHOOT As Karl Lagerfeld once said, “Some things never go out of fashion in the world of fashion: jeans, the white shirt, and the Chanel jacket.� Observed from a primary research the idea of the photo shoot was to reinterpret the Chanel´s timeless tweed look, instead of the heritage tweed, as it would be more suitable to represent the ambiance of Spring-Summer trend. The utilized images on the next pages are to accompany a piece of fashion editorial for Teen Vogue magazine. Therefore, to effectively market this trend for the consumer a headline Millennial Tweed has been chosen in order to make the trend attractive to a younger demographic without losing anything in the way of elegance and glamour. The target audience are young ,aspirational females with a flair for details and A private photographic studio was chosen as a location after getting an inspiration from Vogue Nederland with a cover model Gigi Hadid. The reasoning behind this choice was following: a comfortable ambiance, convenient in transport and location, no need to rely on the weather, easiness of changing outfits and control of lightning. 33 The model was selected because of her past modeling experience and charm relatable to the consumer. The canvas backdrop gave the shoots a classy and professional touch allowing to show the marketed garments at its absolute best. However ,the garments were not a 100% boucle tweed, the detailed shots emphasized the reminiscence of the Chanel-like aesthetic.
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TEEN VOGUE EDITORIAL
MILENNIAL TWEED Both pages: Mango trim tweed jacket £49.99, Topshop blue skinny jeans. £46.00, H&M black lace bralet £19.99, Silver jewellery - model´s own, H&M black leather belt £9.99, River Island baker boy hat, £20.00
For a new take on heritage classic wear it minimal and modern, style your favorite tweed jacket with a basic tee or a lace bralet for more bolder look. Also, a good pair of skinny jeans are must.
Milennial TWEED
This season tweed has been rejuvenated, modern silhouettes meets classic details. No longer confined to your winter wardrobe, tweed is the best way that will serve you well into the spring and beyond. Photographed by Nela GRIGELOVA
CITY WINNER A perfect ladylike tweed handbag is a key enhancement to your either work, everyday or party outfit. After the commonness of the very the streetwear-infused collections, with an embroidered tweed handbag, nothing will stop you to be empowered and glamorous
Both pages: River Island white boucle faux pearl trim blazer £70.00, Topshop black skinny jeans. £46.00, H&M black lace bralet £19.99, Silver jewelery - model´s own, Zara tweed embroidered handbag £29.99
Team your pretty little frayed tweed dress with matching red and silver accessories for a head-turning look.
Left page: Zara ecru frayed tweed dress, £29.99, Silver jewelery - model´s own, New Look red leather handbag ,£29.99 Right page: River Island coord set, white boucle faux pearl trim blazer £70.00, River Island white boucle frill pearl mini skirt £40.00, Quay black sunglassesmodel´s own
Channel you inner Coco with the classy and fabulous co-ord set, we could see Gabrielle herself in this piece.
CONCLUSION
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O
verall, the evidence presented within this report show that, trends are in constant cycle everywhere throughout society, lifestyle and fashion. Regarding my project, I have learned theories that are crucial for fashion forecasters in order to prognosticate the success of the trends, including the diffusion of innovation and the stages of life-cycle, and how each of the stage impacts the way in which it is adopted by retailers, due to more demanding consumers for fast fashion trends. For the Tweed trend, thanks to its historical and cultural value the trend has always stayed in fashion proving to be one of the most versatile trends throughout fashion history. As observed from Nottingham Shop Safari, leading retailers like Zara, Topshop, River Island and Mango quickly identified the potential success of tweed trend from the catwalks, marketing the trend in evolved style within SS18 collections. Role of media especially fashion magazine covers, and celebrity influences played a key role in driving and communicating the timeless tweed trend to consumers. Plus, social media has heightened the trend success as well, due bloggers and Instagram influencers. The Instagram hash-tag ‘Tweed ' has over 567,770 posts on Instagram which proves the popularity of the trend mainly among Millennial generation, which is ranked as the technology-driven generation. This would be beneficial for the tweed trend in order to increase its trend life cycle and successfully influence future consumer´s purchase decisions who could strengthen the possible sales. The new glamorous take on the country classic shows better signs for the environment, as fashion trends have severe impacts on natural resources, causing environmental damage through waste, and as this trend has lasted through seasons, many of the garments are likely to be re-used in the next A/W season. In terms of the trend´s future, sustainability in fashion world has gained increased popularity and has become basically a driving trend. The reason behind this is that people are now aware of the impacts, that the industry has caused and are becoming more eco-conscious towards their decisions. Studies suggest that especially Millennial generation has the power to drive this shift in thinking by putting pressure on the fast-fashion corporations to start implement sustainability in their operations. From strategical point of view, it would not be a smart decisions by ignoring this, as it could risk the company´s public image and losing customers’ loyalty.
Ethics clause
I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.
Grigelova Nela
Signed ………………..…………..
25.5.2018
Date…………………….
List of illustrations Front Cover Arsboni.(2017).Fashion catwalk. [image] Available at: ttp://arsboni.hu/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/divat-01.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.1 WGSN.(2018). Sonia Rykiel Spring/Summer 2018. [image] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/storage/ vol23/ss_image_store/78/44/48/72/thumb_ryk_prs_ss18_132.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.2 How we get to NEXT. (2016). Colour palette forecast [image] Available at: https://cdn-images-1.medium. com/max/2000/1*YPYhdrWlcwUqEqOrYW2cTg.png [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018] Fig.3 JP Nicols. (n.d). Diffusion of Innovation [image] Available at: https://leaderonomics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/P06-07_2506_Image-2.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.4 Posner,H. (2015). Fashion Life Cycle, Laurence King Publishing, London, p.93 [photograph] Fig.5 Fashion School Daily.(2015). Fashion magazines[image] Available at: https://cdn-fashionschool.pressidium.com/wp-content/uploads//2015/10/Unknown.png [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.6 The Blonde Salad. (2015).Chiara Ferragni Vogue Espana April Issue [image] Available at: https://d1wl13ohcvociy.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/PORTADAVOGUE.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.7 The Wall Street Journal.(2012).Vivienne Westwood-Climate revolution [image] Available at: http://s.wsj. net/public/resources/images/OB-UP235_Westwo_D_20120916155512.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.8 Teen Vogue.(2017). The Impurest Feminism [image] Available at: https://assets.teenvogue.com/photos/58b714dcdf201c28535059a9/master/pass/dior-00.jpg#https://euroalter.com/2017/the-impurest-feminism [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.9 Vlamos,Y. (2018). Kaia Gerber at Moschino[image] Available at: https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod. s3.amazonaws.com/images/hbz-kaia-gerber-moschino-1519249467.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=768:* [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.10 New York Post. (2013). Jackie Kennedy pink suit [image] Available at: https://thenypost.files.wordpress. com/2013/11/jackiekennedy.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=1236&h=820&crop=1 [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.11 Vanity Fair.(2017). Fashion Week sloganeering [image] Available at:https://media.vanityfair.com/photos/58a4e6d3f19288649b1c92d8/master/w_1920,c_limit/t-fashion-week-2017-sloganeering.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.12 CHANEL. (2013) .Chanel Ready-to-Wear Fall-Winter 13/14[image] Available at https://pbs.twimg.com/ media/BElbegpCIAA35aQ.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.13 Birai, A. (2013). The Rana Plaza factory collapse [image] Available at: https://assets.weforum.org/editor/ AJlHCM2x5C0BDLKx08JbIRbPC_LAvP1Gvh2vvKVR28w.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.14 Zaman,M. (2013). The Rana Plaza factory protests [image] Available at: https://s3.r29static.com//bin/entry/a1a/740x505,80/1406605/image.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.15 Bangladesh Textile Today .(2016). Facts of fashion & environment [image] Available at: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/editorial-may-01.jpgm [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.16 City Cubes.(2016). H&M Conscious pop-up [image] Available at: https://www.citycubes.be/wp-content/ uploads/2016/04/12885709_1148308311870449_2344140453882914859_o.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.17 Grigelova,N. (2018). H&M Conscious [13th March 2018] Fig.18 McCartney,S. (2017). Stella McCartney Winter 2017 Ad Campaign [image] Available at:https://s1.r29static.com//bin/entry/d37/1248x808,80/1822473/image.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.19 Nickerson,J. (2013). FARM-This is not fashion project [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/fe/a8/7e/fea87e23d37ce29f976e04fa6f2695d5.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.20 Rummy Pages.(2018). Summer Fashion Trends [image] Available at: https://i0.wp.com/www.rummypages.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/best-summer-2017-fashion-trends-stylecaster-with-fashion-trends-summer.png [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.21 Style Caster.(2017).Fall Fashion Trends [image] Available at: https://cdn.skim.gs/image/upload/c_fit,f_auto,fl_lossy,h_590,q_auto,w_1263/wiuy5nbaglaqfdmco0wc [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.22 Elle (2016).Chanel Tweed [image] Available at: http://www.elle.vn/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/15/vaitweed-elle-vn-11.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018].
Fig.23 Esquire (n.d) King Edward VII of the United Kingdom at Sandringham Tweed [image] Available at: https://hips.hearstapps.com/esqnl.h-cdn.co/assets/17/18/640x723/gallery-1493735228-eddie.jpg?resize=640:* [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.24 Trends Vip .(n.d) [image] Coco Chanel in her studio Available at: http://trendsvip.com/wp-content/ uploads/2017/07/coco-chanel-sewing-2.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.25 Marie Claire (n.d) Marie-Helene Arnaud wearing Chanel, 1950s. [image] Available at: http://ksassets. timeincuk.net/wp/uploads/sites/46/2016/08/Untitled-33-3.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.26 Alaistar,N. (2016). Heritage Tweed [image] Available at: https://vg-images.condecdn.net/image/03AzaOObv6Q/crop/810/f/FullSizeRender_b.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.27 Green,B .(2018). Past Tweed Moodboard [image] [20th March 2018] Fig.28 Green,B .(2018). Today´s Tweed Moodboard [image] [20th March 2018] Fig.29 Roemer,D. (2014). Vogue Mexico Cover [image] Available at: http://cdn3-www.thefashionspot.com/ assets/uploads/2014/03/voguemexico-karolina-article.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.30 Aroch,G.(2011). Olivia Palermo Marie Claire UK Cover [image] Available at: http://3.bp.blogspot. com/-fsp50klLNno/TdYb6V3TM7I/AAAAAAAADBo/vxMYsM48vY4/s320/06728466a1f37b60_oliviapalermo_marieclaireuk_june2011_6.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.31 Birand, K. (2012). Harper's Bazaar Turkey January 2012 Cover [image] Available at: https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/candicecover1.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.32 Schiavone, C. (1952). Charm Cover - September 1952[image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/1c/91/68/1c91687cdafc998321ba9d0b9fb3a6f4.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.33 CondÊ Nast.(1950).Vogue cover August 1956 [image] Available at: https://i2.wp.com/www.rummypages.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/2332-best-1950s-fashion-images-on-pinterest-fashion-vintagefor-1950s-fashion-magazine.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.34 Alique . (2015). Gigi Hadid in tweed jacket on the cover of Vogue Nederland. [image] Available at: https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Gigi-Hadid-Vogue-Netherlands-November-2015-Cover-Photoshoot01.jpg [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Fig.35 Glamour (2018). Kate Middleton Wears Gucci Tweed Dress in London. [image] Available at: https:// www.glamour.com/story/kate-middleton-gucci-tweed-dress-in-london [Accessed 21 Mar. 2018]. Fig.36 Daily Mail, (2012), The Queen in Tweed (ONLINE) Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/debate/ article-2099632/How-Queen-fashion-style-icon.html [Accessed 21 Mar. 2018] Fig.37 Vogue Netherlands, (2014) Rihanna for Good Morning America, (ONLINE) Available at: https:// www.vogue.nl/fashion/style/gallery/rihanna-style-file/1-februari-2014-1 [Accessed 21 Mar. 2018] Fig.38 Daily Mail .(2017). Kendall Jenner opts for a sophisticated Chanel suit on Tonight Show. [Image] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-4225894/Kendall-Jenner-opts-Chanel-suit-Tonight-Show.html [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Fig.39 Monicarosestyle.Instagram post (2017) Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BQimpCcjTIU/?utm_source=ig_embed [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Fig.40 Price. (2017) Kendall Jenner Just Wore THE Jacket of The Season [Image] Available at:http://www. dorothyperkins.com/blog/kendall-jenner-chanel-jacket-lookalike/ [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Fig.41 Colourful Rebel.(2017). Peaky Blinders actors wearing a tweed [Image] Available at: http://blog. colourfulrebel.com/en/files/2017/11/cf832ad9935510d0fa8dd6970398061d6705973f.jpg [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Fig.42 Passion Ru.(2013). Burberry Prorsum at Milan Fashion Week [Image] Available at: https://www. passion.ru/thumb/860x0/filters:quality(75)//imgs/2017/05/13/16/925912/4c4ecbe4e7ed74ecf0985592ef6fc80354d96b96.jpg [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018].
Fig.43 Hutton,C.(2014).Benedict Cumberbatch in Belstaff Coat [Image] Available at: https://images. theconversation.com/files/62374/original/zjd3jxkw-1413890732.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&q=45&auto=format&w=237&fit=clip [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Fig.44 Por Homme.(2012). Ermenegildo Zegna Milan Fashion Week A/W 12 [Image] Available at: https://i0.wp.com/porhomme.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/ermenegildo-zegna-fall-winter-2012-mens-runway-milan-fashion-week-17.jpg?zoom=1.5&fit=500%2C752 [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Fig.45 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre ,Red/Blue Tweed Zara Jacket, Shop Safari Primary Research Images [13th March 2018] Fig.46 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre ,White River Island Tweed Jacket, Shop Safari Primary Research Images [13th March 2018] Fig.47 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre ,White River Island Tweed Skirt, Shop Safari Primary Re-search Images [13th March 2018] Fig.48 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre,River Island Tweed Trim Jeans,Shop Safari Primary Re-search Images [13th March 2018] Fig.49 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Multicolour Tweed Monsoon Jacket, Shop Safari Primary Research Images [13th March 2018] Fig.50 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Multicolour Tweed Zara Skirt, Shop Safari Primary Re-search Images [13th March 2018] Fig.51Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Grey Tweed River Island Jacket, Shop Safari Primary Re-search Images [13th March 2018] Fig.52 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Embroidered Tweed Zara Handbag, Shop Safari Primary Research Images [13th March 2018] Fig.53 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Zara Tweed Skirt, Shop Safari Primary Research Images [13th March 2018] Fig.54 Grigelova, N.(2018). Tweed Phooshoot Moodboard [image] [25th May 2018] Fig.55 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Photo Studio, Pre-Photoshoot [8th May 201 Fig.56 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Pre-Photoshoot Styling[8th May 2018] Fig.57 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Photoshoot Behind the Scenes[8th May 2018] Fig.58 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Millennial Tweed Photoshoot [8th May 2018] Fig.59 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Millennial Tweed Photoshoot [8th May 2018] Fig.60 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Millennial Tweed Photoshoot [8th May 2018]
Fig.61 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Millennial Tweed Photoshoot [8th May 2018]
Fig.62 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Millennial Tweed Photoshoot [8th May 2018]
Fig.63 Grigelova, N. (2018). Nottingham city centre, Millennial Tweed Photoshoot [8th May 2018] Fig.64 Lolita Abaram.(2017). Tweed Street Style [Image] Available at: http://cdn7.lolitaabrahamfashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Fashion-Jackson-IRO-Multicolored-Tweed-Jacket-Gucci-Marmont-Handbag.jpg Accessed [8th May 2018]
List of references BOOKS
Easey, M., 2009. Fashion Marketing. ed.: John Wiley & Sons. Howes, D. (2003). Cross-cultural consumption. 2nd ed. London: Routledge. Harriet, P.2015 Marketing Fashion, Second edition: Strategy, Branding and Promotion. Lau-rence King Publishing, London Kaiser, Susan. (1999). Identity, Postmodernity, and the Global Apparel Marketplace. In Meanings of Dress. New York: Fairchild.
JOURNALS
Anderson, F. (2006). This Sporting Cloth: Tweed, Gender and Fashion 1860–1900. Textile History, 37(2), pp.166186.
DISSERTATIONS:
Durmaz, L., (2014). The Role of Social Media in the Fashion Industry: How Fashion Blogging Encourages TwoWay Symmetrical Communication. Undergraduate. California Polytechnic State University.
WEBSITES
Amin, T. (2016). Environmental impact of fashion industry and shift of manufacturing bases. [online] Textile Today. Available at: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/environmental-impact-of-fashion-industry-and-shift-of-manufacturing-bases-2/ [Accessed 24 May 2018]. Armstrong, L. (2012). It’s elementary – let’s have Holmes’s coat. [online] Fashion.telegraph.co.uk. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9026030/Its-elementary-lets-have-Holmess-coat.html [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Chen, V. (2017). From Coco to Lagerfeld: the innovative evolution of Chanel’s tweed. [online] South China Morning Post. Available at: http://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/article/2108790/coco-lagerfeld-innovative-evolution-chanels-tweed [Accessed 18 Mar. 2018].
Cochrane, L. (2013). Why the Peaky Blinders look is the hot new thing in men's fashion. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/29/peaky-blinders-look-new-mens-fashion-tweedflat-cap [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Daily Mail. (2017). Kendall Jenner opts for a sophisticated Chanel suit on Tonight Show. [online] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-4225894/Kendall-Jenner-opts-Chanel-suit-Tonight-Show.html [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Investopedia. (n.d.). Product Life Cycle. [online] Available at: https://www.investopedia.com/terms/p/product-life-cycle.asp#ixzz5G43GTDIb [Accessed 24 May 2018]. Kasperkevic, J. (2016). Rana Plaza collapse: workplace dangers persist three years later, reports find. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/may/31/rana-plaza-bangladesh-collapse-fashion-working-conditions [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Harper's BAZAAR. (2017). Why Stella McCartney's latest campaign was shot in a Scottish landfill. [online] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a42842/stella-mccartney-landfill/ [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Kelsey white, (2012). Globalization and its impact on the Fashion Industry. [online] Available at: https:// whiteunt01.wordpress.com/2012/02/02/globalization-and-its-impact-on-the-fashion-industry/ [Accessed 8 Jun. 2015] Murek, D. (2010). Cultural Influences On Trend Forecasting. [Blog] Into the fashion. Available at: http://www. intothefashion.com/2010/01/cultural-influences-on-trend.html [Accessed 29 Apr. 2018]. O´Connor, C. (2017). Forbes Top Influencers: Instagram 'It' Girl Chiara Ferragni On Building A Fashion Empire. [online] Forbes.com. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/clareoconnor/2017/09/26/forbes-top-influencers-instagram-it-girl-chiara-ferragni-on-building-a-fashion-empire/#2ae40a273001 [Accessed 28 Apr. 2018]. Olenski, S. (2012). Are Brands Wielding More Influence In Social Media Than We Thought?. [online] Forbes. com. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/marketshare/2012/05/07/are-brands-wielding-more-influencein-social-media-than-we-thought/#8ba38c871e1b [Accessed 29 Apr. 2018]. Tareq, A. (2016). Environmental impact of fashion industry and shift of manufacturing bases. [online] Textile Today. Available at: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/environmental-impact-of-fashion-industry-and-shift-of-manufacturing-bases-2/ [Accessed 28 Apr. 2018]. Topping, A. (2016). Vogue editors accused of hypocrisy after declaring war on fashion bloggers. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/media/2016/sep/29/vogue-editors-declare-war-fashion-bloggers [Accessed 28 Apr. 2018]. Singh, D. (n.d.). Pink is out but Blue is in... Understanding Fashion & trend forecasting?. [online] Fibre2fashion. com. Available at: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3091/pink-is-out-but-blue-is-in-understanding-fashion-trend-forecasting [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Perry, P. (2018). The environmental costs of fast fashion. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www. independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/environment-costs-fast-fashion-pollution-waste-sustainability-a8139386. html [Accessed 29 Apr. 2018]. People, L. (2017). Why It's Normal That Stella McCartney's Latest Campaign Was Shot In A Landfill. [online] Refinery29. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/2017/07/164161/stella-mccartney-fall-2017-collection-sustainable [Accessed 29 Apr. 2018]. PrMoment. (2016). How politics influences consumers. [online] PRmoment Available at: https://www.prmoment.com/category/blog/how-politics-influences-consumers [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Sweeny, G. (2015). It's the Second Dirtiest Thing in the World—And You’re Wearing It. [online] Alternet. Available at: https://www.alternet.org/environment/its-second-dirtiest-thing-world-and-youre-wearing-it [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Verde Nieto, D. (2016) Predictions for the Luxury Industry: Sustainability and Innovation Report. [online] Available at: www.positiveluxury.com [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Wood, Z. (2017). The fashion world speaks out: ‘Without immigration, we’d be selling potato sacks’. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/oct/14/fashion-world-immigration-migrant-workers [Accessed 26 May 2018].
Bibliography BOOKS
Easey, M., 2009. Fashion Marketing. ed.: John Wiley & Sons. Howes, D. (2003). Cross-cultural consumption. 2nd ed. London: Routledge. Harriet, P.2015 Marketing Fashion, Second edition: Strategy, Branding and Promotion. Lau-rence King Publishing, London Kaiser, Susan. (1999). Identity, Postmodernity, and the Global Apparel Marketplace. In Meanings of Dress. New York: Fairchild. Dissertations: Durmaz, L., (2014). The Role of Social Media in the Fashion Industry: How Fashion Blogging Encourages TwoWay Symmetrical Communication. Undergraduate. California Polytechnic State University. Films The True Cost. (2015). [film] Directed by A. Morgan. UK / France/ India / China/ Bangladesh/ Cambodia / Haiti/ Denmark / Italy: Life Is My Movie Entertainment.
FILMS
The True Cost. (2015). [film] Directed by A. Morgan. UK / France/ India / China/ Bangladesh/ Cambodia / Haiti/ Denmark / Italy: Life Is My Movie Entertainment.
JOURNALS
Anderson, F. (2006). This Sporting Cloth: Tweed, Gender and Fashion 1860–1900. Textile History, 37(2), pp.166186.
WEBSITES
Alexander, E. (2018). 10 spring/summer 2018 fashion trends to start wearing now. [online] Harper's BAZAAR. Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/shows-trends/g38445/spring-summer-2018-fashiontrends/ [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Amin, T. (2016). Environmental impact of fashion industry and shift of manufacturing bases. [online] Textile Today. Available at: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/environmental-impact-of-fashion-industry-and-shift-of-manufacturing-bases-2/ [Accessed 24 May 2018]. Armstrong, L. (2012). It’s elementary – let’s have Holmes’s coat. [online] Fashion.telegraph.co.uk. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9026030/Its-elementary-lets-have-Holmess-coat.html [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Binkley, C. (2017). Fashion Week’s Anti-Trump Runway Politics. [online] The New Yorker. Available at: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/fashion-week-runway-politics [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Chen, V. (2017). From Coco to Lagerfeld: the innovative evolution of Chanel’s tweed. [online] South China Morning Post. Available at: http://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/article/2108790/coco-lagerfeld-innovative-evolution-chanels-tweed [Accessed 18 Mar. 2018]. Cochrane, L. (2013). Why the Peaky Blinders look is the hot new thing in men's fashion. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/29/peaky-blinders-look-new-mens-fashion-tweedflat-cap [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Daily Mail. (2017). Kendall Jenner opts for a sophisticated Chanel suit on Tonight Show. [online] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-4225894/Kendall-Jenner-opts-Chanel-suit-Tonight-Show.html [Accessed 20 Mar. 2018]. Dalton, R. (2017). What A Globalised Fashion Industry Means For Women And The World. [online] Wellmadeclothes.com. Available at: https://wellmadeclothes.com/articles/WhatAGlobalisedFashionIndustryMeansForWomen/ [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Duffle Coats UK. (2018). HARRIS TWEED IS BACK ON TOP. [online] Available at: https://www.dufflecoatsuk. co.uk/journal/harris-tweed-is-back-on-top/ [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Friedlader, R. (2014). How Coco Chanel Discovered Her Iconic Tweed. [online] ELLE. Available at: https://www. elle.com/fashion/news/a15402/the-story-of-chanels-tweed/ [Accessed 24 May 2018].
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Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/may/31/rana-plaza-bangladesh-collapse-fashion-working-conditions [Accessed 26 May 2018]. Kelsey white, (2012). Globalization and its impact on the Fashion Industry. [online] Available at: https:// whiteunt01.wordpress.com/2012/02/02/globalization-and-its-impact-on-the-fashion-industry/ [Accessed 8 Jun. 2015] Murek, D. (2010). Cultural Influences On Trend Forecasting. [Blog] Into the fashion. Available at: http://www. intothefashion.com/2010/01/cultural-influences-on-trend.html [Accessed 29 Apr. 2018]. Ndachengedzwa, S. and Stecca, E. (2016). The Fashion Industry and Its Impact on the Environment and Society. [online] Senseandsustainability.net. Available at: http://www.senseandsustainability.net/2016/03/02/the-fashionindustry-and-its-impact-on-the-environment-and-society/ [Accessed 26 May 2018]. O´Connor, C. (2017). Forbes Top Influencers: Instagram 'It' Girl Chiara Ferragni On Building A Fashion Empire. [online] Forbes.com. 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Appendix 1.