American Embassy Kinshasa Newsletter September 24, 2009
INSIDE Made in Congo Photo shoot Liyolo Bronze Passion
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CLO’s Line From GSO Travel Around Africa
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AERWA DPO What’s going on Classifieds Calendar
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Lamu Island, Kenya
Made in Congo Traditional masks Rich and long artistic traditions existed in the Congo prior to Belgian colonization. One of several elements that all had in common was the preeminence of human motifs. During colonization, two trends of popular art developed in two Congolese cities, Lubumbashi and Kinshasa. Life scenes and portraits of authority figures prevail in both trends. Some of the best known Congolese artist traditions are Kongo, Kuba, Luba, Hemba, Yaka and Mangbetu.
Suku mask
Artistic productions featuring ancestor figures have been found in all parts of the Congo. Statues occupy preponderant place among ancestor’s representations. Spirits other than the ancestors inhabited some statues with human figures and the spirits were invoked for protection or divination. In some productions, the human motif, statues or human face, is not an art piece in its own right but a part of another art object.
Kuba mask
Rather than whole bodies, some arts portray human faces only. Human faces are found on a variety of Congolese artist productions, including stone bracelets, trumps, fly whisks, knife handles and combs. The art of making masks was practiced throughout the Congo, where masks were employed in a variety of functions: The Suku people make masks for circumcision ceremonies; the Holo produced dance masks, including multifunctional masks used in the exorcism of children. Multifunctional masks where also fund among the Yaka. The Pende were excellent mask producers. The Kuba people produced a type of mask employed in funerary and folk dances. The Luba of Katanga where known for being mask producers also and some of their masks belonged to secret societies. The Kumu people, who live in southeastern part of Kisangani, have a diviner’s mask made of painted wood, which they employed in initiation ceremonies and solemn divination sessions. They also used it at the death of an initiate. The Ngbaka of the Ubangi River had a type of mask that they wore in circumcision ceremonies. Their mask carried a scarification on the nose, a typical Ngbake ethnic mark. Some human figures on art objects were primarily decorative. The Mangbetu of Ituri and their Azande neighbors were prolific producers of decorative arts. Both groups produced many items with human faces or complete human figures with artificial elongated heads, symbols of beauty in their culture. These items include gourds, knives, harps, boxes, whips, pots, pipes and bells, among others.
Kumu mask
Azande mask
Ituri mask
Mangbetu mask
Pende mask
Luba mask
Ngbaka mask
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Made in Congo Modern painting
Tucked away in the Tate Modern is a new exhibition exploring life in Kinshasa, the capital and largest city of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Siba Matti went to explore how art, war and world politics collide in these vibrant paintings.
‘Little Kadogo’, a creation by Chéri Samba, depicts an innocent looking young boy wearing army issue attire with his hands raised in surrender. A third hand, holding a gun, appears from behind him, symbolizing the widespread enlisting of child soldiers, who make up a shocking 40% of the country’s armies and
Non comprendre (I Don't Understand). Cheik Ledy, 1962 - 1997. Courtesy of C.A.A.C. - The Pigozzi Collection, Geneva Photo: Maurice Aeschimann
Modern Popular art is most developed in Congo’s two leading cities: Kinshasa, the political, commercial and administrative capital, and Lubumbashi the mining center. Art in each center received an impetus from Europeans living in the Congo, who served as a patron, coach or academic tutor. Painting dominates modern popular art. Visual arts (painting and photography) in the two cities play three mayor roles: image making, historical narration and chronicling the present. In image making, the artist portrays individuals in an accouterment or in proximity of material possessions that confer them a more admired identity, such as looking prosperous or powerful. The artist who is involved in historical narration retells and reshapes past events to fit assumed or expressed expectations of the client. Chronicling art creates pictorial records of current events as perceived by ordinary people in the community. In portraying these roles, artists are not at all bound to rules of factual accuracy. They seem to understand their mission as readjusting the events to reflect popular understandings of them. The following is a brief overview of the characteristics of the mayor visual arts in Lubumbashi and Kinshasa over various periods in Congolese history. Scene portraying Patrice Lumumba as a national here are also includes. The political theme gets sidetracked as the artists begin to contemplate the commercial nature of the art world. In ‘I Don’t Understand’ by Cheik Ledy, the brother of Cheri Samba, the artist depicts himself in a moment of confusion within a modern gallery containing abstract works – suggesting distaste at the notion of art for art sake perhaps. By comparison, Chéri Chérin’s equally audacious creation, ‘Where is the World Going?’, reflects on moral beliefs about topical and taboo issues across the world, including AIDS, religious warfare, homosexuality, smoking cannabis, immigration, racism, cannibalism, naturism and even bestiality, to create a bold, dramatic canvas that allures and appalls the viewer simultaneously
_______________________________ Sources: Culture and customs of Congo By Tshilemalema Mukenge Culture 24 http://www.culture24.org.uk/history/war/art47518
Untitled. Moke, 1950 - 2001. Courtesy of C.A.A.C. The Pigozzi Collection, Geneva Photo: Maurice Aeschimann
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LIYOLO
Bronze Passion
Alfred Liyolo Sculptor
Friederike Liyolo Ceramist
Pictures by Nelson Arias-Marrtinez
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CLO’s Line I would like to make one thing very clear regarding the Congo Bongo – I am not nearly creative enough to come up with the formatting and design that you get to enjoy. All credit must go to Nelson AriasMartinez who was brought on board to assist the CLO with this sharing of information. So although I appreciate everyone taking the time to send an email or stop by my office telling me how great the new Congo Bongo is, I cannot take any credit for it. I did, however, forward on all of your comments to Nelson and I encourage you to give him more feedback on the new look of the Congo Bongo if you see him around.
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From GSO Travel Around Africa Accommodation Budget Travelers: In Lamu town, try the Pole Pole Guest House back from the waterfront. They have doubles, some with fans and nets, for KSh 300 (aprox. US$5.00) including breakfast. Another cheap hotel is the Lamu Guest House directly in back of the Lamu Museum. Doubles with fans and attached bedrooms run KSh 550-650 (aprox. US$8—10).
Lamu Island is a part of Kenya's Lamu Archipelago, and there is one town and three villages on the island. As Kenya's oldest living town, Lamu has retained all the charm and character built up over centuries. Children play in the narrow streets, Muslim men chat on street corners and women in their black buibui veils busy themselves through doorways. Most houses have a rooftop which is used as a patio - indicative of a society where 'hanging back' and 'catching the breeze' is important. Lamu is strictly Islamic, so be sensitive in the way you dress. The island is linked by ferry to Mokowe on the mainland and to Manda Island. There is no motorized transport on Lamu Island. The road to Lamu is rough and while there are buses, the journey is tedious. There have also been armed attacks on this road in the past, so make enquiries before heading off. Flying is the best way to reach this region of Kenya and there are affordable daily flights to Malindi. There are many places to stay in Lamu town and some nice resorts in Shela. Water is a huge problem in Lamu, so don’t expect water for more than a couple hours every morning if you’re staying in a lower-end hotel. If you’re planning on staying in Lamu for several days, tell the manager of your hotel before agreeing on a rate. Many places will cut you a deal if you’re staying for several days. Lamu is possible the hottest place on the Coast, and has more mosquitoes than about anywhere else except Malindi. Therefore, I recommend getting a room with a mosquito net and a fan. It will be worth you money.
Mid-Range: The Casuarina Rest House (#3123) is a good value. Doubles cost between Ksh 1000 to 1500 (aprox. US$15—20). More expensive, but quite nice is the Yumbe House (#33101) close to the Swahili House Museum. It’s a traditional house with a beautiful courtyard, and rooms have nets, fans and include breakfast. Depending on the season singles/ doubles/triples average about KSh 1000 (US$15)/1900 (US$27) /2750 (US$40). Top End: In Lamu town the best place is Petley’s Inn (#33378) next to the Lamu Museum. It has a swimming pool, bar, and a good rooftop restaurant. Standard rooms are KSh 2000 (US$28) /2750 (US$40 /3300 (US$48) for singles/ doubles/triples. There are also rooms facing the sea for about KSh 400 more. The Lamu Palace Hotel (#33272) is your second option. It offers singles/doubles/ triples for US$ 50/80/100, or about $15 cheaper in the low season. At Shela Beach, there are many top end resorts. The best by far is Peponi Hotel (#33421/3). Guests stay in cottages with verandas facing the channel between Lamu and Manda Islands. Bed and breakfast rates in standard rooms are US$ 130/170 for singles/ doubles, and in superior rooms US$ 150/200. For full board, add $20-30. Advanced booking is essential
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From GSO Thing to do on Lamu Island A guided tour is included in the entrance fee to the Fort and is recommended if you start feeling guilty of spending too many lazy days doing completely nothing. For short term visitors, the Fort offers hardly anything entertaining though. The Fort functions as a local Social Centre, with numerous rooms converted in study units and an extensive library. The Environmental Museum has exhibitions on space, local flora and fauna and so on that are definitely educating for those interested. For some, the best reason to buy the ticket is the roof offering great views on the Fort's surroundings, which include the Market and the endlessly fascinating Central Square.
Diamond beach Village Diamond beach is located on the beach front of Manda Island, facing Shela village, Lamu. It has 7 traditional style banda's (beach huts) all en-suite with flushing toilets, electricty from 6pm -10pm a front porch with swing beds, nets, towels, sheets etc provided. Diamond has a restaurant and bar open all day serving fantastic fresh seafood and other dishes. It is perfect for those wanting a beach holiday but it is also close to town. www.diamondbeachvillage.com; email info@diamondbeachvillage.com
Also there are some fine examples of traditional carved doors and occasional art exhibitions within its premises that are worth a look. But to be honest, for visitors, the Fort is at its best from the Central Square with original canons at the gate or from the freely accessible veranda overlooking the Square. In Lamu there is very little nightlife like the sort you might usually find whilst traveling. There are no pubs, bars or nightclubs. Alcohol is hard to come by. However on Friday nights there is a local disco which I believe is run by the police. There are a couple of possible locations - you can find out where it is by asking any of the young locals about it, they will be more than willing to help you out and in most cases, join you. The venues are partly open air so that if it rains you may be treated to a 'free shower from Allah' as one local happily told us as it started to rain. The local boys....especially the dhow captains and their friends love to dance and make friends with touristsespecially women. They are nice enough and its a great experience. Wear anything you like, but dress for dancing!!
Samaki House Sited overlooking the waterfront in the OldTown behind Lamu House Hotel. The property is a 300yr old Swahili Mansion which has been fully restored and can be rented in its entirity for a party of maximum 8 people and it is complete with staff and chef. The panel has a shaded courtyard garden and a small pool on one of the terraces. http://www.freewebs.com/lamu/, email connect2design@gmail.com
Fatuma’s Tower This is like staying at the elegant yet perfectly comfortable home of friends who possess great taste in art and life. A range of rooms, including a cottage; large groups easily accommodated. Fatuma’s Tower is the result of two decades of painstaking building and reconstruction by Gillies Turle, a former antiques dealer, and his wife Fiammetta. The result is the mise en scene of a classic European film, yet the atmosphere is unstudied -- as if that perfect ruined column just fell there. http:// www.lamutravel.com.
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