Gifted Gardener J U N E
INSIDE THIS ISSUE: Hydrangeas
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Tips To Reduce Potential Mosquito Breeding Sites In 8 Ornamental Pools & Landscape Fish Ponds Prevent Rose Diseases Water and Nutrition Fruit & Vegetable Mobile Processing Unit Training
Calendar of Events
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SUMMER INSECTS TAKE A TOLL
Harvesting Blueberries 4 & Blackberries When Thatch is a Problem
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Some of the most notorious insects are quietly going about their business of devouring your investment of outdoor beautification. I say quietly because they are in their lifecycle of being small but still very hungry. Bagworms are very tiny currently, only about a half inch long and well camouflaged. They typically begin feeding on evergreens of all kinds, but in particular on Arborvitae. Scouting now will save your tree and you grief later. Bt products are really good when they are small but something else will need to be used as they become larger. Scale insects are masters of camo and engage the plant flat against the stem or leaf and live most of their life under the protection of a armored shell. Scales of many different types attack many types of plants. Arborvitae are currently 1
being affected by Fletcher Scale. Spider mites are a normal summer time insect of many plants. Spider mites numbers explode when the weather turns dry and warm. A good hard spray of water from the hose can do a lot to control mite populations. Doing this weekly to susceptible plants is simple and affective. By the way Arborvitae are especially loved by spider mites. As we expected Japanese beetles are having a good year, many insecticides are affective on these pests but persistence from you will have to prevail to keep the damage to a minimum. I will caution you to also be certain what the insect is that you are seeing. You may not believe me but there are some really good insects. Insects that prey upon other insects are good for our efforts. Proper identification should be a priority before spraying haphazardously. Examples: Mud Daubers love spiders, Lace wing devour aphids, and Lady Bugs eat many things.
When you take soil test samples, keep in mind that a few ounces of soil are being tested to determine lime and fertilizer needs for what may be several thousand pounds of soil in the lawn or garden area. It is absolutely necessary to take care to assure that the soil sample you send to the laboratory accurately represents the area sampled. Soil samples can be collected through much of the year, although fall (September to December) or spring (February to April) are the best times. Fall sampling will often result in a faster return of results and recommendations. Perennial Flowers— Sample the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. Don’t take samples too close to foundations, sidewalks, driveways or limestone graveled areas, unless these are treated as separate “problem areas”.
Hydrangeas grace the landscape with beautiful flowers in the spring and summer. The most colorful hydrangeas are bigleaf hydrangeas, Hydrangea macrophylla. Their flowers are usually either pink or blue. Flower color depends on the pH of the soil, a measure of soil acidity. Soil pH can be raised by applying lime. Some hydrangeas will respond to a higher pH (between 6.0 and 6.5) with pink flower color. To lower pH, apply aluminum sulfate. A lower pH (between 5.0 and 5.0) often results in blue flower color. A soil test will determine the existing pH and you can change your soil with the appropriate amendment to get the resulting flower color you want.
There are two flower forms of bigleaf hydrangea - mophead and lacecap. Mophead types make a full, large, round ball of sepals. The showy parts of the flower are the sepals, which surround the flower bud. The lacecap type has flower buds surrounded by showy sepals along the outside edge of the flower head. The inside of the flower head has buds but lacks the showy sepals. The type of flower head a plant produces depends on the cultivar.
Most bigleaf hydrangeas bloom on previous season’s growth. Part of last year’s growth may be injured by cold weather during winter. As buds begin to show green in the spring, you will be Hydrangeas grow best in able to determine how moist, well-drained soil and much wood is still living. partial shade. When The dead wood should planted in full sun in our be pruned out. Stems summer heat, they have a can be pruned lower as tendency to wilt. The north long as there are still side of a house or a some live buds below the location where the plant pruning cut. Flower buds receives afternoon shade are more sensitive to cold is best. temperatures than leaf 2
buds. Until your plant begins to flower, it will be hard to know if all the flower buds are living. Recently new cultivars called reblooming hydrangeas have been released with the advantage of blooming on old wood and new growth. Endless Summer® (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Bailmer’) (released in 1998) is a true re-blooming hydrangea. It has a mophead flower type up to 8 inches in diameter with pink or blue color, depending on pH. The plant is 3 to 4 feet tall. Another new hydrangea is ‘Lady in Red’. This cultivar has three seasons of color. The stems and leaf veins are red. In the fall, the foliage turns a reddish-purple. It’s lacecap flowers open pinkish white or bluish white, depending on pH. As they mature, they become deep burgundy rose. This plant is compact forming a 2
foot wide and 3 foot high mound. A popular cultivar for blue flowers is ‘Nikko Blue’. This plant grows 5 to 6 feet in height and spread. Although its mophead flowers will be blue in lower soil pH, they still become pink if pH is higher. ‘Blue Wave’, a lacecap flower type with lilac to pale blue sepals in low pH, also has sepal-less fertile dark blue flower buds in the center of the head. This plant reaches 4 to 6 feet tall and wide. Remember that most big leaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood. Pruning should be delayed until new growth appears in the spring. However, as we discovered this year, sometimes the worst injury can occur during a late frost in March or April. If your hydrangea doesn’t bloom, its sensitive flower buds were likely killed by cold temperatures.
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Harvesting in shallower containers are generally better: blueberries can handle being stacked fairly deep in buckets, but other berries, like blackberries and raspberries, are more delicate and shouldn’t be, so a large shallow container will give you more room to work with. Additionally, consider bringing not only a bucket, but also planning to wear a belt or bring rope so that you can tie the bucket to you so you can pick berries with both hands.
It’s almost summer, and that is prime harvest season for blueberries and blackberries, both of which have the potential to grow very well in Kentucky. Blueberries, which are native to North America, are ready to harvest from early June through early August. Blackberries are ready to harvest from mid-June to early October. These delicious fruits offer health benefits, but best of all, they capture the essence of summer in their sweetness. Blueberries can be excellent choices for both home and commercial growing. They have the advantage of being as long-lived as fruit trees, with few pests or diseases. They also have a late blossom time, so frost rarely causes damage on well-chosen sites. Blackberries also have a long fruit-bearing life and will produce for a 4
decade or longer in Kentucky. Blueberries require an acidic soil, which means that most soils in Kentucky will need to be amended to properly suit their needs. They also require a high organic material content, so peat moss should be mixed with the soil at the time of planting. Do not substitute with other materials. Irrigation is necessary during the summer because blueberries have a shallow, limited root system. Insufficient irrigation can compromise both this year’s and next year’s crops. Blackberries need to be pruned, fertilized and irrigated. Pruning varies, depending on the type of bramble; for specific information on the proper pruning for your blackberry canes, see the University of Kentucky’s publication, “Growing Blackberries and Raspberries in Kentucky.” It’s available online at http:// www.ca.uky.edu/agc/ pubs/ ho/ho15/ho15.pdf or by contacting your local office of the UK Cooperative Extension Service. Blueberries in a cluster do not ripen at the same time, and
Honey Blueberry Quinoa
only fully ripe berries should be picked. Fruit need at least one to two days after turning blue to develop full flavor and can be left on the bush for up to 10 days without a loss in size. Flavor does not improve once the fruit is picked; consequently, blueberries should be left on the bush for as long as possible to develop sweetness and flavor. For best results at harvest, pick carefully, rolling blueberries from the cluster with the thumb into the palm of the hand. Handle as little as possible to avoid rubbing off the bloom (the light waxy finish on the skin) and reduce bruising. Harvest only when berries are dry. Refrigerate promptly to slow ripening and decay. Blackberries picked for commercial sale are picked “firm ripe,� but home growers have the luxury of picking soft, fully ripe and juicy fruit. Pick fruit twice a week, and during hot, rainy weeks, every other day. Harvest after the morning dew has dried. Pick carefully to avoid bruising the fruit, and, as with blueberries, refrigerate quickly to limit fruit rot. The sweetest, best tasting fruit is produced during dry, sunny weather when nights are cooler.
INGREDIENTS
1 cup milk 1/2 cup quinoa 1/2 cup blueberries 1 tbsp. honey Zest of 1 lemon DIRECTIONS
Bring the milk to a simmer in a small saucepan and add the quinoa, blueberries, and honey. Cook until most of the liquid is absorbed and quinoa is soft, but still chewy. Add the lemon zest and additional honey, if desired.
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To determine if your lawn has an excessive amount of thatch, you can look at, feel and even measure the thatch layer. What you’re looking for is a thatch layer that’s thicker than 1/2 to 3/4 inch, which usually means it’s time to dethatch. If the turf feels springy and spongy underfoot this could mean too much thatch. Measure the thatch layer by taking a core sample of your turf by opening a vertical slice of it with a shovel and measuring the thatch layer with a ruler.
In Kentucky, we often struggle with quality lawns for many reasons. Cool season grasses do not perform well with a hot summer and warm season grasses are not as pleasing during the cooler months when they are dormant. Good overall maintenance practices play a critical part in
our success. Aerifying and dethatching could be important to your specific lawn needs. Thatch is a tightly intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develop right at the soil surface. This layer develops when organic matter is produced more quickly 6
than it can break down. Most of the time, thatch build up is not a problem with low maintenance lawns and more of a problem with higher maintenance lawns. It is important to note that some thatch is important as it helps moderate soil temperature. Typically, we like to see less than ½ inch of thatch. Managing thatch build up is important. Earthworms help out with this process as they help break down the organic matter. The more earthworms present, the less problems you should have with thatch build up. Mechanical thatch removal is an option. Many local rental yards offer a “dethatcher” for rental. These machines have vertical blades that cut through the thatch layer bringing up the dead material to the surface. Often, depending on the amount of thatch
present, it will be necessary to cover your lawn in two or three directions to sufficiently remove thatch. Remember that cool season grasses such as fescue and KY bluegrass are stressed during the warm months, so dethatching should be performed in the spring or late fall.
Aerification is another option for controlling thatch with the added benefit of reducing compaction. This method involves removing cores 2-3 inches deep from the lawn. The cores are deposited on top of the grass and naturally break up over a week or two. Thatch reduction occurs because the extracted soil mixes with the dead organic matter speeding up the decomposition.
NO PLACE outside is safe when thunderstorms are in the area!! If you hear thunder, lightening is close enough to strike you. When you hear thunder immediately move to safe shelter: a substantial building with electricity or plumbing or an enclosed, metal-topped vehicle with windows up. Stay in safe shelter at least 30 minutes after you hear the last sound of thunder.
Indoor Lightning Safety
Stay off corded phones, computers and other electrical equipment that put you in direct contact with electricity. Avoid plumbing, including sinks, baths and faucets. Stay away from windows and doors, and stay off porches. Do not lie on concrete floors, and do not lean against concrete walls. Last Resort Outdoor Risk Reduction Tips If you are caught outside with no safe shelter anywhere nearby the following actions may reduce your risk: Immediately get off elevated areas such as hills, mountain ridges or peaks Never lie flat on the ground Never shelter under an isolated tree Never use a cliff or rocky overhang for shelter Immediately get out and away from ponds, lakes and other bodies of water Stay away from objects that conduct electricity (barbed wire fences, power lines, windmills, etc.) (Source: National Weather Service)
Core aerifiers are often available from local rental yards, but sometimes more difficult to find than a de-thatcher. Consider contracting this service with local lawn care companies. As with dethatching, aerifiying in two or three directions is preferred. Most aerifying equipment will allow several different size tines. Use the largest tine available; most often ¾” or 1” will be standard. De-thatching or aerifying your lawn is just one more practice that will increase the health of your lawn. Good fertility, mowing regularly and at the correct height, and keeping a sharp blade on your mower will also help. Following best practices with your lawn before the hot, dry summer will pay big dividends!
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If you have an ornamental pool or Most larvicides sold to landscape fish pond, homeowners contain you might be either the active wondering how to ingredient reduce mosquito methoprene or a toxin populations in these produced by the soil particular situations. bacterium Bacillus Ornamental pools and thuringiensis israelensis (Bti). landscape fish ponds Methoprene prevents are potential breeding adult emergence by sites, but they don’t disrupting the have to be. development of mosquito larvae. Bti toxin attacks the digestive tract. It is lethal only to mosquito wrigglers and the larvae of some aquatic gnats and black flies. Neither methoprene nor Bti toxin is harmful to fish, waterfowl, pets, or humans when used according to label directions
Below are some mosquito management tips for these pools and ponds. Some of these tips also apply to birdbaths. Check for mosquito larvae and pupae at least once a week so you’ll know if mosquitoes are thriving and you need to start control measures. Simply kneel down by the edge of the pool, pond or birdbath and carefully watch the water for the distinctive wiggling of larvae and tumbling pupae. They are most likely found in 8
warm, shallow areas. Since larvae and pupae must regularly come to the surface to breathe, just get comfortable and watch for a while. One mosquito management practice is to stock the pond with fish. Healthy, hungry topfeeding fish can help control mosquito larvae and pupae. Smaller goldfish or koi generally will eat larvae and pupae, especially if the fish are hungry. If you notice wiggling larvae, stop feeding fish for a few days to see if the immature mosquitoes disappear. Don’t over-feed your fish. Hungry fish make better mosquito predators. Also, by not over-feeding you won’t have leftover food to encourage algae growth. Manage aquatic plants to keep them from providing mosquito hiding places. Plants in contact with the water surface might shelter mosquito larvae from fish or other predators. Thin plants or remove some so fish can swim around and through this
vegetation. Avoid thin-leaved plants because they provide excellent shelter for larvae.
water. Finally, avoid contamination from fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides or muddy runoff. Fertilizers can cause rapid algae growth in the pond. Many pesticides and herbicides used for yard pests can be very toxic to fish. If the yard will be treated for pest control, cover the pond for protection, or don’t have that part of the yard treated.
Mosquito larvae generally do well in stagnant water because they feed on the microorganisms. So periodically remove organic matter such as leaves, fruit and dropped flowers or buds that have fallen into the water. Excessive organic matter can require more oxygen than the pond has available for decomposition. The bacteria that grow in this situation discolor water and give it a foul odor.
If you’re refilling or adding a large amount of water to the pond, consider whether the new water contains chlorine or chloramines. Contact a pet store that sells fish and nursery where you bought aquatic plants for advice on neutralizing these compounds. Generally, you can add small amounts of water, less than 10 percent of the volume, to your pond without a problem.
Another mosquito management practice is to trim surrounding landscape plants away from the water surface so they won’t provide a base for algae growth as well as shelter for larvae. Another reason to prune landscape shrubs or trees is that all ponds and pools need some sunlight. Pruning reduces shade cover, thus enabling some light to reach the 9
PREVENT ROSE DISEASES : Spectacular blooms and diverse types and varieties make roses a favorite of many Kentucky gardeners. However, warm, humid growing conditions create an ideal environment for serious problems each year with black spot and powdery mildew.
Encourage More Rose Blooms To ensure good rose blooms for the next cycle, we must now deadhead all spent blooms. It will take an average of 49 days for most roses to hit their next bloom cycle. Some roses will bloom sooner, and others will take longer to rebloom, sometimes up to 60 days for roses with many petals.
Gardeners can nip these fungal diseases in the bud by planting resistant or tolerant varieties and creating an unfavorable environment for disease development. It may be necessary to use fungicides throughout the summer, especially on susceptible varieties. Your local Cooperative Extension Service has materials on resistant and tolerant varieties. Nursery catalogues also publish this information. To reduce foliar diseases, try to avoid conditions where rose leaves remain wet for an extended period of 10
time. Do not wet foliage when watering plants and allow sufficient time for leaves to dry before nighttime. Prune out shading vegetation from overhanging trees and provide space between rose bushes to improve ventilation and sunlight penetration. Sanitation also is important for managing rose diseases. If you have not already removed and destroyed old leaves, winter-damaged canes and debris, do it as soon as possible. These items are a source of disease-causing organisms. Many fungicides are labeled to control rose diseases. Always check the label to be sure the product controls black spot and powdery mildew and read and follow application instructions. To maintain disease suppression, repeat fungicide applications at 10to 14-day intervals throughout the growing season. Black spot produces dark, circular spots with fringed borders on the top or bottom side of leaves.
Infected leaves often turn yellow and drop, reducing flower numbers and quality. White, powdery fungal growth is a sign of powdery mildew. It is easy to locate on such plant surfaces as leaves, stems and flower buds. Infected leaves may be small and deformed.
Two other important, but less common, foliar diseases of roses are downy
United States as a conservation plant and “living fence.� The disease also affects cultivated roses. Early symptoms are increased growth of shoots, which appear more succulent than normal and develop excessive thorns, and distorted, dwarfed leaves. The affected shoots are not winter hardy and produce few blooms. Rose plants eventually die. Early disease
mildew and rust. Downy mildew produces lesions that are an offcolor, later turning purplish brown. It leads to defoliation. Rust-colored spots on leaves and stems indicate the disease, rust. Severely infected leaves may shrivel and turn brown. Another summertime disease is rose rosette, which affects roses throughout Kentucky. It is not a fungal disease. This disease is spread by a microscopic mite. The primary host is multi-flora rose, a thorny plant native to the Orient and introduced into the
detection is essential to keep rose rosette from spreading. Remove and destroy any infected roses to keep the disease from healthy plants nearby. Carefully remove diseased plants to avoid scattering disease-carrying mites to other plants. Since multi-flora roses might be a disease reservoir, remove and destroy any located within one-eighth of a mile from the rose bed.
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WATER AND NUTRITION
Drinking enough water every day is good for overall health. As plain drinking water has zero calories, it can also help with managing body weight and reducing caloric intake when substituted for drinks with calories, like regular soda. Drinking water can prevent dehydration, a condition that can cause unclear thinking, result in mood change, cause your body to overheat, constipation, and kidney stones.
Getting enough water every day is important for your health. Healthy people meet their fluid needs (https:// www.cdc.gov/ nutrition/) by drinking when thirsty and drinking with meals. Most of your fluid needs are met through the water and beverages you drink. However, you can get some fluids through the foods that you eat. For example, broth soups and foods with high water content such as celery, tomatoes, or melons can contribute to fluid intake. Water helps your body:
Keep your temperature normal
Lubricate and cushion joints
Protect your spinal cord and other sensitive tissues
If you think you are not getting enough water, these tips may help:
Carry a water bottle for easy access when you are at work of running errands. Freeze some freezer safe water bottles. Take one with you for ice-cold water all day long. Choose water instead of sugarsweetened beverages. This can also help with weight management. Substituting water for one 20-ounce sugar sweetened soda will save you about 240 calories. For example, during the school day students should have access to drinking water (https:// www.cdc.gov/ healthyyouth/npao/ wateraccess.htm), giving them a healthy alternative to sugar-sweetened beverages.
Get rid of wastes through urination, perspiration, and bowel Choose water when movements eating out. Generally, you Your body needs more will save money and water when you are: reduce calories. In hot climates Add a wedge of lime or More physically active lemon to your water. This can help improve the taste Running a fever and help you drink more Having diarrhea or water than you usually do. vomiting Source: Center for Disease Control and Prevention
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The Bardstown Farmers Market The Farmers market is officially open for the season. Vendors will be present from 7:30 am until 12:30 pm on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday of each week until November. The best way to keep up with what is available at the market is to follow them on their Face Book page at Bardstown Farmers Market
QUICK TIP To remove ground-in garden soil on your hands, add a teaspoon of salt to the lather as you wash. A slice of lemon will clean berry stained fingers. (Source: Gardening with The Old Farmer’s Almanac)
CANNER LID TESTING May 2016. the National Center for Canning expressly issues a written warning against trying to do pressure canning in electric pressure cookers.
Before the canning season gets into full swing, we want to remind you that we can test your canner lid gauge. There is no fee for this service. Stop by the extension office with your canner lid and gauge any day Monday through Friday between 8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. We also have free canning, freezing and drying publications available
Neighborly Nutrition Join in the effort to combat hunger by growing healthy produce for the Bread For Life Foodbank. Fresh produce is missing from many peoples diets and with your kindness we can close that gap. Call me for more details.
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overlooked breeding sites for mosquitoes around homes. Remove any Tips for standing water limiting mosquito on flat roofs or around breeding sites around the home structures. Repair leaking 1. Dispose of old faucets and air tires, buckets, conditioners that aluminum cans, produce puddles plastic sheeting for several days. or other refuse 3. Change water that can hold in bird baths and water. Empty wading pools at accumulated water from trash least once a week and keep cans, boats, wheel barrows, swimming pools cleaned and pet dishes, and chlorinated. flower pot Ornamental bottoms. If pools can be possible, turn these items over aerated or stocked with when they are mosquito-eating not in use. fish. Aeration / 2. Clean debris water movement from rain gutters helps, because and unclog mosquitoes obstructed prefer quiet, non downspouts. -flowing water Clogged rain for egg-laying gutters are one and of the most development.
Calendar of Events
Third Tuesday of the Month: The Kentucky Home Extension Master Gardeners meet at 6:30 to share a meal, conduct business, and share information.
Third Thursday of the Month: Nelson county Beekeepers meet at 6:30 pm to share a meal and information.
Every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday of the week — The Bardstown Farmers Market is open for sales at 7:30 am until 12:30 pm and are located at 200 East Flaget.
Every Fourth Friday of the Month: Nelson County District Board Meeting at 12 noon
Robbie Smith County Extension Agent for Agriculture Phone: 502-348-9204 email: robsmith@uky.edu
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RETURN SERVICE REQUESTED
University of Kentucky Nelson County 317 South Third Street Bardstown, KY 40004
Cooperative Extension Service
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