Gifted Gardener M A R C H
INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
Lawn Care Simplified Yellow Nutsedge is a Troublesome Weed Eight reasons to test your soil The Luna Moth What is the difference between Cool Season & Warm Season Vegetables UK Research show Urban Gardens Aid in Pollinator Conservation 10 Common Plants to Avoid Calendar of Events
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GARDEN THOUGHTS For me Gardening is therapy and usually a time to be alone with my thoughts (and often 2 times the chickens are there as uninvited quests just waiting for fresh earth to explore) Spring is the 4 epitome of renewal and growth and there is nothing more satisfying than watching the 6 progress of a well tended garden.
in the area you need. After a couple of years of this it is unbelievable the number of macro organisms (earthworms) that are present in the soil just below the mulch. They enjoy processing the chippings and depositing them in the soil as organic matter an minerals. This single process, and there are hundreds of other 7 I have taken a bit organisms working of a different there as well, approach this increases the tilth, year and trying to take a organic matter content, water holding capacity, soil structure 8 longer view of the garden by installing more of the bones and so much more. Adding and soil health building organic matter is the only way components. As far as the alleviate the compaction and soil health is concerned I have the potential for compaction in begun to use simple tree our clay soils. Clay is not bad 10 chippings from a tree in and of itself, it has excellent trimming company that is nutrient holding capacity, about a year old. After the water holding capacity and year of sitting in a pile I then structure, but compaction can 12 re-chip it to become a less occur quickly ruining all the coarse material and then top good. Therefore, stay out of it when its wet, add organic 15 dress the beds. The benefit of whole tree chippings is that matter often, let the macro you get all the nutrients the organisms do the tillage work tree took up during its life and soil test every few years. and you then redeposit them 1
Lawn Care Simplified By Suzanne Stumbo, ANR Agent, Pike Co. Cooperative Extension Priorities for spring should be–#1 weed control, #2 mowing, #3 watering, #4 aerating, # 5 insect control, and #6 fertilizing.
Cool-season grasses kick into high growing gear in spring and fall. One fertilizer application per year, in the fall is recommended. This feeding fuels strong root development prior to the ground freezing, enhancing the food stores in grass roots. These food stores are responsible for a strong green-up in spring. Time the fall feeding so it’s done before grass discolors when cold weather arrives.
Spring is the perfect time for crabgrass and other weed controls. Please read instructions carefully on
weeds, it is especially critical that you apply when there is moisture on the plants for broad leaf control. Chemicals must stick to leaves to be effective. This is easiest to achieve by applying in early morning when there is a heavy coat of dew. If the
Southern Crabgrass, Digitaria ciliaris, James H. Miller & Ted Bodner, Southern Weed Science Society, Bugwood.org your choice of weed control. To legally use and lawn chemicals, you must follow all directions on the bag. The chemicals work at certain concentrations, so a little more only allows a chemical to run off desired treatment area & pollution occurs. For actively growing 2
grass is not wet, you have most likely wasted your time and money. For those weeds that you using a pre-emergent herbicide such as crabgrass control to prevent them from germinating, early spring is the perfect time to
apply. As a general rule of thumb when the forsythia blooms drop, it is the perfect time to apply preemergent herbicides to control crabgrass/etc. Mowing is critical to establishing an attractive lawn. As soon as some of the grass reaches a height of approximately 2 to 2.5 inches mow. If you have an adjustable height to your mower, the first time or two mowing in the spring, you should set the height to 1.5 to 2 inches. This will help remove winter burned leaves and get you started on a good healthy lawn. During summer and periods of drought, mowing height raises to 3-3.5 inches. Then during the fall, mowing heights lowered to 2.5. This prevents matting down & fungus problems. Remove no more than 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaf at any one time. Do not scalp the lawn with uneven mowing. The problem, with most people is that they mow every Saturday from spring until fall and do not consider the growth rate or weather. You have to mow when you have time. Just try to remember no more than 1/3 to 1/2 cut off at any time. Another item that most people overlook in mowing is failing to sharpen their mower blades. Sharpen your mower blades multiple times during the year. A raggedy appearance to the leaf blade is an indication that your
mower blades need sharpening. A rough appearance allows more surface to be exposed and the possibility of disease to appear. Watering will be a necessity only “occasionally�. When necessary, plan for once or twice a week with a deep watering several inches deep to encourage root growth. Aerating is something almost unheard of several years ago & not every lawn needs it. Most home lawns will benefit from it. It is the process of removing a small core at set intervals to aerate and allow for addition of organic matter, treatments, loosening soil, & minor renovations. Do when soil is moist and grass is actively growing. It works best in spring or fall for cool season grasses. For Kentucky, the most common insect problem is White Grubs. Do not worry about this until summer. Preventative controls should be used in June/early July. Curative controls should be used in Aug/early Sept. when grubs are causing damage. In spite of all the ads you see, spring is the wrong time of year to fertilize. Apply in the fall. Excessive Nitrogen fertilizer causes the plant to put on leaf or top growth. By adding fertilizer in the spring, you are condemning yourself to mowing, mowing, & more mowing. It causes so much top growth that the roots cannot support the plant during periods of heat and drought. 3
Yellow Nutsedge is a Troublesome Weed By Kelly Jackson Agent for Horticulture, Christian Co. Cooperative Extension Yellow nutsedge is very difficult to control and Be patient. sticks out like a sore Two to three thumb in well maintained years of control turf areas. It is not a using herbicides broadleaf weed or a will be needed to grassy weed, but a sedge, and requires specific reduce viable tubers in the soil. control measures. Herbicide Yellow nutsedge grows in applications will full sun and prefers moist injure growing areas of lawns. yellow nutsedge The leaves are light green plants and help to yellowish in color, wide prevent more (up to 1/2”) with a thick tubers from mid-vein and a very waxy forming, but covering. I find the easiest way to distinguish yellow herbicide applications will nutsedge from grasses is the triangular shape of not control the stem. Roll the stem of tubers that are viable in the soil the plant in your fingers; you should be able to feel but have not yet the three sides of the produced plants. triangle. Flowers of yellow nutsedge are a yellowishbrown color and look like a series of spikes.
Yellow nutsedge has a shallow root system that produces rhizomes and tubers. Rhizomes 4
(underground stems) allow the plant to spread over an area producing “daughter plants” and forming a mass of nutsedge. The nut-like tubers that also develop serve as underground storage organs (think bulb). Each tuber can produce a new plant. During a good growing season each plant can produce up to 7,000 tubers. Also, the flowers of yellow nutsedge can produce seed. When you introduce soil into your landscape either as topsoil or from containers of trees or perennials the tubers and seed are in the soil. In a lawn situation, a healthy, dense, vigorous stand of turf can compete with yellow nutsedge. This is achieved by mowing at the proper height, providing fertilizer in the right season and adjusting the pH as indicated by a soil test. When this is done correctly only a few weeds may be present, in which case, hand pulling will be the best way to eradicate this pest. When large patches of nutsedge are present, treatment with a post-emergence herbicide may
be the only option. Homeowners have three products available that will control yellow nutsedge in lawns. Look for new sedges in late spring/early summer and spray when they are discovered. Herbicides are most effective on young, actively growing plants. Products available for control include: 1. MSMA (methane arsonate) 2. Basagran T/O; Sedge Hammer (bentazon) 3. Manage (halosulfuon)
Other grasslike weeds—post-emerge herbicides
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Eight reasons to test your soil By: Frank Sikora, UK soil testing coordinator
They are not expensive. Each county office may charge a nominal fee to cover soil analysis costs. Nelson County charges $5.00 per sample.
Soil testing can tell you many things about your soil that can help you make informed decisions about fertilizer application, site selection for crops and so much more. It is an essential part of a successful agriculture or horticulture enterprise. Home gardens and lawns can also greatly benefit from soil testing.
maximize economic yields. Soil testing also reduces the chance of over applying and over purchasing fertilizers.
With the wet pattern Kentucky has been in over the past year, soil testing is paramount to having a quality hay supply for next winter.
It is easy. Taking samples doesn’t take a lot of time or skill, and your county agents can help you along the way.
There’s really no reason not to test your soil since your local office of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service makes it simple. So, let’s get to it. Why should you test your soil? Know the pH level of your soil. Soil experts will make different recommendations depending on the acidity or alkalinity of your soil and your intended use. Save time and money. Having the proper levels of soil nutrients will help 6
It’s good for the environment. Soil testing results in a more accurate application of fertilizers and that ultimately reduces runoff into waterways. They are not expensive. Each county office may charge a nominal fee to cover soil analysis costs.
Find out the fertility level of the soil. You gain knowledge about the soil condition and can make informed decisions about how to improve it. Follow soil changes over time. Follow how conditions like drought, prolonged wet periods and other weather scenarios affect the soil. Identify problem areas in your field or garden. You’ll need to take different samples for various land uses such as agricultural, fields, lawns, gardens, fruit trees, shrubs and flowers because they all have distinct fertility and pH requirements.
The Luna Moth By Kara Back Agent for Horticulture, Taylor Co. Cooperative Extension One of my favorite insects is the Luna Moth. One day last year I had the joy of seeing one on the brick of my home right beside my front door. It actually stayed there resting for a day or two, and then it was gone. Luna moths are usually a rare sight to see. They spend the majority of their time in forests, and are active at night adding to their elusiveness. Another aspect that adds to their elusiveness is their life cycle. The adult stage of a Luna Moth lasts for about a week. During this time they do not eat, because they do not have a proboscis (mouthpart).
cocoon while wrapping itself in leaves. When adults emerge from their pupa, they are strongly attracted to light sources. This may result in low populations in urban areas, due to the moths going to the lights instead of mating. If the female has mated, she will begin to lay eggs the next evening after, and continue for several nights. Luna moths have a lot of predators to watch out for. They are a host for parasitoids, and are a food source for bats, owls, etc. As caterpillars, they do have a defense. When threatened they will make a clicking sound to warn predators before they regurgitate distasteful fluids, which may cause predators to think twice. As adults their twisted tails may interfere with echolocation of bats.
Luna moths lay their eggs on broadleaf host plants such as walnuts, hickories, sumacs, sweet gum, and persimmons. They can be found within a large range in the United States. They are located as far north as Maine and North Dakota, and as far south as Florida and Texas. They have differing numbers of generations within this range. Here in Kentucky we usually have about two generations each year. The larva will feed for about a month, then create a
Without a doubt, the Luna Moth is one of the most beautiful members of the family Saturniidae. The next time you see one take a moment to admire it, because sadly you will not have much time to view its beauty. 7
What is the Difference between Cool Season and Warm Season Vegetables By Amanda Sears Horticulture Agent for Madison Co. Cooperative Extension
A garden plan helps you grow the greatest amount of produce with the least amount of effort. Grow only those vegetables that your family will eat. A well planned and properly kept garden should produce 600 to 700 pounds of produce per 1000 square feet and may include many different crops. Your garden site should provide a sunny exposure, adequate moisture and fertile soil.
Cool season plants grow best with a relatively cool air temperature (50 to 60F). These plants are the first ones to be planted in the garden year and then again in the fall. They grow well during the short and cool days of spring and fall. They can be planted several weeks up to a couple of months before the last frost date (around May 10th). Plant cool season crops as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. If planted too late in spring, the heat of summer will reduce their quality. They may become bitter, have lower yields or bolt (form flowers and go to seed). Light frost will not injure them. Many cool season crops can be sown in early spring and again in fall. For fall planting, they must be planted early enough to reach maturity before winter weather, although there are a few winter hardy vegetables. Some of the best quality vegetables are produced during fall’s warm days and cool nights. Plants grown in the fall have a higher sugar content and better flavor.
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Examples of cool season vegetables include asparagus, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, chives, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Swiss chard, kale, leek, lettuce, onion, parsnips, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips. Warm season vegetables should be planted after the threat of frost of has passed. These plants require warm soils and air temperature for growth and fruiting. They grow best with long warm days and mild nights. The growing season in our area is too short to allow for some warm season crops to be directly seeded in the garden. For example, if you plant a tomato seed, it will take 60-80 days to reach maturity depending on the variety. To be able to get tomatoes earlier in the season they are started indoors and then transplanted to the garden once the danger of frost has passed. Examples of warm season vegetables include beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers, zucchini and summer squash, pumpkin and winter squash, sweet potato and watermelon.
Asparagus Beans, bush, lima Beans, bush, snap Beets Broccoli Brussels sprouts
plants or Seeds per Foot 1 crown 6-8 seeds 8 seeds 10 seeds 1 transplant 1 trsplt per 2'
Distance Between: Plants When Thinned or Trans- Rows (in) planted 18 30 4-5 30 2-3 30 2-3 18 14-18 30 24 36
Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Collards Cucumbers Eggplant Garlic, cloves Horseradish Kale Leeks Lettuce, head Lettuce, leaf Muskmelons Okra Onions Parsnips Peas Peppers Potatoes Pumpkins Radishes, spring Rhubarb Southern pea Spinach Squash, summer Squash, winter Sweet corn Sweet potatoes Tomatoes Turnips (roots) Turnips (greens) Watermelons
1 transplant 15-20 seeds 1 transplant 8-10 seeds 4-5 seeds 1 transplant 1 clove 1 root 4-6 seeds 10-15 seeds 1 transplant 20-30 seeds 2-3 seeds 3 seeds 3-6 sets 12 seeds 15 seeds 1 transplant 1 seed piece 1-2 seeds 10-15 seeds 1 crown per 2' 3-4 seeds 6 seeds 2-3 seeds/hill 1-2 seeds 2 seeds 1 slip 1 trsplt per 2' 6-8 seeds 10-12 seeds 2-3 seeds in hill
9-18 2-3 16-18 2-4 24-36 18 6 18 8-12 3-4 12-18 1/2 24-36 12 4 2-3 no thin 14-18 10-12 4 ft 2-3 36 2-3 4-6 24 48 8-10 15 24 3-4 2-3 6-8 ft
Number of trans-
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30 18 30 24 30 30 12-18 30 24-30 20 20 8-12 60 30 12-18 18 30-48 30-36 36 8-12 ft 12 4-5 ft 30 12-18 48 6-8 ft 30 36 36 12-15 12-15 72
Planting Depth (in) 6-8 1-1 1/2 1-1 1/2 ¼-1/2
¼ ¼-1/2 1/2-1 1 1/2 2 ¼-1/2 1/2 ¼ ¼ 1/2-¾ 1 1-2 1/2-¾ 1 3-5 1 ¼
¼ 1 1 1-2
1/2 1/2 1
A recent study conducted by University of Kentucky Department of Entomology researchers found that monarch butterflies and various bee species quickly find and use milkweeds in small urban gardens. They showed that monarchs and bees have preferences for the type and size of the plants.
conservation in their own backyard,� said Adam Baker, UK graduate student in the College of the Agriculture, Food and Environment.
Since scientists began A recent study monitoring the eastern conducted migratory population of by University of monarchs in the 1990s, their numbers have declined by Kentucky more than 80 percent. Department of Monarch population decline Entomology has been attributed to the loss researchers found of milkweed that monarch host plants from the butterflies and primary various bee breeding species quickly grounds. find and use Habitat loss milkweeds in due to agriculture small urban and gardens. They urbanization showed that has also led monarchs and to a decline bees have in wild bees Monarch butterfly in a Lexington garden. preferences for and other Photo by Matt Barton, UK Ag pollinators. Communications. the type and size of the plants. “Our goal was to Baker and Daniel Potter, UK demonstrate to entomology professor, gardeners and examined ways milkweed, homeowners that they which is the monarch’s only can participate in food source, can be meaningful pollinator successfully reincorporated 10
into urban gardens. The study looked at the egg laying and feeding preferences of monarchs and visits by bees on eight milkweed species in small gardens located at The Arboretum and other areas throughout Lexington during 2016 and 2017.
milkweed species ability to be incorporated into a small garden as some plants tend to spread from their original boundaries. Species that tend to stay where they are planted include swamp milkweed, butterflyweed and spider milkweed. These would work well when space is limited. Species including common milkweed, showy milkweed, narrowleaf milkweed and whorled milkweed tend to spread and are better suited for larger plantings.
“To our knowledge, this is the first study that compares monarch colonization and performance on different milkweed species in a common garden,� Potter said. The UK researchers found monarch eggs and larvae on all eight milkweed species during both growing seasons. Monarch caterpillars were found on the plants just two weeks after the seedlings had been transplanted. All eight species also supported larval survival and development. Monarchs were more attracted to the taller milkweed species with broad leaves, which include swamp milkweed, common milkweed and showy milkweed. Common and showy milkweeds had the highest numbers of monarch eggs. Six of the eight milkweeds produced enough flowers to attract bees. Butterflyweed and narrowleaf milkweed were the most attractive to bees. Researchers also found bees on common milkweed, whorled milkweed and swamp milkweed. Showy milkweed attracted smaller numbers of bees. Butterflyweed, whorled milkweed and narrowleaf milkweed had the most bee diversity. UK researchers also studied each 11
10 Common Plants to Avoid (and some alternatives) in Kentucky By Dan Stever Plant selection is never an easy choice. There's the old adage of "right plant, right place." But what criteria make a plant the right choice? Often plants are chosen based upon how pretty they are, which is why the same plants in flower sell faster than when they are not in flower. But the prettiness of a plant is not a good measure of its long term performance in the landscape. Many of the most common landscape plants have serious problems, and they should be used with caution or avoided all together
The plant should also be the proper size for the location, adapted to the amount of sun exposure, tolerant of the soil conditions, and adapted to the climate conditions. Additional criteria to ensure the right plant choice is to consider pest and disease resistance. Many of the most common landscape plants have serious problems, and they should be used with caution or avoided all together. Here is a list of 10 problematic trees and shrubs commonly found in Kentucky landscapes along 12
with better alternatives. Trees: Ornamental pear - These invasive trees are still available at many retail centers. Aside from the invasive problem, the flowers smell bad, the branches easily break in wind and ice storms, and they get fire blight. Alternative - Serviceberry trees have attractive white blooms, edible fruit, and outstanding fall color. Ash - Once a common street tree in Lexington and Louisville, the emerald ash borer (EAB) has devastated their populations both in cities and in forests. The presence of the EAB means ash trees are no longer viable plants for our landscapes. Be wary of anyone still selling ash trees in Kentucky. Alternative - Kentucky yellowwood grows to a similar size as an ash tree, but it has large panicles of fragrant white flowers in the spring (see above). Leyland cypress - Fast
growing and elegant, these evergreen trees simply are not hardy in Kentucky zone 6 winters. They may survive for a few years, but eventually they will get zapped by a true zone 6 winter and either die or look bad enough they'll need to be removed.
which causes them to defoliate in the summer. Another disease, fire blight, also manifests during the heat of summer in the form of dead branches. Annual applications of fungicide can control apple scab, but fire blight has no cure.
Alternative - Thankfully plant breeders Alternative - "Green Giant" arborvitae is a have developed varieties of crabapples vigorous grower with a stronger upright that are resistant (not immune) to both habit and is perfectly winter hardy. Or use apple scab and fire blight. Resistant our beautiful native red cedars. varieties include Prairie Fire, Jewelberry, and Dolgo among others. Do your Trees to use with caution: research and make sure the crabapple you Purple-leafed redbuds - The flowers of purchase has resistance to both diseases. redbuds are true harbingers of spring. Pin oaks - These majestic trees struggle in There are many varieties of Redbuds, and the Bluegrass. They often suffer from the purple leafed varieties are very bacterial leaf scorch, which slowly kills popular. Their purple leaves make a them over a matter of years. Pin oaks can striking addition to any landscape, but survive if located in irrigated lawns or wet these trees are highly susceptible to a areas. Due to the prevalence of the type of fungal wilt that has no cure. It bacterial leaf scorch which has no cure, causes die-back in branches, attracts pin oaks are best avoided. secondary infections, and will eventually kill the trees. Properly locating purpleAlternative - Shumard oak is a strong leafed redbuds in well drained nonperformer with excellent fall color. irrigated sites will help in managing the Shrubs: disease. Often, trees come infected Dwarf Alberta spruce - This cute directly from the nursery. Look for evergreen is a mainstay of foundation malformed leaves which can be an indicator of serious problems (see below). plantings in many homes and businesses. Unfortunately, dwarf Alberta spruce is Alternative - The straight species greenattacked by spider mites more so than any leafed redbud, for whatever reason, is other plant. Spider mites are notoriously more resistant to the root rots than the difficult to control and require multiple purple leafed varieties. For a small tree treatments annually. The shrubs never with purple leaves, try the Purple Filbert quite recover and can also act as an which has the bonus of edible nuts. infection point for the rest of the Crabapples - In springtime, crabapples are landscape. glorious (see below). Come summertime, (Continued on page 14) they look ragged. Most crabapples are attacked by a disease called apple scab 13
(Continued from page 13)
Alternative - The dwarf hinoki cypress is an elegant slow growing plant.
Knockout Roses - For decades, no flowering shrub has been more popular. But a recent virus, called Rose Rosette Disease, is spreading quickly. It deforms the plants and flowers eventually leading to death. If a plant is found with this virus, it is best to remove and destroy the plant before the infection spreads.
Inkberry hollies - This would be the perfect native shrub, except that it is highly prone to root rot. Most every inkberry holly in Kentucky shows signs of infection, and they die a quick death. Late stages of decline show as large dead areas in the shrub (see above). Fungicides do not always work as some of the root rots have no cure. Alternative - Use another native holly, winterberry holly. It may not be evergreen, but it provides an awesome show of color all winter long. Shrubs to use with caution: Knockout Roses - For decades, no flowering shrub has been more popular. But a recent virus, called Rose Rosette Disease, is spreading quickly. It deforms the plants and flowers eventually leading to death. If a plant is found with this virus, it is best to remove and destroy the plant before the infection spreads. 14
Alternative - It is difficult to find a perfect replacement for Knockout Roses, but several hydrangeas come close. The oakleaf hydrangea "Ruby Slippers" or panicle hydrangea "Fire Light" are among several varieties with large blooms that fade to deep red.
Azaleas - A true classic landscape plant. Unfortunately, azaleas struggle in the Bluegrass. Our soils are not acidic enough for them to thrive and they suffer in our heavy clays with root rots, and the leaves are attacked by lacebugs. Azaleas can be grown successfully, but they require a lot of work, site prep, and diligence. Alternative - Another native spring bloomer, Fothergilla (see below) has fragrant white bottlebrush flowers and lovely fall color. Several varieties are available with blue foliage as well.
Calendar of Events
Third Tuesday of the Month: The Kentucky Home Extension Master Gardeners meet at 6:30 to share a meal, conduct business, and share information.
Third Thursday of the Month: Nelson county Beekeepers meet at 6:30 pm to share a meal and information.
Every Fourth Friday of the Month: Nelson County District Board Meeting at 12 noon
Blooming Bardstown Garden Tour June 8, 9-4 at the Nelson County Extension Office
Robbie Smith County Extension Agent for Agriculture Phone: 502-348-9204 email: robsmith@uky.edu
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University of Kentucky Nelson County 317 South Third Street Bardstown, KY 40004
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