H&M srb

MAGAZINE AUTUMN 2013

FRENCH CHIC new silhouettes Exclusive interview

isabel marant THE NEXT GUEST DESIGNER

An issue of glamour

PARIS Je t’aime GB5

Top

69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв.

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Blouse

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EDITOR’S NOTE AUTU M N

2013

W

e live in global times – and that means we often search worldwide looking for inspiration, new trends and fresh looks. But, this autumn, we have to say there’s only one city on our fashion radar: Paris, the original fashionista if ever there was one. As the home of the most important fashion week on the international calendar, it was the obvious choice when H&M decided to take its Autumn Collection 2013 to the catwalk (see our feature on page 32).

Our upcoming designer collaboration is ultra-Parisian, too. Isabel Marant has scored hit after hit among style-conscious girls all over the world with her sexy, cool, romantic and oh-so-French vibe. We met up with the opinionated and talented designer to talk about how self-confidence is key (page 22).

Parisian style is legendary, from bon chic, bon genre elegance to the cool rock uniform worn by the city’s young men. It’s little surprise then that the fashion editors of the French capital spawn thousands of images on social media each time they step out (we unlock their secret on page 26). In essence, style is about sticking to your guns – something that Parisians know well. It’s about finding those pieces that work for you, a kind of uniform to which you can add details and your own personal touch.

Want to know how to do it? See our story on page 78.

Katja Rahlwes

Paris is known for being the home of haute couture, but it’s on the French streets where you find true inspiration. We shot young models on go-sees (page 64), and an ultra-glam Bette Franke pulling off stunning looks all over the city (page 40). Then we rounded up some of the coolest French male creatives and shot them in outfits they styled themselves, hanging out in that French institution: the café.

There’s no denying it, Paris is as strong as ever. More chic, glamorous, trendy, and edgy than almost anywhere else – it really is a city and a style for everyone.

You just need to decide: which quartier do you like the most?

H&M Magazine editorial staff 5

Dress

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IN SELECTED STORES FROM 5TH SEPTEMBER 2013

CONTENTS AUTU M N

2013 22

56

64

40

5

9

EDITOR’S NOTE CONTRIBUTORS

30

32

H&M PUTS ON A SHOW

76

NEWS

22

the magical MARANT

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THE CITY OF GLAMOUR PARIS JE T’AIME

78

CHIC MYSTIQUE

64

82

GO-SEE

Never let me go WORDS Lou Stoppard

photos Daniel Rier a

WORDS KIKI GEORGIOU

your perfect wardrobe

WORDS Lou Stoppard 81

Le Café

IN THE PINK

words ana Kinsella

photos k atja R aHlwes styling gÉr aldine Saglio 56

SHAPE SHIFTING

words navaz batliwalla

WORDS robin Henry

words Lisa Dougan photos tyrone lebon

Katja Rahlwes, Daniel Riera, Scott Trindle, tyrone lebon

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words lisa dougan

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26

The Instagram effect

MY PARIS

Photos SCOTT TRINDLE Styling VÉRONIQUE DIDRY

published by H&M publishers ANNA TILLBERG PANTZAR, DONALD SCHNEIDER project manager CAROLINE HIRSCH creative director MICHAEL ELMENBECK art director JOHAN AVEDAL managing editors DANIEL BJÖRK, Madelaine Levy, SABRINA SHIM deputy art director MALIN PERSSON designers JULIA ZU KNYPHAUSEN BERG, CAROLIN THERSTAM, LINA WAHLGREN production manager EMMA JÄGER art buyers CHARLOTTE GUSTAFSSON, LENA ÖSTLUND fashion coordinator JESSICA BJURSTRÖM print supervisor ULF KJELLIN typesetting TAG repro MODS GRAPHIC STUDIO contributors MARIA AHLGREN, NAVAZ BATLIWALLA, LISA DOUGAN, KIKI GEORGIOU, ROBIN HENRY, MAGGIE KIM, ANA KINSELLA, BEN PERDUE, LOU STOPPARD printing SANDY ALEXANDER, USA, ROTOLITO, ITALY, ALMAZ PRESS, RUSSIA, TOPPAN LEEFUNG PRINTING, SHANGHAI

H&M does not necessarily share the views of the magazine’s contributors. H&M Magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts and pictures. Quoting the contents of this magazine is permitted as long as the source is clearly stated. The clothes shown in this issue will be available this autumn. For more information about the merchandise, contact your local H&M store or get in touch with us via hm.com. All prices are correct at time of going to press, but may be subject to change without notice. Prices and stock availability may vary locally.

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Jumper

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CONTRIBUTORS AUTU M N

2013

Here are some of the fabulous contributors who helped to create this issue of H&M Magazine.

Véronique Didry

Géraldine Saglio For such a Paris-themed magazine, who better to have on board as a stylist than French Vogue fashion editor Géraldine, whose personal style is just as influential worldwide as her energetic editorial work? For this issue of H&M Magazine, she lent her magic touch to “The City of Glamour” (page 40), a monochrome take on that inimitable, effortless Parisian sense of style.

katja rahlwes

Starting off your styling career with French Vogue’s editor-inchief Emmanuelle Alt is one way to make a splash in the fashion world; becoming known for a signature chic and nuanced style is another.

Véronique is a favourite of magazines such as French Vogue, Russian Vogue and i-D, and brands such as Sportmax, Just Cavalli and H&M. In this issue, she styled the laidback looks in “Go-See” (page 64).

German-born Katja (right) moved to Paris when she was just 16. She started out as an illustrator and stylist, but soon found photography to be her true calling.

Her first assignments were for Purple magazine, and she now counts Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue Japan as regular clients. For her first outing in H&M Magazine, Katja teamed up with Dutch beauty and catwalk queen Bette Franke (left) in the glamorous “The City of Glamour” (page 40).

daniel riera

michael elmenbeck, johan avedal

Spanish-born Daniel (right) is a regular contributor to Italian GQ, German GQ, Hercules and Fantastic Man. With his fantastic eye for men’s style, he was the perfect candidate to shoot this issue’s “Le Café” (page 56), which features leading Paris-based creatives, such as fashion designer Frederik Adrian Hornof (left).

scott trindle Besides lending his striking photography to magazines such as British Vogue, American Vogue and i-D, London-based Scott (second left) has also created images for young designers such as Gareth Pugh and Yang Li. Shooting for H&M Magazine for the first time, Scott was tasked with capturing up-and-coming models in “Go-See” (page 64).

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Autumn allure Inspiration

Return to GLAMOUR

christian dior

“Raw elegance. Old-fashioned glamour.”

These were the words Miuccia Prada used to describe her collection for A/W 2013, after wet-haired models with clothes slightly askew had taken a cinematic turn on a catwalk rich in 1940s and 1950s silhouettes and references.

And she was not alone this season in seizing on the very straightforward idea of making beautiful clothes.

After a period of increasingly complex garments, fashion seems ready to embrace directness. Cue luxurious coats and slinky dresses, perfect little handbags and sparkly or shiny materials. Marc Jacobs’s New York presentation might have come with a melancholic slant, but the clothes were pure fashion magic. He repeated the trick at Louis Vuitton, adding a hotel corridor and a romantic yet decadent mood.

So why is fashion going back to beauty? It could be the influence of the new man at Christian Dior. Raf Simons has certainly been pushing an unashamedly chic ‘Here’s me and my Bar jacket’ look since he took up the reins at the venerable couture house, and other designers seem to have got the memo. Phoebe Philo abandoned last season’s surrealism and opted for a chicer style, while even an avant-garde designer such as Gareth Pugh has refined his aesthetic and is now able to make couture-inspired gowns out of bin liners. (Perhaps literally trying to prove that models can look good in anything, hardy-har…)

After the fun and crazy styling of the street-style stars, it feels right to move towards something that is just plain elegant and makes the wearer look, well, good. At least as an alternative, right? You might still want to lounge around in your trainers or sweatshirt, and that’s perfectly fine, but when it comes to dressing up this season, it’s time to go all-out chic on the world.

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paul smith

sibling

Art ATTACK

juun j

If you thought the catwalk looked more like a gallery this season, it was because art emerged as a major new influence for menswear. Sometimes, what with all the pop art patterns, cartoony graphics and Mondrianstyle colour-blocking on show, the clothes almost felt like canvases. “Of course, the majority of fashion designers trained at art school,” points out Oriole Cullen, a fashion and textiles curator at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. “So there is a long history of collaboration between the worlds of art and fashion.” Which explains the Juun J sweatshirts covered in hand-painted graffiti prints by Greg ‘Craola’ Simkins that you could hang on a wall, and Walter Van Beirendonck’s lurex collages, begging to be framed, but sparkling on tailored jackets instead.

“Sibling has a pop art aesthetic, or at least we think so,” says Cozette McCreery, one of the knitwear label’s three designers. “For us, it is about mixing humour and wearability.”

And that all-important element of fun came through in their performance art-like combinations of superhuman proportions and geometric patterns. Add these to the colourful Modernist-inspired squares on jumpers at Paul Smith and Kenzo, and you have all the inspiration necessary for the eccentric sweaters that underpin this trend. At Christopher Shannon, half-obscured cartoons on pullovers captured the crazy creative mood perfectly. “I wanted to work some of those manic-looking eyes into a garment, but still make it desirable,” he says, and even the toughest art critic would have to agree he succeeded.

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christopher shannon

jeremy scott

marc jacobs

kevin tachMAn, all over press, gorunway

walter van beirendonck

Trend

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Country Escape

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Rustic colours and easy cuts that normally evoke a country getaway instantly become city-fied when geometric prints, a boxy bag and a fuzzy gilet enter the frame.

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1 Coat 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв.

5.499 RSD 2 Scarf 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв. 1.699 RSD 3 Bag 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD 4 Hat 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв. 1.699 RSD 5 Vest 249 kn 129 LEI 69,90 лв.

3.999 RSD 6 Trousers 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD 7 Skirt 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD 8 Vest 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.199 RSD 9 Leather Boots 599 kn 299 LEI 179 лв.

8.999 RSD 10 Jumper 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD 11 Belt 39,90 kn 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

August Eriksson, styling Marina Kereklidou, StreetFSN

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moonrise kingdom drive

This season of shows was a particularly cinematic one. From noir feelings at Prada to the full-blown storytelling scenario at Louis Vuitton, a certain mood was in the air. But, with fashion constantly looking back 40, 50 or even 60 years for inspiration, don’t you wonder which movies from recent times will retain their flair in 2043?

Perhaps it could be Wong Kar-wai’s lush 2046 from 2004; a visual feast that takes viewers on a journey through time in Hong Kong from the late 1960s to 2046. The movie’s gorgeous women may be unlucky in love, but their wardrobes – embellished cheongsams, and sculptural, cut-out clothing representing the nottoo-distant future – are envy-inducing.

Another strong candidate is the fantastical world of Wes Anderson, instantly recognisable for its chic and quirky aesthetic. In Moonrise Kingdom (2012), Sam and Suzy are the fashionable heart of the movie: he in his retro khaki scout uniform and Davy Crockett hat; she in her Peter Pan collar dresses, knee-high socks and saddle shoes. Most probably a hipster favourite of tomorrow, in time.

Then there’s The Hunger Games.

Though the dress code in Katniss Everdeen’s District 12 lies somewhere between Pennsylvania Dutch and Little

House on the Prairie, in Capitol city it’s all about haute couture. Some of the fanciful creations come straight off the runway, such as Effie Trinket’s blooming red ruffles by Alexander McQueen and Katniss’s wedding gown

by Indonesian designer Tex Saverio (IRL, Lady Gaga’s a fan).

Is Ryan Gosling the Steve McQueen of tomorrow? (That is, a style icon whom every man will want to mimic.) In Drive (2011) he plays a man of few words, but with a style that speaks volumes.

From the white quilted satin bomber jacket with scorpion embroidery to the driving gloves, Drive’s slick take on classic American workwear paired with minimal yet luxe accessories can be characterised as ‘timeless badass’.

Perhaps most likely to achieve iconic fashion movie status is Luca Guadagnino’s I Am Love from 2009, which saw fashion icon Tilda Swinton teaming up with the sixth couturier of Christian Dior, Raf Simons (then at Jil Sander). With its impeccable Milanese aesthetic, lavish settings and stunning actors and actresses, surely I Am Love is the style masterpiece of this millennium?

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the hunger games

2046 Everett collection/IBL, Stella Pictures, Rex features/IBL

REEL Style

i am love

moonrise kingdom

INSPIRATION

bAZAAR

Clockwise from top: Necklace not available in Romania and Bulgaria 99,90 kn 1.699 RSD, Bag 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Shoes 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв.

2.699 RSD, Bangles 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв.

599 RSD, Leather Gloves 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв.

3.199 RSD, Belt 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD

August Eriksson, styling: Marina Kereklidou

Good as GOLD

The combination of gold and black is oh so timeless, and yet looks fresh and glamorous. Simple designs benefit the most from this pairing, such as a structured handbag, slip-on loafers or leather gloves.

CL ASSIC EL EGA N C E

Plaids came oversized and printed at Tommy Hilfiger, then blown up in ultra-bright colours by Issey Miyake, on outerwear updated with a graphic twist. It wasn’t just the checks that were larger than life at Stella McCartney, but the coats they covered, too, and Céline referenced classic laundry bags – down to the taped seams – for simple skirts and funnelneck tops. They may be rooted in Scottish history, but the tartans blanketing autumn’s runway were far from traditional.

Vintage elegance is enjoying a comeback, and these sophisticated handbags make the perfect retrochic accessories. Not that you could call the ones at Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana or Bottega Veneta oldfashioned, exactly. Mixing classic boxy structures and luxuriouslooking leathers is one important update this season, but check out Marni and Mulberry for inspiration, too, and play with exaggerated proportions in cool ladylike colours.

céline

Pl a id PER FECTI O N

On the catwalk

bottega veneta

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DK NY

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N I G H T A N D DAY

Kevin Tachman, Gorunway

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Loa fer LOV E Our loafer crush reaches new heights, thanks to these chunky heeled slip-ons. The penny and tassel loafer were given an all-white makeover by Antonio Marras and Mulberry. Or you might prefer the heritage-inspired look at Jil Sander, with rich dark leathers, extended tongues and metal buckles.

Either way, you’ll be slipping into something highly stylish.

rochas

Designers explored their wild sides this season with exotic prints inspired by the animal kingdom. London’s hot ticket, Marques’Almeida, lived up to the buzz around their label with zebra jeans and tank tops, and we saw a surreal safari take on glam mirroring at Versace, where Donatella got her claws into acidyellow giraffe skin. But leopard print proved most versatile, pounced on by both DKNY and Moschino Cheap & Chic for 1990s knits and big-cat tuxedos.

marc jacobs

J u n g le FE V ER

antonio marr as

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Even if Kate Moss had never stepped onto the Louis Vuitton catwalk in a sheer nightgown, closely followed

by Marc Jacobs in his patterned PJs, the popularity of nightwear influences elsewhere would have backed up the importance of boudoir style this season. There were luxurious Missoni bathrobes, slips and negligees from Saint Laurent and Sonia Rykiel, then set after set of gorgeous silk pyjamas at Giles, Rochas and, of course, the Marc Jacobs label itself.

stella mcCARTNEY

Trend

Above: Jenna Lyons.

Below (left to right): Elena Perminova, Marlene Dietrich, Lou Doillon.

They’ve got names like Alexa and Lou, Jenna and Tilda. They’re movie stars and style icons, businesswomen and larger-than-life personalities, all with a common ground: a decidedly boyish sensibility when it comes to their femininity. These aren’t girlie girls or Park Avenue princesses, they’re tough chicks – outspoken, unafraid and bound to ruffle a few feathers as they march to their own (syncopated) drumbeat. Like trailblazers Patti Smith, Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel, today’s tomboys couldn’t care less about what they’re supposed to wear – or do. They’re just as likely to sport Converse trainers on the red carpet (Kristen Stewart) as they are a top hat with a trouser suit (Lou Doillon), or dungarees in every iteration: long, short, baggy, sexy (Alexa Chung).

J.Crew president and creative director Jenna Lyons probably best exemplified the insouciant attitude when she showed off a photo of her favourite pink nail polish adorning her son’s toes, shocking quite a few people and starting a media firestorm. It’s that no-apologies brazenness that designers such as Stella McCartney and Haider Ackermann featured in their A/W collections, pulling together luxurious fabrics in slouchy, oversized, borrowed-from-the-boys shapes. Dries Van Noten took the guy-girl mix one step further, showing a tailored shirt with an ostrich skirt over flannel trousers. Because who says you have to choose when it comes to the new androgyny?

all over press, gorunway, streetfsn, BULLS

haider ackermann

Tomboy SPIRIT

dries van noten

Left: Patti Smith. Above: Alexa Chung in the ultimate tomboy outfit – dungarees and Converse trainers.

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bazaar

Sporty SPICE

Inject a little sex appeal into the athletic look by pairing grey marl basics with a flirty skater skirt or a sheer-panelled bodysuit. Just don’t forget the fierce high-heeled ankle boots.

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August Eriksson, styling: Marina Kereklidou, StreetFSN

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1 T-Shirt 79,90 kn 49,90 LEI 19,90 лв. 1.499 RSD 2 Skirt 69,90 kn 49,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 999 RSD 3 Shoes 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв. 5.499 RSD 4 Bag 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

2.199 RSD 5 Necklace 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.199 RSD 6 Tracksuit Bottoms 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв. 1.699 RSD 7 Sports Crop Top 99,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.699 RSD 8 Jacket 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD 9 Belt 49,90 kn 24,90 LEI 12,90 лв. 799 RSD 10 Body 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв.

2.699 RSD

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H au te horror

beauty

Fashion seems a little haunted at the moment. Resembling grown-up Wednesday Addamses, Erdem’s models floated down the catwalk sporting full brows and razor-sharp, deep side-partings. Then consider the sheer mists of grey washing lids in a post-apocalyptic fog at Prada, Jonathan Saunders and Alexander Wang. At Ruffian, raven-black nails got a Victoriana twist, veiled in black tulle and with petite cameos pressed onto selected claws.

Femme FATALES

Pretty gritty The years that gave the world Nirvana and flannel shirts is still a major inspiration. But grunge has grown up, at least beauty-wise.

Smelling less of teen spirit and more of female empowerment, the brick and terracotta hues so popular in the 1990s are back. Rusty reds, found everywhere, from eyes at Altuzzara and Gucci to lips at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Bottega Veneta and Zac Posen, look polished and pretty this time around.

marni

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G l a zed ga ze This season, there’s a big move towards understated, fresh-faced beauty. Glossy textures reign over the lid landscape as, finally, formulas seem to understand how to act glossy without being sticky.

At Mary Katrantzou, sultry lids, complete with white eyeliner along the lower waterline, gave models a wide-eyed, pure look. Etro went down the Star Trek route, with sheer gunmetal grey applied from lashline to brow. Oh, did we not mention Marni? Think glazed peach and you get the picture.

marc by marc jacobs

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R ed a lert Bright red lips take on extreme textures this season, from ultra-matt to mirror-glass shine. And, after a stint out in the cold, lip gloss is back on the radar. At Marc by Marc Jacobs, make-up artist Dick Page painted Marilyn-red pouts to opaque, wet-look perfection against a bare face. The brave will turn to Holly Fulton for a look revolving around fluorescent lips with visible outline (and fake tooth gap!). More wearable, though, are the lips at Prada. Apply berry lipstick and wipe off again, leaving only a trace.

kevin tachman, gorunway

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We all love a hairstyle that appears crafted by expensive fingers but is all DIY. So let’s start twisting, turning and pinning, inspired by the low pony at Julien Macdonald, and Carolina Herrera’s victory rolls. At Valentino, long, simple side plaits were topped with Alice bands and lots of gloss spray. For Balmain, Sam McKnight did what any girl does on a sloppy day – tied unclean hair into a high ponytail and plaited the mess. Note ‘unclean’: for cool braiding, scruffy tresses are essential. Stock up on texturisers and scrunch like your life depended on it.

valentino

pr ada

T wisted sister

August Eriksson, styling: Marina Kereklidou

Clockwise from top: Make-up Bag not available in Croatia and Serbia 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв., Body Mist not available in Croatia and Serbia 16,90 LEI 7,90 лв., Nail Polish not available in Croatia and Serbia 16,90 LEI 7,90 лв., Lipstick not available in Croatia and Serbia 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв., Eyeshadow Pen not available in Croatia, Romania and Serbia 7,90 лв., Foundation and Powder Brush not available in Croatia and Serbia 22,90 LEI 11,90 лв., Lip Pen not available in Croatia and Serbia 16,90 LEI 7,90 лв.

bAZAAR

beauty queen

Brighten up your beauty routine with our range of luscious pinks, radiant reds and perfect pastels. Throw all your favourites into a sweet, dotted make-up bag, put on a spritz or two of a heady scent, and you’re ready to face the day.

interview

For the RECORD

What were your favourite looks from this shoot?

I really loved the green blouse and trousers, the short blue jacket, the coat. Actually, I liked everything!

What are your favourite go-to outfits for autumn dressing?

Comfort is the most important thing to me, so I’m a big fan of jeans, cosy jumpers and sweatshirts.

Activism is very important to you – what’s your current focus?

I believe we’re all connected and that our health depends on the health of our planet. For the past few years, I’ve been working on different projects related to this particular cause.

Is living a green life important to you?

Yes. I believe it’s really important to understand the impact we all have on our environment and

I do my best to lead a conscious life. At our house we’re able to minimise our trash by composting, we use reusable bags. We have a garden that provides us with over 90 per cent of our fruits and vegetables, and we also have chickens for eggs. We have a water system that treats the waste water in the house so we can re-use it for our garden. And we have solar panels and light efficient bulbs.

What made you want to record a song for H&M? I thought it would be a fun experience. It’s not everyday someone invites you to record a song – I couldn’t pass that up!

Have you always enjoyed singing?

As a child I used to sing in the school choir. I love music – it makes me feel happy and free.

Finally, what does the word ‘supermodel’ mean to you?

I’m still trying to figure that one out!

Download Gisele’s song, recorded exclusively for H&M, at hm.com from 12 September.

menswear

heritage Collection

Menswear should be functional and stylish, right? That was the thinking behind this season’s Mauritz Archive Collection at H&M, inspired by our origins in menswear. Back in the 1960s, H&M’s founder Erling Persson bought a Stockholm store called Mauritz Widforss, which specialised in outdoors gear for the great outdoors. The store became Hennes & Mauritz, and the old stock was kept until it sold out. Fast-forward to today: menswear at H&M is going back to its roots, with designers raiding the archives to create a new, modern collection inspired by Mauritz Widforss.

Designer Petter Klusell looked to contemporary fabrics that retain an authentic feel. “For example, there’s a suit in a tweed from the Abraham Moon & Sons mill near Leeds,” he says. “A lot of guys like this kind of detail, and they’re interested in the story of these materials.” These suppliers have been around since the 19th century, and they know what they’re doing with fabric. By bringing them together with contemporary design, H&M is making them relevant for the 21st century, too.

The Mauritz Archive Collection will be available in select stores from 23 September.

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kevin tachman, Tristan Sheridan/Chamdin & Stöhr Film 2013

For the autumn campaign, H&M tapped the one and only Gisele as its star. Shot on the streets of London, we caught up with the Brazilian beauty to talk about fashion, going green and heading to the studio for H&M to record her very first song.

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Rhythm and BLUES

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bazaar

Inky indigos and faded denim look especially modern when combined with black. Just add a little sparkle to the mix and you won’t miss a beat this season.

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August Eriksson, styling: Marina Kereklidou, StreetFSN

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1 Leather Bag 599 kn 299 LEI 179 лв.

8.999 RSD 2 Bracelet 49,90 kn 29,90 LEI 12,90 лв. 799 RSD 3 Jeans 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD 4 Shoes 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD 5 Coat 499 kn 279 LEI 149 лв. 7.999 RSD 6 Denim Jacket 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв.

4.499 RSD 7 Hat 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.199 RSD 8 Sweatshirt 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD

the magical marant Meet Isabel Marant, aka the most fashionable designer in the world right now, and soon-to-be H&M collaborator. Ladies and gentlemen (yes, men! More on that later), mark those calendars now.

Words

Lisa Dougan |

photos

Tyrone lebon

“I realised that the best thing to do for H&M would be the pieces that I love the most”

O

bsessive. It’s the only word to describe women’s relationships with the Isabel Marant pieces in their wardrobes. And it’s perfectly understandable.

Isabel Marant – the label and the designer – encapsulates more and more how women of all ages, nationalities and professions really want to look, and live, today. Perhaps it’s because her collections send out the message that you don’t have to be dressed up all the time in order to feel good about yourself or be fashionable. Instead, her signature cropped jeans, hip-hugging miniskirts, quilted jackets, boyfriend coats and, of course, wedge trainers all signal relaxed style. On top of that, she adds a dash of rock ’n’ roll, American sportswear or global traveller, grounds it all with a few masculine elements, et voilà – that’s the Isabel Marant formula. It’s a recipe that has created many wardrobe classics, won her label cult status, and makes sure the waiting lists at the stores grow longer every season.

Since launching in 1994, Isabel Marant has gone from cult Parisian designer to international heavyweight, influencing big design houses and the high street alike. And this year she is H&M’s guest designer, which means not only women but also (for the first time ever) men and teens all over the globe will be able to – literally – get a piece of Marant’s chic, low-key and oh-so Parisian look.

Marant is known for a simple but nonminimalist aesthetic, which is all about a leggy silhouette, casual yet distinctively feminine clothes and that near-mythical insouciant French style. It’s a look Marant has been cultivating since she started making clothes at 16, and a favourite among fashion editors, a long list of celebrities (Kate Bosworth, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Beyoncé, Miranda Kerr and Alexa Chung are all fans) and countless bloggers.

What sets Marant apart from a lot of her peers is that she is her own muse. She dresses the way she designs, so you can sense there is a real person behind the label. There is also a certain self-confidence that shines through in Marant’s designs and the women who wear them. Which is no wonder, really – she has, step-by-step, built a wildly successful company from scratch. It’s testament to her strong vision and opinions that she remains fiercely independent to this day.

Across the street from the imposing façade of the Banque de France, near Place des Victoires in Paris’ first arrondissement, is a discreet, black doorway. Behind it are the Isabel Marant headquarters, a light, open-plan space that features both industrial iron columns and ornate cornicing. We are here to talk to the designer about her H&M collaboration, which launches in November. Marant enters the room clutching a cup of tea. She’s in cropped skinny jeans and a loose sweatshirt matched with leather clogs and socks.

There isn’t a trace of make-up on her face, and her greying hair is messily pulled back into a bun. She looks absolutely stunning.

She is very easy to talk to: warm, friendly, quick to laugh. Sharing everything from amusing childhood experiences to her philosophy on dressing comfortably, she draws you into her very personal, super-fashionable world. So, what will she do for the H&M collection? How will she tackle menswear? Is it true she’s been wearing wedged sneakers since her teens?

This is Isabel Marant in her own words.

Above: At her Paris headquarters, Isabel Marant looks over fabrics for the H&M collaboration.

SNEAK PREVIEW OF THE H&M COLLABORATION

What’s the main idea behind the H&M collaboration?

“The concept was both tough and easy to figure out. At first, I wondered what I could do for H&M, because they’ve done a few collaborations that have looked really amazing.

I was kind of banging my head [against the wall] to find something really special. But then I realised that the best thing to do for H&M would be the pieces that I love the most.”

How did you choose which pieces to include?

“I picked out things I have in my own wardrobe that I’d never want to lose. They’re like my treasures, and I wanted to share them with H&M. They’re from various collections over the past few years, so to make the collection

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Above: An exclusive preview of some of the accessories in the “Isabel Marant pour H&M” collection.

“I’m quite natural and spontaneous as a person.

And I try to make my designs the way I am”

EVERYBODY LOVES MARANT

Left: Miranda Kerr in a covetable Isabel Marant coat. Above: Nicole Richie in a pair of iconic Marant jeans.

cohesive we’ve used a few key archive prints throughout.”

What do you hope to achieve with the H&M collaboration?

“H&M is very democratic and quite realistic in terms of what people really wear. In the same way, I’m not into fantasy. I think more about being true to the lives we lead today.

So with H&M, I want to share my style and my vision with a wide range of people.”

This project has seen you doing menswear for the first time…

“Yes! It was fun to figure out how to translate my women’s to menswear. I must say, I’m not very fond of men that look too fashionable. In terms of pieces, I knew exactly what I could do, but then to make it look nice and real for men was not as easy as I had thought in the beginning.”

Are you going to continue with menswear?

“I always thought I would be able to do

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a few pieces that are connected with my womenswear, but to do fashion shows and all that for menswear, I don’t have enough time.

I’m involved in all my creations, and now that there are pre-collections on top of the show lines, it’s never-ending. So, no, I don’t want to get into starting a full collection for men.

Which makes this collaboration like a gift to H&M and the men that like Isabel Marant!”

How would you describe the essence of your label?

“It’s a lot about mix and match. I try to do collections of ‘everyday life’ garments that are stylish and easy-to-wear. Then it’s more a question of how you put it together. There are many different ways you can style each piece; everything can be worn together, and you can get very different silhouettes.”

What’s your overall design process?

“I’ve always loved contrasts. If I’m going to do something very girlie, I always combine it with something masculine. If I’m doing something a bit ‘ethnic’, I will put it against something more contemporary. It’s always a balance between different ideas. I often use the example of being like a cook who’s improving a dish: a bit more salt, a twist of pepper, or I’ll add some tomatoes… But it’s always a new flavour each season.”

What made you want to become a fashion designer?

“I couldn’t find what I wanted to wear. Ever since I was a young girl, I’ve always been very precise about what I want and don’t want to wear. I never thought about being a fashion designer – I was just pleasing myself. But eventually I did discover fashion and then asked myself, ‘Maybe this is what I should do?’”

Is it true that the whole wedge sneakers thing started when you were younger, too?

“Yes, when I was eleven, I cut a piece of cork and put it on the heel of my [Adidas] Stan Smith trainers to look taller. It really does work!”

What else did you wear as a young girl?

“It was much more crazy than what I wear today [laughs]. When you’re young you can do much more. I was really into music. When I was listening to Cat Stevens and Patti Smith, I had a hippie look. Then it was reggae and I had a Rasta look. And then I got into grunge…

As a kid you change your mind every six months. You can play around and have a lot of fun being somebody else.”

all over press, bulls

Left: Sienna Miller in a body-con Isabel Marant dress. Below: Cheryl Cole in a Marant top.

stella pictures, all over press, Style StreetStalker

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THE LOOK, THE HITS, THE WAITING LISTS

isabel mar ant A / W 2012

‘Don’t make things you wouldn’t wear yourself.’ It’s become one of my mantras.”

Do you believe in wearing a uniform?

“Kind of. I’ve got the tight trousers and sweatshirt, and then it’s more about a jacket or pair of shoes to elevate my look a bit… But when I’m in the office I take off whatever I’m wearing to try out new garments. So it almost doesn’t matter what I wear or how I dress in the morning.”

You try everything on yourself?

“Yes, I need to feel the clothes. I have to try them on to say if I would wear it or not. Or, if I would wear it, to say it’s not perfect yet. I need to have the feeling, that’s the first step, and then I try it on a fit model, because I can’t see my back, and it’s not very easy to pin yourself!” [laughs] Would you say you are driven by instinct?

“I’m quite natural and spontaneous as a person. And I try to make my designs the way I am. It’s more about having certain feelings for certain things at certain moments. I’m not a very intellectual person. I just grab those different feelings and try to tell myself a story for each collection.”

You’ve built your company by yourself and remain independent today. What does that mean to you?

“Freedom. I don’t have anybody telling me what I should do. I wouldn’t at all appreciate somebody telling me, ‘You have to do five skirts like this, and in this length.’ I mean, I feel I’m not doing a ‘product’. There is heart and soul in the designs, which means my collections are never perfect, but those imperfections make the clothes much more friendly, no [laughs]?”

Finally, what’s your style secret?

“Be inspired and play around with clothes, but keep your own personality. I feel sorry for people who want to look like someone in a magazine. You will always look better when you are yourself, and when you understand what fits you and what pleases you. For me, that’s the key to style.”

“Isabel Marant pour H&M” includes clothes, shoes and accessories for women, men and teens. The collection will be available in select stores around the world from 14 November.

Right: Tight, lowslung jeans with embroidery are a Marant signature.

Below: Backstage at the A/W 2013 show.

isabel mar ant A / W 2011

You often refer to your ‘three mothers’.

What kind of influence did they have on you?

“I think I got my artistic sense – a taste for craft and colour – and a certain ease and cool from my birth mother. She wore a lot of Kenzo and was a model, though when I was young I didn’t realise what she was doing. She stopped modelling when I was six or seven but, because there were a few shoots at my house, I do remember some things. It’s all inside you, even if you didn’t understand it at the time. My father’s second wife was this very Parisian and chic lady. She was always dressed from headto-toe in YSL and had this feminine, tailored attitude, which I hated and rebelled against.

But it still made me knowledgeable about that aesthetic, and it’s part of my culture. And then I had a nanny, whom I was with all the time. She was crazy, in a way, and would wear everything with everything. I think she gave me that taste for twisting things.”

Did you have any favourite designers growing up?

“It was the mid-1980s, so the biggest names were Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, Yves Saint Laurent. Then fashion from Japan arrived, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, but there was also Vivienne Westwood with Malcolm McLaren. At the time, I was rebelling against my parents, so when all these designers showed fashion that didn’t exist before, it was superexciting. The first designer item I ever bought was a skirt from Vivienne Westwood, and then a dress by Yohji Yamamoto.”

Do you still have them?

“Yes! I actually have a collection of pieces from Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Christian Lacroix, Maison Martin Margiela… Sometimes when I’m in a shop and I find something so gorgeous or extraordinary, but it’s not for me, I still buy it because it’s like a piece of art.”

So what do you like to wear on an everyday basis?

“Working with garments every day, it’s about not dressing up. It’s more about putting on the first thing on top of the pile in the morning.

I rarely have time to think about what to wear. But it’s quite interesting because I will instinctively take something and then think later, ‘Ah, this is not so bad’ [laughs].”

What are you always reaching for, then?

“I always start with a t-shirt. And most of the time I wear a sweatshirt. I’m moving towards more comfortable things in my everyday life.

That’s also why I’m designing more comfortable garments, because I’m more attracted to comfort than prettiness. Also, I usually wear trousers, because I hate wearing tights. As soon as the weather gets better I love wearing skirts and shorts.”

How much of what you wear is of your own design?

“I think around 99 per cent.”

Which makes sense, since your designs are very much tied to your personal style, right?

“Yes. In fashion school [Studio Berçot, the Paris fashion college], the director told us:

Left: A feminine and fun look from A/W 2012. Above: The wedge trainer that started a worldwide craze.

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estrop-barcelona, all over press, gorunway, stockholmstreetstyle, Hedvig Opshaug/ Northern Light, vanessa jackman, wayne tippetts, Maydele, scott schuman/jed root

ISABEL MAR ANT a / W 2011

BALMAIN a / W 2009

Chic

mystique

“T

hey were like gazelles in stilettos…” Tommy Ton, the photographer who helped create fashion’s new superstars, and establish street style as the cool little sister of fashion photography, is not talking about a group of hipper-than-thou models exiting a show, or socialites working it for the cameras. The gazelles in question are the French Vogue crew.

“I noticed them the very first time I went to Paris for fashion week. It wasn’t my style back then, but I took notice and was soon infatuated,” says Ton. “After several seasons observing Team French Vogue in action, I made them the focus of my photos and my blog, Jak & Jil, when it launched in September 2008.”

It’s not often that a new classic becomes established in fashion. Trends come and go; rarely does something stick around for more than a season or two. But the French Vogue look or, to be more broad, the ‘French editor’ look has emerged from the street style moshpit as coolly and nonchalantly as when it first entered it. And its high priestess (every cult has one), editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt, reigns supreme.

“Doesn’t everyone want to be Emmanuelle Alt?” says Angela Buttolph, Grazia’s editor-atlarge and long-time Alt fan. “I know I do. That cool but laidback style – so French!” Tommy Ton agrees. “I think everyone aspires to look like Emmanuelle or Géraldine Saglio.” Saglio is a stylist and Alt’s assistant, and the two can regularly be seen together, often accompanied by the magazine’s fashion and market editor Capucine Safyurtlu, in variations of the same look. “There’s an image I took of them that instantly comes to mind,” says Ton. “It’s Emmanuelle and Géraldine entering a show, shot from the side, and it’s just perfect how in sync they are, dressed almost identically and taking the same step.”

The only people better dressed than the models in French fashion magazines are the magazines’ editors. And, this season, the cool but laidback ‘French editor’ look is hotter than ever. Read on to learn the secrets to their ‘je ne sais quoi’.

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kiki georgiou

It’s not all about Vogue. For photographer Candice Lake, there’s another contender. “My favourite Frenchie is Virginie Mouzat, the Vanity Fair editor. She is chic personified. She is not afraid to say what she thinks, and always pushes the limit when it comes to what she wears. She is an inspiration all round for me.”

Style.com’s associate fashion editor, Brittany Adams, agrees. “Emmanuelle probably best embodies that aesthetic, though you could say that Carine Roitfeld pioneered the look. That said, my favourite of the bunch is definitely Virginie, because she’s more classic, paying no heed to trends. They all look effortlessly chic and natural, as though they woke up and threw something together in two minutes, then breezed out of the door.” Or, as Lake puts it, “It’s that undone ‘I just woke up and looked this good, I don’t need to use make-up/face wash/ hairbrush, I am completely content with who I am’ look, thus making French women seem impossibly cooler than everyone else!”

So, what’s the look? It’s so precise and unwavering, it’s really a uniform. Rule number one: keep it simple. “The colour palette is always white, black, navy and grey, and occasionally beige and khaki green. Everything is always

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tailored and fitted. There’s a certain masculinity to how it’s styled, and accessories are always sleek and sexy,” says Tommy Ton. Talking of masculinity, here’s rule number two: don’t be afraid to really borrow from the boys – and we mean really, not just the pretty, fitted, girlie version. Listing her essentials for Self Service magazine, Emmanuelle mentioned buying the small size of men’s t-shirts for a better fit. And that moves us along nicely to rule number three: mix low and high. The basics – the aforementioned tees, but also the main foundation of this look, the skinny jeans – can all come from the high street. You should be able to pick up good, reliable

“They all look effortlessly chic and natural, as though they woke up and threw something together in two minutes” basics anywhere in the world and mix them with both supercool contemporary pieces from high-end designers and alltime classics (vintage or new) from luxury labels.

Above all, whatever you do, follow rule number four, which is: do not look as though you’ve tried too hard.

“Appearing too polished or perfect is gauche,” affirms Style. com’s Brittany Adams. Being French obviously helps – just think of Lou Doillon and her equally cool big sis Charlotte Gainsbourg, then there are model Caroline de Maigret and actress Clémence Poésy, and the designers who helped create and inspire the look in the first place, such as Isabel

Marant and Vanessa Bruno, and pretty much every cool French girl who stops you in your tracks each time you’re in Paris. But fear not, others can dance this dance, too!

“I would love to have Phoebe Philo’s wardrobe, mixed in with Vanessa Traina’s,” says Elin Kling, the blogger and fashion director of Style by Kling, whose personal style is adored around the world. “I love how Phoebe pulls off everyday looks in a very luxurious way, and how Vanessa always adds a twist – it’s very young and fresh, but still confident.” For Candice Lake, Kling is someone who nails the French editor look herself. “Elin wears simple t-shirts and jeans teamed with a classic boot, a look that on others could be incredibly boring, but Elin always gets it right. So does Into the Gloss’s Emily Weiss. Both always seem to make simplicity work, with just a few pieces.”

If you want to go for ‘French editor’, what should be on your shopping list? First of all, a pair of skinny trousers: jeans, cords, leather, whatever your heart desires, as long as it’s slim. The loosest Alt ever gets in the trouser department is a flared pair of J Brand Love Story jeans or a cargo style.

“One season, I noticed her skinny jeans were actually navy cords and immediately ran out to get a pair,” says Angela Buttolph. “Her sharp jacket/skinny legs formula is now my fashion fallback. It never fails.” Candice Lake fell for the white jeans the entire French Vogue team were rocking last year. “I have certainly bought my fair share of them. I also seldom brush my hair, which I attribute not to laziness – contrary to my husband’s protests – but to being ‘French chic’, and I have been known to rock a Maison Michel hat.” You know who else likes a Maison Michel fedora?

Emmanuelle Alt, bien sûr!

You’ll rarely see any of them in a skirt or a dress, but when it happens it’s short, often leather, and sexy in a relaxed way. It’s all about showing off the legs and only the legs, and when yours look like Virginie Mouzat’s – well, you would, too. Next is a neat stack of simple scoop-neck t-shirts (don’t forget the strict colour palette) and a selection of soft shirts, always worn undone and only half tucked in. You are really too cool to tuck your shirt in properly.

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Tommy Ton/Trunk achive/Bulls, streetpeeper, all over press, gorunway, vanessa jackman, streetfsn

Left: Team French Vogue in matching monochrome at Paris Fashion Week.

Right: Emmanuelle Alt in much-coveted Isabel Marant boots. Below: Géraldine Saglio in flares and leather biker jacket.

ISABEL MAR ANT

Left: The French editor look of skinny jeans, black stilettos and casual top.

Right: Swede Elin Kling also pulls off the simple yet effortlessly chic look. Below: Carine Roitfeld is a gamechanger in the style stakes.

And so we come to the other key piece in a French editor’s wardrobe, perhaps the most crucial: the jacket.

“Well, let’s just say, no one can pull off a blazer like a Parisian woman. It’s quite something,” says Elin Kling, a self-confessed jacket addict. “In the same way some girls can be addicted to shoes, my drug is the jacket. I love good blazers, and I wish I had space for more!” So do Alt, Saglio, Mouzat and, frankly, every other fashion editor out there. Why? A jacket can change your entire look, instantly bringing it up to date and altering the mood. Your jeans and t-shirt can remain the same but designers play with the cut and line of a jacket all the time.

Remember Alt’s Balmain infatuation? Now that moment is over, she swaps the jacket (but not much else from her look) for a looser double-breasted blazer or an even wider men’s coat and, suddenly, she’s right for the season. “Emmanuelle looks classic,” says Buttolph. “But, like all great classic dressers, she’s really anything but. She is constantly updating her look with the very latest pieces of the moment, yet the silhouette and the vibe stay the same. It’s very inspiring.”

So, how to update the classics right now? Good news: the A/W 2013 collections were full of ideas. Virginie Mouzat told Style.com’s Tim Blanks the Céline and Hermès shows embodied “pure French chic”. “One of the major trends we noticed this season was menswear-inspired topcoats,” says Brittany Adams. “Emmanuelle Alt likes to cinch hers with a braided belt; a cool styling trick that I’d like to incorporate.”

Candice Lake has already adopted the look, making it work for her wardrobe, which, unlike the classic French editor’s, is full of colour. “I love bold shapes and bright colours, so I take small elements of French cool and incorporate it into my style. The belted oversized coat was something I did all winter, and I loved it, although I made sure the coat was bright.” For Elin Kling, new-season inspiration came courtesy of Céline, Stella McCartney and Dries Van Noten: “I’d love an off-the-shoulder top, a skirt that ends below the knee and a chequered pattern.” Dries features high on Brittany Adams’s shopping list, too. “You can’t go wrong with a crisp white shirt, and I loved how Dries

Van Noten paired them with feathered skirts for a masculine/ feminine mix. I can’t really picture Emmanuelle going for a feathered skirt, but a girl can dream!”

The menswear-inspired Prince of Wales checks and Savile Row fabrics, such as herringbone and tweed that dominated shows at Haider Ackermann, Rag & Bone, Stella McCartney and Louis Vuitton (albeit dipped in gold sequins) are just perfect. The new boot – there’s always one – has to be Emilio Pucci’s sexy suede over-the-knee, although we’ve spotted Alt working a kitten heel, too. As for accessories, they remain minimal: a classic Cartier watch, a stack of Repossi gold rings, the aforementioned fedora, and when it comes to bags, well, they’re simply non-existent!

It’s the effortlessness and ease the French editor look embodies that’s so captivating and, for women seeking an everyday look that actually works, so inspiring. Really, it’s an attitude. “It’s the perfect balance between accessible and unreachable,” says Angela Buttolph. “Most of all, it has offered girls a new way to dress for work: a look that treads the line between modern, cool casual, yet is NO still authoritative. It’s strong and sexy.” For Elin Kling, it’s the laidback quality that counts. “I take a lot of inspiration from French women, as I always try to have an effortless style.”

For Tommy Ton, too, it’s all about French insouciance, that is: “not caring but actually caring a bit! Imperfections and flaws help, and any resemblance to anything remotely ‘Hollywood red carpet’ is a big no!” “I hate to use the overused je ne sais quoi – but there is no equivalent of it in English, and there’s a reason for that,” says Brittany Adams.

And yes, ultimately the French editor look isn’t just about clothes. It’s a way of life. “That’s how I’d love to live my life,” says Candice Lake. “Just wake up, roll out of bed, put on my uniform, have a croissant and off I go!” Très cool, no?

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@prabalgurung

@mileycyrus

@ritaora

@badgalriri

@rosiehw

@mirandakerr

@caradelevingne

@alecambrosio

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prabal gurung, facehunter, stella pictures

INSTAGRAM effect

sass & bide

mary k atr antzou

Toaster

Gotham

Kelvin

CéLINE

match the filter to the collection

Sutro Inkwell

richard nicoll

gorunway, all over press

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hen the lights went up on Marc Jacobs’s A/W 2013 show they weren’t the tungsten glare the front rowers are used to. Instead, beneath a huge orb over the catwalk – a fashion sun, if you will – the looks were seen as if through a filter, one that fitted cleverly with the clothes they were wearing. With its sumptuous, gleaming satin and beautiful tailoring, this collection was all about decadent silver-screen glamour. And, similar to old-fashioned sepia, the lighting lent the clothes romantic violet, rust and ochre hues – like an old movie come to life.

Marc Jacobs can be counted on to nail a season. But he wasn’t alone in putting faded shades on show for autumn. After a few years of sunglasses-worthy brights and digital prints all over, it seems fashion is hankering after muted, analogue colours again. Blush pink, black and white were favourites at Paul Smith, Céline and Simone Rocha, while Mary Katrantzou – a pioneer in the digital print revolution – moved into prints that were more smudged than crisp, rendered in retro black and white.

The trend can, of course, be interpreted as nostalgia for an idyllic past. But we suspect it is actually something a little more contemporary.

Let us call it the Instagram effect. The social networking photo site that launched in 2010 has changed the way we view photos. With filters appealing to our arty side, it allows us all to turn everyday snaps into something special. There’s washed-out Earlybird, the saturated X-Pro II, or faded, green-tinted Nashville. Any devotee – and there are apparently 100 million of us – will know what this all means. As will the many fashion insiders among Instagram fans. Designer Rachel Roy, mega-stylist Nicola Formichetti and models Lara Stone and Karlie Kloss regularly post pictures – while Rihanna’s posts work like a mood board of what’s cool now. Instagram has become a must-click. And now, its aesthetic has made its way onto the catwalk.

Nashville

christopher k ane

Robin henry

simone rocha

paul smith Words

“There’s been a real vintage movie feel to collections, evoking that same ‘filtered’ look that Instagram has popularised,” says Lucie Greene, editor at LS:N Global, the trends forecasting agency. “It makes sense. Social networking is ubiquitous in society now, and Instagram has become part of our visual culture.” According to Greene, this is just the latest example of how technology affects our aesthetics. She points to “photographic prints at Giles, Proenza Schouler and Holly Fulton that evoke the visual scrapboarding of Pinterest or Tumblr,” as another example of the same movement.

Others think this is less about a digital influence, and more about designers spinning the colour wheel. Fatigued by the light and bright of recent seasons, they’re ready to move into something a bit more natural. Susie Lau, the blogger behind Style Bubble, is plugged into all things digital but sees Instagram’s look as only part of the story. “Yes, there’s nostalgia,” she says, “but nothing twee.” She believes the shift in colour palette has more to do with fashion’s cyclical effect: “There’s always that pull-and-push reaction from season to season, and certainly, even those who have been into prominent digital print, such as Mary Katrantzou, went for a more muted approach this time around,” she says.

With brights fading into the background, we also see a return to fewer and more classic colour choices. James Long created his entire collection in black, white and blue – in stark contrast to the artificial hot pinks and neon yellows he’s used before. For him, going back to basics is a reaction to how normal digital printing has become – suddenly, it is the classic colours previously dismissed as boring that look new again. “New ideas are happening,” he says. “Blue has a formal feeling to it. To make it casual and informal felt modern.” Susie Lau also points to a search for “the new normal”.

Whether the change is down to new technology via Instagram, a rewatch of old movies, or fashion’s constantly swaying pendulum, the fact that faded glamour is looking distinctly cool right now is no wonder, really. After all, these hues take us back to a time when photos didn’t have to replicate life with all its sharp corners but, instead, let us use our imagination, and left room for mystery and romance. So, how do we pick up on the trend? Super-easy, really. All we need to do is look back in time to find a reference. Then snap a few shots and pick a filter we really like.

And there we go: the influence for our new autumn wardrobe.

marc jacobs

Instagram is the must-click photo site with 100 million addicts. And, this season, its muted yesteryear colour palette has inspired a new fashion trend. Welcome to life through a lens.

Walden

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Lo-Fi

H&M puts on a Show

Celebs on the front row, a stellar collection and the hottest models in town: as H&M makes its Paris Fashion Week debut, we go behind the scenes to meet the designers who created the looks, the superstar team that put the show together and the approving editors who adorned the front row. It was a magical night to remember.

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ith showtime in less than 40 minutes, it’s remarkably calm backstage. The hair and make-up are all signed off. Final run-throughs have just been completed. Big-name models, such as Cara Delevingne, Lindsey Wixson, Joan Smalls and Isabeli Fontana, are posing (or in Cara’s case, mugging) for backstage photographers and videographers.

Superstylist George Cortina strolls past and inspects some of the pieces on the girls. With excited chatter and laughter filling the air, everyone seems to be totally at ease, and having a lot of fun. Not the kind of atmosphere you would normally expect before a high-profile show during Paris Fashion Week…

But then again, this is H&M staging a catwalk show. So expect the extraordinary. With its picture-perfect streets, buzzy but laidback ambience and so many impossibly chic people milling about, Paris is a special place already, any day of the year. And once Fashion Week

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kicks off, the glam factor reaches dizzying heights. So when it came to presenting H&M’s Autumn Collection 2013, the city of light seemed the ideal setting to unveil the special 25-look collection. It was also a symbolic decision. “We felt as though it was time to celebrate our own fashion and show our own designs,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s head of design.

“And what better city to do it in than Paris, one of the most important fashion cities in the world?”

As night fell on the second day of Paris Fashion Week, 600 carefully selected guests were ushered through the gates of the Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement. Flickering candles lit a path that led them past the beautiful 18th-century mansion of Hôtel Biron to a custom-built venue in the museum’s leafy grounds. Passing beneath a grand façade projected onto the front of the giant tent, the fashionistas, industry players and celebrities in attendance (not to mention the thousands worldwide who would watch the proceedings via livestream) were in for a treat.

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all over press

Instead of a run-of-the-mill catwalk, H&M created a magnificent set based on a lavish yet modern “dream apartment”, with more than 15 individual rooms, each decorated in a different style: a Moroccan lounge, a marble bathroom, a kids’ bedroom with an outer space theme, an art deco sitting room and a glossy kitchen. As they were shown to their seats (some of them plush couches and comfy-looking beds!), celebrities such as Emma Roberts, Chloë Moretz, Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe and Lizzie Jagger looked around with wide-eyed amazement at their surroundings.

Around the dining table – complete with silver place settings and crystal goblets – were Vogue’s Hamish Bowles, stylist Catherine Baba and French Vogue's Emmanuelle Alt, among other fashion insiders.

Nearby, Carine Roitfeld was sat next to Ashley Olsen on a loveseat, with Margareta van den Bosch, H&M’s creative advisor, perched in an armchair next to them.

The atmosphere was positively electric. “I’m so excited to be here right now. I think that H&M doing this show during Paris Fashion Week puts them in a whole new light,” said actress Chloë Moretz. Anticipation was certainly running high. And now that the mood had been set, it was time for the main event: the catwalk show.

As the models came through each of the rooms, the audience got a very first look at a collection that paired tailoring with glamour, the mix infused with a tomboy spirit. Think sturdy peacoats and capes with feather-light chiffon dresses, as well as fluffy mohair jumpers, floorskimming dresses and flared skirts worn with knee-high boots. Some of the pieces featured wonderful embroidery and appliqué. The colour palette was predominantly black and navy, with off-white, beige and a flaming red accent.

“We thought of a gang of girls hanging out and having fun,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, regarding the inspiration behind the designs.

“We wanted the collection to feel cool and effortless, just like those girls.” The show’s stylist, George Cortina (who also works for highprofile clients and publications including Vogue Japan, Calvin Klein and Armani) echoed this sentiment, “The look I created was about a cool girl you want to run into on the street.”

Amazingly, you’ll be able to get your hands on every piece from the runway show. As in: straight from the catwalk to your wardrobe, all at the accessible prices H&M is known for! If you want all-out glamour, look out for the open-backed sequin dress, and the embellished waistcoat that was teamed with a bell-sleeved blouse. If a statement-making coat

“We felt as though it was time to celebrate our own fashion and show our own designs.

And what better city to do it in than Paris, one of the most important fashion cities in the world?”

35

Top to bottom: the grand façade of the H&M show venue in the grounds of Musée Rodin; the show in action‚ models Andreea Diaconu and Vanessa Axente backstage; models Vincent Lacrocq and Frida Gustavsson after the show; a runway look on Chiharu Okunugi; one of the rooms inside the venue; the after-party with fashion insiders.

“We wanted fun, healthy, sexy and gorgeous girls for the show. And, while having a runway show full of superstars is fun, it’s important to support the next generation” Malgosia Bela and Daphne Groeneveld, were involved, along with a sprinkling of new faces.

“New faces are really important to balance a show,” said Brokaw.

“Having a runway show full of superstars is fun, but it’s important to support the next generation, such as Amanda Murphy. She’s the next big thing and, to me, the perfect H&M girl: smart, with an incredible face and killer legs. Sasha Luss has a great personality, and I knew she would turn it out on the runway. Then there’s Grace Mahary, who’s gorgeous, cool and can work a room, which is what we needed!”

And work it they all did. The models smiled broadly and openly flirted with cameras and audience as they sashayed through the various rooms.

If they looked particularly radiant, all credit is due to world-renowned hairstylist Orlando Pita and make-up artist Lisa Butler. The hair was ‘undone’ – natural, yet with plenty of bounce – and the make-up was sexy and chic. “For the show, I was inspired by three elements,” said Butler.

“The stylish, modern, classic collection, the diverse casting and the wonderful set.” Emphasis was placed on glowing skin: “I always start by cleaning and hydrating the skin,” said Butler. Then she gets to work on the eyes: “Give the lashes a good curl, this really helps the eyes look bigger.”

36

all over press

Top to bottom: the show was also livestreamed worldwide; a runway look on Liu Wen; models Ava Smith and Hugo Sauzay after the show; the art deco sitting room with guests; Lindsey Wixson backstage before the show; Daphne Groeneveld and Isabeli Fontana working the crowd; models Manon Leloup and Joséphine Le Tutour after the show.

is more your thing, you have plenty to choose from: a structured white jacket with asymmetrical zip, a cropped boxy coat with brass buttons, a white faux fur coat with contrasting details, and not one, but two feathery coats (one in black, another in blush pink). To literally top it all off, most of the looks were styled with really cute fishermen’s caps.

Overall, the show had a slightly 1970s feel. According to George Cortina, there was one specific inspiration he had in mind. “We revisited Françoise Hardy,” he said, referring to the chic but uncontrived style of the iconic French singer and It-girl. Then there were all the marvellous models. “We wanted fun, healthy, sexy and gorgeous girls for the show,” said casting director Ashley Brokaw. There were three models in particular Brokaw, the most influential casting director in fashion right now, knew she had to have: “Joan Smalls, for sure – icon, amazing runway presence and killer walk. Edita Vilkeviciute, because she is the perfect bombshell. And Liu Wen because she is the ideal combination of everything we wanted.” Other stellar names, such as Arizona Muse,

3 1

5 25

2 24

4

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THE GUESTS

23 22

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1. Lizzie Jagger and Joséphine de La Baume 2. Elena Perminova 3. Joan Smalls and Kyle Hagler 4. Leigh Lezark and Geordon Nicol 5. Roxane Mesquida 6. Catherine Baba 7. Carine Roitfeld and Ashley Olsen 8. Betony Vernon 9. Tallulah Harlech, Tali Lennox and Alexandra Carl 10. Pixie Geldof 11. Delphine Chanéac 12. Benn Northover 13. Isabelle Huppert 14. Anna Dello Russo 15. Melissa George 16. Giampaolo Sgura 17. Virginie Ledoyen 18. Ellen von Unwerth 19. Priscilla de Laforcade 20. Emmanuelle Seigner 21. Dolores Chaplin 22. Chloë Moretz 23. Léa Seydoux 24. Virginie and Jenna Courtin-Clarins 25. Caroline de Maigret

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9

20

17 13

15

10 19

11 12 16 14 18

all over press

“It was such a good show. I felt like I was in the H&M house, but it was also my house.

I had so much fun!”

Other tricks of the trade included using contour cream to exaggerate the eye socket, and under the cheekbone for a sculpted finish, plus using a cream-coloured kohl eye pencil on the lower waterline.

As the final looks snaked around the corner, the audience erupted into applause. The H&M design team took their well-deserved bows and, with that, the show came to an end. On seeing the designs realised on the catwalk, Ann-Sofie Johansson said: “It brought to life the spirit of the clothes, and showed how you can mix together different styles to create your own personal look.” “I loved the fashion show – it was so cool,” said actress Emma Roberts. Wearing a black transparent sequindetail dress, Cara Delevingne agreed. “It was such a good show. I felt like I was in the H&M house, but it was also my house. I had so much fun!”

The fun was actually far from over. Within minutes, the wall of the art deco sitting room slid away to reveal a ‘master suite’ – the spectacular location of the after-party. At centre stage was a giant fourposter bed on a platform, complete with flowing curtains. Oversized claw-foot bathtubs dominated another corner of the space. Strobe lights pulsated slowly as uniformed butlers and maids sprang into action offering guests drinks and nibbles. The models, still in their show clothes, returned from backstage to relax and party, and chat with guests, film crews and journalists.

Summing up the day’s events, it seemed everyone had a different favourite outfit. George Cortina was partial to the opening look on Joan Smalls. “The purity of a white blouse with a black cape and cap is perfect for a cool chick,” he said.

“I loved the look Daphne had on, with that long chiffon skirt and a heavy knitted cable jumper,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson. “I really like the combination of something delicate and heavy, and the super-long silhouette.” There were also excited conversations about the knee-high boots and fluffy coats.

As the night wore on, the French singer Owlle took to the stage to perform a few songs, captivating the crowd with her unique voice and ethereal melodies. To complete the celebration, David and Stephen Dewaele, also known as Belgian duo 2manyDJs, had everyone dancing and shouting with delight at their witty signature mash-ups. At one point, all the models gathered in front of the four-poster bed swaying to the beats and clapping. It was the kind of magical fashion moment that few will forget. But was it one to be repeated? Asked if H&M would be staging another show next season, Ann-Sofie Johansson only had this to say: “We like to surprise, so who knows!”

H&M’s Autumn Collection 2013 will be available in some 200 stores worldwide from 5 September.

Top to bottom: a runway look on Cara Delevingne; new face Grace Mahary; the show finale; the runway clothes hanging up; French singer Owlle performing at the after-party; model Tilda Lindstam backstage; models Vanessa Axente, Manon Leloup, Ava Smith and Yumi Lambert.

the city of glamour

PARIS Je t’aime

Photos

K atja R ahlwes |

Styling

GÉr aldine Saglio

Jumper 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Jacket 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв. 6.999 RSD, Leather Belt 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв. 1.699 RSD

Top 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Jacket 899 kn 499 LEI 249 лв.

13.999 RSD, Trousers 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв.

3.199 RSD

Men’s Shirt 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Coat 599 kn 299 LEI 179 лв.

8.999 RSD, Trousers 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв. 5.499 RSD, Socks 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 99,90 лв. 899 RSD, Shoes 249 kn 129 LEI 69,90 лв.

3.999 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

Blazer 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Trousers 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, 3-Pack Socks 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Shoes 249 kn 129 LEI 69,90 лв.

3.999 RSD, Hat 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв.

1.699 RSD

Jumper 599 kn 299 LEI 179 лв. 8.999 RSD, Tights 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.199 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

Jumper 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Leather Shorts 899 kn 499 LEI 249 лв.

13.999 RSD, Bracelet 49,90 kn 29,90 LEI 12,90 лв. 799 RSD

Dress 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, 3-Pack Socks 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Shoes 249 kn 129 LEI 69,90 лв.

3.999 RSD, Hat 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв.

899 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

Blouse 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Skirt not available in Croatia, Romania and Serbia 59,90 лв., Belt 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв.

1.699 RSD, Necklace 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD

Blouse 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Jumper 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Jacket 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв.

6.999 RSD, Jeans 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

1.699 RSD, Socks 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв.

899 RSD, Shoes 249 kn 129 LEI 69,90 лв.

3.999 RSD

Top 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Fringed Bib 599 kn 399 LEI 179 лв.

8.999 RSD

Blouse 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Blazer 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв.

4.499 RSD, Trousers 299 kn 159 LEI 59,90 лв.

3.199 RSD

Denim Shirt 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Blazer 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв.

4.499 RSD

Jumper 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Blazer 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв.

4.499 RSD, Leggings 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Belt 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Shoes 199 kn 129 LEI 79,90 лв.

3.199 RSD, Hat 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв.

1.699 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

Model Bette Franke Hair Seb Bascle Make-up Georgina Graham

Boyfriend Shirt not available in Croatia and Serbia 129 LEI 59,90 лв., Jeans 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 1.699 RSD, Shoes 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв.

3.199 RSD, Scarf 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

Top 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Skirt 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

2.199 RSD, Hat 149 kn 79,90 LEI 29,90 лв.

1.999 RSD, Necklace 249 kn 159 LEI 69,90 лв. 3.999 RSD

Le Café Photos

Daniel Rier a

Remi Desclaux Photographer

I wear the same style, no matter what the season – I’m more into broken-in jeans and a white t-shirt. And I really like American classics: chinos, chambray shirts, boots or Vans.

My favourite pieces, though, are jackets, especially flight jackets or leather jackets from the 1920s to 1960s.

Jumper 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Blazer 499 kn 279 LEI 149 лв. 7.999 RSD, Trousers not available in Croatia and Serbia 159 LEI 79,90 лв., Shoes not available in Serbia 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв.

Frederick Adrian Hornof Fashion designer

My personal style is about elegant menswear with a twist. I like to mix progressive, avant-garde pieces with the casual. A suit jacket cut in an interesting way with a rucksack and baseball cap, for example. For the autumn, I like wool and heavy coats, and often tone down my wardrobe with greys and blues.

T-Shirt 49,90 kn 19,90 LEI 12,90 лв. 799 RSD, Coat 899 kn 499 LEI 249 лв. 13.999 RSD, Trousers not available in Croatia and Serbia 199 LEI 99,90 лв., Shoes 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв. 6.999 RSD, Bag not available in Serbia 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв.

Jacques Shu Press consultant

When autumn hits, fabrics become warmer, colours less bright, but my style remains the same – effortless. I like to mix strong designer pieces, such as my Prince of Wales check suit by De Fursac, with basics. I think that’s the main idea behind a French man’s wardrobe: basic yet chic, and clean-cut.

Denim Shirt 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Tie not available in Croatia and Serbia 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв., Vest 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Trousers not available in Serbia 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

Dan Thawley

Editor-in-chief of A Magazine Curated By Being Australian, I’m used to dressing in t-shirts and shorts, but now I’m in Paris I need a different wardrobe. I need more layers, even though I still think I can go out in just t-shirts. I’m mostly monochrome, but I like to play with small pops of colour – maximal minimalism. And, I kind of dress like a dentist…

Rollneck not available in Croatia and Serbia 159 LEI 79,90 лв., Shirt 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Sweater not available in Serbia 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв., Shirt not available in Croatia and Serbia 199 LEI 99,90 лв., Trousers not available in Croatia and Serbia 199 LEI 79,90 лв., Shoes 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв. 6.999 RSD

Cyrille Caron

Owner and director of CCConseil My go-to piece is a pair of shoes with a triple sole. They were difficult to walk in at first, but now it’s easier. They look good with denim. The menswear trend in Paris right now is finding that balance between formal and casual. Like mixing suiting with items in technical fabrics. It’s very elegant, but sporty.

Jumper 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв. 5.499 RSD, Parka 699 kn 399 LEI 199 лв. 10.999 RSD, Jeans 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Shoes not available in Croatia and Serbia 159 LEI 79,90 лв., Hat not available in Serbia 39,90 kn 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв.

Seiji Govaers

Model scout and agent, Next Management I think Parisian men’s style is a mix, but it’s young and vibrant at heart. And it’s really important for clothes to look good and fit well. My own style is simple and casual, such as boots, jeans, t-shirts… And I love my leather jacket. I’ve had it for six years and I wear it almost every day.

T-Shirt not available in Croatia and Serbia 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв., Jacket not available in Serbia 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв., Jeans 249 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Leather Shoes 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв. 6.999 RSD

Donat Barrault

Director of women’s division, Nathalie Models My look is preppy and tailored, and I’m forever in a bow tie (I own about 30). I’ll wear anything with a collar, especially shirts. I’m very structured as a person, so I want to dress that way. Also, one item will always define the outfit of the day and I never wear more than three colours at a time.

Shirt 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Bow Tie 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.199 RSD, Jumper not available in Croatia and Serbia 159 LEI 79,90 лв., Bomber Jacket 399 kn 229 LEI 129 лв. 6.999 RSD Trousers not available in Croatia and Serbia 199 LEI 99,90 лв., Shoes 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Umbrella 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв. 1.699 RSD

Models Donat Barrault, Cyrille Caron, Remi Desclaux, Clément Douala, Seiji Govaers, Frederick Adrian Hornof, Jacques Shu, Dan Thawley Grooming Terry Saxon

Clément Douala Model and muse

I’m a bit of a dandy, but I try to be chill about it and mix in casual pieces or some African details.

I do have 15 pairs of the same black jeans – same cut, same brand. I like wearing black, but I’m trying to add more colours to my wardrobe. My absolute favourite item is a gold ring that looks like a crown.

Shirt not available in Serbia 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв., Bow Tie not available in Croatia and Serbia 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв., Jumper 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Parka not available in Croatia and Serbia 499 LEI 249 лв., Trousers not available in Serbia 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв., Hat 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 4,90 лв. 899 RSD

Monica cima France

T-Shirt 79,90 kn 49,90 LEI 19,90 лв. 1.499 RSD, Blazer 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв.

4.499 RSD, Jeans not available in Serbia 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв., Shoes 249 kn 129 LEI 69,90 лв. 3.999 RSD

GO

New models dart around Paris for the quick meet-and-greets known as the go-see, and they need to dress the part: casual and relaxed, but with the right confidence.

Photos

SCOTT TRINDLE |

Styling

VÉRONIQUE DIDRY

alena blohm Germany

Dress 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Jacket 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв.

5.499 RSD, Tights 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.199 RSD, Hat 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв.

1.199 RSD

SEE

natalia siodmiak Poland

Jumper 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв. 3.199 RSD, Jeans 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв.

5.499 RSD, Hat 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 59,90 лв. 899 RSD

jennifer koch Germany

Blouse 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв. 1.699 RSD, Jacket 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв.

4.499 RSD, Vest 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Leggings 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

2.199 RSD, Leather Shoes 599 kn 299 LEI 179 лв. 8.999 RSD, Hat 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв.

1.699 RSD, Necklace not available in Romania 99,90 kn 24,90 лв.

1.699 RSD, Bracelets 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Ring not available in Serbia 39,90 kn 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв., Ring not available in Serbia 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв.

sasha valarino United States

Jumper 149 kn 79,90 LEI 29,90 лв. 1.999 RSD, Jacket 199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв.

3.199 RSD, Trousers 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Shoes 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

2.199 RSD, Bracelet 49,90 kn 29,90 LEI 12,90 лв. 799 RSD, Ring not available in Serbia 39,90 kn 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв.

anne verhallen Holland

Top 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв.

1.199 RSD, Jacket 299 kn 159 LEI 79,90 лв. 4.499 RSD, Jumper 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

2.199 RSD, Trousers 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD, Hat 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв.

599 RSD

Senait gidey Canada

Models Alena Blohm, Monica Cima, Alexa Corlett, Senait Gidey, Jennifer Koch, Natalia Siodmiak, Sasha Valarino, Anne Verhallen Hair Olivier de Vriendt Make-up Adrien Pinault

Blouse 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Denim Waistcoat 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Jacket 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв.

5.499 RSD, Skirt 149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв. 2.199 RSD, Hat 99,90 kn 59,90 LEI 24,90 лв.

1.699 RSD, Socks 39,90 kn 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD

Alexa Corlett South Africa

Dress 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв.

5.499 RSD, Denim Waistcoat 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв.

2.199 RSD, Shoes 349 kn 199 LEI 99,90 лв. 5.499 RSD, Necklace 69,90 kn 39,90 LEI 17,90 лв. 1.199 RSD, Belt 39,90 kn 19,90 LEI 9,90 лв.

599 RSD, Bracelets 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв. 899 RSD, Ring 39,90 kn 22,90 LEI 9,90 лв. 599 RSD, Ring not available in Serbia 49,90 kn 29,90 LEI 12,90 лв., Ring not available in Serbia 69,90 kn 29,90 LEI 14,90 лв., Hat 149 kn 79,90 LEI 29,90 лв.

1.999 RSD, Bag 179 kn 99 LEI 44,90 лв. 2.699 RSD

gorunway

kenzo

Shape

shifting Fashion is discovering a new silhouette, and it’s got nothing to do with the bodycon look of the past few years. Instead, cocoon coats, boxy sweaters and skateboard-inspired culottes are stealing the show(s). Will structured volume be this decade’s defining shape?

Words

navaz batliwalla

T

hinking about your winter coat yet? If so, here’s our top tip: consider something in a spectacular new shape. Like a supersize cocoon. Or perhaps a masculine-sized Crombie.

The exaggerated shape and size of these pieces might feel a bit odd at first, but we promise they’ll grow on you. Because, after years of snugly fitted clothes at the top of the trend hierarchy, something is about to change. This season, we’re finally ready to embrace entirely new silhouettes. From luxury brands like Balenciaga, Chloé and Céline, right through to the high street, designers are trying out supergenerous but structured volumes. And it’s not just about large coats: roomy knitwear and boxy jackets also nail the look.

“Last year’s Cristóbal Balenciaga exhibition in Paris was a major influence on fashion moving away from the body and becoming more sculptural, more couture-like,” says David Hayes, acting deputy fashion editor of the Financial Times. “‘Couture’ is a style buzz word right now, and nothing says that more than a lush, full silhouette in a heavy, rich fabric.”

Though couture may be the starting point, the look also draws on streetwear, with culottes influenced by baggy skater shorts, and supersized sweatshirts in new hi-tech fabrics. These new standaway shapes show an awareness of the body that’s more anti-fit than figure-hugging. They’re comfortable to wear, easy to move in and have an androgynous, sporty look that suits both men and women.

They also make a serious style statement. How could anyone ignore the giant curved sleeves seen this season at label-of-the-moment Kenzo, or the banana-leg trousers by Balmain? These generous proportions are becoming mainstream now, but when they first caught our eye a few seasons ago on the runways of Prada and Stella McCartney, they looked decidedly OTT.

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Of course, silhouettes have changed throughout history, that’s part of the natural fashion cycle. But the trend for man-sized proportions has an interesting importance right now as young women and their role models rediscover the power of feminism and femininity. For example, what should we make of the female pop stars spotted on the red carpet switching skimpy bandage dresses for outfits straight off the menswear runways? Rihanna shocked and delighted the blogosphere in Acne menswear stripes last November, followed by Rita Ora in a men’s Burberry Prorsum suit at London Fashion Week (accessorised with fierce hair and heels, naturally). Meanwhile, Ciara has made a habit of raiding the Givenchy menswear rails for boyfriend-sized tees and flight jackets. Even Victoria Beckham, queen of all things fitted and stretchy, wants to see us in menswear-inspired tailoring for A/W 2013, complete with herringbone tweeds and plaids worthy of Savile Row. It seems the public fully approves. At EDITD, a consultancy that measures online buzz around brands and trends, research shows that oversized sweaters are becoming more popular, while talk of boy-fit jeans has jumped by 180 per cent. “Rihanna’s epic 777 Tour (7 countries, 7 days, 7 shows) last year caused huge buzz, with her stage wardrobe featuring more menswear than womenswear,” says EDITD’s trends and retail analyst Fay Cowan.

“During her tour, we counted more than 550 mentions of her menswear outfits by fashion’s most influential bloggers and tweeters. A whopping 81 per cent of those mentions were positive.” And after Ciara wore a certain Givenchy menswear t-shirt in March, EDITD’s data saw variations of the tee sell out at stores soon after.

Alongside the boxy tailoring and vast knits, there’s another shift going on. We’re also concealing a lot more. “Fashion has

balmain

been covering up and moving away from the bodycon dressing of the past few years,” says the Financial Times’ David Hayes. “It’s partly because of the general see-saw nature of fashion, but also because many brands have their eye on the emerging markets of India and the Far East, which are naturally more conservative.” These new long sleeves and high necklines are still absolutely glamorous. Just look at Valentino’s collections (the brand is now owned by Qatari royalty), which contrast demure covered-up shapes with lavish fabrics, rich colours and fabulous cult Rockstud shoes. Or Dries Van Noten, whose autumn/winter ‘gender-fused’ pieces are embellished with frivolous feathers and shimmering crystal appliqué.

As thighs and cleavage are kept under wraps, other erogenous zones are taking their place. “It’s more about what’s not on show, and exposing selected areas of your body. Shoulders and stomachs are the areas to display, with oversize shapes falling off the body to reveal bits of flesh,” says Jane Kellock of trend forecasting agency Stylus.

“More is left to the imagination and, with that, comes a certain power and feeling of being in control.” Cutaway sections on tops, skirts and dresses – popularised by Alexander Wang and Preen – show glimpses of skin, even with longer hemlines and sleeves. There’s plenty of

“Fashion has been covering up and moving away from the bodycon dressing of the past few years”

1900s–1910s The Gibson Girl’s style hinges on long, nipped-in skirts and puffed sleeves.

1920s Coco Chanel creates the straight, corsetfree dresses that become the flapper girl uniform.

1930s–40s The Hollywood siren’s hourglass silhouette dominates, and Dior’s full-skirted New Look defines the postwar years.

1950s America’s sweethearts Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly popularise pointy bras and skinny capri trousers.

1960s Short, sharp suits and mini-dresses rule, thanks to Mary Quant, Twiggy and Jackie Kennedy.

1970s Feminists adopt unisex dressing, from casual hippie chic to utilitarian and YSL’s celebrated Le Smoking.

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1980s The anything-goes years bring power shoulders, Japanese deconstruction, Alaïa body suits and oversized jersey.

1990s The anti-fit androgyny of the minimalists gives way to Tom Ford’s sexy sheath dresses.

2000s Bodycon returns, thanks to Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen’s glamorous tailoring.

2010s The New New Look is all about a supersized, structured yet body-conscious silhouette.

gorunway, all over press

The way we wore – fashion silhouettes through the decades

kevin tachman, All over press, gorunway

rita or a dries van noten ALEXANDER WANG

stella McCartney

concealing and revealing going on with layers of sheer, gauzy chiffon and lace. And, with our legs covered up, there’s a new focus on ankles and bare toes. High-heeled lace-up shoe boots with open toes are the party shoe of choice for the prim set; flat pointy pumps with clear Perspex sides are the flirty option for day.

For tips on how to wear the architectural shapes and new modest take on fashion, look to red carpet regulars and street style leaders. Tomboy-turned-style muse Kristen Stewart loves experimenting with tailoring and cutaway details; her trick is to balance the comfort of masculine trousers with discreet cutout details and heels. Ditto fashion editors, such as Caroline Issa and Julia Sarr-Jamois, who throw colourful supersized sweaters over pleated skirts and peep-toe booties with ease. Colour, transparency, soft fabrics and whimsical prints are the ways to inject modern femininity into this New New Look. It’s a look that younger designers are leading with.

Simone Rocha’s wide-cut biker jackets come in unexpected neons and pastels, to team with full skirts and chunky-soled shoes. Canadian designer Thomas Tait excels at athletic shapes in hi-vis shades and see-through fabrics, a combination of tough and precious. And duo Ostwald Helgason are becoming known for sweet illustrations and jewel colours to offset their boyish blazers and shirts. Not surprisingly, accessories fit beautifully into this equation. While arms and necks are covered, our attention moves to eye-catching rings, ear cuffs or the multiple ear piercings beloved by the downtown set. And when a suit or dress is utterly restrained and unadorned, the jewelled clutch bag becomes the focal piece.

Don’t think, however, that the ultra-fitted look is completely over and out – fashion doesn’t work like that any more. While the coming seasons are shaping up to be much larger and more architectural, there will always be an undercurrent of opposition. “What’s really interesting about fashion now is its scope and the multitude of options,” says Avril Mair, fashion features director of Harper’s Bazaar UK. “There were still some very short dresses in the Valentino show, alongside ones that looked almost puritanical in their modesty.”

Translation: don’t throw out the skinny jeans and bodycon just yet. But do try throwing something luxe and anti-fit over them.

céline

“The trend for man-sized proportions is important right now as young women rediscover the power of feminism and femininity”

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k n i p e h t n I

kevin tachman

al, d n sca ssic? b e l ce lie cla a u se a g i r a c can ethink k , pin me to r s y e da ge. Ti s e – th ker ed s e ca k a d a r p u la r c eliver se l o n f i aK just ven d An t ’ n Words s i s an d e r u t o l n f c o a te m e o t etes nist st e w i s The e a fem k ma

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SON JUNG WAN jonathan saunders

dior hAUTE COUTURE

erdem cédric charlier

DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

dkny

kevin tachman, gorunway, BULLS

W

hen Gwyneth Paltrow arrived at this year’s punk-themed Met Ball in bright-pink vintage Valentino, the fashion world didn’t know quite what to think. Had the star made a fashion faux pas? Mistaken the U in “punk” for an I? Or, actually made a subversive and on-trend statement?

Pink, you see, is a colour that comes with a bit of baggage. While some of us will always love it and consider it ‘ours’, others see it as too sweet and girlie for their post-adolescent wardrobe. If you’re in the latter gang, it is perhaps time to rethink. Yes, the colour of peonies, flamingos and cupcakes was once best suited to Barbie dolls. But nowadays, there’s so much more to it.

First, it’s worth noting that pink has a bit of a history as a fashion rebel. Elsa Schiaparelli turned heads back in 1937 when she introduced her signature colour, a vivid magenta called ‘shocking pink’ that was miles away from the polite tones favoured by couture designers and their clients.

Fast-forward 75 years or so, to 2010, and we find new superstar Nicki Minaj’s debut album Pink Friday featuring bubblegum pink artwork – and a head of candyfloss-coloured hair. This was Barbie gone wild with OTT wigs, neon blush and lipstick all in pink. Suddenly, pink was a riot. Clashing girlie stereotypes all over the place, Minaj made it a lot less demure and safe than before.

Since then, designers like London’s Meadham Kirchhoff have used shades of pink, from blush to fuchsia, to celebrate the brash, fun side of girliness, and even send out a feminist message. As Amy Odell, editor of BuzzFeed Fashion, says: “If we’re talking about hot pink, I’d say that the wearer wants to stand out and isn’t afraid of femininity.”

Minaj and Paltrow aren’t the only celebs to favour the colour. Damian Collins, of star stylists Silver Spoon Attire, loves to use it.

“It varies from client to client, but I do like the colour in all its shades,” he says. When they’re styling Rihanna, Jessie Ware and Ellie Goulding, Damian and his wife Avigail aim for

a street-cool aesthetic that is still glamorous and fun. Pink does fit in with that, Collins believes, but in a particular way. “It isn’t hard to make Rihanna look edgy in any colour. With someone like Jessie Ware, we tend to use pink more sparingly, with accents. But this year we have been introducing different shades of pink into Jessie’s wardrobe, too.”

With pink so newly back in fashion, it feels like a welcome breath of fresh air in the jaded fashionista’s wardrobe.

“Pink now feels like the antidote to the skinny-silhouetted unshowered hipster look that was so popular circa 2007,” Amy Odell says. “Pink gingham is the new plaid, maybe.” Yes, even the traditionally cuter sides of pink are having their moment.

Pastel pink, long associated with occasions (“baby showers, weddings, graduations,” as Odell puts it) is shedding its staid inhibitions and becoming fresh and relevant. Part of that is to do with young Londoner Simone Rocha’s stellar A/W 2013 collection, which featured a shade she called ‘Pepto-Bismol pink’ on very polished ladylike dresses and jackets.

As Francesca Burns, fashion editor of British Vogue says: “Pink as a colour tends to be gentle and feminine, so perhaps it’s a reflection of the current mood.”

Ellen Burney, features director of Lula, believes pink is perfect for everyday wear.

“I live in a classic palette of navy, Bretons, black and grey, but pastel pink has long been my ‘colour’ of choice,” she says. “I love the contrast of sombre school-girl grey and navy with a lifting powder pink shade. It’s almost balletic. Or a pink sweater tied around the shoulders over a Breton top.”

Nowadays, pink can even have a darker edge, as Jonathan Saunders and Erdem showed this season. Saunders made pink seem racy with vinyl and leatherette, and Erdem focused on embellishment and illusion to give it a gothic elegance. The new way to wear pink, it seems, is a far cry from the simple sweetness of princess costumes and cupcakes. But, regardless of changing tides, the colour itself is something constant and uncomplicated that women can relate to. “Women love pink,” says Francesca Burns. “It’s flattering and it sits well with other colours. And pink is still pink! It hasn’t changed.”

simone rocha

diane von furstenberg

Above: Leigh Lezark of The Misshapes. Below: Nicki Minaj’s debut album, Pink Friday.

“Pink now feels like the antidote to the skinnysilhouetted unshowered hipster look that was so popular circa 2007”

As street style grows ever more outlandish, fashion trendsetters are making a U-turn towards smaller, more versatile selections of pieces that work together seamlessly. Read on for insider tips on how to create a truly timeless wardrobe.

Words

Lou Stoppard

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the coveteur/Trunk archive/BULLS

Your perfect Wardrobe

leather jacket

gorunway, STREETFSN

A good hat will literally top off any look you put together.

The trick is to find one that complements your face shape.

look, simplicity is key. She assembles her clothes like building blocks. “The perfect wardrobe should make mornings easier, not be something you have to work at,” she says.

“If you start with one item you love and could wear every day, then the next time you’re shopping you can check in your mind if the new item goes with it, and keep building up in this way – so all your daily clothes work together and are built from the base of something you love.”

For some shoppers, finding items they love can become something of an addiction. That’s why so many women stockpile plain t-shirts, skinny jeans and simple flats, rather than killer showpieces. And that’s why basics with pyjama-like cosiness stay at the top of our wishlists. “It’s about being super comfortable,” says Quentin. “In the winter I live in black jeans, shirts and cashmere jumpers with black ankle boots. Having three to four pairs of jeans that fit really well means you can get dressed with your eyes closed, because you have a formula for what to add to them that can’t fail.

In the summer, I like baggy casual dresses that you don’t need to wear anything else with – there is nothing better than a one-piece, throw-on sort of outfit.”

Vogue.co.uk’s fashion features editor Jessica Bumpus takes a sentimental approach to uniform dressing by seeking out the easy shapes and styles she wore as a child. She lives in boyfriend-fit jeans, sloppy sweaters, clumpy flats and ankle socks. “My style is moving more and more towards dressing as though I’m nine again,” she jokes. Jess’s tip is not to worry too much about looking polished. “I’m really into menswear at the moment, and the way male designers dress, popping out at the end of their shows in a simple, casual sweatshirt-andjeans ensemble.” Indeed, the power of fuss-free dressing was cemented earlier this year, when American designer Alexander Wang – king of the ultimate wardrobe staple, the t-shirt – was

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isabel mar ant

C

lothes are like relationships.

Just as it may take a few trial runs before you find a keeper – someone who’s right for you and gets on with your other loved ones – the search for perfect pieces for your wardrobe can be a long and winding road.

For most of us, it is a journey interrupted by detours. Just look back at the past few seasons, and how we’ve all flirted with the unexpected – all those new shapes and brave prints.

Now, things feel a little different. As fashion’s committed street style set grow ever more daring with their clashing patterns and more-is-more styling, nothing seems as refreshing and confident as an outfit that whispers, rather than shouts, and is unique and personal, instead of bang on trend. That’s why the chicest women are eschewing one-season wonders and establishing their own uniforms of key pieces. Now is a good time, their clothes seem to be saying, to remember it’s the items we stay with for the long term that really make a difference to how we dress.

A great lasting wardrobe isn’t about a certain look, but about dressing as yourself.

So yours could be based on skinny jeans and androgynous jumpers and jackets. Or you might stock up on flattering dresses that can be styled up and down with jewellery and accessories. Do it the way you prefer – and enjoy how much easier getting dressed seems when you’re working to a blueprint.

Having worked with influential brands such as Chanel and Victoria Beckham, New York and London-based illustrator and filmmaker Quentin Jones is the toast of the creative crowd. But when it comes to her own

hatS

h&m

BALMAIN

stella mccartney

For many people, finding the perfect black leather jacket is a lifelong obsession. And with good reason – it’s one of the most versatile pieces you’ll ever own.

The piece that will add polish to any outfit. Boxy and boyish may be au courant, but a cropped version will give you that ladylike vibe.

céline announced as new creative director at highfashion powerhouse Balenciaga.

The vogue for minimalism and simplicity has also seen labels such as Céline and Stella McCartney doing well. Each season they update and refine classic shapes, from oversized coat to skinny tuxedo suit. The message they’re pushing is: get your basics right, then add drama with the details – whether it’s with a sensual sheer panel as at Stella, or a pair of canary-yellow fur heels at Céline.

While maximalism can be fun, there’s something that feels very current about refining and reducing our wardrobes back to a core few pieces – a couple of great pairs of jeans, a white shirt and blazer, a wear-withanything sweatshirt and a day-to-night shift dress. Helpfully, this editing process means

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céline

you don’t have to spend a fortune to look good.

Jessica Bumpus may love her Marni and Marc Jacobs, but some of her best-loved pieces came from more unlikely sources, from vintage shops to children’s departments. “I got a great boy’s parka from H&M once, which I still wear. It’s practical, no one else has it and it goes with everything,” she says. Another trick is rediscovering old favourites, whether it’s the battered pair of Converse that have been gathering dust at the back of your closet, or those cut-off denim shorts that have seen you through so many holidays.

London-based designer Claire Barrow, who shows as part of talent factory Fashion East, has made a business out of upcycling classics.

Among her signature pieces are black leather bikers, which she stockpiles from second-hand shops and updates by painting them with colourful motifs and patterns – a trick that has already caught the eye of Rihanna. Claire loves the biker for its effortlessly ‘dangerous’ appeal. “Leather jackets are made to protect our bodies from harm, like a second skin,” she says. “They’ve survived the test of time, and are strongly reminiscent of stylishness, sexuality and masculinity.”

It’s versatility that unites the most desirable clothes – they translate effortlessly from day to night, and from smart to casual.

That capacity to beat dress codes is why iconic items like the little black dress and the beige trenchcoat have stood the test of time. When shopping, it’s adaptability that you should keep in mind, by considering how many pieces of your existing wardrobe a purchase will match or successfully update. Whether you fancy an oversized motorcycle style or fitted blazer, a leather jacket is a good first item to seek out.

Even dedicated fashion fans can embrace basics without losing any of their personal pizzazz. Style.com associate news editor Katharine K. Zarrella is a self-confessed uniform dresser, having built up a wardrobe centred

stella mccartney

Elegant, rock ‘n’ roll or cosy, a favourite scarf is the grownup equivalent to a security blanket.

The versatile shoe that will go with everything from cropped trousers to mini-skirts.

around black sleeveless maxi dresses and white blouses, with leather pieces thrown in. But her go-to pieces are far from basic. “I have two items in my wardrobe I couldn’t live without: my black 1940s vintage turban and my Lock & Co bowler hat,” she says proudly. “I wear one of them to the office every day, and I’d feel completely naked without them.”

As Katharine’s hats show, uniform dressing is as much about signatures as staples. Just look at the world’s favourite style icons – they all have their go-to pieces. For Kate Moss it’s as simple as a great pair of skinny jeans; for Sixties trendsetter Edie Sedgwick it was show-stopping chandelier earrings and dance leotards. Jessica Rabbit knew she never looked better than when in a bodycon red gown, and Audrey Hepburn always shone brightest in a Givenchy frock.

As these examples show, the perfect wardrobe boils down to what we feel most ourselves in. Whether we realise it or not, we all have items we tend to grab when we’re running late, pieces we’d never leave out when packing a suitcase. These are the things to keep an eye out for when shopping. Think of it in terms of fashion maths. The more you wear a piece, the more valuable it becomes, no matter what the original price – and who wouldn’t want a wardrobe filled with priceless gems?

gorunway, STREETFSN

“A great lasting wardrobe isn’t about a certain look”

SCARVES

isabel mar ant

Easy to wear and oh so cool, the oversized coat is a key part of the modern wardrobe.

STella Mccartney

oversized coat

Never let me go

Favourite clothes can be trusted confidantes, perfect partners or best friends for ever – so when it comes to building a perfect wardrobe, make sure you love the ones you’re with.

the coveteur/Trunk archive/BULLS, vanessa jackman

F

Words

Lou Stoppard

orm, fabric and fit aside, it’s often the emotional connection we feel with our clothes that keeps us coming back to one item time and time again. For fashion writer and bestselling author Camilla Morton, it’s rarely about looks. “My favourite pieces are memories. It’s that night out, that day on the beach, that first fashion show,” she says. “As I look through my wardrobe I don’t see labels, I see friends. I see a torn skirt and remember jumping over the barrier to get the last Métro home. I see a denim jacket pinned with badges and I’m back at college. I see a coat with odd buttons and I remember the fleamarket I found them at.”

It’s the very reason we all hang on to our prom dresses or wedding gowns. Our own worn clothing has a precious asset that new purchases, however covetable, can never compete with – a story. As Camilla says, the pieces we can’t let go of don’t have to be luxurious – they can be as simple as a favourite band t-shirt purchased at an unforgettable gig, or a battered leather bag, bought years ago after months of saving.

Just as we hold on to our loved ones in sickness and in health, we return to these tried-and-tested items because they always make us feel good. Television presenter and stylist Grace Woodward also sees her favourite pieces as ‘old friends’. “We won’t speak for a year or so, and then pick up again, wondering why we lost touch,” she jokes.

“One of my old-but-new best friends that’s having yet another moment in the sun is a vintage Alaïa dress I purchased a few years ago. I keep returning to it because of the way it makes me feel. Sometimes I wish I could ban mirrors, because in my head, when I put on this dress, I am a Felliniesque, Dolce & Gabbana beauty whose curves are like Tuscan rolling hills, not the man-made trenches they really are! But, that moment before I leave the house in the dress, I am walking tall and can achieve anything. It’s my armour – the ultimate confidence.”

Our favourite clothes can become our most trusted confidantes and our sweetest love affairs. They are sympathetic to the bits we want to disguise and shine light on our best assets. It’s a cyclical process, as each time we wear an item its story becomes ever more entwined with our own life. The prospect of getting rid of one of these pieces seems unthinkable. They are a part of our history and a reassuring hand to hold as we move forward. As Morton puts it, “Good fashion creates memories; favourite clothes become the alibis and accomplices that dress you for whatever adventure your imagination can script.”

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Caroline Issa Tank magazine

Eva Chen editor and writer “I try never to become immune to the simultaneous grandeur and charm of Paris.

The best way to take it all in? A Vélib’ bicycle. My absolute favourite thing to do is to rent one for the day and bike from the Right Bank to Left Bank.

The only downside is that the basket is too small to contain my clothes shopping – although perhaps that’s a blessing in disguise.”

JosÉphine de la Baume actress and model “I love Le Marché des Enfants Rouges in the Marais. The sandwiches at Chez Alain are the best in Paris. He sings loudly while he prepares them, and often decides what sandwich suits you, so you might not end up with the one you originally ordered, but it’ll probably be even better.

Around the corner is Fabien Breuvart Photographie, which sells found photographs from the 1920s to the 1980s on various themes: soldiers, nudes, families, dancers, actors… I buy boudoir nudes for my brothers and dad every Christmas.”

“Dinner at Derrière in the Marais means delicious food, a ping pong table and a secret chamber. What more could you want from a restaurant? Cire Trudon on Rue de Seine is one of the oldest candle makers and an amazing shop. Bob’s Cold Press is a fresh juice bar run by two former 3.1 Phillip Lim staffers. And I always stay somewhere Christian Lacroix has given his personal touch to, such as Hôtel du Petit Moulin in the Marais.”

MY Paris

“The first thing I like to do in Paris is go to a café and people-watch. Any café will do, but my favourite is the Bar du Central, a neighbourhood place in the 7th.

Then I go to Colette on Rue St-Honoré, a truly unique fashion store. I also like to meet my friends at Rose Bakery in the 9th. And I can spend hours at nearby Hôtel Amour – it reminds me of my high school hang-out!”

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cire trudon, trunk archive/bulls, all over press, kevin tachman, R. Vesin/Crea-PR, Francis Mariani

Garance Doré fashion blogger and photographer

“I love an amble around the Boulevard SaintGermain. At the Benedictine Abbey, you can mosey in on the tomb of philosopher René Descartes.

Also tucked away on the Left Bank is one of my favourite pubs in the world: the Highlander. It’s a Scottish pub frequented by a mixed crowd – and all the models during PFW. And I love the bespoke perfume boutiques. But my highlight, always, is visiting Palais Royal to hunt for one-off vintage pieces from Balenciaga or Givenchy.”

hackett

Erin O’Connor model, designer and activist

Blazer

149 kn 89,90 LEI 34,90 лв.

2.199 RSD

Pyjama Bottoms

199 kn 129 LEI 59,90 лв.

3.199 RSD