Issue 79 Wild West Adventures in the “Great Bear Rainforest” Canada’s finest!
Lapping the Lakes
Part two of a three part series on paddling the Rotorua lakes Proudly supported by:
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Organising your fishing tackle
Contents Sea Kayaking Wild West Adventures in the“Great Bear Rainforest” Lapping the Lakes – Tikitapu, Tarawera and Rotomahana
6 19
Racing R&R - Racing & Recreation
14
Fishing No Limits
28
White Water Interview with Josh Neilson
47
Technical Rescue Me Please Sea Kayak Rescues Trip Card - Martins Bay to Kawau Island Trip Card - Waikowhai Bay to Oatoru Bay
5 34 41 42
EDITOR: Peter Townend Ph: 0274 529 255 Email: pete@canoeandkayak.co.nz PUBLISHER: New Zealand Kayak Magazine is published four times per year by Canoe & Kayak Ltd. PRINTING: MHP Print
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Pricing: At the time of printing the prices in this magazine were accurate. However they may change at any time. Copyright: The opinions expressed by contributors and the information stated in advertisements/articles are not necessarily agreed to by the editors or publisher of New Zealand Kayak Magazine. SUBSCRIPTIONS: (see page 46) New Zealand – 4 Issues = $25 Overseas – 4 Issues = $40
Books Adventurer at Heart
18
Puzzles Sudoku Quick Crossword Puzzle Solutions
33 33 46
Product Kayak listings Great Gift Ideas
43 44
CONTRIBUTORS: We welcome contributors’ articles and photos. Refer to www.canoeandkayak. co.nz/guide New Zealand Kayak Magazine ‘Contributors Guidelines’ for more details. ALL CONTRIBUTIONS TO: James Fitness Email: james@canoeandkayak.co.nz New Zealand Kayak Magazine
Photos: Front page: British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest Photos supplied by: Gordon Baron This page: Ben Fitness & Thomas Patrick enjoyed their day training in Okura. See more on page 34. Photo by: Peter Townend
Issue 79 Christmas 2015
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Editorial I had the pleasure of bumping into an old paddling friend this week. Our eyes lit up as we recognised each other after maybe 20 years. Back then, Eddie had just retired and had plenty of time to head out exploring. I had the boundless energy of a young man on a mission; to enlighten everyone to the world of kayaking, having a family and building a business at the same time. The comradery that existed back then still abounds today; as kayaking adventures and training have a way of bringing people together, forming strong bonds. He shared some of the adventures he’d had since we last met with comments like: “Wow! The South Island was amazing with lakes and mountains, incredible kayaking and tramping. 28 days paddling around Fiji, paddling with orca with eyes as big as dinner plates”. He has now retired from paddling, but it was obvious the fun and adventure was one of the highlights of the last couple of decades. What a buzz to see an old friend who had enjoyed something we had helped with and being so happy with those memories.
When at the beach, or working at one of the Canoe & Kayak Centres, my first question of people is “What sort of kayaking do you want to do?” More often than not, they have small adventures in mind, a paddle around the local beach, lake or estuary, close to shore and in perfect weather; so nice and safe. I ask if they would like to be a bit more adventurous and paddle the Whanganui River for five or six days, or explore Able Tasman National Park, or the Bay of Islands. The answer, more often than not is “Yes! But can I do that?” They say. The answer of course is “Yes”. With a little training, the correct equipment and a bunch of like-minded paddlers to go with, the paddling destinations of New Zealand and indeed the world are at your paddle-tips. This is what the New Zealand Kayak Magazine, Canoe & Kayak and the Yakity Yak Kayak Club Trust have encouraged for decades, and it works really well for those that are ready for a
Rescue Me Please This summer there will be the opportunity to develop your skills and become a more competent paddler. It doesn’t matter if you are just starting out or, like me you have been paddling for years. The same rule applies. You never know it all! I have been doing my usual development training this spring and I attended an outdoors conference for a couple of days. There we shared ideas with each other and listened to experts on issues that affect instructors working in the outdoors. It is always enlightening and having shared my ideas, I came away with new skills and knowledge that make me that much more informed. It is however, all run indoors, watching screens and talking is only as
Issue 79
challenge, an adventure and perhaps a change of direction. So now that summer is here, don’t doubt your own potential. Have a chat with one of the Canoe & Kayak team to learn the easy steps to becoming a safe, adventurous paddler and create memories that will be in your top ten. Cheers and happy paddling Peter Townend
By Peter Townend
good as your imagination. The real stuff this spring that pushed me to my physical boundaries was a three day River Rescue Course run by Rescue 3 International. The brief I got was: Whitewater Rescue Technician (WRT) This course is designed specifically for professional guides, private boaters, fish and game personnel, and others who work or play on or around flowing water. Students will benefit from this intensive, hands-on course and will learn to use techniques and simple equipment to assess and perform river rescues. The emphasis is on speedy, low-tech, and improvised rescue techniques that are effective and require minimal equipment.
Well, off we went for three days on the Mohaka and what a challenge. The weather was stunning but my, oh my, was it cold. The instructors looked at me with a calm knowing look, as I suggested that the activity was a bit over the top and would probably be better considered. They insisted calmly that all would be well. Having faith in them, I gave it a go. I found that in each challenge I was capable and that they were right. The result is that I now have some new tricks up my sleeve and to a large degree, more confidence in dealing with some areas of River Rescue. I strongly recommend doing this course if you are paddling on rivers. It will open your eyes and make you considerably safer and give you the ability to attempt rescues if needed. See more on rescues on page 34
Wild West Adventures In The“Great Bear Rainforest” By Cindy Phillips and Gordon Baron
Hakai Passage is located in the “Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Marine Park”.
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Issue 79 Christmas 2015
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British Columbia is Canada’s most western Province. The coastline stretches over 600 miles (965 km) from Victoria, north of Seattle, to Portland Inlet on the Canadian/Alaska border. This Inside Passage consists of more than 40,000
Artists come from around the globe to paint the beautiful scenery in the Great Bear Rainforest. (Mark Hobson)
islands. The mild and moist climates are influenced by the Pacific currents circulating the warm water along the outer coast. The steep mountains from the inland fjords hold in the low lying clouds, creating their own weather systems. Located in the middle of BC’s coastline is the world’s largest remaining area of unspoiled temperate rainforest left intact. In the mid 1990’s, over twelve hundred square miles of pristine, remote wilderness was named the “Great Bear Rainforest”. The biodiversity’s dramatic combination of forest ecosystems, rugged landscape and marine ecology makes British Columbia’s “Great Bear Rainforest” one of the most varied and scenic regions in Canada. Two hundred and twenty miles northwest of Vancouver, in BC’s western edge of the Great Bear Rainforest, is the remote jewel of “Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy”. The 122,998 hectare Provincial Marine Park is the largest in the Province. Archeological discoveries have provided physical evidence that people have inhabited the mid-coast of British Columbia for more than 10,000 years. History, traditions and cultures have revolved around fishing and salmon have been responsible for the economic development of these secluded communities on the Central Coast. The stunning archipelago of islands and the intricate networks of coves, channels and inlets; have kept us on an exploration journey lasting two decades. You are off the grid out here, which means you look after yourself. With a little knowledge of shellfish gathering and what to use as bait on your fishing pole, you can live off the sea just like in ancient times. In the winter months during the storm and hurricane season, (December to March) this can be a little difficult. Weather and tides are the biggest challenge paddling in the Great Bear Rainforest. In June, tides reach lows of 0.0 feet. The inter-tidal pools come alive with sealife and the Islands expose miles of white sand beaches. Calvert Island is one of these hidden treasures. This Island is twenty miles (32 km) long and Over 200 salmon canneries operated on the coast of BC.
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Paddling in Hakai Pass looking out into the open waters of the Pacific Ocean
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Humpback whales return every summer to the Great Bear Rainforest from the waters off Mexico and Hawaii. ten miles (16 km) wide. The beaches have been rated as some of Canada’s best. We have proof, as my partner and I lived alone on this secluded Island for three winters building trails, boardwalks and bridges to viewpoints and lookouts on the west side of the Island. The east side is protected from the westerly storms, big swells and open surfs. Sports fishermen have been coming to Hakai and Rivers Inlet areas for more than a century for the legendary salmon fishing. In the last decade, people have been coming for the wilderness adventure and educational learning experience living with nature in their natural environment. The safe anchorage on the east side of the Island in Pruth Bay is a destination for boaters heading north to Alaska. This is also a good starting point for kayaking. The summer months of June, July, August and September are the warmest, with the least amount of strong off-shore winds. Paddling north from Pruth Bay in Kawashua Channel we start to feel the strength of the Pacific Ocean swells entering Hakai Passage, northern tip of Calvert Island. In early January and June we can have a 16 foot (4.8 m) tide change in six hours. That is a lot of water moving through Hakai Pass producing swells so big that the shoreline, trees and mountains disappear on the low “Mean” part of the swell. In January you can add a chop to the waves. Timing is critical; we have to leave just before morning slack in the tide change and before the daily temperature warms up bringing westerly winds and sea fog. (August) This gives us enough time to get around the open waters of Hakai Pass into the cluster of Islands in Choked Passage. (North end of Calvert Island). The sealife and salmon fishing come alive. This is also the start of the Calvert Island chain of white sand beaches. Beach access to the five sand beaches on the northern tip of Calvert Island facing Hakai Passage can be challenging in the open surf for the rookie paddler. Trails have been built and up-graded linking North Beach to West Beach and trails heading south overlooking the Pacific Ocean, also connecting us back to Pruth Bay,(starting point). This means, if the water gets too rough we can walk back to the starting point and pick up our kayaks later? (BC Parks, Tula Foundation and First Nation communities have up-graded PAGE 10
Issue 79 Christmas 2015
Grizzly balancing on his hind legs getting mussels off the tree branches at low tide.
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Paddling at sunset in Fitz Hugh Sound. Cape Calvert is in the distance. (South end of Calvert Island)
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Oh No? Not you again. When the tide is the lowest, we paddle to a section of shoreline to get images of grizzlies. After awhile they get used to seeing the kayaks
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Issue 79 Christmas 2015
P A G E 11
the trails making this into a first class hiking destination). Walking on the groomed paths, new bridges and boardwalks on the “South Beach Trail” climbs us up around the cliffs to “Baron’s Bluff” lookout and beyond, connecting you to another string of white sand beaches on the west side of the Island. This is also a good safety feature for paddlers, should the weather change and you have to come ashore. All trails connect back to the starting point at Pruth Bay. Just a few miles east of Calvert Island, crossing Fitz Hugh Sound is the entrance to Rivers Inlet (Gateway to Grizzly Country and Cannery Row). Rivers Inlet is famous for the salmon fishing and the seventeen commercial salmon canneries that once operated in the thirty mile (48 km) long Inlet, with the last cannery closing in 1957. Rivers Inlet still holds the record for the world’s biggest King salmon, weighing in at 126 pounds (57 kg). Salmon has made the Inlet a destination for sports fishermen and grizzlies. Starting in mid-March, the snow has melted off the lower levels on the mountains, arctic outflow winds have stopped and the weather begins to warm up. With our camera gear ready for another season, we are off paddling the shoreline looking for that ultimate image of a grizzly. This is not an easy task because so much has to come together. It has to be early morning; this is the grizzlies favourite feeding time. Tide has to be at its lowest point of the day, exposing mussels and sea grass. Need bright overcast, not sunshine to highlight the bears, and the water has to be glass calm so you have little camera shake with a long lens. It was hard to get used to the short open kayak after being in the luxury of a 21ft (6.3 m). Tofino kayak. But after doing a few Eskimo rolls trying to land on the beaches loaded with gear in an open surf,you start to get a little wiser, than faster. The waves on this section of shoreline are very close together making it just about impossible for me to pop out of the cockpit and control my watercraft before the next wave hits. Plus being able to stand in the kayak getting out from a support boat (Mothership) in rough seas with a packsack and paddle sure is a real bonus, not to mention the plexy glass
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For generations First Nation people have used the natural resources of the ocean to supply seafood to their villages and old growth Red and Yellow Cedar trees to build their Long Houses, canoes, totems, masks and sections of the standing tree for planking, clothing and baskets etc. Today these standing trees have been labeled as Cultural Modified Trees. (CMT) The term describes the modification of a tree (any species) by the indigenous people as part of their tradition. Trees are registered by the government of British Columbia and are illegal to cut down. CMT dot British Columbia’s coastline displaying living memories of First Nations coastal heritage. Exploration in the Great Bear Rainforest is a voyage through time that gives us the ultimate wilderness experience. Photos: Opposite page top: Bald eagle is perched on an old abandoned floating logging “A” frame. This float was once used to pull small logs down the mountainside into the ocean. bottom to photograph sea creatures. As the weather gets warmer during mid-day, the fjords inflow winds begin, surf up, and the grizzlies head for the shade until the late afternoon when the temperature cools down. This comes from living up-close with the grizzlies for five years. If you have never caught a “Spring” (King) salmon from your kayak, the experience is something you will never forget. The strong fighting fish will tow you all over the Inlet, taking hours to reel in if you’re lucky. Getting the fish in the kayak is another story. Over the years, we had grizzlies swim out to the kayak to investigate; make false charges from the shoreline, (lightening fast) plus a group of four sleeping eight feet (2.4 m) from our front door. But the hairiest moment was when lying on a pier watching two grizzlies fighting 12 ft (3.6 m). below. I was looking through the lens, taking pictures, when one of the grizzlies spotted me, before pressing the shutter release button for the next image, the grizzly was on its hind legs, growling five feet (1.5 m) away from my face. Took the shot, but the lens could not focus fast enough. Talk about an adrenalin rush.
Bottom left: This ancient western red cedar tree in the Great Bear Rainforest have been modified by the indigenous people to use as planking to make their traditional Long Houses over a century ago. Culturally Modified Tree (CMT) is a term that describes the modification of a tree by the First Nation people as part of their tradition. Bottom right : My partner and I lived alone on Calvert Island for three winters building trails, bridges, ladders and boardwalks to gain access to lookouts and beaches facing the open west side of the Island. (Trails have since been up-graded) This page top: First Nations Nuxalk carvers raven mask. Bottom: Archeologists have studied the rock carvings (Petroglyphs) in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest. They provide evidence that people have lived in this area more than 10,000 years. Some believe they have Polynesian origin?
As June approaches, schools of herring start to enter the Inlets, bays and streams in the Great Bear Rainforest. This brings white sided dolphins, humpbacks, orcas, steller sea lions, seabirds and salmon in from the Pacific Ocean. This is also when the marine highway of the Inside passage starts getting busy with vessels heading northbound to Alaska. The Great Bear Rainforest is home to the First Nations Oweekeno people in Rivers Inlet, Heiltsuk from Bella Bella and Nuxalk from Bella Coola.
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Yakity Yak trip up Lucas Creek, Albany. Photo by: Shelley Stuart
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Bryce Stevenson with a nice snapper caught at White Cliffs in Taranaki.
Like every angler I have lots of rods, reels, and tackle for all occasions, species, and fishing techniques - probably enough to open a small tackle shop - but do I need to take it all out with me each and every time I go fishing? Yes, of course I do, you never know when I might need that jigging rod, that lightweight softbait rod, or even that old glass trolling rod. But, when fishing from a kayak can you take all that gear then? The quick answer is no, there simply isn’t the room. So does that mean you cannot do all the types of fishing on a kayak that you can on a boat? No, not at all. What it means is that you have to learn how to fish with a limited arsenal that although is physically less it in no way limits your ability to target the same number of species with all the same methods as you are used to. There are two techniques you can apply to getting your kit sorted for kayak fishing; reduce and re-use. These will enable you to limit the amount of gear you take without limiting your ability to catch fish. The third thing we’ll look at is how you store your tackle and how you can assist yourself further if you think about how you store it. PAGE 28
Issue 79 Christmas 2015
Reduce Reduce is simple when you think about it, rather than taking all the tackle in your tackle box you review what you have and just take what you will use, plus a couple of spares. It’s about reducing the number of duplicate or similar items you are taking and how you could combine them if possible. A good example is terminal tackle, how many hooks, swivels, jigheads, etc do you really need for a six hour fishing session. My boat tackle box will have at least ten or more of each size hook, swivel, and endless jig head variations, but realistically, how many would I use in one session? Jig heads are a good example for me as I only softbait off my kayak. In my boat kit I’ll have at least ten jig heads of each size and weight. When I’m kayak fishing I’m fishing inshore mostly at depths below 30 metres so do I really need a 2 oz jighead? My jighead collection is cut right down to half a dozen of my favourite brand, size, and weight which is ½ oz 1/0 Berkley Stealths, a couple at 1oz and one at 2 oz just in case. So that’s eight spare jigheads plus the one that is already on my pre-rigged rod for a six hour session. If I lose all those jigheads in one session, I’ve been doing something wrong. It does raise the question though what if I find fish in very shallow water and need to go below the 1/2 oz? Simple, I’ve also got with me half a dozen worm hooks and a few egg sinkers in 1/4 oz for such an occasion. www.kayaknz.co.nz
The same technique can be applied to other terminal tackle. For example sinkers; I carry a small collection of egg and ball sinkers for softbaits and live baits and if I need more weight, I simply add two or three sinkers to the line till I achieve the desired weight. Swivels and other terminal tackle that come in larger packs can simply be decanted into other packets or storage boxes, I don’t need 25 swivels just four or five will do for a session. Yes, all of this arranging can add to the preparation time as I need to check what needs to be replaced before each trip, but it massively cuts down what I take with me and what I have to stow on the kayak where storage space is limited.
Technique Segregation Segregation means setting apart from other things. Separate your tackle into the different techniques it will be used for, for example you don’t need live bait balloons for softbaiting and you don’t need jigheads if you are going out for a mechanical jigging session. Store all the tackle for each technique together. You can decide what needs to be loaded on the kayak, depending on the expected fishing technique on the day. You may end up with some duplication of tackle by using this method but at least you’re not lugging around several kilos of extra gear you have no intention of using.
Re-use The second method I use to cut down on all the gear I take with me is to work out what gear I can reuse or repurpose across different techniques. This applies more to rod and reel setups than terminal tackle but there is some reuse than can be found if you look hard enough. At a very high level, rod and reel combos can be broken down into two categories based on the reel type; spin, or fixed spool, and overhead or free spool. Generally techniques can also be grouped in this way, normally
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Rob Boyle with a 4.53 kg trevalley
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based on whether or not you need to cast the lure or bait. Casting is best suited to spin reels, as there is less friction than an overhead reel where the spool carrying the line has to rotate to allow the line to feed out; whereas the overhead setup is much better for techniques where you are dropping or feeding out a lure or bait, as it allows you to feel and control the line peeling off the reel as the lure or bait descends and you can feel those bites on the drop much easier. By assigning the techniques to the setups you can identify which techniques could be carried out on the one set up. Generally you’ll only use one technique at a time, so you can get away with one setup for a couple of techniques. The perfect example of this is jigging and live baiting. Both can be carried out perfectly well on a jigging setup, my own jigging setup is a Tica Redback 250 gm rod with a Shimano Talica 8 reel. This setup has successfully been used for jigging at White Island and live baiting off the East Cape. Another example is my lighter weight overhead setup using a K-Labs rod and a Shimano Trinidad 14A reel which is used for trolling hard body lures, slow jigs like the Shimano Lucanus, and Inchiku jigs like the Jitterbugs from Ocean Angler. My third set up I take with me on my kayak is the trusty soft bait setup. Now there isn’t a great deal of re-use here, but I can still cast a small lure for kahawai or even use the very small Inchiku jigs on it too. It’s important to note; my softbait setups are normally on the heavier end of the scale which gives me the ability to fish with the same setup in various locations without having to take several rods with me. I do a lot of my kayak fishing outside the Hauraki Gulf, even though I live in Auckland. I go further afield looking for bigger fish be it up north, on the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula or on a mothership trip at Great Barrier Island. So I fish with a 20 lb rod from Okuma with a Shimano Stradic CI4 4000 loaded with 14 lb Suffix braid – I told you it was heavy gear – but this rig is equally suited to a session to catch a feed in the Rangitoto Channel. The only change I’ll make is the weight of the fluorocarbon leader I use to match the location and expected catch.
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Heavy spin setups for jigging and live baiting whilst they can be used, are really not suited to kayak fishing because when you are hooked up to a strong string pulling fish, the rod will naturally be pulled down as the fish tries to run and/or go deep. This means as the reel is under the rod it will be pulled down onto your legs and the kayak making winding the handle on the reel difficult. Therefore you are better off with an overhead setup when fishing for the bigger fish as the reel is always above the rod and can still be wound even if the fish is pulling the rod all the way down on to the kayak.
Storage So we’ve talked about all this gear and how rods and reels can be reused for different techniques so how do I get all this gear on my kayak?
Jason Dassler with his 8.64 kg snapper
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That’s simple: lots of plastic boxes, yes lots of them, even plastic boxes that fit inside other plastic boxes. I start back at the segregation stage and work out what I need for each fishing technique then grab a small compartment box and start to fill it with the tackle I’ve sorted out, a technique or a couple of similar techniques may spill across several boxes which are then grouped into larger boxes so they can be kept together and easily loaded into the kayak.
The trick is to find a supply of suitable boxes that you can fit your tackle into and that you can easily fit into your kayak without wasting that valuable storage space you have on your kayak. My small boxes I found at a Plastic Box store and the larger ones are from Systema which can be found at various stores including The Warehouse. These boxes are cheap, so having a few extra on hand makes loading them up for a fishing trip quick and easy. One thing to note is that as much as they like to tell you how good the seals are on these plastic boxes they are very rarely 100% water tight, so you’ll end up with water in them at some point. Keep an eye on them for water ingress as saltwater and most fishing tackle do not mix well. You’ll soon end up with a bunch of rusted out hooks etc. If water does get into your boxes act quickly. You can often save your tackle from corrosion by simply removing the saltwater. When you get home, rinse it all in warm fresh water and dry it somewhere warm like the airing cupboard.
Stretching Deck Space Finally I’ll look at is utilising the space you have on your kayak. The space available on a kayak is always limited. It’s not just where to store your tackle, there’s also deck space where you have to mount rod holders, electronics, etc. This is where a TracPort from New Zealand company Railblaza has been used, allowing three items to be fitted into the space of one or two. The Railblaza system offers a variety of add on products that can be plugged into their StarPort system which are ideal for kayaks.
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KASK is a network of sea kayakers throughout New Zealand
KASK publishes a bi-monthly newsletter containing trip reports, events, book reviews, technique/ equipment reviews and a ‘bugger’ file. KASK holds national sea kayaking forums.
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Wellington ? Taranaki ? Taupo ? Bay of Plenty ? Waikato ? Manukau ? Auckland ? North Shore ?
What we do ;;Sit-on-Top Kayaks ;;Sea Kayaks ;;Recreational Kayaks ;;White Water ;;Multisport ;;SUPs ;;Canoes ;;Inflatables ;;Kayak hire
;;Kayaking accessories ;;Tours ;;Kayak instruction ;;School groups ;;Corporate events ;;Team building ;;Multisport training ;;Coaching ;;Roof Racks
Canoe & Kayak Auckland 502 Sandringham Rd, Sandringham, Auckland 1025 09 815 2073 auckland@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Bay of Plenty 49 Totara St, Mount Maunganui, Tauranga, 3116 07 574 7415 bop@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Waikato 545 Te Rapa Rd Hamilton, 3200 07 850 1002 waikato@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak North Shore 2/20 Constellation Dr Mairangi Bay, Auckland, 0632 09 479 1002 northshore@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Taranaki 468 St Aubyn St, Moturoa, New Plymouth, 4310 06 751 2340 taranaki@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Wellington Unit F 2 Centennial Highway Ngauranga, Wellington, 6035 04 477 6911 wellington@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Manukau 605A Great South Rd Manukau, 2104 09 262 0209 manukau@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Taupo 54 Spa Rd Taupo, 3330 07 378 1003 taupo@canoeandkayak.co.nz
Canoe & Kayak Christchurch (Agency) 03 377 6161 027 376 6161 chch@canoeandkayak.co.nz
canoeandkayak.co.nz