A. LANGE & SÖHNE ALPINA ARMAND NICOLET AUDEMARS PIGUET BALL BASELWORLD BELL & ROSS BULGARI C A M PA N O L A C A R L F. B U C H E R E R CARRERA Y CARRERA C A RT I E R CHANEL CHRONOSWISS CITIZEN CLERC CONCORD CORUM de GRISOGONO DEWITT DIOR EBEL ETERNA FRANC VILA GEVRIL GIRARD-PERREGAUX GLASHÜTTE GUCCI H A M I LT O N H A R RY W I N S TO N H U B LOT IWC J A E G E R - L E C O U LT R E JEAN DUNAND JEANRICHARD KING JEWELERS KRIËGER LU M I N OX MAÎTRES DU TEMPS MAURICE LACROIX N OA NUBEO O R B I TA PA N E R A I PA R M I G I A N I P AT E K P H I L I P P E PIAGET RALPH LAUREN R E AC TO R RICHARD MILLE ROGER DUBUIS S E I KO SIHH SWA ROVS K I TUTIMA U LY S S E N A R D I N VA C H E R O N C O N S TA N T I N VA N C L E E F & A R P E L S WEMPE XEMEX ZENITH
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WATCH 12: 2009 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M
styling
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique: fine guilloché engraving, black Roman numerals against a silvery dial and Breguet-style hands.
[ JOURNAL ]
™
THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED
mechanism Caliber RL430, made by Piaget, powers the hour and minutes functions of the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique.
legacy
Despite the namesake’s personal fascination with timepieces, there has never been a Ralph Lauren watch−−until now.
Watch in black high-tech ceramic and 18K yellow gold. Self-winding mechanical movement custom-made by AUDEMARS PIGUET exclusively for CHANEL: CHANEL - AP3125 (40 jewels, 21’600 vibrations/hour). Rotor in black high-tech ceramic with a segment in rhodium-plated 22K yellow gold mounted on high-tech ceramic ball bearings. Balance with 8 giromax regulating weights. 60-hour power reserve.
CHANEL.COM • CHANEL BOUTIQUES • 800.550.0005
©2009 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®
The CFB A1000 automatic caliber with peripheral rotor. Leaves conventional movements behind.
The CFB A1000 caliber, developed and produced by Carl F. Bucherer, writes watchmaking history. Innovative use of traditional watchmaking expertise transforms this unique micro-mechanical device into the movement of the future. The ingenious self-winding system with its peripheral rotor provides an unimpeded view of the detail inside. This is craftsmanship at its finest, expressed through state-of-the-art technology and, in the Patravi EvoTec DayDate, set off to its best advantage. Its unmistakable design, with the large date and day-of-the-week display, places it firmly in the Carl F. Bucherer tradition of only making watches as unique as the people who wear them. www.carl-f-bucherer.com
LESTER AMPERT LESTERLAMPERT
L
®
c r eCreating a t i n g t hthe e eexceptional xceptional
57 EAST OAK STREET ‹‹ CHICAGO 800.228.9436
82 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K 212 439 4220 - 1-866-DEGRISO D UBAI - GENEVA - GSTAAD - H O N G K O N G - K U WA I T - L O N D O N - M O S C O W - NEW DELHI NEW YORK - PARIS - PORT O C E RV O - R O M E - S T B A RT H E L E M Y - S T M O R I T Z - T O KYO
w w w. d e g r i s o g o n o . c o m
+ QUICK READS T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 12.2009
WATC H J O U R N A L .COM
INDUSTRY WATCH
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The inside track from the world of watches—the brands, the business, the industry as a whole.
LUXE FINDER Watch Journal brings together top products from every corner of the luxury market.
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RICHARD MILLE
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MAÎTRES DU TEMPS
The Richard Mille limited edition RM004V2 split-seconds chronograph was developed with the input of Filipe Massa, Richard Mille’s Formula 1 test driver.
The new Riva 86-foot Domino is designed for those who love both sporty lines and simple style in a yacht.
The Maîtres du Temps Chapter One has a streamlined and ergonomic form that belies the complex mechanics within.
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FRANC VILA The Franc Vila FVa15 Column Regulator Automatic is a contemporary interpretation of the classic regulator.
EVENT WATCH Who's doing what, where and why: discover how the watch industry influences events, philanthropy and celebrity.
DIOR CHRISTAL
Sapphire crystal & diamonds WWW.DIOR.COM / 1 866 675 2078
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DRIVING TECHNOLOGY
THEN AND NOW
HOLIDAY GUIDE
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the special edition AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing, in conjunction with Aston Martin Racing, at the 2009 24 Hours of Le Mans.
The first high-speed automatic chronograph marks a milestone anniversary.
Jeweled masterpieces meet high horology, and fashion meets function in an array of giftable timepieces to please the watch connoisseur.
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VISIONARY VENTURE
RAISONS D’ETRE
SPANISH SUN
Innovative designer Ralph Lauren teams with Richemont Group’s Johann Rupert to bring his signature style to the luxury watch world.
Within a limited edition, a maker can flex its creative and horological “muscles” and create incredible pieces unlike any others.
Spain’s finest goldsmiths apply their alchemy to a pulse-quickening line of watches.
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ONE AND ONLY The third biennial Only Watch charity auction of exceptional timepieces raises millions in Monaco.
e ecutive
dual time
Self-winding. Patented time zone quick setting. Black ceramic bezel and 18 ct rose gold case. Water-resistant to 100 m. Rubber band.
W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M
F O R A C ATA L O G , C A L L 5 6 1 - 9 8 8 - 8 6 0 0 O R E M A I L : U S A 1 3 @ U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M
PADRAIG HARRINGTON British Open Champion 2007 British Open Champion 2008 PGA Champion 2008 European Tour Golfer of the Year 2007 European Tour Golfer of the Year 2008 PGA TOUR Player of the Year 2008 Unstoppable.
THE MAKING OF A LEGEND
44mm
Introducing
©2009 Citizen Watch Company
SIGNATURE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH 1/5 Second Chronograph Dual Time Alarm Anti-Reflective Sapphire Glass Crocodile Strap
CITIZEN ECO-DRIVE Fueled by light, it never needs a battery.
UNSTOPPABLE
citizen-signature.com
THORNTON & SONS JEWELERS VACAVILLE, CA 707.446.2370
MOYER FINE JEWELERS CARMEL, IN 317.844.9003
+ DEPARTMENTS T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 12.2009
WATC H J O U R N A L .COM
IN FOCUS A closer look at a significant model or design process; in this issue: Cosanova Design, page 40, and Bulgari, page 44.
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5 MINUTES WITH Notable personalities and the watches that make them tick; in this issue: Ben Southall, page 86, Harold Primat, page 88, and Alex Grinberg of Concord, page 90.
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IWC AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH
SEIKO SPACEWALK
IWC combines the dive watch and chronograph into a single timepiece to create the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph.
The Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk goes for $45,600 at Antiquorum.
ON THE COVER A bygone era of style is reflected in the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique, a slender silhouette of a watch with superb detailing.
S TA R T Y O U R R E V O L U T I O N
B A R C E L O N A
T O K Y O
M A D R I D
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F O R A U T H O R I Z E D D E A L E R S I N T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S P L E A S E V I S I T W W W . C A R R E R A Y C A R R E R A . C O M
MOS COW
THE MULTI-FACED CLASSIC FROM CARRERA Y CARRERA MATCH YOUR MOOD WITH TWO INTERCHANGEABLE GOLDSMITH-CRAFTED BEZELS
B A R C E L O N A
T O K Y O
M A D R I D
GENE VA
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F O R A U T H O R I Z E D D E A L E R S I N T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S P L E A S E V I S I T W W W . C A R R E R A Y C A R R E R A . C O M
MOS COW
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THE EVOLUTION
CONTINUES The launch of Watch Journal’s inaugural issue was by all accounts a remarkable success. Wonderfully, readers of InSync, the title from which Watch Journal evolved, responded with great enthusiasm to the new format, design and content, and new readers have responded positively and in large numbers as well. Watch Journal debuted at an unusual time. As one brand’s marketing executive remarked several months ago, upon learning of the upcoming launch, “I cannot think of a worse time to launch a new watch magazine!” In many ways, I couldn’t have agreed with her more. But times like these are not for timid leadership. The results speak for themselves. Newsstand sales of the premier issue of Watch Journal at Barnes & Noble were up 125 percent over InSync’s sales for the same issue last year. In addition, there was a significant uptick in new subscription requests in year-over-year comparison. Moreover, Watch Journal virtually flew off the racks at private jet airports where Sandow Media has placed its exclusive proprietary newsstands. No doubt about it, the launch was a resounding success. Now, we at Watch Journal are moving on with the task we have set for ourselves: to provide readers with the best in watch journalism by outdoing ourselves issue to issue. We will measure our success not by how we compare to the competition but rather by how we compare to our own previous best. We are excited about this latest edition of Watch Journal and hope you will be too. Your feedback is greatly appreciated, and I encourage you to let us know how we are doing and what we can do better. Send your comments directly to me at gb@watchjournal.com. — Glen B. Bowen PUBLISHER
Watch Journal Advisory Board Chairman Robert Filotei, former VP, Cartier, and former president, Piaget and Panerai; Stephane Barraque, president, Dior Watches; Andrew Block, executive SVP, Tourneau; Ralph Destino, former president, Cartier and Vendome NA; Richard Horne, president, Shreve & Company; Ronald Jackson, president, Girard-Perregaux USA and JeanRichard USA; Steven Kaiser, CEO/president, Kaiser Time; David King, owner, King Jewelers; Stacie Orloff, president, Bell & Ross; Jeremy Oster, president/owner, Oster Jewelers; Nick Stellino, president, Stellino Productions; Paul Ziff, president, Zenith NA
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THAN
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Y E A R S O F C O N T I N U O U S H I STO RY …
1791. When Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart composed ”The Magic Flute”, Vacheron Constantin was 36 years old.
PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE SELF-WINDING
Ø 38 mm pink gold case. Caliber 2455 Hallmark of Geneva. Self-winding mechanical movement. Date calendar at 3 o’clock. Running seconds at 9 o’clock. See-through caseback. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Silver-toned opaline dial. Water-resistant to 3 bars (~100 feet or 30 m).
…DEDICATED TO PERFECTION
87172/000R-9302
For information call 877-862-7555 - www.vacheron-constantin.com
WatchJournal_VC5533_PatTrad.indd 1
10/13/09 12:27 PM
© EPE, Reg. U. S. Pat & TM Off
Automatic movement Sapphire crystal Swiss made
VENTURA XXL ELVIS 速
www.hamiltonwatch.com 866-382-2471 ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION
[ J O U R N A L ]™ T H E WAT C H M AG A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D
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DESIGN DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNERS E D I TO R I A L D I R E CTO R I N T E R N AT I O N A L E D I T O R V I N TA G E W AT C H E D I T O R CONTRIBUTING EDITOR COPY CHIEF COPY EDITOR SENIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER SENIOR ADVERTISING PRODUCTION DESIGNER A S S O C I AT E G R A P H I C D E S I G N E R & P H O T O G R A P H E R PHOTO RETOUCHERS TRAFFIC MANAGER T R A F F I C C O O R D I N AT O R E D I T O R I A L C O O R D I N AT O R PHOTO EDITOR DIRECTOR OF CLIENT SERVICES CLIENT SERVICES EXECUTIVE CONTRIBUTORS
Dean Sebring Alvaro Diaz-Rubio, Valerie Sebring Marie A. Picon Keith W. Strandberg L. Michael Fultz Liz Ritter Genene Hirschhorn Emily Alice Sacks Timothy B. Wooten Svetlana G. Suarez James M. Weiner Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias Melissa C. Quiñones Isabelle Rios Kay Hodgdon Amanda Silversmith Tanya Suber Hayley Merrill John Biggs, Cathy Gordon, John B. Holbrook II, Bernie Libster, Stephen Priesthoff
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Scott R. Yablon James Dimonekas Yolanda E. Yoh Erik I. Herz Pamela Lerner Jaccarino Michael J. Ruskin Brian A. Yablon Joseph Alexander Fern E. Meshulam Lawrence Freeman Andrea Efland Kristen Delisio Shirley Cruz Stephanie Malmgren Julia Perez Jody L. Yablon Andrea Goldman Lisa Silver Monica Del Borrello Stephanie Brady Brian Wilpon Richard Bartho William Joey Green Christina Flick Rick Jacobs Andrea Ocampo, Tamas Szakal Maritza Severino, Carrie Yovell Christopher Ferris Max Kreutzer Ron Sklon
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Watch Journal™ is published bimonthly. Watch Journal™ is a registered trademark of InSync Media Group, a subsidiary of Sandow Media LLC. Copyright 2009, InSync Media Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal™ are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal™, InSync Media Group, Sandow Media LLC, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal™. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal™ have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal™.
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POSTMASTER Send address changes to: 3731 NW 8th Avenue, Boca Raton, FL 33431
Piaget Manufacture movement 880P Mechanical self-winding chronograph Flyback, dual time 100 meter water resistant Titanium, sapphire case-back Rubber strap
www.piagetpolo.com
1-877-8PIAGET - NEW YORK BAL HARBOUR LAS VEGAS SOUTH COAST PLAZA
+ INDUSTRY WATCH
WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES
IN-HOME DEMO FOR THE GLOBAL ERA
Montblanc International opened one of its grandest new flagship boutiques in the heart of Paris’s Haute Joaillerie district on October 1st. The 1,640square-foot boutique is found at number 7 Rue de la Paix, a short distance from the iconic Place Vendôme. It is Montblanc’s largest European boutique and one of only 15 so-called “4810” boutiques, which offer exclusive collections, bespoke pieces, limited editions, and precious and rare one-of-akind pieces in high jewelry, watches and writing instruments. Reflecting Montblanc's ongoing commitment to arts and culture,
+
A PIECE OF LA PAIX
MONTBLANC: opened one of its grandest new flagship boutiques in the heart of Paris’s Haute Joaillerie district the Rue de la Paix location will become a place of cultural exchange. Original artworks from Montblanc’s Cutting Edge Art Collection will be displayed on a rotating basis. In addition, Montblanc will encourage emerging artists by showcasing their talents and exhibiting their works on site. 800.995.4810, montblanc.com
Linde Werdelin now offers its customers around the world the chance to experience new collections through its Test Set option. The Test Set is a unique private viewing opportunity that lets potential buyers put the functions of the Linde Werdelin watches through their paces for five days with no obligation. Customers simply complete a short loan form on the Linde Werdelin Web site, then wait for the chosen watch model to arrive. Because the Test Set program is designed to be hassle-free, return of the set is also simple if testers decide not to purchase. Jorg Werdelin, brand co-founder and managing director explains, “We wanted everyone to be able to hold our products in their own hands, to feel the craftsmanship of the watch on the wrist. The Test Set allows potential customers to have that, no matter where they are in the world.” Smart marketing, too. In Europe, where the program rolled out first, 92 percent of testers have opted to own the watch. 888.894.4255, lindewerdelin.com
the private in-store cocktail party that evening. FFAWN was created in 2007 to use Blige’s personal story and success to inspire women from all walks of life to reach their individual potential. Through scholarships, grants and programs that foster strong self-esteem, career development, and personal growth, FFAWN helps women gain the confidence and skills they need to achieve success. To advance the cause and as a symbol of the partnership, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini designed a limited edition black PVD Twirl watch. Gucci will donate a portion of sales of the limited edition Twirl watch, which is available in Gucci stores and select department and specialty stores in the US and Canada. “I am so grateful to Frida and Gucci for their extraordinary kindness and generosity,” says Blige. “In recognizing its responsibility to give back, Gucci sets a great example in the luxury world.” 201.867.8800, gucci.com
FUN AND FUNDRAISING
Luxury giant Gucci donated a percentage of the day’s sales from its Fifth Avenue New York flagship to the Foundation for the Advancement of Women Now, Inc. (FFAWN) on September 16th. The project was the result of a partnership between Gucci and recording artist and FFAWN founder Mary J. Blige, as was
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Gucci limited edition black PVD Twirl watch
THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION. LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS GMT AUTOMATIC Automatic mechanical movement P.9001 calibre, two spring barrels, second time zone, 3-day power reserve indicator on the back, seconds reset. Water-resistance 300 metres. Steel case 44 mm Ø. Steel bracelet.
www.panerai.com
Available exclusively at Panerai Boutiques and select authorized watch specialists. NEW YORK BOUTIQUE .-. FZ]blhg :o^gn^ +*+&++,&*./+ BEVERLY HILLS BOUTIQUE 2-2): ;kb`amhg PZr ,*)&++1&*.*.
+ INDUSTRY WATCH
WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES
technical challenges behind the creation of each. 877.826.2533, vancleef-arpels.com AVAILABLE WORLDWIDE
Representatives of the international press were summoned to Moscow on September 25th to witness an announcement of an important new partnership by Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet: a newly established association with the celebrated Bolshoi Theatre. Audemars Piguet CEO Philippe Merk— joined by Anatoly Iksanov, Bolshoi Theatre general director, and Jasmine Audemars, president of the Audemars Piguet Board of Directors— revealed the partnership that will span the next three seasons. The brand also announced that principal dancer Svetlana Zakharova is its newest ambassador. Founded in Moscow in 1776, the Bolshoi is one of the world’s most respected performing arts organizations. Commenting on the partnership, Audemars Piguet’s Merk says, “The Bolshoi is a powerful symbol of Russia and its culture. It has earned incredible fame based on foundations very similar to Audemars Piguet’s— artistic creativity, excellence,
+
MOSCOW MOMENT
SVETLANA ZAKHAROVA: the newest ambassador for Audemars Piguet.
and the meticulous approach of its performers—along with the quality and originality of performances at theatres around the world.” The association advances the watch brand’s support of arts and culture and strengthens its presence in an important world market. 888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com
enameled pieces and high jewelry watches, pieces that tell stories in addition to telling time. The volume draws upon the contributions of experts such as Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie president Franco Cologni and philosopher Michael Serres, but its main focus is on incredible photography of a spectacular collection of watches and on the
BETWEEN TWO COVERS
The legendary jewelry house of Van Cleef & Arpels marks this holiday season by launching a new visual anthology this December. The collector’s hardcover book, titled The Poetry of Time, chronicles the French jeweler’s history in fine watchmaking, following the evolution from the unique watches of its earliest days— jewels that tell time—to its newest complications,
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Seiko has launched a new Web site dedicated to its new Ananta line. Because Ananta is an elite collection using both Spring Drive electromechanical movements and high-quality mechanical movements, there is a lot of material to explore, but with fast-loading video and interactive features, the site is designed to be a pleasure to navigate. Its Mechanism area provides detailed explanations about the movements with videos and still images illustrating key points. More detail is revealed in the Process and Design sections, sure to appeal to the enthusiast. The Inspiration section explains the centuries-old Japanese swordmaking tradition of katana and how its precision, artistry, parabolic curves and sharpness are mirrored in the Ananta. And if the above content does its job, visitors will be eager to use the international store locator that is included. seiko-ananta.com ANONIMO’S INVESTORS
Anonimo Firenze, the Florencebased watchmaker famous for its handmade cases and use of unique metals and coatings, has been acquired by a group of investors comprising Anonimo enthusiasts and watch industry professionals with expertise in the manufacture, marketing and distribution of luxury goods. The brand will continue to be distributed in North
CHRONOMASTER OPEN GRANDE DATE EL PRIMERO MOVEMENT ZENITH Inventor of the automatic chronograph WWW.ZENITH-WATCHES.COM 866 675 2079
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BOSTON LOGAN AIRPORT: the second Mondaine clock to be erected in one year’s time in the Boston area.
+ BIG SCREEN DEBUT
America and the Caribbean by Anonimo USA. Commenting on the developments, Anonimo USA president Scott Moskovitz says, “The acquisition expands opportunities and resources as we look forward to strengthening and building the brand.” 615.665.8330, anonimousa.com
receiver, which receives the time signal via satellite and sets the time automatically with one-millisecond precision. The clock at Logan Airport is the second Mondaine clock to be
erected in one year’s time in the Boston area. In October 2008, Mondaine, along with its Harvard Square retail partner, installed its first Mondaine Official Railways Clock with GPS in the US. It marks the entrance to the Swiss Watchmaker store on Church Street. 800.858.5215, mondaine.com
ON-TIME FLIGHT
DENZEL WASHINGTON: wears
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A Mondaine clock has been permanently erected in the international terminal of Boston Logan Airport. Long a fixture in Swiss railway stations, the iconic clock with the red seconds hand has come to signify accuracy and reliability for generations of European travelers. The Mondaine airport clock was introduced this past summer as part of an exhibit of Swiss scientific achievements. It is a double-sided, backlit clock 24 inches in diameter, linked to a Global Positioning System (GPS)
the BALL Trainmaster Cleveland Express in The Taking of Pelham 123.
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BALL Watch Company made its big screen debut with the BALL Trainmaster Cleveland Express worn by Denzel Washington who plays Walter Garber in The Taking of Pelham 123. BALL has been associated with the American railroads since it was founded by Webb C. Ball in 1891. And the connection continues: the COSC-certified day/date watch featured in the product placement is part of a collection dedicated to the high-speed rail service that linked New York City to the Midwest. Jeffrey Hess, president of BALL Watch USA notes, “Many highlevel railroad employees have worn BALL watches from the late 1800s through the present day. Railroad men were considered heroes of the expanding USA, just as Walter Garber is today.” 727.896.4278, ballwatchusa.com
Š2009 Citizen Watch Company of America, Inc.
As functional art... this is a masterpiece.
Perpetual Calendar. Case, dial, band and movement are crafted and hand assembled by master watchmakers. From cutting and hand polishing its case, to minutely finishing its precision parts, the exceptional beauty of a Campanola is born.
www.campanola-timepieces.com
AVAILABLE AT
CORAL GABLES, FL 305-445-7525
KANSAS CITY, MO 816-531-5591
Perpetual calendar spanning 100 years past to 100 years future. Dual curved sapphire crystal. Crocodile Band. Case: 45mm.
+ INDUSTRY WATCH
WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES
deMonaco tourbillon
LUXURY IS LIFE
READY FOR A CLOSE-UP
The world’s most famous female pilot, Amelia Earhart was the first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic. She disappeared while attempting to make a solo circumnavigation of the globe in 1937. This October, a movie based on her life opens starring two-time Academy Awardwinner Hilary Swank in the title role and a Hamilton watch in a supporting role. Because Earhart actually wore a Hamilton, Hamilton was approached by the producers about providing a watch, and the brand, having supplied watches to more than 350 movie productions in the past, was more than happy to oblige. The Amelia watch is a
38mm stainless steel Khaki Field Automatic with a vintage look that is appropriate to the period. Hamilton is also participating in the promotion of the movie, offering the 38mm in stainless steel and a 40mm gunmetal version with a black dial and orange accents. Point of purchase displays in Hamilton retailers will feature the Amelia poster and other visual displays. “We are pleased that the producers wanted to be historically accurate,” says Hamilton president Matthias Breschan. And Hamilton watches are always ready for their close-ups. 800.234.8463, hamiltonwatch.com
Ateliers deMonaco is a new independent watch manufacturer making its home in Monaco. The brand’s nouvelle horlogerie targets a new generation with timepieces derived from a passion for challenging conventions and creating a legacy. Inspired by the people, scenery and creative heritage of Monaco, and the tension and dualism of the Côtes d’Azur, deMonaco timepieces are studies in contrasts. Some of the defining characteristics are avant-garde case design, traditional hand finishing, a patented tourbillon movement with silicon escapement and lever, and a perfectly balanced tourbillon cage. The watches and their
The BlackOut SEAL from Luminox
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movements are completely designed and manufactured inhouse, using parts produced by deMonaco or by specialized Swiss suppliers. It’s part of the brand’s commitment to high quality and its core belief that life may not be about luxury, but luxury surely is life. ateliers-demonaco.com BLACKOUT ALERT
California-based Luminox is busy rolling out new versions of its already-military-inspired extreme visibility wristwatches. The BlackOut SEAL watch, part of the brand’s 3050 EVO Navy SEAL collection, features a matte black dial with polished black numerals ($295). The BlackOut Stealth in black PVDcoated stainless steel pays homage to the eponymous jet fighter and is as sleek in its styling as the jet ($850). Luminox is known for luminescent dials, so the notion of going dark would seem contrary, but despite their dark surface treatments, the dials still glow continuously for more than 25 years thanks to proprietary Luminox Light Technology. 800.858.5215, luminox.com
More than meets the eye.
Pontos DĂŠcentrique GMT.
Unique design concept, formed by its off-centre indications and spherical effects. Patented date indication developed by Maurice Lacroix. Innovative second time zone with day and night indication.
To locate an authorized dealer near you, please dial 1-800-794-7736 or visit us at www.mauricelacroix.com
+ IN FOCUS
COSANOVA DESIGN | TALkING WATCH DeSIGN WITH CLAUDIO D’AmORe
TexT By: KEITH W. STRANDBERG
Watch design can be a baffling subject to be sure. I’m speaking
here of the visible, external product design, the style, the dimensions, the proportions, all the elements that come together to form an aesthetic and attract our attention to a timepiece. And while it doesn’t require the same sort of mechanical engineering that the inside of a modern watch does, watch design entails its own kind of technical prowess; it involves combining myriad details into a statement-making unified whole within the limits of a very small space. No one knows this better than Claudio D’Amore, the founder of Cosanova Product Design, a Swiss design firm specializing in watches. D’Amore established Cosanova (a name signifying a “new thing”) in 2004 after working for a time with well-known Londonbased industrial designer Ross Lovegrove, one of whose clients was TAG Heuer. As a product design firm, Cosanova undertakes projects in categories ranging from electronics to jewelry, but it has developed something of a specialty by serving clients in the watch industry. And located in Lausanne, Switzerland, not far from Geneva, it is well situated to do so. “Eighty percent
of what Cosanova does is watches,” D’Amore explains. D’Amore studied at the University of Art and Design in Lausanne, and was initially most interested in furniture design. But over time, he turned his attention to the small everyday objects that enhance the quality of life for people and make them smile. He says, “I like products people touch (watches, jewelry, handbags, mobile phones, electronics and so on). I love watches; they are jewels for men. I loved them from the day I started working on them and realized the extreme detail involved.” Some of Cosanova’s clients in the watch
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Eterna Contessa collection
Eberhard 120ème anniversaire collection
industry have included Hautlence, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Parmigiani Fleurier, Concord and Van Cleef & Arpels. In total, the firm counts 15 watch brands among its clients. “The biggest challenge for us is that there are so many watches and every client wants something new,” D’Amore continues. “We work hard to find innovation in watches, to find the proper character, the balance between all the little elements. It is detail that makes the difference.” “We work on entire watches as well as parts of watches (dials, hands, etc.),” he details. “We often work on a bestseller that needs only small changes. In such cases, there should be only enough change to make a difference. This is a huge challenge, to create evolutionary designs that build on the core of a brand.” Today, some companies employ in-house designers, while others do not. However, even those manufacturers that do have designers on staff often go outside the company in a
Claudio D’Amore
Hautlence The design of this watch finds its inspiration in the aesthetics of machined engine parts. Moodboard In the studio you’ll find a big board on which anyone can pin pictures or items. This patchwork evolves over time and is a constant inspiration for the team.
D ES I G N CO N F I D E N T I A L
Asked whether working with a number of brands raises issues of confidentiality, Claudio D’Amore of Cosanova Product Design answers that protecting the intellectual property of clients is a top priority. And clients who wish to remain anonymous can fully expect to have those wishes honored. “It’s difficult for a watch brand to trust a new designer, so we make it easy for a client to say no and walk away,” D’Amore admits. “So far, no client has done that, but it’s important that they know they can. One of our strengths is that we work hard to know the client. A client has to be able to trust us, and we take every precaution to provide clients with confidentiality.”
Parmigiani
Eterna Kontiki: design of chrono and three-hand dials based on historical model.
Kalpagraph
quest for fresh ideas. D’Amore describes the process: “Following a briefing from the client, we begin work to meet their specific needs. Brand to brand, everything is different. Each brand has its particular DNA. TAG Heuer, for example, is very male and very sporty. It has a recognizable aesthetic. It’s always a challenge to keep new products in the design family. We look for details that make the aesthetic link. We work extremely hard to find things that fit with the brand.” It’s important to D’Amore that he and his colleagues at Cosanova understand the watch production process, so that they can understand what is possible in terms of design and what is practical in terms of cost. They also need to know what won’t work. And that necessarily involves another universe of details. “We need to know how molds are made, how cases are finished and so on,” he says. What inspires D’Amore? “I am inspired
Eterna Contessa: a feminine and elegant Art Deco–inspired design respectful of the maker’s history.
by volume and by natural shapes, and I like the world of nanotechnology,” he explains. “I also find inspiration in the detail of nature—insect wings with very beautiful shapes as well as textures that I would like to apply to watches. Nature is the king of design. I do a lot of hiking and walking. It’s important to be out of the office from time to time to be alone and to think and create. It takes a long time for some ideas to come forward. Sometimes they need to turn in the brain for some time, even for years. There are some personal projects I have been working on for more than three years.” When he is in the office, D’Amore loves the unending variety of his daily work, and he believes that with each passing day, he becomes a better designer. “Every day, I am a bit more ‘right’ about the product,” he says. “If a product is to sell, I want to make sure it sells. Some companies want a talking piece; others want a watch that will sell well. Our job is to give each client what it wants.”
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T H E P R O C ES S
The design process is the constant in D’Amore’s work. He applies the same basic process to each new project, regardless of the particular product or sector involved. In broad terms, here’s what’s involved.
Step 1: Research of images of reference – Inspired by photos and objects, the designers begin by sketching numerous ideas. Step 2: Design research – Based on their sketches, the designers create 2-D computer drawings of about 20 options. Step 3: Research of materials, textures and finishing from the firm’s materials bank takes place. Step 4: 3-D development – Once a direction has been selected from the 2-D computer drawings, a 3-D computer model is created, and the design is evaluated from every angle. Step 5: Rapid prototyping – From the 3-D files, a plastic model is created in order to validate the proportions of the object. Step 6: Final prototyping – Once the product design is finalized, a metal prototype is made for a last round of fine-tuning before entering production.
ELI MANNING, MVP, Champion Quarterback
UNSTOPPABLE. Limited Edition Chrono-Time A-T 1/5 Second Chronograph
ELI MANNING IS. So is his Citizen Eco-Drive.
Fueled by light, it never needs a battery. IT’S UNSTOPPABLE. Just like the people who wear it.
©2009 Citizen Watch Company
45 mm
AVAILABLE AT SELECT FINE JEWELRY & DEPARTMENT STORES
+ IN FOCUS
BULGARI | ANCIENT MEETS MODERN
The limited edition
Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annuel by Bulgari is part of the Sotirio Bulgari collection, named in honor of the famed luxury brand’s founder and designed to mark his company’s 125th anniversary. The 18-karat rose gold watch, Ref. SBP42BGLAC, is 42mm in diameter and features automatic manufacture Caliber BVL 360, comprising 360 components, including 32 jewels, and offering 55-hour power reserve. Its annual calendar function indicates retrograde date on a 225-degree sector.
The Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annuel is fitted with a black alligator strap.
The lugs are a distinguishing feature of the Sotirio Bulgari collection. Integrated into the case at converging angles, their construction gives them strength despite minimal contact area with the case.
Valued at $36,600, No. 1/250 will be auctioned at Christie’s in New York on December 8th, along with six other one-ofa-kind watches and 11 unique jewelry creations. Proceeds from the sale go to Save the Children’s Rewrite the Future campaign for education. Through this and other fundraising activities, the brand aims to raise €10 million in support of Save the Children by the end of this year. bulgari.com, christies.com
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A white gold version is produced in a limited edition of 125 examples.
I CO N The BVLGARI logo first appeared on watches in 1977 and was later integrated into the design of the brand’s watches and jewelry, becoming an icon in its own right. It is notably absent from the bezels of the Sotirio Bulgari collection watches, which are intended to present a new standard for the formal watch.
Sotirio Bulgari
“To be a success, you have to combine the worlds of the past, present and the future. That is the challenge, and there are many horizons.” — Nicola Bulgari, brand vice-chairman and grandson of the founder
I TA L I A N J E W E L S A highlight of the anniversary year was a summertime exhibit titled Between Eternity and History at the Palazzo delle Esposizione in Rome. Learn more at bulgari.com.
H A U T E
H O R L O G E R I E
A U T H E N T I Q U E
l a collec tion
pershing
www.parmigiani.com
LUXE FINDER WATCH JOURNAL’S CURATED SELECTION OF THE HOTTEST WATCHES AND MOST LUXURIOUS PRODUCTS
ROLLS-ROYCE GHOST MAÎTRES DU TEMPS CHAPTER ONE BUBEN & ZORWEG X-007 COLLECTOR SAFE
CARTIER SANTOS 100 CARBON CHRONOGRAPH OVEI POD GUCCI MARINA CHAIN ABARTH 695 TRIBUTO FERRARI
RICHARD MILLE RM004-V2 EBEL CLASSIC HEXAGON RIVA DOMINO YACHT FRANC VILA FVa15 COLUMN REGULATOR AUTOMATIC
e-WOLF e-2 SUPERCAR GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR CHRONOMETER HUBLOT ALL BLACK BIKE
CARL F. BUCHERER PATRAVI T-CHRONOGRADE BALL TRAINMASTER CLEVELAND EXPRESS POWER RESERVE DEWITT ACADEMIA TOURBILLON FORCE CONSTANTE MECANICA
ORREFORS ARCTIC JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVING PRO GEOGRAPHIC NAVY SEALS
EUROCOPTER EC135 HERMÈS MV AGUSTA BRUTALE 1090RR
48 49 50 51 52 53 54
55 56 57 58 59 60 62
63 64 66
67 68
69 70
LUXE FINDER
GHOST DRIVER
The new Ghost is the essence of Rolls-Royce in its simplest, purest form. Every inch delivers the power of simplicity. Price: from $245,000, rolls-roycemotorcars.com
POWER Coupled with the 8-speed ZF gearbox, the engine accelerates from 0 to 62 mph in just 4.9 seconds and has a governed top-speed of 155 mph. RESTRAINT The classic Rolls-Royce proportions are all present and correct: the 2:1 ratio of the height of the wheels to the height of the body; the long wheelbase and bonnet; the short front overhang and long overhang at the rear. Powered by a new twin turbo 6.6-liter V12 engine, it is virtually silent, with 80 percent of its torque available from idle.
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LUXE FINDER
SIMPLICITY Unique roller indications of the phases of the moon and the days of the week are large enough to be easily read and small enough to be ultralight and homogeneous with the case.
COMPLEXITY The black dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes and chronograph seconds hand, tourbillon at 6, retrograde GMT at 9, 60-minute chronograph counter at 12, and retrograde date at 3.
NEW
The MaĂŽtres du Temps Chapter One in white gold is a variation on the original rose gold Chapter One wristwatch with a streamlined and ergonomic form that belies the complex mechanics within. Price: $400,000, 570.970.8888, maitresdutemps.com
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LUXE FINDER
PLAY IT
Buben & Zorweg’s X-007 collector safe uses a unique electrical elevating system for perfect presentation and is suitable for connection to a home alarm system. Price: $134,000, 43.3685.224.80, buben-zorweg.com
SAFE
FLEXIBILITY The X-007 is approximately 1,068 pounds (480kg) and holds up to 25 watches; in addition, there are two side drawers for presentation, LED lighting and a lockable shatterproof glass door.
MUSCLE A PAXOS compact security locking system used in this safe is also used in bank vaults. A mechanical winch provides an alternative method of elevating the safe interior in the case of a power failure.
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LUXE FINDER
TECHNOLOGY The black color of the satin-finished case is the result of a special plasmaassisted vapor deposit process. Cartier uses an ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) coating that combines carbon with hydrogen to create this finish. The titanium bezel has a matte finish and visible screw heads in ADLC-coated steel.
STYLE The black dial and black toile de voile strap expand upon the theme of color and texture set by the finishing of the case. A security clasp in titanium and steel is also coated with ADLC.
POWER The automatic mechanical Cartier Calibre 8630 powers the hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph functions.
STYLE
SQUARED Cartier’s 100th year in America ushers in a new take on the classic Santos timepiece, the Santos 100 Carbon Chronograph. Titanium and rose gold combine with high-tech finishes in a mechanical chronograph that is water-resistant to 100 meters. Price: $11,600, 800.CARTIER, cartier.com
LUXE FINDER
MULTI
MEDIA The Ovei is an experience. This personal, state-of-the-art digital media capsule provides a highly refined, immersive, integrated environment designed to allow a user to experience and interact with any media source. Price: from $39,000, ovei.co.uk
ENVIRONMENT
INTERACTIVE
Each capsule offers a sanctuary. Enveloping 5.1 surround sound, ambient lighting, climate control and an HD flat-screen display provide the ultimate environment for computer gaming, Web browsing, watching films, listening to music, videoconferencing and other experiences.
Conceived by British designer Lee McCormack and engineered by the McLaren F1 Team, Ovei unites the excitement of ubiquitous media with the power of experiential and sensory technology.
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LUXE FINDER
GOLD
STANDARD The Marina Chain, a famous Gucci symbol adorning accessories and jewelry, is celebrated in a collection of stylish timepieces featuring the highly iconic motif. Price: $16,800, 800.456.7663, gucci.com
CURVY The oval case encloses a Ronda 751/H1 quartz movement and is accented with 24 diamonds, totaling 0.4 carats. The black lacquered dial is covered by a curved sapphire crystal.
INTRIGUING The Marina Chain motif, interpreted here in 18-karat gold with enamel and diamonds by Frida Giannini, first appeared in the 1960s, inspired by yachting, a favorite pastime of the Florentine clientele of Guccio Gucci.
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LUXE FINDER
MINI
A collaboration between two Fiat subsidiaries, the Abarth 695 Tributo Ferrari is Abarth’s passport into the luxury sportscar market and Ferrari’s solution to urban mobility. abarth.it
FERRARI PERFORMANCE
Passion for performance is evident in the 1.4 Turbo T-Jet 16-valve engine, which is tuned to deliver more than 180 hp and 168 lb-ft or torque in this high-performance remake of the Abarth 500. An electromechanical gearbox with race-inspired paddle gearshift reduces gearshift times.
STYLE Ferrari-inspired 17-inch alloy wheels are mounted with performance tires, and racing style influences details such as door mirrors in carbon fiber and rear air intakes in Racing Grey. The exterior is available in one color: Scuderia Red.
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LUXE FINDER SMOOTH The split-seconds mechanism has been optimized to virtually eradicate the jumping of the chronograph hands when starting and stopping, resulting in a timekeeping instrument of irreproachable reliability and precision.
RARE The limited edition of 40 pieces comprises 25 pieces in 18-karat rose gold, 10 pieces in 18-karat white gold and five in titanium.
ON
TRACK
Developed with the input of Filipe Massa, test driver and collaborator for Richard Mille’s Formula 1, The Richard Mille limited edition RM004-V2 split-seconds chronograph is ready for the racetrack. Price: $230,000, 310.205.5555, richardmille.com
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LUXE FINDER
CHIC CASUAL
The Ebel Classic Hexagon in rose gold exudes contemporary refinement through the gentle glow of its precious metal case. Price: $16,900, 800.920.3153, ebel.com
OVERSIZED The handsome 45.4 mm case has mono-hull construction, visible screws and alternating brushed and polished finishes. It houses a Swiss automatic Soprod 9094.
FUNCTIONAL The silver-colored galvanic dial displays the date at 3 on a retrograde scale, the remaining power reserve at 6 and the day of the week at 9.
UNDERSTATED Clous de Paris engraving on the indicators at 6 and 9 and hand-applied hour markers are the subtle decorative elements of the dial.
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LUXE FINDER
PERFORMANCE Fitted with twin 2435hp MTU engines and a system for managing and controlling all on-board functions, the Domino guarantees excellent performance with a top speed of 38 knots and a cruise speed of 34.
COMFORT Owner and guests enjoy more space and a number of different areas for socializing, characteristics that make this yacht ideal for both long cruises and daily life on board.
DOMINO EFFECT
Designed for those who love both sporty lines and simple style in a yacht, the new Riva 86-foot Domino is an evolution of the 63-foot Vertigo and 68-foot Ego Super models. Price: on request, rivaboats.com
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LUXE FINDER
FUNCTION The self-winding, hand-finished FV15 movement drives the date display and the regulator-style hours, minutes and seconds displays of the meteorite, brushed metal and sapphire crystal dial. FORM The maker’s characteristic Esprit Unique case is 58.4 mm x 42.5 mm and rendered in titanium with a DieHard Extreme Steel bezel. The case is water-resistant to 100 meters. Production is limited to 88 pieces.
THE LINEUP The Franc Vila FVa15 Column Regulator Automatic is a contemporary interpretation of the classic regulator and the first Franc Vila timepiece with a meteorite dial. Price: $19,000, 949.788.6200, francvila.com
058 058
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LUXE FINDER
ELECTRIC AVENUE The distinctive design of German manufacturer e-WOLF’s e-2 Supercar, expected in 2011, is a charismatic interplay between rational, technological design and energetic speed and handling. It’s an extreme sports car powered by four electric motors—one at each wheel. ewolf-car.com
MOTION
RANGE
Lightweight and powerful—the e-2 weighs in under 1,985 lbs and features 536 hp and 738 pound-feet of torque—the two-seater reaches a top speed of 250 km/h. Carbon consumption is zero, assuming solar charging of the power source.
A CERIO flat cell Li-Tech battery is a key component. This innovative energy storage technology provides peak power of 400 kW on a 30-minute charge for a range of more than 300 km.
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LUXE FINDER SYNCHED The redesigned Glash端tte Original manualwinding Caliber 58-01 facilitates precise synchronization of the minutes and seconds hands by introducing a novel stopseconds/reset mechanism.
PRECISE A sophisticated enhancement created by the watch designers enables the date display to advance instantly, precisely at midnight.
SYNCHRONIZED
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The Original Senator Chronometer by Glash端tte Original presents a classic appearance reminiscent of a pocket chronometer and has received confirmation of its accuracy in the form of an official chronometer certification. Price: $26,900 in rose gold, $28,000 in white gold, 866.203.8699, glashutte.de
spring drive. to build the world’s best chronograph, we first had to reinvent the motion of time.
dedicated to perfection ANANTA. More than 30 years ago, a SEIKO engineer dreamed of a new kind of watch that would reflect the natural, continuous flow of time. 28 years of R&D later, Spring Drive was born, the only watch in the world with glide motion. Today, Spring Drive sets a new standard in luxury chronographs, capturing the exact elapsed time, not just to the nearest fraction, with an accuracy 5 times greater than any mechanical chronometer. With a design inspired by Katana, the ancient Japanese art of sword making, the perfect chronograph is no longer a dream. SeikoUSA.com
FORDS JEWELERS - 732.738.7322 - www.fordsjewelers.com M.J. MILLER - 847.381.7900 - www.mjmillerjewelers.com WORLD LUX - 888.585.3579 - www.worldlux.com
LUXE FINDER
LIGHT
FAST
The overall weight of the All Black bike is just 6.9 kg
The BMC SLT01 frame is built of carbon fiber and aluminum with 48 SL carbon forks. 11-speed Campagnolo SuperRecord groupset; DT Carbon RRC Aero wheels.
NIGHT RIDER Swiss watchmaker Hublot puts its name to a diverse range of products. The distinctive All Black bike is made from innovative materials created using state-of-the-art technology. The result is an exceptionally light, rigid bike, in which each component is designed and adapted to create a coherent whole, which allows the optimal transfer of energy. The pedal bearings contain ceramic material to reduce friction, and the frame is made from carbon fiber for strength and rigidity. Price: $20,000, 800.536.0636, hublot.ch
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LUXE FINDER
TURN BACK
TIME
Carl F. Bucherer’s Patravi T-ChronoGrade integrates six useful functions—chronograph, flyback, large date display, annual calendar, power reserve indication and retrograde hours counter—into a single harmonious display. Price: $14,700, 800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com
DISPLAY The chronograph’s retrograde hours counter distinguishes this watch from other chronographs and is the inspiration for its model name.
MECHANISM Automatic caliber CFB 1902 is housed inside a generous 43 mm x 46 mm tonneaushaped stainless steel case with a screw-down crown and an antireflective sapphire crystal.
INNOVATION A high/low scale and a twin-arm pointer set on a disc indicate the watch’s remaining power; this unusual display was developed by Carl F. Bucherer.
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LUXE FINDER
EXPRESS LANE
The Ball Trainmaster Cleveland Express Power Reserve pays homage to the men who ensured that the railroads ran smoothly. Price: $3,899, 727.896.4278, ballwatchusa.com
LOOKS
PERSONALITY
The 43 mm stainless steel case is 12.5 mm thick and is attached to a leather strap or optional stainless steel bracelet.
The Ball 3513 movement powers the 42-hour power reserve and big date displays of the black or silver dial, featuring 15 luminous micro gas tubes and protected by an antireflective sapphire crystal.
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SR 41
75 H ·C
s
pu
O
nd ra
G
Voyeurs wanted. For men who dare venture beyond the obvious. The Grand Opus. The first ever automatic chronograph with hand engraved movement and pantograficly hand skeletonized dial. Originally only in XL with onion shape crown and sapphire see through back. Clever men know true beauty lies in the details. www.chronoswiss-na.com · Call (609) 375-2146
LUXE FINDER
ENHANCED DeWitt’s constant-force principle involves integrating a regularity-enhancing additional mechanism within the movement. The constant-force device serves to transmit regular and identical energy impulses, whatever the degree of tension of the mainspring.
REVEALED The upper part of the black sunburst dial displays a car radiator-grille motif surrounded by a rhodium-plated ring. Openings revealing the tourbillon and the constant-force device of the manual-winding mechanical DW8003 movement are fitted with tinted glass.
SHOW OF
FORCE
With its Academia Tourbillon Force Constante Mecanica, DeWitt enriches its constant-force tourbillon: the regulating system has been revisited and redesigned and can now be admired on the dial of this new model. Price: $199,000 in rose gold, $209,000 in white gold, 305.572.9812, dewitt.ch
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LUXE FINDER
WINTER WONDER
Inspired by Sweden in winter, particularly by the dynamics of ice, the Arctic bowl is created by Orrefors in heavy crystal. The pieces radiate tradition as well as clean-lined beauty. Price: $125 small, $185 medium, orrefors.us
REFLECTION “You make something in cooperation with this unique material, which has no limitations: as malleable when cold as when it is hot, in liquid form. The light is caught and refracted in the most amazing ways. Anything seems feasible, and I discover more each day!” —Erika Lagerbielke, designer
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LUXE FINDER
SEA
LEVEL
The Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic Navy SEALs by JaegerLeCoultre is built for the serious diver. Price: in rose gold, articulated rubber bracelet, $45,000, 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com
DEPTH Compression keys seal the crowns at 2 and 4, contributing to a 1,000meter water-resistance rating. A special chamber on the left caseside houses a depth sensor.
MECHANICAL HEIGHTS The automatic mechanical JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 979 movement is crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. Functions include hours, minutes, date, 24-hour second time zone, depth gauge and a movement operating indicator.
BREADTH The 46.3 mm in 18-karat rose gold has a ceramic dive bezel and Navy SEALs engraving on the caseback.
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LUXE FINDER
BOARDING
Svelte and futuristic, the Eurocopter EC135 Hermès is a powerful, lightweight, twin-engine helicopter. It’s also a singular experiment in collaborative engineering and design between Eurocopter engineers and Hermès designers and craftsmen. eurocopter.com
CALL
SPACE Up to five passengers enjoy an exceptionally fast, smooth ride, thanks to a bearingless main rotor and innovative Fenestron® tail rotor system. Oversized sliding doors enable passengers to easily board and exit, and rear clamshell doors make luggage storage simple.
LUXURY The interior is as impeccable as an Hermès jacket, perfect even down to the invisible stitching of its leather. Like the exterior, the cabin reflects the finesse of Hermès craftsmen and offers the passenger comfort, refinement and functionality.
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LUXE FINDER
POWERFUL
INSTRUMENTAL
The 1078cc four-cylinder engine with 16 radial valves provides smooth power delivery with response that is more progressive, solid, and harmonious than before, especially when opening/closing and when accelerating.
The lines of the instrument cluster are in keeping with the modern, slender features of the bodywork. Instruments work in conjunction with an engine control module via a high-speed CAN line. Two large LCD screens provide high legibility.
BRUTE FORCE
The first major redesign of the MV Agusta Brutale since its introduction nearly a decade ago succeeds in retaining the naked bike’s identity while replacing 85 percent of the components with improved MV Agusta– designed parts. The 1090RR for 2010 offers a more powerful engine as well as a lighter and more rigid chassis. Price: $18,000, mvagustausa.com
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authorized dealer > Alpina > Bell & Ross > Breitling > BRM > Bulgari > Cartier > Chanel > Chopard > Chronographe Suisse > Concord > Corum > Ebel > Girard-Perregaux > Franc Vila > Harry Winston > Hublot > IWC > Jaeger-LeCoultre > Jaquet Droz > Montblanc > Piaget > Roger Dubuis > TAG Heuer > Tissot > Vacheron Constantin > Victorinox Swiss Army > Wyler
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SUBHEAD | THIS IS FOR A DECK GOING BLASH BLAH BLAH-WATCHES BLAH BLAH TEXT BY: SOME WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHY: SOME PHOTOGRAPHER
THE 24 HOURS OF LE MANS It’s one of the most famous events in all of auto racing, and certainly one of the most challenging—for the cars, the teams, the drivers and the fans. Racing at top speed around the clock is no mean feat; in fact, at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, it’s an accomplishment just to finish the race. It was against this background of extreme endurance and achievement, at the 2009 24 Hours of Le Mans, that Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its latest AMVOX watch, the special edition AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing, in conjunction with Aston Martin Racing. This year is the anniversary of Aston Martin’s historic 1959 victory at Le Mans. It also marks Aston Martin’s debut as a competitor in the prestigious LMP1 prototype class.
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RACING ASTON MARTIN AT LE MANS Carroll Shelby and Roy Salvadori drove the Aston Martin DBR1 to victory in 1959. Aston Martin Racing’s next victory at Le Mans came in 2007 with a triumph in the GT1 class. Driving the No. 009 DBR9, Aston Martin Racing claimed another GT1 win in 2008.
The partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin, leaders in their respective industries, began in 2002, and new products developed in collaboration have been introduced periodically since then. When collaborating on a new Aston Martin watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre does the heavy lifting, of course, designing the case, movement and other elements, but the designers at Aston Martin certainly have their say as well and must approve the final product. “My involvement is to make sure that the Aston Martin element is maintained,” explains design director Marek Reichman, the man behind Aston Martin’s beautiful automobiles. “We are not watch designers, we are car designers, but we communicate to Jaeger-LeCoultre what we are thinking about as far as the next generation of cars and materials. We work together on colors, finishes, anything new or different.”
“We begin with a kick-off session in London to discuss what we are thinking about, what they are thinking about, and then we get down to the nitty-gritty of what we are going to work on,” he continues. “The more people who look at a design who are knowledgeable, the better the design will become. And Jaeger-LeCoultre’s people are great designers. For me, it’s always a joy to see the first prototype, because I see how it all comes together.” Magali Metrailler, the designer of the AMVOX watches and other timepieces for Jaeger-LeCoultre, enjoys the back and forth and the chance to interact with designers from another industry. “It’s nice to work with them,” she says. “They don’t tell us what to do with the watches, just as we don’t tell them how to make the car, but they are particular about the brand details, like the font of the logo, the distances and so on.” According to Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO
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Jerome Lambert, there are two reasons the partnership works. “First, it makes Jaeger— and fine watchmaking in general—visible to new clients, people who don’t know the brand. Secondly, it reveals what we can do in sports, which adds a new dimension for our current clients.” Aston Martin appreciates the partnership with Jaeger because of the similar philosophies of both companies and the access to Jaeger’s customer base. “For me, I believe that the customer who appreciates the technology and detailing and precision in the watch also appreciates what we do in detailing and precision in our cars,” says Aston Martin chairman and chief executive Dr. Ulrich Bez. “There are customers for Jaeger-LeCoultre who have not yet thought about an Aston. We discover people from both sides who are interested in JaegerLeCoultre and Aston Martin.
ONE RACY AMVOX Jaeger-LeCoultre’s AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing special edition comprises two references and 100 pieces of each. Ref. Q192T400 ($17, 650) is titanium with a black PVD finish and black PVD-coated steel buckle; Ref. Q192T430 ($17,350) has an uncoated titanium case with a steel buckle. Both are 44mm in diameter and have a perforated leather strap.
THE 2009 LMP1 CLASS WINNER’S CIRCLE
As a participant in the LMP1 prototype class, Aston Martin was running against the big boys— including Peugeot and Audi. Its gas-powered entry was deemed to have only an outside chance of victory in the LMP1 class against Peugeot and Audi with their faster and more powerful diesels. In fact, Team Peugeot Sport Total won the race in its Peugeot 908 Hdi-FAP, but Aston Martin achieved its stated goal of finishing in the top five when a Lola Aston Martin, driven by Team AMR Eastern Europe, came in fourth overall, tops among the gas-powered cars.
”We are very similar in our company values,” he continues. “In size, we are about the same. We are not the biggest in our business, but we are the most luxurious. We are two companies who are very strong in craftsmanship and technology, and we share a passion. Jerome and I are well aligned with how we see luxury, technology, heritage and the future. Both companies have developed influenced by the talents of the people who are leading the company.” The AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing that debuted at the 24 Hours of Le Mans is specifically tied to Aston Martin racing, so its design brief was different from those of other AMVOX models—for this one, inspiration was to be taken from the race cars. “The goal was to make this watch a mix of Jaeger history, to respect our past, and the future of Jaeger and Aston Martin Racing,” says Metrailler. “The character of the numerals, for example, is the same as that found on old gauges from automobiles and motorcycles, which Jaeger used to produce. The sides of the case are reminiscent of the famous
Polaris timepiece. I used different sizes of numerals, which is a signature of the AMVOX series. On the old counters Jaeger made, and on the counters of the time, you find the same thing. In addition, we placed numerals only on 270 degrees of the dial, a configuration reminiscent of a speedometer.” “We also decided to use colors from the racing world,” she continues. “And we are always trying to use new materials in different areas of the watch. We used ceramic ball bearings for the winding system and carbon fiber for the counters because it is light; in the Aston Martin race cars, the brakes are carbon fiber.” But there is much more to the new timepiece than its external design. The watch also features Jaeger’s vertical trigger chronograph—no pushbuttons needed for operating this function, pressing on the crystal at 12 starts and stops the chronograph, and pressing at 6 resets it. The result is a very interesting watch, one that is distinctive and attractive, and equal parts Aston Martin and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
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Those in attendance at the unveiling of this watch enjoyed an event to rival the race itself. First of all, guests of Jaeger-LeCoultre stayed at the Chateau de Sept Tours, a beautiful castle in the French countryside. According to locals, there are hundreds of private chateaux in the Tours region, but this is one of the best preserved among them. The grounds of the castle include an 18-hole golf course and a swimming pool, as well as an archery range that doubles as a helipad. Following the official presentation of the new AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing and a splendid lunch, helicopters appeared out of the sky to ferry guests to the racetrack at Le Mans, France. Traffic around Le Mans, particularly on the first day of the race, is out of control, so to ensure that we all got there quickly and without any trouble, Jaeger arranged to have private helicopters take us to the race. In addition to the great experience of flying above the huge traffic jams, the ride afforded excellent views of the castles in the Pays de la Loire region of the French Maine, a verdant area southeast of Paris.
EXTREME TESTING
Harold Primat, one of the drivers of Aston Martin No. 009, wore a prototype special edition AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing watch throughout the race. The idea was to see how the watch would stand up to the G forces, extreme heat and humidity, and incredible speed. Jaeger tested the watch before it went into the car and then again after the race, and found that the watch held up extremely well. “We can say that the watch was not impacted by the race conditions,” Lambert concludes. “Precision and reliability are thus preserved.”
THE CAR
The Aston Martin DBS is a 6.0-liter V12-powered, race-bred, two-seater shaped by the aerodynamic demands of high performance, with an exquisite interior that marries beautifully hand-finished materials with the very latest in performance technology. A combination of elegant design, innovative manufacturing processes, race-derived materials and components and Aston Martin’s unrivaled hand-build expertise makes the DBS a luxury sports car without equal. Priced from $269,000. astonmartin.com
Arriving at the Le Mans La Sarthe circuit about 45 minutes before the start, the other guests and I walked right through the gates and straight to the Aston Martin hospitality center, a great vantage point from which to watch the race. Le Mans is an amazing race, requiring skill, determination and endurance. Since the race continues for 24 hours, teams have three drivers who split the time, rotating in for several stints of about an hour at a time. Not surprisingly, fatigue and sleep deprivation are big issues. It’s amazing that the drivers, engineers and pit crews are able to perform at such a high level for such a long period. Many of the cars drop out due to mechanical problems, but the Aston Martins competing in this year’s contest all finished with flying colors. Established in 1923, Le Mans is also one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious races, so the experience of attending, along with nearly 250,000 other fans, was thrilling. Harold Primat was one of the drivers of Aston Martin No. 009, and he wore prototype number one of the new special edition
AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing watch throughout the race. This is no small thing. I don’t know of another racing team that would allow anything extraneous into a competing racecar. So the arrangement was a testament to the relationship Jaeger has with Aston Martin. The idea was to see how the watch would stand up to the pressures of the environment—namely G forces, extreme heat and humidity, and incredible speed. Jaeger tested the watch before it went into the car and then again after the race, and found that the watch held up extremely well, remaining within the specified parameters for average amplitude (which ranged from 250 to 259 degrees) and average regulation (which varied between +0.83 and +1 seconds/day). “We can say that the watch was not impacted by the race conditions,” Lambert concludes. “Precision and reliability are thus preserved.” As corporate partners, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin work hard to cultivate a relationship that is mutually beneficial. “We started with a great relationship, and this has turned into a real partnership in developing
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watches,” says Lambert. “We challenge the people at Aston Martin with ideas, and they do the same. They challenge us to dig deeper.” One great example is the AMVOX2 DBS Transponder watch, the idea for which came from within Jaeger. “Working on the Transponder, we gained much more than just cooperation; it was the development of a new generation of watches,” Lambert explains. “Aston Martin wanted us to develop a key to open the car. We were not interested in doing that, but we took the idea of a key in a different direction, proposing a watch that could open the car. They loved the concept, and the Transponder was born. This is only the beginning of all the functionality we can explore.” Expect great things in the future from the partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin—both cutting-edge companies determined to bring industry-leading products of the highest quality to market, and partners who foresee a long and fruitful future of collaboration. Good news for watch lovers. 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com
T H E WAT C H The AMVOX2 DBS Transponder is a recent addition to the exclusive AMVOX range of timepieces created jointly by Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin. The timepiece features an integrated transponder circuit that allows the owner to unlock or lock an Aston Martin DBS simply by pressing the sapphire crystal. Like the AMVOX2 Chronograph DBS that preceded it, this elegant timepiece has no pushbuttons. Instead, a mechanical lever trigger system patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre operates the chronograph. Augmenting these functions in the AMVOX2 DBS Transponder is a miniaturized transmitter system that controls access to the owner’s DBS luxury sports car from as much as 10 meters away. Pressing the “open” position on the watch crystal (between 8 and 9) activates the door-opening system, and pressing the “close” position (between 3 and 4) locks the car. To achieve this, the transponder module had to be specially designed to suit this application in watchmaking. It uses “capacitive technology to react to pressure on the crystal, and the antenna is metalized on the interior of the crystal. It has been engineered to prevent electrical interference with the mechanical movement and integrated into the design of the watch. The rose gold watch presents an aesthetic inspired by the look of the DBS’s instrument panel with gray ruthenium bridges, satin-finished surfaces, black background and suspended metallic gray DBS logo. The watch is priced at $37,900. Only owners of the DBS luxury sports car may own the watch. jaeger-lecoultre.com
AMVOX 2 D B S T R A N S P O N D E R CONTROLS ACCESS TO THE ASTON MARTIN DBS
THE FIRST HIGH - SPEED AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH MARKS A MILESTONE ANNIVERSARY. BY JOHN BIGGS IT WAS THE END OF THE GO-GO 1980s, AND TECHNOLOGY WAS KING. VCRs WERE WHIRRING AWAY IN HOMES AROUND THE WORLD, AND HI-FI SYSTEMS WERE GOING DIGITAL, THEIR BRIGHT LED DISPLAYS WINKING AT US AS WE WORKED AND PLAYED. THE PERSONAL COMPUTER WAS IN ITS INFANCY, BUT THE WAY WAS CLEAR—THE OLD WAS GONE, REPLACED BY THE NEW. In the attic of Zenith’s headquarters in Le Locle, Switzerland, lay a set of old books and a collection of dies and machines. This was Zenith’s graveyard. The firm, founded in 1865 by George FavreJacot under his own name, was acquired in 1971 by the Zenith Radio Corporation. The company
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New Vintage 1969 Original
CHRONOMASTER OPEN ANNIVERSARY
PORT ROYAL OPEN ANNIVERSARY
DEFY CLASSIC OPEN S ANNIVERSARY
TODAY’S EL PRIMERO PRODUCTION COMPRISES MORE THAN 20 INDIVIDUAL CALIBERS. ZENITH’S SPECIAL ANNIVERSARY EDITIONS USE CALIBER 469. was downgraded to a movement manufacturer before production of mechanical movement was discontinued altogether in the late 1970s. From these inauspicious years came little in the way of innovation from the once-mighty Swiss giant. Zenith looked for all the world to be an also-ran, its history and tradition still relegated to those dusty shelves while the world went digital. It was 1984 when the North American Watch Company bought Zenith and reintroduced production of mechanical watches. Soon an order came from Rolex for a set of highly accurate and ultra-thin mechanical chronograph movements for its Daytona line of watches. A group of Swiss employees pulled out Zenith’s collection of machinery and plans, as pristine as ferns trapped in amber, and began fulfilling the order. The 3019 PHC—also known as the El Primero—was reborn. In 1960 the average chronograph movement used two parts. The main part was a standard three-hand movement containing the time and power reserve functions, while another separate module ran the chronograph
functions. It was around 1960 that Zenith acquired an engineering company, Martel Watch & Co., and tasked its employees with creating a movement with an integrated chronograph mechanism that could measure time to 1/10th of a second. They began by reducing the chronograph to its essential parts. By stripping out all extraneous components, they were on their way to reinventing the chronograph movement as a dedicated scientific instrument. Two years later, Zenith engineers prepared a preliminary design for the new movement. Working slowly, taking months to work through knotty problems of centrifugal force and size, they experimented with materials and dry lubricants. In about 1967, Zenith discovered that rivals Breitling, Hamilton and Heuer were together attempting to solve many of the same problems, so the Zenith engineers accelerated their work. On a cold day in January 1969, everything was in place. Zenith released the El Primero, a movement representing a first and bearing an Esperanto name signifying humanistic
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universality, on January 10th. This amazing automatic movement alternated at 36,000 bph—a frequency significantly higher than that of even the most accurate watches of the time—and had a central column wheel for switching the chronograph on and off. The column wheel was important because it reduced the chances of a movement seizing during use. The wheel looks like a tiny crown pushed forward by the force of the pushes. Tiny hands fall into the wheel’s teeth to essentially direct the function, transmitting the user’s “commands” to the wheel, which then transmits them to the various parts of the chronograph movement. It was the brain of the El Primero and reduced the size and increased the durability of this powerhouse movement. The current El Primero, featured prominently in Zenith’s blast-from-the-past New Vintage 1969 anniversary edition, has 278 components with 31 jewels and uses 18 different metals. In more complicated variants, each El Primero may take 20 watchmakers nine months to complete, and each piece is cleaned 56 times as it passes through the workshop.
DIVERSCOPE JR1000
JEANRICHARD
JR1000 IN-HOUSE SELF-WINDING MOVEMENT,
FIRST AND FORMOST DESIGNED FOR DIVING
43X43MM VULCANIZED RUBBER COATED CASE,
ENTHOUSIASTS. BI-DIRECTIONAL BEZEL FOR
PUSH-BUTTONS, CROWNS AND CASE-BACK
DIVING TIME, WATER-RESISTANT TO 300 METERS,
IN BLACK PVD COATED TITANIUM.
MADE FOR EXTREME CONDITIONS.
For additional information, call 1-877-846-3447 www.jeanrichard.com
PRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL EL PRIMERO MOVEMENT WAS HALTED IN 1975, WHEN THEN-OWNER ZENITH RADIO CORPORATION DECIDED TO CEASE PRODUCTION OF MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS IN THE FACE OF COMPETITION FROM QUARTZ TECHNOLOGY. NEW VINTAGE 1969 ANNIVERSARY IN TITANIUM
Prices in the New Vintage 1969 Original series start at $7,900.
NEW VINTAGE 1969 ANNIVERSARY IN STEEL
By reducing friction and weight, Zenith has been able to improve the accuracy of the El Primero while adding functions like a moonphase and a calendar. Original El Primero models have been recreated for Zenith’s anniversary collection. The New Vintage 1969 Original—in steel, rose gold or blackened titanium—evokes something between racing gear and a space pod. The registers crowd around the dial center like the beams of spotlights homing in on center stage, and the huge lugs lend an air of density and security rarely seen in modern watch cases. The anniversary collection also includes El Primero–powered variants from Zenith’s current crop of Chronomaster, Class, Port Royal and Defy watches with beefy bezels and beautifully engraved dials.
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NEW VINTAGE 1969 ANNIVERSARY IN ROSE GOLD
No matter how far Zenith’s new models stray from earlier designs, it is calming to know that inside each watch beats the El Primero. The movement has undoubtedly launched a thousand races; it has timed countless events, and all with such accuracy that the original design still underpins the latest calibers. The El Primero—the first—wasn’t the first chronograph on the moon or the first chronograph movement. It was, however, the movement that defined an era. By building a highly accurate movement with no extraneous parts, Zenith redefined the industry for decades and set the bar well and high for all who would come after. 866.260.0460, zenith-watches.com
Haute-Performance TM
The Kriëger Gigantium Skeleton Skeleton Collection. Visible skeleton movement shows special hand engraved carvings and skull with ruby eyes. Available in 18kt rose gold, 18kt white gold, PVD gun metal coating or all stainless steel, with or without diamonds. Impressively oversized at 43mm. Swiss made superlative mechanical wound movement with exhibition back. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Limited edition. KRIEGERWATCH.COM - 800 441 8433 Available at: TOURNEAU For locations nationwide, or shop at home 800 348 3332 LA VIANO JEWELERS Englewood NJ 201 569 4556 LOUIS BLACK Toronto Ontario 416 920 8338 KENJO JEWELERS New York NY 212 333 7220
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BEN SOUTHALL | E N G L I S H MA N B E N S O U T H A L L C L A I MS T H E B EST J O B I N T H E WO R L D TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG
Ben Southall’s job description: to explore the islands of the Great Barrier Reef, swim, SCUBA dive, make friends with the locals, and generally enjoy the tropical Queensland climate and lifestyle.
Whenever a job posting includes duties like these, competition will naturally be fierce. So Englishman Ben Southall, the successful candidate for the “Best Job in the World,” knows he is fortunate to have been chosen from more than 35,000 applicants to become caretaker of Hamilton Island, Queensland, Australia. This dream job was the prize in a contest arranged by Tourism Queensland to promote the Great Barrier Reef. The adventurous and outdoorsy 34-year-old assumed his duties on July 1st. REALITY Of course, the reality of a thing can be quite different from the hype surrounding it. So I caught
ment” promotes. “The Great Barrier Reef is the largest living organism on the planet, and at nearly 3,000 kilometers long, it will take much longer than the short time I have here to investigate in full,” he says. “The diving is some of the finest I have
greatest adventure of my life. The challenges and new experiences are totally out of this world, and I have to pinch myself regularly to appreciate what’s happening.” PRECISION One of the tools of Southall’s new trade is the Alpina Extreme Diver 1000 Meters watch, perfect for diving, beachcombing and other such professional responsibilities. No matter what he is doing, Southall wears this watch. “The lifestyle I lead involves being in and out of the ocean on an hourly basis—having a watch that looks great, performs well and allows me to dive are top reasons for wearing the Alpina,” he explains. An engineer by training, Southall
“I’M A REAL GADGET FAN AND NEED TO HAVE THE LATEST AND GREATEST IF I CAN.” adds that he can appreciate the workmanship that goes into a well engineered timepiece like the Extreme Diver 1000 Meters.
up with Southall by phone a few weeks later to ask how things were going. Is being island caretaker really the best job in the world? “It sure feels like it is,” Southall says. “I’ve only just started what I consider the
PA R A D I S E What’s a typical day at the office like for this real-life Robinson Crusoe? According to Southall, “There hasn’t been a normal day yet; there hasn’t really been much of a day off yet, either!” But then, who needs a day off in paradise? Southall is also clearly taken with the reef that his “employ-
experienced on the planet, and I fail to see how I could ever be bored with it.” The only thing Southall dislikes about his new job is that it will only last six months. “There’s so much; the six months will fly, and are flying, by!” And based on the success of the inventive promotion, Tourism Queensland may decide to open a new personnel search for 2010. Adventurers, brush up your résumés. Meanwhile, follow Southall’s adventures at bestjobben.com.
EXTREME DIVER The latest watches in Alpina’s Extreme Diver 1000 Meters collection add a splash of islandinspired color to the already successful dive watch. Four luminous dial treatments— Yellowtail, Orange Sunset, Côtes d’Azur and Black Ocean—are offered in the 48mm black PVDfinished steel case, water resistant to 1,000 meters. The dive-ready
instrument features a unidirectional rotating bezel, displaying luminous markers: a prominent triangle at 12, an index for each minute through 15 minutes, and numerals marking ten-minute intervals after that. It also features an automatic helium release valve, a safety device used by professional divers at extreme depths. The automatic movement, Caliber AL-525 with frequency of 28,800 bph, 26 jewels, and black oscillating weight can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. A black rubber strap completes the package. 877.619.2824, alpina-watches.com
Above and opposite, inset: The Alpina Extreme Diver 1000 Meters
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I’VE ONLY JUST STARTED WHAT I CONSIDER THE GREATEST ADVENTURE OF MY LIFE. THE CHALLENGES AND NEW EXPERIENCES THAT THIS JOB THROWS AT ME ARE TOTALLY OUT OF THIS WORLD. – BEN SOUTHALL
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HAROLD PRIMAT | JA EG E R - L e CO U LT R E ’S T EST D R I V E R G O ES TO L E MA N S TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG
Harold Primat,
the 34-year-old Geneva-based Aston Martin driver, wore the new Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, the AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing, during the 2009 24 Hours of Le Mans to test its durability and precision. I caught up with Primat at his Geneva home after the renowned endurance race to talk about the experience. Wearing a watch while racing is quite unusual, given that the teams are constantly trying to save weight and anything extraneous can be potentially hazardous in the event of a crash. In fact, Primat’s 2009 Le Mans was ended by a crash, but fortunately both driver and watch emerged unscathed. And Primat—who naturally appreciates a fine watch, having grown up in Switzerland—turned out to be the ideal candidate for piloting the watch’s “test drive.” “I have always worn a watch while racing; it’s a habit I have had since the beginning. Under my long glove, the watch can’t be damaged, and it doesn’t bother me,” he explains. “It was an honor to be asked to wear the first prototype of a new JaegerLeCoultre watch.” ENDURANCE “The titanium AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing feels much lighter than the previous AMVOX model I was wearing,” he continues. “I didn’t feel it at all during the race. If it’s strong enough to be in the racecar at Le Mans, it can withstand just about anything. It worked perfectly.” Primat crashed when some cooling system liquid got onto the rear wheel of his car. “I touched my brakes, and it was as if I were on ice,” he details. “I was entering one of the fastest corners, doing 260–280 kph
I am just doing laps, time seems to go much more slowly.” PRESSURE Naturally, pressure on the drivers mounts as teams work throughout the year to prepare for Le Mans. “The pressure to go fast is very high,” Primat explains. “You have a lot of people working on the car, you have the sponsors, all the people getting you ready for Le Mans, and you don’t want to
“I HAVE ALWAYS WORN A WATCH ON MY LEFT WRIST WHILE RACING; IT’S A HABIT I HAVE HAD SINCE THE BEGINNING.” (161–174 mph), and I hit the tire wall with the back of the car and slammed into it sideways as well. My head was ringing, but when I got out of the car, which was destroyed, the watch was working perfectly and still looked great.” TIMING Obviously, time is extremely important to racecar drivers, who battle the clock as well as competing cars. “I feel that in the racecar, my perception of time depends on what I am doing in the race,” Primat says. “When I start a race, and I am busy with trying to get through lots of cars, time passes quickly. It’s so intense. When I do stints where
let them down. That pressure is a challenge, but that’s what makes it special. It’s a balance between wanting to achieve speed and wanting to avoid a mistake. If you are even one second slower in every lap, you will lose quite a bit of time.” Primat loves the 24 Hours of Le Mans. “It’s a great race— among the top three in the world,” Primat says. Even people who know nothing about motor racing are aware of Le Mans. There is a special spirit because of the history, the fans and the atmosphere. Because the race is so long with so many ups and downs, it’s a human adventure.” 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com; haroldprimat.com
RACE TO PERFECTION Primat was named an Aston Martin driver in January 2009, just a few months ahead of the famed 24-hour endurance race in which he partnered with Stuart Hall and Peter Kox behind the wheel of Aston Martin’s No. 009 LMP1 racer. Following the crash that forced a withdrawal from competition at Le Mans, Primat ended the 2009 Le Mans Series season with a fourth-place finish at Silverstone in mid-September to clinch fourth in the standings and complete his career-best campaign. He launched into Asian Le Mans Series competition on October 31st. 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com; haroldprimat.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s AMVOX2 Chronograph Racing
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IT WAS AN HONOR TO BE ASKED TO WEAR THE FIRST PROTOTYPE OF A NEW JAEGER- LECOULTRE WATCH. – HAROLD PRIMAT ASTON MARTIN RACE DRIVER
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ALEX GRINBERG | C H A L L E N G E A N D O P P O RT U N I TY TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG
Alex Grinberg, worldwide president of Concord, has been a key
element in the brand’s reinvention over the past few years, thanks in no small part to his focus on challenges and opportunities. Watch Journal caught up with Grinberg in his New Jersey offices to talk about the development of this dynamic brand and the future of watches in general. BEAUTY Grinberg’s favorite watch is the Concord C1 Tourbillon Gravity. “I don’t own one, but I love the tourbillon,” he explains. “It’s a beautiful watch, very comfortable and technologically very advanced. We did a lot of interesting things with materials in that watch as well.”
“Business is challenging,” Grinberg admits. Brands have to work harder now to differentiate themselves. With Concord, we have a unique product, and we are very satisfied with the progress we are making. On the other hand, building Concord into a luxury brand is a longterm project. Luckily, because we are part of the Movado Group, we have the financial resources to stay the course.”
PRIX WORTHY The latest model in Concord’s C-Lab Series, the C1 Quantum Gravity, has been nominated for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie 2009. The C1 Quantum Gravity competes against other highend brands in the complicated watch category. All nominated watches will be exhibited October 16th through November 20th at the UBS Corraterie Exhibition Hall, Geneva.
“BUSINESS IS CHALLENGING. BUT THERE ARE STILL A LOT OF OPPORTUNITIES. IT’S REALLY ABOUT THE PRODUCT.”
INNOVATION Grinberg has been with the Movado Group for more than 15 years, starting in sales. He moved to Hong Kong in 1996 to run the Far East operation for three and a half years, followed by a year-long stint in Japan. Since 2000, he has been the president of Concord Americas, and he has been intimately
INDUSTRY Grinberg knows how important the US is as a market to the international watch industry. “As a luxury watch market, it’s still underdeveloped relative to other parts of the world,” he notes. “The US has grown as a market for watches, a long way to go before it catches up to the rest of the world. The US is a large market, so there are always opportunities.” 800.547.4073, concord-watch.com
involved in Concord’s return to innovation over the past two years. “The brand is about innovation, high technology and doing things that are daring,” he says. “We have been having a lot of success with our high-end complications, like the C1 Tourbillon Gravity, which speaks to how important it is to produce distinctive pieces. Exceptional things are selling well.” Being a member of Movado’s founding family, Grinberg grew up in the watch business. “As a result, I can take a long-range view of the watch industry,” he says. “There are always challenges, but it’s fun to find creative ways to overcome them.”
The C1 Tourbillon Gravity rethinks the tourbillon regulator by positioning it vertically and seemingly outside of the movement. It is, however, connected to the rest of the mechanism by a perpendicular pinion. An aluminumlithium alloy, used in the tourbillon carriage and the movement bridges, is just one of the high-tech materials pressed into service in this watch. The white gold case measures 48.5mm in diameter and 18.5mm in depth; its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is 3.3mm thick.
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S05 Collection. Automatic Movement Complete Calendar. Titanium D.L.C. Black Treatment.
NEW U.S.A. DISTRIBUTOR: NICOLET MD S.R.L.
e-mail: info@armandnicolet.com www.armandnicolet.com
VISIONARY VENTURE I N N OVAT I V E DESIGNER RALPH LAUREN TEAMS WITH RICHEMONT GRO U P ’S J O H A N N R U P E RT TO BRING HIS SIGNATURE STYLE TO THE LUXURY WATC H WO R L D. Ralph Lauren shook up the fashion world in 1967 by eclipsing the mundane narrow tie with a flashier, much wider counterpart. That “wide tie revolution” marked the beginning of the Polo label and more than 40 years of stylish offerings from the iconic designer. One-of-a-kind Ralph Lauren collections, from clothing and accessories to fragrances and furniture, are heralded worldwide: casual polo tees with the mallet-wielding sportsman-on-a-pony, preppy English tweeds, and chic clothing that defines the red carpet. For the home, there are sleek, taut club chairs in hand-distressed saddle leather and furniture embellished with bold hammered-nickel nailheads. It’s part of that enduring Ralph Lauren look, perhaps the most recognized among luxury brands around the world. And now, to the delight of watch aficionados, that timeless Ralph Lauren lifestyle constitution—the epitome of sophistication, class and taste—adorns the wrist. Three iconic timepieces—the Stirrup,
Slim Classique and Sporting collections—were spawned from a partnership between Ralph Lauren and Johann Rupert, executive chairman of the Swiss-based luxury goods group Richemont. Introduced through a common friend, the two men met for dinner in New York City five years ago. Some good food, conversation and a handshake later, they agreed to a 50/50 venture that would see Lauren’s dreams for a watch collection fulfilled. Lauren, an avid watch collector, had been approached over the years about starting his own watch line. But the timing wasn’t right. And he wanted to find the right partner. “He really is a very instinctive person. He would know when things were right,” says Guy Chatillon, CEO of the newly created Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company. “These two men, Ralph and Johann, didn’t really know each other. But they always had a high mutual respect for each other’s business.”
B Y C AT H Y G O R D O N
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The 42mm Slim Classique in white gold
Stirrup Collection watches and their inspiration
PERHAPS MOST QUINTESSENTIAL IN THE WATCH LINE IS THE RALPH LAUREN STIRRUP COLLECTION, INSPIRED BY HERITAGE EQUESTRIAN STYLE. During the dinner, casual conversation turned to a shared love of watches. Lauren mentioned that he’d always collected timepieces and had a desire to produce his own collection. It was clear the two men had a lot in common, particularly their passion for quality, authenticity and detail. “There was wonderful chemistry between the two men, visionaries who share all these same qualities and passion,” Chatillon continues. “I’m not surprised that both men came to an agreement during that dinner and said ‘Okay, let’s partner and do this 50/50,’ something really unique in this high-end luxury industry—a lifestyle brand partnering with a luxury manufacturing group. Going 50/50 is proof of their full trust of and
comfort with one another. A word between two men of that level is really amazing.” Each timepiece offers a unique design that transcends Polo Ralph Lauren’s signature sensibilities of luxury, glamour and timelessness. Authentic and refined, they are designed in white gold, rose gold, platinum or stainless steel, many embellished with diamonds. “All three of the collections’ watches are in line with the soul and DNA of the brand. For a newcomer to the watch industry, the style and level of the finishing of the watches is exceptional,” Chatillon enthuses. The pairing allows the best of both worlds. “From Richemont, we get access to the best manufactured movements, all the production
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facilities, the logistics, the sales and distribution expertise,” he continues. “On the Polo Ralph Lauren side, besides the name, we get all the marketing and communications expertise—and, of course, the aesthetic and design elements from Polo Ralph Lauren. It couldn’t be a better match.” Lauren is personally involved in each step of the product’s development. “We meet every month with the team and exchange ideas. It’s not just his name on the watch. It embodies his ideas, his passion, his involvement with each of the watches,” Chatillon says. “He is extremely interested in detail, and the level of detail is amazing. He is a true expert in the watch environment and industry, a real visionary who can see forward to what he wants.” Perhaps most quintessential in the watch line is the Ralph Lauren Stirrup Collection, inspired by heritage equestrian style. Executed to become an instant classic, the design of the timepiece exudes timeless sophistication. The Stirrup Collection comprises twelve references representing various combinations of small, medium or large case size, white or rose gold and optional diamond embellishments. All contain Swiss-made mechanical movements: the small references use Caliber RL430, a manufacture movement made by Piaget for Ralph Lauren; medium references use Caliber RL701, a manufacture movement with chronograph functions made by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Ralph Lauren; and large references use Caliber RL750, a self-winding manufacture movement made by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Ralph Lauren. The jewel of this collection is a limited edition platinum version of the large Stirrup chronograph. It features a polished 950 platinum case measuring 36.6mm x 38.5mm x 12.15mm and weighing 109.4g, a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, a back secured with six screws and an 18-karat white gold crown set with black onyx. The white enamel dial has black Roman numerals. Each of the 67 pieces in the limited edition— commemorating the year 1967 when the Polo Ralph Lauren brand was created—is individually numbered and signed by Ralph Lauren. A bygone era of style is reflected in the
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POLO RALPH LAUREN’S PRESENCE IN THE SPORTING WORLDS OF POLO, TENNIS AND GOLF IS EVIDENT IN THE SPORTING CHRONOGRAPH MODEL, WHICH OFFERS ATHLETIC SENSIBILITY WITH PRECISION FUNCTIONALITY. Ralph Lauren Slim Classique Collection, a slender silhouette of a watch with a sleek modernity and superb detailing. The dial displays magnificent hand-guilloché work, and the case, at a generous 42mm diameter, is only 5.35mm thick. The ultra-thin mechanism, Caliber RL430, a manufacture movement made by Piaget for Ralph Lauren, is only 2.1mm thick and offers exceptional reliability. The Slim Classique’s perfectly round case is available in 18-karat white or rose gold or in platinum. The small crown is either polished or embellished with a black diamond (in the platinum version). The bezel is decorated with original guillochage. The silvered opaline dial plays with contrasts, and the delicacy of the traditional guilloché pattern sets off the modernity of the transferred black Roman numerals. The hands, in brilliant black, or blued steel in the platinum
version, indicate the hours and minutes. A black alligator strap is discreetly chic, while the polished 18-karat gold or platinum caseback is ideal for personalized engraving. Lauren once said, “I’ve always liked purposeful things, things that are designed not just to be decorative. I like sports and speed, style and beauty.” He has accomplished that with the Ralph Lauren Sporting Collection offered in three basic variants (including two with complications): the Classic, the Chronograph and the World Time. The Sporting Classic model is stainless steel with a vintagestyle dial that emphasizes readability with black Roman numerals and a seconds subdial. The finish work on the manually wound mechanical movement—bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève and mainplate with circular graining—can be admired through the sapphire
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crystal screw-down caseback. It comes with an alligator strap. Polo Ralph Lauren’s presence in the sporting worlds of polo, tennis and golf is evident in the Sporting Chronograph model, which offers athletic sensibility with precision functionality. The brushed stainless steel watch is offered in black or white dial versions with subdials for running seconds, chrono minutes and chrono hours. Like the large Stirrup watches, the Sporting Chronograph uses Caliber RL750. The chronograph function operates via twin pushbuttons: start/stop and reset. A tachymetric scale allows calculations of speed; date is displayed at 6. The watch is available on a brown leather strap or steel bracelet. The Sporting World Time model simultaneously displays the local time and a second Top right: the Sporting World Time in rose gold; bottom left: the Sporting Classic in stainless steel
The Sporting Chronograph in brushed steel
THROUGH ITS EXCLUSIVE PARTNERSHIP WITH THE RICHEMONT GROUP, RALPH LAUREN HAS ACCESS TO MANUFACTURE MOVEMENTS FROM THE GROUP’S FINE WATCHMAKING HOUSES PIAGET, JAEGER-LECOULTRE AND IWC. time zone via a city disc that represents the 24 time zones of the globe and a subdial at 6, combined with a day/night indicator. The most complicated of all the Ralph Lauren watches, this piece also indicates the date and remaining power reserve. It is powered by Caliber RL939, a self-winding manufacture movement made by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Ralph Lauren. The elegant timepiece has a 44.8mm case, available in white or rose gold. The white gold version offers a choice of a black or white dial. An alligator strap completes the piece. Core price points in the collection range from $10,000 to $20,000 with the limited edition Stirrup chronograph at $68,000. Distribution will be split between Polo Ralph Lauren retail stores and the best independent retailers around the world, says Chatillon. “The partnership with the independent retailers will be based on a great personal relationship. We are not looking for many points of sale. We are looking for the right ones. In the watch industry,
independent retailers are really looking to come back to the basics, to the roots and to understand a brand and be able to participate in the excitement of that brand. That’s what we’re all about.” Chatillon is uniquely qualified to lead Polo Ralph Lauren into the watch world. He learned every aspect of the business during his 18-year career at Piaget. He worked first as product manager within the marketing department, quickly becoming area sales manager for North and South America and the Caribbean. He went on to define the overall marketing strategy for Piaget as its business development manager for North America and Europe, supervising operations for two of the company’s most high-profile markets. He also successfully spearheaded the opening of Piaget’s first flagship boutique in the US on New York’s Fifth Avenue. From there, he was promoted to international commercial director with responsibility for global brand sales and distribution strategy. As such, he
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oversaw a major restructuring of the firm’s operations in the US, Asia and the Middle East. He was promoted to senior vice president of Piaget in 2002, setting the company’s global sales, distribution, operations and retail strategies. Chatillon couldn’t be happier as CEO of the Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company. “What an exciting time! A baby has been born!” he says of the watch collection that debuted at the 2009 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie trade show in Geneva. “We are always saying that we gave birth on January 18th. It’s something really unique to be a part of. When you give birth, there is a lot of emotion, there is a lot of passion. And when you give birth, you give birth for the long term. For both Ralph Lauren and Johann Rupert, this isn’t a one-shot thing. They want to establish a credible watch brand for the long term on a solid and strong foundation.” There is no arrogance to the strategy, only the desire to capture a market looking for something new, different and fresh, he says. “We are building a long-term brand based on highly selective distribution.” Chatillon recalls a young Ralph Lauren, who, armed with passion and a keen business sense, approached his boss at a shop where he worked selling ties. “He was just an employee. He went to his boss and said, ‘We should come up with wider ties.’ His boss said, ‘The world is not ready for wide ties.’ So he quit the company and started his own business—selling wide ties! Who knew? 42 years later, just look where he is!” The same passion and desire for authenticity and quality that inspired Lauren’s wide ties is behind this watch collection, says Chatillon. And the watch aficionado needn’t look any further than Lauren’s wrist for a reminder of a dream fulfilled. “He loves his watches. Every day he wears them,” Chatillon says. “You can see how proud and passionate and happy he is.” Cathy Gordon is a freelance journalist in Houston, Texas.
LOUP DESIGN
A LEGACY FOR TOMORROW
TECHNICAL AND PRECIOUS FINE WATCHMAKING DRAWS ITS LEGITIMACY FROM KNOW-HOW AND INNOVATION.
THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE, THROUGH ITS ACTIVITIES, FOSTERS AND BRINGS TO LIFE VALUES OF CREATIVITY, CULTURE AND TRADITION.
Partners of the Foundation: A. Lange & Söhne – Antoine Preziuso – Audemars Piguet – Baume & Mercier – Boucheron – Cartier – Chanel – Chopard Corum – Daniel Roth – Fédération de l’industrie horlogère suisse – Gérald Genta – Girard-Perregaux – Greubel Forsey – Hermès Hublot – IWC – Jaeger-LeCoultre – JeanRichard – Montblanc – Musée d'art et d'histoire de Genève – Musée d’Horlogerie Beyer, Zürich – Musée d’horlogerie du Locle, Château-des-Monts – Musée international d’horlogerie, La Chaux-de-Fonds – Panerai Parmigiani – Perrelet – Piaget – Richard Mille – Roger Dubuis – TAG Heuer – Vacheron Constantin – Van Cleef & Arpels – Zenith
HAUTEHORLOGERIE.ORG
[ J O U R N A L ]™
HOLIDAY GIFT
GUIDE
The holiday season always brightens the mid-winter nights with brilliant lights, festive gatherings and sparkling decorations. This season, brilliantly conceived and constructed watches add their own special glow to the mix. Jeweled masterpieces meet high horology and fashion meets function in an array of giftable timepieces to please the watch connoisseur.
HER TURN Zenith’s Chronomaster Moonphase Lady reinterprets a man’s mechanical chronograph for the modern woman, packing impressive functionality into a 37.5mm stainless steel or rose gold and diamond package. 866.260.0460, zenith-watches.com. $13,000 in steel, $23,000 in rose gold
ALL THAT GLITTERS High horology is married with the most sophisticated and delicate of all jewelry settings, the invisible setting, in the Malte Tourbillon Regulator Haute Joaillerie by Vacheron Constantin. 877.862.7555, vacheron-constantin.com. $900,000
PERFECT TIMING Piaget’s Emperador has always communicated elegance with its subtly flared case and sophisticated shaped movement. Fabulous diamond embellishments are the latest variations on the Emperador theme. 800.628.8119, piaget.com. price upon request
TEMPUS FUGIT The Baile de Mariposas, part of the Pulso Collection by Carrera y Carrera, reinforces that time is one of life’s most precious luxuries by using precious gold and diamonds to render its butterfly motif. 800.CYC.3229, carreraycarrera.com. $23,900
CASCADE EFFECT The Vaux-le-Vicomte Necklace watch is an ode to the fountains of the Vaux-le-Vicomte château. Its 36mm watchcase is set with baguette diamonds, adorned by a cascade of sapphire beads. On the base of the dial is a motherof-pearl inlay depicting another bubbling fountain. The watch can be attached to a sapphire and diamond choker to become a necklace. 877.VANCLEEF, vancleef-arpels.com. $800,000
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LET IT SNOW
CHARM SCHOOL Charms by Van Cleef & Arpels is a precious and modern take on the lucky charm. The sophisticated quatrefoil Alhambra motif radiates from the center of the black dial and is repeated in the jeweled charm that dangles from a ring and turns freely around the case. 877.826.2533, vancleef-arpels.com. $18,400
Dior’s La D de Dior Snow Paved watch sparkles with its own kind of ice. Each jeweled watch is engraved with its unique serial number. 866.260.0460, dior.com. $50,000
SHINE ON The Little Lange 1 Moonphase in white gold by A. Lange & Söhne presents the fascinating spectacle of the waxing and waning of the moon on a white or dark blue mother-of-pearl dial—representing the day and night skies—surrounded by twinkling gems. 212.891.2350, alange-soehne.com. $52,300
OPEN SEASON The dial of de Grisogono’s Instrumento Grande Open Date has nothing to hide. Two large discs, exposed on the dial, come together to form the two-digit date in this design by Fawaz Gruosi. 866.DEGRISO, degrisogono.com. $128,000
HOT KNOT Richard Mille’s RM 019 Celtic Knot Ladies’ Tourbillon wristwatch presents a powerful symbol of the timeless nature of the spirit and the never-ending cycle of time in the diamond-studded motif of its exposed movement. 310.205.5555, richardmille.com. $320,000 in red gold, $325,000 in white gold
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SHADOW BOX The Bell & Ross BRS Phantom with diamonds offers a new take on luxury with its ight instrument-inspired case shape laced in diamonds. 888.307.7887, bellross.com. from $2,900
CUTTING EDGE The Excalibur by Roger Dubuis makes a powerful presentation of time and chronograph indications with its anthracite gray dial and rose gold case. 888.RDUBUIS, rogerdubuis.com. $46,000
COLOR WHEEL Hublot’s Big Bang Black Lemon is an imaginative combination of materials and eye-popping color. 800.536.0636, hublot.ch. $21,900
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Raisons d’Etre LIMITED EDITIONS
In today’s competitive global economy, companies must excel simply to claim a share of the market. It’s not enough to produce me-too products; offering products that are significantly distinct can give manufacturers an edge. Where watch companies are concerned, that often means limited editions. Within a limited edition, a maker can flex its creative and horological “muscles” and create incredible pieces unlike any others.
\ 0000/0007
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A perfectly symmetrical pair of emeralds, sourced from Colombia, are cut in the sugarloaf shape. Eighteen months of searching were needed in order to locate the perfect stones.
GARDEN PATH Le N么tre by Van Cleef & Arpels pays homage to the gardens of Versailles by recreating the geometrical structure of the walkways and other features. A diamond-set path lined by a grove of emeralds becomes an elegant tribute to topiary art. contact: 877.826.2533,
vancleef-arpels.com
edition: one-of-a-kind,
price upon request
The white gold case, embellished with diamonds, conceals a Swiss quartz movement; the white mother-ofpearl dial features a sunburst effect.
\ 0001 THE LIMITED EDITION AS A LAUNCH PAD Limited editions are one way for companies to experiment with an “out of the box” concept, present new technology or unusual styling, and test the waters of the market, so to speak. A successful limited edition has the power to launch a horological trend, and elements of such editions sometimes reappear in successive editions or even in a maker’s regular production collection now and again.
The manual-winding movement is the exclusive 27-jewel Clerc 605 with tourbillon regulator and twin barrels for 120-hour power reserve. The cutting-edge finish of the movement is black gold.
THRILLING DEPTHS, AMAZING HEIGHTS The Clerc Hydroscaph Limited Edition Gold Tourbillon is a miniature masterpiece of techno-luxury imbued with breakthrough features stemming from state-of-the-art research in the fields of space and aquatic exploration. contact: 888.919.8463, edition: 28
The skeletonized dial has a tourbillon bridge at 9, retrograde date between 12 and 3, and power reserve indicator between 4 and 6.
clercwatches.com
individually numbered examples, $106,000
NEW STONE AGE Nubeo’s Black Mamba MVP offers the new concept of a jeweled timepiece as masculine and sporty with its sophisticated embellishments in four different models.
The matte black ceramic case, backed by a titanium inner case, is 48mm in diameter. The titanium caseback is engraved with the Nubeo logo and the limited edition number.
A glossy black DLC finish is applied to the bracelet, hands, chronograph pushbuttons, even the six screws that secure the caseback.
The 48 baguette-cut sapphires on the outer ring of the dial are precision cut to a tolerance of just 0.02mm for a flawless fit. These are matched by another 48 baguette-cut sapphires on the ceramic bezel.
contact: 877.682.3624, nubeo.ch
24 pieces, $260,000 for Whiskey Sapphire; other gemstone variations $198,000–$305,000
edition:
The elongated 18-karat rose gold case houses a Swiss-made quartz movement and is fitted with a comfortable white rubber strap with an 18-karat rose gold butterfly clasp.
The digital time display is invisible behind 171 Xilion-cut Swarovski crystals until a pushbutton is pressed, activating the LED illumination, which shines through the crystal.
DIGITAL AGE Thousands of hours of work went into refining the design of the Swarovski D:Light, conceived by renowned watch designer Eric Giroud in collaboration with the famed maker of fine Austrian crystal.
The watch’s inductive recharging system limits required charging time for this electric timepiece to three hours per month.
contact: 800.426.3088, swarovski.com edition: 99
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pieces, $15,000
\ 0002 THE LIMITED EDITION AS A RARE GEM Uniqueness is something that watch collectors are constantly looking for, and limited editions offer this. The enamored can choose an example from an extremely limited series or a one-off piéce unique from makers who offer them. Scarcity, naturally, adds to the value and the desirability of a limited edition piece.
A solitary black diamond set in black gold at 12 echoes the Art Deco penchant for elegant black and white tonalities.
Jean Dunand’s stylized interpretation of a 12-point fir tree provides the decorative motif of this dial, and 428 brilliant-cut diamonds make it sparkle.
LIGHT IN MOTION The Tourbillon Orbital is part of Jean Dunand’s ambitious undertaking of exclusively producing one-of-a-kind timepieces. Its mechanical movement is manually wound by means of a vertical winding and setting system on the back of the watch and features a one-minute tourbillon with integrated seconds display.
The invisible setting technique allows the 92 Top Wesselton baguette diamonds on the bezel and lugs of the 18-karat rose gold watch to display their brilliance without any visible prongs.
contact: 570.270.6160,
jeandunand.com edition: one-of-a-kind,
$474,100
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\ 0003 THE LIMITED EDITION AS AN END IN ITSELF The end can justify the means in a limited edition, especially when it comes to fine artisanal handwork, some of which is so expensive that it is impractical within a maker’s regular production collection; it would drive final prices far too high. But it is absolutely possible—even desirable—to continue applying these artisanal techniques to limited editions. Employing techniques such as enameling, miniature painting and engraving allows a watch brand to produce special pieces while at the same time supporting craftspeople whose arts would almost certainly become lost without the financial backing of the manufacturers that create a market for their skills.
The extraordinary cabinet is crafted of sycamore wood with gold and mother-of-pearl inlay and features magnifying lenses beneath sliding covers so that each watch may be viewed in detail while remaining safely enclosed in the cabinet.
Rotating mother-of-pearl and grand feu enamel dials feature art inspired by archetypal French, English, Italian and Asian gardens and complete one revolution every 365 days.
POETRY IN MOTION Van Cleef & Arpels presents a series of botanically themed watches as part of its Poetic Complications Collection. Each timepiece is intended to tell the story of the sensory pleasures of the garden. contact: 877.826.2533,
vancleef-arpels.com edition: 100
watches in each version, $61,000 each; 10 sets of four watches in display cabinet, $355,000
\ 0004 THE LIMITED EDITION AS A MILESTONE Commemorating a significant event is often the impetus for a limited edition project. Marking a significant anniversary—such as of the manufacture itself or some historical event such as the moon landing—is a recurring theme. In another sense, the release of such a limited edition is itself a notable event to be marked and remembered in years to come.
The silvered dial features applied Arabic numerals in rose gold.
The manufacture Piaget 800P movement is visible through the sapphire crystal exhibition back.
The 43mm case is a combination of rose gold and white gold set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.5 carats.
PERFECT MATCH Piaget Polo 30th Anniversary celebrates the appearance in 1979 of an icon. Its modern lines are updated for the 21st century and embellished with diamonds. contact: 800.628.8119, piaget.com edition: 300
pieces, $23,000
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\ 0005 THE LIMITED EDITION AS AN INVESTMENT In some cases, limited editions appreciate in value over the years. Although it is a somewhat dubious reason to buy a limited edition, many owners have successfully sold limited editions at auction and made gains. There is no way to know, however, which limited edition will make for a good investment. For this reason, it’s advisable to purchase a limited edition based on love of the watch, rather than as a speculative investment. If it does appreciate, so much the better.
The dial is a system of concentric rotating discs that depict the rising and setting of the sun, the phases of the moon and the gravitational influence of the sun and moon on ocean tides. It is the first astronomical wristwatch to indicate the sun’s effect on the oceans.
A quick-setting mechanism adjusts the date indicator, and pushbuttons adjust the hour hand backward or forward for easy setting when moving across time zones.
LUNAR ORBIT Ulysse Nardin’s Moonstruck is an astronomical watch presenting a scientifically accurate depiction of the phases of the moon and the global influence of lunar and solar cycles on the tides. contact: 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com edition: 500
pieces in each precious metal; $88,000 in rose gold, $113,000 in platinum
\ 0006 THE LIMITED EDITION AS A SHOWPIECE A limited edition can function as a showcase of a maker’s perhaps previously unknown capabilities. It can allow a brand to exhibit its technical innovation or its expertise in a field such as gemsetting. It can also generate notoriety and contribute significantly to a maker’s reputation. No wonder so many watch companies spend a great deal of effort on the planning, production and promotion of limited editions: a successful limited edition can put a brand on the map.
An open dial design allows for a unique view of the minute repeater mechanism with its twin hammers, gracefully engraved with Harry Winston’s initials, on the exterior of the movement. The mechanism is activated by the pushpiece at 8.
Sleek and sophisticated, the 42mm case is fitted with a dial featuring a delicate circular finish, off-center time display and a single sparkling diamond.
MUSICAL MOMENT The Midnight Minute Repeater by Harry Winston celebrates the refinement and complexity of one of the most exclusive horological complications, a striking mechanism that chimes the time.
The self-winding mechanical movement is augmented by the minute repeater complication, one of the most challenging complications to craft. It audibly indicates the time on demand, chiming a low pitch for the hours, an alternating low and high pitch for the quarter hours, and a high pitch for the minutes.
contact: 800.988.4110, harrywinston.com edition: 40
pieces in each color of gold; $248,400 in rose gold, $253,300 in white gold
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©2008 Orbita Corporation
Fine watches stay wound, while their owners unwind.
View the TOURBILLON – THREE and all of our luxury watchwinders at orbita.com.
\ 0007 THE LIMITED EDITION AS TRULY LIMITED By virtue of their label, limited editions should guarantee small production runs, certainly under 1,000 pieces and, for higher-end watches, significantly fewer than that. The phrase “limited edition” has taken something of a beating in recent years because of the proliferation of low-end, large-run special editions of perhaps 3,000 or 5,000 pieces—many tied to licensing agreements or cross-branding projects— that are promoted as limited editions. Of course, the smaller the edition, the more exclusive, and the more valuable.
The tourbillon is presented by the world’s most accomplished watchmakers as a tour de force demonstration of the highest skills. The meticulously finished tourbillon carriage is visible beneath a specially treated red bridge affixed to the signature Mega Tapisserie patterned dial.
A blackened steel case features distinctively crisp geometry and matching blackened steel crown and pushbuttons. The caseback is engraved “Las Vegas Strip.”
FOUR OF A KIND Las Vegas is the place where, with a little luck, dreams can come true. Inspired by this oasis in the desert, Audemars Piguet presents the Royal Oak Las Vegas Strip Collection of chronograph wristwatches in four variations: a chronograph, a chronograph in white gold with diamonds, a ladies’ selfwinding chronograph in white gold with diamonds, and a tourbillon chronograph.
A special presentation box contains two sets of Audemars Piguetbranded playing cards and a full set of AP poker chips.
888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com
contact:
edition: 35
sets of four watches, $173,100
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B A S E LW O R L D THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 18 – 25, 2010
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SPAIN’S FINEST GOLDSMITHS APPLY THEIR ALCHEMY TO A PULSE-QUICKENING LINE OF WATCHES.
spanish sun In the Middle Ages and even earlier, a group of mystics, scientists, artists and dreamers known as alchemists—many from Spain—were obsessed with transmuting substances of little value, typically lead, into a substance of great value, usually gold. To these practitioners, the sun was a particularly important symbol because of its warmth and life-giving qualities. Today, the Spanish jewelry house Carrera y Carrera has an updated definition of alchemy: to transform a substance of great intrinsic value, i.e., gold, into an object of even
greater value, i.e., a piece of exquisite jewelry. In recent years, the goal of their “alchemists,” whose ranks include some of the finest goldsmiths and artists on earth, has expanded to include transforming fine Swiss watches into elegant jewelry— putting the sun on the wearer’s wrist, in a manner of speaking. Evemarie Eyde, Carrera y Carrera’s New York–based VP of sales, wasn’t actually wearing the sun on her wrist when we met at Carrera y Carrera’s West 57th Street offices; it was on her right ring finger instead. Elegant, formidable and very heavy, the Ruedo
BY BERNIE LIBSTER
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ring was to become part of my crash course in gold, jewelry and this extraordinary Spanish maker. The filigree work on the ring, Eyde explained, was inspired by the embroidery on the traditional uniform of the bullfighter, el torero, and the ring’s shape mimics the bullfighting arena. In keeping with Spanish culture, a castanet element has also been incorporated into the design. All the artistry that went into the ring, including the castanet motif, has been applied to the Ruedo watch, one of the small but dazzling pieces in Carrera y Carrera’s
Ruedo Collection ring and Pulso watch
THE CARRERAS ARE A FAMILY OF SCULPTORS WHOSE MEDIUM HAPPENS TO BE GOLD. Pulso Jewelry Watch series. (Incidentally, all Carrera y Carrera Jewelry Watches come with interchangeable bezels, a feature unique among watches.) Eyde explained that other makers produce gold watches, but they aren’t necessarily goldsmiths. “Carrera y Carrera is the only Spanish international jeweler in the watch world, and our watches are extensions of our jewelry line. The Carreras are a family of sculptors whose medium happens to be gold.” Nevertheless, she was careful to point out that the high-quality quartz movement, although designed in Spain, is 100-percent Swiss made; she also hinted slyly that this might not be the case for all “Swiss made” watches. The bullfighter motif notwithstanding, the petite and elegant Ruedo and other Carrera y Carrera watches are clearly aimed at women. “Our customer is definitely somebody interested in style, quality and uniqueness. These watches are not for the woman who wants to be like anyone else. Each watch looks different
on everybody, has its own mystique. The watch becomes part of you.” Would a man wear such a pretty watch? I was about to find out. Trying on both the ring and the watch, I found that both felt substantial. And both looked gorgeous. I was quickly taken in by the allure of the gold and the craftsmanship— and by the weight. As it turns out, an increasing number of men around the world are wearing these pieces, so if one day I decide to invest in a Carrera y Carrera, I won’t be alone. Men’s model cases measure 42.6mm, compared to the 36.6mm women’s cases. Men’s models come in rose or white gold with a tobacco brown or black crocodile strap; women’s models are available in yellow or white gold with a choice of silk or crocodile strap. Carrera y Carrera’s Pulso collection includes the Aqua and Ruedo series, matched to the jewelry collections of the same names. The new Baile de Mariposas (Dance of the Butterflies) version, featuring a white gold and diamond butterfly motif medallion as the
SEEKING OUT THE SUN
Searching for your own piece of the sun? Find the complete Carrera y Carrera line at Cellini, located in the Waldorf-Astoria in New York, at select Neiman Marcus branches and at select fine retailers around the country. Carrera y Carrera has plans to expand its network of retail dealers step by step in the US.
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dial cover on the 36.6mm white gold case, debuts in December. Perhaps every Carrera y Carrera jewelry collection will ultimately have its watch counterpart. Launched earlier this year, the Pulso watches are already popular throughout Europe—in France and Italy as much as in Spain—as well as in Latin America, the Middle East, Asia and, increasingly, the US. “In a way, gold and the sun are synonymous, and people everywhere are attracted to the sun,” Eyde commented. “The magic comes in when you can turn something common into something divine.” Was she talking about goldsmithing or alchemy or both? There is certainly something transforming not only about gold but also about the way Carrera y Carrera’s master goldsmiths fashion it. Eyde and I admired the craftsmanship of several more pieces, including an exquisite Maxi Shanghai pendant based on a Chinese lucky dragon design, then we pored over a catalog of select jewelry with photos taken by the Spanish photographer Martin Blazquez. Impressive as the photos were, if you want to really know what it feels like to wear the sun on your wrist, there’s no substitute for seeing, holding, wearing the real thing. And when you do, be prepared to be transformed. Wearing the sun will do that to you. 800.CYC.8229, carreraycarrera.com
SERENADE Dual Time Zones Automatic, Patented GV- AOASE Movement 18K White Gold, Louisiana Crocodile, Limited Edition: 50 Pieces
www.gevril.com
Pulso watch interchangeable bezel and jewelry cover
a finger on the
Pulso
This summer’s Couture 2009 trade show at the Wynn Las Vegas served as Carrera y Carrera’s platform for debuting its Pulso watch. The Pulso collection now comprises seven models—five for women and two for men. The women’s watches have 36.6mm cases, two in 18-karat yellow gold and three in 18-karat white gold. All powered by ETA 955.412 quartz movements, they display the hour and minutes via leaf-shaped hands beneath scratch-resistant,
anti-reflective sapphire crystals and are water-resistant to 30 meters. Each crown is shaped to resemble a castanet, topped with a spinel cabochon; each caseback is decorated with spiral guilloché engraving, and each watch is finished with either a crocodile leather or silk strap. However, various interchangeable covers that implement design touches from Carrera y Carrera’s jewelry collections serve to beautify and distinguish these watches. Ref. DC00801 01/269 is graced with an 18-karat yellow gold cover etched in the Aqua lattice pattern. Ref. DC00801 01/270 and DC00801 02/271 add a total of 216 diamonds (2.24 carats) on the case and bezel interior, and arranged in two rows on the covers with the Aqua lattice pattern in 18karat yellow gold. While it has no jewelry cover, Ref. DC00802 02/272 is set with 148 diamonds (1.49 carats) on the case, interchangeable bezel inserts, bezel interior and the dial, which is also engraved with details from Carrera y Carrera’s Ruedo jewelry collection. The newest addition to the collection, Ref. DC00803 02/287, features an interchangeable bezel and jewelry dial cover in the delicate Baile de Mariposas butterfly motif, embellished
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with 126 diamonds (0.316 carats) and a dial adorned with a trio of diamond-set butterflies (21 diamonds, 0.07 carats). The men’s watches—Ref. DC00900 13/273 and DC00901 02/274—have 42.6mm cases, one in 18-karat rose gold and one in 18-karat white gold. Both are powered by automatic mechanical ETA 2892-A2 movements and display leaf-shaped hour and minutes hands, seconds hand and date aperture at 6 beneath scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystals, and they are water-resistant to 30 meters. Like the women’s models, their crowns are castanet shaped and topped with a spinel cabochon, and the casebacks are decorated with spiral guilloché engraving. Their polished dials are engraved with the flowing pattern of Carrera y Carrera’s repeated signature Y. The timepieces are finished with either a tobacco brown or black crocodile leather strap. However, in addition to the features it shares with Ref. DC00900 13/273, Ref. DC00901 02/274 has two interchangeable 18-karat white gold bezel inserts— one with 58 diamonds (2.12 carats) and one without diamonds.
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CHARITY AUCTION OF M I L L I O N S I N M O N A C O. THE THIRD BIENNIAL ONLY WATCH EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES RAISES
Maker: Bell & Ross Model: BR01 Airborne One, a unique piece in titanium with PVD finish Sold: €34,000 ($49,810)
one and only
THE 34 EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES OF THIS SEPTEMBER’S ONLY WATCH AUCTION ACHIEVED A COMBINED TOTAL OF €2,285,500 ($3,333,616). Taking place in Monaco as part of the Monaco Yacht Show, and jointly organized by Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, Only Watch has become the most highly anticipated high watchmaking charity auction, drawing the attention and participation of watch collectors and aficionados from around the world. Bidders taking part in the elegant affair were not disappointed: the intriguing creations of some of the world’s top makers were to be found in Monaco that night. The Monegasque Association Against Muscular Dystrophy, which uses the proceeds of the sale to fund medical research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, also came away pleased. Luc Pettavino, president of the
Monaco Yacht Show and founder of the Monegasque Association Against Muscular Dystrophy, commented, “In the face of this marvelous result, I cannot but thank everyone from the bottom of my heart for everything that they have given of their talents to such a noble cause and with such humanity, excellence and altruism.” The auction items, donated by their makers in support of the charitable cause, are primarily one-of-a-kind wristwatches produced especially for Only Watch. Exceptional watches, brought together by exceptional people in support of an exceptional cause: this is the confluence of circumstances that makes Only Watch, well, exceptional.
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Maker: Blancpain Model: 500 Fathoms, a unique piece in brushed titanium with anthracite dial and sapphire crystal exhibition back
Sold: €22,000 ($32,230)
Maker: Ulysse Nardin Model: Freak Black Out, a unique piece in white gold with seven-day carrousel tourbillon movement “Only Watch benefits a charitable organization without overhead, where all proceeds are used for the intended purpose of medical research. It is a pleasure to be part of supporting it. We selected an attractive creation with the Freak Black Out, which is bound to stimulate the auction.” —Rolf Schnyder, president, Ulysse Nardin
SOLD: €87,000 ($127,455)
Maker: Montblanc Model: Star Nicolas Rieussec, a unique piece in platinum with monopusher chronograph and open date
SOLD: â‚Ź39,000 ($57,135)
Maker: Bovet Fleurier Model: Collection Witness 1822 Amadeo Trilogy, a unique convertible clock/ wristwatch/pocket watch in rose gold with jumping hours and motherof-pearl dial with miniature painting SOLD: â‚Ź90,000 ($131,850)
Maker: Audemars Piguet Model: Jules Audemars Equation of Time, a unique piece in rose gold with perpetual calendar and equation of time indicating true solar time in Monaco “Only Watch is about exclusive and unique timepieces for a good cause, and unique is the key word. The magical thing about the Equation of Time is the fact that customers can personalize the watch to any city in the world. The watch will display the true zenith of the sun in that city. Audemars Piguet’s Only Watch 2009 Equation of Time shows the zenith for Monaco and indicates sunrise and sunset times, astronomical moon and perpetual calendar.” —Philippe Merk, CEO, Audemars Piguet
SOLD: €70,000 ($102,550)
Maker: Cartier Model: Santos Triple 100, a unique piece with faceted louver dial adjustable to white gold, dragonmotif engraved white gold, or a view of the skeletonized movement
SOLD: €70,000 ($102,550)
SOLD: â‚Ź58,000 ($84 ,970)
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Photos By John B. Holbrook, II
Maker: MB&F Model: HM2, a un ique piece in white gold and titanium with blued gold butt erfly motif designed by Sage Vaughn
Maker: Chanel Model: J12 Joaillerie, a unique piece in ceramic with sapphires and diamonds and automatic chronograph movement
SOLD: €30,000 ($43,950)
Maker: Van Cleef & Arpels Model: Midnight in Monaco, a unique piece in white gold with engraved and enameled landscape of Monaco on the caseback and rotating aventurine dial depicting the night sky over Monaco SOLD: €50,000 ($73,250)
Maker: Franc Vila Model: Evos 8 Cobra, a unique automatic chronograph in blackened steel with big date
SOLD: €16,000 ($23,440)
Maker: Hublot Model: King Power Foudro yante All Black, a unique piece in micro-blasted black cerami c with split-seconds chrono graph SOLD: €31,000 ($45,415)
Maker: Zenith 9, a unique Model: New Vintage 196 el paying ste ess piece in stainl iversary of ann h 40t the tribute to graph movement the El Primero chrono SOLD: €10,000 ($14,650)
Maker: Girard-Perregaux Model: The ww.tc Ceramic, a unique piece in black ceramic and titanium with flyback chronograph and world time functions SOLD: €22,000 ($32,230) “Participating in Only Watch is an intelligent way for a manufacture to support an important cause. It is also an excellent opportunity to show Girard-Perregaux’s creativity in designing an exclusive timepiece. It is a privilege to be part of the auction of unique timepieces made by some of the most prestigious Swiss watch brands.” —Stefano Macaluso, vice-president, Girard-Perregaux
Maker: Confrérie Horlogère Model: Les Masters La Clef du Temps Tourbillon, a unique piece in titanium with pace of time indication SOLD: €280,000 ($410,334)
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Maker: Cabestan Model: Winch Tourbillon Vertical, a unique piece in a combination of titanium, PVd-finished titanium, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold and platinum Sold: €220,000 ($322,405)
Maker: Piaget Model: Emperador Coussin, a unique piece in rose gold with moon phase indication, celebrating man’s first step on the moon “Piaget has always been very involved with charity, and we have supported Only Watch since the first edition. For Only Watch 2009, we looked for an original angle. The fact that we launched a superb Emperador with moon phase on the anniversary of the first moonwalk gave us the idea for the footprint.” —Philippe Léopold-Metzger, CEO, Piaget
Sold: €23,000 ($33,695)
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Maker: Ateliers de Monaco Model: Carré d’Or Black Casino, a unique piece with gold panels mounted on a titanium core SOLD: €50,000 ($73,250)
Maker: Patek Philippe Model: Celestial, Ref. 5106, a unique piece in rose gold with date and astronomical display “We decided to create a unique version of the Celestial model because astronomical complications remain among the rarest and the most intriguing of complications. The sky is a source of inspiration, a source of hope, hope as made possible by Only Watch.” —Thierry Stern, president, Patek Philippe
SOLD: €535,000 ($783,987)
G Heuer Maker: TA um with in platin 4 V o c a n o ovement Model: M tomatic m u a n e ar v i r belt-d ngot line ungsten i t a y b d woun ng weight oscillati ) 0 ($80,575 SOLD: â‚Ź55,00
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Maker: omega
Model: Seamaster Ploprof 1200M, a unique piece in rose gold with automatic co-axial movement Sold: €50,000 ($73,250)
Maker: delaCour Model: Bichrono S3 Asphalt Graphite, a unique piece in PVd-finished steel with graphite bezel, asphalt dial, dual time zones and chronograph Sold: €16,000 ($23,440)
Maker: Vacheron Constantin Model: Quai de l’Ile, a unique piece in tantalum and palladium with automatic movement and date indication “In 2005, we met with Luc Pettavino who presented his research funding project with such passion that we could not refuse to support his incredible plan. Often at Vacheron Constantin, grand projects begin with the inspiration of passionate people. For this year’s auction, we chose to go with our Quai de l'Ile. The modularity and flexibility this collection offers fits neatly with the spirit of research needed when fighting diseases such as Duchenne muscular dystrophy.” —Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO, Vacheron Constantin
Sold: €50,000 ($73,250)
Maker: Corum a unique piece Model: Ti-Bridge, ette movement with titanium bagu t gives Corum an “The Only Watch projec creativity to the its opportunity to apply Every child has the se. service of a noble cau s will become am right to believe his dre port Only Watch. sup reality; that is why we its commitment by This year Corum shows and exclusive model us offering a truly precio ecially for Only of the Ti-Bridge made esp te from Antoine de quo a Watch and featuring it Prince: ‘Les enfants Saint-Exupéry’s Le Pet rchent’ (only children seuls savent ce qu’ils che king for).” know what they are loo rum Co O, —Antonio Calce, CE
Sold: €14,000 ($20,510)
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Maker: Franck Muller
Maker: Breguet
Model: Ref. 9880 Munegu, a unique piece in gold with roulette wheel
Model: Travel Clock, No. 1/7 in sterling silver and rock crystal with temperature display
SOLD: €26,000 ($38,090)
SOLD: €80,000 ($117,200)
Maker: Jaquet Droz
Maker: Gérald Charles Model: Big Date Turtle, a unique piece in white gold with turtlemotif small seconds SOLD: €28,000 ($41,020)
Model: Grande Seconde Ceramique, a unique piece in white ceramic with red enamel dial
SOLD: €15,000 ($21,975)
Maker: de Bethune Model: Periodique Convertible, a unique convertible pocket watch/wristwatch in palladium white gold with silicon/platinum balance and deBethune spiral Sold: â‚Ź90,000 ($131,850)
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Maker: louis Vuitton Model: Tambour, a unique piece in white gold with presentation travel case and travel booklets designed by Paul Pettavino Sold: €45,000 ($65,925)
Maker: Chaumet Model: No. 1/1 dandy Arty edition, a unique piece in rose gold
Sold: €18,000 ($26,370)
Maker: Tourneau Model: Classic 1900 II Automatic Jump Hour, a unique piece in rose gold with sterling silver guilloché dial Sold: €12,500 ($18,313)
FRICTION MUST BE DEALT WITH WHEREVER TWO MOVING PARTS TOUCH EACH OTHER. B Y S T E P H E N P R I E S T H O F F
H OW
IT
W ORKS
BATTLING FRICTION INSIDE EVERY MECHANICAL WATCH, THERE IS A CONSTANT BATTLE GOING ON. ON ONE END OF THE WORKINGS IS A POWERFUL MAINSPRING COILED WITH TREMENDOUS POTENTIAL ENERGY, at the other end are very delicate and intricate pieces counting out fractions of seconds with a degree of accuracy and reliability we recognize as precision timekeeping. Between these two points are the works that constitute a menagerie of moving parts. These parts are connected by the gear teeth of wheels mounted on axles turning in bearings. There are springs that slide against one another, pawls that need to jump, beaks pressing against cams and parts that roll against each other. When any of these parts touch, they produce friction, and that is where the battle begins. For something as sensitive as a watch, friction can be the cause of numerous malfunctions, unexpected events that run contrary to the
purpose of a watch, which is to supply a consistent result. The escapement helps the balance to supply time in recognized fractions of a second. In certain watches, for instance, watchmakers strive to get each to occur at intervals of exactly 1/5 of a second, every second, minute, hour and day. Around the clock, 432,000 times a day, such a watch must overcome friction in order to conform to its duty. How is friction overcome? Well, lubrication might seem like the obvious answer, but oil alone does not necessarily solve the problem. Whenever I begin to wonder how something works inside a watch, I visualize a gigantic model. I imagine that I can walk right down into the works. What I see is quite interesting. For instance, the axles and the bearings can be viewed very closely at this scale, and when the watch is running, I can hear them banging around as the forces of motion push the axles from side to side within the bearing. Yes, there is enough room for that in this simple but effective arrangement, and where the two components meet, there is an immense bath of swirling oil. In watchmaking, these steel axles are known as pivots, and the bearings—not roller or ball bearings but simple bushings made of synthetic ruby—are known as jewels.
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JEWELS THE RUBIES, ALSO KNOWN AS JEWELS, ON THE LITTLE LANGE 1 MOONPHASE BY A. LANGE & SÖHNE HELP TO ALLEVIATE A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT OF FRICTION.
Today's gear teeth are created with an astounding degree of accuracy backed up by complex geometry.
This excursion illustrates a truth about the battle against friction. A lubricant applied in the right amount and in the right place—such as the swirling oil in the ruby bearing described above—alleviates a considerable amount of friction, but first the mating surfaces must fit correctly. Excellent quality and perfect sizing of the parts are essential to reliability. A pivot, literally a cylinder shape with shoulders, is created using a special blend of steel designed to be very hard with some flexibility. The part is turned on a lathe to a diameter slightly larger than needed, then it is burnished to the final size. The jewel—the other half of the friction-canceling arrangement—is formed precisely for its function: it is a doughnut shape of extremely exact dimensions (height, hole diameter and overall size). The material, synthetic corundum, can be sized without deviation to very tiny tolerances. The inside of the hole, the wall, is polished smooth to accommodate the pivot. Together they match up in such a way that the two surfaces coincide with an exceptional degree of accuracy. It is only when these polished surfaces fit perfectly together that oil can adhere to them, easing friction. Oil also performs its duty on the escape wheel teeth of a Swiss lever escapement, on the mainspring barrel arbor and on the mainspring itself, just to name a few commonly oiled components of a basic mechanical movement. But when oil finds its way into the wrong spots, loses its ability to lubricate, or otherwise turns traitor,
it has a way of interfering with a watch’s sensitive mechanics. For example, if too much oil is applied, it can migrate away from the components it should be lubricating, leaving them vulnerable. If oil is applied to a dirty surface, it can flush out formerly benign particles, which when suspended in oil, form a destructive, cutting slurry. Oil
contemplated this statement. Because the oil available then was so rife with anomalies, a slew of interesting mechanisms were conceived and constructed with the goal of avoiding the need for oil altogether. A wellknown example is the detent escapement, which does not require oil. Because the slightest change in the consistency of oil applied to an escapement will affect timekeeping, often with random results, an escapement that requires no oil would theoretically perform better. In fact, the detent escapement proved highly accurate and made its way into ships’ chronometers, examples of which can still be found in service today. Over the years, as horologists worked toward better timepieces, they concentrated on the friction that could build up and stop a watch where the gears come together. Since then, the design of gear teeth has evolved so that today they are created with an astounding degree of accuracy backed up by complex geometry. Properly shaping the teeth and keeping them a certain distance apart will give us rolling friction. Improperly
DETENT ESCAPEMENT A HIGHLY ACCURATE AND DELICATE STYLE OF ESCAPEMENT THAT DELIVERS ONE IMPULSE PER OSCILLATION TO THE BALANCE; FOUND PRIMARILY IN TIMEPIECES WHERE ACCURACY IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE, SUCH AS IN MARINE CHRONOMETERS.
can dry up, get knocked away, or turn sticky. In addition, improper cleaning and oiling are the number-one causes of early failures, even of new watches. A properly oiled watch can operate safely for several years between cleanings, but even a new watch can be out of commission in a few short weeks as a result of improper oiling. Yes, oil can have a detrimental effect just as great as its beneficial effect; it is not a cure-all in the world of watchmaking. Far from it. Back in the late 18th century, the King of France asked his watchmaker, AbrahamLouis Breguet, to make a perfect watch. Breguet’s reply was, “When I find the perfect oil, I will give you the perfect watch.” Since that day, many great minds have
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designed, the teeth will slide against each other producing friction and wear. If oil is used here it can quickly deteriorate, get lost or become sticky. None of these conditions can be tolerated in a watch. But when gear teeth simply roll against each other, the result is vastly different. Rolling friction can be tolerated without oil. Through evolutionary technical improvements such as these and through the judicious application of the appropriate oil in the appropriate places, damaging friction is held at bay. Stephen Priesthoff is a watchmaker by training and currently serves as technical director for Maîtres du Temps.
+ WATCH JOURNAL REVIEW
IWC AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH | D I V E WATC H M E ETS C H R O N O G R A P H I N I WC ' S N EW AQ UAT I M E R TEXT BY: JOHN B. HOLBROOK II
In the world of luxury mechanical watches, the sport watch segment
reigns supreme in popularity. Within the segment, dive watches and chronographs are the biggest sellers, and most popular with mechanical sport watch enthusiasts. So it makes sense that watch manufacturers would combine the two functionalities into a single timepiece, which in theory would be the holy grail of sport watches. Enter the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph in rose gold.
The Aquatimer Chronograph, Ref. IW376903
This Aquatimer, Ref. IW376903, is one of several newly redesigned Aquatimer models. Perhaps the biggest change to emerge in the redesigned is to the bezel. Since 1999, IWC’s Aquatimer had used a rotating internal bezel, which had the advantage of not being easily moved once set by the user (an important safety feature for divers) but also carried a strong disadvantage in that it could not be easily adjusted
while wearing gloves. The new Aquatimer now features a more traditional external rotating bezel. Like several other luxury watch manufacturers (including Blancpain and Rolex), IWC seems to be experimenting with using non-traditional materials in the construction of its bezel— in this case, scratch-resistant sapphire over Super-LumiNova numerals. The combination provides excellent scratch resistance and impressive low-light visibility.
Like most dive-style bezels, the bezel on the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph rotates only in one direction—counterclockwise. The feature is intended to enhance safety by reducing the possibility that the bezel could be unintentionally moved from the usercontrolled position, causing a critical error in dive timing. Attached to the 44mm, solid rose gold case (water-resistant to 12 bar) is an innovative new bracelet replacement system that
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not only makes strap and bracelet changes quicker and easier but also reduces the possibility of scratching the watch case while performing a strap change. At the same time, the new system also offers an incredibly secure installation, making unintended separation of the strap from the watch case extremely unlikely. One might question the use of a relatively soft metal like gold in the construction of a serious diving tool, but there’s no denying the touch of elegance brought to the IWC Chronograph in rose gold by the warm, reddish precious metal. Attached to the black vulcanized rubber dive strap on this Aquatimer Chronograph is a case-matching rose gold clasp, signed by the manufacturer. The chronograph pushers and crown on the right side of the case all have rubber elements incorporated, which coordinate nicely with the strap and make the crown easier to grip and turn. Affixed to the caseback of the watch is another elegant touch—a sapphire crystal display back for viewing the well-decorated IWC Caliber 89360.
Photos by John B. Holbrook II
The well-decorated IWC Caliber 89360
The crown side of the 15.5mm thick case; matching rose gold buckle
The double-pawl winding system is so efficient in terms of energy consumption that the weight of the rotor can be reduced, resulting in less wear.
The Aquatimer Chronograph in rose gold is the first Aquatimer to receive the new, all in-house designed and manufactured IWC Caliber 89360, a selfwinding mechanical movement (courtesy of the extremely efficient IWC double-pawl winding system) with power reserve of 68 hours. Caliber 89360 also features a flyback chronograph and quick-set date function. It wasn’t long ago that the entire IWC line was made up of watches with outsourced movements, but in recent years, IWC has made great strides in designing and manufacturing its own movements—a capability which tends to raise the level of respect a manufacturer garners among enthusiasts. And the use of this caliber brings a level of sophistication to the Aquatimer Chronograph that few other luxury sport watches can claim.
If the redesigned bezel is a departure for this model, then the new Aquatimer’s dial design is an object lesson in tradition. The foundation of the dial is the black checkerboard design, so reminiscent of past Aquatimer dials. Encircling the dial are case-matching rose gold baton markers, which, like the bezel, are coated with ample amounts of Super-LumiNova. The subdials incorporate both white and red elements, which not only coordinate nicely with the bezel, but also provide excellent contrast against the black background of the dial. Like the baton markers, the watch hands are SuperLumiNova coated rose gold, and the chronograph seconds hand is tipped with red for enhanced visibility as it crosses the markers. I am particularly impressed with the unique
layout of the subdials. Most traditional chronograph dials feature three registers—two for tracking elapsed hours and minutes and one indicating running seconds. IWC has chosen to combine elapsed hours and minutes totalizers into a single register at 12 and place the seconds register, which also contains a well-integrated date display, at 6. In my opinion, this design presents a more symmetrical, clean look than does the traditional threeregister layout. I didn’t find that combining the totalizers at 12 detracted in any way from their function or legibility. In fact, rarely have I seen a watch dial that was so aesthetically pleasing, functional and well thought out. The Aquatimer Chronograph in rose gold is IWC’s attempt at creating the ultimate sports
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watch. Whether it has succeeded or failed will be history’s to decide, but there’s certainly a lot to like about this watch. It features many contemporary design elements including innovative use of sapphire in the bezel, use of rubber in the case and strap, and the 44mm case size. Of course one cannot overlook the cachet provided by the in-house IWC Caliber 89360. The retail price of the IWC Aquatimer in rose gold is $19,900, which places it squarely in the luxury timepiece category, but this timepiece is well worth the price, given all that it brings to the table. iwc.ch John B. Holbrook, II, is a freelance writer, photographer and frequent contributor to Watch Journal; he operates the online luxury watch enthusiast community Watch Talk Forums.
+ WATCH JOURNAL REVIEW
SPACEWALK | SEIKO SPRING DRIVE SPACEWALK SOLD AT AUCTION
When entertainment entrepreneur, adventurer and space tourist Richard Garriott became the first second-generation space traveler from the US, he carried four
Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk watches with him to the International Space Station. On September 17th one of those watches, No. 6/6 in a limited edition produced specifically for Garriott’s space mission, was sold at auction by Antiquorum in New York City. The winning bid was $45,600, more than triple its high pre-sale estimate of $12,000.
AT GARRIOTT’S REQUEST, AUCTION PROCEEDS BENEFIT THE NATURE CONSERVANCY AND THE CHALLENGER CENTER FOR SPACE SCIENCE EDUCATION.
THE WATCH’S SPRING DRIVE CHRONOGRAPH CALIBER 5R86 USES A HIGH-ELASTICITY SPRON 510 MAINSPRING AND OFFERS 72-HOUR POWER RESERVE.
Garriott blasted off on October 12, 2008, aboard the Soyuz TMA-13 for a 12-day mission. The son of an astronaut, Garriott is a proponent of space tourism who believes anyone should be able to travel into space, and who spent his mission carrying out scientific and technological research. Throughout the mission, he wore the self-winding Seiko
Spring Drive Spacewalk, which functioned perfectly despite the lack of gravity during space flight and the extreme G-forces experienced during takeoff and re-entry. The watch was designed and built specifically for use in space. It combines the best characteristics of a mechanical watch with new technology in the form of the Tri-synchro regulator, which
uses electromagnetism to control timekeeping and replaces the balance and lever escapement of a traditional mechanical watch. Seiko will now offer a special limited edition version of the watch Garriott carried into space. Available early next year, the Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk commemorative edition, priced at $28,000, will
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vary from the actual space watch in only one respect: it will feature a screw-down crown. The titanium timepiece is 53mm in diameter and features a caseback engraved with the watch’s serial number. Functions include GMT and a 12-hour chronograph. Only 50 examples will be produced. 800.782.2510, seikousa.com, spaceadventures.com
ESSENTIAL GEAR. Invented in the United States. Made in Switzerland. F-22 RAPTOR CHRONOGRAPH No. 9282: 43mm, titanium case, screw-down crown & case back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, solid link titanium bracelet with security clasp, water resistant to 200 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of U.S. Air Force Pilots.
www.luminox.com Feldmar Watch Los Angeles 310-274-8016
Ravits
San Francisco 415-392-1947
Julianna’s Fine Jewelry
St. Thomas 340-776-4110
Nassau, Bahamas 242-302-2800
800-542-2389
888-994-1010
orvis.com
800-237-4444 cabelas.com
Corte Madera, CA 415-924-9711
Sausalito, CA 877-332-3636
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MENSWEAR MAVENS
Showing its support for today’s rising fashion world talent, Swiss watchmaker Piaget teamed up for the first time with young menswear designer Michael Bastian for his Spring 2010 runway show during New York Fashion Week. The result—sexy yet sophisticated styles that left editors wanting more. “Michael is taking an exciting new direction for this season’s show and he felt Piaget’s timepieces would be the perfect accessory,” says Larry Boland, president of Piaget North America. “He’s one of the most important voices in men’s fashion today, and we are proud to be partnering with him.” Piaget worked closely with Bastian to hand-select the perfect timepieces with which to accessorize his runway looks. Styles included the classic Piaget Altiplano and Protocole XXL and the Piaget Polo FortyFive—a titanium, steel and
GOLFING FOR WATCHES
TW Steel partnered with London Jewelers to sponsor the annual Hamptons Golf Classic at the Hampton Hills Golf and Country Club in Westhampton, NY, in June. Chris Duhon of the New York Knicks and Justin Tuck of the New York Giants hosted this year’s event to benefit Duhon’s Stand Tall Foundation, which addresses the needs of children through recreation. TW Steel and London Jewelers hosted a table inside the Hampton Hills clubhouse displaying a selection
The classic Piaget Altiplano
rubber sport watch. Bastian also specifically requested two vintage 18-karat gold Piaget Polo watches that he felt were perfect for the moment. A fitting choice, since this year marks the 30th anniversary of the maker’s iconic Polo timepiece. 800.628.8119, piaget.com
of TW Steel’s most popular styles. The winning golfer in a closest-to-pin contest at hole 5 was awarded one of TW Steel’s coveted oversized Tech watches. “London Jewelers has supported TW Steel since its US launch last year, and we were thrilled
Chris Duhon (New York Knicks) wearing TW Steel’s Tech watch
to be able to partner with them at the Hamptons Golf Classic,” says Scott Rosen, of Tempus Group Corporation, the exclusive distributor of TW Steel in the US. 415.732.7979, twsteel.com; londonjewelers.com
Hampton Hills Golf and Country Club
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PASSION AND SPIRIT
Chloë Sevigny
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Montauk Highway limited edition
PASSION FOR FASHION
To celebrate the arrival of Fashion Week in New York City in September, Audemars Piguet and François-Henry Bennahmias, president & CEO Audemars Piguet Americas, hosted a private dinner at the ultra-exclusive Standard Hotel’s Boom Boom Room in partnership with Olivier Zahm, editor and creative director of the cutting-edge French art and fashion magazine, Purple. Fashion industry icons, VIP guests and Hollywood celebrities attended, including Sean Penn, Daniel Craig, Lindsay Lohan, Mary-Kate Olsen & Nate Lowman, Chloë Sevigny, Milla Jovovich, Jared Leto, Leelee Sobieski, Terry Richardson, Sante D’Orazio, Carine Roitefeld, Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Leigh Lezark, Peaches Geldof, Miranda Kerr, and Arden Wohl, to name a few. Audemars Piguet had two events to celebrate that evening: the same week, the brand opened its new flagship boutique at 65 East 57th Street in New York City, its second in the US. Audemars Piguet celebrated the launch of the limited edition Royal Oak Offshore Montauk Highway this past July with a party in the Hamptons. The watch is named for the stretch of highway that links New Yorkers with the sun, surf and sea of the Hamptons. 888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com
Team Okalys-Corum took second place on the podium of the Challenge Julius Baer in Lausanne in September. The team, sponsored by Swiss watch brand Corum and led by skipper Nicolas Grange with Loïck Peyron at the helm, piloted the Decision 35 to a silver-medal victory behind Team Alinghi in the Grand Prix Beau-Rivage Palace on Lake Léman. The win was all the more remarkable since the Okalys-Corum team is comprised primarily of amateur sailors who were up against professional competitive sailors in this contest. Of his brand’s team sponsorship, Corum CEO Antonio Calce says, “A true link exists between Corum and team OkalysCorum. The team’s stellar performance is due to competence but also to passion and team spirit. Passion and spirit have permitted both Corum and the Okalys-Corum team to hoist themselves to the top of their fields.” Corum’s support of nautical sports also extends to sponsorship of the Grand Prix Corum. And what is such an event without an official watch? To fill the bill, Corum produces the Admiral’s Cup Black Hull 48 automatic chronograph chronometer in titanium. 949.788.6200, corum.ch
Photo by L. von Siebenthal
GROOVING FOR GOOD
Swiss watch brand Zenith and NBA stars Alonzo Mourning and Dwayne Wade were key players at the Summer Groove benefit dinner at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino on July 11th. The NBA stars hosted the five-day event, which benefits Alonzo Mourning Charities and Wade’s World Foundation. A live auction featured a handcrafted 18-karat rose gold and steel Men’s Defy watch donated by Zenith. Now in its 13th year, the Summer Groove raises funds to support programs and youth enrichment centers that promote positive change in socioeconomically depressed communities. “It is extremely admirable that two such icons of their sport invest the time, effort and energy to help those young people who have a desire to lead successful lives and fulfill their dreams. By giving an opportunity to today’s children, they are helping to create a better future for us all,” says Paul Ziff, president of Zenith North America. 866.260.0460, zenith-watches.com Alonzo Mourning, Paul Ziff of Zenith North America and Dwayne Wade
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Zenith Men’s Defy watch
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KING OF JEWELERS
Cartier panther brooch watch, ca. 1915
Beijing’s Palace Museum and Cartier present Cartier Treasures: King of Jewellers, Jewellers to Kings, an exhibition of Cartier masterpieces in the former Imperial Palace’s Exhibition Hall of the Meridian Gate. More than 350 items, including Cartier Collection archives dating from the founding of Cartier through the 1970s, will be displayed. Items include sumptuous jewelry, precious watches and other exceptional timepieces, such as the maison’s famous mystery clocks. Some of the items selected highlight the Chinese influence on Cartier’s creations: lacquer work inlaid with mother-ofpearl, ancient carved and engraved pieces of jade, and divinities and fantastic animals created by the jeweler’s hand. Such creations bear witness to the bonds that have united Cartier with the Far East since the beginning of the 20th century. Partly dedicated to royal jewels, which earned Cartier its reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers,” the exhibition will be illustrated by historical documents relating to European royal courts. Cartier Treasures: King of Jewellers, Jewellers to Kings is on display at the Palace Museum in Beijing through November 22nd. 800.CARTIER, cartier.com
Wempe Jewelers, Fifth Avenue HOW TO MULTITASK
Wempe Jewelers has renovated its Fifth Avenue flagship store. Start to finish, the renovations were complete in six weeks, and the New York City retailer remained open for business throughout. The Germany-based, family-owned company has a 130-year history and owns and operates 25 stores in six countries. Its newly renovated New York location reflects the aesthetic of a European-style salon as well as the importance of Wempe’s longstanding relationships with prestigious watch houses, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte. It also showcases Wempe’s own Zeitmeister and Chronometerwerke lines. Wempe’s commitment to customer service manifests itself in its newly expanded service atelier where five state-of-the-art workstations staffed by a team of experienced watchmakers are equipped to handle even the most challenging repairs. Visit the newly renovated shop at 700 Fifth Avenue at 55th Street. 212.397.9000, wempe.com
OPENING AT FORBES
The lobby of the landmark Forbes building in New York is the site of an exhibit showcasing the history of the luxury Swiss watch brand Bell & Ross and its watch collections. 23 watches are on display in the exhibit’s six showcases. Among these are five of Bell & Ross’s BR01 and BR03 watches, the company’s signature timepieces. The original inspiration for the BR01 and BR03 was taken from aeronautic instrumentation. Six Bell & Ross watches from its diving and professional collections are also on display including the BR02 dive watch and the Hydromax, waterresistant to 11,100 meters. 10 watches from the company’s Vintage and Geneva collections Bell & Ross watches at Forbes Galleries, New York
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are housed in two of the exhibit cases. The Vintage Collection watches are modeled after timepieces of the 1940s and are available in a variety of materials, including gold, platinum and diamonds. Built in 1924, the historic Forbes Building is located at 60 Fifth Avenue in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. The Forbes Gallery is the home of the Malcolm Forbes collection, which includes the late magnate’s lifelong collection of toys, a number of Fabergé eggs and an original Monopoly board. The Lobby Gallery hosts rotating exhibitions throughout the year. The Bell & Ross exhibit can be found inside the Fifth Avenue entrance through February 2010. 888.307.7887, bellross.com
Why choose between style and substance when you can have both? The Reactor Nucleus • Massive 50mm case with cur ved caseback • Ergonomic design for exceptional comfort • Unique two-eye chronograph movement • Forged from solid 316L stainless steel • Depth tested to 100M • MSRP $ 700- $ 750 U.S.
The Best Built Performance Sport Watch …period. Over 100 styles in the 2009 line. See them all at reactorwatch.com
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BALL RIDES THE B&O
Antique and contemporary BALL railroad watches came together on August 12th at the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum in Baltimore, MD, as part of an event introducing a new limited production BALL watch—the Fireman B&O First Mile timepiece. The watch commemorates the first mile of commercial track in the US, which terminates at the present site of the museum. Jeffrey Hess, president of BALL Watch USA, commented, “It is highly appropriate for BALL Watch to partner with the B&O Museum. After all, the Museum hosts a collection of historic BALL timepieces, and founder Webb C. BALL was a
pioneer in rationalizing timekeeping for American railroads, and indeed, for the US as a whole. When he founded the company, his operation was based in Ohio, and today we honor him and the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad with this new timepiece.” The mid-day launch was celebrated with a late afternoon reception at Little Treasury Jewelers of Gambrills, MD. 727.896.4278, ballwatchusa.com The Ball Fireman B&O First Mile
Jeffrey Hess, president of BALL Watch USA, presents the “first” First Mile Watch to Courtney Wilson MAKING WAVES
In early September, Ulysse Nardin and Serago Roberts Jewelers partnered to host an event introducing one of the prestige watch brand’s newest timepieces, the Black Ocean limited edition (1,846 pieces). Part of the Maxi Marine Diver collection, the Black Ocean features a scratch-resistant black DLC-treated stainless steel case, 42.7 mm in diameter. The wave-patterned black dial supports dark gray applied luminous indices and red subdial hands. A unidirectional rotating wave-patterned dive bezel adds to the overall design aesthetic. By late September, Ulysse Nardin had announced another even more exclusive limited edition in the Maxi Marine Diver collection, the Monaco YS, created in connection with its sponsorship of the 2009 Monaco Yacht Show. The 100-piece edition features rose gold accents on the dial and bezel and the Monaco YS insignia on the subdial. 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com
MUSIC TO THE WRIST
The Black Ocean limited edition
As usual, the Montreaux Jazz Festival brought big names to the stage this past summer. As a partner of the festival for the past three years, Parmigiani Fleurier presented many of the distinguished artists with limited edition timepieces to commemorate the event. This year’s recipients, including music makers Lily Allen, the Black Eyed Peas, Jamie Cullum, Alice Cooper, Chaka Khan, BB King and Wyclef Jean, were presented with Kalpa Grande
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Alice Cooper, Jean Marc Jacot and Claude Nobs wear Parmigiani
or Kalpa XL watches. Through the design of the dial, which features the light, harmonious swirl of a piano keyboard, Parmigiani expresses the company’s heartfelt link to the event. Available only in steel, the Kalpa is fitted with a white python skin strap for the Kalpa Grande version or with a blue alligator strap for the Kalpa XL version. 949.489.2885, parmigiani.com
NEW INstrumENt Br 01 tourBIlloN GolD 46 mm . rEGulator . PoWEr rEsErvE 120 hours t r u s t I N D E x . s at I N - P o l I s h E D P I N k G o l D c a s E 1 8 k . a l u m I N I u m f I B E r B r I D G E s a N D D I a l 5 N G o l D t o u r B I l l o N c a r r I a G E . l I m I t E D E D I t I o N t o 2 0 P I E c E s . I N f o r m at I o N , c ata l o G : B E l l & r o s s I N c . + 1 . 8 8 8 . 3 0 7 . 7 8 8 7 . I N fo r m at I o N @ B E l l r o s s u s a . c o m . W W W. B E l l r o s s . c o m
Antonio Stradivari, 1720
WAIT. GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 Full calendar
www.girard-perregaux.com
Indicators of the date, the day of the week, the month and the moon phases. Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement. Pink gold case. Sapphire back.
Available in authorized dealers and this fall in our Girard-Perregaux Boutique at 701 Madison Avenue, NY