Watch Journal Issue 1

PA N E R A I

PIAGET

ZENITH

XEMEX

WYLER GENÈVE

VA C H E R O N C O N S TA N T I N

URWERK

U LY S S E N A R D I N

TA G H E U E R

S E I KO

ROMAIN JEROME

RICHARD MILLE

R E AC TO R

RALPH LAUREN

Founded in 1860, the former supplier to the Royal Italian Navy is now a modern maker with eight of its own movements.

P AT E K P H I L I P P E

heritage

NOA

™

OMEGA

[ JOURNAL ]

NICOLET

MONTBLANC

MB&F

MAURICE LACROIX

LU M I N OX

LINDE WERDELIN

KRIËGER

JEANRICHARD

J A E G E R - L E C O U LT R E

H O RO LO S

HAUTLENCE

H A M I LT O N

GUCCI

GREUBEL FORSEY

GRAHAM

G LY C I N E

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

GEVRIL

ETERNA

EBEL

DIOR

DEWITT

de GRISOGONO

DE BEERS

CORUM

10: 2009 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

CONCORD

CITIZEN

C H R I S TO P H E C L A R E T

CHANEL

C A RT I E R

CARRERA Y CARRERA

C A R L F. B U C H E R E R

C A M PA N O L A

BRM

BREITLING

BELL & ROSS

BALL

AUDEMARS PIGUET

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

A SANDOW MEDIA PUBLICATION

WATCH THE WATCH MAGAZINE REDEFINED

style Offering more than just dual time, the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic features date, stop seconds and power reserve indication.

technology

The new caliber P.9001 is a proprietary automatic movement with 227 components, 4Hz frequency, bidirectional rotor and threeday power reserve.

Watch in black high-tech ceramic and 18K pink gold. 46 baguette-cut diamonds (est. TCW: 4.4 carats), dial set with diamond indicators.

Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve.

LIMITED EDITION.

CHANEL.COM • CHANEL BOUTIQUES • 800.550.0005

©2009 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®

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INDUSTRY WATCH

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The inside track from the world of watches—the brands, the business, the industry as a whole.

LUXE FINDER

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Watch Journal brings together top products from every corner of the luxury market.

047 053 058 048

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051

CHANEL

DIESEL HELMET

DIOR

Gems cut from high-tech ceramic are the thoroughly modern embellishments of Chanel's J12 Intense Black.

Safety goes high-style with fashion designer Diesel’s new Mowie motorcycle helmet.

The Christal Tourbillon attains an horological peak, but its aesthetic remains signature Dior.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

carbon meets ceramic meets steel, + Forged and the contrasts are key in the wildly popular Royal Oak Offshore chronograph.

152

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EVENT WATCH Who's doing what, where and why: discover how the watch industry influences events, philanthropy and celebrity.

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AGENT PROVOCATEUR

SEALING THE REAL DEAL

MANUFACTURE MOMENT

Carl F. Bucherer infiltrates the inner circle of concept car R&D firm Rinspeed.

A new quality standard supersedes the Geneva Seal at Patek Philippe.

The introduction of the P.900X series of movements solidifies Panerai's status as a manufacture.

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BON ANNIVERSAIRE The darling of both society and Hollywood types, Cartier celebrates its centenary in America with inimitable style.

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SEEING THE LIGHT IN BERLIN A. Lange & Sรถhne unleashed a sensation by presenting its digimech Zeitwerk timepiece.

SIGNATURE STRATEGY Japanese giant Citizen takes on the Swiss with attractively priced complicated models.

A LESSON IN COMPLICATIONS Ten of the top mechanical complications and a few of the incredible timepieces that exemplify them: study up.

dior.com 1 866 675 2078

DIOR CHRISTAL Automatic movement Sapphire crystal & diamonds

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WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

IN FOCUS A closer look at a significant mechanism or model; in this issue: the Carl F. Bucherer A1000, page 38, and the all new Hamilton Ventura, page 42.

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5 MINUTES WITH Notable personalities and the watches that make them tick; in this issue: Marc Michel-Amadry of Ebel, page 84, and actress Zhang Ziyi, page 86.

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HOW IT WORKS Spring into action: essential knowledge about the part that powers every mechanical watch, from the humblest to the most complex.

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PERFORMANCE

SPORT

BUSINESS

The sensational TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M in action.

How Ebel is playing to win loyal fans around the world.

What happens in Vegas reflects the strength of the industry when watch buyers and sellers meet at JCK.

ON THE COVER The Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic and its Caliber P.9001 represent a new manufacture milestone.

ONE WATCH. T WO BRAINS.

DUOMÈTRE À CHRONOGRAPHE. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380/1000® Unprecedented “Dual-Wing” concept with two separate watch mechanisms synchronised by one single regulating organ. Especially created for the first-ever chronograph without a coupling-clutch, accurate to 1/6 th of a second.

HAVE YOU EVER WORN A REAL WATCH?

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WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

THE EVOLUTION

of the watch magazine

Welcome to the next generation in watch magazines. the acquisition of InSync by Sandow media last year was the first of many steps we took in planning for this inaugural issue, and now the time has finally come for InSync to transform into the watch magazine of the future—Watch Journal. this groundbreaking new magazine was created to help grow watch culture. our dramatic designs and layouts provide readers with inventive stories, inspiring visuals and plenty of high-level watch and luxury editorial. with each page, you will experience the greatest timepieces in the world through easily accessible information and stunning photography that will entertain, enlighten and inspire like never before. now, thousands of private jet travelers also have access to Watch Journal through Sandow media’s network of high-end newsstands found in leading private airports (fBos) across the nation. to ensure our readers will always be provided with the highest level of editorial, up-to-date information and industry news, we have established an executive advisory board whose members include the leading watch experts in the US. with their leadership and knowledge, they will help guide this magazine to achieve its goal of expanding the market for fine watches. Watch Journal will continue to reach out to an even broader, more affluent audience and deliver the finest in watch journalism. our staff is excited about this new opportunity to serve you and future ‘Journal’ readers, and we encourage your frequent feedback. Please e-mail editor@watchjournal.com with any comments or suggestions.

— Glen B. Bowen PUBliSher

Launched 1997

Watch Journal Advisory Board Chairman Robert Filotei, former VP, Cartier, and former president, Piaget and Panerai; Stephane Barraque, president, Dior Watches; Andrew Block, executive SVP, Tourneau; Ralph Destino, former president, Cartier and Vendome NA; Richard Horne, president, Shreve & Company; Ronald Jackson, president, Girard-Perregaux USA and JeanRichard USA; Steven Kaiser, CEO/president, Kaiser Time; David King, owner, King Jewelers; Stacie Orloff, president, Bell & Ross; Jeremy Oster, president/owner, Oster Jewelers; Nick Stellino, president, Stellino Productions; Paul Ziff, president, Zenith NA

26 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

Redefined 2009

More

than

250

y e a r s o f c o n t i n u o u s h i sto ry …

1825. When the world’s first railway line was inaugurated in England, Vacheron Constantin was 70 years old.

Historiques AmericAn 1921 Ø 40 mm pink gold case. calibre 4400 Hallmark of Geneva. Hand-wound mechanical movement. small second at 3 o’clock. see-through caseback. strap in alligator leather. Water-resistant to 3 bar (~100 feet or 30 m).

82035/000r-9359

For information call 877-862-7555 - www.vacheron-constantin.com

[ J O U R N A L ]™ T H E WAT C H M AG A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D

Glen B. Bowen PUBLISHER

DESIGN DIRECTOR C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R SENIOR DESIGNERS E D I TO R I A L D I R E CTO R I N T E R N AT I O N A L E D I T O R V I N TA G E W AT C H E D I T O R CONTRIBUTING EDITOR COPY CHIEF SENIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER PHOTO RETOUCHER T R A F F I C C O O R D I N AT O R A S S I S TA N T E D I T O R E D I T O R I A L C O O R D I N AT O R PHOTO EDITOR A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R CLIENT SERVICES EXECUTIVE CONTRIBUTORS

Dean Sebring Carole Wilmot Alvaro Diaz-Rubio, Valerie Sebring Marie A. Picon Keith W. Strandberg L. Michael Fultz Liz Ritter Emily Alice Sacks Timothy B. Wooten Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias Isabelle Rios Bill Albers Kay Hodgdon Amanda Silversmith Brittany Kaplan Hayley Merrill Maurice Bobb, John B. Holbrook II Stephen Priesthoff

Adam I. Sandow CHAIRMAN AND CEO

V I C E P R E S I D E N T C R E AT I V E A N D E D I T O R I A L EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT C O R P O R AT E M A N A G I N G E D I T O R VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND GROUP PUBLISHER D I R E C T O R O F I N F O R M AT I O N T E C H N O L O G Y DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES D I R E C T O R O F M A N U FA C T U R I N G A N D D I S T R I B U T I O N DIRECTOR OF FINANCE AND ACCOUNTING ACCOUNTING MANAGER A C C O U N T S PAYA B L E M A N A G E R ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE MANAGER COLLECTIONS MANAGER SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER A C C O U N T I N G A S S I S TA N T HUMAN RESOURCES C L I E N T S E R V I C E C O O R D I N AT O R EVENT MANAGER I N T E R ACT I V E D I R E CTO R O F D E V E LO P M E N T D ATA B A S E A D M I N I S T R AT O R W E B D E V E LO P E R A S S I S TA N T T O T H E C E O O P E R AT I O N S M A N A G E R O P E R AT I O N S A D M I N I S T R AT I O N D I G I TA L P R I N T C E N T E R M A N A G E R D I G I TA L P R I N T C E N T E R N E W S S TA N D C O N S U LTA N T

V

S

N D O W

Scott R. Yablon Yolanda E. Yoh Erik I. Herz Pamela Lerner Jaccarino Michael J. Ruskin Brian A. Yablon Joseph Alexander Fern E. Meshulam Andrea Efland Kristen Delisio Shirley Cruz Stephanie Malmgren Julia Perez Jody L. Yablon Andrea Goldman Lisa Silver Monica Del Borrello Stephanie Brady Brian Wilpon Richard Bartho William Joey Green Christina Flick Rick Jacobs Andrea Ocampo, Tamas Szakal Maritza Severino, Carrie Yovell Christopher Ferris Max Kreutzer, Dennis Kuno Ron Sklon

M E D I

V

C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R & C H I E F F I N A N C I A L O F F I C E R

™

Always exceeding expectations.

3946 GLADE VALLEY DRIVE HOUSTON, TX 77339 281.359.4385

3731 NW 8TH AVE B O C A R AT O N , F L 3 3 4 3 1 561.750.0151 sandowmedia.com

Watch Journal™ is published bimonthly effective September 1997. Watch Journal™ is a registered trademark of InSync Media Group, a subsidiary of Sandow Media Corporation. Copyright 2009, InSync Media Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal™ are not necessarily those of the publisher.

Watch Journal™, InSync Media Group, Sandow Media Corporation, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal™. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal™ have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal™.

PRINTED IN THE USA Library of Congress ISSN 1096-3839 Canada BN NBR 10231 0943 RT

WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

POSTMASTER Send address changes to 3731 NW 8th Avenue, Boca Raton, FL 33431

THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION. LUMINOR 1950 MARINA 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC Automatic mechanical movement P.9000 calibre, two spring barrels, 3-day power reserve. Water-resistance 300 metres. Steel case 44 mm Ø.

Steel buckle.

www.panerai.com

Available exclusively at Panerai Boutiques and select authorized watch specialists NeW YORk BOUTIqUe • 545 Madison Avenue • 212-223-1562 BeVeRLY HILLS BOUTIqUe • 9490A Brighton Way • 310-228-1515

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

Carrera y Carrera Pulso

SPANISH GOLD

This summer’s Couture 2009 trade show at the Wynn Las Vegas served as Carrera y Carrera’s platform for debuting its Pulso watch. The Spanish jewelry brand, well known for expertise in working gold, applies its skill to the precious

case and ornamental dial cover of the Pulso, demonstrating that a Carrera y Carrera watch can be just as stunning as any of the necklaces or rings in its collection. The Pulso is available at Neiman Marcus and other select retailers in the US. 800.CYC.8229, carreraycarrera.com COMMANDING PRESENCE

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Corum ambassador and triple Olympic gold medalist, sailor Ben Ainslie received the honor of being named a Commander of the British Empire on June 11th.

His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales bestowed the title for services to sport at a ceremony at Buckingham Palace. Ainslie is the mostdecorated sailor in Olympic history but also Britain’s most successful solo Olympian, having won four successive medals in an individual discipline.

Receiving the CBE tops a year of honors for the 32-year-old.

The awards include being

BEN AINSLIE: Corum ambassador and triple Olympic gold medalist named World Sailor of the Year

named World Sailor of the Year for an unprecedented third time.

Ainslie is also a watch connoisseur and collector. He was won over by the Admiral’s Cup Tides from Corum because this model combines both a world-exclusive complication and an indispensable sailing instrument.

949.788.6200, corum.ch

Franc Vila Evos 8 Cobra Chronograph Grand Date Automatic

ONLY ONE OPPORTUNITY

Under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco, 34 of the most prestigious high watchmaking brands donated unique timepieces to the Association Monégasque Contre le Myopathie, to be sold at auction

by Patrizzi & Co. on September 24th in Monaco. Sale proceeds support research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The participating brands are: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Bovet Fleurier, Breguet, Cabestan, Cartier, Chaumet, deLaCour, Franc Vila, Franck Muller, Frédérique Constant,

HUBLOT CONCEPT: A black pearl in Prague.

Gérald Charles, GirardPerregaux, Hermès, Hublot, Jaquet Droz, Les Ateliers deMonaco, Louis Vuitton, MB&F, Montblanc, Omega, Patek Philippe, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Tourneau Timepieces, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Zenith.

Sale results were not available at press time. For complete details, visit patrizziauction.com/ only_watch ENVIRONMENTS: ONLINE AND OFF

TAG Heuer is well known for its partnerships with ambassadors from the world of sports. But an ambassadorship announced earlier this year heralds a different kind of collaboration: Actor and environmentalist Leonardo DiCaprio will partner with the brand to fund major environmental initiatives and children’s charities over a three-year period. “TAG and I will be making donations to some of the most influential and effective environmental organizations around,” says DiCaprio. “Each and every day, these organizations are doing important work to sustain our planet’s resources for future generations.

Hopefully, our donations will help expand their reach and raise their profile.”

TAG Heuer has also recently announced a first in its 150-year history: the launch of a dedicated customer service Web site at tagheuer.com/customerservice.

The site serves as both a source of information and a direct link to TAG Heuer’s service center for both retail partners and watch owners. Perhaps the greatest advantage of the customer service site is its 24/7 paperless, transparent and

efficient system for tracking the status of watches in the TAG Heuer repair center. It’s a brand new day for TAG Heuer.

866.260.0460, tagheuer.com CZECH IT OUT

Admirers of Hublot can now visit a unique concept store in Prague where design reflects the philosophy of the brand: fusion of materials. The boutique is full of fine details and premium materials, such as granite and

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Small Seconds Date

carbon, which put forward a black-on-black color scheme and provide an ideal backdrop for the Hublot watches on display. With a unique cafe for clients in the back of the store, the whole space creates the impression of an exclusive gallery. Jan Zvada, Hublot store co-owner, says, “We are proud to represent a leading Swiss watch brand like Hublot in the Czech Republic.

We believe that Hublot will find fans among watch connoisseurs and enthusiasts and that the store will become the pearl of Pařížská Avenue.”

800.536.0636, hublot.ch GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Luxury Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux announces

033 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

the opening of its first US boutique—and its seventh in the world—in New York City this fall. The 1,200-square-foot space on the ground floor at 701 Madison Avenue at the corner of 63rd Street will showcase the maker’s full line of watches including the WW.TC, 1966 and Cat’s Eye collections and the Vintage 1945 recently featured in an episode of the ABC drama The Unusuals. The boutique opening is part of the worldwide development of GirardPerregaux’s concept stores and demonstrates the brand’s ongoing commitment to its North American clients. Brand president Luigi Macaluso says, “New York is a city I know well and that I consider my home

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

he says. The Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe is Rose’s current favorite. No word yet on which creative project the new partnership might yield first. But many will doubtless be watching with interest. 800.794.7736, mauricelacroix.com REDESIGN/RESTRUCTURE

Swiss maker Romain Jerome issued two big announcements this summer. First came news that the company was presenting a new Web site—understated and featuring an “infinitely smooth navigating style”—in June.

WATCHING GOLF

British golf star Justin Rose has signed on as a brand ambassador with watch brand Maurice Lacroix, beginning an immediate collaboration on creative projects with an international reach. The 29-year-old has been attracting significant attention since placing fourth in the 1998 British Open at the age of 17.

Rose and the brand share a focus

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away from home. Opening a boutique on Madison Avenue is both a tribute to New York and an event I look forward to personally and emotionally.”

877.846.3447, girard-perregaux.com

Watches by Romain Jerome

JUSTIN ROSE: The young golfer chooses Maurice Lacroix for its high quality. on authenticity. Maurice Lacroix CEO Martin Bachmann says, “Authenticity is not a marketing slogan for us, it is a state of mind. Our fundamental desire is to create products that are genuine and true, whose actual value is not only in what can be seen.” For his part, Rose prefers to surround himself with meaningful objects. “I am interested in the best quality, because I want to have some things around me for a long time, and I must be able to rely on them,”

On the heels of that announcement came the news in early July that the shareholders of limited liability company RJ Watches SA had initiated a change in management at Romain Jerome by parting with the brand’s CEO, its head of administration, director of sales and other key staffers. Assurances have been issued affirming that the brand intends to continue its exploration of human heritage and legends that has so delighted collectors over the past few years. More about this is sure to be found on the brand’s all-new Web site. 41.22.319.20.55, romainjerome.ch

034 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

CHANNELING THE SWISS

In an effort to better support its customers and manage more of its business dynamics from one location, Gevril—now in its ninth year under the direction of Samuel Friedmann—has moved its worldwide headquarters to a new 8,000-square-foot facility in the hills of New York State.

Gevril’s new offices include a state-of-the-art watch repair department, a completely modernized shipping department and a customer service department comprised of professionals with the ability to communicate in several languages to support Gevril’s multinational accounts.

More than meets the eye.

Pontos DĂŠcentrique GMT.

Unique design concept, formed by its off-centre indications and spherical effects.

Patented date indication developed by Maurice Lacroix. Innovative second time zone with day and night indication.

To locate an authorized dealer near you, please dial 1-800-794-7736 or visit us at www.mauricelacroix.com

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

of the design agency myplayground.com; Samy Liechti, the CEO of blacksocks.com; and Martin Perren, owner of the Hotel Post. Their successes revolve around staying true to their values. And that is a quality that aligns with the philosophy of this traditional Swiss brand. 718.921.1000, roamer.ch MOVING ON UP

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And, never straying too far from its Swiss heritage, Gevril planned for the space to be full of natural materials and natural light, channeling the essence of its factory in Switzerland.

845.425.9882, gevril.com ROAMING SWITZERLAND

As part of its new Owner of a Roamer marketing campaign, the Roamer watch company is bringing three of its most ardent supporters into the public spotlight.

Bucking the trend of ambassadorship arrangements in general, they are not celebrities; they are all style-conscious and respected figures in the Swiss business world, who are perceived as down-to-earth and approachable. The three are Virginie Biffl

Roamer R-Line Ladies

VIRGINIE BIFFL: Stylish, successful, approachable, and a Roamer owner.

This July, the Movado Group announced the appointment of Alex Grinberg to the post of worldwide president of its Concord watch brand. A son of the late Movado Group founder Gerry Grinberg, Alex has extensive MGI corporate management and watch industry experience. Since 2000, he has been the president of Concord Americas. “Over the past two years, Alex and the Concord team have relaunched the brand by making it cutting-edge, defined by its bold philosophy, aggressive positioning and daring product. I am extremely confident that Alex, along with the outstanding Concord team we have in place, will continue to bring watch making to new heights and impact the industry in ways it has never seen before,” said Movado Group chairman, president and CEO Efraim Grinberg. 800.547.4073, concord-watch.com BLACKOUT ALERT

Two statement-making, longevity-ensuring, scratch-proof finishes used by the military—PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) and DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon)—got an immense PR boost recently from rapper, producer, designer and tastemaker Kanye West

036 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

after his glowing endorsement in the MEN.STYLE.com 10 Essentials column. West commissioned the Swiss firm BlackOut Concept, also known as BOC, to customize his Rolex Submariner, and praised the result as a “new take on a classic watch.” Founded in 2007 by Geneva native Fabrice Letellier, BOC has its roots in the surface treatment of rare supercars, but quickly expanded into wristwatches. The firm has customized various Rolex models as well as watches by Panerai, Bell & Ross and Audemars Piguet. The popular blackout treatment starts at around $7,000, but be advised, it is a warranty-voiding modification in most cases.

HOW TO CLIMB LA SCALA

Ryan St. George has been named managing director of Wyler Genève. A native of Los Angeles, St. George earned an MBA from the University of California in 2000, then settled in Rome to work in marketing with Johnson & Johnson Italy.

A promotion in 2004 took him to London, where he took over marketing responsibilities in that region. In 2007, he returned to Italy to join sportswear manufacturer Adidas as head of sports marketing, handling all the brand’s athletes and team partnerships. In 2008, Ryan joined the Milan-based Binda Group, the parent company of Wyler Genève, as international marketing director with responsibility for the Breil Milano, D&G Time and Jewels, Moschino Cheap and Chic, and Ducati brands. He became managing director of Wyler Genève on May 1st.

800.587.5165, wylergeneve.com

Š2009 Citizen Watch Company of America, Inc.

As functional art... this is a masterpiece.

Minute Repeater.

Case, dial, band and movement are crafted and hand assembled by master watchmakers.

From cutting and hand polishing its case, to minutely finishing its precision parts, the exceptional beauty of a Campanola is born.

www.campanola-timepieces.com

AVAILABLE AT

FREDRICK JEWELERS

WILSON WATCH CO.

BLOOMFIELD HILLS, MI 248-646-0973

LAWRENCEVILLE, GA 770-995-2505

Perpetual calendar with 2 alarms and the delicate bell tones of a minute repeater.

Dual curved sapphire crystal. Crocodile band. Case: 45mm.

+ IN FOCUS

ON TARGET | CA R L F. BU C H E R E R I S I N V EST I N G I N T H E FU T U R E TEXT BY: MARIE A . PICON

Only brands

that make at least one movement

entirely on their own are referred to by the prestigious title of Manufacture. Carl F. Bucherer, the third-generation family-owned Swiss watch concern joined those ranks in 2008, when it presented the A1000, its first proprietary movement.

A peripheral and bidirectional winding rotor encircles the outer edge of the movement for efficient power generation without obscuring the view of the other components.

Long known for style and sophistication, the brand decided several years ago to take a two-pronged approach to the future. It resolved to continue to use tried and tested outsourced calibers while at the same time adding its own calibers and complications to its product portfolio.

The A1000 is an unusual self-winding movement, the result of three years of research and development aimed at a range of different targets.

These included the application of proven technologies, such as a classic regulatory system, a

club-tooth lever escapement and a traditional going train with jeweled bearings. The targets also included modern horological strategies such as a progressive design offering an unimpeded view of the bridges and other components, a platform that allows easy addition of new features and efficient, semi-industrial production of the raw movement.

The finished movement notably features a peripheral and bidirectional winding rotor, encircling the outer edge of the movement for efficient power generation without obscuring

the view of the other components. It uses Carl F. Bucherer’s Dynamic Shock Absorption system, which protects the rotor against impacts: the rotor’s ball bearing/roller assemblies are mounted on rocking bars held in place by springs, and the transmission wheel, which transfers the rotor’s kinetic energy to the winding mechanism is equipped with two Incabloc shock-absorption systems.

Axial play of the rotor is held in check by special screws, which prevent the rotor from bumping the bottom of the case.

038 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

The balance and escapement are also protected by Incabloc shock-absorption systems as part of an “intelligent precision adjustment” strategy that Carl F. Bucherer calls the Central Dual Adjusting System.

Balance and escapement are adjusted only once, then secured in position.

It might be said that Carl F. Bucherer hit a bullseye with the release of the A1000. At the same time, this manufacture movement is a first step toward an even more ambitious target: Carl F. Bucherer’s horological future.

The Patravi EvoTec DayDate is the first watch model to use Carl F. Bucherer’s proprietary A1001 movement. A new module added to the A1000 base movement in this watch yields day/date calendar functions. A sapphire crystal caseback allows a view of the movement and its peripheral rotor. The module increases the total height of the movement to 6.1mm and the number of jewels to 31. The Patravi’s iconic style is reinterpreted in a cushion shape (44mm x 44.5mm) and a deliberately pared down aesthetic for this model, which premiered this year. The watch is offered in stainless steel and rose gold versions.

A1000 SPECIFICATIONS 30mm diameter 4.3mm high 29 jewels 21,600 bph (3Hz) frequency 55 hours power reserve

+ IN FOCUS

HAMILTON HAILS ELVIS | TWO NEW VENTURA EDITIONS TEXT BY: BILL ALBERS

Hamilton is celebrating Elvis Presley with two special models of its Ventura

watch to mark what would have been the King’s 75th birthday in 2010. The distinctive, shield-shaped timepiece that Elvis wore in the 1961 movie Blue Hawaii comes in two new interpretations—the Ventura Quartz, a replica of the original 1950s model and an XXL version. Set to launch in September, the Ventura Elvis Anniversary collection promises to contribute a new chapter to two legends.

The Ventura Quartz model is a faithful tribute to the 1957 original, which made watchmaking history as the world’s first electrical, battery-powered watch. Design details of the new model’s case, in either stainless steel or a yellow gold PVD finish, mirror its predecessors. Under a sapphire crystal, a black dial also recalls the 1950s Ventura timepieces, and displays rounded-point hour markers similar to those found on the iconic wall

clocks of the era. A Swiss quartz movement ensures precision timekeeping for the 21st century. The choice of attachments for the Ventura Quartz, which includes a metallic flex bracelet or a two-tone leather strap in gold paired with silver or black, has its own story.

The watch originally purchased by Elvis had a leather strap, but at his special request, the jeweler exchanged it for a metal bracelet more to this celebrity’s liking.

Having started its life as a pioneer, the Hamilton Ventura continues to make a statement over half a century later in the form of a limited XXL edition.

Powered by an automatic 2824-2 movement, this timepiece integrates its classic inspiration and modern touches for a bold, rock ’n’ roll vibe. The familiar shield shape of the gunmetal-colored case is contemporized through smoothed surfaces and XXL dimensions.

The angular crown is integrated

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into the case with its pointed tip at 3. The white or black dial resembles the grille of a hightech stereo speaker. A touch of fiery red stretches from 12 to 3 and reappears on the tip of the seconds hand. The case elegantly flows into a stylish, smooth black rubber strap.

Both of these commemorative Hamilton Ventura collections will undoubtedly help keep the King’s and Hamilton’s own legends alive. hamiltonwatch.com

VENTURA ELVIS ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION

VENTURA XXL ELVIS ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION

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Burdeen’s Jewerly 800-656-0414.

RJ Watches.PO BOX 340267, Tampa Fl, 33694 0267 • Tel: 813 926 3367

LUXE FINDER WATCH JOURNAL’S CURATED SELECTION OF THE HOTTEST WATCHES AND MOST LUXURIOUS PRODUCTS

THE CHANEL J12 INTENSE BLACK AUDI DESIGN’S GRAND PIANO

LAMBORGHINI’S MURCIÉLAGO LP 670 4 SV AUDEMARS PIGUET’S ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CAYAGO MAGNUM WATER SCOOTER DIOR’S CHRISTAL TOURBILLON

MISSION ONE MOTORCYCLE CORUM’S ADMIRAL’S CUP CHALLENGE 44 BLACK AND GOLD BREITLING’S AIRWOLF RAVEN SPECIAL EDITION

ALFRED DUNHILL SURFBOARD DIESEL’S MOWIE HELMET

DÖTTLING BEL AIR SAFE CARL F. BUCHERER’S PATRAVI T 24 JAQUET DROZ‘S LA MACHINE À ECRIRE LE TEMPS

CITIZEN’S ECO DRIVE CHRONO TIME AT THE HAUTLENCE HLQ 02 ARIEL ATOM 3 11 FOOSBALL TABLE

ZENITH’S DEFY CLASSIC CHRONOGRAPH BALL’S FIREMAN STORM CHASER HUSQVARNA PANTHERA LEO

THE KNIGHT XV GUCCI’S G CHRONO

48 49

50 51 52 53 54 55 56

57 58

60 61 62

63 64 65 66 67 68 70

72 74

LUXE FINDER

WHITE GOLD, BLACK DECOR Chanel’s classic color combination is put forward through the use of 18-karat white gold in the case set with black ceramic and a black dial displaying central hour, minutes and arrow seconds hands. A black high-tech ceramic cabochon tops the crown.

HIGH

EXCLUSIVITY Production is limited to five pieces.

Approximately $395,000

Baguette-cut gems of high-tech ceramic are the thoroughly modern embellishments on the coin-edged bezel, double chapter rings, lugs and bracelet of the Chanel J12 Intense Black, a 42mm timepiece powered by the automatic Chanel AP 3125 movement. 800.550.0005, chanel.com

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LUXE FINDER

GRAND PIANO

Built by the revered Bösendorfer company of Vienna, the Audi Design grand piano is a sight—and sound—masterpiece from the Munich automobile manufacturer. Approximately $140,000, audi@bosendorfer.com

STRIKE A CHORD Instead of the classic black piano shade, the designers have chosen typical Audi colors for the interior; the cast frame is in gray instead of the usual bronze color, and the felt damper strips come in natural white instead of wine red.

FORM & FUNCTION One of the most striking features of the piano is the lid, which extends down the base without a break, to yield a seamless, one-piece surface.

The acoustic quality of the instrument has not been affected by these design modifications.

LUXE FINDER

ROAD

It’s loud, it’s speedy and it performs. With an outstanding 661-horsepower engine, the 2010 Lamborghini Murciélago LP670-4 SV is an intimidating force to be reckoned with on the road. $450,000, lamborghini.com

WARRIOR LIGHT SPEED

FAST FORWARD

By using carbon in the bodywork, a lighter exhaust system and lightweight racecar bucket seats, the coupe manages to weigh in 220 pounds lighter than its predecessors—but the powerhouse still tips the scales at 3,894 pounds.

As the name implies, the Murciélago is fast: the six-speed semi-automatic, four-wheel-drive coupe can go from 0 to 62 mph in 3.2 seconds, and can reach a top speed of 212 mph.

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LUXE FINDER

CONTRASTS The 42mm case is a combination of forged carbon, ceramic bezel and strap-attachment links, rubber-clad crown and pushers, and a blackened steel screw-down caseback. The forged carbon, formed by compression at high temperatures, offers lightness, hardness and resistance to damage. Yellow and black add a stunning contrast to the dial and the stitching of the lined strap.

FUNCTIONALITY Caliber 3126/3840 is a self-winding chronograph movement with date and small seconds. The black Mega Tapisserie pattern dial displays the time with small seconds at 9, chronograph functions via central chrono seconds and totalizers at 6 and 12, and date at 3. The timepiece is water resistant to 100 meters.

CARBON-BASED

LIFE-FORM

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore in forged carbon, ceramic and steel (Ref. 2176) enriches the famed Royal Oak line with its sophisticated blend of contrasting high-tech materials and its extreme sporting style.

888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

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LUXE FINDER

UNDERWATER

ROCKET

From the makers of Seabob, the underwater boogie board-meets-jet ski, comes the Cayago Magnum—a limited-edition electric water scooter that’s in a league of its own. Approximately $112,000, seabob.com

SEA PROPULSION Sleek with a military-like persona, the emission-free scooter runs on a 10-horsepower engine that provides four hours of operating time—both on and below the water's surface— when fully charged.

STEALTH MODE Operating in near silence, the Cayago Magnum boasts on-board sonar and an electronic compass that enables the craft to be navigated even in conditions of poor visibility, as well as an LCD dashboard display that spits out diagnostics data as you dive.

LUXE FINDER

VISUAL CLARITY

The Christal Tourbillon by Dior signifies a new era of horological achievement for its maker. Its Swiss-made tourbillon movement demonstrates a commitment to ambitious mechanisms, while the aesthetics remain signature Dior. 866.260.0460, dior.com

JEWELS The white gold bridge of the movement is set with baguette diamonds. The tourbillon carriage is topped by a black sapphire crystal pyramid. A total of 82 diamonds have a combined weight of 3.98 carats; clarity is VVS窶的F, and color is DEF. The black alligator strap has a buckle set with baguette diamonds.

MECHANICS The manual-winding tourbillon movement comprises 165 components, including 19 rubies and features a tourbillon regulating mechanism that makes a complete rotation every 60 seconds. It has frequency of 21,600 bph (3Hz) and 80-hour power reserve.

EXCLUSIVITY

Production is limited to 15 examples.

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LUXE FINDER

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED Riders can fully recharge the cycle in approximately two hours via a standard wall socket.

FUEL ECONOMY

ELECTRIC AVENUE

While new motorcycles have a tendency to produce a significantly higher amount of emissions than even a standard SUV, Mission One produces fewer emissions per mile than a Toyota Prius. Unlike other electric motor-driven vehicles, speed is not compromised with the elimination of a combustion engine; the motorcycle can reach 150 mph when fully charged.

With a promise to provide the fastest production electric motorcycle on the market, San Francisco–based Mission Motors rolls out the Premier Limited Edition of the Mission One, a sleek, transmission-less aluminum cycle powered by lithium-ion batteries. $68,995, ridemission.com

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LUXE FINDER

POWERFUL ELEGANCE

With the Admiral’s Cup Challenge 44 Black and Gold, Corum introduces a powerful yet elegant timepiece coated with black or gray PVD and richly decorated with rose gold accents. 949.788.6200, corum.ch

ICONIC Signature 44mm Admiral’s Cup 12-sided case with a rose gold bezel crowning the dial, enhanced by the reflection of applied rose gold subchapter rings and faceted chevron markers. The dial features understated monochrome nautical pennants outlined in rose gold.

EXCLUSIVITY Production is limited to 188 pieces in black and 128 pieces in gray.

MECHANISM Calibre CO753 is a COSC-certified automatic mechanical chronograph movement. Functions include hours, minutes and seconds, chronograph with minutes and hours totalizers, and date with corrector.

LUXE FINDER

POWER PLAY One-hundredth of a second chronograph, alarm, countdown function, second time zone, and UTC are a powerful combination.

The timepiece also features a battery endof-life indicator, digital perpetual calendar, bidirectional pinion bezel with compass scale, and a circular slide rule.

ARCHITECTURE Inside a 43.5mm steel case, an NVG-compatible display backlighting system enables nighttime legibility, while a turbine-shaped caseback serves as a resonance chamber for the alarm and other audible indications. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects a volcano black, stratus silver or tungsten gray dial. Choice of Ocean Racer or Diver Pro strap.

AIR BORN

The Breitling Airwolf Raven Special Edition makes the most of the exclusive SuperQuartz thermo-compensated quartz electronic Breitling Caliber 78. This COSC-certified chronometer movement drives the full range of functions required by professional pilots. 800.641.7343, breitling.com

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LUXE FINDER

WAVE

Designed with the help of European surfboard company Pukas and Californian board shaper Jed Noll, the Alfred Dunhill Surfboard is a not-so-standard sporting good for the sea. Approximately $2,800, dunhill.com

RUNNER

TO THE SWELL Constructed from lightweight high-polyurethane foam with a resin-soaked fiberglass outer surface, the board’s material and coating help to minimize drag on the waves.

LIMITED PRINTS Only 10 of the quirky, nine-foot-long boards, available in either the iconic Dunhill Tweenie Devil or the Bulldog, will be made for purchase.

LUXE FINDER

HAUTE HELMET Fashion-forward designer company Diesel enters into the world of renegade racing with its new Mowie helmet—a stylish safety item that’s a must-have for any motorcycle maven. $250, diesel.com

UTILITY HEADWEAR Mowie’s dropdown antiscratch visor—which is fully interchangeable—provides 100-percent UV protection.

THE PERFECT FIT Available in matte shades of white, black, green and bronze, the helmet’s padded neck support can be removed for washing, while the micro-lock retention system allows for quick and easy fastening/unfastening of the buckle to adjust for comfort and ensure a secure fit.

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FELDMAR WATCH COMPANY - 310.274.8016 - feldmarwatch.com OLD NORTHEAST JEWELERS - 800.922.4377 - oldnortheastjewelers.com ALBERTS JEWELERS - 888.432.4367 - albertsjewelers.com

LUXE FINDER

HIGH SECURITY STYLE Fully customizable and individually crafted by hand, the high-security, 1,300-pound safe employs an electronic locking system with a number of security functions.

CALL OF THE WILD Fitted with the finest zebra skin and 18-karat gold-plated fittings, the safe uses patented armor plating containing vulcanized hard sinter ceramic stones with a hardness grade of nine (out of 10), ensuring that your precious belongings stay in, and predators out.

SAFE

Designed to offer uncompromised security, the zebra-skin Bel-Air safe from Dรถttling marries luxury with pristine, unusual beauty. Approximately $212,500, doettling.com

COMBINATION

LUXE FINDER

TRAVEL

TECH

Carl F. Bucherer’s Patravi T-24 prioritizes a 24-hour dial at 12 that can be set independently of the central time display and used to indicate time in a second zone, making it an ideal accessory for traveling in style.

800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

STYLE The stainless steel or rose gold tonneau-shaped case holds either a white dial with luminescent hour markers or a white mother-of-pearl dial with nine diamond hour markers. The 24-hour display forms an elegant, oval accent. Choice of stingray, python or alligator leather straps or a polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet.

SPARKLE The highlights of the Patravi T-24 ladies’ model are the 12 decorative bars of the bezel, each holding four Top Wesselton VVS diamonds.

These diamond-set bars also serve as minutes markers.

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LUXE FINDER

TRANSCRIBING

TIME

Jaquet Droz pays retro-futuristic tribute to the mysteries of time with La Machine à Ecrire le Temps, a table clock that records the march of time with poetic purity and mechanical prowess, actually transcribing the hours and minutes by means of a writing instrument. 888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.com

FUNCTION The unusual aluminum-frame cage is fitted with a liquidcrystal glass. A simple touch activates the clever mechanism, converting analog time—as indicated by the hands of a watch—into mechanical digital time, equipped with a stylus to indicate the time in hours and minutes. Patents are pending for both the concept and the mechanism. Only 28 examples will be produced.

FORM This piece, which required eight years to design and build, was the brainchild of Manuel Emch, president and head of artistic creation at Montres Jaquet Droz, and was developed by engineers and artisans in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. La Machine’s manual-winding mechanical movement with eight-day power reserve is on full display. It is constructed of more than 1,200 stainless steel and aluminum components (including 84 ball bearings, 50 cams, nine belts and three stainless steel springs) and measures approximately 14.5 x 10.25 x 7.5 inches.

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A

LUXE FINDER

ENERGY SOURCE

POWERFUL GOOD LOOKS

Eco-Drive technology allows this watch to be powered by light. Functions include world time in 26 cities, 1/5th of a second chronograph measuring elapsed time up to 24 hours, perpetual calendar, alarm, and power reserve indicator.

The Chrono-Time AT has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is available in stainless steel with bracelet, stainless steel with leather strap, stainless steel with two-tone rose gold color, and a limited edition in two-tone rose gold.

BONUS Each limited-edition timepiece comes in a handsome wooden presentation box.

ATOMIC

The Citizen Eco-Drive Chrono-Time AT is full of features, including atomic timekeeping with radio-controlled accuracy.

800.321.3173, citizenwatch.com

CLOCK

LUXE FINDER

MECHANICS The HL movement has been rebuilt with the jumping date in the form of a calendar disc peripheral to the jumping hour and retrograding minutes assembly. The functions are powered by the 24-jewel HLQ manually wound mechanical movement with 40-hour power reserve.

CASE The 18-karat white gold case is fitted with a sapphire crystal with angled edges and a multi-layer anti-reflective treatment. A screw-down engraved sapphire caseback reveals the reverse of the movement. The lugs are white gold and titanium, screwed to the caseband. The polished crown bears the Hautlence logo.

REFINED STYLE

The HLQ 02 by Hautlence demonstrates in form and mechanical function the extent of its maker’s commitment to creativity. Roundness dominates the exterior and interior of the HLQ collection from Hautlence. By playing on the repetition of circles and arches, Hautlence creates a geometric display of time built on a honeycomb-pattern pierced dial. 310.205.5555, hautlence.com

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LUXE FINDER

ATOM

British sports car-maker Ariel Motor Company tests the limits with the release of the Ariel Atom 3, the third incarnation of the popular “open motor” power trains. $65,000, arielatom.com

BOMB

ACCELERATION ABOUND The 300-horsepower Honda K20 engine goes from zero to 60 in three seconds, and can reach 100 mph in less than 11 seconds.

ANATOMY OF A ROCKET Consisting of a handcrafted exoskeleton frame (there’s no roof, no windows and no doors), the Atom’s bare-bones design and extraordinary power-to-weight ratio allows for unmatched control around corners.

LUXE FINDER

TABLE

Named after the number of players on each side of a soccer field, 11 foosball table is a collaboration between Netherlands-based GRO Design and TIM model makers. $55,000, eleventhegame.com

TROPHY

TEAM PLAY

FAN FAVORITE

Manufactured out of solid brass, each rod and player has been crafted in contemporary bright-silver chrome, polished to a mirror finish.

To draw in both the player and spectator, the table is illuminated from within. On the outside surface, the sleek, black-laminate finish helps to create a minimalist design, so as not to distract from the game.

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LUXE FINDER

DIAL Decorated with grain d’orge guillochÊ at the center and at the perimeter, the dial displays arrowhead hour markers, Arabic numeral at 12, skeletonized hour and minutes hands with luminescent tips, date between 4 and 5, seconds subdial at 9, and chronograph counters at 3 and 6.

COLOR WAYS For a white on white look, choose a stainless steel case (with or without diamonds) and vulcanized white rubber strap. The watch is also available in 18-karat rose gold and with an alligator leather strap.

DIAMOND CUT

All the power and prestige of the iconic El Primero movement in a chronograph timepiece designed to appeal to feminine sensibilities. The Defy Classic Chronograph from Zenith runs on an automatic El Primero 4000 SC caliber housed inside a 38mm case with sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters. 866.260.0460; zenith-watches.com

LUXE FINDER

THRILL

Ball’s Fireman Storm Chaser combines two instruments that provide essential information to amateur and professional storm chasers. The caseback of the Fireman Storm Chaser bears the logo of Wurman’s Center for Severe Weather Research, a top organization in the field of hurricane and tornado science. 727.896.4BRT, ballwatchusa.com

OF THE CHASE

EXTERIOR The tachymeter measures speed over a given distance, and the telemeter measures the distance between an observer and visible and audible phenomena (such as lightning and thunder) based on the speed of sound through air. The dial is illuminated by 18 micro gas tubes in multiple colors for visibility in low-light situations.

INTERIOR Powered by an automatic ETA 7750 chronograph movement housed in a 43mm stainless steel case, water resistant to 100 meters and fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the Fireman Storm Chaser’s functions include 12-hour chronograph, subsidiary seconds, day and date, and it is designed to withstand 5,000G shocks.

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LS8 Collection. Small Seconds .Stainless Steel case 316L with 18KT rose gold bezel & crown.

Mechanical skeleton movement AN 0711S. 150 piece Limited Edition series, featuring a beautifully upgraded original movement from 1957.

NEW U.S.A. DISTRIBUTOR: NICOLET MD S.R.L. e-mail: info@armandnicolet.com www.armandnicolet.com

LUXE FINDER

LUXURYLAWN Made from recycled materials, the Husqvarna Panthera Leo combines eco-friendly features with high-tech functions in a silent, ride-on mower. Price available upon request, husqvarna.com

LONG LASTING POWER The rechargeable lithium-phosphate battery, which replaces the traditional gas engine, lasts two hours on a single charge.

CUTTING EDGE Displaying remaining battery time, as well as driving speed, and cutting height and width, the dashboard LCD screen notifies users when it’s time for service and repairs, and warns them when objects are in close range of the blades.

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LUXE FINDER

HEAVY

Inspired by the Gurkha military vehicle, Knight XV is a handcrafted, bio-fuel-powered full-armored SUV that takes 1,500 hours to build. $359,000, conquestvehicles.com

METAL

GREEN GIANT BEHIND THE BALLISTICS

The Ford, V10, 6.8-liter gas engine is equipped with an E-85 Ethanol Conversion system (making it certified in all 50 US states).

Flexible fuel vehicles (FFVs) are designed to run on gasoline or a blend of up to 85-percent ethanol.

With only 100 available models on the market, the Knight XV is manufactured using military-grade armoring materials.

It offers unrivaled security features such as ballistic glass and front- and rear-mounted night-vision cameras, as well as luxurious touches that include privacy shades and leather boardroom-style interior seats.

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T H E EVO LUT I ON OF FINANCIAL INTELLIGENCE WO RT H .COM

LUXE FINDER

ABOUT FACE

The distinctive Gucci G forms the bezel of the Swiss-made Gucci G Chrono in three variations. Each watch is driven by an ETA 251.471 quartz chronograph movement.

201.867.8800, gucci.com

VARIATIONS The watch is offered in natural steel or steel with brown PVD coating, and the dial displays time and chronograph functions on a white mother-of-pearl, matte brown or embossed brown galvanic dial bearing 11 indices; two of the three variations have diamond indices. The watch is finished with a stainless steel bracelet with deployant buckle or a white or brown Guccissima leather strap with a stainless steel buckle.

CASE The brushed and polished 44mm stainless steel case of the Gucci G Chrono has a G logo bezel and anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 30 meters; two-year international warranty.

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An Homage to Horology

ROBUSTA Swiss Chronograph W W W. H O R O L O S . C O M

ANDBERG

BY KE IT H W. S T R

Agent

PROVOCATEUR

TURE P O P C U L O F TH E

EN D TH E R EA R O P S U P TO iC H A N G E P IT FR O M A M TR A N S FO R S P O R TS CA R R O N E- S EA TE FO R TA B LE IN TO A CO M EE .

R TH CA R FO R

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CHANGE:

A SYMBOL FOR THE FUNDAMENTAL CHANGES IN THE AUTO INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE, THE iCHANGE IS THE FIRST CAR WHOSE BODY ADAPTS TO ITS NUMBER OF PASSENGERS.

HFAMOUS ALL OVER THE WORLD FOR HIG CONCEPT CARS, is focused END MOTOR TUNING AND DEVELOPING

self-styled agent provocateur, not on today but on the future. A king people think about alterRinderknecht is committed to ma he doesn’t just talk about it; native modes of transportation. And nes— uth is and makes incredible machi he puts his money where his mo Guinin and cross the English Channel cars that can turn into hydrofoils an and t can be driven right into the oce ness-Book record time, cars tha t bodies and electric engines. Now keep going, cars with transparen Carl F. tnership with Swiss watch brand Rinderknecht is involved in a par the watch industry.

Bucherer, which is good news for

DREAMER:

IN COLLABORATION WITH BAYER MATERIALSCIENCE AG, FRANK M. RINDERKNECHT MARKED HIS COMPANY’S 3 OTH ANNIVERSARY WITH THE CREATION OF eXASIS, A DRIVABLE “GLASS” CAR.

PATRAVI TRAVELTEC FOURX This piece delivers three time zone displays and combines four materials—palladium, titanium, ceramics and rubber.

e XASIS:

MADE OF THE TRANSPARENT PLASTIC MAKROLON ® , THE eXASIS EXUDES A SENSE OF LIGHTNESS WHILE BEARING ITS INTERIORS AND ≤-CYLINDER ENGINE FOR ALL TO SEE.

Rinderknecht produces concept cars for the auto industry, but he also builds them independently to demonstrate what is possible. “We concentrate on showcasing new visions of mobility (electric, hybrid, dual stage, etc.),” he explains. “The purpose of these concept cars is communication—about innovations, materials, technology, as well as emotion,” Rinderknecht continues.

“In most cases, my corporate partners are actively involved in the car, supplying materials, technology, engines, seats, etc. For example, Siemens supplied electric motors, Bayer provided plastic and Harman/Kardon supplied stereos, entertainment and navigation. Working together helps everyone’s credibility.”

Carl F. Bucherer recently became one of these partners.

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IMMERSION

SA LT -W AT ER -R ES IS IN TE RI OR S FR OM TA NT ST RÄ HL E + HE SS AN D VD O IN ST RU ME NT CL US TE R AN D CO NT RO LS , W HI CH FU NC TIO N EV EN W HI LE SU BM ER GE D, CR EA TE A FU TU RI ST IC AM BI EN CE .

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The Carl F. Bucherer Patravi T-Graph Blue Wave chronograph

s QUBA:

PART SPORTS CAR, PART FISH, THE sQUBA HAS THREE ELECTRIC MOTORS AT THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE—ONE PROVIDES PROPULSION ON LAND, THE OTHER TWO DRIVE THE SCREWS FOR UNDERWATER TRAVEL.

Given that Carl F. Bucherer president Thomas Morf is a self-proclaimed gearhead, his company’s partnership with Rinspeed is a natural. “The cooperation with Rinspeed is a simple thing—Rinderknecht is thinking outside of the box, which underlines the philosophy of the brand Carl F. Bucherer,” Morf explains. “Doing things differently from a technical aspect is what we are all about—just look at our new in-house movement, the A1000. I think that he is doing really good things, things we can use synergistically in our research and development. Sometimes we get tied up in our own industry, and we need to get some external input to think about how to do things in different ways. It’s not a commercial thing—it’s more about having Rinderknecht’s input.”

In addition to the exchange of ideas, Carl F. Bucherer is actively involved as a sponsor of the sQuba, a car that can drive straight from the road into the ocean without missing a beat.

“Our name is on the sQuba and some of the other cars, and there is a watch in development to match the sQuba,” Morf admits. Of course Rinderknecht wears a Carl F. Bucherer watch as he tours the world with his caravan of curious creations, some of which are permanently on display in museums.

WATER WORLD:

DRIVE THE sQUBA INTO THE WATER AND IT FLOATS, UNTIL YOU CRACK THE DOOR, LET THE WATER IN, AND DESCEND BENEATH THE SURFACE. AN INTEGRATED COMPRESSION TANK SUPPLIES THE OCCUPANTS WITH BREATHING AIR.

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WHY DOES RINDERKNECHT DO IT? Much like the mountain climber, he does it because he can. “I want to live my dreams,” he says simply. “When I was young, I wanted to build a car that could turn into a hydrofoil and cross the English Channel. I was able to do it, although 25 years later, and I set the Guinness World Record. I drove the car, the Rinspeed Splash, of course, and it was a blast to go across the Channel. These are the kinds of things I love to do. I’m proud to have fulfilled that dream. It took me a lot of time, but I THE PATRAVI TRAVELTEC CHRONOGRAPH IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH TIME ZONES

never gave up.”

Rinderknecht has that car and many others in his garage, waiting to be exhibited all over the world. He never sells any of his concept cars, because they are not built for everyday use. “A prototype always has flaws,” he explains. “To build a car that drives from land into the sea without flaws takes a lot of money and a lot of time. We do not build production cars, and we don’t sell the concept cars we build.

What we do, however, is not just promotional, but also practical. Many of our ideas that we used in the concept cars have been implemented in production vehicles.” One example is radio controls on the steering wheel, something Rinspeed showcased years ago, before it was implemented in production cars.

BY KEITH W. S T R A N D B E R G

New concept cars are constantly in development at Rinspeed—every February the company introduces another. “Our specialty is not as a design house; we are the advance team,” Rinderknecht says. “We are three steps ahead, and we want to provoke and polarize. It makes people think. I love provoking. For example, I think the time is right to reinvent the thin leather tie, so I just bought a vintage one, and I am going to wear it, see if I can start something.

“In principle, I come up with the idea; then it’s teamwork here at Rinspeed,” he continues. “I need the criticism and the discussion. I prefer to work at this stage with three people. With two people, you have easy agreement. With three people, you always have a troublemaker who makes things interesting. Our first ideas have to be bold. We have to let loose and think laterally, look at things from a different perspective. For us, this works.”

For Rinspeed, this process has indeed been effective. The concept cars Rinspeed creates, from the sQuba to others known as the iChange, the Splash and the zaZen, are the stuff of adolescent fantasy, and Rinderknecht is the magic man behind the curtain. Keep an eye out in the next couple of years for the introduction of a Carl F. Bucherer watch linked to Rinspeed and the sQuba concept, and watch for those leather ties to come back into style. If they do, credit Frank Rinderknecht.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT RINSPEED.COM AND CARL-F-BUCHERER.COM.

+ FIVE MINUTES WITH...

MARC MICHEL-AMADRY | L EA D I N G E B E L TO S U CC ES S W I T H E N T H US I ASM A N D PAS S I O N TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Marc Michel-Amadry has been named co-president and

creative director of Ebel. He will continue overseeing Ebel’s marketing, product development and public relations efforts. Michel-Amadry joined Ebel in 2003 as the international marketing director, and three years later he was promoted to vice president of marketing. Before joining Ebel, he was with LVMH, where he held various positions. Michel-Amadry, 38, has been around watches all his life. His father went to watchmaking school in Besançon, France, and his grandfather was a watchmaker.

“My affection for watches developed a long time ago,” he acknowledges. “My parents had a small manufacture in France, near the border of Switzerland, specializing in mechanical watches. When the quartz revolution came, he had to close his company; we moved to Switzerland, and he went to work for Longines. I grew up with the idea that watches were important. I have a few of my father’s watches in my collection; they say ‘Michel-Amadry’ on them,

to trust me is Movado Group’s Ephraim Grinberg, who makes me want to do my absolute best.

He’s a great leader.”

cate, yet they are machines and beautiful objects at the same time. I like Ebel so much because of the tactile element. I feel I have something that is not common. I love that the time is given to me by a mechanism. I love the hard work and craftsmanship and that the work of so many people goes into it. The human element is so strong behind these watches. I love to look at my watch throughout the day. I look at my watch every fifteen minutes because it’s so

“MY BIGGEST REGRET IS THAT I WISH MY FATHER COULD HAVE SEEN MY SUCCESS.” and they still run. He also made ‘Yrda’ watches, which name comes from the last four letters of our name backwards.

“I have never dared to wear these watches because they are so precious,” he continues.

“My biggest regret is that I wish my father could have seen my success.”

PAS S I O N Some children rebel when they are raised in a family business, but not Michel-Amadry. “What I love about watches is the design, the way that when I hold a watch in my hand, I know I am holding something precious,” he says.

“Watches are so small and intri-

beautiful. A watch represents something important in my life.”

Michel-Amadry is enjoying himself immensely. “I have enthusiasm and passion; I am a hard worker, and I don’t count the hours, because when I’m working, I’m not really working; I am having fun and working with my team to do something great,” he details. “I love to focus the energy of a team for a specific mission. I have always tried to be honest, have integrity and do everything with a full heart. I have been lucky to work with bosses who I have respected, learned from and who gave me the opportunity to take on more responsibility. The latest person

KNOWLEDGE One of the reasons that MichelAmadry has been successful is his product knowledge: he has always been involved in the production of the watches. “It’s important to be grounded in the reality of how to design and how to produce a watch,” he says. “I know, with experience, what will make a watch successful and what will result in a niche product.

When the realities of making the watch aren’t known, there is no clue how long it will take, and the right decisions may not be made.”

Michel-Amadry is an athlete, but he also loves to watch European football, and he is particularly enjoying working with the various football clubs with which Ebel has a partnership. “I always try to keep the focus on the new watches from Ebel, but my favorite is the 1911 Tekton Real Madrid, the watch without a bezel and equipped with a special crystal,” he says. “It’s innovative yet timeless. People are going back to the classics, and this watch is a good mix of a classical design with new ideas.”

RELAXED Michel-Amadry works really hard, but he also wants to have

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time to relax, without any pressure. “I have to be on time when it’s regarding work, because I want to respect the people I am working with,” he explains. “I love to take my time in my private life. I want to leave space for spontaneity. If I had more time, I would travel more for myself. I would like to learn more languages. I am studying Italian now. I would do more of my hobbies, which include photography, squash, basketball and golf.

DRIVEN Michel-Amadry is driven to make certain Ebel is taken seriously as a complete watch company, with great movements and fantastic design. “My ambition is to make sure people know about Ebel’s watchmaking heritage and competency,” he says. “Ebel is not about showing status; it’s a statement about having good taste. I want to communicate all the qualities of Ebel—timelessness, elegance, attention to detail. An Ebel watch is something that can be handed down to the next generation.”

Making watches as only a watch lover can, Michel-Amadry will make sure he leaves to Ebel a legacy of success.

For more information, please visit ebel.com or telephone 800.920.3153.

Above: Ebel Tekton 1911 Olympique Lyonnaise limited edition chronograph

I LOOK AT MY WATCH EVERY FIFTEEN MINUTES BECAUSE IT’S SO BEAUTIFUL. A WATCH REPRESENTS SOMETHING IMPORTANT IN MY LIFE. – MARC MICHEL-AMADRY EBEL CO-PRESIDENT AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR

+ FIVE MINUTES WITH...

ZHANG ZIYI | ACT R ES S, FAS H I O N P L AT E A N D N OW AM BAS SA D O R FO R OM EG A WATC H ES TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Zhang Ziyi first appeared on international film radar with her stunning

appearance in the hit film Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. She followed up that performance with co-starring turns in Rush Hour 2, Hero, House of Flying Daggers and the lead in Memoirs of a Geisha. The actress was recently added as an ambassador by Omega watch brand, and I chatted with her between filming projects in mainland China; my first question was about the secret of her success.

FA S H I O N P L A T E Known as a fashion plate on the red carpet, Zhang appreciates watches as functional, fashion-

able accessories. “Like all luxury accessories, watches express the personality of the wearer,” she says. “They can be changed

For more details about Omega, visit omega.ch or telephone 800.766.6342.

easily according to mood.

Watches made by Omega communicate the brand’s message of tradition and innovation.”

“I’m interested in fashion, so I’m conscious of everything I wear, including jewelry and accessories,” she continues.

“When I was first approached

by Omega, I was happy because the brand is extremely well known and respected in China. Omega has been in China since 1895. My relationship with Omega has certainly increased my interest in and awareness of watches.”

AFICIONADA Zhang is aware of the differences between quartz and mechanical movements. “The Constellation 160 Years watch that I wear has a quartz movement, and it

“I’M INTERESTED IN FASHION, SO I’M CONSCIOUS OF EVERYTHING I WEAR, INCLUDING JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES.”

From left: Zhang looking glamorous on the red carpet, and on the big screen; the Omega Constellation with diamonds.

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Francois Durand/Getty Images

D E D I CAT E D “It’s very simple. I work hard,” she says. “There is also timing.

I feel lucky to be able to take an opportunity and make something of it. Being successful means doing what you love.

Having recognition on top of it is, of course, fantastic. I’ve also been fortunate to work with a few of the world’s brilliant directors and to have been surrounded by supportive people from the beginning of my career. They have helped me find my direction.”

keeps great time, but I’m also intrigued by mechanical watches,” she details. “There’s something special and solid and traditional about them. I wouldn’t say that I prefer one over the other; they’re different, and I have both quartz and mechanical watches. It’s hard for me to identify one favorite watch, but I love my Constellation. It’s quite elegant with diamonds on the dial, and I can wear it with almost anything.”

Look for Zhang in the upcoming films Sophie’s Revenge, Waiting and Lost for Words.

A product of skillful hands.

And ingenious minds.

Eterna Vaughan Big Date with the Eterna Calibre 3030 movement, the thinnest self-winding mechanical movement with a cambered big date display. The result of modern engineering and traditional craftsmanship. www.eterna.ch Tel.866-425-9882

CASE: The titanium case is 48.5mm in diameter and 22mm thick. Its lugless design is conducive to comfort and fit. Five sapphire crystals reveal the Concord C104 movement from all angles.

WINDING KEY: A pushbutton releases a large, concealed winding and time-setting key.

CO M P L I C AT I O N S

101 S T A R T LIFE IS COMPLICATED ENOUGH. BUT, IN THE WATCH WORLD, COMPLICATIONS ARE A GOOD THING. We are speaking, of

course, of the ingenious mechanisms that add functionality to timepieces. Watch brands are constantly coming out with their own versions of useful ones that make life easier as well as inventing complications that have never been seen before. A complication is anything that is above and beyond simply telling time. A basic watch is a three-hand timepiece—hour, minutes and seconds. Complications are modules placed on top of, or elements integrated into, a watch’s base movement.

Producing a watch with any complication takes a great deal of expertise. In general, when more is added to a movement, more can potentially go wrong, so it’s a good idea to make sure the watch comes from a quality company. Then, when we hear someone say, “It’s complicated,” we can just smile and think about our watches.

ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE SOME POPULAR COMPLICATIONS AND THEIR SIMPLE EXPLANATIONS.

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TOURBILLON: The tourbillon regulating mechanism is suspended inside a cage that rotates on dual axes. Its positioning is made possible by a system of light and rigid cables, as with a suspension bridge.

POWER RESERVE: A glass column filled with phosphorescent liquid breaks with traditional display codes but effectively indicates the watch’s state of wind by moving vertically up and down the three-day scale of the case’s inner surface.

SECONDS: Seconds are displayed laterally on a rolling ring, external to the case.

E X A M P L E

089

SUSPENDED ANIMATION

The Concord C1 Quantum Gravity creates its own rules to produce a representation of unrestrained time. The latest piece to emerge from Concord’s C Lab, it uses a movement developed by BNB Concept and designed by Studio Bellon. concord-watch.com, 800.547.4073

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CASE: A square profile with sensual rounded lines characterizes the 47mm Fuso Quadrato case, available in 18-karat rose or white gold and featuring ergonomic mobile lugs and a curved sapphire crystal.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

01

DUAL TIME/GMT: This timepiece displays two times

simultaneously, either through a central GMT hand that points to the hour in a second time zone or a separate subdial for the second time zone. There are a few triple time zone watches, and some brands offer world time watches, which provide a way to simultaneously read the time in 24 time zones around the world (by virtue of key cities’ names on the bezel). Some companies highlight the locations of key stock markets, golf courses, racetracks, famous shopping districts, charitable organizations and more around the world.

E X A M P L E

THE BIG REVEAL

The Fuso Quadrato by de Grisogono reflects the creative verve of brand founder and president Fawaz Gruosi, and presents an original strategy for displaying time in two zones. degrisogono.com, 866.DE.GRISO

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STRAP: Genuine alligator strap fitted with a triple-folding deployant clasp to match the case.

DUAL TIME ZONES: Home time is indicated by central hour and minutes hands on the main dial; a pierced black hand frames the hour of a second 12-hour dial to indicate Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) or any time zone of choice.

DIAPHRAGM MECHANISM: Twelve titanium blades open and close in the manner of a camera shutter to alternately reveal and hide the second time zone display. The diaphragm is operated by means of a slider on the left caseside.

CASE: A hot-forged carbon bezel tops the 46mm polished 18-karat rose gold case, also available in black PVD carbide with rose gold bezel.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

02

TOURBILLON: Caliber G1780 features a visible tourbillon regulator with double-bridge construction—the upper bridge in 18-karat rose gold secured with two polished screws, and the lower bridge in a satin finish.

Sapphire crystals on both the dial side and the caseback create a seethrough effect at the tourbillon position. A sweep seconds hand mounted on the tourbillon indicates running seconds.

CHRONOGRAPH: This function allows

for the independent timing of an event.

Usually, a chronograph has two pushers on the side of the case: one for start/stop and the other to return the chronograph hands to zero. A chronograph with which it’s possible to restart timing from zero with a single push of a button is called a flyback chronograph. There are chronographs that have only one pusher, which controls all the chronograph functions; these are called monopusher chronographs. Many chronographs include counters, also known as totalizers, that display the total elapsed minutes and hours.

E X A M P L E

SPINNING WHEEL

Graham Tourbillograph Woodcote offers the combined advantages of a tourbillon mechanism and chronograph functions. graham-london.com, 212.688.4500

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STRAP: Integrated large-scale crocodile strap in black

CHRONOGRAPH: Activated by pushbuttons at 2 and 4, the chronograph tracks elapsed time up to 12 hours by means of a central seconds hand and subsidiary dials for elapsed minutes and hours. In tandem with the tachymetric scale on the inner bezel, the chronograph can be used to calculate speed.

Prominent pushbuttons control chronogaph starts, stops and resets.

CASE: Diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating provides the super-hard, corrosion-resistant finish of the cushion-shaped steel case.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

03

SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH: This chronograph has two

chronograph hands instead of one, allowing the user to time concurrent events. Let’s say someone is timing a footrace. To start the race, he activates the chronograph and both hands start to circle the dial together, one on top of the other. When the first runner reaches the first mile marker, for example, he pushes the button again, stopping the first hand, but the second hand “splits” from it and continues timing. Once he records that first time, he presses the pusher again, and it catches up to the second hand, allowing him to then stop it again whenever he wants for another time measurement. This operation can be repeated any number of times. The French term for this complication is rattrapante, which means “recovering” or “catching again.”

E X A M P L E

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

Panerai Luminor Regatta Rattrapante 44mm commemorates the 2009 Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge. The special edition of the regatta-ready timepieces is limited to just 500 examples. panerai.com, 877.PANERAI

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MOVEMENT: The automatic OP XVII movement with a double column wheel chronograph mechanism is chronometer certified.

COUNTDOWN: Five-minute countdown timer is used in competitive sailing for managing a boat’s approach to the starting line and the official beginning of a race.

CROWN: The crown is protected by a locking “lever bridge,” a signature Panerai feature that helps ensure water resistance. This watch is rated for 100 meters.

RATTRAPANTE: The chronograph’s split-seconds timing function is made extraversatile by the addition of a tachymetric scale on the dial flange. The pushbutton at 8 resets the rattrapante hand.

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CASE: The 45mm titanium case has antireflective sapphire crystals front and back and is water resistant to 300 meters. The unidirectional rotating dive bezel has an orange inlay.

MOVEMENT: Caliber UN-33 is a self-winding movement and a certified chronometer. In addition to perpetual calendar functions— day, date, month and year—it is configured to include a small seconds function.

LIMITED EDITION: Production is limited to 500 examples.

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CALENDAR: The synchronized perpetual calendar functions are quickly adjusted either forward or backward via the crown; the calendar is also designed to function normally into and beyond the year 2100, when other calendar watches will require readjustment.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

04

ANNUAL CALENDAR: This calendar function will

display the correct date for a full year (starting on March 1) without having to be reset to adjust for the alternation between 30-day and 31-day months. It will have to be reset at the end of February, the only month that varies in length from year to year.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR: The ultimate calendar,

indicating the day, date, month and leap year cycle. Keep a perpetual calendar watch running, and it won’t have to be reset until the year 2100.

E X A M P L E

PERPETUAL MOTION

Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual marries the aesthetic and technical elements of its maker’s Marine and Perpetual Collections and presents a perpetual calendar that is adjustable both forward and backward. ulysse-nardin.com, 561.988.8600

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MOVEMENT: At the heart of the movement, Greubel Forsey’s spherical differential constantly redistributes the energy at work within the operating wristwatch.

DOUBLE TOURBILLON CAGES: Four rotating carriages are configured into a pair of double tourbillons, each with an inner one-minute tourbillon inclined at a 30-degree angle and an outer four-minute tourbillon.

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SMALL SECONDS: This time function is indicated by a double pointer on a sectorial subdial.

POWER RESERVE INDICATOR: Remaining power is displayed in hours on a sectorial indicator at 2.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

05 POWER RESERVE/RÉSERVE DE MARCHE: This complication indicates

the state of wind for a watch. Like a fuel gauge in a car, it shows how much power is left for operating a mechanical timepiece.

E X A M P L E

POWER TO SPARE

The Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel Sphérique uses a patented manual-winding movement comprising 531 parts, including 128 parts for each double tourbillon. greubelforsey.ch, 310.271.0000

CO M P L I C AT I O N

06 MOON PHASE: A complication

that indicates the phase of the moon (i.e., crescent, half, full), usually by means of a painted or printed image of the moon on a rotating disc.

E X A M P L E

ASTRAL PROJECTION

The Zenith ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase combines a column wheel chronograph and tourbillon with moon phase and day/night indication. zenith-watches.com, 866.260.0460

MOONPHASE/SUNPHASE: A pair of discs—a colorful one bearing an image of the sun and a crystal one with twin moon icons—rotates within a single aperture at 8. The sun makes a full rotation every 24 hours, while the phases of the moon are indicated by a 180-degree rotation each lunar cycle.

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TOURBILLON: Altering the position of the balance by completing a 360-degree rotation every minute, the tourbillon offsets some of the effects of gravity on this delicate mechanism. At the same time, a pointer attached to the tourbillon cage indicates the seconds.

MOVEMENT: The El Primero 4034 comprises 353 components, including 35 jewels, and offers frequency of 36,000 bph (5Hz).

CHRONOGRAPH: The column wheel chronograph indicates elapsed time via a central seconds hand, a 30-minute counter at 3, and a 12-hour counter at 6; the function is controlled by pushbuttons on either side of the crown.

SECONDS: Linear and digital seconds display featuring a rotating disc produced using photolithography and weighing just 0.09g

LINEAR RETROGRADE DISPLAYS: Jumping hours and minutes indicated on linear scales via rotating cylinders; the minutes cylinder makes a 300-degree rotation then reverts to its starting position with 1/10th second flyback, at the same time triggering the hours cylinder to move forward one position.

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07

RETROGRADE DISPLAY: An alternative

to the usual circular displays of watch dials and subdials, a retrograde display usually involves a pointer that moves across an arc to indicate seconds, minutes, date etc. then instantly snaps back to the starting point to begin again.

MOVEMENT: Caliber UR-CC1 has automatic winding regulated by a Rotor Fly Brake pneumatic shock absorber, which minimizes winding system wear.

E X A M P L E

PREDICTABLE RATE OF RETURN

The Urwerk UR-CC1 King Cobra interprets time as a linear progression rather than a cyclical phenomenon. Its aesthetic was inspired by vintage dashboard instruments. urwerk.com, 310.271.0000

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CASE: Case available in gray gold with titanium caseback (a limited edition of 25 pieces) or black gold with titanium caseback (a limited edition of 25 pieces).

CO M P L I C AT I O N

CHRONOGRAPH: The monopusher chronograph mechanism operates by means of a column wheel and three identical planetary gears, and is the subject of a new patent. The torque required of this mechanism is consistent regardless of position (start, stop or reset), which prevents major variations in the demand for power and naturally improves the precision of the timepiece.

BELT-DRIVEN DISPLAY: Notched rubber belts mounted on rotating cylinders replace the usual discs of the hour and minutes displays in the manual-winding CC20A movement.

TOURBILLON: The tourbillon, displayed at 6, makes a complete rotation every 60 seconds, moving the balance to counter the effects of gravity on its operation. The tourbillon carriage features the maker’s double-C logo.

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CO M P L I C AT I O N

08

STRIKING MECHANISM/SONNERIE:

STRIKING MECHANISM: A small mechanical hammer strikes a gong, which takes the form of a delicate hollow metal tube, to produce a chime each time the chronograph is started, stopped or reset.

E X A M P L E

An automatic or manually operated mechanism that produces audible indications by striking a gong inside the watch. Striking mechanisms may sound to mark the hours, quarters or minutes, and may also function as alarms or use bells of dierent pitches to create melodic chimes.

TIME TRACKER

The Christophe Claret DualTow marks the 20th anniversary of Christophe Claret SA, developer of highly complex and exclusive watch movements. The timepiece brings together a variety of skills associated with the company and is produced almost entirely in house. Production is limited to 68 examples. dualtow.ch, 724.263.2286

BRACELET: The bracelet is an unusual combination of grade-5 titanium and black PVD-treated links.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

09

MINUTE REPEATER: This is a complication

that sounds the time (hours, quarter hours and minutes) when activated, often by means of a lever. The minute repeater is considered one of the most difficult complications to manufacture.

E X A M P L E

REVERSE PSYCHOLOGY

The DeWitt Répétition Minutes Tourbillon GMT Antipode integrates three extreme complications—tourbillon, minute repeater and GMT—in a single movement, the DW8900, 46-jewel caliber with 72-hour power reserve. dewitt.ch, 305.572.9812

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PRIMARY DIAL: The transparent primary dial displays local time and tourbillon at 6.

MINUTE REPEATER: This timepiece audibly signals the local time by chiming when activated via the lever on the caseside.

CASE: Fitted around a dedicated axle, the 53mm titanium, white gold and PVD-treated case of the RĂŠpĂŠtition Minutes Tourbillon GMT Antipode encloses twin dials and pivots a full 360 degrees when buttons at 12 and 6 are pressed.

SECONDARY DIAL: On the reverse of the case, the secondary dial reveals the back of the movement and indicates time in a second zone.

LIMITED EDITION: Production of the Romulus Tourbillon is limited to 10 examples.

CO M P L I C AT I O N

10

TOURBILLION: A device that is designed to counteract the

effects of gravity on a movement’s balance, thereby increasing its accuracy. A tourbillon features a small cage that holds the balance and the escapement and turns independently of the watch, usually at a constant rate of one revolution per minute.

The tourbillon, which means “whirlwind” in French, is one of the watchmaking art’s most elegant complications.

E X A M P L E

OPEN CONCEPT

The Corum Romulus Tourbillon combines contemporary elegance with authentic horological prowess. Eliminating the dial puts the mechanical heart of the watch front and center. corum.ch, 949.788.6200

CASE: The 18-karat rose gold cambered case is 41mm in diameter, slightly smaller than earlier 42mm or 44mm Romulus models, and features a satin-finished bezel engraved with polished Roman numerals. The exhibition caseback is secured by six screws, and the case is attached to a black crocodile strap.

MOVEMENT: The manual-winding Caliber CO 107 has mainplate and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève engraving and black PVD coating. The absence of a dial reveals these parts as well as the tourbillon mechanism and parts of the gear train.

The movement is built for frequency of 21,600 bph (3Hz) and offers power reserve of 130 hours when fully wound.

TOURBILLON: The role of the tourbillon, originally created for pocket watches, is to eliminate the disruptive effects of gravity on the regulatory organ of the movement. This one features a tourbillon carriage sheltering a gold balance wheel and a rose gold–plated tourbillon bridge.

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the evolution of a philosophy of quality and independence

A QUALITY SEAL A LO O K AT T H E PAT E K P H I L I P P E S E A L

Patek Philippe made big news during Baselworld 2008 when president Philippe Stern announced that the company would be developing its own quality standard, which it would adopt in place of the Geneva Seal quality standard. Following the trade show, there was nothing further from the brand on this subject—until this year’s Baselworld. Patek Philippe officially unveiled the Patek Philippe Seal, which is an attempt by the company to record and standardize its own internal processes. It seems the company believed that the existing quality standards, and there are several, fell short of those Patek Philippe already maintained.

Patek Philippe touts spring 2009 as the beginning of a new era: “All of the manufacture’s mechanical movements will henceforth be embossed with the exclusive Patek Philippe Seal. This is the evolution of a philosophy of quality and independence that the workshops in Geneva have been systematically pursuing since the company was founded in 1839. The new label clearly expresses 110 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

At the end of the day,

it comes down to trust.

The Patek Philippe Seal embodies the values and standards of our family watch company.

It will be a constantly changing standard,as s new and better processe are developed.

President, Philippe Stern, and vice president, Thierry Stern

the very essence and distinctiveness of Patek Philippe: a level of perfection that far transcends what external statutes and official standards prescribe. After all, true passion can only come from within.”

If the company making this statement were Hyundai, it might be met with great skepticism, but because Patek Philippe is generally regarded as the gold standard when it comes to quality in watchmaking, the Patek Philippe Seal has been met with a high level of acceptance. “The scope of the Geneva Seal was limited, and there are more seals out there, and Patek needed to do something to show the distinctiveness of our timepieces,” says Larry Pettinelli, president, Patek Philippe NA. “At the end of the day, it comes down to trust,” he continues. “If you trusted Patek before to do the right thing, there is now even more reason to trust Patek. The product won’t be made any differently; we are just defining

alendar C l a u n n A e h T rose Chronograph in the gold, bearing Seal Patek Philippe it now, for ourselves and for our customers.”

Unlike the Geneva Seal, which is primarily a finishing standard, and the COSC certification, which focuses on precision, the Patek Philippe Seal is designed to cover the entire watch. The new seal “defines all competencies and features of relevance to the manufacture, precision and lifelong maintenance of a Patek Philippe timepiece,” according to Patek’s materials.

Although Patek Philippe developed the seal, the company has set up an organization that will hold the manufacture accountable for any deviation from the standard. In fact, there are a legislative body and an executive body that operate independently from one another, supervising the Patek Philippe Seal.

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The Comité du Poinçon Patek Philippe is the legislative entity, which defines the qualifications for the Patek Philippe Seal and continuously adjusts the regulations to accommodate relevant developments.

The Comité du Poinçon Patek Philippe consists of two subcommittees: the Comité Technique (for technical issues) and the Comité Esthétique (for aesthetic issues).

These two subcommittees monitor all work processes continuously, to ensure compliance. The president, Philippe Stern, and vice president, Thierry Stern, of the manufacture are the Garants du Poinçon Patek Philippe— guardians of the Patek Philippe Seal.

“I clearly understand why they didn’t want external people involved, being an independent—if we give someone access to all the information on how we make our product (ten thick volumes outlining every process in the production of every model), they would know everything. It would be too dangerous,” notes Pettinelli.

“I don’t know how interested our consumers will be in the Patek Philippe Seal,” he adds. “We are sending booklets and bullet points to our retailers and incorporating the information into the training for the sales staff, so they are ready to answer any questions. We are running national and international ads.

We are putting some money behind this campaign to explain what we are doing and who we are, which is also brand building.”

The Patek Philippe Seal will be a constantly changing standard, as new and better processes are developed. “[The elder] Mr. Stern wanted a standard that would certify the entire watch, and he wanted to make sure it could evolve (the last change to the Geneva Seal was in 1957). If there is a better way, he wants to be able to write it in,” Pettinelli says.

“He isn’t establishing the new seal to gain more credibility. It’s just a way to formalize what we have been doing all along. We wanted to put in writing how we do it—precision, finishing, everything, including service.”

It would be easy for an industry leader such as Patek Philippe to get complacent about what it does and even to stagnate, but to this company’s credit, it is continually looking to improve. The Patek Philippe Seal codifies this incessant desire.

By Keith W. Strandberg, international editor. For more information, visit patek.com or telephone 212.218.1240.

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THE P.900X FAMILY currently comprises three individual calibers and six watch model references.

NEW MOVEMENTS

IN NEUCHÂTEL

BY JOHN B. HOLBROOK, II

Since 1997, when the Richemont Group acquired Officine Panerai—an Italian watch company with a worldwide

and extremely devoted following of collectors known as Paneristi—the brand has enjoyed a lengthy and impressive streak of growth and success. Unlike any other moment in its history, thanks to the backing and support from Richemont, Panerai is now in a position to capitalize on the globally surging interest in large high-end mechanical timepieces, which includes oversized sport watches. While once upon a time Panerai relied exclusively on outsourced ETA movements for its watches, more recently the brand has begun producing its own in-house movements. Now Panerai’s identity is shifting from that of a luxury watch brand to one of an independent luxury watch manufacture.

Panerai and Richemont took two major steps to facilitate this transformation. The first was the acquisition and remodeling of an old police station in a desirable location in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, which would become Panerai’s manufacturing and assembly facility (the brand is headquartered in Milan, Italy). The second step was the creation of an advanced movement design and manufacturing facility (the foundation of which started with the acquisition of the Piaget movement manufacturing center) known as Val Fleurier. Intended to reduce Richemont’s reliance on outsourced movements, Val Fleurier presently creates watch movements for three Richemont brands—Piaget, Montblanc and Panerai.

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With the essential pieces in place, Panerai had the ability to design and manufacture its own movements, and began design work in 2002 on its first in-house movement: the P.2002. Five years later, the P.2002 made its debut in the Luminor 1950 8 Days GMT. Since then, Panerai has rocketed ahead with four other movements added to the P. 200x family: an automatic (P.2003), a chronograph (P.2004) and a tourbillon (P.2005). It’s staggering when one realizes that Panerai went from complete reliance on outsourced movements to manufacturing its own completely inhouse tourbillon (considered by many to be the pinnacle complication of mechanical watchmaking achievement) inside of roughly five years.

At the 2009 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, Panerai dropped its latest horological bombshell when it presented yet another addition to the P. 200x family of movements, the P.2006, as well as a new family of movements designed and made entirely in-house. This new group of movements is called the P.900x family, whose three new calibers join those existing in the P.200x family.

This brings the total of Panerai in-house manufactured movements to eight, up from zero just seven years ago. To get a better understanding of the new P.900x family of movements, as well as an appreciation for Panerai’s capabilities as a true watch manufacture, I traveled to the Neuchâtel factory for a tour and presentation.

When I arrived there, I met with factory head, Jean-Robert Martinet, and he gave me a presentation about the P.900x family.

Essentially, these movements duplicate some

Panerai's Swiss home is found in Neuchâtel.

of the functionality found in the P.200x family, but are produced for Panerai models at lower price points than those equipped with the higher-end P.200x movements. The three movements that comprise the P.900x family are the P.9000, the P.9001 and the P.9002.

All three calibers have different specific functions, but they have in common a bidirectional automatic winding system with a power reserve of three days (via two barrels), a beat speed of 28,800 beats per hour and an immediately recognizable aesthetic design.

The P.9000 is the base model for the family,

designed for standard three-hand display watches with calendar complication. The P.9001 adds a power reserve indicator, a seconds-reset device (historically designed for watch synchronization) and a second time zone, or GMT hand. The P.9002 essentially has the same functionality as the P.9001, but locates the power reserve indicator on the dial side of the watch instead of on the caseback.

After his presentation regarding the new P.900x movements, Martinet gave me a tour of the Panerai factory in Neuchâtel and then transported me to the Richemont-owned Val

PANERAI WENT FROM COMPLETE RELIANCE ON OUTSOURCED MOVEMENTS TO MANUFACTURING ITS OWN COMPLETELY IN-HOUSE TOURBILLON INSIDE OF ROUGHLY FIVE YEARS.

MOVEMENTS in various stages of

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Photos By John B. Holbrook, II

production at the manufacturing facility in Neuchâtel.

PAM 305 WITH CALIBER P.9000

PAM 320 WITH CALIBER P.9001

PAM 321 WITH CALIBER P.9002

THE LUMINOR 1950 SUBMERSIBLE 3 DAYS Automatic 47mm in titanium

with rubber strap

THE LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS GMT

Automatic 44mm in 316L brushed steel with brown alligator strap

THE LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS GMT POWER RESERVE Automatic

44mm in 316L brushed steel with black alligator strap

P.9000 Automatic bidirectional winding, twin-barrel 72-hour power reserve, balance wheel with adjustment screws, frequency of 28,800 bph (4Hz), date function and stop seconds for accurate synchronization; this caliber is found in the PAM 305, PAM 312 and PAM 328 models.

P.9001 All the features of the P.9000 plus a GMT function and power reserve indicator on the rotor side; this caliber powers the PAM 320 and PAM 329 models.

P.9002 This caliber differs from the P.9001 only in its power reserve indicator, which is found on the dial side; it is used in the latest model, the PAM 321.

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Clockwise from top left: One of Panerai’s technologically advanced movement component testing and adjustment stations; A group of several Panerai watches undergoing one of the many tests conducted to ensure water resistance; Two test chambers measure the effects of motion and impact on Panerai cases and movements; One of many quality tests that Panerai straps undergo.

tradition have a synergistic relationship, not an adversarial one.

I was particularly impressed with the level and extent to which testing takes place. Take water-resistance testing for example—every Panerai watch goes through no less than five different stations to ensure it meets or exceeds the stated water-resistance rating. In another room, I was shown two chambers that test the effects of G-force on movement accuracy, and a chamber that simulates dropping a Panerai one meter onto a hardwood floor. Even Panerai straps go through several tests, including one that simulates wear stress and the long-term impact it has on the strap’s color, and another that applies torsion. In each case, if the test samples do not meet Panerai’s exacting standards for quality, they are returned to the vendor (Panerai does not manufacture its own straps). The vigorous testing and high quality-control standards ensure that every customer of Officine Panerai receives a product exceedingly worthy of the brand name.

It’s truly staggering to consider just how far Panerai has come as a manufacture and a brand. Its watches have only been available to the public since 1993. Between 1860, when Giovanni Panerai founded the company, and 1993, Panerai sold its watches exclusively to the members of the Italian Navy. With the latest crop of P.900x inhouse movements, and several new models powered by these new mechanical marvels of engineering, there’s no sign of Panerai’s slowing down. Panerai has always been an icon of Italian fashion and culture; now the brand has seamlessly blended the best of both Italian design and Swiss mechanical watchmaking to create watches that are simply magnificent inside and out. Officine Panerai isn’t just a watchmaker—it is, in the truest sense, a watch manufacture.

For more information about Panerai, visit panerai.com or telephone 877.PANERAI.

VIGOROUS TESTING AND HIGH QUALITY-CONTROL STANDARDS ENSURE THAT EVERY CUSTOMER OF OFFICINE PANERAI RECEIVES A PRODUCT EXCEEDINGLY WORTHY OF THE BRAND NAME. 122 10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

Photos by John B. Holbrook, II

Fleurier movement manufacturing facility about 30 minutes away in the Swiss town of Buttes. I’ve been on several watch factory tours, and one of the biggest things that differentiates Panerai’s approach to movement manufacturing and component assembly, finishing and testing is the implementation of advanced technology. Many watch manufacturers and their production capabilities have slowly evolved over decades or in some cases over hundreds of years. The pull of tradition is strong in these environments. Panerai, however, had no such evolutionary process to encumber it, having gone from the horological equivalent of bows and arrows to atomic weapons in less than a decade. So both the Neuchâtel and Val Fleurier facilities were replete with advanced technology, particularly in the areas of testing. This is not to say that Panerai has forgone the traditional craft and art form of mechanical watchmaking that is so synonymous with the heart of Swiss watchmaking in the Jura region, where these factories reside. At Panerai, innovation and

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A PORTAL TO AMERICAN CULTURE

CARTIER FIRST OPENED ITS OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY 100 YEARS AGO THIS YEAR. They are celebrating this milestone anniversary with a traveling exhibition, special limited edition products, a new art book by photographer Bruce Weber, and a special centenary window display in the Cartier boutique on Fifth Avenue.

America is special to Cartier because the company has always had clients on American shores. “From day one, we started our subsidiary here to serve our existing clients,” explains Frédéric de Narp, president, Cartier North America.

“We had many customers who went to Paris to buy Cartier products. Since the start, Cartier has developed an intimate relationship with the US. Cartier is a bridge of culture between France and the US.” “Cartier has not been just a jeweler; we have been a portal to the culture,” he continues. “We have pieces in the traveling exhibition from famous collectors like Elton John, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Henry Ford and more, and we have

the clock that was offered to Franklin D. Roosevelt to celebrate his efforts for peace. We also have the first Cartier Tank that was offered to General Pershing. Not only do we showcase special orders for important people, but we are also celebrating the major events in culture in the last century, such as the moon landing.” The Cartier Anniversary exhibition features areas dedicated to the brand’s most important customers. “This exhibition showcases more than 100 pieces, and there is a room dedicated to the pioneers, a room for the tycoons and another room called Cartier and Hollywood (from Sunset Boulevard to Inside Man and the most recent films). These pieces illustrate the relationship between Cartier and the US,” says de Narp. It even houses one of the largest privately owned diamonds: the 231-carat Wynn Diamond, owned by Steve Wynn and set by Cartier.

Cartier hopes that the exhibition helps people understand the heritage and the tradition of the brand. After launching in New York, the exhibition went to LA for two weeks.

C A RT I E R TA N K

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The Cartier Tank has been worn by such American icons as Jackie Onassis, Clark Gable, Andy Warhol and Fred Astaire. The Tank Américaine in white gold is shown.

Fred Astaire: Gilles Petard/Redferns; Andy Warhol: Jill Kennington/Getty Images; Clark Gable: Getty Images/Getty Images; Jacqueline Kennedy: Paul Schutzer/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

CARTIER

G L O R I A S WA N S O N The silver screen icon wore rock crystal, diamond and platinum bracelets created by Cartier ca. 1930.

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Lavish parties were held on both coasts, featuring some of America’s most famous people. In addition, Cartier commissioned photographer Bruce Weber to create a book on Cartier. Titled Cartier I Love You, the book uses pictures from his personal archives and new photos—so not only does it detail the past and the present, it also projects the brand into the next century. The proceeds from the sale of the book go to ServiceNation. “Cartier has been supported by the US for 100 years, so we wanted to give back to the country,” says de Narp.

“ServiceNation is a group of 190 organizations that urges people to do more volunteering. They do a great job in the US.” When Cartier began to spread out across the globe, the brothers Cartier went to different places.

Louis Cartier stayed in Paris; Jacques went to London, and in 1909, Pierre Cartier came to live in New York. “New York was the city from which our development in the US began,” explains de Narp.

“As royalty was fading in Europe, amazing talents were emerging in the US in banking, mining, transportation and more, so it was natural that Cartier set up its operations in New York, at 712 Fifth Avenue, on the second floor. In 1917, Pierre Cartier bought the current Cartier mansion at 2 East 52nd Street for $100 and a pearl necklace (worth $1 million).” Commemorating Cartier’s history in New York City, the intersection of 52nd Street and Fifth Avenue was renamed Place de Cartier in 2001 by the City of New York.

In 1922, Cartier opened its own workshop called American Artworks in New York to develop products specifically for the US market. Many of these products have become bestsellers all over the world. At the end of the 1930s, Cartier opened a boutique in Palm Beach, FL, and Beverly Hills was next in 1980. “America has helped Cartier quite a lot, because America is seen as a style leader throughout the world,” says de Narp. “For the centennial, we have created a fantastic collection. An American Eagle motif adorns a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch, while colored stones enhance vibrant Love bracelets, diamond stars embellish the Trinity collection, and heart motifs decorate the engraved dial of the timeless Tank Américaine watch. A special limited-edition Trinity bracelet on a red, white or blue silk cord will also benefit ServiceNation.”

E L I Z A B E T H TAY L O R Cartier sold the first diamond for over $1 million to Richard Burton as a gift for Elizabeth Taylor. The Cartier-Burton-Taylor diamond, weighing 69.42 carats, is the 56th largest cut diamond in the world.

B A L L O N B L E U D E C A RT I E R WAT C H The centennial edition Ballon Bleu in white gold features an engraved eagle motif dial and automatic caliber Cartier 049. Production is limited to 20 pieces.

T R I N I T Y B R AC E L E T A special limited-edition Trinity bracelet on a silk cord will benefit ServiceNation.

G R AC E K E L LY Grace Kelly had a Cartier engagement ring, and at her wedding she wore a necklace and tiara made from platinum and brilliant-cut diamonds, adorned with three cabochon rubies. She also wore a Trinity ring every day throughout the 1960s and a Santos watch in the 1980s.

Cartier has long been a regular in films, either providing movie shooting locations or products. It all started with Rudolph Valentino wearing a Cartier watch in The Son of the Sheik in 1926. Perhaps one of the most famous appearances was in a scene in Lifeboat by Alfred Hitchcock (1944), in which Tallulah Bankhead throws her Cartier diamond bracelet into the ocean as bait for fish, saying “Sure we have bait—by Cartier.” Other pictures in which Cartier played a starring role include Sunset Boulevard, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, The Las Vegas Story, The Great Gatsby, Stage Fright and more recently in Bonfire of the Vanities, Wall Street, A Perfect Murder, Ocean’s Eleven, Inside Man and Lust, Caution.

Cartier has had a longstanding relationship with America and has been part of American culture since the brand’s beginning. With its new collection of stunning jewelry and luxury mechanical watches, including some bearing the Geneva Seal, Cartier is well positioned for another 100 years of success.

By Keith W. Strandberg, international editor. To find out more about Cartier, visit cartier.com or telephone 800.CARTIER.

BARBARA HUTTON The American heiress and her Cartier Tiger Clip Brooch with single and brilliant-cut diamonds ranging from fancy intense yellow to near colorless, created in 1957.

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SPRING

n LOADED HO W

IT

WO R KS

OFTEN TAKEN FOR GRANTED AND OVERLOOKED, THE MAINSPRING UNLEASHES A FURY OF POWER ON YOUR WATCH. B Y S T E P H E N P R I E S T H O F F Mechanical watches are fairly intricate mechanisms, containing at least a few refine-

ments of serious complexity, but they can always be reduced to a fundamental equation: a concise amount of available power, originating in a coiled mainspring, which is released in tiny, precise increments. Ironically, the mainspring is one of the least examined and most overlooked components in a watch. At the other end are delicate components, designed to release this energy.

Basically, the balance hairspring—a tiny spring so fine it can be hard to see without magnification— is pitted against the powerful mainspring. This means that there is a fastidious balance between the two, whose relationship has been very meticulously crafted.

It is not hard to imagine how useful a self-contained source of power would have been for early clockmakers when the idea first surfaced. Back then, weights were carefully matched to clocks to produce the desired power supply, and gravity did the rest. In fact, today it can still be argued that a more reliable source as simple as this does not exist, because a stone hanging beneath a clock will always exert the same amount of force. Not so with a watch spring. A number of challenges had to be overcome to achieve their potential.

fl

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POWER SUPPLY WHEN FULLY WOUND, A SPRING HOLDS TREMENDOUS POTENTIAL ENERGY. AS IT STARTS ACTING ON A TIMEPIECE, IT UNLEASHES A FURY OF POWER.

MAINSPRING TODAY’S MAINSPRINGS ARE PRODUCED FROM EXOTIC ALLOYS MIXING FERROUS AND NON-FERROUS METALS. HARDENED AND TEMPERED UNDER EXACTING CONDITIONS, THEY ARE MORE CONSISTENT IN SIZE AND STRENGTH WITH SUPERIOR ELASTICITY TO PROVIDE FOR MANY MORE CYCLES OF WINDING/UNWINDING. THEY ARE ALMOST UNBREAKABLE UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS AND ARE NONMAGNETIC.

One of four barrels contributing to the seven-day power reserve of the HM1 by MB&F.

A MAINSPRING AND BARREL ARE GIVEN TO VERY HARD WORK. THEY ARE NOT IMMUNE TO THE RIGORS OF THEIR ENVIRONMENT. The very first springs were literally hammered out by hand. Quality depended on the skills of a man who over the years had developed the eye and the arm to a high level. But his limitations are evident. With the onset of the industrial revolution, mainspring production was taken to new levels.

Early springs delivered varied amounts of power depending on their state of wind. When it is fully wound, a spring holds tremendous potential energy; as it starts acting on a timepiece, it unleashes a fury of power. At the opposite end of its travel, when it is close to running down, it is relatively weak, delivering just a fraction of its former power. This discrepancy is troublesome for establishing a stable rate in a timepiece.

In addition, a spring literally slides against itself as it starts to unwind. When it is tightly wound, this activity produces a certain amount of friction that varies as the spring unwinds. Oil or grease, usually organic in the early days, was used for conquering this problem, but these trial lubricants were a feisty group and could not always be counted on to

BARREL A CYLINDRICAL WHEEL TURNING FREELY ON AN ARBOR AND CONTAINING A MAINSPRING, WHICH IS ATTACHED TO THE BARREL AT ITS OUTER END AND TO THE ARBOR AT ITS OPPOSITE END. GEAR TEETH ARE CUT INTO THE OUTER CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE BARREL AND MESH WITH THE FIRST PINION OF THE GOING TRAIN. keep the power flow uniform. Lastly, mainsprings can break, causing sudden and serious trouble.

Over the years, clockmakers and then watchmakers addressed all of these issues. There has been an ongoing evolution of ideas and experiments related to timekeeping and power supply. But the basic principles have not changed. A watch is a machine that has been given a finite amount of available power—in this case, the wound mainspring—no more, no less.

One of the first efforts in containing the excesses of the mainspring was the use of a fusee. The idea was to weaken the powerfully wound spring and strengthen the almost depleted

spring. This was a simple concept brought to life by the use of a spiral cone connected to the mainspring barrel by a cord or a chain. The spiral was the first gear in the drive train of the watch. The fully wound spring pulled against a chain wrapped around the top, the smallest diameter of a spiral. As the mainspring unwound, the chain would find its way around a larger and larger diameter, thus offsetting the weakening mainspring.

This worked well, and mainsprings themselves were made to optimize this combination. On the downside, the fusee added considerable height to the movement, making a fairly obese watch by today’s standards!

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SERENADE Dual Time Zones Automatic, Patented GV- AOASE Movement 18K White Gold, Louisiana Crocodile, Limited Edition: 50 Pieces

www.gevril.com

FROM LEFT: Exploded view of the Corum Admiral's Cup chronograph movement, showing exploded mainspring and barrel on the far left; part of the gear train of a Vogard Chronozoner.

MAINSPRING TODAY'S MAINSPRINGS ARE THE CULMINATION OF CENTURIES OF DEVELOPMENT. SPRINGS TODAY ARE MADE FROM THE MOST SUPERIOR STEEL RECIPES AND ARE NON-MAGNETIC AND ALMOST UNBREAKABLE.

Another clever idea that found its way into a great many pieces is known as a stop-works. Here, the watch, through the clever addition of a few parts embedded in the lid of the barrel, would only be allowed to use the middle—the most stable energy-producing area—of the mainspring. The full tightening was discarded along with the last few weakest winds. This was a more compact design and gave makers an opportunity to create a much slimmer watch.

Today’s mainsprings are the evolutionary result of these

and many other innovations. They are the culmination of centuries of development. Since many of today’s watches feature automatic winding, we see further mutation. Springs today are made from the most superior steel recipes and are non-magnetic and almost unbreakable. Since an automatic has the capability of delivering its full force all the time, it overcomes many of the discrepancies found in earlier renditions. Lubrication for these modern springs are much more stable. The use of synthetic greases and Teflon-like products are common.

Still, a mainspring and barrel are given to very hard work.

They are not immune to the rigors of their environment.

Lubrication breakdown eventually takes its toll and, along with all the more delicate components of a watch, cleaning and servicing is in order.

Throughout history, mainsprings have evolved to be a reliable source of power. Because they work behind the scenes, hidden inside a barrel, they can be taken for granted and sometimes overlooked during after-sales service. Even then they hold up under an amazing amount of abuse. I know because I’ve seen more than a few that have been ignored for years.

A watchmaker for over 25 years, Stephen Priesthoff has served as technical director for several Swiss brands in the US and is currently the technical director for Maitre du Temps.

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Haute-Performance TM

The Kriëger Gigantium Skeleton Skeleton Collection. Visible skeleton movement shows special hand engraved carvings and skull with ruby eyes. Available in 18kt rose gold, 18kt white gold, PVD gun metal coating or all stainless steel, with or without diamonds. Impressively oversized at 43mm. Swiss made superlative mechanical wound movement with exhibition back.

Anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Limited edition. KRIEGERWATCH.COM - 800 441 8433 Available at: TOURNEAU For locations nationwide, or shop at home 800 348 3332 LA VIANO JEWELERS Englewood NJ 201 569 4556 LOUIS BLACK Toronto Ontario 416 920 8338 KENJO JEWELERS New York NY 212 333 7220

A. LAN G E & S Ö H N E U NV E I LS

TH E LANG E Z E ITWE R K I N B E R LI N

TEXT BY: J O H N B. H O LB R O O K, I I

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The landmark Berlin Dome.

Opposite: A temporary exhibition hall on Berlin’s Palace Square.

On May 7,

watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne hosted a dinner party to launch its latest masterpiece of haute horlogerie—the Lange Zeitwerk. Lange flew in dozens of retailers and members of the press for the ultra-secret event. The only hint of what was in store for the evening was a simple quote from Ralph Waldo Emerson printed on the invitation: “When it is dark enough, you can see the stars.” The darkness in this case shrouded the dinner itself, which was held in a room absent of any source of light, with a wait staff made up entirely of blind servers from Berlin’s Unsicht-Bar. The “blind dining” experience is designed to heighten the other senses in the absence of our primary sense of sight. It was certainly an interesting challenge to attempt conversation with newly appointed A. Lange US president Philippe Bonay while eating in complete darkness. Following the sensational dining experience, our intrepid group was “shown the light,” and A. Lange & Söhne CEO Fabian Krone along with Walter Lange, a direct descendant of the company’s founder, introduced us to the A. Lange Zeitwerk.

Above: The A. Lange Zeitwerk wristwatch with jumping hours and minutes displays, subsidiary seconds, and power reserve indicator.

From left: A. Lange & Söhne CEO Fabian Krone with brand patriarch Walter Lange; Anthony de Haas explains the Zeitwerk watch to guests; Peter Braun, Anthony de Haas, Elizabeth Doerr and Gerhard Claussen

The concept of the Zeitwerk (German for “time movement”) is a deceptively simple one: produce a mechanical timepiece with a digital display. In practical execution, an entirely mechanical digital readout is a fantastically complex undertaking, which required A. Lange & Söhne to rethink the very fundamentals of traditional watch design. A substantial amount of energy is required to simultaneously advance all three numeral discs (one for hour, two for minutes) once every hour—far more than is required of a traditional mainspring, which drives hour and minutes hands in constant motion. To deliver the required energy, Lange developed an entirely new barrel with an extra-strong mainspring. Its patented design literally turns the venerable wind/unwind principle upside down. The system also required that the winding crown be relocated from the traditional 3 position to just above 2 due to the location of the numeral discs for the minutes display.

The watch is powered by the new A. Lange & Söhne caliber L043, a manually wound mechanical movement with a total of 66 jewels and 388 parts. The Lange L043.1 has a balance wheel with a relatively leisurely beat speed of just 18,000 beats per hour (bph)—no doubt the reduced speed decreases the energy required of the mainspring and reserves more for the jump hour display. When fully wound, the Lange L043.1 has power reserve of 36 hours. The impressively finished and decorated movement is visible via a sapphire caseback and features a three-quarter plate, a hand-engraved balance cock and screwed gold chatons.

I was impressed with how much the dial of the Lange Zeitwerk is evocative of traditional A. Lange & Söhne watch design within the context of such a radical depar-

ture. The presence of both a small seconds hand at 6 and a power reserve indicator at 12 provide both balance and familiarity. Of course, the double-disc big date indicator is a mainstay of Lange watch design going back to the 1994 Lange 1. There’s no mistaking the A. Lange & Söhne character of this watch.

The A. Lange Zeitwerk has a case diameter of 41.9mm and is 12.6mm in height.

The case comes in a choice of white, rose or yellow gold as well as platinum, and several dial color choices are also available.

Attached to the case lugs is a hand-stitched crocodile strap and case-matching A. Lange prong buckle. Like the dial design, the lineage built into the case of the Zeitwerk is clearly and easily identifiable as A. Lange & Söhne. Pricing for the A. Lange Zeitwerk has been set at $54,500 for the gold variants, and the platinum version (limited to just 200 pieces) is priced at $75,600.

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is an absolutely stunning new addition to the brand’s already impressive catalog of offerings. According to its maker, the new Zeitwerk “lets its owner experience a totally new sense of time.” The Zeitwerk certainly defines “at a glance” legibility with its large, clear digital display. Congratulations to the entire A. Lange development team—let the light of the Zeitwerk shine brightly and dispel the darkness.

When he’s not flying around the world attending watch industry events, John B. Holbrook, II, is a freelance writer, photographer and regular contributor to Watch Journal. To learn more about A. Lange & Söhne, visit alange-soehne.com or telephone 212.891.2350.

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Detail of the Zeitwerk’s jumping time displays

B A S E LW O R L D THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 18 – 25, 2010

WWW.BASELWORLD.COM

+ WATCH JOURNAL REVIEW

AQUARACER 500M | T H E D I V E WATC H F R OM TAG H EU E R I S B ECOM I N G A B I G H I T TEXT BY: JOHN B. HOLBROOK II

The latest

Aquaracer dive watch from TAG Heuer represents numerous enhancements over its immediate predecessor, including an extreme water-resistance rating, and it does so at an even more attractive price than the previous model. First revealed to the world at Baselworld 2009, this watch has rightly been attracting significant attention and admiration, becoming a big hit for TAG Heuer over the past few months—and here’s why.

The stainless steel case is water-resistant to 500 meters.

feature of the dive watch segment. While the bracelet is of solid link construction, the adjustable links are held in place by friction pins as opposed to screws. Friction pins are more difficult to work with than screws when sizing a bracelet, but given the exceptionally competitive price point of the Aquaracer 500M, I’m not at all surprised by the use of friction pins in the bracelet. Overall I found the

bracelet to be exceptionally well made, secure and comfortable. At no time while wearing the Aquaracer 500M did the bracelet pull against the hairs of my wrist.

As the name suggests, the Aquaracer 500M has a case that is water resistant to an impressive 500 meters, or about 1,640 feet. Sitting atop the case is a unidirectional rotating bezel that ensures precise dive-time measurement. To prevent damage to

Photos by John B. Holbrook II

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M has some pretty impressive specifications. The 43mm diameter case is just big enough to be fashionable, without being impractical—the Aquaracer 500M can be worn with a dress suit just as easily as a dive suit.

The stainless steel case of the Aquaracer 500M has a brushed finish, which is both attractive and functionally robust—light scratches tend to be far less noticeable with a brushed finish as compared to a polished finish.

The case-matching stainless steel bracelet also has a brushed finish as well as a dual pushbutton, solid steel folding clasp designed to prevent accidental opening. The clasp features an integrated extension system, allowing wearers to adjust the strap so that it fits comfortably over a wetsuit—another mainstay

the watch and its movement, the Aquaracer 500M features an automatic helium valve that, if internal pressure tolerances are exceeded during decompression, releases any gases that infiltrated the watch during a deep dive.

The back of the case has a sapphire crystal for viewing the welldecorated TAG Heuer Calibre 5.

This is a surprising feature since most serious mechanical dive watches opt for a caseback of solid metal construction.

Congratulations to TAG Heuer for engineering the Aquaracer 500M to maintain its impressive water-resistance rating despite the sapphire crystal back. Any time I can view a well-decorated mechanical movement, I consider it a benefit, though many divewatch purists prefer a solid metal caseback.

Speaking of the movement inside the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M, it represents a bit of a unique response to the scarcity of ETA calibers. Many watch manufacturers have been between the proverbial rock and hard place in trying to secure calibers from movement-manufacturing giant ETA. Global demand for mechanical movements has created shortages in supply and impacted the ability to bring watches to the marketplace. This is a

Dive-ready features include a unidirectional rotating bezel, helium release valve and folding clasp with integrated extension system.

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significant problem for manufacturers like TAG Heuer, which has relied heavily on ETA for the mechanical calibers used in most of its watches. But in the case of the Aquaracer 500M, TAG Heuer went to movement manufacturer Sellita for its Calibre SW200, a version of the ETA 2824 movement. The Sellita SW200 (which TAG Heuer rebadges as the TAG Heuer Calibre 5) is a 26-jewel, self-winding mechanical movement with a balance wheel that oscillates at 28,800 bph. The Calibre 5 is a COSC-certified chronometer. This is my first encounter with a Sellita manufactured caliber, but it certainly speaks well of Sellita and its products that the TAG Calibre 5 achieved COSC certification.

Looking through the scratchresistant sapphire crystal, we see that the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500M has an attractive and highly legible dial. Large sword-style hour and minutes hands circle the textured gray dial, with an orange-tipped seconds hand.

Large applied hour markers

encircle the dial, and these indices as well as the hands are coated with ample amounts of Superluminova to ensure that the Aquaracer 500M provides at-aglance readability, even underwater or in dim light. The dial also features a date complication with distinctive placement at 9.

It is no surprise that the specifications of TAG Heuer’s latest entry in the ultra-competitive dive-watch segment include remarkable numbers that indicate enhanced capabilities. Most competitors in this segment have released models that are capable of withstanding greater depths than ever before. What is surprising is the relatively affordable price of the Aquaracer 500M. For a major producer of mechanical sport watches to come up with a high-quality mechanical dive watch at the retail price point of $2,450 is no small feat. I don’t think I’ve ever before seen a COSC-certified chronometer below $2,500. I have no doubt that a watch with the TAG Heuer name on the dial

and such impressive features will be well received in the marketplace. It certainly doesn’t hurt that the Aquaracer 500M is also quite attractive and as comfortable as it is functional. Kudos to TAG Heuer for producing a watch that is accessibly priced for the entry-level watch buyer in this less than optimal global economic climate.

John B. Holbrook, II, is a long-time contributor to Watch Journal and an expert in the field of luxury mechanical wristwatches. For more about TAG Heuer, visit tagheuer.com or telephone 866.260.0460.

The Aquaracer 500M is offered in blue, silver and black dial versions with a choice of steel bracelet or rubber strap.

The automatic TAG Heuer Calibre 5 movement is visible through the sapphire caseback.

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EBEL IS JUMPING | CHECKING UP ON E B E L’S PA RT N E R S H I P W I T H O LYM P I Q U E LYO N N A I S E TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Thousands of people jumping into the

air, chanting “Qui ne saute pas n’est pas Lyonnaise!” (in English, “Whoever isn’t jumping isn’t from Lyon!”) in unison is quite something. I was at the European football match between Olympique Lyonnaise (OL) and Nantes to see how the partnership between Ebel and OL was realized and to get a feeling of the atmosphere. I was quite surprised at how passionate the fans were, jumping included, and I understood the logic behind Ebel’s partnership.

chronograph pushbuttons

The Ebel Tekton 1911 Olympique Lyonnaise limited edition chronograph with 45-minute counter

45-minute counter

OL, founded in 1899 and identified by the colors red and blue, is one of the best French teams in the prestigious Ligue 1. Consistently battling for the league championship, the team has won the French championship for the past six years.

The game between OL and Nantes was important for both squads: OL had to win to stay in the running for the Champions League next year, while Nantes needed to win to stay in Ligue 1.

Ebel is the official timekeeper for OL, identified on the scoreboards in the stadium as well as on signage around the field.

Ebel is also featured on a countdown clock that shows the time

remaining before each half, before halftime and before the end of the game. This great exposure for Ebel contributes to the appeal of OL. Although there are certainly fans from all walks of life, I saw plenty of well-dressed people in the stands, people for whom a great watch is part of their daily attire.

The watch Ebel introduced for OL, the Tekton 1911 Olympique Lyonnaise limited edition, is a subtly decorated watch.

Identified as associated with OL only by the understated red and blue layers in the case and the engraving on the rotor, the watch is powered by a proprietary automatic chronograph movement

configured to measure the 45minute halves of a soccer match, including injury time.

Projects such as Ebel’s definitely make sense for both the brand and the clubs with whom they partner. After OL won 3-0, using superior speed and precision passing to conquer a Nantes team that perhaps deserves to move down one league, I walked out of the stadium an Olympique Lyonnaise fan. And, yes, I was jumping.

For more information, visit ebel.com or telephone 800.920.3153.

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From left: OL players in a celebratory moment; Ebel co-president Marc Michel-Amadry and Jean-Michel Aulas of Olympique Lyonnaise; Michel-Amadry with the writer on game day

Celebrating Over 20 Years of Service

Contact us for the complimentary literature of Tutima’s Instrument Watches. Distributed in North America by Tutima USA, Inc. (888) 462-7888 www.tutima.com

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JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 | G L I T Z , G L AM , CO N N O I S S EU R S & E N T R E P R E N EU R S I N FA BU LO US L AS V EG AS TEXT BY: HAYLEY MERRILL

Slot machines,

Lady Luck, jewelry and watches—these are just some of the words that come to mind in relation to a trade event unlike any other: JCK Las Vegas. With optimism wafting through the crisp desert air, vendors, retailers and media circled through the impressive show that only comes around once a year and proved to be nothing short of spectacular in 2009.

JCK FACTS AND FIGURES: Over $360,000 in merchandise credit was generated from the VIP Buyer Program between manufacturers and retailers, not including the hundreds of millions of dollars made during the show outside of the VIP Buyer Program.

2,700 international and domestic manufacturers were in attendance during the 18th annual JCK Las Vegas show.

Manufacturers reported positive feedback regarding retailer and wholesale attendance, including large department stores and independent retailers.

Buyers from all over the world were welcomed by vendors large and small in the JCK showrooms, which included Premier and Luxury by JCK and Swiss Watch by JCK. The show spanned the Sands Convention Center, and the Palazzo and Venetian hotels on the famous Las Vegas Strip.

The section of the show known as the Hall of Time at the Sands Convention Center featured many watch brands from across the globe, and was abuzz with activity throughout the show. With many well-known brands such as Seiko, Reactor, Ernst Benz and Hamilton dotting the impressive showroom floor, there were many opportunities to see exciting new designs and to meet the creative geniuses behind them. Not only were there beautiful watches to be seen in the Hall of Time, but also beautiful celebrities, like Kathy Ireland and Miss Africa.

Needless to say, there was something for everyone to enjoy.

Special events and networking opportunities augmented business transacted on the vast show floor at JCK Las Vegas.

Swiss Watch by JCK featured an incredible selection of luxury watch brands such as Bell & Ross, Corum, Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. The beautiful accommodations provided by the Venetian made the overall experience that much more enjoyable. These posh suites provided a sweeping, panoramic view of the Mojave Desert and the Spring Mountains to the west, while the luxe interiors offered plush furnishings and spacious rooms where brands welcomed journalists and retail customers in high style. The collections were presented in a luxurious

environment that perfectly paired with the beauty of finely crafted timepieces.

From CEOs to salesmen, the overall atmosphere among exhibitors was one of genuine optimism for the watch industry. With the phrase “in this economy” becoming a staple in many conversations, the mood of the show was considerably more upbeat than might have been expected. The welcoming and friendly environment of JCK set the stage for nothing less than success by providing a VIP Buyer Program, which included VIP concierge, a $1,000 merchandise credit to be

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used with brands at the show, and a VIP lounge. In addition, a “Super Tuesday Stimulus Program” was set up to give a $200 American Express gift check to the first 77 retailers to produce an invoice.

JCK Las Vegas certainly lived up to its reputation. Glitz, glam, connoisseurs and entrepreneurs made the showroom floors the source of endless activity that carried on well into the evenings in fabulous Las Vegas.

To learn more about JCK, visit jcklasvegasshow.com or telephone 800.257.3626.

Citizen was content not to compete directly with the Swiss on the high-end playing field. That is, until recently.

CITIZEN’S NEW

SIGNATURE

COLLECTION

BY KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Consumers have long looked to Citizen for affordable, high-quality watches. As a Japanese company, however, Citizen was content not to compete directly with the Swiss on the high-end playing field. That is, until recently.

Several years ago, Citizen started introducing Eco-Drive timepieces that use traditional complications at affordable prices—like the Perpetual Calendar and the Minute Repeater (for under $800)—and these watches were well respected.

Suddenly, complications that had been out of reach for some customers were accessible and even affordable. It was a great strategy, and Citizen went further at Baselworld this year, when it introduced the Signature Collection, which offers even higher-quality, more sophisticated and more complicated watches with light-powered quartz movements. New movements include the Signature Grand Complication with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar, and the Signature Flyback Chronograph with dual time zones. The Signature Collection is largely hand-assembled in a special factory and includes features throughout the collection like sapphire glass with double anti-reflective coating, hidden deployant clasps on bracelet styles, and crocodile straps. For Citizen Eco-Drive women’s models, the Signature Collection includes the highest-quality fit, finish and polishing with detailed dials and individually hand-set diamonds.

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149

The Signature Flyback Chronograph with quartersecond chronograph, minute repeater, date and 24-hour scale; powered by light via Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology. The 44mm case is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 100 meters.

A Signature designed for women, this model features a mother-of-pearl dial, rose gold–tone accents and diamond embellishments totaling 0.49 carats.

The Signature Perpetual Calendar with chronograph, perpetual calendar, dual time and alarm functions, and caseback marked with the Signature crest.

“I think what is exciting about the Signature Collection is that it’s a new opportunity for our brand to expand into a price range that we have not been selling in before,” explains Laurence R. Grunstein, president of Citizen Watch Company of America. “It shows also that we can develop products that have much higher quality than our standard range. Our standard range establishes a ceiling, but this new collection gives us a new price range ($800–1,500) where we can produce new modules that will only be used in this range. In terms of appearance, we will be using doublecoated sapphire crystals, and the quality of the bracelets, bands and cases are at a much higher level, comparable to those on watches in the $5,000 range.”

“With the Signature Collection, we can maintain the core principle of the brand, which is great value, at the higher price point,” he continues. “It also allows us to establish this collection in limited distribution to the best retailers, and each of them will have a certain amount of exclusivity. This certainly gives us a chance to go into retail stores that have not carried Citizen in the past. We will also be advertising in publications read by people interested in products over $1,000. These are marketing opportunities that will have a halo effect for the entire brand.”

The Signature Collection is hand-assembled on a production line made up of highly trained watch technicians.

“The movements are all made in the same factory as the Campanola line, in the Japanese Alps in the center of Japan, about three and a half hours from Tokyo,” Grunstein explains. “There are 30 people working in a progressive

assembly line constructing the movements. It’s not one watchmaker making the movement, as the Swiss typically do; it’s 30 people who work in stages. The Flyback Chrono, for example, has five step motors, which are part of the movement, to make all the hands turn. This manual assembly has technicians at each stage adding on each part of the movement; then the movement is tested in the same facility. This is a different method than most other factories use. We have a more manual process because of the complexity of the movement.”

Grunstein expects the Signature Collection to appeal to people who have outgrown standard quartz watches, but who cannot afford luxury Swiss brands. “The Signature Collection gives these people a viable alternative,” he says.

“With this new collection, we can really grow market share.

Swiss watch exports are decreasing, and business is difficult, but it’s not non-existent; it’s just a matter of who gets it. The bloom is off the rose for some high-end Swiss brands, and this is a big opportunity for us.

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Where to find the Signature Collection? Not in every Citizen retailer—the new collection is reserved for the best of the best. “We plan to have the Signature Collection in 600 retailers this year, and in the end, no more than 1,000, compared to between 10,000 and 12,000 retailers for the regular Citizen line,” details Grunstein. “Because we are limiting this to relatively few retailers, we can keep it in the retailers that fit the collection. We want to pick our best opportunities to attain the highest degree of success.”

Citizen has signed golf champion Padraig Harrington to launch the Signature Collection.

Ranked in the top five worldwide, winner of the last two consecutive British Open Championships and the 2008 PGA Championship, Harrington is excited about working with Citizen. “I am delighted to sign with the world-class watch brand Citizen,” Harrington says. “I believe that it is attention to detail and the ability to execute consistently that makes a good golfer a great golfer.

The same holds true for Citizen, and I look forward to wearing the Signature Collection watches and being featured in their marketing programs.”

Harrington will appear in the Citizen EcoDrive Unstoppable print media campaign throughout the US, Canada and the UK in daily newspapers as well as monthly fashion and lifestyle magazines. Current Citizen Eco-Drive Unstoppable brand ambassador Paula Creamer, the top American golfer on the LPGA Tour, will represent the Signature Collection women’s timepieces.

Citizen Eco-Drive’s international Unstoppable media campaign features an impressive roster of talented athletes including New York Giants’ Super Bowl XLII MVP quarterback Eli Manning and 2009 Daytona 500 champion racecar driver Matt Kenseth.

Bravo to Citizen for continuing to push the limits when it comes to Eco-Drive and quartz technology. The Signature Collection is a great development for Citizen, and for quartz watches in general.

To discover more about Citizen, visit citizenwatch.com or telephone 800.321.3173.

The Signature Grand Complication with quarter-second chronograph, minute repeater and perpetual calendar; powered by light via Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology.

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The winning Audi 12 HOURS OF TIMEKEEPING

Alpina Genève clocked the winning Audi R15 at the 12 Hours of Sebring endurance race. The Swiss watch brand is the privileged partner and official timekeeper of the 12 Hours of Sebring, the opening race of the American Le Mans Series 2009. About 180,000 motorsport fans from around the world

endured the hot Florida sun to witness this exciting and dynamic three-day event. Off the course, Alpina premiered the Extreme 12 Hours of Sebring watch at the Gallery of Legends VIP Area on Sebring Raceway, giving watch enthusiasts and race fans an early opportunity to discover the 257piece limited edition. Founder and

Winners in all race categories receive Alpina's Extreme 12 Hours of Sebring watch.

owner of the series, Dr. Don Panoz received the watch numbered 100/257 in honor of this 100th ALMS race. Winners in all categories were also awarded examples of the Extreme watch to help them time their next victories.

877.619.2824, alpina-watches.com

FORTYFIVE FOR HARRY

It was a polo milestone and the social event of the summer when HRH Prince Henry of Wales and polo poster boy Nacho Figueras battled it out for the title and Piaget’s Polo FortyFive timepiece at the second annual Veuve Clicquot Manhattan Polo Classic. Fittingly, Larry Boland, president of Piaget North America, presented the winning Team Sentebale with the Swiss luxury watch firm’s newest timepiece, the Piaget Polo FortyFive in titanium and stainless steel. The impressive list of attendees at the event included notables Madonna, Kate Hudson, Chloë Sevigny, designer Marc Jacobs and supermodel Alek Wek. “We are thrilled to be a part of New York’s most prestigious polo event and hopefully added a little excitement to the competition with the new Piaget Polo FortyFive,” says Boland.

800.628.8119, piaget.com The Piaget Polo FortyFive

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Figueras and Prince Henry of Wales

Glows all night…

…even if the sun forgets to rise.

The World’s First 24-hour Superluminova Watch Reactor already held the record for the longest-lasting luminous watch (InSync, October 2006), but that wasn’t enough. In our quest to the build the world’s best performance sport watch, we continued to refine our exclusive application technology for Superluminova until we hit this milestone. Gamma is the first watch to reach 24 hours of visibility in total darkness, as certified by the Swiss.

Gamma 10-year power supply in a massive 45.5mm 316L stainless steel, 300M depth tested case. 8 layers of Swiss Superluminova for 24-hour visibility. Stainless bracelet or rubber strap models, $350-$400 U.S. Just one of over 100 styles in the 2009 line.

See them all at reactorwatch.com

The Best Built Performance Sport Watch …period.

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STARSHINE IN CANNES

CORUM FOR A CAUSE

Continuing its longstanding tradition of supporting sailing events, Corum once again supported Hoag Memorial Hospital of Newport Beach, CA, at the 2009 Invitational Regatta for the magnificent Hoag Cup in June. The biennial event, organized and hosted by Hoag Hospital and the Balboa and Newport Harbor Yacht Clubs,

UNVEILED IN TOKYO

Celebrating the fifth anniversary of the opening of its first boutique in Tokyo and its network of boutiques around the world, F.P. Journe unveiled the Octa Perpétuelle timepiece featuring

benefited the Hoag Heart and Vascular Institute. It brought together top-caliber yachts, including some of the fastest canting keelers, offshore racers over 50 feet in length, along with Transpac 52 Class boats for the three-day competition.

Michael Wunderman, president of Corum USA, says, “Throughout its history, Corum has supported regattas as well

as philanthropic and humanitarian actions through various foundations, and we are delighted to continue our association with the Hoag Invitational Regatta and to support Hoag Hospital. This event is a worldclass event with a great cause at heart.” 949.788.6200, corum.ch

The stars shone in Chopard at the opening ceremony of the 62nd International Cannes Film Festival in May. The watch and jewelry brand is an official partner of the renowned annual event, and the maker was much in evidence, worn by Elizabeth Banks, Asia Argento, Isabelle Huppert, Elsa Zylberstein, Eugenia Silva, Jaydy Mitchel, Alessia Piovan, and Chopard co-president Caroline GruosiScheufele. Just days later, the brand presented its 2009 Chopard Trophy for young actors who display particularly promising talent to Léa Seydoux (Inglorious Bastards) and David Kross (The Reader).

800.CHOPARD, chopard.com

a perpetual calendar. The event opened with a speech by the Swiss ambassador to Japan, Paul Fivat, before watchmaker François-Paul Journe, himself, presented the collection of automatic mechanical wristwatches.

The maker’s eighth Octa creation, the Octa Perpétuelle is limited to 99 pieces worldwide. 561.750.2310, fpjourne.com François-Paul Journe (top left); The F.P. Journe Octa Perpétuelle

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Mariah Carey wearing Chopard (top); Chopard's Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele

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LOVE AND CHARITY

Cartier announced the launch of a new Love Charity bracelet on the occasion of the fourth annual Love Day celebration in June. Over the past three years, Cartier has donated more than $4.5 million to 24 global charities through the sale of Love Charity bracelets, and these charities will continue to benefit from future sales. “Cartier has a profound dedication to philanthropy; it is an integral part of the brand’s DNA. We are passionate about supporting important organizations,” says Frédéric de Narp, president and CEO of Cartier North America. One of these organizations is The Art of Elysium, which encourages actors, artists and musicians to volunteer with seriously ill children. Actress Eva Mendes, the Love Charity ambassador for this organization, joined in the Love Day celebration at the Cartier Mansion in New York City. 800.CARTIER, cartier.com; theartofelysium.org The Louvre, Paris SUMMER IN PARIS

Visitors to the Louvre this summer discovered the art of watchmaking at its apogee through a retrospective of the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823). The master watchmaker’s unique precision timepieces combined genius, virtuoso techniques and avant-garde aesthetics. The exhibition brought together numerous exceptional pieces, including watches, clocks and measuring instruments, and displayed them beside portraits, archival documents and patents spanning Breguet’s entire career.

866.458.7488, breguet.com; louvre.fr Eva Mendes at Cartier

Breguet No. 4009 Observation Chronometer, ca. 1825

MÉTIER AT THE MET

Juan-Carlos Torres, pictured with Laura Brown of Harper’s Bazaar and designer Rachel Roy, welcomed guests at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Vacheron Constantin launched its third and final limited series of Les Masques timepieces at a special event held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York on June 2nd. The artistic and innovative series draws inspiration from masks in the BarbierMueller Museum’s collection of tribal art. The evening also marked the opening of “African and Oceanic Art from the Barbier-Mueller Museum, Geneva: A Legacy of Collecting,” a Vacheron Constantin–sponsored exhibition from the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva. Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of

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Vacheron Constantin, Marc Guten, international director, and Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constantin North America, welcomed guests, who were led in an exclusive viewing of the Barbier-Mueller exhibition. Afterward, guests proceeded to the iconic Temple of Dendur in the Sackler Wing, where they viewed a selection of historic and contemporary Métier d’Art timepieces. In addition to the watches, guests were treated to a live demonstration by a Vacheron Constantin master engraver and master watchmaker. 877.862.7555, vacheron-constantin.com

ESSENTIAL GEAR. Invented in the United States. Made in Switzerland.

F-16 FIGHTING FALCON CHRONO NO. 9125: 44mm, stainless steel case, screw-down crown & case back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, black PU strap with signature buckle, water resistant to 200 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of U.S. Air Force Pilots.

www.luminox.com Feldmar Watch Los Angeles 310-274-8016

Julianna’s

Ravits

San Francisco 415-392-1947

Fine Jewelry

citysports.com

800-542-2389

888-994-1010

orvis.com

800-237-4444 cabelas.com

Corte Madera, CA 415-924-9711

Sausalito, CA 877-332-3636

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A PERFECT MATCH

An 80 Goals polo match was held for the first time in Europe in June as part of Polo de Paris, and Swiss watchmaker Hublot was a driving force behind the proceedings. As part of its partnership with the Gstaad Polo Club and with its ambassador, Argentinian polo player Miguel Novillo Astrada, Hublot arranged an 80 Goals match in Buenos Aires in 2008. The 80 Goals

concept brings together eight players with a handicap of 10 (the highest qualification in the discipline), recreating an historic 1975 match. This year, the Argentinian Polo Players’ Association and Hublot cooperated to export the sporting event. The watchmaker is delighted to have its name associated with this prestigious match, and to mark its premiere on European soil, Hublot has created a Big Bang

Contenders in the 80 Goals match at Polo de Paris watch with the image of the Paris Club, bearing the Polo de Paris logo on its dial with the inscription “Hublot, the Perfect Polo Match” on the back. The series comprises 50 numbered pieces.

800.536.0636, hublot.ch

PASS THE PORCELAIN, PLEASE

Thomas Hannss, Roberto Chiappelloni of Manfredi Jewels and Steve Cohen of Glashütte USA

German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original and Manfredi Jewels, a Connecticut purveyor of elegant timepieces, hosted an intimate dinner for an exclusive group of clients in Greenwich this spring. A special demonstration of skill and fine craftsmanship was presented by Thomas Hannss of the Meissen porcelain manufactory in Germany, who explained to guests what is required when creating a Meissen dial for Glashütte’s classically elegant timepieces. Manfredi, celebrating its 20th anniversary, offers a limited anniversary edition of 20 Meissen timepieces in white gold, each powered by the manual-winding Glashütte Original Caliber 49.

But a finely painted white Meissen dial is the watch’s most compelling feature. 866.203.8699, glashuette.com; manfredijewels.com

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When the 63rd annual Tony Awards rolled out the red carpet at Radio City Music Hall in June, Audemars Piguet “covered” the carpet and the nominees with its world-renowned timepieces. The brand acted as the presenting sponsor of the official red carpet telecast. As part of the arrangement, Audemars Piguet Millenary Pianoforte timepieces were worn by both Constantine Maroulis (nominated for best performance by a leading actor in a musical, Rock of Ages) as well as Gregory Jbara who took home the Tony for his performance in Billy Elliot, the Musical. The brand also displayed eight aluminum clocks— decorated by nominees—along this year’s red carpet.

The pieces were later auctioned to benefit the Actor’s Fund, a nationwide human services organization that aids professionals in the performing arts. 888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

Constantine Maroulis on Tony Awards night (top); One of the Audemars Piguet clocks auctioned to benefit the Actor's Fund (left)

Tony Awards photos by Bill Davila/startrakphotos.com

COVERING THE RED CARPET

COMMUNICATE . INSPIRE . ENTERTAIN .

STELLINO EVENTS

unforgettable

NICK STELLINO Well known chef, author, television personality and sought after public speaker.

LET US MAKE YOUR NEXT CORPORATE EVENT AN AFFAIR TO REMEMBER .

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A tribute watch to the US Airborne paratroopers in memory of D-Day

BR 0 1 A I R B O R N E . 4 6 m m . C a r b o n finish steel case . Photoluminescent dial . Au to m a t i c m ove m e n t Information and Catalog: Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 . information@bellrossusa.com . www.bellross.com

Ch창teau Lafite Rothschild, 2000

WAIT. WW.TC Financial Global Stock Market Trading Times World time chronograph.

www.girard-perregaux.com

Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement.

Pink gold case. Sapphire back.

Available in authorized dealers and this fall in our Girard-Perregaux Boutique at 701 Madison Avenue, NY