Watch Journal Issue 7

10: 2010 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M

[ JOURNAL ]

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ASANDOWMEDIAPUBLICATION

ALAIN SILBERSTEIN ANGE BARDE AZIMUTH BALL BASELWORLD BEDAT BELL & ROSS BOVET BREGUET CAMPANOLA CARL F. BUCHERER CHANEL CHRONOSWISS CITIZEN DAVID ORGELL de GRISOGONO DEVON DIOR EDOX ELYSEE EQUIPE ETERNA F.P. JOURNE FORTIS FRANC VILA FRANCK MULLER GALLET & COMPANY GERGÉ GEVRIL GREUBEL FORSEY HAMILTON HERMÈS IWC KRIËGER LUMINOX MAURICE LACROIX MB&F MCT MILUS MONTBLANC ORBITA PANERAI PATEK PHILIPPE PAUL PICOT PIAGET REBELLION RICHARD MILLE ROGER DUBUIS ROLAND ITEN ROMAIN JEROME SEIKO SIHH TAG HEUER TECHNOMARINE TUTIMA TW STEEL U-BOAT ULYSSE NARDIN UNDERWOOD LONDON URWERK VACHERON CONSTANTIN WEMPE ZENITH

WATCH T H E WATC H MAG A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D

elegance Thinner and sleeker than its predecessors, the PAM 336 exudes refinement.

mechanism

The all-new P.999 movement was created for this 42-mm addition to the Radiomir line.

design

The unmistakable Radiomir case glows in brushed and polished rose gold.

PANERAI RADIOMIR ORO ROSA

© 2010 CHANEL®, Inc.

PREMIÈRE WATCH AND ULTRA BRACELETS 18K WHITE GOLD, DIAMONDS AND CERAMIC

CHANEL BOUTIQUES AND FINE RETAILERS

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800.550.0005

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CHANEL.COM

BORNÊ FROMÊ LOVE

B OV E T. CO M F O U N D I N G M E M B E R O F T H E Q UA L I T Y F L E U R I E R C E RT I F I CAT I O N

M R Ê PA S CA L Ê R A F F Y, B OV E T Ê O W N E R , WITHÊ HISÊ SON A N D Ê I N S P I R AT I O N , A M A D E O Ê R A F F Y. ALLÊ Ç AMADEOÈ Ê MODELS A R E Ê C O N V E RT I B L E I N TO Ê A Ê W R I S T WAT C H , A Ê P O C K E T Ê WAT C H A N D Ê A Ê TA B L E Ê C L O C K ( PAT E N D Ê P E N D I N G ) .

B O R N Ê B Y Ê P A S S I O N

INVENTORÊ OFÊ THEÊ FULLYÊ INTEGRATEDÊ CONVERTIBLEÊ WRISTWATCH

F O R Ê E N Q U I R I E S Ê P L E A S E Ê CA L L Ê B OV E T Ê L L C Ê AT Ê 1 Ê 8 8 8 Ê 9 0 9 Ê 1 8 2 2

For relaxed East-West relations.

An imposing time machine full of character, developed with the highest watchmaking passion: the Patravi TravelTec is a chronograph with chronometer certification, which displays three time zones simultaneously. Simply and comfortably thanks to the patented monopusher at 10 o’clock, the travel direction – eastwards or westwards – can be pre-selected and individual time zones jump across.

The mechanism developed for this is integrated in the highly complex case and remains visible through a side window. Carl F. Bucherer’s philosophy of the intelligent, useful functions and mechanisms could not have been implemented more perfectly. www.carl-f-bucherer.com info@cfbnorthamerica.com To locate an authorized retailer nearest you, please call 800 395 4306

+ QUICK READS T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 10:2010

WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

INDUSTRY WATCH The inside track from the world of watches—the brands, the business, the industry as a whole.

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LUXE FINDER

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Watch Journal brings together top products from every corner of the luxury market.

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GRAHAM

MERCEDES BENZ

CONCORD

British Racing Green sets the theme in this Graham Chronofighter Oversize GMT.

Gullwing doors are the ultra-cool stylistic highlight of the 2011 SLS AMG.

The limited edition C1 Zest chronograph radiates energy in white and orange.

+ FRANC VILA

Rated for 300 meters, the FV Evos 8CH Cobra is prepared for intense water activities.

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EVENT WATCH Who’s doing what, where and why: discover how the watch industry influences events, philanthropy and celebrity.

17th of September 1755. In the offices of the solicitor Mr. Choisy, a young Master Watchmaker from Geneva named Jean-Marc Vacheron is about to hire his first apprentice. This agreement is the first known reference to the founding watchmaker of a prestigious dynasty and it represents the establishment of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watchmaking manufacturer in the world in continuous operation.

Ever since this agreement, and true to the history that built its reputation, Vacheron Constantin has been committed to passing on its knowledge to each of its Master Watchmakers in order to guarantee the excellence and durability of its craftsmanship and of its timepieces.

Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-reserve, Pink gold and titanium case, Hallmark of Geneva, Self-winding mechanical movement

For more information, contact our Concierge at 1 (877) 862-7555 or visit www.vacheron-constantin.com

+ FEATURES T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 10:2010

136 132 124

148 144 140

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WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

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VALUE PROPOSITION

DEALING WITH EJECTION

THE DANCE OF TIME

Panerai’s strength increases as it introduces a new in-house movement.

Bailing out has its rewards; qualifying to own a Bremont is the latest.

With a twinkle in the eye, Hermès encourages customers to play with time.

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TIME SQUARED

MORE THAN DIAMONDS

MIDDLE KINGDOM MYSTERY

Maurice Lacroix surprises the watch world by reinventing the wheel.

Harry Winston’s timepieces explore creative extremes with audacity.

Discovering watches produced in matched pairs at the Patek Philippe Museum.

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REPEAT PERFORMANCE

The musical minute repeater is among the most magnificent mechanical complications.

Finally, a navigation system without that annoying voice.

“I’m not saying a word.”

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men.

Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement (figure) | Flyback function | Automatic IWC double-pawl winding system | Date display | Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel

Night Owls wanted.

For men who cut loose after dark. The Grand Lunar. Shows every phase of the moon in a galactic size on the starry sterling silver guilloche dial. The orbit of the date indicator ensures that no appointment is left to chance. Gravitates towards men and women alike. www.chronoswiss-na.com

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Call (609) 375-2146

+ DEPARTMENTS T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 10:2010

WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

IN FOCUS A closer look at a significant model or design process; in this issue: MB&F, page 54, Edox, page 56, and Luminox, page 58.

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5 MINUTES WITH

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Notable personalities and the watches that make them tick; in this issue: Vincent Perriard, page 104, Ron Stoll, page 100, Fawaz Gruosi, page 102, and Alain Huy, page 106.

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HOW IT WORKS The vital function of a watch case is hidden in plain sight.

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AGAINST ALL ODDS

TIME TRIALS

EMERGING FROM THE LAB

The unlikely story of IWC unfolds in an exclusive serialization of stories by Paolo Coelho.

Mechanical watches go head to head in a new accuracy competition.

Hamilton invents a way to market its most unusual creations.

THE COVER + ON The Panerai Radiomir Oro Rosa, a refined Radiomir that glows in rose gold.

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WORLD TIME Watch Journal ’s city guide: places to be, things to see in New York, Las Vegas and San Francisco.

THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION. LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT Hand-wound mechanical movement P.2002 calibre, three spring barrels, second time zone with 12/24 h indicator, 8-day power reserve with linear indicator, seconds reset.

Steel case 44 mm Ø. Steel buckle.

www.panerai.com

Available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.

NEW YORK BOUTIQUE • 545 Madison Avenue • 212-223-1562 BEVERLY HILLS BOUTIQUE • 9490A Brighton Way • 310-228-1515

+ PUBLISHER’S LETTER T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 10:2010

WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

HAPPY , ANNIVERSARY WATCH JOURNAL How exciting that it was one year ago when the first issue of Watch Journal hit newsstands and mailboxes.

I remember speaking about the new magazine and how it would not only represent an evolution of its previous incarnation, InSync, but how it would evolve to become the top luxury magazine about watches.

Back then, I promised that we would grow watch culture by providing you, as well as new readers, with inventive and inspiring watch editorials and graphics beyond imagination. I also promised that we would reach out to a broader, more affluent audience as a way of expanding interest in watches.

While the economy has presented the luxury industry with many challenges over the past year, we remained true to our task. Let’s check the score.

Is Watch Journal the ultimate luxury magazine about watches?

We certainly think so, but what matters more is the way the magazine is perceived by others. Happily, I can report receiving innumerable comments from readers and industry leaders alike that Watch Journal is the best of the best when it comes to watch journalism and the printed page. So, check it off!

Has Watch Journal expanded watch culture?

Watch Journal is the only watch magazine available in private airports through its proprietary distribution program. Now, more than one-third of Watch Journal ’s readership is made up of affluent private jet travelers, who are certain to be thinking more about watches. Watch Journal is also reaching new readers through expanded newsstand distribution. Check!

Looking ahead, what new commitments will Watch Journal make for the coming year?

Watch Journal will commit to develop a unique and luxurious website that will rival Watch Journal ’s print edition in terms of design, interest and innovation. It will be an exciting and luxurious online space that will continue to expand interest in luxury watches.

Watch Journal will present an exclusive invitational tour of extraordinary watches unlike anything ever presented in the US and one that our readers will have the opportunity to experience.

The Watch Journal team and I look forward to exceeding expectations in the coming year and again earning the highest marks. Until then, keep me informed about how Watch Journal is measuring up. And watch these pages for more amazing announcements.

—Glen B. Bowen PUBLISHER

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DIOR CHRISTAL

Sapphire crystal & diamonds WWW.DIOR.COM / 1 866 675 2078

FOLLOW YOUR CONVICTIONS “I DON‘T WANT TO BE LIKE YOU. I DON‘T WANT TO THINK LIKE YOU. I‘M GOING TO BE LIKE ME.“ From “Looking after number one“ - Bob Geldof 1976 Sir Bob Geldof - Musician, Activist, Businessman

From starting a band to receiving a knighthood, Sir Bob Geldof has stayed true to himself in everything he does. At Maurice Lacroix, we create our unique movements and award-winning designs by hand – because, like Sir Bob, we too follow our convictions.

For more information visit www.MauriceLacroix.com Masterpiece Squelette

+ LETTER FROM SWITZERLAND T H E W AT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D 10:2010

WATC H J O U R N A L .COM

DECLARATION OF

INDEPENDENTS WHY WE NEED THE INDEPENDENT BRANDS

The watch industry has its giants and its small independent players—in sports terms, the perennial power players and the underdogs—and it’s natural to assume that the larger and more established the player, the more important it is. But I would argue that it is the smaller players (brands like Cabestan, Hautlence, HD3, Jean Dunand, Urwerk and others) that actually perform the larger role in driving the industry forward.

The big luxury groups, such as LVMH and Richemont, and the world’s largest watch group, Swatch, have many wonderful brands in their stables. But large, well-established and extremely successful brands are not predisposed to taking huge risks when it comes to new product development. Like successful businesses in other industries, they are much more likely to opt for a safe bet than a risky undertaking. And when they do decide to explore new territory, they tend to move slowly and cautiously.

Smaller independent brands, by virtue of being less established and more nimble, can take greater risks in developing unusual products—often aimed at niche markets—in the hopes of reaping greater rewards than they could by competing head on and making the same sorts of watches as the bigger players. They are also able to move faster, quickly change course when something is not working and bring new ideas to market seemingly overnight, without the kinds of delays that can occur under a large corporate structure. The result: independent makers have created some incredible watches, unlike anything produced by the mainstream brands.

For these reasons, independent brands are important to the present and to the future of the watch industry. We need these companies in order for the industry to evolve, innovate and move in new directions.

That’s not to say that independent brands have it easy. They are relatively unknown, their production capacities are typically low, their price points are often quite high and it’s difficult for them to make inroads with watch retailers.

Particularly in today’s economic climate, many retailers are unwilling to take on new brands, and carrying unknown brands means a great deal more work for a retailer.

Still, variety is the spice of life, and the best of the independent brands, the ones with true vision, outstanding creativity and a legitimate story, should survive. I also have a selfish reason for wishing the independents great success. As a journalist, I want to be able to tell the stories of these independent brands, their interesting ideas, the cool watches they produce and the ways in which they influence the industry as a whole. So, I’m rooting for more than a few of the industry’s underdogs.

—Keith W. Strandberg I n T e R n AT I o n A L e D I T o R

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Piaget Manufacture movement 880P Mechanical self-winding chronograph Flyback, dual time 100 meter water resistant Titanium, sapphire case-back Rubber strap

www.piagetpolo.com

1-877-8PIAGET - NEW YORK BAL HARBOUR LAS VEGAS SOUTH COAST PLAZA

[ J O U R N A L ]™ T H E WAT C H M A G A Z I N E R E D E F I N E D

Glen B. Bowen

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF DESIGN DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNERS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR INTERNATIONAL EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR COPY CHIEF SENIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER SENIOR ADVERTISING PRODUCTION DESIGNER ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNERS PHOTO RETOUCHERS TRAFFIC MANAGER TRAFFIC COORDINATOR EDITORIAL COORDINATOR PHOTO EDITOR DIRECTOR OF CLIENT SERVICES CLIENT SERVICES EXECUTIVE CONTRIBUTORS

Dean Sebring Alvaro Diaz-Rubio, Valerie Sebring Marie A. Picon Keith W. Strandberg Liz Ritter Chelsea Greenwood Timothy B. Wooten Svetlana G. Suarez Michael Dudnick, Alyson Stokkers Chris Ablan, Michael Dobias Melissa C. Quiñones Isabelle Rios Kay Hodgdon Amanda Silversmith Tanya Suber Hayley Merrill Carol Besler, Mike Daly, Bernie Libster, Stephen Priesthoff

Adam I. Sandow CHAIRMAN AND CEO

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, SALES EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT CORPORATE MANAGING EDITOR VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND GROUP PUBLISHER VICE PRESIDENT OF WEB TECHNOLOGY SENIOR DIRECTOR OF IT AND INFRASTRUCTURE DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION SENIOR DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE MARKETING DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE MARKETING DIRECTOR OF FINANCE AND ACCOUNTING CONTROLLER ACCOUNTING MANAGERS ACCOUNTS PAYABLE MANAGERS COLLECTIONS MANAGERS ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER SUBSCRIPTIONS SERVICES STAFF ACCOUNTANT ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT HUMAN RESOURCES BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER PRINCIPAL DEVELOPER PRINCIPAL ARCHITECT SENIOR DEVELOPER DEVELOPER DATABASE ADMINISTRATOR INTERACTIVE DIRECTOR OF DEVELOPMENT WEB DEVELOPER SYSTEMS ENGINEER IT SYSTEMS SUPPORT ANALYST ASSISTANT TO THE CEO DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS OPERATIONS MANAGER OPERATIONS ADMINISTRATION DIGITAL PRINT CENTER MANAGER DIGITAL PRINT CENTER NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT

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Scott R. Yablon Yolanda E. Yoh Doug Fierro James Dimonekas Erik I. Herz Pamela Lerner Jaccarino Michael J. Ruskin Tom Cooper Annie Oddo Joseph Alexander Fern E. Meshulam Katharine Tucker Jeffrey Rovner Andrea Efland Barbara Mabie Kristen Delisio, Raquel Howell Shirley Cruz, Shannon Kavanagh Julia Perez, Karen Theierl Emel Emin, Kristy Kilian Jody L. Yablon Alisa Light Kristen Hitchcock Andrea Ocampo Lisa F. Silver Monica Del Borrello Vishal Singh Christopher Coleman James Pyrich Michael Lewis Jeffrey Forrester Brian Wilpon William Joey Green Joseph Toland Richard Cruz, Christopher Daggett Stephanie Brady Laurie Platkin Williams Rick Jacobs Tamas Szakal Nicole Battaglini, Maritza Severino Christopher Ferris Max Kreutzer Ron Sklon

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CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER & CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

™

Always exceeding expectations.

3946 GLADE VALLEY DRIVE HOUSTON, TX 77339 281.359.4385

3731 NW 8TH AVE BOCA RATON, FL 33431 561.750.0151

360 PARK AVENUE SOUTH 17TH FLOOR,NEW YORK, NY 10010 646.805.0200

SANDOWMEDIA.COM

Watch Journal™ [ISSN 1096-3839] is published bimonthly. Watch Journal™ is a registered trademark of InSync Media Group, a subsidiary of Sandow Media LLC. Copyright 2010, InSync Media Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal™ are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal™ , InSync Media Group, Sandow Media LLC, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisements contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal™ . The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine.

Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal™ have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal™ . Printed in the USA.

WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

EL PRIMERO STRIKING 10th Swiss manufactured high frequency chronograph (patent N째 ep 1 499 929 b1)

ZENITH, OBSESSION WITH PRECISION SINCE 1865 www.zenith-watches.com 866 675 2079

the word “Chronometer” has a superlative form.

Zeitmeister.

The WEMPE ZEITMEISTER is the only German chronometer-certified wristwatch. As a sign of the uniqueness of this new collection, the back of each watch is engraved with a depiction of the Glashütte Observatory, where our watches undergo a strict 15-day testing procedure which verifies their precision. Only after passing these tests do they earn the distinction of being awarded an official chronometer certificate. Available exclusively at Wempe. $2,780.

700 Fifth Avenue at 55th Street

New York

TEL: 212.397.9000

Hamburg Berlin Munich Dusseldorf Frankfurt London Madrid Paris Vienna

wempe-ZEITMEISTER.com OPEN SUNDAYS 12–5

Automatic movement Water resistant to 200m Swiss made www.hamiltonwatch.com 866-382-2471

KHAKI PILOT

WWW.ROGERDUBUIS.COM

A Tra d it ion S in ce 1 9 3 3 Fi ne Je welr y, Tim e p ie ce s, A n tiq u e s & G ifts 262 Nor th R od e o Dr ive , B e ve rly H ill s -- • -- • .

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

COMING TO AMERICA

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Volcano

+ LEBRON JAMES: The MVP chooses Audemars Piguet

ONE MVP TO ANOTHER

When NBA superstar and free agent LeBron James dropped a bomb on Cleveland fans by announcing that he would join the Miami Heat, some reacted with surprise and disappointment, but it was no surprise when King James selected an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Volcano in stainless steel with orange numerals, an orange dial flange and orange stitching on the strap to mark the moment. After all, the Royal Oak Offshore has long been a star player in Audemars Piguet’s lineup, and James knows talent when he sees it.

888.214.6858, audemarspiguet.com

REAL WORLD TESTS

The Watchtester is the latest creation of Dietlin Artisan Metalworkers, the Swiss designer and manufacturer of showcases that brought a customer-operated carrousel

The Watchtester

window display to European retailers last year. The Watchtester is a secure showcase that allows users to freely test the look of a timepiece on the wrist.

When this invention debuted at the Baselworld trade fair this spring, thousands of enthusiasts slipped their wrists into the glass tube of the Watchtester and carried out more than 38,000 “tests” over the 10 days of the fair. The display successfully proved its reliability.

What’s next from this self-described developer of “augmented reality?” Teasers released by Dietlin suggest that it will feature high speed—278 kph. dietlin.ch

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It was June 2008, following the famed 24 Hours of Le Mans, in an atmosphere rich with the smell of motor oil and hot engines, when the team behind Rebellion first decided to test the limits of a mechanical power reserve just as the endurance race tests the limits of fine-tuned racing thoroughbreds. This fall, Rebellion’s $105,000 T-1000 with 1,000hour power reserve is set to arrive at retailers around the world. Only 100 pieces are being produced, and, of those, only two T-1000 watches were initially slated for the US. But, citing a very positive industry response, Johnny Wizman, president of Luxury Montres LLC, which distributes the new brand in North America, says that additional pieces will definitely be coming to the US. 305.674.9670, rebellion-timepieces.com

Rebellion’s T-1000

MONTBLANC. THE TIMEWRITERS.

In 1821, Nicolas Rieussec changed watch-making forever with the invention of the first chronograph. Since “chronograph” literally means “writing time”, the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph rewrites time-piece history. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, this masterpiece is a worthy tribute to its visionary namesake. Monopusher chronograph, self-winding manufacture movement. 30 min. and 60 sec. rotating disc counters fixed on the counter bridge.

www.montblanc.com

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

SHOCK WAVE

Swatch boutique at the Swatch Art Peace Hotel

ROOMS OF THEIR OWN

The Swatch Group opened four mono-brand boutiques on the ground floor of the Art Peace Hotel in Shanghai. The historic hotel is one of the city’s most prominent structures and enjoys protected status as a cultural monument. Fully restored, the hotel will reopen later this year as the Swatch Art Peace Hotel, a unique international center for contemporary art.

The project’s operational concept blends a retail environment with

a residential hotel where artists live and work. Parisian architectural firm Jouin Manku developed a comprehensive design for the hotel interiors as well as the unique environment of the Swatch boutique. Leading Swatch Group brands Breguet, Blancpain and Omega are also represented with boutiques of their own. swatchgroup.com

Ball has announced the development of a new antishock system that will be part of its forthcoming Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital watch. The patented Ball Amortiser Rotor-Lock protects automatic movements against extreme shocks using an anti-magnetic ring between the movement and the case and a rotor-locking mechanism that prevents the winding rotor from turning when shocks are anticipated, such as when playing golf. The system is said to protect delicate mechanical movements from both lateral and frontal shocks and to prevent damage from free falls of more than 5 meters. The new watch, priced around $4,500, is expected to debut this fall.

727.896.4278, ballwatchusa.com

The Swatch Art Peace Hotel in Shanghai

+ Ball case with Amortiser Rotor-Lock, exploded view

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1- 866- D E G R I SO

DUBAI - GENEVA - GSTAAD - HONG KONG - KUWAIT - LAS VEGAS - LONDON - MOSCOW NEW DELHI - NEW YORK - PARIS - PORTO CERVO - ROME - ST BARTHELEMY - ST MORITZ - TOKYO

w w w. d e g r i s o g o n o . c o m

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

chronograph is at the top of the range. There is also a chronograph and a day/date model. All use automatic movements. The Type M Metropolis launches this September.

800.626.4374, gergeswiss.com VEGAS WINNERS

Norwegian golf champion Suzann Pettersen has recently joined the ranks of TAG Heuer brand ambassadors from the world of sports. A fan of TAG Heuer watches for many years, the 29-year-old started playing golf at the age of 6 and is currently ranked third in the world in women’s golf and second on the LPGA’s money list. Striving to gain the top of the rankings and the thrill of winning the majors drives Pettersen to compete. She says, “A watch is a necessary piece of jewelry and an expression of who you are.”

There are two TAG Heuer watches that suit Pettersen to a tee— the sporty and sophisticated Link with diamonds and the Lady Aquaracer in steel and gold.

866.260.0460, tagheuer.com

JCK Events, comprising the Luxury by JCK, Swiss Watch by JCK and JCK Las Vegas trade shows, reports record-breaking attendance at its 2010 shows, which wrapped up in June. In addition to the 20,000 retailers who consistently attend JCK,

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SUITED TO A TEE

SUZANN PETTERSEN: Norwegian golf champion and TAG Heuer ambassador

more than 600 VIP retailers were on the show floor this year.

Buyer attendance was up by 20 percent, and international participation increased by 23 percent with the highest concentrations of foreign visitors coming from India, Russia, Canada, the UK, Mexico and South America.

In 2011, the JCK shows will take place in new venues at the Mandalay Bay complex beginning May 31, and early commitments indicate that 2011 should be another winner.

800.257.3626, jckshows.com

WELCOME TO THE METROPOLIS

Gergé Swiss Timepieces premiered its limited edition Type M Metropolis collection at this year’s Couture trade show in Las Vegas. The collection, comprising seven references, won recognition as a finalist in the 2010 Couture Design Awards during the show.

Inspired by futuristic urban architecture, the watch features a 15-part, 45-mm case— in steel, titanium or titanium with rose gold—with an open lug design. A COSC-certified

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The Type M3 Metropolis Automatic Mono-Pusher Chronograph in titanium

CLIPPER MECHANICAL CHRONOGRAPH Steel and titanium case, mechanical self-winding movement, rubber strap Crafted by Hermès watchmakers in Switzerland 1.800.441.4488

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R Om T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

+ JEFF ZWART:

Racing Pikes Peak for Luminox

PEAK PERFORMANCE

Driving a specially prepared Luminox Watch Porsche 911 GT3 Cup racecar in the 88th running of the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb, Jeff Zwart shattered the previous 2WD Time Attack Class record by 38 seconds and claimed the win on June 27. Zwart is now a seven-time class winner. The driver commented that he built confidence every time he drove the customized car, which didn’t lose horsepower through the 5,000-foot climb, and that was key to his victory. “Without Luminox Watches, Porsche motorsport North America and Pirelli tires’ support, this victory would not have been possible,” says Zwart, who wears a 47-mm Luminox Black Field Chrono.

800.858.5215, luminox.com

DIRECT FROM DÜSSELDORF

The German brand Elysee celebrates its 50th year of producing affordable, high-quality timepieces by coming to the US.

Established in 1960 in Düsseldorf, Elysee is now appearing in American jewelry stores for the first time. The German-made collection encompasses automatic, mechanical

+ Munich Sport Chronograph Ref. 49064

+ Luminox Black Field Chrono

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and quartz watches in a core price range of $295–$1,295 and a selection of special mechanical pieces, including models with Valjoux 7750 movements and a tourbillon, at higher prices that still represent strong value. mark Shell, managing director of the brand’s US operations, says, “There couldn’t be a more ideal time for the US introduction of Elysee, an established German brand that emphasizes great value, innovative design and quality.”

888.883.0050, elyseeusa.com

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

Equipe’s engine-block display

education. “I am honored to have the opportunity to be an ambassador for Chanel’s J12 Marine watch and to work with a brand of such quality and heritage,” says Hamilton. “This watch is authentic. I have put it to the test, and it has survived me. As a result, I look forward to representing the J12 Marine.”

800.550.0005, chanel.com

Chanel has chosen surfer Laird Hamilton as ambassador for the first diving watch to come from the House of Chanel, the J12 Marine. Hamilton is hailed as a co-inventor of tow-in surfing and a passionate practitioner who has dedicated his life to pushing the boundaries of big wave surfing. He is most passionate, however, about environmental causes and focusing his efforts on protecting the oceans and influencing others to follow in his path. In honor of its new partnership, Chanel is pleased to support the Surfrider Foundation, a nonprofit environmental organization dedicated to the protection and enhancement of the world’s oceans and beaches through conservation, activism, research and

+

MARINE SURFOLOGIST

Cohen to the post of executive VP in early July. In this newly created position, Cohen reports directly to the president, Laurence R. Grunstein.

Cohen was most recently worldwide president of the Movado brand at Movado Group, Inc., where he was instrumental in growing Movado and establishing it as one of the leading brands in

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

LAIRD HAMILTON: The passionate surfer partners with Chanel

Equipe gets gear-heads’ engines revving with its automobileinspired watches. Now the Detroit-based brand offers watch retailers a creative and innovative way to showcase timepieces that is certain to grab attention. Equipe has created an in-store display system that promotes the theme of the brand. The creative custom display is a mold of an engine block—complete with pistons and manifold—that presents the entire Equipe watch collection.

Every Equipe watch is part of a limited edition, and each features its own VIN-style serial number. 248.896.0316 equipewatches.com EXECUTIVE CLASS

Citizen Watch Company of America, Inc. announced the appointment of Jeffrey A.

The J12 Marine

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Jeffrey A. Cohen

the luxury timepiece market.

Cohen will be involved in all aspects of the business, including sales, marketing, finance and operations. “We at Citizen are fortunate to have such a seasoned watch executive join our company,” states Grunstein. “Jeff brings more than 26 years of watch management experience to Citizen.” 800.321.3173, citizenwatch.com

+ INDUSTRY WATCH

WATCH REPORT | N EWS A N D H A P P E N I N G S F R OM T H E WORLD OF WATCHES

Richard Mille boutique at the Grand Hotel Kempinski in Geneva

TIME FOR A CAUSE

GRAND HOTEL

A Richard Mille boutique has opened at the Grand Hotel Kempinski on Quai du Mont Blanc in Geneva. The space houses the complete range of Richard Mille timepieces, including the RM 020 Tourbillon Pocket Watch, and reflects the modern and architectural style of Richard Mille’s universe. As in every Richard Mille boutique, the exterior glass features etched watch designs. Inside, dark ebony wood combines with stainless steel to create a luxurious and calm atmosphere. There is a

dedicated VIP lounge area and a resident watchmaker’s workspace. A watchmaker will be on hand to demonstrate the technology and design specific to Richard Mille watches.

310.205.5555, richardmille.com DECADE OF ENTHUSIASM

Ten years have passed since the debut of paneristi.com, the online home of Panerai watch fans. In that time, the number of users exchanging information, comments and stories through the site has grown from a few dozen to several thousand. To mark the anniversary and celebrate the extraordinary passion of Panerai enthusiasts, on July 1, Officine Panerai revealed a special edition watch created at the request of the “Paneristi” and reflecting their preferences.

The DLC-treated Luminor for Paneristi’s Anniversary 44 mm uses the manual winding OP I movement.

Panerai’s classic crownprotection device contributes to a 300-meter water-resistance rating. Ecru Super-LumiNova

Panerai Luminor for Paneristi’s Anniversary 44 mm

on the hands and markers and an antiqued leather strap add to the watch’s vintage look.

Engraving on the steel caseback references the site and its anniversary. Naturally, the special watch launched on the paneristi.com forum, which also posted ordering instructions.

All 300 pieces sold out within a few minutes. 877.PANERAI, panerai.com

Since providing the funds in 1899 to build the renowned Museum of Watchmaking in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Gallet & Company has maintained a tradition of supporting institutions that preserve the history of timekeeping. Now, to benefit the National Watch & Clock Museum in Lancaster County, Penn., Gallet is offering a special limited edition watch, the Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph. There are five variants and a total of 1,050 pieces—250 in stainless steel, 250 in yellow gold, 250 in white gold, 250 in rose gold and 50 in platinum. The first example of each variant will remain in the collection of the National Watch & Clock Museum.

888.9.GALLET, galletwatch.com, nawcc.org

Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph

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El Toro Patented Perpetual Calendar.

Self-winding movement.

18 ct red gold case with ceramic bezel.

Water-resistant to 100 m. Also available in platinum.

Limited to 500 pieces.

W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

F O R A C ATA L O G , C A L L 5 6 1 - 9 8 8 - 8 6 0 0 O R E M A I L : U S A 1 3 @ U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

+ IN FOCUS

THE HM4 THUNDERBOLT | LIGHTNING STRIKES A FOURTH TImE FOR mB&F

Considered by many to be the most audacious

machine to emerge from the creative micro-engineering concept laboratory known as MB&F, the HM4 Thunderbolt hit on July 7, when lab founder Maximilian Büsser simultaneously unveiled it in person in Singapore and online to the world.

Both the actual and the virtual presentations elicited immediate and overwhelmingly positive responses. The fourth creation in mB&F’s growing roster of “horological machines” has been called a stunning masterwork and a statement timepiece.

With an unmistakable tone of admiration, its engine has been described as “indecently complex,” its debut as “ostentatious,” and its “instrument feel” has been touted. To say simply that the Hm4 Thunderbolt is not a traditional wristwatch is to understate its particularity.

Every component of the movement and case was designed and produced specifically for this watch. What’s more, the case and movement were made specifically for each other. The jet engine– like twin pod configuration conceived by Büsser would be impossible otherwise.

Comprising 65 parts, the aerodynamic titanium and sapphire crystal case displays the maker’s originality, its

sophisticated use of alternating finishes and its expertise with sapphire crystal formed into tightly curved shapes. There are five crystals in all, offering multiple views of the movement. The crystal in the top of the case puts the oscillating balance on full display.

Articulating front lugs attach a black calfskin strap, and conform this 52-by-54-mm bundle of power to the wrist.

There are 311 components making up the movement.

Horizontally configured dual mainspring barrels drive two vertical gear trains that transfer power to the machine’s dual displays—one indicating hours and minutes via SuperLumiNova filled hands and the other indicating what remains of the 72-hour power reserve. mB&F plans to produce 20 Hm4s, each priced at $158,000, before the end of the year. Is it a small price to pay for mB&F’s most radical machine yet?

Fans of the brand are likely to think so.

888.884.0838, mbandf.com

HM4 CREDITS Every product coming out of M B&F is the output of a collective of independent horological professionals working to reinterpret horology. T he list of collaborators is always lengthy, and everyone is duly recognized.

Responsible for the H M 4 are:

The engine of the HM4 Thunderbolt

Concept: M aximilian Büsser Product design: Eric G iroud Technical and production management: Serge K riknoff Production logistics: D avid Lamy Movement development: Laurent Besse, Béranger Reynard, Patrick Lété Movement manufacturing: D aniel U hlmann, N icolas Broquet, Yann Ryser Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-A drien Rochat, D enis G arcia Movement assemblage: D idier D umas, G eorges V eisy Case and buckle construction and production: Jean-Pierre K ohler, Lionel G avignet, M artin Stettler, D ominique M ainier, Bertrand Jeunet Dials: François Bernhard, D enis Parel Hands: Pierre C hillier, Isabelle C hillier, Félix C eletta Strap: O livier Purnot Presentation box: O livier Berthon Communication: G raphic design: A lban T homas, G érald M oulière Product photography: M aarten van der Ende D isplay architecture: Frédéric Legendre Portrait photography: Régis G olay Webmasters: Stéphane Balet, G uillaume Schmitz Texts: Ian Skellern Project manager: Estelle Tonelli

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The top of the case, revealing the oscillating balance in a central atrium

+ IN FOCUS

DYNAMIC DUO | A SWISS WATCHMAKER AND A SWEDISH BOUTIQUE AUTOMAKER TEAM UP TEXT BY: MIKE DALY

When Swiss watchmaker Edox

recently extended its reach by making its products available to customers in the US, some interesting information trickled out regarding a partnership with one of the world’s most boutique manufacturers of exotic supercars, Koenigsegg.

Founded in 1994 by namesake Christian von Koenigsegg, a gifted Swedish designer and technical innovator whose myriad inventions conjure images of Ettore Bugatti, Koenigsegg has consistently evolved by merely remaining solvent, no minor miracle in the field of privately funded, low-volume supercar manufacturers, especially in today’s economic climate.

But Koenigsegg and its 0–60 mph in 3.2 seconds CCX largely escaped the notice of watchmakers until 2006, when Edox became an official partner of the Class 1 World Powerboat Championship series, the F1 of open sea powerboat

competition. It was there that the watchmaker began to take note of the Negotiator team, whose sleek and slippery powerboat advertised the sponsorship of Koenigsegg. Recognizing mutual values of quality and performance, the two companies embarked on a collaboration, the first product of which was the 2007 Edox-Koenigsegg watch, a mechanical chronograph with an officially certified chronometer movement.

Using an Edox 45 calibre movement and a specially manufactured complication from Dubois Dépraz, the Edox-Koenigsegg features a hand-finished carbon fiber dial, anti-reflective sapphire

crystal and a handmade crocodile leather strap.

It is the wristwatch’s unique case, however—made of corrosion-resistant stainless steel and titanium— that visually connects the timepiece to the Koenigsegg automobile. Conventional at

The Koenigsegg CCX, priced from $950,000 a glance, the case actually features hinged sides that lift for access to the chronograph pushbuttons, a design cue that is no doubt intended to evoke the Koenigsegg CCX’s vertical scissor doors.

Retailing for $36,000, the Edox-Koenigsegg watch is a limited edition of 30 pieces, with an additional 10 examples of a more exclusive version set with diamonds. For a watch company that generally produces pieces priced between $500 and $4,000, this is clearly an attempt to explore deeper waters.

845.425.9882, edox.ch koenigsegg.se

Left and opposite page: The 46-mm Edox-Koenigsegg chronograph with tachymeter, $36,000

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FIRST CLASS TIMING T he 43-mm Class-1 Chronoshore Limited Edition chronograph for 2010, $4,475

Since 2007, Edox has been the official timekeeper of the UIM Class 1 World Powerboat Championships. The 126-year-old watch company, in cooperation with Class 1 engineers, has developed specialized chronometry using satellite and GPS technology. The high swells encountered during the races on the open sea and at speeds in excess of 150 mph call for a special kind of time recording. Edox’s hightech measuring instruments must meet demanding criteria for water resistance, shock resistance and precision. And, heralding the competition, a special Edox Chronoffshore limited edition wristwatch marks the start of each season. class-1.com

+ IN FOCUS

DREAM MAKER | LUMINOX AND BRAZILIAN RACER TONY KANAAN FULFILL A DREAM TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Champion Indy Racing

“As a watch lover and collector, I’m always buying watches, always looking for what’s new and different,” Kanaan explains. “If my friends on the circuit and I would have a couple of bad races, we would buy a new watch to change our luck. As a result, having a great watch became a kind of a charm for me. If a watch brings me luck, I tend to wear it all the time.

“When I met with Barry Cohen, founder of Luminox, we came up with the plan for a Tony Kanaan limited edition. I wanted to include some carbon fiber on the watch, and I wanted it to be very sporty. It had to

the design and production process, Kanaan approved every aspect of the timepiece, from the overall design to the many small details.

The oversized asymmetrical 44-mm case is a real departure for Luminox, the perfect way to mark the brand’s first foray into the world of big-time motor racing. The partnership with Kanaan is no one-shot deal, either. Plans are already in the works for three more Tony Kanaan–themed timepieces.

Kanaan in competition at this year’s Iowa 250 (above) and Watkins Glen events

“I’M ALWAYS BUYING WATCHES, ALWAYS LOOKING FOR WHAT’S NEW AND DIFFERENT.” —TONY KANAAN

be a chronograph, because of racing. I also incorporated my team colors and the team logo, of course.”

The Luminox designers worked closely with Kanaan to develop a brand new timepiece, the 1100 series, with a new three-part case that will be the platform for all Tony Kanaan Signature Chronographs moving forward. At each step of

DREAM TEAM Kanaan drives for Andretti Autosport of Indianapolis, the team owned by Mario Andretti’s son Michael. His teammates include Marco Andretti and Ryan Hunter-Reay. Follow the season at andrettiautosport.com.

“We are delighted to be working with Tony Kanaan,” says Luminox’s Cohen. “It’s an honor for a Luminox timepiece to be part of his essential gear.

Having him so deeply involved with the design was a true pleasure, and we look forward to developing this partnership in the years to come.”

“Working on the watch design was a wonderful experience for me,” Kanaan says.

“In terms of design, performance and precision, I feel almost as if my new Luminox watch is a part of me when I wear it. This is just the first watch of many.”

But has Kanaan’s Luminox watch brought him any luck?

Well, he claimed his first victory since 2008 at the Iowa 250 in June. Another dream fulfilled, no doubt.

800.858.5215, luminox.com

Photos by LAT USA, courtesy of Andretti Autosport

League driver Tony Kanaan often dreamed of designing his own watch. Partnering with Luminox, he made the dream a reality.

MILUS USA (866) 726-4587

WWW.MILUS.COM

“I FEEL ALMOST AS IF MY NEW LUMINOX WATCH IS A PART OF ME.” —TONY KANAAN

DREAM WATCH The first Tony Kanaan Signature Chronograph, a limited edition of 500 pieces, prominently featured Kanaan’s then-signature colors, bright blue and orange. A second limited edition, available this November, with green and yellow details reflects the recent change in Kanaan’s livery colors. Individually numbered and priced at $950, this Swiss-made quartz chronograph with tenthof-a-second timing and tachymeter has a black PVD steel bezel affixed with six satin-finished screws, a blackened steel caseback and a black carbon-fiber middle section, a nod to the high-tech materials used in IndyCar racing. luminox.com

060

060

10:2009 | WAT C H J O U R -

10:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

Photo by LAT USA

Luminox Tony Kanaan Signature Chronograph

PADRAIG HARRINGTON British Open Champion 2007 British Open Champion 2008 PGA Champion 2008 European Tour Golfer of the Year 2007 European Tour Golfer of the Year 2008 PGA TOUR Player of the Year 2008 Unstoppable.

THE MAKING OF A LEGEND

44mm

Introducing

Š2010 Citizen Watch Company

SIGNATURE MOON PHASE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH 1/5 Second Chronograph 12/24 Hour Time Anti-Reflective Sapphire Glass Crocodile Strap

CITIZEN ECO-DRIVE Fueled by light, it never needs a battery.

UNSTOPPABLE citizen-signature.com

FRED MEYER JEWELERS

LITTMAN JEWELERS

1.800.457.5977

+ WORLD TIME

CITY GUIDE | WATC H JOURNAL’S B LACK B OOK OF PLACES TO B E, THI NGS TO SEE

+ NEW YORK

+ LAS VEGAS

+ SAN FRANCISCO

Autumn in New York has its own inimitable charm, and it's hard to match this world capital’s energy or its significance as a center of business and culture.

The constant pulse of this desert playground attracts 30 million visitors a year. Amidst the non-stop entertainment there are oases of calm to be found.

September and October are the warmest months in vibrant and culturally diverse San Francisco, an important financial center and a city of landmarks.

Tourneau TimeMachine 12 East 57th Street 212.758.7300 tourneau.com

Tourneau Time Dome The Forum Shops 3500 Las Vegas Boulevard South 702.732.8463 tourneau.com

Tourneau Westfield San Francisco Centre 845 Market Street 415.974.1846 tourneau.com

Four Seasons Hotel 57 East 57th Street 212.758.5700 fourseasons.com

Bellagio Las Vegas 3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South 888.987.6667 bellagio.com

The Westin St. Francis Union Square 335 Powell Street 415.397.7000 westinstfrancis.com

Per Se 10 Columbus Circle 212.823.9335 perseny.com

RM Seafood at Mandalay Bay Mandalay Bay Hotel & Casino 3930 Las Vegas Boulevard South 702.632.9300 rmseafood.com

Farallon 450 Post Street 415.956.6969 farallonrestaurant.com

Brioni 57 East 57th Street 212.486.0500 brioni.it

Ermenegildo Zegna The Forum Shops 3500 Las Vegas Boulevard South 702.369.5458 zegna.com

Wilkes Bashford 375 Sutter Street 415.986.4380 wilkesbashford.com

Top of the Rock 30 Rockefeller Plaza 877.NYC.ROCK topoftherocknyc.com

"Jersey Boys" The Palazzo Las Vegas 866.641.7469 jerseyboysinfo.com

Golden Gate Bridge Highway 101 North goldengatebridge.org

Salon de Ning The Peninsula New York 700 Fifth Avenue 212.903.3097 salondening.com

Nora's Wine Bar & Osteria 1031 South Rampart Boulevard 702.940.6672 noraswinebar.com

Ruby Skye 420 Mason Street 415.693.0777 rubyskye.com

Flatiron District 20th to 25th streets between Sixth and Lexington avenues

Red Rock Canyon Red Rock Canyon Road 702.515.5350 redrockcanyonlv.org

“Beach Blanket Babylon” Club Fugazi 678 Green Street 415.421.4222 beachblanketbabylon.com

WATCH SHOP

STAY

EAT

DRESS

SEE

BE SEEN

DISCOVER

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Entirely invented and manufactured in-house 18K Gold movement

Octa Divine - Platinum or Red Gold case

B O U T I Q U E S PARIS +33 1 42 68 08 00

GENEVA +41 22 810 33 33

NEW YORK +1 212 644 5918

TOKYO +81 3 5468 0931

BEIJING +86 10 8517 2036

HONG KONG +852 2522 1868

w w w . f p j o u r n e . c o m

LUXE FINDER LUXE FINDER WATCH JOURNAL’S CURATED SELECTION OF THE HOTTEST WATCHES AND MOST LUXURIOUS PRODUCTS

CONCORD C1 ZEST PINEL & PINEL ARCADE 80S TRUNK URWERK UR CC1 BLACK COBRA G R A M O P H O N E T W O W AY H O R N L O U D S P E A K E R

U LY S S E N A R D I N H A M M E R H E A D S H A R K M A X I M A R I N E D I V E R WILLIAMS FW32 BLACK SERIES DRIVER FRANC VILA FV EVOS 8CH COBRA YELLOW

MERCEDES BENZ SLS AMG P E R R E L E T B I G C E N T R A L M O O N P H A S E R E F. A 5 0 0 0 2

R A L P H L AU R E N S T I R R U P MAÎTRES DU TEMPS CHAPTER ONE ROUND

MILUS CUFF LINKS T I R E T G O T H A M AU T O M AT I C C H R O N O CHANEL J12 MARINE ANCHOR BLACK GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER OVERSIZE GMT

B O V E T P I N I N FA R I N A O T TA N TA T O U R B I L L O N BELL & ROSS INSTRUMENT BR01 94 COMMANDO

U LY S S E N A R D I N C H A I R M A N D I A M O N D E D I T I O N PIAGET POLO FORTYFIVE K R I Ë G E R G I G A N T I U M K O N F E T T I M A N G O M A N DA R I N

66 67 68 69

70 71 72

74 75

76 80

81 82 84 86

88 90

92 94 96

LUXE FINDER

CLEAN

Concord's limited edition C1 Zest radiates energy through its bright white and hot orange color scheme and retains energy with its 48-hour power reserve. $12,800, 800.547.4073, concord-watch.com

ENERGY

STURDINESS The COSC-certified automatic movement is protected by a rugged 53-part, 44-mm stainless steel case and a 3.3-mm-thick sapphire crystal.

CONTRAST

STYLE

Easy-to-read black chronograph counters and small seconds disc stand out against an orange honeycomb-patterned background.

The rubberized white alligator leather strap has orange stitching and a stainless steel deployant clasp marked with the Concord name.

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LUXE FINDER

REMASTERED “Pacman,” “Space Invaders” and “1942” are among the 60 different retro games included in the arcade.

Adapted to display better on the 19-inch LCD screen, the graphics are sharper but remain true to vintage style.

CRAFTSMANSHIP Dressed in the quality stitched calfskin synonymous with Pinel & Pinel, the Arcade 80’s Trunk comes in 51 colors and can be further adorned with signature GT stripes.

Finishing touches include a chrome-plated console, palladium-nickel joystick and aluminum wheels.

GAMING HIGH

The nostalgic creation imagined by Parisian trunk maker Fred Pinel offers an impressive tribute to arcade gaming consoles of the ’80s.

In addition to the fine materials used, the Arcade 80’s Trunk feaBaguette-cut gems ceramic are the thoroughly modern turesofahigh-tech custom-made sound system complete withembellishan iPhone/iPod ments on the coin-edged bezel,$15,125; double chapter rings, lugs and bracelet of the dock. Classic, GT, $17,755; pineletpinel.com

LEGEND

Chanel J12 Intense Black, a 42mm timepiece powered by the automatic Chanel AP 3125 movement. 800.550.0005, chanel.com

INTENSITY 067 067

10:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M 02:2010

LUXE FINDER

INVENTIVE Caliber UR-8.02 has automatic winding regulated by a pneumatic rotor Fly Brake, which minimizes winding system wear.

LINEAR A linear and digital seconds display is paired with jumping hours and minutes indicated on linear scales via rotating cylinders. Flyback of the minutes cylinder triggers the hours cylinder to advance.

LARGE The 53.9-by-42.6-mm timepiece is produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces.

SNAKE

Crafted in black AlTiN alloy over titanium, the Urwerk UR-CC1 Black Cobra interprets time as a linear progression rather than a cyclical phenomenon. $288,000, 310.271.0000, urwerk.com

CHARMER 068 10:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

LUXE FINDER

SOUND The only speaker in the world to combine horn and waveguide loading in a bass-reflex enclosure, the Gramophone has a frequency response from 37 Hz to 20 kHz (Âą 3 decibels) and a sensitivity of 97 decibels/watt/meter. Translation: superior sound reproduction even at high volume while using only 80 watts of continuous amplifier power.

SHAPE Reaching nearly 4 feet in height, each Gramophone speaker is assembled by hand.

This careful craftsmanship produces perfectly aligned sound waves that are guided through the horns and hollow, narrowing cabinets, designed to provide brilliant sound.

SLEEK

SPEAKERS Limited to a series of just 100 pairs, the Gramophone two-way horn loudspeaker system by Aesthesis combines function and stylish form. A collaboration with Eker Design, Carbocomp and Ergonomidesign, all of which are also involved with Swedish sportscar manufacturer Koenigsegg, enabled Aesthesis to reach new heights of sound performance. About $80,000, aesthesis.se

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LUXE FINDER

WILD LIFE

The limited edition Hammerhead Shark Maxi Marine Diver in titanium is the newest Ulysse Nardin timepiece honoring nautical history and the ocean’s majestic creatures. $19,900, 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com

POWERED Caliber UN-26 is a self-winding mechanical movement with power reserve indication, small seconds and date function.

LIMITED Production is limited to 350 examples with rose gold bezel and strap element and 999 examples with steel bezel and strap element.

POLISHED The 45-mm case is skin-friendly, high-grade polished titanium, and each is individually numbered and engraved with images of the hammerhead.

070 10:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

LUXE FINDER

EXCLUSIVE

CLUB

Emulating superior Formula One design, the Williams FW32 Black Series Driver mirrors the advancement in materials and technology of FW32 racecars. Price upon request, williams-sports.com

AERODYNAMICS Three key design aspects ensure maximum performance. The trip redirects airflow over the crown to reduce drag, the winglets manage airflow to create a more stable downswing and the diffuser complements the trip in reducing resistance by controlling the airflow across the soleplate of the driver.

HEAVY METAL Using Densimet for weighting the FW32 Black Series, designers had more flexibility to shape the driver because less material is used to achieve the same weight. Also used in Formula One racecars, Densimet is the second heaviest metal in the world.

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LUXE FINDER

HIGH

Created with aficionados of extreme sports in mind and water-resistant to 300 meters, the limited edition Franc Vila FV Evos 8CH Cobra is prepared for intense water activities. $25,000, 305.674.9670, francvila.com

INTENSITY

SHAPE DieHard extreme steel, carbon fiber and titanium combine to form the uniquely shaped case and bezel. The sapphire crystals on the dial side and in the caseback are treated with anti-reflective coating.

FLEXIBILITY The black rubber strap with DieHard extreme steel deployant buckle is interchangeable with an included crocodile strap with yellow stitching.

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RJ Watches.PO BOX 340267, Tampa Fl, 33694 0267 • Tel: 813 926 3367

LUXE FINDER

FLYING

Exceptional comfort and timeless style characterize the 2011 SLS AMG, the first supercar produced entirely by MercedesAMG. $185,750, mercedes-benz.com

HIGH

STYLISH

POWERFUL

High performance is combined with a luxurious interior and iconic gullwing doors, the stylistic highlight of this road machine, reminiscent of the 300SL gullwing coupe of the 1950s.

The carbon-fiber driveshaft is paired with a 563-horsepower AMG V8 engine capable of accelerating from 0–60 mph in 3.7 seconds.

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LUXE FINDER

CONSTANCY Automatic Caliber P-211 displays the lunar position accurately for more than 100 years without correction by keeping the central disc in constant motion.

SPORTINESS In titanium attached to a natural black rubber strap, the 43.5-mm case projects sportiness. The black and anthracite dial with a date scale at its perimeter surrounds the moon phase indicator behind a tinted crystal.

LUNAR

Perrelet's Big Central Moonphase captures the trajectory of Earth’s only satellite and displays the path of the moon against a starry background. $6,350, 888.596.9483, perrelet.com

MISSION 075 10:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M 06:2010

LUXE FINDER

PONY

Proceeds from the sale of the new Ralph Lauren Stirrup limited edition in rose gold with diamonds benefit the Pink Pony Fund, Polo Ralph Lauren’s initiative in the fight against cancer. $21,500, ralphlauren.com

EXPRESS

THEMATIC Equestrian style is at the heart of the brand’s heritage and is the inspiration for the Stirrup case shape.

A row of full-cut diamonds frames the off-white lacquer dial.

EXCLUSIVE

076 10:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M

Just five examples are offered, each accompanied by a note from Ralph Lauren. The watches are on display at Ralph Lauren boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, London, Paris and Tokyo.

RUSTED STEEL T-OXY III CHRONOGRAPH

RJ Watches.PO BOX 340267, Tampa Fl, 33694 0267 • Tel: 813 926 3367

T H E C R E AT U R E

+ R U R O R J L F D O 0 D F K L Q H 1

T H E C R E AT O R S

H O R O LO G I C A L M A C H I N E N 0 3 — T H E E N G I N E

LOS ANGELES : WESTIME — LOS ALTOS : LUSSORI — GREENWICH : MANFREDI — MEXICO : BERGER LONDON : MARCUS — PORTO CERVO : GREAT MASTERS OF TIME — MILANO : GREAT MASTERS OF TIME GSTAAD : GRIMAWATCHES — PARIS : CHRONOPASSION — BERLIN : JUNDEF — MOSCOW : MERCURY KUWAIT : GHADAH — DUBAI : SEDDIQI — BANGKOK : PMT THE HOUR GLASS — SINGAPORE : THE HOUR GLASS MACAU : EUROPE WATCH GROUP — TOKYO : THE HOUR GLASS MB&F NORTH AMERICA : T. 888-884 -0838 — SH@MBANDF.COM

LUXE FINDER

COMPLICATED

INNOVATIVE

The tourbillon movement incorporates a monopusher column-wheel chronograph, retrograde date and retrograde GMT functions, moon phases and dayof-the-week indication. The combined complications comprise 558 parts.

The rolling bar display is a distinctive characteristic of the Chapter One. A rolling bar between the lugs at 6 displays the day, while a matching rolling bar at 12 indicates the phases of the moon with precision.

OPEN BOOK

The ease of reading and adjusting an impressive roster of indications is primary in the design of the limited edition Chapter One Round by MaĂŽtres du Temps. $470,000, 570.970.8888, maitresdutemps.com

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LUXE FINDER

OFF THE

Luxury watch brand Milus unites masculinity with beauty in elegant cufflinks for the watch enthusiast. $280–$9,300, 866.726.4587, milus.com

CUFF

VARIETY The cuff links are available in a blackened finish, 18-karat white gold, 18-karat rose gold or rose gold with diamonds.

LIVELINESS The playful quality of a mechanical watch movement with its oscillating weight in constant motion distinguishes this cuff link design.

081 081 081

06:2010 | WAT C H J O U R N A L . C O M 10:2010 CC HH JO UU RR NN AA L .LC. C OO MM 10:2009| |WAT WAT JO

LUXE FINDER

GRAPHIC The dial is marked by applied Arabic numerals, the maker's logo and displays of the day, date and chronograph totalizers. Stylized Empire State Building hands indicate the time.

INDIVIDUAL Choose the case material, the dial, the bezel. Options include precious metals and materials such as smoked sapphire, polished stone, natural rubber, high-tech ceramic and gemstones.

CITY

Tiret New York presents the Gotham Automatic Chronograph, a couture horology concept limited to 500 pieces, each one of which will be customized by its owner, revealing a personal view of time. $18,250, 212.921.8848, tiretnewyork.com

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Š2010 Citizen Watch Company of America, Inc.

As functional art... this is a masterpiece.

Minute Repeater.

Case, dial, band and movement are crafted and hand assembled by master watchmakers.

From cutting and hand polishing its case, to minutely finishing its precision parts, the exceptional beauty of a Campanola is born.

www.campanola-timepieces.com AVAILABLE AT

WOODFIELD MALL OAKBROOK CENTER SOMERSET COLLECTION NORTH

KENWOOD TOWNE CENTRE

1-800-829-2600

Perpetual calendar with 2 alarms and the delicate bell tones of a minute repeater.

Dual curved sapphire crystal. Crocodile band. Case: 45mm.

LUXE FINDER

STYLE FILE

Chanel’s J12 Marine marks the 10th anniversary of the J12 model with depth-defying features and sport-chic style. $4,900, 800.550.0005, chanel.com

EQUIPPED An authentic dive watch, the J12 Marine is waterresistant to 300 meters and features a notched unidirectional rotating dive bezel and screwdown crown with ceramic crown guards.

ENCASED The 42-mm matte black ceramic case holds a black lacquer dial and a selfwinding Swiss movement beneath an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

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(310) 659-5525

LUXE FINDER

UTILITY WORLDLINESS

The automatic bi-compax chronograph movement, Caliber G1733, offers double-disc big date and 42-hour power reserve.

The black and green sapphire bezel is marked with a 24-hour GMT scale, and the black dial features British Racing Green subdials.

GO

British Racing Green sets the theme in this Graham Chronofighter Oversize GMT, a 47-mm chronograph with dual time zone function. $9,325, 213.622.1716, graham-london.com

GREEN 086

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LUXE FINDER

HOUSE

Celebrating the 80th anniversary of iconic Italian design house Pininfarina, Bovet Fleurier presents the Ottanta Tourbillon, designed in partnership with Pininfarina. $280,000, 41.22.731.4638, bovet-fleurier.ch

SPECIAL

CODES The anniversary is referenced by the tourbillon mechanism—which makes a complete rotation every 80 seconds—and by the numeral 8–shaped rim of the balance wheel centered in a ring representing 0.

COMPLEXITY Reversible and convertible from a wristwatch to a pocket watch or table clock, the case holds a movement comprising 514 components.

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engineered for the new road ahead.

Š 2010 SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION

e ngine e r e d for t he ne w road ahead.

dedicated to perfection SPORTURA. As the inventor of the quartz watch in 1969, SEIKO has always known that motor sport tests the watch maker to the limit. So we crafted the new Sportura with a stainless steel case, a sure-grip sculpted crown, a sapphire crystal and 100 meter water resistance. Because, in high speed motor sport, performance and simplicity go hand in hand. SeikoUSA.com

LUXE FINDER

CENTRAL

The limited edition Bell & Ross Instrument BR01-94 Commando is a commanding presence with its black carbon powder–finished case and black photoluminescent hands and markers against a matte gray dial. $6,500, 888.307.7887, bellross.com

COMMAND

TIMING Chronograph functions, including 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers, are powered by an automatic mechanical ETA 2894 movement.

CONSTRUCTION The 46-mm square case is constructed of 316L glass bead–blasted stainless steel and features visible screw heads at each corner and a screw-down crown.

The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.

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LUXE FINDER

EXECUTIVE PERKS

A unique hybrid smartphone from luxury watch brand Ulysse Nardin and SCI Innovations, the Chairman Diamond Edition combines functionality, unparalleled elegance and exclusivity. $129,000, 877.UNCELL5, uncells.com

ENERGY A fusion of traditional watchmaking and modern technology, the Chairman features many of Ulysse Nardin’s iconic design elements, including a distinctive winding rotor, which supplies supplemental power to the phone.

SMARTS The Ulysse Nardin Chairman offers 32 GB of memory, a 3.2-inch touchscreen with thumbprint recognition and 3G capability.

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www.technomarine.com 1.800.822.2312

CRUISE SPORT COLLECTION Interchangeable straps and case cover

LUXE FINDER

EASE The flyback chronograph with 30-minute totalizer instantly returns the chronograph hands to zero and automatically restarts timing with the press of one button.

DISPLAY The black dial features Clicquot yellow details.

It displays chronograph minutes at 3, small seconds at 6, time in a second zone at 9 and date at 12.

CHAMPAGNE TOAST

The sporting 45-mm Piaget Polo FortyFive Chronograph with self-winding Piaget 880P manufacture movement is dressed for polo in a new limited edition inspired by the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic. $21,900, 877.8PIAGET, piaget.com

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ForÊ dealerÊ inÊ yourÊ areaÊ pleaseÊ contactÊ LuxuryÊ MontresÊ LLCÊ atÊ (305)Ê 674Ê -Ê 9670Ê orÊ emailÊ info@luxurymontres.com

LUXE FINDER

EXPOSURE The uncovered mainspring barrel, visible just to the right of 12, is just one exposed part of the skeletonized, manual-winding Swiss movement, which offers 42-hour power reserve.

CHOICE The 43-mm case is offered in stainless steel, yellow gold or rose gold. Interchangeable exotic skin straps and bracelets in both steel and gold multiply the customization options.

FESTIVE TIME

KriÍger’s Gigantium Konfetti Collection defies the ordinary with inventive applications of color, gemstones and cutout dials. The skeletonized movement of the Mango Mandarin version sizzles with gradations of color and decorative engraving. $4,950, 800.441.8433, kriegerwatch.com

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+ FIVE MINUTES WITH...

RON STOLL | T H E P R ES I D E N T O F A BU R G EO N I N G B O U T I Q U E B R A N D P R I O R I T I Z ES T R A D I T I O N A L WATC H mA K I N G A N D H A R D WO R K TExT By: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Ron Stoll, president of Carl F. Bucherer North America, is at the helm of a

growing company that is capturing market share, despite what everyone acknowledges is a challenging economy. “There are a lot of positive signs that the market is getting stronger,” he says. “People are starting to feel better about life and are willing to go out and spend some of their money. Today, buyers are more educated and cautious, and they will be buying more traditional goods—they will look for things that offer quality and value and have a long life cycle.”

All of this is good news for Carl F. Bucherer, which focuses on classical watches with useful complications and offers its own in-house movements.

“One of the reasons we have done well is that we offer traditional watchmaking, and we are not influenced by outside trends; we make watches based on what we believe watches should be,” Stoll notes. “All the way back to 1888, the philosophy of Carl F. Bucherer has been quality and value over quantity, and when people hold our watches in their

WHEN IN EUROPE

The A1000 movement with peripheral winding rotor

hands, they feel the quality and value. We will always remain a boutique brand, so it will always be something special to own and wear a Carl F. Bucherer timepiece.”

Stoll knows a few things about quality mechanics. As a trained watchmaker and a former competitive driver of openwheel, rear-engine racecars, he appreciates engines of all kinds.

“I am a guy who is driven by mechanical things,” he comments. “I love automobiles, I raced cars for 10 years, and I like moving parts. I view a watch movement as a small engine, and I love the mechanical

The Patravi EvoTec BigDate with python strap for women

Stoll’s willingness to work hard and go the extra mile may be exactly what a burgeoning brand like Carl F. Bucherer needs.

And what kind of watch does a driven former racer and watchmaker choose for himself?

“There are so many great timepieces,” Stoll says. “But my favorite is the new Carl F. Bucherer EvoTec PowerReserve.

I like the look; I appreciate the technology, and I like the way the complications are displayed.”

Recalling the many watches he’s had over the years, Stoll says, “my first watch when I was a young boy was a Timex, and I can remember every watch I’ve ever owned because of my deep appreciation for watches. They are something important to me.”

800.395.4306, carl-f-bucherer.com

aspects of a watch. I love the precision and the external beauty as well.”

In business, Stoll is nononsense. He founded Stoll & Co. Watchmakers 32 years ago in a converted coat closet and grew it to a 50-employee service center handling 9,000 repairs per month. He joined Carl F. Bucherer in 2004. Stoll chalks up his personal success to hard work. “And the fact that I truly love what I do,” he adds.

“The growth of the organization is my motivation. That’s what gets me out of bed early in the morning and allows me to work long hours every day.”

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In the midst of a busy and successful Baselworld 2010 trade show, Ron Stoll, the 50-something president of Carl F. Bucherer North America, decided to do what European men of a certain age often do—he took the plunge and shaved his head.

“There comes a point when you realize you either have hair or you don’t,” Stoll says, describing what had become something of a style liability for him. Stoll endured some good-natured ribbing over the decision, but compliments prevailed. He says, “I like it, and everyone tells me I look 10 years younger.” And that’s a plus for any head of a brand.

“IT WILL ALWAYS BE SOMETHING SPECIAL TO OWN AND WEAR A CARL F. BUCHERER TIMEPIECE.” — RON STOLL PRESIDENT, CARL F. BUCHERER NORTH AMERICA

+

Stoll wears the Patravi EvoTec DayDate in steel with rubber bezel

+ FIVE MINUTES WITH...

FAWAZ GRUOSI | D E G R I S O G O N O D ES I G N E R A N D B R A N D FO U N D E R C E L E B R AT ES 1 0 Y EA R S I N WATC H ES TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Looking at the range of envelope-pushing watches from

Swiss luxury brand de Grisogono, it’s hard to believe that president and brand founder Fawaz Gruosi was an outsider in the watch industry just 10 years ago. But it’s true. Gruosi was a successful jewelry designer, but he had never worked on a watch project before creating the first de Grisogono timepiece. several have advanced watchmaking by presenting designs and mechanisms that had never been attempted before.

Now de Grisogono is celebrating 10 years of watches with special editions for 2010.

The brand has revisited its iconic models and enhanced

“LUXURY IS RARE; YOU CAN’T FIND IT EVERYWHERE.” —FAWAZ GRUOSI The Instrumentino with gem-set dial

them with diamonds, colored sapphires, rubies and other gemstones, bridging the worlds of watchmaking and fine jewelry. “From the very beginning, we have been mixing watchmaking with high jewelry. Now it is easier for us to sell an expensive watch rather than a simple steel

Instrumento No. Uno

watch,” he says. “I am especially proud that we have been able to put this brand on the top of the luxury business,” Gruosi says. “We have incredible creativity, and our craftsmanship is like that in haute couture. In a short time, we have achieved so much.”

After having weathered the worst financial crisis in years, Gruosi is ready for just about anything. One thing that will not change, despite market fluctuations, is Gruosi’s vision for the future of the de Grisogono brand. “I strive to offer innovative creations not found elsewhere in the market today,” he says. “I’m driven by my intuition and push my staff for constant inventiveness.”

“I enjoy the passion, the creation and the work I do every day,” he continues. “I am not a businessman but an artist. I love to think about the new creations and designs I will produce this year. My

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management style is a lot of delegation and a bit of paternalism. I love my team and can only work with people who trust me 100 percent.”

“I am very proud when people buy my watches,” he says in closing. “It feels incredible when I meet someone who is wearing one of my watches or some of the jewelry. I want them to feel special, knowing that they are wearing such pieces. Luxury is rare; you can’t find it everywhere.”

Thanks to Gruosi, luxury is found in de Grisogono.

866.DEGRISO, degrisogono.com

Instrumento No. Uno photos by Monique Bernaz

When the jewelry business in which he was a partner wanted to expand its offerings, Gruosi, never one to be intimidated, designed and produced the Instrumento Uno, a bold, head-turning piece that quickly established the brand in the watch world. “I didn’t want to have a brand in our store that was not ours, so we created watches,” he explains.

Successive introductions have continued to turn heads and convey the brand’s unmistakable style, and

“FROM THE VERY BEGINNING, WE HAVE BEEN MIXING WATCHMAKING WITH HIGH JEWELRY.” — FAWAZ GRUOSI DE GRISOGONO DESIGNER AND BRAND FOUNDER

+

o. to N n e m Instru

o Un

+ FIVE MINUTES WITH...

VINCENT PERRIARD | T H E T EC H N OMA R I N E G R O U P C EO O N ST R E N GT H A N D B O L D N ES S TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Vincent Perriard

has earned a reputation for turning brands around and making them successful. His last gig was with Concord, where he invigorated the brand and took it in a totally new direction. Now, his new home is TechnoMarine.

TechnoMarine turned the watch industry on its ear in 1999 by mixing plastic watches with diamonds, but, ultimately, the brand couldn’t sustain the success that it had briefly enjoyed, and it all but disappeared from the market.

Perriard is part of a new management team put in place last year, and, already, he says, he can see a difference. “We are up all around the world, and we are opening up new markets internationally,” says Perriard, TechnoMarine Group CEO. “The potential of our price segment, $300–$3,000, is really high, and that’s why I came to TechnoMarine. We have cleaned up the brand, we are communicating a strong message, and we are coming to market with strong designs.

This gives us good opportunity in today’s marketplace.”

TechnoMarine has hired additional people from the watch industry over the past few months, and there is a team approach in place. “In the past, there was no one with watch industry experience involved in the company,” he notes. “As for myself, I believe I can bring energy, vision, network, distribution, marketing ideas and hopefully good management. I want to turn TechnoMarine around 360 degrees.”

TechnoMarine’s Cruise Steel Camouflage

“I WANT TO TURN TECHNOMARINE AROUND 360 DEGREES.” —VINCENT PERRIARD Perriard is counting on the strength of the TechnoMarine name to enable that turnaround. “The brand used to be strong and appealing before it disappeared, but there is still awareness of TechnoMarine,” he says. “There is goodwill there, so if we have the right products, the right marketing

and the right emotion, we have a good chance to succeed.”

One of the most appealing qualities of TechnoMarine is its ability to disrupt the status quo. “TechnoMarine is surprising, strong and bold, at an aggressive price, and I love that,” Perriard emphasizes.

“These days, this is exactly

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what people want. They want something different, and they want something daring at an affordable price. I think the potential for TechnoMarine is fantastic.”

Perriard is a long-time watch lover who has a great deal of respect for the established brands. “I’m very much in tune with the brands I have worked with,” he says. “I have a crush on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, and I love the Concord C1. But, right now, I am wearing the TechnoMarine Cruise Sport. I love it because I was part of the design process.

If I don’t wear this watch, I don’t wear anything. It doesn’t mean I don’t respect other watches, it just means I am committed to TechnoMarine.”

Perriard isn’t content only to improve sales; he wants to shake things up and do things that have never been tried.

One of these is a project called TechnoID, which applies the talents of superstar watchmakers to TechnoMarine’s plastic watches. “It’s plastic meets high design,” he explains. And the emphasis will be on the mechanisms. “We don’t just want to use diamonds anymore. We want to bring the concept of the watchmaking machine to the plastic watch. Inside, we want to have an engine.”

Whatever comes out of TechnoMarine under Perriard’s direction, one thing is certain—it won’t be dull.

800.822.2312, technomarine.com

“TECHNOMARINE IS SURPRISING, STRONG AND BOLD, AT AN AGGRESSIVE PRICE, AND I LOVE THAT.” — VINCENT PERRIARD TECHNOMARINE GROUP CEO

+

Vincent Perriard, standing, with Steven E. Cohen, CEO of TechnoMarine North America; Perriard wears the Cruise Sport 45, and Cohen wears the UF6

+

+ FIVE MINUTES WITH...

ALAIN HUY | Z E N I T H ’S WO R L D LY YO U N G B R A N D D I R ECTO R N OW CA L L S T H E US H OM E TEXT BY: MARIE A . PICON

Alain Huy has been intrigued with the US since

childhood. The Cambodian-Chinese executive grew up in the South of France before embarking on a career that has taken him to cities as diverse as Hong Kong and Neuchâtel. He speaks four languages and has traveled the world, but as the New Jersey–based brand director for Swiss watch manufacture Zenith, part of the LVMH Group, Huy couldn’t be happier to call the US home.

Few brands can boast of a history as remarkable as Zenith’s. This maker has been operating from the same address for 145 years; by the

early 20th century, the company employed 1,000 people in its factory in Neuchâtel; its El Primero chronograph movement survived the quartz crisis and became an important part of the mechanical renaissance after having been consigned to the scrap heap in the 1970s.

of the year, traveling the country and meeting with the jewelry store owners who stock Zenith timepieces. Youthful and energetic, he is an apt representative of the brand that he characterizes as having entered its “young adulthood,” that is, an age in which it is looking back

“ZENITH’S AFFORDABILITY IS ITS BEST-KEPT SECRET.” These are just some of the facts about Zenith that drew Huy to the company.

He says, “Founder Georges FavreJacot was a visionary like Henry Ford. He housed all métiers under one roof.”

And, in that same vein, Zenith controls the entire process of its movement manufacturing today.

Huy has been in the US since late 2009. In his new job, he is responsible for sales, marketing and retailer training. And these tasks keep him on the road for a good portion The El Primero Striking 10th

at its family history and recognizing its heritage and its place in the world. “It is important to focus on strong partnerships with the right dealers,” Huy says. “I am traveling, learning, listening and becoming familiar with the watch sellers with whom we work in partnership.”

And how is this newcomer finding the US? “I love the energy of this country,” he says. “This is the secondlargest market for Swiss watch imports, and it is an important market for Zenith.” Having lived in densely populated Hong Kong, Huy says he has been surprised to discover the sheer size of the US and the distance between cities. An entire day of travel that results

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in seeing only one customer is something the young exec says has required some getting used to. When he’s not traveling, Huy lives in Westchester County, N.Y., with his wife, a New York native who was happy to return to her home state, and their two boys, ages 9 and 7.

Innovative complications may be what Zenith is best known for. Its El Primero, introduced in 1969, was an early self-winding chronograph and, vibrating at 36,000 bph, is still the most precise series-produced movement.

The new El Primero Striking 10th chronograph displays 10ths of a second legibly in what Huy refers to as a “natural readout” on a 10-second scale at the perimeter of the dial.

However, according to Huy, the brand also has a secret weapon. He says, “Zenith’s affordability is the best-kept secret.” He cites the 40-mm Elite Ultra Thin in steel (priced at $3,900) as an example of a finely finished and classically styled high-quality timepiece that impresses people as being more expensive.

Despite their quality and heritage, Huy does not believe that Zenith watches are the kinds of products that “sell themselves.”

He explains, “We need passionate store owners who understand the creations. We must romance the customers, because the watch business is really a people business.”

866.675.2079, zenithwatches.com

“THE WATCH BUSINESS IS REALLY A PEOPLE BUSINESS.” —ALAIN HUY ZENITH BRAND DIRECTOR

+

Huy wearing the Elite Ultra Thin 40-mm Rose Gold, $10,800

THE MUSICAL MINUTE REPEATER IS AMONG THE MOST MAGNIFICENT MECHANICAL COMPLICATIONS

BY CAROL BESLER The minute repeater rivals the tourbillon as watchmaking’s most elaborate and visual complication. The only thing close to the thrill of watching a tourbillon escapement dancing on its axis is the sight—and sound—of tiny hammers striking the gongs at the perimeter of a minute repeater.

The striking watch was invented before the days of electricity, when the only way to read the time at night was to light a candle or an oil lamp. The first examples were “dumb” repeaters, which struck the hours by thuds on the case, much like the vibrating function on today’s cell phones. They made no sound and could only be detected if the watch was held in your hand, which meant, presumably, taking it to bed with you. Eventually, a bell was attached to the inner back cover of the watch, where the hammer strikes.

At first, repeaters only chimed the hour, but, as technology evolved, they also sounded the quarter hour or the half-quarter hour. The earliest mechanisms to indicate the number of minutes elapsed appeared in the late 17th and early 18th centuries in

Germany and England. But it was the Swiss who refined the repeater mechanism. In the early 19th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet and his team of watchmakers designed a watch that used a set of coiled wire gongs instead of a bell. The gongs reduced the size of the mechanism and provided distinctive tones. Now that we no longer need striking watches to tell the time at night, we have, after centuries of tinkering, at last perfected the workings of the minute repeater.

The newest generation of repeaters demonstrates an array of technical improvements over predecessors. Top-secret alloys for hammers and gongs improve the sound, and advanced safety features allow the wearer to set the watch without damaging the movement. Watchmakers are also getting creative about combining minute repeaters with other complications, including flying tourbillons, tri-retrograde seconds and carousel escapements.

Even so, there are essentially six different types of repeater watches. Here is an overview.

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E X A M P L E

COMPLICATIONS CONCERTO

One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanical masterpieces, the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie combines 26 complications, including grande sonnerie and petite sonnerie with Westminster chimes. Price upon request. 800.552.8463, jaeger-lecoultre.com

EXCLUSIVE: The Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie is one in a set of three highly complicated watches. Production is limited to 30 sets.

SELECTION: A striking modes selector controls whether the watch chimes automatically or on demand; there is also a silence mode. A dedicated hand on the lower part of the dial indicates the striking mechanism’s power reserve.

F I V E-M I N U T E R EPEATER This system strikes the hour, quarter-hour and each five-minute interval in between the quarters.

The five-minute repeater also uses different combinations of two notes—a low tone for the hours, a high and a low tone for the quarters, and a high tone for the five-minute intervals.

E X A M P L E

APERTURE OVERTURE

The newest horological masterpiece from Epos is the Five Minute Repeater in 316L stainless steel. $12,000, 800.689.2225, epos.com

CLOSED: Each numbered 42.5-mm case is water-resistant to 50 meters and fitted with a leather strap and folding clasp.

Production is limited to 200 examples.

OPEN: This watch’s pushbutton-activated DD88 striker module is part of the perlage-decorated movement that is partially exposed through the open dial and the sapphire crystal caseback.

E X A M P L E

ROUND NOTES

The Perrelet Limited Edition Five Minute Repeater in steel sounds a single tone to mark each hour and a double tone for each five-minute interval between the hours. $16,000, 888.596.9483, perrelet.com

THEMATIC: Decorative elements evoking the world of music adorn the lacquer dial, which is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

POWERFUL: The mechanical movement, Caliber P-201, winds automatically and powers hour, minutes and seconds functions in addition to the repeater.

LIMITED: Only 50 pieces will be produced.

Each is protected by a three-year warranty.

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CAT H ED R A L CH I M ES These watches are fitted with longer coils, each of which circles the circumference of the movement one and a half times or twice. The result is a much richer, longer-lasting chime.

E X A M P L E

CLOCKWORK CRESCENDO

MELODIOUS: The gongs, which encircle the movement one and a half times, are attached to the inside of the case, improving sound transmission through the case and producing outstanding volume and clarity.

SAFEGUARDED: Actuation of the repeater disconnects the mechanism from the crown. This innovation eliminates the risk of damage to the mechanism if the crown is manipulated, so setting the watch is no longer hazardous.

Photos By John B. Holbrook, II

At the pinnacle of Blancpain’s range is the Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus, combining a one-minute flying carousel regulator and cathedral gong minute repeater in a wristwatch. $359,700, 877.520.1735, blancpain.com

FEATURES: Caliber R27Q also offers a perpetual calendar, moon phases, day/night indication and automatic winding. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal casebacks allow the owner to display the movement—or not.

OPERATION: The striking mechanism, with dual cathedral gongs, is activated by a slide on the side of the 42-mm rose gold case.

E X A M P L E

VARIATION ON A THEME

Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5074R is a new version of the earlier Ref. 5074 that is acclaimed for the pure, reverberant sound of its cathedral chimes. Price upon request. 212.218.1240, patek.com

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E X A M P L E

DRAMATIC ORCHESTRATION

OPERATIC: The Westminster carillon sounds a different sequence for each quarter as the hand-carved figures of saber-wielding warriors play out their individual stories in turn.

Ulysse Nardin brings the intricacy of animated Jaquemarts figures together with a tourbillon regulator and Westminster carillon minute repeater in the platinum Genghis Khan timepiece. Price upon request. 561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com

W EST M I N ST ER CH IM ES This is a four-hammer, four-gong repeater that plays the Westminster chimes on demand. The Westminster chimes were originally called “Cambridge Chimes” when they first appeared in 1793 at St. Mary’s Church, Cambridge. Based on four notes from Handel’s “Messiah,” the tune was written by Rev. Dr. Joseph Jowett and Dr. John Randall, working with undergraduate William Crotch. Later, it was adopted for the great clock Big Ben at the Palace of Westminster. The chimes are and were known locally in Cambridge as “Jowett’s Jig.”

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E X A M P L E

MASTER COMPOSITION

Westminster carillon, grande and petite sonnerie and alarm are only some of 33 complications with which Patek Philippe endowed its remarkable Caliber 89. Only four exist. An example sold for CHF 5.12 million at auction in 2009.

212.218.1240, patek.com

COMMEMORATIVE: Launched in 1989 to mark the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe—and in development for nine years previous—this watch is among the most complicated ever produced.

E X A M P L E

PERFECT PITCH

The Westminster chimes of the Opera Two

by Girard-Perregaux sound their melody on four gongs. $575,000, 877.846.3447, girard-perregaux.com

DISPLAYED: Striking hammers marked with their corresponding notes are visible through an opening on the left side of the dial.

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E X A M P L E

VIRTUOSO PERFORMANCE

INVENTIVE: The repeater features an original centripetal mechanism that governs the striking of the gongs and operates silently so that no noise interferes with the clarity of the chime.

Vacheron Constantin combines a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and minute repeater in its Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755. $639,000, 877.862.7555, vacheron-constantin.com

M I N U T E R EP EAT ER A minute repeater typically strikes the hour, quarter hour and minutes on demand, activated by a pushpiece or a slide. Often the hours are signaled by a low tone, the quarters are signaled by a sequence of two tones—one high and one low (“bing-bong”)—and the minutes by a high tone. For example, if the time is 2:49, then the minute repeater will sound two low tones representing two hours, three two-tone sequences representing 45 minutes, and four high tones representing four minutes: “bong, bong, bing-bong, bing-bong, bing-bong, bing, bing, bing, bing.”

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E X A M P L E

COMPLICATIONS IN CONCERT

EXQUISITE: The 18-karat rose gold case with finely fluted caseband holds a silvered, 18-karat gold engine-turned dial.

Breguet’s Classique Grande Complication Minute-repeater and Perpetual Calendar presents a mechanical duet of minute repeater and perpetual calendar with phases of the moon indication. $284,500, 866.458.7488, breguet.com

FINISHED: Manual winding Caliber 567RMP1, adjusted in six positions, is entirely engraved by hand, and each is numbered and signed with the maker’s name.

E X A M P L E

LIGHT MELODY

SVELTE: The chimes reverberate from a stainless steel case that is 40 mm in diameter and 8.65 mm thick. The whole, including leather strap, weighs 67 grams.

F.P. Journe employs space-saving strategies to create the Repetition Souveraine, an ultra-flat and extremely light minute repeater. $158,400, 561.750.2310, fpjourne.com

EFFICIENT: The patented mechanism sounds the hours, quarters and minutes on flat gongs mounted under the dial. The results are a strong, crystal-clear tone and a thin, 4-mm movement.

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E X A M P L E

A SEAFARER'S LEITMOTIF

IWC’s Portuguese collection celebrates seafarers, and at the top of the range is the Portuguese Grande Complication with minute repeater, chronograph, perpetual calendar, phases of the moon and hacking small seconds. $217,000, 800.432.9330, iwc.ch

TOPICAL: The 45-mm rose gold case is waterresistant to 30 meters; an engraving of a sextant on the caseback and the globe motif of the dial center identify this watch as part of the Portuguese family.

E X A M P L E

TONAL MODULATION

DARING: Cleverly and delightfully brought to life with animated figures called Jaquemarts, the jungle scene features a lion that stretches its paw toward a swinging monkey and a crocodile that catches a fish.

Vivid color enhances crystalline sound in the Safari Jaquemarts Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin as cloisonnĂŠ enamel art decorates the dial of the 42-mm rose gold watch. Price upon request.

561.988.8600, ulysse-nardin.com

G R A N D E S O N N ER IE | P ETITE SONNER IE The grande sonnerie automatically strikes both the hours and quarters at each quarter, and repeats the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. The petite sonnerie, by contrast, automatically sounds the hours and the quarters without repeating the hours at every quarter. Either of these mechanisms can be silenced using an “all or nothing” or “silent” slide or pushpiece. Often, both grande and petite sonnerie functions are combined, with a setting to select one or the other—that is, a small strike, which chimes the hours in passing, or a grand strike, which chimes the hours and quarters in passing.

E X A M P L E

CONCERT DRESS

An automatic strike complication meets feminine styling in Breguet’s Reine de Naples Sonnerie au Passage. $139,800, 866.458.7488, breguet.com

ARTFUL: The bridges and rotor of the self-winding, oval Caliber 78SO are shaped and decorated to form the image of a dove in flight, which can be admired through the exhibition caseback.

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EXHIBITED: The watch’s striking mechanism, with hammers visible through apertures in the mother-of-pearl dial, chimes every hour on the hour with two tones repeated three times. The automatic function may be deactivated via a pushpiece at 2.

ESSENTIAL GEAR.

Invented in the United States. Made in Switzerland.

Colormark Chronograph No. 3097: 44mm, carbon reinforced polymer injection molded case, carbon reinforced case back, tempered scratch resistant mineral crystal, water resistant to 200 meters, signature black PU strap, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of outdoor enthusiasts. Luminox.com Available At These Fine Retailers NATIONWIDE Bass Pro | Cabela’s | Orvis | Precision Time | Tourneau Watch Gear | ALABAMA Mark’s Outdoor Sports, Birmingham | Woods & Water, Tuscaloosa | ARIZONA Ganem Jewelers, Phoenix | Scottsdale Fine Jewelers, Scottsdale | ARKANSAS Mack's Prairie Wings, Stutgart | CALIFORNIA Total Time, Arcadia | Timepiece Network, Burbank | Julianna’s Fine Jewelry, Corte Madera | Time Zone, Costa Mesa | Ara Karkazian Jewelers, Fresno | Time Center, Huntington Beach | Feldmar Watch, Los Angeles | Boutique du Temps, Pasadena | Pasadena Watch Co, Pasadena | Tic Time, Redondo Beach | Prime Time UTC, San Diego | Ravits, San Francisco | Gene Hiller Menswear, Sausalito | Vana Watch, South Pasadena | Time Spot, Thousand Oaks | Watch City, Torrance | Valencia Time Center, Valencia | One More Time, Ventura | FLORIDA Bere Jewelers, Gulf Breeze | Ferguson Jewelers, Homestead | Shooters Firearms, Jacksonville | London Watch Co., Miami | Peoples Jewelers, Miami | Watches Plus, Orange Park | Jay’s Watches, Orlando | Orlando Watch Company, Winter Park | GEORGIA It’s About Time Stores, Atlanta | Worthmore Jewelers, Atlanta | Armen & Joseph Jewelers, Duluth | D. Geller & Son, Smyrna | Steel’s Jewelry, Valdosta | HAWAII A&E Creations, Honolulu | Kupulau, Honolulu | ILLINOIS Chicago Clock Company, Chicago | Howard Frum Jewelers, Chicago | Mari Lou's Fine Jewelers, Orland Park | INDIANA G Thrapp Jewelers, Indianapolis | Ashcraft Jewelers, Munci | Albert's Jewelers, Schererville | IOWA Herteen & Stocker, Iowa City | KANSAS Randy Cooper, Wichita | LOUISIANA Bowie Outfitters, Baton Rouge | Coleman Adler, New Orleans | MAINE Kittery Trading Post, Kittery | MARYLAND Little Treasury, Gambrillis | Atlantic Guns, Rockville | MICHIGAN Thomas A Davis, Holland | MISSISSIPPI Sollberger Watches, Ridgeland | NEW JERSEY Campmor, Paramus | Ramsey Outdoor, Ramsey | Orilogio, Short Hills | Orogio, Tenafly | NEW MEXICO Shelton Jewelers, Albuquerque | NEW YORK F&J Uniforms, Bronx | Mohawk Army Navy, Schenechtedy | Iceberg, New York | Las Americas, New York | Tent n Trails, New York | United Uniforms, Rochester | Woodrow Jewelers, Rye | NORTH CAROLINA Sharon Luggage, Charlotte | OHIO Gino's Jewelers, Cleveland | Ricky Tanno, Cleveland | OREGON Klondike Gold Jewelers, Portland | PENNSYLVANIA The Fire Store, Coatsville | Tanner's Sports, Jamison | Jems Jewels & Gold, North Whales | WhiteHall Army Navy, Whitehall | RHODE ISLAND Saltzman's Watches and More, Cranston | Watches Etc., Middletown | SOUTH CAROLINA Grady's Great Outdoors, Anderson | TEXAS Throckmortons Watch, Austin | Mon Cadeau, Dallas | Watches Etc., Grapevine | Cristianis Jewelers, Midland | Charles Gurinsky’s, San Antonio | VIRGINIA Belle View Jewelers, Alexandria | WASHINGTON Swissa Jewelers, Seattle | WISCONSIN The Watch Company, Appleton | THE CARIBBEAN John Bull Ltd., Nassau, BS | Island Companies, Grand Cayman, BWI | Baci Duty Free, St. Croix, USVI | Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas, USVI

Q UA RT ER | H A LF- Q UA RTER R EP EATER Invented in the early 18th century, it strikes the quarter hour and the half-quarter hour on demand.

The quarter repeater strikes on two notes—one high and one low. The half-quarter repeater strikes a high tone to signal when an intervening half-quarter has passed.

E X A M P L E

QUARTER NOTES

AUTOMATIC: Chronoswiss’ manufacture caliber C.126 features automatic winding.

The Répétition à Quarts by Chronoswiss signals the time on demand by striking the hours and the quarter hours on two gongs. $26,600, 609.375.2146, ch-na.com

PRECIOUS: The 25-part, 40-mm, 18-karat rose gold case with onion crown holds a sterling silver dial and sapphire crystals front and back. Time is indicated by blued and skeletonized Breguet Conique hands.

SEALED: The large pushbutton on the left caseside activates the striking mechanism without compromising the watch's water-resistance rating of 30 meters.

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VALUE STATEMENT PANERAI EXPANDS ITS FAMILY OF PROPRIETARY MOVEMENTS

I

{ CA LI BE R P.9 9 9 }

t’s difficult not to be impressed by Officine Panerai. When the historic Italian brand relaunched in 1998 as part of the Richemont Group, Panerai was all about design. Panerai had a signature look, linked to vintage military dive instruments, and it seemed as if everybody wanted one of the new limited-edition sensations. Inside, those watches used off-the-shelf movements, as did so many other brands in the watch industry.

Panerai probably could have maintained its popularity simply by continuing to introduce variations on the Panerai theme and playing out the trends. Nobody would have complained. To the brand’s credit, however, this is not what Panerai has chosen to do. Instead, CEO Angelo Bonati, perhaps with a crystal ball aimed dead at the future, decided to reposition the brand as a watchmaker, focusing on creating, developing and manufacturing its own in-house movements. As part of the Richemont Group, Panerai had access to the movement specialists within the group, but Bonati was not willing just to adapt existing movements. Instead, he insisted on developing movements specific to Panerai.

B Y K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

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CASEBACK OF THE RADIOMIR ORO ROSA, REVEALING CALIBER P.999

He was clear about the desire to make the Panerai brand worthwhile on the inside as well as on the outside. As it turns out, his instinct was perfect given the direction the market has followed, with customers and collectors looking for more value and true watchmaking credentials, both of which Panerai now has in spades.

THE MOVEMENTS In 2005, Panerai introduced the P.2002, its first in-house movement. In fact, Panerai was at the forefront of a widespread migration toward in-house movements, engendered, in part, by the Swatch Group’s decision several years ago to limit delivery of movements to companies outside its own group. Years before in-house movement development was in vogue, Panerai was leading the way, the decision to develop its first movement having been made back in 2002.

This year, Panerai added to its family of inhouse movements with the P.999, the mechanical heart of sleek new Panerai models for 2010.

“The new P.999 movement was built for the 42-mm Radiomir and Luminor cases,” explains Bonati. “We are continuing to increase our number of in-house movements,” he continues. “The authenticity of the brand is linked to the interior of the watches, not just the exterior design. In this age of crisis, it’s important to have real value, not just design and style.”

Since the beginning, Panerai has avoided flaunting its in-house movements—at least in terms of their visibility in completed watches. There were no open dials, no showing off of the mechanisms, and when

THE RADIOMIR ORO ROSA WITH PATENTED WIRE LOOP STRAP ATTACHMENT

MANUAL WINDING CALIBER P.999, BUILT OF 154 COMPONENTS

“THE AUTHENTICITY OF THE BRAND IS LINKED TO THE INTERIOR OF THE WATCHES.” —ANGELO BONATI

EQUATION OF TIME The equation of time is the difference between standardized time, which marches along at a constant rate, and solar time, which varies from day to day throughout the year with the changes in Earth’s orbit and the tilt of its axis in relation to the sun. The differential can be as much as -14 or +16 minutes. The degree of difference is important in situations where both a clock and the position of the sun provide vital information, such as in navigation.

L U MIN OR 1950 EQUATION OF TIME TOU R BIL LON TITANIO 50 MM L 'AS TR ON OMO. AB OVE, VIEW OF THE P.2005 TOU RB ILLON MOVEMENT.

"IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE REAL VALUE, NOT JUST DESIGN AND STYLE."

—ANGELO BONATI

Panerai introduced its first in-house tourbillon, the P.2005, the spectacular complication wasn’t even visible from the front. It could only be seen through the case’s exhibition back.

Because Panerai watches can hardly be classified as low key, given their size and distinctive design, it was intriguing that the brand presented its in-house movements in this sober and understated manner. But, rather than blowing its own horn to the world, Panerai allowed fans of its watches to discover the new movements, which turned out to be extremely advantageous.

Word of mouth is much more effective than PR noise.

THE WATCHES Panerai has two distinctive families of watches, the Luminor and the Radiomir. The new P.999 caliber was designed expressly for new 42-mm variations in these model lines, including the Radiomir Oro Rosa (PAM 336). Smaller than the traditional Radiomir, this timepiece is thinner and more elegant; at the same time, it retains its military identity. The case is brushed rose gold with a thin, polished rose gold bezel, and the timepiece comes with patented removable wire lugs that make easy work of changing the strap. The 154-component movement has 19 jewels, a Glucydur balance, Incabloc anti-shock protection, a swan’s neck regulator and power reserve of 60 hours. The brown dial has luminous hands, numerals and hour markers. The Radiomir Oro Rosa 42mm is available in a numbered limited edition of 500 pieces worldwide.

So far, the wager that Bonati placed by developing Panerai as a manufacture has paid off. This maker’s watches are in greater demand than ever before, and its impressive program of movement development adds to the already considerable value of the Panerai brand.

RADIOMIR ORO ROSA

877.PANERAI, panerai.com

{ C AL IB ER P .9 99 }

A BRIEF HISTORY In the early 20th century, the Panerai family of Florence was a supplier of highly specialized watches and sighting instruments to the Royal Italian Navy. Patented luminescent treatments became an early hallmark of its products. By about 1940, many of the characteristics recognized as distinctively Panerai were fully formed: a large steel case, wire loop strap attachment, a wide strap, sandwich dial construction and the lever bridge crown-protection device. Today, Panerai continues to reinterpret the fine timepiece by combining iconic Italian design and exacting Swiss horology.

ANGELO BONATI

HE ART OF T STAR CH ATION 1950 EQU LUMINOR L RBI LON U O T O E M OF TI STRONOM 50 MM L’A TITANIO

{ CA LIB E R P .2 0 05 }

OBVIOUSLY COMPLICATED Panerai’s P.2005 tourbillon movement powers two of this year’s most notable releases.

The Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica 48 mm Lo Scienziato (PAM 348) breaks with the precedent set by earlier Panerai tourbillons to display the movement in spectacular style. A fine grid supports the elements of the skeletonized dial. The tourbillon mechanism of the skeletonized 277-component inhouse movement is clearly visible, suspended between the front and back sapphire crystals, at 11.

All is housed in a high-tech black ceramic case that is 48 mm in diameter.

One of the most interesting complications, and the most

RADIOMIR TOURBILLON GMT CERAMICA 48 MM LO SCIENZIATO

sophisticated timepiece produced by Panerai to date, is the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon Titanio 50 mm L’Astronomo (PAM 365), which combines a tourbillon with an equation of time function. This watch is dedicated to the famous Italian astronomer Galileo Galilei. It celebrates four centuries since the invention of the telescope and Galileo’s observations of the moons of Jupiter in 1610. Indications of sunrise and sunset times on the dial and a star chart on the back of the watch are

customizable to the owner’s location. Thus a watch for the northern hemisphere has a night sky disc that rotates in the opposite direction from a watch customized for the southern hemisphere. For any location, this astronomical function will be accurate to within 5 minutes. Only the movement of a tiny ecru disc on the small seconds subdial at 9 indicates the rotation of the tourbillon inside. At 50 mm, this watch is big, but, cased in lightweight titanium, it is also extremely comfortable on the wrist.

Only 30 examples of each of these watches will be produced.

EJECTOR

SET

BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG Rocketing out of an aircraft at 690 mph is no one’s idea of fun—except, that is, for Nick English, co-founder and co-owner (with his brother Giles) of the British watch company Bremont.

English revels in the fact that his MB collection watches, associated with Martin-Baker Aircraft Company, the world’s leading ejector seat company, are put through hell.

An accomplished pilot himself, English was well aware of MartinBaker, a major supplier to military forces in the Western World, and, when representatives of that company approached Bremont about making an exclusive watch for its Ejector Tie Club, he jumped at the chance. The club has an extreme initiation requirement—members must have ejected in a MartinBaker seat in order to join the ranks. Since 1949, more than 7,280 people have become part of this exclusive “ejector set,” having ejected in flight using a Martin-Baker seat. Because these pilots only eject in emergency situations, the manufacturer characterizes the bailouts as 7,000-plus lives saved, which is no small thing. And, not content with offering only the traditional necktie as a symbol of these users’ hard-earned status, Martin-Baker sought to develop a watch available only to members of the club.

“Martin-Baker approached us, and we got on really, really well,” English recalls. “They have been a family business since the 1920s, and they love

MB1 Swiss-made BE-36A automatic chronometer movement Trip-Tick case design with inner rotating bezel Aluminum Trip-Tick case barrel Water resistant to 100 meters Anti-magnetic Faraday cage Patented anti-shock movement mount Super-LumiNova dial Sapphire crystal with nine layers of anti-reflective coating 43-mm case diameter Leather or NATO canvas strap

A PAIR OF BRITISH BROTHERS HELPS PILOTS CELEBRATE BAILING OUT

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what we are doing, and they love that we are British. The idea was to produce a watch that, if you have ejected, you have earned the right to buy.”

Martin-Baker has an area outside London where it tests ejector seats. When English toured the facility, his head began spinning with ideas, as he considered the challenges of designing a watch that would survive all the extremes that the ejector seats withstand. “It’s a great place to walk around,” English says. “Explosions are going off all the time. This company makes ejector seats for more than 70 percent of the jet aircraft in use today, so if you are sitting in an F-16 or F-18, you are most likely in a MartinBaker seat.”

“The watch they wanted to produce had to be quite unique,” English continues.

“It had to go through all the tests that the ejector seat had to go through—vibration tests, shock tests, climate tests, temperature extremes, saltwater tests and more.”

Quickly, Bremont set to work on the MB1.

It took two years of designing, prototyping and experimentation to make a watch that could withstand all the stresses of ejection.

In the first trials, the watches were shaken apart by the vibration tests, the crystals popped out at -40˚ Celsius (the approximate temperature at 100,000 feet) and more. “We had to redesign the way the watch worked,” English admits. “We have a whole new technology in the case, where the movement is suspended in a rubber mount. I am sure that

STAGES OF EJECTION 0.3 0.1 SECONDS

SECONDS

catapult phase 12–15 G

rocket motor phase 12–15 G

Nick and Giles English

this has got to be one of the most tested watches in the world.”

According to English, back in the 1940s and ’50s, Martin-Baker used human subjects in the tests, but, now, crash test dummies are the only ones going for these rides.

For the past two years, every seat Martin-Baker has tested has had a Bremont watch strapped to it. Today, the MB1 passes with flying colors— even enduring the test that requires that the watch accelerate from 0 to 690 mph and then return to zero in seven seconds.

Looking at a test watch, it’s impossible to tell that it’s been through hell and back, and that’s precisely the point. “We wanted to design a watch that is classic, easy to read, iconic, with a simple face and a clear display,” English says. “We have an inner turning bezel with ball bearings, so it feels very nice. I love the durability and the readability of the Martin-Baker watch. It’s a really nice tool to use in the cockpit. As a pilot

and a guy who is into guy things, like bikes and planes, I see it as a tool watch, really.

It’s got everything, and if you want to buy only one watch, this is the watch to buy.”

The MB1 watch is available only to ejectees, and each watch will be engraved with the individual’s ejection number, but a second unengraved version featuring the same technology and called the MB2 is offered to the general public. In addition, the anti-shock movement mount technology developed in testing has been built into Bremont’s Supermarine dive watches. As with all Bremont timepieces, however, annual production is limited.

Bremont watches are simple, straightforward and attractive. Because the brothers English are both pilots, it’s important to them that the watches are easy to read, which makes them immediately iconic.

They aren’t for everyone, but for those who want a watch that has been put through incredible torture tests and has a unique, classic look, this just might be the thing. bremont.com, martin-baker.com

0.6

0.8

stabilization phase 30 G

parachute deployment 15 G

SECONDS

SECONDS

David Gerald Fine Timepieces - Chapel Hill, NC (919) 370-4243 Exquisite Timepieces - Naples, FL (239) 262-4545 Grenon’s of Newport - Newport, RI (401) 846-0598 Horologio - Las Vegas, NV (702) 733-0016 Kenjo - New York, NY (212) 333-7220 Markham Fine Jewelers - Frisco, TX (214) 705-9913

Martin Pulli - Philadelphia, PA (215) 508-4610 Orlando Watch Company - Winter Park, FL (407) 975-9137 Partita Custom Design Jewelry - San Francisco, CA (415) 447-0795 R. Kury - San Juan, PR (787) 977-4873 Right Time - Denver, CO (303) 757-2245 Time & Gold - Vancouver, BC (604) 682-4487

For Authorized Dealers, Please Call Coast Time 1-888-609-1010

info@coasttime.com

www.azimuthwatch.com

H E R M ÈS P R ES E N TS A WATC H W I T H A T W I N K L E I N T H E E Y E by b e r n I e L I b s t e r

“Slow down, you move too fast.

You’ve got to make the morning last.”

— PAUL SI MON

I

wasn’t expecting a philosophical discussion when I recently met Luc Perramond, CeO of La montre Hermès—the timepieces division of the French luxury leather and fashion brand—and robert Peterman, the brand’s Us vice president of fine timepieces, at the new york office of Hermès, that bastion of tradition and style. nor did I think of connecting upscale watches, dance and a 1960s simon and Garfunkel hit.

How shortsighted of me! the watch that triggered these associations is the Cape Cod Grand Hours, a collaboration between Hermès and respected swiss watchmaker Vaucher manufacture Fleurier. the Grand Hours is almost certain to strike a chord with anyone who ever tried to make a moment last or a dragging hour speed up. Although at first glance it’s identical to the elegant Cape Cod introduced in 1991, a closer look at the dial tells a different story. the hours are arranged asymmetrically so that, for example, there’s more space between the 12 and the 2 (called “tempo adagio” or slow time) and 6 and 8, less space between the 2 and the 6, the 10 and the 12 (called “tempo accelerando” or sped-up time). the promotional brochure that was handed to me is too elegant for adjectives like simon's “groovy.” Instead, it speaks of “dance (that other great art of pacing and rhythm)” and “a new choreography of time…hours [that] have broken free of their staid circle…some cluster in a chorus line, while others stretch languorously into space.”

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Cape Cod Grand Hours in white gold

Cape Cod Grand Hours in rose gold

See the Hermès Grand Hours in action on your iPhone.

Search for Hermès Grandes Heures in the App Store.

Ripe prose aside, the Grand Hours keeps the same impeccable time you’d expect of any fine watch. The secret is a system of oval wheels that makes it possible to vary the movement of the hour hand while the minutes and seconds tick by at an even pace.

This feature is part of the self-winding movement with a new additional module, packed inside the elegant Cape Cod case, so its timemanipulating powers are a secret between you and the watch—unless you decide to share the secret, and you’ll definitely want to. The Grand Hours is still in development. When launched, it is likely to come in a choice of steel or gold and in several time variations to fit your mood, your work schedule or the day of the week.

If you prefer a more conventional relationship with time, Hermès will be offering several new versions of the Clipper, including a handsome mechanical chronograph, the Arceau Skeleton (“a connoisseur’s watch,” Peterman calls it), and the H-Hour Bougainvillea, with its bougainvillea-pink wraparound strap of Mysore goatskin.

Actually, as much as I adore the Grand Hours for its philosophical drollery, as a pocket-watch devotee, my personal favorite among the new watches is the Arceau Pocket Duc Attelé with a dial that includes an image of a horseman and his mount—the equestrian theme reflects Hermès’ origins as a saddle maker—engraved in natural mother-of-pearl and resting upon a polished stone of more than 225-million-year-old petrified wood. The sculpture takes 10 hours to create, and the complete watch represents 1,100 hours of labor. Needless to say, the detail work is impressive. And, yet, what dazzled me

Boule Spiral

Arceau Pocket Duc Attelé

most when I held this one-of-a-kind white gold pocket watch was the leather cord, which speaks volumes about Hermès and its 173-year reputation for leather.

The Arceau Pocket Duc Attelé is one of two new ultra-exclusive timepieces Hermès has introduced recently. The other is the Boule Spiral, a globe-shaped, platinum-dialed mechanical clock that’s wound by twisting its two hemispheres. Only two exist, each created by a different artist who was given carte blanche in designing the dial. One was sold last year in China for 500,000 Swiss francs. The other is found in the recently opened Hermès Man on Madison boutique in New York, and I was actually allowed to hold it in my hands—without incident—by a trusting, possibly foolhardy, salesman.

What motivates Hermès to create such singular timepieces? “We are a

little crazy at Hermès,” Perramond confides with pride and amusement. “We do things that are unexpected.

We’re focused on luxury but don’t take ourselves too seriously. We indulge in fantasy. We take pleasure in being different.

Hermès is very much about a twinkle in the eye.”

When I raised an eyebrow, Perramond referred me to the Hermès website, which bears out his words. Among the tidbits: the family name really is Hermès, after the god of merchants and travelers on Mount Olympus. Also, the store locator uses a world map complete with gauchos, windmills, elephants and mermaids, plus the requisite Eiffel Tower—undeniably twinkly.

In the US, Hermès timepieces are available through the brand’s authorized retailers and, of course, at the Hermès flagship store and the new Hermès Man on Madison boutique in New York, where, if you ask nicely, you might be allowed to hold the Boule.

800.441.4488, hermes.com

Luc Perramond, CEO of La Montre Hermès

The Evolution of a Legend...

2010

Equipped with dual mainspring barrels, silicon escapement, split rattrapante, and time zone calculator, the 2010 Gallet Flight Officer chronograph is the most advanced pilot’s watch of the 21st century.

World’s 1st release of this groundbreaking version as a direct benefit for America’s National Watch and Clock Museum. Limited series of only 250 in stainless, 250 in 18K yellow gold, 250 in 18K white gold, 250 in 18K red gold, 50 in 950 platinum. Each individually signed and numbered. Available direct from Gallet with prices ranging from $18,500 to $89,700 USD. www.GalletWatch.com

info@galletwatch.com

The 2010 Museum Edition Flight Officer Chronograph. Ø 42mm. 12 hour recording chronograph w/split rattrapante. rotating 24 cities dial w/multiple time zone calculator. Gallet manufactured 51 jewel calibre.

Duo-Force double barrel automatic winding system. silicon escapement. C.O.S.C. certified chronometer accuracy across all functions. two sapphire crystals.

USA & Canada: 888-9-GALLET (425538)

International: +813-712-49-66

REINVENTING

THE WHEEL

THIS YEAR, AMIDST GREAT FANFARE, MAURICE LACROIX REINVENTED THE WHEEL, USING A SQUARE WHEEL FOR THE FIRST TIME IN THE HISTORY OF WATCHMAKING. Why a square wheel?

What’s wrong with the traditional round one? Nothing, says Sandro Reginelli, product director for Maurice Lacroix. “This project was more about showing that it could be done,” he says. “And we succeeded.”

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MAURICE LACROIX

SURPRISES THE WATCH WORLD WITH AN ULTRA-HIP

SQUARE

TIME SQUARED Matte finishes alternating with polished ones emphasize the design of the 43-mm Masterpiece Régulateur Roue Carrée in steel. Its ML 153 manufacture movement has an anthracite linear satin finish and is visible from the front and through the back of the case, which has antireflective sapphire crystals on both sides. Functions include central minutes, small seconds and power reserve indication. Each piece in the numbered limited edition of 99 watches is offered at $12,800.

By definition, the gear profiles for noncircular wheels cannot be regular. They must be shaped to mesh perfectly as the wheels interact—one side of the square corresponding to one leaflet of the trefoil cloverleaf. Reginelli explains, “Because the angles of the teeth change from one section of the wheel to the next on both the cloverleaf and the square wheel, the shapes of the teeth must be extremely precise. Five years ago, the production capability didn’t exist to make the parts as small and precise as necessary to make this happen, but, now, with LiGA fabrication technology being applied to watchmaking, it does.”

A major challenge lay in determining the exact shapes of the teeth for optimal and steady power transmission. Technical director michel Vermot of maurice Lacroix’s movement Development Department spearheaded work on the square wheel.

“THE SQUARE WHEEL OPENS THE AESTHETIC GATES FOR US.” —Sandro Reginelli

He collaborated with engineering school Haute Ecole Arc Ingénerie in Le Locle on the necessary calculations and simulations.

Once it became clear that the square wheel was possible, making it an integral part of timekeeping became the maker’s next priority. So, in the watch maurice Lacroix introduced at Baselworld 2010, the masterpiece Régulateur Roue Carrée, the square wheel indicates the hours, driven by the motion of a cloverleaf gear. “Once we knew it was possible, I decided not to put any dial on the watch,” explains Reginelli, who was responsible for the look of the finished piece. “The face of the watch is the movement plate, and we are simply showing the machinations of the hour indication,

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with the cloverleaf driving the square wheel.

“If we can do a square wheel, we can do other shapes interacting together. It could be, theoretically, that we could increase the precision of a watch with different shapes.

The goal in any watch is to achieve constant energy transmission, no matter the state of wind of the spring. Interacting different shapes may result in a way to transfer the energy in a more constant way.”

For now, the square wheel has caught the industry by surprise, even though, as a concept, the idea has existed for quite some time. Reginelli says, “It’s not something that people expect. They think that what is turning has to be round. When I first saw it, I was like a kid—in awe.”

Will there be additional square wheel watches in the future? It’s too early to say, Reginelli explains. “We are a small brand producing innovations—there are no big or small innovations, there are just innovations.

We found this project really interesting, and, out of this first idea, there are other innovations that will follow. We are not saying that maurice Lacroix should be known as the ‘square wheel’ brand. We are pleased to be the first brand to have done it, but it’s a highlight, not the brand’s platform.”

For the moment, at least, maurice Lacroix has proven itself hip enough to be square.

800.794.7736, mauricelacroix.com

PROJECT

DRIVEN

HARRY WINSTON TIMEPIECES EXPLORE CREATIVE EXTREMES WITH AUDACITY

Although a quintessentially American company based in New York City since 1932, Harry Winston also has a Swiss component, a state-of-the-art facility opened in November 2007 in Geneva, adjacent to the likes of Piaget and Vacheron Constantin and just down the road from Patek Philippe. “The Geneva facility is fantastic,” says de Narp.

“It embodies the modernity of the brand and is set to develop the brand in watchmaking. It sets the tone and says that Harry Winston is positioned to be stronger in the watch world. This manufacture only produces a few thousand watches right now, but we can produce many more.

We will keep the most exclusive distribution, and we will expand the brand into more countries.”

Is exclusivity compatible with expansion? De Narp thinks so. “We have one of the most exclusive distribution networks in the watch world,” he continues. “And we want to keep it very exclusive— our rare pieces will only be in the most exclusive spaces— but there is an enormous potential for growth.”

BY

K E I T H

W.

S T R A N D B E R G

CELEBRATED JEWELER TO THE STARS HARRY WINSTON IS FAMOUSLY ASSOCIATED WITH RED CARPETS, DIAMONDS AND MORE DIAMONDS, BUT IF NEW PRESIDENT AND CEO FRÉDÉRIC DE NARP GETS HIS WAY, HARRY WINSTON WILL BE KNOWN JUST AS WELL FOR ITS WATCHES.

FRÉDÉRIC DE NARP Harry Winston President and CEO

HARRY WINSTON SALON, NEW YORK CITY

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“WE SEE PEOPLE COMING TO THE BRAND FOR AUTHENTICITY, LEGITIMACY AND AUDACITY IN DESIGN AND MOVEMENTS.”

HARRY WINSTON’S OPUS X

Frédéric de Narp

Designed partly in the US and partly in Switzerland, and then manufactured in Harry Winston’s facility, drawing on an array of Swiss specialist suppliers, the company’s timepieces offer a distinct aesthetic, unlike that of any other company.

Embodying a clearly American spirit but realized by the Swiss, the designs are matchless, and the production quality and finishing is impeccable.

In addition, Harry Winston, for the past 10 years, has been dedicated to challenging the boundaries of watchmaking. From exquisite diamond jewels that tell time to the Project Z series, crafted from an aeronautical alloy, design and imagination are the hallmarks of Harry Winston timepieces.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the Opus project.

Each year, Harry Winston collaborates with a cutting-edge watchmaker to design a groundbreaking limited edition watch in its Opus series. Since 2001, the jeweler has collaborated with a who’s who of revered independent watchmakers,

including François-Paul Journe, Felix Baumgartner, Christophe Claret, Antoine Preziuso, Vianney Halter, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, and, for 2010, the Opus X was designed in collaboration with watchmaker Jean-François Mojon.

“The Opus project embodies innovation and audacity,” says de Narp. “This is the 10th year of Opus, and, each year, we get the chance to work with the best watchmakers in the industry, partner with the best people, reconcile different points of view and work together, which is a concept unique to Harry Winston.”

“The Opus stimulates creativity throughout the entire company,” de Narp continues. “Every employee follows the project, and it fuels everyone’s passion. The Opus program is demanding, but it helps the company tremendously. We are proud to say we are working with the world’s finest watchmakers.”

Mojon, who has headed his own company, Chronode SA, since 2005, values the experience of working on Opus X very highly. No stranger to Harry Winston, he previously worked on the creation of the Harry Winston Lady Z watch. He brought the idea for the watch that would become the Opus X to Harry Winston in 2008. “I really enjoy working with the people at Harry Winston, because they know the watch industry, and they have confidence in our work. We work together on the project concept, and the rest is our responsibility, and th is is a very good way to do it,” Mojon explains. His creation displays time via a system of rotating indicators mounted on a revolving frame.

Will the Opus project continue? “Definitely,” says de Narp. In addition, the timepiece division of this world-famous jeweler will continue to design and manufacture distinctive watches. At the same time, it will continue to master key parts of the watch production process and bring them in house. The goal is not to bring every function, from A to Z, into the factory; instead, it is to bring the most important and critical aspects of watchmaking under the Harry Winston umbrella.

“We see people coming to the brand for authenticity, legitimacy and audacity in design and movements,” says de Narp. “They are coming here for the innovation as well.

Our watches have a specific identity that is Harry Winston, and people like the designs and the character.”

800.988.4110, harry-winston.com JEAN-FRANÇOIS MOJON watchmaker

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OFFICI A L D I STR I B UT O R IN FIN IT Y T IM E G RO U P 305 573 4476 - INFO@INFINIT YT IM E GROU P.C OM - WWW.U-BOATWATCH.COM

Mysteries of the far east

d is co v er ing wat ches prod u ced in pairs for the chinese market at the patek philippe museum In the 1700s and 1800s, one of the biggest markets for fine timepieces was China. The products were pocket watches, and the Chinese bought them in pairs—sometimes two identical watches, and sometimes two watches with “mirror -image” designs. Conventional thought was that the Chinese bought these “pair watches” so that there would be spare parts available if the primary watch needed repair, but an exhibit called “ The Mirror of Seduction,” at the Patek Philippe Museum, questions this assumption.

by keit h w. strandber g

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“Sentimental Duel,� a pair of enameled clockwork pistols mounted with clocks, Geneva, ca. 1805

THE EXHIBITION The incredible exhibit of Chinese pair watches includes more than 100 objects made expressly for the Chinese market from the mid-18th century through the mid19th century, including 40 matched pairs of watches and some automata. Despite the venue, there isn’t a single Patek Philippe watch in this exhibition. Instead there is a mix of famous and obscure makers, names like Bovet, Vaucher, Juvet, Piguet & meylan, John Rich, Ilbery and others. This exhibition has been a goal of the museum since it opened in 2001. It was ultimately made possible this year with the support of public museums, private foundations and collectors who generously loaned pieces from their collections.

THE HISTORY Geneva’s watchmakers were not only skilled in horology; they were also on the cutting edge of marketing. As an example, nearly every watchmaking enterprise in the little

mirror-image watches in the form of peaches, london and geneva, ca. 1810

Swiss town of Fleurier had its brand name translated into Chinese characters on the dials of the watches made for export to the East.

The first watches arrived in China around 1700. One of the first Swiss watchmakers to export watches, clocks and automata to China was Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his son Henri-Louis. many of their products found their way into the collection of the Imperial Palace in Beijing. Early on, many Swiss companies did business with the Chinese through English firms that had established a trading presence in the middle Kingdom. Eventually, the Swiss set up their own offices, but it wasn’t long before the First Opium War shut the gates of China.

THE BEAUTY The pair watches and other timepieces on display showcase the high level of watchmaking found in Switzerland during this period. There is incredible lacquer work, enameling, enamel painting, automata and more. Some will find it surprising that the decorative themes of the watches are not Chinese, rather they are typical of the French Louis XV, Louis XVI, Directoire and Empire styles preferred by the Chinese. The musical movements play well known European tunes and, sometimes, Swiss folk songs.

The attention to detail is incredible, and the watches are extremely well preserved. One portion of the exhibit is dedicated to movements, and what is on display is stunning. The precision achieved without the aid of CNC machines, CAD-CAm technology or any of the modern tools watch producers now take for granted is amazing.

Of course, today, China is once again a major market for fine timepieces, the market

“ the

perfume bottles with clocks, london, ca. 1775

that watch companies most want to serve. It seems that the Chinese appetite for fine watches hasn’t changed much in 300 years.

This exhibition is a testament to its strength.

So, what of the pair watches’ reason for being? Were these exquisitely decorated duplicates produced only so that they could be dismantled for spare parts? According to the curators, demand for pair watches was more likely fueled by the Chinese tradition of offering gifts in pairs—most even numbers being considered lucky and highly preferred over odd numbers. This custom was good luck for the Swiss as well. After all, what watchmaker wouldn’t consider himself lucky when demand doubles production?

212.218.1240, patekmuseum.com

mirror of seduction”

runs through october 16 at the patek philippe museum in geneva and online at patekmuseum.com.

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WAT C H J O U R N A L P R E S E N T S

STORIES ABOUT TIME WRITTEN BY PAULO COELHO AND ILLUSTRATED BY ENKI BILAL FOR IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN SERIALIZED BY WATCH JOURNAL F R O M “ T H E I WC B O O K ”

AGAINST ALL ODDS FOR FLORENTINE ARIOSTO JONES

Two men and a woman had just come out of the train station, followed by a number of what appeared to be employees (he couldn’t say how many) as well as a large number of suitcases and wooden crates. Joseph found it very odd that people should travel with so much baggage. Were they planning to set up house there? He had heard rumors that one of the city’s most prominent businessmen was in negotiation with the Americans; however, like any decent Swiss citizen, he never sought to know more than people chose to tell him.

He continued his morning stroll along the banks of the Rhine. As he walked, he was pleased to see that Schaffhausen was making up for lost time. While the other cities around had grown rapidly with the introduction of electricity, only now had an industrial visionary, Johann Heinrich Moser, managed to overcome the critics, the political squabbles and the technical difficulties to build a hydroelectric plant there. Everyone’s greatest fear—mass unemployment—had proved entirely unfounded: Schaffhausen was growing fast. Joseph walked for nearly an hour before returning to his small workshop.

He came from a family of watchmakers and had learned the trade from his father, who in turn had learned it from his grandfather, and so on back through several generations. One of his ancestors had helped make the clock in the Fronwag Tower, which measured the hours and the equinoxes—human time and planetary time.

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He passed by the tower, glanced up at it and felt proud that a member of his family had helped put together such a complex, sophisticated mechanism.

Each morning the sight of the clock filled him with enthusiasm, and he always went into his workshop with a smile on his face before setting to work fixing wall clocks and wristwatches. His work may not have been as demanding as that of his ancestor, but at least he was keeping up the tradition. He could teach the trade to his 10-year-old son, who spent much of the afternoon fiddling with discarded cogwheels and observing his father’s work with curiosity. Besides, with the arrival of industry and electricity, there might be innovations even in the world of clocks.

Of course, this wouldn’t happen in his lifetime, but time moves on, and there would always be new opportunities.

Time moves on: Joseph worked with time, and he knew what he was talking about.

Two weeks passed, and Joseph had entirely forgotten the scene at the train station when someone knocked at his door. He opened it and immediately recognized one of the men who had arrived along with all that baggage.

“Are you Mr. Bahl?”

“I am.”

The new arrival came in without being invited, looking around the workshop with the air of someone who knew the craft of watchmaking intimately.

“Do you have a clock for me to fix?”

“No, on the contrary! Forgive me, please, for barging in like this, without so much as a by-yourleave, but I really love this city and its inhabitants. My name is Kidder, and I’ve just arrived from Boston with my colleague, Florentine Ariosto Jones.”

“I hope you like it here. It’s a small place, but very hospitable.

And there are various tourist sights, which I’m sure you’ll enjoy,” replied Joseph.

“Thank you, but we’re not here as tourists. We brought some machines with us in our luggage.”

Machines? Joseph’s heart began to pound, but he tried to remain calm. Machines meant unemployment.

“But I didn’t come here to discuss our luggage,” the American went on. “We know that you’re a watchmaker, and we’d like you to come and work with us in our factory…”

Factory? “…our watch factory,” said the American, finishing his sentence.

Joseph took a deep breath before replying, doing his best to keep his voice from shaking.

“I don’t wish to appear disrespectful, but have you come all this way just to ask me that?”

“Yes, we want to produce fob watches, first for the United States market and then for the rest of the world. We tried to start mass production in America, but we realized that we didn’t have anyone like you, someone with generations of experience of precision mechanisms. We want to make a quality product.”

Joseph picked up one of the watches he was working on at that moment.

“You know, of course, that the biggest watchmakers in Switzerland are not to be found in this city or, indeed, in this region of Switzerland.”

“Of course I do, but we want to try out some new ideas, which is why we chose Schaffhausen.”

The American didn’t appear to understand. What was all this about a factory? The work of a master watchmaker was solitary and meticulous; each clock or watch had to be treated as if it were unique.

“May I invite you for a beer?” asked the visitor.

Joseph was a busy man and disliked being interrupted while he was working. On the other hand, he felt sorry for these foreigners who had not the slightest notion of the reality of life in Schaffhausen.

They had clearly chosen the wrong place and would soon be on their way. It wouldn’t hurt to depart a little from his routine and show them that, while the city might not be capable of mass-producing watches, its reputation for hospitality remained well founded.

Besides, one day American tourists might even come and bring him more business.

They went to the bar next door.

After talking about the weather, the mountains, the river, the Fronwag Tower and the changes that the advent of electricity was bringing to the world, Joseph delicately guided the conversation back to the original subject.

“As I said, you might do better going to another city, one more prepared to accept projects such as yours. Here, we live and die as our ancestors did, and new ideas don’t last very long. I reckon that, despite all the promises that have been made, even the hydroelectric plant will end up closing its doors, and the man who invested all his money in it will be left to shoulder the losses.”

“I can understand your concern, but my colleague and I want to adopt the American way of working. That is, mechanizing the manufacturing process as much as possible but without sacrificing quality. That’s why we’ve brought some of our machines with us. We want to produce 10,000 fob watches a year.”

“Ten thousand a year?” exclaimed Joseph. “That’s madness! Watchmaking is a slow, painstaking art!”

“That may be so, but would you, nevertheless, be interested in our offer? We would pay…”

Before he could name an amount, Joseph asked him for time to consider, knowing that his answer would be a very polite “No.” The man gave him the name of the place where he was staying, paid for the beers, then said in conclusion: “People with your kind of expertise will be fundamental to our business. As I said before, machines alone are not enough.

We can only make quality watches with people who know what they’re doing. We want these watches to reach the whole world, so that one day, be it on a mountain, in a city or on a beach far away from here, someone will be wearing one.”

“The arrogance of the man!”

Joseph said to his wife over supper. “These Americans think they can just walk in and change everything, wiping out generations of tradition with their wretched factories! And do you know what else he said? That he’d like to see someone wearing one of these watches on a beach! He doesn’t seem to understand that watches are delicate, precise mechanisms and that sand or water could ruin them!”

“But Joseph, you’ve always said that you’d like to go back to making watches, like your father and grandfather before you. This might well be a way of keeping up the family tradition.”

“I am keeping up the family tradition with my workshop. You surely don’t expect me to work in a factory!”

“The city is changing. The world is changing. According to news from Zurich and Geneva, watches and clocks are changing, too. You work with time every day, so you must understand what I mean.”

“And when I die, what am I going to leave for my son? You can’t inherit a job in a factory.”

“If you still haven’t understood what’s going on in the present, what’s the point of thinking about death? You’ll have plenty of time to think about that when your enthusiasm and your courage to change have gone.”

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Joseph couldn’t sleep. Was he really too stuck in his ways? What was the use of traditions if they didn’t move like the hands on a clock? Then again, he knew his trade well and knew it would be impossible to maintain quality if you produce 10,000 watches a year.

It was past 10 o’clock when he decided to get out of bed and go for a walk by the river. He only did this when he needed to make a very important decision: to marry, to buy a new house, to get a loan from the bank. His daily walks helped keep him fit, distracted him a little, filled his lungs with fresh air and gave him the concentration he needed for his work.

At night, though, the river became a kind of temple, the place where he went to think. The sound of running water calmed his spirit and took him far away from the ideas whirling in his head.

He left the house, looked up at the full moon lighting his steps, and thought about that so-called Industrial Revolution, which was the term used to describe the changes taking place in the world.

What kind of revolution was it that took away people’s jobs and replaced them with machines?

Absorbed though he was in his thoughts, he couldn’t help but notice a figure sitting on the bank, staring into the waters. When he came near, he saw that it was the other man whom he’d seen at the station. He didn’t want to disturb him; perhaps he had problems of his own to resolve. Joseph could guess what he must be thinking: he must be regretting having

come to that city where foreigners were made welcome but where all major changes were staunchly resisted.

“Good evening,” said the man.

“Good evening,” answered Joseph, ready to hurry on.

“Wouldn’t you like to sit and talk a little? Anyone walking by the river or sitting on the bank at this time of night must have problems in common.”

Only seconds before, exactly the same thought had occurred to Joseph.

He sat down beside the stranger, and, for a while, the two men sat gazing into the water, saying nothing.

Joseph sensed that the other man was far from his own country and, having no one to talk to, had to suffer in silence. He must be kind to him. Not wishing to encroach on the stranger’s privacy, he asked tentatively: “Can I help you in some way?

We could perhaps talk about the problems that have brought us both to the river tonight.”

“Of course. My name is Florentine Ariosto Jones. I left everything I had and came in search of an adventure: making watches in a foreign land. I came to the country that has the

longest tradition of watchmaking. I was looking for a place that was just beginning to open itself up to the new world. I thought that if we could focus brilliant minds on the same goal, we could make ourselves efficient enough to achieve our aim of producing 10,000 watches a year. I thought I would find enthusiastic people, eager to make up for the time they had wasted waiting for the arrival of electricity.”

“But that isn’t what happened.”

“No, people seem reluctant to change. But I’m here now, and I’m going to carry on fighting. I don’t want to go home a defeated man. Everyone back home told me my idea was crazy, that Europeans wouldn’t think like us.

Do you agree?”

“I do, but then it’s a subject I know something about. It’s not that we’re afraid of change, we’re just anxious to maintain our high standards. No one wants to feel ashamed of his work.”

“I know, but I thought I could persuade these master watchmakers to try something new. Efficiency and quality aren’t necessarily mutually exclusive. Men used to have to construct their own houses: build the walls, make the roof beams, cut the glass for windows, prepare the doors.

And then we made an important discovery: if everyone learned to do just one of those things, but to the highest standard, then we could build houses faster and better.”

The foreigner was right.

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“Look at this river flowing past us now,” Florentine Ariosto Jones went on. “For centuries, the waterfalls made navigation impossible, and Schaffhausen remained a village. One day, someone came up with the idea of creating a system of dikes. The river became a means of transport, commerce began to grow, the city expanded rapidly, and all thanks to the tolls paid by the travelers who had to transport their boats from one level to the next.

“Everyone seemed quite contented, but the world continued to change, and the city almost fell out of step with the rhythm of change and risked disappearing from the map. If someone capable of seeing the value of the waterfalls hadn’t appeared on the scene and transformed each drop of water into electricity, thus allowing local industries to spring up, Schaffhausen would have started to go backwards not forwards. And what would be the advantage of that?”

Joseph thought about the Moser project that the city’s power brokers had rejected for years but which now brought sleepy Schaffhausen the promise of a future.

The foreigner went on: “The subject doesn’t seem to fill you with enthusiasm.”

“I’ve visited big cities. I’ve seen the speed at which life is lived there. I don’t think we would be happy always rushing to and fro. In my opinion, the frantic speed at which people live their lives in those cities would be the only visible result of this so-called Industrial Revolution.”

Joseph admired Moser, who built the hydroelectric power station, but he was afraid, too. As an apprentice, he had visited the great cities of Zurich and Geneva. All he saw there was the frenetic pace of life dictated by industry, and he had few good memories of his time there.

On the other hand, the watchmaking industry was expanding fast; for many

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centimeters, but they can reach three times that size if placed in a lake. In the same way, people, too, have a tendency to grow to fit their environment. ”I didn’t know you were a watchmaker when you sat down here to talk. But I hope you will think about what my friend told me: a carp, for its own good, has to accept the limits of its world, but we’re free to set the boundaries of our dreams. If we grow too big for the tank in which we were bred, rather than adapting to it, we must seek out the oceans, even if the initial period of adaptation to that new environment proves painful and uncomfortable.”

people, the arrival of the Industrial Revolution had, for the first time, made them think they had to own a clock.

Now they needed a more precise instrument so as to know when to arrive at work and when to leave, to mark the hours, minutes, seconds.

“The watch is man’s next great step,” said the foreigner, as if he had been reading Joseph’s thoughts. “I find it odd that the people here don’t seem to realize that. If humanity had been content with the sundial, astronomers would never have been able to unveil the mysteries of the heavens; the Portuguese navigators would never have discovered the New World. And now, as civilization advances, if we didn’t know the exact arrival and departure times of trains, there would be endless accidents on the railroads being built in my country.”

“But why didn’t you choose Zurich or Geneva?”

“Because I have new ideas, and for those new ideas to grow, we need new people. As I said before, I want to produce 10,000 fob watches a year. The same person who built that dam across the river has rented me a building nearby. All I need are employees who share my enthusiasm and my vision of the future. What is your profession, by the way?”

Joseph told him that he had a small watchmaking workshop and that Jones’ colleague had called on him that very afternoon.

Florentine Ariosto Jones said nothing and didn’t even ask whether he’d accepted the proposal or not. He merely sat staring into the waters. In that dialog without words, it seemed that their two souls were speaking to each other: human beings are always thinking about what to do next, making decisions, making arrangements.

We’re always busy planning something, concluding something else and finding out about a third thing. There’s nothing wrong with that—after all, that’s how we build and change the world.

But he had left his bed that night with a definite objective in mind: to step outside of himself and to stand, silent, before the universe. On his nighttime walks, he always reached the right conclusions when he allowed himself to be led by his intuition instead of asking for an answer or seeking arguments for or against a particular plan of action.

This time, it was the American who broke the silence.

“Are there fish in this river?”

“Of course.”

“I’m thinking of a friend of mine who used to breed Japanese carp.

According to him, they have a natural ability to grow to fit the size of their environment. So in a small tank, they will never get bigger than 5 or 7

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Joseph walked back home and managed to sleep peacefully. The next day, he said to his wife: “You know, I really wasn’t born to be a carp. And I don’t want my son to be one either.”

“What?”

“Oh, nothing. But I think you’re right.

I should take that job.”

In 1868, the American Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Schaffhausen and rented a large industrial building belonging to J. H. Moser. Despite meeting with immense difficulties at first, within a few years, he had set up his own workshop and business. By 1876, he had to return to the United States, but the production of pocket watches at the International Watch Company, as it was known, continued.

Although his dream of producing 10,000 watches a year proved impossible at first (it took them until 1875 to produce 25,800), by 1930, IWC was considered the largest producer of watches in Switzerland, with more than 900,000 produced. According to a story that was circulating among the employees at the time, someone had written these words in the place where the industrialist and the watchmaker first met: “Dreams that we dream alone are merely dreams, but dreams that we dream together change reality.” ”The IWC Book” is available through booksellers and at iwc.com.

LOUP DESIGN

A LEGACY FOR TOMORROW

TECHNICAL AND PRECIOUS FINE WATCHMAKING DRAWS ITS LEGITIMACY FROM KNOW-HOW AND INNOVATION.

THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE, THROUGH ITS ACTIVITIES, FOSTERS AND BRINGS TO LIFE VALUES OF CREATIVITY, CULTURE AND TRADITION.

Partners of the Foundation: A. Lange & Söhne – Antoine Preziuso – Audemars Piguet – Baume & Mercier – Boucheron – Cartier – Chanel – Chopard Corum – Daniel Roth – Fédération de l’industrie horlogère suisse – Gérald Genta – Girard-Perregaux – Greubel Forsey – Hermès Hublot – IWC – Jaeger-LeCoultre – JeanRichard – Montblanc – Musée d'art et d'histoire de Genève – Musée d’Horlogerie Beyer, Zürich – Musée d’horlogerie du Locle, Château-des-Monts – Musée international d’horlogerie, La Chaux-de-Fonds – Panerai Parmigiani – Perrelet – Piaget – Richard Mille – Roger Dubuis – TAG Heuer – Vacheron Constantin – Van Cleef & Arpels – Zenith

HAUTEHORLOGERIE.ORG

WATCH CASES DO A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF WORK—RIGHT UP FRONT AND ABSOLUTELY INVISIBLY B Y S T E P H E N P R I E S T H O F F

HIDDENIN WATCH CASES ARE A HIDDEN ASSET IN A WATCH, EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE RIGHT IN FRONT OF OUR EYES. Often fashionably designed, highly finished and sometimes decorated with gemstones, they can divert attention away from their most essential role.

When we look at a watch, we usually see the dial and the hands—the purpose of a watch, after all, is to give us the time. However, the movement of a watch wouldn’t last long strapped to the wrist without a case. The proximity of one’s wrist and all of its possible environments can be a surprisingly harsh place.

The usual suspects, perspiration and natural skin oil, can take a toll, but, in addition, a watch is exposed to anything you might put your hand into: soapy water, saltwater, shampoos, lotions, mineral oils, organic oils and, of course, ordinary dirt and dust.

Water leaking into a watch means rust, and rust is a very nasty customer. It changes the

shape and size of parts, and the consequences can be difficult to fully discern. Also rust has a habit of growing back if it isn’t completely removed. For these reasons, replacement of the affected parts and complete disassembly of the watch is necessary. Interestingly, hot soapy water can get by a watch’s defenses more easily and under less pressure than, for instance, the cold saltwater of the sea. And if water does seep into a watch, time becomes a critical factor. I found that a watch that went through the washing machine, forgotten in a pocket perhaps, has a much higher survival rate if it goes undiscovered until it makes it through the dryer, too. Being immediately dried out vastly improves its chances. Perfumes and lotions can also breach the gaskets of a watch case more easily than ordinary water. Fortunately, they are also less destructive; they leave nothing damaged or rusted and necessitate only a cleaning.

A case also protects a delicate watch movement from the physicality of our world. Knocking a watch on a desk, bumping through doorways and dropping a watch are common. A bracelet worn on the same wrist will pummel a watch through constant contact, leaving a unique pattern of markings behind.

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Photo courtesy of A. Lange & Söhne

HOW IT WORKS

PLAINSIGHT

FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE A CASE PROTECTS A DELICATE WATCH MOVEMENT FROM THE PHYSICALITY OF OUR WORLD.

The finely engraved case of the Grand Complication No. 42500

by A. Lange & Sรถhne protecting a historical 833-part movement with split-seconds chronograph and chiming mechanism

Assembling a chronograph pushbutton

for creating the seal between the crystal and the case, usually with a nylon gasket, never glue. Presses with special fixtures are used to mount the bezel and fit the crystal, ensuring no damage is done as these parts are squeezed with the hundreds of pounds of pressure necessary to seat the crystal.

The three-part case, with a body, a bezel and a caseback, is a common configuration.

In this style of case, there are two major

W AT E R T I G H T P L A N THE HURDLE TO BE OVERCOME IN PUSHBUTTON R&D IS CREATING A MOVING ASSEMBLY THAT IS WATER RESISTANT.

joints that have to seal properly when fitted together. The two-part case is a variation aimed at minimizing the ingress of dust and water by minimizing the number of joints.

Here, we find the body and the back are a single piece, and there is limited access to the movement from the crystal side. Of course, with any new configuration, there is a tradeoff, and mistakes were sometimes made. I have an old two-part case damaged by a workman who, not understanding the design, had struggled in vain to unscrew the back of the watch. A chisel was actually used to apply enough torque to break the “stubborn seal of the caseback.” Of course, the

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replaced, as well as the crystal. Refinishing the case completes the work, and the movement is reunited with its valued bodyguard.

When buying a high-grade watch, remember what goes into a quality case; a good case will undoubtedly add many years of enjoyment to your purchase. And the next time you glance at your watch, take a look at the case, too. It is doing a tremendous amount of work—right up front and absolutely invisibly.

Stephen Priesthoff is a watchmaker by training and currently runs his own watch repair and restoration business.

Photo by Stephen Priesthoff

Ultimately, a watch case is a fairly simple idea; build a snug enclosure that will keep a watch movement safely inside, protected from all that we can dredge up. A complicated watch such as a chronograph with a perpetual calendar might have a case comprising 40 parts. To seal such a case requires meticulous engineering and construction.

Even a relatively simple three-part case must be stringently designed to fulfill its hidden purpose: to keep the outside world out of the inside of a watch.

If watch movements remained in isolation, they wouldn’t require much protection.

But we interact with our watches, and the complexity of the movement determines the level of our input. most watches come with a winding crown, and many come with a variety of buttons and pushers. Each of these controls presents a liability; each one is a potential leak. Because they are such vital parts, the overall value of a watch rises with the quality of these buttons. The hurdle to be overcome in pushbutton R&D is creating a moving assembly that is water resistant. So a high-grade chronograph button, for instance, usually has seven separate components, constructed with high precision: the shell, the long screw, two rubber O-rings, a washer, a spring and a tube to contain it all.

Together, the assembly can withstand more than 100 pounds of pressure.

It is clearly important to consider the plain fact that we have to see the dial. This means we have to have a crystal, the fitting of which is a critical job. Friction is the best method

case was mangled beyond repair before the mistake was discovered.

Disassembling and cleaning cases is an important aspect of routine after-sales service. Once the case is cleaned, everything is evaluated for functionality. This inspection is essential for spotting any defects or dents, bent or damaged button parts, the integrity of threads, anything that might affect the durability of the case. New winding crowns are often installed. A screw-down crown is an assembly of four or five parts, of which the threads are most critical. These threads are exposed to unusual wear in the corrosive environment around the wrist. Replacing the crown may seem conservative, but why risk the early failure of a component so ordinary after spending the hours of work needed to mend a watch and prepare it for its next 10 years of service? Of course, all the gaskets are

BASELWORLD THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 24 – 31, 201 1

WWW.BASELWORLD.COM

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TIME TRIALS | T H E CO N CO U R S I N T E R N AT I O N A L D E C H R O N OM ÉT R I E R EV I V ES COM P ET I T I O N TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Chronometer competitions

were once a staple of the watch industry. The first one was organized in Geneva around 1792, and similar competitions, designed to identify the most precise timepieces, were eventually established at observatories across Europe. The winners of these prestigious competitions benefited from touting their victories; to this day, watch companies talk about how many competitions they have won.

The precision of quartz watches ultimately made such competitions obsolete (the last was held in Neuchâtel in 1972).

However, now that mechanical watches have made a comeback, the Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle au Château des Monts museum in Le Locle, Switzerland, has reintroduced a chronometer competition for mechanical watches. The first competition, the Concours International de Chronométrie, was held late last year and was quite successful, with 14 brands and several independent watchmakers and students taking part.

T H E CO M P ET I T I O N S All entered watches undergo identical tests in the competition, with each scored on its precision following every test, and it’s quite a process. “We test the cased watches according to ISO 3159, first in Besançon at the observatory, then in Bienne [at COSC, the official Swiss chronometer testing institute], then in Le Locle for magnetism and shock tests, then back to COSC in Bienne,” explains Claude-Henri Chabloz, president of the competition’s organizing committee.

When the results were announced, first and second prizes had been won by JaegerLeCoultre. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon Caliber 978, the most precise watch of all, scored 909 of a possible 1,000 points; the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon took second with 907 points. The highest ranked independent watchmaker was René Addor, whose Papillon movement with 11-day power reserve finished in sixth place.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon Caliber 978

The Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle au Château des Monts

T H E B R A N DS Despite the prestige of winning, it wasn’t easy to convince brands to take part in this new competition, admits Chabloz.

The risk of failing publicly was perceived as too great. So the competition guarantees that only the winners will be named; all others will be identified by numbers. Chabloz congratulates all of the contestants taking part in the first edition of the competition. “The first companies to participate were courageous. They couldn’t know what the result would be; they couldn’t be sure how their watches would do. They sent their best watches and let the chips fall where they would.

They also approached the competition as a challenge and an opportunity to learn and get better.”

T H E S ECO N D E D I T I O N The 2011 Concours International de Chronométrie will feature two classes, tourbillons and non-tourbillons, in two divisions,

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one for companies and one for independent watchmakers. The deadline for entry is the end of January, and the results will be announced on October 20, 2011.

Organizers are hopeful that successive editions of the competition will attract more and more participants. As long as precision and reliability are important goals in mechanical watchmaking, such competitions offer an opportunity for makers to prove themselves. chronometrie.ch/2011

I N T E R N AT I O N A L S TA N DA R D ISO 3159 lays down the definition of the term “chronometer,” describing the categories, the test program and the acceptable requirements for wrist chronometers with spring balance oscillators.

It is the basis for testing performed by the COSC. Source: International Organization for Standardization

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THE HAMILTON LAB | “O U T T H E R E ” WATC H ES E X P LO D E O N TO T H E SMA L L S C R E E N TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG

Hamilton has long been known for its Hollywood collaborations and

for developing watches especially for the movies. Sometimes these special watches make their way into the brand’s regular collection; often, however, those perceived as too “out there” for the mainstream remain one-offs. But that is changing.

Hamilton’s most unusual creations, including some inspired by the movies, are being offered exclusively through an online source known as the Hamilton Lab.

Hamilton’s Time Player (far right), inspired by a clock (far left) created for Stanley Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Odyssey”

THE CONCEPT The Lab concept is an innovative way for Hamilton to make it possible for interested consumers to get their hands on these special watches while at the same time minimizing its risk. “When we develop products for Hollywood, prop masters, costume designers and producers want unique timepieces to use in their movie projects.

They expect us to come out with pieces that are

unlike anything on the market,” explains Matthias Breschan, president, Hamilton International. “The idea for the Hamilton Lab originated because we know that there are collectors and watch enthusiasts who are extremely interested in these special watches, but it’s a niche market. Rather than placing these special timepieces into retail stores and hoping that watch collectors discover them, we thought it would be better to develop a website where consumers can reserve the watches.”

THE IMPLEMENTATION Each year, Hamilton will introduce several special Lab pieces.

There’s no set number, because the number of special projects varies from year to

Hamilton Ventura XXL White

year. When a new piece is announced on the website, there will be a limited time for consumers to place virtual orders. If the piece sells out before the time period ends, the Lab will stop taking orders.

Hamilton will then produce and deliver the pieces. There must be a minimum of 300 pieces ordered through the Lab before it will commit to producing the timepiece.

What about delivery? Instead of sending the finished watch directly to the buyer, Hamilton has decided to keep its established retail network in the loop. The watches will be shipped to retailers who will deliver them to their owners.

“We wanted to integrate the retailer into the concept, because they have direct contact with collectors and watch fans,” Breschan explains.

Hamilton has already started to sell these unique watches—the

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HOLLYWOOD CONNECTION The ODC X-02 Quartz is inspired by the watch Hamilton created for Stanley Kubrick’s 1966 movie “2001: A Space Odyssey.” A valvelike pusher at the top of each dial enables the setting of three independent time displays, powered by a trio of quartz movements. The aerodynamic shape of the PVD-treated titanium case is modeled on the cross-section of an aircraft’s wing. The piece is priced at $1,750. first three Lab pieces, the ODC X-02, the Time Player and the Ventura XXL White—have proven popular during their time in the Lab. “The Lab gives us the possibility to explore many other areas as well, such as personalization,” Breschan adds. “We think we will have between three and 10 products available through the Lab every year.”

The prospect of an evolving selection of “out there” pieces is sure to keep curious fans of Hamilton making regular visits to the Lab. 800.234.8463, hamilton-lab.com

+ EVENT WATCH

Edouard Perret, Marc Antoine Dor, Antonio Calce and Cédric Doffey in Mexico City MEXICAN CONQUEST

A new and exclusive distribution agreement announced this spring between Swiss watch company Corum and Mexican distribution company Temposatis officially launched in June. An event taking place at the Torre Mayor in Mexico City celebrated the partnership, which advances Corum’s distribution network strategy, and two other milestones besides: the 50th anniversary of its Admiral’s Cup collection and the 30th anniversary of its Golden Bridge with baguette movement. Cédric Doffey, Temposatis brand manager, says, “There exists a great appreciation of well manufactured timepieces in Mexico. Mexican connoisseurs of haute horlogerie are many and can easily estimate the real value of a timepiece. Knowing this, we did not hesitate to accept the challenge that Antonio Calce proposed to us a few months ago, namely to return Corum to its rightful status in Mexico.” 949.788.6200, corum.ch Corum Admiral's Cup Black Split-Seconds 44 VICTORY AT WIMBLEDON

One month after winning the French Open, tennis star Rafael Nadal took home the top trophy at Wimbledon, marking his eighth Grand Slam title.

In competition, Nadal’s lightweight Richard Mille RM 027 tourbillon watch once again proved incredibly resistant to the intensity of the champion’s powerful strokes, including his legendary two-handed backhand.

Crafted in titanium, carbon and Lital alloy, the watch weighs less than 20 grams, including the strap.

Next, it accompanies Nadal to New York and the US Open. 310.205.5555, richardmille.com Rafael Nadal celebrating his Wimbledon victory

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The RM 027 tourbillon

Photo by Guillaume Corpart

EVENT REPORT | W H O ' S D O I N G W H AT, W H E R E A N D W H Y I N T H E WATC H I N D UST RY

©2008 Orbita Corporation

Fine watches stay wound, while their owners unwind.

View the aVanti – twelVe pedestal and all of our luxury watchwinders at orbita.com.

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DINNER AND A SHOW

The Plastiki arrives in Sydney, Australia HELLO, SYDNEY!

Sponsored on their Pacific odyssey by Swiss watch company IWC, the Plastiki and crew have finally reached the end of their epic voyage, which has taken them across the Pacific Ocean on an 8,000-nautical-mile adventure aboard a 60-foot catamaran built from 12,500 recyclable plastic bottles. After more than 130 days at sea, the team of 10 arrived around midday on July 26 at Sydney’s Australian National Maritime Museum, where they were welcomed by an excited crowd of friends, family

and supporters. Expedition leader David de Rothschild and the crew have been wearing stainless steel IWC Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition Adventure Ecology watches throughout their journey. At the close of the expedition, IWC offered a unique platinum edition of the watch at auction and donated the proceeds to the Sculpt the Future Foundation to support Plastiki’s ongoing legacy. 800.432.9330, iwc.ch, theplastiki.com

Vacheron Constantin and Wempe Jewelers hosted a watch collectors’ event in April to present the Swiss watchmaker’s historical timepieces alongside their counterparts from the current collection.

Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constantin NA, and Ruediger Albers, president of Wempe Jewelers, invited customers and watch connoisseurs to Le Bernardin, chef Eric Ripert’s renowned New York City restaurant. Fifty guests enjoyed hors d’oeuvres, cocktails and a jazz trio while taking in the exhibition.

Models adorned in exquisite diamond watches presented trays of timepieces from the Patrimony line. The evening advanced with an exceptional dinner of hamachi tartare, lobster ravioli, halibut and chocolate tart garnished with a Vacheron Constantin Maltese cross.

877.862.7555, vacheron-constantin.com

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

WINNER’S CIRCLE

The Belmont Stakes and Montblanc partnered to present the world’s finest horses in the final leg of the Triple Crown Events on June 5. The luxury brand is the official timekeeper of the race and the developer of a chronograph connected to horseracing. The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec chronograph was inspired by watchmaker Nicolas Rieussec, who made history in 1821 when he succeeded in recording the times of all the horses in a race with quarter-of-a-second accuracy as they passed the finish line. During the Belmont Stakes winner’s circle presentation, Montblanc NA president and CEO Jan-Patrick Schmitz awarded a Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec timepiece to the owner of the winning horse.

Schmitz says, “It is appropriate for Montblanc to be associated with the Belmont Stakes. This partnership underlines Montblanc’s commitment to preserving the tradition of timekeeping set by Nicolas Rieussec.” 800.995.4810, montblanc.com Presentation of the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec watch at the Belmont Stakes

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A part of me.

Eterna KonTiki. Rugged yet stylish, it reflects my character and says a lot about me. Crisp and sport-spirited, its good looks confirm a unique personality. Mine. In the ďŹ nest tradition of watchmaking by Eterna. www.eterna.com Tel: 866.425.9882

&ODVVLF 'HVLJQV )LQH -HZHOHUV *OHQGDOH *DOOHULD *OHQGDOH &$

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The Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic TEN FOR POLO

The 48-mm TW Steel Tech chronograph DRIVE FOR LITERACY

Watch brand TW Steel partnered with London Jewelers to sponsor the annual Hamptons Golf Classic in Westhampton, N.Y., in June, and children were the winners. Proceeds from the tournament, which was hosted by Justin Tuck of the New York Giants, benefited Tuck’s R.U.S.H. for Literacy, which donates books to children in New York and Alabama communities. VIPs, including actor Kyle MacLachlan (“Sex and the City,” “Desperate Housewives”), New York Knicks legend John Starks, ESPN correspondent Jay Williams and Jill Zarin and Sonja Tremont Morgan (“Real Housewives of New York City”), arrived wearing their TW Steel watches and spent time viewing the watch collection displayed in the clubhouse between their rounds of

golf. Members of the winning team received TW Steel’s Tech watch as a special prize. “This marks our second year partnering with London Jewelers in the Hamptons Golf Classic, and TW Steel is excited to support Justin Tuck’s great charitable cause,” says Scott Rosen of Tempus Group Corporation, which distributes TW Steel in the US. 415.732.7979, twsteel.com

For the second year in a row, Piaget proudly acted as the official timekeeper of the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic. And to celebrate its involvement in the sport of polo at this year’s event on Governor’s Island, Piaget created a limited edition version of its sporty Piaget Polo FortyFive chronograph.

“Piaget has a long history with polo, so we are proud to commemorate our partnership with the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic by creating this special timepiece,” says Larry Boland, president of Piaget NA. “It’s certain to become a collector’s item.” The timepiece features Clicquot yellow dial highlights and is marked “New York” to celebrate the location of this glamorous polo tournament. One of the 10 examples produced went to Team Blackwatch for its 6–5 victory. Team captain Nacho Figueras graciously accepted the award, and then promised to auction it to raise money for American Friends of Sentebale. The remaining nine watches will be offered exclusively at Piaget boutiques. 877.8PIAGET, piaget.com Franck Muller (center) at the Budapest boutique

HUNGARY FOR MORE

Franck Muller Hungary Ltd., a regional arm of Swiss watch manufacture the Franck Muller Group, opened a new flagship store on Andrássy Avenue in Budapest. This is the company’s 44th self-named boutique.

The ribbon-cutting ceremony was a gala event, attracting local and international press, approximately 200 invited guests, and representatives of the Swiss government and the brand. The brand’s namesake, Mr. Franck Muller himself, did the honors and cut the ribbon. Steven Sargent, worldwide sales director for the Franck Muller Group, comments, “This was the culmination of a project that began a year and a half ago and that required dedication and passion from both Hungarian and Swiss teams.”

212.463.8898, franckmullerusa.com Justin Tuck

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T I M I N G

F O R

The racers watch. The new Chronorally is the ultimate timepiece chosen by rally drivers, navigators and motoring enthusiasts alike. Whether competing or spectating, the Edox Chronorally is a sports timing instrument which can simultaneously measure elapsed time, accumulate stage times, recount/replay,

C H A M P I O N S whilst maintaining accurate standard time keeping functions. Essential as any onboard controls, the Chronorally sets the standards for those with a passion for motor sports. Edox - the official timing partner of the FIA World Rally Championships and Class-1 World Powerboat Championships.

Edox â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Timing for Champions since 1884.

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LUCKY NUMBER NINE

Audi Sport and its nine drivers sped to the finish, claiming the team’s ninth victory at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in June. The Audi No. 9, driven by Timo Bernhard, Romain Dumas and Mike Rockenfeller, crossed the finish line ahead of the Audi No. 8 (Marcel Fässler, André Lotterer and Benoît Treluyer) and the Audi No. 7 (Dindo Capello, Tom Kristensen and Allan McNish). As official partner and timekeeper, TAG Heuer provided Audi Sport drivers and management with Carrera and Grand Carrera chronographs and sunglasses. TAG’s eyewear R&D team has been working closely with Audi Sport drivers to develop and test night vision glasses that correct night myopia and prismatic deviation. And, this year, driver Capello used the glasses during a night segment of the famed endurance race. 866.260.0460, tagheuer.com

Arun Navar and Elizabeth Hurley WHITE TIE ENCOURAGED

Above: TAG Heuer's Carrera Calibre 1887 chronograph Right: driver Dindo Capello

SPEED RACER

TechnoMarine, together with King Jewelers, announced its sponsorship of the Miss GEICO powerboat, the four-time world champion and the fastest machine in the OPA Offshore Racing Series. Offshore racing is one of the fastest growing motorsports in the US, and TechnoMarine’s energy and attitude fit well with the highoctane sport. At a recent event celebrating the new relationship, Steven E. Cohen, CEO of

Miss GEICO in action TechnoMarine USA, commented, “This sport is about precision, speed and accuracy. As a watch company, this is our expertise.”

When Miss GEICO took to the waters in Sunny Isles Beach, Fla., on June 12, decked out in

the logos of her newest sponsors, she easily placed first at 135 mph. Miss GEICO’s 2010 race schedule runs along the eastern coast of the US through October 17. 800.822.2312, technomarine.com

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For the 12th consecutive year, Sir Elton John and David Furnish opened the doors of their splendid Old Windsor home in Woodside, England, in late June for the legendary White Tie & Tiara Ball, organized in partnership with Chopard. The private event welcomed a stunning array of guests.

The hosts and stars such as Elizabeth Hurley, Kate Beckinsale, Lady Gaga and others all wore spectacular Chopard Haute Joaillerie pieces.

A performance by Lady Gaga was followed by a special auction on behalf of the Elton John AIDS Foundation. Chopard’s Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele remarks, “I have always admired Elton John, who, in my view, is a truly incomparable artist.

I have chosen to support his fight against AIDS through a special watch collection as well as through events such as the White Tie & Tiara Ball.

This year holds special significance for us in that Chopard is celebrating its 150th anniversary. And I am thrilled to be once again supporting this cause.” 800.chopard, chopard.com

Haute-Performance TM

The Kriëger Gigantium Skeleton Skeleton Collection. Visible skeleton movement shows special hand engraved carvings and skull with ruby eyes. Available in 18kt rose gold, 18kt white gold, PVD gun metal coating or all stainless steel, with or without diamonds. Impressively oversized at 43mm. Swiss made superlative mechanical wound movement with exhibition back.

Anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Limited edition. KRIEGERWATCH.COM - 800 441 8433 Available at: TOURNEAU For locations nationwide, or shop at home 800 348 3332 LA VIANO JEWELERS Englewood NJ 201 569 4556 LOUIS BLACK Toronto Ontario 416 920 8338 KENJO JEWELERS New York NY 212 333 7220

NEW INSTRUMENT BR 01 CARBON FIBER 46 MM . CARBON FIBER CASE ANd dIAl . lIMITEd EdITION TO 500 pIECES Information and Catalog: Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 . information@bellrossusa.com . www.bellross.com

Breguet, the innovator.

The first wristwatch, 1810

In tribute to the first wristwatch created for the Queen of Naples in 1810, Breguet reinvents the ladies’ watch in a classic case with a contemporary profile. The various models in the Reine de Naples collection radiate a refined blend of expertise, elegance and precious materials, lending their aesthetic backdrop to an array of horological complications, art and jewellery. History is still being written ... www.breguet.com/inventions

BREGUET BOUTIQUES – 779 MADISON AVENUE

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