Front cover -
‘ the blue beyond the orcadian edge ’
122 x 122cm, £5,200
Looking out to the wild ocean from the edges of Orkney, an emotive sky above, I wonder how the Vikings must have felt standing here. What was out there? How far did it stretch? Was it another world? Infinity? The wild blue yonder……
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“This collection of work was inspired by a holiday in Orkney, where I was struck by the wild beauty and rawness of the surrounding landscape. This island, with its sparse population, ancient settlements and long-held customs, reminded me of the far west of Penwith where I live and work, and I felt a strong connection between the two which I wanted to explore.
Arriving at Kirkwall Airport, driving along the near-deserted roads to our destination, Stromness, I felt immediately at home. The landscape of ancient hedgerows and stone monuments, the scarcity of trees, other than the occasional wind-bent, stunted specimens, and a feeling of being ‘on the edge,’ was acutely reminiscent of home.
As the week progressed these links became increasingly evident: an awareness of coastal living, of being surrounded by sea, of the untamed forces of the Atlantic and of far horizons. All around were the bare bones of a wild and ancient landscape, pared back to the earth and rock in places, leaving echoes of its past still visible and very much part of the present.
As with the Cornish, there is a strong sense of identity and belonging amongst the Orcadians, many of whom can trace their island ancestors back multiple generations. They are intensely proud of their community, but at the same time incredibly welcoming to visitors, keen to share their knowledge and love of the island. Life on Orkney is simple, unhurried and relaxed. People have time to talk, to pass the time of day with each other or to sit in the sun outside their doors. In summer, being so far north, the days are long – it was still not quite dark at midnight. I saw someone mowing the lawn at 10 pm.
Like Penwith, Orkney has plenty of pretty coves, working harbours, fishing boats, and the ferries which regularly come and go, reminding me of Penzance’s Scillonian.
There is much similarity, too, in the wildlife. Seals are plentiful, along with a plethora of seabirds: Orkney has an abundance of Oyster Catchers, which seem to adorn tourist souvenirs - the Orkney equivalent of the Cornish gull. There is also the added joy of a thriving population of Puffins, if you know where to look.
Based in Stromness, I spent some time exploring the streets and harbour of this beautiful town – to my mind the ‘St. Ives’ of Orkney. A pretty, cobbled street (remarkably similar to Fore Street in St. Ives, but much quieter) accommodates a scattering of independent shops, and the town’s strong artistic community is evident. Shops selling local arts and crafts are dotted around, and at the Pier Arts Centre (every bit as good as Tate St. Ives in my mind) there is a large collection of work by the St. Ives School, including Alfred Wallace, Barbara Hepworth and Ben Nicholson.
On Orkney, as in West Penwith, I have been struck by a sense of people and place enduring through the ages. In Cornwall we have our carns, stone circles, fogous and quoits, but on Orkney this is amplified tenfold – the landscape is littered with giant stone circles, Neolithic roundhouses, chambered cairns and ancient settlements; in both, this enforces the sense of man’s endurance in these wild environments – a feeling that these communities have been here since the beginning of time, and an assurance that their existence will continue”. Neil Davies, 2023
This typical Cornish granite farmhouse with its tiny windows squinting at the landscape had looked deserted for some time. Today I notice with interest that someone is restoring it. Very isolated and only accessible by 4x4 but hopefully some hardy soul will love it.
‘ in the footsteps of picts and vikings ’
Approaching the Broch of Gurness, built around the 1st century BC and still standing tall. Surrounded by defences and the remains of fourteen houses, it has been occupied by the Picts and the Vikings. As I walk amongst the stone slabs which were once sleeping quarters, I just catch a glimpse of an otter before it dives. Perfect.
46 x 61cm, £1,575
‘ drift of wild flowers , scapa flow ’
the
towards
Driving down road Scapa Flow in our rented red Berlingo van, we come across a typical Orcadian farmhouse, a nearby bank of wild flowers a riot of colour. 46 x 61cm, £1,575‘ flash of red , woonsmith winter ’
46
Walking the dog up on Woonsmith moors, my eye is caught by the bright flash of red in front of this cottage. Not sure what it is as plant identification isn’t my strong point, but it’s unusual to see something so bright flourishing up here in midwinter.
x 61cm, £1,575
‘ braving the elements ’
seem endless this
Up on the moorland at Conquer Downs with the dog, buffeted by the wind and rain which
winter. A lonely cottage stands in the soggy undergrowth, patiently waiting for a brighter day but prepared for now to weather the storm.
46 x 61cm, £1,575
‘ a portal through time ’
46 x 61cm, £1,575
Walking round the ancient Standing Stones of Stenness, built around the third millennium BC, there is a frisson in the atmosphere and I am acutely aware of another time. It feels entirely possible to be transported back through a time portal – the walls between now and then feel very thin, and I could be standing here in any century.
‘
in winter ’
Up on the moors on a bleak winter’s day. The dark browns and rusts of the bracken are split by swathes of bleached yellow grassa rustling, whispering contrast.
woonsmith
61 x 76cm, £2,100
‘ boggy track across the moors ’
25 x 30cm, £800
Walking Obi after an exceptionally wet couple of weeks. The track is peaty and boggy as we squelch our way along it, and Obi’s white legs are peppered with black. An old, weathered granite farmhouse glowers darkly as we pass.
After an afternoon spent walking and exploring the cliffs, it’s great to just sit and watch as the day edges towards sunset and the sky lights up.
‘ two sides to the story ’
On a visit to Cape Cornwall, witnessing this incredible juxtaposition of light and dark, a division almost in half as the weather can’t seem to make up its mind.
122 x 122cm, £5,200
This impressive sandstone sea stack is often used by climbers We gazed in admiration for a long time,
122 x 165cm,
‘ yesnaby castle
castle sea stack ’
165cm, £6,500
climbers as a practice run before tackling the Old Man of Hoy. but felt absolutely no desire to climb it…
79 x 102cm, £3,450
A huge bulk of cliff stands firm against the crashing waves, so reminiscent of Cornwall. It is July, a heatwave in most of Britain, but Orkney is exempt from the rules, and offers 12 degrees and gusting winds. A brave little Orcadian croft squats on the top, in defiance of the elements.
Winter, and the storms are upon us. Rain lashes down over the cove, a solitary cottage crouching above, stoically coping with all that nature throws at it.
‘ winter deluge , porthledden ’
61 x 76cm, £2,100
‘
Standing on Yesnaby cliffs looking back towards the old battery. Looking out to sea, we realise there’s nothing but ocean between us and the Americas.
last stop before the americas ’61 x 76cm, £2,100
Standing on the causeway across to the Brough of Birsay, a tidal island and defensive headland, accessible only for 2 hours either side of low tide (shades of St. Michael’s Mount…). Weaving through the remains of Norse longhouses, we went right to the cliff edge – and there we found puffins. Hanging over the precarious cliff-edges in a gale to get closer to them was the highlight of the day. Time to make our way back across the causeway before we have to spend the night amongst the Vikings…..
Amazing rock strata on this headland, the Brough of Bigging, which is peppered with puffins perched in its folds, waddling in and out of their burrows on the grassy ledges. The most appealing of little birds…..
‘ rock strata and nesting puffins ’
61 x 76cm, £2,100
Walking along Yesnaby Cliffs, hoping to see a puffin. Apparently there is a colony here, but today they are either hiding in their burrows or fishing out at sea.
‘ yesnaby cliffs on a blustery day ’
61 x 76cm, £2,100
‘ after the storm comes light ’
The storm has blown away, and the sky is quickly lightening, sun glimmering tentatively. Another one been and gone, no harm done.
25 x 30cm, £800
into spring
Autumn, and Carn Galver presides over the russets and golds of the moors. Buzzards wheel and call overhead, riding the thermals while they still can.
‘ first flush of gorse , trencrom ’
Coming down the precarious path on the steeper side of Trencrom with Obi, our trusty Border Beagle, in early spring. The gorse is starting to appear, punctuating the greens, browns and greys with flashes of gold.
61 x 76cm, £2,100
Early evening at Cape Cornwall - the saturated light becomes hazy and the colours appear to melt into each other, dissolving into fuzzy pools.
until darkness creeps in.
‘ cowering cottage , windswept moors ’
43 x 46cm, £1,200
Looking across the estuary and out to sea, storm approaching slowly but surely. The light changes suddenly and there is a smell of impending rain. Time to head back to the car….
