EASY, SAFE AND GENTLE SKIN CARE

Whether you’re looking to develop leave-on products like serums, eye creams and masks or wash-off options such as micellar waters, toners and face cleansers – AECI Specialty Chemicals has got you covered with cosmetic ingredients. The ingredients discussed in this article are easy to formulate with and both gentle and safe. By Jacques Strydom

One of the most vital components of on the cleansing power of the product, its solutions that are more forgiving to the skin, any skin care routine is moisturisation, effectiveness on different types of dirt, the skin feel while still being effective cleansers. Dow’s range seeing that active moisturisation has after washing and the product’s foaming nature. of EcoSense surfactants are a family of naturally been linked to younger-looking skin. sourced, readily biodegradable surfactants. They There are two apsects to moisturisation: MODERN vs TRADITIONAL CLEANSERS have been specially developed to help create end1. cleansing in a way that does not strip the skin of Traditionally cleansers were based on sulphates use formulations that offer optimum performance its natural moisture barrier (e.g. sodium laureth sulphate or SLES), which are with excellent sensory appeal. Belonging to the 2. applying lotions and potions that will restore and effective surfactants, but can easily lead to dry and family of alkyl polyglucosides, EcoSense products further moisturise the skin. exposed skin, if used at high levels or not paired can be used both as primary and co-surfactants

The primary component to almost any cleanser with mutualistic surfactants and emollients to in a variety of cleansing applications, such as is the surfactant. The choice of surfactant will counteract the harshness. These days, many skin shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, liquid determine or at least have a dominant impact care brands have opted to go with milder surfactant hand soaps and baby wipes. Table 1: Bubbly Boost cleansing stick formulation With their improved environmental profile, EcoSense surfactants provide a

Phase Ingredient INCI Wt% new solution to help meet consumers’

A Water Water/Aqua 21.69 growing demands for personal care SoftCAT Polymer SK-MH Polyquaternium-67 0.20 products that are milder to the skin and Methocel E4M Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 1.50 hair and are naturally derived. These Polyox WSR-205 PEG-14M 0.10 surfactants also offer additional benefits Glycerin Glycerin 20.00 like excellent flash foaming and improved

B Pureact I-80P Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 20.00 rinse-ability. Dowsil 2511 Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane 2.00 The bubbly boost cleansing stick Sodium Stearate OP-100V Sodium Stearate 4.00 featured in Table 1 is an example of Kaolin Kaolin 2.00 a trendy and innovative product that EcoSense 3000 Empigen BS / FA Decyl Glucoside Cocamidopropyl Betaine 13.00 3.00 can be formulated using EcoSense surfactants. This prototype has been

C D Dowsil AMS-C30 Sweet Almond Oil CA (659831) Dowsil 2503 Puricolor Orange AOR7 FDA Neolone PH 100 Hydrolite 8 C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (and) C30-45 Olefin Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet almond) Oil Stearyl Dimethicone (and) Octadecene CI 15510 (0.3% in water) Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol 2.00 4.00 2.00 1.00 0.83 0.68 formulated for the face and body, acting as a convenient stick that gently cleanses and exfoliates the skin, leaving it with a smooth afterfeel. As a low-water, solid formulation, Natural Abrasive Blend Medium-Fine Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder 1.00 the cleansing stick is also an effective 697343 Orange Douce Perfume 1.00 makeup remover. To build the structure of the stick, a Ideal for the face or body, this convenient stick gently cleanses and exfoliates the skin with a smooth after-feel blend of three cosmetic waxes are used.

Dowsil 2511 helps reduce tackiness, while acting as a humectant. Dowsil 2503 is a silicone wax that melts at the temperature of the skin, allowing ease of application and Dowsil AMS-30 has a high melting point, which gives the stick its structural integrity.

SERUMS, CREAMS AND MASKS

Formulating leave-on products have never been easier, with AECI Specialty Chemical's Siltouch rheology modifier. This cold-process emulsifier is capable of creating various textures in minutes. The ingredient acts as an emulsifier, thickener and emollient all in one.

Creating serums, creams and masks is a breeze with Siltouch, due to its inherent versatility and compatibility with most emollients and other cosmetic ingredients. Whether the requirement is a thick, white moisturising cream with a high oil content, or a light translucent serum carrying an active component – Siltouch is the simplest solution, whilst also being high-tech.

The type of moisturisation needed can be easily tailored with this just-add-water base ingredient. More substantive emollients like mineral oil can be

used in large quantities, to create a barrier on the skin, guarding it against transepidermal water loss.

This is one mechanism of moisturisation. Another mechanism is humectancy, which is the process of drawing moisture to the skin. Humectants like glycerine, propylene glycol or Dow’s cosmetic waxes can be used with Aculyn Siltouch to increase the inherent moisturising ability of a skin cream in the easiest possible way.

Not only is Siltouch a brilliant ingredient, it is also a handy tool for any R&D chemist. Due to its cold-process nature and ability to form emulsions in seconds, it is the perfect tool to test different mixtures of emollients, without needing to do HLB calculations. Furthermore, due to its inherent stability, different active materials can be tested and showcased in this chassis, giving the chemist quick and valuable feedback.

Contact AECI Specialty Chemicals if you would like to learn more about Ecosense surfactants, Siltouch rheology modifier or related solutions for your skin care needs. •