SKIN CARE
EASY, SAFE AND GENTLE SKIN CARE
Whether you’re looking to develop leave-on products like serums, eye creams and masks or wash-off options such as micellar waters, toners and face cleansers – AECI Specialty Chemicals has got you covered with cosmetic ingredients. The ingredients discussed in this article are easy to formulate with and both gentle and safe. By Jacques Strydom
O
ne of the most vital components of
on the cleansing power of the product, its
solutions that are more forgiving to the skin,
any skin care routine is moisturisation,
effectiveness on different types of dirt, the skin feel
while still being effective cleansers. Dow’s range
seeing that active moisturisation has
after washing and the product’s foaming nature.
of EcoSense surfactants are a family of naturally
been linked to younger-looking skin.
sourced, readily biodegradable surfactants. They
There are two apsects to moisturisation:
MODERN vs TRADITIONAL CLEANSERS
have been specially developed to help create end-
1. cleansing in a way that does not strip the skin of
Traditionally cleansers were based on sulphates
use formulations that offer optimum performance
(e.g. sodium laureth sulphate or SLES), which are
with excellent sensory appeal. Belonging to the
effective surfactants, but can easily lead to dry and
family of alkyl polyglucosides, EcoSense products
exposed skin, if used at high levels or not paired
can be used both as primary and co-surfactants
with mutualistic surfactants and emollients to
in a variety of cleansing applications, such as
is the surfactant. The choice of surfactant will
counteract the harshness. These days, many skin
shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, liquid
determine or at least have a dominant impact
care brands have opted to go with milder surfactant
hand soaps and baby wipes.
its natural moisture barrier 2. applying lotions and potions that will restore and further moisturise the skin. The primary component to almost any cleanser
With their improved environmental
Table 1: Bubbly Boost cleansing stick formulation
profile, EcoSense surfactants provide a
Phase Ingredient
INCI
Wt%
new solution to help meet consumers’
A Water SoftCAT Polymer SK-MH Methocel E4M Polyox WSR-205 Glycerin
Water/Aqua 21.69 Polyquaternium-67 0.20 Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 1.50 PEG-14M 0.10 Glycerin 20.00
growing demands for personal care
B Pureact I-80P Dowsil 2511 Sodium Stearate OP-100V Kaolin EcoSense 3000 Empigen BS / FA
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 20.00 Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane 2.00 Sodium Stearate 4.00 Kaolin 2.00 Decyl Glucoside 13.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3.00
rinse-ability.
C
Dowsil AMS-C30 Sweet Almond Oil CA (659831) Dowsil 2503
C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (and) C30-45 Olefin Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet almond) Oil Stearyl Dimethicone (and) Octadecene
D
Puricolor Orange AOR7 FDA CI 15510 (0.3% in water) Neolone PH 100 Phenoxyethanol Hydrolite 8 Caprylyl Glycol Natural Abrasive Blend Medium-Fine Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder 697343 Orange Douce Perfume
2.00 4.00 2.00 1.00 0.83 0.68 1.00 1.00
Ideal for the face or body, this convenient stick gently cleanses and exfoliates the skin with a smooth after-feel
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QUARTER 3 2020 // P&C AFRICA
products that are milder to the skin and hair and are naturally derived. These surfactants also offer additional benefits like excellent flash foaming and improved The bubbly boost cleansing stick featured in Table 1 is an example of a trendy and innovative product that can be formulated using EcoSense surfactants. This prototype has been formulated for the face and body, acting as a convenient stick that gently cleanses and exfoliates the skin, leaving it with a smooth afterfeel. As a low-water, solid formulation, the cleansing stick is also an effective makeup remover. To build the structure of the stick, a blend of three cosmetic waxes are used.
