PCA June 2016

AFRICA

Quarter 2 2016 | Volume 1 | Number 2

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za

Improving skin health by promoting indigenous plants and traditional knowledge in Africa

Natural is a necessity for African consumers New measures to step up quality control Touring packaging trends on the continent

Locally sourced Locally made Internationally approved

Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email: sales@cirebelle.com

www.cirebelle.com

CIREBELLE Waxes • CIREBELLE Beads • CIREBELLE Blends • CIREBELLE Softsphere™

AFRICA

NEWS

Quarter 2 2016 | Volume 1 | Number 2

www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS News 6

BASF opens in Ivory Coast

7

Ethiopia encourages local

24

Updated news from All4Pack Paris

Events 10

26

Industry Insight SPIM 2016 calls on young African scientists

Ethnic Care 14 15

27

Silicone products from Wacker Renewable materials and

Vegetable oils for enhanced product performance

GSK changes its IP protection policy

Sterile sporicidal product for transfer disinfection Introducing Octanorm’s modular cleanroom solution

Packaging

Textron’s oil-based botanical skin brightener

29

Pouches and sachets a firm favourite in Africa

DID YOU KNOW?

24

12

Quality Control 28

biodegradable ingredients

16

Multifunctional products on the rise

Pharmaceutical Focus: Generics

Bank of Industry endorses Propak West Africa

11

Innovation addressing damaged African hair

Personal Care

pharma production

8

18 20

BOTANICALITE HAS BEEN PROVEN TO ADDRESS SEVERE PIGMENTATION ISSUES IN AFRICAN CONSUMERS

A targeted solution for African hair

According to market research company, Technavio, the beauty and personal care market in Africa is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8.24 percent over the period 2014 to 2019.

18

Showcase your research success at 11

SPIM 2016

22 P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

3

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

Poised for economic growth A

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 715 8012 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Nikita Geldenhuys +27 (0)11 877 6209 nikita.geldenhuys@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Kim MacCallum and Victoria Donat ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za

fricans just seem to have a knack

Hydrasoft Lightening; silicone solutions

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za

for fusing global trends with

from Wacker; and Croda’s multicultural

INTERNATIONAL SALES

regional innovations. Their various

conditioning solution that has been

cultures are bright and eclectic, much

tested on African hair are some of the

like the future of the continent’s beauty

topics discussed.

and personal care industry. Fast-growing

Developments in the generic medicines

markets such as Nigeria, Kenya and

sector are revealed in our Pharmaceutical

Egypt are deemed valuable assets by

Focus on page 26 with the recent

many of the multinational beauty giants,

announcement by GlaxoSmithKline to

with consumers’ focus shifting to natural

further help bring innovative medicines

ingredients, enhanced efficacy and

to developing nations. This involves the

improved finished product sophistication.

global company’s move to ease intellectual

In 2015, Euromonitor analysts found

property rights for the poorest of countries.

that manufacturers in Kenya engaged in

The Packaging update in this edition

adding value and developing new products

covers flexible substrates, and pouches

containing natural ingredients in response

and sachets in particular. Turn to page

to the growing consumer demand for more

29 now to find out more about the

natural products. Skin care, hair care, and

latest developments regarding these

bath and shower care were among the

popular packaging solutions for Africa’s

leading categories reflecting such changes.

FMCG industries.

In this edition of Pharmaceutical

The team and I are keen on hearing from

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Mediapoint & Communications Fabio Potesta +39 010 570 4948 info@mediapointsrl.it China: ACT International Hong Kong – Pauli Mak +85 228 386 298 paulim@actintl.com.hk Shenzen – Michael Tsui +86 755 259 8857 1 michaelt@actintl.com.hk Shanghai – Lisa You +86 106 487 252 lisay@actintl.com.hk Beijing – Gloria Zhu +86 106 418 7252 gloriaz@actintl.com.hk Winson Xing +86 106 418 7252 winsonx@actintl.com.hk Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

Cosmetic Review Africa, we take a look at

our P C Review Africa readers; please

new technologies and solutions that meet

remember to keep in touch on all of the

Art Director: David Kyslinger

the beauty, personal care, and health care

creative and innovative developments

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

needs of African consumers. The central

within your company. E-mail me on

theme for this edition is the natural trend.

abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za

Botanica Natural Products is one reputable

regarding any expansions and

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

supplier ideally positioned to assist brand

upgrades, new technological

owners and manufacturers with natural

investments or product

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

and organic personal care ingredients. Turn

launches. As always, we

GROUP COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

to page 12 now to find out more about its

welcome your news and

John Psillos

speciality plant extracts and selection of

views and look forward to

MANAGING DIRECTOR

African oils.

hearing from you.

Interesting formulation technologies and ingredient innovations come under

Enjoy the read.

the spotlight in the Ethnic Care feature starting on page 14. Textron’s cost-effective, oil-based botanical skin brightener, Evoil

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

Bridget McCarney NON EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX QUARTER 2 2016 Amchem...........................................................IBC .....................www.amchem.co.za Botanica Natural Products .............................OFC ...................www.timola.co.za Chem Systems .................................................19 .......................www.chemsystems.co.za Cirebelle ...........................................................IFC, 17 ...............www.cirebelle.com Merck ................................................................5.........................www.merck.co.za Natchem ..........................................................14 .......................www.natchem.co.za

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

Unicare Ingredients ........................................15 .......................www.unicare.co.za

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Vantage Speciality Chemicals......................21.......................www.vantagegrp.com

Pharmaceutical

Savannah Fine Chemicals .............................25 ......................www.savannah.co.za Symrise .............................................................OBC...................www.symrise.com

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

4

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

NEWS

Alpla Taba’s headquarters in El Obour, close to Cairo

AFRICAN ECONOMIES ON HIGH GROUNDS percent average GDP growth during the year.

PLASTIC PACKAGING JOINT VENTURE IN EGYPT

This is compared to the best performers in

THE AUSTRIA-BASED ALPLA group has formed a joint

developed countries which hardly reached two

venture with the Taba Group, thus strengthened its

DESPITE THE DIFFICULT and challenging global economic situation, African countries achieved considerable economic progress in 2015, registering a 3.6

percent. Africa also accounts for five of the world’s fastest-

market position in Africa.

growing economies with Côte d’Ivoire, Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Rwanda and Tanzania registering

The two companies have signed a partnership agreement in which Alpla will take on a majority

growth rates of seven percent or more.

shareholding in Taba. The new entity will operate under

These positive statistics were presented to thousands of

the name Alpla Taba. The contracting parties have

participants at the African Development Bank’s annual meetings in Lusaka, Zambia, on

agreed not to disclose the details of the agreement.

25 May.

Taba was founded in 1988 and has two locations in El

According to the bank’s report, in 2015 economic performance was varied across

Obour, close to Cairo. The company produces plastic

countries and regions, with Eastern Africa at the top of the group with an average GDP

bottles and closures for international customers in the

growth of 6.3 percent, from 6.5 percent the previous year. Central Africa averaged 3.7 percent from 6.1 percent while Western Africa recorded a sharp decline from six percent in 2014 to 3.3 percent in 2015. In North Africa, growth more than doubled from 1.4 to 3.5 percent. Southern Africa slowed to an average of 2.2 percent from 2.8 percent in 2014,

pharmaceutical, home care, body care, food and beverage industries. It is active in various parts of Africa and the Middle East.

‘This partnership is another promising step to help us

making the region the slowest growth pole on the continent during the year in review.

expand our market presence in Africa and the Middle

Africa’s resilience at a time when frontline global economies are struggling can be attributed to strong public investment especially in infrastructure, strong domestic

East,’ says Christoph Riedlsperger, Alpla’s regional

consumer base, a burgeoning services sector and gradual economic diversification.

manager of Africa, the Middle East and Turkey. ‘Thanks

The report also projected the continent’s average GDP growth to 3.7 and 4.5 percent, respectively in 2016 and 2017.

to the regional locations, we will be able to offer further benefits to our customers in the future.’

NEW IVORY COAST HUB FOR BASF THE CHEMICAL COMPANY has established a new legal entity in Ivory Coast, located in Abidjan. This is in addition to its presence in Morocco and other countries of the Maghreb for over 60 years. It has also been operating in South Africa for the past 50 years.

In 2010 BASF launched a specific strategy for Africa and created four country clusters with main offices located in Casablanca (for North and French-speaking West Africa), Lagos (for Englishspeaking West Africa), Nairobi (for East Africa) and Midrand (for southern Africa).

‘We are supporting our business growth throughout Africa with the support of smaller offices established in Zambia, Tanzania, and most recently, Ivory Coast. Overall we are present in more than 12 countries right now and we plan to keep on increasing our presence in the coming years,’ explains Andres Monroy, MD of BASF North and West Africa (French-speaking countries).

After having a representative office in Abidjan, the company

Andres Monroy says BASF seeks to leverage its leading position as an integrated global chemical company to create opportunities in Ivory Coast

its capabilities considerably to continue innovating in this important region. Last year, BASF sales in North and West Africa

chose to expand its presence in Ivory Coast to show its

totalled more than €200 million. The company is also employing

commitment to the country. ‘Our customers have already

market development staff to better understand the needs and

experienced the outstanding performance of BASF products

potential demands of the local market.

and now they will have a local office to provide them advice and support in applications using our technology,’ Monroy adds.

Ivory Coast is a key growth market for BASF, which has expanded

6

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

BASF is also encouraging employment and training of the local workforce with the aim of enhancing the population’s technical skill-set over a period of time.

NEWS

TAX INCENTIVES TO INCREASE MEDICINE PRODUCTION IN ETHIOPIA TO ENCOURAGE LOCAL pharmaceutical production, the Government of Ethiopia is offering tax and loan incentives that will ultimately reduce the cost of drugs, increase job opportunities, improve economic growth and enhance foreign exchange inflow.

Ethiopia has previously relied heavily on pharmaceutical imports, or international manufacturers with a footprint in the country, to meet a growing consumer demand for medicine. As a result, several initiatives will be rolled out to improve the quality of health care in the country, owing to a large gap in the supply and demand of drugs.

‘The government has encouraged local pharmaceutical production with tax-free loans for up to five years and a 100 percent exemption on custom duty for imports on capital goods,’ says Frost & Sullivan industry analyst for transformational health, Aditi Bhalla. ‘Furthermore, an income tax exemption for five years is provided to manufacturers exporting 50 percent of their products, or supplying 75 percent of their products or services as production or services input. The time for production registration has also been reduced to a month for local manufacturers.’

A new study from Frost & Sullivan, entitled Analysis of the Ethiopian Pharmaceutical Market, finds that the market earned revenues of US$620 million in 2015 and estimates this to reach US$1.01 billion in 2020. The study covers prescription and over-the-

GERMAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE OPENS ZAMBIA OFFICE

counter medicines, with prescription medicines further divided into generic and

ON 24 MAY, the Southern African-German Chamber

branded medicines.

of Commerce and Industry opened a new branch

Ethiopia has an increasing requirement of antibiotics, as well as anti-infective drugs,

office in Lusaka, Zambia. High level speakers featured

given the high incidences of communicable diseases in the country and an ever-growing

at the opening ceremony, including Margaret

population. This in turn is fueling the need for chronic care medication.

Mwanakatwe, Zambian Minister of Commerce, Trade

In addition to rolling out programmes like the Growth and Transformational plans and

and Industry; Thomas Silberhorn, Parliamentary

Health Sector Development Plan, the government has partnered with the World Health

State Secretary to the Federal Minister for Economic

Organization. This collaboration resulted in the launch of the National Strategy and Plan of

Cooperation and Development; Dr Dorothea Schuetz,

Action for Pharmaceutical Manufacturing Development to urge domestic production and

deputy director in the German Ministry of Economic

strengthen the national medicine regulatory system.

Affairs and Energy, and Geoffrey Sakulanda, president of the Zambian Chamber of Commerce and

ROMACO CONTINUES TO GROW

Industry. Professor Horst Koehler, the former Paulo Alexandre applauds the outcome of the company’s corporate strategy

THE COMPANY HAS reported a 15.1 percent rise in incoming orders for the 2015 fiscal year. The supplier of processing and packaging solutions recorded a significant increase in sales of new machines, with 24.2 percent more orders won than in 2014.

This general upward trend is also reflected in the sales figures, which grew by 12.6 percent to €126.3 million. The successful fiscal year is the outcome of the group’s heavy investments in its sales organisation over the last few years.

‘The significant growth in orders received and the increase in our sales figures are a vindication of our current corporate strategy “Beyond Technology”, which places the focus on the customer’s lifecycle,’ says Paulo Alexandre, CEO of the Romaco group. ‘Ensuring our customers’ business success is a top priority for us and drives our future growth.’

Visit the Romaco website for a list the company’s agents in Africa.

President of the Federal Republic of Germany also attended the event.

The chamber’s Lusaka office promises to be a powerful asset to German businesses looking to establish operations in Zambia. Its emergence as the third largest economy in southern Africa over the last few years has underlined the vast opportunities within this country. The chamber will offer companies from Germany a comprehensive platform for engaging in bi-lateral business relations with the major players in Zambia’s vibrant economy.

Johannes Kurt has been appointed by the chamber as its representative in Lusaka. Kurt has spent most of his career fostering German-African business relations. Most recently, he was employed at the German-African Business Association (AfrikaVerein), working closely with African governments and the German private sector. It was at this Berlinbased organisation where he held the position of manager for southern Africa. In February 2016, he joined chamber.

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

7

NEWS

PROJECT SET TO SUPPORT DISADVANTAGED GIRLS IN GHANA PROCTER & GAMBLE (P&G) sub-Saharan Africa, World of Children Award, and EPF Educational Empowerment Initiative have announced a joint project. This will see all three entities providing sanitary supplies and health-related educational materials to 1 000 junior school girls over the next six months.

BLISTEREVOLUTION CAMPAIGN KICKS OFF

Khululiwe Mabaso, P&G’s director of communications for The Integra 320 integrated robotised blister line in action

sub-Saharan Africa, comments: ‘Empowering the female child is multifaceted and one of the most powerful platforms to positively change our society. Beyond the prevailing impact, this initiative will have on the lives of vulnerable Ghanaian females.’

MARCHESINI RECENTLY TOOK part in two major packaging events in Brazil

EPF is a Ghanaian organisation founded by Winnifred Selby,

and Mexico. FCE Pharma was held from 10 to 12 May in São Paulo, while

the 2015 World of Children Youth Honouree. Selby is thrilled

Expopack took place in Mexico City from 17 to 20 May.

with the joint project and its potential to expand the scope of

On both occasions, the company showcased its blister packaging solutions,

her current programmes. ‘Girls can face so many problems

including the Integra 220 and 320. These lines have set the foundations

in Ghana today. Winning the World of Children Award and

for Marchesini’s success in this market share. The exhibitions kicked off the

entering into this relationship with P&G shows that EPF’s work,

company’s Blisterevolution campaign, which will build up to the inauguration

and these girls, are truly important to the world.’

The potential of the project to bring a largely taboo subject

of its thermoforming centre in Italy in October.

Presented to FCE Pharma visitors, the Integra 220 features a very compact

out in the open is recognised by Harry Leibowitz, co-founder

layout with visual appeal. It offers time and cost-saving advantages, as two

of the World of Children Award and recipient of the 2007

main work stations are combined in this offering.

P&G Alumni Humanitarian Award. ‘Lack of access to sanitary

The Integra 320’s innovative features and ergonomics were presented to

supplies during menstruation drastically increases school

Expopack attendees. The machine’s pitch controller, cartoner and ingenious

absenteeism. Inadequate reproductive health education can

carton opening and product insertion system boost production rates to

have even more devastating consequences. Girls fall behind

320 blisters and over 260 cartons a minute. These features are combined

or drop out completely. It is broadly estimated that as many as

into a compact machine, integrating the blister thermoforming and carton

30 million girls globally lack access to proper sanitation during

packaging phases into a single monobloc.

menstruation. With this programme, we are making a start at changing this troubling statistic.’

KEEP UP WITH PACKAGING INNOVATIONS THE INTERNATIONAL TRADE event All4Pack Paris 2016 is set to offer an

discussed by experts, stakeholders and influential industry figures.

unprecedented range of content, addressing today’s most pressing themes for

All4Pack will also play host to Expo 10/10, and international competition

industry professionals. To be held in France from 14 to 17 November 2016, the

dedicated to packaging. In addition, the Best Pack 4.0 event will feature design

exhibition will focus on packaging, printing, processing and handling solutions.

students from international colleges in Canada, France, Italy and the Netherlands.

With a programme packed with exciting and insightful features and events, the expo fulfils the promise of its tagline ‘Let’s be creative’. The show promises

They will offer a fresh and forward-looking view of technological, progresstriggered developments awaiting the packaging world.

to plunge attendees into an experience hallmarked by innovation. It will give the expected 98 000 trade visitors the opportunity to gain insight into trends and learn more about the current and future challenges facing the industry.

One show feature, the Pack Innovation showcase, will be a space dedicated to the discovery of the most recent solutions offered by exhibitors. These selected products will be displayed in a showcase throughout the show, and the most outstanding will receive a distinction from the Pack Experts Committee in the form of an Innovation Award. The TV Stage is another feature which will provide a unique platform for analysis and exchange, where exhibition highlights will be

8

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

The Pack Innovation showcase area at the 2014 Emballage and Manutention trade shows, which have been combined to create All4Pack Paris

DIARY 2016

WHAT'S ON IN

2016

July

Propak China 13 to 15 July Shanghai New International Expo Centre www.propakchina.com

Cosmoprof North America 24 to 26 July Mandalay Bay Convention Centre, Las Vegas www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

August Professional Beauty Johannesburg

AFRICA

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

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P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

9

EVENT

Dedicated to

West African growth With less than four months to go, Propak West Africa has almost outsold the total floor space the show occupied in 2015. The expo takes place from 20 to 22 September at the Landmark Centre in Lagos, Nigeria.

BELOW The 2015 seminars and conferences were well attended

for the Economic Community of West

BOTTOM More than 2 600 attendees filled the halls of Propak West Africa last year

PROUD PARTNERS

African States.

EXHIBITORS HAVE THEIR SAY

The Bank of Industry has endorsed Propak West Africa 2016, as Afrocet Montgomery’s regional director, George Pearson, explains: ‘We are excited to announce the endorsement. Its inclusion in the exhibition and conference

The exhibition was a fantastic platform, which provided us with the necessary exposure and contacts of key printing and packaging players in Nigeria. We’ll be back in 2016’ – Shripad Joshi, vice president technical and sales, Megatech UPS.

programme will help promote and educate local buyers on the benefits the bank can provide to raise finance for capital goods. This is also exciting for international exhibitors as the cost of larger printing and packaging machinery often puts these products out of reach for many aspiring local companies. With the

We travelled all the way from Germany for this exhibition. I have obtained some very interesting leads that will hopefully translate into real business partnership’ – Andre Soterio, product manager, Yupo Europe.

prospect of low interest long-term loans, bigger equipment purchases become more attainable.’

A

s one of the largest

EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES

packaging, printing

Various seminars aimed at senior-

and plastics exhibitions

level industry professionals will run

in the region, the 2015

alongside the exhibition, looking into

event attracted 85 exhibitors and

the state of manufacturing in Africa.

over 2 600 attendees. This year a

In 2015, the seminar auditorium was

number of returning exhibitors have

filled to capacity with attendees

booked larger stands, allowing them

gathering to gain valuable insight

to demonstrate their machinery and

from representatives at Unilever,

equipment in action.

PZ Cussons and Reckitt Benckiser,

According to the expo organiser, Afrocet Montgomery, solutions for

among others.

The 2016 conference programme

the pharmaceutical industry will

will again feature leading industry

receive greater attention at this

speakers, who will provide

year’s event. The pharmaceutical

presentations and participate in

industry is expected to grow rapidly

interactive panel discussions.

until 2020, reaching a total of

Companies interested in exhibiting

US$11 billion in sales in Nigeria alone.

at Propak West Africa, and anyone

This is as a result of the country

keen to visit the show should visit

being home to 60 percent of the

www.propakwestafrica.com for

production of pharmaceutical drugs

more information. •

10

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

Propak West Africa serves as a very good forum. Most importantly, it is an opportunity for us to educate exhibitors on the requirements for registering new products, and the relevant regulations’ – Mosunmola Samuel, principal standards officer, Standard Organisation of Nigeria.

It was definitely a good experience in terms of meeting prospective clients. I flew from Dubai for this exhibition. It was my first time in Nigeria and I will be back in 2016’ – Zhang Guo, sales manager, Lucky Films Middle East.

The most striking thing about Propak West Africa was the quality of the visitors. From this event alone, we have quoted for over US$25 million worth of business’ – Pieter Du Toit, key accounts sales manager, Filmatic Packaging Systems.

INDUSTRY INSIGHT

Showcase your research success at SPIM 2016

Students now have the opportunity to gain recognition on a global platform, with Natchem and its international principal, Greentech, at the 2016 Skin Physiology International Meeting (SPIM). Both companies are working together to drive this campaign for young scientists by creating awareness in Africa.

S

PIM is a non-profit foundation

participants at the end of the event; the

Cape, entitled Bacteriophage: drivers of the

supported by Greentech to

winner receives a grant of €4 000.

human skin microbiome.

encourage cross-collaboration

Any young scientist from Africa interested

Professor Ralf Paus, FRCB, from

in entering the Greentech Awards is

Manchester University, UK, will share basic

disciplines involved in studying skin and

advised to visit www.skin-meeting.com

concepts and translational perspectives

metabolic interactions.

and create an account. All applications

in his presentation on the hair follicle as a

must be uploaded onto the website via the

neuroendocrine organ.

between researchers of various

This bi-annual scientific meeting includes numerous conferences dealing specifically

Autophagy: a component of the

submission form.

The scientific project must include the

anti-ageing elixir will be covered by Dr

engage various disciplines in innovative

most pertinent results, updated works and

Maria Chiara Maiuri, from the Gustave

and interactive discussions within a

perspectives, and should not be more

Roussy Comprehensive Cancer Centre, in

professional environment.

than 10 pages. Papers cannot contain any

Villejuif, France.

with skin physiology. The conferences

Experts from all over the world, such as physiologists, biochemists, dermatologists and pharmacologists present results of their

commercial topic or research based on the promotion of active ingredients.

The closing date for paper submissions is

latest research on skin (including its multi-

31 August 2016, after which the committee

components, physiology functions, ageing

will confidentially review all the papers.

and microflora) and specific methods of investigation.

The scientific committee will select the best nine researchers to present

The full programme of presentations for SPIM 2016 can be accessed online. Visit www.skin-meeting.com for more information. •

2014 SPIM WINNERS

their results during the fifth SPIM, which

THE SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE chose to share

takes place in Vichy, France on 17 and

the Best Junior Scientist Award and the grant of

18 November. All nine nominees elected

€15 000 between two entries at SPIM 2014. The

The Greentech Awards, in which Natchem is

to present their papers will be sponsored

winners were Quentin Bernard from the Institut

now involved, forms a key part of SPIM. They

travel and accommodation in full by the

de Bactériologie, located in Strasbourg, France,

provide young scientists preparing a PhD

organising committee.

and Soufiane Boumahdi from the University Libre

CALLING ALL YOUNG SCIENTISTS

or post PhD an opportunity to present their results orally to the scientific committee. The

TOPICS AND PRESENTATIONS

SPIM Best Junior Scientist is awarded prize money in the form of a research grant to the value of €15 000.

Participants are also able to present a poster focusing on a particular topic relating to skin physiology. The SPIM Best Poster is chosen by way of votes by all SPIM

SPIM BEST JUNIOR SCIENTIST IS AWARDED PRIZE MONEY IN THE FORM OF A RESEARCH GRANT TO THE VALUE OF €15 000

de Bruxelles in Belgium.

Bernard, who was working in Nathalie

The fifth SPIM conference,

Boulanger’s laboratory at the time, presented his

which is limited to 250

research findings on Lyme Borreliosis (or lyme

participants worldwide,

disease) and skin TLR2/TLR3 crosstalk during the

promises an interesting array

early transmission of Borrelia.

of discussions focused on

Boumahdi, working in Professor Cédric

four topics: microbiota; hair;

Blanpain’s laboratory, presented research

autophagy; and structure and

findings on Sox2 controls’ tumour initiation and

matrix. The aim of all talks from

cancer stem-cell functions in skin squamous-

experts and junior researchers

cell carcinoma.

is to establish an intensive,

Elodie Metral was the winner of the Best SPIM

scientific and convivial

Poster 2014. Metral was a PhD student working

platform for exchange.

in the Laboratory of Skin Replacement in Lyon

The lineup for the

and in the Laboratory of Nucleic Acids at CEA

2016 event includes

Grenoble, which are both located in France. Her

a presentation by Professor Marla

topic was the regenerative and anti-ageing effect of adipose derived stem cells.

Trindade from the University of the Western

Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

11

COMPANY FOCUS

Made in Africa A producer of speciality plant extracts for personal care applications, Botanica Natural Products (Botanica) is ideally positioned to assist brand owners in meeting the needs of African consumers for more diverse and high quality, natural and organic products.

Photography by Morgan Cardiff

C

oncerns ranging from holistic health and the environment to sustainability and social

responsibility are not exclusive to the Western world. African consumers are also becoming more discerning in their skin, hair and personal care demands, seeking products that celebrate their culture, heritage and the botanical richness of Africa.

Enter Botanica, a South Africanbased, family owned social enterprise

ABOVE Bulbine frutescens plants are cultivated on a 10 hectare plantation near Botanica’s production facility

and organically certified. Our mission

active, which has been developed

is to improve skin health by promoting

and tested in South Africa, is

the use of indigenous plants and

suitable for use in even tone skin

traditional knowledge from Africa,’

care products.

BELOW Botanica’s Bulbine frutescens is cold pressed in its HACCP compliant factory in Limpopo

says Will Coetsee, managing director

The active is formulated using a

at Botanica. ‘Our agricultural

targeted extract from the leaves of

processes used to cultivate 10

the Carob tree, Ceratonia siliqua. By

hectares of Bulbine and Moringa

inhibiting the production of melanin

plants are Ecocert approved. We

in a safe manner, BotanicaLite has

also distribute a range of actives for

been proven to address severe

cosmetics, throughout Africa and

pigmentation issues in African

further abroad.’

consumers. It is naturally plant

Botanica’s innovative plant

derived, irritant-free and cost-

extracts are marketed and supplied

effective. The efficacy of three

to personal care manufacturers in

percent BotanicaLite in a cosmetic

African ingredient concepts. Located

Africa, Europe, the US and Asia. ‘At

formulation to inhibit tyrosinase has

in rural Limpopo, the company

least 90 percent of our sales are

been verified in South Africa during

offers both organically certified

exports,’ he adds. ‘Currently, our

independent in vitro and in vivo tests.

and conventionally produced plant

largest customer base is located in

In vivo protocol saw the BotanicaLite

extracts for use in a variety of personal

West and Central Africa, with our

formulation tested against three

care applications.

market share growing steadily in

commercially available skin

East Africa.

lightening actives, namely Arbutin,

established in 2009 with the focus on developing a variety of interesting

‘We aim to produce cosmetic ingredients that are effective, affordable

12

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

IMPROVING SKIN’S APPEARANCE

Kojic acid and Niacinamide. Results showed even toning and brightening of the skin after 28 days of use of

Africa’s search for a safe and

BotanicaLite and, when used in

relevant alternative to traditional skin

conjunction with Niacinamide,

lightening ingredients is finally over

positive results were seen after only

with the launch of BotanicaLite. This

14 days.

COMPANY FOCUS Leaves from the organic Bulbine frutescens plants are washed before processing

SHARING KNOWLEDGE FOR INNOVATION BOTANICA IS HOSTING its second technical conference at its production facility in Limpopo, South Africa, on 6 and 7 September. The focus of the conference will be natural active ingredients produced and distributed by the company, which are used in skin and hair care products. About 20 participants from Europe, West Africa and South Africa are expected to attend to gain access to expert scientific information and presentations on its range of natural active ingredients and applications.

LEAF JUICE FOR COSMETICS

Participants will also tour the company’s production facility and its cultivation fields.

The company’s flagship offering,

adds: ‘Our oil is microbiologically

BotanicaTimola is a cosmetic

controlled and has full traceability.

raw material extracted from the

The powerful antioxidants and high

South African indigenous plant,

levels of omega fatty acids found

Bulbine frutescens. It has a long

in good quality, unadulterated

history of traditional use in South

Marula oil are known to restructure

Africa as an effective remedy

and regenerate skin cells, while

for various topical skin, scalp

protecting it against the damaging

and hair conditions. This is as a

effects of the environment. When

result of its healing, soothing and

used in topical applications, the

moisturising qualities.

oil has been shown to improve

‘This unique product has shown

skin hydration, smoothness and

to be highly effective as an active ingredient in skin and hair care

seeds of the Moringa oleifera trees

formulations, even when used at

on its 10ha plantation in Limpopo.

a small percentage,’ says Michel

‘Our oil is high in antioxidants, has

Colson, technical director and co-

nourishing and emollient properties

founder of Botanica. ‘It is available

and can be used in a number of

in two grades. BotanicaTimola

cosmetic applications including

is the more refined, processed

creams, lotions, liquid soaps, liquid

grade, which is marketed as

foundations, massage oils, leave-in

an active, while BotanicaSap

conditioners, relaxers, hair dyes

is designed as its cost-effective

and other applications,’

alternative and aimed at the

Colson explains. ‘Moringa

soap industry.’

oil also moisturises dry skin,

Through the commercialisation

improves the appearance

process, the company developed

of wrinkles, minimises age

and patented the extraction

spots as a result of acne

technique of the water-based

or hyperpigmentation and

BotanicaTimola. This is to ensure

rejuvenates ageing skin.’

the product can be marketed

The company also

to the cosmetics industry as an

sells Marula oil for use in

active ingredient.

cosmetics which is extracted

SELECTION OF AFRICAN OILS

from the kernels of the fruit of birrea. The tree is indigenous to southern Africa and parts of East

and highly prized for its antioxidant

and West Africa.

and skin rejuvenating qualities,

Botanica’s Marula oil is a filtered,

has been naturalised in Africa for

high quality cosmetic grade; it

over 500 years. Botanica offers an

is unrefined to ensure its active

organically certified variation of

ingredients and the antioxidant

this oil, which is extracted from the

fractions are preserved. Colson

reduce redness. It is suitable for all skin types, particularly reactive and sensitive skin.’

A COMPANY WITH A CONSCIENCE As an ethical and socially responsible business, Botanica operates according to the highest

BOTANICALITE HAS BEEN PROVEN TO ADDRESS SEVERE PIGMENTATION ISSUES IN AFRICAN CONSUMERS

the marula tree, Sclerocarya

Moringa oil, widely recognised

All specification tests on BotanicaTimola are done in house and each batch is issued with a certificate of analysis

ethical standards and ensures that ethical practices exist throughout its value chain, from production to end-use.

The company’s organic production methods also ensure the sustainable preservation of biodiversity.

As a result of these and other ongoing efforts, Botanica has won several awards. These include the Indigenous Plant Use Forum’s Best Indigenous

plant product for 2014; the SEED Initiative’s Social Enterprise and Accelerator Awards; and an AfricaGrowth Institute Business Innovation Award. •

Botanica Natural Products – www.timola.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

13

ETHNIC CARE

The business of black hair Wacker, an industry leader in producing silicone chemical raw materials, offers a wide range of silicone products to meet the specific needs of the personal care industry in Africa. These include fluids, emulsions, gels, resins and elastomers.

T

he growing middle class and rising disposable income in Kenya, Ghana and Nigeria – Africa’s key countries for business development – are seeing increased investment by

international players in the hair care segment.

According to Euromonitor International, these countries are also witnessing growth in professional hair care salons and increased finished product quality.

Through various research projects specifically

DID YOU KNOW?

Wacker has a number of products that allow for enhanced conditioning, while offering

Wacker’s superior technical know-how and state-of-the-art laboratory facilities allow for various testing and the development of successful formulations to help customers meet the unique demands of the African market.

focused on the Ethnic care market, Wacker is able to better serve customers throughout Africa. It also caters to the unique market demands on the continent through a dedicated team based in the region.

SILICONES FOR STRAIGHTENING AND CONDITIONING In shampoos and conditioners, for example, silicones protect the hair fibres and ensure they are soft, smooth, shiny and easy to comb.

straightening benefits to Ethnic hair.

Belsil P 1101 combines the strong hold properties of a hair styling resin with typical silicone properties like softness and silkiness. This silicone organic hybrid material is ideal for use in hair straightening products because of its strong hold in addition to the high water content

that can be formulated without compromising hold, silky feel and quick drying times.

An excellent conditioning additive, Belsil DM 3560 VP is ideal for use in shampoos and rinse-off or leave- in conditioners. It improves wet and dry combability, as well as the wet and dry feel of the hair.

Belsil ADM 6102 E is an aqueous macro-emulsion of an amino-functional silicone, which has been optimised to deliver excellent hair conditioning properties. This product adheres well to the surface of the hair, does not crosslink and makes hair easy to comb while providing softness to even severely damaged hair.

Imparting a natural silky softness, the silicone microemulsion Belsil ADM 8301 E is highly suitable for ethnic hair products. Its benefits include enhanced combability, colour loss prevention and protection against heat damage. As a translucent micro-emulsion, Belsil ADM 8301 E allows manufacturers to formulate transparent products.

A PERFECT COMBINATION HTEssence, the first nature-identical hydroxytyrosol, and Belsil silicones open up a wealth of new possibilities for functional skin and hair care products. The biggest advantage is realised when using HTEssence and Belsil silicones in combination, especially in conditioners, where the silicone ‘seals’ the active, increasing the protective effect on dyed hair.

HTEssence, used in a

Wacker – www.wacker.com

hair mask for example, results in hair looking healthier for longer.

It also assists in preventing colour fade and prevents hair from rapidly becoming brittle. •

14

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

ETHNIC CARE

Rethinking green solutions The movement towards renewable materials and biodegradable ingredients is gaining momentum in Africa’s cosmetics and personal care industry. Unicare reveals its latest offerings in line with these trends.

Based on the Nobel Prize-winning

metathesis process, ERS has transformed renewable (plant) oils into novel, high-performing ester, olefin and triglyceride molecules, leveraging the complexity of plant

ome brands find using

S

from mineral oils derived from

oils to make novel high performance

certified natural and

crude oil.

new materials. functional polymer that provides

and challenging. Alternatives are

A FIRST FOR SUBSAHARAN AFRICA

biodegradable ingredients and those

According to Unicare, its

thickener with film-forming

produced from renewable resources.

technology partner, Novvi

These are believed to be a more

LLC has handed over all

cost-effective solution to produce

consumer care product

products that meet consumers’

development to the South

needs for green and environmentally

African company. This

friendly offerings.

translates to a unique

organic ingredients in their formulations rather costly

Naatium Oleam from Unichem

Elevance Soft CG-100 is a multi-

opportunity for home grown

Services was recently launched in the

brands to become early

market by its consumer care division,

adopters of the technology.

Unicare Ingredients. This range of

formulators with a structural, oil-phase

NAATIUM OLEAM IS FUNDAMENTALLY ABOUT FUNCTIONALITY, SPECIFICALLY EMOLLIENCY

Due to the customised nature

capabilities. These polymers follow the free-from trend in terms of PEG, paraben, petrolatum and silicone, and ultimately reduce formulation and business complexity.

Elevance Smooth CS-110 is a low melting point, noncrystalline polymer based 100 percent on soy bean oil.

renewable hydrocarbon molecules

of Unicare’s offering, coupled with

It thickens or structures the oil phase

derived from sugar cane, is based

Naatium Oleam’s well-established

in aqueous and non-aqueous

on a ground-breaking synthetic

toxicology profile, finished product

formulations, and is a semi-occlusive

biology platform whereby yeast

opportunities transcend the

film-former.

cells consume sugar to create pure

full spectrum of personal care

hydrocarbon building blocks that are

categories, from baby to hair care.

converted to functional molecules.

Both molecules have already been received positively in the global market finding application in a broad

specifically emolliency. A structural

RENEWABLE ALTERNATIVES NOW A REALITY

similarity to squalane is the basis for

Unicare’s partnership with Elevance

for the INCI names (Hydrogenated

this functionality, which allows the

Renewable Sciences (ERS)

Soya Bean Oil, Hydrogenated Soy

formulator to target performance

broadens the scope of

Polyglycerides, C15-23 Alkane),

levels achievable with natural-based

renewable materials

hitting shelves across the globe. •

oils such as Argan or Olive oil, as

available to the sub-

well as providing alternatives for

Saharan African

formulators looking to move away

market even further.

The positioning of Naatium Oleam is fundamentally about functionality,

range of formulations, particularly in the challenging and competitive ethnic hair care space. Look out

Unicare – www.unicare.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

15

Extracts from Licorice Root, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, and the false rhubarb, Rheum rhaponticum, have been incorporated into Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening

ETHNIC CARE

Brightening with botanicals In line with the demand for safe, natural actives for skin lightening applications, Textron’s Victoria Donat, with the help of Anna Martí, highlights the benefits of a novel oil-based botanical skin brightener, Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening.

most obvious cellular targets

V

lightening) agents. Notably,

naturalness, preservative-free

for whitening agents is Since 2000, scientific literature on tyrosinase inhibition shows that a large amount of the research conducted has been devoted mostly to the examination of

and thermal stability. To

DID YOU KNOW?

the enzyme tyrosinase.

achieve this, a broad study was performed to

Fair skin is a top priority for identify vegetable oils Nigerian consumers. Currently, and natural botanical the Nigerian FDA permits extracts to obtain two percent hydroquinone a single lipid phase in skin care formulations, yet with skin lightening, manufacturers are known to include anything in excess hydrating and of five percent. nourishing activities.

new depigmenting (or

Using our knowledge and experience to combine

arious dermatological

many of these studies deal with

disorders, such as melasma,

tyrosinase inhibitors from natural sources

drastic skin treatments with negative side

age spots, and sites of

and are generally of Asian origin. A

effects, a number of identified vegetable

actinic damage arise from

number of tyrosinase inhibitors, both

extracts were selected as ingredients for

the accumulation of an excessive level

from natural and synthetic sources, have

the projected product. The outcome was

of epidermal pigmentation. Although

been identified.

Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening (Olus oil, Aloe

melanin mainly has a photo-protective

efficacy and care, while avoiding

Traditionally, skin lightening has been

Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Carotenoids,

function in human skin, the accumulation

performed using aggressive chemical

Rheum rhaponticum Root Extract,

of an abnormal amount of melanin

agents. The development of preparations

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate,

in specific parts of the skin results in

to address hyper-pigmented lesions

Glabridin and Tocopherol). This product,

pigmented patches.

or safely achieve overall whitening is

formulated and designed at Textron,

among the greatest challenges in the

incorporates top-range natural plant

cosmetics industry.

oils and synergetic bioactive principles

In the Western culture it is still considered desirable to have tanned skin. Despite warnings about the consequences of

Classic skin whiteners, such as

extracted from select botanical species

excessive sun or UV exposure, the artificial

hydroquinone, kojic acid or mercury

to achieve excellent lightening and

tanning industry has expanded rapidly in

compounds may act as carcinogens or

regenerating characteristics. The raw

the last decade. However, in Eastern and

cause other harmful or damaging effects.

materials were specially selected for

African markets, an age old tradition exists

In many cases, they are banned in some

optimum performance, intensive skin care,

whereby a light complexion is regarded as

markets and limited in others. As a result,

and self preservation.

a symbol of youth and beauty. In recent

interest is growing in botanicals extracts.

years, the interest in skin lightening or whitening has grown tremendously.

PLANT ACTIVES GAIN TRACTION

Used as photo-protectives and/or antioxidants, these extracts offer multiple

were assessed by methods of analysis set

biological actions on the skin and are

by European Pharmacopeia (EP). Fatty

more cost-effective than traditional skin lighteners.

One of

They are also believed to

the

be safer. Furthermore, the additive properties exerted by the phyto-constituents of plant actives make them highly suitable ingredients for use in cosmetics formulations.

INNOVATING WITH BOTANICAL EXTRACTS

16

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

Acid, peroxide and saponification values, as well as density measurement

acids were determined by

TEXTRON AIMED TO DEVELOP A NOVEL LIPIDBASED SKIN LIGHTENER WITH THE ABILITY TO REPLACE SYNTHETIC BIOACTIVES

gas chromatography, also according to EP standards.

Viscosity was measured in a Brookfield viscosimeter, with R1 spindle, at 23.5°C and 100rpm. Organoleptic properties were noted by visual inspection and the oil stability index was determined using a Rancimat instrument. The result was an oily liquid with a pleasant, slight

Textron aimed to develop a novel lipid-

fruity odour, mild acidity and viscosity.

based skin lightener and personal care

It also boasts good oxidative stability, is

product with the ability to replace synthetic

rich in highly beneficial oleic and linoleic

bioactives. Additional qualities intended

fatty acids, and is fully suitable for use

for the potential product included safety,

in cosmetics.

ETHNIC CARE ABOUT

ENHANCED EASE OF USE

making it both highly stable

Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening incorporates lipid

and preservative-free. It can

phase and bioactive principles. This allows

be applied directly to the skin, or used

manufacturers of cosmetics to replace

to replace the lipid phase in oil-based

chemical raw materials and synthetic

formulations in skin lightening and/or sun

bioactives with a vegetable-based raw

protection applications. Besides reducing

material and bioactive principles in one

skin pigmentation, this new plant-based,

step. It can be easily incorporated into a

lipo-soluble skin brightener also hydrates,

formulation, fully replacing the lipid phase.

protects and nourishes the skin.

This makes the manufacturing process

Sci. 2009, 10, 5326-5349.

easier, avoiding the steps of solubilisation

REFERENCES

or stabilisation of the whitening active

• C. Jennifer, CM Stephie, SB Abhisiri and UB

• TS Chang. 2009. An updated Review of

principles. There is also no need to add

Shalini. 2012. A review on skin whitening

chemical lightening agents, which might

property of plant extracts. Int J Pharm Bio Sci

be detrimental to the naturalness and safety of the finished product. These agents potential competitive inhibition of Evoil

prevention of photo-ageing and skin cancer.

Hydrasoft Lightening.

International Journal of Research in Cosmetic

Lightening is formulated on an oil basis,

2440-2475.

• W Zhu and J Gao. 2008. The use of botanical extracts as topical skin lightening agents

2012 Oct; 3(4): (B) 332 - 347.

2011. Botanical as sunscreens: their role in the

Unlike most water-based skin lightening

Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2009, 10,

for the improvement of skin pigmentation

• KP Balakrishnan and N Narayanaswamy.

may also affect the efficacy or cause a

actives on the market, Evoil Hydrasoft

Victoria Donat Donat, PhD, is the technical manager at Grupo Plimon, the holding company of Textron. She has more than 15 years’ experience in R&D at several leading companies and applied research centres in the areas of biomedical, agrifood and chemical or pharmaceuticals. Donat currently handles all technical and regulatory affairs at Grupo Plimon, providing technical support and developing new products and applications.

disorders. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2008) 13, 20–2.

• H Ozeki, S Ito, K Wakamatsu and T Hirobe. 1995.

Chemical characterisation of hair melanins in

Science 2011; 1 (1) : 1-12.

• N Smit, J Vicanova and S Pavel. 2009. The hunt for natural skin whitening agents. Int. J. Mol.

Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email: sales@cirebelle.com

various coat-colour mutants of mice. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 105, 3, 361-366.

www.cirebelle.com

CIREBELLE Waxes • CIREBELLE Beads • CIREBELLE Blends • CIREBELLE Softsphere™ Cirebelle HP.indd 1

2016/06/09 2:57 PM

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

17

ETHNIC CARE

A targeted solution for African hair An innovative ingredient from Croda, Crodazoquat MCC, presents formulators with a complete multicultural conditioning solution. This ingredient is set to assist customers in overcoming the challenges associated with formulating for the unique characteristics of African hair.

T

care revolution amongst black millennial Africans has brought with it a

new awareness of the types of damage that hair can be exposed to and their effects.

This knowledge and vigour to restore damaged hair could be one of the reasons why damaged hair solutions have risen in importance in the hair care industry. From 2010 to 2015, 26 percent of global hair care launches claimed

concerns – are all related to hair damage (see Table 1).

A CLOSER LOOK AT CONDITIONING Conditioners remain one of the

alone, damaged hair claims ranked

damage. When Croda carried out

in the global top five for all hair care

a market study in Johannesburg,

products launched (Mintel GNPD).

South Africa, to ascertain how widely available conditioners are for black

KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF AFRICAN HAIR Sources of damage range from

African hair, its research team was surprised by the findings.

According to Croda, very few

regular grooming like combing,

conditioning products are being

towel drying, blow drying, relaxing

developed for the black African

to environmental factors such as

with damaged hair. Out of the eight

humidity and pollution, or illness,

brands on shelf, only one offered a

stress, ageing and diet.

conditioner specifically targeted at

BY USING CETEARYL ALCOHOL AS THE SOLVENT, CRODA HAS EFFECTIVELY DEVELOPED AN INGREDIENT WITH OVER 80 PERCENT NATURAL CONTENT

black consumers. This could be due

prone to damage and the

to various reasons, though recent

effects can sometimes be

advances in hair care technology

worse on this hair type. This is

should see an increase in solutions

because it is flat in shape (not

targeted at African hair care.

round or oval shaped), has a

An example of a recent

lower moisture and oil content

development is Croda’s new

and ranges in form from wavy to

conditioning ingredient,

very tight curls. These properties

Crodazoquat MCC (Behentrimonium

do not help when the hair is

Methosulfate, Quaternium-87,

exposed to sources of damage.

Cetearyl Alcohol). Thanks to its

For example, nourishing sebum

hybrid technology, which has been

that is naturally produced in the

optimised to provide excellent

scalp does not flow all the way

conditioning benefits, this ingredient

down the curly or wavy hair fibre,

is perfect for developing conditioners

from root to tip, as it would do

for the African market.

to repair damaged hair, which was

on straighter hair. This results in less

an increase of 24 percent. In 2015

hydrated hair.

Claims linked to Crodazoquat MCC include: ‘restores

Tight curls also create stress at Table 1: The various hair care concerns of African consumers ranging from the most to least prominent

frizz – four of the top five African hair

best solutions for addressing hair

African hair is especially he recent natural hair

that breakage, dryness, fall-out and

hydrophobicity of hair’; ‘improves

each turn in the hair fibre, leaving it

hair’s aesthetics including lustre and

weak and fragile. It is not surprising

volume’; and ‘proven to be especially effective on damaged hair’.

This conditioning ingredient is also interesting in terms of its composition.

Top African Hair Concerns

Despite its high cationic activity

80

at 70 percent, the product does

70

not contain any synthetic glycol

60

or volatile organic compounds. By using Cetearyl Alcohol as the solvent,

50

%

Croda has effectively developed an

40

ingredient (Crodazoquat MCC) with

30

over 80 percent natural content.

The ingredient manufacturer’s

20

ultimate goal with Crodazoquat

10

MCC was to provide excellent

0

e

Br

18

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a ak

D

ne ry

ff

ru

d an

D

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

F

t

ou

lal

izz

dy

y

ilit

Fr

M

an

ag

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performance, especially on damaged hair. To determine the ingredient’s efficacy on actual African hair types, Crodazoquat

ETHNIC CARE Table 2: Results of the dynamic contact angle test

MCC was subjected to a series of tests with panellists in Johannesburg, South Africa.

PUT TO THE TEST In a half-head salon study

100

Virgin Hair Hydrophobicity

75

Increased Hydrophobicity

Advancing Contact 50 Angle

conducted on African hair at Croda’s Centre of Excellence, a conditioning formulation containing Crodazoquat MCC was compared

20

to a commercial African hair conditioner benchmark (see Table 3 for formulation details).

0

Three main attributes of African hair concerns were added to the

Coloured Asian

Bleached European

Relaxed Brazilian

Relaxed African

standard evaluation list, being breakage, mass volume (density)

Crodazoquat MCC

Untreated

and ease of styling. A higher score on all attributes indicated angle test was also performed

concluded that Crodazoquat MCC

to determine the amount of

improves the surface hydrophobicity

revealed the conditioner containing

Crodazoquat MCC required to restore

of hair.

Crodazoquat MCC outperformed the

hair’s hydrophobicity (see Table 2).

better performance.

Test results from the panel

commercial benchmark for both the natural virgin and relaxed hair.

An instrumental dynamic contact Table 3: Formulation guide for replenishing deep conditioner for African hair (HP-409)

advancing dynamic contact angle

HELPING CUSTOMERS INNOVATE

was observed on relaxed African

With the emergence of effective

hair, coloured Asian hair, bleached

technologies such as Crodazoquat

Caucasian hair and relaxed Brazilian

MCC, brand owners and

hair. From these results, it can be

manufacturers can now develop

An increase in the average

products targeted at black PHASE

INGREDIENT

A

Water

B

C

INCI NAME

%

consumers to restore damaged hair.

87.50

As a hybrid technology, the ingredient has an exciting range

Arlasilk PLN

(Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dimethicone, Aqua)

1.00

Crodazoquat MCC

(Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Quaternium-87, Cetearyl Alcohol)

2.00

have been shown to be effective on

Crodacol CS50

(Cetearyl Alcohol)

6.00

African hair. Ultimately, Crodazoquat

DuraQuench IQ SA

(Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Isostearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Stearate, Stearic Acid)

1.00

Cropure Almond

(Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil)

0.50

Cropure Apricot Kernel

(Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil)

0.50

Keravis PE

(Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Aqua)

1.00

Euxyl K712

(Water, Sodium, Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate)

0.50

Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is a supplier of locally manufactured and importer of speciality and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care, Homecare, Pharmaceutical and Industrial markets.

“Our expertise, your solution”

ChemSystems.indd 1

of conditioning capabilities, which

MCC promotes hair health by restoring natural hydrophobicity and enhancing hair’s aesthetics in a consumer perceivable way. •

Croda – www.croda.com

Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Email thureya.sarlie@Chemsystems.co.za Technical Wesley Perumal Tel +27 (0)11 922 1721 Email wesley.perumal@Chemsystems.co.za AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park

Chemsystems a division of AECI

2016/06/14 11:09 AM

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

19

ETHNIC CARE

Blurred lines A new generation of personal care products is emerging with multifunctional benefits.

Kim MacCallum from Vantage SA explores this trend and the ingredients best suited to developing products that offer several advantages to the consumer.

C

DID YOU KNOW?

ross-category influence in beauty and

trend started off with the launch of the BB cream format, which not only brightens the

REALISING JOJOBA’S POTENTIAL In line with the multifunctional

colour cosmetics. This is

Research analysts from Technavio predict the global personal care ingredients market to register a CAGR of around five percent between 2016 and 2020.

The growing demand for personal care products is the major growth driver for this market.

according to a hair care

Source: Technavio’s report Global

and anti-ageing properties.

popularity within the skin and hair

Personal Care Ingredients

The makeup category has

care markets. New studies and

personal

care is becoming increasingly common, with overlaps occurring in skin and hair care and

report published by Mintel at

Market 2016 to 2020

the end of 2013. In March of 2016, the global research consultancy

complexion and offers

developing ingredients that offer

also provides evenness

cross-category benefits. Jojoba oil

in skin tone. Some BB

is a leading example. The benefits

cream variations also

of jojoba are becoming more

include SPF protection

and more apparent as it grows in

also inspired recent innovations in hair care, such as the hair

noted this rising trend spreading

style-extender that locks a style into

throughout the Middle East, India and

place for a longer period and hair

Africa, stating that ‘women of today

foundations for touching-up regrowth

are taking on multiple roles, from managing their careers to running households and looking after their families’.

With limited time to themselves, modern women require personal care

FORMULATORS CAN NOW CREATE A CLEAR SHAMPOO WITH SHEA BUTTER

products that are easy to use and provide multifunctional benefits.

As a result, Mintel has noted the emergence of products that offer several benefits rolled into one. The

or greying locks.

There is also a rising interest

data are being made available on just how beneficial Jojoba is to hair and skin.

With the purchase of the Desert Whale company a few years ago and more recently, Agrinsa in Argentina, Vantage Specialty

in hair perfumes among

Chemicals is now the world’s largest

African consumers. This

producer of Jojoba oil. Thanks to

product format offers both

its leading position, the company

the standalone option and

has conducted extensive research

an extension to fragrance

on the jojoba plant and the

ancillaries and bath and

various types of products that can

body collections.

Besides leaving hair smelling fresh, hair perfumes provide protection against UV damage, prevent colour from fading, and help hair to

Figure 1: Microscopic images reveal positive results after just one wash of a shampoo formulation containing 5.5 percent Jojoba Pro-HP

trend, raw materials’ suppliers are

renewed radiance, but

be produced.

One such example is Jojoba ProHP. This is a solution of hydrolysed jojoba protein derived from the jojoba seed. This unique, non-

retain maximum moisture

allergenic protein acts as a natural

and nourishment.

moisturiser and has exceptional film forming properties, both in skin and hair care applications. In hair care formulations, Jojoba Pro-HP repairs damage and improves shine. Due to its high amino acid content, the solution has an amphoteric charge that creates an affinity to the hair follicle. When used at 5.5 percent in a shampoo, positive results are seen after one wash (see Figure 1).

These include cuticle smoothing and visible repair of the follicle. Its versatility means it can be used in hair masks, treatments, serums, shampoos and conditioners. In skin care, it can be used to nourish and illuminate tiered and dull skin.

20

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

ETHNIC CARE

Vantage recommends Jojoba

based cleansing products,

Pro-HP be used at one to five

and provides the softening and

percent in a formulation.

conditioning properties associated

CLEAR FORMULATIONS WITH SHEA

with solid Shea butter.

With this ingredient innovation, formulators can now create a

Liponate SB-50, also available from

clear shampoo with Shea butter,

Vantage, is another ingredient

providing consumers with the

offering multiple benefits. It is a 50

unique benefits of Shea in a wash-

mole ethoxylate of Shea butter,

off product.

making it a water dispersible

Panel tests were conducted

emollient specifically developed for

using a shampoo with 2.5 percent

aqueous-based formulations.

Liponate SB-50 and the results were

Shea butter is an off- white fat

impressive. A marked improvement

extracted from the nut of the African

was noticed in the conditioning,

shea tree. It is a triglyceride derived

wet combing and drying time of

mainly from stearic acid and oleic

the hair.

acid. The history of Shea butter can

The recommended use level

be traced back to Ancient Egypt,

for this product is between one

where it was used to protect the hair

and five percent. It is suitable for

and skin against the sun and the

use in a variety of applications

hot dry winds of the African deserts

from shampoos and leave-in

and savannah.

conditioners to bath and body care

This liquid Shea butter is easy to

Vantage demonstrates the clarity of its liquid shea butter offering using two shampoo samples, one formulated with Liponate SB-50 (left) and the other without (right)

ABOUT Kim MacCallum joined the Vantage SA team in 2013. She holds a BSc in natural health, and has completed the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science.

MacCallum has been an active member of Coschem since 2004, and currently sits on the council.

products. In a face wash or shower

handle and can be used both in hot

cream, Liponate SB-50 offers the

and cold process applications. It

most luxurious of foams with good

also adds emolliency to surfactant-

moisturising benefits. •

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – www.vantagespecialties.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

21

COMPANY FOCUS

A pioneering spirit in Africa Changing lives through innovation, preserving beauty, adding colour and convenience to everyday offerings, and ensuring better access to health care have been at the centre of Merck’s international efforts for 350 years. By Abby Vorster

I

demanding applications. The company is the largest supplier of effect pigments worldwide and is regarded as a major innovator in this area of business.

Its functional materials portfolio includes active skin care ingredients such as antiaging actives, anti-oxidants

been active since 1971, though

as well as anti-acne actives,

recent developments within the

and safe and effective skin

global company have seen it

lightening ingredients, which

earmarking Africa for considerable

are of particular interest

growth and expansion.

to the African market.

Merck also supplies a

around 400 people across 10

comprehensive range

African countries and aims to

of UV filters, both

increase this number to around

organic and inorganic

1000 by 2020.

filters, as well as

Merck’s largest location is South Africa. Here the company operates three

some specialty glass encapsulated UV filters.

To complement this

divisions: Life Science

range, its functional

with the recent Sigma

fillers enhance

integration; Health Care;

its customers’

and Performance Materials.

formulations

The performance materials

in a number

division spans pigments and

of ways. These

functional materials with a strong

include improving

focus on high quality solutions.

the appearance of

‘In terms of our pigments and

the product, providing

functional materials, we offer

superior skin feel, or, most

unmatched batch consistency.

importantly, assisting in

For the cosmetics industry, our

supporting a product’s claims.

strengths lie in strong efficacy

These pigments can act as skin

data and claim support, as

correctors or enhancers. They

well as specialist innovative

DID YOU KNOW?

products like our glass encapsulated sunscreen

Merck plays an important role in building health care capacity in Africa, addressing non-communicable diseases, with a focus on rural areas, medical students and local partnerships with academia, ministries of health, policy makers and governments.

Source: Belen Garijo, CEO of

active in the Eusolex UV-Pearls range, which represent a new dimension in UV protection,’ comments Karen Maier, sales and marketing manager for performance

materials.

A BEAUTIFUL APPROACH Driven by a passion for new ideas, Merck’s performance materials

22

speciality chemicals for particularly

n sub-Saharan Africa, Merck has

The company currently employs

Merck Healthcare

division is also known to develop

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

also provide improved product efficiency like enhancing the slip of an eye shadow.

Merck’s application kits for the cosmetics

COMPANY FOCUS

industry are particularly innovative, catching the attention of customers by showcasing pigments, functional fillers, actives and other

BRAND BUILDING IN AFRICA Addressing

unique ingredients in cosmetics

unmet medical

applications. Through this targeted

needs on the

and interactive approach, delivered

African continent

during workshops and customer

is another major objective of

days, formulators are able to

Merck. This is why the company’s

experience the benefits and true

growth strategy for Africa mainly

value of Merck’s personal care

encompasses its health care and

and cosmetics ingredients. The

life science businesses. It has

company also offers assistance

earmarked 2016 as the year of

with colour matching and colour

investment for Merck’s consumer

combinations, while its high-

health business in selected African

quality pigments ensure batch-to-

countries, focusing specifically on its

batch consistency.

Merck’s decorative pigments

prescription-free, over-the-counter (OTC) pharmaceutical products.

can enhance a formulation in

The company also plans to market

many ways. They provide an on-skin

its well-known brands Seven Seas,

sparkle or improve the aesthetic

Femibion and Neurobion in Africa.

appeal of a cream for example.

AFRICA’S MUSE

Discussing the company’s

TOWARDS THE END of November 2015, Merck launched the sale of its Muse cell analyser, which is used to detect HIV. The Muse Auto CD4/ CD4 percent system is now available in several African countries for monitoring patients’ specific T-lymphocyte cell counts. These are standard indicators of when to begin treatment for opportunistic infections, initiate antiretroviral therapy, and monitor the progression of diseases such as HIV. This system, which is a low cost platform, enables the rapid, simple and accurate monitoring of these key parameters in adults and children.

In addition, the Muse Auto CD4/CD4 percent system combines a compact, integrated benchtop instrument with a unique proprietary assay and automated gating and acquisition software to easily monitor patients’ CD4 T lymphocytes. Minimum technical expertise is needed to operate and obtain high quality results while a user-friendly touchscreen interface and intuitive software work together to simplify operation and analysis.

These pigments are also ideal for

strategy to adjust its value

use with claims associated with

proposition to the needs of the

after the health of one’s family.

radiance, brilliance, luminosity,

African continent, Johann Kotze,

Not only does Merck have various

and glow, transforming an ordinary

Merck’s general manager,

strengths as a consumer health

emulsion into a targeted night or day cream.

All of the aforementioned

Intercontinental – Africa for

care expert, it is also the oldest

consumer health, says: ‘Our drive

pharmaceuticals and chemicals

is built around the proposition of

company in the world. ‘These

products are available from Orkila,

having focused investment into

characteristics provide the ideal

which looks after customers in

relevant markets where we have

platform to be a trusted brand for

the cosmetics industry, in Kenya,

evaluated the categories in which

consumers,’ he adds. ‘Merck has

Nigeria, Ghana, Ivory Coast

we are active. This evaluation was

been very fortunate that in the

and Algeria, on behalf of Merck.

conducted through consumer

markets it has entered, the company

This is because there are great

insights and extensive consumer

has achieved a strong market

synergies between Orkila’s existing

research. Africa is not one

position in the majority of cases.

portfolio and what Merck offers, so

homogeneous group of markets;

In South Africa, Iliadin and Slow

customers can expect to have all

each region and even countries

Mag are market leaders in their

their needs met.

have distinct differences both in

respective categories and have

consumer attitudes to health care,

been for more than a decade.

specifically OTCs. Their access and

This has given us a lot of trust

levels of knowledge around the OTC

among consumers. In Africa,

medicines environment also differ.’

the Seven Seas brand has

MERCK’S SAFE AND EFFECTIVE SKIN LIGHTENING INGREDIENTS ARE OF PARTICULAR INTEREST TO THE AFRICAN MARKET

As a company, Merck believes it

a heritage of more than

is equally important to build brands

30 years in the eastern

as it is to raise awareness around

and western regions,

self-medication, nutrition and

with consumer often

specific therapeutic areas. ‘This

remarking “I grew up with

education process alongside our

this brand”.’

consumer insights will lead the way

In addition to selling

to finding ways of delighting African

products in Africa, Merck

consumers in their respective

aims to tap into the continent’s

markets,’ he adds.

potential for cutting-edge innovation. Merck believes this will

A STRONG HERITAGE COUNTS

help shape the future of Africa,

In the proliferated OTC medicines

global challenges. •

while inspiring solutions to tackle

environment, Kotze says that when choosing a brand, trust and comfort are vital when it comes to looking

Merck – www.merck.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

23

PERSONAL CARE

Increased urbanisation and sophistication Botanically based, scientifically proven personal care products are on the rise in Africa. This is thanks to the emerging middle class and consumer demand for more sophisticated products.

Savannah Fine Chemicals highlights a variety of ingredient innovations in line with this trend.

C

onsumers in Nigeria,

other emulsifiers. It also improves

particularly among

the stability of emulsions.

the middle income and high income

groups, are looking beyond simple bar soap offerings for their bath and body care needs. According to Euromonitor International, they are even prone to purchasing more expensive products such as

DID YOU KNOW?

The properties of Creamy

and combability.

Glossy Shea is also an excellent re-fattening agent

According to market in body washes and hair research company, shampoos, and reduces effect, which reduces Technavio, the beauty the roughness caused by the roughness caused and personal care market in Africa is expected to surfactants. With its high by surfactants in body grow at a CAGR of 8.24 content in un-saponifiable washes and soaps. It is percent over the matter (tocopherols, also easy to formulate with, period 2014 to triterpenic alcohols, phytosterols suitable for anhydrous formulas, 2019.

Shea include a restructuring

introduced in the fat phase of an

and kariten etc.), Olvea Glossy

movements in the market are seeing

emulsion, and offers nourishing and

Shea has considerable cosmetic

brand owners and manufacturers

revitalising benefits.

properties. These are beneficial in

body wash and shower gel. These

placing increased emphasis on line

According to Olvea, its Creamy

a variety of applications including

extensions and innovation in the

Shea is ideally suited for use in

a daily moisturiser, conditioner,

area of enhanced performance in

the following finished products:

powdery body lotion, and

bath and shower products.

a cocoon body balm; creamy

massage oil.

Olvea Vegetable Oils, represented throughout Africa by

moisturiser; or conditioner.

Shea butter in three varieties for use

GET THE GLOSSY BENEFITS

in skin, hair, and bath and body

Olvea Glossy Shea is an

care products.

effective moisturiser that adds

Savannah Fine Chemicals, offers

CREAMY AND COMFORTING

shine and textural properties to skin and hair care formulations.

It is marketed as a multipurpose

GLOSSY SHEA IS ALSO AN EXCELLENT RE-FATTENING AGENT IN BODY WASHES AND HAIR SHAMPOOS

AS SMOOTH AS SILK Presented as a light-weight alternative to conventional Shea butter, Olvea Silky Shea imparts lightness and a velvety after-feel to skin and hair care formulations. This multipurpose ingredient is rapidly absorbed into the skin, providing an

Olvea Creamy Shea is a new

ingredient, which gives

innovative ester based on a

consistency to a formulation. In

combination of Shea butter and

hair care applications, it offers

the company’s scientific expertise.

smoothing and conditioning

This emollient with co-emulsifying

properties, while its restructuring

spreading properties, and

properties increases the potential of

effect improves hair gloss

enhances the slip or improves the

24

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

instant moisturising effect and radiant glow on skin and hair.

The ingredient has great

PERSONAL CARE

COSMETICS MIRACLE OIL ACCORDING TO A new report by Grand View Research, the global Argan oil market is expected to reach US$1.79 billion by 2022. This is as a result of widening in Argan-based cosmetics product lines and expanding medical application.

The report also mentions the personal care industry is the leading application segment and accounted for over 40 percent of total demand in 2014. The use of Argan oil in cosmetics and personal care products is expected to continue to show significant growth in the coming years with the Middle East and Africa being the main regions worldwide for the production and consumption of the oil.

Savannah Fine Chemicals also distributes Olvea’s Argan oil throughout southern Africa. The company is a leading producer of Argan oil, which contains exceptionally high levels of essential fatty acids. Its content of oleic acid softens and soothes the skin while providing enhanced shine. The oil’s linoleic acid content, an essential fatty acid, gives the hydrating properties.

Argan oil is suitable for use in a variety of personal care applications, including bath oils, body lotions and butters, skin care products and hair conditioners and masks. glide of a finished product. It also reduces the tackiness of heavy formulations.

Possible applications with Silky Shea include a dry body oil, powdery body lotion, shower oil, shine enhancer hair care serum, conditioner, and shampoo.

ALTERNATIVE TO MICRO BEADS Sensocel exfoliating scrubs are pure cellulose granules, which are obtained during a particularly gentle production of different natural raw materials. As a result of their abrasive structure, the exfoliating scrubs are a natural and effective alternative to microplastics like polyethylene beads.

These sustainable and bio-degradable particles are gentle on humans and nature. Their technological properties are as follows: • insoluble and inert plant fibre granules • easy dispersion and easy to process in emulsions • temperature and pH stable ingredients • free from allergens, GMO free, and vegan.

Their functional properties include exfoliation and skin protecting cleansing effects in shower gels and facial cleansers. They also offer a gentle cleansing effect in toothpaste to protect dental enamel and dentine. They have high water binding capacity and oil absorption to support the stabilisation of emulsions.

Sensocel exfoliating scrubs are available in different particle sizes of 50 μm to 800 μm, and can be sourced from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

25

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Generics

A flexible approach to patents

GSK has made significant changes to intellectual property (IP) protection policy, making it possible for manufacturers of generic medicines throughout Africa to produce and supply versions of its medicines.

A

head of a meeting of

(LICs), GSK will not file patents for its

the UN High Level

DID YOU KNOW?

Panel on Access to Medicines

on 31 March, GSK CEO, Sir Andrew Witty, set out a series of steps designed to help bring innovative medicines from the company to more

medicines, so as to give clarity and confidence to generic

The International Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Association strongly supports the negotiation of trade agreements between countries aimed at fostering trade in generic and biosimilar medicines.

people living in the world’s

Source: The National Association of Pharmaceutical

poorest countries.

low income and middle income countries through voluntary licensing arrangements. Expanding

manufacture and supply

this approach to oncology would

generic versions of GSK

enable generic versions of GSK’s

medicines in those

next generation immuno-oncology

countries. For lower

and epigenetic therapies,

middle income countries

currently in clinical development,

(LMICs) generally, the company will file for patents but will seek to offer

Manufacturers.

GSK has a deep commitment

companies seeking to

TB and hepatitis C medicines in

and agree licences to allow

to be made available in LDCs, LICs and certain middle income countries, if and when they receive regulatory approval.

to improving health care by

supplies of generic versions of its

developing innovative new

medicines for 10 years. This offer

medicines and widening access

will even apply for those countries

RETHINKING THE IP BUSINESS MODEL

to them around the world. Over

that move out of LMIC status due

The company will also work towards

the past eight years, it has taken

to increased economic growth

making information about its

steps in a number of areas

during this period. For high income

current and future patent portfolio

including tiered pricing, health care

countries, upper middle income

freely available.

infrastructure building, data sharing

countries and G20 countries, the

and innovative partnerships.

company will continue to seek

is a vital part of health care

The pharmaceutical

Sir Witty comments: ‘IP protection

full patent protection. Any GSK

innovation, providing necessary

manufacturer recognises that

medicines on the World Health

incentives for investment in

improving access around the

Organization’s list of essential

research to create new treatments

world requires a flexible and

medicines will be included in

that can help people around the

multifaceted approach to IP protection. While IP stimulates and underpins continued investment in research and development, GSK believes being flexible with its IP can help address pressing health challenges in developing countries.

Building on this perspective, the company is evolving its graduated approach to filing and enforcing patents so

GSK BELIEVES BEING FLEXIBLE WITH ITS IP CAN HELP ADDRESS PRESSING HEALTH CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING COUNTRIES

that IP protection reflects a country’s economic maturity.

these changes.

A FIRST FOR CANCER TREATMENTS

world. In itself, IP is not a barrier to access to medicines. However, we recognise the global health care challenge requires us to be flexible

GSK has also outlined its intent

in our approach and responsive

to commit its future portfolio of

to different needs, particularly

cancer treatments to patent

as the disease burden shifts from

pooling and will explore the

infectious to non-communicable

concept with the Medicines

diseases. We continuously look

Patent Pool (MPP) to help

at ways that GSK can further

address the increasing burden

contribute to increasing access

of cancer in developing

to medicines.’

countries. It would be the first

Implementation of these

company to take this step.

proposals will be subject to local

Since it was established in 2010,

laws. GSK will now consult with its

For least developed countries

the MPP has been successful

licensing and co-development

(LDCs) and low income countries

in accelerating access to HIV,

partners on these changes. •

26

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

QUALITY CONTROL

Keeping it clean Ecolab Contamination Control (Ecolab) has launched a unique product, Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol. It is set to bring groundbreaking developments to the pharmaceutical industry where the transfer disinfection process is concerned.

A

s a worldwide provider

which cause significant wetting –

of leading products

a feature not recommended for

and services for the

transfer disinfection. This can also

control of microbial

grow the risk of inadequate product

An operator cleaning a controlled environment with Ecolab’s Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol

purpose built cleanroom and is supported by the firm’s process match assurance mark. This highlights that the manufacturing

contamination in cleanroom

contact, leading to poor practical

environments, Ecolab’s Klercide

performance. Process time may

customers. It is also fitted with

Sporicidal Alcohol offers all the

also be increased or it may require

the patented SteriShield delivery

positive features of an alcohol-

transfer to take place while the

system, which is the only fully

based disinfectant. These include

items are still wet. Water-based

validated trigger spray system

a low surface tension, which

sporicides are known to result in

on the market. This ensures

improves product contact. It

pooling, which can significantly

the integrity of the product

also has a ‘flash off’ time of

reduce material compatibility

is protected throughout its

just two minutes and minimal

and increase the likelihood of

entire use.

residues, which combined with its

residue build-up.

sporicidal properties, significantly enhance its efficacy.

ANSWERING INDUSTRY DEMAND

improve their processes and

where spores evade the disinfection

deliver contamination control

process are extremely serious.

without compromise. •

This is a view supported by Good

Alcohol will minimise the risk

guidelines. GMP Annex 1 reads:

of introducing spores to the

‘the transfer of materials into and

manufacturing process during

out of the cleanroom is one of

transfer disinfection. This process

the greatest potential sources of

has long posed a significant

contamination’.

pharmacies etc.

According to Ecolab, it has been specifically developed

Alcohol customers will

inadequate transfer disinfection

Manufacturing Practice (GMP)

manufacturers and hospital

By using Klercide Sporicidal

The consequences of

Critically, Klercide Sporicidal

challenge to pharmaceutical

processes match those of its

Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol from Ecolab

Ecolab Contamination Control – www.ecolab.com

NO COMPROMISE ON QUALITY Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol is manufactured in Ecolab’s own

to address a long-standing need to provide a sterile sporicidal product with the key characteristics of alcohol for the transfer disinfection process.

COMPANY SNAP SHOT

This is in line with recent regulatory guidelines, including

ECOLAB DELIVERS COMPREHENSIVE solutions

GMP Annex 1 and PIC/S P1007-6,

and on-site services to promote and maintain

which states: ‘sporicidal agents

clean environments, optimise water and energy

should be used wherever possible

use, and improve operational efficiencies.

but particularly for spraying in

Its customers span the pharmaceutical,

components and equipment in

biotechnology, health care, food, energy,

aseptic areas’.

hospitality and industrial markets. The company

SUPERIOR TO WATERBASED SPORICIDES In the past, water-based

has distribution agents and/or offices in more than 170 countries around the world, and has an extensive footprint throughout the African continent.

sporicides have been used

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

27

QUALITY CONTROL

Focus on functional

and modular solutions

Octanorm was established in South Africa 24 years ago with the sole focus of supplying aluminium construction systems to the exhibition industry. The company has evolved over the years to offer modular cleanroom systems to pharmaceutical and chemical manufacturers throughout sub-Saharan Africa.

P

resented in a modular

The installation is completed

aluminium format, the

by approved contractors,

Octanorm cleanroom

which have many

system offers several

years of experience

advantages. Beert Kuiken, MD of

in cleanrooms.’

Octanorm explains: ‘The walling,

With the cleanroom system

DID YOU KNOW?

being the youngest division in the company’s stable, Kuiken says Octanorm South Africa is currently

Octanorm cleanrooms are investing in manufacturing the topped off with a unique branded cleanroom system ceiling system that can be in South Africa, ensuring a altered, enlarged, shrunk quality product available at a or modified according more affordable price. ‘We have to the client’s requirements. seen that the efficiency, flexibility

door and ceiling system allows for

Functional add-ons

a range of different configuration

The cleanroom system

options and accommodates a wide

allows for a variety of door-

variety of finishes and infill panels.

and-pass-through hatch

Its greatest advantage is the speed

options, as well as various

and quality of the product speak

and simplicity of assembling the

security and automation processes

for itself as many new clients have

system, which can be dismantled,

to be integrated into the system.

come through referrals and existing

reconfigured and modified numerous

customers have continuously

Furthermore, the laminar flow units

times. Ultimately the lightweight

from Octanorm allow for various

cleanroom system can be seen as a

configurations with no limitations

movable asset.’

on the options available to the

supported us,’ he concludes. • 1

2

client. ‘Because the laminar flow

Construction efficiency at its best

units are manufactured locally from

The cleanroom systems are designed

cleanroom walls, ceilings and doors,

and developed at the Octanorm

they are quick to assemble, can be

head office in Germany. This

manufactured in extremely short time

means an internationally approved

frames and ultimately look sleek and

technology is available to the sub-

clean,’ adds Kuiken.

the very same system used for the

Saharan African pharmaceutical integrated configuration solutions.

Precision technology to be developed locally

‘Most locally available solutions

Cleanrooms in the pharmaceutical

industry along with a wide range of

do not allow for the flexibility offered

industry are required to

by Octanorm,’ he comments. ‘With

meet stringent standards. To

over 40 years’ experience in quality

accommodate them, Octanorm

aluminium construction systems, the

cleanrooms are certifiable for all

brand offers a range of cleanroom

GMP/ISO classes. They are also

systems and accessories that are

built modularly, allowing for

extremely efficient.’

high flexibility, and are easy to

Discussing the company’s hands-on approach to project

expand and convert. a common principle in the

works with the client to develop

connecting technology, the

a solution that best meets their

four individual Octanorm

cleanroom requirements. ‘HVAC,

offerings can be cross-

lighting and equipment specialists

pollinated to form an

are consulted to ensure that all

even wider variety of

components of the cleanroom

efficient construction and

are integrated and optimised.

framing solutions.

| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

1

Example of an interior door in an Octanorm cleanroom

2

The wall system is an integral and versatile part of Octanorm’s cleanroom systems

3

The laminar flow unit from Octanorm is not only customisable but also quick to assemble

As all of the systems have

management, Kuiken says his team

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3

Octanorm South Africa – www.octanorm.co.za

PACKAGING//Flexible Packaging

Exploring new facets in flexibles The benefits of flexible packaging are extensive for pharmaceutical, cosmetics and home care brands.

Machinery and film suppliers offer reliable solutions for creating packs that are robust and eye-catching. By Nikita Geldenhuys

P

ouches and sachets

overwrap cartons for perfumes and

are popular packaging

cosmetics. These clear substrates

solutions in African FMCG

convey a message of quality to

industries because of

the consumer and ensure strong

their lighter weight, affordability,

seals on minimal sealing areas.

decoration potential and

Polyvinylidene chloride-coated films

convenience for the consumer.

such as Propafilm RXD are, however,

P C Review Africa takes a look

increasingly being adopted in

at flexible packaging machinery,

this market. These materials are

as well as film and finished pack

resistant to whitening when in

manufacturers that deliver quality

contact with alcohol-based

products aimed at making

liquids like perfume. This

stronger, brighter and safer

allows packaging to retain

pouches, bags and sachets.

clarity in the event of

OVERWRAP FILMS WITH A DIFFERENCE

contact with the product during spraying.

When it comes to bundling

Innovia Films (Innovia) has been

multiple products together, it

supplying biaxially oriented

is essential the outer shrink film of

polypropylene (BOPP) films

the bundle does not stick to the

to the packaging industry

inner film covering the units. The

for over 45 years under the

overwrap or collation film holding

trademark, Propafilm.

the products together should

The company manufactures

be removable without causing

Propafilm using a unique ‘bubble’

damage to the inner packs.

process, which produces

Innovia’s RC film, NC and SNC

substrates with balanced

materials are ideal solutions for

orientation and properties. The

this problem. This range of new

materials have superior clarity and

coextruded materials offers a low

exceptional gloss – ideal qualities

seal threshold, which avoids heat

for pharmaceutical and cosmetics

sealing to the inner packs.

packaging. They also boast mechanical, balanced shrink properties and high stiffness.

Innovia’s additional coating capabilities have allowed the manufacturer to extend its BOPP range with speciality products to suit any requirement or application. Propafilm RXD and RC address the specific needs of the cosmetics and personal care industries.

Acrylic-coated BOPP films have traditionally been used to

The iFoodbag keeps pharmaceuticals such as vaccines cool for up to 24 hours

Amaia Cowan, market manager at Innovia, enthuses: ‘We are proud of our BOPP filmic overwrap solutions, which are ideally

DID YOU KNOW?

suited to pharmaceutical and cosmetics applications. Our offering includes glossy

The global market for flexible packaging is expected to grow at an estimated compound annual growth rate of 5.11 percent by 2021.

films to enhance shelf appeal, shrink tightening films for exceptional pack appearance, and collation films. Look out for future developments in the

Propafilm range, including easy opening films.’

Polyvinylidene chloridecoated films, such as Innovia’s Propafilm RXD, are resistant to whitening when in contact with alcohol-based liquids like perfume

HALLMARK OF QUALITY FLEXIBLES AllFlex in South Africa is a manufacturer and printer of flexible packaging materials. It produces plain and printed films for agents and packers operating in various southern African markets.

Its substrates are custom-made to protect products against moisture, bacteria, sunlight and harsh chemicals.

The company’s polyester, polypropylene, low density polyethylene and metallised films are used to produce formfill-seal bags as well as pouches.

Supplied in reel form, the thickness of the materials ranges from 12 to 600 microns.

The company relies on flexographic printing to create high-resolution graphics on its films.

‘Images are printed using rapid

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |

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PACKAGING//Flexible Packaging

Its side and bottom seal machines are developed and built in South Africa. Hundreds of these

co-owner of AllFlex. ‘With our collection of four-colour, six-colour and eight-colour printing presses, we are able to serve any flexible substrate printing need.’

The manufacturer formulates its films for pharmaceutical packaging based on the level of protection each product requires.

Its multi-laminate materials are

Innovia’s RC film for overwrapping of bundled products has a low seal threshold, which keeps the outer layer of the wrap from sticking to the film that covers the units inside the bundle

The company has signed a purchasing contract with Equator

the last two decades, and operate

One Logistics. Up to 20 million carrier

successfully in the US, Europe,

bags will be distributed throughout

Middle and Far East, and South

the continent to support efforts to

Africa. The company also distributes

reduce and prevent starvation and

to Malawi, Namibia, Swaziland,

food waste. Ali points out that the

Zambia and Zimbabwe.

innovation also finds application in

Its latest development is an

transporting pharmaceuticals: ‘This

improvement to its BSM 1000 LH2

carrier bag will ensure safe delivery

twin servo/twin bottom seal bag

for temperature-sensitive medicines

maker. The machine is being used

and vaccines in environments

by African convertors to produce

where electricity is not available or

flexible packaging for washing

not consistent.’

food products. plates,’ explains Steven Samuels,

for up to 24 hours.

units have been produced over

powder, as well as food and pet drying liquid inks and photopolymer

chilling and freezing functionality

The design of the BSM 1000 has

The iFoodbag team flew to Kenya to research the possibilities the pack holds for pharmaceuticals

been enhanced by adding a third

and food in exposed environments.

servo drive, which drives its excenter

It found that vaccines cannot be

shaft for the second sealing bar

kept cooler than 15°C using present

movement. The upgraded model

solutions. The new pack’s cooling

is known as the BSM 1000 LH3.

technology keeps products at

Additional features were introduced

a temperature of between two

to this unit, including spine/lap seal

and eight degrees Celsius for a

capabilities for sheeting, as well as

longer period of time than was

separate in-line gusseting of lap-

previously possible.

sealed tubular film.

It produces open-ended bags,

The first carrier bags have already been shipped and will

used to produce pouches for

with options to include a handle

gradually be distributed by Equator

liquids, capsules and tablets in the

or four-finger hole punch, and

One Logistics, which is in direct

pharmaceutical industry.

a header seal. A separate unit

contact with aid organisations. The

can be attached to the machine

packs will be used to keep both

with us because of the quality

to produce the lap seals. The

pharmaceuticals and foodstuffs

of our product, as well as the

improvement has been made

cooler for longer.

excellent service they receive.

possible by Technimac’s long-

Our lead times are short and we

standing affiliation with Günter

be a game changer when it comes

are very fl exible. The hierarchy of

Kunststoffmaschinen in Germany.

to helping people in need, and

‘Our customers enjoy working

‘We believe that the iFoodbag will

decision makers are also

The relationship

we are very proud to be working

short, making it possible

enables the company

with the team, as well as the aid

for us to respond almost

to remain at the

organisations. This will change the

immediately to requests

forefront of bag making

delivery system in Africa and can be

and client changes.’

technology.

a lifesaving product,’ Ali concludes.

TRUSTWORTHY BAG MAKING TECHNOLOGY

KEEPING VACCINES COOL IN TRANSIT

This development is proof that flexible packaging technology continues to advance, from smarter materials to machinery that enables

Technimac is an

Abdulaziz Ali, CEO of

convertors to offer greater variety to

importer, distributor and

Equator One Logistics

customers. With these innovations,

manufacturer of plastic

in Kenya, has lauded

manufacturers are able to create

processing machinery.

a new temperature-

attractive, convenient packaging

Its solutions for the flexible

controlling packaging

that keeps products safe. •

packaging industry include

innovation as a solution to

imported monolayer and

transporting vaccines and

multilayer blown-film lines,

sensitive medicines. The

slitting and rewinding

innovation was developed

machines, heavy duty bag

by iFoodbag in Sweden,

making units, and reel-to-

which designed a unique

reel machinery.

paper carrier bag with

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| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa

AllFlex – www.allflex.co.za iFoodbag – www.ifoodbag.com Innovia Films – www.innoviafilms.com Technimac – www.technimac.co.za