5 minute read
Innovative hair care that celebrates individuality
It takes persistence to maintain natural hairstyles and keep curly hair looking healthy. To care for natural hair, the routine involves washing curls with a gentle detangling shampoo and strengthening actives at least every two weeks. It also includes the use of intense repair conditioners and frequent moisturisation of the scalp and hair with conditioning agents to prevent breakage.
MANY AFRICAN CONSUMERS struggle to find products for their hair care regime in order to provide consumers with innovative solutions, IMC□ SA's technical team held a focus group meeting with ethnic consumers. During the session, participants completed a survey and interactive discussions followed with the technical team, focusing on the most essential products to meet their scalp and hair health needs.
After analysing the survey results, the group decided on the following products and benefits for an ideal natural hair care routine: , a scalp treatment that would moisturise and promote hair growth , a gentle shampoo that not only makes hair feel smooth but also strengthens it from within , an intense rinse-off conditioner with conditioning and repairing benefits , two types of hair foods, one being a traditional formulation and the other based on natural oils , a leave-in oil moisturiser lotion , oil sheen serum , leave-in shine lotion. The technical team then created bespoke formulations for each of these products based on the needs of consumers who attended the focus group. The formulations are discussed in detail in this article.
DETANGLING SHAMPOO
The best route for this formulation was to design a gentle sulfate-free shampoo with Ashland's fiberHance'" bm solution (Hydroxypropylgluconamide (and) Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate). This small molecule hair care technology is designed to strengthen hair from within the fibre by penetrating deep into the cortex. Its mechanism of action creates new hydrogen and ionic bonds, which support the internal keratin structure.
The result is improved strengthening of up to three times that of untreated hair, and improved manageability of hair damaged by chemical and other harsh treatments.
RINSE-OFF CONDITIONER
The intense repair rinse-off conditioner also contains the fiberHance bm solution to repair and strengthen hair. The formulation is further fortified with Belsil □ADM 3240 E. This is Wacker's novel silicone co-emulsion, which is highly effective even at low concentrations. It consists of amodimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone. Due to its network structure, the crosspolymer surrounds and protects the hair. It acts in synergy with the dimethicone to confer long-lasting conditioning properties. Belsil DADM 3240 E renders even rough, damaged hair soft and supple, making it easy to comb when wet or dry. It also helps the hair to regain its natural healthy appearance.
HAIR FOOD DUO
The traditional hair food contains lanolin to refatten hair, vitamin E oil to act as antioxidant, and Wacker's Belsil PF 100 (Lauryl Phenylisopropyl Methicone), which has a very high refractive index to confer shine to the hair.
Based on natural oils and waxes from Jan Dekker (a subsidiary of IMCD), the natural hair food has a strong sustainability profile. CLR Berlin's Cutibiome (Octyldodecanol (and) Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil (and) Piper Nigrum Seed Extract (and) Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract) is added to the formulation for its potent effect on regulating elevated sebum production while helping to maintain a healthy microbiome on the scalp. Cutibiome also prevents and eliminates dandruff.
SCALP TREATMENT
The hair growth and moisturising scalp treatment is formulated with Follicusan'" DP from CLR Berlin, which invigorates hair follicles and reduces hair loss. It is a milk-based bioactive, containing active signalling molecules, which stimulate the dermal papilla cells.
Follicusan DP is proven to counteract accelerated hair loss (alopecia) and improves hair density and hair thickness. Apart from the biologically active signalling molecules, it contains ethyl panthenol, inositol, acetyl cysteine and acetyl methionine in an aqueousalcoholic medium.
The scalp treatment also contains Nouryon's Hydrovance moisturising agent (Hydroxyethyl Urea), which is a very powerful moisturiser and has hair and scalp repair properties.
SHINE LOTION
The leave-in conditioning shine lotion is designed with Wacker's Belsil® OM 5102 E. This is an effective conditioning agent for hair, which provides a soft, silky touch on natural and damaged hair and strongly reduces dry and wet combing forces and friction.
Also in the formulation is Wacker's Belsil® PF 200. This multifunctional phenyl-modified polydimethylsiloxane has a carefully designed chemical structure to provide multiple attractive benefits, such as high refractive index (shine performance), amphiphilicity, soft feel and easy emulsification. Lastly, fiberHance'" bm solution is added for repairing and strengthening, as previously mentioned.
OIL SHEEN SPRAY
To give hair shine without weighing it down, the oil sheen spray is formulated with high refractive index oils. Vegelight 1214LC from Grant Industries is an Ecocert-approved volatile and lower odour alkane sourced from vegetable oils. It is a clear, colourless emollient with volatility properties similar to petroleum-derived isododecane and syntheticallyderived cyclomethicones.
OIL MOISTURISER
The leave-in oil moisturiser contains the effective conditioning agent Belsil® OM 5102 E and Belsil PF 100 (Lauryl Phenylisopropyl Methicone) with very high refractive index to confer shine to the hair. The product is fortified with fiberHance bm solution to repair and strengthen hair, and light oils to moisturise the scalp and hair.
INDEPENDENT EFFICACY STUDIES
To validate the efficacy of the hair care products designed by the IMCD team, studies are being conducted by an independent consultant, using hairdressers and chosen participants. Further studies will be conducted on Afro hair tresses using Dia-Stron equipment for a scientific approach.
