Curl care – addressing the challenge for formulators

Curly hair requires special care due to its unique structure. This is even more the case for ethnic hair types. Curly hair in general lacks moisture and dries out easily. The reason for this lies in the physical structure of curly hair. Formulators and manufacturers need to understand the makings of hair curly in order to design products that will enhance and benefit the hair type.

The science of hair shape holds the key to effective hair care product formulation – regardless of whether the product is intended for straight or curly hair. An article published by Northwestern University explains that there are two aspects of the hair’s structure which determine its shape – the shaft and the follicle.

Essentially, the shaft is the part of the hair we see growing out of the head, whilst the follicle lies within the scalp and is the anchor that holds hair in place. The shape of the follicle determines the amount of curl in the hair, i.e. a round follicle will produce straight hair, an oval follicle will result in wavy hair and an elliptical or hooked follicle produces curly or extremely curly hair.

The angle at which hair grows out of the scalp affects the intensity of the curl. Curly hairs tunnel in at an angle, which also has an impact on the oiliness of the hair as the angle makes it difficult for natural oils to spread throughout the hair. Whilst this means people with curly hair may not need to wash as often, it can lead to dandruff and scalp irritation, which can cause discomfort.

When it comes to the hair shaft, it is the way the protein molecules build up on the curly hair that affects how curly the hair is. Proteins such as keratins tend to build up unevenly in curly hair, collecting in the curve of the hair and making it curl even more, although this is less of an issue than the actual shape of the follicle when it comes to affecting curliness.

Soothe, calm and nourish hair

Curly and extremely curly hair need extra care, mostly in the form of ingredients that can restore hair’s moisture. Gentle cleansing is also important in order to manage the occurrence of irritable scalp and the build-up of dandruff.

Ingredient manufacturer Cobiosa, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, specialises in the production of botanical extracts from the Andean region and the extraction of natural active ingredients. Included in this offering is a range of ingredients for the hair care industry.

Cobiosa has identified two particular ingredients which are ideal for inclusion in products for curly and extremely curly hair. Ethomega is an exotic and exclusive oil mix combining the soothing and antioxidant properties of chia seed oil with the powerful nourishing properties of sacha inchi oil.

Ethomega contains a very high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids and tocopherols. It helps to:

• reduce split hairs and breakage

• restore the scalp and hair barrier

• increase brightness • protect hair colour

• improve scalp comfort by calming the itching sensation

• restore moisture.

Cobiosa’s curly girl method

Cobiosa’s version of the “curly girl method” includes a list of dos and don’ts and ingredients to avoid and embrace to achieve perfect curls and healthy, extra nourished hair.

DOs

• Cleaning: clean using a conditioner or cream shampoo with natural emollients.

• Moisturise using humectants such as glycerine and nourishing oils.

• Create curl definition and styling with leave-on formulas to boost hair wellness, hydration and avoid frizz.

• Seal with natural and nourishing oils.

DON’Ts

• Don’t use sulfates.

• Don’t use non-soluble silicones.

• Don’t use heat, it severely damages the hair.

• Don’t use drying alcohols.

Curly and extremely curly hair need extra care

Protecting the inner hair architecture

The second ingredient, Protecsyl, is an extract from the Jatropha macrantha plant, which is indigenous to Peru.

Protecsyl is an exotic active ingredient designed to protect the inner hair architecture and prevent protein degradation. It preserves the cell membrane complex, supporting hair resistance and elasticity and improving weak and breakable hair. Protecsyl helps to:

• prevent frizz

• protect and preserve hair proteins

• repair split ends

• strengthen the hair

• prevent hair breakage

• protect hair colour

• protect the inner architecture of the hair.

Used together, Ethomega and Protecsyl are ideal for gentle cleansing shampoos, hair masks, hair cream and split-end sealing treatments. Both ingredients are available throughout Southern Africa from Botanichem. Check out the formulation guides in tables 1 and 2 for more information on these suggested formulas or chat to Robyn Brown at Botanichem for guidance. •