Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q1 2022

Page 12

HAIR CARE

– addressing Curl care the challenge for formulators

Curly hair requires special care due to its unique structure. This is even more the case for ethnic hair types. Curly hair in general lacks moisture and dries out easily. The reason for this lies in the physical structure of curly hair. Formulators and manufacturers need to understand the makings of hair curly in order to design products that will enhance and benefit the hair type.

T

HE SCIENCE OF hair shape holds the key to effective hair care

throughout the hair. Whilst this means people with curly hair may not

product formulation – regardless of whether the product

need to wash as often, it can lead to dandruff and scalp irritation,

is intended for straight or curly hair. An article published by

which can cause discomfort.

Northwestern University explains that there are two aspects of the hair’s structure which determine its shape – the shaft and the follicle. Essentially, the shaft is the part of the hair we see growing out of the

When it comes to the hair shaft, it is the way the protein molecules build up on the curly hair that affects how curly the hair is. Proteins such as keratins tend to build up unevenly in curly hair, collecting in

head, whilst the follicle lies within the scalp and is the anchor that holds

the curve of the hair and making it curl even more, although this is

hair in place. The shape of the follicle determines the amount of curl in

less of an issue than the actual shape of the follicle when it comes to

the hair, i.e. a round follicle will produce straight hair, an oval follicle will

affecting curliness.

result in wavy hair and an elliptical or hooked follicle produces curly or extremely curly hair. The angle at which hair grows out of the scalp affects the intensity of

SOOTHE, CALM AND NOURISH HAIR Curly and extremely curly hair need extra care, mostly in the form of

the curl. Curly hairs tunnel in at an angle, which also has an impact on the

ingredients that can restore hair’s moisture. Gentle cleansing is also

oiliness of the hair as the angle makes it difficult for natural oils to spread

important in order to manage the occurrence of irritable scalp and the build-up of dandruff. Ingredient manufacturer Cobiosa, which celebrates its 50 th anniversary this year, specialises in the production of botanical extracts from the Andean region and the extraction of natural active ingredients. Included in this offering is a range of ingredients for the hair care industry. Cobiosa has identified two particular ingredients which are ideal for inclusion in products for curly and extremely curly hair. Ethomega is an exotic and exclusive oil mix combining the soothing and antioxidant properties of chia seed oil with the powerful nourishing properties of sacha inchi oil. Ethomega contains a very high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids and tocopherols. It helps to: • reduce split hairs and breakage

We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products! High Quality | Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes | Cosmetics Consumables Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme | 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za | Website: www.cpack.co.za

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QUARTER 1 2022 // P&C AFRICA

• restore the scalp and hair barrier

The Jatropha macrantha plant


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