Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q2 2021 by New Media B2B

AFRICA Quarter 2 2021 | Volume 6 | 02

www.pharmacos.co.za

ETHNIC CARE

TAILOR YOUR FORMULATIONS WITH EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS

PACKAGING

HOW TO ACCELERATE VACCINE DELIVERY USING AUTOMATED INSPECTION

PHARMA FOCUS

NOVEL DATA LOGGER IMPROVES LAST MILE SHIPMENT MONITORING

Committed to inclusive,

customised beauty

AFRICA Quarter 2 2021 | Volume 6 | 02

www.pharmacos.co.za

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS Makeup that defines eyes while caring for skin

6 NEWS

Silica from Evonik deemed a cold chain ‘essential’

Official perfume of Spain expo pavilion presented by Iberchem

Chemyunion launches a three-in-one acne active

10 EVENTS

In-cosmetics Global returns as a COVID- secure event

12 ETHNIC CARE

22 PACKAGING

Automate vaccine inspection with TracePack

The potential of robotics in manufacturing

Elsewedy Print House invests in a HP Indigo 12000

27 PHARMA FOCUS

Fresh trends commentary from IMCD Personal Care

Expanded efficacy profile revealed for Matmarine biotech ingredient

AECI promotes natural solutions to care for hair

Address maskne with mild ingredients from Vantage

Kirsch Pharma SA moves into new premises

Unique multifunctional lactose for direct compression

Logmore improves last mile pharma shipment monitoring

The potential of robotics for the ‘lights-out factory’

20 COLOUR COSMETICS

Define the eyes with novel solutions from Merck

Automated inspection vital to accelerate vaccine delivery

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Sub-editor: Gill Abrahams Contributors: Marly Bastiaansen, Pauline Janssen, Karen Maier, Karen Meyer, Jacques Strydom ADVERTISING

Game-changing moments in diversity

he last two to three years have seen

Ingredients and formulation technologies

several game-changing moments in

for striking eye makeup and bold lipsticks are a

inclusivity and diversity within the

central focus in the section on colour cosmetics.

cosmetics industry. Fenty Beauty is one

Turn to page 20 for expert advice from Merck on

of those game-changers which is widely thought

why interesting and transforming textures are so

to have revolutionised ‘the diversity in beauty’

important in the world of makeup and what colour

movement. According to online reports, the initial

trends to expect in the next few months.

internal airing of the Fenty Beauty campaign

As access to COVID-19 vaccines is of the

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION

trailer left business leaders and Rihanna herself

highest priority in many African countries, we look

feeling very emotional as it was said to be the first

at the technology available to pharmaceutical

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

time underrepresented women and cultures were

manufacturers to help ease the intense pressure

PUBLISHING TEAM

featured in a global prestige beauty campaign.

they are faced with to produce and distribute large

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

quantities of vaccines. TracePack’s automated

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

marketing and shifted the beauty landscape with

vial inspection technology is showcased in the

Art Director: David Kyslinger

more and more brands committing to meeting the

packaging feature on page 22 and the benefits

needs of consumers with more richly-melanated

of Logmore’s data loggers are underlined in the

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

skin and highly textured hair.

pharmaceutical focus on page 30.

This marked a turning point for inclusive

In IMCD’s Personal Care’s latest trends commentary, known as Tomorrow’s Beauty, inclusive beauty is positioned front and centre with

Stay safe and enjoy the read!

special consideration for all individuals – no matter their background, age or gender – and their specific skin and hair concerns. Showcasing its commitment

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM

in this regard, IMCD is featured on the cover of this

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

edition of P&C Africa while its inclusive beauty

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

trend concept is discussed in more detail in the

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

ethnic care feature on page 12. We also highlight the

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

expanded efficacy profile of Lipotec’s Matmarine biotech ingredient to include African ethnic skin and

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

explore AECI’s mild and affordable natural solutions

HEAD OFFICE

to care for textured hair.

New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd 8th floor, Media24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht Cape Town, 8001 Tel: +27 21 406 2002

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

AECI Specialty Chemicals..............................17........................ aeciworld.com CJP Chemicals ................................................IBC...................... www.cjpchemicals.co.za Clomark.............................................................7.......................... www.clomark.com IMCD SA ............................................................OFC.................... www.imcdgroup.com Kirsch Pharma SA.............................................OBC.................... www.kirschpharma.com Logmore............................................................IFC...................... www.logmore.com Merck.................................................................21........................ www.merckgroup.com Mitas Corporation ...........................................23....................... www.tracepack.co.za Omron Electronics............................................25....................... www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................15........................ www.savannah.co.za

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

SIGNUP

We are re-launching A full-service experience

Review Signup to receive your copy of New Media’s PACKAGING REVIEW e-book and gain access to the latest industry news and exclusive editorial and video content on trends, packaging technologies and new machinery and equipment for various end-user markets from food and beverage to pharmaceutical, cosmetics and home care as well as the general packaging industry. http://bit.ly/PackagingReviewSignUp

ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising sales executives to book your space: Anita Raath Sales executive +27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive +27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive +27 (0)71 438 1918

NEWS

Avery Dennison’s CleanFlake label materials improve packaging recyclability

Merck receives Halal certifications to meet growing consumer demand

WHAT BEGAN AS a breakthrough solution for PET

helping to ensure that a label’s adhesive stays with

plastic bottles can now make PET packages in a range

the label and not on the package, so that all label

of markets more recyclable. The latest iteration of

material fully detaches during the recycling process.

Avery Dennison’s award-winning CleanFlake filmic

The resulting washed PET flakes can then be recycled

THE ENTIRE COSMETICS portfolio of

label materials are now suitable for PET packaging

into new PET packaging. Flakes that are otherwise

Merck as well as the Candurin portfolio

contaminated by conventional label materials must be

for food and pharmaceuticals have been

downcycled or sent to landfills or incinerators.

certified according to several international

in food, home and personal care applications. “More than ever,

Avery Dennison’s awardwinning CleanFlake filmic label materials are now suitable for PET packaging in food, home and personal care applications

With a new proprietary adhesive, SR3011N,

recognised halal standards. Merck’s portfolio of halal certified

CleanFlake helps brands

CleanFlake materials look and perform like any other

keep the promise of PET,”

self-adhesive label material. An upgrade to a best-

products now also includes special effect

says Avery Dennison

in-class topcoat provides outstanding printability,

pigments, cosmetic ingredients, functional

product manager, Mariya

and CleanFlake materials are designed to deliver fast,

fillers and food colorants. The almost

Nedelcheva. “Companies that

flawless application on high-speed labelling machines.

300 products complement around 800

use PET packaging no longer

The facestocks offer the same attractive ‘no-label’

halal certified products, which are already

have to choose between true

look comparable to other Avery Dennison materials.

offered by the Life Science business sector

recyclability and outstanding

Products in the CleanFlake portfolio comply

performance when it comes

with Petcore guidelines for trays and are certified by

to their labels. We are closing

Institut Cyclos-HTP. Endorsement by the European

halal products across the globe, more

the gap between CleanFlake

PET Bottle Platform (EPBP) is pending.

prominently in Muslim dominated

materials and conventional, general purpose label

“We are proud to offer a solution that helps keep

of Merck. “There is an increasing demand for

countries. Our portfolio now offers a wide

materials. For companies that care about recyclability,

PET plastic containers out of the waste stream

range of halal certified cosmetics products

the question is not why they would use CleanFlake,

and helps to increase the global supply of rPET,”

and solutions,” explains Dorothea

but why they wouldn’t.”

Nedelcheva adds. “Our CleanFlake portfolio is one

Wenzel, head of surface solutions at the

more way we’re helping to build a circular economy in

electronics business sector of Merck.

Europe and around the world.” •

“Today, many customers have a particular

First introduced in 2013, CleanFlake technology solves a critical problem in PET plastic recycling by

Silica from Evonik an essential part of the cold chain DURING THE COVID-19 pandemic, -70°C is a

figure associated with great hopes and significant challenges. Its inextricable link to one of the first mRNA vaccines came about due to an innovative

they are lined with vacuum insulation panels (VIP). VIPs with Aerosil, a fumed silica synthesised in a 1 200°Celsius hydrogen flame, are highly efficient and are much thinner than other insulation materials

technology which requires very cold storage

with the same effect. Therefore, they are ideal

temperatures. In transport logistics for medical

for the production of insulating containers

and pharmaceutical products, silica from

or boxes for the temperature-controlled

Evonik can contribute to a solution –

transportation of goods, which must not

acting as a small yet highly efficient

be exposed to temperature fluctuations.

part of the cold chain.

“Passively cooled transport units are a

Worldwide, people continue

vital part of our pharma chain. They

to place their hopes in vaccines

use VIPs and, depending on the

for protection against highly

required temperature, either cool

infectious and contagious diseases and in blood reserves, clinical samples and pharmaceutical products. The logistical challenges are enormous, also because of the precise cooling: How can these temperature-

packs or dry ice,” confirms logistics

Aerosil fumed silica shrink-wrapped in a multilayer special film to offer the best insulation against heat and cold

service provider Kühne+Nagel, which is involved in the delivery of COVID-19 vaccines. VIP with Aerosil fumed silica offers these benefits in cold chain logistics:

sensitive substances get from production sites to

• reliable passive cooling

vaccination centres, health practices, hospitals and to

• lower energy consumption and CO2 emissions

people in hard-to-reach regions of the world without loss of efficacy and temperature excursions in the supply chain? Cooling with electricity is energy-intensive and expensive. Passive cooling methods are an alternative that do not require an external energy supply because

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

thanks to energy retention • up to 20% more transport and storage volume thanks to the thin-walled boxes • low weight • sustainable as a result of their long life cycle of over 30 years.•

high awareness regarding the ingredients of the cosmetics products they use, and we see that the importance of this aspect continuously increases.” The global market of halal-compliant cosmetic is expected to significantly grow in the upcoming years. Halal products are sourced and manufactured with ingredients that are ‘permissible’ under Islamic law. Along the entire value chain, strict guidelines for raw material purchasing, manufacturing, filling, warehousing and transport are followed to ensure product purity in compliance with religious prescriptions. Therefore, the production facilities of Merck’s manufacturing sites in Darmstadt, Gernsheim, Mollet, Onahama and Savannah had to ensure that they are producing in accordance with the individual halal standards. For the certification, Merck worked with a network of certification bodies across the globe. Halal Quality Control, Darmstadt audited and certified the German sites Darmstadt and Gernsheim as well as Mollet in Spain. The US-based site in Savannah, Georgia has been certified by the Islamic Food and Nutrition Council of America, whereas the site in Onahama, Japan was inspected and certified by the Japan Halal Association. •

NEWS

Iberchem presents official perfume of Spain for world expo pavilion DURING BARCELONA OLFACTION Week, fragrance house Iberchem

of the Northern forests, as well as the

presented the official perfume of the Spain pavilion, to be featured at the

freshness of the citrus groves in the

upcoming Dubai World Expo. The reveal took place on a rooftop terrace in

south and the sweetness of the

front of the Sagrada Familia, an architectural landmark of Spain.

grapes in the vineyards that spread

The fragrance, created by Iberchem’s head perfumer Luz Vaquero, is one of the many olfactory projects the fragrance house will be showcasing

across the country. “The fragrance took almost

during the expo. For the first time in its history, the pavilion will include

three years to develop,” she said.

many olfactory installations to outline the importance of the fragrance

“It is definitely one of the most

industry in the country.

challenging composition I have ever

During the presentation, Vaquero revealed that her composition was

made. To create a scent that embodies

inspired by the olfactory richness of Spain’s natural landscapes: from the

the geographical characteristics of a whole

saltiness of the Mediterranean sea to the green and humid atmosphere

country is not an easy task. I am particularly proud of the result: a perfume that is vibrant, polished and colourful.

Iberchem’s head perfumer Luz Vaquero

At the time of creating the perfume, in line

The official perfume of the Spain pavilion which will feature at the Dubai World Expo

with the theme of the expo and pavilion, the main criteria of the project was sustainability. From the ingredients to the packaging, the result is a product with a very low carbon footprint: more than 60% of the formula is biodegradable, raw materials sourced in Spain have been used whenever possible, the solvents have been reduced to a minimum and it includes a great variety of COSMOS and Ecocert approved natural ingredients. As for the packaging, the cap uses the plastic-free technology Woork by Pujolasós which is 100% natural and compostable. Furthermore, the box and label are produced using FSC paper and don’t require any adhesive. •

Symrise launches Hydrolite 7 green IN RECENT YEARS, the green trend has been

gaining momentum with growing consumer

improving finished product properties.

A robust portfolio of patent applications underlines

protection enhancement in combination with preservatives.

interest in renewable raw material innovations

the unique properties of this multifunctional

“The optimal chain length combines strong

and finished product development. At the same

ingredient and ensures future global security

performance and a liquid form. Due to its sourcing

time, 1,2-alkanediols have been increasingly used

of use for Symrise’s customers. “We continue

from the castor bean plant, the product is suitable

in the personal care industry as multifunctional

to demonstrate our commitment to continuing

for green labels. As an ingredient, it can increase the

ingredients since the introduction of Hydrolite 5

innovation and sustainability, to the green

naturality index of conventional formulations. This

by Symrise 30 years ago. Thus, Hydrolite 7 green

transformation of cosmetic ingredients and the

may provide an alternative to traditional product

brings a long-awaited response to the wish lists

evolving needs of customers and consumers. We feel

protection in areas where multifunctionals

of consumers and formulators as the cosmetics

proud to present this latest member of our portfolio

currently available on the market fail

industry has been seeking a nature-derived,

of quality products,” explains Dr Balint Koroskenyi,

to meet the challenge. Hydrolite

biodegradable, liquid ingredient with multiple

global product manager at Symrise. “It makes a

7 green is a testament to our

benefits which is packed into a single molecule and

complementary addition to the range of alkanediols

leadership in innovation

that offers good economics and shows important

and to the best multifunctionals overall.”

and our commitment to

properties at low concentrations.

Hydrolite 7 green stands out of the crowd with

sustainability. As the leading

its unique chain length, purity, colourless and nearly

supplier of modern product

high purity bio-based liquid multifunctional, whose

odourless properties, offering convenience, a range of

protection, we are always a step

multiple benefits reduce formulation complexity while

multifunctional benefits, and highly-effective product

ahead,” adds Dr Koroskenyi. •

With Hydrolite 7 green, Symrise offers an exclusive

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

NEWS

CHEMYUNION DEVELOPS MIRACNE TO ADDRESS MASKNE ACNE IS A SKIN condition affecting

New biodegradable suspension agent from Solvay RHEOZAN BLC, THE innovative biodegradable rheology agent from Solvay, is a natural and ready-to-use liquid polymer solution that delivers high suspension power in the home and personal care products without any impact on the formulation viscosity. Trends and consumer expectations are shifting toward more naturally-derived products. Formulators must develop high-performing products with advanced aesthetics using fewer synthetic chemicals and more eco-friendly materials. “Solvay’s new Rheozan BLC combines the best of science and nature. It is an innovative and flexible ingredient that leverages the full power of biotechnology with beneficial functions and excellent sustainability credentials,” says JeanGuy Le Helloco, global vice president, home and personal care at Solvay. “This COSMOS-certified ingredient enables new

Miracne (INCI: Propanediol

approximately 9.4% of the world’s

(and) Xylitol (and) Caprylic Acid)

population and is the eighth most

was developed as a three-in-one

common cutaneous problem. It is

multifunctional active ingredient

extremely common among teenagers

for the treatment of acne both

– an estimated 85% of this consumer

in teenagers and adults. It

group suffer from acne. Despite the

acts by working to reduce the

fact that acne is more common among

levels of acne-causing bacteria

males in adolescence, the opposite

(Cutibacterium acnes), the redness

is true in adulthood. In addition to

associated with acne lesions, and

age and gender, other factors that

by controlling sebum production.

influence the pervasiveness of acne

Created using a balanced, synergetic

are ethnicity and genetics. Lifestyle

combination of propanediol, xylitol

also seems to affect the presence and

and caprylic acid, all components

severity of acne. And now mechanical

of Miracne come from renewable

acne (commonly known as maskne)

sources. This process avoids the

has arisen due to the constant wearing

use of toxic substances and

of protective masks.

adheres to many of the precepts

When considering the multifactorial complexity of this

of green chemistry. Available in Southern Africa

condition, Chemyunion determined

from Chemgrit Cosmetics,

that the key to overcoming acne is

Miracne is a cruelty-free, vegan

focusing on its origin rather than

and preservative-free ingredient

the symptoms of the skin condition.

that has been dermatologically

When super proliferation of C. acnes

tested and proven to be effective

occurs due to excessive sebum, it

in reducing acne-causing bacteria

triggers a dysbiosis – unbalanced

within one minute of application.

skin microbiota. Porphyrins are

After seven days, it provides even

secreted by C. acnes and can generate

more noticeable results.

species, which react to oxygen,

Extremely active at a low

feeding the inflammatory process.

concentration of between 0.5% and

Moreover, propionic acid along

1.0%, Miracne can be used in any

with inflammatory mediators will

type of product for the treatment of

stimulate the abnormal keratinocyte

acne. These include soaps, lotions,

proliferation and differentiation

tonics, serums, gels. The active can

causing comedones to form. It is now

even be combined with other well-

clear that the central part of acne

known and keratolytic ingredients

physiopathology lies in the presence

often used in cosmetics such as

and hyper-proliferation of C. acnes.

salicylic acid and lactic acid. •

formulation possibilities and addresses the market demand for biodegradable solutions, making it a win-win solution for formulators and consumers.” Rheozan BLC is derived from grey biotechnology. Its synthesis is based on starch fermentation by carefully selected bacterial strains that generate very uniform cellulose fibres. When added to home and personal care formulations, these nature-engineered fibres build a regular three-dimensional mesh, creating a highly-effective suspension mechanism. It can suspend and stabilise visual cues such as pigments, natural exfoliating particles, perfume capsules, air bubbles, opacifiers or emulsions, and insoluble agents such as zinc pyrithione or minerals. Solvay’s Rheozan BLC belongs to a new generation of biotechnology-based ingredients that can move the chemical industry towards a more circular economy. •

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

Visia images show the signs porphyrins on the cheek and nose region of a volunteer. Porphyrins are an indirect indication of the presence of C. acnes on the skin. The Visia provides data for the quantification of porphyrins (white dots) in the delimited region (contour) of the cheek and nose of a volunteer on day 0 (D0) and D7, after seven days of treatment with Miracne

DIARY

WHAT'S ON IN

2021 July

in-cosmetics Korea

14 to 16 July (new dates) Seoul, Korea www.korea.in-cosmetics.com

Bangkok Beauty Show

15 to 17 July (new dates) Bangkok, Thailand www.bangkokbeautyshow.com

KZN Industrial Technology Expo

21 to 23 July Durban, South Africa www.kznindustrial.co.za

August

Cosmoprof North America

29 to 31 August (new dates) Las Vegas, US www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

September 2021 Coschem Scientific Conference 8 to 9 September Virtual event www.coschem.co.za

Luxepack Monaco

27 to 29 September Grimaldi Forum, Monaco www.luxepack.com

Chemspec Europe 2021 29 to 30 September Virtual event www.chemspeceurope.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

EVENTS

In-cosmetics Global returns and is COVID-secure The leading cosmetics and personal care event, in-cosmetics Global will return to Barcelona, Spain this October to deliver safe, in-person networking and sourcing opportunities.

FTER LAST YEAR’S postponement

secure event includes the

of in-cosmetics Global due to the

introduction of a one-way

coronavirus pandemic, the world’s

system to help maintain

Event director of in-cosmetics Global, Roziani Zulkifli says the absence of physical events has only strengthened her belief in the need for face-to-face networking and collaboration throughout the cosmetics industry

leading personal care ingredients show is set to

a minimum of 1.5m social

make a highly anticipated return with its first

distancing. In-cosmetics

in-person event in over 18 months. Taking place

has worked closely with Fira

between 5 and 7 October in Barcelona, the

Barcelona to devise a robust safety

industry will be reunited with a much-needed

strategy that follows regulations set out by

in a string of event cancellations and

opportunity to connect face to face and to

the Spanish government.

postponements in all industries across the

source the latest innovations from suppliers.

In addition, there will be the highest

globe. Whilst we’re proud of our transition

standards of cleaning prior to, during, and

to virtual events and networking, we’re

restrictions and resumption of live events

after the event, as well as readily available

extremely excited to see the return of

means the health and safety of visitors,

hand sanitisers throughout the venue

in-cosmetics Global in a COVID-19 secure

exhibitors and staff continue to be the top

and increased ventilation to improve the

format. The absence of physical events has

priority. In-cosmetics events are all about

circulation of fresh air.

only strengthened our belief in the need for

The careful easing of lockdown

connecting people, and so the health and

Organisers aim to provide a safe experience for everyone involved whilst preserving the essence of the renowned event

As COVID-19 safety and security requires participation from everyone, all those attending the event will be expected to follow a number coverings, maintaining physical distancing

Barcelona, Spain. For more information

and refraining from shaking hands. Digital

on the health and safety measures, visit

handshakes will be possible, such as that of

https://bit.ly/3wMskKm. •

the past two editions, in-cosmetics Global has been a smart event which allows visitors and suppliers to exchange information virtually. Exhibitors will also be reviewing the design of

Therefore, organisers aim to provide a

their stands to assist with these measures and

safe experience for everyone involved whilst

will be required to clearly display the maximum

preserving the essence of the renowned

capacity to prevent overcrowding. Interactive

event. In order to achieve this, they are

feature areas such as the makeup bar, sensory

adopting a five-point health and safety

bar and sustainability corner will remain an

strategy. The organisers are also working

integral part of the show, however appropriate

closely with Spanish authorities and the

adjustments have been made to manage social

Fira Barcelona venue to implement all the

distancing and the safe sampling of products.

necessary precautions.

A REAL NEED FOR FACE-TOFACE NETWORKING Event director of in-cosmetics Global,

A key change made by in-cosmetics Global

Roziani Zulkifli, comments: “The pandemic

to ensure the delivery of a COVID-19

has halted in-person activity resulting

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

The next edition of in-cosmetics Global is due to take place in October in

the utmost priority.

throughout the cosmetics industry.”

of hygiene measures such as wearing face

safety of visitors, exhibitors and staff are of

DELIVERING A SAFE AND SECURE EVENT

face-to-face networking and collaboration

INBOUND TRAVEL ADVICE

Please ensure that you have read the latest government and public health guidance regarding travel and health testing to Spain. You can find this information here: www.spth.gob.es. Please note that you will be required to complete a health control form and that you need to obtain a QR code prior to your arrival in Spain.

In-cosmetics Global – www.in-cosmetics.com/global

It’s easy to connect with us online! There are so many benefits to registering on the P&C Review website. You’ll gain free and instant access to every digital edition of the magazine, which you can download in PDF format and save. You’ll also gain access to loads of industry news and other relevant and useful content.

www.b2bcentral.co.za/register/

www.linkedin.com/company/ pharmaceutical-cosmetic-review

Facebook

www.facebook.com/ PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

FORMULATION

DES GN

DID YOU KNOW,

we have launched a new Formulation Design e-book?

bit.ly/FormulationDesignSignup

www.pharmacos.co.za

ETHNIC CARE

New insights into the future of beauty

Tomorrow’s Beauty is the new trends commentary from IMCD for the personal care industry. It is the third in a series of commentaries from the global speciality chemicals and ingredients distributor, which explore the markets in which IMCD Personal Care operates.

MCD HAS TAKEN a closer look at what

For customers, IMCD acts as a

self-care and feeling good truly means

springboard, offering the market insights,

to consumers today by exploring their

formulation expertise, and high-quality

shifting behaviours to uncover new trends. These trends are set to shape the future of the global beauty and personal care industry.

ingredient portfolio they need to help consumers take care of themselves and their families, in 2021 and beyond. Supported by the latest market data, Tomorrow’s Beauty commentary is intended as an inspirational guide. It features a series of sit-down interviews with technical and business experts from IMCD Personal Care, who share relevant insights into megatrends such as ‘making a positive impact’, ‘the quest

Did you know? Global consumers are eager to embrace new technologies. According to recent research, 43% of Chinese beauty shoppers would be interested in a mobile app that recommends beauty products based on their needs. Meanwhile, 47% of US consumers would be interested in trying a facial skin care product with integrated diagnostic tools. (Source: Mintel: 2025 Beauty Trend Report).

for transparency’, ‘inclusivity’, and ‘entertaining experiences’. In this article,

opening their website with a questionnaire

we will focus on the inclusivity trend

on skin type, beauty interests or style

and how to meet increased demands

personality, which leads to a list of

for customisation in personal care

personalised product recommendations.

and cosmetics.

Great leaps in technology are making the entire process more intuitive.

TRUE INCLUSIVITY Global beauty brands are waking up to

EXPERT Q & A

the fact that true inclusivity is down to

IMCD Personal Care experts Danielle

the details. Take the growing number of

Wheeler, technical director Americas, and

colour cosmetic brands that are offering a

Ian Lawrence, vice president Americas

highly expanded skin tone shade range as

share their thoughts on what celebrating

standard, with labelling systems that don’t

individuality means to consumers today.

start with the lightest shade first.

What are the biggest global differences in

Understanding consumer difference means taking the time to get to know consumers’ needs and offering

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

self-expression and identity culture that personal care brands need to be aware of? Wheeler: A lot of trends in self-

personalised experiences. Leading brands

expression were previously driven by big

understand the importance of taking the

name personal care brands in Europe and

consumer on a journey, for example by

the US which dictated their perceptions

ETHNIC CARE

of what was considered conventionally attractive. Now, global indie brands from around the world are disrupting the marketplace with more niche expressions of what beauty can be, and the big players are struggling to catch-up by acquiring smaller indie brands. Lawrence: Social media has led to a new openness around mental health which is

We can support brands in staying agile by offering them tailored solutions, crafted from our vast ingredient portfolio

to innovation and to prioritise speed to market. Today’s personal care customers are always looking for something new and exciting, and they are willing to experiment. At IMCD, we can support brands in staying agile by offering them tailored solutions, crafted from our vast ingredient portfolio.

INCLUSIVE BEAUTY TREND CONCEPT

driving huge marketing changes in the US.

looking and feeling like their best at every

The concept of inclusive beauty represents

Consumers are recognising that makeup,

age. Many consumers also really care about

the idea that all individuals, no matter

hairstyles and nails can be a way of telling

finding personalised solutions that cater to

their background, age or gender, deserve

the world who they are, what they have

their unique needs.

to benefit from special consideration for

been through and what they believe in. But

At IMCD, we’re well-positioned to help

their specific skin and hair concerns. This

of course, change moves at a different pace

our customers respond to these trends. We

goes hand in hand with a commitment to

in different regions around the globe, so

look at what’s trending in different markets

meeting their aspirations and respecting

it’s important to be sensitive to consumer

and provide suppliers with multi-media

their individuality.

values and priorities in different markets.

kits to open their eyes to diverse consumer

Based on purchasing trends, what do

expectations. For example, we recently

you think are the top cosmetic/physical

helped suppliers become aware of the need

FORMULATING FOR DIVERSE HAIR TYPES

concerns of personal care consumers?

for proof of concept, as well as the growing

The experts at IMCD Personal Care US have

trend in intimate wellness.

developed a new formulation concept to

as is healthy ageing. The whole concept of

When it comes to product development

address the specific physiological needs of

‘anti-ageing’ doesn’t capture the mood of

and selection, what are the challenges in

individuals with more richly-melanated skin

the moment. People are more interested in

addressing every consumer’s individual

and highly textured hair. Highly textured

personal care needs, all at once?

hair tends to be more porous and prone to

Wheeler: Wellness is really important,

25 YEARS OF VALUE CREATION IMCD’s extensive global sourcing network, along with its unmatched regional insight into the trends and markets where it operates – are what set this supplier apart from the competition. The group offers functional and active ingredients, which add real value to formulations. IMCD sources its personal care specialties from some of the world’s most innovative suppliers. The group is passionate about understanding how trends evolve and applying insights to the solutions it co-creates with its partners. These solutions include skin and hair care products, colour cosmetics, toiletries, oral care products and fragrance brands – developed worldwide.

Lawrence: We don’t see it as a

breakage, which therefore requires more

challenge, because IMCD excels at this.

intense moisture. It is also more susceptible

We know it is important to always be open

to damage from styling methods such as chemical relaxers or heated styling tools. Rich in natural exotic butters and oil, IMCD’s treatment mask intensively repairs, moisturises and strengthens the scalp and hair that has been damaged by intense use of styling methods or colouring treatments. The formulation, available on request from IMCD, contains a natural active ingredient to purify and protect the hair from the effects of pollution. Its high emollient content makes it easier to comb hair and manage curls. •

To download a copy of IMCD’s Tomorrow’s Beauty trends commentary and find out more about its personal care business unit, visit https://bit.ly/3f20eVg.

IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

ETHNIC CARE

Deliver highly effective sebum and shine reduction The challenges experienced by African consumers when it comes to maintaining clear skin are a powerful reminder of why brands need to customise their formulations to deliver targeted products. Lipotec Active Ingredients, a Lubrizol Life Science company, has taken the concept of customised beauty a step further by expanding the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech ingredient to include African ethnic skin.

KIN OILINESS IS a common concern to many people around the world and in Africa. Usually linked to

teenage skin, where sebum production increases dramatically, shininess accompanies combination and oily skin types throughout adulthood. Therefore, many consumers may struggle with a shiny or greasy-looking skin, which is often associated with enlarged pores, blemishes and acne. How

Figure 1: 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient reduces the shiny aspect of the skin’s surface while perfectly maintaining moisture levels

this occurs is sebaceous glands secrete sebum to lubricate and waterproof the

to a study on ‘the ethnic differences in

skin. The majority of sebaceous glands

the structural properties of facial skin’

are located in the upper portion of the hair

published in December 2008, in the Journal

follicle of the pilosebaceous unit, and they

of Dermatological Science, authors Yoriko

are more abundant in the T-zone (being the

Sugiyama-Nakagiri, Keiichi Sugata, Akira

forehead, nose and chin) and cheeks.

Hachiya and Osamu Osanai stated that

Noticeable facial pores are another

African Americans showed substantially

skin care concern for many African

more severe impairment of the architecture

consumers, especially women. According

around facial pores than any other racial group.1 Although this data is pertinent to African American skin and not black African

KEY FEATURES OF MATMARINE BIOTECH INGREDIENT

skin, this and other published skin care

• a great ingredient for all consumers prone to oily skin

skin types.

• targets MC5-R to decrease sebum levels • reduces pores for a uniform complexion • offers immediate and long-lasting mattifying and hydrating effects • biotechnological ingredient with a short INCI name • naturality established according to ISO 16128

research does show that darker skin types tend to have more enlarged pores when

Figure 2: After 28 days of treatment with 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient, the appearance of pores was significantly reduced compared to the placebo

compared to Caucasian and Asian, or lighter Matmarine biotech ingredient induces type I collagen synthesis, which reinforces

SUSTAINABLE BIOTECH INGREDIENT

skin’s firmness and cohesion, contributing

In an effort to help consumers get their

to reducing pores and, consequently,

oily skin under control, Lipotec Active

the secretion of sebum. Genes related

Ingredients developed Matmarine

to inflammatory response and oxidative

biotech ingredient. This fermentation-

processes, induced by increased sebum

based extract obtained from a marine

secretion, are also regulated by the

microorganism reduces the protein levels

ingredient, confirming its high performance

of MC5-C, which is a key promoter found

and multifunctional benefits.

in mature sebocytes. This approach

The ingredient also has a favourable

• 100% natural origin content

is also considered efficient in treating

sustainability profile thanks to its

• COSMOS approved.

imperfections related to increased sebum

biotechnological factors and its 100%

levels such as enlarged pores and shininess.

natural origin.

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

ETHNIC CARE

the images of the cheek area (close to the nose wing), to determine the coefficient of the visibility of pores after treatment. The results showed that 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient significantly minimised pores in South African skin by 20.1% (see Figures 1, 2 and 3). Available throughout Southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Matmarine biotech ingredient is a truly

Figure 3: Digital pictures taken with parallel polarised light on day 0, 14 days and 28 days confirmed the in vivo efficacy of Matmarine biotech ingredient in decreasing shininess and the appearance of pores on South African ethnic skin

inclusive technology for diversity-focused skin care products. The ingredient offers multifunctional, high-performance and

CONFIRMED EFFECTIVE ON DARK SKIN TYPES

reduction efficacy of 3% Matmarine biotech

sustainability benefits as it reduces sebum,

ingredient on South African skin. The study

maintains proper skin hydration over a long

To help brands and manufacturers develop

involved 22 South African female volunteers

period and is of a 100% natural origin.

skin care solutions aligned to the needs of

aged between 18 and 45, with combination

These new in vivo results complete

African consumers, Lubrizol Life Science

to oily skin, ranging in phototype from V to

the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech

in vivo tested the skin mattifying and pore

VI. The volunteers either applied a cream

ingredient and reconfirm its capacity to

containing 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient

harmonise skin’s complexion. •

Matmarine biotech ingredient is a truly inclusive technology for diversity-focused skin care products

or a placebo cream to half their face, twice a day for 28 days. Thereafter, skin mattification, moisturisation and pore analysis parameters were evaluated.

Reference: 1. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/23457749_ Ethnic_differences_in_the_structural_properties_of_ facial_skin

High resolution digital photographs were taken using the Colorface system while frame scan software was used to analyse

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART

RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE – QUALITY DRIVEN

Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

ETHNIC CARE

Milder, more affordable and natural solutions to care for hair

Pre-treatments for ethnic hair continue to include harsh practices like lye-based relaxation. Although many African women are embracing their natural hair, there is still a need for treatments to increase hair’s manageability. Yet they should be milder in nature. Similarly, post treatments in the ethnic market have been slow to evolve – including styling – where problems like flaking are highlighted. Technical manager, Jacques Strydom and Karen Meyer discuss how AECI Specialty Chemicals addresses these concerns.

TYLING POLYMERS ARE products that

AECI Specialty Chemicals has turned its focus

when applied, form a thin film over the

to a bio-based styling polymer, which is derived

surface of the hair, causing adjacent strands

from corn, providing numerous benefits in hair

superior to PVP, with significant increased curl retention as a function of polymer loading.

to be attracted to one another through capillary

care formulations. This polymer also has an

forces, thereby holding the hair together until

attractive INCI of hydrolysed corn starch. It acts

STRAIGHTENING METHODS AND CONCERNS

the film is broken by washing or combing. These

as a versatile film former and styling aid, which

For the past few decades, commercial relaxers

polymers are used in hair sprays, setting/styling

offers a hold ranging from exceptional stiffness to

have been utilised mainly to manage and beautify

gels, waxes and other styling aids.

soft-touch styling.

textured African and Brazilian hair, but these

Trends in the global hair styling market

consumer groups have decided it is time to embrace

the use of natural ingredients in on-the-go hair

COMPETITIVELY PRICED AND HIGHLY EFFECTIVE

styling products.

The bio-based styling polymer is supplied as an

Commercial relaxers are known to be corrosive

easy-to-use powder that is dispersible both in

to the hair and scalp, causing permanent damage to

a clear trend towards natural alternatives to

cold and hot water. It is best used with a rheology

the hair follicle structure and scalp irritation. They

the commonly used styling polymers such as

modifier to improve the particle size suspension.

are also recommended for use only in professional

polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). This trend is expected

The product is compatible with a range of

salons. The most well-known relaxers are the lye

to continue to grow exponentially over the next few

rheology modifiers and has the added benefit of

based (sodium hydroxide) products, no-lye (lithium

years, as consumers become more aware of the

being hygroscopic.

and calcium hydroxide) products, thioglycolate- and

include the customisation of products including

Globally, the hair fixative market is showing

ingredients incorporated in the products they buy,

It allows flexibility in hair care styling from

natural beauty and only use treatments to protect the hair and make it more manageable.

guanidine-based products. All these alkaline relaxers

and the origin thereof. Concerns around PVP include

a stiff hold to subtle definition and supports

cause structural damage to the hair because they

flaking in dry conditions and tackiness in hot, humid

textures from waxes to sprays. It is also

irreversibly break the disulfide bonds and the high

conditions, leading to a dull appearance of the hair.

important to mention that, unlike many natural

pH results in cuticle erosion, loss of the hydrophobic

alternatives, this styling polymer is more

lipid layer, a rise in plasticity and increased porosity.

THE BENEFITS OF HYDROLYSED CORN STARCH IN HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS

affordable and competitive in pricing when

hydrolysed corn starch has undergone extensive

scalp. In the last 20 years, some multistep methods

• improved curl retention

performance testing in various formulations.

have been introduced based on the combination

• frizz control

It has been compared to PVP in a styling gel

of chemical, thermal and mechanical processes.

formulation, at various percentages. A hair

One of the most topical is the Brazilian blowout

stiffness analysis was done, which showed that

or Brazilian keratin treatment. This has gained

that the stiffness of hydrolysed corn starch

popularity in recent years for its smoothing

was comparable to PVP. When likening humidity

efficiency and the good aesthetic effect it provides.

resistance, the product also showed to be

The enduring straightening action of the Brazilian

• style durability • maintains humidity resistance • enhances volume • provides sebum absorption.

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

compared to PVP. AECI Specialty Chemicals’ special grade of

Today the hair care market is looking for alternative straightening methods that are less damaging to the hair and less irritating on the

ETHNIC CARE

GLYOXYLIC ACID IN HAIR CARE APPLICATIONS

higher temperatures between 235°C and 250°C

new efficient and safe hair straightening treatments

and makes use of thioglycolate and proteins to

with a semi-permanent relaxing effect on wavy,

restructure hair. This technique has the same

curly or kinky hair.

Glyoxylic acid 50% can be used in hair cosmetics at the following concentrations:

disadvantages of alkaline relaxers.

• 6% to 12% in mild straightening products to smooth hair, increase shine and manageability of wavy to medium curly hair (types 2 and 3 according to the Andre Walker system).

SAFE AND MILD STRAIGHTENING

with a low acid pH of 1.5 to 2.5. Glyoxylic acid 50%

Introducing glyoxylic acid 50% by AECI Specialty

can be easily dissolved in the water phase of an

Chemicals – this is an organic acid with hair

emulsion and in other aqueous cosmetics.

• 12% to 20% in high-performance hair straightening for tightly curly and kinky hair resistant to smoothing treatments (types 3 and 4). • 0.1% to 1% as pH adjuster to neutralise cosmetic formulations with high pH.

blowout is based on the application of a cream followed by mechanical treatment using a hot iron

Hair relaxers with glyoxylic acid are typically formulated as aqueous liquids or fluid o/w emulsions

straightening, softening and conditioning effects.

The use of an acidic straightening formulation

Glyoxylic acid has a small molecular size, allowing

is suggested in combination with a pre-treatment

it to penetrate the cuticle into the cortex of the hair

alkaline shampoo and a post-treatment hair

strand and bond to the keratin.

conditioner. The product should be applied to the

As opposed to alkaline treatments, glyoxylic acid

hair using an applicator brush. The low viscosity

is capable of acidic cleavage of the weak bonds (salt,

of the formulation will favour its penetration deep

hydrogen and Van der Waals bonds), which link the

into the hair during processing. This may take from

polypeptide chains of keratin together, in order to

30 to 60 minutes depending on the hair type and

form new cross-links. The carboxylic and aldehyde

initial curliness. After processing, the hair is re-

groups of glyoxylic acid react with the amine and

combed, dried and thoroughly hot ironed to assure

sulphur-containing groups present in hair keratin,

the straight configuration, and then hair is rinsed.

resulting in the formation of stable bonds.

Additional post-treatment conditioning cosmetics

Glyoxylic acid provides a long-lasting

plate. The most controversial point is the use of

straightening effect on hair fibres and it improves

formaldehyde levels up to 12% in certain products,

manageability, tactile feel and appearance without

which is toxicologically unacceptable, hazardous

causing damage to the hair and or the scalp

to users and workers and prohibited in terms of

irritations typically associated with hydroxide-based

cosmetic legislation. Japanese hair straightening

or thioglycolate products. Therefore, it is a high-

is a similar composite method, which works at

performance hair conditioning agent that allows

can be used as final step in the process. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com or thureya.sarlie@aeciworld.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

ETHNIC CARE

Address maskne with simple, sensitive-skin friendly ingredients Daily use of face masks can weaken the skin barrier and create the perfect conditions for acne breakouts. Also known as ‘maskne’, this condition has become a key concern for everyone. Vantage Specialty Chemicals has designed a series of solutions for acne-prone and sensitive skin.

ASKNE HAS BEEN one of the most

STEP 1: DETOX THE PORES

STEP 2: GENTLE CLEANSING

disruptive beauty trends emanating

Curoxyl 42 (patented USP Benzoyl Peroxide

Patented Curcylic 40 is a keratolytic agent that

from the COVD-19 pandemic.

Gel) has become the benchmark for Benzoyl

works by gently and safely exfoliating dead skin

Worldwide, there has been a flurry of innovation

Peroxide (BPO) in anti-acne formulas. BPO

cells, speeding up the natural process of skin

around anti-irritation skin care products that

is a tried-and-true acne monographed

turnover. When the rate of exfoliation increases,

specifically address maskne. This is the acne

technology. Curoxyl 42 is an aqueous based,

that occurs with frequent mask wearing.

micronised BPO dispersion in the form

More and more consumers are looking to incorporate solutions in their daily skin care routine to overcome maskne challenges

Although face coverings continue to be

of a gel. It is an effective replacement for

necessary to flatten the curve, so many people

traditional forms of BPO and is clinically

have been experiencing maskne as a result

proven to reduce acne lesions and dark

of prolonged mask wearing. The no-air seal

spots. Moreover, Curoxyl 42 is supplied

pressure scenario of wearing a mask coupled

as a liquid, risk-free solution for manufacturers

with the rubbing of fabric against the face

that aren’t equipped to handle solid

makes it easier for dirt and bacteria to clog

peroxide powders.

pores and cause irritation, allergic reactions,

Lipobead Detox with Coconut Charcoal

acne, lines and discoloration. More and more

MB is a small black bead that incorporates

cells are less likely to build up in the follicle to

consumers are looking to incorporate a solution

activated charcoal into the matrix of the dry

form blackheads and pimples. Scientific studies

in their daily skin care routines to overcome

Lipobead. The matrix is composed of naturally

have shown that Salicylic Acid improves skin

maskne challenges.

derived cellulose. When formulated into a

thickness, barrier function and even collagen

product with a minimum of 15% free water,

production. In addition, it is well documented

solutions for your target market to address

the Lipobead will soften. On application, the

that Salicylic Acid has anti-inflammatory

maskne, Vantage offers a variety of recommended

Lipobead will rub out completely, depositing

properties, making it an ideal solution to

ingredients for cleansing and hydrating products.

the activated charcoal onto the skin to help

relieving inflammation caused by face masks.

These ingredients are discussed in this article in

draw out dirt, oil and toxins while minimising

three simple skin care steps.

the appearance of pores.

If you are interested in developing skin care

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

the skin is clearer, smoother, brighter and dead

PFJ-S Beads are a next generation biodegradable alternative to polyethylene

ETHNIC CARE

a rich and dense foam for mild rinse-off formulations. Because of its extreme mildness, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate has been favoured for medicated applications targeted at sensitive skin or irritated scalp. Metaupon surfactants also provide a great skin feel, contributing to an overall improved sensorial experience.

STEP 3: ERASING THE DAMAGE OF FACE MASKS To address the growing need for sensitive-skinfriendly ingredients, Vantage has developed BioSignal Lipid 10 MB. This bio-mimetic phosphatidylglycerol modulates the signalling pathways involved in skin inflammation and ultimately reduces the visible signs of irritation, while promoting long-term hydration. During clinical trials, BioSignal Lipid 10 MB not only performed extremely well in restoring skin barrier by stimulating the production of key epidermal proteins, but also led to a notable increase in skin hydration measured over the span of the four-week study. This unique combination of benefits makes it an ideal ingredient to restore the skin barrier damaged by the prolonged used of face masks. Hylasome EG10 is a chemically crosslinked hyaluronic acid derived from a non-animal

Formulation guide: Dual action clear skin toner

Phase A

Function

63.95

Aqueous vehicle

source, designed to harness the strong

Ingredient

INCI

Distilled Water

Aqua

Curcylic 40

Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (and) Salicylic Acid

5.00

Active

Bio-Signal Lipid-10 MB

Glycerin (and) Phospholipid

0.50

Active

Blue #1 -1% Soln

Aqua (and) CI 42090

0.05

Colourant

hyaluronic acid.

Diocide

Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol

0.50

Preservative

wax extracted from the jojoba seeds. When

DW Jojoba Golden

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

hydrating potential of traditional hyaluronic acid into a unique non-equilibrium gel form. When applied onto skin, the tightly bound water domains slowly release water and contribute to intense hydration. This ultra-high molecular weight cross polymer demonstrates five times the water binding capacity of traditional DW Jojoba Golden is a skin mimetic liquid

30.00

Emollient

This dual action toner combines the cleansing properties of Curcylic 40 Salicylic Acid and the soothing and restoring benefits of DW Jojoba Oil and BioSignal Lipid 10 MB. This two-phase toner is formulated without emulsifiers to respect sensitive skin and keep it clear, soft and moisturised.

used at 20% in an emulsion, DW Jojoba Golden immediately increases skin hydration by 70% while a four-week regimen ultimately leads to an 80% increase in skin moisturisation. Seabuckthorn oil is from the fruits of Hippophae rhamnoides L. which have a long history of traditional use in Tibetan and

beads, offering a different performance

Mongolian medicine. Seabuckthorn oil is

and skin feel compared to traditional

non-comedogenic and perfectly suited as

exfoliants while being cost-effective. Ideal

part of a regimen intended for acne-prone

for use in products with ‘oil-free’ or ‘non-

skin. Its unsaturated fatty acid profile, rich

hydrogenated’ label claims, PFJ-S Beads are

in palmitooleic acid (omega-7) and gamma-

perfectly spherical, decreasing the risk of

linolenic acid (omega-6), contribute to the

skin irritation. They provide a gentle physical

excellent benefits of the oil on skin conditioning

• use the right mask

exfoliation and stimulation of the skin, which

and complexion improvement. •

• thoroughly cleanse skin

can perfectly complement the chemical

GOOD ADVICE

Maskne breakouts do not have to be an unpreventable trade-off for being able to step outside the home. These easy steps can considerably reduce the risk of skin break outs:

• make sure to repair and restore the skinhydrating barrier.

exfoliating promoted by Curcylic 40. Vantage Metaupon surfactants are high performance foam enhancers that create

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – Kim.MacCallum@vantagegrp.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

COLOUR COSMETICS

Makeup that defines eyes while caring for skin

Almost 18 months down the line, we still find ourselves in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic in Africa. We have adapted, and masks and social distancing have become a way of life. We have also mastered the art of virtual meetings and adjusted our beauty routines accordingly with makeup to meet our new needs. In this context, striking eye makeup and bold lipsticks play a central role. In a time when personal interaction is limited, we have to let our personalities shine across virtual boundaries. By Karen Maier of Merck

HILE MULTI-TASKING is not a new

The joy of purple, in whichever shade, is that it

trend in cosmetics, the pandemic has

always looks good on dark complexions. Imagine

added an extra focus on self-care

soft pastel purple or lilac as part of an artfully

wear sunny orange nails to add a little pop of colour to their look.

as part of the multi-tasking package and this

made up eye, or a dark intense purple on elegantly

TONES OF BLUE AND GREEN

has spilled over into colour cosmetics. More and

shaped nails. What about an antique whisper

Let’s not forget the blue and green hues. We see

more decorative products include an element of

amethyst on your lips? In addition to purple, we

blues ranging from soft subtle grey-blue

care, for example eye makeup with anti-wrinkle

can look forward to beautiful browns, from light

to blue-black located on the other

actives, moisturising lipsticks, blemish sticks that

brown, almost bronze shades to red-brown,

side of the spectrum. There is also

contain skin brightening actives or foundations

coppery and deep and intense brown which looks

turquoise, which leads straight into

containing anti-oxidants to offer anti-pollution

good on defined brows and artfully lined eyes.

the green palette. The upcoming

protection. This is a trend formulators should take

seasons favour more subtle,

note of and ensure that they give consumers what

pastel shades of green, yet

they want.

a hint of intense dark green

Interesting and transforming textures remain

also comes through.

a significant element in world of makeup, think of a lip mousse instead of lipstick, eyeshadow jellies

Did you know?

that transform to a powdery feel on application, or very creamy luscious products that softly envelope the

THE WARMTH OF ORANGE

skin. But what about

Orange is a colour which radiates joy and warmth

the colour palette?

and it abounds on the African continent, from our dramatic sunsets to the colour of the sun-baked

THE JOY OF PURPLE

soil, or that of the flames of an open fire. This

The current and upcoming colour palette strongly

joyful colour is perfect for African makeup.

features shades of purple. Depending on where you

For the more adventurous girl there are

are located on our vast continent, these will either

statement lips in bold bright orange, or it can

be soft-hued and delicate or bold and intense in line

be used more subtly as a soft tone on the

with the season in your hemisphere.

cheeks. Even the more timid among us can

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

You can achieve brilliant eye-catching effects at very low addition rates, especially in transparent formulations. This benefit makes Ronastar glass flake pigments particularly cost effective. Adding one or even a blend of Ronastar pigments to an already beautiful, trendy product will take it to the next level of compelling allure.

COLOUR COSMETICS

These colours can be used in surprising ways, such as a blue-black eyebrow pomade, which can be applied with the fingers or a sharp-edged brush for more precise definition. An intense blue graphic eye-pencil or an ocean blue-green jellied eye colour are other innovative ideas to explore with the blue and green colour palette – the choices are endless.

This superb collection of glass flake pigments will brighten your colour cosmetic formulations with mirror-like sparkle

touch on skin. Ronastar glass flake pigments also have a very low heavy metal content. Despite these attractive benefits, nothing compares to the beauty of the Ronastar glass flakes pigments. The range incorporates silver-white pigments with two particle sizes, interference pigments, the jewel like tones of the mass-tone pigments

HOW TO PROVIDE THE PERFECT FINISH

formulations with mirror-like sparkle. These pigments offer multi-

in gold, copper, and silver as well as two stunning colour travel pigments.

Now that we have a

dimensional sparkle and pure

sense of the colour

brilliance due to the substrate

lives in disarray, in Africa we are resilient. We

palettes, we should explore

technology. Perfect coating

have adapted to wearing masks, communicating

the effects that accompany

technology matters when

via our digital devices and keeping our distance,

these appealing shades. There are pigments in Merck’s portfolio to provide the perfect finish. In addition to texture, effects add an extra dimension to makeup,

selecting pigments, as this is what produces superior skin feel as well as exceptional sparkle. These pigments are unique with

Although COVID-19 has thrown our

finding unique ways to express our beauty and stay on trend. We can express ourselves by emphasising our eyes when our lips are covered. We enhance our

whether it’s a matte effect, subtle sheen, alluring

clear and bright colours thanks to

appearance for virtual meetings, and ultimately,

gloss or a dazzling sparkle. However, as the current

the pure white substrate technology

we take care our ourselves using products that

demand leans strongly in the direction of sparkly

which enhances reflection and

not only beautify us but take care of our skin in

and almost glittery effects, the Ronastar glass

pigment stability. The large particles

the process. •

flakes range of pigments deserves a closer look. This superb collection of glass flake pigments will brighten your colour cosmetic

with a very even surface coating and rounded edges, ensure high brilliance and a smooth

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

PACKAGING

Automated inspection vital to accelerate vaccine delivery

With the COVID-19 pandemic, pharmaceutical manufacturers are under intense pressure to produce and distribute large quantities of vials and vaccines. TracePack has a range of solutions for vaccine manufacturing and distribution, including labelling systems specifically developed to label vials. Its machine vision and barcode reading systems are well suited to vaccine inspection, packaging and traceability.

HE COMPACT 4.0 enveloping industrial automatic labelling system for wrap-around applications on ampoules, vials, test tubes, syringes, single doses, blow fill seals and all cylindrical pharmaceutical products has been designed to be used both offline and inline. For offline application, it is suitable even with the addition of a rotary table. When used inline, the labelling system can be connected to other packaging machines, such as fillers, working at a speed from 10 to 300 pieces per minute. This system is part of the Arca Pharma line of labelling machines, which is a specific line designed and dedicated to the labelling, coding, traceability and serialisation of pharmaceutical products. High standards of quality, safety, productivity and accessibility are guaranteed and provided by these lines. For product traceability, the labelling system can be integrated with an inkjet or laser marker.

TECHNOLOGY TO AUTOMATE INSPECTION To keep pace with rising global healthcare demands, pharma manufacturers rely on machine vision, deep learning and industrial barcode reading systems to automate vaccine packaging inspection, tracking and distribution. Whether supplying vaccines for immunisations, epidemics, or pandemics, solutions from TracePack help manufacturers comply with strict regulations while ensuring safe, fast and reliable delivery.

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

Barcode inspection technology from TracePack verifies the quality of required elements on packaging, such as logos, date/lot information

Did you know? The DataMan fixed-mount barcode readers decipher 1D and 2D codes as small as 3mm on medical devices to track and trace these products and help combat counterfeits. DataMan barcode verifiers also offer true ISO-compliant, inline or offline vaccine barcode verification and generate detailed reports for traceability, compliance and preventive maintenance.

Vaccine manufacturers need to perfrom meticulous checks of dosage containers to avoid defective products from entering the distribution chain. As a result, vial, ampoule and prefilled syringe packaging must also be inspected for accuracy. Missing components or packaging defects can affect patient safety and brand reputation and may result in heavy

fines, unwanted waste and costly recalls. With inspection technology from TracePack, pharma manufcaturers can confirm vaccine boxes and kits are correctly packaged and compliant with strict regulations. The track-and-trace technology also helps to ensure supply chain visibility to guarantee machine uptime, high read rates and fast delivery. THE BENEFITS OF DEEP LEARNING Machine vision and deep learning systems inspect the presence of cracks, particulates, proper assembly and other potential defects during the primary packaging process. They also identify problems upstream which helps to keep patients safe and avoid costly recalls and returns. Vial caps are inspected using machine vision and deep learning to check for scratches, punctures and other defects.

PACKAGING

TracePack offers automated technology for particulate inspection of vials and ampoules

The 4.0 wrap-around industrial automatic labelling system from Arca Pharma

This also improves product quality, minimises scrap and increases throughput. Deep learning inspects the body of vials and ampoules for imperfections such as scratches, bubbles and any inclusion that could cause contamination or a breach of sterility. This technology also identifies unwanted particulate matter in glass vials

"Missing components or packaging defects can affect patient safety and brand reputation and may result in heavy fines, unwanted waste and costly recalls" and ampoules to prevent contaminated products from reaching consumers. Deep learning eliminates countrelated deviations of vials and ampoules,

PharmaTrack Seal

PharmaTrack Seal - Ejector

OCR Mislabelling

Product Security - Label Errors

preventing time-consuming and expensive rework resulting from miscounts. At the same time, it inspects vaccine kits for overlapping or missing parts and ensures the correct parts are present and in the right orientation. Deep learning can also be used to read printed information on packaging and to verify the quality of required elements such as logos, date/lot information and other graphics. • TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

Contact TracePack today to learn about the Pharma Seal 4.0 which offers high-speed, tamperevident label applications on pharmaceutical packaging.

www.tracepack.co.za | +27 10 020 7221

PharmaTrack Seal - Inkjet Print Module

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

PACKAGING

The potential of robotics for the ‘lights-out factory’ The term ‘lights-out factory’ is generally presented as something to aspire to for manufacturers. But is the concept – which essentially means manufacturing without humans – a realistic goal?

ODAY, THERE ARE some fully ‘lightsout’ factories operating worldwide – such as the Foxconn plant in Shenzen, China, which the World Economic Forum has recognised as a leader in the fourth industrial revolution. Yet these examples are few and far between. The concept is finding the most traction in situations where a lack of human interaction is

automation technology can be found. But, beyond that point, it becomes unviable to continue automating.

a benefit. This includes applications with a risk of contamination, such as food processing or specialist electronic component manufacturing. It may also include sectors where the product margins can be higher – such as pharmaceutical production – where a return on investment is more achievable. These examples nearly all require a high-volume, low product-mix scenario to make them viable, and this is at odds with a broader move towards low-volume, high product-mix across manufacturing as businesses move towards creating greater choice for their customers. The 100% automated, fully ‘lights-out’ factory is not a realistic goal for a large proportion of manufacturing businesses currently in operation. However, for all manufacturers, a point exists somewhere between zero and 100% automation where the greatest return on investment in

situations where human flexibility is still the best match to undertake complex processes – for example, where improvisation or complicated decision making is required to react to an unexpected event. In the most basic of examples, let’s consider a bottle filling line. If a bottle jams, it isn’t easy to rectify using automation. However, for a human, it is relatively straightforward to address.

MANUFACTURING NEEDS PEOPLE A key reason why a fully ‘lights-out’ factory is not viable is that manufacturing needs people. As advanced as today’s automation technologies are becoming, there are

Ongoing advances in automation technology allow manufacturers to move closer to full automation A significant benefit of digitalisation is that it enables the collection of valuable process data which can be analysed to identify the routecauses of production problems. This can then

inform the adaptation of lines and machinery to minimise, or even eliminate, machine stoppages. Sticking with the bottle filling line scenario, it would be possible to redesign the filling machine’s guides to eliminate the bottle jam. But, if a later batch of the supplier’s bottles falls out of spec, the issue could reappear despite best efforts. It is possible to put in steps to measure the bottles before they are fed into the line, but then there could be a material issue that can cause another machine fault. Essentially, you can keep adding steps to optimise a line but this never truly guarantees the elimination of all potential problems. Examples such as these are a case in point that it’s not practical to automate the last 10% of a production facility to achieve a fully ‘lights-out’ factory. Which also leads to the common trend of the manufacturing workforce shifting from traditional operational duties to supervisory roles. PROOF OF CONCEPT A critical step for manufacturers is to identify to what extent and in which areas automation will offer them the best return on investment. This can be quite a complex task, but many systems integrators and technology vendors can carry out the analysis and develop a proof of concept – from single applications to entire facilities. Omron, for example, has a dedicated proofof-concept laboratory in Milton Keynes, UK, as well as other high-tech facilitates available across the globe. These sites are often used to construct a prototype system to offer a physical demonstration as part of the proofof-concept process. ENABLING TECHNOLOGIES Ongoing advances in automation technology allow manufacturers to move closer to full

Omron’s innovation lab in Milton Keyes, UK

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

automation. Machine vision is a great example. The development of 3D vision systems means that more complex pick-and-place operations are now feasible. Where previously items needed to be carefully presented to pick-and place-systems, vision technology can now

PACKAGING

readily identify objects randomly positioned in transport bins. Robot technology is a fundamental enabler of the automated factory and critical to any ‘lights-out’ projects. The movement of materials, sub-assemblies and other items around and within the production process, also referred to intra-logistics, would need to be a key consideration. Traditionally this would have involved forklift trucks. But in today’s modern factory, mobile robots can automate these tasks, managed by a supervisory control system that ensures materials are delivered to machines, work in progress is transferred between production systems and finished goods are taken back to the warehouse. Mobile robots can carry significant loads and working seamlessly with one another and with humans when occupying the same space. When it comes to automating traditionally human-operated tasks, where a degree of dexterity is required, cobots or collaborative robots offer a good solution. Despite their name suggesting otherwise, cobots can also Omron’s MoMa hybrid concept

Mobile robots can work seamlessly with humans when occupying the same space

be a valuable addition to a ‘lights-out’ scenario. In this instance, although the collaborative aspect would not be so important, cobots are designed to carry out more complex tasks, lending themselves to replacing manual assembly or processing tasks. They are simple to programme, particularly when compared to more traditional industrial robots. If you have a high-mix environment with many products and tasks, the cost of reprogramming an industrial robot tends to outweigh its viability. This makes a cobot simple to re-deploy for different tasks, which is a particular advantage in high productmix scenarios. Where high-speed repeatability is the goal, industrial robots – such as delta robots – are ideal. Recent developments in robotics have identified innovative ways of deploying the technology. Omron’s MoMa is a hybrid concept that combines a mobile robot, collaborative robot and a vision system, opening a whole new

range of possible functions. The combination of mobility and dexterity means that tasks previously hard to automate – like dealing with a jam in a bottle filling line – are now much easier to tackle, taking manufacturers a step closer to enabling a ‘lights-out’ factory. THE FACTORY OF THE FUTURE Will a ‘lights-out’ factory be the norm in the future? While they are a rarity today, as automation technology continues to advance, it’s clear that fully ‘lights-out’ operations will become more viable for a growing number of manufacturers in the years to come. Where today a manufacturer may not be able to justify automating the final 10% of its production process, this figure will shrink to 5% and then 2% and may eventually reach 0%. What is important is that manufacturers fully understand where automation can best deliver value to their business today. This is something that technology vendors and systems integrators are well equipped to support. • Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info_sa@omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_02_d01.indd 1

09-06-20 10:22

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

PACKAGING

Elsewedy Print House boosts short-run production with HP Indigo Egyptian-based packaging printer, Elsewedy recently invested in a HP Indigo 12000 digital press, which is the first of its kind in the Middle East and North Africa. The company chose to make the investment in order to unlock new market opportunities and expand its capacity for short to medium runs.

OCATED IN THE Sharqia Governorate just outside of Cairo, Elsewedy is a key player in the Middle East’s digital printing

industry and has over 20 years’ experience in serving international brands. The company produces packaging for many industries, including cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, and

Did you know? Brands use HP Indigo for its high print quality, just-in-time production and the ability to engage customers through customisation and personalisation thanks to its unique variable data printing capabilities.

food and beverage. Elsewedy has specialised in commercial printing and folding cartons since it was founded

productivity, saving valuable time by speeding

22 years ago. In recent years, the printing

up production process. The new press has

company has increasingly focused its operations

eliminated the need for pre-print processing and

on producing printed packaging after recognising

enabled the company to achieve final outputs

that its manpower and design capability was

without the use of image setters, plates and

better suited to the folding carton sector, which is

other analogue elements.

now its main target market.

The HP Indigo 12000’s high productivity, automated print quality control and Pantone-

MEETING NEW MARKET DEMANDS

certified inks have also enhanced Elsewedy’s

Elsewedy had begun to identify rising market

outputs and allow the company to remain

demand for short and medium runs and was keen

innovative and a leader in digital printing.

to enter the growing market of high-value, highdecided to invest in an HP Indigo 12000 digital

SHORTER RUNS WITH A FASTER TURNAROUND

press so to meet these new demands and achieve

Discussing the company’s latest installation,

small to medium-run orders.

Elsewedy’s owner, Medhat Elsewedy, said:

impact short-run packaging printing. It therefore

Since investing in HP Indigo technology, the packaging printing company has optimised its

“With the acquisition of the HP Indigo 12000, we have the ability to cater to this changing

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

This press is the first of its kind in the Middle East and North Africa, and we are thrilled to be able to drive the innovation in the Egyptian market for our customers Nachum Korman, global head, industrial

environment of shorter runs, faster turnaround

GTM, HP, also commented on Elsewedy’s

times, and the constant demand for innovation.

newest investment.

This press is the first of its kind in the Middle

“I am very excited to see Elsewedy

East and North Africa, and we are thrilled to

at the forefront of innovation and digital

be able to drive the innovation in the Egyptian

transformation in the region and for

market for our customers.”

making HP their partner of choice. The HP

Although the food and beverage industry will

The 75cm format HP Indigo 12000 digital press produces the widest commercial application range. Built on the best-selling and proven HP Indigo 10000 digital press, the press brings breakthrough printing capabilities that extend unique, high-value opportunities to grow business

The executive team of Elsewedy showcasing the new HP Indigo 12000 digital press installed at the Egyptian-based packaging printer

Indigo 12000 will surely help Elsewedy

continue to be the main focus of the print house,

expand into untapped markets in digital

Elsewedy’s investment into HP Indigo technology

and provide them and their customers an

has allowed it to target new applications such

attractive competitive edge and agility as

as security printing, metalised boxes and photo

the market evolves,” he added. •

albums. The investment has also enabled the company to tap into fast-moving trends such as personalisation, which has allowed its customers to gain a competitive edge on all of their packaged products.

Elsewedy – elsewedyprint.com HP – www.hp.com/uk-en/ commercial-printers

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

Kirsch Pharma moves into new premises and enters a growth phase On 26 March, Kirsch Pharma South Africa moved into Plumbago Office Park in Kempton Park, Johannesburg, South Africa. This new facility is more than three times the size of the company’s previous premises.

GLOBAL SITE AWARDED FOR DESIGN EXCELLENCE The exterior of Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s new premises proudly features the company logo

IRSCH PHARMA SOUTH Africa was established in 1993 and supplies raw materials to the pharmaceutical and food industries. “The raw materials we supply are not manufactured in Africa and over the last few decades customers have both requested an expanded basket as inputs into their manufactured consumer products and have consolidated their buying, so we have undergone significant growth,” says Hermann Broschk, managing director of Kirsch Pharma’s South African subsidiary. The result was a need for the local subsidiary, which Broschk says is the secondlargest in the international group, to seek new premises. The company’s state-of-the-art building consists of a 400m² corporate office and 3 500m² warehouse designed to maximise the height to cater for extra pallet space within the warehouse and deep yards outside to accommodate super link trucks. “Premises suitable for pharmaceutical storage are not easy to find, but our new warehouse has reduced our container offload turnaround time from three hours to 20 minutes. The boom in our part of the industry has largely been driven by growth in consumer products centred around health maintenance and COVID-19, such as vitamin supplements, though this has been offset by a flagging flu industry because we have had no flu season,” he explains. A TRUSTWORTHY NAME IN THE PHARMA INDUSTRY As a result of stringent quality and documentation processes, Kirsch Pharma has become a reputable name in pharmaceutical raw materials, if not a trusted brand among

Kirsch Pharma South Africa commissioned the services of Marilize Jacobs from Pigs Can Fly Interiors to ensure the new office space and furnishings are both modern and timeless with clean lines and a unified look and feel

A interior view of a section of the 3 500m² warehouse

consumers of manufactured products. The company has also maintained its pricing stability during volatile currency markets. The organisation has maintained its excellent reputation as a supplier throughout South Africa with its prominence also rapidly gaining ground in Africa. “Reliability and traceability, especially for pharmaceutical manufacturers, is crucial. This also partly explains our recent 30% to 35% annualised growth. We have nearly doubled our customers in the last six years and have been successfully exporting to Southern Africa, though the market is highly competitive.” Broschk says Kirsch Pharma is taking a pragmatic approach to the current market boom. “It is clear that many other businesses are struggling currently and footfall for some of our customers has been significantly reduced. E-commerce and the vaccine rollout may revive some downstream industries, so we will need to do what we can to adapt to buying patterns.” •

Kirsch Pharma HealthCare has been recognised for innovative design excellence at the South African Property Owners Association (SAPOA) Property Development Awards 2020. The award, the most prestigious of its kind for the South African commercial real estate industry, was given for the company’s new finished formulations production site in Bissendorf, Wedemark in Germany. Despite not being on South African soil, the state-of-the-art German factory and head office were designed by the South African architectural firm SAOTA, headed by Stefan Antoni, Philip Olmesdahl, Greg Truen, Phillippe Fouche and Mark Bullivant – names synonymous with innovation and excellence in the architecture industry. Broschk explained that the relationship between the company and Antoni is a result of the chairman of the global company having a long history of doing business in South Africa - before registering the company. “The referral was via word of mouth from mutual neighbours in Cape Town, South Africa. Our chairman spends four to five months annually in Cape Town and has built the South African subsidiary over more than 30 years,” he says.

Kirsch Pharma South Africa – www.kirschpharma.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

A unique multifunctional lactose grade for DC formulations While direct compression or DC has been known for many years, it has only recently become more established. This is thanks to the introduction of excipients specifically designed for DC. The advantages of DC include fewer processing stages and the elimination of heat and moisture effects.1 Pauline Janssen and Marly Bastiaansen of DFE Pharma discuss SuperTab 24AN as an ideal excipient to support formulators in expanding the use of DC.

ACTOSE IS ONE of the most commonly

above 93.5°C, resulting in predominant

used tablet diluents for DC, especially

crystallisation of anhydrous β-lactose, typically

grades that are modified to improve

70% to 80%.

flow and compaction. Besides the importance

For the production of granulated anhydrous

of good flow and compactability, the ability

lactose, a sieved fine particle size fraction of

of excipients to achieve good drug content

anhydrous lactose is agglomerated on a fluid

uniformity in final tablets is key.

bed agglomerator with an aqueous lactose

It has been speculated that the ability

solution as a binder. This granulation step

Did you know? *If a formulation requires even more compactability than that offered by granulated anhydrous, it is recommended to add some MCC to further increase compaction. This ensures you don’t compromise on other factors such as the flow and solubility of the formulation.

of certain excipients to achieve good drug

modifies the morphology of the excipient to a

content uniformity may be a result of excipient

granular porous structure (see Figure 1b), which

morphology whereby the active ingredient can

has a positive effect on flow and compactability,

be distributed into crevices in the excipient

and maintains disintegration time. Robustness

structure. 2 Anhydrous lactose is modified

of the process is proven by evaluating and

lactose, while at the same time reducing the

by granulation to create a structure with

monitoring functional related characteristics.

disintegration time by almost 50% (see Figure

crevices that enhance mixing potential to

This to ensure consistency and to de-risk the

3b). The difference in compactability and

achieve good drug content uniformity, while

use of SuperTab 24AN (see Figure 2).

disintegration is fully assigned to the additional

at the same time increasing the flow and

agglomeration process, which results in a

compaction properties (see Figure 1b). SuperTab

COMPACTION

porous granular structure, while retaining the

24AN as multifunctional excipient enables

Besides the low moisture content and low

primary anhydrous particle size. The porous

pharmaceutical manufacturers to extend the

hygroscopicity, anhydrous lactose is also

granular structure of granulated anhydrous

potential use of DC.

preferred as a DC excipient due to its good

compared to regular anhydrous lactose can be

compactability. This is as a result of the high

observed in SEM pictures in Figure 1b.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS

fragmentation of the roller-dried microcrystals,

The manufacturing process for granulated

combined with the plastic deformation of the

FLOWABILITY

anhydrous lactose is both unique and patented,

primary crystals which enlarge the binding

The irregular shape of the particles of regular

providing enhanced functionality. As the name

surface area. 3

anhydrous lactose is less supportive for

already indicates, granulated anhydrous lactose is produced using a combination of processes.

Agglomeration of anhydrous lactose has

flowability than other types of DC lactose.

shown to increase the compaction properties

However, granulation of small anhydrous lactose

further*. Figure 3a shows that granulated

particles has been shown to alter the particle

roller drying and subsequent comminution and

anhydrous lactose results in 40% higher

size distribution and particle shape towards good

sieving. Evaporation is done at temperatures

compactability than regular anhydrous

flowing granular particles. Granulated anhydrous

Anhydrous lactose (Figure 1a) is produced by

The innovative use of granulated anhydrous lactose can extend the use of DC techniques in tablet production

lactose shows a high flow function coefficient (FFC) upon measuring in an annular shear cell, as is indicated in Figure 4. The increased flow is also reflected in blends of the excipient with an increasing amount of drug loading. With up to 20% drug loading, flow function coefficients remain above 20 for granulated anhydrous lactose, while the flow function coefficient drops below 10 for regular anhydrous lactose. Figure 5 provides an example of a formulation with granulated anhydrous lactose, SuperTab 24AN. It shows the compactability with increasing paracetamol content up to 40%. It is interesting to see that for 40% drug loading, compactability and flowability still did not limit the tableting process

Figure 1a: SEM picture SuperTab 21AN

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

Figure 1b: SEM picture SuperTab 24AN

with a gravimetric feed rotary tablet press.

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Figure 2: Consistency data of functional related characteristics of SuperTab 24AN

CONCLUSION The innovative use of granulated anhydrous lactose (SuperTab 24AN) can extend the use of DC techniques in tablet production, due to combining the benefits of granulated and anhydrous lactose in one excipient. It provides excellent flow, superior compaction, quick disintegration, low water content and low hygroscopicity. Additionally, good drug content uniformity can be obtained with granulated anhydrous, because of excipient morphology whereby

Figure 3a: Compaction profile

Figure 3b: Disintegration profile

the API can be distributed into crevices in the excipient structure. By combining all these properties in one excipient, SuperTab 24AN will be the ideal choice

CONTENT UNIFORMITY

to support formulators in expanding the use

Besides flowability and compactability,

of DC. SuperTab 24AN is an anhydrous lactose

content uniformity is one of the key

grade produced by DFE Pharma and available in

challenges in DC. During this process, APIs

Southern Africa from IMCD South Africa. •

are not locked into the granule as is the case with granulation. Therefore, the blending of

References:

APIs generally gives rise to concerns about inhomogeneity and segregation. Figure 6 compares granulated anhydrous lactose with regular anhydrous lactose

Figure 4: FFC granulated anhydrous versus regular anhydrous

on content uniformity as a function of blending time. Lactose was blended with 2% propranolol HCL and 97.5% lactose in a

result for regular anhydrous is obtained after

Turbula mixer at 62rpm for two, five and

only eight minutes. It is anticipated that the

eight minutes, followed by two minutes

excellent flow properties combined with

blending with 0.5% MgSt. Content uniformity

the granular structure makes granulated

for granulated anhydrous lactose is excellent

anhydrous lactose ideal for formulation where

(RSD≤4%) after two minutes, while a similar

mixing properties are critical.

Figure 5: Performance granulated anhydrous with high drug loading

1. Jivraj, M., Martini, L. G., & Thomson, C. M. (2000). An overview of the different excipients useful for the direct compression of tablets. Pharmaceutical science & technology today, 3(2), 58-63. 2. Kukkar, V., Anand, V., Kataria, M., Gera, M., & Choudhury, P. K. (2008). Mixing and formulation of low dose drugs: underlying problems and solutions. Thai J Pharm Sci, 32(3-4), 43-58. 3. Vromans, H. (1987). Ph.D. Thesis, Studies on the consolidation and compaction of lactose, University of Groningen. 4. Kussendrager, K. D., & Walsma, B. (2012). U.S. Patent No. 8,173,173. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

IMCD Group – www.imcdgroup.com

Figure 6: Content uniformity of 2% propranolol HCL blended with anhydrous lactose (SuperTab 21AN) and granulated anhydrous lactose (SuperTab 24AN), expressed as relative standard deviation over 20 samples

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 2 2021

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

Last mile pharmaceutical shipment monitoring made easy

Logmore data loggers, which are built around QR code tags

In the next few years, it is predicted the global demand for vaccines will be around 15bn doses. In terms of Africa’s COVID-19 vaccination programme, according to the WHO there are growing concerns that supply shortages in many African countries are holding back the continuing rollout. We speak to the CEO of Logmore, Niko Polvinen about how the company’s innovative data loggers are ideal for ensuring last mile delivery of COVID-19 vaccines. By Abby Vorster

HOW CAN LOGMORE HELP HEALTHCARE AGENCIES AND GOVERNMENTS OVERCOME THE CHALLENGES OF DISTRIBUTING COVID-19 VACCINES TO PEOPLE IN AFRICA? Polvinen: Accessibility has played a big role in our product development. We reach a good coverage of shipments by ensuring that the devices used for temperature monitoring are affordable, don’t require new infrastructure, and are overall easy and fast to deploy into daily operations. The only things a logistics provider would need to use the service are the loggers, which are known as Logmore Guardians, and a smartphone with an internet connection.

WHAT SUCCESSES HAS LOGMORE HAD IN TERMS OF PLAYING A VITAL ROLE IN GLOBAL VACCINE DELIVERY? Polvinen: So far Logmore has been used to secure

Any smart device can be used to scan the QR code to upload collected data to the Logmore web-based cloud service

how uniquely suited our service is to shipments

Niko Polvinen, Logmore CEO

destined for rural areas as well as inter-city use.

over 10mn doses of COVID-19 vaccines. We are working with multiple global carriers of the loggers to most continents already. While Asia

HOW DOES LOGMORE ENSURE LOGISTICS QUALITY IN THE PHARMACEUTICAL SUPPLY CHAIN?

was one of the first regions we went to with our

Polvinen: As you know, pharmaceuticals

on all continents to

partners, our more recent arrival in Africa has

tend to be very temperature sensitive.

help them succeed.

been interesting. It has been eye-opening to see

With Logmore, companies can make sure

vaccine, which have brought our Logmore data

Did you know? DHL has chosen to secure more than 7mn doses of COVID-19 vaccines with Logmore. The agreement between DHL and Logmore commenced in March 2021 and involves the monitoring of vaccine temperatures in Europe. As a shipment data platform, Logmore integrates seamlessly with the DHL SmartSensor service. The service package cares for shipment conditions every step of the way and provides fleet management teams access to analytics. At the same time, end users and employees are able to verify the correct handling of the shipment at package-level, throughout its journey.

QUARTER 2 2021 // P&C AFRICA

We want to be close to our customers

Currently, we’re

their products have been transported safely

working on establishing regional offices in

regardless of which service provider handles the

Frankfurt, Germany and the USA. A lot of the

transportation process.

world’s pharmaceuticals are distributed from

Logmore is a combination of accurate temperature monitoring data loggers and a highly secure cloud service. Data from the data

those two locations, so it makes sense to be where the shipments start. Later this year, we’re looking into branching

loggers is uploaded to the cloud by scanning a

out in Asia and Africa. For the latter, Cape Town

QR code. Should there be any occurrences that

and Johannesburg are among our top options

require further investigation, the recipient and the

for local operations due to the location of

shipper are both alerted immediately when the

major customers.

shipment reaches the destination.

As a whole, the African continent is of great interest to Logmore. I believe the company could

CONSIDERING LOGMORE’S RAPID GROWTH, WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR THE COMPANY?

make a very real and tangible difference by working with the local pharmaceutical supply chains. •

Polvinen: The company is certainly growing fast. We’ve almost tripled our headcount in the past year and will almost triple it again in the next 12 months.

Logmore – www.logmore.com

Unlocking potential, innovation and excellence on the African continent CJP Chemicals, established in 1986, is a leading stockist and distributor of both speciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety of industries. With sales offices and warehouses in all four major business districts of South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape Town & Port Elizabeth, CJP Chemicals has the capacity to supply a diverse range of products. Together with our strong and long standing partnerships with both international and local producers, CJP Chemicals has the reach to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical and logistical solutions to all our customers. Our Personal Care division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and efficacy to our customers’ formulations.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anti Ageing Agents Anti Bacteria Anti caking Anti Fungal Bulking Agent Butters Carbomers Carrier Oils Conditioning Agents Emolients Emulsifier Essential oils Excipents Exfoliating Agents Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols Fillers

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Fragrances Gelling Agents Glycols Humectants Matting Agents Moisturising Agents Peeling Granules Petrolatum Polymers Polysorbates Preservatives Sebum Regulator Silicones Skin Whiteners Soaps Solubilzer UV Filters Surfactants Thio-Compounds Vegetable Oils Waxes White Mineral Oils

Tel: 011-494-6700 Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q2 2021

Articles inside

Last mile pharmaceutical shipment monitoring made easy

The potential of robotics for the ‘lights-out factory’

Automated inspection vital to accelerate vaccine delivery

Makeup that defines eyes while caring for skin

Deliver highly effective sebum and shine reduction

New insights into the future of beauty