Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa by New Media B2B

AFRICA

Quarter 2 2020 | Volume 5 | 02

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za

African consumers are ready for waterless products,

as long as they are effective, easy to use and have great sensorial attributes

THE MANE OBJECTIVE Ethnic hair and beauty solutions

LABELLING Inspection, verification & short runs

QUALITY ASSURANCE Keep compliance in check during COVID-19

r o P d u w ct e N Competition

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry.

The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.

QUARTER 2 2020 | Volume 5 | Number 2

AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS 6 NEWS

24 LABELLING

Robopac donates stretch wrapping machines to Italian Red Cross

Minimise case and pallet labelling downtime

Bayer calls for malaria prevention continuity

Hero cologne honours coronavirus essential workers

Label Smart innovates with its short-run digital press

New BPA-free pharma thermochromic inks

9 ETHNIC CARE

27 QUALITY ASSURANCE

The new beauty boom is waterless

Optima succeeds at highly complex virtual FAT

Evonik focuses on curl confidence

How to design products for Generation Z

Restore scalp vitality with Seascalp biomarine ingredient

Innovate with solid shampoos and conditioners

Florratt Cosmetics makes a difference

20 INDUSTRY TALK How to manufacture compliant hand sanitiser

22 PHARMA FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS An overview of lactose-based excipients from Meggle

New automated solution to boost quality How to keep auditing on track during COVID-19

20 How to mix and manufacture

Compliant hand sanitiser

Simple formulating

with Aculyn Siltouch rheology modifier

A highlyconcentrated

handful of goodness

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

Consider going waterless

Layout & Design: Naresh Budraj Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Elena Cañadas, Eulalia Peri, Harald van der Hoeven, Jacques Strydom, Juliana Gomiero, Núria Almiñana, Raquel Delgado, Dr Russel Walters ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

resh, clean water is a critical resource

Our packaging theme in this edition is

to sustain life on Earth. It’s also a vital

labelling. In this feature, we explore how to

resource for the cosmetics industry

minimise case and pallet labelling downtime

and is used in the formulation and

with Markem-Imaje’s 2200 series print and

manufacturing of almost all cosmetics and

apply labelling system. We also showcase

personal care products.

CTI’s new printable thermochromic

A quick look at the global water crisis

technology, which is free of bisphenol A, F

shows Africa is one of the most water-scarce

and S and meets the stringent regulatory

continents with 40% of the global contingent

standards for pharma packaging. You can

of people living without clean water reported

read more on page 24 about these and

to be in sub-Saharan Africa. Water scarcity

other developments in labelling.

and an increasing need for convenience

On page 27, we bring matters of

make Africa an ideal market for waterless

quality assurance front and centre. In this

formulations, such as solid conditioner

feature you can find out more about the

bars. In this edition of P&C Africa we look at

most complex virtual factory machine

some of the reasons why brands should be

acceptance test in Optima’s history and

innovating in this area. We also share novel

how the company carried out this mammoth

waterless formulation ideas from ingredient

task without any hitches. Also included

suppliers to help kick-start your brand’s

is an article on Rockwell Automation

journey to launch solid format beauty

and Rychiger’s success in reinventing a

products. Turn to page 9 to read more about

demanding assembly

this in the ethnic care feature.

process for a customer in

With COVID-19 cases continuing to

diagnostics and syndromic

INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

spread throughout Africa, Dr Russel Walters,

infectious testing, and

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd.

freelance scientist at Kolabtree, shares his

PharmaLex reveals

MANAGEMENT TEAM

expertise on page 20 on how to formulate

how manufacturers

and manufacture compliant alcohol-

can keep on top

based hand sanitiser. Designed to be an

of auditing during

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

alternative to washing hands with water

COVID-19 with its

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

and surfactants, hand sanitisers reduce

range of virtual

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

the viral and bacterial load on skin. There

solutions.

are two water/alcohol formulation options explained in this feature, both of which

Take care and

are recommended by the WHO. They are

enjoy the read!

also straightforward and simple enough to produce, provided you follow the FDA and

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 www.newmedia.co.za

WHO guidelines.

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX AECI Specialty Chemicals..............................17........................ jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com BASF Holdings South Africa.............................OBC.................... www.info-mypharma.basf.com Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH.......................5.......................... www.evonik.com/personal-care IMCD SA ............................................................OFC.................... www.imcdgroup.com/en O6 Agencies SA................................................11........................ www.o6southafrica.com Omron Electronics............................................25....................... www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................15........................ www.savannah.co.za

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Novus Print.

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

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Pollution, the aging process, seasonal factors, UV irradiation and predisposition: There are many threats to disrupt our natural protective skin and hair barrier. Evonikâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ceramide and sphingolipid technologies preserve and maintain this barrier. Our actives keep skin hydrated and protect hair from damage. The result is a more vital, smooth and healthy look. With more than 25 years of experience in ceramides, we offer a comprehensive portfolio to boost formulations with ceramides. www.evonik.com/personal-care

Evonik Personal Care @evonikpc @evonikpc

NEWS

EVONIK AND BEIERSDORF ENGAGE IN CO2-FOCUSED R&D A RESEARCH PARTNERSHIP between Beiersdorf and Evonik aims to develop sustainable raw

ROBOPAC DONATES STRETCH WRAPPING MACHINES TO ITALIAN RED CROSS THE ITALIAN RED CROSS, which has

materials for care products, using CO2 as the starting material. Beiersdorf is on the lookout for new sources

headquarters in Rome and Avezzano, in the province

of raw materials that will also reduce the company’s

of L'Aquila, has received two robot stretch wrapping machines from Robopac. These robots are being used

carbon footprint. One option is artificial photosynthesis technology. With the aid of electricity from solar energy and

Artificial photosynthesis uses renewable energy, CO2 and water, and makes a contribution to closing the carbon cycle

water and CO2, drawing on natural photosynthesis

application is in its infancy in the cosmetics industry.

as a model. The joint research project of Evonik and

We are therefore especially proud to be entering into

Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF) to the tune

handling and transport of all medical equipment and other aids distributed to communities during the

bacteria, valuable raw materials are produced with

Beiersdorf is being funded by Germany’s Federal

by volunteers to pack and ensure the safe and efficient

this research partnership,” Shana’a continues. Thomas Haas, responsible for artificial

COVID-19 pandemic. “With this donation, we intend to give real help to those who work in emergency conditions 24/7 to support the Italian citizens exhausted by the pandemic.

photosynthesis at Evonik, adds: “By using

We are flattered to be able to give a sign of closeness

carbon dioxide as the starting material for the

and solidarity to such a well-deserving institution as

research and development, Beiersdorf, says: “The

production of valuable raw materials, we can close

the Italian Red Cross,” comments Alfredo Aureli

research cooperation fits perfectly with our sustainability

the carbon cycle – exactly as demonstrated by nature

of Robopac.

agenda, an ambitious programme that we are

with photosynthesis.”

of around €1 million. Dr May Shana’a, corporate senior vice president,

implementing systematically and across all functions.

Evonik is developing the technology platform

The donation includes two robot S6 PVS stretch wrapping machines, which represent the top of the

We are pursuing a vision of becoming climate positive,

needed for artificial photosynthesis together with

Robopac machinery production range. The choice

and we want to play a part in closing the carbon cycle.”

Siemens in the Rheticus project funded by the BMBF.

of S6 robots was determined by their characteristics:

The company believes the research project launched

suitable for products of any shape, size and weight;

for the raw materials used in its care products, the

with Beiersdorf, which is independent of the cooperation

ergonomic and easy to move; user friendly thanks to

company’s carbon footprint will be reduced as well as

with Siemens, is an opportunity for the speciality

the colour touch panel; and flexible and reliable.

the land used for renewable resources.

chemicals producer to expand the future product

If Beiersdorf succeeds in using CO2 as a source

“Together with Evonik, we are determining which raw materials can be produced with the aid of artificial

portfolio for artificial photosynthesis. Haas comments: “With Beiersdorf, we have a partner

These robots are also totally safe thanks to the robust safety bumper. The timely delivery and installation of the

photosynthesis and could potentially be suitable for our

joining us in extending the value chain to include

two stretch wrappers was made possible by the

care products. While this has already been observed

sustainable CO2-based products – in the interest of

Teknoimballo 2000 from Aprilia, Robopac’s dealer

in the early stages of a number of other industries, this

the consumer.” •

in the area.•

BAYER CALLS FOR LIFE-SAVING MALARIA PREVENTION CONTINUITY AS THE RESILIENCE of the most robust

eradicate malaria must remain a priority as

health systems around the world continues

it is in times of health and economic crises

to be tested in the wake of the coronavirus

that diseases have the potential to resurge.

pandemic, Bayer used World Malaria Day to

We simply cannot let our guard down if we

encourage countries especially vulnerable

are to protect the millions at high risk from

to malaria, to ensure the continuity of

malaria, many of whom are farmers, and

malaria prevention and control measures.

stop the cycle of hunger and poverty. For

Nearly half the world’s population remains at risk from malaria infection and in 2018, it led to a staggering 405 000

One of the robot S6 PVS stretch wrapping machines Robopac donated to the Italian Red Cross

“Today, more than ever before, we truly

Bayer malaria has been – and will continue

appreciate the immensity and global impact

to be – high on the agenda.”

of infectious diseases. They don’t respect

By ensuring access to core malaria

borders and require governments, scientists

deaths worldwide, 94% of which occurred

prevention measures, the strain on

and academics, innovators, NGO’s and

in Africa. Considering these numbers, it

health systems can be reduced, allowing

corporations to work together,” emphasised

is critical that programmes to prevent the

more availability for treatment of

Dr Applegate.

disease continue in regions such as sub-

COVID-19 cases.

Saharan Africa, where populations are most

Since 2000, the coordinated battle against

Bayer is continuing to support our partners to implement vector control by

vulnerable and health infrastructures are

malaria has culminated in a 60% reduction

ensuring our production sites, supply chains

oftentimes fragile.

of malaria-related deaths saving close to

and logistics continue to bring life-saving

seven million lives. This year, COVID-19 is

malaria tools to those most in need. Bayer

the unit working in vector-borne disease

threatening to disrupt malaria prevention

also continues to invest in research and

prevention at Bayer, says: “As the world’s

and treatment programmes and we need to

development to identify new transformative

attention focuses on COVID-19, our efforts to

ensure that progress is not lost.

tools to fight against the disease. •

Dr Jacqueline Applegate, president of

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

NEWS

EXPERIENCE PRINT INSPECTION ONLINE DUE TO THE COVID-19 pandemic, EyeC now

and printed products throughout the entire

offers a virtual demo experience. Customers can

production process. The systems detect printing

view the entire product range for artwork and

errors before they lead to losses. They increase

prepress inspection as well as for offline and inline

the productivity of existing processes and make a

control. The print inspection experts will present

significant contribution to avoid complaints and

various system functionalities and provide insights

unnecessary costs.

into different application areas for reliable print

The user-friendly inspection systems check the

In the new demo centre, EyeC presents all inspection solutions virtually

With its interactive product demonstrations, EyeC

inspections. Based on customer samples, individual

quality of texts and graphics and automatically

enables a targeted insight into the comprehensive

solutions will be developed.

detect colour deviations when compared to a

product portfolio despite limited on-site

reference file. EyeC’s comprehensive inspection

appointments. Interested parties and customers

the right solution for every application, whether

solutions are also used for grading 1D and 2D

can make personal appointments for a virtual tour

its folding boxes, labels, package inserts, flexible

codes, such as barcodes and pharma codes, and

or individual web demonstrations in the new EyeC

packaging or tubes. EyeC’s inspection systems

automatically check the content, position and

Demo Centre. Send an e-mail to Sales@EyeC.de

ensure the quality and conformity of print files

height of Braille.

for more information. •

With its comprehensive portfolio, EyeC offers

Hero cologne honours coronavirus essential workers SYMRISE FINE FRAGRANCE perfumers from around the globe have

“We believe in the power of scent to touch our senses, our soul and the

participated in a project to recognise and thank all the first responders helping to

world,” says Ricardo Omori, SVP global fine fragrance. “That’s why we’ve

fight COVID-19. Each of the 19 perfumers added one ingredient to the fragrance to

developed a fragrance for all the heroes who, with their tireless and selfless

create the unisex eau de cologne called ‘Hero’.

efforts, are helping to fight the coronavirus crisis. Hero is our small token of

Produced using sustainable ingredients, Symrise will donate the Hero cologne

thanks for the work they do.”

to frontline COVID-19 heroes, to contribute to the well-being of those who wear it.

As a fragrance manufacturer with over 200 years of tradition, Symrise

Starting in May, Symrise will initially distribute the fragrance in the US, France, China,

knows about the positive influence of scent to a person’s well-being.

Singapore, Brazil and Dubai.

Especially during challenging times, pleasant fragrances can add a feeling

Hero eau de cologne was created for both men and women. It interweaves

of positive well-being to a tense everyday life. In fact, humans have been

traditional eau de cologne ingredients with contemporary notes like Ambrostar,

using cologne as a fragrance, a mood lifter and a hygiene product for

a Symrise captive, musk and vanilla. The result is an invigorating and supportive

many centuries.

fragrance that combines energy and comfort. The top note exudes a composition of

“It has been shown that the addition of fragrance to our daily essentials

mandarin from Madagascar, bergamot with a boost of peppermint and ginger. The

increases our quality of life,” Omori adds. “In the current situation, we want

heart contains warm notes of ambrette seeds, orris and rose. The base note gives

to do our part with Hero to lift the mood of our heroes and add positivity

the fragrance fullness and modernity with guaiac wood, sandalwood, vetiver from

to their lives. In doing so, we show our appreciation for the thousands of everyday

Madagascar, cypress and renewable vanillin.

heroes who are working hard for us with their dedicated efforts.” •

WHO SUPPORTS SCIENTIFICALLY PROVEN TRADITIONAL MEDICINE IN THE SEARCH FOR potential treatments for

at the 50 th session of the WHO Regional Committee

COVID-19, the World Health Organization (WHO)

for Africa. Countries also agreed to undertake

for COVID-19, caution must be taken against

welcomes global innovations, including repurposing

relevant research and require national medicines

misinformation, especially on social media, about

drugs, traditional medicines and developing new

regulatory agencies to approve medicines in line

the effectiveness of certain remedies. Many plants

therapies. Africa has a long history of traditional

with international standards, which include the

and substances are being proposed without the

medicine and practitioners that play an important

product following strict research protocol and

minimum requirements and evidence of quality,

role in providing care to populations, and WHO

undergoing tests and clinical trials. These studies

safety and efficacy. The use of products to treat

recognises that traditional, complementary and

normally involve hundreds of people under the

COVID-19, which have not been robustly investigated

alternative medicine has many benefits.

monitoring of the national regulatory authorities

can put people in danger, giving a false sense of

and may take quite a few months in an expedited

security and distracting them from hand washing

are being considered as possible treatments for

process. WHO is working with research institutions

and physical distancing which are cardinal in

COVID-19 and should be tested for efficacy and

to select traditional medicine products that can

COVID-19 prevention, and may also increase self-

adverse side effects. Africans deserve to use

be investigated for clinical efficacy and safety for

medication and the risk to patient safety.

medicines tested to the same standards as people

COVID-19 treatment. In addition, the it will continue

in the rest of the world. African governments through

to support countries as they explore the role of

with countries and researchers to develop new

their ministers of health adopted a resolution

traditional health practitioners in prevention, control

therapies and encourages such collaboration for

urging member states to produce evidence on the

and early detection of the virus as well as case

the development of effective and safe therapies for

safety, efficacy and quality of traditional medicine

referral to health facilities.

Africa and the world. •

Medicinal plants such as Artemisia annua

As efforts are under way to find treatment

WHO welcomes every opportunity to collaborate

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

DAIRY

DIARY

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DIARY

ETHNIC CARE

THE NEW BEAUTY BOOM IS

‘WATERLESS’

By 2025, 1.8 billion people will be living in countries with absolute water scarcity, while two-thirds of the world’s population might be living under waterstressed conditions. As water is crucial to maintain life on Earth, it’s important we use every effort to conserve it.

he beauty industry certainly

production costs and aiding the creation

formulation provides more room for

believes it’s important to

of effective products.

beneficial ingredients and by reducing

conserve water. Recently, major multinational beauty brands

Facial cleansing bars, dry shampoos,

the cost of transport, more budget can

no-rinse body washes and solid

be allocated to novel, sustainable,

including L’Oréal, Unilever and P&G have

moisturisers are all water-saving beauty

organic and ethical ingredients, which

made it their mission to significantly

solutions, which are becoming more

provide more value and increase a

decrease water consumption in an effort

and more popular. However, the next

product’s efficacy.

to preserve this vital natural resource.

generation of beauty products are set to

While these major beauty corporations

perform without any water at all.

are trying to reduce their carbon footprint

The appeal for waterless cosmetics and

Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath Starch (INCI: Tapioca Starch), is a spray dried and dextrinised Tapioca Starch. Available

by decreasing water consumption, other

personal care products is already being

throughout Africa from IMCD South Africa,

smaller brands are boycotting water

seen among consumers of a younger

Natrasorb Bath Starch can be used as

use altogether by creating completely

age range. In the UK, around 25% of

a carrier and manufacturing aid for

waterless formulas.

youngsters are interested in dry soap and

bath salt applications and is ideal for

dry bath and shower products, and even

absorbing the oils and fragrances used

more so in France (30%).

in a bath salt formula. When the oil-

Waterless, water-free or anhydrous beauty refers to products that are free from water, using soothing botanical

Consumers are ready for waterless

loaded starch is mixed with salt granules,

ingredients and nourishing oils instead,

products, as long as they are

it naturally adheres well to the salt,

to create more potent solutions while

effective, easy to use and have

eliminating the necessity for a fixative.

diminishing the need for preservatives

great sensorial attributes.

Within the product’s packaging, there is

and unnecessary fillers.

Many companies are dedicating their sustainability initiatives to water

virtually no separation of the starch from the salt.

THE SHIFT TO WATERLESS COSMETICS

conservation, exploring and launching waterless formulations. This trend is

Natrasorb Bath Starch is important

Water is a precious commodity that

rooted in the K-beauty market and is now

both for manufacturing uniformity

is often overlooked. With consumers

being embraced by beauty brands and

and prolonged packaging stability. In

becoming more aware of water

consumers worldwide.

addition, when the salts are added to

scarcity, there is a need for new product

The adhesion characteristic of

bath water, the starch dissolves readily

formulations that require little or no

MORE CONCENTRATED PRODUCTS

and completely, releasing the oils and

water in order to function. The additional

The move towards cosmetics with less or

fragrance without leaving any

benefits of waterless formulations

no water is driven by the rationale that

residual particulates.

include a reduction in plastic waste and

water is inactive. Removing water from a

Table 1: Foaming Cleansing Oil Trade name INCI Name Function % Natrasorb Bath Tapioca Starch Sensory modifier 20 High Oleic Sunflower Oil Sunflower Oil Emollient 69.8 Elfan AT 84 Sodium Cocyl Surfactant 10 Isethionate Fragrance Aroma Aroma 0.2 This water-free system offers mild cleansing with a nourishing after-feel. It works like a face wash yet is effective in cleansing hard-to-remove makeup

Natrasorb Bath Starch is versatile and applicable to other formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are required simultaneously. It can be blended with dry surfactant to formulate a foaming cleansing powder with high oil content. See Table 1 for the formulation guide.• IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

ETHNIC CARE

Confident about curls There is a global movement to embrace naturally curly hair with the universal concept of beauty fast becoming a thing of the past. Evonik offers innovative solutions to meet the demands of consumers based on their specific hair type while respecting their individuality.

urls are the new normal in beauty. Globally, the demand has increased significantly for hair care solutions

that address the needs of curly hair. According to Google, ‘curls’ has become the term most frequently searched when it comes to hair care, finding the best products for curl styling and avoiding hair straightening. Mintel conducted research in Brazil to understand the different hair types of Brazilians and found that nearly 70% of women have naturally wavy, curly or kinky hair. As for the US, which is

Table 1: Curl types and concerns Curl type

Characteristics Problems

Desired claims

Wavy 2 ABC Oily scalp and Frizz and split dry ends ends can occur

• Purifying shampoos • Damage-repair conditioners • Anti-frizz leave-ins • Lightweight sensory

Curly 3 ABC Oily scalp and Very fragile and • Conditioning shampoos water-free system offers mild cleansing with a nourishing after-feel. It works like a face This dry ends thin, hair breaks • Fortifying and moisturising wash yet is effective in cleansing hard-to-remove makeup easily due to the • Curl definition elliptical format • Volume control and enhancing Kinky 4 ABC Sensitive scalp Breaks easily and dry ends and cannot be combed dry

• Cleansing conditioners • Scalp soothing • Curl definition • On-the-go styling

considered the number one market for hair care worldwide, nearly eight out of 10

scalp care systems for a more balanced

from gentle cleansing shampoos

African American consumers wear their

scalp and healthy hair.

to deep conditioning and repairing

hair natural and prefer products made

solutions to keep their scalp and hair

A SOLUTION IN THREE STEPS

looking healthy. Based on the most

Evonik has developed a three-step

relevant attributes demanded by

in Table 1, consumers with curly hair

approach to meet the specific needs of

curly consumers, Evonik offers three

demand tailor-made solutions based on

curly hair.

formulations for everyday use. The no-

their curl type. Taking these variations into

1. Transition phase: This is when

rinse everyday refresher formulation for

exclusively for their hair type. Among the different curvatures noted

account, it’s quite clear that consumers

individuals decide to stop chemical

on-the-go wipes consists of Tegodeo

are looking for products that fit best with

straightening to return to their natural

CW 90 E, Rheance One and Verstatil

their personal needs.

hair texture. For this phase, Evonik

MBO, enabling easy and high-

offers three formulations, including a

performing cleansing. Damage repair

SCALP CARE GAINS MOMENTUM

purifying cleansing shampoo featuring

antidote is a premium conditioner to

Because their scalp tends to be more

Varisoft EQ 100 and Abil ME 45 MB;

restore damaged and fragile hair; it’s

sensitive, consumers with curly hair

a scalp shield hair tonic enriched

enriched with a combination of two

require scalp care solutions as a first step

with Hairflux, Tego Cosmo C 100 and

readily biodegradable conditioning

in their hair care ritual. This has seen an

Tego Cosmo P 813 MB to soothe a

agents – Varisoft EQ 100 and Varisoft

increase in ingredient innovations that

sensitive scalp and provide added

EQ 65 MB – as well as Tego Cosmo C

cross over from face to scalp care.

barrier protection; and a high-oil mild

100, an amino acid derivative that

cleansing scrub; which acts as an

improves the mechanical properties of

ABC hair types and textures, as these

exfoliating shampoo with surprising

stressed hair. Gently cleanse sulphate-

consumers generally complain that, after

foam and delicate cleansing. This

free shampoo is a very mild and clear

washing their hair, it takes more than a

scrub contains Tego Sulfosuccinate DO

formulation especially suitable for curly

day for their scalp to return to completely

75 and Rewopol SB FA 30 B.

hair. It contains a combination

Scalp care is highly relevant to 4

dry, creating an ideal environment for

2. Everyday routine: Curly consumers

of Rheance One and Rewoteric

bacterial growth. Based on this, brands

have unique demands and can use

AM C for mild cleansing and Verstatil

must offer antimicrobial and purifying

up to six different products daily,

SL non-GMO, which is an easy-

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

ETHNIC CARE

Table 2: Anti-frizz oil in balm Phase Ingredients INCI A Isolan 17 MB Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate; Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Dermofeel Sensolv Isoamyl Laurate MB Tegosoft SH Stearyl Heptanoate Candelilla Wax Candelilla Cera Ozokerite Dermosoft GMC MB Glyceryl Caprate B Water Glycerine Zinc Sulphate Heptahydrate Citric Acid (30% solution in water) Verstatil SL non-GMO Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Potassium Sorbate

% w/w 3.00

based emollients, Tegosoft OER MB and Tegosoft MM MB, are blended with Varisoft EQ 100 in the stick formulation for soft and smooth, disciplined curls. Conditioning miracle hair ampoule is

4.00 8.00 3.00 1.00 0.50 Ad 100 7.00 1.00 QS

a leave-in conditioner that transforms from very fluid to a rich white emulsion when water is added. It contains the combination of Varisoft EQ 100 and Dermofeel Sensolv MB for improved sensorial benefits and bouncing curls. The anti-frizz oil in balm (see Table 2) contains a combination of two naturalbased emulsifiers, Isolan 17 MB and Dermofeel Sensolv MB, and the fully naturally-based wax Tegosoft SH. Ultimately, Evonik’s curly you

1.50

to-handle preservative blend for

exploring. Evonik offers four innovative

surfactant systems.

formulations for the styling phase. The

3. Maintaining bouncy curls: Because of

non-messy hair styling. Two natural-

hair definition primer is formulated

concept brings innovative and tailor made solutions to the brand owner while highlighting the importance of customisation for today’s beauty consumers. This is what Evonik calls ‘the soul and science of beauty’.•

their lifestyles, curly consumers desire

with Varisoft EQ 100, Tegosoft AC

For more information, send an email to

convenient and easy-to-use solutions

MB and Tego SP 13-1 for long-lasting

rene.spada@evonik.com.

to keep their curls defined and

defined and moisturised curls. Curls

protected against external aggressors.

in place hair stick offers convenience

Styling is an important category worth

combined with high performance for

Evonik – www.personal-care.evonik.com

www.o6southafrica.com

We've got a sense for Fragrance and Taste

And a o6th sense for what your customers want for both. We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like. 011 234 8399 EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com

SMALL PACK DIVISION

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

ETHNIC CARE

Design with a purpose for GENERATION Z Skin care products intended for use by Generation Z need to meet all the requirements of these consumers. Harald van der Hoeven of CLR Berlin highlights the uniqueness of this generation and what it means for beauty brands. They have high demands,

While the initial sale of a product

which extends to their skin

might be easy, it can be extremely difficult

care products. These need

to secure repeat purchases, which will

to fit in with their lifestyles and

only be made when a product works for

their beliefs. Their skepticism

a centennial – and repeat purchases are

towards ‘big industry’ is

needed for a product or brand to

likely to be a crucial factor

be successful.

in the boom of indie beauty

n interesting and important demographic, Generation Z

brands. These small and

AN INCLUSIVE APPROACH

independent brands have

Skin care products should tick all the boxes

a strong message and are

of importance to Generation Z and not only

able to communicate with

efficacy. These are safety, naturalness, clean

Gen Zers in a way

beauty, independence of big industry and

they appreciate.

marketing in a language they appreciate.

Generation Z is also interested in the

If you’re looking for ingredients that cater to

behaves rather differently from

safety and naturalness of skin care products.

this generation, CLR Berlin has developed

older generations. These teens

These individuals are extremely vocal about

CutiBiome CLR (INCI: Octyldodecanol,

and tweens are described as activists

cosmetics ingredients which they deem

Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf

with strong opinions and high demands.

unsafe. You can see this on the internet,

Oil, Piper Nigrum Fruit Extract, Magnolia

They are extremely engaged with the

which is inundated with the opinions of

Officinalis Bark Extract), which is based on a

environment and they experience high

young consumers.

synergistic mix of extracts of black pepper,

rates of anxiety and depression, seemingly

manuka and magnolia. CutiBiome CLR was

higher than other generations. A potentially

ATTAIN REPEAT PURCHASES

developed to cater to all the needs of the

important reason for this is that the cultural

Efficacy is another important concern of the

Generation Z consumer and is available in

stigma, which may have kept earlier

Generation Z consumer, who uses a skin

Africa from IMCD South Africa.

generations from openly discussing and

care product for a specific purpose. As Gen

seeking help for mental health challenges,

Zers are young, many of them suffer from

activity and significantly inhibits the growth

appears to be much less of an issue for

skin problems related to hormonal changes.

of virulent phylotypes of Cutibacterium

centennials. This is why these individuals

These changes start in early puberty and

acnes. It’s been proven to reduce the

are much more willing to talk openly

can last into their 20s. During this period,

inflammation associated with acne and

about their problems.

sebum production increases resulting in oiler

dandruff. In vivo studies and clinical

skin, with the development of comedones

evaluations showed sebum, comedones,

literally grown up with the internet and

and pimples. Hormonal changes can also

pustules and pimples are dramatically

smartphones. They are the ‘iGeneration’

result in oilier hair, which is another concern

reduced with the use of CutiBiome CLR in a

and true ‘digital natives’. Social media is

of younger generations. This is evidence

skin care serum. A scalp and hair care tonic

their sphere and the fear of missing out, or

that Gen Zers have specific concerns when

formulated with CutiBiome CLR showed its

FOMO, a behavioural driver. Gen Zers worry

it comes to skin and hair care for which they

ability to outperform piroctone olamine

about their appearance and feel constantly

require solutions to overcome or prevent

(an ethanolamine salt often used in anti-

judged, because their lives are broadly

their occurrence.

dandruff shampoos) in reducing scalp

Unlike older generations, Gen Zers have

shared online.

In this context, the Generation Z

CutiBiome CLR reduces the film-forming

oiliness, sensitivity and itch. •

consumer is exposed to many cosmetic

UNIQUE MARKETING MESSAGES

products and brands. They buy products

Although Gen Zers may seem rather

online and will easily switch from one

superficial, they are actually far from it. They

brand to another. Brand loyalty is already

are heavily engaged in everything they

hard to find in the cosmetics industry and

do – from activism to their concerns about

it’s even more of a challenge to achieve

the environment, politics and big industry.

from Generation Z.

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

ETHNIC CARE

No itching or flaking – just a naturally healthy scalp An oily scalp that produces excessive sebum is more prone to dandruff . Seascalp biomarine ingredient from Lipotec Active Ingredients acts on the factors leading to dandruff , including sebum production, altered barrier function and immuno inflammatory response, to calm the scalp and prevent itching and flaking. By Eulalia Peri, Juliana Gomiero, Elena Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado

andruff is a common condition

to prevent their recurrence, resulting in a

intracellular lipid droplets.

characterised by the presence

healthy looking scalp.

Treatment with one or 10mg/m of

Available in Africa from Savannah Fine

Seascalp biomarine ingredient showed 32

Chemicals, 99.5 percent of the content of

and 35.2 percent reductions in sebaceous

even affects the self-esteem of the person

Seascalp biomarine ingredient is of natural

lipids accumulation, respectively.

with this condition. As much as half of the

origin (according to ISO 16128). Its efficacy

world’s population will suffer from dandruff

has also been demonstrated in vitro and

Enhanced physical barrier function

at some point. It is not just aesthetically

in vivo.

and antioxidant defence

of flakes on the scalp, which can be unpleasant and sometimes

displeasing, but is also associated with scalp discomforts, including itching and stinging. Malassezia is a genus of fungi commonly found on the scalp. Sometimes

Figure 1: The presence of lipids i.e. red show lipids of the cellular membranes while green shows lipids within the cell. 1a: basal; 1b: 1mg/m Seascalp biomarine ingredient; 1c: 10mg/m Seascalp biomarine ingredient

Human keratinocytes were treated with 10mg/m Seascalp biomarine ingredient for 24 hours. At the end of treatment, the expression of genes associated with

it can grow out of control, especially on an

physical barrier function and antioxidant

oily scalp. When the presence of sebum is

response was evaluated. Seascalp biomarine ingredient showed

high, the lipid dependent.

to upregulate genes such as Glutathione

Malassezia feeds on these lipids and oxidises them.2 Oxidised lipids lead to a

Peroxidase 4 (GPX4), Glutamate-Cysteine

pro-inflammatory response that causes

Ligase Catalytic subunit (GCLC) and

scalp irritation and itchiness, creating a

Superoxide Dismutase 2 (SOD2), which

dysfunction of the barrier function integrity.

are involved in promoting an antioxidant

This proinflammatory response also

response. It also upregulated genes

increases the production of lipids by the

involved in promoting improved

sebaceous glands, which further favours

physical barrier function, such as Keratin

the proliferation of the fungus as there

10 (KRT10), Ceramide Synthase 3 and

is more sebum on which it feeds. It is a

4 (CERS3 and CERS4), Occludin (OCLN)

vicious cycle. Malassezia also increases

and Claudin 5 (CLDN5).

reactive oxygen species (ROS) producing oxidative stress, which may additionally compromise the scalp barrier function.

Reduced inflammatory response Human sebocytes and keratinocytes

The end result is the appearance of

IN VITRO EFFICACY

were treated with 10mg/m Seascalp

unwanted flakes commonly associated

Lower sebaceous lipid accumulation

biomarine ingredient for 24 hours. Using

with dandruff.

Human sebocytes were treated with

a microarray analysis, the expression

α-MSH (control) and with Seascalp

of genes associated with inflammatory

RESTORE SCALP VITALITY

biomarine ingredient (one and

response was assessed.

The recently developed Seascalp

10mg/m). After four days of incubation,

biomarine ingredient (INCI name:

supernatants were removed and a

ingredient showed downregulation in

Water (Aqua), Pseudoalteromonas

mixture containing the reagent AdipoRed

Interleukin 1 alpha (IL1-α), Interleukin

Ferment Extract, Sodium Salicylate) is a

was added to each well. This reagent

6 (IL-6), Interleukin 8 (IL-8) and Tumor

fermentbased extract obtained from a

is a hydrophilic solution that becomes

Necrosis Factor (TNF) genes, all of which

marine microorganism. It is intended to

fluorescent in hydrophobic environments,

are involved in the inflammation process.

reduce sebum, itchiness and dandruff and

facilitating the detection of the levels of

In sebocytes, it downregulated Tumor

In keratinocytes, Seascalp biomarine

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

ETHNIC CARE

Figure 2: Reduction of density of dandruff adherence (****p<0.0001 vs initial time and ****p<0.0001 vs placebo)

Figure 4: Sebum reduction (***p<0.001 vs initial time and p<0.01 vs placebo)

Figure 3: Flakes on a volunteerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scalp, before and after product was applied

reduce the presence of dandruff by 40.5

had dandruff and were aged between 18

percent in a statistically significant

and 70 years old. They applied a serum

manner. A visually clear reduction of

with three percent Seascalp biomarine

flakes was observed after 28 days

ingredient on their scalps once a day for

of treatment.

28 days. Dandruff and lipid peroxidation

The level of sebum on scalps was

Necrosis Factor (TNF) and Interleukin 8 (IL-8) genes.

IN VIVO EFFICACY Minimise the presence of dandruff A group of volunteers from China applied a serum containing three percent Seascalp biomarine ingredient or a placebo serum on their scalps once every two days for 28 days. The group consisted of 63 men and women with dandruff and aged between 18 and 55 years old. At the end of the treatment, reductions in dandruff adherence, sebum level and scalp itchiness were evaluated. The density of dandruff adherence on the scalp was assessed by visual grading. An expert evaluated eight different areas of the scalp, scoring them on a scale

evaluated using a sebumeter. Treatment

treatment and two weeks thereafter.

with Seascalp biomarine ingredient

The presence of dandruff was

helped reduce sebum by 26.7 percent

evaluated using imaging technology.

in a statistically significant manner,

First, general photography was taken

while the placebo treatment barely had

of the areas most affected by dandruff.

any effect.

Then a micro-camera was used to obtain

Scalp itchiness was evaluated by the

a more magnified image of one specific

volunteers on a scale of naught to five,

area of the scalps. Finally, the Corneofix

where no itchiness corresponded with

technique was used to evaluate the level

naught and very serious itchiness

of scalp desquamation.

with five. Seascalp biomarine ingredient

the scalp). Seascalp biomarine ingredient helped Figure 5: Scalp itchiness measurement after 28 days

A specialised technician graded the dandruff levels in the images on a scale

reduced scalp itchiness by 2.8 percent

of naught (absence) to five (very high

while the placebo treatment increased

degree), and an average value

scalp itchiness. The results demonstrate

was obtained.

Seascalp biomarine ingredient helps enhance scalp comfort.

After 28 days of treatment, the presence of dandruff was reduced by 40.8 percent in a statistically significant

Dandruff recurrence prevention

manner. The effect was sustained for

A second clinical study was performed

two weeks after the last application of

on a group 20 male and female

the product, which helped prevent the

volunteers from Spain. The volunteers

reappearance of dandruff. Lipid peroxidation was evaluated

from naught (no flakes at all) to 10 (thick white to yellow flakes closely attached to

were evaluated at the end of the

Figure 7: Dandruff reduction at 28 and 42 days (****p<0.0001 vs initial time)

through detection of malondialdehyde (MDA), used as a lipid peroxidation marker. This test was based on the ability of chromogen thiobarbituric acid to react with malondialdehyde to produce a stable chromophore, which can easily be quantified fluorometrically. After 28 days of treatment, lipid peroxidation was reduced significantly by 38.4 percent. Two weeks after the treatment, there was a further increase in the effect, reaching 100 percent reduction. This result shows that Seascalp

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

ETHNIC CARE Figure 6: Images of the scalp area of one volunteer. 6a-6c: general photography; 6d-6f: microphotography; 6g-6i. Corneofix technique

When tested in vivo on men and women of diverse ethnicities, Seascalp biomarine ingredient helped reduce the density of dandruff adherence, sebum levels and scalp itchiness. It 6a

also prevented the reappearance of dandruff and lipid peroxidation two weeks after treatment. •

biomarine ingredient helps prevent the

The ingredient showed in vitro to

reappearance of dandruff and protects

reduce the accumulation of sebaceous

the scalp. A proven solution

lipids, to upregulate genes involved

Seascalp biomarine ingredient helps to

in the physical barrier function as well

naturally support a healthy scalp with

as in the antioxidant defence and to

less itchiness, flakes and greasiness,

downregulate the expression of

while aiding in the daily management of

proinflammatory genes, all of which are

a dandruff-prone scalp.

linked to dandruff.

REFERENCES: 1. T urner G. A., Hoptroff M. and Harding C. R. Stratum Corneum dysfunction in dandruff. International Journal of Cosmetics Science. 34: 298-306, 2012. 2. Jourdain, R., Moga, A., Vingler, P., el Rawadi, C., Pouradier, F., Souverain, L., Bastien, P., Amalric, N. and Breton, L. Exploration of scalp surface lipids reveals squalene peroxide as a potential actor in dandruff condition. Archives of Dermatological Research. 308(3): 153-163, 2016. 3. Ro BI, Dawson TL. The role of sebaceous gland activity and scalp microfloral metabolism in the etiology of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 10(3):194-7, 2015. 4. Schwartz, J., Henry, J., Kerr, K., Mizoguchi, H. and Li, L. The role of oxidative damage in poor scalp health: ramifications to causality and associated hair growth. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37: 9-15, 2015.

Lubrizol Life Science – www.lubrizol.com/beauty Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

ETHNIC CARE

Simplicity is key for the African market

Innovation in the personal care industry has resulted in millions of product offerings, which can be overwhelming for formulators. Compared with the rest of the world, Africa has many challenges with regard to the manufacturing of personal care raw materials, thus relying heavily on imports. Jacques Strydom, technical manager for personal care and home care at AECI Specialty Chemicals, explains how simplifying the product offering with smart solutions could reduce the amount of raw materials procured without compromising performance.

ersonal care formulations can range

heating to about 85°C of both phases is

from extremely simplistic (with four

required to form the most stable emulsion.

or five ingredients) to extremely

Furthermore, specialised and expensive

complex (15+ ingredients). Some

homogenisers are typically required to

formulations do warrant the complexity,

minimise the micelle size, resulting in a

while others have simply been ‘over-

beautiful cream, which is stable.

formulated’, meaning that ingredients have been included in the formulation without having any benefit. When this happens, raw material stock increases, resulting in the likelihood of pack size and shelf life challenges. One solution is to eliminate non-value-adding ingredients and consolidate other ingredients with multifunctional materials. For instance, three individual preservatives can be substituted with a broad-spectrum preservation blend. Another example, discussed below, is when cold-process polymeric emulsifiers are

THE MOST AMAZING FEATURE OF THIS PRODUCT IS ITS ABILITY TO EMULSIFY A LARGE AMOUNT OF OIL WITHOUT INSTABILITY

used to replace emulsifiers, thickeners and

DID YOU KNOW? AECI Specialty Chemicals can

optimise customers’ formulations by eliminating the emulsifiers, emollients and thickeners and replacing them with just one ingredient. Besides the optimisation of the formulation, customers are always pleased with the reduction in manufacturing time, as neither heating nor specialised equipment and vessels are needed.

• the need for heating • the need for more than one vessel • technical know-how of HLB calculations • the need for specialised homogenisers. Cold-process inherently means that no

emollients, all at once.

heating is required, which is an amazing Another aspect that needs to be taken

feat in itself. Yet polymeric emulsifiers like

COLD-PROCESS POLYMERIC EMULSIFIERS

into account to make a stable emulsion

Aculyn Siltouch rheology modifier by Dow

is the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance

take this technology a few steps further.

For decades, creams and lotions have

(HLB) compatibility between the oils and

been made in the same way – typically

emulsifiers, which, if not chosen correctly, will

been various cold-process emulsifiers on

combining an oil and water phase, with the

result in an unstable emulsion or the overuse

the market which all had one function –

oil phase consisting mainly of emollients

of emulsifiers. This is where cold-process

emulsification. Thereafter, suppliers

and emulsifying waxes. The fact that the

polymeric emulsifiers add value, because

began launching polymeric emulsifiers,

emulsion is formed using waxes means that

they eliminate:

most often in a powder form.

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

In the past few years, there have

ETHNIC CARE Table 1: Simplistic white, viscous cream with a high load of mineral oil, using Aculyn Siltouch rheology modifier Phase Trade name INCI A Water Aqua B Mineral Oil* Paraffinum Liquidum Aculyn Siltouch Rheology Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Modifier* Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Dimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone C Preservative* Perfume

Wt% 57 40 3

QS QS

*Available at AECI, Specialty Chemicals

Yet these frequently resulted in an undesired

Arguably the most amazing feature of

• provides many textures, including buttery

appearance and sensory format, known

this product is its ability to emulsify a large

as the ‘cottage-cheese effect’. The benefit

amount of oil without instability. For instance,

• is compatible with a wide variety of oils,

of a polymeric emulsifier above a classic

3% of Aculyn Siltouch rheology modifier can

including mineral oil, caprylic/capric

emulsifier would be the polymeric matrix

emulsify up to 40% of mineral oil or caprylic/

that is formed, which adds both stability to

capric triglycerides (see Table 1).

the emulsion as well as viscosity.

creams, thin lotions and serums

triglycerides and most vegetable oils. Procedure: Add water to the vessel. Mix

In terms of functionality, formulation

Aculyn Siltouch and mineral oil. Slowly add

compatibility and the end product, this

water to the Aculyn Siltouch and mineral

A THREE-IN-ONE PRODUCT

rheology modifier:

oil mixture while stirring. Add the rest of the

What sets Aculyn Siltouch rheology modifier

• results in a non-tacky, light-feel emulsion

ingredients and mix until homogeneous.

apart from more traditional technologies

• provides instant thickening without the

Adjust pH to 6 to 7.•

is that it transcends the function of mere emulsification, offering additional built-in

need for neutralisation • is stable over a wide pH range and

emolliency and thickening, making it a

particularly suited for formulations

three-in-one product.

containing soft preservatives

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com

NO HEATING REQUIRED NO ADDITIONAL EMULSIFIERS NO ADDITIONAL THICKENERS NO ADDITIONAL EMOLLIENTS

NO HASSLE, RIGHT ?

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

ETHNIC CARE

A highly-concentrated handful of goodness Soap bars are regaining popularity but in a somewhat different guise. As the world attempts to reduce its reliance on plastics, products packaged in less plastic and formulated with ingredients that are less harmful to the environment are finding their way onto shelves.

t is believed that up to 80 billion plastic

obtain the same properties and

demand for vegan-friendly options. In

bottles from shampoo and conditioner

outcomes as conventional, diluted

response, it has designed a formulation

products enter the world’s oceans

personal care products.

that conforms to the COSMOS standard

every year. As a result, there is growing

To produce a good-quality product in a

pressure for the personal care industry to

solid format, BASF Care Creations has also

solid natural conditioners contains

find ways to reduce the use of plastic. In

addressed many of the concerns that

Plantaquat NC and Dehyquart GuarHP

fact, the Huffington Post has reported that

made soap bars less popular in the past,

and delivers excellent conditioning

the carbon footprint for liquid soaps is 25%

including that they were messy, crumbly

effects. Plantaquat NC is a high-

more than that of bar soaps.

and dried out skin and hair.

performance compound developed for

This accounts for the growing trend

for natural cosmetics. This formula for

hair conditioning products which offers

in shampoos and conditioners in solid

very good conditioning, volume and

formats. Whilst the concept may seem

hair-breakage protection. Dehyquart

fairly novel, based on the fact that traditional shampoos and conditioners have dominated the market, shampoo and conditioning bars have always been popular with backpackers and minimalist travellers because it’s easy to use and take up much less space than bottles. Brands like Lush and Ethique have been at the forefront of this trend, with their focus on zero waste and

ASIDE FROM SOLID SHAMPOOS, THE MARKET FOR SOLID CONDITIONERS IS ALSO GROWING

natural ingredients.

polymer for rinse-off applications like shampoos, hair treatments and body cleansing.

ECONOMICAL AND LONGLASTING Film forming represents the primary function of conditioning products, with improved manageability of hair through easier detangling and grooming.

According to Chemgrit Cosmetics, which sources and supplies ingredients

GuarHP is a guar flour-based conditioning

In comparative tests, BASF’s solid Aside from solid shampoos, the market

conditioners performed significantly

for solid shampoos and conditioners, the

for solid conditioners is also growing.

better than other products both in terms

growing interest in sustainable products

BASF has formulated solid conditioners

of wet and dry combing performance

and increasing awareness of resource-

that offer excellent conditioning effects

requiring far less combing effort after use.

friendly technologies have significantly

with soft, creamy textures. These

contributed to the greater use of water-

formulations include key ingredients

counterparts, also present an economic

free formulations.

such as Dehyquart F 75 T, a mild and

advantage compared to classic liquid

effective conditioning agent; and

formats in that whilst they are small, they

A SOLID OUTLOOK

Dehyquart A-CA, an effective aqueous,

are very concentrated and last longer.

BASF Care Creations, represented in

liquid conditioning agent that can be

Solid bars can last from two to five times

Southern Africa by Chemgrit Cosmetics,

used in many different formats.

longer than liquid products.•

Solid conditioners, like their shampoo

recently presented a collection of products, including an easy foaming

VEGAN AND NATURAL

shampoo and solid conditioners. The

Aside from the use of plastic, BASF has

presentation highlights the importance of

also identified the increasing awareness

choosing the right ingredients for

for environmentally friendly, 100%

your formulation as this is essential to

ecological products as well as the

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za

ETHNIC CARE

A sustainable approach

to beauty and community development While rapidly evolving into an international manufacturer of personal care products, a woman-owned organisation is providing amazing employment opportunities to many African people. Florratt Cosmetics is making a difference by creating decent and dignified jobs for its team of mostly female employees, many of whom are sometimes the sole breadwinners in their families. It also has a further 12 000 multi-level

skin, promoting skin regeneration and

marketing members across Africa and the

improving its flexibility and permeability.

world. The distribution business model,

Products formulated with rosehip oil can

proven by international giants such as Avon

improve skin’s texture and even reduce the

and Amway, facilitates the supply of its

appearance of acne scars or stretch marks.

products to consumers, ensuring that they

Cacti like the prickly pear have high levels

reach target customers in the most direct

of vitamin E, known to help skin and hair

and cost-efficient manner.

stay nourished. They also boost linoleic fatty acid, encouraging new cell growth and

Mampho Tjabane pictured in one of the manufacturing facilities of Florratt Cosmetics

DIFFERENTIATION IS KEY

brightness of the skin.

Tjabane, an

be these two plants that grow abundantly in

ounder and CEO of Florratt

electrical engineer

the South African and Lesotho mountains,”

Cosmetics, Mampho Tjabane, says

by profession,

Tjabane says. “Through

that when you create employment

brought curiosity,

the sustainable use of

for women and grow their skills, you

critical thinking,

medicinal plants like these

empower people and uplift communities.

and creativity to

and many others, Florratt

What makes this venture different is that

the table when she

Cosmetics has developed

the products are manufactured in Africa

started the business,

a range of solutions for

yet distributed globally. The direct-selling

seeking out ways to

different skin and hair

business model offers thousands of women

differentiate it from

entrepreneurial and income-generating

competitors. Her experience enabled the

dry skin, acne, pigmentation, blemishes

opportunities. There are no barriers to

development of a professional production

and cellulite, as well as dry and

entry to direct sales, no level of education

facility along with a strong and loyal

malnourished hair.”

or training is required, and it can be done

customer base and the procurement of

from home. The women earn commission

sustainable raw materials.

through their personal sales to customers

“In addition to manufacturing cosmetics in Africa, we are committed to changing lives,” explains Tjabane. “Along with our marketing activities, we rely on a network of thousands of enthusiastic

concerns, including

Promoting the use of indigenous

as well as from sales made by their sales teams.

“The key to differentiation turned out to

plants and traditional

DID YOU KNOW?

knowledge to improve skin and hair health is

Florratt Cosmetics hopes to become a centre of excellence in the production of high-quality natural cosmetics that meet customers’ needs. In its mission statement, it says it seeks to create resultsoriented natural and scientifically formulated cosmetics.

at the heart of Florratt

This innovative company uses indigenous plants to manufacture environmentally and socially sustainable personal care products focused on soothing and moisturising benefits. Founded by Tjabane in 2015,

Cosmetics’ business.

she began operations from her home in

Although people are

Maseru, Lesotho. Thereafter she opened

often unaware of the

the first Florratt Cosmetics factory. She

uses of wild plants

then relocated to South Africa to launch a

and flowers, they

second factory in Kya Sands, Johannesburg,

have been used for centuries for medicinal

distributors across Africa to

and beauty purposes.

grow the business. They earn

Two plants in particular

an income by selling our products to

POISED FOR EXPANSION

have provided the raw material

with the latest manufacturing plant being established at the Maluti-a-Phofung special economic zone in Harrismith, Free State. The business has grown into one of the leaders in the African cosmetics industry,

their own networks, who must register with us

for the flourishing business: rosehip (known

supplying products from South Africa and

in order to buy.”

in Lesotho as ‘morobei’) and the cactus

Lesotho, various other African countries,

(known as ‘torofeie’). The fatty acids and

and further afield to India, Australia, and the

vitamin A in rosehip oil moisturise the

United Kingdom. •

Today the company employs more than 50 factory staff of which 90% are women.

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

INDUSTRY TALK

How to mix and manufacture

COMPLIANT HAND SANITISER Designed to be an alternative to washing hands with water and surfactants, hand sanitisers reduce the viral and bacterial load on skin. While they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily kill everything, viruses such as COVID-19 are more susceptible when using hand sanitisers. Dr Russel Walters, freelance scientist at Kolabtree, shares his expertise on how to formulate and manufacture an alcohol-based hand sanitiser quickly, easily and compliantly.

n order for a virus to infect a human

can also spread viral particles when

host, the host needs to be exposed

touching the eyes, mouth, food etc.

to a sufficient viral load, typically hundreds, thousands or tens of

Hand sanitisers have repeatedly been

options are few and constraints clear. This article focuses on the two formulations permitted by the FDA under

shown to slow the spread of viruses

the recent COVID-19 guidance. The choice

thousands of viral particles. Using hand

and are regulated in most countries.

is yours.

sanitiser dramatically reduces the viral

In the US, the FDA recently liberalised

load on the skin, reducing infection, or

manufacturing rules, creating a

infection severity.

favourable situation for manufacturers

INCREASED AVAILABILITY TO FIGHT THE VIRUS

and formulators who are new to the

Before the coronavirus, in the US hand

infected person is best for transmission,

Long, sustained exposure to an

industry. It opens a legal path for

sanitisers were produced by very large,

which makes it important to sanitise

those looking to expand into hand

FDA-registered drug manufacturers, like

hands because they are our primary

sanitiser supply and makes formulation

Purell. However, in March 2020, the FDA

contact with the outside world. Hands

straightforward. Unlike skin lotions, the

issued guidance for expanded production

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

INDUSTRY TALK

of hand sanitisers during COVID-19. The

In skin care products, fragrances are

intention was to increase the availability

often used to cover the underlying base

of hand sanitisers by opening up which

odour, but this is unnecessary in hand

entities could manufacture them beyond

sanitisers as their base odour is minimal.

previously licensed or registered drug

Under the FDA COVID hand sanitiser

manufacturers. However, the authority

guidance, fragrances and skin benefit

is still very specific on the actual

ingredients are explicitly not allowed.

formulations, permitting two possible options, which are either ethanol

TIPS TO CONSIDER

or isopropanol.

The two simple water/alcohol formulas

The World Health Organization (WHO)

included in this article will be water-thin

has also released an excellent step-by-

and easily sprayable. However, hand

step guide for the production of hand

sanitiser gels, like Purell, use polymers to

sanitisers in various regions. The two

increase the viscosity, which can add

formulation options recommended by the

some significant complications in the

WHO are the same as those proposed by

manufacturing process.

the FDA. Both are explained below.

Although thickening polymers are not part of the FDA formula described above,

INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSING

you may want to read more about the

According to the guidelines, the hand

different polymeric options for thickening

sanitiser must be manufactured using

a water/alcohol solution.

only the following ingredients: either

Boiling is the easiest and most likely

ethanol or isopropanol, glycerine,

source of sterile water. But be careful of

hydrogen peroxide and sterile water.

heating and boiling water near the high-

Combine the four ingredients, mix them

proof, flammable alcohol.

with care, and you have a hand sanitiser ready for the new post-COVID-19 world. The proportion of ingredients is specified in volume percent – but be aware of the difference between volume

While there are a few sources of ethanol, it’s important to note it must be denatured, i.e. made to taste bad to avoid consumption. Mixing the components together

percent and weight percent. There is

is relatively straightforward, with one

a big difference, because different

caveat – passivation. If you are using

ingredients have different densities.

a glass or fibreglass vessel to mix your

While water has a density of 1g/cm3,

hand sanitiser, then passivation is not

ethanol has a density of 0.789g/cm3.

a concern. However, if you are using a

Also note that most raw materials

metal vessel, you will need to be aware

are not supplied as 100% pure, single

that, in the presence of metal ions from

ingredients, and they often contain some

the vessel, the hydrogen peroxide rapidly

water. Ethanol is typically supplied as

breaks down to water and oxygen.

95% ethanol and 5% water, or 190 proof.

between production and use is another

composition into your calculations.

important consideration. The packaging

skin care products, but in hand sanitisers these ingredients are not needed and will

must seal sufficiently. Manual pumps are explicitly allowed in the FDA guidance. Ethanol is a natural product with

increase the raw material prices of

natural antimicrobials, yet efficacy data

your product.

on them is limited. As hand sanitisers are regulated, in order to label and market a product as a hand sanitiser, the FDA

ACCESS MORE CONTENT ONLINE ON HAND SANITISERS:

• a video on how hand sanitisers work: https://bit.ly/2XOpKVp • WHO guide to hand sanitiser production: https://bit.ly/3dSHLHq • FDA hand sanitiser guidance: https://bit. ly/2XQZnOC • Gojo technical publications on hand hygiene education: https://bit. ly/3dQSO3U • extensive details and background from USP: https://bit.ly/37eRzJx.

FORMULA 1: ETHANOL (VOLUME%) • ethanol 80% • glycerine 1.45% • hydrogen peroxide 0.125% • water QS.

FORMULA 2: ISOPROPANOL (VOLUME%) • isopropanol 75% • glycerine 1.45% • hydrogen peroxide 0.125% • water QS.

Therefore, the core of your hand sanitiser formula should not cause any skin problems. Furthermore, fragrance is often the source of skin irritation, especially an allergenic response.

TESTING Many problems are solved if you follow the FDA guidance on hand sanitisers and there is no need to test the bug-killing efficacy of your formula. Hand sanitisers based on the formulas outlined in this article are well-proven to effectively kill bugs and be safe for the user. You will simply need to check that after production, the alcohol level – ethanol or isopropyl alcohol – is validated by physical chemistry means such as an alcoholmeter or hydrometer. If you’re looking for a freelance scientist to help you begin manufacturing hand sanitiser, you can visit the Kolabtree website to post your project for free. •

Ensuring alcohol evaporation is limited

So, you need to factor the raw material Users tend to really like fragrances in

FDA-PERMITTED HAND SANITISER FORMULATIONS

guidelines must be met.

SKIN SAFETY AND ALLERGIES Hand sanitisers are likely better for the skin barrier than repeated washing with soap. Cleansing with soap often removes

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Previously a research fellow at J&J, Dr Russel Walters (PhD) has developed skin care technologies that were launched into dozens of products and 100s of SKUs. He is a prolific inventor with more than 20 US patents and is an active researcher with more than 35 scientific articles published. Dr Walters is on the scientific advisory board of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine. As the co-founder and CTO of Somn, Dr Walters also consults in the personal care and digital health spaces. •

skin components and can disrupt the natural structure of the skin. In contrast, after killing bugs on the skin, the alcohol in hand sanitisers rapidly evaporates

Kolabtree – www.kolabtree.com

and has little impact on the skin barrier.

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

PHARMA FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS

Your partner in

direct compression expertise Meggle Excipients & Technology is a specialist in lactose-based excipients required for DC tabletting and processing. Its industry leading and comprehensive pharmaceutical excipient portfolio covers various solid dosage forms, from tablets, capsules and sachets to powder formulations and dry powder inhalation, including a number of exclusive proprietary formulations.

epresented throughout southern Africa by Amchem, Meggle’s direct compression (DC) lactose offering extends beyond products,

manufacture and supply to technical

co-processed excipient • a lpha-lactose monohydrate and microcrystalline cellulose • fi ne milled alpha-lactose monohydrate crystals

purpose-designed for DC, combining the flowability of coarse lactose crystals and the high compressibility of fine milled lactose. Featuring a broad range of particle size distributions, Tablettose

expertise, process and development

• c rystalline alpha-lactose monohydrate

offers a range of benefits including very

consultancy.

• c o-processed hypromellose lactose

good flowability and compactability,

DC is the most accessible form of oral dosage production, involving the fewest process stages and quickest production.

for DC • a lpha-lactose monohydrate and maize starch.

The choice of ideal DC excipient is defined

low hygroscopicity, excellent stability, superior blending characteristics and rapid disintegration. As a result, it supports a wide range of useful applications,

by a range of factors, including:

MILLED LACTOSE

including low-dose DC formulations,

• t he need for particle engineered DC

Sieved, milled or micronised lactose is

capsule and sachet filling, effervescent

excipients to ensure correct flow and

ideal for optimum granulation, for use

tablets, artificial sweeteners and orally

compression characteristics

with limited flowability compounds that

disintegrating tablets.

• c onsideration of active ingredient

demand granulation before tabletting.

• c ompatibility with other ingredients

the most frequently used excipient for

CO-PROCESSED MONOPARTICULATE LACTOSE AND CELLULOSE

with a ‘classic’ DC powder mixture

granulation. Meggle’s GranuLac and

Alpha-lactose monohydrate and cellulose

usually containing a binder and a

SorboLac both offer small particle size

powder are functional excipients used in

lubricant and sometimes a disintegrant

distributions, supporting a range of

oral solid dosage forms. Both are naturally

and glidant

applications including wet granulation,

derived and well-established for use in the

Generally, the selection of pharmaceutical

dry compression, premixes, trituration,

pharma industry.

excipients for DC is more critical than

fermentation and flavour off-set.

dosage levels, with DC occupying a

Because of its good compression

‘sweet spot’ between 0.5 and 50mg

and blending properties, lactose is

for granulation, or wet granulation in

These formulations offer the following

In an effort to create synergistic functional performance, such as improved

particular. Few traditional excipients

convincing advantages:

compactability and mixing characteristics,

combine the functional characteristics,

• good compactability

Meggle uses co-spray drying to integrate

specifically powder flow and

• ideal blending properties

alpha-lactose monohydrate and cellulose

compactability required for robust DC.

• narrow particle size distribution

powder into a monoparticulate system.

This makes modifying traditional

• long lasting storage stability

excipients a necessity.

• high batch-to-batch consistency.

DC EXCIPIENTS

formulations include the InhaLac

tabletting, comprising 75% alpha-lactose

Meggle offers more than 50 different

range of sieved, milled or micronised

monohydrate and 25% powdered

lactose-based excipients suitable for

pharmaceutical lactose, particularly suited

cellulose, both maintaining their

DC, under a range of brands, including

to dry powder inhalation drug delivery

individual chemical identities. Although

Tablettose, FlowLac, DuraLac, Cellactose,

applications.

it’s designed for direct compression

In addition, Meggle’s milled lactose

MicroceLac, StarLac, CombiLac, RetaLac,

Cellactose 80 was developed to provide the flow and compaction properties necessary for direct compression

tabletting, Cellactose 80 can be used

and InhaLac. These brands cover the

AGGLOMERATED LACTOSE

in other formulation applications such

following eight main categories:

The Tablettose range from Meggle

as dry granulation and capsule filling. In

• s ieved, milled or micronised lactose

is manufactured using a continuous

comparison to a corresponding physical

spray agglomeration process, where

blend of the individual components,

• agglomerated lactose

water is used as the binder and sprayed

Cellactose 80 provides improved

• c o-processed monoparticulate lactose

onto fluidised fine milled lactose

compactability, superior flowability

particles, creating liquid bridges to form

and increased adherence capacity,

agglomerated lactose. Tablettose is

which reduces segregation tendencies

for DC

and cellulose • integrated, lactose-based,

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

PHARMA FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS

typical of simple powder blends, making it

lactose monohydrate crystals in a solution

in each particle. It is characterised by

ideal for low-dose formulations.

of lactose. This production process

superior functional performance such

involves the rapid removal of water to form

as improved flow and blendability.

amorphous, non-crystalline lactose in

Additionally, due to its monoparticulate

addition to crystalline lactose.

structure, RetaLac possesses both

INTEGRATED, LACTOSE-BASED CO-PROCESSED EXCIPIENT Meggle’s high-functionality excipient,

Due to the spray-drying, FlowLac has a

plastic and brittle fracture deformation

CombiLac is specifically designed to ease

spherical agglomerate shape, consisting of

characteristics, enhancing compactability

the development and manufacture of oral

small alpha-lactose monohydrate crystals

in DC, compared to traditional wet

solid dosage forms. It consists of 70% alpha-

bound by amorphous lactose. This provides

granulated and physical admixtures of the

lactose monohydrate, 20% microcrystalline

excellent flowability and extraordinary

parent ingredients.

cellulose (MCC) and 10% white, native corn

compactability compared to other lactose

starch, with each conforming with Ph.Eur.,

grades. Its additional benefits include low

release applications that form an important

USP-NF, and JP compendial requirements.

hygroscopicity, high stability and

development strategy for the global

All three components are integrated into

fast disintegration.

pharma industry, particularly in extending

an inseparable monoparticulate structure.

RetaLac also supports the modified

The amorphous content and high

the lifecycle of products nearing patent

stability provide superior DC tabletting

expiration or improving efficacy through

properties compared to an equivalent

properties, while supporting low to medium

more structured API release profiles,

admixture of individual ingredients,

dose DC formulations, formulations with

cost-effective product manufacture and

providing robust tablets with minimal

poorly flowing APIs, and capsule and

improved patient compliance.

friability. It assures rapid, hardness-

sachet filling.

CombiLac shows improved compaction

independent tablet disintegration for

ALPHA-LACTOSE MONOHYDRATE AND MAIZE STARCH

flow characteristics necessary to enhance

CRYSTALLINE ALPHA-LACTOSE MONOHYDRATE

dosage form weight uniformity and

These grades have a long history of

starch (corn starch) are functional

throughput in DC.

use in traditional pharma applications,

excipients frequently combined as diluents

such as oral, parenteral and inhaled

or direct compression binders in direct

medicines, due to their chemical and

compression wet or dry applications.

effective API release and features powder

ALPHA-LACTOSE MONOHYDRATE AND MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE MicroceLac 100 is an alpha-lactose

physical stability, versatile binder-filler properties and global availability. Meggle’s recrystallised alpha-lactose

Alpha-lactose monohydrate and maize

StarLac combines 85% alpha-lactose monohydrate and 15% native maize starch to provide the compaction and

monohydrate and microcrystalline

monohydrate particles are impacted by

lubricant insensitivity characteristics

cellulose monoparticulate system having

milling or sieving during production to

desired for DC, and the hydration

two compaction mechanisms, brittle

influence their physical characteristics and

properties needed for rapid API release.

fracture and plastic deformation, within

functional performance, such as improving

Its flowability is also superior compared

individual particles. It provides the flow

cohesion and increasing compactability.

to a physical blend of the individual

The company’s milled alpha-lactose

components in equivalent ratio. This

and compaction properties desired for DC tabletting, combining 75% alpha-lactose

monohydrate grades, including milled

excipient is designed for DC and may be

monohydrate and 25% microcrystalline

GranuLac 70, GranuLac 140, GranuLac

used in other formulation development

cellulose (MCC), both maintaining their

200, GranuLac 230 and SorboLac 400,

approaches. In comparison to a physical

individual chemical identities.

as well as the sieved grades PrismaLac

blend of the individual components,

Although MicroceLac 100 is designed

40, CapsuLac 60, SacheLac 80 and

StarLac provides superior flow,

for DC, it may be applied to other

SpheroLac 100 have been used by

improved compaction, decreased

formulation development approaches

numerous pharmaceutical manufacturers

lubricant sensitivity and hardness-

such as dry granulation and capsule

throughout history as diluents in dry and

independent tablet disintegration. Its brittle

filling. In comparison to a physical blend

wet granulation processes.

and plastic deformation characteristics

of the individual components, it provides

Meggle’s sieved and milled lactose

support a range of dry granulation

enhanced compaction and superior

grades are generated by a well-defined

formulations. StarLac possesses a narrow

flowability to improve blending and

manufacturing process, resulting in a high

particle size distribution, which

mitigate API content variability. The superior

degree of crystallinity.

supports the preparation of a homogenous

blending characteristics of MicroceLac

powder blend, essential for achieving good tablet quality. It also exhibits

where API content uniformity is critical,

CO-PROCESSED HYPROMELLOSE LACTOSE FOR DC

while its excellent compaction properties

Meggle’s co-processed lactose RetaLac is

relative humidity conditions due to

help increase tablet hardness, making it

the first hypromellose/lactose-based, co-

the starch influence on the observed

well-suited for high-dose formulations.

processed excipient specifically designed

equilibrium moisture content. •

100 make it ideal for low-dose formulations

moderate moisture uptake under high

for DC and dry granulation of modified

FINE MILLED ALPHA-LACTOSE MONOHYDRATE CRYSTALS

release formulations.

Meggle’s FlowLac is produced by spray-

composition, it is monoparticulate in

drying a suspension of fine milled alpha-

structure with hypromellose and lactose

Although RetaLac is a binary

Amchem – www.amchem.co.za Meggle Excipients & Technology – www.meggle-pharma.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

LABELLING

How to minimise case and pallet

labelling downtime

Launched in May 2020, Markem-Imaje’s 2200 production interface, available in southern Africa from Pyrotec PackMark, reduces the risk of rework and recalls. It does this by minimising the scope for operator error since label data and formats can be more easily controlled.

ith downtime, rework and recalls eating into profits, manufacturers need to minimise these elements.

The 2200 series print and apply labelling system for cases and pallets has long been proven to save up to six days’ downtime per year. Downtime is reduced thanks to the ability to preview and adjust labels digitally. The large intuitive

The 2200 series print and apply labelling system on a packaging line

touchscreen also helps operators work

demand from a remote location directly

faster. The launch of the production

to the printer via the CoLOS information

interface builds on this achievement

management system.

by incorporating new features, which

Incorrect label selection by operators

The production interface limits the potential for operator error, speeds up changeovers and reduces the likelihood of rework and recalls

damage and personal injury. The highly streamlined and intuitive full-colour interface also makes it quicker and easier to switch between

limit the potential for operator error,

can also be eliminated by enabling

jobs and deal with other printer issues.

speed up changeovers and reduce the

keyboard-free label selection and

Operators are no longer distracted by

likelihood of rework and recalls.

variable data updating through a

the extraneous detail of limited use in

connection to a hand-held barcode

day-to-day printing.

Traditionally, labels are created and stored away from the production line.

reader that can be linked to a

Untrained or distracted operators can

production manifest.

make mistakes by picking the wrong product label and/or inputting the wrong data from the remote location. With no label preview function at printer level, mistakes can only be spotted once printing has begun. This results in production stops and rework and, if undetected, it can lead to recalls. The production interface minimises the scope for mistakes and accelerates changeovers. It also makes case and pallet labelling less resource intensive to manage, freeing up operators to do

Available in 261mm or 396mm touchscreens, colour-coded printer statuses are more visible at a distance

THE 2200 SERIES PRINT AND APPLY LABELLING SYSTEM … HAS LONG BEEN PROVEN TO SAVE UP TO SIX DAYS’ DOWNTIME PER YEAR

so problems can be spotted and addressed without delay. Warnings and alerts can easily be viewed in the user’s chosen language, which also speeds up problem resolution without the need to look up complex error codes.

ACCURATE AND EFFICIENT The entry-level production interface controls one 2200 series print and apply system while the advanced version can handle two on the same or different

HIGHLY USER FRIENDLY

lines. The CoLOS line terminal variant

The large touchscreen of the production

can manage up to four printers of any

interface shows exactly how variable

type (not just print and apply) while

The improved storage capacity means

content will appear on the printed label.

deploying other applications, such as

labels can now be stored together

If needed, operators can easily make

CoLOS mark and read and CoLOS printer

more effectively at printer level with

six types of minor adjustments, such as

performance, for the ultimate solution in

limited image editing capabilities. This

label position and print contrast, digitally

accuracy, traceability and efficiency. •

protects layout and data integrity, while

via the interface. With other labellers,

increasing speed. For even greater

setting changes can be so difficult to

accuracy and efficiency, the enhanced

access that operators commonly resort

connectivity makes it easier for label

to manually moving the printer product

formats and data to be retrieved on

sensor. This can result in equipment

other activities of a higher priority.

ENHANCED CONNECTIVITY

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

Markem-Imaje – www.markem-imaje.com Pyrotec PackMark – packmark.co.za

LABELLING

New pharma thermochromic inks free of bisphenol A, F and S

As the world’s supply chain for pharmaceutical drugs comes under increasing scrutiny for safety and quality, CTI has introduced printable thermochromic technology that is free of bisphenol A, F and S. The development meets the stringent regulatory standards for pharma packaging.

he spread of the coronavirus has refocused the world’s attention on BlindSpotz high heat sensor is activated if a drug package exceeds a target temperature

proper care of the supply chain for vaccines and drugs. Additionally,

interest has surged in low-cost technology that monitors the cold chain, identifies temperature abuse and tampering and

TECHNOLOGY REINVENTED Printers of pharmaceutical packaging, as well as food and beverage packaging printers, are requiring CTI’s innovative thermochromic inks

provides authentication.

to be free of bisphenol A, F and Bisphenol A (BPA) has been

rejected traditional thermochromics for

though it is found in many plastics, the

not meeting strict internal and external

lining of food and beverage cans and

regulatory standards.

carbonless paper. Several companies

The BlindSpotz freeze alert sensor can be printed on a label, syringe or aluminium cap. The technology prints clear and will turn blue if the drug freezes at any time in supply chain

UV fluorescing authentication ensures the correct packages go with the right drug. It also allows a healthcare professional to ensure a product’s authenticity

S. This is because they have

labelled ‘an endocrine disruptor’,

“We undertook the challenge of

have attempted to limit bisphenol A,

reinventing thermochromic technology

F and S in order to be more cautious.

to meet the high standards of

Chromatic Technologies Inc. (CTI)

pharmaceutical customers,” says Lyle

has recognised this effort and

Small, CTI’s chief executive officer. “Not

responded with its latest innovation

only did we create CTI’s products free

now available to pharmaceutical

of BPA, F and S, we also installed a

packaging companies. CTI’s

21-step checklist to validate quality

BlindSpotz technology is a portfolio of

and performance.” •

patented technologies, which have created low-cost printable sensors for drugs. These sensors detect freezing, thawing, gradual warming, tampering

CTI – www.ctiinks.com

and authentication.

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info_sa@omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_02_d01.indd 1

09-06-20 10:22

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

LABELLING

Short-run digital labelling means BIG BUSINESS We live in a time where shorter print runs have become far more favourable. This is because small to mid-sized brands also want professional, eye-catching products that compete well on shelf, without having to commit to printing tens of thousands of labels. This trend is seeing digital options become the norm in an environment where customisation is key.

INSTALLATION RAMPS UP CAPACITY

effective to run, the colours are vibrant

Label Smart is a South African label

clear. The broad range of print media

printing company specialising in short-run

available on the South African market,

digital labelling cut to any size and shape

from chemically resistant options to

a client requires. The company recently

high gloss, enables us to fulfil any

purchased an OKI printer coupled with

industry requirement. Knowing that

SimpleCut-S from NSI 4 Africa, making it

NSI 4 Africa is firmly in our corner

fully equipped to meet the deodorant

whenever we need assistance gives

brand owner’s needs.

us the confidence to offer our clients

Designs and proofs were completed

even on tight deadlines,” the Label

delivered on time with time to spare for

Smart employee adds. Paradise Collection was so pleased

applications to the deodorant bottles and

with the deodorant labels designed and

fill the order within the deadline.

printed by Label Smart that it’s asked

An employee from Label Smart used

customised label production services,

within days and the complete job was the brand owner to complete the label

A Paradise Collection deodorant bottle with a broken tamper-proof seal

and even the tiniest text is crisp and

the label printing company to extend

the Paradise Collection logo to create a

the brand identity and design bespoke

customised label that was both interesting

packaging for its perfume collection.

and unique. “With the leaf shapes die-cut to form,

Although the cosmetics line by Paradise Collection is still comparatively small, the

we sized it up so that the top section of

OKI solution allows Label Smart to grow

igital printing really shines

the label serves the added function of

with the client, helping the brand owner

when projects are time

being a security tamper-proof seal for the

become established while growing its

sensitive with tight deadlines

bottle. Once the bottle has been opened,

business. It’s a win-win situation for all

because there’s no need to

the label tears at the cap joint. This gives

parties concerned. •

produce flexographic plates or dies. This

the end user the confidence that they’re

means that companies offering digital

purchasing a product that hasn’t been

technologies can accommodate almost

tested or tampered with,” the Label Smart

anything a small to medium-sized beauty

employee explains.

brand owner needs within the time frame they need it. When Paradise Collection, a South

A VERSATILE SOLUTION Label Smart praised NSI 4 Africa for

African cosmetics manufacturer, needed

the support and professionalism the

2 000 deodorant labels at short notice,

company experienced. Label Smart is

Label Smart’s digital printing service

the value-added OKI reseller for sub-

offered the right solution. Not only did

Saharan Africa.

the brand owner require the labels

“Shawn Bezuidenhout’s

within two weeks to coincide with a

recommendations were exact when we

delivery promise, it also needed artwork

asked for his advice before investing

designed for an ‘amazing and unique’

in the new equipment. The solution he

label. The bombshell was that the client’s

proposed has proven to be versatile

requirement for 2 000 labels had to be

enough to accommodate highly unique

split between 20 product variants.

requests for clients which are cost-

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

A sample of labels created for Paradise Collection

Label Smart – www.labelsmart.co.za NSI 4 Africa – www.nsi4africa.com

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Highly complex virtual FAT no match for Optima

A total of 11 cameras were used to track the FAT of a highly complex highperformance filling system for cosmetics manufacturing. This machine acceptance test has been noted as the most complex virtual FAT in the history of Optima.

line for Company A which fills 30 different

needed a little over a week to check all

variants of liquid cosmetics in over

the functions and formats. According to

30 different-sized containers.

Kühne, complex acceptances like this one

It took a team of 10 employees from

require maximum trust. Thankfully, the close

Company A, 11 high-tech cameras, stateof-the-art digital technology and more than 30 spectators daily to carry out the FAT. Apart from the customer not being physically present, the Optima Consumer project manager, Jochen Weller (pictured right), communicates with the US-based customer, explaining the processes underway within the machine

virtual FAT followed strict protocols. Production and safety-related tests were also live-streamed while they were carried out on the machine in line with approved FAT procedures. Communication with the customer was facilitated using chat functions and audio transmission.

partnership that Optima maintains with its customers is paying dividends

DID YOU KNOW? The filling and sealing

and Company A was impressed with the virtual FAT. “We have already asked

machines from Optima Consumer other suppliers are accomplished in a variety of whether they product formats – from perfumes, could also crèmes and gels to mascara and lip gloss. The company’s innovative envisage technologies expertly match a virtual dosing, filling and sealing to acceptance the assembly of complex packaging systems, of this kind,” including turnkey states the technical solutions. project manager at

Company A.

DIGITAL TECH OFFERS PLENTY OF BENEFITS

decision early on to add virtual FATs to the

he global COVID-19 pandemic

There are additional advantages to virtual

Optima total care portfolio of our life cycle

and associated travel restrictions

FATs other than prompt delivery.

management programme. We also give

Optima staff document all the functional tests in detail

have made established digital

Heiko Kühne, vice president: cosmetics &

“This confirms that we made the right

customers the flexibility to choose the extent

chemicals at Optima Consumer, explains:

to which the virtual acceptance process

for business continuity and maintaining

“Additional experts at the customer, who

is carried out – either as a complement or

connections – and Optima is making full

are not part of the acceptance team, can

in full,” says Kühne, adding that Optima

use of them. Because customers of the

easily contribute to knowledge-sharing in

Consumer has another two virtual FATs in

special machine manufacturer currently

certain areas.”

the pipeline. •

technologies even more appealing

cannot personally view factory acceptance

Optima can also contact key suppliers to

tests (FATs) for their new systems, Optima

provide input on any questions that arise.

is live-streaming these by video instead.

This generates an exchange of ideas across

Although this process is not new for Optima,

disciplines and strengthens the sense of

this particular FAT was one of the most

partnership. Even operating staff who do not

far-reaching web-based undertakings the

normally get to travel to the acceptance test

company has ever performed.

are given an opportunity to gain in-depth

The client (Company A) – a multinational

insight into the workings of machinery. The

corporation based in the US – was live the

results include short commissioning times

entire time with over 30 of its staff members

and a rapid start to production.

following every step of the virtual FAT on a daily basis.

A GOOD DECISION FROM THE START

ALL PROTOCOLS OBSERVED

The wide range of formats and the multiple

Optima realised an extremely flexible,

steps in the process made this acceptance

highly automated high-performance filling

process particularly challenging. The team

A video technician monitors the live streaming

Optima Consumer – www.optima-packaging.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Integrated solution

Rychiger MC 1400 machine platform

boosts quality and keeps contamination in check

Working together with Rockwell Automation, Rychiger reinvented a demanding assembly process for a customer in diagnostics and syndromic infectious testing. The duo achieved this by replacing manual processes with a fully automated and fully integrated control and automation solution.

ccurate and timely test

the sample is not tainted, spoiled or

This Switzerland-based company is a

results can be the difference

wasted. Crucial to sample delivery is

specialist in the design, development

between life and death

ensuring that everything a patient’s

and fabrication of customer-specific

when dealing with infectious

sample comes into contact with is free

solutions for packaging machines in the

of contamination.

healthcare and food and

diseases. One of the most important advances in modern medicine is swift diagnosis, often via diagnostics.

Previously, a market leader in diagnostics and SIDT (company A)

Thanks to modern reagents and

beverage industries. “We help healthcare providers

relied heavily on manual processes

improve patient care and satisfaction

automated analysis technology,

to manufacture its single-use testing

by providing faster and better results,”

significant advances have been made

cartridges. These closed-system

explains a representative from company

in diagnostics and syndromic infectious

disposable modules contain all the

A. “Our test cartridge solution is the

disease testing (SIDT) over the last

chemistry required to isolate, amplify

standard for syndromic infectious

few decades, allowing rapid disease

and detect nucleic acid from a patient’s

disease diagnostics. Patients and

identification and the earlier

sample for IVD testing.

commencement of life-saving

With any manual

treatments based on

fabrication process

laboratory results.

– especially one that relies heavily

QUALITY-DRIVEN DESIGN

on workers

doctors depend on us to deliver accurate results fast and we value partnerships that allow us to constantly improve our processes and the care we provide to people who need answers.”

– there is a

Like any scientific

possibility for

procedure, the

contaminants

REDUCE VARIABILITY AND BOOST QUALITY

to be

“Our customer’s goal was to fully

process chain is only as strong

introduced.

as its weakest link, which is why the pharmaceutical and life

Manual Ultrasonic welding application on the Rychiger MC 1400

sciences industries are so heavily legislated and quality driven. With infectious diseases, quick and

processes can also influence fabrication quality, repeatability

and yield. It was this drive to boost quality,

automate the cartridge fabrication process while reducing contamination to an absolute minimum,” explains Bruno Lauener, key account manager, healthcare sales at Rychiger. “The solution would need to fully automate the handling of the cartridges to create

accurate results matter. The optimal

throughput and reduce losses that

consistency in the process, reduce

delivery of a patient’s samples is the

prompted the company to approach

potential contamination and increase

most important step to confirm that

Rychiger for an automated solution.

production capacity.”

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

QUALITY ASSURANCE can take a station offline and keep the

internal surfaces have been designed to

of automation solutions from Rockwell

Company A already had experience

machine running with little impact

be easy to wipe, with minimal trap points

Automation, as did Rychiger. Company A

on production.”

and voids.

also had experience of the MagneMotion

In addition to the MagneMotion

Lauener explains: “From the very

independent cart technology (ICT), since

system, the MC 1400 machine Rychiger

beginning of the project, our work with

it had previously developed a system, in-

developed has multiple servo axes,

this customer quickly evolved into a

house, using this technology. As a result,

all driven by Allen-Bradley Kinetix

real conjoint development of the two

the two companies agreed that the new

servo drives, two Allen-

machine should be designed around the

Bradley VersaView 5200

MagneMotion ICT due to the flexibility,

thin clients, and

accuracy and repeatability it offers for a

FactoryTalk View SE

demanding multi-stage assembly process

SCADA software.

such as this.

All station-

equipped machine

specific HMIs

and then started

solution to make it easier to move light

are managed

the new machine’s

loads, like its cartridge components,

by the Rockwell

development

while maintaining full track-and-trace

Automation

with lab trials

capabilities and faster cycle times. More

ThinManager

precise control and intelligent motion

software,

could optimise assembly efficiency

which centralises

and speed while helping to eliminate

information and data,

disruption. With fewer moving parts than

as well as offers remote/

conventional systems, MagneMotion

mobile access.

Rychiger’s customer needed a

engineering teams. We visited them to see the existing manual production line as well as a MagneMotion-

before improving, enhancing and The human machine interface

enlarging the concept until the final design iteration was brought together.

The development work was certainly

would result in less maintenance and

Sigrist adds, “ThinManager helps

aided by the deployment of the

downtime, simplify the handling of the

the customer maintain the machine,

MagneMotion solution, as it can

cartridges to increase overall productivity

delivering an overview and access to all

switch into simulator mode, enabling us

and make processes more repeatable at

parameters from a centralised location.

to estimate cycle times before we

levels of higher quality.

It is especially useful where multiple HMIs

actually built the physical model, in

are involved. Using a centralised HMI

order to test the various functions and

ACCURACY, FLEXIBILITY, REPEATABILITY

server also aided us in the design and

machine speed.”

The MagneMotion system – using

control systems.”

precision rails – delivers outstanding

development of the interactivity and Overall control of the machine,

MODERN SOLUTION FOR TODAY’S NEEDS

accuracy and flexibility in automation

including the integration of third-party

This integrated automation and control

environments that require increased

Staubli robots, is handled by an Allen-

solution helps to reduce manual

speed and decreased downtime. Its

Bradley ControlLogix L8 programmable

interactions. Incredibly flexible, agile

multiple independent movers effectively

automation controller (PAC), with

and accurate, the solution also delivers

create a ‘pitchless’ conveyor system, the

an Allen-Bradley GuardLogix L7S

significantly higher throughput while

overall speed of which is not governed by

PAC delivering the necessary safety

boosting quality levels. The machine

the slowest process.

functionality.

can also be heavily modified with far less

“This solution smooths the entire

All primary communication is via

engineering effort than other solutions on

traffic flow by doubling – or in this case,

ethernet/IP, using Stratix 5400 and

the market. Indeed, engineers can now

tripling – on the slowest process, which

5700 switches.

be a lot more imaginative in their designs,

means the system is no longer held back

“The main reason for our deployment

knowing that automation solutions exist

by the slowest stage of the cartridge

of the Stratix-managed ethernet switches

assembly process,” explains Lauener.

was so the machine could be tightly

“With MagneMotion, all these factors

integrated into our customer’s network for

learned in this project and apply

can significantly increase speed, getting

security, safety and compliance reasons.

the answers and technologies to the

life-saving products to laboratories, both

It also fitted the customer’s requirements

processes, machines and solutions we

quickly and accurately.”

for converged plantwide ethernet,”

develop for this and the other markets we

Sigrist comments.

serve,” Lauener concludes. “We appreciate the support of Rockwell

engineer at Rychiger, adds: “Top of mind

CLEAN LINES AVOID CONTAMINATION

when we design and build machines

To counter the contamination challenge,

quick, comprehensive and accurate

is the ability to both scale and adapt/

the machine is enclosed – which keeps

results our customers have come to

upgrade the technology. Our wide

operators away from the cartridges. The

expect from our testing solution.” •

deployment of an integrated servo-based

enclosure is also ‘shadowless’, thanks

system – including the MagneMotion ICT

to an advanced lighting solution, which

solution – makes this significantly easier.

delivers well-lit visibility to all aspects of

It helps for maintenance too, as we

the internal elements for cleaning, and all

SCALABILITY AND ADAPTABILITY Christian Sigrist, senior automation

that can bring their ideas to life. “Our goal now is to take the lessons

The representative at company A adds: Automation and Rychiger, providing the

Rockwell Automation – www.rockwellautomation.com Rychiger – www.rychiger.ch/en

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2020 |

QUALITY ASSURANCE

Keep on track of auditing during COVID-19 In the pharma industry, audits are necessary to comply with regulations and ensure the quality of products. The understanding is that if manufacturing is continuing during COVID-19, so should a meaningful programme of audits. With PharmaLex’s virtual audits, quality assurance programmes can continue without the need to be physically present at the auditee’s facility.

he pandemic has created an

systems and procedures can be suitably

unprecedented challenge for

challenged in a manner equivalent to a

a. opening meeting through video

pharma companies, thrusting them

traditional site-based audit, PharmaLex had

b. a uditing of the quality management

into an unforeseen scenario where

conferencing

commenced the development of alternative

system using documents that have

they must manage competing priorities

strategies for auditing, including desk-based

been provided in the shared document

to protect patients and their personnel. As

and virtual auditing.

repository and through conversations with

companies strive to manage and maintain

SMEs over video conferencing platforms

their supply chains to minimise patient

A LOOK AT THE PROCESS

impact, they are required to restrict travel

As the pandemic has changed the

and follow government directives to limit

landscape in terms of how we engage with

social contact.

one another, whilst continuing to provide

In the pharmaceutical industry there

patients with the therapies they depend

selected by the auditee or client c. virtual tour of the facility, if required, using cameras, virtual reality or alternative suitable methods d. feedback at the end of each day

is an emphasis on robust supplier quality

on, PharmaLex can assist clients with virtual

and closing meeting through video

management. Proactive auditing plays

audits that will keep the audit programme

conferencing with all relevant

a key role in ensuring suppliers and

on track. The PharmaLex virtual auditing

contracted organisations continue to s

model includes the following elements:

• reporting and CAPA

upply goods and services that are fit for

• risk assessment

a. PharmaLex will provide a written report

use, meet the required GMP standard and

a. facilitate or perform a risk assessment

stakeholders

detailing the observations made,

maintain terms of quality and technical

to assess the risk to the supplier

classified according to risk, and

agreements. But how can these activities

management programme if the audit is

suggested remediation actions for

be maintained in the current situation,

delayed or postponed

whilst managing the real risk of COVID-19

b. i f the risk of postponement is high,

transmission? For many companies,

facilitate an assessment of virtual

postponement of audits for an indefinite

audit feasibility

period of time is not a viable option. Effective oversight of suppliers must

the virtual audit, PharmaLex can support

a. agree on the audit agenda with

a follow-up, on-site visit to the auditee

the client and auditee with particular

constraints that will arise if audits are

emphasis on how the audit will

completed in a short time frame after COVID-19 restrictions are lifted.

ALTERNATIVE STRATEGIES FOR AUDITING Because we live in the age of technology, there are a range of solutions at the disposal

implementation of audit CAPAs c. if required and recommended following

• preparation for the audit

continue in addition to the resource postponed and suddenly need to be

each observation b. PharmaLex can support with the

be performed b. i dentify the appropriate technology

when COVID-19 restrictions are lifted.

ADDITIONAL SUPPORT PharmaLex is equipped to support clients

for opening and closing meetings,

with any type of audit and has successfully

sharing documents and discussing

used its virtual auditing model for audits

topics with SMEs

of suppliers, contract manufacturing

c. identify the information the auditors will require in advance for remote review

or laboratory organisations, and mock regulatory inspection audits. The company

d. develop a questionnaire for provision

can also support internal self-inspection

of the pharma industry which may assist in

to the auditee to capture pertinent

audits for those organisations that may

fulfilling the obligation to maintain quality

information in one location that will

require additional assistance during this

oversight of all suppliers and service

help set the scene for the audit, e.g.

challenging time. •

providers. Prior to COVID-19 and in order to

organisational structure, certifications

reduce the requirement for extensive travel but still provide an environment where

| QUARTER 2 2020 | P C Africa

and facility description • virtual audit

PharmaLex – www.pharmalex.com

From one

QUALITY ASSURANCE

brave team to anotherâ&#x20AC;Ś Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential essential serv services ices for keeping keeping tthe for he machines run running machines ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 shutdown. the

You are the unsung heroes!

Our #PurplePeople salute you!

New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa

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