Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q3 2018

AFRICA

Quarter 3 2018 | Volume 3 | Number 3

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za

In tune with your science

Water purification solutions for production, QC & research

Modern lab equipment for

success in science

Ingredients at the forefront of African skin care

Colours, trends and aromas that influence perfumery

“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com

”

Quarter 3 2018 | Volume 3 | Number 3

AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS 6

NEWS

21 PACKAGING

EcoVadis awards Azelis with a Gold rating

Packaging expo connects Kenya to global markets

A robotic approach to Unilever’s end of line requirements

Big data drives developments in African healthcare

Design and printing advice for cosmetics labels

9 PHARMA FOCUS: LAB

EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

New laboratory solutions from Bosch

Novel discovery to standardise antibiotic susceptibility testing

Syringe pumps for R&D environments

13 SKIN CARE

Get great formulation textures with Cithrol PGTL

Top tips on how to customise for African consumers

Over 200 Halal compliant skin and hair care ingredients

A sustainable, cost-effective Lanolin alternative

Address pigmentation with spikenard extract

Sensitive skin – a growing problem in Africa

24 TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS

Door systems and docking solutions

go the distance

16

36 FRAGRANCES

African ingredients for consumer relevant fragrance creations

Innovative aroma molecules inspired by superfruits

in-cosmetics Latin America indulges the senses

Breakthrough in standardising antibiotic susceptibility testing

A sustainable and modern alternative to Lanolin

10

Simplify the step from R&D to production 9

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

3

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

The power of

partnerships M ore than 85 percent of the raw

driest skin in the world and that skin whitening

materials and packaging used

remains the most popular Google search

in Africa’s personal and home

term among them. Based on these trends,

care industries is imported.

we’ve featured a series of solutions for African

Manufacturers rely heavily on suppliers based

skin care, such as a PEG-free w/o emulsifier

in India and the Far East to meet their needs

that helps the formulator get creative with

for cost-effective, quality products with full

textures, over 200 Halal certified ingredients,

traceability. Yet these suppliers rarely deliver

a cost-effective alternative to Lanolin and

on their promises leaving manufacturers

the proven benefit of a spikenard extract in

to deal with inferior product quality issues,

reducing pigmentation.

labelling and content inconsistencies and

If you’re looking for tips and developments

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Contributors: Dr Alison Halliday, Dr Fernando Ibarra, Karen Maier Layout & Design: David Kyslinger ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

extended lead times. These challenges

in packaging, robotic end of line equipment

alone present immense opportunity for

or how to make your products pop with

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

international suppliers and those based in

advanced options for labelling – don’t miss

CIRCULATION

South Africa to grow their African footprints.

our feature on page 21.

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za

The trick is to develop regional partners in

The section on fragrances on page 26 is

east or west Africa or in South Africa to bring

filled with inspirational ideas from leading

PUBLISHING TEAM

your products to manufacturers in Africa.

global fragrance houses. Using African

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

ingredients and a palette of bright and

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

Elga LabWater is one international supplier that utilises its South African partner well.

warm colours, perfumers can develop

Working with Labotec, the company provides

specific concepts or tailor make fragrance

laboratories throughout southern Africa

creations that meet consumers’ needs for

with water purification systems for pure and

coherence and individuality

ultrapure water. These systems contribute

in the products

to success in science, helping researchers

they purchase.

achieve accurate, reliable and reproducible results. This and other solutions to achieve

Enjoy the read!

scientific success in a laboratory setting are highlighted in our pharma focus on page 9.

African consumers’ needs are front and

Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

centre in our bumper skin care feature on

Bridget McCarney

page 13. Next to hair care, skin care is the

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

second fastest growing category in Africa.

John Psillos

It’s been proven African women have the

NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX Stability Testing Services.................................12........................www.botanichem.co.za ChemSystems...................................................14........................www.chemsystems.co.za CJP Chemicals.................................................17........................www.cjpchemicals.co.za Crest Chemicals...............................................15........................www.crestchem.co.za Croda................................................................5..........................www.crodapersonalcare.com Future Publishing Solutions.............................IBC......................www.saphex.co.za IMCD..................................................................20.......................www.imcdgroup.com Labotec/Elga LabWater..................................OFC....................www.labotec.co.za Natchem...........................................................27........................www.payanbertrand.com Omron...............................................................22.......................www.industrial.omron.co.za Pin Mao.............................................................25.......................www.pinmao.com.tw Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................19........................www.savannah.co.za Sensetek............................................................30.......................www.sensetek.biz Siyakha Imperial Printing.................................23.......................www.labelprint.co.za Symrise..............................................................IFC......................www.symrise.com Vital Health Foods............................................OBC....................www.vital.co.za

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved.

4

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

NEWS

Azelis secures a Gold rating from EcoVadis THE CSR PERFORMANCE of Azelis has been recognised with an EcoVadis Gold rating, putting the global distributor of personal care and food

for global supply chains using a CSR assessment methodology. This

CONNECTING THE WORLD TO KENYA

covers 180 purchasing categories, 150 countries and 21 CSR indicators.

THE INTERNATIONAL PLASTICS,

ingredients in the top one percent of distributors assessed by EcoVadis.

The independent ratings agency provides supplier sustainability ratings

The expo takes place annually

Printing and Packaging Exhibition

and is aimed at promoting a direct

obtaining an advanced rating for its CSR engagement and improving

(PPPEXPO) held from 4 to 6

business link between buyers

on its 2017 score of 60 points. The improvement was achieved in all four

September in Kenya showcased

and sellers.

categories, from business and labour practices to environment and

exhibitors from more than

sustainable procurement.

30 countries.

Company-wide, Azelis achieved a score of 68 from EcoVadis,

The trade show took place at the

Azelis is in the top two percent of suppliers in all categories.

Kenya, the gateway to the east African market, is fast emerging as a distribution and

Kenyatta International Convention

supply hub to the entire plastics,

evolving and improving annually. The accolade is an appraisal of the

Centre and is the only dedicated,

printing and packaging industry

group-wide efforts and commitments to instil the same high standards for

industry specific event in the East

in the east African region. The

performance across all regions in which the group operates. All teams

African region. It offered exhibitors

country has a market of about

and functions worked hard towards one goal and we will take a moment

an excellent platform to develop

33 million customers and is the

to celebrate this great achievement,’ says María Jesús Almenar Martin,

business alliances and showcase

only distributor of goods to other

head of Azelis group SHEQ and who leads CSR within the group.

their technological advances.

east African countries. These

Visitors could also interact directly

include Tanzania, Uganda,

to working with its partners to create value and grow together in a

with African traders from the east,

Ethiopia, Malawi, Nigeria and

sustainable way. As a global business, with operations across America,

central and South African region.

South Africa.

‘Obtaining the Gold rating confirms Azelis’ CSR performance is

Company CEO, Dr Hans Joachim Müller, adds: ‘Azelis is committed

Asia Pacific and EMEA, Azelis takes its responsibilities seriously, always

Africa is one of the world’s

The Mombasa seaport

looking for new ways to make a positive impact on society and minimise

fastest growing markets. As a

provides infrastructure for the

its footprint, whilst delivering the best possible products and services. A

result of the international interest,

largest source of incoming

positive rating from EcoVadis is not only essential to us but also to our

PPPEXPO Africa attracted thousands

products by sea freight from

partners, who often expect an independent and external review of our

of buyers and decision makers of all

the Middle East, Indian sub-

CSR performance.’

levels from various industries.

continent, Europe and Far East.

BOBST SHOWCASES ADVANCES IN FILM BARRIER APPLICATIONS MORE THAN 100 participants from Europe, the Middle East and Asia joined Bobst for a two day coating technology event in San Giorgio Monferrato, Italy. Two Bobst CO 8000 latest generation coating lines were presented showcasing their capabilities for different market segments.

Detlef Merklinger, coating product line head at Bobst Italia, illustrated the layout of the dedicated coating technology centre, which is currently under construction. The centre will house an innovative coating pilot line equipped with different process technologies and systems. ’We are committed to delivering value to our

Dow Consumer Solutions presented an overview of silicones for the coatings market in terms of application technologies. The company’s representatives spoke about

customers’ processes. This goes far beyond the

thermal silicone applications and processes and tackled

engineering of high performance machines. The aim

industry challenges such as down gauging of materials

of this event was not only to present two of our CO 8000

and silicone migration.

machines but also to bring together the strengths of

BOPP film manufacturer, Treofan shared information

leading companies in segments of the coating market,

relating to the evolution of coated films and their

which is projected for continuous growth and fast paced

functionality in preventing mineral oil contamination of

technological evolution,’ says Merklinger.

packaged products.

6

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

Olivier Lavaud, CEO of ITASA and Nanni Bertorelli, deputy manager of product line coating at Bobst

NEWS

Pharma could propel Africa into the forefront of healthcare THE FOURTH INDUSTRIAL Revolution

catalyst for quantum leaps in terms of

and neurological conditions,’ Miller

has a profound effect on the pharma

medical research,’ he said.

explained. For example, in 2001, Cipla

industry. As new technology assists

The theme for BRICS 2018 was

pioneered a fixed-dose antiretroviral

with earlier diagnoses, enhanced

‘BRICS in Africa: Cooperation with

(ARV) combination, reducing the cost

manufacturing capabilities and

developing countries for inclusive

of ARVs from US$12 500 annually

improved treatment plans by using

growth and shared prosperity in the

to less than US$1 per day. The cost

data to better understand patients’

Fourth Industrial Revolution’. Cipla was

of this medication has since been

strict quality standards of the World

needs. This is according to Cipla

one of the sponsors of the summit.

reduced to US$0.30 per day.

Health Organization.

South Africa’s CEO, Paul Miller, who

‘In partnership with Cipla India, we’ve

Paul Miller

Cipla is committed to manufacturing

In Africa, the Ugandan Cipla QCIL

spoke at the 10th BRICS summit,

been able to bring affordable healthcare

facility has manufactured the first

in Africa for Africa. The company has

which took place from 25 to 27 July in

to more South Africans, thereby

batch of a new powerful ARV medicine

invested in enhancing its Cipla Medpro

Johannesburg, South Africa.

increasing the number of patients on

for first line HIV treatment. According

Manufacturing plant in KwaZulu-Natal,

life-saving medication for therapeutic

to Miller, it is the only facility in Africa

South Africa significantly increasing its

areas such as HIV, oncology, respiratory

to produce this medicine under the

production capacity for ARVs.

‘Data will be the biggest driver behind changes in healthcare and the

NEW CLOSURES DIVISION RESPONDS TO MARKET GROWTH

Flexible pouch

now fully recyclable

DIVERSIFIED GLOBAL CHEMICALS manufacturer, SABIC recently

MONDI, IN COLLABORATION

launched a caps and closures division in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. It is

with Werner & Mertz, will introduce

set on addressing issues in a circular economy by using the latest

a new, patented 100 percent

materials and solutions in the closures market.

recyclable pouch with detachable

‘With our extensive range of polyethylenes and polypropylenes,

decorative panels in 2019. This

SABIC has built a strong position in the production of caps and

comes after almost four years

closures. The market is growing and changing all the time. We are

of development. The pouch will

moving quickly to respond to current and future developments,’ says

replace conventional flexible

Hans Pierik, SABIC’s global caps and closures segment leader.

packaging for Frosch, a home care

The company’s goal is to extend its application coverage across food and beverage and non-food areas alike. Its caps and closures

brand sold in the US and UK. The pioneering design

portfolio spans a number of polyethylenes (PE) and polypropylenes

overcomes many shortcomings of

(PP). SABIC also engineers polycarbonate plastic.

the recycling process.

the team worked its way through an ‘innovation funnel’.

‘We tested different materials

‘This year we will be adding more innovative materials, including a

In 2014, Werner & Mertz made a

new HDPE that makes it possible to cut weight in caps for carbonated

bold move to develop completely

concept” was conceived, which

soft drinks,’ Pierik adds.

recyclable packaging. This was

resonated with everyone at each

before most FMCG companies

point of the value chain.’

The company has developed a new multi-modal grade of HDPE with

until a “designed for recycling

excellent organoleptic properties. The SABIC HDPE CCX027C polymer

viewed a commitment to

combines excellent environmental stress cracking resistance (ESCR)

sustainability as an indispensable

related to sealing strength and

with good flow characteristics. This allows cap manufacturers to design

building block for brand equity.

maximum filling volume.

very lightweight closures. It also exhibits strong shear thinning. This

The design aim of the project was

means it has a relatively low MFI (0.8g per 10 minutes, 2.16kg). Its

to ‘reverse engineer’ the recycling

decorative panels was added to

flow characteristics during injection moulding are similar to those of a

process and create packaging

solve the issue of recycling printed

unimodal HDPE with an MFI more than three times higher.

fit for every stage of the recycling

plastic materials, giving the pouch

process. Sorting is a crucial and

a two layer finish. The outer layer is

often neglected step. Failure to

printed with the brand’s design on

sort the collected packaging into

the front and consumer information

material streams that recyclers can

at the back. When empty, the

use leads to down-cycling.

pouch is shredded and sorted into

SABIC has offices in Tunisia and Egypt.

The packaging also needed to be made of a polyethylene mono-material, which is a prerequisite for recycling.

Jens Kösters, manager of

SABIC’s headquarters in Riyadh

The concept offers clear benefits

The final touch of detachable

two components, which are sent to separate recycling streams.

The material is free from adhesive. Its spout and cap are also made of polyethylene, so the

technical services at Mondi

recycled material is equivalent in

Consumer Goods Packaging, says

quality to the original material.

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

7

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October

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CPhI Worldwide 9 to 11 October IFEMA, Feria de Madrid, Spain www.cphi.com

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in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 24 to 25 October summit.in-cosmetics.com London, UK

November

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| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

13 to 16 November Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

30 January to 1 February Makuhari Messe, Japan www.cosme-i.jp/en

PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services

Simplify the step from

R&D to production A key partner in pharma manufacturing, Bosch has launched laboratory equipment that offers the shortest route from development to continuous manufacturing with OSD forms. The company also provides formulation and analytical development services.

B

osch Packaging Technology

platform. The identical process parameters

(Bosch), a leading supplier of

can be directly transferred at a ratio of one

process and packaging technology,

to one, reducing development time. The

will showcase its laboratory expertise

customer also has the opportunity to move

for oral solid dosage (OSD) forms at CPhI

a product either to continuous production

worldwide in Madrid, from 9 to 11 October.

or conventional batch processing.

The new laboratory device, Xelum R&D for continuous manufacturing, will be on open

SUPPORT FROM FORMULATION

display for the first time.

Bosch’s laboratory portfolio supports

Bosch Pharma Service and Industry 4.0

customers in all development and

solutions will also be showcased in terms of

production phases of OSD forms. Roughly

how they support pharma manufacturers in

1 000 experiments with substances for

increasing the transparency and efficiency

various indications are conducted annually

of their laboratory processes.

at the company’s competence centre in

‘With our wide range of laboratory

1

Schopfheim, Germany.

solutions, we offer our customers an ideal starting point for a rapid time to market of their pharmaceutical products,’ says Fritz-Martin Scholz, product manager at the Bosch subsidiary, Hüttlin.

REDUCED DEVELOPMENT TIME The Xelum R&D offers pharma

EVERY PRODUCT DEVELOPED AT THE BOSCH LABORATORY IS TAILORED TO A CUSTOMER’S MACHINES

manufacturers an ideal start to continuous OSD production. ‘This is the first R&D

‘The key to achieving a fast time to market

machine to combine charging, dosing

while meeting the highest quality standards

of several ingredients and blending with

is extensive experience and know-how,’

granulation, drying and discharging in one

says Dr Marcus Knoell, head of pharma

unit,’ Scholz explains. In contrast to continual

service solid at Hüttlin. ‘We offer customers

mass flow, the Xelum R&D doses excipients

everything from a single source – from

and active ingredients as a discrete mass.

formulation and analytical development

In doing so, customers can dose even the

to stability testing, bioequivalence studies

smallest amount of APIs of less than one

and dossier compilation.’ With a specific

percent. Individual packages, the so-called

focus on scale-up and technology transfer,

X-keys, continuously run through the process

every product developed at the Bosch

chain and are removed successively from

laboratory is tailored to a customer’s

the machine as packages into bins.

machines, enabling them to manufacture

The X-key approach makes the product traceable at all times. It reduces

the product in-house.

the system’s failure susceptibility and

SEIZE THE DATA TREASURE

process complexity, while increasing the

At CPhI worldwide, Bosch will also

product’s accuracy and quality. Time

showcase its new data mining service,

consuming scale-up is not needed, since

which evaluates existing machine data

the laboratory device uses the same

to identify and eliminate the source

components as the Xelum production

of problems. ‘Machine deviations are

2 1 The Xelum R&D from Bosch, for the production of OSD forms, ensures a shorter time to market and optimum dosing of the smallest amounts of APIs 2 With the Xelum R&D, Bosch gives pharma manufacturers an ideal start to continuous manufacturing

often classified as “human error” due to misinterpretation or missing information,’ explains Dr Marc Michaelis, expert for continuous production and process verification at Hüttlin. ‘Yet, we assume this is true for no more than 10 percent.’

Bosch’s new data mining tool makes it possible to examine large amounts of data for the smallest effects using statistical methods. ‘This way we can recognise hidden connections and eliminate the cause of failure. Large investments are not required. What it takes is technical expertise and extensive process know-how,’ he adds. ‘Our experts can support pharma manufacturers all over the world to make the most of their existing data.’ •

Bosch Packaging Technology – www.boschpackaging.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

9

PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services

Breakthrough in standardising

antibiotic susceptibility testing A new study makes recommendations for combining two different methods to test bacterial susceptibility of antibiotics. These suggestions could help improve reproducibility between laboratories and provide more clinically relevant information for treating infections. By Dr Alison Halliday

E

very day, thousands of experimental

growth and even more crucial, MIC testing

and diagnostic laboratories around

is not good at predicting the antibiotic’s

the world carry out antimicrobial

actual effectiveness within the body.

susceptibility testing in search

of an effective antibiotic to use against

A KILLER CONCENTRATION

a bacterial strain. Yet results can vary

Another measure is to define an antibiotic’s

widely between laboratories, prompting

minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC),

the need for standardised protocols to

which outlines the lowest concentration

improve reproducibility and reliability of

needed to kill the bacteria.

ASSESSING BOTH THE MBC AND MIC MAY BE A MORE USEFUL STRATEGY TO DETERMINE THE CLINICAL RELEVANCE OF AN ANTIBIOTIC

This is especially important for patients with inflammatory diseases or who are immunocompromised. Their immune systems may not be working well enough to fully eliminate the pathogens, should an antibiotic only inhibit their growth.

To determine the MBC, a test is done

results. One of the main techniques used

to ascertain the lowest concentration of

by laboratories is to measure the minimum

an antibiotic that reduces the number of

inhibitory concentration (MIC).

bacterial colonies on a subculture by

This gauges the lowest antibiotic concentration that inhibits the visible

99.9 percent.

However, this test attracts criticism

Elga LabWater’s Purelab flex system is ideal for research laboratories, both technically and aesthetically

variables include the size of the

growth of a microorganism after

due to its poor reproducibility between

inoculum, sample mixing and growth

incubation for 16 to 20 hours. The MIC test

laboratories. MBC testing involves broth

phase of the bacteria.

has limitations. It doesn’t reveal whether

dilution and re-growth of bacteria in

the drug kills the bacteria, or just halts its

antibiotic-free media. The potential

A MERGED APPROACH Assessing both the MBC and MIC may be a more useful strategy to determine the clinical relevance of an antibiotic.

A new study, published in the Journal of Microbiological Methods, carried out an objective, detailed comparison of a range of different methodologies to determine the MIC and MBC1.

The researchers tested two bacterial strains, P.aeruginosa PA01 and E.coli ATCC 25922, against four antibiotics: 1. gentamicin 2. tobramycin 3. ciprofloxacin 4. colistin.

They also tested S.aureus against vancomycin.

Preparation and sample analysis protocol involved the use of ultrapure water purified using Purelab Flex apparatus from Elga LabWater.

The team determined the MIC using broth microdilution, a calorimetric method

10

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services

TRUSTED BY SCIENTISTS across different

REFERENCE:

LABORATORIES AROUND THE world trust lab water

laboratories,

purification systems from Elga LabWater to help their

including a suggested

researchers achieve accurate, reliable results. A specialist in

standardisation of the

approach. Journal of Microbiological Methods 144

lab water, the company has been working with scientists since

time point for reading

(2018), page 177 to 185.

1937 to guarantee pure and ultrapure water for experiments

MIC results after

and lab work. Labotec is the local agent for Elga LabWater,

20 hours.

supplying its water purification systems to customers throughout southern Africa.

This innovative and important study proposes new

and a microscopy-based screening

recommendations

1. Klodzinska et al. Combining diagnostic methods for antimicrobial susceptibility testing – a comparative

ABOUT After completing an undergraduate degree in biochemistry and genetics at Sheffield University (UK), Dr Halliday was awarded a PhD in human molecular genetics at the University of Newcastle (UK).

As a University College London senior postdoctoral research fellow, Dr Halliday investigated the genes involved in a childhood obesity syndrome. She then went on to work at Cancer Research UK for 10 years and currently specialises in writing about research in the life sciences, medicines and healthcare sectors.

Buyer’sguide for the best methods to assess

used to determine the MBC and

which antibiotics are effective

subsequently compared with the

against a bacterial strain.

THE

system. Flurophore staining was

broth regrowth method.

These methods will help improve

NEW RECOMMENDATIONS

reproducibility across laboratories,

gain more clinically relevant data and

After evaluating the results, the

enable a better understanding of the

researchers recommended

action of antibiotic drugs.

different combinations of methods

To find out more about laboratory

to determine the MIC and MBC,

water purification systems for your

depending on whether time, cost or

research needs visit www.labotec.co.za,

sensitivity is the main priority.

Elga LabWater’s approved partner in

They also emphasised the importance of uniform protocols

South Africa. For more useful articles, visit www.elgalabwater.com. •

2017/2018

THE

Buyer’sguide 2018/2019

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

11

PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services

Syringe pumps based on accuracy and precision

Built for automation in research laboratories, modern syringe pumps are ideal for applications ranging from simple infusions to complex pumping programmes. DG Lab Services reveals how these novel lab tools have evolved over the years.

S

yringe pumps have been used for

pumps for research purposes and

more than 50 years by scientists

patient safety.

and researchers to save lives and conduct high impact research.

VALUE FOR MONEY

They are used to control the flow of fluid

DG Lab Services is a distributor

with a high level of precision.

of the New Era range of

Researchers originally developed

The New Era range of syringe, peristaltic and infusion pumps and accessories for research facilities

syringe, peristaltic and infusion

infusion pumps for controlled drug delivery.

pumps and accessories for research facilities. These

RESEARCH SYRINGE PUMPS ARE USED IN R&D LABORATORIES IN MICROFLUIDICS, CHEMICAL DEVELOPMENT AND MASS SPECTROMETRY

pumps and accessories are available throughout the African market. The company recently sold laboratory equipment to customers in the Seychelles, Botswana and Zambia and is dealing with queries from Namibia.

The first infusion pump was invented by

There are two broad types of syringe

spectrometry where smaller volumes, in the region of nanolitre accuracy, are

Christopher Wren in 1658. According to

pumps, including medical infusion

required. These pumps offer excellent

DG Lab Services, further developments

pumps and research syringe pumps.

value by delivering high end features

continued only in the 20 th century,

Medical infusion pumps are used to

at an affordable price. Their features

progressing from an infusion pump for use

deliver controlled quantities of fluids such

include infusion and withdrawal, a

in chemotherapy to computerised pumps

as nutrients, drugs and blood to patients

computer interface and advanced

and pump miniaturisation – increasing the

where safety is key in order to prevent

programming options. •

use of infusion pumps in research.

any harm or injury. Research syringe

The early 21st century saw the

pumps are used in R&D laboratories

development of smart pumps, which

in applications such as microfluidics,

resulted in increased versatility of these

chemical development and mass

DG Lab Services – www.dglabservices.com

Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, offers a well equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure your product maintains its intended physical, chemical & microbiological quality.

We offer: • Stability Testing • Regulatory Labelling • Formulation • Product Information Files for Export FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT ROBYN OR LINA. 011 425 2206 OR 011 425 2648 info@botanichem.co.za / lina@botanichem.co.za

12

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

SKIN CARE

Break the mould with

unexpected textures Recognising the demand for skin care products with great textures, Cithrol PGTL – Croda’s new w/o emulsifier – helps formulators include unique sensory benefits in their formulations.

C

ithrol PGTL offers outstanding

that impart a light, non-oily skin feel.

efficiency and versatility. This

Additional applications include more

high-performance system

fluid, sprayable formulations; traditional

is a great alternative to

thick, rich creams and colour cosmetics,

traditional PEG-based systems. It allows

such as foundations.

formulators to unleash their creativity by

To demonstrate the versatility of Cithrol

including unexpected sensory benefits

PGTL, Croda South Africa developed

in formulations. It also contributes

a fresh burst face cream, offering skin

to reduced environmental impact

a new lease on life. Cithrol PGTL is

as it can be formulated using a

used as the w/o emulsifier to create a

cold process.

quick break, refreshing gel cream

Water in oil (w/o)

DID YOU KNOW?

formulations have many advantages, such as greater wear resistance, a richer skin feel and the improved deposition of actives. Yet formulating these emulsions can have

formulation. Hydrating Meiritage protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by

While mass brands dominate the skin care category in Nigeria, Euromonitor International predicts premium products will perform well in 2019. The development of niche areas such as face masks and nourishers is fuelling interest among higher income consumers.

UV and pollution while Phytessence Peach Flower offers urban shield benefits to fight against pollution. See Table 1 for the formulation guide.

MILD AND SUSTAINABLE

certain drawbacks.

For example, there may

Cithrol PGTL takes into account

water. In a panel study, Croda assessed the mildness of Cithrol PGTL at a three percent concentration versus other w/o emulsifiers.

When comparing the mildness of

be difficulty in achieving stable, thick,

several burning issues, including

Cithrol PGTL to other w/o emulsifiers in a

fluid-like and low viscosity formulations

sustainability, skin sensitivity and

simple emulsion, there was no significant

with a light skin feel. However, with Cithrol

environmental impact. It is 100

difference to the control.

PGTL formulators can overcome these

percent bio-based; manufactured

challenges – and thanks to its flowable

without ethoxylates, propoxylates or

and showed significantly less skin

format, it’s easy to use. Cithrol PGTL is

PEG and cold processable (though

erythema and protein content (skin

effective at low usage levels and doesn’t

this is formulation dependant).

flaking) to that of the water control. •

require the addition of a co-emulsifier.

A VERSATILE SYSTEM It’s a common misconception that w/o emulsions are always thick, heavy and sticky. With Cithrol PGTL, the formulator can get creative and experiment with a large variety

The mildness of the system has also been proven to be comparable to

This high performance

Phase A

B

system is ideal for creating cost-effective high internal phase (HIP) emulsions

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

Table 1: Fresh Burst Face Cream ZA0068

of formulation types and sensorial textures.

Cithrol PGTL had comparable mildness

C

Ingredient/INCI Name

% w/w

Water Deionised (Aqua)

81.20

Pricerine 9091 (Glycerin)

4.20

Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate

0.80

Crodamol DA (Diisopropyl Adipate)

3.00

Crodamol OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)

2.50

Crodamol EO (Ethyl Oleate)

2.50

Cithrol PGTL (Tri (Polglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate)

1.00

Meiritage (Glycerin (and) Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract (and) Atractyloides Macrocephala Root Extract (and) Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract)

3.00

Phytessence Peach Flower (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Prunus Persica (Peach) Flower Extract)

1.00

Euxyl PE 9010 (Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol)

0.80

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

13

SKIN CARE

Changing the

face of beauty

Innovative ingredients are the route to effective product customisation. Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials in South Africa, shares ideas to help formulators better meet the hair and skin care needs of the diverse African market.

B

rands are seeing people as

anti-oxidant properties will not only

effective and completely natural way to

individuals with individual needs,

protect against the ravages of pollution

soothe an irritated scalp. Produced using

driving customisation in the

and UV exposure but also address the

a natural Bisabolol, this product is twice

cosmetics industry. While new

issue of hyperpigmentation. Gone are the

as effective as its synthetic equivalents

days when women with darker skin felt

on the market, guaranteeing twice the

products are being formulated to cater to this trend, it’s important to recognise the differences in the skin of diverse Ethnic groups. People with a specific skin tone have common concerns that formulators should address when

DID YOU KNOW?

pressured to bleach their skin a lighter

impact when it comes to reducing redness,

shade using harsh chemicals. With

soothing inflammation and irritation and

a modern skin brightening active

protecting the scalp against external

In a skin lightening comparison like Emblica, women can safely test between Emblica, MAP and and gently even out their skin Kojic acid, Emblica was proven efficient for different Ethnic skins. At tone. With its excellent skin one percent, it produced similar or lightening properties, it has superior skin lightening effects been proven to safely bring than achieved with two percent Kojic acid or three about a significant reduction percent MAP.

aggressors. To address dandruff and a flaking scalp, RonaCare Salicylic Acid and RonaCare Allantoin are the go-to ingredients. They gently exfoliate and soften the scalp while dispersing existing flakes offering relief and enhanced beauty with

in pigmentation. Due to its strong

developing

no unsightly skin shedding.

anti-oxidant properties, Emblica also prevents the re-occurrence of UV induced

TO CARE AND PROTECT

dark spots. Hydration is another important

While there are many singularities when

set of unique challenges, such as hyper

topic in Ethnic skin care. The multi-

it comes to different skin and hair types, we

pigmentation, greater sensitivity to UVA and

talented RonaCare Ectoin provides just

are more similar than we are

ambient light, a compromised skin barrier

the right amount of long lasting hydration

that can lead to transepidermal water

and protection.

new products.

Darker or Ethnic skin types have their own

to consider these issues when selecting

CALM AND NOURISH

different and the basics should never Chemsystems, Consumer Spe Chemsystems, Consumer trusted distributor and localSpe ma be overlooked. trusted distributor and local main and commodity raw materials Whatever the skin tone; need for UV and raw materials in and commodity Homecare industry offering and Homecare protection, moisture retention and deep industry offering

ingredients for Ethnic skin care formulations.

Emblica is not only good for skin but also

•• Glycerine cleansing, caring for stressed and sensitive Propylene Glycol

loss and atopic dermatitis. It’s important

• Glycerine

•• Antiperspirant Propylene Glycol Actives nourishes and strengthens hair from root skin in our modern, mostly polluted •• Antiperspirant Emulsifiers Actives • Emulsifiers • Emollients EVEN TONE, HYDRATED SKIN to tip. When combined with RonaCare environment should remain the main priority Esters Chemsystems, Consumer Consumer Specialities Specialities division, division, is is a •• Emollients One approach is to use a multi-functional Nicotinamide, the complexChemsystems, improves hair of the cosmetics industry.a• •• Esters Modifiers trusted distributor distributor and and local local manufacturer manufacturer of of speciality speciality• Rheology trusted Rheology Modifiers Polymers active ingredient like Emblica. This 100 quality and assists in damage andrecovery. commodity raw raw materials materials into into the the Personal Personal Care Care •• Hair Hair Polymers and commodity • Proteins “OurMerck expertise, your solution” – www.merck4cosmetics.com and Homecare industry offering: Proteins “Ouroffering: expertise, your solution” percent natural extract with its cascading RonaCare Bisabolol offers aand particularly •• Emulsifying Waxes Homecare industry • EmulsifyingActives Waxes Chemsystems, Specialities• Sunscreen division, is a • Glycerine • Range Consumer of Surfactants • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Sunscreen Actives Chemsystems, Consumer division, is a • Silicones and • Propylene Glycol trusted •distributor and localSpecialities manufacturer of speciality Silicones and • Propylene Glycol distributor and local manufacturer of speciality • Antiperspirant Activestrusted Silicone additives commodity materials into the Personal Care • Antiperspirant Activesand Siliconeraw additives and raw materials into the Personal Care • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides and commodity Homecare industry offering: • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides and Homecare industry offering: • Emollients • Conditioning agents • Emollients • Conditioning agents • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Esters • Concentrated • Glycerine •• Range of and Surfactants • Esters • Concentrated Silicones Glycol • Rheology Modifiers •• Propylene blends such as body • Silicones and Propylene Glycol Thureya Sarlie • Rheology Modifiers • Antiperspirant blends such as body Actives Silicone additives • Hair Polymers lotions, conditioners, Thureya Sarlie • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is aPolymers • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides • Hair lotions, Tel +27 (0)11conditioners, 922 1636 • Proteins antiperspirants etc. Conditioning agents “Our expertise, expertise, your your solution” solution” •• Emulsifiers Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Emollients • Proteins antiperspirants etc.•• Preservatives/Biocides “Our trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Emulsifying Waxes •• Emollients • Botanicals •• Conditioning Esters Concentratedagents Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Emulsifying Waxes • Botanicals and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care •• Esters • Concentrated • Sunscreen Actives • Actives Rheology Modifiers blends such as body Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, isActives a • Sunscreen • Actives

Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is a and Homecare industry offering: trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality

trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality “Our expertise, your solution” and commodity commodity raw raw materials into the the Personal Personal Care • Glycerine and • Range of Surfactants “Our expertise, your solution” materials into Care and Homecare industry offering: • Propylene Glycol • Silicones and and Homecare industry offering: • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Range of Surfactants • Emulsifiers •• Glycerine Propylene Glycol • Preservatives/Biocides • Silicones and Glycol • Silicones and • Emollients •• Propylene • Conditioning agents Thureya Sarlie Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives Thureya Sarlie • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives • Esters • 922 Concentrated • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides Tel +27 (0)11 1636 • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 blends such as body agents • Rheology Modifiers • Emollients • Conditioning Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Emollients • Conditioning agents Email • Concentrated • Esters • Hair Polymers lotions, conditioners, • Concentrated • Esters • Rheology Modifiers blends such as body • Proteins • Rheology Modifiers antiperspirants “Our expertise, your solution” blendsetc. such as body Shonna Twynham Hair Polymers lotions, conditioners, • Botanicalslotions, • Emulsifying••Waxes Shonna Twynham Hair Polymers conditioners, • Proteins antiperspirants etc.

“Our expertise, expertise, your your solution” solution” Tel +27 +27 (0)11 (0)11• 922 922 1600 1600antiperspirants • Sunscreen Actives • aProteins etc.

Chemsystems, “Our Consumer Specialities division, isActives Tel • Emulsifying Waxes

•• Rheology Modifiers blends as body Shonna Twynham Hair Polymers lotions, such conditioners, Shonna Twynham •• Hair conditioners, Proteins antiperspirants etc.

TelPolymers +27 (0)11 922 1600lotions, •• Proteins etc. Sarlie Tel +27shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za (0)11 Emulsifying Waxes 922 1600 • antiperspirants Botanicals Thureya Johannesburg Email •• Emulsifying Waxes •• Actives Botanicals Sunscreen Actives Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Email shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za • Sunscreen Actives • Actives

• Botanicals

Email shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za • Emulsifying Waxes • Botanicals trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality Email • Sunscreen Actives • Actives • Sunscreen Actives • Actives and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care and Homecare industry offering: • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Propylene Glycol • Silicones and Thureya Sarlie • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives • Emulsifiers Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 | P C Africa 14 | QUARTER 3 2018 • Preservatives/Biocides • Emollients • Conditioning agents Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Esters • Concentrated • Rheology Modifiers blends such as body

Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie

+27 (0)11 922 1636 AECI Chempark, 200Tel Bergrivier Drive, Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624

Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie

Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 AECI Chempark, Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, AECI 200 Bergrivier Drive, Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Chloorkop, Kempton Park, Park, 1624 Chloorkop, Kempton Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, 1624 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624 Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624

www.chemsystems.co.za www.chemsystems.co.za Chemsystems, a division of AECI

Chemsystems, aa division division of of AECI AECI Chemsystems,

• Ran •• Ran Silic • Silic Silic • Silic Pres •• Pres Con •• Con Con • Con blen blen lotio lotio antip • antip Bota •• Activ Bota • Activ

Email thu thu Email

AECI C AECI C

AE AE Ch Ch 16 Che 16 Che

w w

SKIN CARE

Halal ingredients from Symrise Are you looking for Halal ingredients for your skin care formulations? Symrise produces more than 200 products that comply with Islamic law.

A

s a global supplier of

assist with antimicrobial product and skin

cosmetics ingredients,

protection. These Frescolat products mostly

ingredients includes actives, emollients,

Symrise understands the

offer multifunctional benefits. Hydrolite 5

solubilisers, UV filters and plant extracts all

specific requirements of

green improves the look, consistency and

with HALAL certification. Due to the globally

the Islamic population and provides a

protects a formulation while SymClariol is

sustained growth of the Muslim population,

comprehensive palette of Halal certified

a multifunctional ingredient suited to oily

the demand for products made in line with

products. Its manufacturing facilities

scalp and anti-dandruff applications.

Islamic regulations will continue to be in

in Singapore and its headquarters in Holzminden, Germany comply with

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Halal guidelines.

The company produces high performance

Symrise offers more than compliant 200

Symrise’s extensive range of cosmetics

greater demand. In response, Symrise is constantly working to expand its range of Halal products. •

actives proven to care and protect the

products, which meet the personal care

skin against the visible signs of ageing.

needs of Muslim consumers.

They also meet market demands in

Symrise – www.symrise.com

terms of sensitive skin, protection against

FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS

environmental pollution and address

With its extensive product range, Symrise

skin pigmentation or oily skin. SymCalmin

offers a great variety of ingredients for

calms skin irritations and soothes redness,

skin and hair care applications. The

which can occur due to the build-up of

Frescolat range of ingredients provides

sweat. The SymHair range is for hair care

cooling and refreshing benefits. In the

products. These ingredients protect hair

established micro protection category,

from dust and breakage and improve

Symrise offers a full set of ingredients to

shine and combability.

Crest Chemicals

Your Trusted Advisor PG USP applications Aerosols Shaving Products Haircare Skincare Oral-care Pharmaceutical Cosmetic 2 year shelf life Inherent Antimicrobial properties Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981

BETTER TOGETHER P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

15

SKIN CARE

A sustainable and modern alternative to Lanolin

Softisan 649 embraces all three pillars of sustainability. Although not fully natural, this competitive raw material is a market leading substitute for animal-derived Lanolin.

Dr Fernando Ibarra, personal care business director at IOI Oleo reveals why.

S

ustainability and raw materials

from various plants. The raw material is

of natural origin dominate

manufactured in Germany according to

cosmetics industry trends. While

Pharma GMP and RSPO SCCS standards.

consumers often confuse the

A 100 percent natural claim is not

underlying meaning of sustainability

recommended for this product because

with a superficial idea of plant derived

one of the starting raw materials makes

ingredients, business leaders in various

Softisan only 85 percent natural. Yet this

industries have adopted a more holistic

doesn’t mean it’s not a green product.

approach. In sustainability, ecological, economic and social aspects are inclusive. These three pillars need to be viewed in unison to achieve the true meaning of sustainability.

Interpreted in the realistic world of cosmetics manufacturing, formulators’ sustainability efforts are usually

EVERY FORMULATOR KNOWS THERE IS A PRICE TO PAY FOR ECOLOGICAL SUSTAINABILITY

one directional, including as many vegetable based ingredients as possible

According to ISO 16128, it is considered

generated through the sheep’s

on a label and often neglecting the three

a naturally derived ingredient. The only

overexposure to pollution, sun and

pillars. This is because, although the

non-vegetable part in the complex

other harsh environmental conditions.

three parts are connected, sometimes

structure is Adipic Acid, which is easily

Considering the three sustainability

they are conflicting. Every formulator

found in nature, but not in quantities that

pillars, the potential risks linked to

knows there is a price to pay for

permit viable commercial extraction. To

exposing consumers to these undesirable

ecological sustainability, especially when

produce Softisan 649, we use a nature-

chemicals should be avoided. This not

focussing on primarily vegetable based

identical Adipic Acid (produced from a

only respects the social pillar but also the

raw materials, fair trade ingredients

petrochemical source) and other fully

ecological one.

or RSPO certified palm oil derivatives.

natural starting materials.

This could jeopardise the economic

IOI Oleo, a CJP Chemicals principle,

In the refining process, raw Lanolin is cleaned and the residues supposedly

sustainability of a business due to the

originally launched Softisan 649 as a

removed. Yet the product (see Figure

high prices of raw materials.

substitute for animal-derived Lanolin

1) has an undesirable appearance

because it mimics Lanolin’s excellent

and odour profile. Although very good

Polyacyladipate-2) is well suited to the

skin protection, moisturising and film-

qualities of USP grade Lanolin are

three pillars. It has been the global

forming benefits.

available on the market, it comes at a

Softisan 649 (INCI: Bis-Diglyceryl

cosmetics industry’s most popular

Lanolin is a 100 percent natural product

steeply fluctuating price. This results in

Lanolin-replacer for many years but it

derived from sheep’s wool. Although

an expensive end product, which is not

is not a 100 percent plant derived raw

the animals are not harmed during

sustainable in the long run.

material. It was originally developed

production, most consumers prefer not

as a speciality ingredient and didn’t

to use animal derived products on their

specifically follow the green trend. Yet it

skin. Instead, they prefer vegetable

QUALITY MEETS FUNCTIONALITY

fits in perfectly with the demand for safe,

derived ingredients, sometimes even

Developments in the Lanolin market

high quality and sustainable ingredients,

certified vegan. The extraction process

in recent years have highlighted the

which are competitive.

and nature of Lanolin’s origin results in

importance of economic sustainability.

production issues. While the sheep’s wool

Following concerns about Lanolin

is cleaned of any dirt, the raw Lanolin

contamination, the demand for better

is collected. This heavily contaminated

quality has increased and so has the price.

NOT FULLY NATURAL BUT TRULY SUSTAINABLE Softisan 649 is largely based on vegetable derived ingredients sourced

16

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

product contains natural residues and a host of undesirable chemicals

Although Softisan 649 is produced using pharma GMP and is sold in the

SKIN CARE Figure 1:

Figure 2:

The associated claims of Softisan 649 include skin protection, moisturisation, wear resistance and substantivity in lipsticks or sun care products. It also offers film-forming and texturising Comparison between vegetable based Softisan 649 (left) and a commercially available cosmetic grade of animal-derived Lanolin (right). Note the significant difference in colour between the two raw materials which is caused by the natural and environmental contaminants that regularly occur in Lanolin

A cream with five percent Softisan 649 (left) and the same formulation with five percent of a commercially available cosmetic grade Lanolin (right). A yellowish discolouration is visible in the cream containing Lanolin

benefits when used in hair styling products. Because the raw material is multifunctional, it helps manufacturers reduce their inventory of ingredients – once again making it truly sustainable for pharma and cosmetics products. •

pharma industry, its price as a high

The mildness and excellent skin

quality cosmetics ingredient remains

compatibility of Softisan 649 has

unaffected. Stable and competitive

led to its use in many pharma

pricing with no risk of contamination,

applications, including wound

Softisan 649 has been used in

dressings. As a protective film

various applications as a Lanolin

former, it is a suitable ingredient for

replacement. This is because Lanolin’s

ointments that address problematic

strong odour profile and stark yellow

skin. It can also be formulated in

appearance are a strong deterrent

various protective creams and is

from a formulator’s perspective.

mild enough for sensitive skins and

While a white and non-odorous final

baby products. The versatility and

product is desired, the formulator has

potential of Softisan 649 is proven

to compromise on the final product’s

by its use in thousands of products

appearance, which is slightly off white

already on the market, ranging from

to yellow when formulating with Lanolin

skin care to colour cosmetics and

(see Figure 2).

hair care products.

WE CARE

CJP Chemicals – www.cjp.co.za IOI Oleo – www.ioioleo.de

ABOUT Fernando Ibarra has a PhD in organic chemistry from the University of Hamburg. He first worked in nanotechnology and the pharma industry, after which he made the move to personal care more than 10 years ago. Ibarra joined IOI Oleo in 2014 in his current role of business director.

BEAUTY

SOFTISAN® 649 THE VEGAN ALTERNATIVE FOR LANOLIN

FILM FORMING AND MOISTURIZING FROM VEGETABLE SOURCES, NON-ANIMAL DERIVED NO SMELL, NO COLOR, NO CONTAMINATION A 100% CLEAN PRODUCT FOR MODERN PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS

IOI Oleo GmbH

PERSONAL CARE

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

17

SKIN CARE

A treasure chest of beneficial plants

Lipotec has developed novel skin care extracts from three plants found in the Asia-Pacific region. The extracts of lemon myrtle, spikenard and artemisia respectively showed antiinflammatory, brightening and antimicrobial benefits. Each extract has been titrated and is supported by in vitro efficacy test data.

A

ctismart lemon myrtle, an extract of the Backhousia citridora plant native to Australia,

is well documented for its use in aboriginal traditional medicine.

It is characterised by quercitrin, a glycoside of the quercetin flavonoid.

The extract has shown to act on different molecular mechanisms that lead to inflammation and sensitive skin. A key element of inflammatory

Lemon myrtle (Backhousia citridora)

Artemisia (Artemisia annua)

response is the inflammasome

Cells from a basophil cell line (RBL-2H3)

production and distribution, which results

intracellular complex. The inflammasome

were coated with an IgE antibody against

in skin pigmentation. They are located in

initiates caspase-1 self-cleavage, leading to

DNP and treated for 20 minutes with one or

the basal layer of the epidermis, producing

the formation of the active caspase-1. This

two percent of the active ingredient. Cell

melanin within melanosomes with the

proteolytically activates proteins, interleukin-

degranulation was stimulated with DNP

help of enzymes like tyrosinase. Pigment-

1ß (IL-1ß) and IL-18, making them biologically

for one hour and the release evaluated by

containing melanosomes are transferred to

active and induces their release for a

measuring enzymatic activity. Compared

neighbouring keratinocytes, distributing the

subsequent inflammatory response.1

to the control, Actismart lemon myrtle at

pigment in the upper layers of the skin.

Mast cells, also known as granulocytes,

concentrations of one and two percent

Melanogenesis is regulated by signalling

are found in the skin and contain pro-

reduced the release of ß-hexosaminidase by

molecules produced and released by

inflammatory mediators such as the

37.7 and 54 percent respectively, indicating

keratinocytes as part of the paracrine

ß-hexosaminidase enzyme and histamine.

a decrease in mast cell degranulation for a

communication between keratinocytes

These mediators form part of the itching

skin soothing effect.

and melanocytes. Endothelin-1 (ET-1) is

response. Their release, or degranulation,

The levels of interleukin-1ß and

secreted by the keratinocytes and binds

can further induce the production of pro-

interleukin-18 were evaluated by an enzyme-

to specific receptors in the melanocytes

inflammatory cytokines, which potentiate the

linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) after

(ETBR), leading to increased melanocyte

inflammatory response.2

treating human keratinocytes with Actismart

proliferation and melanin synthesis and

lemon myrtle for 24 hours, followed by UVB

enhanced skin pigmentation.3,4 Gene

myrtle on the downregulation of key

irradiation. Non-irradiated cells were used as

expression modulation was studied

inflammasome genes, human epidermal

a control. The botanical extract significantly

by means of microarray analysis on

keratinocytes were treated for 24 hours with

reduced the levels of IL-1ß and IL-18 after

keratinocytes treated for 24 hours with one

one percent of the active ingredient. The

UVB irradiation, showing a potential anti-

percent Actismart spikenard. Expression of

modulation of gene expression was studied

inflammatory effect.

the gene coding for endothelin-1 (ET-1) was

To test the efficacy of Actismart lemon

by microarray analysis.

IL1ß, CASP1 and NLRP3 gene expression

ACTISMART SPIKENARD

downregulated by 33.7 percent (statistical significance: p<0.0001), suggesting a

showed a statistically significant decrease

Nardostachys jatamansi is one of the most

paracrine regulation of the function

of 20.3, 64.0 and 52.7 percent respectively.

cherished and rare Himalayan herbs,

of melanocytes.

The inhibition of inflammasome gene

traditionally used in Ayurveda. Commonly

expression suggested a decrease in the

known as spikenard, Lipotec used the plant

treated with 0.05 percent Actismart

inflammatory response. Actismart lemon

to develop Actismart spikenard. This active

spikenard, while control cells were treated

myrtle’s ability to inhibit ß-hexosaminidase

is characterised by the sesquiterpene

with a medium. Cell treatments were

release was also tested. The release

desoxo-narchinol A and has shown to

repeated every two to three days for 13

mediated by immunoglobulin E (IgE) was

minimise melanin production. Melanocytes

days. Melanin was extracted from the cells

used as a marker of mast cell degranulation.

are key players in the process of melanin

and quantified by absorbance.

18

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

Primary human melanocytes were

SKIN CARE Figure 1: Human melanocytes at the end of the treatment

After the treatment, melanin content decreased by 18.2 percent, showing a direct action within melanocytes to reduce skin pigmentation (see Figure 1).

ACTISMART ARTEMISIA Commonly used in traditional Chinese medicine, Actismart artemisia is an extract of Artemisia annua. A Nobel prize winning

0.05 PERCENT ACTISMART SPIKENARD

CONTROL

anti-malarial drug was also discovered analysis. At the end of the treatment,

ingredients are available throughout

S100A9 and S100A8 were significantly

southern Africa from Savannah

its total flavonoid content and has been

upregulated by 106.7 and 154.0 percent

Fine Chemicals. •

demonstrated to induce calprotectin – an

respectively, suggesting the potential

antimicrobial peptide that protects the

antimicrobial activity of the active.

using this plant.

Actismart artemisia is characterised by

skin against pathogens. As part of the

To determine the amount of

innate defence mechanism, antimicrobial

calprotectin using an ELISA, human

peptides are secreted by cells and present

epidermal keratinocytes were again

a broad antibacterial activity. They are

treated with Actismart artemisia for 24

key to protecting the skin from external

hours. Flagellin was used as a positive

microorganisms. Calprotectin consists of a

control, since it has been demonstrated

complex formed by two binding proteins,

to induce the expression of S100A8 and

S100A8 and S100A9.5

S100A9.

Human epidermal keratinocytes were

Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah – www.savannah.co.za REFERENCES: 1. Latz E, et al. Activation and regulation of the inflammasomes.

Nat Rev Immunol. 13(6); doi:10.1038/nri3452, 2013.

2. Amin K. The role of mast cells in allergic inflammation.

Respiratory Medicine. 106:9 to 14, 2012.

3. Yamaguchi Y, Hearing VJ. Physiological factors that regulate skin pigmentation. Biofactors. 35(2): 193 to 199, 2009.

The results showed cells treated

4. Hirobe T. Keratinocytes regulate the function of melanocytes.

Dermatologica Sinica; 32(4): 200-4, 2014.

treated for 24 hours with 0.5 percent

with Actismart artemisia increased

Actismart artemisia and gene expression

their calprotectin content in a dose-

(Calprotectin) is upregulated by bacterial flagellin in human

modulation was studied using microarray

dependent manner. Lipotec’s active

epidermal keratinocytes.

5. Abtin A. The antimicrobial heterodimer S100A8/S100A9

A selection of unique botanicals from around the world prized for their beauty-enhancing, spiritual and natural benefits.

All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates.© 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.

Sin título-4 1

28/08/2018 11:53:38

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

19

SKIN CARE

A specialist solution for sensitive African skin French pharmacy brand, Mixa was launched in Africa in March. These body care products promise to improve the quality of sensitive skin. By Abby Vorster

M

ixa was first developed in 1924

L’Oréal conducted a series of clinical

Nigeria), irritation (25 percent), itching

by French pharmacist, Dr

studies on dry and sensitive skin in the

(24 percent) and sun burn (22 percent

Roger, who mixed ingredients

South African and Pan African markets.

and predominant in South Africa).

to create a specialist

Dr Evanson Kamuri, chairman of the

Mixa’s efficacy on African skins was

ointment for severely dry, rough hands.

Dermatologist Association of Kenya,

also tested in clinical studies, with the

He used a unique mixing technique,

shared key study insights at the

following findings:

which inspired the brand’s

L’Oréal Skin Symposium on

• relief was evident by day seven

name – Mixa. Owned and

2 September, which formed part of the

• 30 to 100 percent of the volunteers

distributed by L’Oréal, Mixa

African Society of Dermatology and

is ideal for sensitive and

Venereology congress that took place

dry African skin.

in South Africa.

In conjunction with Sagaci Research,

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

skin dryness • desquamation or skin peeling was

KEY CONSUMER INSIGHTS Sunlight and soap are pinpointed as

20

experienced significant relief of

improved among >60 percent of the volunteers • in Senegal, volunteers noted the high

primary aggressors of

level of cold sensitivity was relieved.

sensitive skin.

While the range of Mixa body creams

The most typical

is fully imported, L’Oréal is looking to

symptoms are

develop more relevant Mixa branded

allergic reactions

products for the African market by

(26 percent and

producing line extensions in Kenya,

predominant in

South Africa and the Ivory Coast. •

PACKAGING

Robotics – At the end of the line Unilever has established a US$272 million manufacturing plant in the UAE. It is said to be the largest personal care facility in the Middle East and Africa.

G

lobal consumer goods

line performance of two packaging

companies like Unilever

lines, which bottle shampoo and

are investing billions of

conditioner products.

dollars in the Middle East.

Gebo Cermex played a crucial role

‘We have a unique capability to propose complete end of line

in the launch of Unilever’s new facility

solutions for unstable bottles or bottles

in Dubai, installing two comprehensive

with complex shapes. This involves

end of line technologies for the

preventing mass flow accumulation.

production of shaped bottles for

Unilever’s expectations on line speed

shampoo and conditioner. The lines

and maximum time for changeovers

can handle eight formats from 100 to

challenged our design department to

900mℓ per line at 350 products per

stretch the boundaries of the current

minute. This is combined with multiple

range and to merge modules and

10-minute changeovers per day. The

technologies,’ says Jean-Philippe

a single universal gripping head

facility is also designed to reduce waste

Beduneau, strategic key account

for all eight formats. Design experts

and energy consumption, in line with

director for Unilever at Gebo Cermex.

developed a 3D-printed, light-

the Unilever Sustainable Living Plan via which the company aims to significantly reduce its environmental impact.

Unilever will mark products

Robotics at work

weighted tooling solution, which

AUTOMATED, SIMPLIFIED AND ECO-FRIENDLY

will reduce energy consumption by optimising the robot size.

To facilitate fast changeovers,

manufactured at the factory with a

the company took a robotic

‘Made in UAE’ stamp, acknowledging

approach at the product

the strong trade corridor the UAE offers,

collation stage. Its

connecting the east and western parts

designers removed

were further simplified by integrating

Since simplicity in this highly

DID YOU KNOW?

complex line is a key factor, the changeovers can be orchestrated

to Unilever across different production

directly via the HMI without a Spanning 100 000m2, the need for manual intervention.

Unilever plant is set to deliver the many mechanical For shrink-wrapping, a highest annual output of parts typically thermo-sealing solution was 100 000t of beauty and personal used, ensuring easy implemented for high quality care products in liquid format access to the heart packs. In case erecting, for the Dove, Fair & Lovely, of the machine and a Lifebuoy, Vaseline, Clear, packing, case sealing and TRESemme and Sunsilk streamlined solution. palletising, changes were applied brands.

Unilever and the experts to fulfil the changeover needs with for robotics and shrinkuniversal systems.

lines. These include packers and

wrapping opted for six robots using

The packer is a secure pick

shrink wrappers to pack premium

FlowDesigner. This is Gebo Cermex’s

and place solution with a gantry

pots of skin cream or tubs of facial

flow management and product

case packer. It allows for fast and

cream in cartons. Unilever relied on

tracking intelligence system for gentle

simple changeovers owing to its

the engineering and robotic expertise

bottle handling and continuous

quick release system for tooling.

of Gebo Cermex to secure the end of

batch preparation. Changeovers

The case erector and case sealer

of the region. It will export 80 percent of these products to the MENA region and Europe.

A FACTORY FIT FOR A GROWING MARKET Gebo Cermex supplied 19 machines

reliably work at a notable speed of 40cpm. A shock-free, electronic spacer infeed system secures high product protection at the layer preparation of the high level, layer by layer palletiser. •

Gebo Cermex – www.gebocermex.com The new plant in Dubai

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

21

PACKAGING

Go provocative, choose eye catching labels Adding a foil finish is an effective way to enhance the quality of a label. P&C Review Africa explores the differences of cold and hot foil techniques and delves into a label system providing increased flexibility while reducing maintenance.

T

o produce cold foiled labels

can be produced in any colour, silver

a versatile approach. According

a metallic foil is applied onto

and gold remain popular

to Boyd Haley, GM at Dash Labels,

various materials, adding

options. Although hot foil is

the company’s popular labels are

to the appearance of the

suitable for rough or textured

both cold and hot foiled labels,

final product. The procedure uses a

surfaces, the requirement is that

most often used on cosmetics

special glue cured by UV light.

cold foil be applied to a smooth

packaging. These provide

A cold foil consists of a semi-

label surface. This is because a

premium finishes and are suitable

transparent single layer of film thin

label needs to be laid as lay flat

for pharmaceutical products. ‘If

enough for light to penetrate it.

as possible once it is applied. The

there is a requirement for smaller

advantage of cold foiling is it can

text, dots, circles or lines to be

Hot foil stamping uses specially cut metal dies, affixing a thin foil using

be applied at a higher resolution,

heat and pressure. The foil comprises

over a larger area and more

a pattern or text and although these

precisely. Cold foil printing provides

Boyd Haley

applied to a bigger pack area, the cold process is the ideal fit. We produce all labels to customer requirements for hair care, beauty or pharmaceutical products.

Our offerings are unique. We pride ourselves on the service and quality offered. We also prefer to remain specialised by servicing

Achieve flexible production

medium sized companies.’

Dash Labels’ print capacity for

with integrated robotics solutions

specialised industries is unlimited. It has a purpose built facility in Gauteng, South Africa and services a vast client base in Mozambique, Botswana, Swaziland, Seychelles, Ghana, Mauritius and Tanzania.

LATEST ROLL-FED CONCEPT Sacmi has redesigned the mechanical and electronical configuration of its latest Roll-Fed labeller. This includes the look of the machine, its base, labelling Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.

Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!

Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 22 | QUARTER 3 2018 | 1 P C Africa

20-07-17 12:52

PACKAGING

DID YOU KNOW?

COSMETICS LABELS MUST INCLUDE

• the name and physical street address of the manufacturer or the distributor of the product in the country in which it’s being sold • an expiry date if the minimum period of durability is less than 30 months • the name of the product and its nominal quantity in the container when packaged • precautions and warning statement for use • the product function, if it’s not already apparent from its presentation e.g. cleanser or toner • a batch number for traceability • a list of all ingredients used to compound the product in INCI nomenclature at the correct levels where required by regulatory stipulation. The correct INCI names may be obtained from the most recent version of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as published by the Personal Care Products Council of America.

in the redesign. The conservation and improvement of the main Sacmi machine

Hot foiling was originally known as foil blocking.

The process is centuries old and was modernised for the possible insertion of in the ’30s, making it more cost-effective other labelling stations. It is and less labour also easy to setup. With the intensive. ever evolving labelling market,

advantages based vast

this machine must be equipped

experience with thousands of

to accept many important and quick

successful installations worldwide, and the implementation of improvements based

changes, enabling unlimited flexibility.

‘The end user or label supplier is provided

on the latest technological innovations in

a number of possibilities. A second roll fed

the machinery industry.

labelling station can be added for higher

The main goal chieved by the company is

speeds. The layout provides increased

that the system has a ‘family look’. It has the

flexibility for the addition or exchange of

appearance of a standard Sacmi machine.

other labelling technologies and less space

New electronic architecture has been

is occupied within the line layout. If need

added and the labelling process has been

be, clients can request the fixed labelling

improved. It also has a common chassis for

station becomes a modular labelling

all technologies.

station,’ Botha adds.

Divian Botha, technical sales engineer

Films on the machine can be managed

at Millchem, a Sacmi agent, discusses the

because of the improved, high speed label

machine’s ergonomics: ‘This user friendly

film speed control and automatic label

roll-fed labeller enhances accessibility

splicing. With this feature, the client can run

and safety while simplifying setup and

labels of reduced thicknesses and heights.

reducing maintenance for an operator. By

‘Optimised label film buffers with

implementing a few changes, the machine

improved label film tension control and

is more user-friendly.’

an accurate pneumatic system are

It comprises a round, smaller machine

fundamentals in managing label films.

base with a compact layout. Less noise

It is also pertinent to have the label film

stations and electronics. The labeller was

is produced and better maintenance

area increased and to have a pinch roller

developed to satisfy the growing demand

accessibility is maintained without the need

with low inertia providing the possibility of

for a simple, safe and reliable machine. It

for lubrication. The roll-fed labeller’s base is

running labels of reduced thicknesses

is described as an ideal solution for end

raised on a single block providing integrated

and heights,’ he concludes. •

users who want to exploit the advantages

protection of the machine frame and

of roll-fed labelling. Variations of the hot

electrical cabinet.

melt glue or label material characteristics have little effect on the machines output. Two main guidelines were used

The labelling station can be positioned at a different angle around the machine or as a central carousel, which frees up space

Dash Labels – www.dashlabels.co.za Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

Trim size – 65mm (H) x 177mm (W)

BEST VALUE GUARANTEED. In a world where you get what you pay for, we are commited to ensuring the best product delivered at the best price possible. No compromise.

Experts in Shrink Sleeve, Wrap Around & Pressure Sensitive Labels

For further information on how we can help build your brand contact our Project Developement team on Tel 031 502 5050 email: info@labelprint.co.za www.labelprint.co.za

Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. Imperial Building 12 Fairway Avenue Mt Edgecombe, Durban, KZN Tel: 031 502 5050 Fax: 031 502 4640

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

23

TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS

Manage your load with reliable door systems and docking solutions The seamless distribution of goods from source to final destination requires careful planning and management at the point of loading and offloading. Maxiflex offers a range of industrial door and loading dock solutions that cater to the diverse requirements of distribution and logistics.

R

ugged, efficient and reliable door systems are a critical link in the distribution chain. The entry and exit points through which goods

are moved are normally large; alongside the admission of wind, dust, insects and birds, internally controlled hot or cold air escapes through these portals increasing

Industrial door and loading dock solutions from Maxiflex for distribution and logistics facilities

utility costs or causing product damage.

‘Defined by their efficiency, robustness,

certification for water tightness, wind load

provide weather protection during loading

flexibility, convenience and safety, our

and air permeability and deliver the lowest

and unloading. Should a vehicle deviate

door solutions help maintain better

possible operating cost.

from the dock-in centre line and hit the

control and protection of goods,

As the exclusive distributor of ASSA Abloy

shelter frame, built-in springs allow the

handling equipment and the work force,’

entrance systems in sub-Saharan Africa,

shelter to follow the movement without

comments Bram Janssen, MD of Maxiflex.

Maxiflex’s product portfolio for storage and

being damaged.

‘Our door systems are engineered to

loading dock applications is extensive.

deliver efficient and reliable performance even under extremely high workloads and arduous conditions, offering the lowest total cost of ownership.’

The modular design of overhead sectional doors from the portfolio of ASSA Abloy entrance systems supports

BRIDGE THE GAP The easy to operate swing lip dock leveller connects a building with a vehicle by safely bridging the gap between the ramp and vehicle bed.

It ensures safe and efficient goods

customers’ needs for specialised

transfer, preventing injuries or damage

configurations. These modern, robust

to goods and equipment. The extremely

and flexible doors are an ideal choice

robust support of the leveller absorbs

for warehouses, logistics centres and

impact while the open hinges prevent

distribution facilities.

blockage by way of the ‘swinging out’

The joints are designed for better load

MORE TRANSPORT AND LOGISTICS COMPANIES ARE EQUIPPING THEIR LOADING BAYS WITH CURTAIN DOCK SHELTERS FROM MAXIFLEX

movement. The swing lip dock leveller is

distribution, ensuring rugged reliability

easy to maintain, keeping downtime to

The front curtains of the dock shelter

over a long service life. Built to the highest

a minimum.

are fixed to the front frame with steel

standards, these extremely well-insulated

Unlike any other on the market, the

balls, which not only hold the fabric in

doors deliver outstanding insulation

curtain dock shelter from Maxiflex is robust.

place but are also flexible to allow for

and seamless performance in all

The side and top curtains are made from

movement on impact from trucks. This

weather conditions.

durable, three millimetre thick flexible

increases the tear resistance of the fabric

polyester fabric and a weight reducing

and avoids breaking points. Curtain

a four-way seal to create maximum

aluminium frame. When a vehicle reverses

dock shelters are available in a number

tightness. The doors have a class three

into the curtain shelter, it is sealed off to

of models, which protect goods and

Rubber gaskets on all sides ensure

24

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS

The industry leading opening and closing speeds of its doors range from 1.2 to 2.5m per second. In addition, their excellent sealing capabilities help reduce costs and improve efficiencies. The high speed sectional door, which boasts an operational speed four times faster than standard counterparts, is the newest offering in the range. ‘Independent tests show, compared to the standard panel sectional door, these new high speed sectional doors can reduce energy expenses by a remarkable 12 percent,’ notes Janssen.

By effectively keeping out drafts, dust, dirt and humidity, these doors create a hygienic, comfortable and safe working environment conducive to improved productivity. equipment and are suitable for a wide

‘We also supply a convenient all

range of vehicle sizes and meet varied

in one docking control system that

and produced rugged PVC strip

customer requirements.

gives the user direct control of the

curtains and sheeting are

dock leveller, shelter and door in one

manufactured from flexible, clear

control unit.’

and durable PVC. These strip curtains

Due to the high wear and tear resistance of the curtain material, combined with the good priceperformance ratio, Janssen notes more

HIGH SPEED DOORS

transport and logistics companies are

Maxiflex was the first company to

equipping their loading bays with curtain

introduce high speed doors to the South

dock shelters from Maxiflex.

African market.

The high quality, in house designed

present a perfect sealing solution for doorways in freezer environments. •

Maxiflex – www.maxiflex.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

25

FRAGRANCES

A nose for African scents and aromas The extensive natural resources in Africa are ideal sources of ingredients for fragrance creations. These raw materials are particularly trendy, researched by major brands and favoured by consumers who prefer authentic natural products over conventional mass produced offerings.

E

merging populations in Africa, Asia and South America want their ancestral beauty secrets to be recognised

and modernised in new sensory formulations enhanced by dedicated fragrances. As a result, global brands should focus more on regional individualities through consumer insight studies.

The richness of the African continent continues to inspire fashion designers, architects, fragrance creators and formulators. Think of shea butter, a real African treasure, which has become a pillar of

the African region,

when purchasing, colour can help

the beauty industry,

whose knowledge

them connect a home fragrance

protecting and

of consumers’

to their décor to create a desired

repairing the skin

expectations is

atmosphere. The scent of their

and hair. Palm oil, one

essential.

laundry can emphasise their eau

of the most popular

SMELL THE COLOURS

ingredients, is a powerful antioxidant and beauty elixir,

Seasonal colours are strong

widely used by African women to moisturise and soften their skin and protect it from the sun. These ingredients inspire fragrance creators to imagine new scents and improve their regional olfactive transcription.

Payan Bertrand’s perfumers and

The orange tones of a juicy mango and tropical flowers may inspire uniquely African fragrance creations

influencers in perfumery. The

using product analysis and deciphering trends.

They are inspired by the subliminal connection that exists between the colours of ingredients and their efficiency to create specific concepts. The perfumers and marketing team also rely on the expertise of Natchem, Payan Bertrand’s distributor in

26

products and perfume.

The popular colours for 2018/19 are perfectly in tune with African ingredients, culture,

bright colours and the warmth

music and cuisine:

of African people legitimise the

• green, evolving from palm green

harmony between colours, emotions

to a darker shade, represents

and perfume.

nature, the jungle, roots and

In the past, the colour of

BRIGHT COLOURS AND THE WARMTH OF AFRICAN PEOPLE LEGITIMISE THE HARMONY BETWEEN COLOURS, EMOTIONS AND PERFUME

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

interference between their body care

richness of the continent, its energy,

marketing team study all the evolutions in the market,

de toilette and they can avoid

the year only really influenced

sustainability • curry yellow is reminiscent of

fashion. Today, it crosses

happiness, the savanna and exotic

categories and rises not only in

chic; it’s wild and shining, spicy and

selective fragrances but also

evokes the scents of pineapple,

in personal and home care product fragrances, including

shea butter and banana • orange is hot on dark skin tones,

laundry detergent and other

it’s connected, clearly modern,

home care applications.

elegant, solar, iconic, sensual

Colour acts as an unconscious link. A seasonal colour choice helps to distinguish a product

and reminiscent of a juicy tropical mango • ultra violet, although more relevant

on crowded shelves. Because

to Europe than Africa, evokes

consumers look for coherence

authenticity and sophistication; it

FRAGRANCES These olibanum tears are characterised by a balsamic-spicy, slightly lemon scent with a conifer-like undertone

glitters, is audacious, gourmand-like and

and not characterised by their

sexy, and often associated with liquors

social status or sexual identity.

and blue fruits like the blackcurrant tones

Gender fluidity is evident in how

of South African buchu.

they look, their way of living,

This creative pallet of colours is easily

purchasing preferences and

adapted to African tastes and ideal for

their sexual behaviour. Gender

Ethnic skin, hair, body and home care

fluid, agender, neutral, para-

products that demand powerful, diffusing

gender or no gender – there

and lasting fragrances.

are many terms to express the

GENDER NEUTRAL AROMAS

identity dynamic that blends masculine with feminine to achieve

Already a major trend in Europe and the US,

a ‘genderless’ end product. First seen on

will allow a young couple to purchase

interest in genderless fragrances is growing

fashion runways, the gender-neutral trend

the same products. Marine notes, dry

in Africa. One driver is niche perfumery,

is growing, especially in hair care, fine

amber, spices and smoky woods in home

which continues to capture a widening

fragrances, home fragrance applications

fragrances not only signify luxury but are

share of the fine fragrances market. Niche

and cosmetics. Olfactively, it is translated

also considered unisex by consumers.

or alternative perfumery places ingredients

by the popularity of ‘eau fraiche’ and the

Perfume creators should improve their

at the heart of a formulation. It doesn’t

strong comeback of ‘eau de cologne’

social, emotional and regional knowledge

consider global olfactive trends and

fragrance concentrations. For example,

in Africa and worldwide, to offer consumers

consumer preferences. Magnifying or even

intense woods are used in feminine

new tailored made creations that meet

overdosing ingredients or selecting rare

perfume structures, while flowers such as

their needs for coherence and individuality

olfactive profiles, such as gums, luxurious

orris or orange blossom are used in more

in the products they purchase. •

woods, heady flowers and strong ambery

masculine creations.

and animalic tones – niche perfumery has

In hair care, especially relevant to male

changed olfactive references. Millennials are

consumers who favour boldly coloured

another driver of the genderless trend. These

and fashionable hair styles, the use of fresh

consumers want to be seen as individuals

mint, exotic fruits, citrus and aquatic notes

Natchem – www.natchem.co.za Payan Bertrand – www.payanbertrand.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

27

FRAGRANCES

An enchanted garden of unique ingredients Superfoods like chia seeds, goji berries and kale are in high demand. These trendy ingredients have evolved from health food store exclusivity to mainstream acceptance in the cosmetics industry.

This is thanks to their high concentrations of antioxidants and other nutrients.

T

he growing success of natural cosmetics has played a decisive role

The Asian superfruit, mangosteen

in the superfoods trend.

Superfruits, supervegetables and supergrains have become an almost inexhaustible source

care market in some regions.

GRUB TO SCRUB

of ingredients for the cosmetics

Stable global growth in the natural

The clean eating trend saw

industry. Yet no conclusive

cosmetics sector is predicted for

superfruits grow in popularity. For

definition exists for the term

the coming years. ‘Trends such as

example, porridge produced from

‘superfood’. According

increased health consciousness

oat flakes became trendy breakfast

generally follow a familiar cycle,’

cereal; shortly thereafter the first

to the European Food Information Council, ‘superfood’ is a generic term for foods considered to have superior health benefits because of their nutrient content.

This makes the category suitable

DID YOU KNOW?

explains Anja Reissig, marketing

specialist from Bell Flavors & The bright colours of many superfoods are often due to Fragrances EMEA. ‘The growth the presence of antioxidant phase and establishment compounds, which make these follow the conception and plants appealing. For example, quality extracts of turmeric, emergence of a trend. pomegranate and amla can Thereafter, maturity or improve the appearance of saturation occurs before the skin, scalp and hair by protecting them from trend degenerates. If one looks environmental at the life cycle of the vitality and aggressors.

body care products formulated with an oat-inspired fragrance or extract appeared on the market.

‘Since 2017 superfoods have been used more and more in body and hair care products. The trend reflects consumers increasing desire for beauty both internally and externally,’ Reissig explains. ‘In hair care, superfood ingredients and

balance megatrend, as it is called

fragrances enhance the perceived

purposes – in both the food

in professional circles and in which

functionality of a shampoo and

and cosmetics industries.

the superfruits can undoubtedly

conditioner. In skin care, nourishing

be classified, it was first adopted by

properties are particularly

the food and beverage industry.

important. Superfruits are full of

for product marketing

Health conscious consumers are also highly environmentally conscious and pay very close

The personal care industry

antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and

attention to the ingredients in

quickly followed suit and we are

other substances known to promote

their toiletries. As a result, the

currently seeing this trend in full

health. Keeping the legal framework

growth rate of natural and organic

bloom with GlobalData survey

in mind, manufacturers can use the

cosmetics is already exceeding

results predicting further prospects

benefits associated with superfruits

that of the conventional personal

for growth.’

for their product marketing.’

28

| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa

FRAGRANCES

RELEVANCE IN PERSONAL CARE

shimmering leaves, this herb plays

included in the CosIng database – the

an increasingly important role due

EU’s official database for cosmetics

The categories of superfoods range

to its alleged anti-ageing benefits.

ingredients – for its properties.

from powdered ingredients such

Antioxidants, calcium and vitamin A

as matcha, moringa, baobab and

are all considered beneficial for the

BOTANICAL INGREDIENTS

turmeric to classic fruits and berries

skin, cell formation and hair growth.

Consumers place great trust in the

like goji, acai and blueberries –

The diversity of tropical plants

benefits of natural ingredients. Although

pomegranate and avocado are also

and fruits guarantees that new

superfruits are primarily used as a

considered superfruits.

superfruits are regularly discovered.

motif and inspiration for innovative

For example, Bell recently added

fragrances, manufacturers can go a

a fragrance based on the Asian

step further using botanical extracts

superfruit mangosteen to its portfolio.

in their formulations. Reissig

This fruity, aromatic fragrance has

explains: ‘Just like superfruits,

nuances of fig, rose and apricot,

consumers perceive products

underlining the rich character of

formulated with natural ingredients

the violet fruit with its white lychee-

to offer additional value. The trick is

like flesh. Mangosteen is also prized

to skilfully combine both aspects.’

SUPERFOOD INGREDIENTS AND FRAGRANCES ENHANCE THE PERCEIVED FUNCTIONALITY OF A SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER

for its high nutrient content of

For manufacturers looking to develop

xanthones. These are very powerful

new products using Bell’s Arctic Circle

antioxidants said to protect the

plant extract, the company’s marketing

skin and hair from free radical

experts suggest concepts such as polar

Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA

damage and offer anti-inflammatory

light, arctic blue and glacier water.

has noticed native wild plants and

effects. To date, about 200 different

herbs are experiencing a boom in

xanthones have been identified

and related categories

Germany. The fragrance company

in nature of which mangosteen

illustrates immense potential

has also identified various cereals

contains 43, making it the richest

for the personal care

as superfoods. According to Bell

natural source of xanthones.

industry. There are virtually

Flavors & Fragrances EMEA, spelt,

The broad spectrum of superfruits

no limits to manufacturers’

amaranth are ideal for creams,

FRESHNESS FROM THE ARCTIC

lotions and hair care products.

Unique, distinctive extracts catch

based on new and

consumers attention and are

interesting ingredients.

found their place in the superfood

perceived as a sign of innovative

In combination with

trend. Be it kale, cucumber or carrot,

strength. In light of the current

botanical extracts, there

these vegetables are all experiencing

trend of Scandinavian themed

are endless competitive

a boom in connection with the detox

products, its likely botanical extracts

advantages that can and

trend. This involves eating a lot of

originating from northern regions will

should be explored. •

uncooked vegetables to increase

become more popular in the future.

teff, Khorasan wheat, sorghum and

Domestic vegetables have also

one’s energy levels and to allow the skin to shine from within.

‘As a manufacturer of flavours,

for evoking feelings of freedom, purity and freshness. The fresh

our goal is to offer consumers new

and youthful appearance

and exciting combinations. Popular

associated with Nordic femininity

vegetable-inspired fragrances and

is particularly popular with

extracts in our collection include

skin care products. Reissig

cucumber and borage, corn and

elaborates: ‘Siberian plants or

coriander, and sweet potato and

species from Scotland and the

rosemary,’ Reissig comments.

Faroe Islands are at the centre of

In the search for new ingredients, it’s valuable to look both on your

consumers with products

Anja Reissig

These ingredients, which relate to the Arctic Circle, are ideal

fragrances and botanical extracts,

INGREDIENTS FROM NEAR AND FAR

imagination to present

Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – www.bell-europe.com

current products on the market.

Northern European ingredients include cottongrass, Arctic cloudberry and birch sap.’

In light of this development,

doorstep and to distant destinations.

Bell EMEA recently expanded

The aromatic, pleasant fragrance

its product portfolio to include

of sage is not only suitable for

plant extracts such as cup flower,

the medicine chest but also the

red algae, gentian, edelweiss

personal care industry. With its silvery

and bearberry. The latter is

P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |

29

FRAGRANCES

Indulge the senses

A

t in-cosmetics Latin America

create eau de cologne and eau fraiche

2018, which took place from

options to encourage shoppers to buy more

19 to 20 September, visitors

perfumes and use them daily.

could discover fragrance

and ingredients trends to help grow

AROMATIC SOLUTIONS ON SHOW

their businesses.

Fragrance formulators wanting to grasp a

This immersive and interactive show in São

better understanding of global trends and

Paulo, Brazil offered brands, manufacturers

new innovations, could engage all their

and formulators up to the minute trends with

senses in the in-cosmetics Latin America

expert insights and the chance to get hands

Fragrance Trail. This new show feature guided

on with ingredients.

visitors through the prestigious fragrance

According to in-cosmetics Global, the

houses and producers and distributors of

worldwide perfume and fragrance market is

extracts and raw materials, helping them

projected to reach US$64.6 billion (CAGR six

locate exhibitors that offer fragrance related.

percent) by 2023. Manufacturers continue

Fragrance concepts for finished products and perfumery offerings are of growing interest to in-cosmetics’ visitors

It also provided a platform for expert

to innovate and consumers are using their

formulation advice, insight into regional

among show visitors. It helped them

rising disposable incomes to buy into the

differences and where to source aromatic

navigate and find the latest fragrance

market. Niche fragrances are in vogue,

components for personal care formulations

ingredients that can make a real

with younger consumers more interested

from the world’s leading suppliers.

difference to their finished products.’ •

in personalised products and experiences.

Daniel Zanetti, exhibition director of

International perfume houses are using

in-cosmetics Latin America, comments:

lower concentrations of fragrance oils to

‘The Fragrance Trail was very popular

in-cosmetics Latin America – www.latinamerica.in-cosmetics.com

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

30

| QUARTER 2 2018 | P C Africa

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

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