L'Oréal South Africa celebrates six decades of innovation
6 DIARY What’s on in October and November
7 INGREDIENTS & RAW MATERIALS
Go beyond the surface with scalp care
Get salon straightened hair at home
Finding the right sunscreen for dark skin
15 HOME CARE
Trusted preservatives for the home
17 PERFUMERY & FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS
Home care is the new self-care
Transforming emotional landscapes with neuroscience and scent
Crafting body mists for the modern consumer
23 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS
A natural solution for pain relief
Excipients driving pharmaceutical excellence
Ensure s safety and quality with advanced measurement solutions
Cutting-edge innovations
Our quarterly trade magazine, P&C Review Africa
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX
BASF Personal Care 12
https://www.personal-care.basf.com/beyondbeauty Brenntag SA 23 www.brenntag.com
Chempack Industries 5 www.cpack.co.za
CJP Chemicals 25 www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Croda Beauty 8 https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb
Düllberg-konzentra 18 www.duellberg-konzentra.de/ Iberchem 20 https://iberchem.com/ IMCD South Africa 10 www.imcdsa.co.za
Lubrizol Life Science ................................... 13 ......................www.lubrizol.com/beauty Moellhausen ................................................. 22 ......................www.moellhausen.com
Nautica Organics 14 www.nauticaorganics.com
Savannah Fine Chemicals 16 www.savannah.co.za
Sensetek 4 www.sensetek.co.za
Symrise OFC www.symrise.com
Vega Controls 27 www.vega.com/radar
Flavors & Fragrances
L'Oréal South Africa celebrates six decades of innovation
OVER THE LAST six decades, L’Oréal South Africa has grown from a small operation to a leader in the beauty industry, crafting products that celebrate the rich diversity of South African beauty. Today, it reaffirms its commitment to fostering inclusivity, driving sustainability and supporting local communities.
Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oréal’s global CEO, travelled to South Africa for the very first time to attend the 60th anniversary celebration in Johannesburg, SA. His visit speaks volumes about the importance of South Africa to the L’Oréal family and the company’s commitment to deepening its relationships here.
“South Africa is a place that has touched us all at L’Oréal, with its rich diversity and the beautiful spirit of its people,” said Hieronimus. “Being here for this celebration is an honour, and it reminds us all why South Africa is so important to our global story. This moment is a tribute to the partnership
we’ve built with South Africans over the last 60 years.”
Since its beginnings, L’Oréal South Africa has grown into a leader in the beauty industry, creating products that not only reflect the diversity of South African beauty but also touch the lives of people in meaningful ways. This milestone isn’t just a celebration of the past, it’s about looking ahead to an exciting future of inclusivity, sustainability, and innovation.
At the event, Serge Sacré, CEO of L’Oréal South Africa, spoke from the heart about the company’s long-standing connection to the country and its people.
“This celebration isn’t just about the years we’ve been here, it’s about the lives we’ve touched, the communities we’ve worked with, and the innovation that has driven us forward,” said Sacré. “For 60 years, we have been committed to creating beauty for every South African, and we’re only getting started.”
We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products!
High Quality
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Chempack Industries
Contact: Linda Thieme 083 600 0167
064 610 2736
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Website: www.cpack.co.za
L'Oreal Global CEO, caption: Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oréal’s global CEO
Go beyond the surface with scalp care
Hair care must address the unique needs of the individual along with the common goal of maintaining healthy, great-looking hair. Croda Beauty explores how effective hair care goes beyond surface treatment to focus on scalp health. By Rendani Nemaungani of Croda SA
Ahealthy scalp is essential for preventing issues like dandruff, itching, and inflammation, which can impede hair growth and lead to hair loss. Innovative ingredients are needed to ensure proper scalp care, which supports unclogged follicles, improved blood circulation, and nutrient delivery, resulting in stronger, shinier hair.
In response to consumer demand for natural products, Croda Beauty Actives has adopted sustainable practices, like plant cell culture and biofermentation to create safe, effective, and environmentally friendly cosmetic ingredients. As a leader in this field, Croda Beauty is dedicated to developing sustainable solutions that
deliver proven results while minimising environmental impact.
Apiscalp™ is a multifunctional biobased ingredient that merges science and nature for exceptional performance. This natural extract is derived from Apium graveolens (celery) seeds through supercritical CO₂ extraction - a sustainable process that efficiently extracts compounds with high purity. This method reduces energy consumption and enables CO₂ recycling in a closed-loop system, making it an eco-friendly solution. By controlling the scalp microflora, Apiscalp™ restores homeostasis to a scalp with dry or oily dandruff. It also soothes scalp itching, redness and irritation, and helps restore the scalp stratum corneum integrity while regulating epidermal differentiation and desquamation.
Apiscalp™ is a multifunctional biobased ingredient that merges science and nature for exceptional performance
the same conditions. Here, 30 volunteers used the Apiscalp™ shampoo, and 30 used the placebo, also applying it at least three times a week for three weeks to address dandruff and itching. In a fourth study carried out in South Africa on a panel 32 volunteers with textured hair (from type 2C to 4B following Walker hair typing system), the efficacy of Apiscalp™ was evaluated by clinical study and selfassessment after three weeks’ use of a lotion containing 3% of the active ingredient.
International and local testing
Croda Beauty Actives is pleased to unveil new tests performed on textured hair with Apiscalp™. In total, four separate in vivo studies were carried out on 198 volunteers with dry and oily scalps and textured hair and with different hair care routines.
In the first two studies, panellists used a shampoo with 2% Apiscalp™ and a leave-on lotion with 3% Apiscalp™, or placebo products.
A total of 54 volunteers with itchy scalp, dry, and oily dandruff used the Apiscalp™ products, while 52 used the placebo, applying them at least three times a week for three weeks. In the third study, panellists used only a shampoo containing 3% Apiscalp™ or a placebo under
Positive study results highlight efficacy
The Apiscalp™ product showed positive results in self-evaluation by volunteers with oily and dry scalps. 93% of volunteers saw a reduction in dandruff, and 100% experienced alleviation of itching.
Most participants reported soothed and less irritated scalps, with rates of 73% or higher. In the case of dry scalp, all indicators showed significant improvement compared to a placebo. Instrumental and dermatological studies confirmed the product’s effects on comfort and purification of the scalp within seven days. Furthermore, 90% of volunteers with textured hair observed an 80%
90% of volunteers with textured hair observed an 80% reduction in itching after three weeks
reduction in itching after three weeks of using a leave-on lotion containing 3% Apiscalp™.
Dermatological evaluations have also demonstrated the effectiveness of Apiscalp™ in soothing itching, with reductions of 33% recorded for oily scalps and 30% for dry scalps - both significant compared to the placebo. This is supported by a 46% decrease in histamine production in the scalp. Oily scalps also showed a reduction in seborrhea by 27.2% after seven days, reaching 61% after three weeks. After three weeks of treatment, Apiscalp™ increased hydration by 12.1% to 148% and reduced water loss by 6.9% to 36%. For volunteers with textured hair, hydration increased by 43% after using a lotion containing 3% Apiscalp™.
Did you know?
Additional in vivo and in vitro study data is available on demand for Apiscalp™. These additional studies were conducted to demonstrate the various benefits of the active ingredient on scalp beauty and wellness.
This active ingredient limits the propensity for hyperproliferation known to be associated with dandruff. It also reduced the thickness of the stratum corneum by 13.3% to 47%, and volunteers observed a reduction of 63% in flaking.
Finally, a dermatologist assessed dandruff in volunteers with oily or dry scalps after three weeks of treatment. The results showed a significant improvement, with dandruff decreasing both in size and quantity by about 50% compared to placebo.
Scalp comfort
Scoring of scalp itching -80% after 21 days Hydration +43% after 21 days
Self-evaluation of scalp desquamation -19% immediately after the 1st application -63% after 21 days
Get salon straightened hair at home
As an alternative to relaxing, Chemyunion offers Allinea –a 100% biodegradable active ingredient that provides the temporary benefit of hair fibre realignment for extended frizz control. By Henrique Marconi, global product marketing manager
Skinimalist principles are influencing styling products, creating salon looks and results at a more affordable price in no time at all.
volume and frizz from the first use in a practical, effective and economical way.
Allinea immediately aligns strands and keeps them aligned even when exposed to high relative humidity, making it a great fighter against frizz
Easy hairstyling, often referred to ‘lazy hairscaping’, was conceptualised at an opportune moment when the global polycrisis, which has impacted the purchasing power of a large part of the population, forced consumers to change their priorities and habits. For this reason, multitasking products that work smarter have become essential for consumers as low-maintenance beauty habits reign supreme. Solutions that deter users from easy home care, but provide professional results in less than five minutes, will resonate with time-constrained consumers and those new to styling.
An innovative asset
Allinea is an active ingredient developed by Chemyunion for the temporary realignment of hair fibers, providing a reduction in hair
The alpha-hydroxy acids present in the composition of Allinea are associated with the thermal energy, humidity and mechanical action resulting from brushing, favouring the disruption of chemical interactions, providing hair relaxation and transforming the alphahelix structure into a β-pleated sheet without damaging the hair or creating S-S structures like conventional straighteners.
Allinea is an innovative asset in hair fibre alignment, not only in terms of the ‘umbrella’ effect that protects the hair, but also considering its sustainability profile as the active ingredient is upcycled from waste generated by the paper and cellulose industry.
Proven smoothing effect
Efficacy evaluations of Allinea have demonstrated its smoothing effect on hair fibres, even after 24 hours of exposure to high relative humidity, reducing volume by up to 56% from the first use, as shown in figure 1.
Allinea immediately aligns strands and keeps them aligned even when exposed to high relative humidity, making it a great fighter against frizz.
When Chemyunion conducted the tests shown in figure 2 and figure 3, the results showed that after two hours, Allinea reduced hair frizz by up to 30 times in just one application, without creating new damage to the fibres and ensuring a healthy appearance for the hair. These results show that the active ingredient is an excellent ally for consumers who seek practicality and salon results from at-home use hair care products.
Allinea is available throughout Southern Africa from IMCD, an approved distributor of Chemyunion.
Chemyunion – chemyunion.com
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za
Tame Those Locks Committed
to Haircare Innovation !
IMCD is dedicated to providing high-quality ingredients and innovative solutions for the haircare industry. They emphasize the importance of sustainability, focusing on natural and eco-friendly ingredients that meet the evolving demands of consumers. Our portfolio includes a wide range of raw materials designed to enhance hair health, appearance, and manageability. We are a solution provider who offers cutting-edge haircare products that stay at the forefront of haircare trends and advancements.
Figure 1: Analysis carried out without treatment, after treatment and after 2, 6 and 12 hours being exposed to relative humidity of 70±5%
Figure 2: Frizz analysis using polarised light with rumba hair equipment
Figure
Finding the right sunscreen for dark skin
The sun care market is transforming. With consumers paying more attention to their skin health, there is a clear need for more differentiated personal care products, including sunscreens. By Dr Myriam Sohn, BASF principal scientist – scientific liaisons – IP manager sun care
Consumer preferences are manifold –factors like skin sensitivity, application formats, sensorial expectations, purpose, and geographical location of use need to be considered. Skin colour can also be a decisive factor when looking for the right sun care product.
For example, dark skin is more prone to develop hyperpigmentation such as dark spots induced by long UVA exposure. From this type of consumer perspective, it makes sense to not only look for a high SPF but to prioritise UVA1VIS protection in a sunscreen. Formulators are challenged to develop more customised sun care products tailored to the specific needs of consumers who do not want to settle for the promise of a one-size-fits-all solution.
Different skin types
The categorisation of individuals into different sun-reactive skin types dates to the 1970s. At the time, Fitzpatrick proposed a working classification system for clinical practice to determine the appropriate UVA dose for UV therapy to treat psoriasis.1
His system is still used today. It encompasses six skin phototypes based on skin colour and on how they react to erythema and tanning after initial sun exposure. The system showed that natural skin pigmentation and sun reactivity are inversely related. The scale goes from skin phototype I, which corresponds to fairskinned individuals (FSI) who are highly sensitive to sun exposure, burn easily after a brief period of UV exposure and do not tan, to phototype VI, which corresponds with darkskinned individuals (DSI) who rarely burn and tan easily.
The reason for darker skin tones is melanin, a natural pigment produced in melanocyte cells in the skin’s basal layer. The content, composition, transfer, and distribution of melanin-containing melanosomes to keratinocytes differ according to skin colour, thereby explaining the global diversity in skin tones. 2-4 Melanin pigments provide natural or so-called ‘constitutive’ photoprotection in the UVrange, as they absorb at a maximum around
335nm. 5, 6 Melanin exists in two forms:
1. Reddish-yellow pheomelanin, which is predominant in fair skin types and has a weaker capacity for photoprotection
2. Brownish-black eumelanin, which is prevalent in dark skin types and provides greater photoprotection.7
Previous studies reported an erythemal constitutive protection rate of more than 10 times in DSI compared to FSI. 8, 9 Furthermore, DNA damage is observed to be lower and DNA-repairing mechanisms better in DSI. However, the natural photoprotection of dark skin also has its limits.
Limitations in natural photoprotection
It has been reported that people with skin types IV to VI may experience severe
UVA1-VIS protection should not be neglected in a sun care product
sunburn after prolonged sun exposure and are susceptible to DNA damage.10, 11 People with high levels of melanin are particularly affected by hyperpigmentation disorders and melasma, which are mainly attributed to the exposure to UVAI and the blue light (BL) band of the visible (VIS) light spectrum.
Another important factor is that darkskinned populations tend to use sunscreen less frequently compared to fair-skinned populations as reported by several studies. This is often due to lower awareness and perceived risk of developing skin cancer.12, 13
Photodamage, however, occurs and accumulates in all skin phototypes including DSI, leading to visible effects after a certain point.
Focus on balanced protection
Considering that 90% of UVA reaches the Earth’s surface, it makes sense that UVA1VIS protection should not be neglected in a sun care product. UVA rays not only cause premature skin ageing but also contribute to skin cancer.
In 2006, the European Commission recommended that sunscreen products should have UVA protection of at least one third of their
SPF value.14 This led to a major improvement in the performance of sunscreens in the UVA range and ensures that a minimum UVA protection level is provided with a more balanced UV spectrum.
However, a significant amount of UVA – particularly UVAI rays – is still not being blocked by sunscreen products with a UVA protection value that is one third of their SPF. Since daily exposure to low UV doses has been shown to contribute to long-term effects, daycare products should prioritise well-balanced UVA protection to an even greater extent.15, 16
Tailored sun care to encourage use
An important lever to encourage the use of sunscreen among DSI is the development of tailored sun protection products for their specific performance needs and sensorial
Cetiol
Tinovis GTC UP Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Chroma-Lite Black CL4498 Mica (and) Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Iron Oxides
Chroma-Lite Brown CL4509 Mica (and) Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Iron Oxides
Chroma-Lite Yellow 4502 Mica (and) Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Iron Oxides
Arganyl LS 9830 Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin
Sodium Hydroxide (solution)
expectation. Therefore, a one-size-fitsall-skin-types sunscreen cannot be the solution.
Besides the need for a high UVA1VIS protection to protect DSI from hyperpigmentation appearing later in age, another important aspect is that sunscreens
A sunscreen with SPF 30 seems reasonable to avoid excessive amounts of unnecessary UV filters
should be invisible on dark skin after application to increase user compliance. The first requirement can be achieved by using organic nanoparticulate filters such as Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) and TrisBiphenyl Triazine (TBPT). Due to their particulate nature, they can scatter UV light and reduce the transmission of UVA1 and BL in the visible light spectrum.17 However, these types of UV filters have the drawback of inducing a greyish, ashy finish on dark skin after application, which is aesthetically undesirable. This problem can be solved by adding iron oxide pigments to the formulation to mask the ashiness caused by nanoparticulate filters, improving aesthetical acceptance and subsequent compliance. Nanoparticulate filters may also contribute to direct visible light absorption.18 Therefore, a sunscreen developed for DSI should focus on high UVA-VIS protection, meaning a UVAPF to SPF ratio higher than the classical European Commission recommendation of 1/3 to 1/2 or even 2/3. In the current situation, consumers should pay attention to choosing sunscreens or day care products that have
at least the UVA logo to guarantee minimum UVA protection related to the SPF value, while waiting for more customised and better UVA protection products.
Since the natural level of photoprotection against sunburn in DSI is significantly higher than in FSI, a sunscreen with SPF 30 seems reasonable to avoid excessive amounts of unnecessary UV filters.
Table 1 shows a sunscreen formulation specifically designed for the needs of DSI. It contains iron oxide to counteract the greyish look that could arise from the particulate filter Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (TBPT), which is used for its high contribution to UVA1-VIS protection.
Making the best choice
It has been shown that using sunscreen is an important additional means of photoprotection, not only for FSI but also for DSI. A universal solution is, however, not the best option and
consumers should carefully choose the most suitable sun care product for their specific needs.
Formulators should pay special attention to UVA-VIS protection when working on formulations for DSI. Organic particulate UV filters are particularly suitable in terms of performance in the BL range. Combining them with iron oxide pigments can help to make the sun care product aesthetically more pleasing by masking the ashy effect they induce on dark skin. Formulations with SPF 30 and optimised UVA1 - BL protection seem reasonable for DSI.
Natural and Organic Ingredients • Natural & Organic Essential and Carrier oils
REFERENCES:
1. Fitzpatrick TB. The validity and practicality of sun reactive skin type through type VI. Arch Dermatol. 1988;124(6):869-71.
2. Alaluf S, Atkins D, Barrett K, Blount M, Carter N, Heath A. Ethnic variation in melanin content and composition in photoexposed and photoprotected human skin. Pigment Cell Res. 2002;15(2):112-8.
3. Montagna W, Prota G, Kenney JA. Black Skin: Structure and Function: Academic Press; 1993.
4. Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2008;84(3):539-49.
5. Ou-Yang H, Stamatas G, Kollias N. Spectral responses of melanin to ultraviolet A irradiation. Invest Dermatol. 2004;122(2):492-6.
6. Kollias N, Sayre RM, Zeise L, Chedekel MR. New trends in photobiology: photoprotection by melanin. J. Photochem. Photobiol. B. 1991;9(2):135-60.
7. Kollias N, Malallah YH, AlAjmi H, Baqer A, Johnson BE, Gonzalez S. Erythema and melanogenesis action spectra in heavily pigmented individuals as compared to fairskinned Caucasians. Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 1996;12(5):183-8.
9. Kaidbey KH, Agin PP, Sayre RM, Kligman AM. Photoprotection by melanin – comparison of black and caucasian skin. JAAD. 1979;1(3):249-60.
10. Hall HI, Rogers JD. Sun protection behaviors among African Americans. Ethn Dis. 1999;9(1):126-31.
11. Tadokoro T, Kobayashi N, Zmudzka BZ, Ito S, Wakamatsu K, Yamaguchi Y, et al. UV-induced DNA damage and melanin content in human skin differing in racial/ethnic origin. Faseb j. 2003;17(9):1177-9.
12. Buster KJ, You Z, Fouad M, Elmets C. Skin cancer risk perceptions: a comparison across ethnicity, age, education, gender, and income. Am Acad Dermatol. 2012;66(5):771-9.
13. Buchanan Lunsford N, Berktold J, Holman DM, Stein K, Prempeh A, Yerkes A. Skin cancer knowledge, awareness, beliefs, and preventive behaviors among black and hispanic men and women. Prev Med Rep. 2018; 12:203-9.
14. Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto.
15. Wright CY, Reeder AI. Youth solar ultraviolet radiation exposure, concurrent activities, and sun-protective practices: a review. Photochem Photobiol. 2005;81(6):1331-42.
16. Green AC, Wallingford SC, McBride P. Childhood exposure to ultraviolet radiation and harmful skin effects: epidemiological evidence. Prog Biophys Mol Biol. 2011;107(3):34955.
17. Sohn M, Krus S, Schnyder M, Acker S. Performance, Safety and Sustainability - All in TrisBiphenyl Triazine. SOFW Journal. 2021.
18. Schalka S, de Paula Corrêa M, Sawada LY, Canale CC, de Andrade TN. A novel method for evaluating sun visible light protection factor and pigmentation protection factor of sunscreens. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019; 12:605-16.
www.personal-care.basf.com
The surge in popularity for safe and effective preservatives stems from changing consumer preferences in favour of natural and transparent product labels. This shift is fuelled by a heightened recognition of the potential health and environmental hazards linked to conventional preservatives such as methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and formaldehyde.
Much like the personal care industry, greener preservative options have now become mainstream in household cleaning products. Mintel data shows benzisothiazolinone (BIT) started to outperform MIT in the EU and MEA with an incremental increase in home care products preserved with BIT recorded during the period from 2022 to 2023.
A safer alternative
BIT is considered a better alternative to formaldehyde and CMIT/MIT. It is widely recognised as one of the most versatile, compatible, and trusted broad spectrum preservative solutions available for the home care market.
BIT is the primary active ingredient in Arxada’s Proxel® range. Aside from single-active products based on BIT alone, the Proxel range encompasses cost-effective and specialist blends with carefully identified co-actives providing flexibility of choice for difficult-topreserve systems.
Trusted preservatives for the home
If you’re looking to make the shift to safer preservatives in your home care products, consider Arxada’s Proxel range. These cost-effective and specialist blends are proven safe for the environment and human health.
By Abby Vorster
Proxel GXL and Proxel AQ are the two options included in this range. Both preservatives have been pre-approved by the EPA for use in Safer Choice labelled products and have been reviewed by NSF International’s Sustainability Programme. For consumers, the Safer Choice logo provides recognition that the product has been evaluated for its effect on the environment and human health.
Water-based product protection
Proxel GXL preservative is a broadspectrum biocide for the preservation of industrial water-based products against spoilage from bacteria, yeasts and fungi. It is a 20% aqueous dipropylene glycol solution of 1,2-benzisothiazolin3-one. The preservative is effective in a wide range of household product applications.
Properties and advantages of PROXEL GXL:
• Halogen-free and formaldehyde-free
• Stable in the presence of alkalis and amines
• Heat stable and non-volatile
• Broad-spectrum activity
• Aqueous dipropylene glycol solution
• Long-term preservation
• Compatible with anionics.
This preservative has a non-specific mode of action, meaning bacterial resistance is unlikely. When formulating, it should be added to the system as early in the process as possible. The concentration required to adequately preserve your product depends on several factors. These include the susceptibility of the system to microbiological degradation, the extent to which micro-organisms can gain access, the species involved, pH, temperature, and length of time for which protection is required.
Did you know?
The antimicrobial action of BIT supports consumers in their desire to use cleaning products with lower concentrations of harsh chemicals. This helps them reduce the overall chemical load in their homes, making the home a safer environment for pets and humans alike.
BIT is considered a better alternative to formaldehyde and CMIT/MIT
For more information or formulation guidelines, contact Savannah Fine Chemicals, the approved distributor of Arxada’s products throughout Southern Africa.
INGREDIENT INNOVATION
THAT’S VALUE DRIVEN
INGREDIENTS THAT INSPIRE CREATIVITY
speciality chemicals, including surfactants, emulsifiers, additives & preservative systems. We represent leading global manufacturers and along with high quality products, our value added services include formulation advice, ideas & documentation support for the following key application areas:
Home care is the new self-care
My Healthy Home is a trend concept that transforms the home into a haven for all the senses.
We are increasingly cherishing our homes as the centre of our lives, as places that are astonishingly versatile. The Covid pandemic kickstarted this trend and the enhanced focus on health it prompted. For many people, this was the first time they had experienced at first hand the benefits of both working and spending leisure time in one’s own four walls – and they discovered that this new sense of home enriched their lives.
Düllberg Konzentra picks up on this trend with four floor cleaning fragrance concepts, which transform homes into places of wellbeing for all the senses.
The fear of Covid has faded, but our perception of our own four walls remains – it is a refuge and the healthy centre of our lives. Our renewed appreciation of our homes is reflected in the choices, small and large, we make for our living spaces. We choose to surround ourselves with objects that make us feel good. As well as design and function, a healthier lifestyle and sustainability have emerged as key factors. On top of this, as inflation and price increases drive up the cost of eating out, people are seriously considering whether to go to a restaurant, or whether dinner with friends at home isn’t just as nice, if not nicer.
“Once we’ve designed our homes to be multifunctional comfort zones the next step is to
share this experience with people close to us. We are observing that alongside the emergence of a renewed appreciation of our homes, there is also an upswing in interest in entertaining at home,” says Lisa-Marie Achilles.
Contributing to healthy wellbeing Against this background, it makes perfect sense that the interest in body care, health and fitness products, all of which have long been key elements in self-care routines, should now expand to encompass household products, according to Christian Lüke, marketing at Düllberg Konzentra.
“Modern household and floor cleaners are, essentially, an additional facet of self-care. They play an important role in preserving the longevity of our living spaces; they contribute to the sustainability concept, and they allow us to be relaxed hosts. In other words, they contribute to healthy wellbeing on many different levels.”
Four fragrance concepts
Inspired by this increased interest in creating cosy, inviting homes and the resulting importance of
Modern household and floor cleaners are, essentially, an additional facet of self-care
contemporary household and floor cleaners, Düllberg Konzentra has created four fragrance concepts that create a promising target group for the industry.
“Our new fragrances are aimed particularly at people who want to enrich their homes and lifestyle by adding a new, sensual dimension with consciously chosen all-purpose and floor cleaners. Most of Düllberg Konzentra’s fragrance concepts are based on natural ingredients with the purest essential oils, meaning that people can do this with a good conscience,” says Lüke.
1. Intensive Care: With harmonising lavender – which was named Medicinal Plant of the Year in 2020 othanks to its soothing and antibacterial properties –and rich almond oil, Intensive Care helps to create a peaceful, balanced ambiance. This blend creates a relaxing environment for recharging one’s batteries.
2. Super Care: With essential chamomile oil, prized as a medicinal plant since ancient times, and shea butter extracted from the fruits of the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa),
Super Care reliably transforms homes into a gently maintained haven of wellbeing.
3. Exotic Care: With ginger, coconut and monoi – coconut oil scented with tiare flowers, a traditional beauty product from French Polynesia – Exotic Care adds a hint of holiday flair to the home. Dreaming your way to a South Seas beach has never been easier.
4. Boost Fresh Mix: Thanks to its balanced composition of peppermint, spruce needle and aloe vera, Boost Fresh Mix turns the home into a place that revitalises body, mind and soul in a soothing, calming way. For a calm, refreshing boost – even on the most challenging days.
A natural, harmonious colour palette
The fragrance concept My Healthy Home is rounded off by a colour palette dominated by muted shades that exude a sense of wellbeing.
“When it comes to appealing to the senses, the visual impression plays an important supporting role. With this in mind, we developed a colour world that instantly signals naturalness and harmony,” explains Achilles.
Lüke adds: “These fragrance and colour ideas allow the cleaning product industry to create product innovations that plug into today’s key trend.”
What makes a house a home?
A bathroom that smells of the sea. A laundry fragrance that awakens childhood memories. A room scent that gives us peace.
The ability of a perfume to be psychologically vivid and strike the emotive sphere is becoming recognised by consumers as they continue to prioritise self-care.
With wellbeing taking precedence, the appeal of fragrances with proven mood enhancing benefits is growing, propelling functional fragrances forward as a global trend.
Transforming emotional landscapes with neuroscience and scent
Scent holds the power to transform the ambiance of a room. With a simple spritz, the right aromas can add a flare of electric energisation or hint of meditative relaxation to transform the emotional landscape.
The power of mood-enhancing ingredients
Fragrances that elicit emotional responses is not a new phenomenon.
Luz Vaquero, head perfumer at fragrance house Iberchem, explains: “In the same way aromatherapy and oils can aid relaxation, scents such as jasmine, lavender and chamomile have been known to enhance positive, peaceful mental states and aid
relaxation. Historically, lavender has been used medicinally as a calming herb to relieve anxiety and agitation through a serene state of mind. Consumers are actively seeking these functional scents which have been proven to have a positive impact on moods promoting feelings of relaxation, happiness and sensuality.”
This modern movement in the world of scent to actively promote wellbeing means that all
Iberchem’s perfumers are equipped with unique prospects for new fragrance solutions
Luz Vaquero, head perfumer at fragrance house Iberchem
Vasco Fontes Marques da Silva, fragrance neuroscience technology specialist within Iberchem's technologies department
Crafting body mists for the modern consumer
As the world grapples with a cost-of-living crisis, consumers are increasingly seeking experiences that are affordable yet indulgent. In the realm of fragrance, this quest for accessible luxury has sparked a notable trend: the rise of hair and body mists. P&C Africa spoke to Moellhausen perfumer, Anna Chiara Di Trolio, about the dynamics of this burgeoning trend and what inspires her when designing fragrances for the African market. By Abby Vorster
In crafting formulations that balance indulgence with affordability, selecting the right raw materials is key
Light and carefree, body mists are making a comeback. According to the 2023 Fragrance Trends Report published by Spate (a consumer trend research agency), body mists or sprays are seeing a resurgence in popularity. Online searches for body sprays jumped by 9.8% compared to 2022, and the #bodymist hashtag now has more than 1.4 billion views on TikTok.
Di Trolio, who visited South Africa last year with a delegation from Moellhausen, says
that although body mists tend to target younger generations, considering the selling price of these applications and the olfactory direction that generally distinguishes them, we can see that they will be ever so trendy in 2024.
“With their affordable price point and vibrant scent profiles, these mists are poised to resonate particularly well with the younger demographic in the African region,” she comments.
Anna Chiara Di Trolio
But what sets body and hair mists apart in meeting the evolving preferences of consumers seeking lighter fragrances? Di Trolio emphasised the role of affordability and accessibility: "The price plays a key role here. And, consequently, the easy accessibility by everyone."
Coupled with their fruity top notes and floral heart, these mists offer a compelling olfactory experience that appeals to a wide audience.
Shaping
fragrances around local preferences
in my creations when designing new fragrances and fragrance concepts for the African market,” she reflects.
Moellhausen is an Italian Fragrance house with a global footprint. It is active in over 80 countries worldwide on all five continents. The company is an inclusive industrial reference in the field of fragrance compounds, essential oils, aroma chemicals, and innovative and unconventional flavour and fragrance specialties.
Creativity and innovation are part of Moellhausen’s DNA and fuel the company’s ambition for fast and continuous development. Drawing inspiration from her travels to South Africa, Di Trolio shared her insights into designing fragrances tailored specifically for this dynamic market.
“I have wonderful memories of my trip to South Africa. The country is so sunny, colourful, and joyful. I try to represent the same mood
Di Trolio’s approach involves infusing fragrances with intensity, vibrancy and a fruity facet, which resonates with local preferences.
In crafting formulations that balance indulgence with affordability, Di Trolio says that selecting the right raw materials is key.
“The raw materials need to have a strong and immediate impact, while being able to win over the consumer at the first evaluation,” she explains. “Our formulations aim to deliver long-lasting quality without veering into the realm of generic toiletries.”
Capturing joy in the market
As Southern Africa and beyond embrace the trend of body and hair mists, it is evident that these accessible luxuries are not just a passing fad but a reflection of changing consumer preferences. With fragrances that capture the essence of joy, vibrancy and indulgence, these mists are poised to leave a lasting impression in the hearts and minds of consumers across the country.
Moellhausen – www.moellhausen.com
A natural solution for pain relief
Rhuleave-K® by Arjuna Natural represents a significant advancement in natural pain relief.
Combining the potent anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties of Curcuma longa (Curcumin) and Boswellia serrata, this innovative product utilises patented Speedtech® technology for rapid and effective pain management.
Rhuleave-K® is clinically proven to deliver fast relief comparable to conventional painkillers like Acetaminophen but without the common side effects, offering a safe and holistic alternative for managing menstrual and musculoskeletal pain.
Technology for even dispersion
The patented Speedtech® technology ensures that each component in Rhuleave-K® is evenly dispersed, maintaining potency and delivering quick action.
This technology creates a unique matrix that provides consistent and reliable pain relief, making it a standout in the realm of natural pain management solutions.
Holistic effects
Rhuleave-K®'s holistic approach to pain relief addresses not only the symptoms but also supports overall well-being. Unlike many conventional pain relievers, it is free from side effects that can affect the stomach, heart, liver, and kidneys. Its safety is well-documented even at high dosages, making it a trustworthy choice for those seeking a natural alternative to manage pain.
Clinically proven efficacy
Clinical studies have demonstrated that Rhuleave-K® provides immediate and significant pain relief, comparable to Acetaminophen. For example, a 2020 study involving 88 subjects with acute musculoskeletal pain showed notable reductions in pain intensity within just six hours of taking Rhuleave-K®.
Another study in 2022 involving 232 participants highlighted its effectiveness across various types of pain, including head, neck, and limb pain. In both cases, Rhuleave-K® delivered faster relief than the placebo, beginning as early as 40 minutes after consumption.
Empowering women's health
For women experiencing primary dysmenorrhea, Rhuleave-K® offers a natural and effective solution to alleviate menstrual discomfort. A study published in the Journal of Clinical Medicine in 2023 confirmed Rhuleave-K®'s efficacy in managing menstrual pain, providing 12.6 times better relief than a placebo.
Rhuleave-K® is available in Southern Africa from Brenntag SA.
ENDURANCE
Excipients driving pharmaceutical excellence
In the dynamic landscape of pharmaceuticals, Nitika Pharmaceutical stands out as a leader in excipient manufacturing, contributing significantly to the industry’s global footprint.
As a premier Indian pharmaceutical company, Nitika exports its high-quality products to over 90 countries, leveraging a robust network and distribution channels. The company recently inaugurated India's largest manufacturing plant, specialising in customised excipients and pre-mixes. With a yearly installed capacity of 17 000MT and automated cutting-edge technology, the production facility marks a significant leap in production capabilities. In Southern Africa, Nitika is represented by CJP Chemicals.
Customer-centric approach
At the heart of Nitika's success is an unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction. The company focuses on delivering top-notch products at a reasonable cost, supported by timely deliveries and dedicated after-sales support. Nitika's dedicated experts, coupled with a proven track record and sophisticated instruments, underscore the company's commitment to excellence.
Spray dried microcrystalline cellulose
A flagship product of Nitika, TABCELL Microcrystalline Cellulose (spray dried) USP/BP/EP is available in various grades (101, 102, 112, and 200). Its key
features include excellent flowability, free from black particles, consistent quality (maintained by Nitika MCC 101), superior whiteness index, and outstanding compressibility. These attributes ensure a seamless tablet manufacturing process and a visually appealing final product.
Magnesium stearate
Nitika’s TABLUBE Magnesium Stearate USP/ BP/EP, holding the first position in Asia and the second globally to file USDMF for this product, is a vegetablesource excipient with USDMF and RSPO certification.
Noteworthy features include specific particle size distribution and surface area, high whiteness index (>90%), high batchto-batch consistency, and reproducible bulk density. TABLUBE empowers formulators to achieve precision and consistency in their formulations.
Sodium stearyl fumarate
As a specialised tablet lubricant, Novalube USP/BP/EP addresses various formulation and manufacturing challenges encountered with other lubricants. Its advantages include minimal impact on dissolution and disintegration rates,
Nitika’s commitment to innovation and customer satisfaction.
Diverse range and regulatory compliance
Nitika Pharmaceutical also offers a range of antacids, actives, and mineral salts, ensuring compliance with pharmacopeial standards. The company provides comprehensive support for regulatory requirements, reflecting its vision of ensuring a ‘happy customer’ through the delivery of top-quality pharmaceutical products. The company’s journey is marked by innovation, dedication, and a relentless pursuit of excellence. As a specialised tablet lubricant, Novalube USP/BP/EP addressess various formulation and manufacturing challenges
robustness to over-lubrication, high API compatibility, and ease of manufacturing. These benefits make Novalube an ideal choice for tablet formulation, aligning with
Microcrystalline Cellulose (MCC) R591 is a versatile, high-purity, naturally derived excipient extensively used in the pharmaceutical and food industries. Due to its unique physicochemical properties, such as high compressibility, binding capability, and excellent flow characteristics, MCC R591 plays a crucial role in a wide range of applications.
Pharmaceutical Applications:
• Direct Compression Binder: MCC R591 is widely used as a direct compression binder in tablet formulations due to its exceptional compressibility. Its ability to form strong, compact tablets without the need for wet granulation reduces manufacturing steps and costs.
• Disintegration and Flow Aid: MCC R591 facilitates rapid tablet disintegration, ensuring quick release of active ingredients. Additionally, it improves flow properties, making it an ideal choice for high-speed tablet production processes.
• Carrier for Active Ingredients: Due to its high surface area and moisture-wicking capabilities, MCC R591 serves as an excellent carrier for liquid or semi-solid active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), aiding in uniform distribution during formulation.
• Stability Enhancer: MCC is chemically inert and stable, making it suitable for sensitive drug formulations where stability is a priority. It also offers compatibility with a wide range of APIs and excipients.
• Controlled Release Systems: In sustained-release formulations, MCC R591 can be used as a matrix former, helping in the controlled release of drugs, thus optimizing therapeutic efficacy and reducing dosing frequency.
Food Applications:
• Texturizer and Stabilizer: MCC R591 is used in the food industry as a texturizing agent, providing creaminess and viscosity to various food products like sauces, desserts, and dressings. Its stabilizing properties ensure uniform texture and prevent ingredient separation.
With a low-caloric content, MCC R591 is utilized as a fat substitute in low-fat and calorie-reduced food formulations. It helps maintain the mouthfeel and sensory properties of fat-rich foods, such as dairy products and baked goods.
In powdered foods, MCC R591 acts as an anti-caking agent, preventing the formation of lumps and ensuring free flow during storage and
MCC R591 serves as a source of dietary fiber in various food products, promoting digestive health without altering the taste or texture of the food.
Nitika Pharmaceutical – nitikapharma.com
Ensure safety and quality with advanced measurement solutions
Imagine trying to measure the level of a liquid in a boiling cauldron surrounded by swirling vapours and corrosive fumes. This is a daily reality for instrumentation in pharmaceutical manufacturing.
Accurate and dependable measurement tools for pharmaceutical processes are crucial. High safety and quality standards are required for these processes, with manufacturing involving a series of processing stages carried out in a potential environment that adheres to strict production guidelines and environmental regulations. In short, during pharmaceutical manufacturing, there is no room for error. The radar antennae of instrumentation can be prone to dirt deposits and crystallisation while obtaining precise level measurements can be complicated. Complications are often caused by obstacles such as process vessels and reactors. The size, shape, and installation environment of tanks, and mechanical factors, often pose difficulties for level sensors. Surfaces within reactors and mixers are frequently in motion and can be turbulent, adding to the complexity.
To overcome these challenges and consistently achieve reliable and precise measured values, pharmaceutical manufacturers work with VEGA.
Reliable level measurement
Safety and quality are non-negotiable in pharmaceutical production, because products must meet exceptionally high standards to ensure
patient safety. Parameters such as level and pressure can save batches, particularly in storage tanks and reactors. In the mixing stages, reliable level measurement ensures a continuous supply of active ingredients to the filling machines. Overfill protection is provided by a level detection system in collecting vessels, highlighting safety and precision throughout the production chain. For this reason, numerous sensors are required to monitor production.
In the storage tanks and reactors, it is mainly parameters such as level and pressure that are of interest. Several pharmaceutical manufacturers across the globe have opted for VEGA sensors in their production facilities. One such manufacturer reported using mainly VEGAPULS non-contact radar sensors and VEGAFLEX guided wave radar sensors on its raw material and wastewater tanks. Since VEGA introduced the VEGAPULS 6X, various manufacturers have started using it in their reactors.
The VEGAPULS 42 compact radar sensor is versatile for continuous level measurement in active substance reservoirs and in capsule reservoirs. It is specifically designed for noncontact level measurement of liquids and bulk solids in straightforward to moderate
applications. Installation effort is reduced with the optional universal connection for hygienic adapters. The universal connection also streamlines inventory management, meeting the strict requirements of hygienic processing in the pharmaceutical industry. Equipped with IO-Link, it provides continuous digital data transmission. This cost-effective solution ensures uninterrupted capsule filling thanks to its reliable measurement capabilities. Its user-friendly design allows for automatic filling through continuous monitoring of storage containers.
Several pharmaceutical manufacturers across the globe have opted for VEGA sensors in their production facilities
Dependable limit detection
The VEGAPOINT 31 is a cost-effective limit switch designed for light bulk solids applications. It features a capacitive point level sensor, making it ideal for monitoring point levels in collecting containers for filled capsules. With its straightforward operation and optical switching display, it offers reliable detection of limit levels regardless of the medium present. Its compact design is suited to tight spaces, and the optional universal connection for hygiene adapters reduces installation effort and inventory needs,
meeting the hygienic processing requirements of the pharma industry. The VEGAPOINT 31 can be used without adjustment and offers continuous digital data transmission via IO-Link.
Pressure transmitters have diverse applications within multi-product facilities, including feed lines for transporting finished products to storage tanks. The VEGABAR 82 serves the dual purpose of controlling production processes and monitoring nitrogen neutralisation. In areas with highly aggressive substances, the VEGABAR 82, which
features a ceramic diaphragm, is paired with PVDF process fittings and FFKM seals. It is capable of measuring pressures ranging from vacuum to 15 bar overpressure. For main storage tanks, typically 8m to 15m in height and 2m to 3m in diameter, various VEGA-level sensors can be installed to monitor and control a range of products, including raw materials, solvents and acids.
Did you know?
VEGA is a reliable partner to ensure your adherence to good manufacturing practice. This is thanks to its continuous monitoring of all production processes and routine inspection and testing of its sensors. The basis for routine testing is VEGA’s quality management in compliance with ISO 9001 and its environmental management programme based on ISO 14001.
VEGA understands the complexities of pharmaceutical manufacturing, from the precise mixing of ingredients to the product, with each step playing a critical role in ensuring quality.
VEGA's reliable instrumentation and sensors provide manufacturers with the accurate measurements needed to optimise every stage of the process.
FROM
For level applications with maximum hygienic standards, perfection can be achieved with extensive cleaning or, make it simple, just use a
