Rambutan programme highlights the potential of frugal innovation

By its definition, the word ‘frugal’ points to reducing waste and using resources less wastefully. Ultimately, cost savings and a simplification of processes should come from this. In the context of the cosmetics industry, it has highlighted the need for more responsible sourcing of raw materials. BASF’s rambutan programme remains an excellent example of what frugal innovation can achieve.

A S A SOCIALLY and environmentally responsible supply chain for the sustainable production of bio-actives, the rambutan programme sees BASF working in close cooperation with partners in Vietnam. BASF sources the ingredients, which are extracted from rambutan trees (Nephelium lappaceum), growing in Vietnam’s first organically certified rambutan gardens. Through this programme, BASF has a positive impact on Vietnamese rural society by upcycling different parts of the tree, other than the fruit. The programme also ensures gender equity among the Vietnamese workers, who receive a fair income, are guaranteed safer working conditions and provided with health insurance. For brand owners and manufacturers, the rambutan programme provides a means to respond to demands for responsible beauty and the ecoresponsible aspirations of today’s consumers.

IN SUPPORT OF RESPONSIBLE BEAUTY

An interdisciplinary innovation platform at BASF focuses exclusively on extracting valuable substances from the rambutan plant material. “Plants are at the heart of BASF’s value proposition. Our commitment to further improving our sourcing network drives innovation within the business to develop new products from sustainably sourced plants,” says Lucilene Veira Nunes, head of business management beauty care solutions Europe. “We have harnessed the experience gained from our argan programme, which was started in 2005 in Southern Morocco, to enhance the rambutan programme.”

In 2015, BASF set up the rambutan programme, which involves a network of Vietnamese farmers. There is also a dedicated rambutan team, which maintains the gardens throughout the year, harvests fruit and prepares all the raw materials for the extraction of the bioactive ingredients. The rambutan is a close relative of lychee tree. In Asia, it is known for various powerful benefits. The tree’s juicy fruits are rich in iron, vitamin C, fibres and antioxidants, and have long been used to quell dysentery. The rinds contain various compounds with antioxidant properties and the seeds are known to decrease unwanted fat. The pulp is said to boost energy and immunity, prevent disease and contribute to eliminating free radicals.

BASF has found a way to extract the powers of the peel, leaves and seeds, utilising all the components while ensuring zero waste. The three bio-actives – Nephydrat, Nephoria and Rambuvital – are produced from the extracts for use in cosmetic products. The bio-actives are preservative-free, 100% of natural origin and COSMOS-approved. BASF’s unique extraction and purification process yields a product with standardised active matter content. For the seed and leaf extracts, a combination of maltodextrin and spray drying delivers concentrated extracts with a recommended use level in formulations of only 0.1%. The recommended use level of the liquid peel extract is 2%.

PEEL EXTRACT FOR SKIN HYDRATION

Nephydrat, an extract from the spiny fruit peel, reinforces the skin’s capacity for water retention and helps to hydrate the skin. This noticeable effect has been proven in tests on volunteers. The extract fuels keratinocytes with energy and increases phospholipids and long chain ceramide synthesis for an optimal skin barrier function. Nephydrat provides measurable and perceivable benefits of increased skin hydration and a uniform, fresh complexion.

The peel of the fruit with its spikey tentacles is prized for having a high content of antioxidants

LEAF EXTRACT FOR SKIN REJUVENATION

The extract of evergreen-leaves, Nephoria helps promote the rejuvenation of mature skin through biological pathways similar to those of retinol. Acting on several major biological targets involved in collagen synthesis and the elastin fibre network, the leaf extract stimulates in vitro the formation collagen and elastin fibres. In vivo study results showed Nephoria increased skin elasticity and reduced wrinkles.

SEED EXTRACT FOR SCALP AND HAIR

The seed extract Rambuvital protects both the scalp and hair follicles against pollution-induced stress. It increases hair follicle vitality and reduces sebum oxidation triggered by exposure to pollutants and UV. The seed extract enhances the cornified scalp’s barrier function, contributing to water retention by increasing transglutaminase-1 and loricrin synthesis in keratinocytes. In vivo study results showed a significant increase in scalp hydration within one month of applying a Rambuvital-based treatment while the hair appeared and felt visibly healthier and shinier. •

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za