Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q4 2024

Page 1


5 NEWS

Strategic partnership for Engel and ESM

First whole human genome sequenced in Nigeria

Uniclay shows new benefits for acne-prone skin

6 DIARY

What’s on in Jan, Feb & March 2025

8 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

Measurment solutions for encapsulation

9 PRESERVATIVES

Discover versatility with Iscaguard OP New Sharon Aquavita vitamin-based system

12 PERFUMERY & FRAGRANCES

Trends driving innovation and sustainability

14 HAIR CARE

Frugal innovations from AECI Specialty Chemicals

17 SKINCARE

Game-changing water-soluble sunscreen technology

Gentle cleansing with NatraFusion SL HA

Formulation insights for Africa

Our quarterly trade magazine, P&C Review Africa is a great tool to build awareness of solutions that are ideal for the African personal care and pharma manufacturing industries. In this edition we explore the importance of preservatives in cosmetic products. If you’re looking for a mild, versatile and effective preservative for personal care formulations, Iscaguard OP is a good solution for your microbial protection needs. Another option is Sharon Aquavita. This innovative vitaminbased preservative system is set to redefine product protection. You can read more about these solutions on page 9 If you’re interested in learning more about the trends driving innovation and sustainability in fragrances. We spoke to Marc vom Ende, a senior perfumer at Symrise, who offers readers a glimpse into the future of this remarkable industry. Turn to page 12 for more.

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

We also look at ingredient innovations that are changing formulation dynamics in skincare and hair care. You can learn about SunBeat NP, a valuable water-soluble sunscreen technology that remains stable across various pH levels. AECI Specialty Chemicals shares frugal formulations for different formats of hair food that provide moisturisation, manageability and scalp protection. Croda Beauty shares insight into NatraFusion SL HA, an ultra-mild sophorolipid biosurfactant that addresses sensitive skincare needs with its exceptional cleansing properties.

Enjoy the read!

AECI Specialty Chemicals 15 www.aeciworld.com/specialty-chemicals

Chempack Industries 9 www.cpack.co.za

CJP Chemicals 11 www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Croda Beauty 19 https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb

IMCD SA 18 www.imcdsa.co.za

Nautica Organics OBC www.nauticaorganics.com

Symrise 13 www.symrise.com

VEGA Controls SA OFC https://www.vega.com/en-za/industries/pharmaceutical

Engel and Electronica Plastic Machines enter strategic partnership

THE ENGEL GROUP, a leading supplier of injection moulding technology, has entered a strategic partnership with Electronica Plastic Machines (EPM), a manufacturer of hydraulic injection moulding machines based in India. By acquiring a stake in EPM, the company becomes part of the Engel Group, creating opportunities for closer cooperation in the Indian market.

EPM, a second-generation family business based in Pune, has been recognised for its expertise in the Indian plastics machinery industry for over 30 years. ENGEL and EPM share a common mindset, which emphasises family ownership, sustainable business practices, and a people-first approach. This alignment provides a strong foundation for the partnership.

The collaboration focuses on strengthening production and innovation in India, particularly through the ‘Make in India’ initiative. EPM’s manufacturing facility in Pune will serve as a hub to produce advanced injection moulding machines tailored to the specific needs of the Indian market. In addition, the partnership opens opportunities to export Indian-manufactured machines to regions such as the Middle East and Africa.

The collaboration promises Engel customers better access to advanced technology, locally manufactured machines designed to meet market-specific requirements and improved after-sales service and support. By combining Engel’s global expertise with EPM’s strong local presence, customers will benefit from reduced lead times, competitive pricing, and an expanded product portfolio.

Managing director of EPM, Aditya Ratnaparkhi will continue to lead the company in this role, ensuring continuity and stability. The Engel Group will provide access to its global network and technical expertise, while maintaining EPM’s independence and strong reputation in the market.

“Our goal is to support EPM’s growth while preserving its strong identity,” says Dr Stefan Engleder, CEO of the Engel. “We are united by shared values and a commitment to sustainable and long-term success.”

This cooperation represents a significant step in Engel’s strategy to strengthen its regional presence and develop tailored solutions for local markets. With a shared vision and complementary strengths, Engel and EPM are well-positioned for sustainable growth and innovation.

The EPM and Engel management teams

Romaco announces new group CFO and MD

ANN-XIAOYAN LI HAS BEEN appointed group CFO and managing director of the Romaco Group. She succeeds Markus Kimpel, who has stepped out of the company at his own request.

Romaco is an international manufacturer of processing and packaging technologies for the pharmaceutical, food and chemical industries. In her new role, Ann-Xiaoyan will be responsible for finance and controlling, HR services and IT management at Romaco Holding as well as finance and controlling at the Romaco Group’s six production sites and 10 international sales and service centers.

“I’m delighted we’ve been able to get Ann-Xiaoyan Li on board the management of the Romaco Group and as group CFO,” explained Jens Torkel, managing director of Romaco Group. “She impressed me with her clear and pragmatic style of leadership, which is just what we need to gain optimal benefit from the synergistic effects within the group and boost our internal efficiency. Her presence on the management team will allow us to continue standardising processes throughout our decentralised corporate structure as we drive the expansion of our worldwide service network.”

Ann-Xiaoyan can draw on extensive management experience as CFO at various mid-market companies in the automotive and commercial vehicle sectors. Among other things, she can look back on over five years in charge of financial affairs at a traditional German manufacturer of automotive lighting systems. She initially completed a bachelor’s degree in international finance at Northwest University in Xi’an, China, before going on to study for a bachelor and master of business administration at Bielefeld University, Germany.

“I’m looking forward to my new tasks at this oldestablished and yet highly dynamic, globally operating group of companies,” Ann-Xiaoyan emphasised. “I see myself as a reliable partner to the business units, sales and service centres and specialist departments that report to me, all of which are united by a common goal – to generate growth and tap into new markets with a proactive approach and strategic solutions.”

First

whole human genome sequenced in Nigeria

THE INSTITUTE OF Genomics and Health at Redeemer’s University – formerly known as African Centre of Excellence for Genomics of Infectious Diseases (ACEGID) – has successfully sequenced an entire human genome for the first time on Nigerian soil.

This momentous milestone comes at the time of the official opening of the Genomics and Bioinformatics training Academy within ACEGID at Redeemer’s University. This facility will significantly increase the supply of qualified technical workforce for nextgeneration sequencing wet lab management, bioinformatics, big data analytics and advanced artificial intelligence/machine learning applications.

Despite Africa being the birthplace of humanity and harbouring immense genetic diversity, less than 2% of human genomes analysed so far have been from African people.1

Using Illumina’s NovaSeq X Plus sequencer, more than 20 000 whole genomes can be sequenced each year. This is 2.5 times the throughput of NovaSeq 6000, making projects like this one possible.

“Successfully sequencing a whole human genome at The Institute of Genomics and Health is a significant milestone as from here we will be able to grow our understanding of genetic diversity and ancestry of African populations which is currently underrepresented in genomic research,” said Dr Happi, director of the Institute of Genomics and Health.

The Institute has successfully sequenced 11 human samples on the NovaSeq X Plus and analysed them on the Illumina DRAGEN secondary analysis platform. All samples passed the threshold for a high quality human whole genome equivalent.

The inclusion of diverse African populations can create inclusive and relevant scientific knowledge, which challenges potential historical bias in medical research.

“This groundbreaking achievement marks a significant step forward in our understanding of genetic diversity and ancestry of African populations and human genetics in general,” said Gretchen Weightman, Illumina’s senior vice president of the Asia-Pacific, Middle East & Africa region.

The Institute of Genomics and Health and Illumina entered a partnership agreement to establish a genomics training academy at Redeemer’s University in 2003. The delivery last year of the first Illumina NovaSeq X Plus in Africa to The Institute of Genomics and Health was an important milestone to embedding genomics capability within Africa.

REFERENCE:

1. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666979X23000381

This biotech ingredient helps to obtain a cleaner, smoother and more beautiful skin in different ethnicities
Uniclay shows new benefits or acne-prone skin

Lubrizol announces the results of a new clinical study, which demonstrates the efficacy of Uniclay™ biotech ingredient to improve the appearance of acne-prone skin in a rinse-off application. This environmentally friendly biotech ingredient promises to transform the facial cleansing segment with its purifying and regenerative properties. Derived from a unique microorganism found in the clay of Spain's Aiguamolls de l’Emporda natural park, Uniclay™ biotech ingredient has been known for its exceptional skin-purifying properties. Mimicking the effects clays have on the skin, this biotech ingredient helps to obtain a cleaner, smoother and more beautiful skin in different ethnicities.

The recent placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical study has proved that a facial cleanser containing Uniclay™ biotech ingredient improved the skin appearance of women and men with acne-prone skin after just one week. Notably, there was a marked reduction in red spots and irregular texture, with lasting effects observed even after participants stopped using the product.

Further results from the study revealed the ability of Uniclay™ biotech ingredient to effectively reduce facial pore size, smooth rough skin texture, and minimise oiliness, while enhancing the skin's barrier function – which is essential for maintaining overall skin health.

A study with volunteers also showed that when enhancing skin appearance, using the ingredient can positively impact emotional wellbeing and self-perception. This is important considering the immense impact acne has on an individual’s mental wellbeing.

Reinforcing Lubrizol's commitment to developing cutting-edge skin care solutions, Uniclay™ biotech ingredient is featured in a range of rinse-off formulations including active ingredients to cleanse the face while taking care of the skin. The first sample formulations containing ingredients like Uniclay™ biotech ingredient, Xpozuki™ biotech ingredient, Lipochroman™ molecule and Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient are already available online: https://www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care/ Campaigns/Active-Clean. Lubrizol proudly offers solutions that truly make a difference and cater to the evolving needs of beauty consumers.

Dr Happi, director of the Institute of Genomics and Health
Ann-Xiaoyan Li, new CFO and MD of Romaco Group

Encapsulation at its best

The role of innovative measurement solutions is paramount as manufacturers strive to meet stringent standards and ensure the highest quality. VEGA’s sensors are the unsung heroes behind the scenes, optimising pharmaceutical manufacturing by ensuring precise and reliable measurements.

Accurate measurement is essential in the pharmaceutical industry, where manufacturers must meet rigorous regulatory standards. There is no margin for error, and accuracy to the milligram is not negotiable. Pharmaceutical manufacturing involves a range of challenging processes: high temperatures, condensation, chemically aggressive vapours and substances. Radar antennae of instrumentation are exposed to these conditions, often causing dirt buildup and crystallisation, which makes precise level measurements nearly impossible. The size, shape and installation environments of tanks, along with various mechanical factors, can complicate the functioning of level sensors.

The encapsulation process is the same. During encapsulation, reliable level measurement ensures a continuous supply of raw capsules and active ingredient pellets to filling machines. Capsules

are loosely stuck together and, after separation, filled with pellets in the lower part. After filling, capsules are transported to collecting vessels, where a level detection system serves as overfill protection, enabling precision during this process.

Trusted measurement solutions

Pharmaceutical manufacturers worldwide are opting for VEGA sensors in their production facilities. One VEGA client, which is a pharmaceutical manufacturer, primarily uses VEGAPULS non-contact radar sensors and the VEGAFLEX guided wave radar sensors on its raw material and wastewater tanks. Since the introduction of the VEGAPULS 6X, various manufacturers have followed suit. The VEGAPULS 6X is highly versatile

VEGA recognises the intricate nature of pharmaceutical manufacturing where every detail matters

in providing a non-contact, continuous-level measurement solution for bulk liquids and solids and has been deployed with great success in various scenarios in the pharmaceutical industry. During the encapsulation process, reliable and accurate level measurements in substance reservoirs and capsule storage vessels are possible, and inventory management becomes more efficient, aligning with the requirements and regulations set for pharmaceutical manufacturers. The IO-Link capability ensures ongoing digital data transmission, while the 6X guarantees effective capsule filling due to its dependable measurement accuracy. Its intuitive design also facilitates automatic filling by continuously monitoring storage levels.

Inside the encapsulation process

The VEGAPOINT 31 limit switch is designed for light bulk solids applications, making it a perfect choice for monitoring point levels in containers filled with capsules.

This capacitive point level sensor offers simple operation and features an optical switching display for reliable limit detection, regardless of the medium involved. Thanks to its compact design, it fits easily into tight spaces. The optional universal connection for hygiene adapters facilitates smoother installation while adhering to hygienic process standards. The VEGAPOINT 31 operates without the need for adjustments and provides continuous digital data transmission via IO-Link.

Options for pressure management

Pressure transmitters play a vital role in multiproduct facilities, especially in managing the

feed lines that transport finished products to storage tanks.

The VEGABAR 82 not only controls production processes but also monitors nitrogen neutralisation effectively. In environments where highly aggressive substances are present, the VEGABAR 82 is equipped with a ceramic diaphragm and is compatible with PVDF process fittings and FFKM seals. This reliable device can measure pressures from a vacuum up to 15 bar overpressure. For main storage tanks – typically measuring between 8m to 15m in height and 2m to 3m in diameter – various VEGA-level sensors can be implemented to oversee and regulate a wide array of products, including raw materials, solvents and acids.

Solutions to improve operations

VEGA recognises the intricate nature of pharmaceutical manufacturing where every detail matters, from the precise blending of ingredients to encapsulation of the final product. Each step is crucial in guaranteeing the quality of the medication. With VEGA’s dependable instrumentation and sensors, manufacturers obtain the accurate measurements essential for optimising each phase of the process. This ultimately leads to improved consistency and higher quality medication for patients.

The VEGABAR 82 ensures accurate pressure measurement in demanding process conditions

Discover versatility with Iscaguard OP

Iscaguard preservatives are formulated to offer broad-spectrum protection using optimised and innovative synergistic blends.

If you’re looking for a mild, versatile and effective preservative for personal care formulations, Iscaguard OP is a good solution for your microbial protection needs. This liquid preservative blend is based on caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.

Application diversity

One of the standout features of Iscaguard OP is its broad-spectrum efficacy. It effectively guards against yeasts, moulds, fungi and bacteria, making it highly efficient in various formulations. This extensive

protection is attributed to its ability to inhibit gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria and control yeast and mould growth, ensuring the longevity and safety of personal care products.

A distinctive advantage of Iscaguard OP is the inclusion of phenoxyethanol, which provides additional preservative power where it's needed most.

The versatility of this preservative shines through as it is suitable for a wide range of applications, including shampoos, shower gels, creams, lotions

Iscaguard OP stands out as a versatile and reliable preservative

and emulsions. It also caters to more sensitive uses such as eye care, lip care, and even products designed for children under three years old.

Formulation flexibility

IIscaguard OP operates effectively within a pH range of 4.0 to 8.0, demonstrating its flexibility across different formulations and pH levels.

It is free from parabens, thiazolinones, and formaldehyde, making it a safe and environmentally friendly choice for modern personal care formulations.

Available throughout Southern Africa from Chempack Industries, Iscaguard OP stands out as a versatile and reliable preservative, catering to a wide array of personal care products with its broadspectrum protection and formulation flexibility. By incorporating Iscaguard OP, formulators can ensure microbial stability while maintaining the integrity and effectiveness of their products.

We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products!

High Quality

Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes

Cosmetics Consumables

Chempack Industries

Contact: Linda Thieme

083 600 0167

064 610 2736

Email: linda@cpack.co.za

Website: www.cpack.co.za

Iscaguard – iscaguard.com
Chempack Industries –

Innovative vitaminbased system to redefine cosmetic preservation

Sharon Aquavita® is setting a new benchmark in cosmetic preservation with its innovative, vitamin-based system. Combining niacinamide’s proven benefits with advanced antimicrobial technology, this eco-friendly and globally approved solution addresses the rising demand for clean, science-backed formulations.

Consumers are becoming more sophisticated, and this is reflected in their expectations of personal care products.

The conflicting approach to preservation shows us that while consumers understand preservation is mandatory, they still desire preservative-free or at least natural or clean products – and the supposed blacklist of ingredients continues to grow every year. Add to this the expectations of Generation Z for eco-conscious and ethical design in beauty and personal care products.

Recent studies indicate that natural and clean ingredients are increasingly being recognised for their clinically proven effectiveness, while consumers are expecting science backed formulations and ingredients. Combining these demands into a solution is no easy feat.

Developed by Sharon Personal Care, Sharon Aquavita® is the first and only vitamin-based multifunctional preservation system resulting

from the search for new antimicrobial synergies. A niacinamide based system brings consumers recognisable INCI with a vitamin being the core. The added plus points are it’s biodegradable and vegan.

Sharon Aquavita® is a globally approved, broad spectrum multifunctional preservation system with proven skin benefits. The unique and scientifically substantiated mode of action supports its preservation efficacy, while its performance as a skincare ingredient supports a minimalistic approach in formulation design.

Two products have been developed in this line:

1. Sharon Aquavita® 90 (INCI: Niacinamide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Decylene Glycol)

2. Sharon Aquavita® 95 (INCI: Niacinamide, Polylysine).

Scientific and clinical validation data

The preservation efficacy studies of Sharon Aquavita® are demonstrated the following:

• MIC data

• challenge tests studies in a wide range of applications

Sharon Aquavita® is the first and only vitamin-based multifunctional preservation system

• challenge tests on a wider range of microorganisms beyond the mandatory pharmacopeia list

• a checkerboard analysis to prove synergy. The efficacy of Sharon Aquavita® is based on how it acts on the DNA of micro-organisms. Mode of action research has demonstrated the effect of Sharon Aquavita® on microorganisms DNA with a study showing morphological changes and cell cycle arrest, as well as the inhibition efficacy of this system.

At a level of 5%, Sharon Aquavita® 90 and 95 were clinically evaluated on 20 volunteers for the cutaneous acceptability of a cosmetic product. The results showed both preservative systems to be very well tolerated.

The novelty of science

A multi-faceted scientific novelty supports the Sharon Aquavita® line, which is patent pending. The inherent multifunctionality of such a system creates a precedent in the field of preservation.

Most compounds used for cosmetic preservation are often viewed negatively.

The use of a vitamin (niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3) as the main component of a new preservative solution is likely to invert this negative perception to a positive one.

A WORLD FIRST

Sharon Aquavita® is the world’s first vitaminbased multifunctional preservation system. It offers these formulation advantages:

• Truly multifunctional

• Hydro soluble

• Active ingredient

• Eco-friendly

• Globally approved.

Sharon Personal Care’s quest for synergistic interactions was one of the key elements that allowed its R&D team to turn a practically inert substance into a mild, green, safe, and sustainable antimicrobial preservative solution.

The enhanced hydrophilicity of the Sharon Aquavita® line mediated its antimicrobial activity via a novel mechanism of action, bringing its efficacy into the very heart of micro-organisms. This targets the microorganisms’ ability to reproduce, rather than merely interfering with their membrane integrity, as in most of the reported preservative substances so far.

Sustainability credentials

Available throughout Southern Africa from CJP Chemicals, Sharon Aquavita® can be considered a sustainable ingredient from several standpoints. Its water solubility simplifies the formulation avoiding the need to add a solubiliser.

Its multifunctionality helps the formulator to optimise efficacy versus the simplicity of formulation design.

This preservative line is powder-based, supporting a waterless formulation, and it is readily biodegradable.

Sharon Aquavita® can be leveraged across different categories, such as skincare, hair care and baby care. This preservative line can be adjusted according to the manufacturer’s needs and desired claims.

Smart Preservation for Wet Wipes.

Sharowipes Line offers a breakthrough scientific technology, providing protection to both the formula and the non-woven fabric.

Trends driving innovation and sustainability in fragrances

The fragrance industry is constantly evolving, always in search of new trends and innovations to captivate people’s senses and enhance their olfactory experiences. We spoke to Marc vom Ende, senior perfumer at Symrise, for a glimpse into the future. By

Fragrances go beyond simply providing pleasant scents; they play a crucial role in enhancing mood, boosting self-confidence, and adding a special touch to everyday life.

Consumers integrate fragrances into their daily routines to elevate ordinary habits into delightful sensory journeys, allowing them to connect with their senses and others on a deeper level.

In South Africa, the fragrance industry is booming. Marc has been designing fragrances for this market since the early ‘90s. Over time, he has discovered that South African consumers remain loyal to the scents they adore. For instance, some local fragrances and deo body sprays, created close on two decades ago, continue to be top sellers.

With social media and internet access influencing global fragrance trends, Marc notes that the luxurious perfume culture of the Middle East significantly impacts new product development in South Africa. This trend includes the popularity of ambery notes, innovative interpretations of vanilla with fruity nuances, and the blending of ambery notes with floral transparency to introduce a fresh aspect to fragrance innovation, alongside the desire for potent scents.

“South African consumers appreciate powerful fragrances. When they enter a room, their fragrance must make a statement,” says Marc.

“This preference for strong scents is also noticeable in public spaces.”

Committed to sustainability

In today's environmentally conscious world, Symrise's team of experts not only focus on identifying trends and understanding consumer preferences but also emphasise a strong commitment to sustainability.

As a research perfumer, Marc collaborates closely with Symrise’s R&D team to create new sustainable molecules for use in fragrances. These molecules should be biodegradable, renewable, and should not interfere with flavour and fragrance.

“One area where Symrise is achieving great success is in exploring waste streams and upcycling for new molecule development,” Marc explains.

South African consumers appreciate powerful fragrances

Marc vom Ende, senior perfumer at Symrise

A notable example is a waste stream from the paper industry. On its website, Symrise highlights that terpene-based ingredients such as citronellol, geraniol, dihydromyrcenol, and linalool are key raw materials, featured in approximately 30% of all fragrance blends sold to customers. One primary material is raw sulfate turpentine oil, a byproduct of the paper industry. In the southeastern US, Symrise extracts this material through a green chemistry process using a complex procedure. According to Symrise, this was the first liquid product to receive the globally recognised FSC forest protection certificate, previously awarded only to paper and wood products.

roots and leaves. They then combined machine data and sensory analysis to create a series of perfumes: Cloud of the Roots, Cloud of the Tree Stem, and Cloud of the Tree Crown. These scents were synthesised to craft a One Tree ID perfume for 10 different tree species, which are available for purchase online.

A mentor for aspiring perfumers

When Marc isn't crafting consumer fragrances for South African brands or collaborating with international artists on creative projects, he dedicates his time to mentoring aspiring perfumers at the Symrise Perfumery School. Here, he helps mould the next generation of fragrance innovators.

Beyond consumer products

It's fascinating to observe how fragrances transcend consumer products, becoming a medium for artistic expression and enhancing experiences, like setting the mood in an art exhibition or creating immersive olfactory environments.

Marc has played a key role in several of these innovative fragrance projects. One notable project, conceptualised by Agnes Meyer-Brandis, is ‘One Tree ID’ – a biochemical and biopoetic scent communication experiment. This project transforms the unique characteristics of specific trees into perfumes. By capturing the volatile organic compounds emitted by trees and using chamber measurements, the project team identified the molecule clouds from a tree's stem,

Since 2010, Marc has led the perfumery school, located in Holzminden, Germany. The school offers an intensive three-year programme focused on mentoring, training and nurturing emerging talent, rooted in the fundamentals of perfumery.

In the ever-evolving world of fragrance, Symrise’s trainee perfumers are prepared to bring creative ideas and contemporary fragrance solutions to the company’s diverse and discerning customer base. They can also build on the company's rich history, which has influenced the perfume industry with groundbreaking innovations such as the exquisite de Laire bases, some of the first synthetic fragrance materials, and the pioneering commercialised fragrances developed using artificial intelligence. Symrise

Maison Lautier 1795, Symrise’s new natural ingredients brand is reimagining the elements of natural perfumery by connecting the crafts and métiers of the past with the innovations of the future.

@symrise_finefragrancestories

@symrisefinefragrance

A pioneer in sustainable innovation

In the dynamic and competitive world of personal and home care products, the role of chemical companies has evolved from mere suppliers of raw materials to indispensable partners in innovation.

AECI Specialty Chemicals is at the heart of this transformation with its unparalleled technical expertise. It drives manufacturers and brand owners to meet current market demands while anticipating and shaping future trends. This technical prowess is the lifeblood of AECI Specialty Chemicals, setting it apart in a crowded market and enabling it to deliver highperformance solutions, which resonate with consumers and manufacturers alike.

The supplier’s expertise in personal care and home care is rooted in a deep understanding of chemistry, formulation science and material performance. Its ability to design innovative formulations for the African market forms the foundation for new product development.

A foundation built on science

In an industry where consumer preferences and regulatory landscapes are constantly evolving, R&D plays a critical role in ensuring that products not only meet safety and efficacy standards but also deliver sensory and functional benefits. Whether it’s developing a new shampoo with superior foaming properties or formulating a biodegradable personal care product that aligns with sustainability goals, the expertise of AECI Specialty Chemicals professionals is the driving force behind product innovation.

This technical expertise also extends beyond the laboratory. It involves close collaboration with customers to understand their specific needs and challenges. In the personal and home care industries, this often means working with formulators and product developers at manufacturing companies to create customised solutions that provide a competitive edge.

For instance, AECI Specialty Chemicals works with major brands to introduce cost-effective, quality products in the market. It provides agility to corporate giants wanting to localise products to suit consumer needs. This kind of bespoke development requires a deep understanding of chemistry along with an awareness of market trends and consumer behaviour. The ability to tailor solutions to meet the precise needs of a customer is a testament to the depth of technical expertise within AECI Specialty Chemicals.

Frugal hair care formulations

AECI Specialty Chemicals has developed frugal formulations for different formats of hair food that provide moisturisation, manageability and scalp protection.

The formulation hair food 1 utilises a concentrate, which makes developing and manufacturing easy while providing a desired structure to the hair food. Hair food 2 is an emulsion-based formulation with the addition of water thereby reducing the cost of the formulation. The addition of urea and glycerine brings moisturisation efficacy to the formulation.

Sustainable innovation in action

Today, technical expertise is playing a crucial role in creating sustainable solutions. Companies in the personal care and home care industries are increasingly focused on reducing their environmental footprint. According to AECI Specialty Chemicals, it is at the forefront of this movement.

Developing biodegradable ingredients, reducing the use of fossil fuel-based materials and improving the efficiency of production processes are some examples of how AECI Specialty Chemicals’ technical expertise is driving sustainability. Companies with advanced R&D capabilities can innovate in ways that reduce environmental impact while maintaining, or even enhancing, product performance. This is no small feat, and

it underscores the importance of having a technically skilled team that can navigate the complexities of green chemistry.

The supplier’s curl cream formulation uses a cold process method. Cold process

The heartbeat of Africa’s Formulation Technology

C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Polyisobutene (and) Sorbitan Oleate

Method of manufacture:

1. In vessel add Phase A ingredients 1 to 3 and mix, heat to 70°C to 75°C.

2. After heating Phase A add ingredient 4, maintain at 70°C to 75°C.

3. In separate vessel, add Phase B ingredients 5 to 7 and heat, Temp 75°C to 80°C.

4. Stop heating, ensure the temperature is below 80°C and add ingredients 8 and 9.

5. Under high homogenisation shear add ~20% of Phase A to Phase B.

6. Ensure emulsion inversion occurs.

7. Add balance of Phase A and continue to homogenise until thick emulsion forms.

8. Ensure Phase A is completely emulsified.

9. Cool to below 55°C and add fragrance.

10. Homogenise once more.

manufacturing eliminates the need for heating and reduces the energy required during production. Manufacturing time is also decreased during cold processing, making this type of formulation more sustainable.

Continuous learning and adaptation

In an industry characterised by rapid change, maintaining a competitive edge requires a commitment to continuous learning and adaptation. AECI Specialty Chemicals stays abreast of the latest scientific advancements, regulatory changes, and market trends. This ongoing education enables the company to refine existing products, develop new ones, and

AECI Specialty Chemicals has developed frugal formulations

offer technical support that is based on the latest knowledge.

Moreover, AECI Specialty Chemicals recognises that innovation doesn’t happen in a vacuum. It fosters an environment of collaboration, both internally and externally, where ideas can be shared, tested and refined. Whether it’s through partnerships with academic institutions, participation in industry events, or active engagement with customers, the exchange of knowledge is crucial for staying ahead in the personal and home care industries.

Prospects for innovation

The future of the personal and home care industries is being shaped by companies like AECI Specialty Chemicals, which are combining deep technical expertise with a forward-thinking approach to innovation. As consumer expectations continue to rise and environmental concerns become ever more pressing, the ability to deliver cutting-edge solutions that meet these demands will be the hallmark of successful chemical companies. Partner with AECI Specialty Chemicals and experience the difference that technical expertise can make. Together, it can drive your business forward, ensuring all parties stay competitive in an ever-evolving sector.

A game-changer in water-soluble sunscreen technology

As the demand for effective and reliable sun protection continues to grow, SunBeat NP stands out as a valuable ingredient that can help meet the needs of consumers and manufacturers in the personal care industry.

The harmful effects of solar exposure on skin and hair are well documented. Although darker skin usually doesn't burn as easily as lighter skin tones, UV rays can still damage dark skin. For individuals with lighter skin tones, the damage can be particularly severe, starting with erythema and sunburn, and potentially leading to skin cancer.

Hair is also significantly affected by UV radiation, with it becoming brittle, rough and difficult to manage. This damage occurs because UV radiation can break down the disulfide bonds in hair keratin, reducing its tensile strength.

Water-soluble sunscreens are especially beneficial for hair care products

To protect skin and hair from the sun's harmful rays, regulatory bodies have approved around 15 sunscreen chemicals, but only four of these are water-soluble. Water-soluble sunscreens are especially beneficial for hair care products and emulsions, where they can enhance the sun protection factor (SPF) when combined with water-insoluble sunscreens. Among the commonly used water-soluble sunscreen chemicals are p-methoxy cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 2-phenyl benzimidazole5-sulphonic acid, and 2-hydroxy-4methoxy benzophenone-5-sulphonic acid (benzophenone-4). Notably, only benzophenone-4 is universally approved, including in the EU and Japan.

Innovating to overcome limitations

Despite its widespread use, benzophenone-4 has some limitations. As a sulphonic acid, it requires neutralisation, and the resulting salts can be sensitive to pH variations, sometimes leading to crystallisation in formulations. Additionally, the neutralisation process can cause discolouration, which limits its effectiveness in creating high SPF products.

To overcome these challenges, Galaxy Surfactants has developed a unique solution: SunBeat NP (INCI: Methoxy Cinnamidopropyl Hydroxy Sultaine). SunBeat NP is a colourless, odourless, water-soluble sunscreen that does not require neutralisation. Its unique ionic nature keeps it electrically neutral, ensuring SunBeat NP’s stability across various pH levels and eliminating the risk of crystallisation and discolouration.

A

versatile and stable solution

SunBeat NP offers a highly effective, stable and versatile solution for sun protection in hair and skincare products. Its advantages over traditional water-soluble sunscreens make it an ideal choice for formulators seeking to enhance product performance and ensure consumer satisfaction.

By incorporating SunBeat NP into their formulations, manufacturers can provide consumers with products that offer better protection and longer-lasting results, making it a valuable addition to any personal care routine.

Available throughout Southern Africa from IMCD SA, SunBeat NP represents a significant advancement in sunscreen technology, addressing the limitations of existing ingredients while providing superior performance.

Superior UV protection for colour preservation

Comparative studies have demonstrated the superior colourprotecting abilities of SunBeat NP. When tested with light-sensitive dyes such as FD & C Green No. 3 (CI No. 42053), FD & C Red No. 33 (CI No. 17200), and Malachite Green (CI No. 42000), SunBeat NP showed remarkable efficacy in preventing colour degradation in personal care products when exposed to sunlight.

The future of gentle cleansing with NatraFusion SL HA

The industry is witnessing a transformation with the increased focus on sensitive care, eco-friendly solutions and sustainable practices. Croda Beauty is among those at the forefront of this revolution, setting new standards for gentle yet effective cleansing. By Rendani Nemaungani

In recent years, there has been a significant increase in the number of consumers identifying as having sensitive skin. Reports show that 71% of consumers now recognise themselves as having sensitive skin, indicating a growing need for skincare products that prioritise gentle care without compromising on performance.

One category where this need is particularly evident is cleansing products. Many individuals are now more aware than ever of the potential impact that cleansing can have on the skin barrier. As a result, there is a heightened desire for gentle alternatives that prioritise skin health.

Croda Beauty’s NatraFusion SL HA is a breakthrough solution in skin hydration. This ultra-mild sophorolipid biosurfactant addresses sensitive skincare needs with its exceptional cleansing properties by harnessing the power of glycolipids to lock in

moisture, keeping skin supple and radiant throughout the day.

Bio-based innovations

NatraFusion SL HA is versatile, it can be used as the sole surfactant in a formulation, delivering exceptional cleansing power in a gentle, skin-friendly format. It is ideal for brands looking to create innovative, barriersupportive cleansers that cater to the growing demand for sensitive skin solutions with 100% bio-based ingredients.

NatraFusion SL HA's potential doesn't stop there. When used as a co-surfactant, it synergistically enhances the mildness and performance of other surfactants, offering formulators the flexibility to create highly effective cleansing products without compromising on foam production, which is a key consumer expectation for cleansers.

ur new ultra mild biosurfactant. Made via fermentation with 99% biobased ingredients, resulting in a very low product carbon footprint*.

Boosts mildness and cleansing performance with low impact on foam. Sensitive to rising consumer demand for cleansers that are kind on the skin as they are on the planet.

The demand for gentle cleansing products is not just a passing trend

Sustainability is key in skincare

In addition to meeting the skin’s hydration and sensory needs, sustainability remains at the core of consumer choices. With an ever-increasing focus on eco-friendly formulations, NatraFusion SL HA’s biodegradable and renewable qualities position it as a top choice for brands looking to reduce their environmental impact.

NatraFusion SL HA is produced using microbial cell culture. During the process of bio-fermentation natural and renewable feedstocks are metabolised into glycolipids., driving growth in fermented beauty claims made by consumer-facing brands. In a world where skincare products are scrutinised

trend. As more consumers become educated about the impact of skincare products on their skin health, the need for gentle yet effective solutions will continue to grow. This presents an opportunity for brands to differentiate themselves by offering products that not only deliver results but also prioritise the long-term health and well-being of their customers' skin.

The future of skincare lies in the intersection of high-performance ingredients, gentle formulations, and sustainable solutions. Croda’s NatraFusion SL HA exemplifies these trends. Its ability to deliver effective, mild cleansing while supporting the skin’s hydration

and Organic Ingredients

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.