SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
June 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 6
www.pharmacos.co.za
Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient for a glamorous décolleté
Formulation ingredients to encourage innovation What it means to be green in 2017 The next dimension in male grooming
BRUNATIONAL COSMETIC & SKINCARE MANUFACTURERS One of the most respected, innovative contract manufacturing Companies in Gauteng, established in 2001 and a proud ISO9001 accredited Company since 2005 recognised both locally and internationally in the cosmetics and toiletries market. The manufacturing plant is based in Edenvale, along with Factory Shops in Edenvale and Ballito. Manufacturing for clients under their private labels, anything from head to toe from 10kgs and upwards, guiding clients on latest market trends, products and where to go for packaging and components. Manufacture, pack and label or supplying products in bulk, we strive to cater for all requirements ensuring high quality, value and excellent customer service. In todays World, we find more and more Men caring and catering for their grooming needs. Due to the exponential increase in damage caused by free radicals our skin are confronted with daily it has become a necessity in order to slow down the effects of ageing and more men want to look and feel good. Along with grooming products such as beard oils/products, hair gels/ shampoo, aftershave balms and
cologne, men are more aware of products in the market to enhance their looks and increase self confidence. We are a focused, committed, dynamic and service driven Company full of team players that ensure high levels of customer service excellence. A mutual partnership and friendship develops between ourselves and our customers resulting in us always referring to our customers as part of the family. Brunational Cosmetic & Skincare Manufacturers - Catering for all your cosmetic and skincare requirements……….Turning your ideas into profit
12 Bundo Road , Sebenza, Edenvale Tel: + 27 11 609 4066 e-Mail: factory@brunational.co.za
www.brunational.co.za
JUNE
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
June 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 6
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6
NEWS Meggle introduces micronised inhaler excipient New ISO standard for Pharmaceutical Enterprises Bringing the beauty of cosmetics to cancer patients
A
15
natural choice
11 PRODUCT NEWS What’s new in South Africa
12 INGREDIENTS
for healthy skin and hair
Savannah introduces Actifcol from Lipotec Baobab oil a natural choice for hair and skin A strong case for African botanicals Rooibos research gets a massive cash injection Scratching the science of itching
22
Kitchen-inspired health care ingredients Vitamin E with the lowest proven carbon footprint
26 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: TABLETTING & ENCAPSULATION How to increase tablet output with multi-tip tooling A look inside Adock Ingram’s Wadeville facility
30 SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES Real solutions for responsible brands Maximum transparency from BASF Environmental and social innovation in business
34 MALE GROOMING
Trending ingredients from the kitchen
Silab address alopecia with Hairgenyl Formulation concepts for beard care Men’s care trends from GlobalData
PackagingREVIEW41
N SOUTH AFRICA
PREVENT COUNTERFEIT PROLIFERATION
45
cos.co.za www.pharma
| Volum June 2017
e 43 | Number
6
43 Tubes Concepts for a new era
Tube tions innovtraen ds and
45 Security Features for Packaging
Keeping goods safe and secure
47 ASSOCIATION NEWS Latest news from GBM and Coschem on solutions Brand protecti ckaging for premium pa s ect eff Frosted
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
Shining a spotlight on sustainability
T
A market segment with huge potential,
he days of only buying products in retail stores are long gone. Presently,
male grooming is featured on page 34.
consumers not only have access to
While men are generally still finding their
a variety of channels to purchase
way around the whole grooming concept,
cosmetics and personal care products,
the time is right for brand owners to show
but also hordes of information about these
them the way. How, you ask? Through
products. The information age has given
customisation, which you can read more
rise to better-informed consumers, and
about in this edition. Aarifah Nosarka serves up packaging
because they know more, they’re dubious about claims and demand transparency in
for your palette in PACKAGING REVIEW.
terms of sustainability practices and ethical
This month’s hot topics include tubes
sourcing methods.
and security features. With counterfeiting
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Dr Trevor Baillie, Elena Cañadas, Brigitte Closs, Mélanie Coirier, Júlia Comas, Raquel Delgado, Laia González, Peter Hays, Rakesh Jain, Olga Laporta, Emilie Lasjaunias, Derek McPhee, Steve Osborn ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
trend, are impacting ingredients’ suppliers
pose life-threating risks to patients, experts
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
in a big (and positive) way. This is evident
say it’s crucial to address the problem at its
CIRCULATION
in the June edition of Pharmaceutical
roots using a holistic approach. This coupled
Cosmetic Review, where we’ve covered
with robust solutions, like those featured on
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za
the latest formulation ingredients, which
page 45, are a good way to mitigate risk.
PUBLISHING TEAM
These and other drivers, like the free-from
continuing to attack healthy brands and
are sure to inspire innovation. A new anti-
Please keep in touch. We welcome your
ageing active, African botanical extracts,
editorial submissions and feedback on the
developments in rooibos research, trending
magazine. You can send an e-mail
ingredients from the kitchen and vitamin E
to abby.vorster@newmediapub.
with the lowest carbon footprint are among
co.za or aarifah.nosarka@
the articles worth a read. Turn to page 12
newmediapub.co.za.
now to find out more. No longer a trend, sustainability has
Enjoy the read.
become paramount in the cosmetics
General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
industry. In the sustainable practices
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
feature on page on 30, we look at sourcing
MANAGING DIRECTOR
methods, the rise of renewable materials,
Aileen Lamb
and environmental and social innovation
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
positively impacting communities all over
Bridget McCarney
the world.
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
John Knowlton Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.
CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers
Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers
4
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
News
Meggle launches micronised inhaler excipient
Sustainable vanilla project gets nominated THE ‘VANILLA – FAIR and sustainable’ initiative supports farmers in Madagascar with education, fair prices and sustainable farming methods. Its purpose is to eliminate social and economic constraints, which keep vanilla farmers trapped in a cycle of poverty. It also sets out to ensure better
INHALAC 500, MEGGLE’S first inhalation-grade lactose, exhibits extremely
living conditions for 50 000 people in the grower
small particles combined with high quality and safety to meet individual dry
communities on the island’s Sava region.
powder inhalation formulation requirements. The product is available locally
This initiative forms part of the development partnership between Symrise, Unilever, the
from Amchem. According to the company, it is the finest grade available in the InhaLac
German Society for International Cooperation
product family. The micronisation process leads to a very small particle
and the Save the Children aid organisation.
size distribution, with 90 percent of the particles being smaller than 10μm
It has been nominated for Europe’s biggest
(x50 ≤five μm). This allows a versatile application in the field of dry powder
environmental prize, the GreenTec Awards, in the
inhalation products.
Sustainable Development category.
The benefits of InhaLac 500 include:
A total of 10 innovative environmentally
• micronised material with high cohesive properties
friendly projects, which seek to demonstrate that
• similar size range as an active pharmaceutical ingredient
sustainability and profitability go hand in hand,
• versatile application as ‘fines’ or co-agglomerate
competed for the nomination. Three finalists were
• the product is retested after one year
selected from these 10 projects by an online
As a micronised lactose, InhaLac 500 is suitable for ternary DPI formulations as
public vote and a jury of 60 experts.
an ultra-fine lactose. The addition of micronised ‘fines’ improves drug product
‘The nomination is an important recognition of
performance. This can be related to several known effects such as the buffer
our commitment to greater sustainability in our
effect, or saturation of high energy active sites. Due to the high cohesiveness
supply chain,’ says Friedrich-Wilhelm Micus, who
of the micronised material, it alters the fluidisation behaviour of the powder
is responsible for sustainability communication
blend and creates agglomerates.
at Symrise. ‘This strengthens our conviction that
Thanks to its minute particle size, it is perfectly suitable for use in soft
we have taken the right path with our support of
spherical pellet formulations.
vanilla farmers.’
NOVEL DRUG DELIVERY PLATFORM INTRODUCED
dinner hosted in Berlin, Germany, together with
The winner will be announced at a gala
TELOS 2 REAGENT Chips from Dolomite Microfluidics have helped San Francisco-based ProLynx to develop a novel drug delivery platform. Jeff Henise, director of process development at ProLynx, explains: ‘Traditional polymer encapsulation delivery systems rely on diffusion or breakdown of the polymer to release their payload. In contrast, our drug delivery system offers controlled release using self-cleaving linkers to attach the drug to hydrogel microsphere carriers. Drug release and subsequent gel degradation depend only on the cleavage rate of the linker, and are tuneable across a wide range. A key part of our manufacturing process is the production of the hydrogel as microspheres, which is carried out using Telos 2 Reagent Chips.’ To produce microspheres of the correct size, ProLynx uses a microfluidics approach and a custom-made Telos chip with a 50 micrometre channel. This chip is robust, with excellent chemical compatibility, and offer a high throughput for its size. Henise adds: ‘Although there are other ways of making emulsions, microfluidics offers better control of particle size and a high yield of monodisperse emulsion. As the resulting material does not need to be screened to remove incorrectly sized particles, this minimises waste and increases yield by as much as 30 percent.’ Jeff Henise in the lab
6
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
the winners in the 13 other categories of the awards. ‘We have high ambitions and want to win,’ says Micus. ‘But the GreenTec Awards are about more than winning. They shift the attention to numerous ideas and projects that use innovations and modern technologies to successfully combine ethics, environmental protection and profitability. Competition encourages imitation, and we want to motivate other companies to also implement sustainable processes.’ Vanilla pods harvested by farmers in the Sava region in the northeast of Madagascar
News
TRANSITIONING TO A NEW ISO STANDARD SINCE THE DRAFT of ISO 9001:2015 was
Analysis of the ISO 9001:2015 document
released, quality professionals throughout
itself, as well as certification body
the pharmaceutical industry have been
guidelines, proved to be invaluable in
gearing up to prepare for the transition.
obtaining comprehensive knowledge
Pharmaceutical Enterprises approached
of the requirements. The next step was
this change with the aim of being fully
an extensive review and gap analysis
compliant well ahead of the September
of the existing QMS. Risk, for example,
2018 transition deadline. This is to ensure
is a significant focus of the standard
the packaging solutions it offers are
and features throughout. Although risk
aligned with the latest requirements.
management procedures were already
The first hurdle was to gain a thorough
in place, it was necessary to demonstrate
understanding of the new requirements.
a risk-based thinking approach to all
Although there was no shortage online
aspects of the business, rather than only
of information and interpretations of the
product focused.
standard, the company chose to employ
The ambitious target to fully integrate
external training providers to upskill its
with the new standard by the next
entire management team, including
recertification audit allowed the company
the directorship. With ISO now placing
less than three months to implement the
a greater emphasis on leadership
action plan.
engagement, it is essential to have top
The journey culminated in
management involvement and support
Pharmaceutical Enterprises achieving a
for a successful quality management
successful transition to ISO 9001:2015, and
system (QMS).
was awarded certification in February 2017.
Tablet packing is one of the many pharma packaging solutions of Pharmaceutical Enterprises which is now ISO 9001:2015 certified
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
7
News
Bringing the beauty of cosmetics to cancer patients SINCE BEING ESTABLISHED in 2005 by the Cosmetics, Toiletry
The programme is run in both the public and private sector at
and Fragrance Association, Look Good Feel Better (LGFB) has
40 oncology centres located nationwide. Every workshop is free of
been helping women address the visible side-effects of their
charge for the patients to attend. During the workshops, volunteers educate the women on a
cancer treatment. The workshops have a threefold focus: a physical transition using
12-step skin care and makeup regime, five of which focus on
skin care products and makeup; providing emotional wellbeing
cleansing and moisturising followed by the beauty aspects. The
and a social aspect, which is possibly the most crucial benefit.
women are also educated on sun care, with volunteers promoting
Everything is built around the cosmetics and skin care brands the
the use of sunscreens formulated with titanium dioxide and zinc
women interact with, making the products crucial to the programme
oxide UV filters.
achieving its goals. Without the products sponsored by brand
Charmaine van Schalkwyk, national coordinator for LGFB, says the
owners and manufacturers in the South African cosmetics industry,
programme has been able to establish and meet the distinct needs
the positive psychological results of LGFB would be unachievable.
across the two sectors. For example, eye makeup remover and eye creams are of a greater need in the private sector, while toothpaste and bar soaps are best for public sector patients. This is in addition
Makeup sponsored by the cosmetics industry is changing the lives of cancer patients across South Africa
to the products needed for the actual workshops, which include milk cleanser, alcohol-free toner, day cream, foundation, concealer, blush, eye pencil, eyeshadow, mascara and lipstick. Margaret Hewson, LGFB programme director, adds: ‘To reach our 2017/18 goal, we need more companies to pledge support and become LGFB members or sponsors. We also request our members contribute suitable products needed for the workshops.’ Apart from receiving a complimentary bag of products, sponsored by various players in the cosmetics industry, the women gain confidence from the LGFB workshops and support from fellow cancer patients – which is something truly beautiful.
Local hair care
survey results
CHEMYUNION WINS
SILVER SENSORY AWARD
A HEALTHY HEAD of hair is more
hair loss* (*not resulting from a medical
AT THE IN-COSMETICS Global 2017 awards, Chemyunion won Silver
important to young upmarket South
condition) in young women.
in the Sensory category for Emulfeel SGP CHI. This innovative excipient
African women than an active sex life,
Survey results also revealed that 60
has a high degree of vegetal ingredients and is based on the double
attractive body or owning a car. This
percent of respondents colour, dye or
gel network (DGN) technology, which provides structuring of the oil and
is according to a new survey of 1 001
straighten their hair; 43 percent said they
aqueous phases.
women aged between 18 and 39, who
were either losing hair or it was thinning.
are based in Gauteng, the Western
When asked what they thought
It allows for formulations to be developed using fewer ingredients and just by changing the oil phase different textures can be created with great
caused hair loss, most respondents
versatility. Emulfeel SGP CHI can be used to adjust sensorial properties
selected (in descending order) emotional
or as a viscosity modifier in cold or hot processes. As it does not require
found most essential is family, followed
stress, bleaching, over-treatment,
special production equipment, it saves time during implementation and
by health and well-being, a good
illness and genetic or hormonal
reduces the environmental impact.
job, money, and a stable romantic
reasons, braiding, work stress, and an
relationship. Healthy hair is next on
unhealthy diet.
Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. Topping a list of what respondents
According to Chemyunion, which is represented in South Africa by Chemgrit Cosmetics, Emulfeel SGP CHI has been evaluated for clinical
the list and on par with a cellphone
Dr Adolf Klenk, head of Dr Wolff
and the internet. These are followed
Research, which discovered caffeine’s
by exercise, an attractive body, and a
positive effects on protecting against
formulators. Minimalist and multisensorial formulas are the best and
car. The least important on the list is an
hair loss*, said the results confirmed that
easiest way to guarantee their loyalty once consumers are more conscious
active sex life.
losing hair affects young women too. He
of what they are using and how it will affect their well-being. These days,
The survey was conducted by
says that Plantur 21 was developed in
formulations must also be cost-effective, not only reducing components
Insight Survey – an independent
response to the demand from younger
but also the process itself. This has become a trend in the personal care
market research company – on behalf
women for a similar product to Plantur
market. Understanding market demands, Chemyunion has demonstrated
of Plantur 21 caffeine shampoo. This
39, which addresses hair loss* in women
how easy it is to produce a multisensorial formulation in one step, with no
product promises to protect against
over 40.
heating required.
8
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
safety and showed excellent skin compatibility. Creating value for the consumer has always been a challenge for
Introducing the most valuable
cosmetics brands
ON THE
WEB WITH
//
www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-and-opinions/1988
D N A R B on
i t p e c per
B
rand Finance – a leading
Second-placed Gillette is one of the
shampoo is the fastest growing cosmetics
valuation and strategy
fastest growing brands in the cosmetics
and personal care brand, more than
consultancy – values the
industry. The brand grew by 68 percent in
doubling its brand value to US$5.4 billion.
brands of thousands of
value last year to reach US$12 billion. The
One recent campaign includes ‘Scalp
the world’s biggest companies every
Procter & Gamble-owned brand continued
Brave’: breaking away from ads that
year. The 50 most valuable cosmetics
to deliver razor-sharp marketing campaigns,
tended to rely solely on Head & Shoulders’
brands are featured in the Brand
including its ‘Perfect isn’t pretty’ campaign
functional attributes, this campaign takes a
Finance Cosmetics 50 2017 report,
in the lead up to the 2016 Olympics.
quirkier approach. The faces of celebrities
which you can access via this link:
L’Oréal Paris has lost ground this year,
such as Sofia Vergara and footballer
www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-and-
falling behind Gillette to third. Its brand
Giovani Dos Santos are shaved into people’s
opinions/1988.
value is down 11 percent in value to
hair, to illustrate the confidence to do
US$8.7 billion.
bold, fun things that having a flake-free
Johnson’s tops the list with a brand value of US$16.8 billion. It has a brand
Amongst the brand owners, P&G comes
scalp allows. P&G has demonstrated that
strength score of 89, which is largely
out on top with eight brands in the sector’s
well-executed creativity can help boost
thanks to its association with maternity.
top 50 and a combined brand value of
brand value.
An exceptionally high level of brand trust
US$34.1 billion. P&G’s brands are growing
is required to succeed when marketing
strongly – in addition to Gillette’s strong
this year; its value is down 26 percent to
products for infants. Johnson’s has earnt
growth, Pantene, Olay and SK-II are growing
US$859 million. According to Brand Finance,
this over decades with effective, safe
by 72, 74 and 80 percent respectively.
other brands that have also declined in
and reliable products and advertising
Head & Shoulders is possibly P&G’s biggest
value this year are The Body Shop, Estée
that positions the brand in this way.
success story this year. The anti-dandruff
Lauder, Olay, Shiseido and Old Spice.
STAYING UP TO DATE Subscribe to P C Review’s e-newsletters to receive the latest information on industry developments, events, trade shows, seminars and launches, both local and international. Log onto www.pharmacos.co.za or send an e-mail to celeste.smit@newmediapub.co.za to activate your e-newsletter subscription.
Clairol is the brand falling the fastest
FIND US Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review @SApharmacos
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
9
Diary 2017 RE V IE W
ood f SOUTH AFRICAN
WHAT'S ON IN
July
Cosmoprof North America
2017 SUBSCRIPTION FORM
9 to 11 July Las Vegas, US www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to:
Coschem Refresher: Preservatives
NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468. SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR
2 YEAR
Food Review Pharmaceutical
R474
R726
Cosmetic Review
Food Review + Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review
R474 R855
R726 R1300
26 July Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, JHB www.coschem.co.za
August
Full Name:........................................................................................... Designation: ........................................................................................
AMA Introduction to Aerosol Technology
Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:...................................................................................
16 to 17 August Rosslyn, Pretoria www.aerosol.co.za
.................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (
)....................................... Fax: (
) ..................................
E-mail:.................................................................................................
Coschem JHB Ladies’ Day
Main activity of company:...................................................................
17 August JHB Country Club, Auckland Park www.coschem.co.za
Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists. Signature:............................................................................................
❑
Please select your preferred method of payment:
❑
Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Payee:
New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .
Bank:
Nedbank Seapoint
Acc No:
1069321540
Branch Code: 10-69-09-00
❑
Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: ............................................................................. Expiry Date: ................................................................................ Card Number: ............................................................................. CVC Number............................................................................... Date: ...........................................................................................
❑
September Professional Beauty Joburg 3 to 4 September Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand www.probeauty.co.za/jhb
Coschem Scientific Conference 13 to 14 September Bytes Convention Centre, Midrand www.coschem.co.za
AMA KZN Breakfast
TAX INVOICE REQUIRED
15 September Hilton Hotel, Durban www.aerosol.co.za
Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.
Propak West Africa
Signature:....................................................................................
19 to 21 September Lagos, Nigeria www.propakwestafrica.com
10
2017
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
STREET Own it!
Black Pearl Ethnic hair care products by model and actress Pearl Thusi have been developed in collaboration with AfroBotanics. The range includes an oil blend, sulphate-free shampoo, hair jelly, conditioning moisturiser treatment, and a hydrating conditioner. Thusi says this ‘capsule collection’ offers consumers the basics for good hair, whether it’s natural or relaxed. The products
For kids by kids
are formulated using mostly natural ingredients, which enhance hair and lock in moisture.
Shampooheads Professional is a new salon hair care range created by international industry experts, Geoff and Colette Bell. Developed using major contributions from teens and tweens, the Strawberry Kiss, Tropical Twist and Blueberry Burst ranges promise to meet the needs of today’s children and teenagers. Depending on the range, the formulations are enriched with soft cotton extract, refreshing water mint, and mango fruit extract. Like the Shampooheads Professional South Africa Facebook page for more info.
Clean protein Phyto Pro is a plant-based range of nutritional products based on isolate powder, extracted from yellow peas (Pisum sativum). The products are developed in a medical and lifestyle change practice, based in Cape Town, South Africa. The non-GMO peas are grown in France, using environmentally friendly agricultural practices. Phyto Pro pea protein isolate is said to contain a broad profile of 18 amino acids, and is comparable to other whey, soy or animal sources of protein. Visit www.phytopro.co.za for more information.
A true hybrid The all new Gelish PolyGel has arrived in South Africa. PolyGel integrates the best qualities of both acrylic and hard gel into one patent-pending product. This professional nail care product boasts an all-in-one premixed formula featuring TriPolymer technology, giving it a puttylike viscosity to ensure a smooth and durable finish. Gelish PolyGel is available exclusively from local distributor, Sparkle Cosmetics.
A close shave Available at Sorbet salons, Sorbet Man and Clicks stores nationwide, the new Sorbet Man Shave Gel is a real skin pleaser. This deep freeze cooling gel is formulated with a man’s skin in mind and provides an optimum cooling barrier for a stress-free shaving experience. The shave gel is dermatologically approved and packed with cooling, skin-calming ingredients like Aloe Vera. Its light low-foaming properties enable a close shave while shielding skin from cuts and nicks.
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
11
Ingredients
The skin care elixir of life Test results of a new shiitake mushroom-based extract from Lipotec show it can improve collagen quality. Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient, available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, is effective in contributing to younger-looking skin. By Júlia Comas, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Laia González and Raquel Delgado
H
istorical references point to
to skin ageing. When compared with
percent) and fibronectin (33.6 percent)
shiitake’s powerful anti-ageing
other well-known NEPTM of glycation,
mRNA, versus the control.
benefits. Emperors of China
carbamylation has shown to have
would eat vast amounts of this
a stronger implication in ageing,
incubated with one percent Actifcol for
mushroom to keep themselves young.
due to its stronger accumulation of
48 hours, or only the medium as a control.
Scientific studies have shown that shiitake
derived products 4.
The ability of the active ingredient to
is rich in antioxidant compounds, which
Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) were
boost the synthesis of type I collagen was assessed by an enzyme-linked
species and DNA, preventing protein
Efficacy tests with positive results
and lipid damage, contributing to
Lipotec has conducted several efficacy
resulting in an increase of 36.6 percent
reduced cellular apoptosis and increased
tests on Actifcol, a shiitake mushroom-
(p<0.01), compared to non-treated cells.
cell viability1.
based extract, to confirm its potential
help reduce levels of reactive oxygen
The mushroom has also gained
immunosorbent assay (ELISA) technique,
activity in increasing type I collagen and
attention from the cosmetics industry
PLOD1 levels, as well as in
as it’s considered a powerful anti-
reducing carbamylation.
ageing candidate to introduce into skin
The results corroborate its
care formulations.
rejuvenating capacity.
Functional collagen is key for young skin
genes contributing to
Young skin is mostly characterised by its
using microarray analysis.
firmness, elasticity and resilience, mainly
Multilayered human skin
provided by functional collagen and
models were treated
elastin. Type I collagen is one of the most
with culture media with
abundant proteins in skin, providing tissue
10 percent Actifcol, or
structure and strength. The biosynthesis of
a buffer solution as a
collagen is a complex process. It includes
control. After incubation,
multiple steps that contribute to the
cells were lysed and RNA
protein’s proper structural and biological
isolated. The ingredient
functions. One of the most critical is the
showed to upregulate the
post-translational modifications (PTMs).
expression of type I collagen
These PTMs include the hydroxylation
(44.2 percent), PLOD3
of lysine residues by the enzyme lysyl
(128.4 percent), elastin (69.4
HDFa were treated with two or three percent Actifcol, or only the medium as
Figure 1: Patterns showing the average of diffraction peaks related to collagen
The expression of certain firmness was evaluated
hydroxylase (LH), encoded by the PLOD gene. These hydroxylysines are precursors of cross-links that help provide tensile strength and mechanical stability, indicating PLOD importance in offering a resistant and younger looking skin2, 3. Once the collagen molecule is formed, it can endure several deterioration processes, such as carbamylation. This non-enzymatic post-translational modification (NEPTM) is caused by various factors. Carbamylation has been studied for its implication in modifying the collagen structure, inducing destabilisation, and in reducing fibril organisation and cohesion, leading
12
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Figure 2: AFM images displaying collagen fibril bundles at different scales
Ingredients Figure 3: Decrease in the R0 parameter of the face compared to placebo and of the neck and décolleté, after 56 days (vs initial time: *p<0.05; ***p<0.001)
a control. The ELISA technique was used to evaluate the ingredient’s ability to boost the levels of PLOD1, which is associated with an improved quality of collagen. Results showed an increase in the protein by 17.5 (p<0.1) and 21.9 percent (p<0.01), when treated at two or three percent respectively, and compared to the control. Collagen type I at 20µg/mL was incubated with 0.1 M potassium cyanate to induce carbamylation and it was either treated with two percent Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient or with only the medium as a control. Protein carbamylation was evaluated using the ELISA technique. Levels of carbamylated adducts were then determined with a carbamylated bovine serum albumin (CBL-BSA) standard curve. After the active treatment, carbamylation decreased by 75.9 percent (p<0.0001) versus control, indicating a reduction in collagen deterioration.
Mollecular structure and fibril organisation The ability of Actifcol to improve the structure and organisation of collagen
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
13
Ingredients
fibrils was assessed in human skin
Figure 4: 3D illustration of the displacement of pixels monitored by a camera inside a probe during suction and relaxation of skin
explants placed in culture medium, which underwent carbamylation. The carbamylated explants were either treated with two percent advanced botanical ingredient, a placebo cream or were left with only the medium. As a control, noncarbamylated explants were kept only in the medium throughout the experiment. At the end of treatments, the molecular structure of collagen was evaluated for each explant by X-ray diffraction technique. This provides patterns characterising collagen’s microstructure. Fibril
Figure 5: Photographs of a subject’s neck, before and after the active treatment
organisation was assessed using atomic force microscopy technique (AFM), which can deliver microscopic images of collagen fibril bundles.
BEFORE
AFTER
When fibrils are correctly arranged, the diffraction peaks related to collagen are narrow and intense. When they are disrupted, they are wider and weaker. After treatment, the diffraction signal was like that of the control, suggesting an
percent on the skin of the
collagen protein. It also boosts PLOD1
improvement in the
face, neck and décolleté
protein levels, suggesting an improved
respectively (see Figure 3).
quality of collagen.
collagen structure (see Figure 1). Large, straight and parallel bundles, typical of wellpreserved collagen, were obtained at the end of treatment, achieving
DID YOU KNOW?
Skin’s linearity,
The well-known edible which determines its shiitake mushroom has a long displacement and history of traditional use as a returning profile, was remedy to fight ageing. It has assessed using a device also been acknowledged as an ‘elixir of life’. that combines mechanical
results like those of the noncarbamylated samples (see Figure
force and imaging. This provides a 3D view of skin’s
Actifcol also helps decrease the levels of carbamylation, involved in the collagen deterioration process. When evaluated on human skin explants, the ingredient improved the structure and organisation of collagen fibrils, even after carbamylation. The rejuvenating efficacy of this
2). These results indicate the promising
suction and return to its original
advanced botanical ingredient was
effects of the botanical ingredient in
state. After 56 days of product
assessed on women presenting skin
reducing collagen’s carbamylation-
application, skin became more
flaccidity. The treatment resulted in
induced deterioration process.
isotropic and uniform in all directions
firmer, smoother and more isotropic
with a recovery to the starting point,
skin of the face, neck and décolleté of
typical of a young skin behaviour
the volunteers. ·
Firmness, maximal deformation and anisotropy
(see Figure 4).
A clinical test was performed on 19 and 55. Twice a day, they applied a
Proven youthful and rejuvenating efficacy
cream containing two percent Actifcol
Enhanced skin firmness can now
advanced botanical ingredient on the
be achieved with Lipotec’s Actifcol
neck, décolleté and half face, and
advanced botanical ingredient. This
a placebo cream on the other half.
shiitake-based extract has been
After 56 days of treatment, different
selected to look after collagen in all
parameters were evaluated.
stages of its life cycle, contributing to
female volunteers, aged between 41
The maximal deformation (R0)
younger-looking skin.
parameter, inversely proportional
The ingredient showed, in vitro,
to firmness, was evaluated using a
to increase the expression of genes
cutometer. At the end of treatment,
associated with firmness, and to
R0 decreased by 13.5, 10.1 and 14.4
increase the synthesis of type I
14
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
REFERENCES: 1. A Markova NG. et al. Skin cells and tissue are capable of using L-ergothioneine as an integral component of their antioxidant defense system. Free Radic Biol Med. 46(8):1168-76, 2009. 2. Yamauchi M., Sricholpech M. Lysine post-translational modifications of collagen. Essays Biochem. 52:113-133, 2012. 3. Monthoux C. et al. Skin malformations in a neonatal foal tested homozygous positive for Warmblood Fragiel Foal Syndrome. BMC Vet Res. 11:12, 2015. 4. Gorisse L. et al. Protein carbamylation is a hallmark of ageing. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. 113(5):1191-6, 2016.
Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
Ingredients
A natural choice for healthy skin and hair The natural ingredients market has shown steady growth over the past few years. Natural oils, like baobab oil, are increasingly popular in beauty care as consumers continue to demand products formulated with raw materials derived from natural sources.
O
She comments: ‘EcoProducts is HACCP certified and has implemented an ISO 22 000 management system. Our oil undergoes
routine quality checks at various critical control points. Microbiology, moisture content and colour are monitored. All processing, extraction and packaging takes place at our premises.’
rganic baobab oil (Adansonia
Excellent for cosmetics
Digitata Seed Oil) is an excellent
Findings of a recent study on the safety
moisturiser. It has a long history
and efficacy of baobab oil (Komane et
of traditional use in South
al, 2016) show:
Africa and is hailed as one of nature’s best kept secrets. One of the most trusted sources of
An ingredient with many benefits Baobab oil is mostly widely used in
• it is significantly hydrating and moisturising • it has occluding benefits
DID YOU KNOW?
cosmetics as an emollient, and a skin and hair conditioner. The oil, produced by cold-
EcoProducts is one of the first pressing baobab seeds, is companies in the bio-trade sector a triglyceride fat, which is in South Africa to gain organic liquid at room temperature. status and to comply with In a cosmetics national bio-prospecting formulation, baobab oil offers legislation.
pure organic baobab oil in South Africa is
• it is non-irritating.
EcoProducts – a company based in Limpopo.
‘Baobab oil has a unique
Since 2006, EcoProducts has led the way in the
fatty acid profile with a
development and supply of baobab oil and
functional balance of
baobab powder to the cosmetics, personal
palmitic, linoleic and oleic
care and food and beverage industries. The
acids,’ explains Dr Sarah
company has developed expertise in wild
Venter, owner of EcoProducts.
harvesting protocols, rural community supply
‘The combination of oleic and linoleic
and restructuring. It can also improve
chains, track and trace systems and baobab
acid is known to soften skin and restore
skin’s elasticity, and encourage cell
fruit processing technology.
and moisturise the epidermis. These
regeneration without clogging the pores.
Typical fatty acid values of baobab oil
fatty acids regenerate the epithelial
the following benefits: quick absorption; and skin softening
Baobab oil is suitable for body creams,
tissues rendering it an excellent oil for use
lotions, bath oils, massage products,
in cosmetics.’
and cosmetics.
EcoProducts sources its baobab
This golden yellow oil has a slightly nutty
fruit directly from harvesters at village
smell and blends easily with other essential
• 18 to 30 percent palmitic (saturated)
level. The company’s track and trace
oils and fixed oils. It also stores longer than
• 25 to 37 percent linoleic
system follows product movement from
other unrefined oils. •
(polyunsaturated) • 30 to 44 percent oleic (monounsaturated)
harvester to packed product. Dr Venter also ensures the consistent quality of her baobab oil, which conforms to
EcoProducts – www.ecoproducts.co.za
international food grade standards.
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
15
Ingredients
Africa takes on the world
A small South African company has caught the eye of the global cosmetics industry by asking ‘why so little of the wealth of African botanicals is being utilised in product development’?
A
frinatural, which exhibited
Mafura, Kombo, Kokum and Shea – all
for the first time this year at
with exciting application prospects
in-cosmetics in London, is
– have been high on Afrinatural’s
the brain child of a group of
marketing agenda. Yet this has not detracted from its
passionate South Africans, led by CEO,
original offering of raw botanicals for
Adolf Joubert. He says, ‘International buyers are slowly learning to trust entities
the phytomedicine and nutraceutical
like ourselves to bridge the gap for their
industries. These include:
growth into Africa and the rest of the
• rose hip tea, which like rooibos, is high in antioxidants
world. As a bonus, rural communities
• Pelargonium sidoides, sidoides an excellent
in Africa are realising that trading
bronchial remedy, which has been
presents them with more sustainable benefits than the traditional aid programmes.’
Adolf Joubert
Joubert is challenging brand owners and manufacturers to open their minds to these new possibilities, to engage with local producers of
patented in EU as a pharma solution • the immune builder Sutherlandia frutescens,
which is known to be excellent in support of treatments for AIDS, TB, malaria, diabetes and high blood pressure
plant-based raw materials and unlock the wealth of
• Sceletium for stress relief
opportunity Africa can offer them.
• Bulbine latifolia – used internationally in
A representative from Here2Grow – a cosmetics and home care lab based in the UK – was highly impressed with Afrinatural’s offering at
Sutherlandia frutescens
the trade show, and reported that ‘the
sport nutrition as a muscle builder and testosterone enhancer • almost any other South African and African botanical known to the market.
company is helping to put Africa on the worldwide industry map’.
Tackling the challenges Joubert is concerned about the regulatory
Ingredients for various industries
landscape, both locally and abroad. ‘The Medicines
Afrinatural and its predecessor have been
the complementary medicines and health products
operating since 1998. The company has
industry,’ he comments, ‘while the incapability of
grown to be one of the leading suppliers
the Department of Environmental Affairs and the
of botanical ingredients sourced from all
Department of Science and Technology to find
over Africa to international wholesalers
effective ways of managing and implementing Bio-
and retailers in the phytomedicine,
Prospecting legislation is hampering trade. At the
pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetics,
current rate, these issues could kill most of the existing
personal care, and health food industries.
and potential economic opportunities. In addition,
Since 2013, it has placed immense
Control Council is placing unreasonable pressure on
South Africa’s dysfunctional bio-prospecting permit
effort on developing international markets
system is steering European product developers
for cold pressed oils and butters. Oils
away from using botanical ingredients sourced from
with exotic names like Marula, Baobab,
South Africa.’
Kalahari Melon, Manketti/Magongo,
Despite these challenges, he is optimistic and is
Ximenia, Mahuhu, Yangu, Tamanu, and
passionate about Africa and its potential. Joubert is
recently, Argan, and butters such as
also positive about the prospects of contributing to rural economic growth and job creation, and says,
Sceletium totuosum
‘the sky could be the limit’. ‘South Africa is not yet contributing 0.1 percent of the world demand for botanical solutions, while we have more than 10 percent of the world’s plant species,’ he explains. ‘International demand is growing at double digits, while local industries import approximately 80 percent of their requirements from outside of South Africa.’ ·
Afrinatural – www.afrinatural.com
16
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Solutions for Cosmetics & Pharmaceuticals The H&R group of companies is a leading manufacturer of mineral oil specialities such as white oils, petroleum jellies, paraffin waxes, base oils, process oils, cable filling compounds, cosmetic and pharmaceutical raw materials. H&R group applies intelligent processes to obtain products that are high quality, innovative, and environmentally friendly. The high quality of H&R’s PIONIER range is achieved through special refining processes and thus most suitable for pharmaceutical, personal care and cosmetic purposes. H&R has established long-term customer relationships based on an outstanding reputation for superior quality standards, reliability of supply and versatile products. H&R has an exciting new Speciality Chemical product stream, which complements our existing product and service offering: with cosmetic, personal care and homecare applications.
113 Trindad Road, Island View, Durban 4052, South Africa
Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700, Fax: +27 (0)31 466 8716 E-mail: SASales@hur.com
PIONIER range of products leading technology, leading quality Petroleum jellies White oils Waxes Hydrogenated polydecene Bases for cold processes Highly transparent oleogels Natural jellies Speciality products Our strengths Customer specific service and support Innovative products ISO approved quality management systems Customer orientated quality and reliability We care about Technology - We rely on cuttingedge technology. Innovation - We are the market leader in crude-oil-based specialty products. People - Because our employees are our most important resource. Safety - We exceed even the highest safety standards. Partnerships - We develop customised solutions for our clients – just in time.
www.hur.com
Ingredients
R3 million boost for rooibos research The South African Rooibos Council (SARC) will invest a further R3 million this year to commission additional research into the healthenhancing properties of rooibos. This could yield some of the most exciting new discoveries yet. Aspalathus linearis, the rooibos plant
A
way for other important findings and the possible development of nutraceutical products to combatt disease,’ he explains.
Beyond skin care benefits Among the exciting research currently underway is that of rooibos’ effectiveness in curbing altitude sickness. Prof Simeon Davies, Head of the Cape Peninsula University of Technology’s Sports Department led a pilot study to investigate the role of rooibos supplementation on several climbers during an expedition to summit Aconcagua in Argentina. At 6 962m, it is the highest mountain in the southern hemisphere. Many mountaineers who ascend to high altitudes often need to take prescription medication to combat high altitude sickness (HAS), but preliminary findings show the antioxidant compounds of rooibos have a beneficial outcome for high altitude climbers. Further research related to this has just been approved by the SARC and if successful, rooibos could provide a viable natural alternative to pharmacological medication for HAS. Ongoing research by the SARC into the cancerfighting properties of rooibos could see it playing a more prominent role in curbing the risk of this life-threatening disease. Other studies will ascertain the efficacy of rooibos in the treatment of chronic wounds that plague diabetics – a phenomenon
lready known for its myriad health
set to increase as the condition becomes
benefits, most of the research on
more widespread.
rooibos has been limited to laboratory
A product of South Africa
work and animal studies. The next
tranche of investment will enable researchers to
Over the past decade, the SARC has invested
build an even more solid foundation for human
more than R30 million in rooibos-related research,
trials, and in some instances, to move forward with
which has given rise to a host of new products and markets.
clinical studies. Ernest du Toit, SARC spokesperson, says since research on the remarkable Aspalathus Linearis plant was first conducted, science has proven its therapeutic ability to help prevent cancer, protect the liver and heart against disease, boost the immune system, reduce Ernest du Toit
hypertension, relieve allergies and thwart the effects of ageing.
DID YOU KNOW?
to invest in research and keeping a close eye on studies done
Rooibos is arguably one of the most overseas and locally, SARC is not successful indigenous plant products only able to provide scientific to be commercialised with global evidence of the plant’s specific consumption currently at 15 000t. It is health benefits, but also police exported to more than 30 countries with Germany, the Netherlands, inaccurate or unsubstantiated Japan, the UK and US among claims on behalf of the the biggest importers rooibos industry. of rooibos.
‘Rooibos research has reached a critical
18
Du Toit notes that by continuing
‘As the guardian of the rooibos
sector, we have also lobbied for the
point where significant investment is required to
protection of rooibos products elsewhere in the
take it to the next phase. This is likely to pave the
world and in 2014, the European Union finally
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Ingredients Harvested rooibos processed for production
a significant impact on the rooibos industry, while paving a bright future for one of SA’s most soughtafter herbal assets,’ Du Toit concludes. ·
South African Rooibos Council – www.sarooibos.co.za
STUDIES APPROVED BY SARC FOR THE COMING YEAR: • A study on the potential of rooibos to improve
low blood pressure, conducted by
recognised rooibos as a geographic indicator. This
gut health to strengthen the immune system
means local rooibos manufacturers have exclusive
and prevent disease, conducted by the SA
ownership of rooibos trademarks and IP, and the
Medical Research Council and two Taiwanese
rooibos as a complementary treatment
use of the rooibos name will only be applicable to
institutions: National Tsing Hua University and
in the prevention and management of
products that come from South Africa, which are
National Health Research Institute.
officially approved by the Department of Trade and Industry, guaranteeing quality control.’
• Research to determine the extent to which
Stellenbosch University. • Research to strengthen the case for
heart disease. • A study on the effect of rooibos
rooibos can combat chronic inflammation
tea extract in lowering the blood
to prevent and/or alleviate metabolic
glucose response after pre-diabetic
offers almost limitless health benefits. ‘The plant’s
disease, conducted by the SA Medical
subjects consume a known glucose
medicinal properties continue to astound scientists,
Research Council.
concentration, conducted by the
Rooibos is a unique South African plant, which
and I believe we’ve only just scratched the surface of its incredible healing potential. We are entering
• A study that delves deeper into the balancing effects of rooibos on high and
Waiariki Institute of Technology in New Zealand.
an exciting period of research, which could have
Personal Care our task is to help unveil Beauty MEN’S CARE INNOVATIONS: Below is a selection of a wide range products from Active Concepts that can also be used for Men’s Grooming Innovations.
Crest Chemicals
There are remedies for Skin Defense, Post Shaving, Problem Skin, Body Sculpting and Beard Care. The list of active ingredients that can be used are below: For Skin Defense Acqua Seal Coconut, Phytofuse Renew, AC Hyalurosome, ACB Bio-Water Bamboo, ABS Acai Sterols EFA, ABS Coconut Water PF, ABS Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Phytofuse Rejuvenate. For Post Shaving Phytofuse Renew, ACB Agave HSP, AC Mositure-Plex Advanced PF, Phyto-Biotics Quercus, Phytofuse Rejuvenate, Probacillus Revive, AC Dermal Respiratory Factor Advanced PF, ACB Bio-Chelate 5 PF. For Problem Skin ABS White Willow Bark Extract Powder, ACB Modified Pumkin Enzyme PF, ProRevive Blemish Balm Complex, ABS Lady’s Mantle Extract PF, AC Biopolymer Soy PF, AC Sebum Control Enzyme PF, ACB Equalizing Complex PF, ACB Rice Bioferment PF. For Body Sculpting AC Griffonia Lysate Advanced, AC CytoSulf PF, AC CytoPure PF, AC DermaPeptide Tightening PF, AC Hydrating Seaweed Complex, AC Caffeine Liposome PF, ABS Apple AHA’s, Active Lite. For Beard Care ACB Quinoa Protein, ABS Royal Jelly Extract G, AquaSeal Coconut, ACB Kale Protein Blend, ACB Pisum Sativum Peptide, AC Olive Oil Clear, ABS Pomegranate Sterols, ACB Botanical Sugar Complex.
Crest chemicals.indd 1
Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981
2017/06/01 3:15 PM
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
19
Ingredients
Scratching the science of itching
these consumers first want to make sure the products won’t irritate their scalp. To assist customers in meeting consumers’ evolving personal care needs, like scalp irritation, Symrise screened more than 15 000 compounds to establish their itchinhibition abilities. Lars Jung, product
SymMollient W/S is ideal for shampoos, bath and shower products. This hydrophilic emollient not only improves skin’s tolerance of surfactants but also acts as a skin and scalp soothing agent. By Abby Vorster
W
This aqueous blend of
manager from Symrise explains:
Trideceth-9 and PEG-5
‘The combination of ingredients in
Isononanoate was put to the
SymMollient W/S provided the best itch-
test again in 2015 to confirm its
inhibition performance. This includes
soothing properties and ability
PEG-5 Isononanoate, which is a unique
to help combat itching.
Symrise product produced specifically for our company and not freely
Addressing global concerns
available on the market.’ After establishing in vitro the itch-
hen Symrise first launched
Scalp irritation is linked mainly to
relief properties of SymMollient W/S,
SymMollient W/S in 2007,
dandruff though it is not limited to this
Symrise went on to test the hydrophilic
the hydrophilic emollient
condition. According to Symrise, irritations
emollient in vivo on 20 Caucasian
was positioned to improve
such as itching and redness are often
volunteers (13 males and 7 females).
skin’s suppleness by restoring its lipid
associated with aggressive treatments
content (refatting effect). Its efficacy was
like relaxers, an oily scalp or external
proven in a series of in vitro and in vivo
factors such as cold and dry climates.
studies, confirming its anti-dehydrating
Product intolerance is a key concern for
effect and that it improves skin’s tolerance
consumers with scalp irritation issues.
of surfactants.
When purchasing hair and scalp products
Figure 1: SymMollient W/S instantly decreases the itching sensation
The combination of ingredients in SymMollient W/S provided the best itch-inhibition performance Two percent SymMollient W/S formulated in a common mild shampoo base was tested in a clinical randomised single-blind study versus a placebo. The volunteers, ranging in age from 18 to 60, all suffered from itchy scalp. Each volunteer tested both shampoos, one by one, according to a randomisation chart. Evaluation was conducted on both the short and long
Figure 2: SymMollient W/S imparts long-term relief from itching and erythema
term effects of SymMollient W/S, as well as its overall tolerability. The results are detailed in Figures 1 and 2. ‘Study protocol followed a two-fold approach to evaluate the instant and long-term benefits of SymMollient W/S. Firstly the instant itch decrease was evaluated after one, five, 15 and 30 minutes, while the long-term scalp soothing benefits associated with itching and erythema were assessed after seven days,’ Jung concludes. ·
Symrise – www.symrise.com
20
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Personal Care
Geogard Ultra™ Evolving Preservation for an Evolving World
Three in five global personal care launches in 2016 were naturally-positioned... is yours one of them? Geogard Ultra™: The Ideal Choice for the Naturally-Minded Formulator – Conforms to the ECOCERT and COSMOS cosmetic standards – Certified by the Soil Association – Certified by NATRUE *Source: Personal care products launched in 2016 including ‘natural’ claims, according to Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD)
ccpreservation@lonza.com www.lonzapreservation.com All product information corresponds to Lonza’s knowledge on the subject at the date of publication, but Lonza makes no warranty as to its accuracy or completeness and Lonza assumes no obligation to update it. Product information isintended for use by recipients experienced and knowledgeable in the field, who are capable of and responsible for independently determining the suitability of ingredients for intended uses and to ensure their compliance with applicable law. © 2017 Lonza
Ingredients
Trending ingredients from the kitchen In an age where people are looking for more alternative methods to treat common ailments, it seems producers of innovative ingredients are looking no further than the kitchen for inspiration. Dr Trevor Baillie explores the developments within this trend.
Coconut oil can moisturise skin and provide relief from certain skin conditions
F
or centuries, traditional healers around the world have been using common kitchen ingredients for the supportive treatment of many common ailments. Combining
season. Curcumins do have antithrombotic effects,
applications has resulted in several ingredients
so individuals preparing for surgery or using blood
becoming mainstream. Nowadays, they’re used in
thinning medication should advise their health care
dietary supplements available in pharmacies and
practitioner before taking turmeric.
health stores and are being prescribed by health care practitioners.
Triglycerides and probiotics Another common kitchen ingredient is coconut oil.
The anti-inflammatory spice
Commonly used for cooking, the benefits and uses of
Turmeric is one popular example. It is commonly
coconut oil go far beyond what most people realise.
used as a flavour and colour component in food,
Its health benefits stem from the high concentration
as a culinary spice and is a major component
of saturated fats and more specifically the medium
of curry powder. Turmeric essential oil is used to
chain triglycerides (MCTs) – caprylic, lauric and
manufacture perfumes. Traditionally, turmeric is
capric acids.
used orally for several digestive disturbances and
Most fats we consume take longer to digest,
for various types of inflammation. It is also applied
but MCTs found in coconut oil provide the perfect
topically to any area of inflammation. Knowledge of
source of energy because they are easily converted.
its healing properties have resulted in general health
MCTs are processed by the liver and immediately
and wellbeing home remedies being published with
converted into energy instead of being stored as
turmeric featured as the main ingredient.
fat. Research shows MCTs provide an ideal source
Research shows that turmeric’s healing properties
of energy for the brain, improving its function. MCTs
can be attributed to its active constituents,
have also been shown to support healthy cholesterol
curcuminoids. One of these includes curcumin
levels in the blood.
(diferuloylmethane), a yellow pigment, which appears to be responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity. This is due to its ability to inhibit many
Topically, coconut oil can moisturise skin and provide relief from certain skin conditions. Yoghurt also has understated health benefits.
pro-inflammatory markers in the body. This anti-
Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that occur
inflammatory property together with its traditional
naturally in the digestive tract. They ensure healthy
benefits for the digestive tract, make turmeric an ideal
such as preventing the overgrowth of yeast and other pathogens. Probiotics also support the production of
individuals suffering
vitamin K in the gut.
complications due to long-term anti-inflammatory
The most commonly used strains are Lactobacillus acidophilus and Bifidobacterium bifidum. Vast and recent developments in
use. Preliminary research also
probiotic supplementation for children
indicates turmeric may have
have occurred using Lactobacillus
a stimulatory effect on the immune system, lending to its use
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
digestion and perform other important functions
alternative for from digestive
22
as an ideal supplement during the flu
this traditional knowledge with modern scientific
reuteri and Lactobacillus rhamnosus strains. These strains are commonly
Ingredients
prescribed together with antibiotic courses to maintain beneficial bacteria balance in the intestines. New research shows the possible immune enhancing effects of these strains in infants, while probiotic skin care is a new and growing trend.
DID YOU KNOW?
Khiels offers a Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Mask that promises to invigorate and brighten the skin. It is formulated with cranberry extract, which is rich in antioxidants and resveratrol, and turmeric extract for its antiinflammatory properties.
to tissue degradation and the risk of degenerative diseases such as heart disease, cancer, and Alzheimer’s. There is growing interest around the presence of catechin epigallocatechin gallate
Polyphenols play an important role in maintaining health and wellness
(EGCG) found in green tea. Some research
Major advancements have
indicates that EGCG
been made at supplier level to ensure the stability and viability
may improve calorie
of probiotic strains. Storage
metabolism and
conditions and the delivery
thereby may be
medium for probiotics are
useful in the weight
essential to guarantee shelf life
management process. It is important that
and stability of the organisms.
individuals using any
Abundant source of antioxidants
chronic prescription medication advise their health care
Green tea has a long
practitioner before using any form
history of traditional use.
of green tea to ensure no possible interaction with their medication.
Numerous health benefits of green tea have been established, lending to its prominence as an ingredient in cosmetics, functional foods, and
Buying quality ingredients
dietary supplements. Traditionally green tea has
Sourcing trending ingredients and raw materials
been prescribed by healers to support a variety
is becoming extremely challenging. When
of medical conditions. It has also been used
looking for a raw material, always ensure it is
topically to relieve conditions such as sunburn
accompanied by safety and efficacy data, and
and gingivitis.
meets certain quality standards. The availability
Green tea is produced by steaming the leaves at high temperatures, and not by fermentation like with other teas. This steaming process
of safety data sheets ensures the ingredient has been tested and is safe for human consumption. Efficacy data confirms scientific research on
ensures a high polyphenol content, giving
the ingredient, that it has been tested at the
green tea its many health benefits. Polyphenols
correct dosage level and is in fact effective for
are phytochemicals – compounds found
the supportive use of a specific condition.
abundantly in natural plant food sources – which
The quality aspect is also vitally important. This
have antioxidant properties. Polyphenols play
information from the supplier will indicate the
an important role in maintaining health and
manufacturing processes used and quantity of
wellness. Antioxidants as a group help protect
actives present in the raw material at the time of
cells in the body from free radical damage,
production. For example, a good quality turmeric
thereby controlling the rate at which we age.
extract has a high curcuminoids content. This will
High levels of free radicals in the body can lead
also be related to the stability of the ingredient and its shelf-life. With probiotics, this is particularly important to determine the viable organism count, optimal storage conditions and expected shelf-life to support the label claim. Access to this information is essential from a marketing point of view and ensures all claims made can be validated. It gives the consumer a sense of confidence that the product purchased is safe, high quality, and will work for the specified condition. Access to this information also streamlines the new registration requirement for products with the Medicines Control Council. Trending ingredients will continue to evolve every year with more and more interesting facts discovered and published. In the words of Thomas Edison: ‘There’s a way to do it better – find it’! ·
ABOUT Dr Trevor Baillie is a wellness professional with extensive knowledge in the health products, complementary medicines and vitamins and minerals markets. He was previously the technical director of Lunar Pharmaceuticals and is currently establishing a new online health and wellness platform, drbaileys.com.
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
23
Ingredients
Vitamin E with the
lowest carbon footprint Through a life cycle assessment, DSM has confirmed its vitamin E production methods have the lowest carbon footprint in the industry. Customers can now calculate this environmental impact for themselves.
V
itamin E is perceived as the most widely
to major alternative suppliers. It found the DSM
used cosmetics active ingredient in the
production method generates up to 85 percent less
world. Initially isolated in 1936, vitamin
particulate matter and uses up to 60 percent less
E was produced for the first time by
non-renewable energy than alternative suppliers.
DSM in 1938 and became widely used for human and animal nutrition. Again, it was DSM’s research
How does this improve sustainability?
in the ’80s and ’90s, which led to the discovery of
It’s often difficult to grasp the tangible effects of
vitamin E’s antioxidant activity when applied to
sustainability. What difference does it really make if
skin. This paved the way for its development as a
85 percent less particulate matter is generated or
cosmetics ingredient.
60 percent less non-renewable energy used?
Today, the ingredient is one of the most widely
To make its impact on sustainability tangible, DSM
used cosmetics actives, supporting skin renewal after
calculated the lowered carbon footprint translates
exposure to external stressors, such as UV light. In
to savings of 3 200t of CO2 for every 100t of Quali E
vitro and in vivo studies confirm its ability to enhance
purchased. This is equivalent to the entire carbon
moisturisation and strengthen the skin barrier.
sequestered by 82 000 tree seedlings grown for 10 years.
Making a responsible move
Aline Hueber, head of marketing – vitamins/
DSM markets several natural and synthetic forms of
personal care, comments: ‘Our vitamin production
vitamin E, which are distributed locally by Chempure.
is under constant review for sustainability, through
These are sold under the brand name Quali E, which
a programme of improvement that is already
comes with DSM’s Quality for Life seal of excellence.
delivering recognised achievements. Hence
The company’s Quali brand guarantees its vitamins
Quali vitamins also offer our customers a great
meet the highest expectations for quality, reliability,
opportunity to communicate their environmental
traceability and sustainability.
and social responsibility. ‘As part of our ongoing commitment to reducing
Given the high demand for this vitamin across multiple industries, the company identified a
our global carbon footprint, we regularly analyse
corporate responsibility to maximise the sustainability
the environmental impact of our products and
of its supply chain and production environment. The
processes before going on to create and implement
logical step was to conduct a life cycle assessment of
programmes for improvement. Our vitamin E carbon
the synthetically produced forms, and the company
footprint proves we’re on the right path.’ ·
can now claim ‘the lowest carbon footprint for vitamin E in the industry’.
REFERENCE:
Designed to evaluate the environmental impact
• Based on DSM’s Life Cycle Assessment conducted and reported according
of vitamin E production over its complete life cycle
to the requirements of the WBCSD Life Cycle Metrics for Chemical Products
(including creation, use, and end of life), the
guideline and according to the ISO 14040 & 14044:2006 Standards in 2017.
assessment compared vitamin E production by DSM
Chempure – www.chempure.co.za DSM – www.dsm.com/personalcare
DSM’s VITAMIN E CO ² FOOTPRINT COMPARED TO: carbide and coal-based POTENTIAL SAVING next best chemistry POTENTIAL SAVING 24
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
REDUCTION IN DUST & PARTICLE MATTER
REDUCTION IN ENERGY DEPLETION
Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.
The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities
Hersolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products. It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments. Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.
Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines
Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2
fax: +27 11 614 4615
email: admin@hersol.co.za
web: www.hersol.co.za
Pharmaceutical Focus//Tabletting & Encapsulation
Enhancing productivity the economical way Increasing tablet output economically is a key factor to consider as the demand grows for improved productivity within modern tablet production. I Holland’s Steve Osborn discusses how multi-tip tooling can assist manufacturers to fulfil this requirement.
M
ulti-tip tooling offers a number of
production time. This leads to several positive spinoffs,
benefits, including greater productivity.
including a reduction in energy consumption and
This is because of the increased
less work hours being required per press. Machine
number of tablets per turret rotation,
maintenance costs are also reduced, whilst overall
and a reduction in run-time per output of tablets,
press availability will be increased, creating time for
which leads to less maintenance per batch and
additional production.
reduced press set-up time. It also reduces the press Multi-three tooling
set up time for the quantity of tablets produced. There should be no requirement to purchase a new tablet
very short period of the formulation being prepared.
press to increase production when a multi-tip solution
The use of multi-tips enables the formulation to be
is adopted. The solution requires less presses to satisfy
processed quickly with optimum conditions.
production levels and less floor space, leading to more product produced per square metre.
Case study: Korsch PH800, 77 station press
A simple yet beneficial concept
Exploring the positives
Multi-tip tooling has transformed the way tablets
I Holland was approached by a customer (company
are produced and it is now considered the most
A), which required increased tablet output, but
productive form of tablet manufacture. These
without incurring costly expenditure on additional
punches are conceptually as simple as they
tablet presses. Company A was utilising a Korsch
sound, being punches with more than one tip. This
PH800, 77 Station Press to produce its tablets. Single
can range from a simple two tip punch to a punch
tip punches were being used initially, which gave
with up to 26 tips per punch face. Depending on
a theoretical maximum output of approximately
tablet design, it may be more than this.
831 000 tablets per hour. The machine was running
Successful implementation of multi-tipped tooling
at 80 percent of its maximum speed (which is quite
can eliminate the need to invest in expensive tablet
typical) and actual tablet output was around 665 000
presses, therefore reducing the overall capital spend.
per hour.
The number of tool set-ups required per production
26
Another less obvious benefit is in the production of tablets, which need to be compressed within a
To increase tablet output, I Holland suggested
batch can also be reduced and product batches
using multi-two tooling – a tool with two tips. During
are completed quickly, decreasing the overall
trials, tablet output was increased to one million
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Pharmaceutical Focus//Tabletting & Encapsulation
tablets per hour at a press speed of 60 percent,
Are multi-tips the best option?
resulting in a 66 percent increase in productivity.
If your requirement is to increase
Yet there was more potential for increased
production capacity within a short time
productivity, so I Holland provided multi-three
frame, multi-tips are the best solution.
tooling. This reached an output of nearly 1.5 million
They can eliminate the expense and
tablets per hour, which was an impressive
time delay often associated with the
125 percent improvement on the original
approval and implementation
numbers. Production time per batch reduced from 14.5 to 8.5 hours, which represents a significant improvement for Company A. Another example of the successful implementation of multi-tip tooling was with the installation of monoblock multi-two tooling for Company B, onto a
of new capital projects.
DID YOU KNOW?
They can also reduce time to market and
I Holland produces punches and dies to fit any tablet press worldwide, so if you produce tablets, the company can supply the punches.
high speed Fette press with a segmented die table. This press initially ran at 900rpm with
drive down the costs of running a plant without decreasing output. Using a combination of correctly
multi-tip tooling and quality raw materials and coatings, is an obvious solution to enhance
a single tip, resulting in 900 000 tablets produced
productivity. This combination will also reduce
per hour. Company B required greater output so I
run-time per output of tablets, leading to less
Holland increased the machine speed to 1 200rpm
maintenance per batch and reduced press set-up
using monoblock multi-two tooling, and increased
time, which in turn reduces costs.
the output to 2.4 million tablets per hour. By simply adding multi-tip tooling,
Multi-five tooling
designed tablets, well manufactured
I Holland’s multi-tip tooling solutions are available in South Africa from Pakmax. ·
both companies increased tablet output without the need for expensive machine replacement, providing significant gains to the tablet manufacturers.
I Holland – www.tablettingscience.com Pakmax – www.pakmax.co.za
Sartorius_Secura_Jan17:Layout 1 2017/01/30 7:56 AM Page 1
We are Sartorius in South Africa 011 315 5444 sales@biotechsolutions.co.za www.biotechsolutions.co.za
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
27
Pharmaceutical Focus//Tabletting & Encapsulation
Local competitiveness on the radar Pharmaceutical manufacturing is on the rise in South Africa. This is according to Adcock Ingram, which continues to invest in its facilities to grow local production.
A fluid bed drier and a horizontal mixer-blender from PA Cuthbert & Co, installed at Adcock Ingram’s Wadeville facility
A
dcock Ingram’s Wadeville facility is now a state-ofthe-art tablet and capsule manufacturing site thanks
to a R470 million state incentive from the Department of Trade and Industry (dti). Clifford Raphiri, chairman of the Adcock Ingram Group, explains: ‘The Wadeville facility has received support from the dti over the past few years through the Strategic Integrated Projects (SIP) and the Manufacturing Competitiveness Enhancement Programme (MCEP) incentive schemes. We are currently undertaking a R66 million upgrade to areas of the plant, which
First pharma company to join Proudly SA Adcock Ingram is the fi rst local pharmaceutical company to join the Proudly South African campaign. ‘We believe it’s a real step in promoting what South African pharmaceutical companies can do in terms of local manufacture and the provision of quality and affordable medicines, both in South Africa and to the rest of the African continent,’ says Hall.
include the microbiology laboratory and the dispensary. Adcock Ingram
Adcock Ingram is well positioned to
manufacturing facilities continue to
supply ARVs into South Africa thanks to
receive ongoing attention and investment
substantial upgrades to the Wadeville
to meet regulatory requirements and for
facility in recent years. Our goal today
expansion and modernisation purposes.’
was to show the capabilities of this facility and that proudly South African local
Engaging with government
manufacture is on the increase.’
The Wadeville facility is positioned to ABOVE One of the many automated tablet packing lines at the Wadeville facility BELOW The triple combination ARV treatment, Trivenz was registered in 2013
produce antiretrovirals (ARVs) marketed
Enhancing local production
by Adcock Ingram and supplied to the
The tablet and capsule facility is one of
state and private sector.
three local manufacturing sites under
The Minister of Trade and Industry,
volume liquids facility situated in Clayville
tablet and capsule manufacturing
was expanded and upgraded in 2012
on 8 May along with a dti delegation,
with a focus on environmentally friendly
senior management team of Adcock
technologies, while the Aeroton factory is
Ingram and representatives from Proudly
a leading supplier of hospital and critical
South African.
care products, such as intravenous fluids,
‘This event is part of our ongoing programme of engagement with
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
blood bags and renal dialysis products. ‘Adcock Ingram remains a key player
government to share information and
in the local pharmaceutical sector. Its
create a better understanding, especially
continued investments in upgrading
on issues of policy affecting our industry
and expanding its manufacturing
and the potential capabilities we
capabilities contribute to upscaling the
can offer as a manufacturer,’ Raphiri
productive capacity of the industry.
comments.
Ultimately this supports the deepening of
Andy Hall, acting CEO of Adock
28
the Adcock Ingram umbrella. The high-
Dr Rob Davies, visited the company’s
industrialisation programmes within South
Ingram, adds: ‘As South Africa’s second
Africa and on the continent,’ Minister
biggest pharmaceutical manufacturer,
Davies concludes. ·
NEW: InhaLac® 500 MEGGLE has it: Micronized lactose with 1 year shelf life!
InhaLac®. Sieved, milled, tailor-made. From Meggle.
GMP/GDP certified
Whether standard or tailor-made – InhaLac® for dry powder inhalers impresses with its outstanding quality and excellent defined particle size. The benefits speak for themselves. And for InhaLac®:
– Controlled morphology – State-of-the-art production processes – Sieved and milled types – Tailor-made solutions, also conforming to FDA guidelines
For more information on our entire InhaLac® portfolio please contact inhalation@meggle.de
InhaLac® from MEGGLE: The benchmark for dry powder inhalers.
AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa www.amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082
HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: www.meggle-pharma.com service.pharma@meggle.de Phone +49 8071 73 476
Sustainability Practices
The path to sustainability
for responsible brands Experts from Aprinnova, Derek McPhee and Rakesh Jain, share a compelling story of how to achieve truly sustainable cosmetics. Through their knowledge of the industry’s value chain, they reveal real solutions available to formulators which are ethical, sustainable and don’t compromise on the quality of the end-product.
R
esearch shows the highest
these practices do
environmental impact of
face consumer
cosmetics is at end-user level.
skepticism in terms of
Consumers’ concerns range from
greenwashing.
unsustainable raw materials sourcing,
To its credit, the
pollution both in manufacturing and the
cosmetics industry
disposal of packaging and products, to
has not given up. At
animal testing.
in-cosmetics Global,
In response, companies have attempted
a new interactive
DID YOU KNOW?
Ethical
Amyris is a member of Bonsucro compromise and (meaning ‘Good Sugar’) to ensure best efficacy issues sustainability practices in its raw material Achieving supply chain. This UK-based, global, nonsustainability goals profit, multi-stakeholder organisation requires formulations fosters sustainability of the sugarcane sector through a metric-based with a reduced certification scheme and continuous environmental improvement for members, from footprint, sustainably the farm to end-users. sourced renewable raw
to address these issues holistically, focusing
area was launched to
on sustainable raw materials sourcing and
educate visitors and exhibitors
greener formulations, packaging reduction
on various sustainability aspects.
and lower overall resource consumption.
For example, L’Oréal has committed
packaging concepts and positive
They are also focusing on social issues,
to transform by 2020 its sustainability
social impact1.
like ethical supply chains and corporate
footprint. The cosmetics industry giant
eco-philanthropy. Though admirable,
plans to do this by ensuring 100 percent
choices often meant manufacturers and
of the products it develops have an
consumers had to make compromises.
environmental or social benefit. It also
In some instances, natural ingredients
plans to achieve its corporate goal of
were produced unsustainably, like the
reaching one billion new consumers
multifunctional emollient squalene
worldwide. In 2016, the company
obtained from shark liver. Because
reduced its C02 emissions by 67 percent
of consumer and NGO pressure,
IN JANUARY 2016, Amyris announced the
since it first started documenting its
companies were forced to stop using
completion of a joint venture with Nikkol Group,
emissions in 2005. This shows how an
it in their formulations and the industry
a leading Japanese specialty chemicals’
ambitious commitment to sustainability
introduced squalane, derived from a
provider. This 50-50 joint venture is now
and economic performance can
by-product of olive oil processing. Yet
operating globally under the brand name
work together.
quality and pricing issues occurred,
50-50 JOINT VENTURE
Aprinnova with the goal of continuing to develop
‘By accelerating sustainable innovation
materials, or raw materials derived from green chemistry, new
Many years ago, product formulation
highlighted by fluctuations in the
and make available sustainable cosmetics
within our business, and harnessing
success or failure of annual olive crops
ingredients for responsible brands worldwide.
the power of our brands to inform
susceptible to yield, weather and
Aprinnova combines Amyris’ biotechnology
consumers, we will raise awareness about
potential drought2.
platform and Nikkol’s innovation expertise to
sustainability and encourage consumers
Novel synthetic materials initially
develop and market personal care raw materials.
to make more sustainable choices,’ says
perceived as environmentally friendly,
L’Oréal CEO, Jean-Paul Agon.
such as polylactic acid for packaging,
30
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Sustainability Practices
have faced criticism because they are
Chemicals, also received an EPA Presidential
derived from needed food crops and
Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2014.
contribute to inflation in countries where
Amyris produces squalane from sustainable sugar sources using a fermentation process. The final manufacturing steps take place in an ISO
type of ethical compromise and source
Favourable alternatives to petrochemicals
of controversy.
Having proven the sustainability of its raw
ensure robust product quality. It is purer
materials, the next area to consider is its
than olive squalane, making it the most
ingredients often have worse performance
products. Neossance Hemisqualane, an
similar in performance to shark squalene.
than the ingredients they replace, which
ingredient launched in November 2014
The economies of scale for production allow
can hamper market adoption of eco-
by Amyris, is a perfect example of how
long-term stable and low pricing, allowing
friendly products.
biotechnology provides an alternative
formulators to incorporate the ingredient
to petroleum-based ingredients for the
and its premium performance into products
compromise? That is, ingredients produced
cosmetics industry. The product is positioned
where it would normally be cost-prohibitive.
in a sustainable way from sustainable raw
as a performance and cost-equivalent to
These examples prove it is possible
materials with equal or better performance
common excipients, such as petroleum-
to formulate with ingredients that don’t
and offered to industry at equivalent or lower
derived Isohexadecane, and fluid silicones.
compromise sustainability, be it the raw
pricing? The answer, based on Amyris’s
It is estimated that over 15 000t of these
material source or manufacturing processes.
experience, is yes. This is substantiated by its
materials are used in cosmetics’ applications
They also offer comparable or superior
Neossance brand of cosmetics ingredients,
every year.
performance to existing synthetic or natural
they are grown. This highlights a different
It is also notable that sustainable
So, is it possible to have ingredients without
which provide peace of mind. These ingredients are plant-derived from renewable feedstock with reliable long-term supply. Their pricing is stable, quality consistent, a robust manufacturing process is used to produce them and they comply with many international sustainability certifications.
An innovative ensemble of technology Amyris has developed, industrialised
alternatives, and thanks to the innovative
It is possible to formulate with ingredients that don’t compromise sustainability
technology used to produce them and economies of scale, they are available at stable long-term pricing. The success of Amyris’ Neossance ingredients is evidence that brands and manufacturers are beginning to take notice of their benefits. This initial success supports Amyris and other companies in their continued efforts to raise awareness about sustainability and provide real solutions to manufacturers and consumers. ·
and applied a combination of advances in bioscience, metabolic and enzyme
22716-certified facility where tight conditions
Life cycle assessments have
engineering, mathematical modelling,
demonstrated the overall process to
REFERENCES:
statistical process control, and chemistry,
produce hydrocarbons like Hemisqualane
1. Premium Beauty News website: ‘L’Oreal defines its sustainable
to meet the challenge of delivering ‘no-
represent a 60 percent reduction in
compromise’ sustainability. Instead of
greenhouse gas formation compared to
using alcohol, Amyris re-engineers ethanol-
similar petroleum-based materials. It is a
producing baker’s yeast to consume
sustainable alternative to fluid silicones,
fermentable sugars and convert them into
certain esters and petroleum-based
a variety of molecules. This ensemble of
paraffin ingredients, and is renewably
technology, known as an automated strain
sourced from sugarcane. It is backed by
engineering platform, produces innovative
stable supply, low pricing and consistent
materials on a commercial scale.
composition. Hemisqualane has a great
Because sustainability starts with the
http://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/l-oreal-defines-itssustainable,6100 (accessed 14/9/2015). 2. McPhee, D.*; Pin, A.; Kizer, L.; Perelman, L. ‘Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane.’ Cosmet. Toiletries, 129, 20 (2014). 3. Sugarcane.org website. ‘Sustainability’ http://sugarcane.org/ sustainability (accessed 14/9/2015).
Aprinnova – www.aprinnova.com
sensorial profile, and although not the
feedstock, Amyris has developed strains
first natural alternative to silicones, most
that are feedstock agnostic. The company
customers say it is ‘the best alternative
can produce products equally well using
they’ve seen so far’. Hemisqualane does
molasses, sugar beet, sweet sorghum, corn
not yellow, is nearly odourless, non-polar
dextrose, and cellulosic.
and compatible with many ingredients.
Its primary focus is on Brazilian sugarcane
development goals for 2020’, News item (10/20/2013).
It also has high spreadability. It performs
as the most abundant, sustainable source
well in skin care (great sensorial profile,
of plant sugars without impact on food
non-comedogenic), hair care
supply and with relative price stability3.
(high spreadability, low friction
Its production facility located at Brotas,
coefficient, proven performance),
Brazil, is the first Roundtable on Sustainable
makeup remover (excellent
Biomaterials (RSB)-certified facility in
cleansing properties), makeup
the country. This certification covers the
(high spreadability), and sun care
manufacture of ß-farnesene, the building
(high spreadability, non-greasy, non-
block of its Neossance cosmetics ingredients.
tacky, and helps to balance oiliness of sun
Amyris, represented locally by Savannah Fine
care formulations).
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
31
Sustainable Practices
Sustainable palm is possible
BASF is working hard to improve the sustainability of the personal care industry by ensuring its products are produced from sustainably sourced palm products. The company hosted its second Palm Dialog at in-cosmetics Global with key industry stakeholders.
O
ne of BASF’s key renewable
BASF’s sustainability facts and figures
raw materials is palm
kernel oil and its primary
•
derivatives, which are
and other palm-based raw materials used by
mainly used to produce
the company
ingredients for cosmetics and detergents, as well as in human nutrition. In 2016, the company expanded its purchasing volumes by about 32 000 tonnes to 158 000 metric tonnes, and nearly doubled the sales of certified products based on palm Small holder farmers in Indonesia benefit from BASF’s palm commitment
kernel oil. ‘BASF has made good progress to achieving sustainable palm products
785 000ha
is the average area required for palm kernel oil
•
508 000 metric tonnes represents
BASF’s palm oil exposure
>800 of its raw materials are palm-based • 19 BASF RSPO-certified sites globally • By 2020 procurement of all palm-based •
oils will be RSPO-certified sustainable with upstream traceability
and we believe sustainable palm is possible. A reliable certification system and maximum transparency are key steps towards protecting high carbon stock forests,’ says Jan-Peter Sander, senior vice president, BASF personal care Europe. ‘This allows us to help our customers fulfill the obligations they took to achieve sustainable palm-based
products, and participate actively in shaping the market as it evolves.’
Driving market transformation At in-cosmetics Global, BASF introduced its first Palm Progress Report. This document details its roadmap for sustainable palm, collaboration along
PEF TO BE INTEGRATED IN CIRCULAR ECONOMY
the value chain and the progress the company is making in driving physical transformation in oleoderivatives. Gebze in Turkey is now the latest of BASF’s 19 certifi ed sites in four regions. The company also
THE EUROPEAN PET Bottle Platform (EPBP)
(FDCA). FDCA made from renewable resources
increased its range of products in the personal
has given interim approval for the recyclability
is the main building block for PEF. A final
care industry to more than 120 ingredients certifi ed
of polyethylenefuranoate (PEF), produced by
statement based on PEF quality, packaging
as ‘Mass Balance’.
Synvina – a joint venture between BASF and
designs and regional launch markets will
Avantium, located in Amsterdam. Following
be issued before market introduction of the
commitment and palm sourcing policy, which
EPBP’s assessment, PEF bottles are expected to
novel material. PEF is a bio-based plastic with
were first published in 2016, as well as its approach
be disposed through existing recovery systems
improved barrier properties for gases like
to include smallholder farmers. BASF became
in the same way as polyethylene terephthalate
carbon dioxide and oxygen, which leads to
a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable
(PET). The interim approval applies to a PEF
a longer shelf life of packaged products. PEF
Palm Oil in 2004 and belongs to the High Carbon
market penetration of up to two percent. This
is suitable as the main component or as a
Stock Steering Group, to drive additional forest
corresponds to the amount of PEF that could
barrier layer in flexible packaging, for personal
conservation requirements. ·
be produced from Synvina’s intended 50 000t
and home care products, and in bottles for
reference plant for furandicarboxylic acid
various beverages.
32
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
The report features the company’s palm
BASF – sapphirah.phala@basf.com
Sustainable Practices
Environmental and social innovation Flowers of Buchu (Agathosma crenulata)
Provital Group (Provital) has embraced the many facets of sustainability, which are now present in all aspects of its business. These include social, occupational, environmental and economic improvements, as well as reducing water and energy usage.
S
extract, and to obtain the same quantity
contributed to biodiversity maintenance
litre. There is no dependence on the
and provided a group of Mexican women
natural availability of the plant from which
the opportunity to earn a stable income
this active is obtained; the company also
using their traditional knowledge.
holds in depth information on the origin and traceability of the active ingredient.
While many local producers of natural, plant-based ingredients continue to grapple
The BioDeVaTe project is another example
to secure its bioprospecting permit from the
of the company’s sustainability efforts. In
Department of Environmental Affairs for the
2009, it signed a co-operation agreement
commercialisation of its active, Affipore.
with farmers from the la Vall del Tenes region, located 50km from Barcelona,
DID YOU KNOW?
longer a trend. It has become a basic need,
particularly if the industry wants to preserve the planet for future generations. As nature is
Mediterranean aromatic plants are cultivated organically in this region, which has
Over the last few years, Provital Group has improved its waste management, promoting the highest possible level of re-processing to become environmentally friendly.
Provital’s main stakeholder,
Source: 2015 Corporate Social Responsibility Report.
sustainability is present in all its activities.
Embracing local regulations
Fair trade and sustainable sourcing
to source certain plant extracts. ustainability is no
According to the company, the project
of Citrustem, Provital uses less than one
with BABS regulations, Provital has managed
The company says it is ‘the first internationally produced cosmetics active ingredient to receive a bioprospecting permit from the South African government’. It has also established agreements in terms of access and benefit sharing, as set
been under pressure from
out in the regulations, to ensure fair trade
urban projects.
and equal benefits for local communities.
Provital’s Xeradin active,
Provital purchases Agathosma betulina
together with other plant
plants, commonly known as Buchu,
extracts, are obtained
from these communities to produce the
from these Mediterranean
Affipore extract. ·
aromatic plants. This project not only covers sustainable
The company, represented locally by
sourcing but also fair trade, as many of
Savannah Fine Chemicals, obtains active
the workers in the area faced the risk of
ingredients from nature and has always
exclusion. Thanks to Provital, they now
understood that maintaining bio-diversity
enjoy a regular source of income and
and sustainable harvesting are essential.
have been able to improve their lives.
The group of Mexican women, who cultivate Agastache Mexicana and benefit from one Provital’s sustainability initiatives
Its portfolio ultimately mirrors the respect the company has for the environment. Many of the trends today, not only
Empowering Mexican women Sustainability is also strongly linked to
in cosmetics, but also other areas, are
biodiversity, which is essential to maintain
related to sustainability, such as the use of
the dynamic balance of our planet. A
plant stem cells in the cosmetics industry.
recent biodiversity project of Provital
Provital offers two actives produced
saw the company collaborate with the
from stem cells. Citrustem, from orange
University of Querétaro (México) and a
stem cells and Lingostem from the
group of women on the cultivation of
lingonberry. In both cases, the company
Agastache Mexicana, a flowering plant
uses far less water to obtain stem cells
species in the mint family, which is also
than it would to produce extracts of these
known as the Mexican giant hyssop. This
plants. Approximately 45ℓ of water is
plant provides the source for Provital’s
needed to obtain one kilogram of orange
active for stressed skin, Agascalm.
Provital Group – www.provitalgroup.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
33
Male Grooming
Fighting alopecia naturally A dense head of hair is the result of an equilibrium between loss
Silab, represented in South Africa by Meganede, has developed and tested Hairgenyl, a 100 percent natural anti-hair loss active, which supports the biological activity of the dermal papilla. It also stimulates hair follicle growth to re-normalise its development. By Mélanie Coirier, Emilie Lasjaunias and Brigitte Closs
Figure 1: The effect of Hairgenyl on the syntheses of versican and Ki-67 by hair follicles, ex vivo, in an alopecia model
and regrowth. Loss is a natural
phenomenon – a healthy person
loses between 50 and 125 hairs every day.
Accelerated hair loss, which is scientifically deemed alopecia, is perceived as premature ageing and can have considerable effects on the quality of life of individuals affected1. Androgenetic alopecia is a frequent disorder affecting up to 30 percent of men younger than 30, and more than 50 percent of men older than 502. It is characterised by the progressive appearance of thinner, shorter and unpigmented hair, forming down-like hair. Genetic and hormonal factors are the two main culprits, causing hypersensitivity to the hormone, dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This is responsible for all biological modifications occurring within this disorder. Certain environmental parameters may also contribute to the appearance of androgenetic alopecia. These include the repeated use of aggressive hair products, such as dyes and other chemical treatments, as well as smoking or exposure to UV3. During androgenetic alopecia, the functions of the following three main regulation factors, which play a major role in hair regeneration, are deficient and/or defective 4: 1. The mitochondrial dynamics – Because hair growth is a process that consumes energy, this energy is provided by the mitochondria cells’ ‘power plants’. These are dynamic organelles whose morphological confi guration determines energy production, which is an emerging concept in hair biology. 2. The signalling molecules – These enable communication among cells. In hair follicles, they coordinate the actions of papilla fibroblasts and matrix keratinocytes to ensure hair growth. 3. Epigenetics – This is a revolutionary mechanism that explains how the environment can determine the activity of genes. Several
34
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Figure 2: The effect of Hairgenyl on hair growth
Male Grooming
components are involved, including miRNAs, recently linked to the hair cycle. Currently, two chemical molecules have been
Hairgenyl provides an original and natural approach, reactivating the dermal papilla and stimulating hair follicle growth.
commercialised to treat androgenetic alopecia. the cases and their side effects are considerable,
A double hair regrowth and anti-hair loss efficacy
being oily hair, the appearance of dandruff, skin
An initial in vivo study was carried out with the
irritations, and libido issues. So, there is a genuine
phototrichogram to determine the hair regrowth
need to find a new approach that favours hair
effect of Hairgenyl formulated at 0.3 percent
growth while preventing the above-mentioned
in a lotion (see Figure 2). This experiment was
side effects 5.
conducted on a panel of 22 male volunteers with
Unfortunately, they are effective in less than half
There is a genuine need to find a new approach that favours hair growth
slight to moderate alopecia (mean
Development of 2D and 3D models
age of 43 ± eight years), applying the
To identify and demonstrate the efficacy of
product twice a day for eight months.
Hairgenyl, Silab developed 2D and 3D cell
The following parameters were analysed:
and tissue models mimicking androgenetic
hair density; number of hairs in anagen
alopecia. The 2D model of fibroblasts from the
phase (indicator of hair growth);
dermal papilla was adopted to define Hairgenyl’s
anagen/telogen ratio (hair growth
mechanism of action. The 3D tissue model of
coefficient); and the number of hairs in
spheroids mimicking the architecture of the
telogen phase (indicator of resting hair).
papilla and ex vivo studies on hair follicles (see
The capacity of Hairgenyl to
Figure 1) was used to determine the effect of the
reactivate hair growth is proven after
active ingredient on the function of the dermal
eight months of treatment; hair density increased
papilla. The biological modifications occurring
by +24.9 percent (P = 0.0001). The number of hairs
during androgenetic alopecia were mimicked by
in anagen phase increased by +49.1 percent
treating certain models with dihydrotestosterone
(P = 0.0001), whereas the number of hairs in
– a hormone classically used to induce
the telogen phase decreased by -26.1 percent
these disorders.
(P = 0.0001). This resulted in an increase of the
Demonstrated in 2D and 3D models, Hairgenyl acts on the three main (aforementioned) regulation mechanisms of hair regrowth. Silab
A/T ratio of +112.7 percent (P = 0.0005). A second in vivo
has proven for the first time that increasing
study was conducted to
mitochondrial fusion boosts the capacity for
determine the capacity
energy production, which is consumed in hair
of Hairgenyl, formulated
follicle growth. Tested at 0.04 percent on human
at 0.3 percent in a lotion,
hair follicle dermal papilla cells, Hairgenyl
to reduce hair loss in
stimulates the synthesis of mitofusin 1, which is
volunteers with slight
a protein involved in mitochondrial fusion, by
to moderate alopecia.
+52 percent.
This wash test carried
When tested on human hair follicle dermal
out by a professional
papilla cells treated with DHT, Hairgenyl at
hairdresser included
0.04 percent limits the expression of three
22 male volunteers (mean
signalling molecules in the microenvironment of
age of 43 ± eight years),
the dermal papilla, essential for hair growth:
who applied the product
1. IL-6 (interleukin-6) by -97 percent, which inhibits
twice a day for eight
growth of the hair shaft 2. DKK1 (Dickkopf 1) by -91 percent, an inhibitor
months. In the conditions of this study, the lotion
of the Wnt/ß-catenin pathway that causes the
containing 0.3 percent
hair cycle to enter latency
Hairgenyl stabilised
3. P16 by -71 percent, an inhibitor of the cell cycle
hair loss by limiting the
responsible for the premature senescence of
number of hairs lost by
dermal papilla fibroblasts.
-34.0 percent. This effect
In the components in epigenetics, 0.04 percent
was observed in 85 percent
Hairgenyl was tested on human hair follicle
of the volunteers.
dermal papilla cells treated with DHT. Results
Figure 3: Pichia minuta yeast, isolated from Rhododendron indicum flowers
A final self-evaluation
showed the active ingredient limits the
by volunteers confirmed
expression of two miRNAs, the source genes,
the efficacy of Hairgenyl. It
which are essential for hair growth. These
considerably reduced hair
are 3663-3p miRNA and let-7a-3p, by -50 and
loss in all the volunteers
-89 percent respectively.
who tested the product.
100 percent biotechnological Hairgenyl was developed using Silab’s extensive expertise in biotechnology. The active ingredient is rich in peptides obtained from the yeast Pichia minuta, which is isolated from Azalea flowers. This patented product is a preservative-free powder, resulting from a non-denaturing industrial process.
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
35
Male Grooming
They largely reported their hair was thicker (85
activity of the dermal papilla and stimulates hair
scalp was more densely covered (85 percent). All
follicle growth to re-normalise hair development.
the volunteers (100 percent) found the product
Hairgenyl targets the three regulators of hair regrowth
Tested over eight months on a group of male
to be satisfying and desired to continue
volunteers, Hairgenyl increased hair density
using Hairgenyl.
and limited hair loss. Hair became thicker, more resistant and the scalp was more densely covered.
Conclusive results
This active ingredient from Silab is a technologically
With proven efficacy on cell and tissue models
advanced solution that is proven to promote
that mimic androgenetic alopecia, Hairgenyl
hair’s regrowth. ·
targets the three regulators of hair regrowth: the mitochondrial dynamics; expression of signalling molecules and components in epigenetics.
Meganede – www.meganede.com Silab – www.silab.fr
REFERENCES:
Dermatology, 128, 1088-1094 (2008); Fawzi et al., Assessment of tissue
1. Han et al., Quality of Life Assessment in Male Patients with Androgenetic
levels of dickkopf-1 in androgenetic alopecia and alopecia areata. Journal of
Alopecia: Result of a Prospective, Multicenter Study. Annals of Dermatology,
Cosmetic Dermatology, 15, 10-15 (2015); Kwack et al., Dihydrotestosterone-
24, 311-318 (2012)
Inducible IL-6 Inhibits Elongation of Human Hair Shafts by Suppressing
2. Avital et al., Study of the International Epidemiology of Androgenetic Alopecia
Matrix Cell Proliferation and Promotes Regression of Hair Follicles in Mice.
in Young Caucasian Men using Photographs from the internet. Indian Journal
Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132, 43-49 (2012a); Lee et al., Analysis
of Dermatology, 60, 1-8 (2014)
of the microRNA expression profile of normal human dermal papilla cells
3. Cranwell et al., Male Androgenetic Alopecia. Endotext [internet], South Dartmouth (MA) (2000-2016); Mirmirani P. Age-related hair changes in men: Mechanisms and management of alopecia and graying. Maturitas, 80, 58-62
treated with 5α-dihydrotestosterone. Molecular Medicine Reports, 12, 12051212 (2015) 5. Cranwell et al., Male Androgenetic Alopecia. Endotext [internet], South
(2015); Pierard-Franchimont C., Pierard G.E. Les cheveux et leur environment
Dartmouth (MA) (2000-2016); Jain et al., Potential targets in the discovery
[Hair and its environment]. Revue Medicale de Liège, 70, 70-72 (2015)
of new hair growth promoters for androgenic alopecia. Expert Opinion on
4. Bahta et al., Premature Senescence of Balding Dermal Papilla Cells In Vitro Is Associated with P16INK4a Expression. Journal of Investigative
36
The active ingredient supports the biological
percent) and more resistant (95 percent), and their
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Therapeutic Targets, 18, 787-806 (2014); Trüeb R.M. Molecular mechanisms of androgenetic alopecia. Experimental Gerontology, 37, 981-990 (2002)
Male Grooming
Putting
facial hair first
M
Evonik has developed a unique and innovative formulation concept specifically designed for beard grooming needs. The new concept contains advanced formulations for the cleaning, conditioning and care of facial hair. ost of the shampoos and
formulation develops into a light foam
conditioners on the market
and gently dissolves dirt from head
professional assistance for new product
for men are made for head
and facial hair without dehydrating
developments, the selection of advanced
hair and not automatically
them. The formulation includes Tego
formulations and inspiring concepts
suitable for beards. Facial hair is thicker
Sulfosuccinate DO 75, which solubilises
for male grooming is currently being
and wirier than head hair, making it
oil and provides efficient foam, and
introduced on a global scale. ·
more likely to develop split ends. The skin
Varisoft EQ 100, which softens the beard
beneath a beard is also known to be
and skin.
As a source of inspiration and
Evonik – www.evonik.com
particularly dry. With these needs in mind, experts at Evonik Personal Care have developed an inspiring selection of formulations
Table 1
Phase
male grooming.
extended all-in-one concept – a hair, beard and body shampoo and shower oil (See Table 1). This combines the benefits of a shampoo, beard grooming and shower oil. The caring oil
% w/w ad 100.0
Polyquaternium-10 A
Star product concept One of the main highlights is an
Ingredient/INCI name Water
and new product ideas for shampoos, conditioning lotions and on-trend oils for
Refatting balsam shampoo for beard, hair and body (UL 5761/67)
0.5
Sodium Laureth Sulphate, 28%
10.7
Tego Betain F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
7.9
Glycerin
2.0
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
50.0
B
Varisoft EQ 100 (Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate
C
Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate)
4.0
Preservative
q.s.
Z
Perfume ‘Beard Refresh’, Fragrance Resources
1.0
0.30
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
37
Male Grooming
Customise for the unaccustomed
Men are still figuring out how to fit into the world of skin care and grooming. Peter Hays, associate analyst from GlobalData, says brands can do more to show them the way.
T
male consumers and normalise sophisticated grooming rituals. Brands cannot simply re-label existing products targeting women as being ‘for men’. Men have different preferences, concerns, and needs compared to their female counterparts. Brands
he male grooming market is a highly
traditionally positioned towards women will need to
dynamic category globally. Men’s toiletries
innovate in their values and products to win in this
including fragrances were valued at
space. Those that offer products that address male
US$30 billion globally in 2015. Men are
concerns in convenient, accessible, and masculine
increasingly image-conscious and becoming
ways will be able to capture the interest of this
accustomed to using personal care products,
consumer group.
59 percent of South African men, aged between 18 and 24, feel that social media has made them more self-conscious about their appearance
which drives increased true for South Africa
Social media and image-consciousness
too where the male
Almost half of male consumers globally between the
grooming category is
ages of 18 and 34 felt that social media had made
valued at US$315 million.
them more conscious about their appearance. This is
Local demand is
according to GlobalData’s 2016 survey.
spending. This holds
set to grow strongly,
Social media not only affects millennials, but also
depicted by a CAGR
consumers between the ages of 35 and 44 with over
of 6.1 percent over the
a third of these men globally feeling the same way.
2015 to 2020 period in
The potential for any moment to be captured in a
local currency terms.
photo and put on social media means one needs to
However, international
always ‘look good’. Even the act of scrolling through
brands may struggle to benefit from this growth as
social media sites invites comparison between
the weak exchange rate will dampen growth in US
oneself and friends, or celebrities – driving consumers
dollar terms. Nevertheless, this space holds significant
to actively take care of their appearance.
untapped potential. Although men globally are increasingly concerned
Young South African men are especially impacted by social media. Around 59 percent of South African
about their appearance they remain hesitant to
men, aged between 18 and 24, feel that social
develop complex skin care and grooming routines.
media has made them more self-conscious about
This is either due to lack of knowledge or because
their appearance. This generation, raised in an age
of stereotypes around male grooming. To capitalise
of globalisation and growing prosperity, has both
on this market, brands will need to educate
the social pressure and income to engage in more complex grooming rituals. By connecting with lifestyle bloggers, beauty vloggers, and other tastemakers, brands are learning how to capitalise on the impact of social media. By raising awareness through men like Mikey De Temple, a self-described photographer and surfer with 26 000 Instagram followers, Clinique for Men could connect with men in a seemingly organic way, normalising the use of its products. This is an ideal example of how tastemakers can help promote the idea that skin care is part of a stylish, masculine, and often adventurous lifestyle.
Men and their skin care needs This increased image-consciousness is also driving awareness around a number
38
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Male Grooming
of skin care concerns. According to GlobalData’s
products but brands can
2017 survey, the top five skin concerns for men
improve the ways they
globally are dry/flaky skin, skin elasticity/firmness,
appeal to men.
skin irritation/inflammation, sun damage and two-thirds of men globally being concerned about
Beard care offers the next dimension
these issues. Maintaining healthy skin and an even
There are some lessons
complexion is becoming a priority.
that can be learned from
dark circles or bags under their eyes with almost
Despite being increasingly aware of their
successful trends and
appearance, men have yet to fully embrace the
brands in male grooming.
steps to solve their concerns. The vast majority of
The trend in beard care
men surveyed are not currently buying products
is a prime example
that address issues such as dry and flaky skin, loss
of masculine image-
of elasticity of firmness, irritation/inflammation, sun
consciousness. Without
damage, and dark circles.
sacrificing their masculinity,
That is not to say that men aren’t interested in
men can engage in
skin care products, because nearly half of those
sophisticated multi-step grooming rituals
who say they are concerned about maintaining
designed to keep their beards looking both
skin elasticity or having dry skin say they would
healthy and stylish. An extensive beard care
consider buying products that address these issues
process might include a regular trim, a wash with a
in the future.
beard shampoo and a beard conditioner, beard oils
Brands must ask what is holding men back from buying products designed to address these concerns. Lack of knowledge and stereotypes
and styling wax or gel. The resulting well-kept beard is an expression of hygiene, taste and masculinity. It seems obvious that beard care products should
around male grooming are a few of the serious
be designed for men but the way many brands
roadblocks for the male grooming market. Men
approach targeted male personal care products
may be interested in grooming and personal care
is akin to trying to market a women’s shampoo
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
39
Male Grooming
Michael Mikiala, a South African skin care brand for men, exemplifies a brand that addresses male-specific issues. Its range includes a bump lotion, which is designed to help men deal with ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Other products, such as its exfoliators, help promote an even complexion while claiming
DID YOU KNOW?
as a beard wash product. Men seek products that are designed especially for them because it is both
darkened beard area’.
Instill comfort and Steps and products used in a beard care routine are ideal ways confidence in men to target men in other personal The future of male skin care is care product categories. These bright. Younger generations of products are directly marketed to male consumers are far more men, address a male-specific comfortable with using grooming condition, and balance hygiene and style. products than previous generations.
less emasculating and more effective. Three in five men globally agree they would
As this group ages, this comfort is likely to permit the growth of increasingly sophisticated
be more likely to purchase products specifically
grooming rituals and anti-ageing products.
developed for their gender (GlobalData’s 2016
Brands should seek to capture this interest early
survey). This is even more true in South Africa
on by targeting male consumers with tailored
where this figure increases to 71 percent.
solutions and subtle masculine claims.
Bulldog Skincare, a UK-based skincare brand
Bulldog attracted male consumers with its no-frills packaging
to ‘free ingrown hairs and brighten the
While this skin care market may never match
designed and marketed exclusively for men, is
women’s skin care in size, it still holds massive
evidence of the potential available to brands,
potential. A huge proportion of men are,
which can make men comfortable about buying
despite becoming more image-conscious and
skin care. Bulldog attracted male consumers with
aware of the quality of their skin, timid about
its no-frills packaging, solution-oriented claims,
buying personal care products. Brands could
and male-oriented message. According to
revolutionise this space by not only tapping
a 2013 industry interview with Simon Duffy,
into loyal consumers but also those who are
founder of Bulldog Skincare, within six years
becoming interested in, though not yet buying,
of its launch in 2007, the men’s skin care
personal care products. Brands need to open
was available in 12 countries across Europe
up the market by making them comfortable with
and Asia.
buying skin and body care products. They also
Men need products not only marketed to them but designed for their specific needs: razor bumps; facial hair; increased
need to make it clear that their needs are directly being addressed. Ultimately, newer brands can learn from
sweat production; dandruff; and thicker
successful beard care products – men want
skin requiring more exfoliation. These are
products that are tailored to their needs,
all issues that men’s personal care brands
solutions oriented, and
can target.
intuitively masculine. ·
ABOUT Prior to joining GlobalData as an associate analyst, Peter Hays completed an MSc in economy, risk and society at the London School of Economics. Hays has supported and managed consulting projects for some of the biggest global personal care brands. As a result, he has developed an in-depth understanding of brand strategies and consumers’ preferences.
GlobalData – www.globaldata.com
40
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
SOUTH AFRICAN
PackagingREVIEW www.pharmacos.co.za
June 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 6
Tube innovations and trends
Brand protection solutions Frosted effects for premium packaging
News
Packaging for your palette IN A DIGITAL era that powers personalisation and
Ongoing concerns surrounding the lucrative market
customisation, cosmetics and pharmaceutical manufacturers
of counterfeit products brings to your hands the security
leverage packaging to delight consumers. Customisation is
features for pharmaceutical and cosmetics products.
currently a hot topic with statistics pointing to an increase in
You can read about these on page 45.
consumer interest for product and pack personalisation. Customers expect better, personalised care products,
Yours in packaging.
which help them not only look younger, but feel healthier for longer. This specific focus is discussed in our tubes feature on page 43 where you can read all about innovations, trends
Assistant Editor
and user-friendly applicators.
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
TECHNOLOGY TO ACHIEVE GREATER DIFFERENTIATION DUPONT PERFORMANCE MATERIALS (DuPont) recently introduced innovative examples using its Surlyn ionomer resins to achieve a one-step frosted effect for cosmetics caps, bottles and jars. This effect is accomplished straight from the mould. It enables fine details, pleasant tactile quality and consistency without the need for a secondary process. The solar lamps will provide light for children to enable learning when its dark
Paper supplier lights up education ARJOWIGGINS GRAPHIC, A manufacturer
‘Brand owners are constantly looking for new ways to differentiate their offerings, and a frosted effect is a unique decoration that creates a sense of premiumisation in both the look and feel,’ says Jennifer Li, marketing leader: industrial and consumer, at DuPont. She says the company collaborates with industry partners to expand the possibilities of packaging design. ‘This is done so that designers can create packages straight out of their imaginations,’ Li adds. The unique properties of Surlyn enable it to copy the fine, intricate details of a mould to achieve a high gloss design with an entirely, or partially, frosted appearance. By applying this frosted effect in the mould, Surlyn offers increased production efficiency and lower cost for manufacturers looking to achieve this effect for their packs. It offers the transparency of glass without the fragility, and can
of environmentally friendly paper solutions, is
be frosted, faceted or finished to obtain special effects. It can
collaborating with Childfund Alliance to support the
also be coloured to create elegant translucency.
education of children in Mali.
Surlyn allows the use of many different decorative
For this year’s annual Cyclus campaign,
techniques for cosmetics. These include metallisation, hot
the company is helping to provide solar lamps
stamping and lacquering, as well as marbling, bubbling,
to children living in the villages where there is
glittering and suspended animations.
no electricity.
The glitter effect
The global ‘Light to Learn’ campaign hopes to raise awareness of Cyclus’s 100 percent recycled papers’ and first-rate environmental and ethical credentials. It calls on designers, printers, print managers and end users to watch a video highlighting this challenging issue which is featured
SQUEEZE DISPENSER ENABLES PRESERVATIVE-FREE EYE CARE APTAR PHARMA’S PATENTED
and only FDA-approved
eye irritation or an allergic
preservative-free ophthalmic
multidose delivery system
reaction because of certain
will fund a solar lamp for one child in the village. The
squeeze dispenser, containing
to handle prescription eye
preservatives in formulations.
intention is to provide 200 solar lamps by the end
cyclosporine ophthalmic
treatment formulations
These consumers appreciate
of the campaign. It started at the beginning of May,
emulsion, is now available in
without any preservatives.
that preservatives can be
and ends on 30 June.
the US prescription market.
The company is working
removed from eye care
The Restasis Multidose
closely with Allergan
medications with this new
Spain, Malaysia, China and the UK, this latest
product contains 0.05 percent
to improve patient
squeeze dispenser. The
initiative is part of the company’s ongoing
of cyclosporine ophthalmic
safety, achieve dosing
system is the result of more
commitment to fund the education of children in
emulsion by eye care
accuracy and maintain
than 10 years of development
less privileged parts of the world.
specialist, Allergan.
product integrity.
and experience in the
online at www.mali.cycluspaper.com. For every 25 video views, Arjowiggins Graphic
Launching globally in 35 countries, including
The campaign has been rolled out in South Africa by Papersmith & Son, a stockist of Cyclus.
42
| JUNE 2017 | Packaging Review
The launch makes Aptar Pharma’s dispenser the first
An increasing number of patients experience
delivery of preservative-free ophthalmic solutions.
Tubes
Your gateway to tubes Innovative offerings play a key role in driving the demand for tubes. PACKAGING REVIEW delves into new innovations that provide the correct and accurate product dose, trends in the market and user-friendly applicators for low viscosity products. By Aarifah Nosarka DID
O
(Neopac) Spin’n’dose tube won
NEW PHARMACEUTICAL TUBE APPLICATOR
the 2017 World Star Award in the
Last September, Neopac
n 4 May, Hoffmann Neopac’s
The Stylo bristle tube for pharmaceutical products
YOU KNOW?
and guarantees product
The functionality of tubes to protect the product and prevent spillage drives the preference of this type of packaging for cosmetics.
medical and pharmaceutical category.
launched two cosmetics
The innovative dispensing wheel doses
applicators, the Stylo Pipette
exact amounts from the tube when turned
and Stylo Liner. These ensure
180 degrees, without a pump.
precise or meticulous applications
protection. Described as an easy-to-use tube with a ‘stylo-look’, the packaging ensures product flow owing to its rotating function. The Stylo bristle is
available in polyfoil, coextruded
for liquid or cream products to the skin.
and polyethylene tube materials. The
and gels are measured out easily
They are specifically designed to apply
tube’s materials fulfill pharmaceutical
and precisely through the tube. After
low viscosity products.
requirements in line with the European
Semi-liquid products like creams
a minimal modification to the dosing system, the dispensing wheel is adjusted
‘Contents stay where they belong,’ says Schmid. The cosmetics applicators’
Pharmacopoeia, as well as regarding contact with foodstuffs according to EU
Buyer’sguide launch is followed by the recent
dosages of between 0.05 to one millilitre.
introduction of the Stylo bristle tube for
THE
to supply new, precise, predefined
When selecting packaging materials, the dosage quantity for individual
pharmaceutical products.
‘Whether for antibacterial solutions,
No 10/2011 and FDA 21 CFR.
CHILD-RESISTANT POLYFOIL TUBES The desire for personal care products
formulations and substances can
scar treatment or oral or dental
tailored to a specific hair or skin type
be adjusted.
products, the brand new Stylo bristle
opens up many new possibilities in the
tube applicator supports the gentle
cosmetics industry. This ranges from
Neopac, says airless and pump tubes form
application of lotions, creams and gels
facial care to consumers’ involvement
a fixed and established component of the
on skin,’ she adds.
Cornelia Schmid, head of marketing at
company’s range of tubes. ‘It is difficult
The new tube provides the precise
to dose a larger amount in one go of any
application of liquid and low viscosity
cream or gel that is highly viscous. This is
pharmaceutical products. It is hygienic,
where our new Spin’n’dose can be used,’
has an easy-to-clean bristle applicator
she explains.
protected by a cone-shaped cap
2016/2017
The Stylo liner for cosmetics liquids or cream products
THE
y r sg ye sgui Buyer’sguide
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
2016/2017
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Packaging Review | JUNE 2017 |
43
Tubes
Changes compel applicable offerings Industry categories such as skin care,
forms for application of natural as well as
skin glossing, face makeup, and more have
luxury cosmetics.
created growth prospects and investment
changing lifestyles of people and increasing
packaging market.
ratio of middle-class women. These days, the
Cosmetic tubes have proven to be an
The Stylo Pipette
The industry has evolved due to the
opportunities for the overall cosmetics
grooming trend is not restricted to women as
effective solution for delivering and dispensing
it continues to show growth among men too.
products for end use. Future Market Insights
Considerable changes in the market dynamics
reports that the global cosmetic tubes market
have compelled cosmetics packaging
is characterised by product offerings that
manufacturers to respond with effective
include tubes in laminated or transparent
product offerings.
An oval laminate tube for cosmetics
in product development and even new,
from aluminium barrier laminate and plastic
intelligent technology. The international
barrier laminate to Reflexion.
cosmetics industry has responded with
The tubes can be developed to include
various measures and products to this
intricate designs, realistic photo prints,
long-standing, popular trend. Leading the
matte or shiny effects, and multi-coloured or
innovation pathway, Neopac launched a
sophisticated metallic effects.
13.5 mm diameter polyfoil nozzle tube with a child-resistant closure. Kiehl’s, a brand owned by L’Oréal Paris,
Each tube comprises an almost invisible side seam owing to the company’s Perfectiseam technology, which is only
uses this packaging for its customisable
suitable for laminate tubes. There are
skin care range, Kiehl’s Apothecary
various cap and applicator options such
Preparations, available in the US. The
as flip top, screw top, nozzle and more. The
polyfoil tube has been designed to
company also has a digital platform, Albéa
accommodate highly concentrated
Mix&Match, which allows the user to create
formulas containing hydrocarbons, which
customised tubes virtually.
necessitates the demand for child-resistant closures on packaging. It further ensures
RIGID TUBE FILLER
that contents are well protected.
Romaco’s new product line includes the release of a machine designed for filling
AESTHETIC TRENDS
effervescent tablets into tubes. The launch of
Dorothée de Courson, marketing director
the Siebler STF 120 rigid tube filling machine
at Albéa Tubes, says the current cosmetics
expands the company’s packaging portfolio
trends are shiny tubes with metallic
for effervescent products. This redesigned
effects and intricate designs. There is a
system meets all requirements for the quick
demand for tubes that stand out on shelf
and easy cleaning of the tube filler. The
while at the same time preserve more
machine’s tablet conveyor belt in the feeding
delicate formulations.
area can be replaced in a matter of minutes.
‘These new aesthetic codes help beauty brands expand their seasonal collections and limited editions by providing pioneering, top quality, personalised products in very short time frames. This helps them stand out from the competition. Laminated cosmetics tubes are an ideal solution for beauty brands,’ says de Courson. The company’s laminate tubes include a large range of round or oval shaped offerings with diameters from 19 to 50mm for
The brand new Stylo Bristle tube applicator supports the gentle application of lotions, creams and gels on skin This automatic solution combines high speed production with optimal process control and premium quality. Fragile effervescent tablets are gently filled according to the rotation principle. Transfer modules with pick and place functionality permit the safe transportation of tubes through the packaging process. This enables high output and reproducibility. Only a small number of format parts are required to retool the machine. The Romaco Siebler STF 120 series is the ideal solution for large batches and blockbuster products. Many settings are completely independent of specific formats, like the adjustment of filling volumes or the ability to adapt to producing different tube lengths. Short tubes that are no more than 50mm in length can be processed and the safe handling of sensitive aluminium tubes is possible. The Romaco Siebler STF 120 achieves a maximum output of 120 tubes per minute. This is the result of tubes transferred to the filling station in clusters. Fragile effervescent tablets are filled with extreme care because of the rotation principle, which is suitable for all tablets with hardness down to 40 newtons. · Spin’n’dose tube
10 to 300mℓ filling capacity. There are different structures available for various barrier levels and looks range Metallic effects on plastic laminate
44
| JUNE 2017 | Packaging Review
Albéa – www.albea-group.com Hoffman Neopac – www.neopac.com Romaco – www.romaco.com
Security Features for Packaging
Prevent counterfeit proliferation Tamper-evident labels, high-tech security inks, and secure codes are increasingly used to prevent the lucrative counterfeit pharmaceuticals and cosmetics trade. PACKAGING REVIEW delves into developments in robust turnkey real-time monitoring solutions and secure packaging methods. By Aarifah Nosarka
BEGUILING ANTICOUNTERFEIT SOLUTIONS SICPA recently partnered with ION Equity (ION), a corporate finance firm in Ireland, to launch an anti-counterfeiting solution for over-the-counter medications in
A
Kenya. This was part of ION’s ‘Mydawa
lthough the pharmaceutical
elsewhere. Counterfeiting is like a virus
platform’, which aims to provide access to
industry has succeeded in
that attacks healthy, successful brands
quality medicines, while offering robust,
providing access to safe
and puts at risk the patients who rely on
effective authentication.
medicines, counterfeiting poses a life-
them for their health and well-being,’
threatening risk to that success. What
she comments.
The solution consists of two tamperevident labels using high-tech security inks. One of the labels has a serialised
makes the threat urgent is the expected rise in chronic diseases such as cancer,
THE CAUSE AND CURE
smartphone-readable QR code and a
diabetes and heart diseases.
Greed is a key driver of counterfeit
scratch section concealing a unique
products. For ruthless criminals, the
secure ID code. To check if the medication
financial incentive is high.
is real or not, patients with smartphones
Counterfeiting is like a virus that attacks healthy, successful brands and puts patients at risk
‘Various sources estimate fake
can use the Mydawa app to read the
medicines and medical devices to
QR code. Patients without a smartphone
be worth between US$75 billion and
can scratch to reveal the concealed ID
US$200 billion per year,’ says Le Tadic. To
code, which they then SMS, or send via the
fi ght the scourge, she says it is important
platform’s website.
to address the root cause, as focusing on technology only is not effective.
About three years ago, the World
SICPA has identifi ed a holistic
Health Organization (WHO) estimated
approach, which is what makes the
that chronic diseases would account
company unique.
for 42 percent of deaths in sub-Saharan
‘The company provides an end-to-end
Africa by 2030. To manage chronic
risk-management process, which starts
illnesses, patients are required to take
with a full security assessment identifying
regular doses of treatments delivered
a company’s needs and risks. This is vital
using a medical device. The WHO
for identifying weak spots, especially
approximates that about eight percent
since many health care companies work
of medical devices sold worldwide are
with various partners along their value
fakes. As chronic diseases rise, so does
chain. An example of this is outsourcing
the risk of patients coming across fake
production to contract manufacturing
medications or medical devices.
organisations,’ she explains.
Fabienne Le Tadic, executive president
Combined with the high value of the
for product & brand protection at
products themselves, such complexities
SICPA SA says the need to act is urgent.
make pharmaceutical companies
‘The technologies to do so are on the
vulnerable to supply chain infiltration,
market. However, the true challenge lies
product tampering and counterfeiting.
Data gathered from instantaneous authentication using a handheld detector can be uploaded and aggregated on a secure inspection platform
Packaging Review | JUNE 2017 |
45
Security Features for Packaging
The solution offers traceability
a smar tphone Labels have code and QR ble da rea g on concealin scratch secti re ID code cu se e iqu a un
IN-PLASTIC PROTECTION WITH REAL-TIME MONITORING
do not require the use of an expensive
of a medication, proof of origin
proprietary reader. Each particle is 100 to
of the product and peace of
200 microns or smaller in size with micro-
mind for the patients buying the
engraved lettering that are 10 to 20 microns
medication. The risk management
in size. It can include a company name
process does not end with design.
and other identifying information. Tracers
SICPA accompanies its clients
can also be formulated into the coating of
through the phase of system
a pill. To confirm the pill’s authenticity, the
deployment and all the way to
tracers are located using a black light and
performance monitoring.
can be read under a microscope. All the
‘We are especially attentive to
materials involved in the production of the
the needs of our pharmaceutical
tracers are safe and relatively chemically
clients. They operate under some
inactive. The particles can be included into
of the strictest regulations in the
or on pills, capsules, packaging and labels.
world. Knowing their challenges
Tracers are easy to identify, useful for
and constraints, we aim to
various purposes, reliable, regulatory
minimise the impact on the
compliant and can contain a
manufacturing process when
customisable message. ·
deploying and operating our security solutions,’ says Le Tadic. Real-time performance is vital in taking action against a counterfeiter. ‘Enforce
SICPA – www.sicpa.com Traceability Solutions – www.tracesol.co.za
your rights when you find someone trying to fake your product,’ she asserts.
CUSTOMISABLE TRACING SOLUTIONS Traceability Solutions offers secure
PLASTIWARD IS AN anti-counterfeiting
micro-engraved tracers, holograms,
measure that SICPA developed and launched
highly secure Pelta 2D codes, UV, DNA
in collaboration with Clariant. It is designed for
and IR inks, as well as track and trace
plastic medical devices and pharmaceutical
software platforms.
packaging. It aims to protect patients against
The company provides solutions of
counterfeit products. This turnkey system,
a class of anti-counterfeiting products
which offers in-product protection, enables
known as ‘tracers’ or ‘taggants’. Known as
company inspectors to check if a plastic
Secur tracers, these micro-sized particles
medical device is real or not. The data is
are added onto or within a proprietary
uploaded onto a secure inspection platform
product as a means of differentiating it
with real-time monitoring. By pooling this
from counterfeits or generics.
real-time field-inspection data, companies can
Gary Chilton, general manager
create a reliable picture and take speedy legal
at Tracepack says these tracers are
countermeasures if needed.
unique because they comprise food/ pharmaceutical grade materials and
46
| JUNE 2017 | Packaging Review
Micro-sized particles are added onto or within a proprietary product, which helps differentiate between counterfeits
Association News//
Introducing
Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Southern Africa The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers (NAPM) has rebranded and changed its name to Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Southern Africa (GBM). The association – launched 40 years ago – continues to keep pace with global industry developments.
T
he GBM is the successor to the
says the logo is made up
NAPM and represents the interests
of various elements. ‘The
of generic and biosimilar medicine
outstretched arms welcome
manufacturers and marketers in South
like-minded pharmaceutical
Africa. The association’s mission is to
companies aligned with
champion greater access to medicine by
the association’s ethos. The
the South African population.
leaves illustrate the GBM’s
Gavin Steel says the 71 to 88 percent price reduction in hypertension medicine is one of the many successes achieved by generic medicines during the last 15 years
Gavin Steel, chief director at National Department of Health
aim for safe, affordable
(DoH), was also present at the
chairman of GBM, the pharmaceutical
and efficacious medicines
event. He led an interesting
industry has developed and changed
for patients in South and
discussion on various challenges
substantially over the years. ‘While
southern Africa.’
and successes within the South
According to Cipla’s Herman Grobler,
African pharmaceutical industry
manufacturing in South Africa hasn’t kept pace, and the NAPM has continued
GROWTH IN GENERIC ULTILISATION
and the generics sector. ‘Although our health
to change its focus from manufacturing
In South Africa, generic medicines have
care system has become fairly fragmented
and supply to also addressing the needs
allowed our country to have the most
as a lack of communication between various
of patients and their access to affordable
robust and accessible HIV programme in
entities and government, our cluster is
and quality medicines,’ he comments.
the world.
going to be turning the pharma sector on its
Over the past two years, various
Speaking at the event, Madeleine
international pharma industry
Bester from Mediscor, says there
associations representing the interests of manufacturers of generic medicines have changed their names and strategic focus to incorporate biosimilars. The NAPM has followed suite with its rebranding. Revealing the GBM’s new
DID YOU KNOW?
launches,’ he explains.
has been a good increase in
Government has for long been saying
generic utilisation in South
that boosting local manufacturing is the
Africa over the past nine
South Africa has the lowest years. ‘The industry is priced ARVs in the world because making great advances of voluntary licensing and the use of because of increased generic medicines. As a result, one in four people in South Africa availability. The treatment now has access to treatment of HIV/Aids remains a and consumes muchsuccess area in the use of needed ARVs.
logo at a conference, which took
head in the coming months with a series of
generic meds with 73.9 percent
of medicines used in 2015 for
route to alleviating unemployment in the country. This is particularly true in the pharmaceutical industry, where there is immense opportunity for local production, yet packaging components and products are still largely imported. Steel explains, ‘At least 80 percent of the value of one generic product lies in its packaging, including the package insert.
place on 11 May at Blue Valley Hills
HIV/Aids treatment being generic,’
It makes no sense to import packaging
Estate in Midrand, Gauteng, Grobler
says Bester.
when we could be creating opportunities for
Herman Grobler and Vivian Frittelli, CEO of the GBM (formerly NAPM), revealing the new branding and logo for Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Southern Africa
She congratulated the NAPM on its
entrepreneurs in the packaging arena where
rebranding stressing the importance of
there is low barrier to entry. We need to adopt
biosimilars in driving down costs and
a vision that provides a conduit for young
increasing patient access to necessary
entrepreneurs to access the resources to
treatment. ‘Biological entities are very
establish local packaging businesses.’
expensive,’ comments Bester, ‘the average cost per patient is around R70 000 per year, sparking a definite
He believes the GBM is going to take health care in South Africa into the next era. Steel also mentioned the South African
demand for biosimilars to curb the high
pharmaceutical industry has world-class
costs associated with treating illnesses
regulatory standards, and is in the ‘same
like cancers.’
league as the US FDA’. •
P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
47
Association News//
Coschem heats up with golf, Google trends and a suppliers’ day in May SWINGING AND WINNING AT KYALAMI COUNTRY CLUB ON 16 MAY, golfers participating in Coschem’s 2017 golf day were greeted with clear blue sky and a beautiful sunny day. This year, the event returned to Kyalami Country Club in Midrand Gauteng, where 19 four balls took to the course to contest for the top spot. The winning four ball was Air Products, and the sale of the mulligans, totalling R3 350, was donated to TLC Children’s Home in Eikenhof, south of Johannesburg, which faced a harrowing series of robberies in November 2016. Ultimately, Coschem’s 21st golf day was an immense success, thanks to the association’s social committee, and the support from sponsors and golfers alike.
Children from TLC with Rohit Desai, who handed over the donation on behalf of Coschem
48
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Pierre Van Niewenhuizen, Cosmo Industrial’s sales director; Damian Swanepoel, Air Products’ distributor sales engineer; Lynette Gough from Cosmetic Ingredients (trophy sponsor); Kirsten Scott from Wacker and 2017 Coschem president; Jorg Scholz, Air Products’ business manager: distributors; and Andries Taljaard, Unique Welding Alloys’ key accounts manager
Association News//
2017 BEAUTY TRENDS REVEALED IF YOU’RE INTERESTED in skin care trends and consumer preferences in Japan, the US and France, Google has compiled a unique beauty trends report using search engine data. Entitled Think with Google Beauty Trends 2017, from Vantage provided insight into the highlights of this report at Coschem’s afternoon lecture on 12 May. The event, hosted at Evonik in Midrand, was exceptionally well attended. Be it Japan, France or the US – each market has distinct values when it comes to skin care. These range from a strong need in Japan to understand the science behind different beauty regimes and a keen appetite for trying new offerings in France and the US. ‘These trends are relevant to Africa as consumers on certain parts of the continent are influenced either by America or France,’ MacCallum explains. ‘Masks are leading in the US market; charcoal is also big. Skin bleaching however is on the decline, which is a major positive considering the damaging effects. The vegan trend continues to grow in prominence, and is even penetrating the fragrance segment with the recent launch of a vegan fragrance in France. There is
also a spotlight trend developing in cellulite related products, with the average French consumer 30 times more likely to search for these products than their American or Japanese counterparts.’ MacCallum took an in depth look at searches related to masks, and consumers’ top concerns associated with these beauty treatments. When asked why users are turning to masks, acne featured as the main reason. ‘To achieve dark lips contrasted with a light complexion, Japanese consumers are now using peel off lip masks to redden their lips,’ she adds. ‘Originally launched in Korea, sheet masks have migrated to France where they are now a popular choice to address acnerelated skin care concerns.’ MacCallum also urged attendees to search ‘masks’ on YouTube to see some of the interesting and bizarre online content related to the masking trend. ‘Masks-related video content on YouTube enjoy statistically high views, and on other
social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook, we’re seeing an increase in the use of skin care products. This could be attributed to social activity linked to masks where one can involve family and friends. In Japan, masks have migrated beyond the face with brands developing masks for hands and feet.’ Ingredients trends were also discussed with food related ones big in the US while plant-based ingredients are prominent in France. ‘However, Japanese consumers focus on quality ingredients,’ comments MacCallum. ‘Another interest search featured in the report is bath bombs for kids. Men’s skin care is also a theme to watch across all markets. Although male grooming appears to be seasonal, global players like Nivea are continuing to expand on their offerings for men.’ Kim MacCallum
INAUGURAL SUPPLIERS’ DAY A MASSIVE SUCCESS DRIVEN BY MEMBERS MEMBERS’ requests and industry need, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosted its first skin care actives suppliers’ day on 3 May. The inaugural event took place at its office in Johannesburg and saw around 90 people attending. Coschem member companies that supply skin care actives were invited to take part in the suppliers’ day, and no costs were involved in exhibiting. Exhibitors included BASF/ Botanichem, Carst & Walker, Evonik, IMCD South Africa/CLR, Merck, Millchem, Orkila, Savannah Fine Chemicals, Siyeza Fine Chem and Vantage Specialty Chemicals. One exhibitor said the event was an immense success, noting just how valuable it was to take part. Another
exhibitor was so impressed with the amount of leads generated at the first suppliers’ day. Every visitor to the skin care actives suppliers’ day was a quality one. They ranged from formulators and product developers to brand owners and manufacturers from the local cosmetics industry. The visitors loved the buzz and opportunity for interaction provided. They looked forward to forthcoming suppliers’ days hosted by the society. These types of events present the perfect opportunity for buyers and sellers to come together to exchange information of products and ideas for innovation. Coschem now has plans to organise suppliers’ days in Cape Town and KwaZuluNatal, to ensure formulators, developers, brand owners and manufacturers from across the country have access to the unique benefits of one-on-one interactions with suppliers to the industry. P C Review | JUNE 2017 |
49
Tea time
Crossword clues ACROSS 1. Evensong 5. Expressing much in few words 6. Result 7. Medical procedure 1
DOWN 1. Asinine 2. Legislator 3. Part of a broadcast serial 4. Stage set
2
3
4
5
6
7
Sudoku 6 9
9 2
3 8
3 2
1
8
1
TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
9
7
4
Carla Melless Sales executive
8
2
3
6
4 5
7
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
9
5 3
2
7
Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
o6 Agencies............................................36 ........www.o6southafrica.com
Evonik .....................................................37 ........www.evonik.com
Amchem .................................................29 ........www.amchem.co.za
H&R Group.............................................. 17 ........www.hur.com
BASF .................................................... OBC ........www.carecreatuins.basf.com
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories .........25 ........www.hersol.co.za
Biotech Solutions ....................................27 ........www.iotechsolutions.co.za
Lonza Group ...........................................21 ........www.lonzapreservation.com
Brunational ............................................ IFC ........www.brunational.co.za
Puregas ....................................................7 ........www.puregas.co.za
CJP Chemicals .......................................26 ........www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Savannah Fine Chemicals...............OFC, 13 ........www.sfc-info@savannah.co.za
Clariant.....................................................5 ........www.clariant.com/beautyforward
Sensetek.................................................39 ........www.sensetek.biz
Crest Chemicals ..................................... 19 ........www.crestchem.co.za
Specialised Exhibitions ...........................46 ........www.propakcape.co.za
Eco Products .......................................... 15 ........www.ecoproducts.co.za
50
+27 (0)83 260 6060
3
| JUNE 2017 | P C Review
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and
and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown
closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is
seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff
your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &
agents I Concentrates
cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
NOVOPAK
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
Novopak is a plastic packaging
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,
company that specializes in
cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
manufacturing a complete range
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.
Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme
Your No. 1 industry leader
offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social
for the most comprehensive
needs and well being.
ranges of both synthetic and
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across
natural colours – used in food,
SA, cosmetics are used as tools
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to address visible side effects of
industrial applications.
treatment to assist patients to restore
Tablet coatings – manufactured,
self-esteem and face the world
supplied and marketed globally
with confidence.
under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.lgfb.co.za
www.quantumcolours.co.za