SAPICS 2024 tackles logistics challenges and sustainability
Learning to love wash days!
There is enormous opportunity for innovation in hair care, especially in South Africa. Growth in the category is fuelled by the natural hair care movement and the demand for products that help prevent damage, control frizz, tame edges and help take the stress out of wash days.
I have Type 2a hair, according to the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, and wash and straighten it up to four times a week. This takes a lot of time and energy but not nearly as much as the time and energy it takes to wash, dry and style curly and tightly coiled hair – Types 3 and 4 specifically. My colleagues with these types of hair mostly loathe wash day. Even salon days can be stressful and tiring for them. But hair care shouldn’t have to be like this for consumers with textured hair.
In this edition of P&C Review, we see industry stepping up to the challenge to develop solutions that seek to eliminate wash-day stress and help care for textured hair. From IMCD’s new Beauty Studio in South Africa to Botanichem’s recommended product line-up for curly and coily hair, our hair care feature is
packed with interesting reads to power up your new product development journey and help you meet consumers’ needs. Turn to page 12 to read more. In our regulatory update, CTFA’s Nadia Rashid discusses additions to the prohibited and restricted lists included in the association’s Cosmetic Compendium. The restricted list now features entries that will have a significant impact on the industry. Learn more on page 10 We also explore minimalism as a key trend in beauty packaging. As buyers look for functional yet appealing packaging designs, brands must consider trends at both ends of the design spectrum. Read about this on page 30 I hope you like our August magazine. We’re channeling spring in this edition in the hope that the cold days and nights will soon be behind us.
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Fast, superior capsule filling technology
Electa is the newest top-of-the-range capsule filling machine to be introduced in MG2’s E series. It can be equipped with one or two dosing units, and statistical or 100% net weight controls. Compared to Essentia, the first model in the series launched in 2023, Electa’s performance is doubled.
The new capsule filler boasts a production speed of 200 000 capsules per hour, even in the case of different product combinations being filled into the same capsule. In addition to these benefits, Electa has all the trusted quality and characteristics of every technological concept from MG2, including modularity, flexibility, and accuracy in capsule filling operations.
Undisputed finished product quality is guaranteed by the 100% net weight control systems, which are consolidated flagship solutions of MG2 and further improved in the NETT and the MultiNETT.
Following the human-centered design approach, Electa presents a completely new concept. Its modern and ergonomic design is
complemented by the control-tower shape with a 21-inch HMI.
The high-quality materials and fine finishes improve the operator’s experience and facilitate productivity in every aspect, ensuring maximum ease of access to cleaning and size change over operations.
Key features of Electa include:
• the reduced parts in contact with the product
• greater production efficiency with simultaneous reduction of the residual product in the machine
• a pre-arrangement for production autonomous driving systems.
The capsule filling machine is designed to meet manufacturing facility performance demands and the operator’s needs. MG2 continues to increase humancentered technological development on manufacturing equipment where ergonomics, flexibility and accuracy come together to ensure superior performance.
LactoSpore found safe and effective for children
Sabinsa, a global leader in the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industries, has had published another clinical study on the heat-stable probiotic LactoSpore®, adding to the robust body of science on this well-established ingredient.
In January 2024, ‘Weizmannia coagulans MTCC 5856 as adjunct therapy in children's acute diarrhea – a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study’ was published in the peerreviewed journal Frontiers in Pediatrics. LactoSpore was evaluated in 110 non-hospitalised children, in the age group of one to 10 years, with acute diarrhea. The children received LactoSpore (400 million spores per day, N = 54) plus oral hydration solution (ORS) and zinc (Zn) or a placebo (N = 56) plus ORS and Zn for 5 days. LactoSpore supplementation along with ORS and Zn resulted in significantly faster recovery from diarrhea in children.
The frequency of diarrhea was lower in children supplemented with the probiotic, and the perceived efficacy score and dehydration status improved significantly. No adverse effects were reported in the children during the study. This randomised controlled study shows that LactoSpore with standard therapy was better than the standard treatment alone in managing acute diarrhea in children.
“All age groups need beneficial bacteria in their gut, and kids especially, so it’s important to add to the range of clinical research for common childhood conditions,” said Shaheen Majeed, Sabinsa Global CEO and managing director. “This clinical study proves improvement in efficacy by the inclusion of LactoSpore with the standard treatment of care of oral hydration solution and zinc."
The study can be accessed here: https://doi.org/10.3389/fped.2023.1338126.
Electa on show at ACHEMA 2024
CLR commissions new photovoltaic system
With the integration into the Berlin power grid, the commissioning of CLR’s third and final major photovoltaic system is now complete. Thanks to the energy generated from the three systems on the company’s production and administration buildings, CLR will be able to produce approximately 30% to 40% of its electrical energy consumption on average, and up to 50% on peak days. Any excess energy generated, which is unused, is fed into the Berlin power grid, contributing to sustainable energy supply in the region. The energy CLR feeds into the grid each year is equivalent to the annual consumption of 151 households, a school or 5.3 million LED streetlights.
CLR has set itself an ambitious science-based emission reduction target within the framework of the Science-Based Targets initiative (SBTi). The company has committed to reducing by 23% its absolute Scope 1 and Scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 compared to the base year 2021 and to measuring and reducing its Scope 3 emissions.
The commissioning of the new photovoltaic system marks a milestone in CLR’s efforts to reduce its environmental impact while contributing to the fight against climate change. This progress reflects CLR’s commitments outlined in its Acting Together programme.
New E45 face range prioritises sensitive skin
The iconic E45 skincare brand has introduced a stellar line-up of face care products for dry, sensitive and eczemaprone skin. The range includes the E45 Face Foaming Cleanser; E45 Daily Protect Moisturiser with SPF 30, UVA and UVB filters, as well as three emollient ingredients; E45 Face Night Cream to promote skin recovery and restore the barrier overnight; E45 Hydrating Face Serum, which gives skin an instant 48-hour hydration boost; and E45 Lips & Dry Spots Balm, which is specifically formulated for chapped, cracked
What’s on in 2024
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There have been significant additions to the prohibited and restricted lists included in the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium. Nadia Rashid, technical and regulatory manager at CTFA, delves into these developments.
The European Union (EU) regulation EC 1223/2009 serves as the framework upon which the South African cosmetic industry bases its regulations. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) plays a central role in the selfregulated environment and is home to the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium.
The Compendium is updated every six months and includes vital information for cosmetic manufacturers in the form of topic expansion in sections and substance lists presented as Annexures. The lists include prohibited substances, restricted substances and substances allowed for use as preservatives, colours and UV filters.
Substance information found in the lists are concluded and placed only after significant scientific research has been done on them by a separate scientific body in EU.
NEW VITAMIN A RESTRICTION
There have been significant additions to the Annexes this year, most specifically, the prohibited and restricted lists.
Nine new entries have been included on the prohibited list, which includes
gold, silver, copper and platinum nano compounds.
The restricted list now features entries which will have a huge impact on the industry – these include 56 additional declarable allergens, skin brightening substances such as alphaarbutin and kojic acid and another widely used substance, vitamin A.
The newly restricted substances, deadlines of which are yet to come into
" The restricted list now features entries which will have a huge impact on the industry "
effect, have varying degrees of impact on a manufacturer. While the large number of additional allergens have always been present, the difference now is to declare them on the ingredient (INCI) list on packaging artwork. Unless the manufacturer changes the formulation to reduce or exclude more allergens, the impact would only be a label update. What’s interesting
about these changes is that some substances are featured in groups, such as rose, bitter orange and lemongrass.
Substances like kojic acid and alpha arbutin, if featured in a formulation at levels outside of the restriction, would require a complete reformulation and followed by the process of stability testing, challenge testing, a safety assessment and most likely, a label update.
The restriction now placed on vitamin A compounds is slightly different. Not only are there limits set on the level of retinol equivalent, but additional wording is also required on the label.
CLAIMS AND THEIR REQUIREMENTS
The cosmetic label features a vast amount of information on the product, from metrology related symbols and numbers to the INCI list, expiry information, responsible person declaration, pictures and claims. Depending on the type of claim, the product may require more than just a new label.
In the regulatory space, a product should first be defined as a cosmetic
for further consideration. Claims and functions need to be in line with this definition and not cross the line into other regulatory pathways. They should be sincere, truthful and not misleading and allow consumers to make informed choices. Any claims, whether implicit or explicit, must be supported by adequate and appropriate substantiation to demonstrate the veracity of product efficacy and/or performance.
Claims can be considered under a few non-exhaustive broad categories, such as:
• performance
• ingredient
• sensory
• perception
• comparative
• environmental
• claims related to life-style choices
• hyperbolic/puffery claims. Each of these categories, in addition to the overarching advertising rules by which the South African cosmetic industry plays, have specific requirements.
Performance claims are arguably the most complicated in terms of requirements and risk. A product claiming to perform a certain cosmetic
Did you know?
New methods in SPF testing are soon to be available in South Africa and the hot topic of the skin microbiome and related claims are on the table.
function, such as visible wrinkle reduction, time-related moisture and anti-perspirant, fading of agespots and protection from the sun are examples that fall within this category. Proof of efficacy is required to make a claim that a product can perform a marked function. This proof is gained from clinical scientific substantiation. The field of testing is expanding in proportion to technological advances and information sharing which is great news for the cosmetics industry as it thrives on innovation and creativity.
" Ingredient claims are also subject to testing for their efficacy "
Ingredient claims, which involve the performance of specific ingredients in a formulation, are also subject to testing for their efficacy. Discoveries of ingredients continue to be a trend, especially in the natural space, along with potential efficacy claims.
Sensory, perception and comparative claims continue to be the go-to for many products with panellists and product trials easily achieved.
One needs to tread very carefully regarding environmental claims. Although a very popular trend in the past few years, they are not truly cosmetic and may be subject to regulation outside of the ambit of cosmetics. Coral/reef safe
claims appear to be a rising trend in this category.
Claims that are lifestyle-related have also risen in popularity. It is important to note that integrity with supporting documentation is vital for such claims. Halaal, vegan and cruelty free claims are subject to various evidential support across the globe and in some regions, progressing to mandatory status. Various organisations, which have garnered the trust of the consumer in the form of a logo and accompanying certification, are options when it comes to the use of such claims.
Hyperbolic claims on the complete opposite end of the risk spectrum are the easiest types of claims to make with the manufacturer using light-hearted exaggeration in wording.
CELEBRATING DIVERSITY WITHIN A LEGAL FRAMEWORK
South Africa is home to a wonderfully diverse population. Along with this diversity comes opportunities to explore and expand on claims in cosmetic products. Different hair and skin types and overall diversity in the cultures of our people create the potential for innovative twists on claims. However, there are limitations to what can be claimed in advertising a cosmetic. Hence it is vital that the relevant departments within a company work together when it comes to making claims. Collaboration will help ensure that not only are the claims cosmetic in nature but also in line with what is required as per regulatory practice.
After ensuring the product is in fact a cosmetic, one would need to ensure that the claim is categorised and then meet the requirements thereof. Once the product is released on the market, continuous surveillance is important – not only regarding the safety of the consumer and product integrity, but also of the regulatory environment, such that changes can be actioned timeously and efficiently.
Readers are encouraged to reach out to the CTFA for more information on the benefits of being a member of the association and for any questions regarding the Cosmetic Compendium. •
Introducing the Beauty Studio, a project development accelerator
IMCD’s Beauty Studio in South Africa is an inventive space that aims to accelerate product development time with ready-made base formulations of varying consistencies and sensory benefits. With a special focus on hair care, the Beauty Studio is set to inspire and assist brand owners in accelerating successful product development.
By Abby Vorster
IMCD Beauty & Personal Care has identified the need for a consultative approach in the personal care industry to accompany customers on their product development journey. The global business created the Beauty Studio in 2023, and recently extended the concept to South Africa, with the launch of a beauty studio at the IMCD head office in Johannesburg, in July.
WHAT’S ON OFFER AT THE BEAUTY STUDIO
• A unique place to receive oneon-one consultations and personalised formulation advice.
• Accelerated product development time.
• An increased opportunity of successful product development.
• Maximised customisation with active ingredients and functional sensorial enhancers.
• Access to the active ingredient digital selector tool.
Access to IMCD South Africa’s technical team for formulation experience and tips within a laboratory setting.
A SPACE FOR INSPIRATION AND INNOVATION
The South African Beauty Studio is aligned with the global concept, with the freedom to tailor formulations to ensure they are relevant to the local market.
For example, there is an immense need for innovation in hair care to address consumer demand for personalised solutions, particularly when it comes to textured hair. Popular formats include styling products, leave-on treatments, curl enhancers and edge-taming products – all of which can be developed and customised at the Beauty Studio.
" With the Beauty Studio you can save time, reduce risks and focus on innovation"
Samantha Pols, IMCD South Africa’s technical manager for home and personal care, says: “The Beauty Studio is open to customers of all sizes who are looking for inspiration to fast-track their projects. We invite them to spend a day
collaborating with our team of experts in Johannesburg.”
ONE-ON-ONE CONSULTATIONS
IMCD South Africa’s Beauty Studio is designed to inspire and assist cosmetic brands in accelerating the successful development and launch of custom-made, advanced beauty products, while dramatically increasing chances of success during the R&D phase.
With the Beauty Studio you can save time, reduce risks and focus on innovation. This unique offering welcomes brands and manufacturers for one-on-one consultations and a personalised formulation set-up. The process starts with the selection of a chassis formula in line with the customer’s specific texture and physical form requirements. This is then personalised even further with texture enhancers, optical effects and active ingredients to achieve the desired product efficacy and claims. The final prototype is made available to the customer within a short time frame.
Contact the local personal care team to book your slot at the Beauty Studio to supercharge your next development project. •
IMCD South Africa –
IMCD South Africa’s Beauty Studio is based at the company’s head office in Randburg, Gauteng
Reduce water use with instant rinse conditioner
Experience the innovation of Cargill Beauty’s lamellar phase-free and silicone-free conditioner, providing instant rinse for reduced water use. By Dr Emmanuel Everaert, global innovation, principal scientist, Cargill Beauty, France
Components such as silicones are often used for their conditioning properties and great aesthetics on the hair. However, most of these components have an impact on the environment, first because of their polluting manufacturing process, and secondly because they are not biodegradable and therefore contaminate water.1 For instance, when a silicone-based shampoo or conditioner is rinsed-off in the shower, it remains in the water and has the potential for accumulation in aquatic organisms.
"A very low water level is needed to rinse the novel instant-care hair conditioner"
Studies have also shown that cationic surfactants cause differentiated toxicity towards marine species (fish, crustaceans, algae, and bacteria) and most are not readily biodegradable. 2
REPLACING THE LAMELLAR PHASE
Hair conditioner performance is mostly driven by the lamellar phase structure (cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols), and silicones. As a result, the typical rinsing time in the shower is long. To overcome this challenge, Cargill Beauty proposes a novel hair conditioner structure that has instant rinse properties (in shower) as well as great wet and excellent dry conditioning feel performance. For this purpose, the lamellar phase is replaced with three ingredients:
1. Actigum™ CS 11 QD (INCI: Sclerotium Gum), used for its hair conditioning and high yield stabilisation performance.
2. StarDesign™ Power (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (and) Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate) is a clever blend of starches
with a great ability to stabilise emulsions and deliver pleasing sensorial benefits.
3. StarDesign™ Care (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate), a starch for additional texture build of the hair conditioner.
SIGNIFICANT REDUCTION IN WATER USE
A very low water level is needed to rinse the novel instant-care hair conditioner. Measurements in a controlled lab rinsing flow rate study on hair switches estimated an approximate 7x reduction in water usage. The exact amount of rinsing water that is saved will always depend on consumer shower flow characteristics with the opportunity to reduce water consumption by 7x when rinsing hair in the shower.
A reduction in hot water usage has also been shown to reduce one’s overall carbon footprint. In line with this, the manufacturing process of the instant-care hair conditioner uses a lower temperature (45°C to 50°C), which is a significant energy saving compared to current high temperature hair conditioner production processes.
REPLACING THE SILICONE PHASE
The dry conditioning performance is principally driven by the addition of silicones, which are neither sustainable nor biodegradable. Cargill Beauty’s selected emollient blends can match
the performance of silicones on dry hair with lower combing forces. Great hair alignment and curl definition have also been measured.
This new approach to hair conditioners allows for a novel structure that has instant adsorption characteristics on hair as well as great wet and excellent dry conditioning feel performance. For this purpose, the silicone(s) phase is replaced with two ingredients:
1. Sustainable cocoa butter (INCI: Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter) for a pleasing conditioning experience
2. Agri-Pure AP620 (INCI: Hydrogenated Coconut Oi) for its additional conditioning power on hair and perfect fibre alignment in dry hair.
The combination of these two emollients is an ideal alternative to silicones to deliver a pleasant dry feel and visually beautiful hair.
Contact Savannah Fine Chemicals, Cargill Beauty’s South African agent, for more information on the instant-care hair conditioner. •
REFERENCES:
1. Duis, K., Junker, T. & Coors, A. Environmental fate, and effects of water-soluble synthetic organic polymers used in cosmetic products. Environ Sci Eur 33, 21 (2021).
2. Kaczerewska O, et al. Environmental behaviour and ecotoxicity of cationic surfactants towards marine organisms. J Hazard Mater. (2020)
Cargill Beauty –www.cargill.com/personal-care/beauty Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za
our solution for instant rinse conditioners
Consumers are increasingly concerned about the impact of the products they use on the environment. At the same time they don’t want to compromise on performance and are looking for efficiency gains. Cargill experts have developed a new conditioner structure without lamellar phase that requires 7 times less water and time to rinse in the shower, while maintaining excellent conditioning properties . Curious to learn how this solution can elevate your next conditioner launch? Scan the QR code to see our video or contact our team at beauty@cargill.com.
www.cargillbeauty.com
Sustainable and mild hair care routines
As your sustainable specialties partner, Evonik offers products and solutions for mild and sustainable hair care routines. Dr Lisette Streefland discusses current challenges in the hair care category and suggests sustainable alternatives to consider.
Efforts are ongoing in the cosmetics industry to develop sustainable ingredients that have a low negative impact on the environment in terms of feed stock, deforestation, biodegradability, aquatic toxicity and carbon footprint, to name a few. Consumers are aware of these issues as they inform themselves through the internet and social media. At the same time, their concerns about wellbeing are growing and they are looking for safe and mild ingredients.
The number of products launched in the cosmetics market with health and environmental claims continues to grow.
THE CURRENT CHALLENGES
Undoubtedly, hair care is more challenging to formulate sustainably and naturally, compared to skincare, due to limitations in ingredient choices. Shampoos should clean and thus require surfactants, similarly conditioners contain cationic agents to
make hair easier to comb amongst other benefits.
Let’s have a look at the key ingredients for shampoos and conditioners and how they can be made more sustainable and milder.
The conventional and most frequently used ingredients for hair cleansing and conditioning are SLES/SLS (sodium lauryl/ laureth ether sulphate) and CTAC/BTAC (Cetyl/Behenyl Trimonium Chloride). Their cost to performance ratio is excellent. However, SLES/SLS is known to disturb the protective skin barrier, causing irritations, itchiness, erythema and other unpleasant skin conditions. BTAC and CTAC are harmful to the environment due to their high toxicity towards water organisms when degraded. So, what alternatives are available to formulators?
ALTERNATIVES FOR TODAY’S CHALLENGES
Evonik is a pioneer in developing sustainable alternatives in surfactants and conditioning agents. In May, Evonik opened the first factory globally that can produce rhamnolipids on an industrial scale. These biosurfactants are made using adapted microorganisms that consume renewable feedstock (sugar from corn), thereby producing rhamnolipids in a low CO ₂footprint fermentation process.
The first Rhamnolipid that Evonik launched was RHEANCE® One (INCI: Glycolipids), which is a high performance biosurfactant in terms of cleansing efficiency. It is also outstandingly mild, fully biodegradable and has extremely
low aquatic toxicity. RHEANCE® One is a multi-functional biosurfactant, because it also solubilises essential oils and fragrances and, depending on the pH of the formulation, it can either support foam building or the viscosity of the formulation. It can be processed cold, which supports its sustainable profile, and it is compatible with amphoteric and anionic surfactants. By replacing part of the conventional surfactants, the mildness and naturality of a formulation can be increased and the CO ₂ -footprint reduced.
As an alternative to the conditioning agents CTAC and BTAC, Evonik introduced the ester quat technology. These cationic esters are safer to produce, have a higher active matter and a much lower aquatic toxicity. There are also palm oil-free variants available. The conditioning performance of Evonik’s newest cationic ester products is comparable to or better than BTAC, so there is no compromise on conditioning efficiency.
The latest variant launched in this range is VARISOFT® EQ 90 (INCI: Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate). While based on non-palm renewable feedstock, and having 100% active matter, the conditioning performance is as good as BTAC, which is supported by several studies such as combing force measurements, sensory measurements on hair swatches and salon tests by professional hairdressers carried out by an independent institute.
VARISOFT® EQ 90 is a viscous liquid and can be used in a variety of applications, such as rinse-off and leave-
" The conditioning performance of Evonik’s newest cationic ester products is comparable to or better than BTAC"
on conditioners, conditioning shampoos, conditioning sprays and solid formats. It can be processed cold and is suitable for use in formulations based on sulfate-free surfactants. Clear solutions are possible, for example in the formulation shown in table 1. Another benefit of VARISOFT® EQ 90 is that it improves skin smoothness and skin
feel, as was demonstrated in a sensory hand wash test.
MORE SUSTAINABLE LAUNCHES
Evonik is innovating, both extensively and continuously, in sustainable ingredients for the cosmetics industry.
The ECOHANCE® programme was launched last year using bio-mass-based alternatives, production residues and side streams for the development of highperforming cosmetic ingredients of a new dimension.
ECOHANCE® Remo XP (INCI: Sorbityl/Xylityl Pelargonate) is one of the first products launched in this range. It is a multifunctional thickener for surfactant systems based on waste from the paper industry and produced in a low carbon footprint enzymatic process.
Keep an eye out for new, sustainable launches by Evonik and for any questions, please reach out by sending an email to Jacques.strydom@evonik.com . •
Evonik South Africa –https://personal-care.evonik.com/en
Table 1: Clear conditioning hair and body shampoo
Hybrid material enhances natural oil deposition on hair
Demand is growing for personal care products with higher natural and naturally derived ingredient content. Formulators must often find a balance between using higher amounts of environmentally responsible ingredients while maintaining important performance parameters.
In response to this challenge, Applechem, a Solabia Group company, developed OleoFlex™ as an innovative delivery system to increase the use of natural oils in formulation design. The patented hybrid material structures the oils by creating a thermally reversible microsponge polymer network that enmeshes the oil molecules, boosting their functionality and creating a soft, cushioned viscoelastic gel.
This flexible, anhydrous structuring material has many unique applications in personal care formulations. There are two options in the OleoFlex product range – the Elastomer Gel (EG) series, and the Flowing Gel (FG) series.
The EG 200 series structures oils by creating a threedimensional micro-sponge polymer network. This results in a thermal-reversible, viscoelastic gel texture. It is generally used in skincare and stick applications, which require a more flexible substantiation of natural oils along with a more soft and cushioned sensory profile.
former and conditioning enhancer for natural oils. It can also be used with the EG series to modify the flow and elasticity of the polymeric structure. The FG series has a thickened, honey-like consistency.
HAIR REPAIR AND TREATMENT BENEFITS
Applechem has investigated the benefits of using OleoFlex™ FG-100 in hair treatment products, specifically for cuticle repair due to heat damage, chemical damage from harsh treatment procedures, excessive washing, and combing.
Primarily used in hair care and lip care formulations, the FG series acts as a film
A study was conducted to demonstrate how OleoFlex™ FG100 can boost the film forming and rinse-off resistance of natural oils by substantiating oil deposition on hair follicles. The more effective the treatment, the better it performed at reducing the number of damaged, raised hair cuticles.
To validate the hair repair benefits, the Applechem team correlated the reparative benefit of OleoFlex FG-100™ with two specific observations:
• Fewer lifted or damaged cuticles, as indicated by the intensity of iridescent light spots.
• The visual appearance of the hair tress.
"OleoFlex™ FG-100 has a strong, functional effect in extending the benefits of natural oils in hair care protection and repair"
In this comparison, damaged hair tresses were treated with a hair serum formulation. A natural oil-based serum was created as the control, while the other serum included an FG100/EG-200 combination as a replacement. Lastly, a silicone-based serum (competitor A) was created featuring a leading hair repair ingredient on the market. The results of the comparison study are shown in table 1.
COMPARISON RESULTS AND OBSERVATIONS
The most restorative of the hair serums were the FG-100 + EG-200 combination. The FG-100 serum and competitor A’s serum had relatively equal performance, while hair treated with the control serum remained the most damaged.
OleoFlex™ FG-100 has a strong, functional effect in extending the benefits of natural oils in hair care protection and repair, as there is a demonstrable difference between the control samples and the ones treated with the OleoFlex system.
The OleoFlex system is also highly comparable in performance to silicone-based repair systems, and in some ways even exceeds their performance, which is an exciting development for hair care formulations that emphasise natural oil components.
Contact Johrinda Nel at Vantage South Africa for more information on the OleoFlex system. •
Table 1: Treated hair care comparison results
The FG series has a thickened, honey-like consistency
Natural and effective formulations for textured hair
Despite an estimated 60% to 70% of the world’s population having some form of textured hair, this segment is still underrepresented and misunderstood.1 To address this, dsmfirmenich has collaborated with a specialist textured hair consultant and consumers to develop solutions for this gap in the market.
Consumer studies from 2022 reveal that 79% of women in Brazil, 68% in the USA, and 53% in France describe their natural hair as wavy, curly, or coiled. 2 Textured hair, classified as curly (Type 3) or coily (Type 4) under the Walker Hair Typing System, faces unique issues. Curly and coily hair strands are more entangled, requiring greater combing force and being more prone to breakage. These hair types can also experience oily scalps and dry, dull hair.
A global survey of 1 500 women found that typical hair care routines for textured hair can take up to three hours and involve multiple products and stages.3 These complex routines mean consumers often need to plan wash days and wash their hair less frequently. Many feel the available product choices are limited or inadequate, making them feel ignored by beauty brands. 4 They also often need to travel further and spend more to find suitable products.
SOLUTIONS CENTRED ON CONSUMERS’ NEEDS
Studies show that textured hair consumers seek natural products with clean formulations and are open to skincare-inspired ingredients. 5 After listening closely to participants in its global survey, dsm-firmenich, in collaboration with a specialist textured hair consultant, developed the ULocks line. This range of hair care formulations combines vitamins, natural origin actives and a pleasing fragrance to deliver deep care and simplify hair care routines.
" The formulations aim to impact beyond hair care , respecting the choices of global consumers with textured hair"
The ULocks line is based on respect, offering an alternative that meets consumer expectations for pleasurable, user-friendly, and natural routines. The formulations aim to impact beyond hair care, respecting the choices of global consumers with textured hair.
COMBINED WITH LOCKSCENT TECHNOLOGY
ULocks features several formulations: four products for a wash day routine, two for a refreshing routine, and one common to both. Utilising vitamins, natural origin actives, and LockScent™ technology, this line simplifies textured hair care regimes. The products deliver performance, long-lasting fragrance, and continuous freshness.
The wash day formulations include a cleansing conditioner to remove impurities without stripping hair fiber; a hydration mousse to replenish moisture; a luminous wax for deep conditioning, shine, and curl definition; and a scalp serum to improve hair density, scalp hydration, reduce sebum, and soothe skin.
The refreshing routine includes a hydration mousse for extra moisture and an oily gel to condition curls, refresh their definition, and reduce breakage and split ends. The formulations feature a highly renewable and biodegradable fragrance and some of dsm-firmenich's most exemplary ingredients. For example, the scalp serum contains Saccharide Isomerate, Epilobium fleischeri Flower/ Leaf/Stem Extract, Leontopodium alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, and Vitamin B12 Cyanocobalamin, all known for their sustainability and performance.
The ULocks luminous wax formulation includes 100% natural origin Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose) seed extract and a unique blend of upcycled spent grain wax, cold-processed argan oil, and shea butter to reduce hair breakage
" The signature fragrance, developed with LockScent™ technology, bonds with hair keratin"
and split ends. The signature fragrance, developed with LockScent™ technology, bonds with hair keratin. Sensory tests show that fragrance intensity remains high up to seven days after application. 6
TESTED AND APPROVED BY CONSUMERS
To test the formulations authentically, dsm-firmenich worked with an independent group of French consumers aged 26 to 35 with Type 4 coily hair. They used the formulations at home for one month under everyday conditions and provided feedback via a questionnaire.7
According to 89% of consumers, the overall wash day routine kept their hair and scalp clean for four to five days. About 70% found it easier to detangle
their hair and noted a noticeable feeling of hydration for four to five days. The fragrance was appreciated by 72%, with a long-lasting scent that kept them feeling fresh until the next wash. Notably, 56% completed the entire wash day routine in under an hour.
Feedback on the luminous wax and scalp serum was also positive. For the luminous wax, 95% commented on ease of application and nourishing feel without stickiness; over 85% noticed silky and shiny hair; and 75% reported good curl hold. For the scalp serum, 84% highlighted good scalp hydration properties.
The refreshing routine was well received, with 61% of consumers noticing hair hydration two to three days after application and silky hair immediately after use. Additionally, 67% agreed that the products provided a lasting fragrance and refreshed curls between shampoos.
Contact Chempure, a local agent of dsmfirmenich, for more information about the ULocks line. •
2 Source: Kantar Profiles/Mintel, February 2022, January 2022, December 2022.
3 dsm-firmenich 2023 – Global survey 3 countries [USA, France, Brazil] - 1500 women
4 Source: Lightspeed/Mintel Base: UK: 1,949 internet users aged 16+
5 Kantar Profiles/Mintel, September 2022 / US
6 Interactions with hair proteins, by polar interaction (e.g. hydrogen bonding) or dispersion forces (e.g. van der Waals interactions)
7 External Consumer survey – 29 users of textured hair products with Type 4 hair (28 % with 4A hair type, 41 % 4B, and 31 % 4C) – average age between 26-35 years old – 1 month usage test – France – 2023
Chempure – https://chempure.co.za/
The science of ethnic hair
While hair is hair, it differs in texture, density and growth patterns across ethnicities. Robyn Brown of Botanichem talks to P&C Review about the importance of understanding the biology and physiology of ethnic hair when launching products aimed specifically at this market.
The science of ethnic hair largely determines which ingredients are suitable for this hair type. The arrangement of keratin fibres in hair dictates its texture. Straight hair has a smooth, cylindrical cortex, while curly and coily hair exhibits an oval or flattened cortex with inherent bends and kinks. This intricate structure impacts three key aspects of ethnic hair: moisture retention; porosity and strength.
RECOMMENDED PRODUCT LINE UP FOR A GOOD RANGE
A specific hair care regimen is crucial to address the unique needs of ethnic hair. Robyn recommends the following products for an ethnic hair care range:
• Co-wash uses a gentle conditioner as a primary cleanser and provides mild cleansing while retaining moisture. Co-washes include humectants such as D panthenol, which absorb water and lock in moisture, helping to reduce dryness.
• A sulphate-free shampoo is necessary to remove product build-up and environmental debris. Shampoos for ethnic hair should include hydrating ingredients and must have a balanced pH level.
for ethnic hair needs to be
richer and more concentrated than a regular conditioner. The product should penetrate the hair shaft, replenishing moisture and promoting elasticity. The formulation should include highly nourishing ingredients like coconut oil, which is rich in fatty acids, and vitamin E to help strengthen hair and prevent breakage.
"A specific hair care regimen is crucial to address the unique needs of ethnic hair"
• Leave-in detangler, formulated with emollients and humectants, coats the hair shaft, reducing friction and breakage during combing. To avoid a dehydrating formulation, consider using Sappi’s Valida in the formulation. Valida has the ability to stabilise formulations without thickening. It is easily sprayable and has moisturising properties.
• Edge tamer, formulated with holding polymers and moisturisers, helps define and smooth edges while minimising breakage. Ingredients rich in polyunsaturated fatty
acids and Ethomega, a tocopherol rich oil from Cobiosa, not only help to moisturise but also prevent split hairs and hair breakage.
• Hair loss serum is an essential treatment in an ethnic hair care range. There has been a flood of actives on the market which claim to stimulate hair growth and whilst many of them do work, it is worthwhile to consider ingredients with a proven track record.
Hairdian AP from JAKA Biotech is a natural plant material developed for hair loss. This active focuses on the regulation of hair follicle cycle and is said to effectively reduce further hair loss by keeping the scalp and follicles healthy, which may help lead to new hair growth.
“Formulating for ethnic hair is not a simple process,” says Robyn. “Using the right actives and ingredients combined with a sound understanding of the needs of ethnic hair can lead to highly effective products that meet market demands.”
Botanichem has developed a range of formulations for ethnic hair care products and is also a supplier of actives and ingredients for this category. •
botanichem.co.za
Discover the benefits of polyquaternium 22 in hair care
Hair care products like shampoo and conditioner are designed to keep hair looking healthy and feeling good. They are formulated with polyquaternium as a key ingredient to provide care and conditioning benefits.
olyquaternium 22 is attracted to hair strands because it is a cationic conditioning polymer. Heat styling, colour and straightening treatments, UV exposure and daily grooming can damage hair causing the scales of the cuticle to lift, exposing the cortex found at the centre of the hair structure.
This is where cationic polymers make a difference. The nitrogen in these polymers attaches to the hair strand, while long carbon chains are directed toward the hair’s cuticle. This has a hydrophobic effect that binds the polyquaternium to the hair proteins and forms a protective film around the hair shaft. The film helps to prevent
lifting of the cuticle scales, giving hair a smooth, silky feel.
INTRODUCING CHEM BCA42PF
If you’re looking for a polyquaternium conditioning polymer in smaller pack sizes, Chempack Industries has introduced CHEM BCA42PF (Polyquaternium 22). This polyquat is compatible with cationic, non-ionic, anionic
" CHEM BCA42PF is ideal for use in shampoos, conditioners and styling products "
and amphoteric surfactants and is mainly used in hair care formulations due to its high cationicity.
It provides stable, rich and dense foam, and imparts conditioning properties in products with an extreme range of pH. It does not have any effect on hair colour, imparts a soft and silky feeling on hair, and offers excellent dry compatibility and snag-free wet combability.
CHEM BCA42PF is ideal for use in shampoos, conditioners and styling products. •
Chempack Industries – www.cpack.co.za
Innovative organic salts for parenteral use
Macco Organiques is pioneering the production of organic salts primarily for parenteral use. These new production lines include glycerophosphates, citrates, gluconates, and lactates, all of which are manufactured under cGMP certification and are registered with the European and US authorities.
Since its establishment in 1976, Macco Organiques – a global leader in the production of inorganic mineral salts – has experienced steady growth, evolving into a company equipped with state-of-the-art production facilities.
Mineral salts from Macco Organiques are essential in various applications including IV and dialysis solutions, pharmaceuticals, biotechnology, infant formulas, nutritional supplements, veterinary preparations, mineralised and bottled water, and personal care products.
The company’s commitment to quality is reflected in the numerous certifications held by its production facility. These include GMP ICHQ7, FSSC 22000, Halal, and Kosher certifications. Furthermore, Macco holds CoS (CEP) and DMF registrations, underscoring its dedication to meeting the highest standards of quality and compliance.
Macco is represented in South Africa by Brenntag.
“We are proud to be associated with Macco Organiques,” says Kim Buckerfield, Macco product manager for Brenntag SA. “Their products, including the new line of organic salts, are of the finest quality and present our clients with the opportunity to use only the best ingredients in their formulations.”
"Macco Organiques offers customised grinding, milling and blending services for its mineral salts"
milling and blending services for its mineral salts. This flexibility ensures that each client receives raw materials tailored to their unique specifications.
Macco Organiques also provides a range of packaging solutions to meet diverse customer needs. Options include low-volume sacks, paper or plastic bags, carton boxes, as well as larger containers such as carton or plastic drums and supersacks. This versatility in packaging helps accommodate various logistical and storage requirements.
CUSTOM SOLUTIONS FOR SPECIFIC NEEDS
Understanding the specific requirements of customers for grain size, free-flowing properties, and homogeneity, Macco Organiques offers customised grinding,
CORE PRODUCTS FROM MARKET LEADER
The extensive product portfolio of Macco Organiques includes a variety of inorganic mineral salts and organic salts.
The range of inorganic mineral salt APIs includes, yet is not limited to, calcium chloride
The organic salts for parenteral use include sodium glycerophosphate and sodium lactate. Other glycerophosphates, citrates, lactates and gluconates are expected to be launched during 2024 and 2025.
Macco Organiques continues to innovate and expand its capabilities, maintaining its leadership in the production of inorganic and organic mineral salts. With a commitment to quality, flexibility and customer satisfaction, the company is well-positioned to meet the evolving needs of its global clientele.
For more information on the basket of products from Macco Organiques, please send an email to kim.buckerfield@brenntag.com. •
Brenntag SA –www.brenntag.com/en-za/
In the pharmaceutical industry trust and expertise are paramount, which is why we are committed to excellence and efficiency. We offer a full portfolio of products for innovative solutions, customised repacking and refilling as well as as storage and distribution services under GMP conditions.
Radar level measurement on the wavelength of innovation
Did you know?
With VEGAPULS 6X, you get a sensor that can handle any application, no matter if the medium to be measured is liquid, solid, hot, cold, hazardous or corrosive. The radar level sensor VEGAPULS 6X now combines the best of the previous 80 GHz, 26 GHz and 6 GHz sensors; VEGAPULS 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68; and VEGAPULS 69 in one device.
Pharmaceutical manufacturing demands extreme precision and reliability, especially in measurement. Accurate measurement is vital at every stage from raw material storage and product formulation to encapsulation and packaging. This ensures product safety, batch consistency, and quality.
he VEGAPULS 6X radar sensor sets new standards for level measurement in the pharmaceutical and life sciences industries with its unprecedented accuracy and versatility. Its non-contact design makes it ideal for hygienic applications, eliminating the risk of contamination that traditional ultrasonic sensors face due to frequent cleaning and sterilisation requirements.
With a narrow measuring beam, the VEGAPULS 6X ensures reliable results in diverse applications, offering a cost-effective, easy-to-install continuous measurement solution. It performs well under high temperatures and pressures, making it suitable for demanding pharmaceutical processes. Unlike traditional systems that rely on costly pointlevel detectors and continuous measurement sensors, the VEGAPULS 6X reduces installation expenses and simplifies
UNMATCHED PRECISION AND RELIABILITY
Precise calibration is essential for batch traceability and process validation. The VEGAPULS 6X streamlines this process, providing reliable level and inventory measurements in storage tanks. Its precision and ease of use are evident in chemical storage tank measurements, where fiscal calibration involves thermal compensation and pressure monitoring. It can be calibrated with specialist tank charts for accurate measurement of liquid ingredients and products.
Even in small vessels, the VEGAPULS 6X excels with high accuracy and reduced near-range interference. Its versatile antenna systems and advanced software algorithms suppress interference from antenna build-up and tank structures, ensuring accurate tracking of liquid levels. The shorter 80 GHz wavelength minimises signal reflection issues, allowing for precise measurements even near the bottom of the vessel.
The VEGAPULS 6X represents a significant advancement in radar-level measurement technology, offering unmatched precision and reliability across various industries. The innovative design and advanced capabilities make it an essential tool for modern-level measurement needs. •
A journey of collaboration and growth
In honour of Women's Month this August, the Laser Beautique is shining a spotlight on the incredible women at the helm of its franchise expansion. This is a story about women uplifting women, with the unwavering support of two exceptional men, showcasing the power of collaboration in driving growth and innovation.
At the heart of this inspiring journey is Tzvia Hermann, co-founder of the Laser Beautique. Tzvia leads the marketing department with her expertise in marketing, design, beauty and customer experience, which has been honed over 25 years. Her creative leadership and dedication to fostering client loyalty are pivotal to the brand's expanding footprint.
Working closely with Tzvia is Rivki Joffe, the newly appointed head of design. Together they are crafting a brand identity that resonates with clients and sets new standards in beauty and skincare. Their partnership exemplifies how women can achieve great things by supporting and uplifting one another.
Joining the dynamic team is Cecilia Grobler, head of franchising. Since January 2024, Cecilia has brought her extensive experience from Dermalogica SA and UK to the Laser Beautique. Her strategic planning and management skills are driving the expansion of the franchise, proving that women can lead with strength and grace.
Kirsten Hay, head of operations, ensures that the business runs smoothly and efficiently. Her commitment to operational excellence and profitability highlights the essential role women play in sustaining successful enterprises. Kirsten's work ensures that every aspect of the business meets the highest standards.
As head of training, Niquelene Knoetze brings international experience and expertise in human resources, making
her a vital part of the team. Niquelene’s dedication to education and training helps create a culture of continuous improvement and excellence.
BECOMING AN INDUSTRY BENCHMARK
Each branch of the Laser Beautique is led by a culture-driven branch leader who exemplifies leadership. These leaders empower their therapists, who in turn provide exceptional service to clients. Tzvia's dream is to see the Laser Beautique become a household name by mentoring and uplifting women, enabling them to grow from therapists to managers and eventually franchise owners.
"This Women's Month, the company reaffirms its commitment to championing women in business"
Behind these powerful women are two strong men whose support and guidance are indispensable. Neil Hermann, co-owner and head of the finance department, brings his entrepreneurial expertise to the table. His wisdom and financial acumen are crucial in scaling the business. Neil's
support underscores the importance of men and women working together to achieve success.
Serial entrepreneur Ian Fuhr, who is renowned for founding Sorbet, also mentors the team. His high expectations and guidance are instrumental in steering the Laser Beautique toward remarkable achievements. Ian's involvement highlights how men can play a crucial role in empowering women and fostering their success.
WOMEN WHO LEAD AND UPLIFT OTHERS
As the Laser Beautique embarks on its transformative journey of franchise expansion, it celebrates the contributions and leadership of its remarkable female team members. This Women's Month, the company reaffirms its commitment to championing women in business, showcasing the vital roles women play in driving innovation, growth, and excellence in the beauty and skincare industry.
United by a common vision and driven by a spirit of collaboration, the Laser Beautique team is transforming the business into a beacon of female empowerment and business excellence. •
The Laser Beautique –https://thelaserbeautique.co.za/
Each branch of the Laser Beautique is led by a culture-driven branch leader who exemplifies leadership
The Laser Beautique’s therapists are empowered to provide exceptional service to clients
Tzvia Hermann, co-founder of the Laser Beautique
Form and function in minimalist packaging
As buyers look for functional yet appealing packaging designs, brands must consider trends at both ends of the design spectrum. Naomi Stewart , marketing manager of Easyfairs, explores minimalism as a key trend in beauty packaging.
You've seen them, and you buy them, and you may even love them: brands that strip away all unnecessary packaging graphics and messaging in service of an unvarnished, anti-branding, ingredients-first message. To some, it even delivers simplicity and clarity for consumers while communicating a distinct personality and credible, relatable purpose. Then there are those that point to the unwelcome scourge of minimalism threatening consumer brands.
Did you know?
London Packaging Week is a dynamic event that drives packaging innovation, business, and connections at the heart of the UK’s luxury, cosmetics, premium drinks, and consumer products markets. Click on the link to register for the event: https://tinyurl.com/mvccbc36.
But there's one thing we can all agree on – minimalism is a difficult balance to find in design.
NOT MUCH TO IT
Minimalist packaging design has taken the industry by storm, dominating retail segments like luxury products, cosmetics, and fashion. One of the best things about minimalist packaging is that it's versatile, easily customisable, and can be used in virtually any industry.
Simple, clean, and less noisy than other products within a respective category, minimalism can be characterised as a paredback, polished aesthetic. Authentic and pure. No bells and whistles.
Minimalism involves simplifying elements and stripping back the elements that are left. Shapes, forms, illustrations, colours, and types that feel unnecessary or useless are omitted. Only the bare minimum is retained to convey the brand message.
Luxury minimalism strips back to a minimum, allowing us to concentrate on what is necessary. It is based on the functionality and aesthetic of objects, seeking to enhance them, often by using sought-after materials and innovative technology.
One of the ways luxury minimalism can enhance wellbeing is by reconnecting consumers with the natural world. We all have neurological preferences for natural materials and colours, representing safety and sustenance.
IN THE BLINK OF AN EYE
Modern brands have around a split second to make an impression before consumers' attention is called elsewhere. This means it’s often smarter to choose minimalism because a simpler design requires less brain processing to process it fully.
There is no advantage to overwhelming consumers with too many design elements
and creating a cluster in your packaging design. Rather, choosing minimalist designs can have many benefits, such as:
• For beginners, it portrays your brand as transparent and honest with consumers
• It makes your products appear organised and refined
• It highlights the top benefits that make your products distinct, and the ultimate best buy on the shelf.
Minimalism makes you feel happy with less. It is the aesthetic of not including more information than necessary in product design. It often contains small letters, no iconography other than a company logo, and only a single colour.
"
Minimalist packaging design is about how clever you can be"
Your consumer can quickly grasp the onus of your business when you use minimal packaging, prioritise your messaging, and move on promptly to making a purchase decision.
SIMPLICITY CAN BE POWERFUL
Minimalism increasingly involves deftly combining the environmental impact of the package and the usability and beauty of your package in a clever, reusable, unique design. This simplicity aligns with the product's ingredients or a brand’s green credentials, using earthy tones and eco-friendly materials to communicate its values.
A key consideration is how well minimalism can compete as an artistic style in food packaging. After all, stripping one element too far can disrupt what is supposed to be an emotional packaging experience.
Your first risk is not standing out on shelf. If your packaging is too simple and stripped back, there’s the chance that it may not stand out against your bolder competitors. If you want to position your brand as ‘premium’ but competitively priced, your consumer may be put off by thinking it is far more expensive than it is at first glance.
Poorly thought-out minimalism can simultaneously slip into bland branding. Our job is to ensure that we understand consumer shifts and to tap into those shifts through impactful and effective design, which has longevity and isn't just a fleeting trend.
When considering marketing for minimalism and a scrupulous audience, it's important to emphasise to the consumer that they've made the best choice by picking your brand. That's
where an insatiable appetite for new insight can set you apart.
In this space, nothing comes close to London Packaging Week, which takes place on 11 and 12 September at ExCeL London. The trade show’s credentials are second to none in breaking down what the next 12 months and beyond have in store for the world of packaging design, branding, and material innovation.
SAYING MORE WITH LESS
If your company has a unique brand colour or shade that makes people think of you, incorporate it. Packaging doesn't have to be white or neutral.
A box with nothing but your logo is a great way to draw attention to your brand. With nothing else in the way, your consumers are more likely to remember your logo and have a greater brand recall.
Smooth, glossy packages have been the industry standard, but minimalist packaging is literally thinking outside the box. Many minimalist designs incorporate multiple layers, raised edges, dabbled paper materials, and even mimic the feeling of natural materials like wood or grass.
A minimalist design can be a great choice for brands looking to convey a sleek and modern image, often associated with high-end products that exude sophistication and luxury. Adding sleek lines to your design is still a tried-andtested way to catch the eyes of your customers. They show that you've put the time and effort into designing something sleek, sophisticated, and modern for your products. These are great for luxury products like cosmetics and fashion.
Minimalist packaging design is about how clever you can be. Try out different tweaks, new packaging shapes, and unconventional typefaces. Think of ways to make the package less distracting or less heavy.
Through minimalist design, it is possible to successfully cultivate a connection between products and a feeling of modernity and innovation. Focusing on specific information and fewer graphic elements creates a clean, sophisticated image that appeals to consumers who value simplicity and elegance.
By being as selective with your marketing and branding as audiences are today with their purchasing, you'll establish a loyal customer base that’s engaged, happy to purchase from you repeatedly and will spontaneously recommend your brand to like-minded consumers. •
Coschem Supplier Day expands to KZN and Cape Town
Since hosting the inaugural Coschem Supplier Day in May 2017, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists has grown this sought-after industry event. This year marked a significant milestone for Coschem with supplier days hosted for the first time in Cape Town and KwaZulu-Natal.
Paving the way for sector growth
On 12 June, the cosmetic industry in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) buzzed with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosting its inaugural KZN Supplier Day at the Westville Country Club, in Durban.
The event attracted over 100 attendees who were eager to explore the latest trends and forge new partnerships with suppliers in the region.
There were 22 leading suppliers that took part in the event to showcase their innovative products and services. Together they transformed the venue into a hub for gathering and sharing industry knowledge.
Attendees, from formulators to brand owners and manufacturers, benefitted from one-on-one interactions, gaining valuable insights into the evolving cosmetic landscape. This exchange of ideas fostered a collaborative environment, paving the way for potential partnerships and future growth within the KZN cosmetic sector. The inaugural KZN Supplier Day proved to be a resounding success, solidifying its place as a key event in the region.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE KZN SUPPLIER DAY
Uplifting a resilient industry
On a stormy Capetonian Wednesday, 10 July, the cosmetic industry gathered at the welcoming Howard terraces of Carst & Walker. Despite the weather, the atmosphere inside was warm and bustling, as industry suppliers and buyers converged under the banner of Coschem for a day of collaboration and discovery.
Hosted for the first time in Cape Town, the supplier day served as a pivotal moment for the cosmetic industry, offering a platform to showcase the latest innovations and connect with the heartbeat of consumer trends. In an era where beauty consumers are increasingly discerning, demanding products that not only perform but also align with their values, the event highlighted how suppliers are rising to the challenge. Today's beauty landscape is shaped by consumers who wield information effortlessly, influencing market dynamics with every click and swipe. This reality drives ingredient suppliers to innovate across multiple fronts, from
developing new actives and exploring biological pathways to addressing modern skincare concerns while refining techniques in texture production. Suppliers also need to ensure product safety with advanced preservatives while captivating consumers with vibrant colourants and sensory-rich oils.
The Cape Town Supplier Day welcomed 70 visitors and hosted 30 exhibitors, which showcased their latest offerings, from groundbreaking formulations to sustainable packaging solutions, reflecting a commitment to pushing the industry forward.
The success of the event underscores the resilience of Cape Town’s cosmetic sector in a challenging climate. Veterans and newcomers alike reflected on the day's achievements with anticipation already building for next year's event. This is a testament to the industry's unity in innovation and dedication to meeting the evolving needs of beauty consumers in South Africa.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE CAPE TOWN SUPPLIER DAY
SAPICS 2024 tackles logistics challenges and sustainability
South Africa’s ports and logistics crises, life-threatening drug shortages, and earth-saving sustainability initiatives were unpacked at the recent SAPICS Conference.
The 46th annual SAPICS Conference saw more than 750 supply chain managers from 30 countries across Africa and around the world gather in Cape Town from 9 to 12 June, to explore challenges and opportunities in the sector.
According to SAPICS, the Professional Body for Supply Chain Management, which has hosted the conference since 1975, supply chain management gained prominence during the pandemic. It is an increasingly important and in-demand profession, as ongoing volatility fueled by geopolitical conflicts, climate crises and economic instability impacts global supply chains. This year, SAPICS presented the conference in association with the Southern African Association of Freight Forwarders.
LOGISTICS CRISES REFORM
The conference theme, ‘Supply Chain Metamorphosis’, reflected the changes in today’s dynamic supply chain landscape. The programme featured 128 African and international experts and thought leaders who shared their insights and expertise with attendees.
"Circular supply chains are becoming more critical than ever"
In a compelling update on the work of the National Logistics Crisis Committee (NLCC), Ian Bird, senior executive responsible for the transport and logistics focal area at Business for South Africa (B4SA), reported on the operational progress of the NLCC. Bird said the number of trains cancelled on the North Corridor due to security incidents has been reduced by 50%. The length of the N4 border queue has been cut from 16km to 3km. A 36% reduction in container vessels’ waiting time at anchor has been achieved, along with a 73% reduction in the number of vessels at anchorage.
CRUCIAL DISCUSSION ON SA’S PORTS
Panelists representing Transnet and business debated the impact of Transnet’s monopoly, non-investment and the growing imperative for public-private partnerships to upgrade
port terminals, back of port solutions and infrastructure like rail.
“Competition breeds efficiency,” stated Oscar Borchards, acting managing executive for the Western Cape Transnet Port Terminals. He and panelist Brenda Magqwaka, who is the general manager at the office of the commercial executive at Transnet, revealed that the state-owned enterprise had benchmarked its port terminals against those in Singapore and Thailand. Borchards noted that compared to Thailand’s Laem Chabang port, the critical issue to be addressed in South Africa is the “boldness to invest and bring in redundancy”.
“Even though Transnet is a monopoly, we realise we cannot go it alone,” Magqwaka told conference delegates.
SAVING LIVES AND REDUCING DRUG SHORTAGES
While supply chains move goods from manufacturers to end users, they also save lives. Strong healthcare supply chains are critical to get lifesaving medicines and health commodities to destinations on time, including to the most vulnerable communities.
Recognising this, the 2024 SAPICS Conference featured a global public health supply chain track running throughout the event. These sessions examined topics ranging from last mile distribution challenges across Africa to the successful use of drones for the delivery of blood, medicines and snakebite antivenom. The role of AI was also explored in reducing drug shortages by analysing huge volumes of data faster than any human can, along with the power of public-private partnerships to enhance public health supply chains.
CIRCULARITY AND SUSTAINABILITY
As our natural resources dwindle and carbon emissions rise, circular supply chains are becoming more critical than ever. Circularity and sustainability were the focus of several absorbing sessions at the conference.
An important new book on the topic was launched at this year’s conference. Sustainable Supply Chain Orchestration is co-written by world-renowned circular supply chain expert, Deborah Dull and supply chain management leader, Douglas Kent.
Dull and Kent introduced SAPICS Conference attendees to their UNLEARN model, which is a framework outlined in their book and designed to foster sustainable practices in an organisation.
The Gold sponsors of the 2024 SAPICS Conference were SAP and VillageReach. For more conference highlights and speaker information, visit conference.sapics.org. •
