3 minute read
Scalp wellness is always in style
The healthier the scalp, the healthier the hair – this idea has been the springboard for the latest product launches in the global hair care industry. Shani Vermeulen of Cosmetic Ingredients shares insight into the attributes of beautiful hair, of which scalp care is paramount.
In a world where overall wellness is a key concept, consumers are homing in on scalp care because the scalp is not just any skin tissue. It is highly specialised because of the various functions it performs, such as being a physical barrier, an immunological protector, a thermal regulator and a sebum producer. It contains a high number of blood vessels, sebaceous glands and sweat glands to perform these functions. The sebaceous glands lubricate and waterproof the scalp and hair and the sweat glands regulate the body temperature by perspiring.
We all have lipophilic microflora, including Malassezia species, on the surface of our scalps which live symbiotically with their human hosts. Associated with dandruff, Malassezia helps maintain the acid balance on the scalp by breaking down the triglycerides in sebum, with oleic acid as one of a few by-products.
The causes of dandruff
When the microflora balance is disturbed by external factors, such as chemicals, UV exposure, sunburn, or mechanical stress, it affects the condition of the scalp or traumatises the hair follicle. The result is an increase in internal factors, including sebum production, immune response and sweat, leading to excessive production of oleic acid, which is very irritating to skin. If the over-production and irritation are not addressed, dandruff eventually develops. Even without flaking, stratum corneum abnormalities occur throughout the scalp of dandruff sufferers.These range from hyper proliferation and lipid droplets within corneocytes to fewer desmosomes and excessively disorganised intercellular lipids.
Helmets, hats and weaves all have the potential to cause scalp problems – wearing any of these for lengthy periods create a warm and humid microclimate on the scalp. This also happens to be the ideal environment for microbes to flourish.
Actives for a healthy scalp
It has been shown dandruff control eventually results in normalisation of the stratum corneum. CosmeticIngredients’ anhydrous blend a MaloCoat AD enables formulators to incorporate the anti-dandruff agent Zinc Pyrithione into hair food and hair oil products.
Aqia’s Tribo control CO is a rebalancing plant complex, which consists of essential oils, flavonoids, glucosides, terpenes, coumarins, mucilage, tannins and Rosmarinic Acid. It promotes hair and scalp cleansing from the root, by controlling excessive oil. It restores the balance of oily hair without drying and helps to prevent dryness, itching and irritation of the scalp.
Ormagel XPU from Assessa is a natural algae extract. Seaweed has no roots, stems, leaves or fruits, but still produces much more oxygen than it requires. The marine plant releases the excess oxygen to the environment and is widely recognised for its therapeutic, regenerating and toning properties. Seaweed also contains high concentrations of proteins, vitamins and mineral salts. These benefits are harnessed in Assessa, which helps protect the scalp against irritation caused by chemical hair straighteners and dyes. It is also often used in combination with traditional anti dandruff agents since it assists in balancing oil levels on the scalp and in this way, potentiates anti-dandruff action.
Combat hair loss
The continuous traumatisation and micro inflammation of the hair follicle results in hair loss. This is evident in the receding hairlines of women whose scalp shave been regularly exposed to hair straighteners. Traction alopecia is the result of hair having been pulled too tightly when applying braids and extensions.
Bioex Capillar CP4G is a complex of plant extracts traditionally used in preventing and combating hair loss. The complex is enriched with Acetyl Methionine, an amino acid essential for the formation and development of healthier, strong hair. Bioex Capillar CP4G is suggested for the treatment and prevention of excessive hair loss, due to its proven action of hair growth and hair bulb restoration. •
Blurred lines between hair and skin care
The latest line up of scalp specificproducts has been designed with the‘crossover’ trend in mind. Their benefitsgo beyond that of a regular dandruffshampoo with lotions, masks and spottreatments reimagined for hair and scalpcare. Innovative examples include OribeScalp Soothing Leave-On Treatment,Christophe Robin Cleansing PurifyingScrub With Sea Salt, and R+Co AcidWash ACV Cleansing Rinse.Source: www.thecut.com
Aqia –www.aqia.net/en Assessa – www.assessa.com.br/en Cosmetic Ingredients – www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za
