A holistic hair and scalp oil derived from biotech fermentation

AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil from Lubrizol Advanced Materials provides multiple benefits for hair and scalp care. Containing over 90% of beneficial omega-9, it helps protect and strengthen the fibres while hydrating and rejuvenating the scalp. By Eulalia Peri, Juliana Gomiero, Elena Cañadas, Carole Lepilleur, Jean Xavier and Raquel Delgado

Throughout history, women have invested time and effort into treating their hair. Greek women were known touse olive oil to condition their hair. Eventoday, this tradition of applying oils to provide nourishment and shine to both hair and scalpis still present in women’s beauty routines. For example, in India, women use coconut oil tonourish their hair and scalp.

Although cold-process methods are themost common way of obtaining naturaloils, they can also be obtained throughbiotechnology thanks to fermentation withalgae. Algae can be found in environmentsother than water, such as plants.

AlgaPūr high-stability high-oleic (HSHO)algae oil (INCI: Triolein) is an oil derived frommicroalgae that was originally sourced fromthe sap of a chestnut tree. Under favourable conditions, these microalgae will convert sugars into triglyceride oils, resulting in a highly stable bio-based oil with a low environmental footprint.

SCALP CARE

A fibroblast cell culture model was used to assess the ability of 0.05% AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil to exert an effect on collagen and elastin synthesis by means of an ELISA. Untreated cells were used as a control.

In vitro, AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil increases type I collagen (superior to argan oil, which is well-known for its anti-ageing benefits), as well as elastin synthesis (see Figures 1 and 2).

Figure 1: Type I collagen synthesis (*p<0.05)

Figure 2: Elastin synthesis (*p<0.05). #: 1% DMSO

To determine the ability of the oil to repair photodamage, EpiDerm tissue – a skin model consisting of normal human-derived epidermal keratinocytes cultured to form a multilayered, highly-differentiated model of the human epidermis – was exposed to UVB and treated with 0.05% AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil for 24 hours. Tissue viability (MTT assay) and thyamine dimer formation (TT dimer assay) were measured. Untreated cells were used as a control.

Results showed AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil can increase cell viability after UVB exposure, and it could have reparative properties as it decreases the signs of UV-induced cell damage in vitro (see Figures 3 and 4).

Figure 3: Cell viability

The algae oil was also tested in vivo on 14 volunteers who applied 18μL (2μl/cm²) of AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil on the volar forearm. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured using a corneometer and a vapometer, respectively. Test data confirmed that the oil confers immediate (four-hour) and long-lasting (24-hour) moisturisation to the skin. This is better than olive oil, which is well-known for its hydration properties. AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil also improves skin barrier function in the short and long term.

FIBRE CARE

To determine the protective benefit against hair breakage, bleached Caucasian type I hair tresses were treated with 0.5ml AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil or 0.5ml argan oil and repeatedly brushed 10 000 times. The broken fibres were evaluated every 1 000 strokes, and untreated hair tresses were used as control.

An 83% reduction in broken fibres was recorded, confirming that AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil provides excellent breakage protection similar to that of argan oil (see Figure 5).

Figure 4: UVinduced cell damage

Figure 5: Number of broken fibres after repeated combing tests

Figure 6: Visual evaluation of the split end

Thereafter, 50 double-bleached Caucasian type 1 hair fibres with split ends were randomly selected and each of the split end fibres was photographed. AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil (0.17ml/g hair) or argan oil (0.17ml/g hair) was applied on the tresses, which were left overnight and photographed the following day. The before/after images were graded and judged according to a visual evaluation scale, from one (no repair) to five (complete repair), showing AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil can mend split ends (see Figure 6).

CONCLUSION

AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil helps to naturally deliver a healthy fibre and scalp. The natural ingredient is produced through fermentation and is readily biodegradable. It also has a low environmental footprint in water, carbon and land use.

In vitro, the ingredient has been proven to increase type I collagen and elastin synthesis while decreasing the signs of UV-induced cell damage. In vivo, it provided immediate and long-lasting moisturisation and improved skin barrier function.

AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker – an approved local distributor of Lubrizol. •

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za

Lubrizol Advanced Materials – www.lubrizol.com