HAIR CARE
A holistic hair and scalp oil derived from biotech fermentation
AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil from Lubrizol Advanced Materials provides multiple benefits for hair and scalp care. Containing over 90% of beneficial omega-9, it helps protect and strengthen the fibres while hydrating and rejuvenating the scalp. By Eulalia Peri, Juliana Gomiero, Elena Cañadas, Carole Lepilleur, Jean Xavier and Raquel Delgado
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hroughout history, women have invested time and effort into treating their hair. Greek women were known to use olive oil to condition their hair. Even today, this tradition of applying oils to provide nourishment and shine to both hair and scalp is still present in women’s beauty routines. For example, in India, women use coconut oil to nourish their hair and scalp. Although cold-process methods are the most common way of obtaining natural oils, they can also be obtained through biotechnology thanks to fermentation with algae. Algae can be found in environments other than water, such as plants. AlgaPūr high-stability high-oleic (HSHO) algae oil (INCI: Triolein) is an oil derived from microalgae that was originally sourced from the sap of a chestnut tree. Under favourable
Did you know? AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil also provides shine, frizz control, smoothness and a conditioning feel to the hair fibre. These added benefits were determined during several additional tests performed on different types of hair, in which the algae oil showed excellent results that are comparable to argan oil.
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conditions, these microalgae will convert sugars into triglyceride oils, resulting in a highly stable bio-based oil with a low environmental footprint.
SCALP CARE A fibroblast cell culture model was used to assess the ability of 0.05% AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil to exert an effect on collagen and elastin synthesis by means of an ELISA. Untreated cells were used as a control. In vitro, AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil increases type I collagen (superior to argan oil, which is well-known for its anti-ageing benefits), as well as elastin synthesis (see Figures 1 and 2). To determine the ability of the oil to repair photodamage, EpiDerm tissue – a skin model consisting of normal human-derived epidermal keratinocytes cultured to form a multilayered, highly-differentiated model of the human epidermis – was exposed to UVB and treated with 0.05% AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil for 24 hours. Tissue viability (MTT assay) and thyamine dimer formation (TT dimer assay) were measured. Untreated cells were used as a control. Results showed AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil can increase cell viability after UVB exposure, and it could have reparative properties as it decreases the signs of UV-induced cell damage in vitro (see Figures 3 and 4). The algae oil was also tested in vivo on 14 volunteers who applied 18μL (2μl/cm²) of AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil on the volar forearm. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured using a corneometer and a vapometer, respectively. Test data confirmed that the oil confers immediate (four-hour) and long-lasting (24-hour) moisturisation to the skin. This is better than olive oil, which is well-known for its
Figure 1: Type I collagen synthesis (*p<0.05)
Figure 2: Elastin synthesis (*p<0.05). #: 1% DMSO
Figure 3: Cell viability hydration properties. AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil also improves skin barrier function in the short and long term.
FIBRE CARE To determine the protective benefit against hair breakage, bleached Caucasian type I hair tresses were treated with 0.5mℓ AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil or 0.5ml argan oil and repeatedly brushed 10 000 times. The broken fibres were evaluated every 1 000 strokes, and untreated hair tresses were used as control. An 83% reduction in broken fibres was recorded, confirming that AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil provides excellent breakage protection
