Through an innovative and out of the box approach to our clients’ needs, we are not only willing, but also able to provide practical and efficient cost-saving solutions to most printing and packaging challenges. A pioneering narrow web flexographic printer, ISW specializes in, while not confined to, the manufacturing of highly decorative and complex shrink sleeves, self-adhesive and wraparound labels, and various forms of flexible packaging. By working closely with local and international suppliers, and utilising specially developed in-house processes a multitude of innovative finishes including the likes of thermochromic, glow in the dark, domed, holographic and high lustre metallics along with specialised multi-perforation solutions for promotional items are achieved.
With the manufacturing plant consisting of 10-colour and eight-colour MPS EPW560’s and a full complement of the latest offerings in finishing equipment for the conversion and inspection of our products, ISW maintains the highest level of quality and is one of only a handful of narrow web printers capable of producing wide lay flat shrink sleeves, achieving a L/F of 276mm from a printed web width of 575mm. By offering assistance and advice with every step from concept to design, production and application; we are there to ensure our clients achieve their desired vision efficiently, affordably and consistently.
Volume 1 | Number 1
www.pharmacos.co.za
8 News
Brenntag launches vegan collagen in Europe
IFF unveils China scent exploration initiative
Compostable NatureFlex films for beauty sachets
12 Company Focus
Zinplex Cosmeceutical celebrates its 10th anniversary
14 Colour Cosmetics & Makeup Trends
Insights into 2025 beauty trends
Gattefossé launches Color Pulse formulation kit
18 Sensitive Skin & Baby Care
Geomulse by Arxada enhances mildness in formulations
Pantodium Cica: A sustainable breakthrough in sensitive skincare
Unlock the secret to pollutionproof skin with LongeviTEA
24 Pharma Focus: Laboratory Technology
Ensure lab compliance with solutions from Labotec
Vega instruments essential for autoclave sterilisation
First whole human genome sequenced in Nigeria
MS inclusion in US Pharmacopeia to boost biologics impurity control
30 Packaging/
Labelling
Tips and tricks to master shrink sleeve labelling
NSI Label brings global print solutions to South Africa
35 Association News
South African scientists shine at IFSCC Congress 2024
Embrace innovation in 2025
Happy New Year, and welcome to our first edition of the year! As we step into 2025, our January issue promises an exciting glimpse of the innovations and trends shaping the cosmetics and pharma industries. From the cosmetic counters to pharma laboratories –we're here to deliver the insights you need to thrive.
This month, we explore the vivid world of colour trends in the makeup category. With metallic accents and berry-toned lips making a statement, it's crucial for brands to remain in tune with consumer preferences. Turn to page 14 for more.
In the spirit of innovation, we celebrate the 10 th anniversary of Zinplex Cosmeceutical. In the dynamic world of cosmetics and health supplements, Zinplex Cosmeceutical has carved a niche for itself over the past decade. You can find out more about its 10-year journey on page 12
If you’re looking for new ingredients for sensitive skincare, turn to page 18 to learn about Arxada’s new line of versatile, non-ionic emulsifiers and surfactants
with proven mildness and active moisturisation benefits.
In our pharma focus we outline critical advancements and compliance measures in laboratory technology, highlighting efforts to improve data integrity, advance personalised medicine and enhance quality assurance processes in the pharmaceutical industry. Learn more on page 24 Here's to a year of discovery and collaboration. I hope 2025 is a remarkable year for the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.
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Brenntag launches vegan collagen in European markets
Brenntag Specialties has announced a strategic partnership with Cambrium, an innovative biotechnology company that uses AI and biology to design novel and performant active ingredients. This collaboration introduces NovaColl, a micromolecular and 100% skin-identical vegan collagen, to the Beauty & Personal Care sector in the UK and Ireland, Iberia, France, and Italy.
“NovaColl is produced through precision fermentation, resulting in a vegan, cruelty free and sustainable product”
NovaColl is produced through precision fermentation, resulting in a vegan, cruelty free and sustainable product. Its micro-molecular structure allows for powerful effects across skin layers, making it suitable for numerous skincare applications. By integrating NovaColl into formulations, brands can offer consumers a scientifically advanced solution that supports the skin's natural structure, promoting a more youthful and vibrant appearance.
Brenntag presented NovaColl at Cosmet'Agora, which took place on 14 and 15 January in Paris, France.
Patrick Koch, director of sales, Beauty & Care Europe at Brenntag Specialties, comments: “This innovative ingredient aligns with increasing consumer demand for sustainable and effective skincare solutions. Our Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centres across Europe are prepared to assist customers with tailored formulations including NovaColl. Our experienced technical service managers are committed to addressing individual needs and questions regarding the vegan collagen. We anticipate exploring further opportunities with Cambrium to introduce trendsetting products to the market.”
Lucile Bonnin, head of personal care at Cambrium, adds: “It's amazing to see how the market has responded to our concept of AI designed actives. We're excited to partner with Brenntag and its skilled team of technical experts to bring NovaColl and beyond to more innovators and formulations across the region. This partnership is a great example of how molecular innovation can have a massive impact.”
IFF unveils China scent exploration initiative
Leveraging AI and cultural insights to create unique fragrances for Chinese consumers, IFF has launched a China Scent Exploration Programme to enhance brand’s in the region. This programme builds on the company’s deep regional expertise, which began in 1981 when it became the first multinational fragrance company to establish operations in China.
“The Chinese fragrance market represents one of our industry's most exciting opportunities,” said Ana Paula Mendonça, president, Scent, IFF. “By combining artificial intelligence with deep cultural insights for the first time, we're transforming fragrances development in this dynamic market, unlocking unique opportunities for both global and local brands.”
Serving a market that spans fine fragrance ($2.15 billion), beauty and personal care ($77.35 billion), and home care ($18 billion)1, the initiative combines historical research, cultural analysis and AI to help brands develop unique scents that resonate deeply with Chinese consumers.
The programme is built on four strategic pillars:
1. Historical and cultural imprint , which analyses the longstanding and diverse use of traditional fragrance ingredients and seeks to understand how they might be integrated in modern products.
2. Sensorial influences, which conducts extensive research on cultural and botanical references and olfactive analysis of iconic Chinese ingredients to develop authentic scent profiles and unique storytelling for brands and their consumers.
3. Consumer insights developed by surveying 10 000 people across multiple cities and various generations from Gen X to Gen Z, while monitoring social media trends to capture emerging preferences.
4. Artificial intelligence, which translates the insights gathered into precise fragrance creation guidelines.
“Our research captures consumer opinions from tier-1 cities to emerging markets,” said Arnaud Montet, vice president of Global Human & Consumer Insights, Scent, IFF. “This unprecedented scale of insights enables us to help brands develop targeted fragrances while reducing development time and costs.”
The China Scent Exploration Programme tackles key market challenges, such as the evolving preferences of Chinese consumers and the need for culturally authentic fragrances. As part of IFF's global market programmes, this initiative enhances the company's ability to guide strategic decisions and design purposeful scents, helping brands create successful, tailored signatures for the Chinese market.
The initiative complements IFF's broader commitment to the region, including its Shanghai Creative Centre, a 16 000m2 facility that is now IFF's largest site in Asia.
REFERENCE:
1. IFF Scent proprietary research conducted by Euromonitor International, 2023
Compostable NatureFlex™ films for beauty sachet packaging
Australian-based Conserving Beauty has chosen renewable and compostable NatureFlex™ films to use within the sachet packaging for its cleansing wipes.
This skincare brand is known for its dissolvable and compostable skincare solutions, which includes the world-first dissolving cleansing wipes, sheet masks, and zit strips. Launched in November 2021, the company is making waves internationally and has won over eight global industry awards in Australia, the UK and USA. Conserving Beauty is on a mission to reduce the beauty industry’s water, carbon and waste footprint through groundbreaking innovation alongside conservation research.
In line with its sustainability values, Conserving Beauty has matched its products with the new Econic™ compostable packaging sourced from Convex, a New Zealand converter. The high-performance sachet material includes a layer of NatureFlex from Futamura, laminated to paper and another biofilm for hermeticity. NatureFlex™ films are produced from renewable wood pulp, harvested from responsibly managed plantations. They meet all the relevant standards for industrial composting, including AS4736, EN13432 and ASTM D6400.
NatureFlex™ films provide an excellent barrier against aroma, gas and moisture. The new laminate structure also runs well on the sachet lines and efficiently wraps the wipes.
Natassia Grace, founder and CEO of Conserving Beauty, confirmed: “I am delighted to have found this packaging solution for our dissolving wipes and
sheet masks. It was very important for the packaging to match the ethos of my brand. Product efficacy and sustainability initiatives remain very high in Conserving Beauty’s priority and R&D investments.”
Tamaki Kaga, regional sales manager at Futamura added: “We are very pleased that our NatureFlex™ film was selected as part of this solution for Conserving Beauty. Conventional structures for this type of product would have used combinations of plastics and foil, rendering them unrecyclable. Our renewable and compostable films are a good choice for this type of application, enabling a valid end of life option.”
Conserving Beauty’s dissolving wipes
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Celebrating a decade of quality and innovation
Celebrating its 10-year milestone, Zinplex Cosmeceutical stands as a testament to dedication and resilience in a competitive market.
By Abby Vorster
In the dynamic world of cosmetics and health supplements, Zinplex Cosmeceutical has carved a niche for itself over the past decade. Established in 2015, the company was born out of a desire to develop its own cosmeceutical products while growing into a trusted contract manufacturer. Subsequently, the business has expanded into a fully equipped operation, complete with a cutting-edge R&D laboratory and stability testing capabilities for cosmetic products.
Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s journey began with the vision of blending pharmaceutical precision with the beauty and brilliance of cosmetics. This vision has been realised within its class leading manufacturing facility, which is based in Pretoria and adheres to pharmaceutical-grade production standards.
The company recently attained its Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) qualification, highlighting a commitment to maintaining stringent safety and quality protocols. Its e-mark accreditation also guarantees that all products filled at Zinplex Cosmeceutical meet the highest industry standards, delivering quality and peace of mind to customers. These accreditations assure global customers that products manufactured by Zinplex Cosmeceutical meet international safety standards, which is essential for any brand looking to export to international markets.
Did you know?
Zinplex Cosmeceutical operates a modern water filtration plant, producing still and flavoured water with customisable labels and cap colours, tailored to meet each customer’s unique needs.
Its manufacturing facility is equipped with state-of-the-art machinery capable of crafting a diverse range of cosmetic and healthcare formulations, such as creams, gels, serums, and even dry powder products. This diversity not only showcases the manufacturer’s versatility but also its capacity to innovate across product categories.
A PARTNERSHIP FOR SUCCESS
Understanding the complexities and challenges faced by brand owners, particularly smaller enterprises, Zinplex Cosmeceutical has embraced a flexible business model. It offers solutions tailored to the specific needs of each customer, highlighted by its ability to accommodate lower minimum order quantities (MOQs) for brands that provide their own raw materials and packaging. This approach not only makes high-quality production
All products filled at Zinplex Cosmeceutical meet the highest industry standards
accessible to start-ups and smaller brands but also fosters an environment of partnership and growth.
Furthermore, Zinplex Cosmeceutical extends its expertise beyond manufacturing. Its in-house design services empower brands to conceptualise and realise their product visions, offering a seamless journey from ideation to product launch. This comprehensive support reinforces the contract manufacturer’s role as a full-service partner, guiding customers at each step of their journey.
NOVEL PRODUCT LINES AND MARKET ADAPTATION
The product portfolio of Zinplex Cosmeceutical is a tapestry of innovation, responding adeptly to consumer needs and market trends. Even amid challenges like the COVID-19 pandemic, the company demonstrated remarkable agility by launching new products such as hand sanitisers to meet emerging consumer demands.
"The product portfolio of Zinplex Cosmeceutical is a tapestry of innovation"
It is home to numerous product innovations, with standout offerings including the Zinplex Baby Bum Spray, designed for tender care; the Cooldown and Warm-Up Gels, catering to sports and active lifestyles; and the highly acclaimed Zinplex Spot Control, addressing common skincare concerns. These novel products have all been launched in response to market demand while illustrating the manufacturer’s proactive approach to defining and leading market trends. Zinplex Cosmeceutical continues to push boundaries, ensuring its product lines evolve alongside consumer expectations.
FACING CHALLENGES WITH FORTITUDE
The past decade has not been without its challenges. The global supply chain disruptions posed by the pandemic and shifts in consumer behaviors required rapid adaptations. Zinplex Cosmeceutical met these challenges head-on, leveraging its agility and world-class infrastructure to maintain product availability and quality. Its potential to adapt swiftly without compromising on quality standards is a testament to the company’s efficient operational model and committed team.
Looking ahead, Zinplex Cosmeceutical is poised for consistent growth and expansion. Its vision for the next decade is ambitious and inspiring – the team aims to elevate its service offerings and strengthen its position as a trusted partner in the cosmetics and health supplements
industries. By continuing to invest in its R&D and manufacturing capabilities, Zinplex Cosmeceutical is set to enhance its value proposition to customers as a one-stop shop.
A VISION FOR THE FUTURE
Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s journey over the past 10 years is a remarkable narrative of growth, resilience and innovation. As the business celebrates this significant milestone, it remains true to its core values of quality, safety and partnership. The company’s contributions to the industries it serves extend beyond products with the drive to help shape the future landscape of cosmetics and nutraceuticals in South Africa and beyond. As Zinplex Cosmeceutical looks to the future, it does so with confidence and an unwavering commitment to excellence. •
2025 Beauty Trends A fusion of elegance, innovation & self-expression
Abby
Vorster
explores key movements in makeup that are set to define beauty in 2025, inspiring creativity and self-expression among makeup aficionados across the nation.
As we step into 2025, the landscape of colour cosmetics and makeup in South Africa continues to evolve, driven by a rich tapestry of global influences. This year, the beauty industry is witnessing a fascinating convergence of trends from the Middle East, shaping the vibrant and diverse preferences of South African consumers. From shimmering metallics and bold pops of colour to softly blurred complexions and the revival of '90s nostalgia, makeup enthusiasts are embracing a harmonious blend of elegance and expressiveness. These trends not only highlight the innovative spirit of makeup but also cater to the cultural nuances and dynamic tastes inherent in our country.
INGREDIENTS TO ACHIEVE ON-TREND LOOKS
Celebrity makeup artists have highlighted a number of must-try trends for 2025. They are set out in this list along with key formulation ingredients:
• Metallic accents – silver eye shadows and shimmering highlighters are making a comeback, offering a futuristic vibe. The resurgence of metallics is supported by innovative formulations that include mineral-based ingredients like mica and titanium dioxide. These ingredients offer a safe way to achieve high shimmer and reflective finishes, crucial for metallic eyeshadows and highlighters.
• Subtle, soft skin – a move towards softly focused, blurred complexions is apparent, minimising imperfections while maintaining natural radiance. This look is often achieved using lightweight, hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, which provide moisture without adding shine. Siliconebased ingredients are commonly used to create a smooth, velvety finish, helping to blur imperfections.
• Popping eyelids – vibrant colours are applied across the whole eyelid for an androgynous look. Creamy eyeshadows make application easier and are encouraged for a playful aesthetic. Bright and bold eyeshadows are enabled by high-pigment formulations, which rely on synthetic dyes and pigments to provide vivid colour payoff.
• Just-kissed and blurred lips –shades are prominent for lips, complemented by a natural, just-bitten look. This trend caters to the desire for fresh, naturally beautiful appearances, moving away from bright tones. Emollients like shea butter and jojoba oil are commonly used in lip stains and tinted balms to deliver colour while keeping lips moisturised. Waxes and polymers can also help achieve the desired blurred, long-lasting finish. These trends highlight a blend of minimalism and bold expressions,
reflecting diverse influences in the South African market.
INNOVATIONS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST
Schwan Cosmetics recently unveiled new Lipbloss and BrowFix products at BeautyWorld Middle East. The launch reflects the ongoing shift towards multifunctional products and minimalistic makeup trends.
The Middle East is fast becoming a hot spot for rising trends and brands. Emerging premium brands like Armaf Beauté, along with
Fiabila’s Sun'sational Nail Bronzer gives nails a sun-kissed glow
many strong indie brands, are driving these developments and setting new standards in the region. Combining high-performing products with care ingredients has become a key trend fuelled by socially and environmentally conscious young consumers.
“No region implements innovation as fast as Dubai. The beauty market in the Middle East is at the forefront, where innovations are recognised and adopted faster due to shorter decision-making processes,” says Tobias Friedrich, vice president of sales EMEA at Schwan Cosmetics.
Globally, the skinification of makeup has made lip care an essential and popular part of the daily skincare routine. Earlier this year, Cult Beauty reported a 73% increase in searches for
Schwan Cosmetics’ extra-tingly new lipbloss – a hybrid of a gloss and balm – combines the hydrating properties of a lip balm with the shine of a gloss. Lipbloss contains 17% jojoba oil and 0.2% peptide-hyaloron blend to achieve a highgloss plumped finish without a sticky feeling on
Natural statement brows continue to be a sought-after feature, and TikTok content hashtagging ‘brow growth’ has accumulated over 40 million views. To meet the growing demand for growth-supporting brow makeup, Schwan Cosmetics launches a three-inone BrowFix that strengthens, colours and fixes eyebrows in place. A total of 94% of the clean and vegan formula is made of natural ingredients and contains 3.95% boosting care ingredients, such as Eriobotrya japonica extract for hair growth and Panax ginseng root extract to activate intercellular communication, improving the physiology of hair growth. These innovations from Schwan Cosmetics are available in South Africa from SDK Laboratories.
TRADITIONAL DYE ALTERNATIVES
Vividye, a Swedish deep-tech startup known for its sustainable approach
to colouring textiles, is branching out into the cosmetics industry. By adapting its pigmentbased technology, the company aims to provide safer and more environmentally friendly options for colouring cosmetics like hair dye, makeup and lipstick.
"Makeup enthusiasts are embracing a harmonious blend of elegance and expressiveness"
“Moving into cosmetics felt like natural progress. The cosmetics industry faces distinct challenges, including stringent regulatory demands and high consumer expectations for product safety and environmental sustainability. Our technology offers a better alternative to traditional dyes, and we’ve seen a growing need for this in products that people use on their skin and hair,” says CEO, Johanna Nissén Karlsson.
Vividye is building solutions that are based on progressive research on pigments and surface chemistry. Unlike traditional dyes, which are small molecules that can penetrate materials and pose health and environmental risks, its functionalised pigments are larger particles designed to adhere to surfaces without dissolving in water. This makes them safer for skin and hair and easier to filter from water. The technology is also adaptable, offering a way to create vibrant and long-lasting colours across various applications.
NOVEL NAIL CARE SOLUTIONS
According to Fiabila, it is the only company in the nail market to master all the technologies needed to create conventional formulas based on responsibly sourced components. Its plant-based formulas include ingredients of natural origin – up to 86% for nail polishes. These water-based formulas are also breathable and naturally light-reactive, which significantly reduces nitrosamines levels in the thixotropic bases.
In 2024, the company developed the Alkyd Resins complex, an ultra-high-performance three-in-one nail polish with no base or topcoat. It also reinvented UV gel technology, which reduces exposure to sensitising agents, protecting the health of nail professionals and consumers.
Now Fiabila is preparing for the future with its 2026/7 campaign that is based on six trends, each with an innovative product offering. Among them is skinification – this trend focuses on holistic nail care with a range of specific primers, depending on the type of nail: brittleness; growth; appearance, etc. Active ingredients take centre stage as Fiabila strives to significantly increase their concentration for a multifunctional approach.
The company pioneered the Stick & Grip technology found at the heart of the gripping properties of its Color Fuse Priming Serum. Colour can be applied instantly to this primer enriched with Hexanal and AHAs, chemically fusing with it to form a single layer of longlasting polish.
Fiablia is also a front runner with the Sun'sational Nail Bronzer. This formula gives nails a sun-kissed glow while acting as a protective and repairing shield, just like ‘sunkissed radiance’ makeup formulas.
Driven by the quest for well-being, the hybrid Peptide Nail Glaze delivers a high concentration of active ingredients to strengthen the nail. The My CC Nail Blush formula blends effortlessly and perfectly into the nail's natural shade to give it a healthy glow.
Represented by Fourchem in South Africa, Fiabila’s expertise and resources are well-stocked to meet all demands aimed at nail beauty, with a renewed commitment to excellence and safety. The company will present its next collection at Cosmoprof Bologna in March 2025. •
Vividye’s technology offers a sustainable alternative to traditional dyes
BrowFix by Schwan Cosmetics strengthens, colours and fixes eyebrows in place
Color Pulse: makeup formulations to match every need
Gattefossé is making 2025 all about makeup. More than just a formulation kit, Color Pulse is the perfect opportunity to share the supplier’s knowledge on how to formulate makeup that is sensorial, high-performing, and natural.
With the launch of Emulium® Illustro in 2019, Gattefossé had already diversified into pigmented formulations. Emulium® Illustro is a water-in-oil emulsifier that is highly compatible with pigments and UV filters. Following the recruitment of experienced people in the field, the supplier has increased its efforts to research the compatibilities and possibilities of its ingredients in colour cosmetics.
Gattefossé has developed several makeup formulations and presentations to showcase the latest trends in makeup, inspire customers and share technical tips, offering them keys to success.
“Makeup formulation, although it’s a full-blown expertise, is incredibly interesting thanks to the creativity it requires. With the rise of naturality in skincare, brands have also started to embrace this trend in colour cosmetics, despite the challenge it represents.
The lab team has developed a strong expertise in makeup over the years and is ready to support customers in their transition to natural makeup,” explains Lysiane Teyssier, product marketing leader – texture ingredients and personal care applications.
Formulation: Serum foundation
A NEW KIT WITH COLOUR FORMULAS
"Gattefossé’s
liquid, cream, stick, and powder. There are also various formulation types, including W/O, O/W, and anhydrous.
“My team and I are very proud of this Color Pulse kit, which we have spent three years developing. We are sure that it will be appreciated by every makeup lover as it contains ‘must have formulas’ to start a makeup line coupled with more creative and
more challenging formulations. We enjoyed designing every formula while pushing Gattefossé’s ingredients to perform at their best,” says Patricia Sengel, cosmetic formulation laboratory manager.
The Color Pulse kit is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker.
SERUM FOUNDATION INNOVATION
Designed for its high sensoriality, this serum glides easily on the skin to even out the complexion with a bare-skin effect. Its fluidity makes it perfectly adapted to dropper packaging. Because it is enriched with Gatuline® Radiance, skin maintains a healthy glow even after removing makeup.
It was developed in three shades, all with the same properties, making it easy for customers to create a full shade range.
Emulsified with Emulium® Illustro, this formula is cold-processable and contains more than 97% of natural origin ingredients. •
Carst & Walker – carst.com
Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com
Emulium® Illustro Pigment empowered
Emulium® Illustro is a water-in-oil emulsifier that is highly compatible with pigments and UV filters, but also with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.
PEG-free and COSMOS approved, this new ingredient perfectly meets consumer requirements in terms of naturality and formulator expectations in performance and flexibility.
The gentle power of science in skincare
Geomulse™ by Arxada is a new line of versatile, non-ionic emulsifiers and surfactants with proven mildness and active moisturisation benefits.
As much as 50% of the global population claims to suffer from sensitive skin, making them especially aware of the irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients. Emulsifiers, surfactants, fragrances and preservatives have received scrutiny when it comes to sensitive skin. Scalp, skin and eye irritation are among the primary concerns associated with irritation caused by rinse-off and leave-on products. care application. They are also particularly suitable for use in products positioned for sensitive skin or infants and children.
"Arxada designed its Geomulse™ range of polyglycerol esters to help formulators address challenges"
When it comes to skin irritation, ionic surfactants, and particularly sulfate-based surfactants such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), are well known ‘bad actors’. This is due to their ability to bind to structural and functional skin proteins and dissolve lipids critical to the skin barrier.
Geomulse™ polyglycerol esters are different. Because of their non-ionic nature they show excellent mildness on skin and eyes, making them ideal for any personal
Geomulse™ C15 RSPO MB
PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
Decyl Glucoside
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Phosphate Buffered Saline (negative control)
5% Sodium Dodecy Sulfate (positive control)
ENHANCED MILDNESS AND MOISTURISATION
While superior mildness is a major advantage of any surfactant or emulsifier, Geomulse™ polyglycerol esters go a step further by providing active moisturisation benefits. Key to this is the polyglycerol nature of the polar head group, with glycerol being well known for its excellent humectant properties.
As shown in table 2, the results from an in vitro MatTek™ Irritation Study comparing Geomulse™ C15 RSPO MB with various benchmark surfactants, highlight the superior mildness of Arxada’s Geomulse™ range of polyglycerol esters. Additional data is available which demonstrates mildness to eyes as well as skin barrier enhancing benefits.
WHAT ARE GEOMULSE™ POLYGLYCEROL ESTERS?
They are ester emulsifiers with a wide range of hydrophiliclipophilic characteristics. These surfactants, made via esterification of a polyglycerol and a fatty acid, form a molecule which contains a hydrophilic head group and hydrophilic tail group.
Irritant
FORMULATING WITHOUT COMPROMISE
Arxada designed its Geomulse™ range of polyglycerol esters to help formulators address numerous challenges. These include increased speed to market, sustainability requirements and consumer demand for products that care for their health long term. As a result, the esters are based on a single, versatile and customisable chemistry, which provides improved formulation efficiency and speeds up innovation.
The product line also helps formulators strike a balance between functionality, aesthetics and mildness across all categories of personal care and beauty.
As consumers continue to challenge the ingredients used in products, they are on the lookout for alternatives that are better for people and the environment.
These polyglycerol esters also provide gentle cleansing and unique rheology-building properties, allowing formulators to create a diverse range of textures and strengths using just one ingredient.
Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Geomulse™ polyglycerol esters are designed to deliver an enhanced sensorial experience across all personal care leave-on and rinse-off applications, ultimately providing an easy-to-formulate single option for better efficacy. •
Table 2
A sustainable breakthrough in sensitive skincare
The skincare industry continually seeks innovative ingredients to provide solutions for sensitive skin.
One emerging technology is Pantodium Cica, which is gaining recognition for its potential to soothe and heal the skin.
Vitamin B5 or pantothenic acid has a wide range of skincare benefits, but it is unstable and challenging to use in cosmetic formulations. For this reason, its precursor, D-Panthenol, which is mostly of synthetic origin, is widely used in cosmetics as a moisturiser, healing agent, protector and soother.
As a natural and sustainable alternative to synthetic D-Panthenol, Codif’s Pantodium Cica represents a new frontier in skincare, particularly for regeneration strategies. The innovation lies in the ingredient’s ability to enable the skin’s microbiome to feed on Pantodium Cica to produce vitamin B5 with the same efficiency as D-Panthenol.
According to Codif, from as early as the second application of Pantodium Cica, a synergy occurs between the active ingredient and vitamin B5, known as the Pantodium B5 complex.
A SUSTAINABLE SOURCE
Pantodium Cica is obtained through the fermentation of Codium tomentosum, giant unicellular algae with regenerative properties. Codium tomentosum belongs to the family of siphoned algae. It appears as tubes (or siphons) arranged in complex networks, all within a single cell. If all the siphons of Codium were unraveled and laid end to end, they would stretch for nearly 30km.
"Pantodium Cica demonstrated a remarkable 12% improvement in hydration levels after just two days"
Codium is interesting algae for skincare because of its regenerative capabilities. It is cultivated in Aveiro, Portugal, by Algaplus, a partner of Codif. Once harvested, Codium undergoes fermentation. The alga and its symbiotic bacteria are cultivated separately, then brought into contact during the fermentation stage in a bioreactor.
MECHANISM OF ACTION AND EFFICACY
Pantodium Cica's effectiveness is rooted in its ability to reinforce the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), which is essential for skin stability and regeneration. The DEJ serves as the direct adhesion support for keratinocytes, facilitating epidermal regeneration through two crucial stages: 1. Regeneration stage – This phase focuses on cell division, crucial for replacing damaged epidermis. Pantodium Cica boosts this process by enhancing the division of
keratinocytes through an increase in growth factors.
2. Cell differentiation stage – In this finishing phase, Pantodium Cica stimulates processes related to cell differentiation, including the synthesis of adhesion proteins, epidermal lipids and components of the corneal envelope.
The efficacy of Pantodium Cica is validated by clinical data. In hydration tests, a single application showed a significant increase in moisturisation within 24 hours. For individuals with dry skin, Pantodium Cica demonstrated a remarkable 12% improvement in hydration levels after just two days, escalating to over 30% after one week. When used at concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 1%, it visibly improves skin texture and reduces redness and irritation, delivering noticeable restructuring benefits within the first week.
A PROMISING SOLUTION
As the interest in sensitive skincare continues to surge, innovations like Pantodium Cica offer a promising solution. For skincare brands, manufacturers and cosmetic chemists, understanding market demands for sensitive skincare and integrating technologies like Pantodium Cica into new product development can pave the way for products that not only cater to sensitive skin but also resonate with consumer values.
Pantodium Cica is available in South Africa from Vantage. •
Did you know?
During in-cosmetics Asia, Pantodium Cica was awarded bronze in the actives category at the Innovation Zone Best Ingredients Awards 2024.
LongeviTEA delivers on its promises, prolonging skin’s youthful appearance and promoting overall wellness. Just as the tea plant adapts and thrives, LongeviTEA helps the skin maintain balance when faced with modern life’s challenges.
By Silvia Moretti, R&D biologist at SOCRI
The rise of urbanisation brings numerous challenges to skin health, with pollution being one of the most problematic.
Oxidative stress, caused by environmental aggressors like smog, dust, pesticides and harmful gases, can accelerate skin ageing, leading to premature wrinkles, pigmentation and a compromised skin barrier.
LongeviTEA (INCI: Glycerin, Camellia sinensis extract) is a biomimetic innovation inspired by the strength of Camellia sinensis, offering advanced protection against pollution-induced skin damage.
Adaptogens are nature’s answer to enhancing the body’s resistance to stressors. These molecules are gaining attention in the wellness and cosmetics industries. Originating from traditional medicine, in skincare adaptogens are celebrated for the ability to mitigate the effects of abiotic stressors.
LongeviTEA exemplifies this trend, exploiting the adaptogenic characteristics of Camellia sinensis by capitalising its remarkable ability to resist biologic, physical and chemical stressors for protecting and revitalising the skin, unveiling the essence of longevity.
mechanism by which pollution accelerates skin ageing beyond its natural course. Urban dust settles on the skin, often penetrating its deeper layers, leading to inflammation, dehydration and a weakened barrier, increasing sensitivity and irritation.
" LongeviTEA aligns with the values of efficacy and sustainability "
Furthermore, pollutants generate free radicals that damage collagen and elastin, essential for skin firmness and youth, and worsen pigmentation issues such as dark spots or uneven skin tone.
Camellia sinensis employs several strategies to protect itself from pollution while maintaining growth and productivity.
A key mechanism is the production of antioxidant compounds like catechins, among other phenols, which neutralise free radicals generated by environmental stressors, including air pollutants. These antioxidants play a vital role in reducing oxidative damage and maintaining plant cellular health.
STRATEGIES TO PROTECT FROM POLLUTION
Epidemiological studies indicate a strong connection between poor air quality and skin issues, highlighting oxidative stress as a key
The adaptive strategies of Camellia sinensis serve as the foundation for the development of LongeviTEA, a newly added active ingredient to Greengredients family, available in South Africa from IMCD.
It incorporates Camellia sinensis extract derived from the Bama Yao region in China,
a place renowned for the exceptional longevity of its residents.
ANTIOXIDANT AND ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ACTION
While pollution exacerbates skin ageing by generating reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes stimulated with urban dust, treatment with LongeviTEA has shown to significantly decrease the cellular oxidative DNA damage, as evidenced by 8-hydroxy2’-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) reduction, the endogenous marker of cellular oxidative stress (graph 1). Moreover, it lowers IL-1alpha levels (graph 2), an inflammatory marker triggered by pollution.
LongeviTEA’s dual action as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent makes it a comprehensive solution for urban skin challenges. In vitro studies show its efficacy in mitigating the harmful effects of pollutants, highlighting its relevance in formulations aimed at preserving skin health and youthfulness.
A SOLUTION FOR ECO-CONSCIOUS BRANDS
LongeviTEA aligns with the values of efficacy and sustainability, being biodegradable and environmentally safe. Its chemical structure and natural origin ensure minimal ecological impact, making it a preferred choice for eco-conscious brands. This commitment to sustainability also enhances its appeal in a market increasingly focused on green beauty.
Versatile and effective, its water solubility ensures seamless integration into various formulations, offering protection and antiageing benefits in a single product.
Adaptogens are transforming the cosmetics industry, merging ancient traditions with modern scientific advancements. In this evolving landscape, LongeviTEA emerges as an example of nature’s potential combined with innovation and sustainability. Designed to address stressors like pollution and promote skin strength, it marks a significant advancement in the beauty journey. •
Greengredients – www.greengredients.it
IMCD SA – www.imcdsa.co.za
Laboratory compliance in pharma and life sciences
GLP and GxP compliance is paramount in biotechnology and pharmaceutical manufacturing. These guidelines ensure the quality and integrity of laboratory data, which is crucial for upholding trust and credibility. In this article, Abby Vorster explores core elements of GxP compliance and highlights various laboratory equipment and solutions from Labotec which support these guidelines.
GxP compliance revolves around traceability, accountability, and data integrity. Laboratories must ensure thorough documentation, staff training, consistent procedures, and equipment validation to meet these standards. Compliance with Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) and GxP guidelines is not just a regulatory requirement but a cornerstone of quality assurance in laboratory operations.
LABORATORY EQUIPMENT AND SOLUTIONS
To complement GLP and GxP guidelines, laboratories need to invest in specialised equipment and solutions. Key equipment needs include:
• Routine monitoring and validation equipment ensures that laboratory conditions and processes remain within specified parameters.
• Incubators and stability testing equipment are essential for maintaining controlled environments for sample storage and testing.
• Sample and glass handling equipment facilitates the safe and efficient handling of samples and glassware.
" Laboratories must stay up to date with the latest technologies and guidelines"
• Liquid handling solutions automate the precise dispensing of liquids, reducing the risk of contamination and error.
• Laminar flow benches provide a sterile environment for sensitive laboratory procedures.
• Analysis equipment includes a range of instruments for various analytical techniques, ensuring accurate and reliable results.
IMPORTANCE OF IQ/OQ DOCUMENTATION AND CERTIFICATION
Installation Qualification (IQ) and Operational Qualification (OQ) documentation and certification are critical for laboratory equipment. These processes ensure that equipment is installed correctly and functions as intended, which is essential for maintaining compliance with GLP and GxP guidelines. Laboratories must stay up to date with the latest technologies and guidelines to ensure ongoing compliance.
LABOTEC: A COMPREHENSIVE SOLUTIONS PROVIDER
Labotec is a leading provider of laboratory equipment and services for the pharmaceutical, biotechnology, and research industries. Its catalog includes a wide range of products from well-known, global suppliers. These products can be used for the following applications:
• Melting point analysis
• Nitrogen determination
• NIR spectroscopy
• Laser particle sizing
• Microscopy
• Rotary evaporation
• Soxhlet extraction
• Parallel evaporation
• Flash and preparative chromatography
• Freeze drying
• Spray drying
• Electrospraying.
Labotec also emphasises the importance of IQ/OQ for ensuring that equipment is properly installed and functioning as intended. Its expertise in process development allows the business to provide valuable advice and support to customers. Additionally, Labotec offers a range of services, including laboratory-scale production of nanofiber-based biomedical and pharmaceutical products. If you’re looking for equipment supplied by Labotec which complements the GLP and GxP guidelines for pharma, click here: https://www.labotec.co.za/glp-gxplaboratory-compliance/
Maintaining GLP and GxP compliance is essential for laboratories in the pharmaceutical and life sciences industries. By investing in the right equipment and staying updated with the latest technologies and guidelines, laboratories can ensure the highest standards of quality and integrity. Labotec stands out as a comprehensive solutions provider, offering a wide range of equipment and services to support the development and production of high-quality products. •
Labotec – www.labotec.co.za
Elga LabWater purfication system
Buchi Rotavapor
Science is a journey. A journey to continuously grow, nurture and evolve We are passionate about working side by side with our customers to understand challenges and make a difference.
In providing the tools, we hope to collectively work towards better health, well-being, and a cleaner environment.
Avoid playing autoclave roulette
Autoclaves play a critical role in ensuring the sterility of medical and pharmaceutical products. VEGA’s level and pressure measurement solutions deliver the precision and reliability essential for autoclave sterilisation.
Using high-pressure steam to sterilise items, each autoclave houses four chambers that undergo a rigorous sterilisation process. Within each chamber, dry and saturated steam is maintained at 2.7 bar of pressure and 130°C, eliminating pathogens from medical products. For optimal operation and consistent sterilisation, two key parameters – water level and pressure – must be monitored and controlled.
STERILITY CAN’T BE A HIT OR MISS
With autoclaves, several key process conditions come into play. Measuring tasks include level and pressure measurements conducted at specific points within the chambers. The measuring range for level measurement can extend up to 0.4m, and process temperatures fluctuate between +120°C and +140°C, with process pressures ranging from +1 to +3 bar.
To effectively manage these demanding conditions, VEGA provides the VEGAFLEX 81 and VEGABAR 83 sensors, designed to meet the stringent requirements of autoclave operations.
" VEGA provides solutions specifically designed for hygienic applications"
In a typical scenario, a laboratory technician uses the VEGAFLEX 81 to closely monitor the water level in the condensate sump, ensuring it stays within the ideal range for optimal steam production. Meanwhile, the VEGABAR 83 continuously tracks the internal pressure of the chamber, confirming that it is maintained correctly throughout the sterilisation cycle. If either the pressure or water levels stray from the designated range, the VEGA sensors issue real-time alerts, allowing for immediate corrections. This two-pronged measurement system not only guarantees product sterility but also safeguards equipment from potential damage caused by excessive pressure or dry operation.
SENSORS TO ENHANCE EFFICIENCY
The VEGAFLEX 81 guided radar sensor is designed for accurate level measurement in
challenging process environments. By using guided radar technology, it provides reliable readings of the water level in the condensate sump, even under extreme pressure and temperature conditions. Maintaining the correct water levels is critical for steam generation and optimal sterilisation processes. Its hygienic design includes process fittings for aseptic operations, which are required in the production of medical consumables. Specialised seals and housing materials facilitate long-term, maintenance-free operation, which supports continuous production.
When it comes to usability, the VEGAFLEX 81 offers a user-friendly menu-driven adjustment system, streamlining setup and calibration. Its design helps minimise setup errors and reduce downtime, boosting operational efficiency. With a measurement range of up to 75m, the VEGAFLEX 81 operates in temperatures spanning from -60°C to 200°C and can handle pressures from -1 to 40 bar. These features make it well-suited for maintaining the controlled environment necessary in an autoclave, ensuring that water levels are kept consistently within the required parameters.
The VEGABAR 83 pressure transmitter offers several advantages that make it an easy choice for monitoring and regulating pressure within autoclave chambers. With remarkable resistance to temperature fluctuations and condensate, it ensures consistent performance despite rapid changes in temperature and high humidity present. The device promotes aseptic operation, with the metallic measuring cell engineered to withstand frequent sterilisation cycles, enhancing the unit's durability and reliability.
A CLEAN WIN
VEGA provides solutions specifically designed for hygienic applications, offering significant advantages to pharmaceutical and medical industries. Instruments are manufactured from certified hygienic materials that meet FDA and EC 1935/2004 standards, ensuring compliance with strict regulatory requirements. VEGA process instrumentation is cost-effective, featuring universally applicable electronics that simplify inventory management and reduce expenses associated with maintaining a variety of instruments.
The VEGA plics® concept standardises the adjustment process across all devices, not only promoting easy integration but also facilitating intuitive operation, making setup, training and troubleshooting more straightforward for users.
VEGA’s level and pressure measurement solutions deliver the precision and reliability essential for autoclave sterilisation in the medical consumables sector. The VEGAFLEX 81 and VEGABAR 83 play a crucial role in maintaining optimal operating conditions, supporting efficient, safe and hygienic processes critical to healthcare. •
First whole human genome sequenced in Nigeria
Illumina, a global leader in DNA sequencing and array-based technologies, congratulates ACEGID for the first ever human genome sequenced in Nigeria.
The Institute of Genomics and Health at Redeemer’s University – formerly known as African Centre of Excellence for Genomics of Infectious Diseases (ACEGID) – has successfully sequenced an entire human genome for the first time on Nigerian soil.
This momentous milestone comes at the time of the official opening of the Genomics and Bioinformatics training Academy within ACEGID at Redeemer’s University. This facility will significantly increase the supply of qualified technical workforce for nextgeneration sequencing wet lab management, bioinformatics, big data analytics and advanced artificial intelligence/machine learning applications.
DIVERSITY
AND INCLUSION IN MEDICAL RESEARCH
Using Illumina’s NovaSeq X Plus sequencer, more than 20 000 whole genomes can be sequenced each year. This is 2.5 times the throughput of NovaSeq 6000, making projects like this one possible.
“Successfully sequencing a whole human genome at the Institute of Genomics and Health
Did you know?
Although Africa is the birthplace of humanity which harbours immense genetic diversity, less than 2% of human genomes analysed so far have been from African people.1
is a significant milestone as from here we will be able to grow our understanding of genetic diversity and ancestry of African populations which is currently underrepresented in genomic research,” said Dr Happi, Director of the Institute of Genomics and Health.
"Sequencing capacity developed at the institute opens doors to personalised medicine"
The Institute of Genomics and Health has successfully sequenced 11 human samples on the NovaSeq X Plus and analysed them on the Illumina DRAGEN secondary analysis platform. All samples passed the threshold for a high quality human whole genome equivalent.
The inclusion of diverse African populations can create inclusive and relevant scientific knowledge, which challenges potential historical bias in medical research.
“This groundbreaking achievement marks a significant step forward in our understanding of genetic diversity and ancestry of African populations and human genetics in general,” said Gretchen Weightman, Illumina’s senior vice president of the Asia-Pacific, Middle East & Africa region.
OPENING DOORS TO PERSONALISED MEDICINE
The Institute of Genomics and Health and Illumina entered into a partnership agreement to establish a genomics training academy at Redeemer’s University in 2003. The delivery of the first Illumina NovaSeqTM X Plus in Africa to the Institute of Genomics and Health last year was an important milestone to embedding genomics capability within Africa.
“Sequencing capacity developed at the Institute of Genomics and Health opens doors to personalised medicine, targeted therapies, and disease prevention. It empowers our scientists to study genetic factors related to diseases prevalent in African populations,” Dr Happi said.
The Institute of Genomics and Health is a global hub of excellence for genomic research, and it is leading the way in using genomics to improve public health in Africa. The procurement of the NovaSeq X Plus by The Institute of Genomics and Health is a testament to the centre’s commitment to scientific innovation and changing the narratives about science in Africa. Genomics is rapidly transforming the way we diagnose and treat diseases, and it has the potential to revolutionise healthcare on the continent. •
Dr Happi, director of the Institute of Genomics and Health (Image: Illumina)
MS inclusion in US Pharmacopeia to boost biologics impurity control
MS-based analysis of host cell proteins could revolutionise the quality assurance of biopharmaceuticals, since its inclusion in the US Pharmacopeia is expected to lead to stricter requirements from regulatory authorities such as the US FDA.
Mass spectrometry (MS) analysis delivers significantly more detailed and informative data than today’s most widely used methods and marks a breakthrough that could revolutionise impurity control in the pharma industry.
“It is an industry-wide challenge to control HCPs to ensure the safety and quality of biopharmaceutical products. MS methods have now been developed to the point where they can detect and identify even very small amounts of impurities,” says Derrick Zhang, senior scientist with the US Pharmacopeia.
On 1 December, a new general chapter was made available in the US Pharmacopeia (USP), providing biopharmaceutical developers with guidelines for MS-based quantification of host cell protein (HCP) impurities in biologic drugs. This brings the pharma industry to the threshold of a paradigm shift, which could reduce unwanted side effects of biologics while clearing the way for more advanced products.
RAPID PATHWAY TO DEVELOPMENT
“We’re facing a breakthrough in the pharmaceutical industry. MS is a quick and effective method that can identify tens of thousands of different host cell proteins while detecting their respective amounts, allowing the targeted removal of harmful impurities in drugs. This method
MS-based HCP analysis has been under development since the 1990s
CONTROLLING PROTEIN IMPURITIES
Understanding the unique needs of the South HCPs are unintended impurities produced during the process of developing and manufacturing biotherapeutic medicines such as vaccines, antibody treatments and gene therapies. To ensure the quality of biologic drugs, it is necessary to remove these residual proteins, which could otherwise limit drug effectiveness or cause side effects in patients.
Some protein impurities currently escape detection by the widely used ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay) analysis. Going forward, regulatory authorities will encourage drug manufacturers to use MS in combination with ELISA, or MS analysis on its own, for the control and documentation of product impurities.
Did you know?
MS-based HCP analysis has been under development since the ‘90s. Alphalyse, a Danish contract research organisation, has specialised in MS-based HCP analysis since 2007, developing and implementing many of the analytic methods described in the new USP chapter.
" MS offers a much faster development pathway than conventional methods"
is also suitable for complex products such as cell and gene therapies for the treatment of cancers, Alzheimer’s, and genetic disorders,” says Ejvind Mørtz, PhD in protein chemistry and molecular biology and co-founder of Alphalyse. “The recognition of MS as a complementary method opens the door for us to support biopharmaceutical developers in getting their drugs approved for clinical trials and patient treatment.”
MS also offers a much faster development pathway than conventional methods. Process-specific ELISA analysis requires up to 24 months to develop, while an MS-based HCP analysis can be carried out in under three months. Another significant factor is that Alphalyse’s method is highly reproducible whereas traditional analysis can yield varied results.
“This means we can compare analytical results and use our experience across projects to help biologics developers
improve their products. We hope the new method chapter from the USP will lead to increased knowledge and control of impurities across the industry, allowing companies to work together to make better, cleaner and safer drugs,” explains Mørtz.
ANALYTICAL METHOD WITH GREAT BENEFITS
MS-based HCP analysis is already being used in the development of all types of biologics including the new mRNA vaccines and cell and gene therapies targeting an array of diseases, such as diabetes, Parkinson’s, and AIDS. According to Bryant McLaughlin, an experienced CMC executive in the biopharmaceutical industry, this analytical method is a huge benefit.
“Even the best of the conventional methods can only measure around 80% and 90% of the impurities that could potentially be in a drug. There is a risk that the authorities might reject a drug due to the lack of documentation of impurities, which is why some drug manufacturers have never been able to release their product to the market. The opportunity to use mass spectrometry-based protein analysis as documentation for drug purity is therefore a great leap forward for all companies struggling with the limitations of earlier methods,” explains McLaughlin. •
Alphalyse – alphalyse.com
Tips and tricks to master shrink sleeve labelling
Discover the power of shrink sleeve labels and how they can transform your product’s packaging. From installation to overcoming challenges, this article will provide you with all the information you need to know.
Shrink sleeve labels are a popular choice for packaging consumer goods due to their versatility and visual impact. They offer several advantages, such as 360° coverage, which allows for maximum branding and messaging opportunities.
These labels can accommodate complex shapes and contours, making them suitable for various types of packaging. Shrink sleeve labels also offer tamper-evidence.
PVC, PET and OPS are the most common materials used for shrink sleeves. Each material has its own unique properties, such as shrinkage rate and transparency, which should be considered when choosing the label material.
THE INSTALLATION PROCESS
Installing shrink sleeve labels involves a series of steps to ensure proper application. The process begins with preparing the label reel. The reel is loaded onto a label unwinder, which feeds the labels from sleever onto the containers.
Label feeding is a critical step in the installation process. Proper label feeding ensures that the labels are
This can be achieved through proper tension control and adjustment of the label feeding mechanism.
Dase-Sing's sleeve machines utilise German IGUS rollers to ensure high quality and accuracy.
"Efficient label feeding is essential for maximising productivity and minimising waste "
It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for the installation process
to ensure successful application of shrink sleeve labels. Regular maintenance of the machine is also necessary.
The installation process of shrink sleeve labels involves preparing the label reel, feeding the labels onto the containers, and applying heat to shrink the labels. Following proper procedures and maintaining the equipment are important.
OPTIMAL LABEL FEEDING FOR EFFICIENCY
Efficient label feeding is essential for maximising productivity and minimising waste in shrink sleeve labelling. Ensure proper tension control so that the labels are fed smoothly and without any slack or tightness. This can be achieved by adjusting the tension settings on the label sleeve machine.
Use high-quality label materials to reduce the risk of feeding issues such as tearing or jamming. Regularly clean and maintain the label feeding mechanism. Dust, debris, or adhesive residue can accumulate on the label feeding mechanism over time, leading to feeding problems. Regular cleaning and maintenance of the mechanism help prevent these issues and ensure smooth label feeding.
Regularly inspecting the label feeding system for any worn-out or damaged parts can help identify and address potential issues.
By implementing these optimisation tips, businesses can enhance label feeding efficiency and improve overall productivity in shrink sleeve labeling. Dase-Sing provides label unwinders that can install up to eight rolls of labels to increase work efficiency, depending on the label size.
TIPS TO MINIMISE DOWNTIME
Following these troubleshooting tips can help manufacturers to minimise downtime and maintain a smooth production flow in shrink sleeve labelling:
1. Regularly inspect and maintain the label sleeve machine to ensure smooth operation. Lubricate moving parts (bearings, axis etc.), check for loose connections, and replace any worn-out or damaged components (driving rubber wheel).
2. Properly trained operators can quickly identify and resolve common issues
that may cause downtime. Provide training on equipment operation, troubleshooting techniques and best practices for label feeding and application.
3. Keep spare parts on hand to quickly replace any faulty components and minimise downtime.
" Properly trained operators can quickly identify and resolve common issues that may cause downtime"
4. Monitor label inventory. Running out of labels during production can cause significant downtime.
HOW TO OVERCOME CHALLENGES
Shrink sleeve labelling presents its own set of challenges. These include:
1. Wrinkling or bubbling of the shrink sleeve can occur during the shrinking process. Adjusting the heat settings,
ensuring proper heat distribution, and maintaining consistent tension during label application can help minimise defects.
2. Achieving precise label alignment can be challenging, especially for containers with irregular shapes or contours. Using a label applicator with adjustable guides and sensors can help ensure accurate label placement.
3. Shrink sleeve labelling may have certain speed limitations due to the time required for heat application and label shrinking. Optimising the production line layout and implementing efficient workflow processes can help maximise production speed.
By addressing these challenges headon and implementing appropriate strategies, manufacturers can overcome obstacles in shrink sleeve labelling and achieve successful results. •
Dase-Sing – www.dasesing.com
Bringing global print solutions to South Africa
Driven by the profitability of its customers, NSI Label imports, sells and supports digital printing and finishing equipment, software and services to South Africa’s label and packaging industry.
NSI Label’s management team has a collective experience of over 40 years in importing and supplying the South African market with specialised manufacturing equipment. Together with its trade partners in Brazil, Japan, China, Taiwan, Germany, Korea and the USA, the business has been able to bring to market innovative, superior manufacturing equipment, usually at highly attractive prices.
The range of products from NSI Label cater to diverse markets and requirements, from equipment for print users to print resellers looking for either roll-to-roll or sheet-fed applications. Its SMART equipment incorporates CCD camera scanning technology coupled with AI assistance to improve production efficiency and reduce common costs associated with job changeovers.
AN AWARD-WINNING SUPPLIER
NSI Label was recently awarded back-toback African Excellence Awards for the Best Digital Printing Solutions Company in South Africa and for exceptional
installations of digital label and packaging systems across Southern Africa. The business is one of a few suppliers that understands that its success is directly linked to the successful implementation and support of the systems it represents and sells.
"NSI Label was recently awarded back-to-back African Excellence Awards"
“We prioritise customer efficiency in the operation of the equipment, accurate costing and technical problem solving,” says Shawn Bezuidenhout, NSI Label’s managing director. “We not only offer operator training, but also industry advice based on our experience. We understand that many of our
customers are not familiar with the label and packaging function, and it is our responsibility to empower them with knowledge to ensure they can continue to focus on their core business. This is because digitally produced packaging should complement a customer’s product offering and not be a distraction.”
NSI Label’s secret lies in dealing directly with the equipment manufacturers and maintaining a tangible, personal relationship with them. Representatives from the business visit the manufacturing plants
and consult with production and design engineers on a regular basis.
“We do not envisage that we can offer quality products and services to our clients while merely maintaining vague virtual relationships with suppliers,” Shawn adds.
COMPETITIVE, QUALITY SOLUTIONS FOR AFRICA
People often don't realise that many top European and American equipment brands are manufactured in Asia. NSI Label’s direct relationships with these manufacturers means that the business can regularly offer South Africans machines that are manufactured in the same factories as well-known global brands by the same team of production engineers, yet at a fraction of the cost of the known brand.
"Digitally produced packaging should complement a customer’s product offering"
He explains: “We personally visit the production facilities of our manufacturers, and we regularly attend leading international trade exhibitions to ensure that we remain abreast of world trends and cutting-edge technologies.”
The NSI Label head office is based in Midrand, Gauteng, and the team is available throughout Sub-Saharan Africa for onsite technical support for its equipment.
While the company is making great strides in the market offering competitive equipment prices and production costs for its clients, NSI Label’s primary focus remains service delivery.
“We are one of the only local distribution companies that sends our senior technical staff abroad to be trained onsite at manufacturing facilities to ensure the best possible local technical support for our valued customers,” says Shawn. •
Did you know?
NSI Label – www.labelandpack.africa
NSI Label is participating in Propak Africa 2025! Taking place from 11 to 14 March at Johannesburg Expo Centre, Propak Africa offers a gateway to packaging, processing and sustainability developments. Meet the NSI Label team at the trade show and explore their latest offerings in digital label printing equipment.
South African scientists shine at IFSCC Congress 2024
Three South African scientists recently attended the 34 th IFSCC Congress in Brazil. Their participation highlighted South Africa’s commitment to advancing cosmetic science, focusing on sustainable and inclusive beauty innovations.
The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress, which took place from 14 to 17 October, provided a crucial global platform for scientific exchange.
Set against the stunning backdrop of the Iguazu Falls, the congress emphasised the necessity of operating within planetary boundaries, while the programme included presentations on cutting-edge developments in biotechnology. Key themes such as biodiversity in cosmetics, sustainable technologies and cognitive approaches to promoting beauty experiences dominated the agenda, providing a rich learning landscape for all participants.
The vibrant atmosphere of the congress reflected the diversity and global nature of the cosmetics industry. It offered an invaluable opportunity for delegates to network and share ideas, fostering a collaborative spirit essential for future innovation.
VOICES OF INNOVATION
Dr Nicole Vorster, formulation science programme coordinator at InnoVenton, Nelson Mandela University, was among the three South Africans who attended the congress. She found the experience exceptionally inspiring.
Dr Vorster presented groundbreaking research on optimising nanoliposomes using upcycled olive pomace extracts. This is the work of her MSc student, Chrizé van den Heever. Dr Vorster also engaged with other experts during the congress to explore potential collaborations. Her commitment to sustainable innovation, underscored by advanced microfluidic
techniques, showcased South Africa’s capability to contribute significantly to global advancements in cosmetic science.
Nasreen Matthews, clinical and physics scientist at L’Oréal Sub Saharan Africa, captivated with her insightful poster on skin glow for African women – a topic not widely explored but deeply relevant to consumers’ needs in Africa. The desire for glowing skin has gained momentum worldwide, so understanding the perception of ‘glow’ across ethnicities is essential for creating inclusive and effective skincare solutions. This study addressed a notable gap in literature by exploring the terminology used, product routines and specific skin kinetic shifts desired by African women seeking glowing face and body skin. Sharing L’Oréal’s knowledge not only ensures that African skin is represented, but that it is truly understood and catered for.
Adding further distinction, Kerry-Anne Viljoen, R&D chemist at Environ Skin Care, represented South Africa at the IFSCC Council Meeting where she met the IFSCC praesidium. Her notable achievement of receiving the Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Essay Prize highlighted
Viljoen’s academic excellence and innovative thinking. She was presented with this award during the congress’ opening ceremony.
KEY HIGHLIGHTS AND LEARNINGS
Groundbreaking ideas and leading scientific information were discussed during the congress, providing a rich tapestry of learning opportunities for the South African delegation.
Breakthroughs in biotechnology took centre stage, with presenters sharing innovative approaches to sustainable manufacturing and product development processes that minimise environmental footprints.
Sustainability workshop
Kerry-Anne Viljoen
Viljoen said she thoroughly enjoyed the insightful talks on topics such as formulating cosmetics with sustainability in mind, peptides that rival retinol, and optimising sunscreen formulations for biodegradability.
The social events, infused with the beauty of Brazilian culture, provided a platform for vibrant cultural exchange and international networking, potentially fostering collaborations beyond the conference.
TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE
The congress underscored the growing need for authenticity in sustainable practices, warning against the perils of greenwashing. Through spirited discussions, the introduction of the EcoBeautyScore Consortium offered new insights into sustainability scoring, though its adaptation in South Africa remains under review. Reflecting on these insights, Dr Vorster emphasised the importance of embracing a holistic understanding of sustainability which extends beyond ‘natural’ ingredients to include socially responsible practices.
"The congress underscored the growing need for authenticity in sustainable practices"
Viljoen noted the value of engaging platforms like IFSCC – it not only expanded her professional network but also provided unique insights into sustainability challenges faced by her international peers. These interactions reinforced Viljoen's understanding of cosmetics as not just products, but as integral components of a sustainable ecosystem.
INSPIRING
THE NEXT GENERATION
The participation of Dr Vorster, Matthews and Viljoen in the IFSCC Congress is a beacon for the future of South African cosmetic science, challenging young scientists to innovate within the industry. Their experiences in Brazil promise to inspire more South African researchers to engage in international dialogues, ensuring that our country’s standing in global cosmetic science remains robust. The IFSCC Congress 2024 mirrored a future where sustainable practices and scientific advancements intersect harmoniously. These young scientists have planted the seeds for tomorrow’s breakthroughs, crafting a future where South Africa’s cosmetic industry continues to flourish on the world stage. •
Did you know?
The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) is affiliated with the IFSCC. Dr Nicole Vorster, Nasreen Matthews and Kerry-Anne Viljoen are all Coschem members.
