SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
January 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 1
www.pharmacos.co.za
Reveal beauty with
Sensient
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Hair care hotspots to watch in 2018 New pigments and product ideas for colour cosmetics How to control safety and hygiene hazards
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Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
January 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 1
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
BASF partners with Caring4Girls Kosmet database relaunched with free access New body beautifier ingredient from Sederma L’Oréal honours Africa’s women in science Symrise expands rainforest sustainability project
12 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s new in South Africa
16
Ultra Violet
enters the world of beauty
14 EVENTS
18
Highlights from Rotolabel’s pharma open day Reasons to attend the P&C Review conference
18 COLOUR COSMETICS
How to achieve super pigmented formulations Shimmer, sparkle and illuminate with Merck
22 HAIR CARE
Vytrus Biotech addresses hair loss The promise of stronger, healthier hair Focus on trends, scalp care and curl liberation Formulations for new hair care goals in 2018 CIM goes SLES-free with anionic surfactants
Are manufacturers ready for
Industry 4.0?
35
35 INDUSTRY TALK
Are you ready for Industry 4.0?
36 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS
Direct compression and paediatric tablet production API taste-masking with Beneo’s GalenIQ
39 SAFETY & HYGIENE
Introducing SafeAir UV air purifiers Take a proactive approach with Rentokil | Volum January 2018
RICAN SOUTH AF
Better protection for
trendsetting designs
46
41
e 44 | Number
cos.co.za www.pharma
Rotolabel acquirnesew two companies
1
44 Labelling Rotolabel acquires two new businesses Brand protection solutions from Uniprint
47 Industry Talk Up-to-date recycling figures from Plastics|SA
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS The latest news from Coschem
and SAAFFI records South Africa an increase incling plastics recy
Sorbet Man bags a Gold Pack award
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM
Trends to watch in 2018
F
EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas
orecasters are saying that naturals,
Probably one of the biggest categories
male grooming, protection and anti-
in our country, hair care continues to be
pollution, masks and the microbiome
a bumper feature in P C Review. Go to
will be among the biggest influencers
page 22 now and discover everything
in 2018. The naturals trend is set to have new
from plant peptides for hair re-growth and
focal points this year with biotechnology,
a new bond multiplier technology to skin
sustainable sourcing and the true benefits
care actives for scalp care and pollution
of natural ingredients at the heart of
protection for hair.
marketing messages to educate and enlighten consumers. Male grooming is fast becoming the
Excipients are covered in this month’s pharmaceutical focus. Turn to page 36 to find out more about the University of
category to watch with David Beckham’s
Barcelona’s research on a particular direct
recent unveiling of his first global grooming
compression lactose grade and how it
brand, HOUSE 99. This complete collection of
contributes to the successful production of
13 innovative products conquers every style
tablets for paediatric patients. We also look
ambition and was created by Beckham in
at a smart taste-masking ingredient that
partnership with L’Oréal Luxe.
helps ensure patient compliance.
Masks are set to become more
In the regular PACKAGING REVIEW
Contributors: Ricard Canadell, García Encarna, O. Expósito, A. Gallego, S. Laplana, Kim MacCallum, M. Mas, Montse Miñarro, Anna Nardi, Josep Negre, Isaac Nofrerías, M. Perez, Pilar Pérez, T. Ruiz, Marc Suñé, Josep Tico, R. Vallecillo ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION
sophisticated this year with products
section on page 41, Aarifah Nosarka predicts
targeting specific concerns. Innovative
a bigger, better and improved industry with
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za
examples include micro-channeling patches
recent acquisitions in the labelling and
PUBLISHING TEAM
and self-dissolving micro-needle masks,
printing sectors. This includes Rotolabel’s
General Manager: Dev Naidoo
which are said to feature tiny micro-needles
end-2017 purchase of both S&N Labels and
formed from hyaluronic acid.
Bartrans featured on page 44.
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
Colour trends also have a significant
Here’s to a happy and healthy 2018 for all
impact on the industry and the colour
our readers, advertisers and associates. We
cosmetics segment in particular. On page
look forward to covering your developments
16 in this edition of Pharmaceutical
this year so keep in touch by sending an
Cosmetic Review, Sensient Cosmetic
e-mail to abby.vorster@newmediapub.
Technologies discusses how the Pantone
co.za or aarifah.nosarka@
Color of the Year 2018, 18-3838 Ultra Violet,
newmediapub.co.za.
will influence new product development. Our colour cosmetics feature on page
Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR
Enjoy the read!
Aileen Lamb
18 also takes a look at new makeup must
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
haves and the ingredients, pigments and
Bridget McCarney
formulation technologies to produce
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
these products.
John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University
Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Top speakers confirmed for the P C Review 2018
Beauty Trends& Innovations Conference
• Eight beauty and personal care experts in one inspiring day • One unmissable session on how to develop and sustain a social media strategy. Other topics to be presented at the conference: · Creativity in the workplace to drive innovation by John Knowlton – MD, Cosmetic Solutions · Compliance in the South African cosmetics industry by Percy Sibanda – scientific & regulatory affairs advisor, L’Oréal SA · Formulating for Africa’s millennials by Leandri van der Wat – R&D manager, Optiphi Date: Thursday, 22 February 2018 Time: 8:30am until 16:00 Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa Book your seat today @ R995 per person including VAT You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers. Send an email to Natalie.DaSilva@newmediapub.co.za for more information
NEWS
BASF
partners with Caring4Girls
FOCUSED ON KEEPING girls in school, BASF South Africa recently presented a donation of R54 000 to the Imbumba Foundation towards its Caring4Girls sanitary towel distribution initiative. Throughout 2017, BASF employees at different sites collected sanitary pads for schoolgirls as part of an internal fundraising campaign. To match employees’ efforts, BASF added a cash donation of R54 000. A neighbouring township school, Tembisa West Secondary School, was identified by Imbumba Foundation to receive this donation. A presentation ceremony was held at the school where employees from the company and members of the foundation handed over sanitary towels to the young girls. The cash donation will be used to supply the girls with sanitary towels over the next year. Employee volunteering, coupled with BASF South Africa’s CSR programme, is an integral component of the company’s operations throughout the country. ‘Social commitment is an important cornerstone of social cohesion. Our partnership with Imbumba Foundation and the Caring4Girls programme plays a pivotal role in how we can sustainably uplift and contribute to the communities in which we operate,’ says Benoit Fricard, MD of BASF South Africa. Richard Mabaso, founder of Imbumba Foundation, adds: ‘Through the Caring4Girls programme, we are trying to provide a solution to problems that girls from across the world face daily. Right now, over 62 million girls are not in school because they cannot afford feminine hygiene products. On average, two million girls in South Africa will miss five days of school every month. Without hygiene supplies, girls stop going to school during their period and eventually fall behind and drop out. Our partnership with BASF will ensure that we can reach out to more young girls to ensure we assist to create more inspired, confident future leaders.’ BASF employees, Laraine Kruger (far left) and Lebo Motsele (second from the right) hand over a donation cheque to Richard Mabaso (far right) and learners from the Tembisa West Secondary School
PHARMA CERTIFICATION FOR CATHAY PACIFIC THE AIRLINE HAS become the first in Hong Kong to be awarded IATA CEIV pharma certification, which is a globally recognised pharmaceutical product handling accreditation. The certification underlines Cathay Pacific’s capabilities in the treatment and transportation of high-value, time-sensitive and temperature-controlled pharmaceutical products with speed, consistency and efficiency. In collaboration with aviation industry stakeholders and regulators, IATA created the Centre of Excellence for Independent Validators (CEIV) to help organisations involved in the air cargo supply chain achieve pharmaceutical handling excellence. CEIV pharma certification addresses the industry’s needs for safety, security, compliance and efficiency in the transportation of pharma products. It seeks to minimise product loss attributed to handling and environmental factors during transport. The certification encompasses, and in some cases, exceeds existing pharmaceutical standards and guidelines such as the European Union’s Good Distribution Practice and the World Health Organization (Annex 5) Good Distribution Practices for Pharmaceutical Products. Cathay Pacific’s South African country manager, Asish Kapur, comments: ‘It is a great honour to have been awarded IATA CEIV pharma certification, which recognises our commitment to our pharmaceutical customers. Cathay Pacific Cargo adheres to the highest operating standards and this certification highlights our capabilities in handling these precious, time-sensitive and often life-saving shipments.’ The airline’s CEIV pharma certification is set to positively impact the freight-forwarding and pharmaceutical industries in South Africa and internationally.
NAGOYA PROTOCOL FIRST FOR PROVITAL THIS GLOBAL PROTOCOL’S aim is to implement fair and equitable sharing of benefits arising from the use of genetic resources, thereby contributing to the conservation and sustainable use of biodiversity. Provital Group (Provital), represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is the first cosmetics ingredients supplier worldwide to achieve the internationally recognised certificate of compliance (IRCC) at the Access and Benefit-Sharing Clearing-House (ABSCH). The IRCC is an official document confirming the company fulfills Nagoya Protocol requirements. The R&D project that led to Provital gaining the certificate evaluates the cosmetics application of traditional plants from México and will guarantee a fair supply chain for those plants found to have cosmetics activity. The project will be carried out in collaboration with various communities of farmers from the State of Querétaro and with the Universidad Autónoma de Querétaro, in México. This is a major achievement recognising the best practices of Provital, regarding respecting biodiversity and sustainability and in complying with the Access and BenefitSharing guidelines of the Nagoya Protocol. The accolade is also thanks to the company’s great collaboration with the Mexican authorities of Semarnat.
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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
NEWS
CANCER VACCINE CLINICAL TRIALS ON THE RISE IN ASIA-PACIFIC ACCORDING TO A recent study by GlobalData, a leading data and analytics company, the North America and Asia-Pacific regions had the highest number of cancer vaccine clinical trials initiated between 2007 and 2016. Considering that many of the top companies in the pharmaceutical industry are headquartered in North America, it will come as no surprise that this region had the highest percentage of cancer vaccine clinical trials at 47 percent. However, a spokesperson from the healthcare analysts team at GlobalData says: ‘With the recent news of the Chinese government’s proposal to adopt a new regulatory process for drug approvals, thus opening up the market to big pharma, Asia-Pacific’s second highest share of 33 percent can only
Cancer vaccine trials by global region
increase in the coming years.’ Europe stands at third place with 16 percent of all cancer vaccine trials initiated over the 10-year period. The South and
Central American Region and the Middle East and African regions take fourth place each with two percent respectively.
Kosmet database relaunched with free access THE INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC)
All 83 000+ abstracts can be searched by anyone. To download an abstract for
has relaunched its Kosmet database – the only global database populated
free the user must register with Kosmet and indicate the cosmetic science society
exclusively with cosmetic science abstracts. The IFSCC is offering free access to
to which they belong.
Kosmet until 1 November 2018. Commenting from Seoul, South Korea, IFSCC president, Dr Peter Kang, says:
‘The relaunch of Kosmet is one example of how the IFSCC is trying to bring additional science to more scientists around the world,’ comments Dr Frédéric
‘The new Kosmet interface will make the Kosmet cosmetic science database
Leroy, Paris-based chair of the IFSCC
much easier to use. Many scientists told us the old Kosmet interface wasn’t
Science Committee. ‘In the coming
user-friendly – and we listened. We invite all cosmetic scientists to try the new
months, we will be adding papers and
Kosmet today.’
posters presented at IFSCC congresses
Thanks to financial support from corporate sponsors Greentech and Pechoin,
and conferences, so Kosmet will
the IFSCC is able to offer Kosmet on a complimentary basis from now until
become an even more valuable
1 November 2018. The offer is available to all individual members of IFSCC
resource over time.’
member societies – over 16 000 cosmetic scientists worldwide. This means fully
Visit www.kosmet.com for more
paid up members of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists – Coschem – will have free
information and to register for
access to Kosmet during the aforementioned period.
complimentary access.
Helping you lay a strong foundation within the international market CECOSA plays a leading role in assisting South African members in taking product to international markets. We aim to assist and develop business entities to compete and be successful. Our unique offering means we are able to address our members needs and help realise numerous opportunities in our sector. Contact: Theresa Möller, Executive Director +27 (0)11 450 1506 • theresa@cecosa.co.za • www.cecosa.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
7
NEWS
MERCK AWARDED FOR LIGHT PROTECTION CONCEPT
COMMITTED TO NATURALLY DERIVED INGREDIENTS VANTAGE SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS (Vantage) continues its commitment to providing naturally better solutions to the personal care market with the development and launch of its first Bio-Ethylene Oxide-based product.
Image courtesy of Sepawa
Developing more sustainably produced raw materials is one of the major strategies of Vantage for future growth. With this new bio-based feedstock, the company has taken one of its key, proven ingredients and developed a green, non-petroleum based and truly sustainably produced ingredient. ‘Continuing with our strategy to develop more sustainable ingredients, this launch further signifies our commitment to our green and sustainable platform of product development,’ says Patrick Brueggman, senior vice THE GLOBAL SCIENCE and technology company received the 2017 Sepawa Innovation Award for its advanced light protection concept at the recent Sepawa congress in Berlin, Germany. Advanced light protection is in line with the latest findings on sunlightinduced mechanisms of skin damage and skin ageing. It also meets
president and GM at Vantage. The company is dedicated to using sustainable and socially responsible practices across all business units, affirming its promise to being a reliable global supplier. Launched in October 2017, Liponic Bio-EG-1 is a sustainably produced
the needs of the cosmetics industry for light protection solutions that
multi-functional ingredient derived from natural and sustainable
can be easily incorporated into formulations and offer customers an
feedstocks. RSPO grade glycerin and ethylene oxide, which are derived
additional benefit.
from corn ethanol, are utilised to produce this material.
The concept is the result of researching additional application possibilities for well-established functional Merck products for innovative skin protection. It combines Eusolex T-PRO and RonaFlair Balance Blue, with the discovery of new light protection properties of the two products. The discovery relates to the latest findings on infrared-A radiation (IRA) of sunlight and the short-wave, high-energy, blue-violet parts
NEW BODY BEAUTIFIER FOR IRRESISTIBLE SKIN
of the visible light (HEVL). IR-A and HEVL penetrate deep into the skin,
SEDERMA, A CRODA company, offers the beautifying benefits of Spain’s
where they cause lasting damage due to the production of reactive
Costa Blanca pink salt lake through a new biotechnological body care
oxygen species (ROS). Skin becomes dry and wrinkled, loses its
active. Hydronesis addresses the most common skin imperfections
elasticity, is easily irritated and reddened. Besides IR-A radiation, natural
and has been demonstrated to reduce the prevalent yet unknown
HEVL radiation and the radiation emitted from flat screens are said to
keratosis pilaris and post-waxing redness. It also offers significant skin
accelerate skin ageing.
moisturisation, leaving it incredibly soft and attractive.
In combination, Eusolex T-PRO and RonaFlair Balance Blue
By empowering the natural process of skin renewal and re-establishing
significantly reduce the transmission of damaging IR-A and HEVL
the hydrolipidic homeostasis, Hydronesis offers a holistic body care
radiation. ‘With our concept, we are offering manufacturers an
approach, which meets consumers’ expectations for skin beauty, softness
innovative tool for skin care cosmetics with state-of-the-art light
and comfort in just four weeks.
protection,’ says Karl-Christian Gallert, head of cosmetics at Merck. ‘The combination of the two products allows the amount of IR-A and HEVL radiation to be significantly reduced, providing the surface of the skin with an effective protective screen. This makes it possible to minimise damaging influences on and in the skin, while creating a concealing effect at the same time.’ As an inorganic UV filter with radical-scavenging properties, Eusolex T-PRO neutralises the damaging ROS. RonaFlair Balance Blue balances yellowish skin tones and gives the complexion a fresh and healthy appearance. In combination, they offer the cosmetics industry diverse possibilities for innovative skin care products with lightprotective properties.
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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
This natural ingredient is obtained from an eco-designed process. Microscopic images show the efficacy of Hydronesis in reducing Keratosis pilaris after four weeks’ application
NEWS
Honouring women in science THE 2017 EDITION of the L’Oréal-UNESCO
and those who were celebrated last
Doctoral regional fellowship of €10 000
For Women in Science (FWIS) sub-Saharan
year. ‘The world continues to face
towards her project on the anticancer
Africa ceremony celebrated 14 young
unprecedented challenges such as
and antimicrobial activity of Moringa
female scientists on 8 November at The
climate change, water scarcity, illnesses
oleifera and Sutherlandia frutescens and
Venue Greenpark in Johannesburg.
and food security among other issues.
their nanoparticles.
As part of the programme launched
Only a shared, controlled science, at
Augustina Frimpong from the University
in 2010, female scientists from across the
the service of the world’s population, is
of Ghana was one of the women
region were honoured for their work and
able to meet the major challenges of the
scientists who received the Doctoral
impact in the scientific field. Their fields of
twenty-first century, and our researchers
fellowship of €5 000 towards her project
research vary across different disciplines
are the proof.’
on the analysis of T cell receptor diversity
and address key global issues.
Charlette Tiloke from Durban University
Sandeep Rai, MD of L’Oréal South Africa highlighted the power of women scientists
in paediatric malaria patients.
of Technology is among the group of women scientists who received the Post-
has reached many women across the continent. Image courtesy of Xavier Photography
The scientists were presented with the fellowships on 8 November at The Venue Greenpark during a prestigious awards ceremony
The L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in Science sub-Saharan Africa programme
CLARIANT ACHIEVES MAJOR SUSTAINABILITY MILESTONE MORE THAN 150 of Clariant’s products
to announce that already 159 of our
and solutions across all business units
products now carry our sustainability
3000 (BU ICS), pumpable silk
have now been awarded the EcoTain
excellence label.’
lustre agents for the cosmetics
label for sustainability excellence. At
Many of the new products added are
• Perlogen SF 117 and Perlogen SF
industry, mainly used
the quarterly EcoTain panel meeting, 10
the result of internal efforts to improve
in rinse off products,
more products were approved taking the
product performance to respond better
like shampoos or
total number to 159. They were presented
to customer’s needs and broad mega
following their strong sustainability
trends among consumers. The innovation
performance during their screening as
process increasingly involves closer
Nipaguard SCA (BU
part of the Portfolio Value Program (PVP).
collaboration with customers to move
ICS), broad spectrum
over to a more sustainable product that
antimicrobial agents
business growth and needed to stay
can future-proof their offering, allowing
used in blends,
competitive,’ says Joachim Krueger,
them to differentiate in the market.
designed for the
‘Sustainability is increasingly driving
head of corporate sustainability and
EcoTain products can be found in
shower gels • Nipaguard SCL and
preservation of cosmetics
regulatory affairs (CSRA). ‘With EcoTain
every business unit and for a broad
and toiletries, with a high
we showcase products and solutions
variety of markets and applications. In
renewable content above
that offer exceptional value to our
fact, 86 are products from BU Industrial
customers, society and the environment.
and Consumer Specialties (ICS), which
EcoTain products have a significantly
was the forerunner in developing the
blend designed for supporting the
higher growth rate and are also more
idea of an EcoTain label.
preservation strategy in formulations
profitable than the rest of the product
At the panel meeting, the
60 percent • Velsan SPA (BU ICS), is a perfume
and for use in a wide range of
portfolio as assessed under the PVP
following products from ICS business
cosmetics and toiletries. The product
financial review, thereby creating
unit were recognised for their
is active at every pH and provides an
substantial value for Clariant. I am proud
sustainability excellence:
alternative to using Phenoxyethanol.
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
9
NEWS
Symrise’s three year project is focused on improving the value chain for farmers in the Amazon region
FACTORY EFFICIENCIES DRIVE ADCOCK’S TURNOVER INCREASE AN EXCEPTIONAL INCREASE in trading profit is the highlight of Adcock Ingram’s year-end results. Despite the continuing economic downturn and pressure on consumer spending, a satisfying trading performance was achieved with improved performances across all commercial divisions of the business. ‘The positive results reflect our continuing investment in sales, marketing and brand innovation and our focus on customer service, complemented by production and operational efficiencies,’ says company CEO, Andy Hall. A seven percent increase in turnover to R5.936 million rendered an improved gross profit which moved as a percentage of sales to 37.8 percent for the current year from 36.6 percent in 2016. An improved product sales mix, under a relatively stable Rand, good inventory
SUSTAINABLE COSMETICS FROM THE RAINFOREST
management and factory efficiencies were the major contributors to this achievement. Well controlled operating expenses contributed to a 20 percent improvement in trading profit, which increased to R724 million (2016 – R606 million). All commercial divisions showed an improvement in trading profit, with the prescription, consumer and hospital divisions’
SYMRISE SUPPORTS SUSTAINABLE agriculture in the Amazon region and launched a three-year project in October 2017 which will help farmers improve their products and to diversify. To do so, the company has partnered up with the Brazilian cosmetics manufacturer, Natura and
growth all above 20 percent. Headline earnings for the year from continuing operations increased to R513.7 million compared to R376.4 million in the previous year. ‘A pleasing feature is the year-end net cash figure of R334.5 million
the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ). The goal of this
compared to a net debt figure of R311.2 million at the end of the prior year,
project, alongside protection of the local rainforest, is to significantly
marking an improvement of R645.7 million,’ Hall concludes.
improve value creation for the local farmers and cooperatives. The Amazon region is known for its biodiversity. Up to 80 percent of the flora and fauna of Brazil can be found here. It stretches across almost
the past decades. Symrise wants to counteract this and has launched a
Wacker expands production in China
programme, supported by the governmental department for development
TO STRENGTHEN ITS market position in the country, Wacker Chemie is expanding its production
aid, to protect the Brazilian rainforest.
capacities for silicone and polymer products in China.
two-thirds of Brazil – for now. But continued deforestation and the not yet sustainable use of natural resources are threatening this unique marvel of nature. Large swaths of natural vegetation have been lost in
The idea is to restore the natural vegetation along the Trans-
A total investment of €20 million has been earmarked for these expansion projects, including
Amazonian Highway and in the Northeastern Pará and Ponta do Albuna
its solid silicone rubber manufacturing facility in Zhangjiagang, its production capacity for vinyl
regions through changed cultivation of the land and reforestation
acetate-ethylene (VAE) copolymer dispersions at its plant in Nanjing and improvements to its
measures. The farmers and cooperatives will learn how to cultivate the
technical centre in Shanghai. This includes new R&D labs for silicone fluids and resins, pyrogenic
land more effectively with the help of the latest technology. This will
silica and room-temperature-curing silicone elastomers. A food application lab for products for
increase their yields and allow them to stabilise their livelihoods through
the Wacker Biosolutions division is also scheduled.
a higher income. The result is sustainable for both the people and the environment. In the past, sustainable methods were not sufficiently competitive
Most of the funds will be used for technical measures to eliminate production bottlenecks and to expand capacity. ‘Greater China is one of our most important business regions. With annual sales of well
to offer the local farmers an economic alternative to the extensive
over €1 billion, it is Wacker’s largest single market and stands for one fourth of group sales,’
cultivation and deforestation of the forests. Cooperatives that have used
says CEO, Rudolf Staudigl. The demand for silicones and polymer products in China has been
this type of cultivation tend to focus on individual products or try to make
growing steadily for years. However, due to high plant capacity utilisation, additional volumes are
parts of the manufacturing process sustainable. The Symrise project aims
almost impossible.
to make the entire value chain profitable. The 14 partners in the local
Paul Lindblad, president of Wacker Greater China, also announced an expansion of the
cooperatives, which more than 1 000 families depend on, should also be
company’s R&D facilities in Shanghai, where it already operates a technical centre. By the end
able to increase their sales by 20 percent and gain certification from the
of 2018, Shanghai will have additional silicone labs for the development of new products and
Union for Ethical Biotrade. At the same time, the partners are supporting
applications in areas such as consumer care, coatings
the reuse of materials by developing new products from side streams.
and construction.
Symrise is involved in this project in order to protect the rainforest,
‘In recent years, Wacker has further strengthened its R&D
but it is also connected to the expansion of existing business models.
cooperation with Chinese customers to develop sustainable
The changed cultivation of the land also helps to build sustainable value
products and solutions suitable for the Chinese market,’
creation in the cosmetics industry. The company combines protecting
Lindblad comments. Earlier in 2017, Wacker had already
biodiversity with researching raw materials for scent and care – in
doubled its local synthesis capacity for polymer dispersions
harmony with nature.
needed for research and development.
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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Wacker’s expansion plans in China include boosted analytical capabilities
2018
February
DIARY 2018
ood f
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
RE V IE W
WHAT'S ON IN
SOUTH AFRICAN
Society of Cosmetic Chemists AGM
8 February Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg www.coschem.co.za
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P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
11
STREET A silky veil of
Detox with
Aloe Ferox Cape Town based Aloe Unique has
expanded its line of aloe skin care products and health supplements with the new Aloe Detox tablets for immune support and revitalisation. The tablets are based on the Cape Aloe Ferox plant ingredient, harvested by locals using ancient methods. The brand also offers a range of sun, skin and body care products, which are all sold online at www.aloeunique.co.za.
fruity aromas BioNike 15 Fruit Xsense Multi-Sensorial Oil is rich in antioxidant ingredients as well as omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids. The product has fruity, fresh notes of white flower and is formulated with a 15 percent concentration of oils sourced from watermelon, oranges, strawberries, peaches, sweet cherries and apricots to moisturise and protect skin and hair. Xsense retails for R230 and is available exclusively at DisChem stores nationwide.
Logical
skin care
Launched in December, SKNlogic
New feminine wipes Comfitex, a trusted panty liner brand
Multi Active Lotion is formulated
produced by NSP Unsgaard, has launched
with a high concentration of
feminine wipes in a 24s-pack size for
alpha and beta hydroxy acids
women of all ages. The wipes are specially
in a lightweight emulsion. The
designed to help maintain a healthy pH
combination provides an intensive
balance and perfect for keeping clean and
treatment for increased cell
fresh all day. Comfitex Feminine Wipes
turnover to restore skin’s suppleness, clarity and texture. The product
are ideal for sensitive skin and can be used
addresses hyperpigmentation,
during menstruation, when travelling and
dehydration and problem skin
after exercise. The wipes retail for R19.99 and
issues and is available in salons
are available at Shoprite Checkers in the Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal.
and spas nationwide.
Sun milk for
delicate skin
Pure Beginnings Baby & Kids Sensitive Milk SPF
12
10 Minute tan
Vita Liberata has launched the new
10 minute tan, which retails for R995 for 150mℓ. Bursting with rosehip oil, Sederma’s Matrixyl 3000 and neroli oil, the product
50+ offers high broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sun
delivers a glorious, natural tan whilst
protection. It is water resistant and manufactured
stimulating the production of collagen to
with 100 percent natural mineral filters, guaranteed
plump and firm the skin. It is absorbed and
free from nanoparticles. Although it is designed
rinsed off after 10 minutes and has staying
for babies and kids, the product is suitable for the
power when swimming or sweating. A natural
whole family, especially for people with sensitive
medium colour develops over six to eight
skin. The sun milk retails for R249.99 and is available
hours after application with the additional anti-
online (www.purebeginnings.co.za) and at select
ageing benefits. Visit www.vitaliberata.co.za for
retailers nationwide.
more information.
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Launched a new product in 2017/18?
ENTRIES NOW OPEN
Contact Natalie Da Silva: natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281
EVENTS
A PASSION for precise pharma packaging In November, Rotolabel – the labels division of Bidvest Data Print and Packaging – hosted its inaugural pharmaceutical open day to showcase to key customers its capabilities and wide range of products and services. The event took place in Johannesburg at the company’s Kempton Park facility. 1
R
2
3
otolabel specialises in
communications, packaging, labelling
1
Pharma industry guests attending the site visit
flexographic, letterpress and
and stationery solutions in southern Africa.
2
S oftware on the Rotocontrol RSP label inspection machine has been customised according to Rotolabel’s needs
3
The Rotocontrol BL440
digital print technologies, allowing the company to print labels
Rotolabel Johannesburg’s pharmaceutical aligned centre of
of consistently high quality on a range
excellence took centre stage at the event
of substrates with a variety of finishes.
with guests attending a site visit that
Between its Cape Town and Johannesburg
showcased exactly how the company
its pharmaceutical customers also got
printing facilities, Rotolabel has in excess
takes the industry’s needs into account.
to view the way in which the production
of 20 presses, making it one of the biggest players in the market.
Maritz highlighted the company’s stateof-the-art booklet machine – a Rotocontrol
According to Wicus Maritz,
By touring Rotolabel Johannesburg,
facility has been set up in line with industry standards to avoid cross-contamination
BL440, the most up-to-date
or stock pilferage for example. This has
chief executive at Rotolabel, the
inspection machine, a
been done by securing the sites for each
company has come a long way
Rotocontrol RSP, and the
component i.e. the pharmaceutical
over the past 35 years, when
Nova Gidue Flexo, which
area is completely separate to the
its Cape Town facility was first
has significantly increased
commercial labelling areas. Tight security
established. The Joburg operation
Rotolabel’s capacity.
measures have also been implemented,
was eestablished more than 30
Guests also got to
years ago, and when Rotolabel
see its GlobalVision
mobile segregation units and stringent
in Cape Town was aquired by
electronic verification
line clearance procedures where waste is
Bidvest in 2008, the businesses
system, which Rotolabel
cleared in a controlled manner.
were consolidated under one
Wicus Maritz
management. ‘We have scale yet remain flexible in business,’ he
operates at both its Cape
including biometric access control,
The company is also fully compliant
Town and Johannesburg
with industry requirements in terms of
production plants. This
face-stock, adhesives, inks and varnishes.
commented, addressing guests from the
is the company’s most recent investment,
At Rotolabel, only low migration, FDA-
pharmaceutical industry at the Rotolabel
which was driven by its pharmaceutical
approved adhesives are used to produce
open day.
customers and to mitigate the risk of
pharmaceutical labels. Only materials
incorrectly printed packaging.
that have passed ISEGA ISO3826 testing
In essence, the company is a one-stop shop – nothing needs to be outsourced
According to the company, it is the
and comply with FDA regulation 21
when working with Rotolabel. This
first label printer in South Africa to have
CFR 175.105 are considered suitable for
was substantiated through several
invested in this technology, which puts
this application. •
presentations on the various divisions
Rotolabel in the ideal position to not only
of Bidvest Data Print and Packaging,
offer accurate label inspection but also
which is a leading supplier of printing,
peace of mind to its customers.
14
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Rotolabel – www.rotolabel.co.za
EVENTS
Sustain your brand and innovate in 2018
Have you booked your seat yet for the first P C Review Beauty Trends & Innovations Conference? If not, here’s why you should.
P
equity and corporate finance. She has established Imbalie Beauty as a leading and desirable beauty franchise group. She also played a key role in launching the upgraded Placecol skin care range and
harmaceutical
Cosmetic
exploration and won numerous awards
Review has rounded up some
during her studies, including four
of the best speakers and most
Sasol prizes for Chemistry and the
introduced Skinderm into the Perfect 10 franchise group. Michael Gullan, MD at G&G
South African Chemistry Institute’s
Digital, will share an award-
its inaugural conference, taking place on
James Moir Medal. Van der Wat
winning agency’s perspective
22 February at the Media Park Auditorium
has also presented her research at
on Marketing a beauty brand in
in Auckland Park, Johannesburg. To book
international conferences and has
knowledgeable industry experts for
your seat for R995 per person including
authored many scientific papers.
speciality pharmaceutical agency CERCA
VAT send an e-mail to Natalie.DaSilva@ newmediapub.co.za.
2018. Gullan’s advertising career of over 25 years started at the
Getting it right online
where he made significant contributions to
Elena Protulis will reveal How to
developing a number of pharmaceutical
group of exhibitors, which will be
develop and sustain a social
brands. He has more than two decades’
showcasing their products and
media strategy. Protulis has over
experience on key client accounts ranging
solutions for the cosmetics industry.
12 years’ experience in social
from cosmetics, pharmaceutical and
The event will also include a select
These include Symrise, Merck, Khaya International Packaging, Unicare and
media and content marketing gained at Sage Publications
medical to food and beverage, publishing and financial services. Gullan has a real
Meganede, which will have an international
(London), Native and Aqua now
talent for launching new products to market,
technical representative from Silab
Wunderman (Joburg). She founded Proél
as well as revitalising waning brands.
available throughout the day to discuss
Consulting in 2017, is a strong advocate
brand owners’ formulating and active
for women in tech and was instrumental in
ingredients needs.
establishing the MTN Group’s social media
Insight into compliance and category trends
presence through policies, guidelines and
Percy Sibanda will present on Compliance
Focus on formulating and driving innovation John Knowlton, one of the industry’s most progressive formulators and product developers, will discuss Creativity in the workplace to drive innovation. Knowlton is the MD of Cosmetic Solutions. Before
strategies across 22 Opcos. The Dos and don’ts of e-commerce will be highlighted in a not to be missed presentation by cosmetics and chemical industry expert, Robert Rae. Rae is a founding
in the South African cosmetics industry. Percy is the scientific and regulatory affairs advisor at L’Oréal SA. He currently serves/has served on working groups and committees for the chemical, cosmetics, FMCG and
member of Ordinary Skincare,
allied industries at the CTFA, SABS, NRCS,
which he formed in partnership
CGCSA, AMA and other SA government
with Dr Claire Jamieson. Ordinary
departments and regulatory agencies. He
worked at Johnson & Johnson (UK) and
Skincare is primarily an online business
is also chairperson of the CTFA’s Cosmetic
Justine now Avon-Justine (South Africa)
that is flourishing both in South Africa and
Regulatory Review Working Group, which
in various scientific, R&D and technical
the UK. His industry experience spans 30
reviewed and commented on the proposed
roles. He is a board member and technical
years running companies as MD, CEO and
DoH draft regulations for cosmetics.
advisor to the CTFA and co-authored
chairman in the UK, Europe and Asia with
the Handbook of Cosmetic Science
sales operations in almost all countries.
establishing his own company, he
formulator, Leandri van der Wat will delve into Formulating for Africa’s millennials. Van der Wat is the R&D manager at Optiphi, a Skin Rejuvenation
insights will be revealed by Kim Reddy, director of consumer
and Technology. The up and coming and award-winning
Current market trends and category
Spotlight on finance and marketing
insights at Nielsen, which she joined in August 2017. Prior to
Esna Colyn will focus on
this she spent eight and half
the financial aspects
years at Millward Brown, based
of How to keep a beauty brand in business. Colyn is the Imbalie Beauty Group’s
Technologies’ company. She
CEO which she joined in 2010
grew up with a curiosity for scientific
after working in banking, private
both locally and at its London office. Kim has 20 years’ experience in market research across various sectors including FMCG, financial services and telecoms. •
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
15
COMPANY FOCUS
Ultra Violet enters the world of beauty
The 2018 Pantone Color of the Year is Ultra Violet. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is celebrating this colour and the influence it’s going to have on the cosmetics industry and on makeup, hair colour and hair maintenance products.
D
escribed by Pantone as a
future. Complex and contemplative, Ultra
Music industry icons Prince, David Bowie
‘dramatically provocative and
Violet suggests the mysteries of the cosmos,
and Jimi Hendrix brought shades of Ultra
thoughtful purple shade’, the
the intrigue of what lies ahead and the
Violet to the forefront of Western pop culture
colour violet has been popular
discoveries beyond where we are now. The
as personal expressions of their individuality.
for years in all types of makeup and beauty
vast and limitless night sky is symbolic of
Nuanced and full of emotion, the depth
products, from temporary hair dyes to bold
what is possible and continues to inspire the
of Pantone 18-3838 Ultra Violet symbolises
lipsticks and eyeshadows.
desire to pursue a world beyond our own.
experimentation and non-conformity,
Pantone 18-3838 Ultra Violet
Enigmatic purples have also long
spurring individuals to imagine their unique
communicates originality, ingenuity and
been symbolic of counterculture,
mark on the world and push boundaries
visionary thinking that points us toward the
unconventionality and artistic brilliance.
through creative outlets. Historically, there has been a mystical or
THE TREND ON EVERYONE’S LIPS
spiritual quality attached to Ultra Violet. The colour is often associated with mindfulness practices, which offer a higher ground to those seeking refuge from today’s over-
IN A POST on Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’
revisit how they approach formulations and
Cosmetic Pulse blog, marketing assistant, Tiffany
ingredients, as well as forge new paths for this
stimulated world. Marcel van Rooyen, Sensient Cosmetic
Mikrut shares some interesting facts on lip colour
major makeup category. By closely monitoring
Technologies’ account manager for
cosmetics. These products continue to drive
market trends and playing with different concepts,
cosmetics South Africa, says: ‘Pantone
color cosmetics new product development across
Sensient’s application teams have been able
is the language of colour and it will be
most regions. Lip colour cosmetics is indeed the
to anticipate trends and inspire formulators
interesting to see how this year’s colour will
largest makeup subcategory in Latin America
around the world with innovative concepts like
be incorporated into makeup, fashion and
(33 percent), Asia Pacific (32 percent) and North
the delightful lip contouring routine (formulas
in our homes. We’ve already seen that the
America (31 percent).
SCT2141, SCT2142, SCT2143) featuring long
deep royal purple-blue hue of Ultra Violet
lasting ADT-C pigments for good lip adhesion. For
looks gorgeous on hair with purple hair
is actually the absence of a clear leading trend.
those who can’t do without their matte lipstick,
becoming a massive trend over the past
The category is teeming with innovation spanning
Sensient’s Girly Vintage Lipstick (SCT2042A)
few years.’
from new colours, effects and formats, allowing
will certainly strike a chord, thanks to the matte
formulators and marketers an almost blank canvas
effect and unique comfortable glide provided
Bold in beauty and hair care
to express their creativity.
by Covalumine composite pigments. Source:
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is
www.cosmeticpulse.sensient-cosmetics.com/
committed to developing, producing
category/ makeup
and marketing quality ingredients and
Maybe the most striking trend about lip makeup
One thing is for sure, the development of breakthrough concepts will require brands to
colourants for the cosmetics industry. At
16
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
COMPANY FOCUS
its global
long-lasting application, ADT-C surface
and product
production
treated pigments provide the colour while
development needs.
facilities, the company
Covapearl Starlight Violet 5331 gives a shimmer effect.
As a leading manufacturer of high quality colours, Sensient offers an extensive
manufactures the
range of natural and synthetic colours.
finest colourants and functional cosmetics
An industry leader
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies has
ingredients for makeup, skin and hair
As a primary manufacturer of certified dyes
a complete range of synthetic colours
care, personal hygiene, oral care and
and pigments and enjoying the successful
manufactured to the highest standards,
fragrance applications.
colour expertise of the Sensient Group,
specifically for the cosmetics industry.
the company offers globally compliant
The company’s products are designed
manufacturers 2018 Pantone Color of the
colours, speciality blending, surface
to unlock valuable opportunities,
Year product development needs, Sensient
treatments, speciality milling and pigments
provide optimum performance and
Cosmetic Technologies offers the following
dispersions to satisfy the most discerning
present superior solutions for cosmetics
globally approved synthetic dyes:
and individual requirements.
formulations. The product ranges
To meet brand owners and
• Unicert Violet K7025-J CI17200
All manufactured batches undergo
Unicert-J, Dyes-C, Phat and EC food dyes
• Unicert Violet K7116-J CI60730
rigorous testing to guarantee consistency,
contain synthetic water-soluble and oil-
• Violet Covasol W5008 CI45100
purity and reliability, to ensure its products
soluble colours conforming to cosmetics
meet customers’ strict demands.
colour regulations. •
and CI18965. It also produces globally approved
With the company’s knowledge of
pigments, with Unipure Violet LC587
cosmetic ingredient regulations, use
CI77007 being ideal for violet makeup
limits and labelling requirements, it can
products, and to meet consumers’ natural
assist customers with manufacturing
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
and organic requirements, the company offers Ecocert and Cosmos approved pigments and dispersions Unipure
Table 1: SCT 2118 Healing Lip Gloss – Violette
Ingredients
INCI
%
Synthetic wax
Synthetic Wax
3.40
Eutanol G
Octyl Dodecanol
12.30
Microcrystalline wax Ozokerite
Ozokerite
2.20
Covasterol
Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Candelilla Cera
20.00
Covamer
Polybutene (and) Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylene/ VA Copolymer (and) Isostearyl Alcohol
29.30
blonde and grey hair and in hair colour
Synthetic beeswax
Synthetic Beeswax
9.24
products for temporary and semi-
Dub MDIS
Diisostearyl Malate
7.26
Bentone Gel CAO V
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
2.50
Polybutene
Polybutene
3.00
Sensicrystal
Polybutene (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
9.00
Unipure Red LC300 ADT-C
CI 73360 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer (and) PEG-2 Soyamine
0.02
Unipure Blue LC680 ADT-C
CI 77007 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer (and) PEG-2 Soyamine
0.08
Covamer
Polybutene (and) Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylene/ VA Copolymer (and) Isostearyl Alcohol
0.20
Violet LC585 CI77007 and Unipure Violet
Phase
LC587 CI77007. Unicert Violet K7025-J CI17200 is a high purity grade of acid violet 43. This direct anionic dye with high water solubility brings violet blue colour to hair. It can be used in hair shading applications such as anti-yellowness products for
A
permanent applications. For Ultra Violet lip care products, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’s Violette healing lip gloss (see Table 1 for the formulation guide) helps relieve dry chapped lips while the Violette lipstick perfume evokes a sweet aroma of candy and childhood memories, enhancing the soothing feeling. Covasterol,
B
featured with plant derived ingredients, provides excellent emolliency and healing properties for dry lips while the Covamer polymer and ester blend forms a film that promotes spreadability. Sensicrystal provides superior adhesiveness for a
C
Covapearl Starlight Violet 5331
CI 77891 (and) Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
0.50
D
Violette Lipstick
Perfume
1.00
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
17
COLOUR COSMETICS
Each year brings with it new makeup must-haves. Metallic lipsticks are hot and true statement-making products, while metallic eyeshadows bring a new electric element to colour cosmetics. Kobo Products discusses how to achieve these super pigmented formulations.
Metallic lips and eyes
Layering metallic lipsticks on top of regular matte lipsticks creates extra dimension
M
etallic lipsticks and eyeshadows
provide an iridescent illumination that will
require super intense
emphasise the shape and depth of the eyes.
formulations that shimmer and
Kobo Products offers a range of pearlescent
shine with depth. While
the strobing trend has created a
pigments and easy-to-use pigmentary
DID YOU KNOW?
desire for glowing skin, metallics provide a stunning reflection and hue to add to this trend. When creating a look, metallic and neutral shades should be paired on lips and eyes because they are complementary. Metallic lipsticks are bold, vibrant and create dimension. They have a base of gold or silver
dispersions to support chemists formulating metallic lip and eye products. These products are
available in South Africa from Metallic lipsticks look good on Instagram. Romero Jennings, director of Cosmetic Ingredients. makeup artistry at M.A.C says, ‘The matte lip trend has been hot for so long, but Driving formulation metallic-toned lips are the new way to innovation create instant celebrity. Most importantly, KTZ pearlescent pigments it’s a trend that photographs incredibly well and looks great on are special effect pigments everyone’. Source: based on a natural mica www.allure.com
shimmer to give a more pronounced
substrate coated with titanium
dioxide and/or iron oxide to create
effect. They can help create the illusion of
pearlescent effects, interference colours and
bigger, fuller lips due to the light-reflecting
angle-related colour travel. They offer great
pigments and are designed to shade, define and highlight the lips. Layering metallic lipsticks on top of regular matte lipsticks creates extra dimension and expands the matte lipstick trend. Metallic eyeshadows give a foil finish, and contour and contrast
versatility in a broad range of cosmetics applications to impart colour and visual effects. These pigments are available in a variety of invigorating hues and particle size distributions. KTZ pearlescent pigments can enhance effects such as depth, dimension, sensual sheen and captivating sparkle. PT1BM Dispersions offer high concentrations of colour that contribute a glossy effect with good spreadability and a silky feel to finished formulas. These phenyl silicone fluid dispersions offer
with mascaras
a unique sensory profile in comparison to
and eyeliners.
dispersions in cyclopentasiloxane to achieve
They are
desirable and comparable formulation results.
available as powders or creams and the shades
The opportunity to formulate using this optimised phenyl fluid allows chemists to further utilise optical reflective properties with higher volatility to reach new limits. •
range from a soft shimmer to a glittery pearlescent sheen, which can be worn during the day or at night. Metallic eyeshadows also
18
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Cosmetic Ingredients – www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za Kobo Products – www.koboproductsinc.com
COLOUR COSMETICS
What will
sparkle and shine in 2018?
Blurred lines between technology and tradition, illumination and a strong focus on femininity are driving developments in colour cosmetics. P C Review caught up with Karen Maier from Merck to discuss what will be hot in South Africa this year.
T
here are very few rules when it comes to
As we kick off the new year, the company’s
colour cosmetics. Merck exemplifies this in
autumn/winter Arty Spirit colour forecast is set to
its colour forecasts with extreme looks and
influence new product development with ‘plenty of
exciting styles that can be translated into real
positive energy laying the groundwork for tomorrow’.
ideas for the local market.
There is a strong focus on bridging the gap between
‘The intention is to bring in the unique elements
the past and present with outrageous glamour and
presented by Merck and make them your own, in line
the avant garde intertwined to redefine what is cool
with your brand story,’ explains Maier, who is the head
and shake up existing conventions.
of performance materials at Merck South Africa.
The four key trends are: 1. Funky Star immerses us in a retro
Table 1: Formulation Guide
Phase
A
B
chic ambience, the disco scene and
Ingredients
INCI
%
Timiron SynBeam Red
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide
6.00
Timiron SynBeam Copper
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide
3.00
Covapate Unired LC 3703
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850
5.00
Covapate Unired LC 3779
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850
1.00
RonaCare AP
Bis-ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate
0.40
RonaCare Bisabolol
Bisabolol
0.40
Oxynex K liquid
Peg-8, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid
0.05
conventions to transcend genres with the spellbinding, boyish spirit of Paris at its centre 3. S treet Icon takes us back to basics, focusing on everyday scenes and accessories that give off a creative spark
Sensiva PA 20
Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin
1.00
4. D ivine Diva offers a contemporary
Paracera C 44
Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Ceresin
4.40
take on the minimalist attitude with
Wax white
Cera Alba
4.40
rituals and gestural codes that provide
Miglyol 812 N
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
17.50
Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
56.85
Coral Red Lipwax (W 17-23)
20
mysterious private clubs 2. B lurred Muse mixes up established
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
balance and harmony. While each trend offers two subcategories and a number of stunning looks using
COLOUR COSMETICS products based on a set range of colours, there are
the successor of the contouring
certain concepts that stand out as exceptionally
trend. Strobing works only with
relevant to the South African market.
some highlighting effects. Formulas
Made to ignite
with a light, silvery, more or less
Lips do the talking
Launched in August 2017, Ronastar
sparkling effect are applied on
Flaming Lights is a stunning deep red
Based on a beautiful colour palette of natural ashes,
protruding parts of the face, like
effect pigment for cosmetics applications,
cloudy sky, smoky grey, dried heather, azure mist,
cheeks, brow bones, nose, chin, or
perfectly engineered to provide a
faded pink, sandalwood and violet mood, Blurred
the centre of the forehead.’
new dimension of sparkle. It features
Muse is timeless, artistic, free and emotional. A
a uniform thickness and extremely
Petsitis explains that different
subcategory within this trend, Artist Atelier includes
formula bases and modes of
smooth surface. Due to its high-tech
a Coral Red Lipwax (see Table 1 for the formulation
application are possible, offered
pigment design, incoming light is strongly
guide) with a high pigment concentration to give a
as powders, sticks, poured
reflected to create a lustrous, crystal-
strong colour to lips. While red lips are a perennial
pasty products, creams and
like sparkle effect.
classic, this year the focus is on modern application
fluids. The common feature of
This innovative product works well in lip
and fresh finishes.
shiny illumination and radiance
products, eye makeup and nail polish.
‘Merck has created better effects and more
products is the content of reflective
options for customers with, for example, reds with
pigments, responsible for the
depth and pigments with multidimensional effects,’
lustrous effect. Often the base is white or pastel
says Maier. ‘We also help our customers with
coloured and contains silver, golden or
new ideas by presenting traditional products in
rose shimmer pigments. These products
innovative ways. For example, we’re focusing on lip
are applied gently on top of the
waxes, vinyl and stains to colour or finish the lips in
foundation, to produce a healthy
fresh and fun ways.’
glow in a way that makes the complexion look attractive, but
Get that golden glow
never oily or glossy.
Intense beauty is at the heart of the Divine Diva
It’ll be exciting to see what
trend yet it’s well balanced with respectability and
new colour cosmetics are
sophistication. The main colour range includes tonic
launched in South Africa
brown, graphic purple, intense patchouli, indigo
in the coming months,
leather, white pepper, abyss grey,
particularly the strobing
amber earth and petrified wood.
and illuminating
Deep Vanity is one of the
products. ‘This trend
subcategories in this trend and is
is such a positive one
characterised by precious golds
– instead of hiding
combined with intense purples and
flaws it highlights
a shiny bordeaux, adding a vibrant
perfections. There
contemporary edge to products
are also many claims
inspired by this trend. To illustrate
surrounding strobing, which
Deep Vanity in an application, Merck
can be interpreted in various
has created Ancient Gold Eyeshadow
ways,’ Maier concludes. •
(see Table 2 for the formulation guide). This golden eyeshadow has a warm hue for lighter skin tones and a
Merck Performance Materials – www.merck-performance-materials.com
more brilliant intense effect on darker skins, the product can be applied with a wet sponge.
Table 2: Formulation Guide
Phase
Highlighting perfection This brilliant face-illuminating hack is taking off in South Africa with Woolworths among the first
A
Ingredients
INCI
%
Colorona Patina Gold
Mica, CI 77891, CI 77499, CI 77491
20.00
Colorona SynRussian Gold
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, CI 77491, Silica
17.50
Mica, CI 77491, CI 77891
5.00
Colorona Tangerine Orange
local brand owners to launch a
Timiron SynBeam Red
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide
2.50
strobing cream.
Parteck LUB Talc
Talc
38.90
Parteck LUB MST
Magnesium Stearate
1.85
radiance and strobing? (published in Euro
Maisita Natural 9083
Zea Mays
2.75
Cosmetics), Xenia Petsitis, Merck’s technical service
Dow Corning 556
Phenyl Trimethicone
4.95
manager for decorative cosmetics discusses the
Eutanol G
Octyldodecanol
3.50
Squalane, vegetable
Squalane
2.55
not only a descriptive claim,’ she writes, ‘it is also
Euxyl PE 9010
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin
0.50
a makeup technique and could be considered
Ancient Gold Eyeshadow (W 17-41)
In an article entitled What are illumination,
ins and out of this new makeup trend. ‘Strobing is
B
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
21
HAIR CARE
Addressing hair loss with plant peptides
Hair loss affects both men and women. The 2017 award-winning, first generation plant peptide developed from Turmeric by Vytrus Biotech achieves hair growth through the epigenetic reset of the hair bulb, using a biological approach. By O. Expósito, M.
When there is an imbalance in the cycle, hair
Perez, R. Vallecillo, M. Mas, A. Gallego, T. Ruiz and S. Laplana
proliferating tissues in the human body. The
B
new hair.
The director of the orchestra The dermal papilla is one of the most rapidly biological interaction within this tissue is crucial for the re-activation and regulation
constitute a wide chapter in
of hair follicle development and growth. It activates proliferation and differentiation
dermatology. Hair loss or
of keratinocytes in the hair matrix,
alopecia can be caused
issues, from hormone driven to immunologic, pharmacologic or
Figure 1: Induction of dermal papilla cells proliferation
enter a latent state, stopping the creation of
e it loss or thinning, hair problems
by an unlimited series of clinical
The field of hair regrowth treatments is constantly evolving
loss occurs because the dermal papilla cells
disease induced. Even though hair is of little biological value to humans, hair loss has a direct psychological effect on a person’s self-esteem and confidence. It’s no surprise that the field of hair re-growth
DID YOU KNOW?
regulates the hair growth cycle, determines the quality and size
There are more than 400 preclinic assays on turmeric described in literature and more than 1 000 publications showing its multiple properties, ranging from antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and wound healing to antimicrobial and DNA protecting.
treatments is constantly evolving and every new finding achieves great relevance. Despite the different etiologies, research has
of hair produced and it can regenerate the entire hair follicle. Under the correct microenvironment in the hair bulb, dermal papilla cells work correctly and regulate several key molecules including growth factors, nutrients and miRNAs.
They segregate molecules including growth factors such as Insulin Growth Factor-1 (IGF-1), which stimulates follicle development,
shown there is a common link in all cases of
maintaining the Anagen phase and postponing
reversible alopecia – the state of the dermal
the transition into the Catagen phase1,2. It is
papilla cells. These cells are ultimately in charge
also essential for the growth and differentiation
of the correct and balanced functioning of the
of follicles3,4.
hair cycle, which has three phases:
Both plants and animals have thousands
1. A nagen when hair grows actively
of different microRNAs (miRNAs), which are
2. Catagen when hair stops growing
key elements for the modulation of organism
3. T elogen when hair falls.
development5,6,7. In hair growth, their crucial
In the hair bulb, there is a mix of molecules and
role has only recently been discovered – they
cross signaling, regulated by dermal papilla
are involved in the control of each cycle phase
cells, which changes from phase to phase and
and regulate the transition between phases
causes the transition from one phase to the next.
when targeting different signaling pathways and transcription factors. While about 200miRNAs are involved in the different stages, only two of them are particularly important to the hair follicle: miRNA-31 and miRNA-228,9. The expression of miRNA-31 is intense and exclusive of the Anagen phase. It controls diverse signaling routes
22
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
HAIR CARE Figure 2: Induction of IGF-1 production from dermal papilla cells
related to the control of cell differentiation and hair formation, it promotes the transition of the follicle from the Telogen to Anagen phase and, if inhibited, the Catagen phase commences. MiRNA-22 is involved in the premature transition to the regression of the hair follicle10. Its expression increases during the Catagen phase and is the highest during the Telogen phase. Its induction is enough to promote transition to and progression beyond the Catagen phase. Seeing how hair loss starts when dermal papilla cells become inactive, their reactivation is a possible solution to the problem. Vytrus Biotech’s latest research and technology have allowed the company to create a plant-based active ingredient able to produce an epigenetic resetting of the hair bulb, reactivating latent dermal papilla cells and promoting hair follicle regeneration to create new hair.
micro-environment and have a pool of active stem cells. They also share a key link – signaling peptides.
Plants and hair are naturally similar
Plant and animal growth factors have very similar
Vytrus Biotech’s philosophy is to find solutions
functions; it is possible to use plant growth factors
based on what plants do in real life. Thanks to in
for hair and skin care applications. The latest
house knowledge on plant stem cells and plant
in-house research at Vytrus Biotech reveals the
physiology, the company has determined that plant
interactions between signaling molecules of the
tissues and human hair work in a similar way. They
hair follicle and their relation to phyto-peptides,
are both rooted, have seasonal behaviour (fall in
allowing the company to design and produce
autumn), absorb nutrients from the surrounding
peptidic fractions of plant origin based on the
®
KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for hair care products such as oils, conditioners or masks. Re-envision your hair care formulations – with solutions and services that meet your requirements exactly and with ingredients that naturally fulfill consumer wishes, such as an impressive combability and manageability. KahlWax. The ingredients for care. www.kahlwax.com
sfc-info@savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za
2018-01 Ad_P&C_Jan_KahlWax.indd 1
13.11.17 10:09
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
23
HAIR CARE signaling mechanisms
surprisingly great similarities as animal growth
that regulate hair loss.
factors and it has been demonstrated that they carry out a growth factor effect on dermal
First generation of plant peptides
papilla cells.
A massive category has
cultures and subsequent concentration of cell-
developed based on
free supernatants, it is possible to obtain these
the use of oligopeptides
plant oligopeptides, which are rich in plant-
in the cosmetics and
derived growth factors, transcription factors and
pharmaceutical
epigenetic modulators. These oligopeptides show
industries. Yet these
great potential for cosmetics and dermatological
peptides are from
applications, including hair growth stimulation,
human origin and their
anti-ageing, skin regeneration and wound healing.
With the growth control of high density cell
production processes are expensive and/
The turmeric super active
or transgenic.
Rich in curcuminoids (mainly curcumin), Curcuma
Several in-house tests
longa is one of the most researched plants in
demonstrate that
biomedicine. It was the perfect candidate among
genuinely plant derived
plants with a high regenerative capacity. Turmeric
oligopeptides are
is a tropical and subtropical plant characterised
very similar to those
by its ramified, cylindrical and orange rhizomes.
of humans and offer
These modified roots act as storage and resistance
great potential in the
organs. They grow endlessly and have excellent
regeneration of human
regenerative properties.
skin cells through a Figure 3: Increase in hair density
growth factor-like effect. Totipotent plant cell cultures (also known
Capilia LongaPPF (INCI name: Water (and) Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Callus Conditioned Media (and) Gluconolactone (and) Sodium
as plant stem cells) are excellent material for the
Benzoate) represents a new activity profile
production of innovative and high value active
for Curcuma longa, claiming PPF. This active
ingredients. This is because they represent a
ingredient is the concentrated secretome of
new generation of plant-based products that
totipotent cells from the rhizome of turmeric. The
perfectly combine excellent efficacy and safety
secretome is rich in signaling peptides specially
profiles with highly efficient and sustainable
designed to create an optimal micro-environment
production processes. These totipotent cells have
to re-activate hair growth, epigenetically resetting
extraordinary regenerative properties, being able
the hair bulb, regenerating the hair follicle and
to restore an entire plant from a single cell.
offering an exclusive nutritive blend for hair.
There are many similarities in the tissue regeneration processes of plants and animals. Based on the company’s expertise in plant regeneration processes, several small signaling peptides (plant oligopeptides) have
determine the ability of the active ingredient to activate processes of proliferation and release key growth factors for the production of new hair. To determine the induction of dermal papilla cells proliferation, we measured the incorporation
concentrated from
of Bromodeoxiuridine (BrdU) in the DNA of human fibroblasts dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), through
of totipotent plant
an immunocytochemical assay, over 48 hours.
cells in the so-called
The levels of fluorescence intensity indicate
Phyto-Peptidic
the proliferation index of HFDPC compared to
Fractions (PPF).
untreated cells in the basal medium.
These PPF are
The ingredient significantly induces the human
ultimately responsible
dermal papilla cells proliferation at 48 hours with
for the extremely
a proliferation index of up to 177 percent, showing
high regenerative
a growth factor-like effect. This is higher than other
capabilities of totipotent plant cells and represent the first cosmetics actives of this category which can maintain skin’s regenerative potential. These peptides have
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
The goal of the in vitro efficacy tests was to
been identified and an optimised culture
24
In vitro efficacy tests
growth factors (FGF, VEGF, HGF, IGF-1) and even higher than Minoxidil (+169 percent). The results are detailed in Figure 1. To carry out the experiment, the HFDCP were incubated over 24 to 48 hours with the product. IGF-1 levels were quantified from supernatants by
HAIR CARE ELISA. The production index results are compared to untreated cells in basal medium.
Figure 4: Trychogram
Capilia LongaPPF significantly induces the release of IGF-1 growth factor by the human dermal papilla cells with a production index up to 115 percent (compared to untreated cells) showing a faster activity than Minoxidil (36 percent) at 24 hours (see Figure 2). HFDPC were incubated over 24 hours with the product. The miRNA levels were quantified from HFDPC supernatants using qPCR. The Pfaffl method was used to analyse the raw data where the expression of each gene is compared with a control gen Actin (housekeeping gene). The production index results were compared to untreated cells in the basal medium. The results show the product significantly modulates the expression of the miRNA factors: • up to 6.3 times more miRNA-31 expression stimulation (compared to the control) • a reduction of up to 40 percent miRNA-22 expression index (compared to the control). Figures 5 and 6 show the modulation of miRNA31 and miRNA22 expression levels from derma papilla cells.
In vivo efficacy tests A panel of 40 Caucasian volunteers was selected for the in vivo tests. The volunteers were both male and female aged between 18 and 60. They all showed hair loss (ratio or hairs in Anagen and Telogen phases less than 4 (A/T=4 is considered the norm), with different etiologies (male and female androgenetic alopecia, seasonal alopecia, diffuse alopecia, hair loss due to technical processes, fragility and menopause), grade Hamilton I-IV for men and grade Ludwig I-II for women. It was a double-blind assay at 45, 90 and 150 days, with one application per day on the scalp and two evaluation points: placebo (20 vol.) and Capilia LongaPPF at one percent dosage (20 vol.). There was no change of hairstyle or colour during the study and the product was recommended to be applied before going to sleep, as this is when hair growth occurs. The combing test consisted of combing the hair, gathering all the detached strands and counting them. According to literature, on average the scalp sheds between 40 and 100 hairs per day. Higher numbers are considered abnormal and a sign of hair loss. The results show up to 89 percent hair loss reduction, with an average of 53 percent at 45 days, 57 percent at 90 days and 57 percent at 150 days. Since the biological cycle of hair requires three months to change from the Telogen to Anagen
significant improvement in the scalp coverage was also noted. TrichoScan microphotography was used to calculate the number of hairs on a select surface area. It measures the number of hairs per 0.25cm2 and calculates hair density per square centimetre. The results show up to 52 percent of hair density increase at 150 days and an average of 13.500 new hairs (see Figure 3).
Rebalancing the hair growth cycle To test the effect of the active in realigning the hair growth cycle, a set number of hairs (between 18 and 25) are plucked from the scalp to determine which phase of the hair growth cycle they are in. This is done by looking at the morphology of the roots and bulb, and assessing the appearance of the hair follicle at the beginning and end of the test. A tricogram was taken to determine the state of the roots of the hair bulbs and the scalp at a specific moment. Treatment with the product shows a 27 percent increase in the hair growth coefficient. It also shows that in 150 days the roots went from small, barely developed and in late Anagen phase to sheaths that are more extensive, with a more
Treatment with the product shows a 27 percent increase in the hair growth coefficient
developed regenerating area. Hair was also broader, more active and better anchored to its structure (see Figure 4). Both the in vitro and in vivo tests demonstrated the efficacy of Capilia LongaPPF, which is distributed in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals. Capilia LongaPPF boosts hair growth density and quality, delays hair loss and strengthens hair. It also activates hair follicle regeneration, stimulates bulb micro-circulation and nutrition, and resets the hair cycle by extending the Anagen phase, in both men and women with any kind of alopecia. • *References available on request.
phase, results regarding the regenerative efficacy of the active to increase hair density could only be visible after 150 days, when the length of the newly generated hair can be seen. A
Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
25
HAIR CARE
Get stronger hair, wash after wash
than untreated hair. It works by creating additional hydrogen and ionic bonds within the hair keratin
structure, by penetrating deep into the hair fibre, to the cortex, and restores
Using cost-effective technology, Ashland is bringing the benefits of bond multiplier technology to the hair care industry with FiberHance bm solution. This awardwinning functional ingredient is available locally from IMCD South Africa.
B
hair fibre strength back to levels of virgin hair. Figure 1 shows the results of a comparative cyclic fatigue tensile test on FiberHance bm solution versus a fully formulated shampoo. These results suggest a mere one percent of the ingredient is capable of outperforming
ond multiplier is the buzzword
bonds and linkages are damaged
a well-known commercial shampoo,
for products that claim to repair
or broken. The main causes of
which is formulated with a long series
broken hair bonds as a result of
damaged and broken hair are
of ingredients typically claiming to
harsh treatments like bleaching,
ageing, chemical treatments and
have a positive effect on repairing and
environmental aggressors.
protecting the hair fibre.
colouring and heat styling. Olaplex, launched in the US in
FiberHance bm solution not only
According to Ashland, the
December 2014 as a professional hair
typical anti-breakage
care treatment to ‘end bad hair days’,
solutions currently on
continues to enjoy great acclaim with
the market only work
celebrities even swearing by it. Since then,
on the surface of
raw materials suppliers have developed
the hair by coating
new and innovative products for home
or strengthening it
use, some positioned as prevention pre-
through the use of
treatments and others to repair damage.
proteins. However,
In 2017, Ashland launched FiberHance
the long term and
bm solution – a small molecule in which
most effective solution
the chemical structure and dimension
is to repair and restore
have been specifically designed to
the internal structure.
DID YOU KNOW?
improves the strengthening performance of a shampoo but can also
simplify a formulation Ashland’s FiberHance bm solution received the Gold award in the category through the use Best New Functional Ingredient at inof one ingredient cosmetics Global in London, in 2017. instead of using FiberHance bm impressed judges with many to achieve its use of unique and sustainable the desired results. In ingredients that work simultaneously addition, this material to create and strengthen hair fibres without compromising can be added at any colour. time during the mixing process, though it’s best if
optimise multi-bond interactions within
added at the end before pH and
hair’s keratin cortex. The company’s payoff
Strengthened from within
line for this technology says it all: ‘Who
FiberHance bm solution (INCI:
viscosity adjustments are made. The
helps strengthen hair from the inside out?
Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and)
pH should be adjusted from four to five
We do!’
Hydroxypropyl Ammonium Gluconate)
for optimum performance. •
Weak hair breaks easily, is frizzy and
is an innovative, unique and patented
difficult to manage because the inner
ingredient that strengthens the internal
structure has been compromised, so
hair structure up to three times more
Figure 1: FiberHance bm solution test shampoo (#Z351-18A) versus a commercial product
Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/ worldwide/south-africa
premium strengthening shampoo prototype (#Z351-18A). + 1% as is fiberHance™ bm solution showing best results in this comparative test
Control 3x Bleached
26
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
commercial serum deep repair shampoo with: panthenol cationic hydrolyzed protein hydrolyzed protein mix of seed oils
HAIR CARE
Beyond the basics
to more customised benefits The customisation trend, a renewed focus on scalp care using proven skin care actives, social media and online tutorials, and the curl liberation movement are driving developments in the hair care category. P C Review looks at the new ingredients and formulation technologies on the market, which have been developed with these various trends in mind.
S
outh Africa’s hair care category grew by six percent in 2016, according to market research firm Euromonitor International. Ongoing changes in consumers’
expectations have led to many technological advances and new product launches. One of the biggest changes is the natural hair care trend, which is becoming the norm as more and more women embrace their curls and adopt more textured hair styles. In line with this emerging curl pride movement, DSM Personal Care (DSM) has created new conditioning formulations that put the pleasure back into curl care. Data from consumer insight studies on women in three culturally diverse regions of Brazil revealed that feminist and Afro movements are shaping an inclusive, culturally diverse beauty landscape – and hair is playing a key role. Women everywhere, including in South Africa, are liberating their curls by resisting the pressure to straighten their hair. In support of this trend towards natural, personalised styling, Chempure, through its association with DSM, is empowering consumers with in-home mixes that encourage experimentation. The company also offers specific solutions for individual hair types and formulations for products that enable women to achieve the curls of their dreams. DSM’s new cushion curl mousse proves that curls can be soft. It defines and maintains curls, even in humid conditions and incorporates Tilamar Quat 2241 for an enhanced conditioning effect. Added vitamins provide scalp care while moisturising and strengthening hair fibres. Hair colour is protected by the UV filter, Parsol MCX.
28
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
HAIR CARE
Focus on scalp care Hannon’s scalp therapy treatment promises to relieve dry itchy scalp issues and assist with hair loss. This penetrative treatment is rich in vitamins B5, C and E, as well as bioflavonoids (antioxidants), jojoba, wheat germ – which has anti-inflammatory properties – and Liposomes to stimulate hair re-growth and restore the hair and scalp’s natural oil and protein balance. This and other Hannon hair care products can be
DID YOU KNOW?
DSM’s curl defining cream conditions, protects and styles hair for a natural look that keeps curls moving. This formulation is infused with care ingredients, including Phytantriol and D-panthenol for strength, heat and split-end protection and moisturisation;
purchased online at www.hannon.co.za/ Hair-Care.
Forecasters have predicted and found it to be suitable the ‘head spa’ to be big in 2018. for hair care applications This is literally a facial for the scalp, such as anti-ageing which combines scalp cleansing, a scalp care. relaxing head massage and scalp and A double-blind hair conditioning. It was originally placebo-controlled developed in Japan and is influenced by Indian Ayurveda clinical study showed practices. Source: www. a significant, immediate latfusa.com and sustained improvement
Parsol SLX for colour protection and to
in scalp moisturisation. The study
defend against structural damage; argan oil for
was performed on female volunteers
shine enhancement and Phytaluronate PF for
with different skin and hair types,
moisturisation and a light, permeable visco-
including Caucasian, African, Hispanic
elastic film.
and Asian. The company tested a leaveon hair serum containing two percent
Effective scalp hydration
PatcH2O against a placebo in two
Consumers around the world are looking
groups. Scalp hydration was evaluated
for products that will help protect their scalp
by dielectric conductivity at baseline, at
against dehydration, while improving hair
four hours; and three and 21 days post
structure and shine. In response, BASF has
treatment. Increased scalp hydration
reassessed its highly effective hydra-protect
up to 52 percent against baseline was
technology for skin moisturisation, PatcH2O,
demonstrated. Volunteers indicated
A doubleblind placebocontrolled clinical study showed a significant, immediate and sustained improvement in scalp moisturisation
cluding improvement of hair gloss
no acid with
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
29
HAIR CARE their scalp felt more comfortable and that PatcH2O led to a noticeable improvement in hair quality and shine. The patch technology is a result of BASF’s dual expertise in natural macromolecules and the controlled release of active ingredients. Acting on two levels, PatcH2O offers optimum hydration on the scalp’s surface and, like a protective film, it reduces water evaporation owing to the unique combination of natural biopolymers, hyaluronic acid, alginate and a natural glucan known as pullulan, which forms a 3D molecular mesh. This micro-network is loaded with a moisturising complex containing glycerin, L-serine, trehalose and urea, which is gradually released into the heart of the stratum corneum to rebalance the moisture level in the scalp. PatcH2O is available in South Africa from Botanichem.
Precise science for assessing split ends Every two years, the DWI – Leibnitz Institute for Interactive Materials organises a Hair Science Symposium. It offers a unique platform for discussing the most current and appealing ideas in hair research and hair care science. During the 20 th symposium in Dresden, Germany, Symrise presented three papers on evaluating split ends; the adverse effects of treatments on Caucasian and African hair; and a hair tress specification study, which won one of two Best Lecture Awards. The search for solutions for beautiful and healthy hair remains a key focal point in the cosmetics industry. For this reason, the symposium focuses on science, which forms the nucleus of innovation in hair care. Symrise further develops existing research to understand the needs of various hair types and has presented three contributions to the reasons for common hair problems in an effort to develop possible solutions.
*cli
nica
lly p rov en
HMA UV SHELL
HAIR PHOTOPROTECTION SOLAR PROTECTION EVEN AFTER 5 WASHES*
Sustainability of the solar filter in hair APPLICATION
AFTER WASHING
0,016
100
% of washed active (eliminated)
g.active/g.hair
90
0,015
80
0,012
650%
0,008
0,004 0,002 0
0,002 HMA-UV Shell
imperative for hair care. Yet with daily washing rituals limiting the amount of protection one can impart on hair, it’s uncommon to include a UV filter in a wash-off hair product. Infinitec, represented in South Africa by Materia Medica, has overcome the washing factor by developing a photo-protective active that remains on hair even after five consecutive washes. This unique solar filter technology uses a micro-adhesive bond, which allows the sun filters to bind to the hair, offering long-lasting photo-protection that remains unaffected by washing.
Hair researchers looked closely at the differences between virgin and damaged human hair tresses using fluorescence microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and complemented this with mechanical properties studies. Hair tresses, such as virgin dark brown Caucasian hair, were sourced from various suppliers. The team noticed differences within the same hair type and studied the implications of these in tests. Symrise presented a novel application of image analysis for better assessing the performance of hair care products,
methods and is more precise. The study covers the evaluation of the associated adverse
60 50 40
0,006
hair as they do on skin. A good solar protection active is therefore
technique is said to distinguish itself from existing industry
70
0,01
UV RAYS CAN have the same damaging effects on the scalp and
summarising a method for evaluating split ends. This 100
90%
0,014
SUN PROTECTION FOR HAIR
effects of bleaching and dyeing as well as the effects of UV, thermal and mechanical damage on Caucasian and
30
African hair. Symrise worked with the University of Campinas
20
in Brazil on this topic.
10
Uncoarcervated solar filter
0
10 HMA-UV Shell
Uncoarcervated solar filter
Protecting hair from pollution Despite efforts to decrease emissions, global atmospheric pollution grew by eight percent in 2016. Today more than 80 percent of the world’s population lives in urban areas where air pollution is above the threshold recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO).
CONTACT CHANTAL O’BRIEN–DE VILLIERS
072 731 3909
www.materiamedica.co.za 30
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Studies conducted by the WHO have demonstrated that excessive and continuing exposure to different types of pollutants adversely affect people’s health, enhancing numerous pathologies. On hair, the impact is more noticeable and immediate due to the deposition of a wide variety of pollutants, enhanced by the adherent action of
HAIR CARE hair products. This leaves hair opaque, dry and weakened with a low combability tolerance, affecting its aesthetics and mechanical properties. Hair does not have a self-protection system or any regenerative capacity, so it’s mostly unprotected and vulnerable to external aggressors and the damaging effects of pollution. As consumers are more concerned about the effects of pollution on the properties of their hair, anti-pollution products are gaining momentum. Hair can
of pollutants by 17 percent (see Figure 1), aiding a
be protected by reducing the contact of polluting
62 percent increase in combability, increasing hair
agents with hair fibres. This understanding was the
strength by 43 percent and improving its brightness
inspiration behind Chemyunion’s proven effective
by 20 percent even after exposure to pollutants.
anti-pollution solution for the hair care market. Polluout is a proprietary technology of natural
Figure 1: SEM proof of Polluout’s efficacy in reducing particle adhesion
Chemgrit Cosmetics is the local agent for Chemyunion. •
composition which reduces the deposition of polluting agents while providing immediate benefits for hair. This ingredient is composed of a synergistic network of plant polysaccharides associated with green tea, panthenol and xylitol, which form a flexible and protective film. The plant polysaccharides also provide antioxidant action against the photo-degradation of the hair fibres. In efficacy tests, Polluout reduced the deposition
BASF – www.basf.co.za Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chempure – www.chempure.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com DSM – www.dsm.com/personal-care Infinitec – www.infinitec.es Materia Medica – www.materiamedica.co.za Symrise – www.symrise.com
Crest Chemicals
Personal Care Offers Solutions for Hair care Silicones from
Mono Propylene Glycol USP from
Ammonium Thioglycolate & Thioglycolate from
Actives & Naturals from
Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981 Crest chemicals.indd 1
2018/01/05 3:03 PM
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
31
HAIR CARE
2018 #hairgoals Consumers’ hair care wish list is changing with an increased focus on natural styles and product customisation with offerings tailored to their individual needs. Kim MacCallum from Vantage Specialty Ingredients shares insight into new naturally derived ingredients and multitasking formulations set to help brands and consumers achieve their hair goals in 2018.
Figure 1: Fucogel ex vivo study results
A
ccording to Euromonitor, consumers
Botanicals are the fastest growing ingredient
want healthy looking hair. There is
category in hair care. Vantage has prided itself on
also a growing global trend towards
being a global leader in the supply of natural and
embracing natural curls and
plant-based oils. The company has noted that plant-
colours. This might be due to ongoing economic constraints as it becomes increasingly costly to maintain certain looks. Consumer purchasing is
inspired and premium botanical ingredients are set to attract more consumers. The consumption pattern of conditioning hair ingredients is becoming similar to that of skin care. The share of emollients within conditioning
currently influenced by two
ingredients is increasing. The green trend could also
main trends:
be responsible for consumers’ search for alternatives
1. d evelopments in skin care
to silicones. However, most hair care products
2. the green/natural trend.
currently contain silicones and will continue to do so
These trends manifest
to ensure their effectiveness.
through the extension and
The demand for sulphate-free and mild surfactant
segmentation of hair care
cleansers is strong. As there are very few purely
routines and greater interest
natural ingredients available for hair care, the focus
in ingredient labelling. As
tends to rather be on ‘naturally derived’ options
manufacturers reinforce their
from plant or animal sources with more eco-friendly
efficacy claims with little in
profiles. As a result, consumers are inclined to focus
the way of innovation and as
more on mild products rather than natural ones.
emerging markets are leading growth, traditional and safe
The future is customisable
ingredients are experiencing
Most consumers tend to spend ages trying to
a revival.
tame their curls or coax them straight with oils, humectants and brushes of all barrel sizes and
Figure 2: Visualisation by videomicroscopy and quantification of particles by image analysis before and after treatment with Pollustop
bristle textures. Yet with the increased focus on saving time, they are more likely to start embracing their texture with customisable products. Science-first brand, Virtue has created collections for washing, care and maintenance based on consumers’ common hair textures and what they aspire to have – in fact, Virtue offers an online survey to help consumers perfectly customise their hair care routines. Vantage recently relaunched a range of natural oils and butters focused specifically on hair care. The company has also developed six multitasking formulations using oils of grapeseed,
32
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
HAIR CARE Table 1: Natural hair elixir
Phase
1
2
Ingredients
INCI
%
DW Jojoba Golden
Simmondsia Chinenses (Jojoba) Seed Oil
29.50
Lipovol Sun
Hellianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
10.00
Lipovol G
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
5.00
Lipovol C-76
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
15.00
Lipovol Argan Virgin
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
20.00
Lipovol A
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
20.00
Vitamin E
Tocopherol
0.50
Preservative
Preservative
qs
This multi-purpose, natural oil blend packs a nourishment boost and brings smoothness to the most demanding hair. It can be used alone or added to hair masques and conditioners for a truly personalised experience
conducted an ex vivo study on hair fibres denatured in H 2O2 and treated with three percent Fucogel versus a
DID YOU KNOW?
sunflower, safflower, coconut, argan, jojoba, avocado and crambe, as well as shea butter. One of these formulations is shared in Table 1. DW Jojoba Oil is the star
control. The hair fibres were observed before and after rinsing using microscopic
analysis. Results showed International reports say ‘science Fucogel created sells across beauty lines’. So, if you’re incredible smoothing wondering how to make your hair care of the hair fibre in both products more innovative, one option is leave on and rinse to use skin care ingredients proven off applications (see beneficial for hair, which elevate the level of sophistication of a hair Figure 1). care product. Source: www. Yet the blurred lines allure.com between skin and hair care
ingredient in the new range of formulations. This oil is extremely beneficial
actives don’t stop there. Solabia did similar tests on hair tresses to
The consumption pattern of conditioning hair ingredients is becoming similar to that of skin care
as it mimics skin’s natural sebum. When used
determine the anti-pollution protective effects
on normal, undamaged hair, jojoba oil coats
of its award-winning skin care active ingredient,
the hair shaft, improves combability and shine,
Pollustop (Biosaccharide gum-4 (and)
leaves hair feeling silky and smooth, and
1.2-hexanediol). In an ex vivo study, hair locks
prevents damage. On dry, damaged hair it
were treated with a PM1 (air pollution) solution.
penetrates the hair, replacing lost lipids and
They were then cleansed with a shampoo
repairing hair from within. It also smoothes
containing Glycofilm 1.5P (Pollustop) at one
damaged cuticles to impart improved shine
percent and 0.5 percent versus a placebo and
while reducing roughness and preventing
an untreated control. The following results were
further damage. Lipovol Argan Virgin is a tried
documented (see Figure 2):
and trusted oil in the global cosmetics industry.
• up to +84 percent protection versus
This 100 percent pure virgin argan oil imparts protective effects against hair damage and provides softness to hair. Lipobutter Shea is
the untreated control (+48 percent on average, p<0.0001) • up to +91 percent ‘cleansing’
widely used in hair and skin care formulations
action versus the untreated
and is very popular in Africa. It imparts body
control (+60 percent on average,
and richness to a formulation and offers hair
p<0.0001)
protective properties during wet combing.
• 100 percent positive response.
Lipovol Crambe (Abysinnian oil) is known
While hair care saw some interesting
for its frizz control properties. It also brings
changes in 2017, consumers’
a light sensory feel to a formulation. Good
renewed hair goals are set to
old-fashioned coconut oil, Lipovol C-76 brings
bring about even more changes
softness and lustre to hair.
in 2018 with their increasing focus
Spreading love from skin to hair We have seen many of our skin care materials
Vantage’s six new multitasking hair care formulations address various concerns ranging from beard care and healthy looking hair to improved shine and conditioning
on beneficial materials that offer a little bit more than ‘cleanse’ and ‘condition’ benefits. •
crossing over to hair care. Recently, Solabia investigated how one of its old favourites, Fucogel – Biosaccharide gum-1, could be used in a hair care application. The company
Vantage Specialty Chemicals – www.vantagespecialties.com
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
33
HAIR CARE
Go SLES-free without
compromising on performance The Akypo range of anionic surfactants from Kao Chemicals is perfect for improving the mildness of cleansing formulations. Available locally from CIM Chemicals, these surfactants make formulating sulphatefree shampoos with high foam-ability a reality.
N
Akypo range offers excellent performance in preventing colour loss in dyed hair when compared to other anionic surfactants. In shampoos it protects colour, preventing it from fading during the washing process. To study the anti-colour fade benefits of Akypo Foam RL 40, Kao Chemicals tested
owadays, personal care brands
performance ratio, while Akypo Soft 100 BVC
and manufacturers demand
is the mildest anionic surfactant in the range.
Sodium Laureth Sulphate
The former is recommended for a wide
(SLES)-free alternatives in
range of mild shampoos, including those for
order to produce truly mild products that
babies and professional use. It is also ideal
meet consumers’ hair and sensitive skin
for building up viscosity in sulphate-free rinse-
care needs.
off systems. A mild shampoo formulation
Products in the Akypo range can be used as the main surfactant combined with
two references, C-151 and C-162, which are formulations optimised as shampoos for coloured hair. Both formulations are very mild for skin and scalp; they clean while reducing colour fade and improving colour shine. C-151 contains SLES as the primary anionic surfactant, while C-162 is a SLESfree formulation based on Akypo Foam RL
featuring Akypo Foam RL 40 is shared in
40. After washing, both references show
Table 1.
colour retention capabilities comparable to
amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants to replace SLES. Akypo Foam RL 40 is the best
Long lasting colour protection
option due to its properties and good cost/
Coloured hair also requires special care
a benchmark product that claims ‘colour protection’ on its label (see Figure 1). •
to prevent fading caused by UV exposure,
Table 1: Mild shampoo C-101
100 80 Color retention (%)
CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za Kao Chemicals – www.kaochemicals-eu.com
washing and other external aggressors. The
Figure 1: Colour retention assessment
60 40
Ingredients
INCI
%
Betadet HR
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
17.0
Akypo Foam RL 40
Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate
8.0
Amidet N PEG-4
Rapeseedamide
3.8
Quartamin BTC-131
Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride
0.3
Additives*
Fragrances, dyes, preservatives etc.
qs
Deionised Water
20
Up to 100%
pH adjuster
qs Appearance (20ºC) clear viscous liquid
0
Viscosity Brookfield (20ºC, cP) 7.500 approx.
C-151
C-162
Market product
The high foam properties and mildness of this shampoo are comparable to or better than a benchmark product
Choose AKYPO surfactants for mild cleansing and sulphate-free shampoo formulations! The benefits are endless: • vegetable derived fatty alcohols • proven mildness to skin and eyes • good eco-toxicity properties • excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants • high foaming properties • boosting effect on the performance of polymers/ conditioning agents.
Brad: 060 583 5324 www.cim.co.za
CIM Chemicals.indd 1
34
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
2018/01/09 7:04 AM
INDUSTRY TALK
Are manufacturers ready for
Industry 4.0?
Total digitisation of the manufacturing process, from cost reduction to increased agility and revenues, is expected to enable internal improvements and production innovation. While Industry 4.0 is music to manufacturers’ ears, how far off are they from achieving it?
I
t may or may not come as a surprise
aggregate information across the
that some manufacturers are way off,
supply chain.
according to new research conducted
Despite the rise in the Internet of Things (IoT)
by Sapio Research on behalf of Zetes.
and aspiration of digital supply networks,
The results reveal the true extent of the
organisational effectiveness is still reliant on
challenges currently facing the industry.
dated communications.
Only 29 percent of manufacturers admit
The fact that over two thirds of
to truly understanding the digital supply
manufacturers cannot provide decision
chain network (DSN), with less than 15
makers with access to the information
percent implementing a DSN. The biggest
required to make informed business
challenge to adoption is the lack of
decisions, is of significant concern.
information visibility, which in-turn damages
Although 89 percent of manufacturers
the essential decisions required to embrace
the chances of an organisation being able
state ‘they believe a single
demand-driven manufacturing
to access relevant insight in real-time.
view of information from
and to meet, if not exceed,
supply chain operations
customer expectations.
Challenges and concerns
is key’ – to date, only 30
The clear benefits include
Manufacturers state securing meaningful
percent have full end-to-
becoming more agile and
intelligence from their end-to-end supply
end visibility. The next 12
maximising the investment in
chain as a challenge (80 percent). Dealing
months will be a crucial time
expensive equipment – and
with real-time information (75 percent)
period for manufacturers as
doing so while driving down
and the ability to manage the intelligence
they take steps to transform
inventory levels and releasing
are also significant hurdles that need to
their businesses. There are
be overcome.
positive signs that many are
Other key highlights from the
working capital. Séba stien Sliski
starting to make some vital
manufacturing research include:
changes, because:
• more than half (59 percent) do not have
•3 8 percent of respondents are looking to
real-time visibility of stock levels within the organisation
improve supplier collaboration •3 5 percent are looking to improve supplier
• 65 percent do not have a real-time view of suppliers’ manufacturing schedules
performance monitoring •3 4 percent are looking to implement
• 68 percent do not have a real-time view
predictive alerts to mitigate disruption.
• only a third of manufacturers can
Zetes comments: ‘Manufacturers know that across the industry there needs to be greater focus on speed, accuracy and agility within the end-to-end supply chain. The only way to reach such heights is to optimise processes between legacy and new systems, as well as providing key stakeholders with meaningful insight from
of manufacturing volumes across plants within the organisation
Sébastien Sliski, GM of supply chain solutions at
Agility, collaboration and realtime information
BRIDGING THE GAP IN AUGUST 2017, Sapio Research surveyed 330 senior managers (on behalf of Zetes) within a range of manufacturing sectors across South Africa and Europe. A full overview of the results is detailed in the report: Manufacturers want supply chain visibility and collaboration; what’s holding them back? Visit www.zetes.com/en/whitepapers/manufacturing-report/567 to download the report.
real-time data sources.’ He says connecting different internal and
So, what is going to be key to
external silos and harmonising that data is
realising the benefits of the
pivotal to making valid comparisons and
digitisation movement? Creating
supporting intelligent decision-making. ‘The
an integrated information
pressure is on – but once manufacturers
layer fed by core systems,
begin to make small changes within the
enabling collaboration between
supply chain and become more proactive,
departments and being able to
they will be in a better position to become
access the right information, at the
fully immersed in Industry 4.0.’ •
right time, from anywhere in the supply chain. Most importantly, empowering management to take
Zetes South Africa – www.zetes.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
35
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Excipients
How to achieve QbD in
paediatric formulations? Using Armor Pharma’s Excipress GR150 lactose for direct compression, the University of Barcelona’s Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology published a poster on key factors to consider when producing tablets for paediatric patients. The authors of the poster are Ricard Canadell, Anna Nardi, Isaac Nofrerías, Marc Suñé, Pilar Pérez, Montse Miñarro, Josep Tico, Josep Negre, García Encarna.
O
btaining formulations for paediatric diseases is said to be one of the major challenges
pharmaceutical manufacturers will face in the coming years. In the European Medicines Agency’s guideline on pharmaceutical development of medicines for paediatric use1, the following general considerations are stated: ‘Any medicine should be designed to meet patient needs and consistently deliver the intended product performance.
DID YOU KNOW?
Direct compression is ideal for powders that can be mixed well and their critical material do not require further granulation attributes (CMAs), steps prior to being introduced to the tablet press. Source: www. according to their pharmaceuticalonline.com function in the formula, are among the aspects to
A systematic approach to
consider as part of the product
pharmaceutical development in accordance with ICH Q8 could be
drug CQA. Considering SeDeM methodology 2,
followed to meet these objectives.
characterisation parameters of powder, which provide the necessary information about a substance’s appropriateness in obtaining tablets by direct compression. The following parameters are considered: bulk density (Da); tapped density (Dc); inter-particle porosity (Ie); carr index (IC%); cohesion index (Icd); hausner ratio
When applied, the quality target
it is proposed as a CMA that the
(IH); angle of repose (α); flowability (t”);
product profile (QTPP) should be
compressibility and flowability
loss on drying (%HR); hygroscopicity (%H);
established taking into consideration
indexes are calculated for the
particle size (%Pf); and homogeneity
the specific needs of the paediatric
major excipient chosen during
index (IH).
population. Based on the QTPP, the
development to improve the API’s
critical product quality attributes
index of compressibility. These
(CQAs) should then be identified as
designated CMAs could be
Definition of characterisation parameters
well as the formulation and process
considered as specification to control
Whenever possible, methods indicated
parameters that may affect them.
variability in the excipient during
in pharmacopoeias were applied.
This approach will help in defining the
routine production. This is due to its
If not available, a system based
pharmaceutical design of paediatric
importance in the uniformity dosage of
on the usual practice in galenic
medicinal products’.
paediatric products.
research was proposed and adapted
One of the indicated administration
As an example of the proposed
specifically for the SeDeM diagram.
routes for paediatric patients is oral ,
methodology, an excipient produced
The following methods were applied for
proposing orodispersible tablets
specifically for direct compression
each parameter:
as an appropriate formulation.
– Excipress GR150 (Lactose
• Da, according to the method described
There are different technologies
Monohydrate) – has been analysed.
1
for their production. However,
in Section 2.9.15 of Eur. Ph. • Dc, according to the method described
direct compression has the most
Excipient classification
relevant economic interest among
The SeDeM method is based on
• Ie = Dc – Da / DcxDa
pharmaceutical manufacturers. The
experimental study and quantitative
• IC% is calculated from Da and Dc as:
correct choice of excipients and
determination. It is applicable to the
36
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
in Section 2.9.15 of Eur. Ph.
IC=(Dc _ Da / Dc)x100
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Excipients
• Icd is determined by directly compressing the product under study; determining the hardness (N) of tablets obtained and calculating mean hardness obtained • I H is calculated from Da and Dc as: IH= Dc/Da •α is the angle of the cone formed when the product is passed through a funnel with the following dimensions: funnel
Table 2: SeDeM Mean Incidence values for EXCIPRESS GR150
Figure 3: SeDeM diagram for EXCIPRESS GR150 ® Batch P1068GX1
1(*)
2(*) 3(*) Mean
Dimension
7.02
6.97
6.57
6.85
Compressibility
4.92
4.94
5.14
5.00
Flowability
7.64
7.74
7.73
7.70
Lubricity/Stability 9.55
9.44
9.72
9.57
Lubricity/Dosage
5.02
5.85
5.43
5.42
(*)1: Batch P1068GX1, 2: Batch P1062GX1, 3: Batch P1038GX
height 9.5cm; upper diameter of spout 7.2cm; internal diameter at the bottom; and narrow end of spout 1.8cm. The
Table 3: SeDeM good compressibility index for EXCIPRESS GR150
angle tangent value (α) of the cone was calculated using the following equation: Tg(α) = h/r • t ”, according to the method described in Section 2.9.16-2 of Eur. Ph.
ICG
1(*)
2(*)
3(*)
Mean
6.49
6.42
6.57
6.49
(*)1: Batch P1068GX1, 2: Batch P1062GX1, 3: Batch P1038GX
The following SeDeM diagrams
•% HR is determined by the loss on-drying
were obtained:
test carried out according to the general method 2.2.32 in Eur. Ph. •% H is determining the sample weight increase after being kept in a
Figure 1: SeDeM diagram for EXCIPRESS GR150 ® Batch P1038GX
humidifier at ambient relative humidity of 76 percent (± two percent) and a temperature of 22°C ± two degrees Celsius for 24 hours •p ercentage of particles measuring <50μ,
Compressibility and flowability index
%Pf is determined using the sieve test,
should be characterised as critical material
according to the general method 2.9.12
attributes during the R&D process for
of Eur. Ph.
paediatric formulations using SeDeM
• Iϴ, according to the general method
method. This is to control the uniformity of
described in 2.9.12 of Eur. Ph.
dosage of orodispersible tablets during
The next step was to convert the numeric
the manufacturing process. In order to
limits for each SeDeM parameter to radius
this keep this uniformity under control, the
values ‘r’. At the end, mean incidence
excipient’s routine results for compressibility
values and good compressibility index are considered as a CMA2.
Characterising the excipient
Compressibility and flowability index should be characterised as critical material attributes
and flowability indexes should be near Figure 2: SeDeM diagram for EXCIPRESS GR150 ® Batch P1062GX1
to the experimental values observed. Deviation will be specified considering the excipient variability observed during tests.
Using the SeDeM method, Excipress GR150
According to the study, for Excipress
(Lactose Monohydrate) was distinguished
GR150 a compressibility index value of 5.0
in three different batches, with the
(-5 percent) and a flowability index value
following results:
of 7.7 (-5 percent) were proposed as CMA. Armor Pharma’s full range of
Table 1: SeDeM experimental radius values results for Excipress GR150
pharmaceutical excipients, including
1(*)
2(*)
3(*)
Mean
Excipress GR150, is available locally from
Da
6.36
6.42
6.00
6.29
Orkila South Africa. •
Dc
7.67
7.52
7.14
7.44
Ie
2.24
1.90
2.22
2.12
IC
3.42
2.93
3.19
3.18
Icd
9.10
10.00
10.00
9.70
IH
8.97
9.15
9.05
9.06
(α)
4.96
5.09
5.14
5.06
t”
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
%HR
9.30
8.88
9.46
9.21
%H
10.00
10.00
9.98
9.99
%Pf
7.19
7.19
7.39
Iϴ
3.65
2.85
4.30
Key findings to consider
Armor Pharma – www.armor-pharma.com Orkila South Africa – www.orkila.com University of Barcelona – www.ub.edu/web/ub/en
Bearing the 12 galenic parameters in mind, the SeDeM method allows the excipients
REFERENCES:
7.26
to be characterised and defines its strong
1. EMA/CHMP/QWP/805880/2012 Rev. 2
3.60
points to consider during the product
(*)1: Batch P1068GX1, 2: Batch P1062GX1, 3: Batch P1038GX
formula design, especially compressibility and flowability index.
2. Suñé-Negre JM, Roig M, Fuster R, Hernandez C, Ruhi R, GarciaMontoya E, et al. New classification of directly compressible (DC) excipients in function of the SeDeM Diagram Expert System. Int J Pharm. 2014;470(1–2):15–27.
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
37
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Excipients
A smart ingredient
that delivers compliance
The taste of a medicine is an important compliance factor for certain patient groups, including children, the elderly and those with chronic conditions. Beneo says choosing the right filler-binder can enhance overall palatability significantly.
G
The sachet trend Due to its cost-effectiveness and time saving benefits, dry blending of all ingredients without further processing is the most favoured method of drug preparation. Dry blends can be used in
erman company,
galenIQ considerably suppresses the
compression and compaction processes
Beneo’s galenIQ is
bitterness of a quinine hydrochloride
or simply filled into capsules, bottles or
the pharmaceutical
solution. In comparison to maltitol,
sachets. The sachet trend is already
grade of Isomalt – a
mannitol and sucrose, the addition of
becoming evident, with line extensions
disaccharide alcohol derived from
galenIQ (grade 721) in concentrations
of well-established brands increasingly
beet sugar. GalenIQ has a sweetness
as low as three to six percent w/w led
moving into sachets and stick pack
and taste profile very close to sucrose
to a significantly higher reduction in
packaging. This is because dry blends
because of its source material. With
bitterness. It is therefore not surprising
facilitate a convenient and fashionable
its well-balanced sweetness, the filler-
that galenIQ is the excipient of choice
form of drug delivery.
binder has no significant off-tastes
where taste matters.
When developing these powder mixtures for oral application, it is important
or aftertaste.
A range of grades
that bulk excipients fulfil the necessary
of APIs, masks the unpleasant taste
This filler-binder from Beneo, which
requirements, such as excellent flowability,
of ingredients such as plant extracts
is represented throughout southern
low hygroscopicity, high physical stability
and contributes to a palatable,
Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals,
during mixing and high dilution potential
pleasant taste profile and mouthfeel
is primarily considered to be a soluble
and content uniformity, to name just a few.
GalenIQ reduces the bitter taste
in the final pharmaceutical or nutraceutical product. A recent comparative study has shown that
solution for tablets and powdered
DID YOU KNOW?
products. However, the past 10 years have proven it to be a truly multi-functional
Isomalt (galenIQ) is monographed in leading pharmacopoeias (USP-NF, Ph. Eur., BP) and is approved in both Japan (JPE) and China (with an Import Drug License).
Technological benefits With well-defined particle size distribution, galenIQ 720 and 721 provide outstanding
excipient. GalenIQ has
flow and mixing properties. This filler-
been used to coat
binder is the perfect excipient for easy
solid dosage forms, as
tabletting because of its excellent
a component in hot
compactability and high dilution
melt extrusion processes and, most importantly,
it has improved the taste of many medicines, even in liquid applications. The galenIQ product range
potential. At the same time only low compaction forces are required to achieve high tablet hardness. Agglomerated galenIQ is a white, odourless and water soluble material with a unique morphology. The porous
comprises different grades that serve
and large surface areas enable high
a broad variety of dosage forms.
concentrations of active ingredients to
Besides the agglomerated grades
be incorporated without compromising
720 and 721 for direct compression
the flow properties of the final mixture.
and dry blend applications, the 800
These surface structures also prevent
series offers special powder grades of
segregation, even in very low dose
different solubilities and particle size
blends, throughout the whole process,
distributions for wet granulation, roller
ensuring the homogeneity of the
compaction and other agglomeration
mixture and subsequently the required
processes. Sieved grades for starter
content uniformity. •
pellets (galenIQ 960), for pan coating and syrups (galenIQ 981) as well as for medicated confectionery (galenIQ 990) complete the range.
38
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Beneo – www.beneo.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
SAFETY & HYGIENE
How safe is your air?
Smart energy management specialist, Ulilog has launched SafeAir. These ultraviolet air purifying devices are set to improve health and safety in a manufacturing environment.
U
sing ultraviolet germicidal irradiation (UVGI), SafeAir devices ensure clean, healthy indoor air quality by proactively controlling and reducing the
transmission of pathogens such as airborne bacteria, viruses and fungi as well as yeast and mould spores. They also neutralise known carcinogens like volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). According to Ulilog directors, Trevor Williams and Gail Reynolds, SafeAir can be used in conjunction with an HVAC system in a manufacturing environment. The correctly sized and ceiling mounted, fan-assisted, upper room UVGI air purifiers have a deadly effect on microorganisms such as pathogens, viruses and bacteria. Williams explains: ‘The ioniser incorporated in these units remove larger particles from the air, such as dust, mould spores and pollen with minimal ventilation. These neutralised particles drop down or attach to
DID YOU KNOW?
UVGI is a sterilisation method that uses UV light at sufficiently ‘SafeAir customised in-duct or short wavelength to break down portable UVC systems including microorganisms. It is used in dust removal would incorporate a variety of applications, including food, air and the design and implementation of water purification. a filtration system, installed after the
surfaces to be eliminated with normal good practice surface cleaning methods.’ HVAC and upper-room UVGI systems are
UVC/ionisation component of the purifier. The neutralised particles are trapped in the filter allowing only sterilised air to recirculate. The filters
complementary, providing an efficient means to
will need to be replaced as per a maintenance
purify air. ‘The neutralised particles get cycled with
schedule,’ explains Williams. ‘HVAC data and a
the HVAC air and whilst still suspended, a large
site audit would be necessary to design such
percentage get drawn into the ducting and can
customised sterilisation and dust removal
be efficiently filtered by the HVAC filters,’ he adds,
systems. This can be done in the HVAC
advising that normal good practice surface and
system by incorporating the components
filter cleaning must always be maintained with all
and filters within the HVAC ducting.
air purifiers. SafeAir in-duct UVGI systems are designed
The standard range of compact purifiers can be easily fitted onto a
or existing HVAC installations. In this way, SafeAir
ceiling or against a wall. ‘SafeAir is
will kill microorganisms within the HVAC ducting,
extremely safe and emits zero direct
including targeting moist warm corners and filters
radiation in accordance with the new
where microorganisms thrive.
international standard. The National Health Laboratory Service report of
visit would be needed to identify the variables
February 2017 concluded that the two UVGI
such as air flow speeds, ducting size and fresh air
purifiers that were submitted for evaluation
component in order to ascertain and design the
were 100 percent effective in reducing the
UVC dosage necessary to clean the air for the
bacterial count to six log reduction (99 percent)
specific area and risk.
in the laboratory test room, in line with the
High risk areas
SafeAir devices are fitted with UVC lamps that have a life span of three years or 9 000 hrs
and flexible SafeAir ultraviolet air
and positioned for optimum results within new
Reynolds says in-depth HVAC data and a site
A SafeAir ultraviolet air purifier installed in a pharmaceutical manufacturing environment
principal for design as a disinfection system,’ Williams concludes. •
SafeAir units can be customised for cleanrooms and are designed to sterilise and remove dust from high risk areas such as these.
Ulilog – www.ulilog.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
39
SAFETY & HYGIENE
Take the
proactive approach An all-embracing health and safety management programme must ensure that the strict hygiene conditions required in the pharmaceutical industry are enforced daily, throughout the supply chain. Can technology help reduce the risks?
A
A Rentokil employee checking hygiene levels in a customer’s warehouse
As these sites are brought together to create a totally integrated supply chain, the associated risks compound and increase. While this research was conducted specifically on food supply chains, the risks
health and safety
is becoming increasingly difficult to
to a pharmaceutical supply chain are just
management programme
manage. Without the capacity to review
as pertinent.
has a critical role to play in
multiple supply chains, which may make
This analysis shows that of those 200 000
up any single product, maintaining
recommendations:
produces superior, safe, quality
hygiene standards is virtually impossible.
• 45 percent related to sanitation hygiene
products. Advanced technologies
This is where connected technologies
• 19 percent correlated with business
– including remote monitoring, data
can really help. Innovative technological
ensuring that a company
integrity (proofing)
recording and analytics – can provide
systems can deliver data insights that
• six percent linked to storage racking
a real solution to help mitigate hygiene
enable businesses to identify trends
• the remaining 30 percent connected to
risks in increasingly complex modern production chains. Current health and safety plans need to focus on risk reduction across the whole supply chain. Defining control points and control measures that minimise hygiene risks are key to assuring health and safety. Yet the
and trouble spots. Ultimately,
DID YOU KNOW?
this helps organisations to take a more proactive approach to hygiene
Every year, pests cause controls throughout the enormous economic loss in the supply chain. pharmaceutical industry. Contamination Technology, like of pharmaceutical raw materials, Rentokil Initial’s medicines and medical devices not myRentokil online pest only destroys the affected goods and causes production losses, but also management system, results in a devastating loss supports earlier and more of customer trust.
ability to review supply chains from end to end, across multiple locations (sometimes even countries), Rentokil’s technology helps pharmaceutical distributors maintain hygiene standards
proactive risk management
and helps to deal with identified hazards in a quicker and more
other factors. These figures not only correlate directly with non-conformances reported by the major auditing standards bodies like BRC and AIB, but also show clearly what businesses should be focusing on to meet global compliance standards.
Big data insight For this new data to be truly valuable to an organisation, clear reporting and analysis are needed to ensure corrective actions are in place and support a proactive approach to health and safety management.
effective way, reducing the enormous
MyRentokil provides customers with:
commercial impact of unchecked
• trend reporting
risks. Online pest management
• recommendations
systems enable 24/7 monitoring and
• interactive maps
record keeping, ensuring corrective
• analytic tools which support food
interventions are made before infestations take hold.
safety audits Data recorded in myRentokil links pest activity to location and recommendations
Learning from other industries
from all this data creates real insights into
200 000 observations and
hygiene issues and their causes, and
recommendations made across
can be used to proactively ensure that
20 000 customers within food
the hygiene-related health and safety
supply chains across 27 countries.
standards required in a pharmaceutical
Global figures show that nearly a
processing facility are enforced daily. •
quarter of sites involved in a food reported some sort of pest activity.
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
globally. The unique perspective generated
In 2015, Rentokil Initial analysed
supply chain, at any point in time,
40
that extend across thousands of businesses
Rentokil Initial – www.rentokil-initial.co.za
SOUTH AFRICAN
January 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 1
www.pharmacos.co.za
Rotolabel acquires two new companies
South Africa records an increase in plastics recycling
Sorbet Man bags a Gold Pack award
NEWS
Bigger, better and improved is on motivations behind the recent purchase of two
Novus Holdings acquires ITB Manufacturing
have been taking flight in the packaging
new companies by one JSE listed entity. Turn to page
IN JUNE, THE Competition Commission South
industry, in the labelling sector particularly.
44 for the full story on Rotolabel with proudly South
Africa approved the proposed merger between the
A few themes dominating the recent deals
African roots.
two companies which has now come into effect.
ANOTHER YEAR IS upon us; I hope everyone is
other entities during tough economic times but this can
rejuvenated and ready to take on 2018.
be the best time to make investments. The spotlight
As is evident in this edition, acquisitions
are the diversification of these companies’ offerings, complementing existing
Novus Holdings operates in the commercial print and Enjoy the read
manufacturing industries while ITB Manufacturing
services and organic growth.
manufactures and supplies flexible plastic
Acquisitions are after all a key part of corporate development. Many companies are reluctant to pursue
packaging solutions. Assistant Editor
The acquisition forms part of Novus Holdings’
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
Solving stickiness issues on wet wipes UNTIL NOW, ADHESIVES on wet wipe
The company created a step
business strategy to diversify into related and new
Setting the stage for new trends
packs would often fail, leaving the
change with its high solvent resistance
remaining wipes in the pack to dry out.
adhesives, MR980R and UVR155, from
As a result, consumers would lose the
the Select Solutions portfolio. These
BRAND ENHANCEMENT SPECIALIST, API
value of their purchase.
adhesives address the main problem
launched the second edition of its Trends Folio at
with wet wipe closures, which is the
Luxe Pack Monaco in October 2017. This was to
household wipes can’t supply the
vulnerability of the adhesive closure to
underline its status as a provider of highly visual
technical resistance to the solvents
the solvents in wet wipes.
packaging solutions that empower brands. An
‘When an adhesive selected for
(e.g. limonene) used in the wipes,
MR980R provides excellent
evolution of 2016’s acclaimed first edition, the new
the pack cannot be resealed for
functionality on glossy PET packaging.
version of the API Trends Folio outlined the latest
the lifetime of the packaging. This
It is designed to withstand the
trends in luxury and premium packaging – and
means customers cannot properly
chemicals used in household wet
how the intelligent use of foils, laminates and
use the full pack of wipes, leading to
wipes and provides a high strength
holographics can complement them.
disappointment with the purchase and
of adhesion on flexible packaging.
perhaps encouraging them to change
UVR155 is the preferred choice for
drivers identified by API’s global development
to other brands in the future,’ says
matte packaging, often used in baby,
network throughout the year, using the company’s
Jenny Wassenaar, director of Select
facial and toilet wipes. Both adhesives
expertise in technology, categories and brands.
Solutions at Avery Dennison Europe.
have been developed specifically for
It is a key part of how API acts as a creative
challenging wipe applications. They
partner to every brand with which it works. The
offer high to medium initial tack and a
company provides brands with the latest trends’
smooth peel.
information to further their strategic development.
Consumers who buy wet wipes are
The annual API Trends Folio contains key
Updated for 2018 and 2019, the second edition
mainly focused on
features a high-shine silver cover. It retains the
the easy open and
format of its predecessor to present API’s four key
close convenience.
packaging trends. Among these are Neon Storm,
The priority for
which takes inspiration from natural phenomena
manufacturers and brand
such as sunbursts and comet flashes. Diamond
owners is finding cost
Luxe comprises dark lustres and glitters creating
efficient alternatives to
a sense of night time gothic, which powerfully
rigid plastic lids and other
conveys high end luxury.
re-closure solutions.
‘The feedback we had on the first edition was spectacular. With this updated version we are building on that success,’ explains David Peters,
Household wipes are now increasingly used in many different home and personal care applications
42
| JANUARY 2018 | Packaging Review
creative development manager at API. He says the company not only captured the latest trends, but also indicated how trends have evolved.
NEWS
Cosmetics and home care clean up at packaging awards
markets to boost profitability and increase cash flow through sourcing new revenue streams for the group. ‘Acquiring ITB Manufacturing will allow Novus Holdings to access revenue streams outside of the print media sector, which to date has been the source of the majority of our income. This investment in the packaging industry further entrenches us in the broader industrial and manufacturing sectors and is complementary to our existing operations,’ says Keith Vroon, Novus Holdings Group CEO. The group, in conjunction with ITB Manufacturing plans to expand on the current ITB offering and gain organic growth in the flexible plastic packaging and wrap around label sectors. ‘We are delighted to join forces with the group of companies. We look forward to the opportunities of offering an expanded range of packaging solutions with an improved geographical footprint and an enhanced range of products and services from synergies with the technical and production capabilities of Novus Holdings,’ says Tim Stewart, MD Keith Vroo
n
of ITB Manufacturing.
THE HEALTH, BEAUTY and Household category
Shower shaped aerosol can. The judges’ remarks
gold medal winner at this year’s IPSA Gold Pack
were that the shaped can presents a contemporary
Awards ceremony was RPC Astrapak Consupaq
and fresh appeal to support brand promise.
and the Clicks Group for the Sorbet Man 3-in-1
There were four joint bronze winners. RPC
shower gel.
Astrapak Consupaq garnered two of the joint
The tube packs for the range combine foiling,
bronze medals. The one was with brand owner
screen printing and a clear window enabling
Annique for the Rooibos Milk & Honey hand cream
product visibility. This entry demonstrated clean
tube and the other with Johnson & Johnson for the
design and simple lines, which establishes brand
Baby Jelly range.
identity and product differentiation.
Two additional bronze medal recipients were
RPC Astrapak sales and marketing executive,
converter, New Era Packaging with brand owner
Greg Till says the companies are incredibly proud
Amka Products for the Chemico range of cleaning
of the achievement. ‘Congratulations to all who
products and Nampak Divfood with brand owner,
were involved with this project and also to our
Unilever South Africa for the Axe aerosol deodorant
other medal winners and finalists.’
and antiperspirant.
The silver medal was awarded to Nampak
The ceremony was held on 22 November at the
Divfood and Amka Products for the Shower to
Inanda Club in Sandton.
Uniprint continues to boost its digital capacity THE GROWING SECTOR of
After the installation of its first
campaign. This success led to
flagship HP Indigo 20000 to be
digital printing allows print
HP Indigo press, the company
a similar project the following
installed later this month.
suppliers to improve the
purchased an Indigo 6600
year for central, east and
services they offer. It has
press in 2013. This technology
southern African markets with
saving through the wider width
opened up new opportunities,
was installed to produce the
over 600 names printed onto
and larger circumference of
increased sales growth and
Coke Connect labels. It was
300 million labels.
the HP Indigo 20000. We will
enabled printers to provide
the first high volume variable
personalised solutions that
data labels project as 100
digital offering further by
short run work to a “just in
meet customers’ needs.
million labels were produced
upgrading its HP 6600 to the HP
time basis” on the press. The
during the first year. This
6800. Two additional finishing
press will be supported by the
digital labelling early on,
contributed to a significant
lines are also in the process
battery of three finishing lines,’
purchasing its first digital press
sales growth for the soft drinks
of being installed while the
says Grant Hubbard, MD of
more than four years ago.
brand during its summer
company is expecting its
Uniprint Labels.
Uniprint Labels adopted
Uniprint is now taking its
‘We can now offer cost
be able to move mid and
Packaging Review | JANUARY 2018 |
43
LABELLING
The quest to become a one stop shop The labels division of Bidvest Data Print and Packaging, Rotolabel, recently acquired two new companies, S&N Labels and Bartrans. The acquisition was finalised in September 2017. PACKAGING REVIEW speaks to Wicus Maritz, chief executive at Rotolabel, about the motivations behind the purchase. By Aarifah Nosarka
S
&N Labels is a specialist in blank and barcode labels. The acquisition further expands the division’s
product offerings.
Tim and Simon Grisdale, operations executive and managing executive at Rotolabel S&N Labels with Luke Dunstan, GM of Bartrans
Colin Adendorff, CEO at Bidvest Data Print and Packaging says the company
price-marking tools, and
identified a management team at S&N
turnkey projects regarding label
Labels that could add extra value to its
application equipment.
label offering. ‘This is a great business that brings a
Bartrans supplies handheld barcode scanners, mobile
culture of excellent service and great
computers, barcode label printers
customer relationships. It adds a range
and intrinsically safe barcode and
of products we were not strong in. The
mobility solutions. Its products are
acquisition adds great value to the
specifically designed for automatic
organisation as a whole,’ he explains.
identification applications such as
A major benefit, according to Maritz,
Rotolabel’s added technical functions. The target date for complete integration is the end of March.
electronic proof of delivery and direct
is the expansion of Rotolabel’s product
store delivery, field service, inventory
offering. ‘We are able to offer customers
tracking and asset management.
a “one-stop shop” to meet their specific
Bartrans will however continue to operate as a stand-alone business with
Bartrans’ service and repair
requirements regarding labels and
centre is fully equipped
associated services. Having the financial
to carry out repairs and
backing of Bidvest will allow Bartrans to
maintenance and provide
explore various projects in the supply of
support for all Zebra,
scanners and barcoding solutions in the
Honeywell, Datamax O’Neil
warehousing and logistics space.’
and Intermec products.
HOW BARTRANS FITS INTO THE ACQUISITION
Rotolabel technical department
Rotolabel Cape Town is also a
DID YOU KNOW?
S&N Labels’ first machine, a reconditioned one colour flexo die cutter, was purchased in 1998.
‘By integrating the traditional into Bartrans, we are able to offer a
Rotolabel has always had a technical
comprehensive portfolio of technical
offering. This included agencies for
products and services which
supplying and servicing its Toshiba and
complements the labels side of the
Datamax printers. Its technical offering
business,’ Maritz adds.
extends to the supply of thermal transfer ribbons, selling and servicing of METO
TRANSFORMATIONS EXPECTED Rotolabel comprises two business
EARLY DAYS
units, one located in Johannesburg
ROTOLABEL WAS FOUNDED in 1982. It gained
the Rotolabel’s Spartan site situated
distinction in the supply of self-adhesive labels.
on the East Rand of Johannesburg. All
The company was acquired by the Bidvest
S&N Labels’ equipment, products and
Group in 2008. It currently represents the
people will be integrated with that of
labelling solutions division of Bidvest Data, Print
the Johannesburg division. The new
and Packaging.
business unit will be known as Rotolabel
and the other in Cape Town. Bartrans and S&N Labels will be integrated into
S&N Labels.
44
| JANUARY 2018 | Packaging Review
ACCOLADES AND ASPIRATIONS Mellow Colour “impression proof” qualified printer. According to Maritz, this is a world first for flexographic printing. The division installed sophisticated electronic verification hardware and software systems at its premises in both Cape Town and Johannesburg. The company has also transformed its Johannesburg business unit into a pharmaceutical centre of excellence, by equipping it with modern and dedicated machines to produce and inspect booklet and leaflet labels. This includes a sophisticated 100 percent inspection and verification system. Its Cape Town facility is FSC and ISO22000 certified whilst both are ISO9001 accredited. Rotolabel will continue to grow organically. Maritz says there will be a continued search for strategic acquisitions to increase the label division’s footprint, product and solutions offering. •
Rotolabel – www.rotolabel.co.za
LABELLING
Better protection
for trendsetting designs W Anti-counterfeiting measures are necessary due to the high value of cosmetics and the safety and health risks associated with counterfeit pharmaceuticals or cosmetics. PACKAGING REVIEW talks to Grant Hubbard, MD of Uniprint Labels about the brand protection methods the company offers with its new HP Indigo 20000 press.
hilst Uniprint expects pharma
A series of thin curved lines, known as
and cosmetics customers to
Guilloche, interlace to create circular
be particularly interested in the
designs. As the lines are thin and
speed and cost effectiveness of the new
adjacent, reproduction of the picture is
press, the areas of product authentication
made extremely difficult. By matching
and anti-counterfeiting are where the
patterns, using a barcode scanner,
biggest developments can be made.
authentication can be done by the
The HP Indigo 20000 will be installed
consumer or brand inspector. The result
later this month.
is a pattern that matches the design on
‘The quality of counterfeit products
the label.
is astounding. Sophisticated counter
Digital watermarks, comprising marks
measures are now required. The powerful
embedded in a label, hold information
software and printing parameters of digital
that can be magnified and verified
printing offer the best new methods of
by using a plastic lens. If reproduced,
reducing this problem,’ says Hubbard.
the print loses the watermark. A digital watermark can also be changed using
ANTI-COUNTERFEIT OFFERINGS
transparent ink.
Uniprint offers unique codes such as
Red UV invisible ink is used extensively
barcodes, QR Codes and 2D codes, which
in the market for a number of variable
create a response by using a reading
applications, including covert print
device linked to unique content such
and authentication. Owing to demand,
as an expiry date or a website. These
HP has also developed blue and
are used for both track and trace and
yellow invisible inks, which will be
authentication systems.
released soon.
Microtext is also popular. This small text
Closed-loop verification solutions
looks like a thin line or decoration. It is
combine two or more of the above
readable only with a magnifying glass.
core protection method options into a proprietary solution. This can be integrated into the label, packaging or a standalone label. Authenticity can be verified in the trade using handheld devices or cell phone applications. •
The HP Indigo 20000
Uniprint – www.uniprint.co.za
always changing,
Cutting-edge technology and innovative systems combine to deliver a complete offering
52036/UNIPRINT
A Tiso Blackstar Group Brand.
52036_UNIPRINT_Generic_AD.indd 1
46
| JANUARY 2018 | Packaging Review
dedicated to brilliance
Leading the way in comprehensive print solutions, exceptional products and unmatched customer service in the commercial printing industry including: Labels, Packaging, Forms, Elections & Ballots. As one of South Africa’s top accredited printing companies and level 2 BBBEE, our vast experience in printing and advanced systems and procedures, Uniprint operates like a well-oiled machine. Crafted and developed over decades, these finely tuned systems are at the core of our business, guaranteeing the superior level of performance, delivery and customer satisfaction that have become synonymous with our company. Physical Address: 59 Intersite Ave, Umgeni Business Park, Durban, 4001
Tel: 031 560 2300 Email: sales@uniprint.co.za Email: forms@uniprint.co.za Email: labels@uniprint.co.za Email: packaging@uniprint.co.za
2017/12/18 2:42 PM
INDUSTRY TALK
South Africans
industry depends on creating more demand for recycled materials in order
PRIOROTISE RECYCLING
to prevent bottle-necks and stock that does not move off their factory floors,’ he highlights.
DEVELOPING EXPORT MARKETS Whilst weak domestic currency favours the exportation of plastics, only five percent of South Africa’s plastic
recyclate was exported. The South The latest plastics recycling figures released African Plastics Recycling Organisation by Plastics|SA reveal that South Africans (SAPRO) is currently investigating possible cooperation with virgin raw are recycling more plastics than ever material traders who have a footprint before. However, more end markets must in other African countries and be developed to ensure take off for elsewhere in the world. DID recycled materials. YOU KNOW?
A
nton Hanekom, executive director
He says plastics
of Plastics|SA says the results of its
manufacturing and recycling
annual survey into plastics recycling
industries in South Africa and
for the period ending December 2016 reveal
around the world have been taking
there is a growing awareness of recycling
strain over the past two years.
and public pressure to recycle. This has
Recycling one plastic bottle saves enough energy to power a 60W light bulb for six hours.
‘Toward the end of 2016, South
THE WAY FORWARD
South Africa currently makes use of mechanical recycling considering no other commercial facilities exist for alternative plastics recycling.
‘We cannot afford to rest on our laurels or ease up on our recycling
resulted in more post consumer and post
Africa had 204 active recyclers, which
efforts. Not only are brand owners
industrial plastics made available for reuse.
mechanically reprocessed plastics
and international organisations under
materials such as plastic packaging.
increasing pressure to meet their
This provided formal, permanent
sustainability targets, but plastics
employment to 6 140 staff and
recycling also forms an integral part of
supported the informal employment of
the circular economy,’ says Hanekom. •
Toward the end of 2016, South Africa had 204 active recyclers, which mechanically reprocessed plastics materials such as plastic packaging
51 500 waste pickers and collectors. For the first time in many years, recyclers had an oversupply of recyclate in 2016. It is clear that the survival of the
Plastics|SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za
‘Last year, 1.144 million tonnes of recyclable plastic entered the waste stream, of which 41.8 percent was recycled in South Africa based on input tonnages. This is a year-on-year increase of 5.9 percent,’ he explains. During this period, a growing number of organisations and consumer groups became actively involved in upstream collection efforts. This resulted in a positive impact on the number of plastics that were collected and recycled. Recycled tonnages grew by 35 percent since 2011. ‘The increase in recycling that was recorded was not as a result of increased plastic products that entered the market. In fact, 1.518 million tonnes of virgin polymer were converted into products in South Africa during this period – a mere 1.9 percent increase compared to 2015,’ Hanekom adds.
Packaging Review | JANUARY 2018 |
47
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
A memorable year-end for Coschem
T
he Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosted its Johannesburg year-end luncheon on 16 November at Casalinga Restaurant in Muldersdrift, Gauteng. The event offered
guests an unforgettable dining experience and the opportunity to network with old and new faces from the personal care industry.
WHAT’S ON AT COSCHEM IN 2018? FEBRUARY
JULY
5: Dip Cos Science Prize Giving Dinner
Chocolate & Wine Pairing
6: Dip Cos Science Induction Evening
Evening (date TBA)
8: AGM and Council Meeting 15: Soap Refresher MARCH
COSCHEM’S JHB YEAREND IN PICTURES
48
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
AUGUST 15: Ladies Day, Jhb 22: Sun Care Trends and Regulations
Lecture Evening (date TBA) 14: Skin Care Trends Seminar
SEPTEMBER
MAY
18 to 21: IFSCC Conference, Germany
5 to 6: Annual Conference and Gala Dinner 9: Supplier Afternoon 22: Golf Day
OCTOBER 18: Hair Care Seminar
JUNE Men’s Day (date TBA)
NOVEMBER
27: Fragrance Seminar
Year End Luncheon (date TBA)
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Promoting a bright future for fragrances and flavours
The countdown has started to the 16th annual South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry (SAAFFI) seminar, scheduled for 6 March at the Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng.
E
ach year, the fragrances and flavours industry in southern Africa, including those allied to it, such as suppliers of ingredients, equipment and
services, anticipate the announcement of the seminar details. The theme for the 2018 seminar is ‘Motion of no confidence – promoting a bright African future for the flavour and fragrances industry’. The programme will examine many of the synergies and positive factors that make
DID YOU KNOW?
Out-of-town delegates are encouraged to use the Gautrain transport system to get to the seminar venue. This will alleviate any concerns they may have regarding peak hour traffic.
the future of the industry in Africa an exciting one. The full-day programme features an impressive line-up of speakers, a hands-on workshop,
‘Back to the Future’
an inspiring motivational presentation and a
investigated the
networking cocktail event. Not-to-be-missed
trend of reverting
presentations include:
to outdated
• the story behind exotic raw materials harvested in
technical
the wilds of northern Namibia • how the industry can help alleviate the water
and business practices
crisis currently plaguing South Africa, and Cape
as a means of
Town in particular
making progress;
• an honest assessment of ‘how to do business in Africa’ • the latest fragrances and flavours trends.
2016 saw the seminar addressing important emergent trends within Africa, centred on the theme
Networking and information sharing
‘One Africa: demonstrating the
For the last 15 years, the SAAFFI seminar has
tastes and aromas of our continent’. The
attracted around 200 key personnel from the
2017 seminar, themed ‘Fast Forward to
flavours and fragrances industry; FMCG companies,
Slow’, showed how pausing one’s frenetic
that use flavours and fragrances in their products;
lifestyle offers personal benefits, which can
as well as academics, consultants, regulators, raw
be translated into an advantage at work.
materials suppliers and anyone interested in the fascinating world of fragrances and flavours. The day offers a valuable learning and
‘This industry event offers so much for so many,’ says Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of SAAFFI. ‘Those who
networking opportunity to people in management,
attend are sure to take away added skills,
sales, marketing, technical, procurement, R&D,
useful information and a solid dose of
applications, operations and even tertiary
career-oriented motivation. An additional
level students.
attraction is the jam-packed goody bag
Addressing relevant topics of newsworthy interest and confronting thorny business issues have always been the guiding principles of the organising
which each delegate takes home at the end of the day.’ Visit www.saaffi.co.za/events for more
committee. Looking back at the successes of
information and to book your seat for
previous seminars, in 2015 the seminar themed
the event. •
The programme will examine many of the synergies and positive factors that make the future of the industry in Africa an exciting one
P C Review | JANUARY 2018 |
49
Tea time
TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
+27 (0)71 438 1918
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E T H I R T Y F I R S T H C T R R D
CECOSA............................................ 7........ www.cecosa.co.za
Moco Packaging...........................OBC........ www.mocopack.co.za
CIM Chemicals................................ 34........ www.cim.co.za
Rotolabel........................................ 45........ www.rotolabel.co.za
CJP Chemicals................................ 28........ www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Savannah Fine Chemicals............... 23........ sfc-info@savannah.co.za
Crest Chemicals...............................31........ www.crestchemicals.co.za
Sensient....................................... OFC........ www.sensient-cosmetics.com
Evonik............................................. 29........ www.evonik.com
Siyakha Imperial Printing................. 43........ www.labelprint.co.za
IMCD SA......................................... 27........ www.ashland.com
Uniprint........................................... 46........ www.uniprint.co.za
Materia Medica............................... 30........ www.materiamedica.co.za
Verder Pumps.................................IFC........ www.verder.co.za
Merck..............................................19........ www.merck.co.za
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| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
Y T R A P S K R O W E R I F S T Y S
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &
World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of
cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za
Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
NOVOPAK
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
Novopak is a plastic packaging
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,
company that specializes in
cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
manufacturing a complete range
Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.
Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme
Your No. 1 industry leader
offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social
for the most comprehensive
needs and well being.
ranges of both synthetic and
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across
natural colours – used in food,
SA, cosmetics are used as tools
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to address visible side effects of
industrial applications.
treatment to assist patients to
Tablet coatings – manufactured,
restore self-esteem and face the
supplied and marketed globally
world with confidence.
under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.lgfb.co.za
www.quantumcolours.co.za
Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.
Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028