SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
January 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 1
www.pharmacos.co.za
Carving a new path
for clean beauty
HAIR CARE: The personalisation craze is just beginning Shake up your makeup in 2019 Safety & hygiene solutions to benchmark your plant
Biotech Solutions becomes Sartorius South Africa Same Products | Same Service | Same Quality Tel 011.315.5444 | www.sartorius.com
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
14 Beauty cleans
January 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 1
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
BASF updates its Sunscreen Simulator
Scientists develop refrigerated truck to train container
Symrise celebrates angles of innovation
up in 2019
25 SAFETY & HYGIENE
9 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s new in South Africa
11 INDUSTRY TALK
2018 Access to Medicine Index released
12 EVENTS
14 COLOUR COSMETICS Introducing Aquasens Dispersions from Sensient
Functional fillers for beauty products and makeup
Silsoft EAU, Momentive’s new multifunctional ingredient
Quality lipsticks to put on a happy face
Nilfisk helps clean up the pharma industry
Why it’s essential to have good hand hygiene practices
New oil free air compressor installed for Adcock Ingram
Goscor improves its ISO certification
30 HAIR CARE
Register to attend the 2019 P C Review conference
A closer look at Genadvance conditioning ingredients
Novel technology to care for textured hair
Gattefossé untangles the knots with Definicire
30
21 PHARMA FOCUS:
LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES
Merck launches the Steritest Neo Device
Quality guaranteed at Hersol Manufacturing Labs
Analyse CBD oil compounds with Scion’s 456 GC
9 | Volume 45 January 201
Enhance and revitalise hair
| Number 1
W IE V E R g n i g a k c Pa 35
RICAN SOUTH AF
cos.co.za ww w.pharma
37 Events
2018 Gold Pack Awards highlights
38 Bottles, Tubs & Containers
The power of soft touch laminates Bottles Printers diversifies to supply packaging
41 ASSOCIATION NEWS Enhance your
The latest news from SAAFFI and Coschem
brand
ive with innovat bs tu d bottles an
the Gold
om Highlights fr ards Pack Aw
ts Chanel inves c
in Sulapa
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
Connect and network in 2019
H
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Contributors: Nathalie le Blond, Peter Schwab, Uta Kortemeier Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti
appy New Year from the
with a representative from Optiphi – the 2018
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic
competition winner – to attend in-cosmetics
Review team – we wish all
Global 2019.
our readers and advertisers a
prosperous and innovative 2019. Looking back at 2018, one of our greatest
Before I leave you to enjoy this edition, here’s a quick overview of what’s featured this month. In the colour cosmetics
highlights was the P C Review Beauty
section on page 14, we look at Sensient
Trends & Innovation Conference. Brilliant
Cosmetic Technologies’ new innovation,
speakers, fantastic and relevant content,
Aquasens Dispersions; Merck’s functional
and a great deal of excellent feedback are
fillers to shakeup your makeup and the
what made our inaugural conference a
multifunctional additive from Momentive,
massive success. Presentations focused on
Silsoft EAU microgel, which delivers
hot industry topics such as how to maximise
sought after benefits in aqueous colour
social media with the right content,
cosmetics formulations.
e-commerce tips, regulatory compliance,
Our pharma focus is centred on
formulating for Africa’s millennials,
laboratory equipment and services. Turn
consumer insights and great case studies
to page 21 to read about the new Steritest
on digital marketing victories.
Neo device and Scion Instruments’ 456
This year, we will take things up a notch at the P C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference where we will unpack
GC, which is equipped to analyse various compounds in cannabis oil. To help our readers protect their workforce
ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM
some of the current issues buzzing about
and maintain hygienic standards throughout
the industry. These include clean label;
their manufacturing facilities, an array of
inclusive beauty; beauty influencers; brand
solutions and tips are featured on page 25 in
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za
protection solutions; compliant beauty; the
our section on safety and hygiene.
Production Controller: Pam Moodley
importance of safety, efficacy and stability
Ingredients to condition textured hair
General Manager: Dev Naidoo
Art Director: David Kyslinger
testing and how to connect with African
are the major focus in the hair care feature
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
brands and consumers.
on page 30. Interesting reads include
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
Turn to page 12 now to read about the
the article on Clariant’s Genadvance
speakers confirmed to present at our 2019
conditioning ingredients and Evonik’s novel
conference. Details to register for the event
technology to care for textured hair.
are also included in our conference preview. Entries are open for the 2019 P C
Enjoy the read!
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR
Review/Symrise New Product Competition
Aileen Lamb
– turn to page 13 for more information on
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
how to enter. The main prize is a trip to
Bridget McCarney
in-cosmetics Global in 2020. I’m looking
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
forward to travelling to Paris, France, in April
John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Join us for the
Beauty Business & Partners 2 019
Learn from eight beauty, business and industry experts in one inspiring day to discover what it takes to run a successful company in tough economic times.
CO N F E R E N C E
• One unmissable session on the dark issue of black market beauty and how to protect your brand with anti-counterfeiting solutions. • The following topics will also feature on the conference programme: 1. Cleaner beauty – the rise of natural ingredients, sustainable sourcing and cold processing 2. The future of beauty marketing and advertising – insight into the ASA liquidation and how to develop a marketing strategy where compliance transcends all platforms 3. Compliant beauty – the PIF and safety assessment journey of one independently owned, local brand and how the company transitioned from self-regulated to EU compliant 4. Beauty influencers – the good, the instafamous and the greedy
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW Date:
Thursday, 21 February 2019
Time:
08h30 to 16h00
Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa • Cost: R1 295. • You will receive more information on the conference programme and speakers once
5. Private label – how one brand made it big on the basis of added value
you have booked and paid for your seat.
6. Safety, efficacy and stability – what is required, how much does it cost and why is it necessary?
Send an e-mail to abby.vorster@newmedia.
7. How to connect with African brands and consumers – first-hand advice on doing business in the beauty industry, beyond the South African border
co.za for more information.
NEWS
WALK IN MY SHOES INITIATIVE INSPIRES ASPEN TO GIVE BACK IN PARTNERSHIP WITH Aspen Pharmacare South Africa, the Morris Isaacson Centre for Music in Jabavu, Soweto, recently hosted the launch of the Walk in My Shoes initiative. The aim of the initiative, conceptualised by Masingita Masunga, is to unite society by donating shoes to children who are the less fortunate. Born in Giyani, Limpopo, Masunga is a former TV presenter, motivational speaker and philanthropist. Despite living with cerebral palsy – a disorder that impairs movement and affects muscle tone or posture – Masunga managed to summit Mount Kilimanjaro earlier this year. Her drive and ambition caught the attention of Stavros Nicolaou, senior executive: strategic trade at the Aspen Pharmacare Group and the deputy minister of communications, Pinky Kekana. ‘It was a discussion on how to unite South Africans that led to both Nicolaou and Kekana to come on board and support
this great campaign. The Walk in My Shoes initiative is about breaking barriers, embracing our differences and bringing the nation together to drive a common national agenda,’ says Masunga. On 16 December, Masunga commenced on her next brave Walk in My Shoes journey, driving from South Africa to Cairo, Egypt. This is a massive challenge for Masunga as it took her eight years to get her driver’s license. ‘When you think of ways in which to make this country better, people like Masunga instantly come to mind. Her achievements are incredible. She is truly inspirational and continues to beat the odds. Aspen’s values are about building sustainable communities and cohesive societies, which is why we are fully backing this initiative,’ says Nicolaou. Like the Walkinmyshoes page on Facebook, to support Masunga’s initiative and to follow her on her journeys.
Sunscreen Simulator updated with new features BASF HAS REVISED its Sunscreen Simulator – the digital lab for sun care formulations – making it more user-friendly and versatile. The internet-based solution, which enables formulators to explore the performance of sunscreens under development before starting costly in vitro and in vivo studies, now features immediate dynamic calculations and a side by side comparison of multiple formulations, among other enhancements. BASF’s Sunscreen Simulator supports sunscreen manufacturers all over the world in reducing their products’ time to market. The Sunscreen Simulator is now responsive to all screen sizes, making it easy to use on smartphones and tablets as well as desktop computers. Users can customise their simulator platforms according to individual needs by adjusting parameters such as sun
protection factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet A (UVA) metrics, region and application amount. Favourites and projects are easy to save for future reference and data can be exported, either in PDF or Excel format. Over the past 20 years, the tool has become an industry benchmark and is continuously improved. Even before the current update, the tool allowed users to conduct unlimited in-silico experiments to simulate key characteristics of formulations. These simulations provide insights into aspects such as the photo-interaction of different UV filters to confirm photostability, or the effects of boosting through UV filter partitioning in water and oil phases and the scattering of particulate UV filters. The Sunscreen Simulator also gives users access to BASF’s UV filter portfolio. To explore the benefits and learn more, visit www.sunscreensimulator.basf. com/Sunscreen_Simulator.
ANDERSON ENGINEERING RECOGNISED FOR NBI EXPANSION PROJECT Charles Cammell, chairman of Sassda (left) with Hennie de Jager and John Tarboton, executive director of SASSDA (right)
LAST YEAR, ON 25 October Anderson Engineering received two prestigious Sassda Columbus Stainless Awards from the Southern Africa Stainless Steel Development Association (Sassda). A total of 189
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| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
entries were submitted by 53 companies, resulting in a stellar list of more than 60 finalists. The winning Product Development Award was presented to the company for the new Anderson Engineering Combo Emulsi Mixer (ACE Mixer), for its breakthrough design. The company was also named second runner-up in the Engineering category for its contribution to the recently completed National Bioproducts Institute (NBI) expansion project. Anderson Engineering was recognised for using stainless steel in all its forms and
for demonstrating a faultless example of precision and clinical engineering. Hennie de Jager, MD of Anderson Engineering, comments: ‘I could not be more proud of our team. The design and fabrication of the new ACE Mixer combines our years of experience in emulsification, effective technology and innovation to engineer this ultra-hygienic mixing solution. In addition, our work on NBI epitomises what we as a company do best – which is ultra-hygienic precision and clinical engineering. To be recognised by SASSDA for our work in these areas and to have received these awards, is truly fantastic and enables us to celebrate our world-class engineering.’
NEWS JARDIANCE NAMED 2018’S BEST INTERNATIONAL PHARMA PRODUCT BOEHRINGER INGELHEIM’S SODIUMGLUCOSE co-transporter 2 (SGLT-2) inhibitor, Jardiance (empagliflozin) won the 2018 Prix Galien International Award in the category Best Pharmaceutical Product. The Prix Galien Award is presented by the Galien Foundation in recognition of excellence in scientific innovation and outstanding achievement in improving the human condition through the development of innovative therapies. Worldwide, it is regarded as the equivalent of the Nobel prize in biopharmaceutical and medical technology research.1,2; 1. a,b,c,f; 2.a The nominees, selected by an independent committee of distinguished researchers and academics, must demonstrate tremendous potential to impact human health. 2; 2. c,d Winners of the Prix Galien Award were announced on
SCIENTISTS DEVELOP REFRIGERATED TRUCK TO TRAIN CONTAINER EXPERTS FROM THE University of Birmingham worked with one of China’s biggest railway rolling stock companies to develop the world’s first shipping container using materials that store and release cold energy. Using phase change material (PCM), the scientists and their counterparts from CRRC Shijiazhuang developed the container, which is not only more efficient and easier to operate than conventional equipment, but also a world first. Once charged, PCM inside the container – which can be transferred from train to truck and vice versa – can maintain the temperature between five and 12 degrees Celsius for up to 120 hours. The technology recently underwent commercial trials, transporting real goods across different climate zones for 35 000km of road and 1 000km of rail. Professor Yulong Ding, director of the Birmingham Centre for Energy Storage, led the research at the university. ‘Energy storage is an area of world leading expertise at the University of Birmingham and cold chain technologies research is one of the most important topics at our Centre for Energy Storage,’ Prof Ding explains. ‘We have developed a productive collaboration with CRRC Shijiazhuang. This innovative technology marks the beginning of
developing an efficient and economic rail and road freight cold chain. We are proud to contribute to the development of safe and clean low carbon energy technologies in China and beyond.’ Cooling is essential to modern society, but it causes twice the global greenhouse emissions of shipping and aviation combined. If left unchecked, increasing the demand for cooling will result in spiralling energy usage with a potentially disastrous environmental impact. ‘Without an ambitious intervention, research shows the energy demand from cooling could increase five-fold by 2050, putting more pressure on global energy resources,’ he adds. ‘How the world meets its demand for cooling could have a major impact on climate change and air pollution.” Several cold chain logistics companies in China have expressed their interest in the container, which provides a more stable temperature when compared to mechanical units. This results in higher quality of goods delivered at their destination. The container does not require power supply during its journey, simplifying the transfer from road to rail. The container’s location and temperature can also be monitored in real time using mobile communication technologies.
28 November at an inaugural event in Dakar, Senegal. This was the first time the annual award has been presented on the African continent. Jardiance was selected from among 20 other innovative nominees, representing advancements in diabetes, spinal muscular atrophy and acquired immunodeficiency syndrome.1,2; 1. e; 2. B ‘We are thrilled the international community has recognised the benefits of Jardiance,’ says Dr Michael Klein, medical director of Boehringer Ingelheim, South Africa. ‘The presentation of the award on African soil is also particularly fitting and representative of our sincere commitment to the health and wellbeing of the people of South Africa and of those on the African continent.’
References available on request
FIRST INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON ORAL CARE INNOVATION BRIDGING THE GAP between industry and research, Omya will host the first ever expert oral care summit on 23 May 2019 at the Seehotel Lucerne, Switzerland. Registration is now open at healthybite.omya.com for specialists in oral care applications, such as manufacturers, formulators and sales and marketing managers. Attendees can expect to learn from leading experts about latest developments in R&D, clinical research, materials science and consumer trends in the oral care segment. Omya will also present technical and expert marketing knowledge from its valued industrial partners. Networking time will round up the gathering, which is intended to be an exciting new forum for specialists involved in different aspects of dental health. The formulation of oral care products is a fascinating and vibrant field, and it’s growing every year. Yet there has never been a platform for focused exchange on the latest findings in the field of additives and ingredients. Omya, represented in South Africa by CJP Chemicals, will change this with its Healthy Bite Conference, which will bring together leading experts from all over the world in the fields of functional and active ingredients for oral care formulations. New findings and solutions will be on display and presented to manufacturers and
brand owners to support cutting edge innovations and economic advantages. An exclusive evening event will provide invaluable time for discussion and networking, making this new forum a great meeting point fellow experts to making contact and discovering the latest findings. Confirmed speakers for the Healthy Bite conference are: • Prof Dr Pekka Vallittu, lecturer in biomaterials science at the University of Turku, Finland • Dr Andreas Kiesow, head of research group materials science for dentistry and cosmetics and deputy head of department, biological and macromolecular materials, at the Fraunhofer Institute, Halle, Germany • Dr Peter Hall, laboratory director at Intertek Clinical Research Services, Hooton, UK • Adrien Dromard, oral care marketing and technology consultant with 30 years’ experience in diverse positions in the segment. In addition, Mintel, a leading global market research agency, will report on the latest oral care trends and consumer demands worldwide. •
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
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NEWS
Sanofi announces tuberculosis tech challenge winner ONE OF THE greatest challenges in the fight against TB mortality is adherence to TB treatment and completion of the course of treatment. Last year, Sanofi launched a technology innovation challenge for tech startups to design a cost-effective, multi-device and multi-channel solution that will assist patients to optimise their TB treatment. The solution also needs to incentivise patients to complete their treatment. Iyeza Health was named the winner of the challenge at the AfricArena Technology Conference held in November at Century City, Cape Town. ‘At Sanofi, we have focused our efforts on ensuring patient care and adherence to treatment are at the forefront of the fight against TB. We want to work with Africa’s best technology innovators to ensure patients have more access to their treatment so they can complete their TB treatment journey and enjoy full recovery,’ says Thibault Crosnier Leconte, Sanofi country chair
and RX GM for South Africa, Namibia and Botswana. After a rigorous selection process by Sanofi executives, three finalists were chosen from the full list of challenge entrants. The finalists were Technovera, Aquity Innovations and Iyeza Health. During the conference, each startup pitched its innovation to a panel of top Sanofi executives and key external stakeholders. The winning startup, Iyeza Health was founded by Sizwe Nzima when he was just 21. The idea came to him one day when he was collecting medication for his grandparents at a local clinic. From just one customer in 2013, Iyeza Health now delivers muchneeded medication to over 1 000 people in Khayelitsha, in Cape Town. This innovation project addresses patient compliance with chronic medication in highly congested clinics, which are
often found in low-income communities. Currently, up to 25 percent of patients are missing their medication collection day because of the inconvenience attached to collection. ‘We are very excited to have been a part of this challenge. Our innovation has always been geared towards making a real impact in the fight against Tuberculosis. We look forward to a constructive partnership with Sanofi to ensure that our innovation becomes more accessible across the continent,’ Nzima comments.
Sanofi’s Angie Naidoo Sanofi with Sizwe Nzima of Iyeza Health and Sanofi’s Prudence Selani
SUSTAINABILITY, SUCCESS AND NEW IDEAS IN 2019 René Hemeier (back row, third from the left) with Symrise’s scent and care team in South Africa
SYMRISE WORKS WITH its customers to develop new ideas and market-ready concepts for products indispensable to everyday life. Its innovative business approach is applied worldwide, combining its global expertise with local knowledge. In South Africa, its Scent and Care team has extensive local market knowledge, which spans both the South African and East and West African markets. ‘Africa is the big glass frontier that cannot be ignored,’ says Symrise’s vice president of fragrances for Africa, the Middle East and Turkey, René Hemeier, who visited South Africa in November. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review caught up with Hemeier during his stay to talk about key developments and the four angles of innovation at Symrise.
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| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Symrise continues to invest in R&D to develop cost-effective and performant fragrances. The company is also a leader in delivery systems and encapsulation for home care, deo and hair care applications and is focussing on increasing its basket of halal compliant ingredients. ‘Backward integration to overcome raw material shortages and drive an increasingly sustainable and traceable ingredients supply chain is of central significance to Symrise,’ Hemeier explains. ‘We are working with many precious raw materials and create inspiring fragrances and flavours with and from them. They form the basis of our business model and the heart of many consumer-loved products. For this reason, sustainability forms an inherent part of our DNA.’ Investing in its expertise and capabilities is also central to the company’s continued success. Subsequent to capability and capacity enhancements in 2018 in its Scent
and Care team in South Africa, Symrise is well equipped to support the growth of multinational and private label brands in the African market. ‘By combining our global expertise and capabilities in evaluation and compounding with local market knowledge, Symrise is best equipped to answer clients’ briefs in the EMEA region. Eventually we would love to have an African perfumer attend the Symrise Perfumery School in Holzminden, Germany – someone who is culturally bound to Africa and with deeply entrenched African knowledge.’ Hemeier says emerging markets are at the heart of Symrise’s growth plans. ‘In 2019, the company will continue to invest selectively to serve the EMEA region. This includes investing in a production centre in China and expanding our facility in Nigeria with a fragrance library and new application laboratories to serve both the fragrances and flavours markets.’
STREET 1
1 New from Bio-Oil Specialist skin care brand Bio-Oil has launched its first innovation in its 30-year history. Bio-Oil Dry Skin Gel is a revolutionary oil-based formulation clinically proven to significantly improve dry skin. This next generation dry skin treatment improves on the existing technology of creams, lotions and body butters by replacing the in-active water in these formulations, which is usually around 70 percent, with oil. This makes the product 100 percent active and results in the breakthrough new gel format of the product. Bio-Oil
2
3
Dry Skin Gel is available at pharmacies and select retail outlets nationwide. Visit www.bio-oil.com for more info.
2 Scents of summer Clere’s Limited Edition Tropical Fruits body crème and lotion are formulated with an infusion of fruity fragrances, including citrus, coconut and tropical notes. The rich gel formulation of Clere’s Tropical Fruits body lotion promises to care for skin. It is enhanced with NutriRich, which is a combination of glycerine gel, tissue oil, vitamins E and A and natural moisturising factors for soft, smooth and beautiful looking skin. The body crème is also enriched with glycerine gel and vitamins A and E to help skin retain moisture for up to 48 hours.
3 An energetic fizz NRF B-Complex fizzy is a cranberry flavoured effervescent tablet with antioxidants to boost energy and prevent afternoon slumps. Each tablet is formulated with B1 (thiamine) to ensure the body can produce new and healthy cells, B2 (riboflavin) to help prevent ageing and reduce the risk of heart
4
disease and B3 (niacin) to help increase the levels of good cholesterol in the blood and to assist with skin conditions such as acne. The fizzies also contain vitamins B5, 6, 7 and 12 as well as folic acid. NRF B-Complex effervescent tablets are available from most leading wholesalers.
4 Three steps to firmer skin Celltone has just launched a three step anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing system. The system includes a day cream, night serum and mask formulated with naturally derived collagen and keratin to visibly firm the skin. During panel testing of the new products, 94 percent of respondents said ‘Celltone Collagen Boost+ improved the appearance of their wrinkles’. Celltone products are available from Dischem, Clicks, Pick ‘n Pay, Game, RED Square, Edgars and independent pharmacies.
5 Scented home collection
5
One of South Africa’s leading beauty salon brands, Sorbet has launched a home collection of artisanal diffusers and candles. The products are made from authentic raw materials and natural scents to transform any living space. The Sorbet Home Waterfall range offers the swish of open-air bliss with a hint of the ocean. The Orient range boasts notes of caramel and sweet dates to gently transport you to a faraway land. Charming and enchanting, the Sorbet Home Chestnut range is based on the spicy scent of red earth rubies. The new Sorbet Home Collection can be purchased at all Sorbet stores nationwide. P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
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14 March Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand www.saaffi.co.za
CosmoPack + Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics 14 to 17 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack
Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association AGM
28 March Hurlingham Office Park, Johannesburg
Nedbank Seapoint
Branch Code: 10-69-09-00
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TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.
April
in-cosmetics Global
2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Beauty World Middle East 15 to 17 April Dubai, UAE www.beautyworldme.com
Beauty Kenya
26 to 28 April Sarit Expo Centre, Nairobi, Kenya www.growexh.com/beautykenya 10
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
INDUSTRY TALK
Removing barriers to bring medicines within everyone’s reach Multinational pharma companies have deepened their strategic focus on Africa, doing more business in the region to benefit lower income groups. This is according to the 2018 Access to Medicine Index.
T
he Access to Medicine Index ranks 20 of the world’s
largest research-based pharma companies on how they are improving access to medicine in low and middle income
DID YOU KNOW?
Globally, two billion people cannot access medicines they need. Each year, millions of people in low and middle income countries die from diseases because the vaccines, medicines and diagnostic tests are either unavailable or unaffordable. Source: 2018 Access to Medicine Index are supported by lower interest
countries. In 2018, the index found four of these companies had
loans provided savings are distributed. They sell oral health, pain
Novartis’ ComHIP works with private medicinal shops to offer blood pressure screenings in Ghana
Africa and then, China. Overall, the Index analysed 141 capacity building initiatives in African countries. The Index analysis only
implemented or expanded commercial
control, contraceptive and other health-
includes initiatives that meet regional needs
models in Africa which serve people
related products, together with goods
for specific capacities and cover 50 of the
in very low-income brackets. Several
such as cooking stoves.
54 African countries. Of these, 22 countries
of these models focus on products for
have no initiatives that qualified for analysis.
heart disease, diabetes and other non-
Capacity building
communicable diseases, which are on
Pharma companies are also providing
Product availability gap
the rise globally.
support to build the capacity of
A medicine or vaccine can only be
healthcare systems and supply chains
marketed in a country once it has been
Regional initiatives
in African countries. According to the
registered for sale. Yet the Index finds
In Ghana, Novartis is working with
Index, these initiatives are diverse. As an
important gaps in the registration of new
private medicinal shops in the region to
example, Takeda works with the Kenyan
innovative products in African countries.
make blood pressure screening more
Ministry of Health and other partners
While some countries have seen new
convenient and to dispense medicines
to ensure more people can access
products being filed, such as Nigeria,
from within the community. High blood
cancer care services. In Ghana, Merck
Ethiopia, Uganda and Tanzania, there
pressure or hypertension is a major risk
is working with partners including the
are 13 countries across Africa with no
factor for heart disease and affects up
government to establish a new vaccine
new product registrations identified
to 36 percent of adults in Ghana, where
manufacturing plant. Capacity building
by the Index, including Sudan, South
long and costly journeys often prevent
efforts are critical for advancing universal
Sudan, Angola and Somalia, which
people from accessing the healthcare
health coverage (UHC).
together are home to 150 million people.
they need.
‘The Index first noted pharmaceutical
One factor that promises to improve
companies taking a strategic interest
this situation is the creation of the new
set up healthcare centres throughout
in Africa in 2014,’ says Gabrielle
African Medicines Agency (AMA), which
Kenya. Deemed the Curafa Programme,
Breugelmans, director of research at the
has been tasked with speeding up the
these centres are already operational in
Access to Medicine Foundation, which
registration process of pharma products
Kiambu, Kajiado, Machakos, Makueni
publishes the Index. ‘Now we see signs
across Africa.
and Mombasa. Each provides pharmacy
that this interest is deepening. The next
and nursing services, as well as insurance
challenge is to ensure the best ideas
and working with local partners – we see this
schemes and financing for healthcare.
benefit the poorest people.’
as a good sign of long-term commitments
Merck is expanding its initiative to
In Zambia, GSK’s Live Well programme
Companies generally first invest in
‘Companies are deepening their focus
to improving health,’ says Jayasree Iyer,
trains people within the region to be
capacity building in markets where there
executive director of the Access to Medicine
community health entrepreneurs to
is commercial potential. In the Index
Foundation. ‘To radically ramp up progress,
provide affordable healthcare products
analysis, Kenya has the most capacity
more companies must stay engaged for the
to their communities. These entrepreneurs
building initiatives, followed by South
long haul.’ •
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
11
EVENTS
Have you booked your conference seat?
Following the successful P C Review Beauty Trends & Innovations Conference in 2018, this year’s event will provide the No.1 meeting place for beauty brands and industry partners. Join us on 21 February to source exceptional business specific content from eight business and industry experts in one inspiring day.
A
variety of industry leading
acting principle investigator for the topical
ensure more inclusivity
speakers have been confirmed
product clinical trials performed at the NWU.
and diversity.
for the P C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference.
Speaking again on this year’s conference
Beverley Gardner
programme, Leandri van der Wat, R&D
will share her immense
The programme will feature discussions
manager at Skin Rejuvenation Technologies,
knowledge on beauty
on some of the hottest topics including
will qualm the fears of those brand owners
brands in Africa and
clean label; inclusive beauty; beauty
who feel daunted by the requirements to
how to connect with
influencers; brand protection
become compliant. In
them. After taking
solutions; compliant beauty; the
2018, Leandri and the
a sabbatical, Beverley Gardner joined
importance of safety, efficacy
team at Skin Rejuvenation
Iberchem at the end of last year, to establish
and stability testing; how to
Technologies started
its sub-Saharan Africa office. Iberchem is
connect with African brands and
an extensive journey
a leading global fragrance manufacturer,
consumers and much more.
compiling product
The conference will be
Beverley Ga rdner
information files and
Lea nd ri va n d e r Wa t
Yasmin Kathoria
which has been creating engaging scents for brands since 1985. Before joining
hosted at the Media Park
undergoing safety
Auditorium in Auckland Park,
assessments of its new range of aesthetic
South Africa for 10 years, managing sales
Johannesburg. To book your seat for R1 295
skin care products, Optiphi Delta. At our
for sub-Saharan Africa for the cosmetics,
per person, excluding VAT, send an email
conference, Leandri will share the story
fragrance and aroma molecules divisions.
to abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.
about how an independently owned, local
She is passionate about all things African
brand transitioned from self-regulated to
and extremely well connected in the African
EU compliant.
personal care industry.
beauty, hair care, cosmetics and personal
Make the right connections
care industry.
P C Review is excited to have the co-
Clean beauty and protected brands
The event will also include a select group of exhibitors, which will showcase
Iberchem, Beverley worked at Symrise
their products and solutions for the
founder of Beauty Revolution, Yasmin
The session on clean beauty will be
Spotlight on compliance
Kathoria, on the conference programme to
presented by trained health and skin
With legislation on the cards for the
help beauty brands find more ways to work
care therapist, Charlene Weidner, who
cosmetics industry – governed by the
with social media influencers. Yasmin, who is
currently works in the retail space as
National Department of Health – all finished
also a business humaniser @ Innate Motion,
a consultant developer of organic
products, including their ingredients, will
was previously a global brand director
and natural skin care products and
have to undergo a safety assessment before
at Unilever for purpose branding
nutraceuticals. Charlene is
they can be put on the market.
and sustainability.
fascinated by the development in
Anina van der Walt, head of regulatory
As a brand visionary, strategic
the wellness and natural skin care
affairs & policy analysis at the Cosmetic,
shaper, creative leader and
world. She has made it her mission
Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA), will
influencer, Yasmin brings global
to understand global natural
set the record straight on the ins
expertise in building brands with
and outs of safety, efficacy and
purpose and citizen participation.
stability testing.
She has worked at the forefront of
Anina is a registered
Charlene Weidner
branding and marketing for 15 years
and organic developments and has travelled to seminars abroad to understand this fast moving industry.
pharmacist. Before joining
and consults to some of the world’s biggest
the CTFA, she worked as a
brands and businesses. Her latest project –
sessions include the dark issue of
business unit manager and
Beauty Revolution – is a growth launchpad
black market beauty and how anti-
subject specialist at the North
for the South African beauty community,
counterfeiting solutions can protect
West University (NWU) where she was
namely beauty startups, bloggers, insta-stars,
beauty brands throughout the supply
responsible for business and clinical project
hair stylists, hair and beauty brands, retailers
chain, the future of beauty marketing and
management and in vivo clinical trial
and makeup artists. The festival’s purpose
advertising in the online space and how
protocol development. She was also the
begins with using social media in order to
to develop a marketing strategy where
NWU-HREC assigned CEL project leader and
change the conversation around beauty to
compliance transcends all platforms. •
An ina va n der Wa lt
12
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Additional not to be missed conference
STATEMENT Launched a new product in 2018/19
about it ENTRIES NOW OPEN
2019
New Product Competition Contact Abby Vorster : Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281
COLOUR COSMETICS
Beauty cleans up in 2019 It can be challenging to stand out and stay relevant in the crowded beauty landscape. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies offers a range of modern solutions, which are not only on trend but also safe for the environment and human use.
P
erformance driven, effective
black hawk mascara, silver aqua flash hair
manufacturers. Athleisure beauty products
and safe – clean beauty – one
varnish and flamingo pink mascara (see
target health-conscious, active consumers.
of the hottest trends to hit the
Table 1 for the formulation guide). The latter
The makeup products are waterproof and
makeup category – goes beyond
– coloured mascara – has made a major
sweatproof because they’re designed for
natural expectations. Clean makeup is
comeback. High-end brands like Lancôme
exercise while athleisure skin care targets the
seeing brands designing products with
and retail pharmacy favourites such
pre and post workout needs of the skin.
botanical ingredients and safe synthetics
as Essence have all launched vibrantly
to ensure they go above and beyond the
coloured mascaras in everything from neon
increasingly active lifestyles, Sensient
expectations of ‘natural’.
and metallic shades to the less daring navy
Cosmetic Technologies has rounded up
blue, purple and brown options.
a range of high tech ingredients to help
Recognising growing challenges for formulators to create clean beauty
In order to keep up with consumers’
South African beauty products refocus on
products with innovative textures, Sensient
Beyond long wear
Cosmetic Technologies launched
The athleisure trend is changing the makeup
Aquasens Dispersions in 2018. This new
world. According to Sensient Cosmetic
a combination of both hydrophobic and
generation of water-based dispersions
Technologies’ market insights, long wear
hydrophilic surface treated pigments is
overcomes the issues associated with
foundation sales rose 13 percent in 2018,
required. This is because hydrophilic surface
creating a water based dispersion without
while basic foundations are on the decline.
treated pigments have been known to
glycerine. The dispersions also provide
While athleisure has been in force
excellent stability without sedimentation or
globally for over a year, the trend has only
caking while offering a guaranteed stable
just caught on among local brands and
product performance. In order to withstand an intense work-out,
handle sweat poorly, presenting limitations in a gym environment. Perfluoro compounds are excellent
rheological profile throughout a product’s
candidates, yet these molecules are
two year shelf life.
not created equal. While two of the
With Aquasens Dispersions, beauty
compounds, Perflurooctanoic Acid (PFOA)
brands can transform their mascara
and Perfluorooctane Sulphonic Acid (PFOS)
and nail polish products, ensuring
are known to persist in a gym environment,
they are not only eco friendly,
they are restricted in certain markets due
vegan and safe to use but also
to their environmental impact. So Sensient
highly effective.
Cosmetic Technologies has created FSP
The dispersions are available
(INCI: CI (and) Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane
in white, red and black shade
(and) Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether),
and are based on Titanium
a new environmentally friendly solution.
Dioxide, Carbon Black and
FSP is a double coated surface treatment
D&C Red 30. Sensient Cosmetic
for pigments. FluoroSilane is chemically
Technologies launched a variety
bound to the pigment, providing
of formulations to demonstrate
hydrophobicity and lipophobicity, while a
the technical advantages and
polymer is mechanically deposited on the
compatibility of the Aquasens range.
surface to provide soft touch as well as
These included an aqua flash nail colour,
additional lipophobicity.
14
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
COLOUR COSMETICS This new structure has the unique
product. These ingredients are usually
advantage of combining high long wear
added for their smoothing and softening
properties and excellent sensorial benefits in
properties and encompass a broad
powder and emulsion makeup formulations.
range of molecules that can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or silicon based. Their impact on
Feel the beauty
texture varies depending on their molecular
With today’s consumers, it’s all about the
weight, polarity and chemical composition.
experience. Harvard Business Review says
Natpure Feel M-Eco from Sensient
brands that skilfully manage the entire
Cosmetic Technologies is an example of
experience associated with their products
a natural emollient that combines the
can reap enormous rewards. These include
conditioning and moisturising benefits
‘enhanced customer satisfaction, reduced
of esters while providing a silicone-like
churn and increased revenue’.
lightness upon application.
These big benefits show us just how
Emulsifiers are molecules, or
important experience is to buyers. But
combinations of molecules, which will
what makes customer experience such a
stabilise an emulsion by structuring its
powerful driver for beauty purchases and
different phases (aqueous phase, oil phase
beauty brand loyalty? Sensient Cosmetic
or the silicone phase etc). In cosmetics
Technologies believes there are several
applications, most emulsifiers work by
reasons. An engaging sensorial experience
modifying the viscosity of the phases and
will involve as many senses as possible and
reducing the interfacial tensions between
when it comes to cosmetics, these senses
them. As they modify the structure of the
are sight, touch and smell. For example,
emulsion, emulsifiers improve the sensorial
think of the extra attention brands pay to
properties of the application by modifying
their packaging, as it is often through the
thickness or softness.
secondary container that consumers see
With Aquasens Dispersions, beauty brands can transform their products, ensuring they are not only eco friendly but also safe to use Micro-spherical powders are often
Gelling agents, also called thickeners
used as feel enhancers in makeup and
first. The sense of touch is also important as
or stabilisers, are ingredients that dissolve
sometimes in skin care applications. The
it is involved from the pick-up of the cream
in one phase to form a weakly cohesive
sensorial performances of these fillers are
structure, modifying a product’s rheology.
driven by the shape, size and chemical
completely absorbed, leaving
Going beyond the simple adjustment of
nature of the beads. Covabead Velvet 10
a unique after-feel. Texture
viscosity, modern thickeners can deeply
is made of unique polymethylmethacrylate
not only conveys a sense of
transform a texture to create unexpected
mono-dispersed beads that provide a
efficacy but also luxury and it
experiences for consumers. Covacryl
superior ball-bearing effect compared to
AC – a sodium polyacrylate gelling
traditional PMMA beads and creates an
agent – creates stringy serums that have
instant soft focus visual effect on skin. •
until well after the product has been
can differentiate one brand from competitor options. To rise to the challenge, there
become very popular in the K beauty
are many tools available to
movement. Alternately, Covacryl MV60
formulators to obtain a desired
provides moderate gelling benefits while
feel when designing a new
contributing to a soft after-feel.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
Table 1: SCT2181/2 flamingo pink mascara
Phase
A
B
Product name
INCI
Synthetic beeswax
Synthetic Beeswax
8.00
Carnauba wax T1
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
5.00
Stearic acid
Stearic Acid
3.00
Huile de ricin
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
3.00
Cerawax
Ceramicrocristallina
Pure water
Aqua
TEA
Triethanolamine
1.00
Natrosol 250 MR
Hydroxyethylcellulose
0.30
Zemea
Propanediol
5.00
Euxyl PE 9010
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
0.50
Aquasens White WS 9788
CI 77891 (and) Aqua (and) Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Caprylyl Glycol
7.50
Aquasens Red WS 3720
CI 73360 (and) Aqua (and) PVP (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tetrasodium EDTA
7.50
Covacryl MT10
Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer (and) Laureth-50 (and) Aqua
C
D
% w/w
3.00 36.20
20.00
Aquasens Dispersions provide intensely bright colour in this water based mascara. The drying time is optimised because there is no glycerine in the dispersions while CovacrylMT10 provides long lasting and supple film that prevents colour transfer and offers good water resistance
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
15
COLOUR COSMETICS
Touch up your makeup
with functional fillers
Functional fillers play an important role in modern makeup formulations, adjusting their key sensorial, application and optical properties. Because there are so many options of functional fillers on the market, Merck has collated data from extensive research to help formulators select the best fillers for their products. fillers are formulation materials that
pay-off and good stability to produce the
enhance certain properties of a
unbreakable powder concept. The
product. These include pay-off,
four winning blends devised by the
texture and homogeneity. They
team include:
also provide additional benefits for
1. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Softshade
efficient claim substantiation and
2. RonaFlair MTU and RonaFlair SF-9
offer appealing properties such
3. RonaFlair LF-2000 and RonaFlair
as colour, matte or lustrous effects
White Sapphire
or a natural soft-focus effect.
4. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Flawless.
Depending on their structure, functional fillers can absorb oil and
Fillers in focus
prevent caking.
RonaFlair ESQ is a bismuth oxychloride
Merck’s portfolio of RonaFlair
T
powder. Its dry, powdery texture feels
functional fillers are composed of
great on the skin while the filler offers good
various substrates or structures,
transparency, giving the skin a subtle
such as different mineral-based
matte appearance. It also supports even
platelets and, in some cases,
product application and improves pay-off,
here was a time when ‘pigmented’
they have an additional inorganic coating
offering comfortable, long-lasting wear.
was a beauty buzzword and
to achieve a specific property. These highly
This functional filler can be used
every eyeshadow and lip gloss
engineered raw materials are exceptionally
to enhance binding capacity in
promised intense colour payoff
multifunctional; they also play an important
compact powders without giving
role in backing up bold claims.
them a tacky texture.
Later, formulators realised pigmentation
Useful online tool
smooth looking skin by maximising the
in products wasn’t everything – because
Because it can be a demanding task to
benefits of its spherical shape of the filler
there’s no point in using an ultra-pigmented
select an appropriate filler, Merck has
achieved using sophisticated coating
product if it blends badly or looks heavy and
created the RonaFlair Filler Finder guide.
technology. It is perfect for use in BB
uneven. This is especially true for
This online platform helps formulators find
creams and makeup formulations that
facial makeup.
the right functional filler for their makeup
fill in wrinkles and diffuse light, visibly
product based on the effect or claim they
smoothing the skin.
while foundations provided heavy coverage and clinged to dry patches on the skin.
Thanks to the barefaced makeup trend,
RonaFlair Flawless is ideal for creating
more commonly known as ‘the no-makeup
want to offer. They can compare functional
makeup look’, these days consumers want
fillers and their benefits to find the perfect
RonaFlair LF-2000 helps make products
balanced beauty products with skin care
match for their formulation.
stable. It is suitable for incredibly smooth,
benefits. For example, a foundation should
Another one of Merck’s newest
Thanks to its excellent compressibility,
creamy and comfortable to wear
have a light skin feel yet offer good enough
innovations is its unbreakable powders
formulations and offers long-lasting
coverage to mask any imperfections. To
solution. The technology platform delivers
performance. Products formulated with
achieve a flawless complexion, consumers
excellent stability in pressed powder
need makeup products that enhance
formulations with good pay-off. Both
their natural beauty. In order to enhance
benefits are generally tricky to achieve
a consumer’s natural beauty, Karen Maier,
simultaneously as each feature often
head of performance materials at Merck
cancels out the other. To overcome
South Africa, says a foundation should be
this challenge, Merck’s R&D team
formulated with functional fillers that deliver
took to the lab to test and screen
immediately visible optical effects.
its RonaFlair functional fillers in
According to an article written by Merck’s
terms of their pay-off and stability
international team of experts and published
benefits. The team then selected
in the March 2017 SOFW Journal, functional
filler combinations offering good
16
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
COLOUR COSMETICS RonaFlair LF-2000 glide effortlessly onto the skin and remain in place. RonaFlair Softshade is a colourless, skin enhancing filler made of fine mica particles. Coated with Merck’s proprietary
DID YOU KNOW?
Both the RonaFlair Flawless and RonaFlair LDP White functional fillers from Merck are sustainable alternatives to plastic microbeads.
technology using titanium dioxide, aluminium oxide and tin oxide, its surface structure is designed to scatter light for a natural effect that hides imperfections. RonaFlair Softshade evens out skin for a beautiful, natural look. It allows products to glide onto the skin, leaving a dry, powdery finish. It’s perfect for mattifying face powders and foundations. It also adds volume to formulations. A bismuth oxychloride product with improved light stability, RonaFlair MTU
or gloss of a formulation, despite the
properties achieved with its semi-
products’ inherent mattifying effect.
transparent particles, which subtly
RonaFlair White Sapphire is made
gives formulations a smooth, velvety
up of flat, smooth platelets that
texture. When added to cosmetics, they
improve the texture of formulations
comfortably glide onto the skin with a
to deliver a smooth application and
matte finish. The naturally white crystal
enhanced slip. Also known by the
platelets can be used in a wide variety of
INCI name Synthetic Sapphire, this
applications and won’t reduce the lustre
functional filler offers skin correction
support light reflection in harmony with the skin. •
Merck Performance Materials – www.merckgroup.com
A TOUCH OF UNBREAKABLE
How to acquire stability and good pay-off at the same time? RONAFLAIR®
IS THE ANSWER
Unbreakable.indd 1
05.12.2018 10:37:02
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
17
COLOUR COSMETICS
Tailored beauty – how to solve problems in creative ways A unique formulating additive, Silsoft EAU microgel from Momentive delivers sought after benefits in aqueous colour cosmetics formulations for the prestige, mass and professional salon market segments.
T
he cosmetics industry is driven by consumer demand and the quest for the next best ingredient to satisfy the universal pursuit of
beauty. Consumers are constantly on
Table 1: Aqua Blur
Phase Ingredients Glycerin
Glycerin
Silsoft Silicone Gel
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cetearyl Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Silsoft EAU microgel
Polysilicone-34 and Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Water
1.00
Tospearl 3000A microspheres
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
0.30
C
Preservative
INCI will depend on the preservative used
D
Fragrance
INCI will depend on the fragrance used
A
brighten their skin and make it appear B
has developed around the products and services consumers use to look their best. Keeping up with current trends in how beauty is defined is like chasing a
Wt %
Aqua
the lookout for that hot new product to more vibrant and youthful, so the industry
INCI
Water
Up to 100 5.00 36.20
7.50 20.00
moving target. This makes it challenging for brand owners and manufacturers to continuously deliver in line with
are already reflected in the many
also offers low viscosity emulsification
consumers’ expectations.
options of beauty products on the
and delivers pigment dispersion and a
Formulators need to be on the lookout for ingredients that are not only easy to use but are also equipped to transform
market and their multitude of
ordinary products into high performance
Structuring agent
solutions. Interesting textures and
Momentive’s newest
sensorial benefits are a must when
technology, Silsoft
it comes to meeting consumers’
EAU microgel enables
evolving demands.
formulators to tick all the
Tailored beauty solutions, digitalisation
unique sensory experience with a
textures and sensorial effects.
boxes when it comes to
lightweight feel. Silsoft EAU microgel is a
DID YOU KNOW?
cross-linked particle with
According to Nielsen’s 2018 Future of Beauty Report, in 2017, the number of unique foundation colours sold worldwide rose to 679, up 19 shades from the 660 available in 2016.
the ability to swell and contract. It can function as a unique structuring agent and emulsifier. It is comprised of a water
and personalisation are three of the
modern beauty demands.
biggest drivers of the cosmetics industry,
This multifunctional ingredient
pushing brands to meet consumers’
can be used to create exciting
needs for individual products that
new products and allows for the easy
celebrate their diversity. These demands
incorporation of natural oils and
activated polyacrylate core swells
esters, sunscreen actives, humectants,
rapidly, increasing the size of the
natural actives, silicones,
microgel particles. This creates a
particulates and pigments.
space-filling effect in formulations to
The multifunctional concentrate of Silsoft EAU microgel offers
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
core bound by a proprietary silicone copolymer shell-like layer. When water is added, its pre-
form a cohesive gel network that helps stabilise oil droplets. The effect improves a product’s
added value on
spreadability making Silsoft EAU
both a technical and
microgel ideal for foundations, CC
commercial level. Unlike
creams and tinted moisturisers like the
traditional structuring
Aqua Blur product featured in Table 1.
agents, which are
The effect also imparts smooth, even
aesthetically unpleasant
coverage with a hydrating, refreshing
and have limited
after-feel.
benefits, the microgel
18
swellable polyacrylic
Momentive’s Tospearl microspheres
is highly compatible,
can be used in combination with
flexible and easy to use
Silsoft EAU microgel to enhance
when formulating. It
light scattering.
COLOUR COSMETICS
KEY FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF SILSOFT EAU: • extensive and distinctive textural effects • excellent flexibility and formulation compatibility • low viscosity emulsifying properties • pigment dispersion and stabilisation • quick-break application with a cooling, quick drying feel • high shear thinning for easy spreading • unique, lightweight feel despite the high oil content • lighter and easier to spread in sunscreen products.
Its innovative core-shell technology delivers a wide range of creative textural effects and a refreshingly distinctive
glycerine or highly viscous oils, including petrolatum and natural butters. Savannah Fine Chemicals is the South
light-weight sensation, even in high oil-
African agent for Momentive. Silsoft EAU
based products.
microgel, Silsoft Silicone gel and the
Silsoft EAU microgel helps improve the spreadability of organic and inorganic
Tospearl microspheres are all available locally from Savannah. •
sunscreens, which are typically tacky or draggy on the skin, improving the use of sun protection products. The responsiveness of the microgel to pH and concentration enables a wide
Momentive – www.momentive.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
range of texture and sensory effects, all with a unique, lightweight water-fresh feel. The microgel’s silicone shell can greatly reduce tackiness, even in the
Flexible and multifunctional
presence of heavy ingredients such as
The flexibility of Silsoft EAU microgel helps enrich skin care formulations, accentuating the unique beauty of the user and delighting their senses with a water-like, refreshing skin feel.
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
19
COLOUR COSMETICS
A beauty indulgence that won’t break the bank Women have been using lipstick for years to put on a happy face. Lipsticks have become a staple product in most makeup bags and have evolved to be more durable, comfortable to wear and transfer resistant. Some even have added anti-ageing and lip plumping benefits. By Abby Vorster
consistency which are used to modify feel and other properties important in a lipstick. For example, Pecosil AS improves mould release for lipstick during manufacturing and imparts high gloss in lipsticks when used in conjunction with Pecosil ARS-09. Phoenix Chemical Pelemol DP-144B is said to be a truly unique polyester. The product was developed through the outcome of a chemical reaction between dipentaerythritol, tetrapolyhydroxystearic acid and behenic acid. Pelemol DP-144B is 100 percent active, tacky and substantive. It will hold three times its weight in water
S
and is a superior lipstick ester, producing
Lipstick is almost every woman’s
required by consumers with darker skin
moisturisation and occlusive humectancy.
go to for an affordable beauty
tones. Phoenix Chemical’s technologies are
Compared to lanolin-based lipstick, this
fix, particularly during economic
not only suitable for lipstick applications but
polyester product increases the melting
decline. The phenomenon was first
also cosmetics, personal care products and
point of a lipstick by five degrees Celsius,
OTC pharma products.
without compromising on its velvety finish
dubbed ‘The Lipstick Index’ by Estee Lauder’s chairman, Leonard Lauder, demonstrating
The company has expanded into a
or payoff.
how purchases of these small beauty
multinational organisation with agents
indulgences increase during tough times.
worldwide, allowing Phoenix Chemical to
Esters, whether synthetic or vegetable derived, are key ingredients in lipstick formulations
serve customers globally. In South Africa,
Pigment dispersion and transfer resistance
Essential Specialised Products is the
Another ingredient developed by way of
exclusive agent and distributor for Phoenix
a chemical reaction, Pelemol T91854 is
Chemical.
a polymeric ester principally composed
Esters, whether synthetic or vegetable
of the product produced when isostearyl
derived, are key ingredients in lipstick
alcohol reacts with trilinoleic acid. It is a
formulations. They have multifunctional
dark amber, tasteless liquid with virtually no
properties including solvency, pigment
odour. Pelemol T91854 has high emolliency
wetting, lubricious substantivity,
and is extremely glossy on skin. These
superior cushion, gloss, emolliency and
properties strongly suggest it could be
spreadability as well as the benefit of
used as an effective pigment dispersant in
moisturisation. The ester Pelemol BB is
lipsticks and other lip products, like glosses
economists and activists, calling the
formed when behenic acid reacts with
or stains.
phenomenon ‘feminist’ and generally
behenyl alcohol. It is completely vegetable
invalid. Estee Lauder still believes its
derived with an off-white appearance and
can formulate a moisturising lipstick with
chairman’s theory holds value today. Think
is sold as a 100 percent active oil soluble
a velvety finish, or one with high gloss and
of your own spending habits and what you
flake. When introduced into the oil phase of
excellent payoff. But what about transfer
gravitate towards when faced with uncertain
an emulsion, Pelemol BB will build viscosity
resistance? Phoenix Chemical produces
times. Often, it’s an affordable beauty
at low solids for a richer feel, making it a
a range of Giovarez film formers. Each has
product like lipstick or a cost-effective
very cost-effective ester.
a slightly different property, yet their key
But his theory was later debunked by
manicure to boost your confidence and
benefit is they dry to glossy water-insoluble
escape from reality – if only for a short while.
Siloxane waxes and superior esters
Quality lipstick technology
Siloxane waxes form a large component of
Phoenix Chemical develops proprietary
lipstick formulations. The Pecosil AS-A series
and unique chemical technologies
from Phoenix Chemical includes a range
and ingredients to create quality lipstick
of alkyl or alkyl aryl polydimethyll siloxane
products. Its ingredients also ensure lipsticks
waxes. The alkyl or alkyl/aryl functionality
meet the performance and colour payoff
varies to produce waxes of different
20
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
With Phoenix Chemical’s products, you
films, making them highly effective in transfer-resistant lipstick systems. •
Essential Specialised Products – www.esp-sa.co.za Phoenix Chemical – www.phoenix-chem.com
Lab Equipment & Services //PHARMA FOCUS
New device for more reliable sterility testing Merck has launched what it calls ‘the latest evolution in sterility testing devices’ – the Steritest Neo device. This new laboratory apparatus provides safer pharmaceutical product testing with greater reliability and convenience, to release a product to market with total confidence.
T
Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry
he global company’s expertise in sterility testing goes back more than 40 years since the invention of the original Steritest closed filtration system. This new fourth generation unit marks the latest evolution with the Steritest Neo device, which –
along with improved ergonomics – includes the following benefits: • easy to open accessory bags • 25mL gradation mark for accurate pre-wetting step measurement • coloured clamps to easily differentiate media filling • clearer labelling with colours, drawings and barcodes for easy identification
ALPHA
FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha
TANGO
FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango
• peel and stick labels for maximum traceability. These improvements enhance the user’s experience with no change in the materials that come into contact with the tested fluid or in performance specification. The membrane and canisters undergo stringent integrity and microbiological tests. The closed Steritest Neo devices are supplied with certificates of quality, with data gained from rigorous in-process and release testing to ensure peace of mind.
Colour-coded for easy identification For products without antimicrobial agents, the blue canister base indicates mixed esters of cellulose membrane filters. This membrane
BRAVO
Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo
provides an optimal filtration flow rate for standard products.
Closed Steritest Neo devices are supplied with certificates of quality The red canister base has a low absorption Durapore PVDF membrane and specific drainage design. This optimises the rinsing of products that inhibit microbial growth. These
OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability
are ideal for antibiotics and products with antimicrobial agents. The green canister base has increased chemical compatibility and indicates low absorption with the Durapore PVDF membrane, specific drainage design and polyamide canister polymer. It is ideal for products dissolved in solvents. •
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.
Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics
The newest Steritest Neo device from Merck Millipore
Merck – www.merckmillipore.com/ZA
Innovation with Integrity
FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
21
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
Quality assurance begins in the lab Quality control is an important tool in the production of safe and effective herbal remedies and health supplements. At Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories, quality is non-negotiable – from raw materials and ingredients, to production processes and packaging – all products made in its facility must comply.
H
ersol Manufacturing
or alternative medicines, regardless of
Laboratories (Hersol) is one
their positioning, must be validated as
of South Africa’s leading
safe, quality and effective products that
contract manufacturers
are produced in compliant facilities. For
of pharmaceutical products. The
this reason, the same stringent methods
company specialises in developing and
of testing and quality control apply to
producing complementary medicines
all products produced within Hersol’s
(CAMs), nutritional supplements and
manufacturing facility.
pharmaceuticals.
Quality guaranteed
André Buhrlen, managing director of Hersol, strongly believes the company’s focus on quality is unparalleled in the industry. ‘We have developed a strategy to become the best contract manufacturer in terms of quality and service delivery,’
DID YOU KNOW?
Micro and stability testing are valuable methods to confirm
According to the World Health Organization, 80 percent of the emerging world’s population relies on traditional medicine for therapy.
he explains.
Micro and stability testing are valuable methods to confirm the safety and quality of a product
the safety and quality of
1
a product. Hersol has its own in-house analytical facility that includes a microbiological laboratory. All assays and tests, necessary to ensure a product’s
quality is of a high standard, are performed by qualified laboratory personnel. These employees are also responsible for quality control and quality assurance throughout Hersol. The microbiological laboratory is fitted with cleanrooms and a separate air handling system. This is in addition
This is because it’s the manufacturer’s
to the company’s second instrument
responsibility to ensure the
room, which was added to the existing
supplements it produces, be they
laboratory for analytical method
liquid, tablet, capsule or powder
development and validation, for
format, are standardised, quality
the testing of raw materials and
products that match the descriptions
finished products.
on their labels. As a result, Hersol has manufacturing standards using
Combining knowledge with experience
different types of equipment to
Hersol is proud of its years of
produce various dosage forms.
manufacturing excellence. The history of
always followed careful, consistent
The herbal medicines and CAMs
the company demonstrates its ongoing
products that Hersol manufactures are
commitment to its customers and the
not only intended for the South African
public, to produce products based on
market, but many of the products are
strict parameters of quality, safety and
also exported into Africa. The company
efficacy – now and into the future.
has noticed an increase in demand
The company’s team of pharmacists
2 1: Hersol is equipped with its own in-house microbiological lab 2: Hersol is staffed with qualified analysts who ensure the quality of the finished product 3: Hersol produces a wide range of products including African herbal remedies, dietary supplements, CAMs, vitamins and minerals
3
remedies they can trust which are safe, effective, formulated with ingredients from
for herbal medicines in various African
has extensive expertise in the changing
reputable sources and manufactured in
regions as more and more consumers
regulations in South Africa and what
accordance with GMP. •
choose to manage their health and
will be required of CAMs and health
wellbeing with dietary supplements.
supplements in the years to come. As a
This creates new opportunities for
result, it can also guide African brand
compliant brands to thrive in the African
owners on how to meet quality and safety
market. Yet Buhrlen advises all herbal
requirements, to offer consumers herbal
22
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories – www.hersol.co.za
Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.
The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities
Hersol’s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products. It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments. Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.
Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines
Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association – HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2
fax: +27 11 614 4615
email: admin@hersol.co.za
web: www.hersol.co.za P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
23
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
Rapid cannabis-based analysis now a reality If you’re looking to explore the promising landscape of cannabis-based medicinal products, Chromspec has introduced a new GC to the South African market. The Scion Instruments 456 GC is equipped to analyse the various compounds in cannabis oil.
I
n September, the Constitutional Court decriminalised the private use
To analyse THC, CBD and the less common compound,
and cultivation of cannabis yet guidelines regarding the production
cannabinol or CBN, as well as residual solvents in cannabis oil,
and distribution of cannabidiol are still a work in progress. In a
Chromspec recently introduced a new gas chromatograph
statement, the Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
(GC) from Scion Instruments. According to the company, which
said it ‘noted the Constitutional Court ruling’ and ‘the judgement
specialises in chromatography, this GC system makes cannabis-
follows similar developments around the world where various countries
based analysis quick, easy and highly inexpensive.
are decriminalising cannabis either for medicinal use, recreational
Chromatography solutions in focus
purposes or for both’. According to the World Health Organization, several countries
Kevin Reeves, managing member of Chromspec, says the
have modified their national controls to accommodate Cannabidiol
business has specialised in laboratory instrumentation,
(CBD) as a medicinal product. CBD is one of the major chemical
specifically chromatography, selling GC and gas
compounds that occur naturally in cannabis. Another is THC or
chromatography/mass spectrometry systems (GC/MS) systems
tetrahydrocannabinol, which is associated with euphoria and
for over 26 years.
relaxation, while CBD is becoming increasingly valued for its medicinal properties.
Chromspec is the sole accredited agent for Scion Instruments, a leading supplier of GC instrumentation and solutions, which is head quartered in the UK. These GC and GC/MS systems are configured for use in pharmaceutical labs. Reeves explains: ‘These systems are used to analyse alcohol in liquids like cough syrups; residual solvents, using the USB method
Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions
467; and for essential oil analysis, such as eucalyptus and tea tree oils.’ The company supplies three different makes of GC and GC/ MS, covering the full range of GC and GC/MS instrumentation – from basic routine instruments to advanced research and development systems. ‘We have GC and GC/MS specialists to advise customers on the optimum GC package for their laboratory. We also have an IT specialist to advise and train on our software products. All our GC and GC/MS units are installed by fully qualified engineers and a full training programme is provided with every system,’ he comments. ‘Full installation qualification or operational qualification are
Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet
Articulated robot Viper
SCARA robot eCobra
Mobile robot LD Series
also available if required.’ •
The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.
The Scion Instruments 456 GC for cost-effective cannabisbased analysis
Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge! Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za
robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 24 | JANUARY 2019 | P1 C Review
Chromspec – www.chromspec.co.za Scion Instruments – www.scioninstruments.com
20-07-17 12:52
SAFETY & HYGIENE
Cleaning up SA’s pharma industry Wearing the correct personal protective equipment is one way to guarantee operators’ safety in a manufacturing environment. Vacuuming is another integral part of the production process and central to maintaining optimal hygiene standards. as the instruction manuals are significantly
For example, exposure to active
condensed.’
pharmaceutical ingredients (API) can pose serious health risks for operators,
Quality on an international scale
particularly APIs designed to produce
Pharma manufacturing worldwide is
biological change in the human body. This
guided by Good Manufacturing Practices
is an unacceptable effect for a machine
(GMP) and, in South Africa, overseen by
operator or facility worker, which is why it is
the National Department of Health.
vital to ensure the highest levels of safety
Detailed GMP guidelines were
in a manufacturing facility. This is not only
initially established by the World Health
central to avoiding contamination, but also
Organization (WHO). Many countries,
to prevent operators from coming into direct
including South Africa, have formulated
contact with a harmful substance.
their own GMP guidelines using the WHO ones as their basis. Two of the main guidelines of pharma GMP pertaining to cleanliness and hygiene, state: • facilities must be cleaned and high standards of hygiene and quality must Nilfisk’s range of industrial vacuum cleaners are designed to clean inside process equipment and all external areas in the processing vicinity
H
be maintained from procurement to product • cross-contamination must be prevented by temperature and
eavily regulated, the South African
humidity controlled environments and
pharma industry is a major hub
by limiting access to authorised staff
for exports and economic growth.
only with proper work gear.
As opportunities in the industry
Siervi comments: ‘Medicines
Developments in technology have made it easier to implement and track the performance of cleaning machines Apart from wearing the correct cleanroom garments and personal
increase, so too will the need for greater
produced in South Africa and exported
protective equipment to guarantee
regulatory control.
to the US, for example, are also under
operators’ safety, vacuuming is also an
the scrutiny of the FDA to ensure they
integral part of safety and hygiene in the
industry will come under more scrutiny,
comply with US regulations. So, the FDA
medicine production process.
demanding closer collaboration
requires documentation detailing how
between suppliers of cleaning solutions
manufacturing equipment is cleaned and
cleaners are specifically designed to
and pharmaceutical companies. This
that the manufacturing facility has been
clean inside process equipment and all
is according to Luca Di Siervi, Nilfisk’s
through a process of validation.’
external areas in the processing vicinity. An
Ultimately, hygiene and safety in the
business development and key account manager for the pharmaceutical industry. ‘We need an integrated approach when it comes to our machines, to provide the right level of performance. Machines of
Nilfisk works closely with its clients in
Nilfisk’s range of industrial vacuum
industrial vacuum cleaner helps avoid cross
the pharmaceutical industry in terms of
contamination maintaining the condition
globally applicable quality control and
of the process machine, thereby extending
maintaining hygiene standards.
its life span. It also collects and contains all
‘We analyse each client’s requirements
kinds of waste and dramatically reduces
substandard performance can impact
and assist with a customised cleaning
the final product in a manufacturing
solution and machines suited to a specified
environment,’ Di Siervi explains.
application,’ says Siervi. ‘Contamination
– those using the machines to create a
Developments in technology have
cleaning time. ‘Nilfisk is interacting with the end user
– dust or otherwise – in areas where
clean environment for pharmaceutical
made it easier to implement and track the
pharmaceuticals are produced is
manufacturing – to look at ways of
performance of cleaning machines.
unwelcome and can have an adverse
enhancing its processes and protocols,
effect on the finished product or process.’
which include an environment free of
He adds, ‘The need for easy to use cleaning machines is becoming the
contaminants,’ Siervi concludes. •
norm in the pharmaceutical industry. At
Keeping operators safe
Nilfisk, we endeavour to meet this need,
Operator safety is another major focal
resulting in reduced costs for the business
point in pharmaceutical manufacturing.
Nilfisk – www.nilfisk.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
25
SAFETY & HYGIENE
Hand hygiene in manufacturing It is vitally important to protect your workforce against work-related illnesses in any manufacturing environment, to maintain peak productivity levels and quality standards. Protecting employees’ health and safety is also a regulatory requirement. By Nathalie le Blond, category manager at Rentokil Initial
I
t is essential for workers to stay healthy
but there are also other costs to a
and avoid illness. Employers need to
business such as absence from work, lost
ensure they provide the right facilities
or reduced productivity, compensation,
and appropriate, well-maintained
poor staff morale and negative publicity.
personal protective equipment. This forms part of treating workers with dignity and
Bathrooms
respect.
The standards of the bathrooms within a
The manufacturing workforce may
manufacturing site often vary between
conditions and contaminants, making skin easier to clean. 2. Cleanse – Encourage workers to avoid unbearable skin irritations by washing away contaminants whenever they stop work. Hand cleansers can be tailored to suit the needs of each workplace environment.
be transient and can be made up
the office and the actual manufacturing
of migrant, student, contract, direct
facilities. The office bathroom needs to
restore every time they wash their hands
employees and any other type of worker.
promote the factory image, conveying
to reduce the risk of developing painful
The workforce is influenced by work load
a sense of pride in the company’s
dry skin. Conditioning cream maintains
and seasonal aspects and the common
heritage and history. The bathrooms in
healthy skin and helps avoid dryness.
practice of shift work means employees
the manufacturing facility itself should be
work in close proximity with each other.
clean and provide the right provisions for
Breakout/canteen areas
This increases the risk of germs spreading.
the employees using them.
Communal areas where employees
With approximately 80 percent
The bathrooms across a facility need
of common infections being transmitted by touch, it is essential for manufacturing businesses to have good hand hygiene practices. Although 71 percent of all absences in the manufacturing sector are minor (under seven days)
DID YOU KNOW?
to be clean and inviting for both
One in six people admit they don’t wash their hands every time they use the toilet.
and caused by illnesses such
visitors and staff, so implement a rigorous cleaning schedule
3. Restore – Workers should replenish and
gather are great spaces to build hygiene awareness and to promote a cleaner, safer workplace. Highlight the consequences of poor hygiene practices and the potential
based on peak timings
cost impact to the business by using posters
and traffic to guarantee
in breakout areas. Scenting products
bathrooms are kept clean.
can be used to help control and minimise
Also ensure bathrooms are
smells that may derive from malodour
well-stocked and hygiene essentials such as hand soap and paper towels are always
producing bacteria in breakout areas, and air disinfection units can also help reduce airborne micro-organisms. Provide hand
as the common cold, occupational
available.
sanitiser dispensers to support your drive to
skin disorders are also prevalent. So,
Keep it smelling fresh. Bad smells
increase hand hygiene standards.
good hygiene is a critical component
can be a deterrent for people using the
in minimising the spread of workplace
bathroom and odour is often cited as a
The production line
illnesses such as the common cold and
reason for leaving without washing hands
Germs can remain on surfaces on
applies to all areas of the premises, from
properly. Consider no-touch solutions to
manufacturing and other equipment within
the bathrooms and kitchen areas, to work
make sure workers wash their hands prior
a production line, for up to 48 hours. This
spaces, manufacturing and packing
to returning to the production line.
lines as well as storage areas.
Skin protection
Hand wash areas By protecting, cleaning
Hands in the manufacturing environment
and restoring the skin on
are vital tools to get the job done,
employee’s hands, you
but every day workers are exposed
can prevent dermatitis
to contaminants and conditions that
and maintain a healthy
can be harmful to their skin. Examples
workforce. A three-step
include detergents, liquids, chemicals,
process should be followed
mechanical oils, greases, resins,
to ensure skin is protected
paints, sealants and even hot and cold
against external aggressors
conditions. Occupational skin disorders,
and damaging substances:
including work-related eczema, which
1. Protect – Because
commonly go unreported, account for
prevention is better
11.2 percent of all occupational diseases.
than cure, add a layer
The cost of these problems can be
of protection before
significant and is widely accepted to be
work every day. Pre-
severely under reported. Not only are
work creams protect the
there personal costs for the employee,
skin against workplace
26
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
SAFETY & HYGIENE can increase the risk of cross-contamination
floor mats will help reduce the risk and absorb
from surface to hands. Take care to reduce
dirt and water, preventing them being tracked
the risk of cross contamination by having
through the facility.
a thorough cleaning regime as well as
Make hand sanitisers available in reception
providing hand wash stations where
areas to help elevate hygiene standards.
necessary.
Display certificates of hygiene and pest
A no food or drink policy should be introduced and maintained in production, storage and packaging areas. Pay
control audits for customers’ and suppliers’ peace of mind. Hygiene – hand hygiene in particular – is
particular attention to employees’ personal
vital in manufacturing not only to ensure the
hygiene and that of the premises and
health of workers and the public is protected
equipment. Waste management plans
but also to ensure a quality product. •
should also ensure regular disposal to minimise the risk of pests.
Initial – www.initial.co.za
Reception or entrance When customers or suppliers arrive at a facility, the reception is often their first point of contact and an important reflection of your company. Ensure they are welcomed into a clean and hygienic environment that reflects well on the hygiene standards of your manufacturing facility.
2
High-touch surfaces such as reception counters and door handles harbour bacteria that can cause skin infections, food poisoning and respiratory diseases. Employees and visitors can bring in contamination on their shoes, so having
1
1: Making hand sanitisers available in various high traffic areas, helps to elevate hygiene standards in a manufacturing environment 2: Appropriate, well-maintained personal protective equipment is an occupational health and safety requirement
PHARMACEUTICALS • SCHEDULE 5 AND 6 • COSMETICS • MEDICAL DEVICES • AEROSOLS • RAW MATERIAL • MANUFACTURING WASTE • QC LAB WASTE • BIOLOGICAL AND ANATOMICAL WASTE • CHEMICALS • SOLVENTS • PESTICIDES • ON-SITE WASTE MANAGEMENT • WASTE TRANSPORT • AND MORE
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
27
SAFETY & HYGIENE
Contaminant and oil-free air makes for good medicine Portable air and power solutions rental company, Rand-Air supplied an Atlas Copco ZT315VSD oil-free air compressor to Adcock Ingram. This South African pharmaceutical company manufactures and markets a wide range of healthcare products, many of which are distributed into Africa.
T
he pharma industry
to the facility’s manufacturing
is an important
capability.
vertical target sector
The unit is well-suited for the
for Rand Air. Henry
rigorous 24/7 duty cycle required
Fourie, Rand-Air’s business
by the customer. Its output is
development manager for
critical in ensuring uninterrupted
long term rental, approached Adcock Ingram at the end of 2017 with a solution for a
Byrone Thorne
standby compressor at its steriles
MANUFACTURING LIFE SAVING PRODUCTS
production. The rental supply
ADCOCK INGRAM’S CRITICAL care division
contract is for a period of three
has four key operating areas: medication
years.
delivery; transfusion therapies; haematology
A reliable supply of completely
and bioscience, and renal. This division is a
and critical care manufacturing facility in
contaminant and oil-free compressed air
leading supplier of life saving products. The
Aeroton, Gauteng, South Africa.
is essential for high-speed pharmaceutical
portfolio includes intravenous fluids, renal
mixing processes. It is also essential for
dialysis systems, products for the storage of
a key role in South Africa’s pharma supply
blending and packaging and for Adcock
blood and blood components, infusion systems
chain, producing a range of intravenous
Ingram’s in-house water plant, which
and accessories as well as a comprehensive
fluids, renal dialysis products, large and
produces the sterile water used to formulate
range of wound care and ostomy products.
small volume parenterals, as well as
injectable medicines. This water is also used
Adcock Ingram’s Aeroton facility plays
The critical care factory in Aeroton, Gauteng,
medical-grade sheeting for steriles and
as the final rinsing agent for any component
is the only integrated medical-grade plastics
blood collection bags.
that comes in contact with the actual
and pharmaceutical manufacturing facility
medical formulation, such as vials, ampules,
on the African continent. The facility was
caps and stoppers.
upgraded in 2012 and attained compliance with
Byrone Thorne, marketing manager of Rand-Air, says: ‘Despite quotations from
the International Pharmaceutical Inspection
competitors, our successful track record in providing reliable, safe, quality and
Focus on what matters most
Convention and Pharmaceutical Co-operation
superior customer service won Rand-Air
With the Atlas Copco ZT315VSD, the
Scheme (PIC/S).
the job.’
lead time from order to delivery was a
The Aeroton facility is already
comparatively short period of 14 weeks.
This is very much in line with Rand-Air’s
equipped with two centrifugal
This included the time it took to modify the
rental ethos, where the customer is given
compressors, which supply oil-free air.
unit per the customer’s requirements.
the freedom to concentrate on its core
This high-purity oil-free compressed air
While it is the customer’s responsibility
business, leaving the responsibility for the
is fed into an extensive stainless steel
to make sure the compressor is suitably
provision of essential, contaminant and
piping installation, which prevents
located and secure, Rand-Air’s high-
oil-free compressed air to Rand-Air. •
rust formation, oil carry-over or other
quality service and maintenance
contamination.
agreement is all part of the package. In
‘The Atlas Copco ZT315VSD, with its 1
the unlikely event of any issues with the
557 cubic feet per minute, 8.6 bar supply,
unit and its functionality, Rand-Air will
is highly suitable for this application as
be on hand to supply an
it provides completely contaminant-free
interim replacement unit.
and oil-free air,’ adds Thorne.
‘So, it really is a hassle-free
Rand-Air – www.randair.co.za
service we offer,’ asserts
Reliable backup supply In this instance, Rand-Air did not supply a
Thorne. Adcock Ingram’s
dryer as Adcock Ingram takes the feed from
process improvement
the Atlas Copco ZT315VSD through its own in-
project engineer, Johan
house dryer. While it is a standby unit, in the
Bredenkamp adds: ‘We
event of an operational issue with one of the
were pleased with the way
in-house centrifugal compressors, the Atlas
the installation went and
Copco ZT315VSD would take over the supply
are happy to have this
of compressed air with minimum disruption
extra standby capacity.’
28
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Atlas Copco ZT315VSD standby compressor installed by Rand-Air at Adcock Ingram’s Aeroton facility, in Gauteng, South Africa
SAFETY & HYGIENE
At the forefront of new standards
In a milestone achievement that asserts an uncompromising stance towards quality, health and safety, Goscor Lift Truck Company is the first forklift supplier to attain both the ISO 9001: 2015 and OHSAS 18001 accreditations in South Africa.
Q
uality and health and safety
and OHSAS 18001 standards in
have always been top
February 2018.
priorities at Goscor Lift Truck Company (GLTC), the sole
The new standard in focus
distributor of the Crown, Doosan, Bendi
Unlike the previous standard, ISO
and Hubtex forklift brands. Its recent
9001: 2015, released in September
successful promotion in certification
2015, expects organisations
from ISO 9001: 2008 to ISO 9001: 2015
to understand their objectives
and the OHSAS 18001 accreditation
before establishing a quality
verify the company’s relentless focus on
management system.
exceptionally high quality standards with no compromise to health and safety. GLTC set the ball rolling in 2016 when it
The new standard is intended to help organisations achieve excellence through improved
successfully achieved the ISO 9001: 2008
customer focus and enhanced
accreditation. Hard work and dedication
business performance. The revisions will
saw the forklift supplier successfully
enable organisations to enhance their
improve its certification to ISO 9001: 2015.
existing quality management programme
7
Practical training for GLTC technicians
PRINCIPLES OF ISO 9001:2015:
‘We are the only forklift company in
by defining and documenting processes,
South Africa to have both the ISO 9001:
training employees, ensuring better supply
1. customer focus
2015 and OHSAS 18001 accreditations,’
chain relationship management, adopting
2. leadership
confirms MD, Darryl Shafto.
a risk-based approach to quality and
3. engagement of people
regularly involving the leadership team in
4. process approach
quality management.
5. improvement
Attaining these accreditations was purely due to hard work. ‘The route to certification wasn’t easy,’ says GLTC
However, according to the new standard,
6. evidence-based decision-making 7. relationship management.
director, Anthony Fouché. ‘It called for a
the primary focus of an organisation’s
lot of tough work, which took long hours.
quality management programme is to
The accreditation process started in 2016
meet customer requirements and exceed
its commitment to health and safety within
– it was arduous, but worth the effort.’
expectations in terms of the quality of your
the company. It enables the company to
products and services.
manage operational health and safety
One of the main contributors to the company’s certifications is, from outset,
Organisations would do well to
risks and improve performance. The
GLTC has employed the right people in
comprehensively research, analyse
standard addresses the following key
the positions best suited to their expertise
and understand both the current and
areas: hazard identification; risk assessment
and skills. Heather Morgan’s appointment
future needs of the business and adjust
and determining controls. Other areas
as national health and safety officer
programmes and processes to deliver
of focus include allocation of resources,
and Thando Khumalo appointment as
on these goals. It is also important to
roles, responsibility, accountability and
assistant health and safety officer are
align organisational objectives to market
authority; competence, training and
two examples.
trends and communicate them across the
awareness; communication, participation
organisation. It is also essential to implement
and consultation; operational control;
overseen by Germany’s TUV and ran
programmes and processes to measure
emergency preparedness and response;
for two days at each national branch.
customer satisfaction and act on the results.
performance measuring, monitoring
The intensive audit process was
GLTC successfully met the ISO 9001:2015
and improvement.
OHSAS overview The Goscor Lift Truck Company’s team responsible for maintaining the health and safety at its facility in Chloorkop, Gauteng
Accreditation offers benefits beyond
With the successful implementation
those that are internal. ‘When we pitch
of OHSAS 18001, GLTC is putting its
for new business, companies audit us
employees’ safety and well-being at the
and see for themselves how we operate.
top of its agenda. Sound occupational
Within 15 minutes of a facility site visit, it’s
health and safety policies are not only
obvious we have been audited by TUV and
essential for employees, but also are
accredited with ISO and OHSAS standards,’
important for your customers and
he concludes. •
other stakeholders. Fouché reiterates GLTC’s OHSAS 18001 certification is a strong sign of
Goscor Lift Truck Company – www.goscorlifttrucks.co.za
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
29
HAIR CARE
Enhance and revitalise hair with Genadvance
Clariant’s Genadvance hair conditioning ingredients, launched at in-cosmetics Global 2018, are not only advanced but also based on detailed global consumer research. By combining science with consumer demand, the company has delivered what it calls a ‘first for the hair care industry in terms of targeted conditioning performance’.
O
ver the past two years,
wavy hair. The range consists of the
brands and ingredients
repair, hydra and life variants, with each
suppliers have invested
focused on a specific claim or benefit.
heavily in researching
Genadvance Repair does what its
African hair types to better understand
name promises, helping to restore
consumers’ hair care needs. L’Oréal
damaged hair to a sleeker, smoother
South Africa’s recent study on the perceptions of consumers with tightly curled, curly and wavy hair, revealed the following: • hair volume is too intense • hair is difficult to manage in its natural state • hair growth is slow as a
DID YOU KNOW?
and healthier state. Its strong protective properties also
help to prevent future hair In all geographies, damage. Genadvance women experience hair damage and/or dryness, Repair is probably the making it a primary hair most weight-efficient care concern. Because the damaging factors cannot ingredient in its class, entirely be avoided, consumers making it highly are now seeking care and repair solutions to help economical to use. them achieve stronger, Suitable applications healthier and more manageable hair. include masks, treatments,
result of the slower turnover of cells in the keratinocytes in African hair
shampoos, styling gels and conditioners. Genadvance Life restores hair’s
Genadvance Repair is probably the most weight-efficient ingredient in its class, making it highly economical to use time in hair care history, Clariant says the Genadvance hair conditioning ingredients overcome the limitations of conventional quats. This allows for the development of individualised products and novel hair care formats. ‘When compared to traditional quats, the Genadvance ingredients are proven to be more conditioning. They also allow for transparent formulations, have better biodegradability profiles,’ says Santhum
• hair is fragile and more susceptible
vivacity. The conditioning ingredient is
Moodley, Clariant South Africa’s sales
to breakage
particularly effective on thin and limp
manager ICS for the personal care,
• scalp hydration is a challenge,
hair, revitalising it by increasing volume
industrial and home care and
resulting in discomfort that leads to
and improving shine. This eco-friendly
pharma markets.
itching and sensitivity.
ingredient can be used in a variety of
Based on these findings, it’s easy to
applications, especially silicone-free hair
multicultural consumers seeking natural
understand why Euromonitor reported
care products. It is ideal for shampoos,
solutions to care for their hair, brands
in 2017 that African consumers spend
conditioners and hair shine sprays.
need support from their suppliers when
more on hair care than Caucasians.
Genadvance Hydra is a 100 percent
Aside from meeting the needs of
it comes to improving the sustainable performance of their products.
The global analyst firm says the
naturally derived, Eco-cert approved
demand for Caucasian hair care
ingredient. It delivers a great after-feel
products slowed down in 2017 due to
on dry hair, improving moisturisation
core going forward, and so, in saying this,
a lack of innovation and fewer new
and manageability. Because of its
we aim to create and evolve our offerings
product launches. However, sales in
properties, Genadvance Hydra is
for more responsible partnerships with
the Ethnic¹ hair care category have
suitable for baby shampoos. It is also
brand owners and manufacturers looking
been far more dynamic.
ideal for natural hair care products,
to improve their carbon footprint using
shampoos, conditioners, moisturising
biodegradable ingredients,’ she adds.
Leading speciality chemicals company, Clariant developed the
serums and detangling sprays.
‘At Clariant, sustainability is really our
Genadvance Hydra and Genadvance Life have been awarded Clariant’s
Genadvance hair conditioning ingredients to revolutionise customised
Sustainable excellence
EcoTain sustainable excellence label
hair care products, such as those
Besides the outstanding conditioning
for providing above market standard
formulated for tightly curled, curly and
and detangling benefits, for the first
sustainability benefits. To achieve this
30
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
HAIR CARE
label, the company follows an intensive screening programme for every product based on 36 criteria, which look at all three dimensions of sustainability, being people, planet and performance.
Formulation innovation Curl definition, bringing new life to hair, the repairing feature and rich moisturising functionality are the key drivers of the range, making the Genadvance conditioning ingredients
Buyer’sguide
ideal for African hair care formulations. For example, Genadvance Repair
could be incorporated in mass market
THE
conditioner formulation without pushing the price point of the product.
Moodley explains: ‘We have innovative
substantiation, and tailor it to African
ways of shaping a formula by removing
consumers’ hair care needs using a cost
the now “less necessary” ingredients,
performance strategy.
hence reducing the cost.’
How it works is Clariant’s R&D
Genadvance test results show the
ingredients address the manageability
experts take an innovative formulation
issues and intense dryness of tightly
or product, which is backed by
curled and kinky hair, which makes these
clinical testing for efficacy and claim
hair types brittle and prone to breakage. •
REFERENCES:
1. Genadvance has been tested on Ethnic hair at
Clariant’s Hair Care Competence Centre, located in São Paulo, Brazil.
2017/2018
Clariant – www.clariant.com/personalcare
THE
Buyer’sguide 2018/2019
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1
2018/05/07 3:09 PM
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
31
HAIR CARE
Novel technology to care for textured hair
Naturally curly, textured hair is drier and more delicate than other hair types. Uta Kortemeier and Peter Schwab of Evonik Goldschmidt discuss how to develop modern conditioning and moisturising formulations to cleanse and care for Ethnic hair.
T
he Naturalista hair care trend
foaming challenges. Formulators
surfactants, such as dialkyl
continues to flourish, particularly
should also bear in mind that, in the
sulfosuccinates. This allows for the
among Ethnic consumers
eyes of the consumer, foaming is still
incorporation of exceptionally high
with women all over Africa
the key performance indicator for
levels of oil (up to 50 percent) and
transitioning back to wearing their hair
cleansing capacity.
curly instead of relaxing or straightening it.
In standard micellar
Natural hair care bloggers continue to
surfactant formulations,
fuel the trend, sharing advice and insights
the addition of oil to
into transitioning and how to manage
the surfactant base
natural hair. This is because chemically
leads to instabilities in
straightened hair is often much easier to
the formulation. These
manage than natural textured hair.
become apparent
Because Ethnic hair tends to knot and
either by a breakdown
combines very good foaming
in the viscosity or by
easily, especially at the curvature area.
phase separation between
Alongside manageability, this makes
the oil and aqueous phases.
Sebum migration down the hair shaft
characteristics with smooth and aesthetic textures.
New research from Mintel reveals that Black women are most likely to wear their hair natural (no chemicals) with noheat styling (40%) and natural with heat styling (33%). For a boost in confidence, 51% of women say their current hairstyle makes them feel beautiful.
tangle and is dry and frizzy, it breaks
breakage another key hair care concern.
DID YOU KNOW?
This concept is very flexible regarding both the level and the type of cosmetic oils and surfactants used, enabling the preparation of novel, truly two in one rinse off
formulations with excellent
Structured surfactant systems
cleansing and outstanding care
offer a viable option for incorporating
properties.
is also limited due to the wide diameter
exceptionally high oil levels in
and tight curvature of the hair fibres.
surfactant based formulations.
contain 15 to 50 percent natural
This makes hair care formulations with a
Structured surfactant-containing
oils, three to nine percent Tego
significant refatting efficiency essential for
formulations are compositions in
Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl
Ethnic hair.
which the surfactants are aggregated
Sodium Sulfosuccinate), three percent
in the form of lamellar phases
Sodium Laureth Sulphate and three
Multicultural consumers are looking for products with multiple functions that
dispersed in the aqueous
provide moisture and care to the scalpš.
phase. These multi-
There is an opportunity for brands to add
lamellar vesicles have an
functionality to existing product lines to
onion-like configuration
develop multifunctional products that
of concentric bilayers of
increase usage and help consumers
surfactant molecules with
personalise their hair care routines.
water trapped in between
Mintel’s research shows that Ethnic
(see Figure 1). Based on
consumers are more interested in product
their rheology, structured
innovation that addresses their concerns
surfactant compositions
rather than new hair care methods.
can suspend and stabilise
Typical standard formulations
significant amounts of
Structured surfactant systems
insoluble materials, such
The incorporation of a high level of oils
as oil droplets, and deposit
in a shampoo formulation is one way
them efficiently on surfaces
to deliver an innovative product with
with the addition of water.
multifunctional qualities. Larger amounts of hydrophobic
Evonik has developed a novel structured surfactant
substances in surfactant based
system using relatively low
formulations can create stability and
amounts of hydrophobic
32
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Figure 1: Multilamellar vesicles in a structured surfactant system
HAIR CARE Figure 3: Results of the consumer evaluation of a high oil shampoo (UL 5761/67). A total of 20 panellists (including seven African Americans) completed a questionnaire after using the product
consumer test confirmed the benefits
Opuntia Biocomplex SH
of the structured surfactant-based test
Obtained from the juice of the
creamy and highly viscous, showing the
shampoo. During washing, the tested
leaves or cladodes of Opuntus ficus,
rich appearance of typical W/O creams,
product was found to be easy to apply.
this powdered extract contains a
but with a similar foaming performance
It provided a very smooth hair feel while
natural blend of mucilages and other
as typical micellar surfactant
shampooing and had good rinseability.
polysaccharides. The valuable nutrient
formulations (see Figure 2).
Flash foam, foam quantity and foam
profile of Opuntia Biocomplex SH is as a
creaminess were all satisfactory. Figure
direct result of the water which is stored
3 illustrates the results of the consumer
in the cladodes, beneath their prickly
test.
surface. This natural gel has a long
percent Cocamidopropyl Betaine. With 50 percent oil, the formulation is
After washing, the test product
history of traditional use among farmers
provided good hair smoothness, easy
in southern Italy. They would apply the
combability and soft hair feel. As for
cladodes onto their skin to moisturise it
dry performance, most respondents
and protect skin wounds.
reported their hair felt moisturised,
Figure 2: The appearance of structured surfactant system with 50 percent oil
Opuntia Biocomplex SH produces a
smooth, soft and easy to manage.
physical barrier on the skin, protects
A significant reduction of frizz was
it, deeply moisturises it and promotes
observed. As expected, participants
cutaneous reparative processes. It
with kinky, curly and/or relaxed
can be used to formulate moisturising
hair reported a greater benefit and
and skin repair products, especially for
satisfaction than participants with
babies’ sensitive skin (see Table 1) and is
naturally straight or fine hair.
ideal for anti-ageing serums. •
The cleansing conditioner
This novel technology from Evonik
Table 1 shows a two in one
provides a suitable refatting shampoo
conditioning shampoo based on the
base for dry and brittle hair and
new technology. To optimise the hair
effectively re-moisturises the hair.
REFERENCES: 1. Mintel GNPD, New approaches for black hair care, November 2018
care properties, Evonik’s Varisoft EQ 100 is added. This is a novel, liquid cationic surfactant with excellent hair conditioning properties. The cationic surfactant also increases the stability
Table 1: UL 5761/67 Refatting conditioning shampoo
Phase
of the formulation and enhances the deposition of the hydrophobic components on the hair surface, including on the more damaged The conditioning performance is intensive and particularly suitable for level controls volume effectively. In addition to standard sensorial and instrumental techniques, a small
% w/w
Water
ad 100 0.5
Polyquaternium-10 A
regions.
curly or frizzy hair. The high overall oil
Ingredient
10.7
Sodium Laureth Sulphate, 28 percent Tego Betaine F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
7.9
Glycerine
2.0
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
50.0
B
Varisoft EQ 100 (Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate)
1.0
C
Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate)
4.0
D
Preservative, Perfume
q.s
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
33
HAIR CARE
Untangling the knots In 2021, the global hair care market is forecast to reach US$89 billion, increasing by almost 24 percent from its value in 2016¹. What is driving this phenomenal growth and why is there such a strong appetite for new innovations? Gattefossé answers these questions.
60 percent of the global population has curls, coils or waves
and the first conditioning effect. Gattefossé’s balm-to-oil hair treatment is an innovative hair balm that transforms into an oil, creating a soft moisturising film to deeply nourish hair. Hair serums, which help to soothe and balance the scalp, are also popular. Modern styling products intend to give movement and shape to hair while reducing
by opting for sustainable and
‘flyaway’ or frizz. With Gattefossé’s frizz
natural products, treating their
control formulation, humidity and unwanted
hair as they do their skin.
volume are nothing but a bad memory for
This is a global concern.
curly and frizzy hair. Another unconventional step is the
In Asia, ‘free from’ claims are
T
growing rapidly. In Europe and
night treatment for hair. Gattefossé’s
North America, superfood and
mangolicious night cream is a formulation
oday, there is a strong parallel
probiotic based products are emerging as
that can be applied on the hair before
between the skin and hair
well as gluten-free claims. In India, these a
going to sleep and rinsed in the morning,
care markets with novelties
growing demand for products inspired by
giving extra moisturisation and exotic touch
in hair care now strongly
Ayurvedic medicine.
to the hair (much like a night cream would do for the skin).
linked with those of the skin care². The routines, claims, textures and targets
Curls make waves
have become very similar. Day care,
The textured hair care category has
Gattefossé are available on request
night treatments, dies to enhance
become the fastest growing and most
from Carst & Walker. They all feature the
grey, sprays for temporary rainbow
dynamic of all in the beauty industry.
international company’s new hair care
coloured hair – all these products are becoming more and more popular.
Another new trend is the movement to embrace hair’s natural texture³.
The hair care formulations from
ingredient, Definicire, which is based on functionalised vegetable waxes that recreate the natural protective lipid layer
Even beards are pampered with a wider
A total of 60 percent of the global
and complete range of offerings. Basics
population has curls, coils or waves.
on hair. Definicire’s performance has
such as shampoos and stylers are being
Recently, consumers with curly, wavy or
been validated on different hair types
reinvented in new textures and formats.
frizzy hair have stopped relaxing their hair in
and confirmed by a hairdresser. The
Hair care is now for everyone and
order to celebrate their natural textures.
ingredient ensures perfect hair discipline in
consumers can find products adapted
Products designed for curly and wavy
all climates, it controls static electricity,
to their personal hair care needs,
hair are gaining strength in the market.
enhances the smooth feel of hair and
regardless of their age or gender.
Indie brands targeting the specific needs of
protects it from pollution. •
If you want to know more about
curly, wavy and textured hair are enjoying
emerging hair care claims, keep an eye
rapid growth while mainstream and
on skin care innovations. Among the
multinational brands have expanded their
REFERENCES:
trendy topics are anti-pollution, UV and
ranges to reach consumers who wear their
1. Euromonitor: Global haircare overview part 1:
visible light protection, scalp care, deep
hair naturally curly.
moisturisation, multi-functionality and
rooting hair in the numbers, October 2017 2. GlobalData’s market data, trends and opportunities across the global hair care landscape, 2018
anti-ageing. Emerging hair care claims are
An innovative routine
3. Cosmetics Business – August 2017 hair care
following the latest skincare innovations.
Forget the old shampoo, condition and
market report
style routine. Today’s hair care routine
A natural approach
is more sophisticated and includes an
Consumers are more concerned about
increasing number of products.
the ingredients in their beauty products. So, they tend to avoid certain chemicals
34
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Pre-shampoo, the first step of the new hair care regimen, provides deep moisturisation
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
January 2019 | Volume 45 | Number 1
www.pharmacos.co.za
Enhance your brand
with innovative bottles and tubs
Highlights from the Gold Pack Awards
Chanel invests
in Sulapac
NEWS
VAST EXPERIENCE AT THE HELM OF NOVUS PRINT
Chanel invests in Sulapac’s beautiful plastic alternatives
SOUTH AFRICAN COMMERCIAL
gradually take over the reins from
TO SHOULDER THE development of Sulapac,
printer and manufacturing company,
Novus Print’s current group executive,
French luxury house, Chanel recently invested
Novus Holdings has appointed Andre
Conrad Rademeyer.
in the Finnish company, which is listed among
Smit as group executive of Novus Print, commencing 1 February 2019. Smit’s appointment serves
Andre Sm
it
‘Andre’s unwavering integrity makes
the top 100 hottest start-ups in Europe by Wired
him the perfect candidate to drive the
Magazine. This is Sulapac’s first investor from the
Novus Print strategy, achieving volume
cosmetics industry. To tackle the accumulation of non-
to bring continued stability
and synergies across all printing
to the printing division, as
plants while standardising processes
biodegradable plastics, the Finnish company has
he has been with the group
to achieve maximum efficiency and
developed an innovative material that responds
for over 20 years. He brings
driving organic growth in existing
to the growing need for environmentally friendly
with him vast institutional
operations. We look forward to the
products and packaging.
knowledge of both the
positive contribution he will make in
Sulapac products use a biodegradable and
print and manufacturing
his new role,’ comments Neil Birch,
microplastic-free material made of FSC-certified
landscapes. Smit will
Novus Holdings’ CEO.
wood chips and natural binders. They have all the benefits of plastic, yet they biodegrade
NEW PLASTICS|SA CHAIR TO ENCOURAGE GOVERNMENT COALITION
completely and leave no microplastics behind. Replacing plastic with Sulapac is easy – the material can be utilised on manufacturers’ existing machinery, without the need to build
AT ITS AGM in November,
new factories. This 100 percent biodegradable
Plastics|SA welcomed
packaging outperforms other sustainable
Mxolisi Khutama as its new
alternatives in terms of having a unique look,
chairman for 2019.
its barrier properties and fast biodegradation.
Executive director, Anton
Since starting its journey in 2016, Sulapac has
Hanekom, acknowledged
won many international awards with its products
that the global plastics
that combine luxury, sustainability and unlimited
industry is having to contend with ongoing negative messages and
Bernhard Mahl, Mxolisi Khutama and Anton Hanekom
mounting pressure to
design possibilities. ‘We have set a very high, quality standard for our sustainable material, with an ambition to replace plastic, and we are very pleased to
minimise the environmental
does not do enough to ensure proper
welcome Chanel, a leading brand representing
impact of plastic packaging.
waste management in the country.
the most demanding luxury segment, among our
‘With the appointment of our new
On the other hand, government thinks
investors,’ says Suvi Haimi, CEO and co-founder
chairman and the support of a strong
the responsibility lies with the plastics
of Sulapac. ‘Chanel is definitely one of the
and energetic board of directors, I
producers. Whilst it is true human
forerunners in the luxury segment as it wants to
believe we are ready to change the
behaviour needs to change, there is
invest in the latest sustainable material available
playing field,’ he said.
no incentive to do so if the necessary
and technology innovations. Our mission to save
infrastructure is not in place. It is clear,
this world from plastic waste just became even
wealth of knowledge and expertise
Plastics|SA has a vital role to play
more achievable.’
in operations, business development
both in society and in the government
and administration gained in
space,’ Khutama stressed.
Khutama brings to the table a
both the polymer, healthcare
Despite the bad press the plastics
Sulapac has raised funding from several investors such as Lifeline Ventures, Ardent Venture, Eerik Paasikivi, Ilkka Herlin and Saara
and business environments. He is
industry has had to contend with this
Kankaanrinta, Planvest, and Mika Ihamuotila. In
currently the group executive of
past year, good has come out of it.
July 2018, Sulapac received the Horizon 2020
rigids at Nampak Packaging.
‘Design for recycling’ has become an
SME instrument grant from the European
integral part of manufacturing, resulting
Union, while Business Finland has also
as chairman of the board, who will
in more successful collaboration
funded the company.
remain deputy chair. ‘The concept
across the value chain as brand
of a life without plastics, specifically
owners, retailers and governments
single-use plastics, has become
seek new technologies to solve industry
a worldwide trend. The media is
challenges and change irresponsible
overrun with anti-plastics messages
human behaviour.
Khutama replaces Bernhard Mahl
and campaigns, which fuel negative
‘There are still many challenges that
perceptions. The consumer blames
we need to overcome in 2019. We know
plastic products for pollution, whilst the
it won’t be easy, but it will definitely be
plastics industry believes government
worth it,’ Hanekom concluded.
36
| JANUARY 2019 | Packaging Review
Entirely made of wood and natural binders, derived from the renewable resources of Finnish forests, packaging using Sulapac’s material can be produced using standard injection moulding, extrusion and blow moulding techniques
EVENTS
The Gold Pack stamp of approval South Africa’s most innovative packs were announced at the 2018 IPSA Gold Pack Awards. The prestigious event was held on 14 November at the Inanda Club in Sandton, Johannesburg.
T
he Institute of Packaging SA (IPSA) Gold Pack Awards is the
showcase for the South African packaging industry. Since the inception of the awards programme in 1973, it has grown into a significant
DID YOU KNOW?
STAND OUT BEAUTY PACKAGING
1
In the Health & Beauty
category, the Gold Packaging industry veteran, medal was awarded Charles Muller was awarded the 2018 Packaging SA to Syndicate Graphics, Gill Loubser Packaging Amka Products and Achiever Award (previously converters RPC known as the Packaging Achiever of the Year). Astrapak and Golden
and prestigious event. According to IPSA, the competition for medals is fierce, culminating in an awards event that offers everyone involved or interested in packaging an opportunity to celebrate and network. Gold, Silver and Bronze medals are awarded to finalists in various categories, as well as the ultimate Gold Pack Trophy. ‘The Gold Pack Awards are
Era for the Satiskin shower gel dispensers.
The Gold Pack Awards are intended to showcase excellence in packaging craftmanship According the judges, each variant of
2
1: Representatives from Annique and RPC Astrapak Consupaq show off their Bronze medal 2: Nick Swan of Britepak and Claudi ten Cate, Rejuvenesse brand manager, show off the finalist’s medal awarded to the health products brand for its redesigned packaging
submitted by the converter, RPC Astrapak Consupaq. The Bronze medal was awarded to Annique Health & Beauty’s Rooibos Spa Shower Butter and Hand Butter tubes also submitted by RPC Astrapak Consupaq.
intended to showcase excellence
this range carries a strong individual
in packaging craftmanship,’ says
image and concept while binding to
such as RPC Astrapak Consupaq, RPC
Bill Marshal, national secretary of
overall brand architecture, not only
Astrapak, Syndicate Graphics, Golden
IPSA, ‘this includes, but is not limited
across the fragrances but also across
Era and Britepak is elevating packaging
to innovation.’ The judges look for
pack sizes. The organic shape and
standards in healthcare and beauty
packaging that displays the state
curves of the foam bath are echoed
industries. Their solutions and those of all the
of professionalism and quality of
in the ergonomic shape of the bottles.
other Gold Pack Award winners are proof the
packaging produced in South Africa.
Fine details, such as the two tone caps,
South African packaging industry has the
Entries are open to packaging
visi-strip, carefully crafted typography
potential to manufacture packaging on par
produced in South Africa for Africa and
and effective use of shrink sleeves, create
with some of the best offerings worldwide.
packaging produced in Africa yet not
a strong brand identity. Nutriwoman
in South Africa. There are many other
Derma Care tubes won the Silver
information about the awards and the full list
categories and awards.
medal in this category. The entry was
of winners of the 2018 programme. •
11900 - PROPAK AFRICA 2019 VISPROM ADVERT NEW MEDIA 177X65_V2.indd 1
The innovative approach of companies
Visit www.goldpack.org.za for more
2018/08/22 09:22
Packaging Review | JANUARY 2019 |
37
BOTTLES, TUBS & CONTAINERS
The power of soft touch The simple addition of a material can change the complete look and feel of an average bottle. The result is premium, luxurious packaging – in this instance for hair care products. PACKAGING REVIEW explores the innovation behind soft touch laminates.
P
ackaging designers, converters
and brand owners have the same goal when it comes to packaging for beauty brands – to enhance the brand by elevating
packaging of the hair care brand,
DID YOU KNOW? According to Luxepack New York, in
Quick Grow. Now available in South Africa, this hair care range is produced using
advanced amino acids 2016, neuroscientific studies measured the emotional impact and positivity on to assist the hair growth consumers who touched products in soft process. touch packaging. The results showed the consumers positivity increased substantially when interacting with soft THE TECHNICALITIES OF touch packaging and seven out of 10 customers would choose products SOFT TOUCH packaged with soft touch over Quick Grow shampoo and any other lamination.
its tactile and visual appearance, ensuring
conditioner are packaged
resistant to scratches. Colours are also emphasised with soft touch laminates making them appear more vibrant. The finish is completely printable and can be done directly onto the packaging as demonstrated by Bottle Printers, the printing supplier of Quick Grow. Impress Pac manufactures and supplies the soft touch bottles. Co-owner of the packaging company, Bret Protti, says the PP interior protects the actual products housed within the packaging and prevents
in a soft touch bottle to enable
any form of permeation. The bottles are
a positive association with the
comfortable handling. The finish also
recyclable in a PP stream because both
brand and its packaging.
prevents the product slipping from wet
layers consist of polyolefin.
When consumers pick up a product, they interact with it. People respond to colours, feel, texture and even weight, so a product’s packaging should stimulate their senses. Associations with the brand are then developed in the minds of consumers. Soft touch, initially developed for
hands, when used in the shower or bath.
The finish has a unique velvety feel Soft touch containers are made of a
Soft touch laminate is an ideal packaging option for premium personal care products and can be used for jars, tubes and closures as well as bottles. The finish has a unique velvety feel. It is said to deliver a sensation of warmth and a feeling of wellness when consumers come into contact with it.
double-layered plastic. Polypropylene
shower gel packaging approximately
(PP) is the polymer used to manufacture
MODE OF CONSTRUCTION
10 years ago, has a number of visual
the interior whilst a special polyolefin
This type of packaging is produced using
and physical characteristics. This
laminate is used to produce the
double extrusion. The blow moulding
laminate is used for the primary
exterior. The laminate adheres
process involves the production of hollow
perfectly to PP. It not only has special
products like bottles and containers using
tactile characteristics but is also
thermoplastics. The thickness of packaging produced using blow moulding can vary in thickness. The procedure begins with melting the plastic, which is then formed inside a tube-like piece of plastic called a parison. It has a hole in one end through which compressed air passes. The air is blown out after the parison is clamped into a mould. The pressure of the air pushes the plastic out to match the mould. When the plastic has cooled down and hardened, the mould opens and the part, which is the plastic, is ejected. •
Bottle Printers – www.bottleprinters.co.za Impress Pac – www.impresspac.com
38
| JANUARY 2019 | Packaging Review
BOTTLES, TUBS & CONTAINERS
Bottle Printers expands its offerings Beauty and personal care brand owners now have access to a sustainable and flexible supply of packaging options from Bottle Printers, the professional glass and plastic printing company.
B
ecause its customers continue to
comes to minimum order requirements,
face challenges when it comes to
we’ve set the MOQ as low as 300 units for
sourcing packaging, Bottle Printers
certain stock items. With bigger quantity
has made a bold move to become a
orders of custom packaging, between 5
distributor of rigid plastic packaging
000 and 10 000 units, customers will be
and components.
able to specify masterbatch colours to
Richard Irwin of Bottle Printers explains: ‘In
match their branding. Stock items will be
South Africa, bottles, tubs and jars are not
available immediately while a lead time
readily available and require stock holding.
of about two weeks will be required for
The minimum order requirements can be
custom items.’
very high and lead times of up to six weeks can be damaging to a brand, especially
THE BEAUTY OF CONVENIENCE
when products go out of stock.’
‘We want to bring added convenience
The company has diversified into sourcing
to sourcing packaging, particularly for
and supplying packaging to become a one
startup Ethnic hair care brands, which
stop shop from a packaging perspective.
are growing in numbers in South Africa.
The bottles, tubs and containers, as well
Social media, the natural hair care trend
as the closures supplied by Bottle Printers
and direct selling are seeing brands
are produced locally. To secure supply, the
popping up everywhere and we want to
company has gone as far as to get involved
help these brand owners with the hassle-
in the raw materials aspect of producing the
free sourcing of their packaging. Even if
packaging and, in the future, will lay down
they don’t want the packaging printed,
moulds to develop new bottles not offered in
we will be able to accommodate them,’
the market.
he comments.
A DIVERSE COLLECTION
added value of sourcing and printing
second plant located in Bramley View,
Bottle Printers distributes a wide variety of
their packaging at one location, Bottle
Johannesburg, where we print on glass
rigid plastic packaging for cosmetics and
Printers’ plastic division, situated at
with organic and high stove enamel/
beauty products. Stock and custom items
the Kyalami Business Park in Midrand,
ceramic inks, as well as coat glass bottles
are available in PET, HDPE, LDPE, PETG
is a three level multi-story factory for
in an array of colours.’ •
and polypropylene.
foiling and printing on plastics in either
For those customers looking for the
‘We can also source glass bottles if
conventional or UV inks, using multiple
needed,’ Richard adds. ‘Because we
printing methods, in one to six colours.
aim to be as flexible as possible when it
Richard adds: ‘We also have four fully
These are just some of the stock items of rigid plastic packaging available from Bottle Printers
automatic four colour machines and a
Bottle Printers – www.bottleprinters.co.za
Packaging Review | JANUARY 2019 |
39
Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.
Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Smoking hot trends at the SAAFFI seminar Will you attend the 17 annual SAAFFI seminar? The event takes place on 14 March at the Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng and will feature relevant content to inspire deeper thinking. th
M
A MEMORABLE YEAREND FOR COSCHEM
T
he Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosted its Johannesburg year-end luncheon on 15 November at Casalinga Restaurant in Muldersdrift, Gauteng. Despite the intense heat, the event offered guests an unforgettable dining experience and the
opportunity to network with old and new faces from the cosmetics and personal care industry.
THE JHB YEAR-END IN PICTURES
any of the ingredients and technologies utilised today in fragrances, flavours, cosmetics, food and beverages were once taboo. Some, like cannabis, are quite contentious,
while others, such as synthetic and natural ingredient blends used in the fragrances industry, are rather progressive. These developments set the tone for the 2019 seminar, which is themed ‘taboo or not taboo’. Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry (SAAFFI), comments: ‘Our 2019 seminar will be a bit off the wall to open attendees’ minds to creativity and innovation. We’re not giving them mainstream content but rather fascinating concepts to inspire deeper thinking.’
WHAT’S ON THE PROGRAMME? The full day programme features an impressive line-up of speakers and a hands-on workshop. Some of the presentations include: • diversity and inclusion specialist, Roy Gluckman will discuss inclusion and equality in the workplace at the keynote presentation • Beverley Gardner, who recently joined Iberchem to set up the global fragrances and flavours company’s southern African office, will share new fragrance trends • the creators of Poison City Brewing will discuss Cannabis infused beer • food fraud and issues surrounding false claims will be highlighted by FACTS • the panel discussion will focus on SAAFFI’s role in whistle blowing, its standing on taboo issues and how to act. The panel will also touch on corporate governance in the cosmetics industry and transitioning from self-regulation to enforced regulations • futurist, Charlotte Kemp will reveal taboos of the future and how to navigate them. To end of the seminar on a high note, a variety of interesting delicacies will be served during the networking cocktail function. These include an insect based ice cream, Mopani worms and a unique SAAFFI infused beer created by brewmaster, Apiwe NxusaniMawela. She is the first black woman in South Africa to establish her own microbrewery, Brewster’s Craft, where she also introduces students to the science of beer making. Visit www.saaffi.co.za/events for more information about the seminar and to book your seat for the event. •
P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |
41
Tea time
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42
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,
Chemists’websitewillfindinformation
Enzymes,FunctionalActives,Silicones,Emollients,Emulsifiers,Meadowfoam
on membership, educational
Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,
programmes (specific details
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives
pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Diploma),aswellasthesociety’sobjectivesofpromotingprofessionalismand
Tel: 010 595 9690
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Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
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M&L LABORATORY
DALGEN
M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an
Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,
extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing
plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.
services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
FORMPAK
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