Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2019

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

January 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 1

www.pharmacos.co.za

Carving a new path

for clean beauty

HAIR CARE: The personalisation craze is just beginning Shake up your makeup in 2019 Safety & hygiene solutions to benchmark your plant

Biotech Solutions becomes Sartorius South Africa Same Products | Same Service | Same Quality Tel 011.315.5444 | www.sartorius.com

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

14 Beauty cleans

January 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 1

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

BASF updates its Sunscreen Simulator

Scientists develop refrigerated truck to train container

Symrise celebrates angles of innovation

up in 2019

25 SAFETY & HYGIENE

9 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

11 INDUSTRY TALK

2018 Access to Medicine Index released

12 EVENTS

14 COLOUR COSMETICS Introducing Aquasens Dispersions from Sensient

Functional fillers for beauty products and makeup

Silsoft EAU, Momentive’s new multifunctional ingredient

Quality lipsticks to put on a happy face

Nilfisk helps clean up the pharma industry

Why it’s essential to have good hand hygiene practices

New oil free air compressor installed for Adcock Ingram

Goscor improves its ISO certification

30 HAIR CARE

Register to attend the 2019 P C Review conference

A closer look at Genadvance conditioning ingredients

Novel technology to care for textured hair

Gattefossé untangles the knots with Definicire

30

21 PHARMA FOCUS:

LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

Merck launches the Steritest Neo Device

Quality guaranteed at Hersol Manufacturing Labs

Analyse CBD oil compounds with Scion’s 456 GC

9 | Volume 45 January 201

Enhance and revitalise hair

| Number 1

W IE V E R g n i g a k c Pa 35

RICAN SOUTH AF

cos.co.za ww w.pharma

37 Events

2018 Gold Pack Awards highlights

38 Bottles, Tubs & Containers

The power of soft touch laminates Bottles Printers diversifies to supply packaging

41 ASSOCIATION NEWS

Enhance your

The latest news from SAAFFI and Coschem

brand

ive with innovat bs tu d bottles an

the Gold

om Highlights fr ards Pack Aw

ts Chanel inves c

in Sulapa

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

Connect and network in 2019

H

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Contributors: Nathalie le Blond, Peter Schwab, Uta Kortemeier Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti

appy New Year from the

with a representative from Optiphi – the 2018

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic

competition winner – to attend in-cosmetics

Review team – we wish all

Global 2019.

our readers and advertisers a

prosperous and innovative 2019.

Looking back at 2018, one of our greatest

Before I leave you to enjoy this edition, here’s a quick overview of what’s featured this month. In the colour cosmetics

highlights was the P C Review Beauty

section on page 14, we look at Sensient

Trends & Innovation Conference. Brilliant

Cosmetic Technologies’ new innovation,

speakers, fantastic and relevant content,

Aquasens Dispersions; Merck’s functional

and a great deal of excellent feedback are

fillers to shakeup your makeup and the

what made our inaugural conference a

multifunctional additive from Momentive,

massive success. Presentations focused on

Silsoft EAU microgel, which delivers

hot industry topics such as how to maximise

sought after benefits in aqueous colour

social media with the right content,

cosmetics formulations.

e-commerce tips, regulatory compliance,

Our pharma focus is centred on

formulating for Africa’s millennials,

laboratory equipment and services. Turn

consumer insights and great case studies

to page 21 to read about the new Steritest

on digital marketing victories.

Neo device and Scion Instruments’ 456

This year, we will take things up a notch at the P C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference where we will unpack

GC, which is equipped to analyse various compounds in cannabis oil.

To help our readers protect their workforce

ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM

some of the current issues buzzing about

and maintain hygienic standards throughout

the industry. These include clean label;

their manufacturing facilities, an array of

inclusive beauty; beauty influencers; brand

solutions and tips are featured on page 25 in

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

protection solutions; compliant beauty; the

our section on safety and hygiene.

Production Controller: Pam Moodley

importance of safety, efficacy and stability

Ingredients to condition textured hair

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

Art Director: David Kyslinger

testing and how to connect with African

are the major focus in the hair care feature

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

brands and consumers.

on page 30. Interesting reads include

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

Turn to page 12 now to read about the

the article on Clariant’s Genadvance

speakers confirmed to present at our 2019

conditioning ingredients and Evonik’s novel

conference. Details to register for the event

technology to care for textured hair.

are also included in our conference preview.

Entries are open for the 2019 P C

Enjoy the read!

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR

Review/Symrise New Product Competition

Aileen Lamb

– turn to page 13 for more information on

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

how to enter. The main prize is a trip to

Bridget McCarney

in-cosmetics Global in 2020. I’m looking

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

forward to travelling to Paris, France, in April

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Join us for the

Beauty Business & Partners 2 019

Learn from eight beauty, business and industry experts in one inspiring day to discover what it takes to run a successful company in tough economic times.

CO N F E R E N C E

• One unmissable session on the dark issue of black market beauty and how to protect your brand with anti-counterfeiting solutions.

• The following topics will also feature on the conference programme: 1. Cleaner beauty – the rise of natural ingredients, sustainable sourcing and cold processing 2. The future of beauty marketing and advertising – insight into the ASA liquidation and how to develop a marketing strategy where compliance transcends all platforms 3. Compliant beauty – the PIF and safety assessment journey of one independently owned, local brand and how the company transitioned from self-regulated to EU compliant 4. Beauty influencers – the good, the instafamous and the greedy

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW Date:

Thursday, 21 February 2019

Time:

08h30 to 16h00

Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa • Cost: R1 295.

• You will receive more information on the conference programme and speakers once

5. Private label – how one brand made it big on the basis of added value

you have booked and paid for your seat.

6. Safety, efficacy and stability – what is required, how much does it cost and why is it necessary?

Send an e-mail to abby.vorster@newmedia.

7. How to connect with African brands and consumers – first-hand advice on doing business in the beauty industry, beyond the South African border

co.za for more information.

NEWS

WALK IN MY SHOES INITIATIVE INSPIRES ASPEN TO GIVE BACK IN PARTNERSHIP WITH Aspen Pharmacare South Africa, the Morris Isaacson Centre for Music in Jabavu, Soweto, recently hosted the launch of the Walk in My Shoes initiative.

The aim of the initiative, conceptualised by Masingita Masunga, is to unite society by donating shoes to children who are the less fortunate. Born in Giyani, Limpopo, Masunga is a former TV presenter, motivational speaker and philanthropist.

Despite living with cerebral palsy – a disorder that impairs movement and affects muscle tone or posture – Masunga managed to summit Mount Kilimanjaro earlier this year.

Her drive and ambition caught the attention of Stavros Nicolaou, senior executive: strategic trade at the Aspen Pharmacare Group and the deputy minister of communications, Pinky Kekana.

‘It was a discussion on how to unite South Africans that led to both Nicolaou and Kekana to come on board and support

this great campaign. The Walk in My Shoes initiative is about breaking barriers, embracing our differences and bringing the nation together to drive a common national agenda,’ says Masunga.

On 16 December, Masunga commenced on her next brave Walk in My Shoes journey, driving from South Africa to Cairo, Egypt.

This is a massive challenge for Masunga as it took her eight years to get her driver’s license.

‘When you think of ways in which to make this country better, people like Masunga instantly come to mind. Her achievements are incredible. She is truly inspirational and continues to beat the odds. Aspen’s values are about building sustainable communities and cohesive societies, which is why we are fully backing this initiative,’ says Nicolaou.

Like the Walkinmyshoes page on Facebook, to support Masunga’s initiative and to follow her on her journeys.

Sunscreen Simulator updated with new features BASF HAS REVISED its Sunscreen Simulator – the digital lab for sun care formulations – making it more user-friendly and versatile.

The internet-based solution, which enables formulators to explore the performance of sunscreens under development before starting costly in vitro and in vivo studies, now features immediate dynamic calculations and a side by side comparison of multiple formulations, among other enhancements.

BASF’s Sunscreen Simulator supports sunscreen manufacturers all over the world in reducing their products’ time to market.

The Sunscreen Simulator is now responsive to all screen sizes, making it easy to use on smartphones and tablets as well as desktop computers.

Users can customise their simulator platforms according to individual needs by adjusting parameters such as sun

protection factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet A (UVA) metrics, region and application amount.

Favourites and projects are easy to save for future reference and data can be exported, either in PDF or Excel format.

Over the past 20 years, the tool has become an industry benchmark and is continuously improved. Even before the current update, the tool allowed users to conduct unlimited in-silico experiments to simulate key characteristics of formulations. These simulations provide insights into aspects such as the photo-interaction of different UV filters to confirm photostability, or the effects of boosting through UV filter partitioning in water and oil phases and the scattering of particulate UV filters.

The Sunscreen Simulator also gives users access to BASF’s UV filter portfolio. To explore the benefits and learn more, visit www.sunscreensimulator.basf. com/Sunscreen_Simulator.

ANDERSON ENGINEERING RECOGNISED FOR NBI EXPANSION PROJECT Charles Cammell, chairman of Sassda (left) with Hennie de Jager and John Tarboton, executive director of SASSDA (right)

LAST YEAR, ON 25 October Anderson Engineering received two prestigious Sassda Columbus Stainless Awards from the Southern Africa Stainless Steel Development Association (Sassda). A total of 189

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| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

entries were submitted by 53 companies, resulting in a stellar list of more than 60 finalists.

The winning Product Development Award was presented to the company for the new Anderson Engineering Combo Emulsi Mixer (ACE Mixer), for its breakthrough design.

The company was also named second runner-up in the Engineering category for its contribution to the recently completed National Bioproducts Institute (NBI) expansion project. Anderson Engineering was recognised for using stainless steel in all its forms and

for demonstrating a faultless example of precision and clinical engineering.

Hennie de Jager, MD of Anderson Engineering, comments: ‘I could not be more proud of our team.

The design and fabrication of the new ACE Mixer combines our years of experience in emulsification, effective technology and innovation to engineer this ultra-hygienic mixing solution. In addition, our work on NBI epitomises what we as a company do best – which is ultra-hygienic precision and clinical engineering. To be recognised by SASSDA for our work in these areas and to have received these awards, is truly fantastic and enables us to celebrate our world-class engineering.’

NEWS JARDIANCE NAMED 2018’S BEST INTERNATIONAL PHARMA PRODUCT BOEHRINGER INGELHEIM’S SODIUMGLUCOSE co-transporter 2 (SGLT-2) inhibitor, Jardiance (empagliflozin) won the 2018 Prix Galien International Award in the category Best Pharmaceutical Product.

The Prix Galien Award is presented by the Galien Foundation in recognition of excellence in scientific innovation and outstanding achievement in improving the human condition through the development of innovative therapies.

Worldwide, it is regarded as the equivalent of the Nobel prize in biopharmaceutical and medical technology research.1,2; 1. a,b,c,f; 2.a The nominees, selected by an independent committee of distinguished researchers and academics, must demonstrate tremendous potential to impact human health. 2; 2. c,d Winners of the Prix Galien Award were announced on

SCIENTISTS DEVELOP REFRIGERATED TRUCK TO TRAIN CONTAINER EXPERTS FROM THE University of Birmingham worked with one of China’s biggest railway rolling stock companies to develop the world’s first shipping container using materials that store and release cold energy.

Using phase change material (PCM), the scientists and their counterparts from CRRC Shijiazhuang developed the container, which is not only more efficient and easier to operate than conventional equipment, but also a world first.

Once charged, PCM inside the container – which can be transferred from train to truck and vice versa – can maintain the temperature between five and 12 degrees Celsius for up to 120 hours. The technology recently underwent commercial trials, transporting real goods across different climate zones for 35 000km of road and 1 000km of rail.

Professor Yulong Ding, director of the Birmingham Centre for Energy Storage, led the research at the university. ‘Energy storage is an area of world leading expertise at the University of Birmingham and cold chain technologies research is one of the most important topics at our Centre for Energy Storage,’ Prof Ding explains. ‘We have developed a productive collaboration with CRRC Shijiazhuang. This innovative technology marks the beginning of

developing an efficient and economic rail and road freight cold chain. We are proud to contribute to the development of safe and clean low carbon energy technologies in China and beyond.’

Cooling is essential to modern society, but it causes twice the global greenhouse emissions of shipping and aviation combined. If left unchecked, increasing the demand for cooling will result in spiralling energy usage with a potentially disastrous environmental impact.

‘Without an ambitious intervention, research shows the energy demand from cooling could increase five-fold by 2050, putting more pressure on global energy resources,’ he adds.

‘How the world meets its demand for cooling could have a major impact on climate change and air pollution.”

Several cold chain logistics companies in China have expressed their interest in the container, which provides a more stable temperature when compared to mechanical units.

This results in higher quality of goods delivered at their destination.

The container does not require power supply during its journey, simplifying the transfer from road to rail. The container’s location and temperature can also be monitored in real time using mobile communication technologies.

28 November at an inaugural event in Dakar, Senegal. This was the first time the annual award has been presented on the African continent.

Jardiance was selected from among 20 other innovative nominees, representing advancements in diabetes, spinal muscular atrophy and acquired immunodeficiency syndrome.1,2; 1. e; 2. B ‘We are thrilled the international community has recognised the benefits of Jardiance,’ says Dr Michael Klein, medical director of Boehringer Ingelheim, South Africa. ‘The presentation of the award on African soil is also particularly fitting and representative of our sincere commitment to the health and wellbeing of the people of South Africa and of those on the African continent.’

References available on request

FIRST INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON ORAL CARE INNOVATION BRIDGING THE GAP between industry and research, Omya will host the first ever expert oral care summit on 23 May 2019 at the Seehotel Lucerne, Switzerland.

Registration is now open at healthybite.omya.com for specialists in oral care applications, such as manufacturers, formulators and sales and marketing managers. Attendees can expect to learn from leading experts about latest developments in R&D, clinical research, materials science and consumer trends in the oral care segment.

Omya will also present technical and expert marketing knowledge from its valued industrial partners. Networking time will round up the gathering, which is intended to be an exciting new forum for specialists involved in different aspects of dental health.

The formulation of oral care products is a fascinating and vibrant field, and it’s growing every year. Yet there has never been a platform for focused exchange on the latest findings in the field of additives and ingredients.

Omya, represented in South Africa by CJP Chemicals, will change this with its Healthy Bite Conference, which will bring together leading experts from all over the world in the fields of functional and active ingredients for oral care formulations.

New findings and solutions will be on display and presented to manufacturers and

brand owners to support cutting edge innovations and economic advantages. An exclusive evening event will provide invaluable time for discussion and networking, making this new forum a great meeting point fellow experts to making contact and discovering the latest findings.

Confirmed speakers for the Healthy Bite conference are: • Prof Dr Pekka Vallittu, lecturer in biomaterials science at the University of Turku, Finland • Dr Andreas Kiesow, head of research group materials science for dentistry and cosmetics and deputy head of department, biological and macromolecular materials, at the Fraunhofer Institute, Halle, Germany • Dr Peter Hall, laboratory director at Intertek Clinical Research Services, Hooton, UK • Adrien Dromard, oral care marketing and technology consultant with 30 years’ experience in diverse positions in the segment.

In addition, Mintel, a leading global market research agency, will report on the latest oral care trends and consumer demands worldwide. •

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

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NEWS

Sanofi announces tuberculosis tech challenge winner ONE OF THE greatest challenges in the fight against TB mortality is adherence to TB treatment and completion of the course of treatment.

Last year, Sanofi launched a technology innovation challenge for tech startups to design a cost-effective, multi-device and multi-channel solution that will assist patients to optimise their TB treatment. The solution also needs to incentivise patients to complete their treatment.

Iyeza Health was named the winner of the challenge at the AfricArena Technology Conference held in November at Century City, Cape Town.

‘At Sanofi, we have focused our efforts on ensuring patient care and adherence to treatment are at the forefront of the fight against TB. We want to work with Africa’s best technology innovators to ensure patients have more access to their treatment so they can complete their TB treatment journey and enjoy full recovery,’ says Thibault Crosnier Leconte, Sanofi country chair

and RX GM for South Africa, Namibia and Botswana.

After a rigorous selection process by Sanofi executives, three finalists were chosen from the full list of challenge entrants. The finalists were Technovera, Aquity Innovations and Iyeza Health.

During the conference, each startup pitched its innovation to a panel of top Sanofi executives and key external stakeholders. The winning startup, Iyeza Health was founded by Sizwe Nzima when he was just 21. The idea came to him one day when he was collecting medication for his grandparents at a local clinic. From just one customer in 2013, Iyeza Health now delivers muchneeded medication to over 1 000 people in Khayelitsha, in Cape Town.

This innovation project addresses patient compliance with chronic medication in highly congested clinics, which are

often found in low-income communities.

Currently, up to 25 percent of patients are missing their medication collection day because of the inconvenience attached to collection.

‘We are very excited to have been a part of this challenge. Our innovation has always been geared towards making a real impact in the fight against Tuberculosis. We look forward to a constructive partnership with Sanofi to ensure that our innovation becomes more accessible across the continent,’ Nzima comments.

Sanofi’s Angie Naidoo Sanofi with Sizwe Nzima of Iyeza Health and Sanofi’s Prudence Selani

SUSTAINABILITY, SUCCESS AND NEW IDEAS IN 2019 René Hemeier (back row, third from the left) with Symrise’s scent and care team in South Africa

SYMRISE WORKS WITH its customers to develop new ideas and market-ready concepts for products indispensable to everyday life. Its innovative business approach is applied worldwide, combining its global expertise with local knowledge. In South Africa, its Scent and Care team has extensive local market knowledge, which spans both the South African and East and West African markets.

‘Africa is the big glass frontier that cannot be ignored,’ says Symrise’s vice president of fragrances for Africa, the Middle East and Turkey, René Hemeier, who visited South Africa in November. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review caught up with Hemeier during his stay to talk about key developments and the four angles of innovation at Symrise.

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| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Symrise continues to invest in R&D to develop cost-effective and performant fragrances.

The company is also a leader in delivery systems and encapsulation for home care, deo and hair care applications and is focussing on increasing its basket of halal compliant ingredients.

‘Backward integration to overcome raw material shortages and drive an increasingly sustainable and traceable ingredients supply chain is of central significance to Symrise,’ Hemeier explains.

‘We are working with many precious raw materials and create inspiring fragrances and flavours with and from them. They form the basis of our business model and the heart of many consumer-loved products.

For this reason, sustainability forms an inherent part of our DNA.’ Investing in its expertise and capabilities is also central to the company’s continued success. Subsequent to capability and capacity enhancements in 2018 in its Scent

and Care team in South Africa, Symrise is well equipped to support the growth of multinational and private label brands in the African market.

‘By combining our global expertise and capabilities in evaluation and compounding with local market knowledge, Symrise is best equipped to answer clients’ briefs in the EMEA region.

Eventually we would love to have an African perfumer attend the Symrise Perfumery School in Holzminden, Germany – someone who is culturally bound to Africa and with deeply entrenched African knowledge.’

Hemeier says emerging markets are at the heart of Symrise’s growth plans.

‘In 2019, the company will continue to invest selectively to serve the EMEA region. This includes investing in a production centre in China and expanding our facility in Nigeria with a fragrance library and new application laboratories to serve both the fragrances and flavours markets.’

STREET 1

1 New from Bio-Oil Specialist skin care brand Bio-Oil has launched its first innovation in its 30-year history. Bio-Oil Dry Skin Gel is a revolutionary oil-based formulation clinically proven to significantly improve dry skin. This next generation dry skin treatment improves on the existing technology of creams, lotions and body butters by replacing the in-active water in these formulations, which is usually around 70 percent, with oil. This makes the product 100 percent active and results in the breakthrough new gel format of the product. Bio-Oil

2

3

Dry Skin Gel is available at pharmacies and select retail outlets nationwide.

Visit www.bio-oil.com for more info.

2 Scents of summer Clere’s Limited Edition Tropical Fruits body crème and lotion are formulated with an infusion of fruity fragrances, including citrus, coconut and tropical notes. The rich gel formulation of Clere’s Tropical Fruits body lotion promises to care for skin. It is enhanced with NutriRich, which is a combination of glycerine gel, tissue oil, vitamins E and A and natural moisturising factors for soft, smooth and beautiful looking skin. The body crème is also enriched with glycerine gel and vitamins A and E to help skin retain moisture for up to 48 hours.

3 An energetic fizz NRF B-Complex fizzy is a cranberry flavoured effervescent tablet with antioxidants to boost energy and prevent afternoon slumps. Each tablet is formulated with B1 (thiamine) to ensure the body can produce new and healthy cells, B2 (riboflavin) to help prevent ageing and reduce the risk of heart

4

disease and B3 (niacin) to help increase the levels of good cholesterol in the blood and to assist with skin conditions such as acne. The fizzies also contain vitamins B5, 6, 7 and 12 as well as folic acid. NRF B-Complex effervescent tablets are available from most leading wholesalers.

4 Three steps to firmer skin Celltone has just launched a three step anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing system. The system includes a day cream, night serum and mask formulated with naturally derived collagen and keratin to visibly firm the skin. During panel testing of the new products, 94 percent of respondents said ‘Celltone Collagen Boost+ improved the appearance of their wrinkles’. Celltone products are available from Dischem, Clicks, Pick ‘n Pay, Game, RED Square, Edgars and independent pharmacies.

5 Scented home collection

5

One of South Africa’s leading beauty salon brands, Sorbet has launched a home collection of artisanal diffusers and candles. The products are made from authentic raw materials and natural scents to transform any living space. The Sorbet Home Waterfall range offers the swish of open-air bliss with a hint of the ocean. The Orient range boasts notes of caramel and sweet dates to gently transport you to a faraway land. Charming and enchanting, the Sorbet Home Chestnut range is based on the spicy scent of red earth rubies. The new Sorbet Home Collection can be purchased at all Sorbet stores nationwide.

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

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24 to 26 February ExCeL, London, UK www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

March

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Cosmetics Safety & Compliance Conference 6 to 7 March NWU Conference Centre, Potchefstroom www.nwu.ac.za

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14 March Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand www.saaffi.co.za

CosmoPack + Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics 14 to 17 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack

Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association AGM

28 March Hurlingham Office Park, Johannesburg

Nedbank Seapoint

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

❑

SAAFFI Annual Seminar & Workshop

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only.

International rates available on request.

April

in-cosmetics Global

2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global

Beauty World Middle East 15 to 17 April Dubai, UAE www.beautyworldme.com

Beauty Kenya

26 to 28 April Sarit Expo Centre, Nairobi, Kenya www.growexh.com/beautykenya 10

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

INDUSTRY TALK

Removing barriers to bring medicines within everyone’s reach Multinational pharma companies have deepened their strategic focus on Africa, doing more business in the region to benefit lower income groups. This is according to the 2018 Access to Medicine Index.

T

he Access to Medicine Index ranks 20 of the world’s

largest research-based pharma companies on how they are improving access to medicine in low and middle income

DID YOU KNOW?

Globally, two billion people cannot access medicines they need. Each year, millions of people in low and middle income countries die from diseases because the vaccines, medicines and diagnostic tests are either unavailable or unaffordable.

Source: 2018 Access to Medicine Index are supported by lower interest

countries. In 2018, the index found four of these companies had

loans provided savings are distributed. They sell oral health, pain

Novartis’ ComHIP works with private medicinal shops to offer blood pressure screenings in Ghana

Africa and then, China. Overall, the Index analysed 141 capacity building initiatives in African countries. The Index analysis only

implemented or expanded commercial

control, contraceptive and other health-

includes initiatives that meet regional needs

models in Africa which serve people

related products, together with goods

for specific capacities and cover 50 of the

in very low-income brackets. Several

such as cooking stoves.

54 African countries. Of these, 22 countries

of these models focus on products for

have no initiatives that qualified for analysis.

heart disease, diabetes and other non-

Capacity building

communicable diseases, which are on

Pharma companies are also providing

Product availability gap

the rise globally.

support to build the capacity of

A medicine or vaccine can only be

healthcare systems and supply chains

marketed in a country once it has been

Regional initiatives

in African countries. According to the

registered for sale. Yet the Index finds

In Ghana, Novartis is working with

Index, these initiatives are diverse. As an

important gaps in the registration of new

private medicinal shops in the region to

example, Takeda works with the Kenyan

innovative products in African countries.

make blood pressure screening more

Ministry of Health and other partners

While some countries have seen new

convenient and to dispense medicines

to ensure more people can access

products being filed, such as Nigeria,

from within the community. High blood

cancer care services. In Ghana, Merck

Ethiopia, Uganda and Tanzania, there

pressure or hypertension is a major risk

is working with partners including the

are 13 countries across Africa with no

factor for heart disease and affects up

government to establish a new vaccine

new product registrations identified

to 36 percent of adults in Ghana, where

manufacturing plant. Capacity building

by the Index, including Sudan, South

long and costly journeys often prevent

efforts are critical for advancing universal

Sudan, Angola and Somalia, which

people from accessing the healthcare

health coverage (UHC).

together are home to 150 million people.

they need.

‘The Index first noted pharmaceutical

One factor that promises to improve

companies taking a strategic interest

this situation is the creation of the new

set up healthcare centres throughout

in Africa in 2014,’ says Gabrielle

African Medicines Agency (AMA), which

Kenya. Deemed the Curafa Programme,

Breugelmans, director of research at the

has been tasked with speeding up the

these centres are already operational in

Access to Medicine Foundation, which

registration process of pharma products

Kiambu, Kajiado, Machakos, Makueni

publishes the Index. ‘Now we see signs

across Africa.

and Mombasa. Each provides pharmacy

that this interest is deepening. The next

and nursing services, as well as insurance

challenge is to ensure the best ideas

and working with local partners – we see this

schemes and financing for healthcare.

benefit the poorest people.’

as a good sign of long-term commitments

Merck is expanding its initiative to

In Zambia, GSK’s Live Well programme

Companies generally first invest in

‘Companies are deepening their focus

to improving health,’ says Jayasree Iyer,

trains people within the region to be

capacity building in markets where there

executive director of the Access to Medicine

community health entrepreneurs to

is commercial potential. In the Index

Foundation. ‘To radically ramp up progress,

provide affordable healthcare products

analysis, Kenya has the most capacity

more companies must stay engaged for the

to their communities. These entrepreneurs

building initiatives, followed by South

long haul.’ •

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

11

EVENTS

Have you booked your conference seat?

Following the successful P C Review Beauty Trends & Innovations Conference in 2018, this year’s event will provide the No.1 meeting place for beauty brands and industry partners.

Join us on 21 February to source exceptional business specific content from eight business and industry experts in one inspiring day.

A

variety of industry leading

acting principle investigator for the topical

ensure more inclusivity

speakers have been confirmed

product clinical trials performed at the NWU.

and diversity.

for the P C Review Beauty Business & Partners Conference.

Speaking again on this year’s conference

Beverley Gardner

programme, Leandri van der Wat, R&D

will share her immense

The programme will feature discussions

manager at Skin Rejuvenation Technologies,

knowledge on beauty

on some of the hottest topics including

will qualm the fears of those brand owners

brands in Africa and

clean label; inclusive beauty; beauty

who feel daunted by the requirements to

how to connect with

influencers; brand protection

become compliant. In

them. After taking

solutions; compliant beauty; the

2018, Leandri and the

a sabbatical, Beverley Gardner joined

importance of safety, efficacy

team at Skin Rejuvenation

Iberchem at the end of last year, to establish

and stability testing; how to

Technologies started

its sub-Saharan Africa office. Iberchem is

connect with African brands and

an extensive journey

a leading global fragrance manufacturer,

consumers and much more.

compiling product

The conference will be

Beverley Ga rdner

information files and

Lea nd ri va n d e r Wa t

Yasmin Kathoria

which has been creating engaging scents for brands since 1985. Before joining

hosted at the Media Park

undergoing safety

Auditorium in Auckland Park,

assessments of its new range of aesthetic

South Africa for 10 years, managing sales

Johannesburg. To book your seat for R1 295

skin care products, Optiphi Delta. At our

for sub-Saharan Africa for the cosmetics,

per person, excluding VAT, send an email

conference, Leandri will share the story

fragrance and aroma molecules divisions.

to abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.

about how an independently owned, local

She is passionate about all things African

brand transitioned from self-regulated to

and extremely well connected in the African

EU compliant.

personal care industry.

beauty, hair care, cosmetics and personal

Make the right connections

care industry.

P C Review is excited to have the co-

Clean beauty and protected brands

The event will also include a select group of exhibitors, which will showcase

Iberchem, Beverley worked at Symrise

their products and solutions for the

founder of Beauty Revolution, Yasmin

The session on clean beauty will be

Spotlight on compliance

Kathoria, on the conference programme to

presented by trained health and skin

With legislation on the cards for the

help beauty brands find more ways to work

care therapist, Charlene Weidner, who

cosmetics industry – governed by the

with social media influencers. Yasmin, who is

currently works in the retail space as

National Department of Health – all finished

also a business humaniser @ Innate Motion,

a consultant developer of organic

products, including their ingredients, will

was previously a global brand director

and natural skin care products and

have to undergo a safety assessment before

at Unilever for purpose branding

nutraceuticals. Charlene is

they can be put on the market.

and sustainability.

fascinated by the development in

Anina van der Walt, head of regulatory

As a brand visionary, strategic

the wellness and natural skin care

affairs & policy analysis at the Cosmetic,

shaper, creative leader and

world. She has made it her mission

Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA), will

influencer, Yasmin brings global

to understand global natural

set the record straight on the ins

expertise in building brands with

and outs of safety, efficacy and

purpose and citizen participation.

stability testing.

She has worked at the forefront of

Anina is a registered

Charlene Weidner

branding and marketing for 15 years

and organic developments and has travelled to seminars abroad to understand this fast moving industry.

pharmacist. Before joining

and consults to some of the world’s biggest

the CTFA, she worked as a

brands and businesses. Her latest project –

sessions include the dark issue of

business unit manager and

Beauty Revolution – is a growth launchpad

black market beauty and how anti-

subject specialist at the North

for the South African beauty community,

counterfeiting solutions can protect

West University (NWU) where she was

namely beauty startups, bloggers, insta-stars,

beauty brands throughout the supply

responsible for business and clinical project

hair stylists, hair and beauty brands, retailers

chain, the future of beauty marketing and

management and in vivo clinical trial

and makeup artists. The festival’s purpose

advertising in the online space and how

protocol development. She was also the

begins with using social media in order to

to develop a marketing strategy where

NWU-HREC assigned CEL project leader and

change the conversation around beauty to

compliance transcends all platforms. •

An ina va n der Wa lt

12

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Additional not to be missed conference

STATEMENT Launched a new product in 2018/19

about it ENTRIES NOW OPEN

2019

New Product Competition Contact Abby Vorster : Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281

COLOUR COSMETICS

Beauty cleans up in 2019 It can be challenging to stand out and stay relevant in the crowded beauty landscape. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies offers a range of modern solutions, which are not only on trend but also safe for the environment and human use.

P

erformance driven, effective

black hawk mascara, silver aqua flash hair

manufacturers. Athleisure beauty products

and safe – clean beauty – one

varnish and flamingo pink mascara (see

target health-conscious, active consumers.

of the hottest trends to hit the

Table 1 for the formulation guide). The latter

The makeup products are waterproof and

makeup category – goes beyond

– coloured mascara – has made a major

sweatproof because they’re designed for

natural expectations. Clean makeup is

comeback. High-end brands like Lancôme

exercise while athleisure skin care targets the

seeing brands designing products with

and retail pharmacy favourites such

pre and post workout needs of the skin.

botanical ingredients and safe synthetics

as Essence have all launched vibrantly

to ensure they go above and beyond the

coloured mascaras in everything from neon

increasingly active lifestyles, Sensient

expectations of ‘natural’.

and metallic shades to the less daring navy

Cosmetic Technologies has rounded up

blue, purple and brown options.

a range of high tech ingredients to help

Recognising growing challenges for formulators to create clean beauty

In order to keep up with consumers’

South African beauty products refocus on

products with innovative textures, Sensient

Beyond long wear

Cosmetic Technologies launched

The athleisure trend is changing the makeup

Aquasens Dispersions in 2018. This new

world. According to Sensient Cosmetic

a combination of both hydrophobic and

generation of water-based dispersions

Technologies’ market insights, long wear

hydrophilic surface treated pigments is

overcomes the issues associated with

foundation sales rose 13 percent in 2018,

required. This is because hydrophilic surface

creating a water based dispersion without

while basic foundations are on the decline.

treated pigments have been known to

glycerine. The dispersions also provide

While athleisure has been in force

excellent stability without sedimentation or

globally for over a year, the trend has only

caking while offering a guaranteed stable

just caught on among local brands and

product performance.

In order to withstand an intense work-out,

handle sweat poorly, presenting limitations in a gym environment.

Perfluoro compounds are excellent

rheological profile throughout a product’s

candidates, yet these molecules are

two year shelf life.

not created equal. While two of the

With Aquasens Dispersions, beauty

compounds, Perflurooctanoic Acid (PFOA)

brands can transform their mascara

and Perfluorooctane Sulphonic Acid (PFOS)

and nail polish products, ensuring

are known to persist in a gym environment,

they are not only eco friendly,

they are restricted in certain markets due

vegan and safe to use but also

to their environmental impact. So Sensient

highly effective.

Cosmetic Technologies has created FSP

The dispersions are available

(INCI: CI (and) Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane

in white, red and black shade

(and) Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether),

and are based on Titanium

a new environmentally friendly solution.

Dioxide, Carbon Black and

FSP is a double coated surface treatment

D&C Red 30. Sensient Cosmetic

for pigments. FluoroSilane is chemically

Technologies launched a variety

bound to the pigment, providing

of formulations to demonstrate

hydrophobicity and lipophobicity, while a

the technical advantages and

polymer is mechanically deposited on the

compatibility of the Aquasens range.

surface to provide soft touch as well as

These included an aqua flash nail colour,

additional lipophobicity.

14

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

COLOUR COSMETICS This new structure has the unique

product. These ingredients are usually

advantage of combining high long wear

added for their smoothing and softening

properties and excellent sensorial benefits in

properties and encompass a broad

powder and emulsion makeup formulations.

range of molecules that can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or silicon based. Their impact on

Feel the beauty

texture varies depending on their molecular

With today’s consumers, it’s all about the

weight, polarity and chemical composition.

experience. Harvard Business Review says

Natpure Feel M-Eco from Sensient

brands that skilfully manage the entire

Cosmetic Technologies is an example of

experience associated with their products

a natural emollient that combines the

can reap enormous rewards. These include

conditioning and moisturising benefits

‘enhanced customer satisfaction, reduced

of esters while providing a silicone-like

churn and increased revenue’.

lightness upon application.

These big benefits show us just how

Emulsifiers are molecules, or

important experience is to buyers. But

combinations of molecules, which will

what makes customer experience such a

stabilise an emulsion by structuring its

powerful driver for beauty purchases and

different phases (aqueous phase, oil phase

beauty brand loyalty? Sensient Cosmetic

or the silicone phase etc). In cosmetics

Technologies believes there are several

applications, most emulsifiers work by

reasons. An engaging sensorial experience

modifying the viscosity of the phases and

will involve as many senses as possible and

reducing the interfacial tensions between

when it comes to cosmetics, these senses

them. As they modify the structure of the

are sight, touch and smell. For example,

emulsion, emulsifiers improve the sensorial

think of the extra attention brands pay to

properties of the application by modifying

their packaging, as it is often through the

thickness or softness.

secondary container that consumers see

With Aquasens Dispersions, beauty brands can transform their products, ensuring they are not only eco friendly but also safe to use Micro-spherical powders are often

Gelling agents, also called thickeners

used as feel enhancers in makeup and

first. The sense of touch is also important as

or stabilisers, are ingredients that dissolve

sometimes in skin care applications. The

it is involved from the pick-up of the cream

in one phase to form a weakly cohesive

sensorial performances of these fillers are

structure, modifying a product’s rheology.

driven by the shape, size and chemical

completely absorbed, leaving

Going beyond the simple adjustment of

nature of the beads. Covabead Velvet 10

a unique after-feel. Texture

viscosity, modern thickeners can deeply

is made of unique polymethylmethacrylate

not only conveys a sense of

transform a texture to create unexpected

mono-dispersed beads that provide a

efficacy but also luxury and it

experiences for consumers. Covacryl

superior ball-bearing effect compared to

AC – a sodium polyacrylate gelling

traditional PMMA beads and creates an

agent – creates stringy serums that have

instant soft focus visual effect on skin. •

until well after the product has been

can differentiate one brand from competitor options.

To rise to the challenge, there

become very popular in the K beauty

are many tools available to

movement. Alternately, Covacryl MV60

formulators to obtain a desired

provides moderate gelling benefits while

feel when designing a new

contributing to a soft after-feel.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

Table 1: SCT2181/2 flamingo pink mascara

Phase

A

B

Product name

INCI

Synthetic beeswax

Synthetic Beeswax

8.00

Carnauba wax T1

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax

5.00

Stearic acid

Stearic Acid

3.00

Huile de ricin

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

3.00

Cerawax

Ceramicrocristallina

Pure water

Aqua

TEA

Triethanolamine

1.00

Natrosol 250 MR

Hydroxyethylcellulose

0.30

Zemea

Propanediol

5.00

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

0.50

Aquasens White WS 9788

CI 77891 (and) Aqua (and) Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Caprylyl Glycol

7.50

Aquasens Red WS 3720

CI 73360 (and) Aqua (and) PVP (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tetrasodium EDTA

7.50

Covacryl MT10

Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer (and) Laureth-50 (and) Aqua

C

D

% w/w

3.00 36.20

20.00

Aquasens Dispersions provide intensely bright colour in this water based mascara. The drying time is optimised because there is no glycerine in the dispersions while CovacrylMT10 provides long lasting and supple film that prevents colour transfer and offers good water resistance

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

15

COLOUR COSMETICS

Touch up your makeup

with functional fillers

Functional fillers play an important role in modern makeup formulations, adjusting their key sensorial, application and optical properties. Because there are so many options of functional fillers on the market, Merck has collated data from extensive research to help formulators select the best fillers for their products. fillers are formulation materials that

pay-off and good stability to produce the

enhance certain properties of a

unbreakable powder concept. The

product. These include pay-off,

four winning blends devised by the

texture and homogeneity. They

team include:

also provide additional benefits for

1. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Softshade

efficient claim substantiation and

2. RonaFlair MTU and RonaFlair SF-9

offer appealing properties such

3. RonaFlair LF-2000 and RonaFlair

as colour, matte or lustrous effects

White Sapphire

or a natural soft-focus effect.

4. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Flawless.

Depending on their structure, functional fillers can absorb oil and

Fillers in focus

prevent caking.

RonaFlair ESQ is a bismuth oxychloride

Merck’s portfolio of RonaFlair

T

powder. Its dry, powdery texture feels

functional fillers are composed of

great on the skin while the filler offers good

various substrates or structures,

transparency, giving the skin a subtle

such as different mineral-based

matte appearance. It also supports even

platelets and, in some cases,

product application and improves pay-off,

here was a time when ‘pigmented’

they have an additional inorganic coating

offering comfortable, long-lasting wear.

was a beauty buzzword and

to achieve a specific property. These highly

This functional filler can be used

every eyeshadow and lip gloss

engineered raw materials are exceptionally

to enhance binding capacity in

promised intense colour payoff

multifunctional; they also play an important

compact powders without giving

role in backing up bold claims.

them a tacky texture.

Later, formulators realised pigmentation

Useful online tool

smooth looking skin by maximising the

in products wasn’t everything – because

Because it can be a demanding task to

benefits of its spherical shape of the filler

there’s no point in using an ultra-pigmented

select an appropriate filler, Merck has

achieved using sophisticated coating

product if it blends badly or looks heavy and

created the RonaFlair Filler Finder guide.

technology. It is perfect for use in BB

uneven. This is especially true for

This online platform helps formulators find

creams and makeup formulations that

facial makeup.

the right functional filler for their makeup

fill in wrinkles and diffuse light, visibly

product based on the effect or claim they

smoothing the skin.

while foundations provided heavy coverage and clinged to dry patches on the skin.

Thanks to the barefaced makeup trend,

RonaFlair Flawless is ideal for creating

more commonly known as ‘the no-makeup

want to offer. They can compare functional

makeup look’, these days consumers want

fillers and their benefits to find the perfect

RonaFlair LF-2000 helps make products

balanced beauty products with skin care

match for their formulation.

stable. It is suitable for incredibly smooth,

benefits. For example, a foundation should

Another one of Merck’s newest

Thanks to its excellent compressibility,

creamy and comfortable to wear

have a light skin feel yet offer good enough

innovations is its unbreakable powders

formulations and offers long-lasting

coverage to mask any imperfections. To

solution. The technology platform delivers

performance. Products formulated with

achieve a flawless complexion, consumers

excellent stability in pressed powder

need makeup products that enhance

formulations with good pay-off. Both

their natural beauty. In order to enhance

benefits are generally tricky to achieve

a consumer’s natural beauty, Karen Maier,

simultaneously as each feature often

head of performance materials at Merck

cancels out the other. To overcome

South Africa, says a foundation should be

this challenge, Merck’s R&D team

formulated with functional fillers that deliver

took to the lab to test and screen

immediately visible optical effects.

its RonaFlair functional fillers in

According to an article written by Merck’s

terms of their pay-off and stability

international team of experts and published

benefits. The team then selected

in the March 2017 SOFW Journal, functional

filler combinations offering good

16

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

COLOUR COSMETICS RonaFlair LF-2000 glide effortlessly onto the skin and remain in place.

RonaFlair Softshade is a colourless, skin enhancing filler made of fine mica particles. Coated with Merck’s proprietary

DID YOU KNOW?

Both the RonaFlair Flawless and RonaFlair LDP White functional fillers from Merck are sustainable alternatives to plastic microbeads.

technology using titanium dioxide, aluminium oxide and tin oxide, its surface structure is designed to scatter light for a natural effect that hides imperfections. RonaFlair Softshade evens out skin for a beautiful, natural look. It allows products to glide onto the skin, leaving a dry, powdery finish. It’s perfect for mattifying face powders and foundations. It also adds volume to formulations.

A bismuth oxychloride product with improved light stability, RonaFlair MTU

or gloss of a formulation, despite the

properties achieved with its semi-

products’ inherent mattifying effect.

transparent particles, which subtly

RonaFlair White Sapphire is made

gives formulations a smooth, velvety

up of flat, smooth platelets that

texture. When added to cosmetics, they

improve the texture of formulations

comfortably glide onto the skin with a

to deliver a smooth application and

matte finish. The naturally white crystal

enhanced slip. Also known by the

platelets can be used in a wide variety of

INCI name Synthetic Sapphire, this

applications and won’t reduce the lustre

functional filler offers skin correction

support light reflection in harmony with the skin. •

Merck Performance Materials – www.merckgroup.com

A TOUCH OF UNBREAKABLE

How to acquire stability and good pay-off at the same time?

RONAFLAIR®

IS THE ANSWER

Unbreakable.indd 1

05.12.2018 10:37:02

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

17

COLOUR COSMETICS

Tailored beauty – how to solve problems in creative ways A unique formulating additive, Silsoft EAU microgel from Momentive delivers sought after benefits in aqueous colour cosmetics formulations for the prestige, mass and professional salon market segments.

T

he cosmetics industry is driven by consumer demand and the quest for the next best ingredient to satisfy the universal pursuit of

beauty. Consumers are constantly on

Table 1: Aqua Blur

Phase Ingredients Glycerin

Glycerin

Silsoft Silicone Gel

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cetearyl Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Silsoft EAU microgel

Polysilicone-34 and Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Water

1.00

Tospearl 3000A microspheres

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

0.30

C

Preservative

INCI will depend on the preservative used

D

Fragrance

INCI will depend on the fragrance used

A

brighten their skin and make it appear B

has developed around the products and services consumers use to look their best.

Keeping up with current trends in how beauty is defined is like chasing a

Wt %

Aqua

the lookout for that hot new product to more vibrant and youthful, so the industry

INCI

Water

Up to 100 5.00 36.20

7.50 20.00

moving target. This makes it challenging for brand owners and manufacturers to continuously deliver in line with

are already reflected in the many

also offers low viscosity emulsification

consumers’ expectations.

options of beauty products on the

and delivers pigment dispersion and a

Formulators need to be on the lookout for ingredients that are not only easy to use but are also equipped to transform

market and their multitude of

ordinary products into high performance

Structuring agent

solutions. Interesting textures and

Momentive’s newest

sensorial benefits are a must when

technology, Silsoft

it comes to meeting consumers’

EAU microgel enables

evolving demands.

formulators to tick all the

Tailored beauty solutions, digitalisation

unique sensory experience with a

textures and sensorial effects.

boxes when it comes to

lightweight feel.

Silsoft EAU microgel is a

DID YOU KNOW?

cross-linked particle with

According to Nielsen’s 2018 Future of Beauty Report, in 2017, the number of unique foundation colours sold worldwide rose to 679, up 19 shades from the 660 available in 2016.

the ability to swell and contract. It can function as a unique structuring agent and emulsifier. It is comprised of a water

and personalisation are three of the

modern beauty demands.

biggest drivers of the cosmetics industry,

This multifunctional ingredient

pushing brands to meet consumers’

can be used to create exciting

needs for individual products that

new products and allows for the easy

celebrate their diversity. These demands

incorporation of natural oils and

activated polyacrylate core swells

esters, sunscreen actives, humectants,

rapidly, increasing the size of the

natural actives, silicones,

microgel particles. This creates a

particulates and pigments.

space-filling effect in formulations to

The multifunctional concentrate of Silsoft EAU microgel offers

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

core bound by a proprietary silicone copolymer shell-like layer.

When water is added, its pre-

form a cohesive gel network that helps stabilise oil droplets.

The effect improves a product’s

added value on

spreadability making Silsoft EAU

both a technical and

microgel ideal for foundations, CC

commercial level. Unlike

creams and tinted moisturisers like the

traditional structuring

Aqua Blur product featured in Table 1.

agents, which are

The effect also imparts smooth, even

aesthetically unpleasant

coverage with a hydrating, refreshing

and have limited

after-feel.

benefits, the microgel

18

swellable polyacrylic

Momentive’s Tospearl microspheres

is highly compatible,

can be used in combination with

flexible and easy to use

Silsoft EAU microgel to enhance

when formulating. It

light scattering.

COLOUR COSMETICS

KEY FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF SILSOFT EAU: • extensive and distinctive textural effects • excellent flexibility and formulation compatibility • low viscosity emulsifying properties • pigment dispersion and stabilisation • quick-break application with a cooling, quick drying feel • high shear thinning for easy spreading • unique, lightweight feel despite the high oil content • lighter and easier to spread in sunscreen products.

Its innovative core-shell technology delivers a wide range of creative textural effects and a refreshingly distinctive

glycerine or highly viscous oils, including petrolatum and natural butters.

Savannah Fine Chemicals is the South

light-weight sensation, even in high oil-

African agent for Momentive. Silsoft EAU

based products.

microgel, Silsoft Silicone gel and the

Silsoft EAU microgel helps improve the spreadability of organic and inorganic

Tospearl microspheres are all available locally from Savannah. •

sunscreens, which are typically tacky or draggy on the skin, improving the use of sun protection products.

The responsiveness of the microgel to pH and concentration enables a wide

Momentive – www.momentive.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

range of texture and sensory effects, all with a unique, lightweight water-fresh feel. The microgel’s silicone shell can greatly reduce tackiness, even in the

Flexible and multifunctional

presence of heavy ingredients such as

The flexibility of Silsoft EAU microgel helps enrich skin care formulations, accentuating the unique beauty of the user and delighting their senses with a water-like, refreshing skin feel.

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

19

COLOUR COSMETICS

A beauty indulgence that won’t break the bank Women have been using lipstick for years to put on a happy face. Lipsticks have become a staple product in most makeup bags and have evolved to be more durable, comfortable to wear and transfer resistant. Some even have added anti-ageing and lip plumping benefits. By Abby Vorster

consistency which are used to modify feel and other properties important in a lipstick.

For example, Pecosil AS improves mould release for lipstick during manufacturing and imparts high gloss in lipsticks when used in conjunction with Pecosil ARS-09.

Phoenix Chemical Pelemol DP-144B is said to be a truly unique polyester. The product was developed through the outcome of a chemical reaction between dipentaerythritol, tetrapolyhydroxystearic acid and behenic acid. Pelemol DP-144B is 100 percent active, tacky and substantive.

It will hold three times its weight in water

S

and is a superior lipstick ester, producing

Lipstick is almost every woman’s

required by consumers with darker skin

moisturisation and occlusive humectancy.

go to for an affordable beauty

tones. Phoenix Chemical’s technologies are

Compared to lanolin-based lipstick, this

fix, particularly during economic

not only suitable for lipstick applications but

polyester product increases the melting

decline. The phenomenon was first

also cosmetics, personal care products and

point of a lipstick by five degrees Celsius,

OTC pharma products.

without compromising on its velvety finish

dubbed ‘The Lipstick Index’ by Estee Lauder’s chairman, Leonard Lauder, demonstrating

The company has expanded into a

or payoff.

how purchases of these small beauty

multinational organisation with agents

indulgences increase during tough times.

worldwide, allowing Phoenix Chemical to

Esters, whether synthetic or vegetable derived, are key ingredients in lipstick formulations

serve customers globally. In South Africa,

Pigment dispersion and transfer resistance

Essential Specialised Products is the

Another ingredient developed by way of

exclusive agent and distributor for Phoenix

a chemical reaction, Pelemol T91854 is

Chemical.

a polymeric ester principally composed

Esters, whether synthetic or vegetable

of the product produced when isostearyl

derived, are key ingredients in lipstick

alcohol reacts with trilinoleic acid. It is a

formulations. They have multifunctional

dark amber, tasteless liquid with virtually no

properties including solvency, pigment

odour. Pelemol T91854 has high emolliency

wetting, lubricious substantivity,

and is extremely glossy on skin. These

superior cushion, gloss, emolliency and

properties strongly suggest it could be

spreadability as well as the benefit of

used as an effective pigment dispersant in

moisturisation. The ester Pelemol BB is

lipsticks and other lip products, like glosses

economists and activists, calling the

formed when behenic acid reacts with

or stains.

phenomenon ‘feminist’ and generally

behenyl alcohol. It is completely vegetable

invalid. Estee Lauder still believes its

derived with an off-white appearance and

can formulate a moisturising lipstick with

chairman’s theory holds value today. Think

is sold as a 100 percent active oil soluble

a velvety finish, or one with high gloss and

of your own spending habits and what you

flake. When introduced into the oil phase of

excellent payoff. But what about transfer

gravitate towards when faced with uncertain

an emulsion, Pelemol BB will build viscosity

resistance? Phoenix Chemical produces

times. Often, it’s an affordable beauty

at low solids for a richer feel, making it a

a range of Giovarez film formers. Each has

product like lipstick or a cost-effective

very cost-effective ester.

a slightly different property, yet their key

But his theory was later debunked by

manicure to boost your confidence and

benefit is they dry to glossy water-insoluble

escape from reality – if only for a short while.

Siloxane waxes and superior esters

Quality lipstick technology

Siloxane waxes form a large component of

Phoenix Chemical develops proprietary

lipstick formulations. The Pecosil AS-A series

and unique chemical technologies

from Phoenix Chemical includes a range

and ingredients to create quality lipstick

of alkyl or alkyl aryl polydimethyll siloxane

products. Its ingredients also ensure lipsticks

waxes. The alkyl or alkyl/aryl functionality

meet the performance and colour payoff

varies to produce waxes of different

20

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

With Phoenix Chemical’s products, you

films, making them highly effective in transfer-resistant lipstick systems. •

Essential Specialised Products – www.esp-sa.co.za Phoenix Chemical – www.phoenix-chem.com

Lab Equipment & Services //PHARMA FOCUS

New device for more reliable sterility testing Merck has launched what it calls ‘the latest evolution in sterility testing devices’ – the Steritest Neo device. This new laboratory apparatus provides safer pharmaceutical product testing with greater reliability and convenience, to release a product to market with total confidence.

T

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

he global company’s expertise in sterility testing goes back more than 40 years since the invention of the original Steritest closed filtration system. This new fourth generation unit marks the latest evolution with the Steritest Neo device, which –

along with improved ergonomics – includes the following benefits: • easy to open accessory bags • 25mL gradation mark for accurate pre-wetting step measurement • coloured clamps to easily differentiate media filling • clearer labelling with colours, drawings and barcodes for easy identification

ALPHA

FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha

TANGO

FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango

• peel and stick labels for maximum traceability.

These improvements enhance the user’s experience with no change in the materials that come into contact with the tested fluid or in performance specification. The membrane and canisters undergo stringent integrity and microbiological tests. The closed Steritest Neo devices are supplied with certificates of quality, with data gained from rigorous in-process and release testing to ensure peace of mind.

Colour-coded for easy identification For products without antimicrobial agents, the blue canister base indicates mixed esters of cellulose membrane filters. This membrane

BRAVO

Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo

provides an optimal filtration flow rate for standard products.

Closed Steritest Neo devices are supplied with certificates of quality The red canister base has a low absorption Durapore PVDF membrane and specific drainage design. This optimises the rinsing of products that inhibit microbial growth. These

OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

are ideal for antibiotics and products with antimicrobial agents.

The green canister base has increased chemical compatibility and indicates low absorption with the Durapore PVDF membrane, specific drainage design and polyamide canister polymer. It is ideal for products dissolved in solvents. •

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics

The newest Steritest Neo device from Merck Millipore

Merck – www.merckmillipore.com/ZA

Innovation with Integrity

FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

21

PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services

Quality assurance begins in the lab Quality control is an important tool in the production of safe and effective herbal remedies and health supplements. At Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories, quality is non-negotiable – from raw materials and ingredients, to production processes and packaging – all products made in its facility must comply.

H

ersol Manufacturing

or alternative medicines, regardless of

Laboratories (Hersol) is one

their positioning, must be validated as

of South Africa’s leading

safe, quality and effective products that

contract manufacturers

are produced in compliant facilities. For

of pharmaceutical products. The

this reason, the same stringent methods

company specialises in developing and

of testing and quality control apply to

producing complementary medicines

all products produced within Hersol’s

(CAMs), nutritional supplements and

manufacturing facility.

pharmaceuticals.

Quality guaranteed

André Buhrlen, managing director of Hersol, strongly believes the company’s focus on quality is unparalleled in the industry. ‘We have developed a strategy to become the best contract manufacturer in terms of quality and service delivery,’

DID YOU KNOW?

Micro and stability testing are valuable methods to confirm

According to the World Health Organization, 80 percent of the emerging world’s population relies on traditional medicine for therapy.

he explains.

Micro and stability testing are valuable methods to confirm the safety and quality of a product

the safety and quality of

1

a product. Hersol has its own in-house analytical facility that includes a microbiological laboratory.

All assays and tests, necessary to ensure a product’s

quality is of a high standard, are performed by qualified laboratory personnel. These employees are also responsible for quality control and quality assurance throughout Hersol.

The microbiological laboratory is fitted with cleanrooms and a separate air handling system. This is in addition

This is because it’s the manufacturer’s

to the company’s second instrument

responsibility to ensure the

room, which was added to the existing

supplements it produces, be they

laboratory for analytical method

liquid, tablet, capsule or powder

development and validation, for

format, are standardised, quality

the testing of raw materials and

products that match the descriptions

finished products.

on their labels. As a result, Hersol has manufacturing standards using

Combining knowledge with experience

different types of equipment to

Hersol is proud of its years of

produce various dosage forms.

manufacturing excellence. The history of

always followed careful, consistent

The herbal medicines and CAMs

the company demonstrates its ongoing

products that Hersol manufactures are

commitment to its customers and the

not only intended for the South African

public, to produce products based on

market, but many of the products are

strict parameters of quality, safety and

also exported into Africa. The company

efficacy – now and into the future.

has noticed an increase in demand

The company’s team of pharmacists

2 1: Hersol is equipped with its own in-house microbiological lab 2: Hersol is staffed with qualified analysts who ensure the quality of the finished product 3: Hersol produces a wide range of products including African herbal remedies, dietary supplements, CAMs, vitamins and minerals

3

remedies they can trust which are safe, effective, formulated with ingredients from

for herbal medicines in various African

has extensive expertise in the changing

reputable sources and manufactured in

regions as more and more consumers

regulations in South Africa and what

accordance with GMP. •

choose to manage their health and

will be required of CAMs and health

wellbeing with dietary supplements.

supplements in the years to come. As a

This creates new opportunities for

result, it can also guide African brand

compliant brands to thrive in the African

owners on how to meet quality and safety

market. Yet Buhrlen advises all herbal

requirements, to offer consumers herbal

22

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories – www.hersol.co.za

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.

The new 5 cubicle dispensary and sampling facilities

Hersol’s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products.

It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments.

Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.

Handling of Raw Materials when weighing and dispensing is handled in accordance with Medicines Control Council guidelines

Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association – HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2

fax: +27 11 614 4615

email: admin@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

23

PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services

Rapid cannabis-based analysis now a reality If you’re looking to explore the promising landscape of cannabis-based medicinal products, Chromspec has introduced a new GC to the South African market. The Scion Instruments 456 GC is equipped to analyse the various compounds in cannabis oil.

I

n September, the Constitutional Court decriminalised the private use

To analyse THC, CBD and the less common compound,

and cultivation of cannabis yet guidelines regarding the production

cannabinol or CBN, as well as residual solvents in cannabis oil,

and distribution of cannabidiol are still a work in progress. In a

Chromspec recently introduced a new gas chromatograph

statement, the Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

(GC) from Scion Instruments. According to the company, which

said it ‘noted the Constitutional Court ruling’ and ‘the judgement

specialises in chromatography, this GC system makes cannabis-

follows similar developments around the world where various countries

based analysis quick, easy and highly inexpensive.

are decriminalising cannabis either for medicinal use, recreational

Chromatography solutions in focus

purposes or for both’.

According to the World Health Organization, several countries

Kevin Reeves, managing member of Chromspec, says the

have modified their national controls to accommodate Cannabidiol

business has specialised in laboratory instrumentation,

(CBD) as a medicinal product. CBD is one of the major chemical

specifically chromatography, selling GC and gas

compounds that occur naturally in cannabis. Another is THC or

chromatography/mass spectrometry systems (GC/MS) systems

tetrahydrocannabinol, which is associated with euphoria and

for over 26 years.

relaxation, while CBD is becoming increasingly valued for its medicinal properties.

Chromspec is the sole accredited agent for Scion Instruments, a leading supplier of GC instrumentation and solutions, which is head quartered in the UK. These GC and GC/MS systems are configured for use in pharmaceutical labs.

Reeves explains: ‘These systems are used to analyse alcohol in liquids like cough syrups; residual solvents, using the USB method

Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions

467; and for essential oil analysis, such as eucalyptus and tea tree oils.’

The company supplies three different makes of GC and GC/ MS, covering the full range of GC and GC/MS instrumentation – from basic routine instruments to advanced research and development systems.

‘We have GC and GC/MS specialists to advise customers on the optimum GC package for their laboratory. We also have an IT specialist to advise and train on our software products. All our GC and GC/MS units are installed by fully qualified engineers and a full training programme is provided with every system,’ he comments. ‘Full installation qualification or operational qualification are

Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

also available if required.’ •

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.

The Scion Instruments 456 GC for cost-effective cannabisbased analysis

Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!

Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 24 | JANUARY 2019 | P1 C Review

Chromspec – www.chromspec.co.za Scion Instruments – www.scioninstruments.com

20-07-17 12:52

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Cleaning up SA’s pharma industry Wearing the correct personal protective equipment is one way to guarantee operators’ safety in a manufacturing environment. Vacuuming is another integral part of the production process and central to maintaining optimal hygiene standards. as the instruction manuals are significantly

For example, exposure to active

condensed.’

pharmaceutical ingredients (API) can pose serious health risks for operators,

Quality on an international scale

particularly APIs designed to produce

Pharma manufacturing worldwide is

biological change in the human body. This

guided by Good Manufacturing Practices

is an unacceptable effect for a machine

(GMP) and, in South Africa, overseen by

operator or facility worker, which is why it is

the National Department of Health.

vital to ensure the highest levels of safety

Detailed GMP guidelines were

in a manufacturing facility. This is not only

initially established by the World Health

central to avoiding contamination, but also

Organization (WHO). Many countries,

to prevent operators from coming into direct

including South Africa, have formulated

contact with a harmful substance.

their own GMP guidelines using the WHO ones as their basis.

Two of the main guidelines of pharma GMP pertaining to cleanliness and hygiene, state: • facilities must be cleaned and high standards of hygiene and quality must Nilfisk’s range of industrial vacuum cleaners are designed to clean inside process equipment and all external areas in the processing vicinity

H

be maintained from procurement to product • cross-contamination must be prevented by temperature and

eavily regulated, the South African

humidity controlled environments and

pharma industry is a major hub

by limiting access to authorised staff

for exports and economic growth.

only with proper work gear.

As opportunities in the industry

Siervi comments: ‘Medicines

Developments in technology have made it easier to implement and track the performance of cleaning machines Apart from wearing the correct cleanroom garments and personal

increase, so too will the need for greater

produced in South Africa and exported

protective equipment to guarantee

regulatory control.

to the US, for example, are also under

operators’ safety, vacuuming is also an

the scrutiny of the FDA to ensure they

integral part of safety and hygiene in the

industry will come under more scrutiny,

comply with US regulations. So, the FDA

medicine production process.

demanding closer collaboration

requires documentation detailing how

between suppliers of cleaning solutions

manufacturing equipment is cleaned and

cleaners are specifically designed to

and pharmaceutical companies. This

that the manufacturing facility has been

clean inside process equipment and all

is according to Luca Di Siervi, Nilfisk’s

through a process of validation.’

external areas in the processing vicinity. An

Ultimately, hygiene and safety in the

business development and key account manager for the pharmaceutical industry.

‘We need an integrated approach when it comes to our machines, to provide the right level of performance. Machines of

Nilfisk works closely with its clients in

Nilfisk’s range of industrial vacuum

industrial vacuum cleaner helps avoid cross

the pharmaceutical industry in terms of

contamination maintaining the condition

globally applicable quality control and

of the process machine, thereby extending

maintaining hygiene standards.

its life span. It also collects and contains all

‘We analyse each client’s requirements

kinds of waste and dramatically reduces

substandard performance can impact

and assist with a customised cleaning

the final product in a manufacturing

solution and machines suited to a specified

environment,’ Di Siervi explains.

application,’ says Siervi. ‘Contamination

– those using the machines to create a

Developments in technology have

cleaning time.

‘Nilfisk is interacting with the end user

– dust or otherwise – in areas where

clean environment for pharmaceutical

made it easier to implement and track the

pharmaceuticals are produced is

manufacturing – to look at ways of

performance of cleaning machines.

unwelcome and can have an adverse

enhancing its processes and protocols,

effect on the finished product or process.’

which include an environment free of

He adds, ‘The need for easy to use cleaning machines is becoming the

contaminants,’ Siervi concludes. •

norm in the pharmaceutical industry. At

Keeping operators safe

Nilfisk, we endeavour to meet this need,

Operator safety is another major focal

resulting in reduced costs for the business

point in pharmaceutical manufacturing.

Nilfisk – www.nilfisk.co.za

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

25

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Hand hygiene in manufacturing It is vitally important to protect your workforce against work-related illnesses in any manufacturing environment, to maintain peak productivity levels and quality standards.

Protecting employees’ health and safety is also a regulatory requirement.

By Nathalie le Blond, category manager at Rentokil Initial

I

t is essential for workers to stay healthy

but there are also other costs to a

and avoid illness. Employers need to

business such as absence from work, lost

ensure they provide the right facilities

or reduced productivity, compensation,

and appropriate, well-maintained

poor staff morale and negative publicity.

personal protective equipment. This forms part of treating workers with dignity and

Bathrooms

respect.

The standards of the bathrooms within a

The manufacturing workforce may

manufacturing site often vary between

conditions and contaminants, making skin easier to clean.

2. Cleanse – Encourage workers to avoid unbearable skin irritations by washing away contaminants whenever they stop work. Hand cleansers can be tailored to suit the needs of each workplace environment.

be transient and can be made up

the office and the actual manufacturing

of migrant, student, contract, direct

facilities. The office bathroom needs to

restore every time they wash their hands

employees and any other type of worker.

promote the factory image, conveying

to reduce the risk of developing painful

The workforce is influenced by work load

a sense of pride in the company’s

dry skin. Conditioning cream maintains

and seasonal aspects and the common

heritage and history. The bathrooms in

healthy skin and helps avoid dryness.

practice of shift work means employees

the manufacturing facility itself should be

work in close proximity with each other.

clean and provide the right provisions for

Breakout/canteen areas

This increases the risk of germs spreading.

the employees using them.

Communal areas where employees

With approximately 80 percent

The bathrooms across a facility need

of common infections being transmitted by touch, it is essential for manufacturing businesses to have good hand hygiene practices.

Although 71 percent of all absences in the manufacturing sector are minor (under seven days)

DID YOU KNOW?

to be clean and inviting for both

One in six people admit they don’t wash their hands every time they use the toilet.

and caused by illnesses such

visitors and staff, so implement a rigorous cleaning schedule

3. Restore – Workers should replenish and

gather are great spaces to build hygiene awareness and to promote a cleaner, safer workplace. Highlight the consequences of poor hygiene practices and the potential

based on peak timings

cost impact to the business by using posters

and traffic to guarantee

in breakout areas. Scenting products

bathrooms are kept clean.

can be used to help control and minimise

Also ensure bathrooms are

smells that may derive from malodour

well-stocked and hygiene essentials such as hand soap and paper towels are always

producing bacteria in breakout areas, and air disinfection units can also help reduce airborne micro-organisms. Provide hand

as the common cold, occupational

available.

sanitiser dispensers to support your drive to

skin disorders are also prevalent. So,

Keep it smelling fresh. Bad smells

increase hand hygiene standards.

good hygiene is a critical component

can be a deterrent for people using the

in minimising the spread of workplace

bathroom and odour is often cited as a

The production line

illnesses such as the common cold and

reason for leaving without washing hands

Germs can remain on surfaces on

applies to all areas of the premises, from

properly. Consider no-touch solutions to

manufacturing and other equipment within

the bathrooms and kitchen areas, to work

make sure workers wash their hands prior

a production line, for up to 48 hours. This

spaces, manufacturing and packing

to returning to the production line.

lines as well as storage areas.

Skin protection

Hand wash areas By protecting, cleaning

Hands in the manufacturing environment

and restoring the skin on

are vital tools to get the job done,

employee’s hands, you

but every day workers are exposed

can prevent dermatitis

to contaminants and conditions that

and maintain a healthy

can be harmful to their skin. Examples

workforce. A three-step

include detergents, liquids, chemicals,

process should be followed

mechanical oils, greases, resins,

to ensure skin is protected

paints, sealants and even hot and cold

against external aggressors

conditions. Occupational skin disorders,

and damaging substances:

including work-related eczema, which

1. Protect – Because

commonly go unreported, account for

prevention is better

11.2 percent of all occupational diseases.

than cure, add a layer

The cost of these problems can be

of protection before

significant and is widely accepted to be

work every day. Pre-

severely under reported. Not only are

work creams protect the

there personal costs for the employee,

skin against workplace

26

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

SAFETY & HYGIENE can increase the risk of cross-contamination

floor mats will help reduce the risk and absorb

from surface to hands. Take care to reduce

dirt and water, preventing them being tracked

the risk of cross contamination by having

through the facility.

a thorough cleaning regime as well as

Make hand sanitisers available in reception

providing hand wash stations where

areas to help elevate hygiene standards.

necessary.

Display certificates of hygiene and pest

A no food or drink policy should be introduced and maintained in production, storage and packaging areas. Pay

control audits for customers’ and suppliers’ peace of mind.

Hygiene – hand hygiene in particular – is

particular attention to employees’ personal

vital in manufacturing not only to ensure the

hygiene and that of the premises and

health of workers and the public is protected

equipment. Waste management plans

but also to ensure a quality product. •

should also ensure regular disposal to minimise the risk of pests.

Initial – www.initial.co.za

Reception or entrance When customers or suppliers arrive at a facility, the reception is often their first point of contact and an important reflection of your company. Ensure they are welcomed into a clean and hygienic environment that reflects well on the hygiene standards of your manufacturing facility.

2

High-touch surfaces such as reception counters and door handles harbour bacteria that can cause skin infections, food poisoning and respiratory diseases.

Employees and visitors can bring in contamination on their shoes, so having

1

1: Making hand sanitisers available in various high traffic areas, helps to elevate hygiene standards in a manufacturing environment 2: Appropriate, well-maintained personal protective equipment is an occupational health and safety requirement

PHARMACEUTICALS • SCHEDULE 5 AND 6 • COSMETICS • MEDICAL DEVICES • AEROSOLS • RAW MATERIAL • MANUFACTURING WASTE • QC LAB WASTE • BIOLOGICAL AND ANATOMICAL WASTE • CHEMICALS • SOLVENTS • PESTICIDES • ON-SITE WASTE MANAGEMENT • WASTE TRANSPORT • AND MORE

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

27

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Contaminant and oil-free air makes for good medicine Portable air and power solutions rental company, Rand-Air supplied an Atlas Copco ZT315VSD oil-free air compressor to Adcock Ingram. This South African pharmaceutical company manufactures and markets a wide range of healthcare products, many of which are distributed into Africa.

T

he pharma industry

to the facility’s manufacturing

is an important

capability.

vertical target sector

The unit is well-suited for the

for Rand Air. Henry

rigorous 24/7 duty cycle required

Fourie, Rand-Air’s business

by the customer. Its output is

development manager for

critical in ensuring uninterrupted

long term rental, approached Adcock Ingram at the end of 2017 with a solution for a

Byrone Thorne

standby compressor at its steriles

MANUFACTURING LIFE SAVING PRODUCTS

production. The rental supply

ADCOCK INGRAM’S CRITICAL care division

contract is for a period of three

has four key operating areas: medication

years.

delivery; transfusion therapies; haematology

A reliable supply of completely

and bioscience, and renal. This division is a

and critical care manufacturing facility in

contaminant and oil-free compressed air

leading supplier of life saving products. The

Aeroton, Gauteng, South Africa.

is essential for high-speed pharmaceutical

portfolio includes intravenous fluids, renal

mixing processes. It is also essential for

dialysis systems, products for the storage of

a key role in South Africa’s pharma supply

blending and packaging and for Adcock

blood and blood components, infusion systems

chain, producing a range of intravenous

Ingram’s in-house water plant, which

and accessories as well as a comprehensive

fluids, renal dialysis products, large and

produces the sterile water used to formulate

range of wound care and ostomy products.

small volume parenterals, as well as

injectable medicines. This water is also used

Adcock Ingram’s Aeroton facility plays

The critical care factory in Aeroton, Gauteng,

medical-grade sheeting for steriles and

as the final rinsing agent for any component

is the only integrated medical-grade plastics

blood collection bags.

that comes in contact with the actual

and pharmaceutical manufacturing facility

medical formulation, such as vials, ampules,

on the African continent. The facility was

caps and stoppers.

upgraded in 2012 and attained compliance with

Byrone Thorne, marketing manager of Rand-Air, says: ‘Despite quotations from

the International Pharmaceutical Inspection

competitors, our successful track record in providing reliable, safe, quality and

Focus on what matters most

Convention and Pharmaceutical Co-operation

superior customer service won Rand-Air

With the Atlas Copco ZT315VSD, the

Scheme (PIC/S).

the job.’

lead time from order to delivery was a

The Aeroton facility is already

comparatively short period of 14 weeks.

This is very much in line with Rand-Air’s

equipped with two centrifugal

This included the time it took to modify the

rental ethos, where the customer is given

compressors, which supply oil-free air.

unit per the customer’s requirements.

the freedom to concentrate on its core

This high-purity oil-free compressed air

While it is the customer’s responsibility

business, leaving the responsibility for the

is fed into an extensive stainless steel

to make sure the compressor is suitably

provision of essential, contaminant and

piping installation, which prevents

located and secure, Rand-Air’s high-

oil-free compressed air to Rand-Air. •

rust formation, oil carry-over or other

quality service and maintenance

contamination.

agreement is all part of the package. In

‘The Atlas Copco ZT315VSD, with its 1

the unlikely event of any issues with the

557 cubic feet per minute, 8.6 bar supply,

unit and its functionality, Rand-Air will

is highly suitable for this application as

be on hand to supply an

it provides completely contaminant-free

interim replacement unit.

and oil-free air,’ adds Thorne.

‘So, it really is a hassle-free

Rand-Air – www.randair.co.za

service we offer,’ asserts

Reliable backup supply In this instance, Rand-Air did not supply a

Thorne.

Adcock Ingram’s

dryer as Adcock Ingram takes the feed from

process improvement

the Atlas Copco ZT315VSD through its own in-

project engineer, Johan

house dryer. While it is a standby unit, in the

Bredenkamp adds: ‘We

event of an operational issue with one of the

were pleased with the way

in-house centrifugal compressors, the Atlas

the installation went and

Copco ZT315VSD would take over the supply

are happy to have this

of compressed air with minimum disruption

extra standby capacity.’

28

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Atlas Copco ZT315VSD standby compressor installed by Rand-Air at Adcock Ingram’s Aeroton facility, in Gauteng, South Africa

SAFETY & HYGIENE

At the forefront of new standards

In a milestone achievement that asserts an uncompromising stance towards quality, health and safety, Goscor Lift Truck Company is the first forklift supplier to attain both the ISO 9001: 2015 and OHSAS 18001 accreditations in South Africa.

Q

uality and health and safety

and OHSAS 18001 standards in

have always been top

February 2018.

priorities at Goscor Lift Truck Company (GLTC), the sole

The new standard in focus

distributor of the Crown, Doosan, Bendi

Unlike the previous standard, ISO

and Hubtex forklift brands. Its recent

9001: 2015, released in September

successful promotion in certification

2015, expects organisations

from ISO 9001: 2008 to ISO 9001: 2015

to understand their objectives

and the OHSAS 18001 accreditation

before establishing a quality

verify the company’s relentless focus on

management system.

exceptionally high quality standards with no compromise to health and safety.

GLTC set the ball rolling in 2016 when it

The new standard is intended to help organisations achieve excellence through improved

successfully achieved the ISO 9001: 2008

customer focus and enhanced

accreditation. Hard work and dedication

business performance. The revisions will

saw the forklift supplier successfully

enable organisations to enhance their

improve its certification to ISO 9001: 2015.

existing quality management programme

7

Practical training for GLTC technicians

PRINCIPLES OF ISO 9001:2015:

‘We are the only forklift company in

by defining and documenting processes,

South Africa to have both the ISO 9001:

training employees, ensuring better supply

1. customer focus

2015 and OHSAS 18001 accreditations,’

chain relationship management, adopting

2. leadership

confirms MD, Darryl Shafto.

a risk-based approach to quality and

3. engagement of people

regularly involving the leadership team in

4. process approach

quality management.

5. improvement

Attaining these accreditations was purely due to hard work. ‘The route to certification wasn’t easy,’ says GLTC

However, according to the new standard,

6. evidence-based decision-making 7. relationship management.

director, Anthony Fouché. ‘It called for a

the primary focus of an organisation’s

lot of tough work, which took long hours.

quality management programme is to

The accreditation process started in 2016

meet customer requirements and exceed

its commitment to health and safety within

– it was arduous, but worth the effort.’

expectations in terms of the quality of your

the company. It enables the company to

products and services.

manage operational health and safety

One of the main contributors to the company’s certifications is, from outset,

Organisations would do well to

risks and improve performance. The

GLTC has employed the right people in

comprehensively research, analyse

standard addresses the following key

the positions best suited to their expertise

and understand both the current and

areas: hazard identification; risk assessment

and skills. Heather Morgan’s appointment

future needs of the business and adjust

and determining controls. Other areas

as national health and safety officer

programmes and processes to deliver

of focus include allocation of resources,

and Thando Khumalo appointment as

on these goals. It is also important to

roles, responsibility, accountability and

assistant health and safety officer are

align organisational objectives to market

authority; competence, training and

two examples.

trends and communicate them across the

awareness; communication, participation

organisation. It is also essential to implement

and consultation; operational control;

overseen by Germany’s TUV and ran

programmes and processes to measure

emergency preparedness and response;

for two days at each national branch.

customer satisfaction and act on the results.

performance measuring, monitoring

The intensive audit process was

GLTC successfully met the ISO 9001:2015

and improvement.

OHSAS overview The Goscor Lift Truck Company’s team responsible for maintaining the health and safety at its facility in Chloorkop, Gauteng

Accreditation offers benefits beyond

With the successful implementation

those that are internal. ‘When we pitch

of OHSAS 18001, GLTC is putting its

for new business, companies audit us

employees’ safety and well-being at the

and see for themselves how we operate.

top of its agenda. Sound occupational

Within 15 minutes of a facility site visit, it’s

health and safety policies are not only

obvious we have been audited by TUV and

essential for employees, but also are

accredited with ISO and OHSAS standards,’

important for your customers and

he concludes. •

other stakeholders.

Fouché reiterates GLTC’s OHSAS 18001 certification is a strong sign of

Goscor Lift Truck Company – www.goscorlifttrucks.co.za

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

29

HAIR CARE

Enhance and revitalise hair with Genadvance

Clariant’s Genadvance hair conditioning ingredients, launched at in-cosmetics Global 2018, are not only advanced but also based on detailed global consumer research. By combining science with consumer demand, the company has delivered what it calls a ‘first for the hair care industry in terms of targeted conditioning performance’.

O

ver the past two years,

wavy hair. The range consists of the

brands and ingredients

repair, hydra and life variants, with each

suppliers have invested

focused on a specific claim or benefit.

heavily in researching

Genadvance Repair does what its

African hair types to better understand

name promises, helping to restore

consumers’ hair care needs. L’Oréal

damaged hair to a sleeker, smoother

South Africa’s recent study on the perceptions of consumers with tightly curled, curly and wavy hair, revealed the following: • hair volume is too intense • hair is difficult to manage in its natural state • hair growth is slow as a

DID YOU KNOW?

and healthier state. Its strong protective properties also

help to prevent future hair In all geographies, damage. Genadvance women experience hair damage and/or dryness, Repair is probably the making it a primary hair most weight-efficient care concern. Because the damaging factors cannot ingredient in its class, entirely be avoided, consumers making it highly are now seeking care and repair solutions to help economical to use. them achieve stronger, Suitable applications healthier and more manageable hair. include masks, treatments,

result of the slower turnover of cells in the keratinocytes in African hair

shampoos, styling gels and conditioners.

Genadvance Life restores hair’s

Genadvance Repair is probably the most weight-efficient ingredient in its class, making it highly economical to use time in hair care history, Clariant says the Genadvance hair conditioning ingredients overcome the limitations of conventional quats. This allows for the development of individualised products and novel hair care formats.

‘When compared to traditional quats, the Genadvance ingredients are proven to be more conditioning. They also allow for transparent formulations, have better biodegradability profiles,’ says Santhum

• hair is fragile and more susceptible

vivacity. The conditioning ingredient is

Moodley, Clariant South Africa’s sales

to breakage

particularly effective on thin and limp

manager ICS for the personal care,

• scalp hydration is a challenge,

hair, revitalising it by increasing volume

industrial and home care and

resulting in discomfort that leads to

and improving shine. This eco-friendly

pharma markets.

itching and sensitivity.

ingredient can be used in a variety of

Based on these findings, it’s easy to

applications, especially silicone-free hair

multicultural consumers seeking natural

understand why Euromonitor reported

care products. It is ideal for shampoos,

solutions to care for their hair, brands

in 2017 that African consumers spend

conditioners and hair shine sprays.

need support from their suppliers when

more on hair care than Caucasians.

Genadvance Hydra is a 100 percent

Aside from meeting the needs of

it comes to improving the sustainable performance of their products.

The global analyst firm says the

naturally derived, Eco-cert approved

demand for Caucasian hair care

ingredient. It delivers a great after-feel

products slowed down in 2017 due to

on dry hair, improving moisturisation

core going forward, and so, in saying this,

a lack of innovation and fewer new

and manageability. Because of its

we aim to create and evolve our offerings

product launches. However, sales in

properties, Genadvance Hydra is

for more responsible partnerships with

the Ethnic¹ hair care category have

suitable for baby shampoos. It is also

brand owners and manufacturers looking

been far more dynamic.

ideal for natural hair care products,

to improve their carbon footprint using

shampoos, conditioners, moisturising

biodegradable ingredients,’ she adds.

Leading speciality chemicals company, Clariant developed the

serums and detangling sprays.

‘At Clariant, sustainability is really our

Genadvance Hydra and Genadvance Life have been awarded Clariant’s

Genadvance hair conditioning ingredients to revolutionise customised

Sustainable excellence

EcoTain sustainable excellence label

hair care products, such as those

Besides the outstanding conditioning

for providing above market standard

formulated for tightly curled, curly and

and detangling benefits, for the first

sustainability benefits. To achieve this

30

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

HAIR CARE

label, the company follows an intensive screening programme for every product based on 36 criteria, which look at all three dimensions of sustainability, being people, planet and performance.

Formulation innovation Curl definition, bringing new life to hair, the repairing feature and rich moisturising functionality are the key drivers of the range, making the Genadvance conditioning ingredients

Buyer’sguide

ideal for African hair care formulations.

For example, Genadvance Repair

could be incorporated in mass market

THE

conditioner formulation without pushing the price point of the product.

Moodley explains: ‘We have innovative

substantiation, and tailor it to African

ways of shaping a formula by removing

consumers’ hair care needs using a cost

the now “less necessary” ingredients,

performance strategy.

hence reducing the cost.’

How it works is Clariant’s R&D

Genadvance test results show the

ingredients address the manageability

experts take an innovative formulation

issues and intense dryness of tightly

or product, which is backed by

curled and kinky hair, which makes these

clinical testing for efficacy and claim

hair types brittle and prone to breakage. •

REFERENCES:

1. Genadvance has been tested on Ethnic hair at

Clariant’s Hair Care Competence Centre, located in São Paulo, Brazil.

2017/2018

Clariant – www.clariant.com/personalcare

THE

Buyer’sguide 2018/2019

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

31

HAIR CARE

Novel technology to care for textured hair

Naturally curly, textured hair is drier and more delicate than other hair types. Uta Kortemeier and Peter Schwab of Evonik Goldschmidt discuss how to develop modern conditioning and moisturising formulations to cleanse and care for Ethnic hair.

T

he Naturalista hair care trend

foaming challenges. Formulators

surfactants, such as dialkyl

continues to flourish, particularly

should also bear in mind that, in the

sulfosuccinates. This allows for the

among Ethnic consumers

eyes of the consumer, foaming is still

incorporation of exceptionally high

with women all over Africa

the key performance indicator for

levels of oil (up to 50 percent) and

transitioning back to wearing their hair

cleansing capacity.

curly instead of relaxing or straightening it.

In standard micellar

Natural hair care bloggers continue to

surfactant formulations,

fuel the trend, sharing advice and insights

the addition of oil to

into transitioning and how to manage

the surfactant base

natural hair. This is because chemically

leads to instabilities in

straightened hair is often much easier to

the formulation. These

manage than natural textured hair.

become apparent

Because Ethnic hair tends to knot and

either by a breakdown

combines very good foaming

in the viscosity or by

easily, especially at the curvature area.

phase separation between

Alongside manageability, this makes

the oil and aqueous phases.

Sebum migration down the hair shaft

characteristics with smooth and aesthetic textures.

New research from Mintel reveals that Black women are most likely to wear their hair natural (no chemicals) with noheat styling (40%) and natural with heat styling (33%). For a boost in confidence, 51% of women say their current hairstyle makes them feel beautiful.

tangle and is dry and frizzy, it breaks

breakage another key hair care concern.

DID YOU KNOW?

This concept is very flexible regarding both the level and the type of cosmetic oils and surfactants used, enabling the preparation of novel, truly two in one rinse off

formulations with excellent

Structured surfactant systems

cleansing and outstanding care

offer a viable option for incorporating

properties.

is also limited due to the wide diameter

exceptionally high oil levels in

and tight curvature of the hair fibres.

surfactant based formulations.

contain 15 to 50 percent natural

This makes hair care formulations with a

Structured surfactant-containing

oils, three to nine percent Tego

significant refatting efficiency essential for

formulations are compositions in

Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl

Ethnic hair.

which the surfactants are aggregated

Sodium Sulfosuccinate), three percent

in the form of lamellar phases

Sodium Laureth Sulphate and three

Multicultural consumers are looking for products with multiple functions that

dispersed in the aqueous

provide moisture and care to the scalpš.

phase. These multi-

There is an opportunity for brands to add

lamellar vesicles have an

functionality to existing product lines to

onion-like configuration

develop multifunctional products that

of concentric bilayers of

increase usage and help consumers

surfactant molecules with

personalise their hair care routines.

water trapped in between

Mintel’s research shows that Ethnic

(see Figure 1). Based on

consumers are more interested in product

their rheology, structured

innovation that addresses their concerns

surfactant compositions

rather than new hair care methods.

can suspend and stabilise

Typical standard formulations

significant amounts of

Structured surfactant systems

insoluble materials, such

The incorporation of a high level of oils

as oil droplets, and deposit

in a shampoo formulation is one way

them efficiently on surfaces

to deliver an innovative product with

with the addition of water.

multifunctional qualities.

Larger amounts of hydrophobic

Evonik has developed a novel structured surfactant

substances in surfactant based

system using relatively low

formulations can create stability and

amounts of hydrophobic

32

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Figure 1: Multilamellar vesicles in a structured surfactant system

HAIR CARE Figure 3: Results of the consumer evaluation of a high oil shampoo (UL 5761/67). A total of 20 panellists (including seven African Americans) completed a questionnaire after using the product

consumer test confirmed the benefits

Opuntia Biocomplex SH

of the structured surfactant-based test

Obtained from the juice of the

creamy and highly viscous, showing the

shampoo. During washing, the tested

leaves or cladodes of Opuntus ficus,

rich appearance of typical W/O creams,

product was found to be easy to apply.

this powdered extract contains a

but with a similar foaming performance

It provided a very smooth hair feel while

natural blend of mucilages and other

as typical micellar surfactant

shampooing and had good rinseability.

polysaccharides. The valuable nutrient

formulations (see Figure 2).

Flash foam, foam quantity and foam

profile of Opuntia Biocomplex SH is as a

creaminess were all satisfactory. Figure

direct result of the water which is stored

3 illustrates the results of the consumer

in the cladodes, beneath their prickly

test.

surface. This natural gel has a long

percent Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

With 50 percent oil, the formulation is

After washing, the test product

history of traditional use among farmers

provided good hair smoothness, easy

in southern Italy. They would apply the

combability and soft hair feel. As for

cladodes onto their skin to moisturise it

dry performance, most respondents

and protect skin wounds.

reported their hair felt moisturised,

Figure 2: The appearance of structured surfactant system with 50 percent oil

Opuntia Biocomplex SH produces a

smooth, soft and easy to manage.

physical barrier on the skin, protects

A significant reduction of frizz was

it, deeply moisturises it and promotes

observed. As expected, participants

cutaneous reparative processes. It

with kinky, curly and/or relaxed

can be used to formulate moisturising

hair reported a greater benefit and

and skin repair products, especially for

satisfaction than participants with

babies’ sensitive skin (see Table 1) and is

naturally straight or fine hair.

ideal for anti-ageing serums. •

The cleansing conditioner

This novel technology from Evonik

Table 1 shows a two in one

provides a suitable refatting shampoo

conditioning shampoo based on the

base for dry and brittle hair and

new technology. To optimise the hair

effectively re-moisturises the hair.

REFERENCES: 1. Mintel GNPD, New approaches for black hair care, November 2018

care properties, Evonik’s Varisoft EQ 100 is added. This is a novel, liquid cationic surfactant with excellent hair conditioning properties. The cationic surfactant also increases the stability

Table 1: UL 5761/67 Refatting conditioning shampoo

Phase

of the formulation and enhances the deposition of the hydrophobic components on the hair surface, including on the more damaged The conditioning performance is intensive and particularly suitable for level controls volume effectively. In addition to standard sensorial and instrumental techniques, a small

% w/w

Water

ad 100 0.5

Polyquaternium-10 A

regions.

curly or frizzy hair. The high overall oil

Ingredient

10.7

Sodium Laureth Sulphate, 28 percent Tego Betaine F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

7.9

Glycerine

2.0

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

50.0

B

Varisoft EQ 100 (Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate)

1.0

C

Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate)

4.0

D

Preservative, Perfume

q.s

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

33

HAIR CARE

Untangling the knots In 2021, the global hair care market is forecast to reach US$89 billion, increasing by almost 24 percent from its value in 2016¹. What is driving this phenomenal growth and why is there such a strong appetite for new innovations? Gattefossé answers these questions.

60 percent of the global population has curls, coils or waves

and the first conditioning effect. Gattefossé’s balm-to-oil hair treatment is an innovative hair balm that transforms into an oil, creating a soft moisturising film to deeply nourish hair.

Hair serums, which help to soothe and balance the scalp, are also popular.

Modern styling products intend to give movement and shape to hair while reducing

by opting for sustainable and

‘flyaway’ or frizz. With Gattefossé’s frizz

natural products, treating their

control formulation, humidity and unwanted

hair as they do their skin.

volume are nothing but a bad memory for

This is a global concern.

curly and frizzy hair.

Another unconventional step is the

In Asia, ‘free from’ claims are

T

growing rapidly. In Europe and

night treatment for hair. Gattefossé’s

North America, superfood and

mangolicious night cream is a formulation

oday, there is a strong parallel

probiotic based products are emerging as

that can be applied on the hair before

between the skin and hair

well as gluten-free claims. In India, these a

going to sleep and rinsed in the morning,

care markets with novelties

growing demand for products inspired by

giving extra moisturisation and exotic touch

in hair care now strongly

Ayurvedic medicine.

to the hair (much like a night cream would do for the skin).

linked with those of the skin care². The routines, claims, textures and targets

Curls make waves

have become very similar. Day care,

The textured hair care category has

Gattefossé are available on request

night treatments, dies to enhance

become the fastest growing and most

from Carst & Walker. They all feature the

grey, sprays for temporary rainbow

dynamic of all in the beauty industry.

international company’s new hair care

coloured hair – all these products are becoming more and more popular.

Another new trend is the movement to embrace hair’s natural texture³.

The hair care formulations from

ingredient, Definicire, which is based on functionalised vegetable waxes that recreate the natural protective lipid layer

Even beards are pampered with a wider

A total of 60 percent of the global

and complete range of offerings. Basics

population has curls, coils or waves.

on hair. Definicire’s performance has

such as shampoos and stylers are being

Recently, consumers with curly, wavy or

been validated on different hair types

reinvented in new textures and formats.

frizzy hair have stopped relaxing their hair in

and confirmed by a hairdresser. The

Hair care is now for everyone and

order to celebrate their natural textures.

ingredient ensures perfect hair discipline in

consumers can find products adapted

Products designed for curly and wavy

all climates, it controls static electricity,

to their personal hair care needs,

hair are gaining strength in the market.

enhances the smooth feel of hair and

regardless of their age or gender.

Indie brands targeting the specific needs of

protects it from pollution. •

If you want to know more about

curly, wavy and textured hair are enjoying

emerging hair care claims, keep an eye

rapid growth while mainstream and

on skin care innovations. Among the

multinational brands have expanded their

REFERENCES:

trendy topics are anti-pollution, UV and

ranges to reach consumers who wear their

1. Euromonitor: Global haircare overview part 1:

visible light protection, scalp care, deep

hair naturally curly.

moisturisation, multi-functionality and

rooting hair in the numbers, October 2017 2. GlobalData’s market data, trends and opportunities across the global hair care landscape, 2018

anti-ageing. Emerging hair care claims are

An innovative routine

3. Cosmetics Business – August 2017 hair care

following the latest skincare innovations.

Forget the old shampoo, condition and

market report

style routine. Today’s hair care routine

A natural approach

is more sophisticated and includes an

Consumers are more concerned about

increasing number of products.

the ingredients in their beauty products.

So, they tend to avoid certain chemicals

34

| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Pre-shampoo, the first step of the new hair care regimen, provides deep moisturisation

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com

PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN

January 2019 | Volume 45 | Number 1

www.pharmacos.co.za

Enhance your brand

with innovative bottles and tubs

Highlights from the Gold Pack Awards

Chanel invests

in Sulapac

NEWS

VAST EXPERIENCE AT THE HELM OF NOVUS PRINT

Chanel invests in Sulapac’s beautiful plastic alternatives

SOUTH AFRICAN COMMERCIAL

gradually take over the reins from

TO SHOULDER THE development of Sulapac,

printer and manufacturing company,

Novus Print’s current group executive,

French luxury house, Chanel recently invested

Novus Holdings has appointed Andre

Conrad Rademeyer.

in the Finnish company, which is listed among

Smit as group executive of Novus Print, commencing 1 February 2019.

Smit’s appointment serves

Andre Sm

it

‘Andre’s unwavering integrity makes

the top 100 hottest start-ups in Europe by Wired

him the perfect candidate to drive the

Magazine. This is Sulapac’s first investor from the

Novus Print strategy, achieving volume

cosmetics industry.

To tackle the accumulation of non-

to bring continued stability

and synergies across all printing

to the printing division, as

plants while standardising processes

biodegradable plastics, the Finnish company has

he has been with the group

to achieve maximum efficiency and

developed an innovative material that responds

for over 20 years. He brings

driving organic growth in existing

to the growing need for environmentally friendly

with him vast institutional

operations. We look forward to the

products and packaging.

knowledge of both the

positive contribution he will make in

Sulapac products use a biodegradable and

print and manufacturing

his new role,’ comments Neil Birch,

microplastic-free material made of FSC-certified

landscapes. Smit will

Novus Holdings’ CEO.

wood chips and natural binders. They have all the benefits of plastic, yet they biodegrade

NEW PLASTICS|SA CHAIR TO ENCOURAGE GOVERNMENT COALITION

completely and leave no microplastics behind.

Replacing plastic with Sulapac is easy – the material can be utilised on manufacturers’ existing machinery, without the need to build

AT ITS AGM in November,

new factories. This 100 percent biodegradable

Plastics|SA welcomed

packaging outperforms other sustainable

Mxolisi Khutama as its new

alternatives in terms of having a unique look,

chairman for 2019.

its barrier properties and fast biodegradation.

Executive director, Anton

Since starting its journey in 2016, Sulapac has

Hanekom, acknowledged

won many international awards with its products

that the global plastics

that combine luxury, sustainability and unlimited

industry is having to contend with ongoing negative messages and

Bernhard Mahl, Mxolisi Khutama and Anton Hanekom

mounting pressure to

design possibilities.

‘We have set a very high, quality standard for our sustainable material, with an ambition to replace plastic, and we are very pleased to

minimise the environmental

does not do enough to ensure proper

welcome Chanel, a leading brand representing

impact of plastic packaging.

waste management in the country.

the most demanding luxury segment, among our

‘With the appointment of our new

On the other hand, government thinks

investors,’ says Suvi Haimi, CEO and co-founder

chairman and the support of a strong

the responsibility lies with the plastics

of Sulapac. ‘Chanel is definitely one of the

and energetic board of directors, I

producers. Whilst it is true human

forerunners in the luxury segment as it wants to

believe we are ready to change the

behaviour needs to change, there is

invest in the latest sustainable material available

playing field,’ he said.

no incentive to do so if the necessary

and technology innovations. Our mission to save

infrastructure is not in place. It is clear,

this world from plastic waste just became even

wealth of knowledge and expertise

Plastics|SA has a vital role to play

more achievable.’

in operations, business development

both in society and in the government

and administration gained in

space,’ Khutama stressed.

Khutama brings to the table a

both the polymer, healthcare

Despite the bad press the plastics

Sulapac has raised funding from several investors such as Lifeline Ventures, Ardent Venture, Eerik Paasikivi, Ilkka Herlin and Saara

and business environments. He is

industry has had to contend with this

Kankaanrinta, Planvest, and Mika Ihamuotila. In

currently the group executive of

past year, good has come out of it.

July 2018, Sulapac received the Horizon 2020

rigids at Nampak Packaging.

‘Design for recycling’ has become an

SME instrument grant from the European

integral part of manufacturing, resulting

Union, while Business Finland has also

as chairman of the board, who will

in more successful collaboration

funded the company.

remain deputy chair. ‘The concept

across the value chain as brand

of a life without plastics, specifically

owners, retailers and governments

single-use plastics, has become

seek new technologies to solve industry

a worldwide trend. The media is

challenges and change irresponsible

overrun with anti-plastics messages

human behaviour.

Khutama replaces Bernhard Mahl

and campaigns, which fuel negative

‘There are still many challenges that

perceptions. The consumer blames

we need to overcome in 2019. We know

plastic products for pollution, whilst the

it won’t be easy, but it will definitely be

plastics industry believes government

worth it,’ Hanekom concluded.

36

| JANUARY 2019 | Packaging Review

Entirely made of wood and natural binders, derived from the renewable resources of Finnish forests, packaging using Sulapac’s material can be produced using standard injection moulding, extrusion and blow moulding techniques

EVENTS

The Gold Pack stamp of approval South Africa’s most innovative packs were announced at the 2018 IPSA Gold Pack Awards. The prestigious event was held on 14 November at the Inanda Club in Sandton, Johannesburg.

T

he Institute of Packaging SA (IPSA) Gold Pack Awards is the

showcase for the South African packaging industry. Since the inception of the awards programme in 1973, it has grown into a significant

DID YOU KNOW?

STAND OUT BEAUTY PACKAGING

1

In the Health & Beauty

category, the Gold Packaging industry veteran, medal was awarded Charles Muller was awarded the 2018 Packaging SA to Syndicate Graphics, Gill Loubser Packaging Amka Products and Achiever Award (previously converters RPC known as the Packaging Achiever of the Year).

Astrapak and Golden

and prestigious event.

According to IPSA, the competition for medals is fierce, culminating in an awards event that offers everyone involved or interested in packaging an opportunity to celebrate and network.

Gold, Silver and Bronze medals are awarded to finalists in various categories, as well as the ultimate Gold Pack Trophy.

‘The Gold Pack Awards are

Era for the Satiskin shower gel dispensers.

The Gold Pack Awards are intended to showcase excellence in packaging craftmanship According the judges, each variant of

2

1: Representatives from Annique and RPC Astrapak Consupaq show off their Bronze medal 2: Nick Swan of Britepak and Claudi ten Cate, Rejuvenesse brand manager, show off the finalist’s medal awarded to the health products brand for its redesigned packaging

submitted by the converter, RPC Astrapak Consupaq. The Bronze medal was awarded to Annique Health & Beauty’s Rooibos Spa Shower Butter and Hand Butter tubes also submitted by RPC Astrapak Consupaq.

intended to showcase excellence

this range carries a strong individual

in packaging craftmanship,’ says

image and concept while binding to

such as RPC Astrapak Consupaq, RPC

Bill Marshal, national secretary of

overall brand architecture, not only

Astrapak, Syndicate Graphics, Golden

IPSA, ‘this includes, but is not limited

across the fragrances but also across

Era and Britepak is elevating packaging

to innovation.’ The judges look for

pack sizes. The organic shape and

standards in healthcare and beauty

packaging that displays the state

curves of the foam bath are echoed

industries. Their solutions and those of all the

of professionalism and quality of

in the ergonomic shape of the bottles.

other Gold Pack Award winners are proof the

packaging produced in South Africa.

Fine details, such as the two tone caps,

South African packaging industry has the

Entries are open to packaging

visi-strip, carefully crafted typography

potential to manufacture packaging on par

produced in South Africa for Africa and

and effective use of shrink sleeves, create

with some of the best offerings worldwide.

packaging produced in Africa yet not

a strong brand identity. Nutriwoman

in South Africa. There are many other

Derma Care tubes won the Silver

information about the awards and the full list

categories and awards.

medal in this category. The entry was

of winners of the 2018 programme. •

11900 - PROPAK AFRICA 2019 VISPROM ADVERT NEW MEDIA 177X65_V2.indd 1

The innovative approach of companies

Visit www.goldpack.org.za for more

2018/08/22 09:22

Packaging Review | JANUARY 2019 |

37

BOTTLES, TUBS & CONTAINERS

The power of soft touch The simple addition of a material can change the complete look and feel of an average bottle. The result is premium, luxurious packaging – in this instance for hair care products. PACKAGING REVIEW explores the innovation behind soft touch laminates.

P

ackaging designers, converters

and brand owners have the same goal when it comes to packaging for beauty brands – to enhance the brand by elevating

packaging of the hair care brand,

DID YOU KNOW? According to Luxepack New York, in

Quick Grow. Now available in South Africa, this hair care range is produced using

advanced amino acids 2016, neuroscientific studies measured the emotional impact and positivity on to assist the hair growth consumers who touched products in soft process. touch packaging. The results showed the consumers positivity increased substantially when interacting with soft THE TECHNICALITIES OF touch packaging and seven out of 10 customers would choose products SOFT TOUCH packaged with soft touch over Quick Grow shampoo and any other lamination.

its tactile and visual appearance, ensuring

conditioner are packaged

resistant to scratches. Colours are also emphasised with soft touch laminates making them appear more vibrant. The finish is completely printable and can be done directly onto the packaging as demonstrated by Bottle Printers, the printing supplier of Quick Grow.

Impress Pac manufactures and supplies the soft touch bottles. Co-owner of the packaging company, Bret Protti, says the PP interior protects the actual products housed within the packaging and prevents

in a soft touch bottle to enable

any form of permeation. The bottles are

a positive association with the

comfortable handling. The finish also

recyclable in a PP stream because both

brand and its packaging.

prevents the product slipping from wet

layers consist of polyolefin.

When consumers pick up a product, they interact with it. People respond to colours, feel, texture and even weight, so a product’s packaging should stimulate their senses. Associations with the brand are then developed in the minds of consumers.

Soft touch, initially developed for

hands, when used in the shower or bath.

The finish has a unique velvety feel Soft touch containers are made of a

Soft touch laminate is an ideal packaging option for premium personal care products and can be used for jars, tubes and closures as well as bottles. The finish has a unique velvety feel. It is said to deliver a sensation of warmth and a feeling of wellness when consumers come into contact with it.

double-layered plastic. Polypropylene

shower gel packaging approximately

(PP) is the polymer used to manufacture

MODE OF CONSTRUCTION

10 years ago, has a number of visual

the interior whilst a special polyolefin

This type of packaging is produced using

and physical characteristics. This

laminate is used to produce the

double extrusion. The blow moulding

laminate is used for the primary

exterior. The laminate adheres

process involves the production of hollow

perfectly to PP. It not only has special

products like bottles and containers using

tactile characteristics but is also

thermoplastics. The thickness of packaging produced using blow moulding can vary in thickness. The procedure begins with melting the plastic, which is then formed inside a tube-like piece of plastic called a parison. It has a hole in one end through which compressed air passes. The air is blown out after the parison is clamped into a mould. The pressure of the air pushes the plastic out to match the mould. When the plastic has cooled down and hardened, the mould opens and the part, which is the plastic, is ejected. •

Bottle Printers – www.bottleprinters.co.za Impress Pac – www.impresspac.com

38

| JANUARY 2019 | Packaging Review

BOTTLES, TUBS & CONTAINERS

Bottle Printers expands its offerings Beauty and personal care brand owners now have access to a sustainable and flexible supply of packaging options from Bottle Printers, the professional glass and plastic printing company.

B

ecause its customers continue to

comes to minimum order requirements,

face challenges when it comes to

we’ve set the MOQ as low as 300 units for

sourcing packaging, Bottle Printers

certain stock items. With bigger quantity

has made a bold move to become a

orders of custom packaging, between 5

distributor of rigid plastic packaging

000 and 10 000 units, customers will be

and components.

able to specify masterbatch colours to

Richard Irwin of Bottle Printers explains: ‘In

match their branding. Stock items will be

South Africa, bottles, tubs and jars are not

available immediately while a lead time

readily available and require stock holding.

of about two weeks will be required for

The minimum order requirements can be

custom items.’

very high and lead times of up to six weeks can be damaging to a brand, especially

THE BEAUTY OF CONVENIENCE

when products go out of stock.’

‘We want to bring added convenience

The company has diversified into sourcing

to sourcing packaging, particularly for

and supplying packaging to become a one

startup Ethnic hair care brands, which

stop shop from a packaging perspective.

are growing in numbers in South Africa.

The bottles, tubs and containers, as well

Social media, the natural hair care trend

as the closures supplied by Bottle Printers

and direct selling are seeing brands

are produced locally. To secure supply, the

popping up everywhere and we want to

company has gone as far as to get involved

help these brand owners with the hassle-

in the raw materials aspect of producing the

free sourcing of their packaging. Even if

packaging and, in the future, will lay down

they don’t want the packaging printed,

moulds to develop new bottles not offered in

we will be able to accommodate them,’

the market.

he comments.

A DIVERSE COLLECTION

added value of sourcing and printing

second plant located in Bramley View,

Bottle Printers distributes a wide variety of

their packaging at one location, Bottle

Johannesburg, where we print on glass

rigid plastic packaging for cosmetics and

Printers’ plastic division, situated at

with organic and high stove enamel/

beauty products. Stock and custom items

the Kyalami Business Park in Midrand,

ceramic inks, as well as coat glass bottles

are available in PET, HDPE, LDPE, PETG

is a three level multi-story factory for

in an array of colours.’ •

and polypropylene.

foiling and printing on plastics in either

For those customers looking for the

‘We can also source glass bottles if

conventional or UV inks, using multiple

needed,’ Richard adds. ‘Because we

printing methods, in one to six colours.

aim to be as flexible as possible when it

Richard adds: ‘We also have four fully

These are just some of the stock items of rigid plastic packaging available from Bottle Printers

automatic four colour machines and a

Bottle Printers – www.bottleprinters.co.za

Packaging Review | JANUARY 2019 |

39

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Smoking hot trends at the SAAFFI seminar Will you attend the 17 annual SAAFFI seminar?

The event takes place on 14 March at the Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng and will feature relevant content to inspire deeper thinking. th

M

A MEMORABLE YEAREND FOR COSCHEM

T

he Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosted its Johannesburg year-end luncheon on 15 November at Casalinga Restaurant in Muldersdrift, Gauteng. Despite the intense heat, the event offered guests an unforgettable dining experience and the

opportunity to network with old and new faces from the cosmetics and personal care industry.

THE JHB YEAR-END IN PICTURES

any of the ingredients and technologies utilised today in fragrances, flavours, cosmetics, food and beverages were once taboo. Some, like cannabis, are quite contentious,

while others, such as synthetic and natural ingredient blends used in the fragrances industry, are rather progressive. These developments set the tone for the 2019 seminar, which is themed ‘taboo or not taboo’.

Sharon Bolel, assistant executive director of the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry (SAAFFI), comments: ‘Our 2019 seminar will be a bit off the wall to open attendees’ minds to creativity and innovation. We’re not giving them mainstream content but rather fascinating concepts to inspire deeper thinking.’

WHAT’S ON THE PROGRAMME? The full day programme features an impressive line-up of speakers and a hands-on workshop. Some of the presentations include: • diversity and inclusion specialist, Roy Gluckman will discuss inclusion and equality in the workplace at the keynote presentation • Beverley Gardner, who recently joined Iberchem to set up the global fragrances and flavours company’s southern African office, will share new fragrance trends • the creators of Poison City Brewing will discuss Cannabis infused beer • food fraud and issues surrounding false claims will be highlighted

by FACTS • the panel discussion will focus on SAAFFI’s role in whistle blowing, its standing on taboo issues and how to act. The panel will also touch on corporate governance in the cosmetics industry and transitioning from self-regulation to enforced regulations • futurist, Charlotte Kemp will reveal taboos of the future and how to navigate them.

To end of the seminar on a high note, a variety of interesting delicacies will be served during the networking cocktail function.

These include an insect based ice cream, Mopani worms and a unique SAAFFI infused beer created by brewmaster, Apiwe NxusaniMawela. She is the first black woman in South Africa to establish her own microbrewery, Brewster’s Craft, where she also introduces students to the science of beer making.

Visit www.saaffi.co.za/events for more information about the seminar and to book your seat for the event. •

P C Review | JANUARY 2019 |

41

Tea time

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| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,

Chemists’websitewillfindinformation

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on membership, educational

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M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

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Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

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