Battle of the beauty brands

Local beauty and personal care brands are going head-to-head in the 2020/21 P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition. The submission window closed on 1 June and we’ve received record number of 36 entries, which will be assessed on 19 August by our esteemed panel of judges.

More than a battle of the brands, the New Product Competition is a peer review programme that gives entrants access to constructive feedback, expert advice and extensive exposure across the print, digital and social platforms produced and managed by Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review.

The New Product Competition is now in its 13th year. Since its inception, P&C Review and Symrise – the sponsor of the competition – have been encouraging innovation in the cosmetics industry. However, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we did have to postpone the 2020 event, which gave us time to re-strategise the competition.

When entries opened in October 2020, we introduced a freshly focused and re-energised event of 100% relevance to all players in the cosmetics and personal care industry, from mass market brands to prestige cosmetics and private label products. One of the biggest changes was the introduction of categories based on market segments, which include:

• Mass

• Masstige

• Prestige

• Privé Label.

The entries scoring the highest in each of the four segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition. This was important in ensuring a level playing field and that products entered of the same price point/market segment are judged together.

Introducing the 2020/21 entrants

World-leading probiotic skin care brand, Esse launched its Resurrect Serum in September 2020. Created for sensitive and sensitised skin, Esse Resurrect Serum harnesses the power of probiotics and biotechnology to provide high-level hydration and antiwrinkle effects. The serum is formulated Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract, bakuchiol, gamma aminobutyric acid, hyaluronic acid and probiotic lysates that contain anti-microbial peptides.

Classic Barrier Repair by optiphi targets the restoration of skin’s protective barrier. It regulates oil production encouraging a blemish-free complexion and boosts skin vitality by increasing the water content which in turn enhances the water retaining ability for long-term hydration. Vitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) in the formulation calms and soothes while encouraging skin reparation, Syringa vulgaris (lilac extract) aims to reduce oil production and stimulates an additional calming and anti-microbial effect. The colour correcting pods improve the appearance of breakouts and redness for an even tone.

With the introduction of Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural), Bio-Oil has harnessed the power of science and nature to match the efficacy of its original Skincare Oil – with a product made entirely from natural ingredients. Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural) is formulated with a powerful combination of three base oils, four specialist oils, two vitamin oils and five plant extracts. Each ingredient was selected for its ability to deliver the same results as the original Skincare Oil – to be effective in treating scars, stretch marks uneven skin tone, ageing and dehydrated skin.

Taahirah Night Repair moisturiser is a restorative and rejuvenating night treatment cream with a multi-functional approach to combating signs of ageing and environmental damage. A synergistic combination of ingredients including vitamins E, C, A, and B3, sodium hyaluronate, amino acids, and alpha hydroxy acids work together to repair oxidative damage caused by daily pollutants and UV exposure. They also stimulate collagen and elastin production, hydrate the skin and support lipid barrier function to prevent TEWL.

Skin Creamery’s Wildflower Water-Cream is a lightweight emulsion that will leave skin feeling soothed and refreshed. This multipurpose beauty elixir deeply hydrates the skin, while botanical extracts work to smooth and refine the skin’s surface, creating a primed finish with a youthful glow. According to Skin Creamery, 100% of the total ingredients in the Wildflower Water-Cream are of natural origin. These include Spilanthes acmella and aloe leaf extracts. Levulinic acid and squalene are also included in the formulation.

The Fijnbos Duo from Sh’Zen combines the magical, healing properties of Cape Fynbos with African superfruit oils and aloe ferox to deliver intense restorative energy to skin. The Facial Essence blends the medicinal and restorative properties of six fynbos oils with wild-harvested African superfruit oils, which are rich in essential fatty acids to nourish and protect skin. The Cape Cactus Jelly offers a cell-energising and skin-hydrating boost. Aloe ferox and the fynbos oils also help to calm skin irritations, minimise signs of fatigue and restore skin’s radiance and luminosity.

Shower to Shower Sensitive is a personal care range that caters specifically for women with everyday sensitive skin. The new range consists of a sensitive roll-on and deodorant as well as a tissue oil-enriched body wash, all of which are infused with soothing chamomile. The roll-on is formulated specifically for delicate underarm skin while the deodorant is both gentle and effective on sensitive skin. All three products in the range are lightly fragranced, giving consumers more choice compared to current sensitive skin options on the market which tend to be fragrance-free.

Skin Solutions Skincare is specifically formulated for South African skins. Developed by Dr Parushinee Naidoo, the range is said to be medical-grade and offer significant benefits in improving existing skin care issues, while slowing down the ageing process. The range includes a rejuvenating cleansing gel, sheer hydration lotion, intensive moisturising cream, cellular rejuvenating complex, clarifying serum, pigmentation correction cream, advanced retinol formulation and vitamin c concentrate in which natural ingredients such as aloe vera, avocado and citrus are balanced with active ingredients such a glycolic acid, lactic acid, retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.

The Phyto Eye Contour leave-on treatment mask by Kalahari Lifestyle is developed with the latest scientifically proven ingredients to improve blood circulation and lymphatic drainage, which will assist with puffiness and dark circles underneath the eyes. The formula effectively treats and stimulates the delicate eye zone with ingredients such as caffeine; a superior peptide complex; vitamin C, P and K; liquorice root extract and new generation peptides. The mask is also said to improve skin firmness and dermal tightness around the eye area.

Hair Stuff, hair serum is the first product to be launched by CP Cosmetics. The founder of the brand, Charis Lewis faced hair thinning as part of her cancer treatment. So, she formulated, tested and launched Hair Stuff to restore the appearance of volume in thinning hair. Hair Stuff is formulated with the cosmetic technology, Redensyl, which contains four ingredients that work in synergy to achieve the desired results. These are glycine, zinc, Camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract and Larix europaea (Larch) wood extract.

The advanced formulation of the Classic Eye Effect by optiphi is specifically developed for the eye area, where the skin is much thinner and more delicate. The smart skin technology offers an enhanced focus on skin’s integrity, radiance, collagen stimulation and structural support providing an advanced multi-targeted treatment approach. A visible improvement in expression lines, wrinkles and hydration is delivered by through the use of ultra-filling spheres, while the acetyl hexapeptide-30 and arginine focus provide superior synthesis of collagen and elastin to prevent and improve expression lines.

Building on the legacy of beautiful science and leadership in skin health, Environ’s new Body EssentiA Contouring Cream is a revolutionary innovation to help visibly smooth, firm, tighten and reshape the appearance of skin with powerful 3D contouring effects. The contouring cream assists to visibly improve the appearance of dimpled, unevenly textured and lax skin, targeting areas such as the jawline, upper arms, abdomen, buttocks, thighs and knees. The cream is formulated with a powerful tri-complex of specialised ingredients, which include Intenslim, Phytosonic, Vexyl SP and vitamins C, E and pro-vitamin B5.

New from Biomedical Emporium, the Diamond Hyaluron Filler is a low molecular weight serum that plumps and hydrates the skin. Just one gram of one of the active ingredients in the Diamond Hyaluron Filler can evidently hold up to six litres of water, and research has indicated that it can assist to protect skin against environmental aggressors like pollutants. This serum is said to profoundly balance skin moisture and is suitable for all skin types.

Deep reddish gold in colour, Sh’Zen Rosehip A+ is high in vitamins A and C and essential fatty acids to reduce the signs of ageing, particularly that caused by sun damage. With Pomegranate, known as the fruit of life, and golden Apricot Oil, Rosehip A+ repairs dry, dehydrated and mature skin, improves skin hydration and elasticity, and assists skin cell renewal. Floating above these powerful fruit aromas rise the deep floral scents of rose, rosewood and rose geranium. They captivate the senses and lend their multi-layered, harmonising energies and regenerative properties to this artisanal creation.

RDT diMANzi EDP for men is a cool, collected and classy fragrance for the man that goes beyond ordinary style. The fragrance has been created by Di Thompson in the tradition of fine French perfumery using selected essential oils from Grasse, France. The composition of the fragrance comprises zesty citrus top notes of bergamot and lemon. A heart note of Rosemary captures the aromatic, woody and earthy accord while the base of patchouli and vanilla gives the essence a warm, sensual and spicy appeal.

Inspired by the abundant riches that come from the baobab tree, BaoCare is a range of 100% pure and natural skin care serums formulated with baobab oil as the hero ingredient. Baobab oil is a rich amber-gold oil cold-pressed from the small brown seeds found within the fruit pod of the baobab tree. The oil has a unique fatty acid profile with exceptional quantities of omega 6 and 9. There are six variants in the range: BaoCare Radiance; BaoCare Nourish Tissue Oil; BaoCare Soothe; BaoCare Clear; BaoCare Baobab Oil; and BaoCare Baby Oil.

Taahirah’s Brightening Range provides a safe and effective solution to addressing hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration concerns. The range consists of a brightening toner, brightening serum, advanced brightening complex, and brightening overnight mask. Using scientifically proven ingredients to improve skin discolouration, the products regulate melanin production and reduce the appearance of dark marks. This is achieved with key ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, vitamin C, glutathione, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxy acids, while potent antioxidant properties coupled with oligopeptides assist with repairing environmental damage to reduce the signs of premature ageing.

When IntrinsiCurly Me launched its Hold Me Baby Curly Hair Gel in April 2021, it was a love letter to curls in rainy weather; curls walking on the beach; and curls in hot, humid cities. This innovative salon professional gel works in dry and humid climates alike and leaves hair feeling moisturised. The combination of jojoba oil, chia and flaxseed preserves hair’s natural oiliness, while still providing softness. The gel can also help maintain curl formation and minimise frizz in all conditions.

SunSkin’s UV-Derm SPF 50 Tinted Sunscreen offers full spectrum protection against UVA, UVB, high energy visible light (HEV) and InfraRed-A (IRA). The sunscreen is available in seven shades that are formulated with iron oxide to protect against HEV. The formulation is breathable and offers the added benefit of an anti-pollution shield. Vitamin C is included in the sunscreen for its powerful an effective antioxidant, anti-Inflammatory, anti-ageing, collagen stimulating and free radical scavenging properties. The tinted sunscreen is available in seven shades. The luxurious cream-gel is non-greasy, non-sticky and water resistant.

South African brand Playboy has unveiled its Signature Collection of statement EDT fragrances, which have been specially created to last longer. The range includes Bold with its masculine woody blend of bergamot and sandalwood notes; Legend created with an aromatic blend of bergamot and oakmoss and infused with distinctive notes of musk and amberwood; Ambition crafted with fresh citrus top notes of mandarin and bergamot with a base of irresistible musk and vanilla; and Presence with its unique blend combines cardamom and grapefruit top notes with masculine vanilla and cedarwood at the base.

The Classic Pure Exfoliating Wash from optiphi is a multi-targeted two in one skin cleanser that is ideal for sensitive, reactive skin conditions and bearded skins. This cleansing formulation offers both physical and chemical exfoliating properties and contains biodegradable micro-plastic free calming beads, which release D-panthenol (vitamin B5), to improve corneum hydration, reduce trans-epidermal water loss and maintain skin softness and elasticity. Furthermore, malic acid assists with a smoother skin texture, brighter skin and improves pigmentation.

The 100-year-old skin care brand, Innoxa has been relaunched by the Imbalie Beauty Group. The newly formulated product range consists of 22 products ranging from unique cleansers and multi-purpose masks to colour coded serums for specific skin concerns. The new formulations are vegan friendly and contain many natural and sustainably sourced ingredients, while the tube packaging is predominantly made up of sustainably sourced sugar cane.

Kalahari Lifestyle’s Phyto Barrier Shield offers SPF 20 sun protection. This day cream is based on a new generation formulation that promises triple action protection from blue light, UVA and UVB including Infrared-A. The formula is said to form a protective matte shield on the surface of the skin. Various new generation ingredients are incorporated in the product, including organic minerals and botanical lipids to reinforce and protect the skin’s hydro-lipid barrier.

Woolworths Cuticle Oil is formulated with active ingredients from nature that care for the nails and cuticles. This oil contains vitamin E to soften and maintain healthy-looking cuticles. The cuticle oil is part of the Woolworths Food personal care range, which is rooted in natural care and kind to skin and the planet. The inspiration behind the fragrances is foodie orientated to create blissful body and mind revitalisation. The oil does not contain any harsh chemicals, it is vegan and endorsed by the Beauty Without Cruelty Foundation.

The Sh’Zen Hyaluronic Hydrating Hero is a beautiful serum for hands in need of an instant moisture surge. A unique complex of high- and low-molecular weight hyaluronic acids provides full skin hydration to both the surface and deeper layers of the skin, creating a reservoir of moisture that effectively combats extreme moisture loss, no matter how many times you wash or sanitise your hands. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) works synergistically with the skin’s natural rejuvenation processes, while replenishing critical water reserves.

Providing the building blocks to great skin, optiphi’s Elements Baby and Kids range has been specifically formulated to strengthen and support young skin. According to the brand, the skin of babies and young children is 20% to 30% thinner than that of adults and is much less resilient. It also needs specific actives to support, protect and gently nourish it. The range consist of five products: Complete Gentle Wash – a soap-free hair and body wash; Honey Bum Balm; Nurture and Nourish Lotion; Slumber and Soothe Massage Oil; and a SPF 50 Skin Shield Protection product. All the products are vegan friendly.

Forming a protective barrier on the skin, Environ’s RAD Shield Mineral Sunscreen contains new generation zinc oxide and titanium dioxide mineral ingredients which assist in providing a powerful physical block against UVA and UVB. The sunscreen also contains Venuceane, a scientifically advanced, heat-adaptive ingredient to help counteract the damaging effects of infrared radiation. A wide spectrum of antioxidants such as colourless carotenoids and vitamin E have been added to assist in minimising free radical damage triggered by UVA radiation.

Optiphi’s Post-Shave Serum addresses skin hydration through the use of emollients to protect and lubricate skin, leaving it smooth and soft and to minimise razor-related skin problems. Formulated in an easy to spread gel-serum, Post-Shave is designed to deliver moisture. With ingredients such as antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and peptides, the serum promises to limit redness, irritation, excess heat and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation associated with shaving.

Dr.dermal is proud to announce an innovative addition to its supplemental range of products to address uneven skin tone and pigmentation. MelaBright Intensive combines some of the best performing active ingredients into a highly nourishing cream base to address these skin concerns while delivering an unparalleled skin feel. The cream is said to be both nutritive and advanced and is fortified liquorice root extract, alpha-arbutin, resveratrol, and kojic acid dipalmitate. It also contains vitamins A, B, C and E, as well as moisturising organic aloe leaf juice as its base.

Developed to fundamentally shift consumers’ expectations of an eco-friendly product, SereinFormulas Shampoo Bars are made on specialised equipment, hyper-compressed and lather incredibly well when wet, so you can expect to get a lot more out of our bars per gram. Every ingredient in each of the bars is there for a specific value-added purpose. The pH levels of these shampoo bars are balanced to help seal the hair’s cuticles and prevent breakage as well as locking in natural oils. The goal of SereinFormulas Shampoo Bars is to make the eco-friendly transition a natural decision for consumers.

Taahirah Moisture Boost Serum is a deeply penetrating low molecular weight hydra-gel serum that utilises the proven efficacy of sodium hyaluronate and other natural moisturising factors like amino acids, sodium PCA, and glycerine to provide intense and lasting moisture from the very first application. Also formulated with panthenol and the peptide complex Matrixyl 3000, the fast-absorbing oil-free product supports lipid barrier function to help retain moisture and improve skin’s strength and resilience. It also stimulates collagen production for increased firmness with less prominent fine lines and wrinkles.

Nimue Skin Technology has launched a new product range consisting of the Hyaluronic Ultrafiller, Hyaluronic Oil, and Hyaluronic Acid Super Fluid. The range is designed to effectively treat and manage dry and dehydrated skin. Hyaluronic acid is the skin’s natural moisture source, but it unfortunately has a very short life span with its production slows down with age. This range contains new versions of hyaluronic acid with targeted delivery. The hyaluronic ultrafiller serum and the hyaluronic oil can both be included in a home care routine, while the hyaluronic acid super fluid can only be used in salon.

New from SunSkin, the Sanitising Hand & Nail Cream is formulated with an antimicrobial ingredient, benzalkonium chloride to provide prolonged sanitising. This is complemented with natural oils and butters to protect and nourish the skin’s microbiome. Macadamia oil moisturises the skin while coconut oil reduces dryness. Mango butter provides nourishment, shea butter has anti-inflammatory properties and cocoa butter protects the skin’s barrier to hold in moisture.

Ethereal by Beverley Claire sets a new precedent in the fine fragrance industry due to its incorporation of innovative and sustainable packaging technology. Classified as a parfum, it is a striking departure from industry norms entrenched over decades with regard to glass and plastic packaging. Ethereal proudly utilises bag-on-valve technology in recyclable aluminium cans. This technology allows an even and controlled spraying pattern, delivers optimal results at any angle, and doesn’t require propellant in the formulation. It also allows the primary packaging to be re-used up to 10 times.

Cleanse+Shave by optiphi offers improved shaving comfort. Formulated as a viscous foaming gel with a blend of humectants, the product provides a protective anti-friction layer which improves razor glide for a smoother, more comfortable shaving experience and assists in retaining moisture in the beard hair. It has antimicrobial and calming properties thanks to the azelaic acid in the formulation. It also softens the hair helping to release trapped hairs and reduce the incidence of nicks and cuts. Other beneficial actives included in the product are vitamin B5 (D-panthenol), glycolic acid and malic acid.

Environ’s new Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz and Masque are born from extensive scientific research and the constant pursuit of developing best-in-class skincare. The Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz is a lightweight, invisible, breathable shield formulated with a scientifically perfected blend of anti-pollution ingredients and high potency antioxidants. The Focus Care Comfort+ masque is formulated with Japanese charcoal and special botanicals.