CJP presents a natural emollient for hair and skin
Improve bone, skin and heart health with vitamin K
Excipients that drive pharmaceutical excellence
Psychobiotics for mental wellness
Trends shaping SA’s body care market 10 Events
Highlights from ACHEMA 2024
22 Packaging/ Labelling
Rotolabel provides insight into market trends
EyeC enjoys impressive sales at drupa
Bottle Printers expands capabilities to labelling
Safety, sustainability and consumer engagement 28 Pharma Focus/ CAMs & Health Supplements
42 Sun Care
Finding the right sunscreen for dark skin
How to solve crystalline UV filter challenges
Sun smart: the science behind mineral UV filters
Plastics SA launches 2024 Clean-Up and Recycle week campaign 6 News
First concentrated omega oil on the market 36 Personal Care/ Bath, Body & Shower
AECI’s formulation innovation for every generation
Go mild with majoritybiobased ingredients
Brenntag SA launches green surfactants range
50 Association News
Upfront about ingredients
I’m excited to bring you the July edition of Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review, which is our biggest issue yet this year! As we dive into the heart of winter, our focus remains steadfast on bringing you the latest insights and innovations from the world of cosmetics and pharmaceutical manufacturing.
This month, we shine a spotlight on the growing trend towards natural, sustainable, and biodegradable cosmetic ingredients. With consumer preferences shifting towards eco-conscious choices, our feature articles explore ingredients and formulation technologies developed to meet these demands without compromising on quality or efficacy. Turn to page 12 for more. For health supplement brand owners and manufacturers, our pharma focus looks at the science behind the ingredients that power your products. From excipients to active ingredients, we uncover the latest research into molecules that are shaping the future of this dynamic market. Learn more on page 30
This month, our packaging feature is centred on labelling. According to Mintel’s recent Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends Report, consumers are increasingly drawn to minimalist packaging that reflects transparency, quality, and ecoconsciousness. Turn to page 22 to find out from labelling experts how you can bring in these elements into your products’ labels. Lastly, we explore bath, body, and shower ingredients on page 36, looking at formulation technologies that enhance personal care routines. Whether your brand is seeking to promote sustainability, self-care or holistic wellness, our curated selection of what’s hot in the supply chain promises something for every preference and skin type.
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Natural and Organic Ingredients
• Natural & Organic Essential and Carrier oils
Syntegon charts strategic growth with Telstar acquisition
Syntegon is expanding its pharmaceutical processing and packaging business with the acquisition of Azbil Telstar, which, to date, has been part of the Japanese Azbil Corporation – a listed entity on the Tokyo Stock Exchange Prime Market.
Telstar, headquartered in Terrassa (Barcelona), Spain, is a manufacturer and supplier of equipment for the global life and health science industries. With a workforce of approximately 900 employees; production plants in Spain, China, and the UK; as well as engineering, sales, and service offices all over the world, Telstar is a significant addition to Syntegon’s portfolio for liquid pharmaceutical processing. Further growth opportunities are set to arise for Telstar as part of the Syntegon Group. Syntegon and Azbil have signed an agreement to not disclose any financial details. The transaction is subject to regulatory approval.
Telstar has a strong experienced team serving pharma, life sciences, and medtech customers around the world, especially in Southern and Western Europe, the US, and India. Freeze-dryers as well as loading and unloading systems including comprehensive services are the most important portfolio enhancements for Syntegon and ideally complement its leading vial filling and isolator solutions. Freeze-drying, also known as lyophilisation, is a common process step to ensure the long-term stability of drugs, such as antibiotics, vaccines, or biologics. Telstar’s business will benefit from its integration into the Syntegon Group with its complete solutions for pharmaceutical processing and packaging technology.
With the expanded portfolio, Syntegon will be in an even better position to offer pharmaceutical manufacturers and contract manufacturers seamless line solutions from a single source. Moreover, the Syntegon service network will be expanded significantly by the Telstar service engineers, adding geographical coverage, proximity, and application expertise.
“For Telstar, the incorporation into the Syntegon Group represents a great opportunity to ensure stable business development and future growth. We look forward to bringing our knowledge, expertise, and high-value technologies for aseptic manufacturing to the joint portfolio and to becoming part of the Syntegon team, backed by a shared business culture,” says Jordi Puig, CEO of Telstar.
ALPLA joins forces with Re-Purpose
ALPLA is investing €60 million in the construction of a state-of-the-art recycling plant in Ballito, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. Construction of the plant on a 90 000m 2 site is well advanced. From the beginning of 2025, the plant is expected to produce over 35 000t of recycled PET (rPET) annually.
Durban-based Re-Purpose is one of the market leaders in the reverse logistics of post-consumer plastic waste through source-oriented collection programmes. With four material recovery facilities around KwaZulu-Natal, Re-Purpose is developing and empowering local communities and buy-back centres to collect and divert a significant volume of plastic waste. The model is also creating hundreds of jobs and income for previously disadvantaged people.
“The partnership combines the recycling expertise of ALPLA and the innovative reverse logistics of Re-Purpose”
The partnership combines the recycling expertise of ALPLA and the innovative reverse logistics of Re-Purpose. By joining forces, the two companies aim to develop innovative solutions and promote the circular economy. At the same time, a large number of jobs will be created in KwaZulu-Natal, neighbouring provinces and potentially throughout the country.
As part of the collaboration, Re-Purpose will maximise the utilisation of its current baling centres and set up new centres to make it easier for people to collect PET bottles.
Re-Purpose will also assist ALPLA in building a strategic supplier base for PET bottle bales and work with key stakeholders to expand community reach and separation at source programmes. The aim is to contribute to the collection of 5 000t of PET per month. This volume is expected to be required for the full capacity operation of ALPLA’s recycling plant from 2026.
Freeze-dryers as well as loading and unloading systems from Telstar are the most important portfolio enhancements for Syntegon and complement its leading vial filling and isolator solutions (Image: Telstar)
Re-Purpose uses an innovative reverse collection model, creating numerous jobs in the region (Image: Alpla)
New CBD alternative to promote skin health and wellbeing
Designed to combat the harmful effects of urban photopollution and promote skin health, Silybidiol™ is extracted from the fruit of milk thistle using green fractionation. It offers a new, holistic approach to ageing, leveraging the emerging concept of OxInflammation, which is the vicious cycle connecting oxidative stress and inflammation.
In recent years, the perception of skincare and ageing has evolved towards a more positive and resilient approach known as “pre-ageing”. This approach emphasises the importance of self-care, focusing on prevention and overall wellbeing. It recognises the link between positive emotional wellbeing and skin condition, promoting skin health and longevity.
The exposome – the set of extrinsic aggressors to which our skin is exposed – is an important factor challenging skin health and longevity. It encompasses UV radiation and pollution, which disrupt the skin’s delicate OxInflammation balance –which is the interconnection of two key biological pathways. These factors can have a damaging cumulative effect on skin health and emotional balance. Produced by Givaudan Active Beauty, Silybidiol™ binds to cannabinoid
receptors in the skin and activates cellular crosstalk leading to the activation of skin defences and detoxification pathways to effectively maintain OxInflammation balance and promote wellbeing.
Clinically tested versus placebo and CBD, on volunteers exposed to photo-pollution, Silybidiol™ offers:
- A drastic improvement in skin homogeneity (2.7x better than CBD)
- Enhanced skin radiance (1.6x better than CBD)
- An improvement in volunteers’ wellbeing (equivalent to CBD).
“We discovered that Silybidiol™ specifically activates CB2 cannabinoid receptors and delivers the same benefits as the hero CBD molecule. As such, not only does it reduce inflammation, which improves skin tone, but it also stimulates the production of beta-endorphins, feel-good peptides that contribute to overall wellness,” comments Romain Reynaud, Givaudan Active Beauty’s research and development director. “This dual-action mechanism underlines Silybidiol™’s efficacy in promoting healthy, radiant skin while supporting emotional wellbeing.”
Vegan suitable and of 100% natural origin ISO 16128, Silybidiol™ complies with global standards. It unlocks new perspectives to protect and reverse the consequences of the exposome for all consumers of beauty products.
Silybidiol™ is available in South Africa from The Care Co.
Silybidiol concept in a 3D rendering (Image: Givaudan Active Beauty)
Trends shaping South Africa's body care market
The body care market in South Africa is experiencing dynamic shifts driven by evolving consumer preferences and innovative product developments. P&C Review spoke to Rubab Abdoolla, research consultant at Euromonitor International, to gain valuable insights into these trends and their impact on the industry. By Abby Vorster
IHOLISTIC SKINCARE EXPERIENCES
n recent years, the South African body care market has witnessed significant growth, with affordability emerging as the primary driver of consumer choices. According to Abdoolla, consumers are increasingly prioritising tried-andtested products known for their efficacy. Influencers and user reviews play a crucial role in guiding these choices, reflecting a cautious approach towards new products that may not suit their skin types.
In terms of innovations, there's a notable trend towards incorporating locally known ingredients such as marula and shea butter. Products enriched with vitamins E and C are gaining popularity for their moisturising, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties. Moreover, the sensorial experience of beauty products is becoming increasingly important, with scents ranging from berry to oriental notes like oud and musk adding to their appeal.
Premium skincare products often highlight higher concentrations of active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and retinol, emphasising their efficiency and effectiveness.
While petroleum jelly has been a costeffective go-to product for many South Africans to moisturise their dry body skin, Abdoolla says petroleum jelly products have been updated with various scented options or enriched with additional ingredients such as vitamin E, aloe vera or pomegranate.
Did you know?
According to Euromonitor International's Voice of the Consumer: Beauty Survey 2023, 49% respondents in South Africa prefer hydrating body moisturisers when shopping for body moisturisers with functional product claims.
Abdoolla emphasises a growing consumer awareness of holistic skincare, which is extending beyond facial care to encompass body care.
" Brands are prioritising sensory aspects, introducing new scents and formats"
“Guided by social media and influencers, consumers are adopting supplements like collagen that promote overall skin health. There's also a rising demand for natural and organic products, driven by concerns over ingredients and sustainability,” she explains.
The shift towards holistic skincare experiences is reshaping product development strategies. Brands are prioritising sensory aspects, introducing new scents and formats like whipped body creams enriched with botanical extracts. These innovations not only enhance moisturisation but also offer anti-ageing properties and UV protection, catering to diverse skin needs.
although there's a growing trend towards ‘glocalisation’, where multinational brands are adapting their products to meet local preferences by incorporating familiar ingredients or reformulating in line with local consumers’ requirements.
In the mass body care category, an increasing number of brands are being introduced on the market, yet new products launches are slower on the premium side.
“This is primarily because the target market for premium products is smaller due to high price points,” explains Abdoolla. “The price of a mass brand body care product averages at around R70 whereas a premium product is priced at R600. South Africans tend to more willing to splurge on premium facial moisturisers since they prioritise facial care, yet they are not yet ready to ‘invest’ in premium body care products preferring to use mass brands instead.”
Transparency in ingredient sourcing has become essential, with brands focusing on the origin of key ingredients on packaging to build consumer trust.
COMPARISON WITH GLOBAL TRENDS
Compared to global markets, the South African personal care market exhibits distinct characteristics. The market is smaller and dominated by global brands,
Ultimately, the South African body care market is undergoing notable transformations driven by affordability, consumer awareness of holistic skincare, and innovations in product development. As trends continue to evolve, brands are adapting to meet these changing consumer preferences, emphasising efficacy, sensory experiences, and ingredient transparency.
With these insights from Euromonitor International, it's evident that the future of South Africa's body care market lies in continued innovation where consumers’ needs are balanced with emerging global trends in skincare. •
Euromonitor International –www.euromonitor.com
Rubab Abdoolla, research consultant at Euromonitor International
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Process industries trade show ends on a high note
ACHEMA is the world forum for chemical engineering, process engineering and biotechnology. The 2024 trade show enjoyed record numbers in terms of exhibitor and visitor numbers.
At ACHEMA 2024, the world's leading trade show for the process industries, 2 842 exhibitors from 56 nations showcased their newest equipment and innovative process technologies to 106 001 participants from 141 countries. The international trade show is focused on the chemical, pharmaceutical, food processing and related industries and took place at the Frankfurt exhibition grounds from 10 to 14 June.
In terms of exhibition space, the section – Pharmaceutical, Packaging and Storage Techniques – was for the first time the largest at ACHEMA 2024, followed by the Pumps, Compressors, Valves and Fittings section and the section for Instrumentation, Control and Automation Techniques.
The show welcomed 1 042 exhibitors from Germany, 438 exhibitors from China and 250 exhibitors from Italy. This year, the proportion of foreign exhibitors was higher than ever at 63%. In addition to the record participation of exhibitors from China, ACHEMA 2024 recorded the highest exhibitor participation from India to date, with 185 exhibitors.
" This trade show is the place to be for the pharmaceutical industry "
BUZZING HALLS WITH AN EXCITING ATMOSPHERE
The products and technologies were met with great interest from attendees. The halls were very busy and at times it was challenging to navigate the aisles due to all the visitors.
“The exhibitors we spoke to and ourselves are satisfied; in some cases, there was so much going on at the stands that the staff couldn't keep up. Many of the discussions were directly related to projects or investments,” confirms Jürgen Nowicki, chairman of the ACHEMA committee and CEO of Linde Engineering.
The exhibitors also shared this impression of the show.
Thomas Manzeck, regional sales manager of KSB: "We are delighted to be
here again. ACHEMA is a strong platform for introducing and demonstrating our new topics to customers, such as additive manufacturing with 3D printing and 3D scanning. ACHEMA is a great platform for trade visitors.”
Frank Börner, managing director of GEA Wiegand, adds: “ACHEMA is important to GEA to present our innovations on the way to Net Zero and to encourage dialogue with customers, suppliers and competitors, from which we all benefit. Nowhere else is this as concentrated as at ACHEMA.”
“We are back at our favourite exhibition for the IMA Pharma Group. We have plenty of very skilled customers visiting us and we are tackling the new requirements from the industry regarding digital. While we are exhibiting our new machines at ACHEMA 2024 we are already starting to think about the next ACHEMA, because this trade show is the place to be for the pharmaceutical industry,” says Thomas Fricke, commercial director pharma, IMA Group.
The six innovation themes of ACHEMA 2024 – process, pharma, green, lab, digital and hydrogen – were also met with great interest. The themes focus on key challenges of the process industry and present concrete business cases to help solve them, particularly at the innovation stages. The innovation themes are
Did you know?
The next ACHEMA will take place in Frankfurt from 14 to 18 June 2027. Process Innovation Asia Pacific – Powered by ACHEMA will take place for the first time in Singapore from 19 to 21 November 2024 and AchemAsia will be held in Shanghai from 14 to 16 October 2025.
inclusive of the industries represented at ACHEMA and were developed together with partners from industry, SMEs, associations and institutions.
ATTENDEES ENJOY
SUCCESSFUL CONGRESS
There were 106 001 participants from 141 countries at this year’s trade show.
“ACHEMA is more than a place to find new customers, it is a nice platform to communicate and to develop new products to face the challenges of the future. The trade show acts as a hub for international visitors. If you are working in the lab branch and looking for international visitors, ACHEMA is the place to be,” says Ulrike Gerecke, business development manager, SmartLab Solutions.
" There were 106 001 participants from 141 countries at this year’s trade show"
The ACHEMA Congress covered the entire spectrum of chemical process technology and biotechnology. The sessions provided insights into current research and development projects and the latest scientific results. On each day of the trade show, there was a highlight session, such as:
• Pharma Innovation: Next generation pharma manufacturing – current advances in cell and gene therapy.
• Hydrogen Innovation: Hyperscaling hydrogen – turning strategy into reality.
• Digital Innovation: Artificial intelligence and autonomous systems in the process industry.
• Green Innovation: Beyond fossil fuels – exploring alternative carbon sources for a sustainable chemical industry.
• Process Innovation: Nature as a role model – maximum resource efficiency in the chemical industry. Attendees were most interested in the presentations on hydrogen as well as lectures on electrification and flexibilisation. In addition, the lectures on pharma and life sciences as well as on digitalisation (e.g. AI, MTP, APL) were among the best attended.
Overall, the high calibre and broad range of topics on the programme, with over 900 lectures, discussion panels and workshops, were very well received.
“With more than 30 000 people, the attendance figures are higher than ever. The programme of the six Innovation Stages played a major part in this,” says Dr Andreas Förster, executive director of DECHEMA.
Dr Björn Mathes, CEO of DECHEMA Ausstellungs, adds: “The exhibition and congress once again showcased the technological future of our industry and set an outstanding tone for a more sustainable and competitive process industry.” •
ACHEMA – www.achema.de/en
Good choices against bad odour
Everyone deserves to feel comfortable in their own skin. In support of this need, Evonik Personal Care presents natural solutions for sustainable and effective deodorant.
Body odour can be uncomfortable, embarrassing, and affects one's self-confidence. To avoid this, consumers demand deodorants that provide immediate odour prevention with long-lasting efficacy, and that do not stain clothing and are gentle on skin.
More recently, more and more consumers want products that respect their skin microbiome. The challenge for formulators is to target body odour in the most effective, yet gentle and natural way.
There are several trends driving the deodorant category. Keeping these in mind, brand owners can help consumers achieve a feeling of comfort while protecting their bodies from bad odour.
TRENDS AND EXTERNAL FACTORS
DRIVING THE DEO MARKET
Overall deodorant consumption is driven by several factors. One general trend is physically active lifestyles with frequent exercise leading to more sweat. Another one is increased hygiene awareness, resulting in higher deodorant usage.
The natural and skin-first trend is also influencing preferences, driving eco-conscious choices, and making consumers more cautious of using products formulated with traditional ingredients due to sensitive skin and health concerns.
External factors such as climate change, which brings more heat and
humidity, and increased awareness of topical bacteria and the skin microbiome are also influencing attitudes toward deodorant use.
NATURAL DEO SOLUTIONS THAT WORK
Odour prevention has always been a consumer demand. Several choices are well-established on the market, though most of them are not what today’s educated consumer considers a ‘natural solution’. Fortunately, there are natural solutions available to replace traditional options. dermosoft® decalact deo MB (INCI: Sodium Caproyl/ Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Citrate; Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil) is one option available to formulators. This anti-microbial is a natural deodorant active blend with immediate activity. Its mechanism of action is selective against odour-causing bacteria, favourably modulating the skin's microbiome.
The product is liquid and easy to handle, while its synergistic composition is highly effective against microorganisms causing body odour. In vitro tests have shown that dermosoft® decalact deo MB reduces Corynebacterium xerosis as effectively as the selected market benchmark. An in vivo microbiome modulation analysis has proven that this antimicrobial positively balances the composition of the axillary microbiome. The bacterial ratio shifts away from malodour causing
corynebacteria towards Staphylococcus spp. , which is less associated with underarm body odour.
"The challenge for formulators is to target body odour in the most effective, yet gentle and natural way"
Another natural deodorant active is TEGODEO® A30 eco (INCI: Propylene Glycol; Zinc Ricinoleate; Aqua; Arginine; Citric Acid), which has a completely different mechanism of action. It is a natural odour absorber blend specifically designed for clear, aqueous, and hydro-alcoholic deodorant products. Its immediate body odour absorption efficacy is proven over 24 hours. The product does not interfere with natural perspiration and the microbiome. Its proven odour absorption is highly effective beyond underarms, – extending to other body-related and external odours, like kitchen smells or cigarette smoke.
FROM INGREDIENTS TO MARKET READY FORMULATIONS
Evonik Personal Care harnessed its formulation expertise to combine the aforementioned technologies in the shake-up deo roll-on featured in table 1. This two-phase, water-based deodorant
Table 1: Shake-up deo
A symbio®solv clear plus MB Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside; Aqua; Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate; Glyceryl Caprylate; Citric Acid; Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate; Sodium Surfactin
dermosoft® decalact deo MB Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Citrate; Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil
C TEGO® Natural Citrus Citrus Reticulata (tangerine) Peel Extract
E TEGO® Feel C 10 Cellulose
ImerCare 04K Kaolin
roll-on provides a dry, non-sticky skin feel. It should be shaken before use to disperse the powder.
TEGO® Feel C 10 (INCI: Cellulose) was used in the formulation to support a positive user experience. This sensory
additive acts as a sweat absorber to help consumers stay dry and comfortable. The 100% natural cellulose fibre is sourced from sustainable European forestry and can be used as an ecofriendly alternative to microplastics in leave-on applications. To emphasise the mildness of this formulation, it is designed without alcohol.
As consumers shift toward natural and sustainable products, there are many opportunities to meet their needs with effective, gentle and natural solutions.
Are you ready to embark on a journey toward freshness with Evonik’s deodorant solutions, where a good choice against bad odour isn't just a promise but more a revolution in personal care? Contact the local team to learn more about Evonik’s deodorant solutions and its new Ecohance® programme. More information is also available online on its digital customer tool, intoBeauty®. •
Evonik Personal Care –personal-care.evonik.com/en
ECOHANCE® PROGRAM
roll-on
Discover the power of 6 to restore sensitive skin
The number of people suffering from sensitive skin is increasing. Sensitive skin cosmetics that claim low irritation and skin barrier repair have become essential products for these consumers. By
Catheleen Anne Ysulat, Harumi Suzuki, Shodai Ushijima and Satoshi Yoshimoto of Nikko Chemicals
According to The prevalence of sensitive skin, 60% to 70% of women and 50% to 60% of men report having some degree of sensitive skin. These surveys were conducted in 20 different countries in five continents.1
Furthermore, in recent years, harsh skin care routines have spread among Gen Z and Millennials, and many consumers’ skin has become thinner with weakened barrier function due to the side effects of peeling and from retinol.
It's not only patients with atopic dermatitis, but also people with originally healthy skin conditions who are starting to suffer from sensitive skin.
The growing demand for truth-based and scientific evidence is pushing the rise of clinically proven ingredients. The lysophosphatidic acid introduced in this article as NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL is rooted in long-term scientific studies and addresses a wide range of skin barrier disorders to recover sensitive skin. We named the skin benefits from NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL ‘the power of 6’.
OPTIMISED FOR COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
One way to improve the skin barrier is to increase the barrier component derived from keratinocytes, which can help retain moisture. We are particularly interested in lysophosphatidic acid, which is a type of lecithin, because the human body uses lysophosphatidic acid as a support system for the skin barrier. It has long been known that lysophosphatidic acid regulates the fate of keratinocytes (e.g.
"The human body uses lysophosphatidic acid as a support system for the skin barrier"
differentiation, migration, proliferation), and contributes to the construction of the skin barrier. Literature on this skin-wound healing activity has been published since the 1990s. This inspired us to develop a lysolecithin containing lysophosphatidic acid as an active substance, using whole-cell enzyme technology.
NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL is made from the development of whole-cell enzyme technology, which allows bacteria to produce highly targeted enzymes without genetic modification. This technology can greatly improve the production process, using the culture solution itself or its solid content as a biocatalyst for reactions, without isolating and purifying the enzyme.2 The process uses soybean, a plant-derived material, which is not genetically modified. Both the bacteria and soybeans are non-GMO. The whole-cell enzyme technology also upcycles lecithin derived from a by-product of soybean oil production and turns it into a high percentage of bioactive lysophosphatidic acid.
HELPING PRODUCE A HEALTHY SKIN BARRIER
The key functions of the skin barrier are protection and moisture retention. When the barrier function becomes weak, skin’s ability to limit foreign materials is diminished, resulting in irritation. Skin barrier dysfunction often surfaces with problems like sensitive and dry skin.
There are several ways to produce a healthy skin barrier. One is to supply components to the skin that will hold onto water. Filaggrin, which degrades into amino acids (NMF) in the stratum corneum, retains moisture and passively increases skin moisture.3 Another way to hydrate skin is by creating a barrier, which prevents moisture from escaping. This involves the use of ceramides, which make up almost 55% of intercellular lipids that hold the corneocytes together at the stratum corneum.
To investigate the effects of NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL on the stratum corneum components, a full 3D skin model was used. Pro-filaggrin, which was detected using dot blot, was increased 4.8 times after one week of treatment of NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL in comparison to the control. Another stratum corneum component, which correlates well with skin moisture and TEWL, is ceramides. After treating a 3D skin model with NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL, total ceramides (detected using LC-MS), increased significantly by 1.4 times compared to the control. Occludins form part of the tight junction barrier. They form an impenetrable wall located between the cells so that no water or foreign materials can pass.2
Cell proliferation, cell migration, and resistance to stress are also important factors. It is reported that lysophosphatidic acid promotes wound healing. A good method to
Did you know?
On Instagram, there are 1.77 million posts about #sensitiveskin and 540 000 posts about #skinbarrierrepair. In TikTok videos, #sensitiveskin has been tagged over 122 000 times (as of February 2024).
study wound healing is to analyse the migration of confluent cells in a scratch assay. A silicon chamber was used to create artificial scratches that are uniform in size. In this experiment, each scratch was made by the removal of the silicon sheet, and afterwards the cells on one of the scratches were treated with NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL for 24 hours while the cells on the control were left untreated. Both samples were then treated with Calcein to visualise the results in a fluorescent microscope. In the resulting figure, the thick black area is the scratch, and the blue area is the keratinocytes.
In the results, it was shown that the NIKKOL LECINOL® MFLtreated scratch had better closing capability compared to the control. The cells in the leading edge of the scratch migrated towards the centre. In the NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL-treated scratch, there were more cells migrating towards the centre. This is important in a wound because the faster the cells can get to the wound site, the quicker it will heal. Therefore, NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL was found to promote the migration of the cells in a scratch assay.
RESOLVING SENSITIVE SKIN SYMPTOMS
A clinical study was conducted on subjects with sensitive skin (LAST positive subjects) to investigate the changes in skin physiological indicators before and after the continuous use of NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL. A milky emulsion formulation was used for the study, which was done on 13 female subjects, ages 37 to 50. The subjects applied 0.1% NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL to half of the face and a placebo cream to the other half. They applied the test samples twice a day (in the morning and evening), for four weeks. The following skin parameters were analysed:
• lactic acid sting test reaction as sensitive skin characteristic (LAST score)
• redness
• water content
• TEWL
• pore size
• skin roughness.
RESOLVING SENSITIVE SKIN’S HYPER-REACTIVITY
Sensitive skin has hyper reactivity to various stimuli like cosmetics or temperature.4 Although the pathophysiology of sensitive skin is not entirely understood, it can be related to damage to skin barrier function.5
A lactic acid stinging test is the classic method of identifying sensitive skin. When a dysfunctional skin barrier is restored, the degree of stinging felt from lactic acid also decreases with the level of repair. In our study, the score of the lactic acid sting in the nasolabial groove was significantly improved from 4.0 (score at median value) to 2.0 at week four after using NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL.
The difference in value of the lactic acid sting score in the NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL-treated test area was significantly lower compared to the placebo. This shows that, from the personal feeling of the subject, NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL alleviates the tingling sensation caused by lactic acid after four weeks of use.
A SOLUTION TO REDUCE REDNESS
Objectively, skin sensitisation can also be evaluated by measuring skin’s redness using Mexameter. Skin redness is a condition that arises from irritation or an inflammatory reaction, resulting in vascular dilation that makes the face appear red.6
This response is attributed to an increase in skin’s permeability due to a dysfunctional skin barrier.7 Similar to the degree of LAST response, the barrier’s level of repair is mirrored by the amount of the redness alleviated. The erythema index of the skin was significantly decreased at week four after using NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL, compared to the initial measurement. In comparison to the placebo, the erythema index in NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL-treated skin was also significantly lower.
A ROUTE TO HEALTHY SKIN
A reduction in sensitive skin symptoms correlates well with the improvement in major skin parameters such as hydration, water loss, pore size and roughness.
• Improves hydration: it was found that the moisture content of the stratum corneum increased from 32.4 to 35.4 after four weeks of continuous placebo use. After four weeks of using NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL, the Corneometer reading of 32.7 increased to 48.6. This is a significant increase of 1.5 times, compared to the initial measurements done on skin. This also highlighted that skin moisture by NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL was significantly higher compared to the placebo. In literature, a Corneometer reading of less than 30 indicates very dry skin, less than 40 as dry skin, and more than 40 as normal or hydrated skin.8 In the clinical study, the average Corneometer reading of the volunteers reveals that their skin is on the dry side. From in vitro tests, NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL was shown to increase moisture-related genes AQP3, FLG, INV, SPT, OCLN (data not shown) and skin barrier components. In human trials, this combined effect meant 0.1% NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL significantly increased total skin moisture.
• Restores the barrier: Trans-epidermal water loss has long been a measure of skin barrier integrity. It measures the amount of water that escapes per area of the skin. In the clinical test, the TEWL of the cheek detected by Tewameter decreased significantly from 19.5g/m²/h to 15.5g/m²/h after four weeks of using 0.1% NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL, compared to the initial measurements.
Before After four weeks
After four weeks
1 b Figure 1 a
0.1% NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL (subject 12, right cheek)
This shows that NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL can improve the skin barrier while helping the skin retain moisture.
• Shrinks visible pores: the appearance of visible pores depends on the condition of the skin. It has been reported that pore size increases with age on humans, so older skin has more visible pores compared to younger skin. On younger skin, visible pores are correlated mainly with excessive sebum secretion.9 An oily skin, however, is said to occur to compensate for being dehydrated. As for dry skin, it is reported that fluctuations in trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, correlates with pore size.10 The higher the TEWL, the more visible pores were observed. Moisture loss is also a common factor among these skin conditions with visible pores. By improving the barrier, skin moisture can be improved, and in effect, the appearance of visible pores can be resolved.
Figure 1 a and b show images of volunteer 12 after using NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL for four weeks. Using an instrument called Derma TOP, the pores were converted into white spots, which can be easily seen and analysed. In the image, the effect of 0.1% NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL on skin can be visualised compared to the placebo. The treated skin has a smaller pore area after four weeks of continual use. In comparison, there is no visible change in the pore area before and after four weeks of use of the placebo. The pore area on the cheek where NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL was applied decreased significantly from 4.8mm² to 2.9mm² after four weeks of use, in comparison to the initial values. Results showed that NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL decreased the pore area more than the placebo after four weeks of continual use.
• Smooth rough skin: Skin texture is another parameter that correlates with moisture and TEWL. The R2 value of a Visioscan gives a quantifiable value to the physiological condition of the surface of living skin.11 R2 refers to the maximum roughness –lowering the R2 value reduces skin’s texture. In the study, the cheek skin texture R2 value decreased significantly from 82.5 to 75.5 at week four, after using NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL.
CONCLUSION
MFL is the abbreviation for multi-functionalised lecithin. By developing whole-cell enzyme technology, NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL was produced as a cosmetic ingredient with high naturality and sustainability.
Placebo milk (subject 12, left cheek)
NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL works in multiple ways to improve the skin barrier. It targets various genes and promotes the protein and lipid production of components relating to the skin barrier function. It can provide multiple skin benefits:
• improve hydration
• restore barrier function
• smooth rough skin
• shrink visible pores
• reduce redness
• resolve signs of sensitive skin.
As a highly useful functional ingredient, NIKKOL LECINOL® MFL exhibits total support for skin barrier formation. This ingredient is available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
REFERENCES:
1. Farage MA. The Prevalence of Sensitive Skin. Front Med (Lausanne). 2019;6:98.
2. Lin B, Tao Y. Whole-cell biocatalysts by design. Microbial Cell Factories . 2017;16(1).
3. Lefèvre-Utile A, Braun C, Haftek M, Aubin F. Five Functional Aspects of the Epidermal Barrier. International Journal of Molecular Sciences . 2021; 22(21):11676.
4. Dzwigałowska A, Sołyga‐Żurek A, Dębowska RM, Eris I. Preliminary study in the evaluation of anti‐aging cosmetic treatment using two complementary methods for assessing skin surface. Skin Research and Technology. 2013;19(2):155-161.
5. Muizzuddin N, Marenus KD, Maes DH. Factors defining sensitive skin and its treatment. American Journal of Contact Dermatitis . 1998;9(3):170-175.
6. Lyu J, Diao Q, Wang S, Yu Y, Jiang Y. Study on screening and evaluation methods of cosmetics for people with facial sensitive skin. Medicine. 2022;101(31).
7. Zhang Y, Jin Y, Humbert P, et al. An herbal cream reduces erythema of sensitive skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021; 20: 792–797.
8. Kim SH, Kim JH, Lee SJ, Jung MS, Jeong DH, Lee KH. Minimally invasive skin sampling and transcriptome analysis using microneedles for skin type biomarker research. Skin Res Technol 2022; 28: 322–335.
9. Roh M, Han M, Kim D, Chung K. Sebum output as a factor contributing to the size of facial pores. Br J Dermatol. 2006 Nov;155(5):890-4.
10. Miyamoto, K.; Munakata, Y.; Yan, X.; Tsuji, G.; Furue, M. Enhanced Fluctuations in Facial Pore Size, Redness, and TEWL Caused by Mask Usage Are Normalized by the Application of a Moisturizer. J. Clin. Med. 2022, 11, 2121.
11. Egawa, M. et al. (2002) ‘Effect of exposure of human skin to a dry environment’, Skin Research and Technology, 8(4), pp. 212–218.
Before
Cheek visual
Visible pores
Visible pores
Figure
A novel solution for atopic-prone skin
To address skin sensitivity, Solabia Group promotes the perspective that skin is a living ecosystem, which should be nurtured and taken care of rather than altered. It recently introduced SERENIBIOME®, an active ingredient that accentuates its commitment to holistic skincare.
Skin sensitivity is a major concern propagating the skincare market.
Skin sensitivity as a category is expected to be worth $835.2 million by 2030 – in 2023 it was valued at $405.6 million. This growth is closely linked to the fact that 71% of individuals worldwide suffer from skin sensitivity, with 40% of the 71% having moderate to severely sensitive skin.
" 71% of individuals worldwide suffer from skin sensitivity"
Sensitive skin is mostly caused by over washing, using potentially irritating products, lifestyle, environment, and climate change. Notably, individuals who identify with moderate to severely sensitive skin often suffer from atopic dermatitis later in life. As such, cases of atopic dermatitis are expected to increase continuously over the years.
INSPIRED BY THE HOLOBIONT CONCEPT
A double-patented active ingredient inspired by nature, SERENIBIOME ® is designed to rebalance sensitive, atopicprone skin. Obtained through the biofermentation of Pseudomyza flocculosa , it mimics the beneficial properties of this epiphytic fungus to maintain skin’s healthy balance. It also breaks the vicious
itch-scratch cycle effectively, harmonises microbial populations, and calms neurogenic inflammation by selectively inhibiting the growth of Staphylococcus aureus , which is known to play a role in dysbiosis.
Furthermore, SERENIBIOME ® stimulates cannabinoid receptor 2 (CB2), promoting the soothing and regeneration of skin.
STOP THE VICIOUS ITCH-SCRATCH CYCLE
In conditions like atopic dermatitis, sensitivity worsens due to the itch-scratch cycle, which compromises the skin barrier. The issue is further aggravated by skin becoming more susceptible to allergen penetration and opportunistic bacterial colonisation when the neuro-sensory receptors in the skin are stimulated.
Staphylococcus aureus is the predominant bacteria in the dysfunctional microbiome of an atopic dermatitis patient. It causes
THE BIOME-TECH MODE OF ACTION SERENIBIOME®:
1. Balances microbial population through the bio-selective inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus.
2. Calms neurogenic inflammation by reducing the release of IL-8 inflammatory cytokines and ROS, and by synthesising well-being neuro-mediators.
3. Repairs the skin barrier through the expression of CB2 and by enhancing the migration of keratinocytes.
excessive skin irritation and the growth of skin lesions. As skin degeneration escalates, the symptoms of atopic dermatitis worsen, creating a vicious cycle. Thankfully, this can now be addressed with SERENIBIOME ®
BALANCE, CALM AND REPAIR SKIN
Available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals, SERENIBIOME ® calms neurogenic inflammation by reducing the release of IL-8proinflammatory cytokines, induced by Staphylococcus aureus’ stimulation of keratinocytes, and the production of ROS involved in nociception.
The active ingredient soothes the itchy sensation by increasing the production of well-being neuro-mediators that are known to aid in pain management. This is done by increasing the nociceptive threshold, which contributes to overall skin comfort and well-being.
SERENIBIOME ® helps repair compromised skin by boosting the CB2 receptor expression in keratinocytes, known to beat the crossroads of nociception, inflammation, and barrier regeneration. It also accelerates the re-epithelialisation process, enhancing keratinocytes’ migration and inducing barrier regeneration and skin repair.
The active’s efficacy on itch-scratch cycle drivers is confirmed in a clinical study, with study results showing a significant improvement in atopicprone skin conditions. Thanks to its targeted action on Staphylococcus aureus , SERENIBIOME ® rebalances atopic-prone skin, significantly reducing skin dryness, redness, and itching. •
Solabia Group – www.solabia.com/en Vantage Specialty Chemicals –www.vantagegrp.com/ Personal-Care-and-Beauty
A natural emollient for hair and skin
Consumers’ perception of natural, sustainable, and biodegradable ingredients in personal care is evolving, with a growing emphasis on transparency and efficacy. CJP Chemicals offers a wide range of these ingredients to assist manufacturers in creating innovative products that answer to this consumer need.
Asignificant portion of consumers are prioritising natural ingredients in their personal care products. Natural ingredients are also often perceived as being healthier and more environmentally friendly. As this awareness grows, so does the demand for natural and sustainable products.
UNIVERSAL HAIR CONDITIONER
SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is a great example of a natural, sustainable ingredient.
This natural multi-plant-based ester is a pure multifunctional in viscous liquid form. It works in two ways – as a deposition aid in hair care applications to improve wet combing and offers moisturisation and protection for skin and scalp. These benefits are coupled with a pampering caring feel.
In hair cleansing formulas, the squeaky feel after the removal of dirt, sebum and pollutants often reveals damaged open cuticles. SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR eases rinsing and
allows for the deposition of light oils or silicones onto and along the entire hair strand, promoting easy combing and styling with a weightless feel.
IDEAL FOR SKINCARE APPLICATIONS
SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR provides a moisturising feel in skincare formulas, extended by a light film that improves the emollient effect and skin softness. This completes its characteristic caring and pampering sensory profile.
This ester is 100% natural-based according to ISO 16128. It is also vegan and fits in perfectly with the clean beauty movement. SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is readily biodegradable and
NATURAL HAIR AND SKIN CONDITIONER
• SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR boosts naturality and performance in skin, hair and colour care applications.
• Use it to formulate a skin, scalp and hair conditioner with cationic charge (@pH<5.5) and high substantivity.
• It has a positive influence on skin moisturisation.
• SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR acts as a film former and deposition aid for lipophilic caring ingredients.
• It is a natural alternative for synthetic quaternary ammonium compounds.
• It helps to improve wet and dry hair combability.
non-toxic to algae. Based on 100% renewable resources, it is another small step towards a healthier planet and the respectful use of resources, as well as a big step towards helping consumers feel good in their own skin.
SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is suitable for rinse-off and leave-on products in the hair care, scalp care, skin moisturising and colour care categories. Claims aligned to the ingredient’s benefits include ‘effortlessly easy-to-comb hair’ and ‘pampered, well-cared for and moisturised skin’. •
FLEXIBLE PROCESSING BENEFITS
• SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is suitable for hot and cold mixing processes.
• It can be added to the oil phase, or post-emulsification.
• It is suitable for use in o/w, w/o, surfactant, anhydrous and alcohol-based formulas.
Figure 1: Film-forming and binding forces – wet combing
SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR – Universal
Natural Cationic Hair & Skin Conditioner
Boosts naturality & performance in skin, hair and colour care
• Skin, scalp & hair conditioner with cationic charge (@pH<5.5) & high substantivity
• Positive influence on skin moisturization
• Film former & deposition aid for lipophilic caring ingredients
• Natural alternative for synthetic quaternary ammonium compounds
• Improvement of wet and dry hair combability
SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is 100% natural-based according to ISO 16128, vegan and fits perfectly to the clean beauty movement. It is readily biodegradable and non-toxic to algae. Based on 100% renewable sources, it is another small step towards a healthier planet and a respectful use of resources - and a big step towards feeling good in your own skin.
www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Driving economical change in beauty product labelling
In the dynamic world of beauty and personal care, 2024 marks a significant shift towards products that not only enhance personal well-being but also align with global sustainability goals. According to Mintel’s recent Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends Report, consumers are increasingly drawn to minimalist packaging that reflects transparency, quality, and eco-consciousness.
Sophisticated simplicity is one trend that stands out in 2024 as customers demand functional, high-quality products with packaging that reflects brand values, transparently lists ingredients, and prioritises sustainable practices.
In South Africa, there is a notable trend towards more economical beauty products with the demand for high-end cosmetics slowing down. Grant Watson of Rotolabel observes a change in consumer preferences amidst challenging economic climates, highlighting a strategic pivot in product offerings and market strategies.
“When times are tough, consumers may either opt to downgrade their purchases or reduce product usage, posing potential risks to category growth,” he explains.
To drive innovation, the role of the brand manager has become more important than ever, emphasising the need for labels that aren’t only aesthetically pleasing but also environmentally friendly. Labels are also crucial to secure beauty products and combat counterfeiting – a significant concern in the industry.
ADVANCED LABELLING SOLUTIONS FOR BEAUTY PRODUCTS
Rotolabel is committed to excellence and customer satisfaction. The self-adhesive label supplier, based in Cape Town, not only sells labels, but also a holistic package tailored to each customer’s needs. Product identification and creating labels designed for printing are core areas of the business.
“The quality of a label depends on the skill level of a machine operator,” Watson explains, adding that Rotolabel has highly trained machine operators and is best positioned to offer prudent advice and recommendations to customers in the label space.
While Rotolabel’s latest-generation digital presses produce superior quality labels at affordable prices and are especially suitable for lower volumes, its real strength lies in flexo.
“Digital presses might have levelled the playing field, but flexo still possess the artisanal quality needed for bespoke and detailed label printing,” he comments.
The company’s printing resources are complemented by state-of-the-art finishing with hot and cold foiling, silk screen, high-build, varnishing and laminating capabilities.
While elaborative embellishments like foiling in label finishing have been synonymous with premium beauty and cosmetic products for some time, the category is expected to move away from foiling in the future.
" It’s the label that captures consumers’ attention and communicates brand identity"
Rotolabel high-quality self-adhesive labels communicate the Mitchum brand identity on its extensive range of deodorant products
Watson explains this is mainly due to government initiatives to discourage foil in paper labels.
“Rotolabel’s extensive repertoire of label finishing options extends beyond foiling to include embossing and debossing, silk screening and personalisation,” he adds. “This diversity of finishing techniques caters to the varying needs and preferences of the cosmetics industry, allowing for differentiation and customisation in a competitive market landscape.”
With a variety of label substrates that can be tailored to different applications, Rotolabel helps customers ensure their brands are compatible and their products durable enough to be used in diverse environments.
EQUIPPED TO MEET RIGOROUS INDUSTRY STANDARDS
Quality assurance and traceability are also of paramount importance in the cosmetics industry. As a label converter, Rotolabel is
distinguished by its robust infrastructure and steadfast commitment to quality. The company has implemented 100% quality inspection systems to ensure meticulous attention to detail, and its certifications attest to the team’s adherence to rigorous quality control measures, facilitating complete traceability.
“Quality and traceability are crucial requirements, particularly among multinational brands,” says Watson.
The label converter’s project-centric approach effectively meets customers’ diverse needs while its extensive printing capabilities, the expertise of its skilled and experienced account managers and its state-of-the-art infrastructure, enable Rotolabel to consistently deliver premium-quality labels.
Ultimately, the company’s value lies in its ability to serve as a strategic and collaborative partner, which enhances a product’s shelf presence and maximises a brand’s impact. It’s the label that captures consumers’ attention and communicates brand identity, making it a pivotal component of product presentation and marketing strategy. •
Rotolabel – www.rotolabel.co.za
EyeC enjoys impressive sales success at drupa
EyeC took part in drupa 2024, the world's leading trade fair for printing technologies. The Hamburg-based company impressed international trade visitors with its innovative solutions and latest developments.
Over the 11 successful trade fair days, EyeC showcased it new ProofRunner options for AI-based defect classification and the new EyeC Proofiler 1200 DT.
EyeC’s exhibition stand spanned around 100m² and provided the perfect setting for the company to present the diversity of its unique product and service portfolio for automated quality control throughout the entire design and printing process.
TECHNOLOGY DRAWS CROWDS
The presentation of the EyeC ProofRunner Web was a crowd-puller. Installed on the Bobcat S rewinder from French machine supplier DCM, the modern inline inspection system guarantees fast and precise 100% print inspection for labels and flexible packaging with web widths of up to 1 700mm.
New options for the entire EyeC ProofRunner line were presented for the first time, impressively demonstrating the power of AI-
content, relevant defects can be identified more clearly and brought to the operator’s attention.
Another trade show highlight was the presentation of the new EyeC Proofiler 1200 DT. The scanner-based inspection solution with its fresh design sets new standards in the quality control of large-format print samples.
"
The EyeC ProofRunner Web was a crowd-puller "
This is in addition to the technical improvements for optimised speed, handling and ease of maintenance.
The company hosted live demonstrations of the EyeC ProofRunner Carton HighLight inline inspection system using a folding carton gluing machine from Kohmann, and it demoed the EyeC Proofiler Graphic artwork proofreading software. This software enables automatic comparisons of printready files or step-and-repeat files with approved artwork.
EyeC also presented solutions at the VDMA Touchpoint Sustainability stand. These solutions reflect the company’s future-oriented, sustainable and pioneering approach to the resource-saving production of print products.
QUALITY CONTROL REMAINS KEY TO INDUSTRY
“Even after the eight-year break, drupa impressed once again. The show offered us a unique platform for personal exchange with an international trade audience from the print and packaging industry. The overwhelming interest in our innovative solutions and the sustainability thereof – coupled with the promising contract conclusions – have exceeded our expectations.
This successful conclusion to the trade fair not only confirms our leading position in the field of print image inspection, but also emphasises the great importance of quality control in the print and packaging industry,” says Markus Fietkau, EyeC’s sales director.
EyeC is represented by Rotocon in South Africa. •
EyeC’s busy exhibition stand at drupa 2024
The new EyeC Proofiler 1200 DT
printers and converters of shrink sleeves & flexible packaging
Through an innovative and out of the box approach to our clients’ needs, we are not only willing, but also able to provide practical and efficient cost-saving solutions to most printing and packaging challenges. A pioneering narrow web flexographic printer, ISW specializes in, while not confined to, the manufacturing of highly decorative and complex shrink sleeves, self-adhesive and wraparound labels, and various forms of flexible packaging. By working closely with local and international suppliers, and utilising specially developed in-house processes a multitude of innovative finishes including the likes of thermochromic, glow in the dark, domed, holographic and high lustre metallics along with specialised multi-perforation solutions for promotional items are achieved.
With the manufacturing plant consisting of 10-colour and eight-colour MPS EPW560’s and a full complement of the latest offerings in finishing equipment for the conversion and inspection of our products, ISW maintains the highest level of quality and is one of only a handful of narrow web printers capable of producing wide lay flat shrink sleeves, achieving a L/F of 276mm from a printed web width of 575mm. By offering assistance and advice with every step from concept to design, production and application; we are there to ensure our clients achieve their desired vision efficiently, affordably and consistently.
Expanded packaging solutions to shorten the supply chain
Bottle Printers of South Africa has conventionally been known for the obvious – printing and decoration directly on to plastic and glass bottles as well as rigid substrates. The company believes in continual growth within the markets it serves while concentrating on broader development.
Over the last few years, Bottle Printers has expanded in areas of packaging supply where its current customer base experienced supply chain difficulties. These various expansion avenues are bolted-on to the company’s existing knowledge and expertise.
Catering to the cosmetic, personal care, beverage and promotional industries, the additions to Bottle Printers armoury minimise third and fourth party roles in the supply chain, providing a streamlined approach to any customer wishing to launch or expand on their existing offering.
“We believe there is place for everyone in the market, so we do not consider ourselves
an opposition to current suppliers, but more an expanded offering to a growing industry,” explains Richard Irwin of Bottle Printers.
" The business has expanded to supply plastic and glass bottles along with closures, such as pumps and caps "
The business has expanded to supply plastic and glass bottles along with closures, such as pumps and caps etc. This allows for a one-stop shop, giving the customer either an undecorated or decorated bottle based on their needs. Other advancements include an investment into foiling technology as well as CMYK printing directly onto bottles. These capacity enhancements, coupled with continuous development in the background, make growth inevitable at Bottle Printers.
EXPANDING ALONGSIDE
CUSTOMERS’ NEEDS
Labelling is another area of expansion for the business. Paying attention to multiple customers’ suggestions on label supply, Bottle
Printers felt it was time to add this to its offering.
In January the company installed a fully automated labelling machine and recently, it added another more advanced machine to its inventory. At this stage, Bottle Printers is equipped to label onto round bottles of multiple sizes.
“We are growing this new department based on customers’ needs,” Richard explains. “Customers can bring us their labels as well as their own bottles for labelling and we simply offer the application service. We are also able to supply labels – again to minimise the supply chain for our customers making it more convenient. With very low minimum quantities required, while we say we can cater for orders from as little 2 500, we are always open to discussions on any smaller quantities for customers wishing to enter the market – like we’ve done for the past 33 years.”
Labelling has been a strong contender to direct printing (mainly due to cost), so Bottle Printers believes it is only fitting to bring the labelling option to its customers. This ensures the business presents a comprehensive offering to customers and gives them more choice, both with Bottle Printers as well as in the industry. •
Safety, sustainability and consumer engagement
Siyaka has been crafting packaging for personal care, pharma, home care and food and beverage markets for over 24 years. From wrap-arounds to pressure sensitive labels, the company’s portfolio of solutions for labelling is extensive.
Tamper-evident labels from Siyaka can be used to address counterfeiting.
RFID technology provides a means to trace products throughout the supply chain while gauranteeing authenticity and safety in the market. Tamper-evident labels can also safeguard a brand’s reputation and reaffirm consumer trust by confirming the authenticity of items purchased by consumers. There are numerous tamper-evident solutions available for label applications, including holographic seals and specialised adhesives.
SMART PACKAGING
The introduction of interactive packaging via QR codes has transformed the way consumers experience products by effortlessly linking them
to a brand’s digital environment. Scanning these codes provides consumers with rapid access to various information about the product and the brand, building a stronger relationship with the target market.
Smart packaging can also optimise logistics, reduce waste and aid in improving authentication and traceability.
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING
Sustainability is a part of intentional packaging – not only is it a priority for consumers, but also the entire value chain. It means being more efficient throughout the packaging process and being responsible for creating innovative packaging solutions that are future conscious.
INCLUSIVE PACKAGING
A promising trend of inclusive packaging is gaining hold in the packaging industry, as businesses understand the value of accessibility.
An example is the use of Braille on product labels and packaging to ensure important information is readily available to all consumers. •
Siyaka – www.siyaka.net
Siyaka invests in its people to add value to your business
A vital nutrient for bone, skin and heart health
Vitamin K plays an important biological role in maintaining normal blood coagulation, bone mineralisation, soft tissue physiology and neurological development. It is an essential fat-soluble vitamin that forms part of the menaquinone family.
Two vitamin K2 homologues, menaquinone-4 (MK-4) and menaquinone-7 (MK-7), find application in the food industry and are used in nutritional supplements to support bone and cardiovascular health. Menaquinone-7 (MK-7) is an enhanced bioactive form of vitamin K2.
CARDIOVASCULAR AND RENAL HEALTH
In blood vessels, vitamin K2-7 activates the matrix GLA- protein that binds calcium in RBC and transports it back into the blood stream. Vitamin K2-7 lowers the risk of atherosclerosis, thrombosis, heart attacks, lung embolisms and strokes. In addition, vitamin K2 supplementation in dialysis patients has been shown to decrease calcium deposition in the blood vessel, which is a major risk factor in advanced kidney disease.
teeth caused by high levels of calcium in human saliva.
NOURISHMENT FOR THE SKIN
Recent discoveries show that vitamin K2 can play a role in the treatment and prevention of wrinkles, varicose veins, etc. Vitamin K2 is essential for the activation of matrix proteins that inhibit calcium from being deposited in elastin fibres and keep these fibres from hardening and causing wrinkles. Adequate vitamin K2 in our diet prevents the calcification of skin’s elastin. This is the protein that gives skin the ability to spring back, smoothing out lines and wrinkles.
Studies have linked vitamin K to skin elasticity in patients suffering from pseudoxanthoma elasticum, which results in severe wrinkling of the skin on the face and body.
ANXIETY AND DEPRESSION
BONE AND DENTAL HEALTH
Vitamin K2 promotes healthy bone mineral density by carboxylation of osteocalcin, a protein that binds calcium to bones. In adults, vitamin K2 MK-7 is necessary to support healthy bones and retain mobility. It also decreases the risk of fractures and osteoporosis. In children and adolescents, vitamin K2 MK-7 is necessary for bone development and ensures healthy physical growth. Vitamin K2 works with vitamin D to move calcium out of soft tissue and the bloodstream, and into our teeth and bones. It helps prevent calculus from forming on the upper molars and behind the bottom front
The Journal of Alzheimer’s Disease recently published a paper that examined the role of aortic stiffness due to calcification as a contributing factor to dementia and retinal arteriolar health. It might be that the anxiolytic effect of vitamin K2 is at least partly due to its effects on blood glucose, while the antidepressant effect is glucose independent.
PROTECTING AGAINST CANCER
In recent years, studies have shown that vitamin K2 exhibits anticancer activity in various cancer cells, including prostate cancer. A combination treatment of vitamin K2 and established chemotherapeutics may achieve better results, with fewer side effects.
Trials suggest that vitamin K2 may prevent developing hepatocellular carcinoma from viral cirrhosis of liver; vitamin K2 reduces the recurrence of liver cancer and increases survival times. Researchers believe that a substance
"
Vitamin K2 can play a role in the treatment and prevention of wrinkles and varicose veins"
geranyl-geraniol (a by-product of vitamin K2) induces cell death in tumour cells. Vitamin K2 targets the tumour cells for destruction by stimulating oxidative stress without toxicity to healthy tissues.
VITAMIN K2 FORTIFICATION
Food fortification or enrichment is the process of adding micronutrients (essential trace elements and vitamins) to food. In the past, fortification was used to prevent or treat nutrient deficiency or illness. For example, iodine was added to salt to prevent goiter and vitamin D was added to milk to prevent rickets.
Vitamin K2 reduces the rate of common deficiencies and diseases that would otherwise occur without these nutrients. Food fortification is a proven, sustainable, cost-effective and high-impact solution to address micronutrient deficiencies.
Anthem Biosciences produces the two vitamin K2 homologues, which can be sourced in South Africa through Brenntag. •
Calcium for Healthy Bones
• Activation of osteocalcin in osteoblasts.
• Lowers risk of osteomalacia, osteoporosis and bone fractures.
• Promotes healthy bone mineral density.
Healthy Arteries in Blood Vessels
• Lowers risk of stiffening of arterial walls and impairment of functionality and blood flow.
• Lowers risk of thrombosis, heart attacks and lung embolisms.
MK7 Encapsulated Powder and Oil Formula
• High purity - all trans-form • Highly stable • Natural and synthetic forms
• Manufactured at FDA and EU-QP inspected facilities • Complies to USP and EP specification
• Non GMO norms • With DMF and regulatory documentation support Best MK7 form for formulations
PHARMA - VALUE ADDED SOLUTIONS WITH BRENNTAG SOUTH AFRICA
Menaquinone-7 (MK7) is an enhanced bioactive form of vitamin K2. It belongs to a group of fat-soluble vitamin-K family called as Menaquinone. Deficiency of vitamin K2 may lead to Calcium being deposited in the arteries instead of bones, compromising both bone and heart health.
In the dynamic landscape of pharmaceuticals, Nitika Pharmaceutical stands out as a leader in excipient manufacturing, contributing significantly to the industry’s global footprint.
As a premier Indian pharmaceutical company, Nitika exports its highquality products to over 90 countries, leveraging a robust network and distribution channels. The company recently inaugurated India's largest manufacturing plant, specialising in customised excipients and pre-mixes. With a yearly installed capacity of 17 000MT and automated cutting-edge technology, the production facility marks a significant leap in production capabilities. In South Africa, Nitika is represented by CJP Chemicals, making its excipients available nationwide.
CUSTOMER-CENTRIC APPROACH
At the heart of Nitika's success is an unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction. The company focuses on delivering top-notch products at a reasonable cost, supported by timely deliveries and dedicated after-sales support. Nitika's dedicated experts, coupled with a proven track record and sophisticated instruments, underscore the company's commitment to excellence.
SPRAY DRIED
MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE
A flagship product of Nitika, TABCELL Microcrystalline Cellulose (spray dried) USP/
BP/EP is available in various grades (101, 102, 112, and 200). Its key features include excellent flowability, free from black particles, consistent quality (maintained by Nitika MCC 101), superior whiteness index, and outstanding compressibility. These attributes ensure a seamless tablet manufacturing process and a visually appealing final product.
MAGNESIUM STEARATE
Nitika’s TABLUBE Magnesium Stearate USP/ BP/EP, holding the first position in Asia and the second globally to file USDMF for this product, is a vegetable-source excipient with USDMF and RSPO certification.
"The company recently inaugurated India's largest manufacturing plant, specialising in customised excipients and pre-mixes"
Noteworthy features include specific particle size distribution and surface area, high whiteness index (>90%), high batch-to-batch
TABCELL Microcrystalline Cellulose is celebrated for its consistent quality
consistency, and reproducible bulk density. TABLUBE empowers formulators to achieve precision and consistency in their formulations.
SODIUM
STEARYL FUMARATE
As a specialised tablet lubricant, Novalube USP/BP/EP addresses formulation and manufacturing challenges encountered with other lubricants. Its advantages include minimal impact on dissolution and disintegration rates, robustness to overlubrication, high API compatibility, and ease of manufacturing.
These benefits make Novalube an ideal choice for tablet formulation, aligning with Nitika’s commitment to innovation and customer satisfaction.
DIVERSE RANGE
AND REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Nitika Pharmaceutical also offers a range of antacids, actives, and mineral salts, ensuring compliance with pharmacopeial standards. The company provides comprehensive support for regulatory requirements, reflecting its vision of ensuring a ‘happy customer’ through the delivery of top-quality pharmaceutical products.
The company’s journey is marked by innovation, dedication, and a relentless pursuit of excellence. •
TABLUBE empowers
OUR PRODUCTS
NITIKA provides a wide range of high quality pharmaceutical excipients across the spectrum of the pharmaceutical industry worldwide.
NITIKA is one of the largest exporter of excipients to a diverse number of markets in South Asia, Middle East, US.
We have the fully formulated and quality products to assist all pharmaceutical industry in the development of high quality products.
Psychobiotics for mental wellness
More and more consumers are recognising the relationship between gut health and mental wellness. With Probiobrain™, Novonesis is helping people harness the incredible power of the gut-brain axis.
Modern life is complex, hectic, and challenging for most people.
Consumers understand that good mental wellness is essential for their general health and well-being, as it can help improve their quality of life, relationships, work productivity, and overall happiness.
For this reason, mental wellness has become an important area of human health. Novonesis, created when Chr. Hansen and Novozymes joined forces, is dedicated to understanding consumers’ health and wellness needs. The biosolutions expert produces enzymes, functional proteins and microbes to help solve some of humanity’s biggest challenges.
In May 2023, Novozymes OneHealth, part of Novonesis, released a mental wellness insights report, which highlights the gut-brain connection (axis) and how consumers perceive mental wellness. The report also focuses on Probiobrain™, a game-changing psychobiotic proven to meet consumers’ mental wellness needs.
consumers’ health and mental wellness needs.
For brands and manufacturers looking to innovate in this area, understanding the nuances of how consumers perceive health and wellness will become increasingly important as the market matures.
Consumers generally identify mental wellness as the state of psychological and emotional well-being, often linking it to mood and emotions.
Across segments and markets, consumers mention that mental wellness is associated with having positive attitudes and emotions, such as positive thoughts, happiness, optimism, and stress-coping strategies, without being overwhelmed with anxiety or sadness. They also mention the ability to manage emotions and interpersonal relationships in a way that helps them cope with everyday life situations and challenges – without experiencing negative feelings.
MARKET AND CONSUMER AWARENESS
According to Frost & Sullivan, the global probiotic ingredients market for human nutrition is expected to increase from $2 127.2 million in 2020 to $2 927.1 million in 2026, at a CAGR of 5.5%.1
"Mental wellness has become an important area of human health"
Mental wellness is now the number one aspect when people define what health means to them.2 This is not surprising as there is a significant increase in mental wellness conditions worldwide. Coupled with this is the trend towards natural solutions to help support
The research also revealed that consumers adopt different approaches to manage their mental wellness. Dietary supplements are recognised and perceived as a credible part of the solution consumers seek to manage their mental wellness. They are also aware of the benefits of probiotics, which have high acceptance, and there is a growing understanding of the gut-brain axis and the role of probiotics.
FERMENTATION-BASED PSYCHOBIOTIC
Probiobrain™ is Novonesis’ game-changing psychobiotic for mental wellness. It is developed specifically to target the gut-brain axis and has been shown in two positive placebo-controlled clinical trials to help:
• maintain a calm state of mind
• support the ability to cope with everyday stress
• modulate brain function during stressful times.3,4
ProbioBrain™ is produced using microbial fermentation, one of Novonesis’ core competencies. A patented Bifidobacterium
longum strain is fermented in a controlled environment to produce the psychobiotic. Depending on the final format and formulation, the active ingredient is mixed with a bulking agent and added to the final format.
ProbioBrain™ is currently available as a standardised ready-to-mix blend powder formula with microcrystalline cellulose, which is ideal to formulate for capsules. The other alternative is maltodextrin, which is ideal for sachets.
ProbioBrain™ is available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF PROBIOBRAIN™
• It is a natural strain of bacteria that originates from a healthy human.
• It was developed to target the gut-brain axis.
• There is direct evidence showing modulation of brain activity.
• It has a clear and proven mode of action.
• The psychobiotic is researched by internationally renowned experts in neuroscience.
• It has a strong IP position and clinical evidence.
REFERENCES:
1. Global Probiotic Ingredients in Human Nutrition Growth Opportunities, Oct 2021
2. Euromonitor International’s Health and Nutrition Survey (2022): total respondents, n= 20236
3. Allen AP et al. Bifidobacterium longum 1714 as a translational psychobiotic: modulation of stress, electrophysiology and neurocognition in healthy volunteers. Transl Psychiatry. 2016 Nov 1;6(11):e939
4. Wang H et al. Bifidobacterium longum 1714™ Strain Modulates Brain Activity of Healthy Volunteers During Social Stress. Am J Gastroenterol. 2019 Jul;114(7):1152-1162
Novozymes OneHealth –www.novozymesonehealth.com Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za
First concentrated Omega oil on the market
Epax has introduced a full-spectrum oil, offering a unique combination of Omegas 3, 9 and 11, with marked potential for skin health supplements.
Epax Omega 3-9-11 is rich in Omega-3 EPA and DHA – long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids (LC-PUFAs) well known for their benefits in areas like heart and brain health. However, unlike other Omega-3 products, it combines them with the less familiar long-chain monounsaturated fatty acids (LC-MUFAs), Omegas 9 and 11, which are increasingly being recognised for their potential in skin and metabolic health.
As the first concentrated version of an oil with both LC-MUFAs and LC-PUFAs, Epax Omega 3-9-11 is derived from pelagic fish from the North Atlantic. As well as a healthy amount of Omega-3, pelagic fish contain unusually high levels of Omega-9 and Omega-11.
IDEAL FOR NUTRACEUTICALS
The new product is produced using a nextlevel distillation process, Epax EQP+ Tech, which allows the manufacturer to isolate and increase the content of Omegas 3, 9 and 11.
Epax has been a marine ingredient innovator for over 180 years. Since 1838, when the company began producing premium quality cod liver oil, it has transformed the marine ingredients market. Today Epax offers Omega-3 products of unmatched purity and quality, and it is exploring new marine ingredients while helping brand owners and manufacturers meet changing market needs. Did you know?
It offers significant potential in the skin health category. EPA and DHA can reduce UVinduced inflammation, while a pilot study by Epax has indicated that Omega-9 and Omega11-rich cetoleic oils can reduce skin redness.1
Furthermore, there is evidence that the different fatty acids in Epax Omega 3-9-11 may work together to deliver a complementary effect. In pre-clinical studies, metabolic health parameters were improved to a greater extent with a combination of LC-MUFAs and LCPUFAs than with each lipid on
THE PROMISING POTENTIAL OF MARINE LIPIDS
Bjørn Refsum, CEO of Epax, said: “Omega-3 fatty acids – and all the scientific evidence of their benefits – are just the story. As well as developing EPA and DHA of unmatched purity and quality, Epax has been exploring the potential of other marine lipids. Epax Omega 3-9-11 is a full-spectrum
solution that offers the best of both worlds –the familiar, well-proven Omega-3, and the upand-coming Omegas 9 and 11. The potential is huge and there’s much more to discover.”
Epax is supporting further research into the role of LC-MUFAs for skin health –recruitment has begun for a randomised placebo-controlled study in subjects with eczema. Epax is also proud to provide LC-MUFAs for university research into metabolic health. •
Pilkington et al, 2011 2. Yoshinaga et al, 2021
Epax Omega 3-9-11 is produced using a next-level distillation process, Epax EQP+ Tech
BE UNIQUE
INNOVATIVE BEAUTY FOR EVERY GENERATION
AECI Specialty Chemicals understand that every individual is unique, with distinct expectations from their beauty products. Whether you seek ground-breaking innovation, playful products, a new skincare routine, or sustainable solutions, we have something for everyone
Baby Boomers: Defy expectations with formulations designed to retain, preserve and protect skin.
Generation X: Find new routines with caring ingredients that meet the latest hair and skin cycling trends for when you need a fresh approach to update your regime.
Generation Y: Take a moment with low impact formulations for when you’re on the move or short on time.
Generation Z: Care without compromise with ingredients and formulations that put the planet first.
Generation A: Kindness is strength with formulations that give you the power of gentle cleansing.
Formulation innovation for every generation
At AECI Specialty Chemicals and Innospec, we understand that everyone is unique. Each consumer has different expectations from beauty products, whether it is innovation, fun, a new routine or sustainable solutions.
We have segmented our latest innovative formulations from Innospec into five key generations that influence the beauty world today. Six formulations are showcased in this article. There are also more formulations in the range. Please talk to our sales team for more information.
BABY BOOMERS: DEFY EXPECTATIONS
The anti-ageing mini-miracle marine cream (table 1) is designed to help skin feel cool, refreshed and moisturised.
Carefully formulated, the facial cream is enriched with marine extracts and provides an unexpected water-burst like-texture during use. The combination of cyclic-free and PEG-free water-in-silicone emulsifiers Emulsil® 610 (Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone) and Emulsil® 710 (Dimethicone/Polyflycerin-3 Crosspolymer) allows for a large internal water phase, which is released when the cream in rubbed into the skin. Maritech® Reverse is a seaweed extract with proven antiaging properties. Skin feels refreshed, soothed and energised.
GENERATION X: FIND NEW ROUTINES
The unique 5-in-1 body paste (table 2) is designed to cleanse face, body and hair and to condition. This paste also provides great slip for shaving applications, which makes it a perfect go-to product when travelling.
The concentrated blend of sulfatefree surfactants Iselux LQ-CLR-SB (Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate), Pureact I-85EC (Sodium Cocoyl Isthionate) and Empigen BSP (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) provides gentle cleansing. Dimethisil HNH-LV (Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl Dimethicone) and ACTIVSOFT CD (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) provide conditioning and skin lubricity.
GENERATION Y: TAKE A MOMENT
In the ‘pearly there’ hair and body cleanser (table 4), NANSA LSS 38/AV (C14-C16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate) provides a creamy cost-effective foam whilst the inclusion of a low level of Iselux LQCLR-SB (Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate) boosts the speed of foam.
Table 1: Mini-miracle marine cream
Table 2: 5-in-1 body paste
GENERATION Z: CARE WITHOUT COMPROMISE
Formulated with fruit and sparkles, the wobbly wash shower jelly (table 3) can be used in the bath or shower for a fun yet gentle cleansing experience. The jelly crumbles easily into skin making the product easy to use.
Fabulous foam is created with the mild sulfate free surfactants Iselux® CBL (Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine) and Pureact Gluco D (Decyl Glucoside).
The shampoo-in-a-sheet (table 5) is a real revolution in the world of green hair care. Take one shampoo sheet and simply add it to wet hair, and watch the foam unfold.
Enriched with sulfate-free ingredients Luxuriact® (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) and EMPIGEN® 5151(Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate), each sheet provides gentle yet effective cleansing.
The future of cleansing is right here with our brand new shampoo sheets, it’s no wonder this is one of our formulator favourites.
Empigen BS/FA (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) and Empilan EGMS (Glycol Cetearate) provide the luxurious pearly aspect.
ACTIVSOFT C-17 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) and Empigen S18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine) both give conditioning to hair without the need for silicones. Empigen S18 also provides rheology modification and improves the suspension of the Empilan EGMS.
Table 4: ‘Pearly there’ hair and body cleanser
GENERATION A: KINDNESS IS STRENGTH
With the flower power baby cleanser (table 6), you can make bath-time even more fun. One pump generates enough foam, ready to gently cleanse baby’s hair and skin.
A combination of mild sulfate-free surfactants EMPIGEN® CDR 60 (Sodium Cocoamphoacetate), EMPICOL® SDD/O (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) and Pureact Gluco D (Decyl Glucoside) give gentle cleansing, boosted by Natrlquest® E30 (Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate), a biodegradable chelant. •
C Empilan EGMS (Glycol Cetearate)
Empigen S18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine)
CDR
(Sodium Cocoamphoacetate)
I Sodium Chloride
Table 3: Wobbly wash shower jelly
Table 5: Shampoo-in-a-sheet
Table 6: Flower power baby cleanser
Go mild with majority-biobased ingredients
Nouryon’s majority-biobased products not only demonstrate its commitment to environmental responsibility, but also provide formulators with effective and innovative ingredients to meet the growing demand for more natural and milder solutions.
Microbiome health has become a key concern for consumers. They are also increasingly cautious of taking good care of their skin. These trends are driving the demand for milder products designed specifically for sensitive skin.
The claim ‘suitable for sensitive skin’ on product labels is frequently cited as a top indicator of quality by consumers. In the shower products, shampoos and facial cleanser categories, the percentage of global new product launches with the claim ‘suitable for sensitive skin’ increased from 37% in 2019 to 48% in 2023, with facial cleansers being the largest in 2023 at 27%. See figure 1.
NATURAL INGREDIENTS FOR GENTLER SKINCARE
According to Mintel data, more than 70% of consumers believe that natural ingredients are safer and less irritating for sensitive skin.1 Nouryon expects that the demand for natural ingredients will continue to grow and is helping to drive improved product sustainability profiles in the personal care market.
Earlier this year at in-cosmetics Global, Nouryon launched Structure® M3 cosurfactant. This polysaccharide technology marks a significant advancement in providing formulators and cosmetic chemists with an exceptional ingredient that unlocks new possibilities in product development, performance and sustainability.
Structure® M3 co-surfactant is a sulphatefree starch-based secondary surfactant, which reduces the irritation potential of surfactant systems without compromising on cleansing or foaming properties. It has a Renewable Carbon Index of 77% and Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 85. It is readily biodegradable (per OECD 301B2), non-GMO, cold-water processible and compatible with multiple surfactant systems.2
Depending on the surfactant system and the total percent of the surfactant system, including Structure® M3 co-surfactant in a formulation can reduce the irritation potential by 10% to over 50%. Irritation potential is measured using the Zein solubility test.
"Nouryon has invested significant resources in developing its portfolio of readily biodegradable chelating agents"
The relatively larger micelles of Structure® M3 co-surfactant contribute to its high mildness. When the percentage of Structure® M3 co-surfactant is increased in a formulation, the average micelle size will also increase, as shown in figure 2. As the micelle size of 15% SLES3/CAPB3/Structure® M3 co-surfactant increases in a formulation, the mildness of the formulation improves.
CONCENTRATED FORMULATIONS AND REDUCED ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
Chelating agents are another key ingredient in bath, shower and facial cleansing products. They provide hard water management, help to boost the cleansing performance of a formulation and provide extended shelf life for products.
Nouryon has invested significant resources in developing its portfolio of readily biodegradable chelating agents.3 Dissolvine® GL Premium is the next generation biobased chelating agents from Nouryon and is developed using a natural amino acid salt, monosodium L-glutamate (MSG). It has a Renewable Carbon Index of 56%, is readily biodegradable and is produced in Europe.
Figure 1
Due to its production proximity, it has a low product carbon footprint while having the highest activity level on the market with a 55% assay. This is an increase of over 16% compared to the activity level of Nouryon’s existing Dissolvine® GL-47-S chelating agent. The high activity level enables formulators to develop more concentrated solutions, resulting in savings on packaging, transportation costs and energy consumption. It is therefore an excellent solution to use in super concentrated products and refillable solutions. Dissolvine® GL Premium chelating agent can also be used in formulations certified by EU Ecolabel, the Nordic Swan Ecolabel, Ecocert and COSMOS. With a diverse portfolio of majoritybiobased products, Nouryon offers exceptional solutions to empower formulators to develop more sustainable offerings for the personal care market. These solutions are available in South Africa from IMCD. •
REFERENCES:
1. Mintel, US Facial Care 2023
2. OECD 301B = Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development- aligned test that uses respirometry to determine the biodegradability of the material.
Table 1: Specifications of Dissolvine® GL Premium chelating agent
Figure 2
*SLES – Sodium Laureth Sulfate
**CAPB – Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Structure® M3 co-surfactant
The optimal balance of mildness, foaming and cleansing
Structure® M3 co-surfactant is sulphate-free starch-based secondary surfactant that significantly reduces the irritation potential of commonly used surfactant systems. Designed with sustainability in mind, it is available as a waterless, free-flowing powder of high natural content (NOI =85) and is readily biodegradable (per OECD 301B).
Additionally, it is cold-water processable and compatible with both sulfate- and sulfate-free surfactant systems.
Find out more at www.nouryon.com
Your partner in essential solutions for a sustainable future
Exclusive Distributor in South Africa
On Behalf Of:
Green surfactants under the spotlight
Without surfactants it would be impossible to manufacture many personal care products. Surfactants are used for cleansing, foaming, thickening, emulsifying, solubilising, penetration enhancement and antimicrobial effects, and the demand for eco-friendly options is growing.
Sustainability is a key focus in many industries, including cosmetics and personal care. With this is the move to use more natural surfactants, which have a reduced impact on the environment.
In line with changing consumer attitudes and its own focus on sustainability, Brenntag has created its own range of Alkyl Polyglucosides (APGs). These APGs are made from natural fatty acids and glucose derived from renewable plants. Being very mild and readily biodegradable, they are ideal surfactants for modern cosmetic formulations.
The APGs have low surface tension and strong detergency, are highly compatible with electrolytes and other surfactants, and can improve the mildness of formulations when combined with standard surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulphate. They are also versatile and can be used as main surfactants or co-surfactants.
FOUR OPTIONS TO CHOOSE FROM Brenntag CosVivet APGs have solubilising, emulsifying and thickening properties, and create rich and stable foam in rinse off formulations.
There are four options in the range:
1. APG CG46 (INCI: Coco-glucoside) has unique performance in cleansing, emulsifying and thickening, and exhibits excellent detergency, emulsifying, penetrating and surface retention reduction properties. It has also been shown to have a softening effect on skin and hair and improves the combability of hair. As a co-surfactant it reduces the irritation level of sulphate-based surfactant systems. Applications include shampoos, bubble baths, cleansing lotions; shower gels, and hand and facial cleansers.
2. APG CCG (INCI: Caprylyl/capryl glucoside) is a range of liquid surfactants that are easily incorporated into formulations. They have good foaming capabilities, excellent alkaline and electrolyte stability as well as good solubilising properties and are mild and
non-irritating. The APG CCG range also has excellent detergency, wetting, dispersing and surface tension reducing properties. These liquid surfactants can be used in personal care products like body washes, facial cleansers, wet wipes, shampoos, bubble baths and products for sensitive skin.
3. APG DG-RANGE (INCI: Decyl Glucoside) is a range of mild surfactants that provide superior detergency, emulsifying, penetrating and surface tension reduction benefits. They are also ideal as co-surfactants to reduce the irritation potential of formulations. Compared to other saccharoidal surfactants, Decyl Glucoside has superior foaming properties and excellent compatibility with anionic and amphoteric surfactants. Because it emulsifies oils well, it is often used in twoin-one formulations. Applications include shampoos, bubble baths, cleansing lotions and personal hygiene products, as well as two-in-one formulations.
4. APG LG50 (INCI: Lauryl Glucoside) can be used as a primary or co-surfactant. It has unique cleaning, emulsifying and thickening performance and excellent detergency, wetting and dispersing properties. It also shows good compatibility with all other types of surfactants. Lauryl glucoside is a mild alternative to sulphate-based
The Brenntag CosVivet APGs are made from natural fatty acids and glucose. They are: - 100% biologically degradable - free of preservatives - COSMOS-certified - Halaal-certified
surfactants, e.g. in formulations for sensitive skin. On its own, CosVivet APG LG50 is not a good foaming agent – however as a co-surfactant, it can help improve the foaming effect of a formulation. As there is no need to rinse Lauryl Glucoside, it is especially suitable for non-rinse formulations such as hair treatments and hair gel products. Applications include shampoos, hand sanitisers, facial cleansers, shower gels, transparent formulations like clear soaps and mild products for baby care. •
Finding the right sunscreen for dark skin
The sun care market is transforming. With consumers paying more attention to their skin health, there is a clear need for more differentiated personal care products, including sunscreens.
By Dr Myriam Sohn, BASF principal scientist –
scientific liaisons – IP manager sun care
Consumer preferences are manifold –factors like skin sensitivity, application formats, sensorial expectations, purpose, and geographical location of use need to be considered. Skin colour can also be a decisive factor when looking for the right sun care product. For example, dark skin is more prone to develop hyperpigmentation such as dark spots induced by long UVA exposure. From this type of consumer perspective, it makes sense to not only look for a high SPF but to prioritise UVA1-VIS protection in a sunscreen. Formulators are challenged to develop more customised sun care products tailored to the specific needs of
consumers who do not want to settle for the promise of a one-size-fits-all solution.
DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES
The categorisation of individuals into different sun-reactive skin types dates to the 1970s. At the time, Fitzpatrick proposed a working classification system for clinical practice to determine the appropriate UVA dose for UV therapy to treat psoriasis.1
His system is still used today. It encompasses six skin phototypes based on skin colour and on how they react to erythema and tanning after initial sun exposure. The system showed that natural
skin pigmentation and sun reactivity are inversely related. The scale goes from skin phototype I, which corresponds to fairskinned individuals (FSI) who are highly sensitive to sun exposure, burn easily after a brief period of UV exposure and do not tan, to phototype VI, which corresponds with darkskinned individuals (DSI) who rarely burn and tan easily.
The reason for darker skin tones is melanin, a natural pigment produced in melanocyte cells in the skin’s basal layer. The content, composition, transfer, and distribution of melanin-containing melanosomes to keratinocytes differ according to skin colour,
thereby explaining the global diversity in skin tones. 2-4 Melanin pigments provide natural or so-called ‘constitutive’ photoprotection in the UV-range, as they absorb at a maximum around 335nm.5, 6 Melanin exists in two forms:
1. Reddish-yellow pheomelanin, which is predominant in fair skin types and has a weaker capacity for photoprotection 2. Brownish-black eumelanin, which is prevalent in dark skin types and provides greater photoprotection.7
Previous studies reported an erythemal constitutive protection rate of more than 10 times in DSI compared to FSI. 8, 9 Furthermore, DNA damage is observed to be lower and DNA-repairing mechanisms better in DSI. However, the natural photoprotection of dark skin also has its limits.
LIMITATIONS IN NATURAL PHOTOPROTECTION
It has been reported that people with skin types IV to VI may experience severe
sunburn after prolonged sun exposure and are susceptible to DNA damage.10, 11 People with high levels of melanin are particularly affected by hyperpigmentation disorders and melasma, which are mainly attributed to the exposure to UVAI and the blue light (BL) band of the visible (VIS) light spectrum.
Another important factor is that dark-skinned populations tend to use sunscreen less frequently compared to fair-skinned populations as reported by several studies. This is often due to lower awareness and perceived risk of developing skin cancer.12, 13
Photodamage, however, occurs and accumulates in all skin phototypes including DSI, leading to visible effects after a certain point.
FOCUS ON BALANCED PROTECTION
Considering that 90% of UVA reaches the Earth’s surface, it makes sense that UVA1VIS protection should not be neglected in a sun care product. UVA rays not only cause premature skin ageing but also contribute to skin cancer.
In 2006, the European Commission recommended that sunscreen products should have UVA protection of at least one third of their SPF value.14 This led to a major improvement in the performance of sunscreens in the UVA range and ensures that a minimum UVA protection level is provided with a more balanced UV spectrum.
However, a significant amount of UVA – particularly UVAI rays – is still not being blocked by sunscreen products with a UVA protection value that is one third of their
Table 1: Sunscreen for dark-skinned individuals
SPF. Since daily exposure to low UV doses has been shown to contribute to long-term effects, daycare products should prioritise well-balanced UVA protection to an even greater extent.15, 16
TAILORED SUN CARE TO ENCOURAGE
USE
An important lever to encourage the use of sunscreen among DSI is the development of tailored sun protection products for their specific performance needs and sensorial expectation. Therefore, a one-size-fits-allskin-types sunscreen cannot be the solution. Besides the need for a high UVA1VIS protection to protect DSI from hyperpigmentation appearing later in age, another important aspect is that sunscreens should be invisible on dark skin after application to increase user compliance. The first requirement can be achieved by using organic nanoparticulate filters such as Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) and TrisBiphenyl Triazine (TBPT). Due to their particulate nature, they can scatter UV light and reduce the transmission of UVA1 and BL in the visible light spectrum.17 However, these types of UV filters have the drawback of inducing a greyish, ashy finish on dark skin after application, which is aesthetically undesirable. This problem can be solved by adding iron oxide pigments to the formulation to mask the ashiness caused by nanoparticulate filters, improving aesthetical acceptance and subsequent compliance. Nanoparticulate filters may also contribute to direct visible light absorption.18 Therefore, a sunscreen developed for DSI should focus on high UVA-VIS protection, meaning a UVA-PF
to SPF ratio higher than the classical European Commission recommendation of 1/3 to 1/2 or even 2/3. In the current situation, consumers should pay attention to choosing sunscreens or day care products that have at least the UVA logo to guarantee minimum UVA protection related to the SPF value, while waiting for more customised and better UVA protection products.
"UVA1-VIS protection should not be neglected in a sun care product"
Since the natural level of photoprotection against sunburn in DSI is significantly higher than in FSI, a sunscreen with SPF 30 seems reasonable to avoid excessive amounts of unnecessary UV filters.
Table 1 shows a sunscreen formulation specifically designed for the needs of DSI. It contains iron oxide to counteract the greyish look that could arise from the particulate filter Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (TBPT), which is used for its high contribution to UVA1-VIS protection.
MAKING THE BEST CHOICE
It has been shown that using sunscreen is an important additional means of photoprotection, not only for FSI but also for DSI. A universal solution is, however, not the best option and consumers should carefully choose the most suitable sun care product for their specific needs.
Formulators should pay special attention to UVA-VIS protection when working on
formulations for DSI. Organic particulate UV filters are particularly suitable in terms of performance in the BL range. Combining them with iron oxide pigments can help to make the sun care product aesthetically more pleasing by masking the ashy effect they induce on dark skin. Formulations with SPF 30 and optimised UVA1 - BL protection seem reasonable for DSI. •
REFERENCES:
1. Fitzpatrick TB. The validity and practicality of sun reactive skin type I through type VI. Arch Dermatol 1988;124(6):869-71.
2. Alaluf S, Atkins D, Barrett K, Blount M, Carter N, Heath A. Ethnic variation in melanin content and composition in photoexposed and photoprotected human skin. Pigment Cell Res . 2002;15(2):112-8.
3. Montagna W, Prota G, Kenney JA. Black Skin: Structure and Function: Academic Press; 1993.
4. Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin. Photochem Photobiol 2008;84(3):539-49.
5. Ou-Yang H, Stamatas G, Kollias N. Spectral responses of melanin to ultraviolet A irradiation. J Invest Dermatol 2004;122(2):492-6.
6. Kollias N, Sayre RM, Zeise L, Chedekel MR. New trends in photobiology: photoprotection by melanin. J. Photochem. Photobiol. B. 1991;9(2):135-60.
7. Kollias N, Malallah YH, AlAjmi H, Baqer A, Johnson BE, Gonzalez S. Erythema and melanogenesis action spectra in heavily pigmented individuals as compared to fair-skinned Caucasians. Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 1996;12(5):183-8.
9. Kaidbey KH, Agin PP, Sayre RM, Kligman AM. Photoprotection by melanin – comparison of black and caucasian skin. JAAD. 1979;1(3):249-60.
10. Hall HI, Rogers JD. Sun protection behaviors among African Americans. Ethn Dis . 1999;9(1):126-31.
11. Tadokoro T, Kobayashi N, Zmudzka BZ, Ito S, Wakamatsu K, Yamaguchi Y, et al. UV-induced DNA damage and melanin content in human skin differing in racial/ethnic origin. Faseb j. 2003;17(9):1177-9.
12. Buster KJ, You Z, Fouad M, Elmets C. Skin cancer risk perceptions: a comparison across ethnicity, age, education, gender, and income. J Am Acad Dermatol 2012;66(5):771-9.
13. Buchanan Lunsford N, Berktold J, Holman DM, Stein K, Prempeh A, Yerkes A. Skin cancer knowledge, awareness, beliefs, and preventive behaviors among black and hispanic men and women. Prev Med Rep. 2018; 12:203-9.
14. Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto.
15. Marionnet C, Tricaud C, Bernerd F. Exposure to nonextreme solar UV daylight: spectral characterization, effects on skin and photoprotection. Int J Mol Sci. 2014;16(1):68-90.
16. Lejeune F, Christiaens F, Bernerd F. Evaluation of sunscreen products using a reconstructed skin model exposed to simulated daily ultraviolet radiation: relevance of filtration profile and SPF value for daily photoprotection. Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed.. 2008;24(5):249-55.
17. Sohn M, Krus S, Schnyder M, Acker S. Performance, Safety and Sustainability - All in Tris-Biphenyl Triazine. SOFW Journal. 2021.
18. Schalka S, de Paula Corrêa M, Sawada LY, Canale CC, de Andrade TN. A novel method for evaluating sun visible light protection factor and pigmentation protection factor of sunscreens. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2019; 12:605-16.
BASF Personal Care –www.personal-care.basf.com
Solve crystalline UV filter stability challenges
In the sun care category, there is a need for the reliable and stable solubilisation of crystalline UV filters. To meet this need, Symrise has introduced SymSol® ProSun.
Just in time for the South African summer, Symrise has developed SymSol® ProSun, an innovative solution set to address the changing demands in the sun protection market.
" The optimised emollient blend is dedicated to solubilising crystalline UV filters and prevents them from re-crystallisation"
The new emollient blend solubilises crystalline UV filters and helps to stabilise formulations with a reliable sun protection factor (SPF). In addition, it provides an appealing skin feel in sun care and skincare products.
LONG-LASTING QUALITY
Consumers are increasingly demanding products with a higher SPF and better skincare properties.
To meet these extensive requirements, formulators need solubilisers which help to improve the effectiveness of UV filters and enable stable formulations.
SymSol® ProSun provides an innovative solution for these demands. The optimised emollient blend is dedicated to solubilising
crystalline UV filters and prevents them from re-crystallisation. This step in sun care formulation design is important to ensure a product works reliably and for a long time. In addition, the new ingredient imparts a soft and non-sticky skin feeling in sun and skincare products.
INNOVATION FOR MODERN SUNSCREENS
functionals at Symrise. “We have developed an efficient solution that will improve sun protection in various applications.
Our customers receive innovative and effective products from us which enhance the performance of sunscreen formulations and improve the way consumers experience them.”
The new emollient blend can be used in a variety of ways and is suitable for:
• high SPF sunscreens
• children's sunscreen
“SymSol® ProSun offers an innovative solution for modern sunscreen formulations,” says Claudia Teubner, global product manager Symrise – www.symrise.com
• sun protection products with mineral UV filters
• skincare and sun care products such as creams, lotions, oils, sprays and sticks
• makeup and lipsticks. •
SYMSOL® PROSUN’S BENEFITS
• SymSol® ProSun is dedicated to solubilising crystalline UV filters and keeping them solubillised to ensure a long-lasting and stable formulation, as well as a reliable SPF.
• It imparts a pleasant skin feel in sun care and skincare products.
• It can be used as a pigment wetting agent for mineral UV filters in modern sunscreen formulations.
Sun Protection
A DEEPER KNOWLEDGE
Dive into a broad portfolio of ingredients that deliver protection from UVA, UVB, Infrared* and even Visible Light. Efficient solutions that set a new standard in consumer safety and skin care, paired with an advanced formulation expertise for the most enjoyable cosmetic textures.
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ...
*Not available in Europe.
www.symselect.com I
Sun smart: the science behind mineral UV filters
In the ever-evolving world of skincare, and with the growing awareness of the dangers of chemical sunscreens, mineral UV filters are emerging as a game changer, offering a safe and sustainable alternative for sun protection.
The latest consumer trends in sun protection emphasise sustainability, natural ingredients, multifunctionality and higher sun protection, with consumers seeking reef-friendly formulas free from oxybenzone and octinoxate.
These trends are driving the demand for lightweight, non-greasy textures that blend seamlessly into skincare routines. Moreover, suncare products incorporating antioxidants and hydrating ingredients are gaining popularity, providing not just protection from UV rays but also nourishment for the skin.
MINERAL
FILTERS IN DAILY SKINCARE
Inorganic UV filters, also known as mineral filters, stand out for their reliability and safety, offering sun protection by creating a physical barrier on the skin's surface.
Incorporating mineral UV filters into an everyday skincare regime is a straightforward yet pivotal step towards safeguarding the skin. This is done by applying a generous amount of mineral sunscreen to all areas of skin exposed to the sun, be it the face, neck, or hands. For those seeking a bit of colour and coverage, a tinted mineral sunscreen can be a splendid choice, providing a subtle, naturallooking glow whilst keeping skin protected. Consistency is the cornerstone of reaping the full benefits of mineral UV filters, ensuring the skin remains radiant and shielded against the elements daily.
MAKE HEALTHY SKIN A PRIORITY
Prioritising sun care not only preserves skin’s health and appearance but also safeguards against serious health concerns associated with excessive sun exposure, such as the nonmelanoma cancers, basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and the aggressive melanoma cancers originating from melanocytes.
According to the World Health Organization, around two to three million non-melanoma skin cancers and 132 000 melanoma skin cancers occur each year due to excessive sun exposure. What’s more, up to 90% of visible signs of ageing, like wrinkles and age spots, are attributed to UV exposure.
FORMULATION FRIENDLY MINERAL FILTERS
It can be challenging to develop sun care products that meet regional limitations on allowable UV filters, levels and combinations, while at the same time being sustainable and catering for product conscious consumers.
Croda Beauty’s Solaveil™ Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) and Zinc Oxide (ZnO) UV actives are the ideal mineral UV filters for sun care formulations. Also available as powders and dispersions, they are designed to enable formulators to meet diverse consumer needs
and global regulatory requirements. They offer formulation versatility, enhanced stability, transparency, and high SPF benefits.
Zinc oxide, a key player in the sun care category, is not only celebrated for its sunreflective properties but also for its calming effect on the skin. Its anti-inflammatory prowess aids in alleviating irritation and discomfort, making it an ally for those battling conditions such as rosacea or eczema.
Titanium dioxide is renowned for its gentle touch, ensuring that even the most delicate of skins can enjoy the sunshine without fear of adverse reactions.
These filters don’t just prevent the external signs of ageing and damage induced by UV exposure, but also nurture skin's inherent health, preserving its natural balance and well-being.
Contact Croda Beauty for more information and formulation guidance. •
"Prioritising sun care not only preserves skin’s health and appearance but also safeguards against serious health concerns"
Croda Beauty –www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb
2024
Clean-Up and Recycle SA week launched
At the NETWORK for NETWORKS seminar hosted recently by the SAAMBR at uShaka Sea World, Plastics SA and the KwaZulu-Natal Marine Network launched the highly anticipated Clean-Up and Recycle SA 2024 campaign.
This year’s Clean-Up And Recycle SA week will take place from 16 to 21 September and includes several key dates aimed at mobilising communities nationwide:
• Clean-Up and Recycle Week SA –16 to 21 September
• National River Clean-up Day –18 September
• National Recycling Day – 20 September
• National Clean-Up Day – 21 September
• World Clean-Up Day – 21 September
• International Coastal Clean-up –21 September.
AWARDING ENVIRONMENTAL CHAMPIONS
During the seminar, several local environmental champions were honoured with Plastics SA’s prestigious Caroline
Reid Eco-Warrior Award. This award is presented annually to individuals or groups that display an unwavering commitment to protecting our country’s rivers and waterways.
" Several local environmental champions were honoured with Plastics SA’s prestigious Caroline Reid Eco-Warrior Award "
Chris Whyte, a renowned environmentalist and founder of numerous organisations such as USE-IT, Sustainable Tech, Pyrolysis Group SDG Africa, ImagineIF, and Africa Circular Economy, received the special award from Plastics SA. Whyte, a dedicated member and chairman of the National Recycling Forum and the KZN Marine Waste Network, was recognised for his unwavering passion and vision in protecting the environment and promoting a circular economy.
Other distinguished award recipients of the Caroline Reid Award in KZN included the Clean Surf Project, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, Wild Oceans and the Inkwazi Isu River Catchment Project, North Durban Honorary Officers, KZN Beach Clean-up, Cleansing and Solid Waste Services (CSM), the Association for Marine Biological Research
(SAAMBR) and Sustainable Seas Trust (SST). The recipients based in other provinces will receive their awards in weeks to come.
PRESERVING SA’S BEACHES
In an impressive demonstration of community spirit, on 8 June volunteers rallied for a beach clean-up at Umbogintwini Beach in celebration of World Oceans Day. Partnering with Plastics SA, Clean Surf Project, Sapphire Coast Tourism, the Inkwazi Isu River Catchment Project and 300 children from local schools collected 300 bags of litter which amounted to nearly one ton of waste that was presented from reaching the ocean.
During Environment Week, the ‘Save a Fishie’ initiative also made significant strides. Spearheaded by Zoë Prinsloo and her team, the campaign journeyed from the West Coast to Pretoria and Johannesburg to raise awareness about the importance of preserving South Africa’s beautiful beaches. Prinsloo and her team’s efforts will soon extend to Richards Bay before they head back to Cape Town.
Plastics SA, Polyco, Petco, and eWasa are the proud sponsors of this monumental venture and are deeply appreciative of the team’s dedication to environmental protection. •
Plastics SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za
at Umbogintwini
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