Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2018 by New Media B2B

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

June 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 6

www.pharmacos.co.za

Active, functional and speciality ingredients

Ingredients to spruce up your formulations Tablets and capsules market poised for growth

THE MAN MANUAL:

Male grooming NPD made easy

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

June 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 6

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

Maintain skin and joint health with OptiMSM

Esse wins international beauty award

New highlighter peptide from Sederma

Biomass transformed into a

sustainable beauty concept

8 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

10 INGREDIENTS

Innovative products for modern formulations

Vitis flower and strawberry tree actives

A new sustainable beauty concept

How to choose the right silicone

Starches help save water and energy

Introducing organic hemp oil from Symrise

Protea presents natural actives from Bionap

Transparency in beauty is on the rise

Superfruits to energise skin care products

High containment

for extremely potent pharmaceuticals

23 PHARMA FOCUS: TABLETTING & ENCAPSULATION

32 33 MALE GROOMING

Overcome razor burn with Vital ET

Salicylic Acid: a great cleansing ingredient

Modern scents for the gallant man

Sorbet Man stays relevant with new launches

Multifunctional active offers four desirable benefits

Simple taste masking platform from Gattefossé

A closer look at drug-nutrient interactions with DSM

Solutions to avoid tablet sticking and picking

38 MATERIALS HANDLING & LOGISTICS

New tablet press increases MJ Labs’ productivity

Automated storage solutions for efficient warehousing

High precision capsule filling machine from Bosch

Imperial Logistics reveals world class facility upgrades

| Volum June 2018

Be a part of the journey to a circular

ICAN SOUTH AFR

e 44 | Number

cos.co.za www.pharma

44 Industry Talk Unilever’s radical move to address packaging waste

46 Security Features

economy

Protect, track and secure with progressive measures

48 Tubes Substrates for improved visual appeal

49 ASSOCIATION NEWS The latest happenings Unilever leads global FMCGrney jou sustainability

based and New bamboosubstrates transparent es for tub

at Coschem P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

Science lends a helping hand

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Constantin Drapatz, Kim MacCallum

iotechnology in medicine,

and effective way to coat tablets, need

agriculture and food production

advice on how to overcome picking and

has been around for thousands

sticking, or are looking for a GMP approved

of years. In the cosmetics industry,

manufacturer to produce your new line of

the concept is somewhat newer. While the

vitamins, our pharma focus on page 23 has

cosmetics biotech market was originally

everything you need.

dominated by a few big corporations, within

In our male grooming feature on page

the last 10 years or so smaller biotech start

33 we look at where the real opportunities

ups have been springing up all over the

lie to meet the needs of this changing and

world. These start ups have brilliant ideas

multi-faceted category. Interesting reads

– ‘a-ha’ moments – that can be credibly

in this section include simple formulations

projected to solve problems in healthcare

using one multifunctional active ingredient

and cosmetics. Another spinoff, particularly

with many benefits, a proven solution to

for the cosmetics industry, is a greater

overcome razor burn and why brands should

selection of more efficient ingredients

look beyond the overdone woody, citrus

which have become available in much

and spicy fragrances for new, personalised

bigger quantities.

scent blends to engage all male consumers,

Our ingredients feature on page 10 is centred on biotech innovations that continue to pave the way for more

from the hipster and sportsman to The all-important issue of security features for packaging takes centre stage in this

natural actives developed from wood

month’s PACKAGING REVIEW. On page

by-products that were previously burnt or

46, Aarifah Nosarka talks to suppliers and

sent to landfill, a lifting and rejuvenating

industry experts about new solutions on

active produced using the stem cells of a

the market to secure the pharmaceutical

Japanese orchid and an active ingredient

industry supply chain and prevent the rise

from two vine sister cells of the Merlot and

in counterfeit medicines. She also shares an

Cabernet Sauvignon grape varieties.

interesting read on page 44 on Unilever’s

part of the South African pharmaceutical

progressive move to address packaging waste.

and CAMs industries. Anything from a probiotic and simple analgesic to the more

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM

the entrepreneur.

sustainable beauty concepts. These include

Tablets and capsules form a significant

ADVERTISING

General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb

Enjoy the read!

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

complex to manufacture effervescent

Bridget McCarney

tablet has seen an increase in demand. If

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

you’re interested in exploring a new, simple

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

New solutions for

TODAY‘S PRESERVATION CHALLENGES THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALITY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE

Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.

> We prefer to reduce preservatives. Not their effect. <

CLARIANT.COM/PERSONALCARE

NEWS

PRESTIGIOUS ORGANIC BEAUTY AWARD FOR ESSE SKINCARE THE NOURISH MOISTURISER by Esse Skincare was announced the winner of the Best Day Cream category in Sweden’s Organic Beauty Awards. This moisturiser is formulated with beneficial probiotic extracts, which strengthen and moisturise even sensitive skin. The judges described the product as ‘a true moisture bomb that causes the skin to radiate well’. The Organic Beauty Awards is Sweden’s first in sustainable and ecological beauty industry awards.

Improve joint and skin health

METHYLSULFONYLMETHANE

sulphate improved joint pain

(MSM), ALSO known as dimethyl

associated with osteoarthritis,

sulfone (DMSO2) and methyl

compared to both placebo and

sulfone, is an organic sulphur-

glucosamine-chondroitin1.

containing compound essential

The researchers measured

for optimal joint and skin health.

symptoms using visual analog

Without sufficient MSM sulphur,

score (VAS) and Western Ontario

the body cannot maintain an

and McMaster osteoarthritis index

appropriate level of homeostasis.

(WOMAC) pain score, a standard

OptiMSM from Bergstrom Nutrition

questionnaire for scoring knee

has earned the reputation for the

and hip pain, stiffness and

purest, safest and most consistent

function caused by osteoarthritis.

MSM in the world. In joint health,

On its own, MSM has helped manage post-exercise joint

glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are

health. Another research

polysaccharides that combine

publication, also published in

with certain proteins called

2017, reported healthy female

proteoglycans to form hydrated

runners in the 2014 Portland

gels. This is according to an

half-marathon who took MSM

article first published in Natural

(as OptiMSM) 21 days prior to

Products Insider, which states

and two days following the race

these gels support connective

had reduced muscle and joint

tissues to help cushion joints.

pain2. A subsequent study on

GAGs important to joint health

half-marathoners confirmed the

include chondroitin sulphate,

significance of this benefit from

keratin sulphate, heparin sulphate

OptiMSM supplementation and

and hyaluronan.

concluded MSM may be effective

Most GAGs are sulphated. In cartilage extracellular matrix (ECM), GAGs and proteins are connected by disulphide bonds. Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM)

at reducing exercise-induced joint pain3.

the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by supporting the

sulphur to cartilage.

structural integrity of the skin. OptiMSM is available

showed a combination of MSM,

throughout southern Africa from

glucosamine and chondroitin

Brenntag SA.

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

profit organisation, the Natural Organic Cosmetics Association (NOC). This year’s competition celebrated its third anniversary and attracted more than 200 product entries in 14 categories.

Christopher Genberg, the distributor of Esse in Sweden, accepting the award

NOC has about 40 member companies representing about 60 natural and organic cosmetics brands. National and international brands are welcome to become members as long as the brand is available on the Swedish market, like Esse Skincare.

HIGHLIGHTER PEPTIDE CREATES A CRYSTAL-LIKE SKIN SEDERMA HAS ELEVATED the Korean glass skin concept to crystal skin with its highlighter-like peptide, Crystalide. This IECIC approved active ingredient promotes clear, moisturised, translucent and luminous skin. Crystalide is inspired by the highlighter makeup trend as this bio-harmonical peptide exerts a holistic activity in the epidermis for naturally glowing skin. The peptide preserves skin transparency by inducing the chaperone protein α-crystallin while its soft-polish effect reveals a uniform glow. Crystalide has also been demonstrated to exert epigenetic regulation leading to harmonious skin maturation and the improvement of skin’s surface quality. In addition to a full range of in vitro tests, clinical studies have shown Crystalide brings visible results in only six weeks, leaving skin clear, smooth and dewy. This water-soluble ingredient can be incorporated into facial care, makeup, sun, after sun and self-tanning products. Images from a clinical study show the visible results of Crystalide after six weeks

OptiMSM has also been proven for its skin care benefits to reduce

is a not a GAG but can contribute A 2017 research publication

The programme is run by a non-

T6 weeks

July

2018

DIARY 2018

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

RE V IE W

WHAT'S ON IN

SOUTH AFRICAN

Propak China

11 to 13 July SNIEC, China www.propakchina.com/en

Cosmoprof North America

25 to 27 July Las Vegas, USA www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

August

Coschem Sun Care Trends & Regulations Morning Refresher

1 August Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, JHB www.coschem.co.za

Coschem Ladies Day

15 August Avianto, Muldersdrift, Gauteng www.coschem.co.za

2018 SUBSCRIPTION FORM Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468. SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR

2 YEAR

Food Review Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R791

Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

Professional Beauty JHB 2 to 3 September Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand, Gauteng www.probeauty.co.za/jhb.htm

Coschem Scientific Conference: Beauty in HD

12 to 13 September San Francisco, USA www.skinmicrobiomecongressca.com

Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. ) ..................................

Main activity of company:................................................................... Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists. Signature:............................................................................................

Please select your preferred method of payment:

❑

Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Payee:

Bank:

Acc No:

New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

❑

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: ............................................................................. Expiry Date: ................................................................................ Card Number: ............................................................................. CVC Number...............................................................................

18 to 21 September The Dolce Munich, Germany www.ifscc2018.com

26 to 27 September JHB venue TBC www.bit.ly/2GaAUHI

)....................................... Fax: (

E-mail:.................................................................................................

IFSCC 2018 Congress

Africa Home and Personal Care Markets

R791 R1416

Designation: ........................................................................................

5 to 6 September Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand, Gauteng www.coschem.co.za

Skin Microbiome Congress

R514 R931

Full Name:...........................................................................................

Tel: (

September

R514

Date: ........................................................................................... Signature:....................................................................................

❑

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

STREET The go-to for glow!

Triple bond protection

Esse Skincare’s Protect Oil is

SkinCeuticals’ new Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight promises to

a new addition to the brand’s

improves skin’s glow by 36 percent while maintaining

sensitive line. In this product,

tolerability. While many glycolic acid formulas on the

Esse showcases Ximenia oil

market under deliver on acid strength because

– a new oil from Namibia – to

of formula buffering, this night time corrective

protect sensitive skin from

cream delivers a true 10 percent glycolic

environmental damage and

acid to the skin for a quantifiable glow. The

strengthen its barrier

formulation is blended with additional

function for ongoing

brightening and soothing ingredients

support. Making up

that target fine lines, dullness and uneven

about 20 percent of

texture. SkinCeuticals products are

the oil is a fatty acid

available at selected professional skin care

called Ximenynic acid,

salons nationwide.

which contains a rare triple bond in the carbon chain. When exposed

Switch formulas for

to UV light or free radicals, this triple

beautiful skin

bond reacts to form a protective polymer layer on skin. Visit www.

Avon’s ANEW Reversalist Infinite Effects Night

esseskincare.

Treatment Cream is one of the first-ever rotational

com for

night cream systems and promises to improve signs

more info.

of ageing month after month. This revolutionary dual system improves skin continuously through a groundbreaking treatment system. Consisting of two formulas, treatment cream 1 with Phyto+ Complex is applied for seven nights before switching to treatment cream 2 with SuperRetinol Complex for the next seven nights. The rotational technology helps provide ongoing results, by switching back and forth between the two creams.

Colours for Africa Now available in SA Nikel Cosmetics, an established international brand with roots in Croatia, has grabbed the attention of many South Africans, including top bloggers and celebrities. Its unique blend of plant actives and modern cosmetics technology make it a must-have. The range is the brainchild of acclaimed scientist Mirjana Brlečić, who says her products are well suited to the skin care needs of South Africans. For example, the Alpine Rose Stem Cell Tonic is an ideal defence mechanism against the damaging effects of the South African sun. Visit www.nikelcosmetics.co.za for more info.

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

Zaron is a leading global colour cosmetics brand for women of colour. The products are manufactured internationally and distributed from its head office in Ikoyi, Lagos to franchises established in over 30 different locations both in Nigeria and across Africa. Some products from the brand include lengthening mascara, matte lipstick in an extensive range of shades, long wear gel eyeliner, liquid foundation, oil control mineral loose powder, face primer and liquid concealer. Visit www.zaron.com.ng for more info.

Launched a new product in 2017/18?

Entries close 20 June 2018

Contact Natalie Da Silva: natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281

INGREDIENTS

innovation

Savannah Fine Chemicals has built a strong reputation as a reliable supplier. Through its selection of international principals, the company offers class leading active, functional and speciality ingredients at competitive prices. The sunflower is a renewable resource for various industries, including cosmetics

moisturising benefits. One example is Emulsun, from Floratech. This new, low cost, o/w emulsifier derived from sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil offers formulators the flexibility to achieve target viscosity without the use of secondary emulsifiers. Sunflower oil has demonstrated a low irritation potential in personal care and cosmetics products for centuries. The monoglycerides and polyglyceride esters derived from sunflower oil form a synergetic crystalline structure, which can create micro-emulsions without shear mixing. This ingredient is biodegradable, preservative free, easy to handle and supports a greener production process. It also outperforms

DID YOU KNOW?

n line with global trends, Savannah Fine Chemicals supplies bio-based, natural and organic ingredients, as

well as those that are pro-ageing

skin hydration and maintaining barrier function. Emulsun is ideal for

The demand for natural beauty hair treatments and conditioners ingredients shows no sign of slowing and skin care products such as down. To give Mother Nature a helping the hydrating silicone-free day hand, manufacturers of ingredients will cream featured in Table 1. continue to harness biotechnology platforms while brand owners will grow their local sourcing Sugarcane biotechnology models. Source: Mintel Neossance Hemisqualane and

and prioritise skin health. It also offers innovative products for modern formulation

Figure 1: After 56 days of using Orchistem, the eye appears more open and younger

standard o/w emulsifiers by increasing

Squalane products offer sustainable solutions for responsible brands. In fact,

requirements, from cold processable and

the story of Hemisqualane goes beyond

environmentally friendly to PEG-free ingredients.

sustainability to its superior efficacy and

Although not a new trend, polyethylene glycols

functionality. When compared to petroleum-

(or PEGs) have become less than desirable

based materials such as isohexadecane or

ingredients to use in clean label formulations.

fluid silicones, Hemisqualane demonstrates a

This is because they can be contaminated

performance equivalence across a wide variety

with certain impurities. There is a wide variety

of applications. It is also priced comparably

of effective PEG-free alternatives on the market

to these materials, so consumers don’t have

which can be used to stabilise, thicken or

to pay more for choosing a responsible and

soften a formulation or provide additional

environmentally friendly option. Aprinnova produces

Day 0

Day 56

Hemisqualane by fermenting sugarcane. This crop, which is grown sustainably in Brazil without irrigation, represents the highest level of biomass per hectare of all sugar sources in the country. To produce this ingredient, waste streams are converted

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS into electricity to power the Aprinnova

Table 1: Hydrating Silicone-Free Day Cream with L22 and Emulsun7

Ingredients

INCI

% wt./wt

Deionised Water

Aqua

q.s.

Glycerine 99.7% USP Kosher

Glycerin

1.50

cosmetics, skin and hair care

Xanthan Gum

0.20

applications. An independent study

Floramac 10

Ethyl Macadamiate

5.30

Florasun 90

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

3.00

Floraesters 15

Jojoba Esters

1.80 3.50

L22

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters (and) Squalene (and) Phytosteryl Macadamiate (and) Phytosterols (and) Tocopherol

Floraesters 60

Jojoba Esters

1.40 6.50

Emulsun

Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Citric Acid, USP (10% Solution)

Citric Acid (and) Water

Fragrance8

plant and provide electricity to the

Phase

surrounding community. Hemisqualane is ideal for a various

conducted by the Nikkol Group verified the effective makeup remover properties of Hemisqualane when compared to

isohexadecane. In hair care, the ingredient performs in the same way as a fluid silicone. It can be used in conditioners, treatments and styling products to support claims such as easy combing, manageability, colour and heat protection, and silky soft hair.

Orchid stem cells have been proven to enhance and improve intercellular communication in skin for a global rejuvenating effect Squalane, a high value emollient in abundant supply, is the non-animal derived alternative to Squalene. Squalene was originally produced using shark liver oil and later on, olive-based sources, yet its supply was historically unreliable and its price often fluctuated. Aprinnova put an end to these challenges and stabilised the market when it launched Neossance Squalane a few years ago. Like Hemisqualane, Squalane is produced using sugarcane and a biotechnology platform. It contributes to skin therapy in topical formulations while clinical and consumer studies point to Squalane’s multifunctional performance benefits in skin care applications. It is suitable for use across multiple categories, from skin, sun and hair care to colour cosmetics, makeup removal and personal hygiene

Preservative9 Total

Just as communication is essential to human existence, the optimal functioning of skin also depends on good intercellular communication, which is altered with time, and the factors associated with ageing. With Orchistem, decreased communication between adipose derived stem cells and fibroblasts can be recovered to reactivate their ability to provide rejuvenation. In vitro studies unravel how intercellular signalling through growth factors is able to turn the main cellular players of skin tissue into an activated status with increased proliferation and tissue regeneration potential. In vivo studies show impressive results of the active’s ability to reduce jawline volume for a sculpting effect, wrinkle reduction and to provide a lifting effect on the upper eyelid (see Figure 1). The latter gives a refreshed

Improved cell communication

eyes providing a non-invasive alternative

of ingredient innovation in the cosmetics industry. It has paved the way for sustainable practices and provided the necessary alternative to animal derived stem cells. Provital makes extensive use of plant cell culture technology to develop active ingredients. Its newest offering, Orchistem, is derived from stem cells of

100.00

This light weight, hydrating face cream is great for daytime wear under makeup and provides all day moisturisation

applications such as deodorants or antiperspirants.

Plant cell culture technology is also a major driver

q.s.

look with more open younger looking to widely extended blepharoplasty, the plastic surgery procedure for correcting defects, deformities, and disfigurations of the eyelids. Because Orchistem is based on the communication theme, it was fitting for Provital to

Due to its disinfectant and regenerative properties, the Calanthe discolour orchid is used in traditional medicine to treat wounds and infected skin

launch a dedicated Instagram account for the active ingredient (@orchistem_by_provital), which is a first for cosmetics ingredients on the market. •

the Calanthe discolour, an orchid native to Japan. These orchid stem cells have been proven to enhance and improve intercellular communication in skin for a global rejuvenating effect.

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

INGREDIENTS

In harmony

with skin and the environment Naolys, based in France, produces innovative active ingredients developed using plant cell culture technology. This leading biotech company revealed the newest additions to its exclusive line of plant based and botanical actives at in-cosmetics Global in April.

especting consumer health and

To develop this new active ingredient, Naolys

biodiversity, Naolys’ actives contain all

united two vine sister cells from the Merlot and

the richness of the botanical species from

Cabernet Sauvignon grape varieties, to produce the

which they are derived. They are effective,

Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2 active that is proven

safe and focus on environmental preservation. The company’s proprietary technology doesn’t require

to combat skin imperfections. With its healing, complexion enhancing and

field-based culture – because taking only a few

moisturising benefits, Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2

millimetres off the plant is enough to develop cells in

drew great industry interest at in-cosmetics in

abundance – so Naolys conserves biodiversity.

Amsterdam. The active helps reconstruct skin tissue,

Active plant cells, like any botanical product, are

encourages a radiant uniform complexion and

biodegradable. Naolys’ plant cell culture botanical

restores moisture balance, by maintaining water in

actives are available in southern Africa from Enna

the epidermal layers.

Industrial Ingredients (Enna II).

After 28 days of use, a clinical study shows the positive results of applying an emulsion with

Soothe, protect and moisturise

0.5 percent of Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2.

When you pour yourself a glass of wine, you don’t

The active ingredient decreased imperfections by

often think of the health benefits beyond its mood

31 percent and brown posts by 27 percent, resulting

enhancing properties. Two strains of red grape vines,

in a 30 percent increase in skin uniformity.

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, are the varieties that are the richest in polyphenols (tannins and

Detoxify and lighten

anthocyanins), which is why they have many positive

First Light Strawberry tree was also launched by Naolys

skin care benefits.

at in-cosmetics Global. This plant cell culture active ingredient is sourced from a famous shrub strawberrylike shrub found in the Mediterranean basin. According to the company, Mediterranean strawberry tree cells have the ability to gently detoxify and lighten skin. In vitro test results are available on request from Enna II to show how First Light Strawberry tree balances the skin mechanisms effecting its radiance. These results also prove its ability to decrease melanin production, contribute to a more even skin tone and to limits the creation of free radicals. •

The richness of red grape vines holds many positive skin care benefits

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

Arbutus unedo, the strawberry tree, is a small, evergreen shrub native to the Mediterranean region

Enna Industrial Ingredients – www.ennaii.co.za Naolys – www.naolys.com

INGREDIENTS

Biomass transformed into a sustainable

beauty concept

The trees of the boreal forests in Québec, Canada are home to a life force that’s proving highly beneficial to the cosmetics industry. Using biotechnology and biomass from these forests, Bio ForeXtra has developed a series of high quality natural ingredients.

new, high quality, certified natural and

production, collaborating with sawmills that

eco-friendly. These active ingredients are

are FSC certified.

orealine Expert is a unique

available in South Africa from Unicare

extract of red maple bark

Ingredients, the consumer care division

Vital anti-ageing active

developed by Bio ForeXtra.

of Unichem Services.

Borealine Expert is rich in polyphenols.

The company is a Canadian

This rejuvenating powder is a powerful

start-up created in 2013, which

Bioactive bark molecules

antioxidant that has been proven to

develops ecological and natural active

The trees of the boreal forest are known

reduce the appearance of wrinkles and

ingredients by recycling wood by-

for their resistant bark and durability.

alleviate the main causes of skin ageing,

products not previously used for

Bark, essentially the skin of the trees,

this purpose. In Québec, 90 percent of

such as oxidative stress and inflammation.

contains bioactive molecules

It also improves skin’s quality, firmness

that provide protection from

and elasticity.

the territory is covered by

external aggressors, making

forest. The forestry industry

them a great source of

Expert’s ability to inhibit free radicals and

beneficial ingredients for

stimulate the production of collagen, elastin

human skin. These bioactive

and involucrin for improved barrier function.

is the largest contributor to the territory’s economy. However, the industry was disrupted by the 2008/9 economic crisis, driving the need for better utilisation of its resources and the by-products it generates.

DID YOU KNOW?

molecules are key factors

Borealine Expert won a silver award in the Innovation Zone Green Ingredient category at in-cosmetics Global 2018.

Focused on the latter, Bio ForeXtra has created the

In vitro tests have confirmed Borealine

The active is ideal for anti-ageing

of tree survival throughout

treatments; plumping, repairing and anti-

all seasons, as the trees

wrinkle products for mature skins; male

in Northern Canada are

grooming products; cosmeceuticals;

exposed to various extreme

and sun care and after sun products. The

weather conditions.

recommended dosage of Borealine Expert

The natural compounds

in a formulation is 0.1 to 0.25 percent while

synthesised in high concentrations

missing link between the forestry and

in the bark are extracted using an

cosmetics industries by developing and

organic solvent with water. Bio ForeXtra

manufacturing natural extracts obtained

collects the fresh bark of various tree

only from forest biomass. Its extracts are

species from sawmills during lumber

its pH ranges from three to six. •

Bio ForeXtra – www.bioforextra.com Unicare Ingredients – www.unicare.co.za

Exclusive distributors for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics and Southern Cross Botanicals – inspiring and innovative speciality ingredients!

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

INGREDIENTS

Select the perfect silicone for your formulation Silicone chemistry plays an important role in modern personal care and cosmetics products, delivering superior aesthetics and unmatched, cost-effective sensory benefits. By selecting the right silicone for your formulation, experts at BRB Silicones say you can easily meet the most demanding consumer requirements. creams, lotions, sunscreens, bath oils and hair care products. High viscosity dimethicones (60 000 to 100 000 cSt) are commonly used in hair care products. Dimethiconol, also referred to as silicone gum, is a polymer similar to dimethicone where two chain-end methyl groups have been replaced by hydroxyl (-OH) groups. Dimethiconol is widely used in hair cuticle coat formulations (see Table 1), offering a remedy for split-ends.

Silicone surfactants These are synthesised to contain both silicone and water-soluble groups within the same molecule. The result is a series of compounds with varying and controllable levels of solubility in oil, water

and silicone. A common silicone surfactant is olatile silicone fluids consist of cyclic and linear molecules with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt. The term cyclomethicone refers to a series of

cyclic silicone compounds. Cyclomethicone with low heat of vaporisation and low viscosity imparts a transient, non-greasy and non-cooling effect on skin. It helps improve the rub-in and spreadability of creams and lotions. Cyclomethicone can be used alone or blended with other cosmetics fluids to provide a liquid base for a variety of ingredients. It features good solubility in most anhydrous alcohols and in many solvents. Dimethicone is the INCI name for a series of basic linear silicones used as base fluids. These inert polymers are optically clear, odourless and non-flammable. They are often referred to as silicone oil, dimethyl polysiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane, and take viscosities within a broad range from 5 to 1 000 000 cSt. Dimethicones with low (5 to 50 cSt) and medium viscosity (50 to 1000 cSt) are widely used in

of water-in-silicone or silicone-in-water emulsions. There are various types on the market, offering an array of HLB values (see Table 2). Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/ PPG-18/18 Dimethicone is one type of dimethicone copolyol widely used to prepare water-in-silicone emulsions commonly found in antiperspirant, skin care and colour cosmetics formulations. The material’s low surface tension and effective wetting properties provide a unique and gentle skin-feel whilst stabilising the emulsion. PEG/PPG Dimethicone is used as an emulsifier in the preparation of water-in-oil and siliconein-water emulsions. It can be used to prepare products with a low concentration of wax and high concentration of water, offering creams and lotions with a light and easily spreadable skin feel. A high surface activity offers other advantages compared to conventional w/o emulsifiers. PEG/PPG Dimethicone should be added and mixed into the silicone or oil phase in the

INCI

Dosage (%)

emulsion. Electrolytes such as sodium chloride

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol

60.00

should be pre-dissolved into the water phase to

Cyclopentasiloxane

40.00

viscosify and help develop a stable emulsion. Add

In this hair cuticle formulation, the volatile cyclopentasiloxane functions as a temporary, transient conditioner, while the non-volatile dimethiconol offers gloss-enhancing benefits

compound designed to assist in the preparation

preparation of a silicone-in-water or water-in-oil

Table 1: Silky Hair Cuticle Coat

Phase

dimethicone copolyol. This is an amphiphilic

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

the water phase slowly into silicone or oil phase to ensure complete and uniform emulsification.

INGREDIENTS Table 2

Mix with a high turbulence mechanical mixer at high speed for 10 to 30 minutes to

INCI

generate a small particle size distribution and

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone

homogenise if necessary. No heat is required during emulsification.

Today’s consumers demand highly effective products with perfect sensory profiles. Silicone elastomer gels, also known as silicone desirable skin-feel for the most innovative and flawless skin care formulations. They provide a dry, non-greasy and silky-smooth skin feel and fast absorption on skin. Silicone elastomers

Ideal for hair care Hair damage is inevitable. Chemical colouration, ageing, heat styling, environmental damage and changes in hormones can have a negative effect on hair’s sheen and drape,

hair. As silicone fluids are not soluble in

the word ‘crosspolymer’. A silicone fluid has no cross-linking potential, so the molecule backbone is highly flexible with great freedom of rotation. This means silicones remain in liquid form, even at high molecular

either water or organic oil, they become a major challenge to incorporate into aqueous systems. Silicone emulsions have been developed to overcome this hurdle and enable easy incorporation of a silicone without

weights. By contrast, elastomers have limited

heating and with low wshear.

degrees of rotation due to their cross-linked

Silicone emulsions based on a high molecular

structure, the high density of which increases

weight of dimethiconol have excellent

the stiffness or hardness of the crosspolymer.

Silicone and cationic polymer combinations are well documented as superior conditioning agents for hair

compatibility in aqueous solutions.

A silicone elastomer gel is used as a

These emulsions are easy to handle and

thickening agent, often without heating, to

improve the dispersion and distribution of

prepare water-in-silicone formulations. It

silicone on hair. A silicone emulsion

can act as a stabilising agent due to its inherent compatibility with a variety of lipophilic active

or oil phase prior to emulsification.

Water-in-silicone

as superior conditioning agents for

name for a silicone elastomer often contains

dispersed into either the silicone

Silicone-in-water

4-5

combinations are well documented

cyclomethicone or dimethicone. The INCI

formulation. It can be added and

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Silicone and cationic polymer

and supplied as swollen gels containing

reduces the tackiness of a given

PEG-12 Dimethicone

leaving it looking dull and unhealthy.

are based on crosslinked dimethicone

provides silky, smooth results and

Water-in-silicone

treatments such as bleaching and

crosspolymers, provide an exceptionally

filters and anti-ageing actives. It

Type of emulsion

HLB values of dimethicone copolyols

Functional and flexible

ingredients, such as perfumes, UV

HLB value

with the CTFA designation of

DID YOU KNOW?

dimethiconol (and) TEA-

Silicones are applicable to all personal care and cosmetics brands, from the simplest, costeffective shampoo for everyday use to class leading and innovative anti-ageing serums.

Alternatively, it can be post-added to an emulsion. For ease of use, the viscosity of an elastomer may be reduced by pre-blending with dimethicone or cyclomethicone. Silicone resins can be classed as silicone silicates. Siloxysilicates are a good example. These special compounds dry on the skin to form a sensory film and are often formulated

dodecylbenzenesulfonate, together with guar gum, is common in two in one shampoos to provide the conditioning effect and easy wet and dry combing. Another good example

is amodimethicone emulsion. Amodimethicone is a cationic silicone, which contains the amino functional group on the backbone of polydimethylsiloxane, replacing some of the methyl functional groups. It provides more

substantive conditioning benefits and been used in both leave in or rinse off conditioners. •

with other silicone fluids as plasticisers. They are excellent water-resistant additives with notable

REFERENCES:

non-transfer properties, which hold pigments

•. R ob Houben, Bas Prinssen. Silicone crosspolymers: customising

in the place for enhanced performance. They prevent particle agglomeration and maintain

sensory feel. Personal Care Magazine Nov 2011. •. w ww.rsc.org/chemistryworld/podcast/CIIEcompounds/transcripts/ silicones.asp

the free-flowing characteristics in loose-powder

•. w ww.brb-international.com/silicones/market/personal-care

products. Silicone resins are often incorporated

•. w ww.sehsc.americanchemistry.com/What-Are-Silicones

in sunscreen, deodorant, lipstick, mascara and foundation products. In hair care applications, they provide volume and body, while imparting humidity resistance.

BRB Silicones – www.brb-international.com/silicones

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

INGREDIENTS

Save water with starches Did you know a simple product like starch can contribute to reduced water usage in the personal care industry? Constantin Drapatz, Ingredion’s business development manager for Africa, examines how this naturally derived ingredient can have a positive effect both in manufacturing and end use.

as pigging and reducing the need for heating and cooling. Considering alternative bases or formulating powders and introducing solid and semi-solid products are also options. Another possibility is to explore greener packaging options and introduce emission reduction targets. But for manufacturers lacking the resources or capabilities to make large-scale changes to their processes or portfolios, substituting ingredients with multi-functional, specially adapted alternatives

he need for potable drinking water is

presents a viable solution. At Ingredion, our teams

hardly a new phenomenon in Africa.

have launched several nature-based personal care

Northern Kenya has faced severe drought

ingredient ranges, which can help manufacturers

over a prolonged period and in the last

conserve water and reduce energy consumption.

six months, Cape Town has seen water shortages reach levels critical enough to capture the attention of international

Nativacare natural polymers not only help enhance the sensory appeal of personal care products, they also stabilise rheology over shelf-

press. Millions of people have

life. Aiding spread-ability and flow-ability to create

had to rethink how they use

smooth, rich and luxurious textures, these starches

this precious resource, which

are non-ionic and compatible with a broad range

is in abundance in other

of raw materials, pH levels, temperatures and salts.

parts of the world. The issue has spread

Nativacare 5600 natural polymer is a texturiser that can increase and stabilise the rheology of

from the domestic into the

cosmetics and cleansing formulations, while

industrial domain where high

enhancing their sensory attributes. It can be

volumes of water are used

dispersed in cold water, without heating for

to manufacture consumer

homogenisation, contributing to reductions in

products. It has increased

energy usage.

urgency in the personal care industry where purified water is needed to function as a carrier, emulsifier or solvent when formulating shampoos, lotions, creams and conditioners. Water is also utilised in other capacities – from cooling to

Figure 1: A significantly higher amount of rich foam is created through the addition of Foamation PC, and clarity, viscosity and fragrance are not affected

Foamation PC in body wash

consumers to reduce their water usage is another option for personal care manufacturers to explore. The texture, foaming and rinse-off properties of a product can influence how much a consumer

continuous production.

uses to achieve the level of cleanliness and sensory benefits he or she expects.

Starches to conserve energy

starches and modified starches, are non-

Increased strain on

ionic, bio-based polymers that can be used to

natural resources and

enhance the aesthetic and sensorial attributes of

the growing emphasis

personal care products. To improve the sensory

on sustainability

experience, Farmal starches can be incorporated

are adding to the

directly at the end of the formulation process to

pressure. More than

reduce greasiness.

Farmal, Ingredion’s range of speciality native

Adopting more powerful and faster foaming

need to demonstrate

agents is another example of how sensory

proactive steps to limit

attributes can lead to a reduction in showering

water dependency

time. Foamation PC foaming agent, which creates

and implement

a dense, consistent foam structure with small

leaner processes.

homogeneous bubbles, gives cleansing products

Some manufacturers

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

Further down the supply chain, empowering

cleaning – to maintain

ever, manufacturers

Beyond the factory

a rich and luxurious skin feel. Reduced water

may be exploring

usage is achieved through fast foam formation

efficiency gains in

without compromising on the consumer’s satisfying

processing, such

sensory experience.

INGREDIENTS Figure 2: A higher amount of richer foam is created with the addition of Foamation PC, soft skin feel is maintained and the viscosity is not affected

Based on natural extracts, Foamation PC can also help manufacturers satisfy consumer demand

Foamation PC in face cleanser

for nature-based products by partially replacing surfactants. This ingredient is produced using quillaia extract, which received a Sustainable Harvest Award from the Chilean Ministry of Forestry, furthering its sustainability credentials.

Things to consider If a five minute shower requires around 45ℓ of water and larger volumes of thicker feeling foam encourage consumers to shorten their showering time by one minute, this would equate to a nine litre saving per person. In one week, between 63 and 126ℓ of water can be saved if consumers reduce their showering time by one to two minutes. In Cape Town, this scenario would provide consumers with a means to remain within the limited domestic allowance of 50ℓ of water per day.

In line with legislation, offering products that support short and long-term water

Whether or not water restrictions apply directly to

saving measures in South Africa could boost

South African personal care manufacturers, they

manufacturers’ appeal among environmentally

can all play a part in conserving water and energy

and socially conscious consumers. It would

usage. This can be achieved by reformulating

also help manufacturers maintain a positive

products using multi-functional ingredients, such

reputation when it comes to sustainability. •

as starches. Replacing synthetic ingredients with starches also enables clean label formulations and supports sustainable manufacturing processes.

Ingredion – www.emea.ingredion.com

Between 63 and 126ℓ of water can be saved if consumers reduce their showering time by one to two minutes

Matico Regeneration power from nature Recommended Applications • Soothing men’s grooming for shaved skin • Regenerating body care for microlesions and challenged skin • Calming baby care for sensitive and irritated skin • Anti oxidative and anti-aging concepts

Shonna Twynham Tel: 27 (0)11 922 1830 | Mobile: +27(0)79 372 0761 Fax: +27(0) 11 976 1706 Email: Shonna.Twynham@chemsystems.co.za www.chemsystems.co.za

Chem Systems.indd 1

2018/05/28 12:43 PM

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

INGREDIENTS

Get high on good skin care

The convergence of wellness and beauty has encouraged more openminded consumers. This is propelling the re-emergence of hemp as a natural soothing and calming remedy for skin and hair care.

he reintroduction of industrial

and reduces inflammation. It’s also

hemp is in full swing worldwide

beneficial for addressing concerns of

after the cultivation of Cannabis

acneic prone skin and for moisturising

sativa was banned at the start

dry skin.

of the 20th century due to its proximity to sister plant, marijuana. The movement

Organic hemp oil

started in Great Britain in the ’90s. A few

Hemp oil is a versatile ingredient

years later, cultivation spread to the

with a variety of beauty benefits.

Netherlands, Germany and eventually

It contains nourishing

throughout Europe.

cannabidiol (CBD), which is

According to the nova-Institute, a

the legal component of the

research and consultancy business in

cannabis plant known for its

Germany, which focuses predominantly

mood enhancing benefits.

on bio-based and CO2-based economies,

Symrise’s hemp oil is

DID YOU KNOW?

Hemp seed oil doesn’t contain Tetrahydrocannabinol, in Ayurvedic and Chinese commonly known as THC, so Medicine since ancient it has no psychoactive times. In ancient Egypt, hemp properties.

hemp is a sustainable high yielding crop

organically cultivated and

well adapted to most European conditions.

Cosmos approved. It promises to

It also has advantageous environmental

nourish, plump, firm and tighten skin

and agronomical characteristics.

and, because of its powerful antioxidant

Traditionally cultivated for its fibres, seeds

activity, it can help promote beautiful,

and psychoactive substances, hemp is

glowing skin*.

now considered an ideal crop to produce innovative biomaterials.

The company’s global consumer insight studies have revealed the

Symrise is one supplier of cosmetics

emotional beauty megatrend has

ingredients which has recognised hemp for

a strong connection to the rise of

its superior quality oil, which can be used as

cannabis in skin care products. As

an all-natural alternative for skin care. The

consumers become more in tune with

seeds of Cannabis sativa are a source of

their moods and feelings, ‘emotional

rich nutrient oil, which contains more than

design in beauty’ will become a focus

56 percent linoleic acid.

for new product development.

The oil is cold pressed and filtered to

Traditionally, hemp is one of the

produce a dark green liquid. Symrise’s R&D

oldest crops that has been cultivated in

team says hemp is an amazing skin and

Asia for fibre, food, oil and herbal use.

hair care ingredient that calms, soothes

Hemp has also been used medicinally

The emotional beauty megatrend has a strong connection to the rise of cannabis in skin care products

was used to treat inflammations.

Formulations to encourage innovation To inspire new ideas for hemp oil beauty and skin care products, Symrise has created a series of concepts. The sky high in-flight face oil with hydrating hemp oil is an innovative on-the-go oil perfect for parched, dry, dehydrated skin. For this product, hemp oil is blended with SymBright 2036, an environmental shield active that protects against the external elements associated with traveling, such as sun, pollution, smoke, smog and dust. Another idea is the restoring daily conditioner with hemp oil to revive and repair dry hair. The conditioner is formulated with ultra nourishing and hydrating hemp oil and SymHair Shape, a new hair care active to enhance curls and repair hair. SymHair Shape has been proven to retain curl shape, control volume, seal cuticles and improve hair strength. The relaxing beauty elixir is the third hemp based innovation from Symrise. This relaxing and warming product is formulated with hemp oil, Thermolat – a warming ingredient – and SymMollient S or SymMollient PDCC to awaken the senses. • *Claims based on Symrise R&D, Holzminden, Germany

Symrise – www.symrise.com

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

INGREDIENTS

Actives inspired by the Mediterranean

Cosmetic Science, reported the topical application of Renegrape stimulates cell turnover and has an exfoliating activity that is well tolerated by the skin. Renegrape provides a peeling effect similar to glycolic and mandelic acids but without the

ased in Italy, Bionap uses

skin care products to prevent skin photo-

undesirable side effects, such as skin

by-products or co-products

ageing. The free radical scavenging action

irritation or inflammation.

of the agricultural process

of hydroxytyrosol has been proven in

of Mediterranean fruits and

several in vitro and in vivo studies, showing

Target cellulite

vegetables to produce standardised

the preventive activity of Olea-HT 10 on

Flavoslim is a powder ingredient

extracts for nutraceutical, cosmetics

ageing and chronic degenerative skin

that contains active

and functional foods. The company,

diseases. It can also counteract wrinkle

compounds (eight to 10

represented locally by Protea Chemicals,

development and hyperpigmentation

percent in flavonoids) of the

follows an eco-sustainable approach when

caused by UV radiation.

juice of bergamot (Citrus

sourcing and producing its ingredients.

bergamia Risso et Poiteau). This

Safe exfoliation Prevent photo-ageing

active ingredient has the power to

Renegrape is a skin

activate fat metabolism, reducing fat

The olive tree holds immense anti-

peeling agent from

cell accumulation, inducing a lipolytic

ageing benefits thanks to the high

Bionap made up of

effect and inhibiting inflammatory

level of antioxidants found in olive

an organic acid mixture

processes and related consequences on

fruit. Extracted from Olea Europaea L,

(tartaric, malic, lactic, citric and

adipose cells.

Bionap has develop Olea-HT 10, a bright yellow powder that contains

gluconic acids) derived from grapes (Vitis

Bionap created Flavoslim for body care

vinifera). The active is supplied in a liquid

formulations, such as gels, emulsions and

hydroxytyrosol (10 percent

extract format that is ideal for creams,

massage products aimed at reducing

HPLC). Its high antioxidant power

lotions and gels for face and body. A

cellulite and improving skin’s firmness

clinical study published in the Journal of

and tonicity. •

makes Olea-HT 10 ideal for use in

Partnering with Protea Chemicals

BIONAP srl, Bioactive Natural Products Natural Ingredients for Nutraceutical and Cosmetic Applications derived from by- products of Mediterranean Agricultural Production, made in Sicily. Actives that are used in skin brightening, moisturising and repair, anti-ageing, skin renewal and skin firming and MedOils which include Mediterranean Essential and Cold Pressed Oils.

CHINA LISTED

Leanne Rossouw: Industry Sector Manager Mobile: + 27 (0)76 683 5615 Tel: +27 11 821 3310 Email: Leanne.Rossouw@proteachemicals.co.za General Enquiries: info@proteachemicals.co.za

Protea.indd 1

2018/05/28 8:22 AM

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

INGREDIENTS

Effective, holistic and authentic

Ethical sourcing, clean label formulations and increased environmental concerns have seen a series of positive changes in the cosmetics industry. P C Review looks at how these trends are driving R&D and transparency within the ingredients supply chain.

uthenticity has become a

years. This meant we needed to secure

major driver in the cosmetics

supply chains for many of the raw

industry, not only among

materials we use. To control the quality

start-ups and local indie

of the extracts that go into Esse, we

brands but also multinationals.

purchased a vacuum spray dryer to

Forget the celebrity influencer or cult

generate powdered extracts at a low

appeal – these days ethical practices

temperature. The production capacity

and a non-commercial aspirational pull

of the equipment greatly exceeds our

offer something far more appealing to

needs, so it makes sense to offer these

personal care shoppers. Think of culture,

extracts to the market at fair prices,’

heritage, traditions and rituals, and

Steyn explains.

the associated ingredients that take

Intiki currently offers a limited yet

consumers on a journey to an intriguing

innovative range of natural, African

time and place.

plant based ingredients. Produced using

Africa is one of those destinations

baobab powder, Bao PE is a prebiotic

that hold major intrigue for cosmetics

with high vitamin and mineral content.

and skin care with the demand for plant

It has high antioxidant and anti-ageing

derived, natural ingredients continuing

activity and has been shown to promote

to grow. Intiki is one of a few South

smooth skin and improve its elasticity.

African companies at the centre of this

Harpago PE, an extract of

green goldmine, producing natural and

Harpagophytum procumbens or the

organic spray dried actives using African

Devil’s Claw plant, has good anti-

and indigenous plants. The company is

inflammatory and analgesic properties.

the brainchild of Trevor Steyn, who also

These make it ideal for healing and

created Esse, a probiotic skincare brand

antioxidant skin care products.

with international success.

Myro PE, an extract of the well-known

‘Esse has been lucky enough to enjoy rapid growth over the last few

resurrection plant (Myrothamnus flabellifolia), is a potent protector against free radicals. The active contains high

Captured over a three hour period, these images show how the resurrection plant regenerates itself with the provision of water to resume metabolic processes

amounts of polyphenols with 3,4,5 tri-O-galloylquinic acid accounting for 40 percent of the dry mass of the

dormant plant. In skin care products it offers rapid moisturisation, pollution protection and anti-erythema benefits. These ingredients from Intiki comply with Nagoya Protocol standards for ethical biotrade. ‘We hold a Biodiversity Permit and we have historically worked with PhytoTrade Africa members to ensure we use only sustainably wild-harvested plant material,’ Steyn explains. ‘We’ve recently started working with partners in jointventure agreements. These agreements have been ratified against the Nagoya Protocol to ensure we comply with Access and Benefit Sharing legislation. The harvesting does not threaten existing wild populations of plants and we ensure the harvesters are fairly remunerated for their work.’ Over time, Intiki will be adding more actives to its offering, with the first locally produced probiotic active next on the company’s list of ingredients to be introduced to the market.

Something old and new Chantal O’Brien-de Villiers of Materia Medica says new technologies, whether for extraction or delivery purposes, continue to push the boundaries of innovation. ‘Take the increase in climate change as an example. While many ecosystems are suffering biodiversity losses as a result, the industry is maximising the opportunity by developing anti-pollution and anti-glycation actives to protect consumers,’ she explains. ‘With Infinitec’s Activys Antipollution active, formulators can include a multi-purpose environmental protection active in their products. With anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and the ability to reduce heavy metal and matter adhesion on skin, this new active is a leader in pollution protection.’ Ingredients that promote microbiota balance are also very trendy. New from Phenbiox, Pure-Phen is obtained using exclusive bio-liquefaction technology and an enzyme-based process, which support the complete recovery of plant phyto-complexes. The result is a purifying, soothing and conditioning active that helps maintain a healthy skin and scalp. The combination of natural active ingredients contained in Pure-Phen does not alter the physiological condition of

0:00

1:00

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

2:00

3:00

the skin, but rather assists in fighting the micro-flora imbalances.

INGREDIENTS While new ingredients continue to entice

vPvB substance. These ingredients will no

Dedraflow products are based on

formulators, many suppliers are investing

longer be permitted in wash-off products

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene or mixtures

in R&D to improve the compatibility

in a concentration equal to or greater than

of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene. These

and efficacy of existing market leading

0.1 percent after January 2020.

ultra soft emollients are compatible with

ingredients like Retinol. Late last year, Infinitec developed a new carrier of a lipid nature for the Retinol market, called VitAlease. O’Brien-de Villiers says the carrier is set to minimise the challenges associated with Retinol-based products such as stability, bioavailability and high irritation potential. VitAlease consists of seven percent Retinol encapsulated in natural, carnauba wax.

most cosmetics ingredients and offer the

Each grade of Dedraflow is uniquely matched to common silicone profiles

Silicone alternatives In January, Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane

same volatility and texture as silicones with added photostability and increased safety and ease of use. They also prevent the formation of UV-light induced free radicals in a formulation. Each grade of Dedraflow is uniquely matched to the common silicone profiles of D4, D5 and Dimethicone, offering a luxurious skin feel. Dedraflow 5 and 5.1 are ideal for use in foundations and skin and hair care products. Dedraflow 5.2, 5.3 and

Progressive formulators looking to

5 HR are the most volatile grades, which

(D4) and Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane

improve their products from a compliance,

are required for non-transfer applications

(D5) were added to the restricted

environmental and consumer desirable

such as eyeliners and mascaras. •

substances list of the European Chemicals

perspective should consider The

Agency (ECHA), documented in Annex XVII

Innovation Company’s Dedraflow series of

of the REACH Restricted Substance List 2018.

silicone alternatives. These ingredients are

According to The Innovation Company,

available in South Africa from Fourchem,

this means D4 and D5 have been identified

which recently expanded its national

as persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic

footprint with the launch of an office in

substances. As a very persistent and very

KwaZulu-Natal. This branch in Glen Anil,

bio-accumulative (vPvB) substance, D5

Durban complements Fourchem’s existing

also fulfils the criteria to be identified as a

business in Cape Town and Johannesburg.

Fourchem – www.fourchem.co.za Infinitec – www.infinitec.es Intiki – www.intiki.co.za Materia Medica – www.materiamedica.co.za Phenbiox – www.phenbiox.it The Innovation Company – www.theinnovationcompany.fr

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

INGREDIENTS

Energise skin

with natural antioxidants Using natural sources for beauty benefits is a hot trend with many consumers looking for products with recognisable ingredients in their formulations. According to Mintel, this booming market is evident in the number of new beauty and personal care product launches claiming ‘superfruits’.

aturex, a leader in speciality

with the skin care ingredients 2017 online

ingredient saw a 36 percent increase

leading position in the market for face

in the number of new product

care products in 2017 with US$15.5 billion

launches formulated with acerola

in sales.

cherry between 2012 and 2016.

The cornelian cherry meets consumer

innovative ingredients using

Grown mainly in small scale

and market demands for Asian botanicals.

plantations, Naturex sources its acerola

Mintel reported a 183 percent increase

cherry from the Pernambouc province of

in the number of new product launches

northeast Brazil. The fruits are harvested

formulated with cornelian cherry between

manually while they are still green, from

2012 and 2016.

November to May to maximise their vitamin C content. Traceability is ensured

Traceability is ensured from field to factory through cropbooks

plant-based natural ingredients, has developed

According to Mintel, this trendy

conference reporting China held the

from field to factory through cropbooks and an agronomic service is offered to suppliers through long-term partnerships. The efficacy of Naturex’s acerola powder extract was tested in vitro and shown to be the most powerful antioxidant in the company’s range of extracts, with the

Naturex’s cornelian cherry is sustainably

highest ORAC value at 26 times more

harvested in the mountains of the Shanxi

antioxidant activity than orange extract

cornelian and acerola cherries, which are

and Henan provinces in China. The

powder. Other benefits of the acerola

two of nature’s most powerful superfruits.

mature fruits are harvested in Autumn and

documented in scientific literature include

The ingredients form part of the company’s

removed from their kernel before being

anti-ageing, radiance, whitening and

BeautyFood Collection of natural skin care

dried and cleaned. The authenticity of

dermo purifying.

solutions, which are available in South

the raw material is strictly controlled prior

Africa from CJP Chemicals. These natural

to extraction.

skin care solutions are produced using

In addition to these exciting proven ingredients, Naturex offers a number of other sources of natural antioxidants from

Best dose of vitamin C

superfruits, including guarana, cranberry,

Acerola cherries are said to have more

acai, dragon’s fruit, goji, camu camu

Asia’s new superfruit

vitamin C than all other food sources,

and amla. •

The cornelian cherry is a powerful

making them a true superfruit. They are

superfruit that not only offers antioxidant

consumed worldwide in the form of juice

benefits, but also answers the increasing

and pulp, or as a concentrate of vitamin C

demand for products from Asia. Deemed

in food supplements designed to boost to

Asianification, this trend is on the rise,

the immune system.

edible plant extracts.

Omyapharm Calcium Carbonate & Tribasic Calcium phosphate Innovative multifunctional mineral excipient · Highly porous and compactable carrier · Low friable fast disintegrating ODTs lisadk@cjpchemicals.co.za

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Naturex – www.naturex.com

Omya Consumer Goods omya.com

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

Simple and effective taste masking Gattefossé has developed a new taste masking platform. The company’s objective was to keep the platform as simple as possible yet suitable for a wide variety of drugs.

here are many ways to mask the

The impeller speed creates movement of the

bad taste of active pharmaceutical

powders in the bowl and generates inter-

cubic structures with sharp edges. After

ingredients (APIs), such as

particulate friction producing heat. This heat

coating, the particles have rounded edges

developing a specific formulation

induces partial melting of Precirol ATO 5,

due to the thin and uniform lipid coating

with flavours and sweeteners, which often

which forms a thin and homogenous film

(see Figure 1).

involves a lengthy trial and error process.

covering the drug particles. Coating time is

Drug release over time is also a means

Another option is hot melt coating with a

also important to ensure coating uniformity.

to measure the process efficiency. If drug

lipid excipient, yet this requires an adapted

Chopper speed is a non-critical parameter.

release is below the detection threshold of

fluid bed coater and expertise to achieve

It is adjusted during coating and cooling to

2.2mg/mL over five minutes, taste masking is

successful taste masking.

prevent granule formation. The key steps of

considered efficient.

For the new taste masking platform,

the process are:

Before coating, the KCl particles exhibit

A test panel of volunteers also evaluated

Gattefossé used a conventional high shear

• pre-blending of API and Precirol ATO 5

pure KCl and coated KCl and confirmed

coater (Diosna P1-6, Osnabrück, Germany)

• generation of friction heat with a high

the high shear coating technology provides

without external heating or cooling and a

impeller speed. When the product

binary formulation of API and Precirol ATO 5.

temperature reaches 42 to 45°C, the

effective taste masking. To illustrate the versatility of the high

impeller speed is reduced. The inertia

shear coating process, a number of APIs

High shear coating

within the system causes the temperature

have been tested with cubic and needle

The process is simple. It does not require any

to rise a few degrees.

crystalline shapes, different melting points,

adaptation to the equipment and there are

• Coating for three minutes at 48°C

mean diameter from 100 to 400µm, and

a limited number of parameters to control.

• cooling and discharge.

modal and bimodal particle size distribution (see Figure 2).

Figure 1: KCl particles before (left) and after coating (right)

Proven efficiency

were successfully coated using Precirol ATO 5

Using potassium

and the straightforward high shear method.

Despite these differences, all drug particles

chloride (KCl)

Figure 2: The high shear coating process is suitable for a wide range of drugs

as a model

An ideal agent

drug, Gattefossé

Precirol ATO 5 (Glyceryl Distearate) is the

conducted a

ideal excipient for taste masking with

number of studies

melt coating technology due to its low

to demonstrate

melting point and fast recrystallisation.

the efficacy of

The low melting point enables low process

its high shear

temperatures, ideal for heat sensitive

coating process.

actives. Rapid recrystallisation upon cooling facilitates quick solidification of the film around the drug particles, preventing caking. This excipient is GRAS and compliant with European Pharmacopoeia and USP National Formulary guidelines. It is listed in the FDA Inactive Ingredient Database and has precedence of use in tablets and capsules, including paediatric medicines. Comhan Trading is the southern African agent for Gattefossé. •

Comhan Trading – www.comhan.co.za Gattefossé – www.goo.gl/uLUicp

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

Understanding drug-nutrient interactions for optimal patient health Both over-the-counter (OTC) and prescription medications are used worldwide to manage a wide variety of health issues. To ensure successful treatment and patient wellbeing, experts at DSM says it’s vital drugs are prescribed accurately and cautiously, while considering the impact of drug-drug and drug-nutrient interactions.

hile drug-drug interactions

manage Type 2 diabetes, can alter

it is likely that DHA promotes programmed

have been widely

vitamin B12 levels in patients, with a large

cell death (apoptosis) while protecting

researched, a potential

pool of scientific evidence associating

healthy cells, by increasing the sensitivity

reaction between drugs

long term usage with B12 deficiency2,3,4.

of tumour cells to conventional therapies8.

and nutrients is often overlooked.

Scientific literature suggests oral

Another beneficial DNI involves the

Drug-nutrient interactions (DNIs) are

contraceptive use in women is associated

combined treatment of statins and EPA

alterations of pharmacokinetics or

with compromised folate status, which

and DHA to reduce mortality following

pharmacodynamics of a drug or

means those who become pregnant

myocardial infarction (MI)9. The GISSI

nutritional element, or a compromise in

shortly after stopping contraception

Prevenzione trial first demonstrated EPA

nutritional status due to the addition of

may be more at risk of complications5.

and DHA supplementation was associated

a drug. The interrelationships between

In response, folate supplementation at

with decreased mortality and improved

drugs and nutrients are complex and

a dose of 0.40mg per day for at least

outcomes in post-MI patients – findings that

there are many different ways in which

three months before pregnancy is highly

were confirmed in a recent retrospective

they can interact.

recommended to achieve adequate

cohort study10,11.

There are many factors that can

folate status and reduce the risk of foetal

determine the clinical response of a

neural tube defects6.

DNI, including nutritional status, specific

A personalised approach With the development of new drugs

drug characteristics, patient age

Improve lives with DNIs

and increased usage of OTC medicine,

and gender and drug administration

There is also research to support how

understanding DNIs is more important

route1. The two main clinical effects of

DNIs can be purposefully used to improve

than ever. Advancing knowledge of DNIs

DNIs are considered to be decreased

treatment. One example is the use

can help pharmaceutical manufacturers

bioavailability of a drug, which can

of eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and

and healthcare professionals develop a

lead to treatment failure, or increased

docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) in cancer

more personalised approach to medicine.

bioavailability, which may cause adverse

patients. There is increasing evidence

However, accurately determining the effects

events or even toxicities.

that the addition of EPA and DHA, in

of nutrients on patient outcomes and health

While clinical data is severely lacking, there are case studies that show clinical reactions being observed for some DNIs. For example, metformin, used to

conjunction with conventional

DID YOU KNOW?

cytotoxin therapies, may

DNIs can have a negative impact on a patient’s health, particularly in at-risk groups, but there is also research to support potential positive outcomes. While understanding DNIs is of vital importance, the area is considerably unexplored and not often part of the clinical routine.

provide a better outcome of the cancer treatment7. While the underlying

remains a complex task. More research and supporting clinical data is required to provide the information needed to integrate DNIs into general medical advice. With its heritage as the former vitamins

mechanisms are not

and fine chemicals division of Roche

yet fully understood,

Vitamins, DSM Nutritional Products (DSM) brings more than 70 years’ experience in producing vitamin active pharmaceutical ingredients. It is also the global leader in the production of EPA and DHA derived from either sustainable marine sources or microbial fermentation. Its 400-strong R&D team participates in and conducts its own clinical trials – giving DSM access to pioneering research platforms and positioning the company perfectly to support future studies on DNIs. • * References are available on request.

DSM – www.dsm.com

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

ADVERTORIAL

Afriplex

Harnessing Nature’s Best Afriplex was established in 2001 with strong focus on African indigenous plant extracts. Today, it is one of the leading contract manufacturers of CAMs and health supplement products in the country. P&C Review asked Afriplex’s Responsible Pharmacist, Robert Longrigg, a couple of questions about this growing business. WHAT IS THE HISTORY OF AFRIPLEX? Afriplex started 17 years ago with the original objective of unlocking the potential of traditionally used African botanical remedies. At initiation of our operations, we focussed on producing ingredients for the food and beverage industry. Since then our expansion into plant cultivation activities to supply African botanical plant material helped us gain a solid understanding of complementary medicines (CAMs). Today, our mission is to conceptualise novel CAMs products for key clients, based on scientifically proven safety and efficacy data, manufactured and packed according to cGMP quality standards.

HAS AFRIPLEX PIONEERED ANY MAJOR INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENTS? The company is one of a few in South Africa that not only offers contract manufacturing for CAMs but also produces botanical extracts. Our focus is on African botanical plant extractions, promoting our continent’s unique biodiversity. Afriplex also prides itself in developing APIs and the complete compilation of their API master files. Our API developments include Folicin

A/T® (in collaboration with the CSIR), Afriplex GRT® (in collaboration with the MRC), Prosopis (in collaboration with Innovus), Pelargonium S70® and Rosehip C®. We are privileged to work with many educational institutions g Rob e and research organisations on r t Longr ig various projects. This is to ensure there is WHAT PRODUCTS AND SERVICES sound scientific basis behind these products DOES AFRIPLEX OFFER? before we look at commercialising them. Our We are more than just a contract development partners include the Technology manufacturer. We add value in all stages Innovation Agency, University of the Free throughout the supply chain. The main State, University of the Western Cape, products we offer are divided into active SAMRC, Innovus, University of Pretoria, CSIR pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and finished and Stellenbosch University. products. The oral solid dosage (OSD) As part of our focus on education we are finished forms we offer are capsules and thrilled to host this year’s Afriplex Technical tablets, including chewable, oro-dispersible, Symposium at the JSE in Sandton. This granulated and effervescent tablets. In year’s schedule is set to pique the interest of expanding our capabilities, it was essential Gauteng based clients as well as those from to install our microbiological laboratory, around the country. which has been fully functional over the last three years. Additional to this, we invested WHAT IS AFRIPLEX’S in a cGMP compliant analytical laboratory CAPACITY FOR TABLET AND and stability chambers. The emphasis in our CAPSULE PRODUCTION? service delivery is to be adaptable and meet Our initial focus was on liquid dosage the needs of our clients. The services we forms but we quickly grew to include OSD offer include product development, product forms into our product offering. We have analysis, ZACTD compilation and stability increased our capacity both with state of programs. Since last year, we have again the art equipment, and facility capability and shifted emphasis on market requirements by expansion. This included the development concentrating more on health supplements investment of additional OSD rooms and in addition to our herbal medicine portfolio. extra packing lines. Our production capability We have been an integral part in the ‘source stands at 50 million tablets and 30 million to shelf’ process of launching and producing capsules per month. We have grown our multiple new health supplements in various in-house competencies by careful selection forms, including a range of probiotics. of expertly skilled minds and well experienced

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

staff, both in our quality assurance and R&D departments. Afriplex has a six-phase expansion project planned for the next few years. This will include additions to our OSD manufacturing and packing areas as well as adding inhouse blistering and tablet film coating to our offering. We aim to develop our abilities to meet the needs of our ever-developing client base and with this comes the imperative need for growth.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR AFRIPLEX? We are committed to continued growth and expansion, both in our offering to customers and expertise with which we service the market. With this in mind we were excited to open our Johannesburg office in early 2018, servicing our Gauteng based clients. Our motto, ‘Source to Shelf’ best encompasses our vision of being a true one stop shop. By offering a wide range of services, we believe we are at the forefront of what is possible in our market. The value of our service offering within a cGMP compliant facility and our continuous development in line with pharma trends and requirements, keep the Afriplex team very excited about future possibilities – for the company and our clients.

info@afriplex.co.za | +27 (0)21 872 4976 +27 (0)86 578 1305 | www.afriplex.co.za Afriplex Pty Ltd @afriplex

Afriplex Pty Ltd

NUTRACEUTICALS CALCIUM SALTS AND SUPPLEMENTS DI-COMPREZ®

Sudeep Pharma is recognized as one of the largest manufacturer of speciality excipients in the world! These excipients include fillers, lubricants and calcium supplements. We are pleased to introduce the speciality calcium salts used as fillers, as well as calcium supplements. DI-COMPREZ®: Calcium Hydrogen Phosphate – Dihydrate A-COMPREZ®

• • • •

Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Unmilled: Ideal for direct compression Powder: Ideal for wet granulation and soft gel capsules US DMF: 029976

A-COMPREZ®: Calcium Hydrogen Phosphate - Anhydrous • • • •

Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Unmilled: Ideal for direct Compression Powder: Ideal for wet granulation and soft gel capsules US DMF: 028751

PressCAL® PressCAL®: Calcium Carbonate Granular PressCAL® grades are the highest quality, directly compressible, free-flowing calcium carbonate granules available for the nutritional and pharmaceutical industry. • • • •

Brenntag South Africa (Pty) Ltd 11 Mansell Road Killarney Gardens Cape Town, 7441 Cape Town +27 (0) 21 556 1920 Johannesburg/KwaZulu-Natal +27 (0) 11 396 3733 info@brenntag.co.za

www.brenntag.com/south-africa

Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Powder grades: Ground and precipitated calcium carbonate CEP and WC Available with different binders: » MD: Maltodextrin » AC: Acacia gum » CS: Corn starch » MA: Maltodextrin and Acacia gum

Brenntag SA represents and distributes the Sudeep Pharma products in South Africa.

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

How to avoid

sticky situations Tablet sticking and picking challenges are universal in pharma manufacturing. In a regulated environment, developing new molecules often has a sense of urgency. Yet this can result in hasty decisions to begin clinical trials with or submit for regulatory approval a formulation that causes unanticipated compression scale-up problems.

Another potential solution is to increase the amount of lubricant used in the formulation, imparting greater release of the compressed tablet from the punch cup surface. Careful inspection of the punch cups is essential to ensure there are no surface scratches that can capture very small particles of formulation. These scratches will lead to filming, a slow form of

he design process for an oral solid

the punch cup and the embossing within it.

sticking often caused by excess moisture

dosage form often overlooks some

The first stage of a sticking problem occurs

in the granulation. Punches should be

seemingly minor details, which can

when the adhesive force can pull even a

polished if scratches are identified. A

result in defects when scaling-up

single particle away from the tablet.

specialised polishing compound can

manufacturing. Marketing departments like

The problem of formulation sticking

be used for greater lubricity and better

to use certain tablet shapes and logos to

in the letters and characters of punch

enhance brand recognition, but these can

embossing is referred to as picking. This is

have design constraints that result in post-

a type of sticking often rooted in an inferior

tablet and tooling design review may be

approval manufacturing complications.

tablet design. It can be resolved but is

necessary. Font selection is often a battle of

Compression tooling manufacturers can

rarely predictable and often not detected

form versus function. While pleasing to the

identify potential sticking and picking issues

until transferring product from the R&D

eye, an ornate or decorative font will likely

before tablet and tool designs have been

environment to production. The selection

cause picking problems and tablet defects.

finalised, reducing the shared challenges.

of the proper font and the engraving

Figure 1 illustrates the differences between

Sticking and picking issues stem from

cut design for character islands and

an impractical and more practical

formulation or tablet design inadequacies

character peninsulas are typical sources of

font selection.

because of the differences in physical

picking issues.

product release properties. When simple fixes are not enough, a full

Change the engraving cut

properties of the formulation excipients and drug substance. The process of blending

Simple considerations

components of a formulation results in a

Remediation of picking and sticking

important aspect. Figure 2 illustrates a

powder that will either consolidate and

does not always require changing tools.

typical round tablet. The engraving of the

compress or not.

When powder sticks in the embossed

number nine cut into the tablet is illustrated

letters, first check the moisture level of the

with typical engraving cut width, depth

Cohesive forces

formulation. Excess formulation

Formation of a compact is the result of

moisture or excessive humidity

chemical dispersive and mechanical

in the compression suite can

forces joining particles to form a solid of

initiate picking.

measurable density and porosity. The

Insufficient compression force

cohesive forces binding the particles can

is also a potential source of

be assessed through a series of studies

picking because the compaction

to determine whether problems with

of the powder is not complete.

tablet compaction can be anticipated1.

This means the adhesive forces

Compaction profiles and strain rate studies

can readily overcome the

are important to development projects.

cohesive forces of the improperly

Such studies ensure a high probability for

compressed tablet.

successful scaleup and technical

Figure 1: Impractical versus practical design

transfer. Tablet particles are bound by cohesive forces. However, during the compression process, the cohesive forces are challenged by the adhesive forces of

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

The design of the engraving cut is another

Figure 2: Typical round tablet with an engraving

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation and a 35° angle. Most product formulations should be readily compressed into tablets using tools with this engraving design. To reduce or eliminate material picking in the centre island, pre-picking can be incorporated in the design. This is illustrated in Figure 3 where the depth for the island is reduced from 0.33 to 0.17mm, defined as a 50 percent pre-

Figure 4: Pre-pick and taper on a round tablet

Figure 3:Pre-pick of the engraving on a round tablet

pick. The amount REFERENCE:

of reduction can

1. Sedlock R, It’s all in the detail, European Pharmaceutical Manufacturer 16(2): pp16-7, 2016

range between 10 and 100 percent, depending on the extent of the problem. For branding or aesthetics, tablets coated after compression must be taken into consideration, as excessive

Natoli Engineering

Formpak – www.formpak.com Natoli Engineering – www.natoli.com

pre-pick will significantly reduce the clarity of the logo. The partial pre-pick concept is applicable to any letter or numeral with fully enclosed areas called ‘islands’ or ‘pads’. Complex characters that do not have fully enclosed areas – like E, S, K and M and numerals like 2, 3 and 5 – are also prone to picking and require tapering or ramping as a prevention measure. Having peninsulas tapered between 10 and 50 percent of the engraving depth is usual, with 30 percent the most common. An example of a 50 percent taper is illustrated on the right side of Figure 4.

Tooling construction materials If the sticking and picking are discovered during R&D or if it’s time to order the next set of punches for a product with known sticking and picking issues, consider having the punches made from a speciality steel. Punch steel with

PARTNER WITH THE GLOBAL LEADER IN TABLET COMPRESSION TOOLING:

a high concentration of chromium in the alloy chemistry, usually between 16 and 18 percent, enhances release of the compressed product. Applying a coating to standard steel punches to enhance the release characteristics of the punch faces is another alternative. The most common coatings are hard chrome and

• Tablet Presses • Tooling • And Ancillary Equipment

chromium nitride. Bear in mind, the thin chrome coating layer may wear off over time due to the abrasion of the formulation and polishing. So, the better long-term choice may be a high-

Representative for Southern Africa:

chrome steel without coating. Ultimately, several remedies can help speed a new drug to market, ranging from slight formulation changes to major tablet design and tooling modifications. When developing a to-market strategy, early consultation with a tooling vendor like

www.formpak.com

Natoli Engineering is best. Insights from the Natoli Engineering

The one-stop shop for tablet compression tooling.

technical team or its agent in southern Africa, Formpak, will benefit the final product and help create a tablet acceptable to both the manufacturer and consumer. •

Formpak.indd 1

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

2018/05/28 8:14 AM

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

Go GMP approved

for tablet manufacturing

J Labs recently introduced

its customers. By operating productively,

a 27 station double sided

the company can provide outstanding

rotary tablet press to its

customer service.

manufacturing arsenal.

The new tablet press increases the

Coating in focus

company’s productivity and helps meet

Another important facet of tablet

the high demand for effervescent and

manufacturing is tablet coating. At MJ

film coated tablets. Its output ranges from

Labs, the coating machine is highly

approximately 60 000 to 130 000 tables per

efficient, safe, clean and mechatronic, and

hour depending on tooling size and the

conforms to the requirements of GMP.

shape and material characteristics of the finished product. The tablet press is constructed

It’s functionality is vast, including sugar coating, organic coating, water soluble coating and slow release or controlled

according to GMP requirements for

release film coating. The coating machine

hygienic production and operator safety.

consists of the main machine; exhaust,

It is also easy to maintain and simple

heater and electronic cabinets; slow

to operate, providing convenience in

and prostatic tanks and the spray gun

manufacturing and ensuring an effective

assembly. It includes a PLC and HMI

end product.

control system with reasonable design

The spray lubrication system for

and flexible programming, which can be

effervescent tablet production ensures MJ

adapted to the different requirements of

Labs produces high quality products for

pharmaceutical technology.

MJ Lab's tablet coating machine

Offering reliable work and stable performance, the tablet coating machine at MJ Labs has a per batch capacity ranging from 80 to 130kg and coatings are available in a wide range of colours. By combining high quality equipment and materials coupled with the extensive experience of the MJ Labs’ team, the company can provide pharmaceutical and nutraceutical customers with the excellence they require. •

Mobile Therapy (MJ Labs) – www.mjlabs.co.za

Taking responsibility

for providing quality service. MJ Labs is a contract manufacturer and packer for complementary medicines, health supplements, cosmetics and vitamin fortification. This is done in capsule, powder, cream, liquid, tablet and sachet form for human use. New machinery has been introduced which includes a blister pack machine, tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet packing machine.

MJ Lab ad.indd 1

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

2018/05/24 10:13 AM

We bring innovation and solutions to meet your formulation challenges, using speciality pharmaceutical ingredients from leading global manufacturers.

IMCD South Africa is proud to be the exclusive distributor of all pharmaceutical ingredients for:

IMCD South Africa | Kreason Gopalan | 082 499 1331

PHARMA FOCUS//Tabletting & Encapsulation

High containment

for extremely potent pharmaceuticals Bosch Packaging Technology has launched a fast high precision capsule filling machine for small batches. With a specially designed platform for a fully automated washable containment process, the new GKF 720 ensures efficient and resource-saving processing for all types of hard capsules.

The GKF 720 from Bosch Packaging Technology ensures the highest safety

enedict Kleine-Koenig, product

powders in particular, it features a patented,

manager at Bosch, says the system

automatic height adjusting pellet station and

has been specially tailored to the

a manually height adjustable dosing disk.

demands of manufacturing highly

Together with the net weight detection system

potent solid pharmaceuticals. ‘During development, the focus was on satisfying manufacturers’ high safety requirements, as well as process precision and stability. The OEB5 containment ensures the highest protection for the

DID YOU KNOW?

(NWDS) and the integrated gravimetric checkweigher, these features allow consistent in-process control (IPC). The regular adjustment of

Building on many years of dosed amounts via IPC ensures experience with the 702 ProTect a stable, capacitive measuring and 1700 HiProTect series, the GFK process throughout the 720 completes Bosch Packaging production cycle. Technology’s containment ‘Depending on the product portfolio with an output properties, the NWDS can achieve of 720 capsules and constantly maintain a high per minute.

operator, machine and

product, while its minimal water requirements, 100 percent

measurement capacity – with a

relative standard deviation of less than one percent,’ he adds.

defective capsule detection and compact design translate

Highly modular

into additional cost savings,’

The extremely flexible plug-and-play station

he explains.

of the GKF 720 supports rapid switching, for instance from pellets to powders. ‘For our

Minimal water consumption

customers, the trend toward dosing different

During the first cleaning stage of

frequent product changeovers at relatively

the GKF 720, the components that

short intervals,’ says Kleine-Koenig. ‘The

solids in small batches of capsules means

come into contact with the product

machine’s modular design offers them the

are automatically cleaned from

highest possible flexibility: the system can be

above with 200mℓ of water, binding the highly potent residual dust. The second stage sees the processing area manually flushed with a maximum of

converted in less than five minutes. Moreover, the exchange of the modules is so simple and failsafe that even an inexperienced operator can do it.’

10ℓ of water, quickly and completely ridding it of any product residue. The

Extended service portfolio

specially designed table-top and

Customers can also take advantage of an

new dosing stations ensure water

extended range of services for the GKF 720.

does not penetrate the machine room during cleaning. ‘Thanks to the reduced water consumption, the machine can be operated independently from the customer’s

after-sales service, Bosch offers an engineering pharmaceutical service for process optimisation where its experts share their

water system without a separate water

extensive product knowledge, for example in

connection,’ comments Kleine Koenig.

dosing difficult products. •

Integrated weight control The GKF 720 is designed for processing powders, pellets and tablets. For pellets and micro-dosed

In addition to operator training and proven

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

Bosch Packaging Technology – www.boschpackaging.com

MALE GROOMING

Beat the burn with Vital ET

Nasty razor bumps are common after shaving. Men can now overcome the redness and itching sensation of razor bumps with Vital ET from Ashland Vincience biofunctionals, thanks to its proven anti-erythemal and anti-inflammatory benefits.

ital ET is a new and unique bio-

The results of the clinical study showed

functional form of vitamin E. It is

a statistically significant decrease

the perfect choice for shaving

(improvement) in all four of the assessed

applications like an after-

parameters – burning, stinging, itching

shave balm, where its anti-inflammatory

and tightness – at week two and week four

benefits are complemented by its excellent

compared to mean baseline values.

Vital ET is easy to formulate into oil and

water based systems and is compatible with a broad range of raw materials. Vital ET and all other products in the Ashland Vincience biofunctionals range are available in South Africa from Millchem. •

Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – giulio@millchem.co.za

skin lubricity. To test the tissue rescue benefits of Vital ET

Natural yet potent

after shaving/mechanical stress, Ashland

This active ingredient is based on a

tested the active ingredient at five percent

complex of tocopheryl phosphate

in an after-shave balm. The clinical study

and disodium lauriminodiproprionate.

saw a group of male volunteers clinically

Tocopheryl phosphate is the most potent

graded on the face/neck, using a scale of

and natural form of vitamin E found in

zero to 10 on the following parameters: nick,

skin. These properties make it ideal for a

cuts and skin and follicle redness. Over a

range of formulations, such as products

period of four weeks, the volunteers applied

that prevent and alleviate sunburn and for

a cream with five percent of Vital ET each

acne, anti-ageing and protection against

time they shaved.

environmental stress.

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

MALE GROOMING

Could Salicylic Acid be the new skin saviour? Salicylic Acid is becoming the go to ingredient for men’s skin care products. Kim MacCallum from Vantage Specialty Chemicals discusses why this beta hydroxy acid is so awesome.

into the pore lining while alpha-hydroxy acids only treat the surface layer of the skin. This means its exfoliating activity occurs within the pore as well as on

much more in terms of pollutants, so their

the surface of the skin, helping to

skin gets more congested with clogged

clear congestion.

pores and formation of blackheads.

Curcylic 40 from Vantage Specialty

Because men don’t have time for

Chemicals is a patented form of

facials, it’s ideal to offer them an all in

Salicylic Acid, which is clear, safe,

one product.

water-stable, effective and meets

What is Salicylic Acid?

the requirement of the USP Salicylic Acid Gel Monograph. It is 40 percent

This ingredient is a beta hydroxy acid

complexed Salicylic Acid in its pure

keratolytic agent, which means it offers

form. This material is very well priced

deep cleansing and exfoliation of the

and can be added into a huge range

ost modern men don’t

skin. It breaks down the bond that keeps

of skin care and cleansing products

want to talk about skin

dead cells clinging together. If not

for men. •

issues, but open a men’s

broken down, this bond can clog pores,

magazine or browse a

leading to the formation of blackheads

website for men and you’ll see articles on

and whiteheads. The acid part of the

Salicylic Acid and its cleansing benefits.

molecule can dissolve some of the

In March 2018, Menshealth UK

together. It’s also been proven to have

and 40s who still get blemishes1. Why is

renewing properties, helping to firm the

this? The urban man is exposed to so

skin by promoting new cell turnover.

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

REFERENCE: 1. w ww.menshealth.com/grooming/a19576359/salicylic-acidacne-treatments-facial-cleansers

intercellular ‘glue’ that holds skin cells

published an article on men in their 30s

Salicylic Acid gives such a deep clean because it can penetrate deep

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

MALE GROOMING

Scents for the

experimental man

asculine scented hair, body

of years. In South Africa, we find men are

and shower products initially

becoming more experimental when it

needed to either smell sporty

comes to how their grooming products

with citrus and Fougere notes,

are fragranced. Men are looking for

spicy with woody musky tones or refreshing

sophistication, so fragrances need to be

with fresh green subtle spicy notes. Yet these

expressive, current and distinguished. The

days, fragrances should be tailored to suit

scent of a product needs to express a man’s

each product and its application.

personality, which often means a product

Beard care and shaving products should smell bold and masculine while face and

line needs to offer at least three differently scented variants per application category.

skin care products must smell fresh and cleansing and hair care products, sporty

Hot scents in 2018

and revitalising.

Fragrance trends for beard care and

The product range for men and evolution

shaving products include notes of tobacco

of fragrances for male grooming products

leaves, wood sap, clove buds, warm honey,

have mushroomed over the past couple

carrot seed, ouds, leather and powdery

leathers, dry amber, vanilla, tonka bean, pink pepper and modern spicy tones mixed with floral Bulgarian rose and oriental florals, which add a modern twist. Sweet orange, thyme, fennel and crushed green leaves, fig and cut green apples, fresh ginger, salty sea elements and subtle woody tones are very popular fragrances for face and skin care products, while hair care fragrance trends range from clean woody notes of sandalwood and cedar, crisp citrus and fresh juniper berries to white musk, grapefruit, ambergris and bold Fougere tones. Previously, most of these scent elements and combinations would not have been considered for use in male grooming products. 06 Agencies is not only focused on augmented experimentation with new scent blends, but also heavily invested in creating fragrances that emotionally connect the user to the specific product and its application. •

06 Agencies – adam@o6southfrica.com

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

MALE GROOMING

Gents get your groom on!

Once considered a niche market, Euromonitor International predicts the male grooming category will reach US$60.7 billion by 2020. This flourishing personal care segment presents immense opportunity to beauty brands, like Sorbet Man, to develop compelling and relevant products for male consumers.

DID YOU KNOW?

orbet Man has just introduced a new, affordable hair

According to GlobalData’s consumer grooming range for men research, 72 percent of millennial and a new male fragrance. males believe their looks and appearance Available at Sorbet Man stores and are important factors, while 61 percent of millennial men prefer to be unique and stand Clicks stores nationwide, the new out in a crowd. Millennial males seek freedom grooming range is designed to grab from the gender norms associated with the attention of the on-trend male. traditional notions of ‘masculinity’, so Each of the products in the hair they’re turning to the beauty industry grooming range are formulated with a for help to differentiate themselves. unique mixture of rice protein and amino acids aimed at strengthening hair strands. The products also include jojoba, baobab, apricot, coconut and sacha inchi oils, which lock in moisture and protect hair while defining the look. ‘Hair care is no longer reserved for ladies only,’ says Natalie Hesketh-Mare, chief executive of Sorbet Man. ‘A man who takes care of himself and the way he looks, emanates power, prestige and appeal. Our new grooming range adds spunk to the metro and alpha male regimes.’ A hair wax, ultra hold hair gel, forming hair cream, pomade and hair fibre completes the new range of hair products from Sorbet Man.

A masculine scent

HAIRFLUX

The subtle Sorbet Man eau de toilette fragrance, also available at Sorbet Man stores and Clicks stores

The extraordinary hair and scalp care revolution

nationwide, has timeless aromatic, woody notes, blended with a traditional fougère, citrus accord. The top notes are

We have designed the best in class active for the care of both hair and scalp. With the masterful combination of the well-known strength of Ceramides and the power of olives we created Hairflux® – bio-inspired, multifunctional and highly effective. • Reduces the inflammatory capacity • Improves the appearance of sensitive scalp • Repairs damages of bleached hair • Increases resistance of straightened hair

fresh and citrusy, layered over oak moss bottom notes. The signature scent is packaged in a 100mℓ bottle with a matte finish and promises to separate the men from the boys. Hesketh-Mare adds: ‘We wanted to bring South African gents something that gives them a presence, over and above their good looks and charm. A lot of care and research has gone into developing a fragrance that does exactly that.’ Sorbet Man eau de toilette forms part of the brand’s bespoke range of grooming products, designed with one goal in mind – ‘to give men that feeling’. With an

Evonik Africa (Pty) Ltd t +27 11 697 0700 IBG Business Park, Midrand, South Africa

impressive range of products encompassing hair, beard www.evonik.com

and skin care, Sorbet Man has been a leader in male grooming since 2013, with dedicated salons in Cape Town, Johannesburg, Pretoria and now Durban. •

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

MALE GROOMING

Four in one for men When developing formulations, Chemyunion advises the physiological and morphological differences of men’s skin should be taken into consideration. The company’s new multifunctional ingredient, 4Man, takes these factors and male consumer behaviour into account.

ypical characteristics of men’s skin include increased growth of facial and body hair and enhanced sebum production, which increases the chance of intrafollicular permeation and inflamed acne lesions.

Experts at ChemyUnion also believe men might be more

prone to allergic reactions and skin irritations as a result of

moisture by 46 percent when compared to a placebo. This level of moisturisation was maintained for 24 hours after a single application. Two hours after application, 4Man reduced skin’s oiliness by 31 percent

exposure to a wide range of ingredients in one product.

compared to a placebo and it continued to keep sebum production

As a result, minimalistic or multifunctional formulations are

under control for up to 24 hours after one application, avoiding the

an interesting strategy for male grooming new product

common rebound effect with this class of products. The active also

development, combined with ease of use and convenience.

increases skin firmness and elasticity by increasing the production of type

Natural and multifunctional, 4Man offers four beneficial

I collagen and elastin,

effects in a single active ingredient. It can handle excessively oily skin while reducing signs of ageing, promotes moisturising and has smoothing properties, which are attractive benefits for men. The active is composed of a synergetic combination

Chemgrit SA – www.chemgritsa.co.za ChemyUnion – www.chemyunion.com

promoting an antiageing action (see Figure 1). •

of hop, liquorice, red algae extract, Gallic rose, panthenol and menthol.

Proven benefits ChemyUnion’s 4Man, which can be sourced in South Africa from ChemyUnion, stimulates cell renewal by up to 59 percent, improving skin’s micro-relief appearance and its healing potential. Its smoothing property is substantiated by a 67 percent reduction in the TNF-alpha inflammatory mediator and, two hours after application, it increases skin’s superficial

Figure 1: Evaluation by immunofluorescence type-I anti-collagen and anti-elastin (green) and counterstain with DAPI (blue, nuclear tracer), in images magnified 400 times. Histological cuts of human skin (ex vivo) were incubated in culture medium (base line) and treated with product 4Man at one percent (w/w) or a placebo for 72 hours

Ex vivo Smoothing of wrinkles, improvement of the firmness and elasticity of the skin Human skin fragments treated with 1% 4MAN and incubated for 72 hours

P C Review | JUNE 2018 |

MATERIALS HANDLING & LOGISTICS

How to introduce automated storage solutions

Warehousing requires a number of delicate operations that need a careful approach if you are to store and retrieve goods effectively and efficiently. Solutions Selling reveals how the right storage products can increase your warehouse’s productivity.

here are many ways to get

there is no one-size-fits-all solution and each

warehousing right, but you need

has its advantages and disadvantages. So

to do it properly or you could find

be sure to conduct careful planning when

your warehouse draining your

selecting an approach for your business.

resources. Because of this, storage managers

pharmaceutical warehouses. A leader in

fits their needs and abilities. Here are some

pharma and healthcare logistics recently

storage management tips to

installed these units supplied by Solutions

help you get the most out of

Selling in its upgraded warehouse in Centurion,

your setup.

Gauteng, to increase its warehousing

Kardex Shuttle units are ideal for pharmaceutical warehouses

capacity. Part of the project aimed to create

Avoid clutter

a safer, faster and more efficient warehouse

A cluttered warehouse is

solution. The Shuttle XP Vertical Lift Module presented the perfect solution because it

next to impossible to keep organised and may even be considered unsafe for your

operators, equipment and stock. Keeping things tidy will make it relatively simple to find what you need in good time, which will drastically improve the efficiency of your storage system. The Kardex Shuttle XP Vertical Lift Module installed at a leading supplier of distributions solutions for the pharma and healthcare industries

Kardex Shuttle units are ideal for

understand they need a solution that best

Go for lean inventory

DID YOU KNOW?

offers an enclosed system of vertically arranged trays stored on both sides of the unit with an extractor

device placed in the centre. The Kardex Shuttle XP Vertical Lift Module is ideal for parts operations This automatically delivers managing various parts sizes. These trays with the stored items modules are the perfect systems for parts to the access opening at storage and order picking and can be the push of a button or scan combined with barcode scanners, of a barcode. The device conveyor systems, lifting devices and robotic technology to create a fully is modular in construction automated process within with the option to adjust its a warehouse. height and the number of access

There is more often than not, no need to stock far more than what’s needed,

openings pre and post construction. Depending on the ceiling height, at least

though this will depend on

85 percent of the floor space occupied

the industries you serve and

by a conventional storage system can

scale of your business. Take

be recovered.

care not to take on more

The Shuttle XP automatically scans every

than is absolutely necessary.

tray with the use of Optiflex technology, finding

This will not only free up

the ideal storage location within the system in

space for other products

increments of 25mm. Plus, items are stored in

and components, but also

the least possible amount of space.

protects you against losses or neglected products.

Optimise by keeping track Even the most well-oiled storage systems will

Adopt an industry specific approach

have internal errors, but these can be limited.

There are a number of

how it occurred, you will be able to plan more

storage solutions available

carefully and optimise your approach to

which are designed

storage to make it more effective, affordable

specifically to meet the needs

and efficient. •

By keeping careful records of each error and

of a given industry and its approach to warehousing and logistics. Remember

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

Solutions Selling – www.solutions123.co.za

MATERIALS HANDLING & LOGISTICS

Facility expansion

reveals unrivalled pharma supply chain resources Imperial Logistics has unveiled a world-class expansion at its Centurion facility in Gauteng. The upgrades include more state of the art, pharmaceutical compliant storage space and a new, faster picking methodology.

Various eco-friendly features were also implemented, including LED lighting that will achieve a monthly energy saving of about 30 percent.

Design challenges conquered One difficulty faced in the design of the

Imperial Logistics‘ revamped VNA warehouse has a height of 25.5m to the eaves

new VNA warehouse was to ensure the floor construction adhered to the strict requirements of international standards and authorities. This is to ensure the specialised materials handling equipment functions properly in the picking aisles. Another concern was the geotechnical restrictions throughout the entire site. Two cold storage warehouses were constructed during the expansion – one newly built and the other a refurbishment of the existing cold storage facility. ‘The design of these two facilities posed

s a leading healthcare supply chain company,

Imperial Logistics is perfectly

DID YOU KNOW?

numerous challenges. Since the average • storage of 30 000 pallets

More than 680t of structural steel was used in the construction of the 9 000m² VNA warehouse.

positioned to optimise its service to clients allowing it to get lifesaving medicines to the people of Africa

• a dispatch hall with 10 doors with dock levellers • a high-tech 8 000 parcels per hour shoe sortation system

• a 928m² bonded store with space available for 1 420 pallets.

faster and more cost-effectively. This is

Barton explains VNA is the term used

according to the company’s healthcare

to describe a warehouse design that

strategy executive, Dr Iain Barton.

consists of standard pallet racking or APR

The expansion project kicked off in

with picking aisles not more than two

August 2016, with the demolition of

metres wide and storage heights ranging

existing buildings to make space for the

from 13 to 19m.

redevelopment. ‘The main challenge the

Specialised materials handling

project team faced was Imperial Logistics

equipment is required to service each

had to stay operational 24/7, 365 days a

pallet location so Imperial Logistics

year throughout the entire project. Being

sourced VNA turret trucks from a leading

in the pharmaceutical industry, service

manufacturer based in Germany.

levels with existing clients had to be maintained,’ he stresses. Unwavering health and safety

‘It was imperative the design included spill containment in the event of a sprinkler system discharge, as well as

regulations were enforced in the areas

an HVAC system to ensure temperature

that remained operational and stock

levels within the warehouse remain

worth more than R1 billion had to

constant between 18 and 25 degrees

be protected.

Celsius,’ states Barton. The fire suppression and smoke

Efficient, safe and reliable design

extraction system to service the new VNA

One phase of the project consisted of the

a storage capacity of 775 000ℓ, 12 000

construction of a 9 000m² very narrow

sprinkler heads and smoke extraction

aisle (VNA) warehouse that caters for

fans capable of extracting 84m³ of smoke

the following:

per second from the building.

| JUNE 2018 | P C Review

warehouse includes water tanks with

temperature of a cold room is five degrees Celsius, advanced materials handling equipment had to be sourced to operate at these temperatures. A conventional fire prevention system could not be used as the water in the pipes could freeze. So, a dry pipe system was created. Product stored in these two zones includes rare vaccines, so a one-hour, fire rated enclosure was designed to surround and effectively protect the cold rooms.’

Room to grow Now that phase one of the Centurion build is complete, Imperial Logistics has moved its sister company, Pharmed on site creating a two tiered offering of distributor and wholesaler. Pharmed is a complete healthcare provider. It focuses on bringing reliable and effective solutions to independent healthcare professionals to benefit end patients. ‘Our business needed additional capacity following its diversification into the pharmaceutical wholesaling, medical devices and animal health markets. We now have room to grow, to expand and enhance the unrivalled healthcare capabilities that we deliver,’ Barton concludes. •

Imperial Logistics – www.imperiallogistics.co.za

SOUTH AFRICAN

June 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 6

www.pharmacos.co.za

Unilever leads global FMCG sustainabilityÂ journey

New bamboo based and transparent substrates for tubes

NEWS

Nip fake medicines in the bud A RECENT STUDY by the World Health Organization

Remember, counterfeit medicines are intentionally

this scourge and putting initiatives in place at facilities

indicates ‘fake drugs’ come in a range of forms. There

created to resemble authentic products. A box, tube or

to secure product lines. Turn to page 44 for insight into

are the substandard medicines, which wouldn’t pass

pill can look like the real thing.

different technologies available to the market and reduce

quality tests owing to a manufacturing error or because

Substandard and counterfeit anti-malarial

they have already passed their expiry date. The second

drugs alone contribute to approximately 72 000 to

type is counterfeit drugs. Deliberately falsified, they

267 000 deaths in sub-Saharan Africa each year.

could contain entirely different chemicals than the

Counterfeiters are becoming better at replicating

original or have no medical properties at all.

entry of fake products into the supply chain. Protect your profit margins and reputation! Until next month

products, and governments are struggling to crack

Counterfeit medicines have penetrated both the generic and originator drug markets.

down on this lucrative industry. It is therefore the duty of

Assistant Editor

manufacturers and packagers to play a part in curbing

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

Label for prefilled syringes provides prick protection PFIZER HAS SELECTED Schreiner MediPharm’s Needle-Trap label for its epoetin biosimilar prefilled syringes. This is the first medication developed to treat anaemia that has been launched with Needle-Trap, initially in Germany and Austria, and later rolled out in the wider European market. Pharma giant Pfizer develops innovative medicines, vaccines and over the counter products. The company needed a reliable solution to protect healthcare personnel from needle stick injuries when administering the epoetin biosimilar injection. Since 2009, Schreiner MediPharm’s Needle-Trap technology has been used successfully by Pfizer on millions of syringes for a heparin drug. Needle-Trap features a unique design, which is easily integrated into existing pharma manufacturing processes. The plastic needle trap is an integral component of the label for prefilled syringes. With a simple and irreversible trigger, Needle-Trap serves to secure the needle after injecting, protecting the healthcare professional. It doesn’t require any changes to the injection technique as the needle protection is integrated into the syringe label. No adaptations are needed to the secondary packaging and it uses minimal space during

MARCHESINI TAKES BEAUTY PACKAGING TO DUBAI BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST 2018, which took place from 15 to 17 April, marked the Marchesini Group’s debut at the expo. The group maximised its presence by demonstrating how the packaging process for cosmetics and personal care products has become an important part of its business. Today, the Marchesini Group caters for the entire packaging process of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, from start to finish. Represented in South Africa by MGSA Consulting, the group creates stand-alone machines and complete lines to package products such as vials, syringes, capsules, bottles and blisters through to bundling, casing and palletising equipment. Beautyworld Middle East has played a vital role in

shipping, storage and disposal.

the growth of the cosmetics industry in the region, with a solid representation of global products and brands.

Schreiner MediPharm’s Needle-Trap label technology

The beauty industry is booming in the UAE, which is now the fastest growing market for beauty products

TWO PROMINENT PACKAGING COMPANIES MERGE NOVIO PACKAGING GROUP has joined forces

‘The values of Scandinavian Packaging:

with Scandinavian Packaging to create Novio

quality; reliability and understanding, will without

Scandinavia, effective since 1 June.

a doubt strengthen our brand,’ he adds.

Novio Packaging Group consists of international

Scandinavian Packaging will continue to

packaging distribution companies Oosterbeek

develop its business from Borup, Denmark under

Packaging, Alpha Packaging International, Maer

the management of Hanne Zinck and Bjarke Arlø,

Flexibles, Maer Hong Kong and FehnPolycap.

with no plans for staff changes.

The company is using the merger to expand its

Another director of Novio Packaging Group,

distribution channels into Scandinavia. The move

Erik Trum says the various business components

will also broaden the range of services and products

are joining forces where product development,

on offer, particularly in pharma packaging.

quality assurance and sustainability

‘Now that our territorial range also includes Scandinavia, we will be able to achieve even better

are concerned. ‘At the end of the day, this broad package of

coverage,’ says Novio Packaging Group director,

services combined with international coverage

Marck Jansen.

and the quality of service expected from us

He says the merger will increase the international efficiency and buying power of both parties.

| JUNE 2018 | Packaging Review

will be delivered with added value to all our customers worldwide,’ Jansen concludes.

globally. The growing global preference for quality and affordable beauty products has also taken root in the Middle East. According to Euromonitor International, consumers in the UAE spend US$247 per capita on cosmetics and personal care products, which is more than any other country in the Middle East and ninth worldwide. This spending is forecast to grow to US$294 by 2020, driven by increasing demand from the youth population, more working women and the adoption of Western culture. Lifestyle changes and the growing beauty salon market are also contributing to the proliferation of the industry. Products on display at the Beautyworld event

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

INDUSTRY TALK

Be part of the journey to a

circular economy

One year after Unilever committed to ensuring 100 percent of its plastic packaging was fully reusable, recyclable or compostable by 2025, 10 other companies have made similar pledges. Aarifah Nosarka talks to Eddie Van Os, packaging development director for Africa at Unilever SA, about the multinational’s progressive move to address packaging waste. WHAT IS UNILEVER DOING TO ACCELERATE THE INDUSTRY’S PROGRESS TOWARD A CIRCULAR ECONOMY?

out ambitious targets that we aspire

for your business and the planet. A year

to reach by 2020. The USLP has three

after the commitement was made,

big goals, supported by commitments

more companies, including leading

and targets grouped across nine

brands, retailers and packaging

industry directly and through industry associations.

companies, made similar pledges.

pillars, which span our

We are engaging with the Eddie Van

social, economic

This is one of many examples of the

and environmental

industry buy-in.

Unilever is also working with

performance across the

producer responsibility

value chain. Reaching

organisations (PROs). We

all set targets will

like to think of ourselves

be an incredible

as a catalyst to get other

milestone.

FMCG companies to follow

With regard

suit. For example, we were

to packaging,

one of the first brand

our initial target

owner’s to implement

was to reduce

r-PET and r-HDPE in some

the weight of our

support from industry. He urged

DID YOU KNOW?

more companies to come forward to accelerate the progress towards a circular

Unilever South Africa sources its raw materials for packaging locally.

packaging by one third

of our big brands such as

Unilever’s CEO, Paul Polman welcomed the news of additional

economy and address plastic leakage into the world’s natural systems including waterways and oceans.

Sunlight Dishwash, Organics shampoo

by 2020. Since then we have added

and Knorr Salad Dressing. Although we

two more commitments to our USLP

don’t make on-pack claims, we do share

waste ambitions. Firstly, to increase

our knowledge and learnings with industry

the recycled plastic content in our

bodies such as the PROs, Plastics|SA and

packaging to 25 percent; secondly, to

WHAT IS REQUIRED OF THE FMCG INDUSTRY TO CREATE SYSTEMIC CHANGE AND ACCELERATE THE TRANSITION TO A CIRCULAR ECONOMY?

PackagingSA.

design plastic packaging to be fully

Companies should invest in innovation

reusable, recyclable or compostable.

to foster new delivery models that

WILL THE COMPANY REACH ITS GOALS AND WHAT MILESTONES HAVE BEEN ACHIEVED SO FAR?

These goals are to be achieved by

promote reuse. They should also

2025. Unilever South Africa is well on

commit to 100 percent reusable,

track to accomplishing these targets

recyclable or compostable packaging

When the Unilever Sustainable Living

before the deadline. Each of our

by 2025 and set stretching targets for

Plan (USLP) was launched in 2010, it set

categories have roadmaps in place

using post-consumer recycled content.

Eco-friendlier options

and milestones on how and when

Engaging positively in policy

these targets will be achieved.

discussions with government on much-needed waste

packaging is made from post-

HAS THE USLP PLACED PRESSURE ON BIG BRANDS TO FOLLOW SUIT?

consumer recyclate. Organics

It has shown other

responsibility schemes

shampoo and conditioner bottles contain

corporates that

is necessary too. •

50 percent rHDPE, Radox bottles

placing sustainability

are made up of 50 percent rPET while

at the core of

Tresemmé and Lux bottles contain

your strategy

25 percent rHDPE.

can yield

Some of Unilever’s personal care

positive results

| JUNE 2018 | Packaging Review

management infrastructure improvements, including the implementation of extended producer

SECURITY FEATURES

Are you invested in the PROTECTION

OF PHARMA PRODUCTS? You can stay ahead of counterfeiters by taking charge of your drug distribution, looking out for tell-tale signs of bogus labels and implementing security measures to protect, track and securely package your products. This is how to save your brand and bottom line. By Aarifah Nosarka

serialise and group any type of box and carton not only for the pharma industry, but also cosmetics. Boxes are grouped at a production rate of 120 cartons and four cases per minute. Davis says another innovative machine is the BL A525 CW labeller. This machine belongs to the extensive BL A range of versatile and reliable carton tracking and labelling machines. The BL A525 CW can be installed in

y applying multiple authentication

and 2.3m in width and does away with

line with the new Integra 520 V and

measures to your products, you’re

manual operations, making it more

its cartoner Cinqucento. It is a high

taking a stand against anti-

user friendly.’

tech machine capable of weighing,

counterfeiting and playing an important

Its versatility is owing to the option of

serialising and labelling cartons and

role in driving down the scourge of fake

mounting tamper evident heads. This

provides a unique identity to each. The

medicine, which is expected to grow at

is to apply self-adhesive tamperproof

load cell is fully integrated into the step

20 percent annually.

labels on each closure flap of

conveyance system on the BL A525 CW.

the carton.

It is able to weigh individual cartons at

Track Pack from Marchesini is a new all in one solution for serialisation, tamper evident and aggregation needs. The South African agent for Marchesini,

This monobloc has the same conveyor