MARCH 2022 Volume 49 | Number 3
49
years www.pharmacos.co.za
Creating feelings through
A World of Scents in collaboration with
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING Wrapsa increases production capacity in three areas
PACKAGING: LABELLING RFID creates new markets for label converters
CLEAN BEAUTY Position your next launch on ‘hero ingredients’
Personal Care EMEA
Serving all Personal Care Markets As the global market leader in chemical and ingredients distribution, Brenntag continuously aligns with premier specialty ingredient suppliers. We are passionate about providing the best possible and most current product offerings to our personal care ingredient customers. Our Personal Care team can leverage the full range of our global supply chain and product range to devise the perfect solution to your business challenges.
Contact: Kreason Gopalan Business Manager - Pharma & Personal Care Email: Kreason.Gopalan@Brenntag.co.za Unit 2, Ext 149. Elgin Street, Pomona, Kempton Park Johannesburg 1619 +27 (0)10 020 91 00
March 2022
Contents
49 years
Volume 49 | Number 3 www.pharmacos.co.za
36 Student Focus
15
Coschem cosmetic science training/P&C Review essay prize winner
40 Association News Highlights of the Coschem students’ prize giving dinner
10 6 News Robyn Brown launches The Personal Care Coach and Training Company
22 14 Packaging: Labelling How to succeed in sustainable OTC medicines labelling?
New superfood ingredients: RonaCare Baobab and RonaCare Hibiscus
RFID creates new markets for label converters
8 Fragrances
Siyakha introduces advanced inspection technology
Fragrance Science establishes a distribution agreement with IMCD Parfumsplus explores the pandemic’s impact on perfumery Robertet Group welcomes Jérôme Bruhat as deputy CEO
AGM emphasises an exciting future for Coschem
Amplified packaging to connect to your target market
22 Contract Manufacturing Wrapsa increases production capacity in three areas Globepak leads in sports nutrition product development
27 Clean Beauty Advanced delivery systems from Berg+Schmidt Aprinnova helps formulators to define ‘hero ingredients’
8
30 Pharma Focus: Excipients Ashland polymers to improve stability and patient satisfaction Omyaforte 100 – a highly bioavailable source of calcium BASF’s all-in-one tableting solution, Kollitab DC 87 L
On the cover IMCD and Fragrance Science embark on a ‘scentsational’ collaboration
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MARCH 2022
3
FROM THE EDITOR
The team EDITORIAL
A wave of fragrance innovation hits local shores
T
he way consumers explore fragrance has changed completely. The wellness trend, driven by pandemic life, kicked into higher gear studies on how scent impacts human health. As the pandemic evolved, consumers invested more in themselves, with fragrances and scented candles growing in popularity. They also turned to fragrance for a form of escape and most recently, fragrance has been highlighted for its mental wellbeing and emotional health benefits. Considering the scope of opportunity emerging from these fragrance industry trends, the IMCD Group recently established an agreement with Fragrance Science to distribute its scent technologies and perfumery ingredients in South Africa. The partnership will see the passion, creativity and technology of the Barcelona-based company made available to local brands and manufacturers, from a centralised and reliable source that is IMCD. To celebrate this exciting collaboration, IMCD and Fragrance Science are featured on our March cover, and on page 8, you can find out more about what Fragrance Science has to offer. Labelling is the central theme in this month’s packaging feature. The label on a product helps to protect, inform and secure, and it can positively impact the sustainability of the packaging. Whether your products are packaged in glass, plastic or cardboard, UPM Raflatac can help you to find the right labelling material to elevate
the overall sustainability of your brand’s packaging. Turn to page 14 to find out how. More top reads in this edition include Wrapsa’s capacity enhancements in three areas to produce lozenges, pastilles and effervescents (on page 22) and Aprinnova’s take on hero ingredients in terms of what makes them special and how can brands position their next product launch on them (on page 28). We’re also excited to bring you the essay that won this year’s Coschem cosmetic science training/P&C Review essay prize. Written by Emma Tiffin of African Extracts Rooibos Skin Care, a shortened version of the essay on the clean beauty movement is published in the student focus on page 36. Sticking with news coming from Coschem, this month’s association news section is jam-packed with the society’s content. On 7 February, Coschem honoured its 2021 students who have completed Modules 1 and 2 of their Coschem cosmetic science training, and on 10 February the society hosted its AGM. Turn to page 40 to check out the reviews on both these events.
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
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CONTRIBUTORS: Thorsten Cech, Sithembiso Dlalisa, Emma Tiffin
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NEWS
New entrant to develop and support
cosmetic and skin care entrepreneurs The Personal Care Coach and Training Company is a new venture by
well-known industry expert Robyn Brown, who through her work in the industry, identified the need for a venture that is focused on developing and supporting emerging small cosmetics and skin care businesses. Brown describes the Personal Care Coach and Training Company as a one-stop shop for aspiring skin care and cosmetic entrepreneurs and businesses. There are two sides to the company: 1. to supply ingredients and raw materials 2. to provide advice and accredited training. “The concept is to provide support to small- and medium-size enterprises that want access to the same quality cosmetic actives, ingredients and raw materials as their larger counterparts,” says Brown. The Personal Care Coach focuses on supplying these ingredients in smaller pack sizes that are affordable and accessible to start-ups and SMMEs who do not require large quantities. The company is also planning to create ‘kits’ for popular skin care and personal care products for those who do not have experience in formulating. The other side of the company is to provide information and advice on the basic principles of formulation and skin care production to industry newcomers with a view to launching certified training courses for compounders, formulators and entrepreneurs. Cosmetics industry expert, Robyn Brown
“Over the years, through my work and interaction with entrepreneurs, I have seen firsthand the need within the cosmetic industry
for an accredited course that will provide new and existing role players with the opportunity to learn how to make cosmetics,” she explains. The training courses will offer compounders, formulators and industry entrepreneurs, who either do not have any other cosmetic and toiletry training or do not qualify for other courses currently available, the opportunity to improve their skills and get an accredited qualification. The courses will cover the basics of formulation; what equipment to use and how to use it. The Personal Care Coach and Training Company expects to be up and running by the end of March. For more information, please send Robyn Brown a message on WhatsApp on 084 599 0063.
Innovative ingredients inspired by superfoods Merck has introduced two new cosmetic ingredients: RonaCare® Baobab and RonaCare® Hibiscus. These two products are developed from nutrient-rich superfoods – the baobab fruit and the hibiscus flower, whose effects can also be beneficial for the skin. The botanical extracts are ethically sourced, sustainable and suitable for the use within a wide range of topical products, from daily skin care to dermocosmetics. RonaCare Baobab provides strong protection of skin matrix components, especially elastin and collagens and reduces skin irritation. RonaCare Hibiscus minimises skin irritation, supports the care of sensitive skin, shields from oxidative stress, protects collagens from degradation and increases skin cells’ vitality. “Superfoods are well known for their numerous benefits and their success among consumers is now extending to skin care,” explains Wiebke Dondras, head of cosmetics surface solutions at Merck. “Our superfood extracts are specially formulated to preserve the beauty and youthfulness of the skin. These powerful ingredients are true assets for the skin and support well-being in a permanently changing environment.” RonaCare Baobab and RonaCare Hibiscus are Halal certified, vegan and stem from 100% natural origin. They also fulfil the COSMOS-standard, which defines the requirements and definitions for organic and/or natural cosmetics. The products fit into the range of botanical- and marine-derived cosmetic actives that Merck’s Surface Solutions business unit will launch in the next few months. This development supports the company’s strategic approach to strengthen its business and that of its customers with sustainable products.
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DIARY
What’s on in 2022 April in-cosmetics Global 5 to 7 April Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global SAPHEX 6 to 7 April Joburg, South Africa www.saphex.co.za Labelexpo Europe 26 to 29 April Brussels Expo, Belgium www.labelexpo-europe.com
May Propak East Africa 10 to 12 May Nairobi, Kenya www.propakeastafrica.com Vitafoods Europe 10 to 12 May Geneva, Switzerland www.vitafoods.eu.com Coschem Golf Day 16 May Zwartkops Country Club, Pretoria, SA www.coschem.co.za
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FRAGRANCES
IMCD and Fragrance Science embark
on a ‘scentsational’ collaboration In 2021, Fragrance Science established a contract with the IMCD Group for the distribution of its fragrances in South Africa, in various industrial segments. The partnership brings a personalised customer-centric approach, honest and open communication and the capability to provide flexible solutions for evolving fragrance challenges and to meet the specific needs of the local market.
F
ragrance Science has been “creating feelings through a world of scent” since 2004. The international fragrance
manufacturer is based in Barcelona, Spain, where it specialises in the creation, development and production of fragrance solutions. Its solutions are used in a wide range of segments and categories worldwide, including fine fragrances, home care, laundry/ fabric care, air care and personal care. Approximately 95% of its business is exported, mainly to non-EU countries. Fragrance Science works with a global network of specialised distributors and agents. “In everything we do, we apply our core values of passion, creativity and technology,” the team comments. “Our goal is to maintain the perfect balance between creative development and technology.”
SCIENCE AND SMELL For a long time, science paid very little attention to the most mystical and emotional of human senses – smell. Yet, the sense of smell is becoming more and more important. Catapulted by the pandemic, the loss of/inability to smell (known as anosmia) was pinpointed as a symptom of coronavirus. Interestingly, people have been unaware of the
Did you know? The way we associate (and prefer) scents is down to culture and experiences. Powdery, floral and sweet scents are intended for women, and aromatic woody scents for men. But this is shifting. Generally speaking, all perfumes are unisex. Lately there are more gourmand and floral notes in men’s perfumes while many women wear fragrances that are classified as masculine – and that is okay.
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A smelling session hosted by the Fragrance Science team
importance of smell, until they lost the sense, which leaved them terrified. At the beginning of the pandemic perfumes and cosmetics were the hardest-hit categories with plummeting sales. During lockdowns consumers saw little to no need to apply perfumes (or makeup). Instead, consumers prioritised cleanliness and hygiene, and as these concerns rose, so did safety fears. As the pandemic evolved, consumers started to invest more in themselves, mainly due to video conferences and virtual meetings while working from home. Home fragrances and scented candles grew in popularity. Research from NPD showed that 89% of consumers reported to use home scents in 2021. Comfort also became a top priority, as well as the need to escape. Consumers around the globe started to crave travel and exploration, discovering new cultures and making new memories from the comfort of their homes. Instead of a way to seduce and attract, consumers began using fragrances as a form of self-care and way of feeling good. Being
attractive lies in confidence and uniqueness, and fragrance can help to achieve this.
SCENT-CENTRIC WELLNESS TREND Despite the uncertainty, the pandemic didn’t discourage consumers’ interest in fragrance. Over the past two years, Fragrance Science saw major increases in the scent-centric wellness trend, mainly driven by consumers who were looking for products and fragrances designed to deliver stress relief. Fragrances with a clean, almost antiseptic aroma provided consumers with a sense of peace of mind and safety as the pandemic progressed. Consumers turned to softer, neutral, light fragrances, or to the traditional old-faithful fragrances. Especially in times of uncertainty consumers look for comforting fragrances that trigger nostalgic, happy and relaxed feelings. For many of us the most comforting feelings come from traditional scents and those familiar to us since childhood, which have always made us feel safe, at peace and at home. Although these scents differ from one person to the next, there are some that
FRAGRANCES
transcend regions and cultures. One example is clean fragrance concepts, which evoke the sensation of freshly washed linen, baked goods or coffee brewing. Lavender, vanilla and green herbal notes are also universal scents.
SCENTS TO STRENGTHEN MENTAL HEALTH During the pandemic, clean, soft, musky and enveloping scents were in continuous circulation as well as gourmand sweet notes and creamy desert-like scents. This is because consumers turn to these scents when needing reassurance or wanting to feel good. While looking good is essential to many consumers, considerations of longer-term physical, mental and emotional health benefits of fragrances are becoming equally important. As stress is increasingly recognised as a health concern, the emphasis is on brands and organisations to help consumers deal with the root causes. The Fragrance Science team explains: “We have seen a growing interest in essential oils and mood-boosting or aromatherapy concepts with relaxing notes like lavender, ylang-ylang and sandalwood. Energising and invigorating notes such as citrus, spice and turmeric have also become popular.” The beauty and cleaning routine has also been elevated to a more sensorial and pleasurable experience. In this instance, consumers are encouraged to relax, put their senses at ease and enjoy the moment. The whole concept of self-care has been extended to total relaxation or simply doing nothing, as people make more mindful decisions about what to do with their time. As a result, consumers will continue to be drawn to scents that strengthen their mental health.
AROMAS MEETING THE NEED TO ESCAPE Pre-pandemic we already saw the escapism trend, with experiences favoured over possessions. “We saw a focus on older traditions and celebrations that are centred on heritage and nostalgia,” the team says, adding that “the pandemic increased consumers’ need for escapism. We saw lots of happy solar, bright, fresh and fruity notes used in products. These remind us of our favourite destinations from the past or the present. The more enveloping notes, from floral and fruity to gourmand, are reminiscent of places we cannot go to physically.”
The Roxane robot in the Fragrance Science laboratory
More recently this trend has translated into natural, aromatherapeutic ingredients inspired by the earth and mother nature. These scents, such as the smell of recognisable outdoor elements like tomato, fresh-cut mint, spring grass, the ocean, forests, fir balsam, grounding cedarwood and even dirt, are designed to bring consumers closer to nature.
THE IMPORTANT ROLE OF TECHNOLOGY Creating fresh, lasting fragrance is the goal of every brand. Developing a technology that delivers a full, fresh fragrance in a range of scenarios and for anything from 24 hours to weeks on end demands the ultimate in creative and scientific thinking.
"Fragrance Science offers a wide variety of fragrance technologies designed to maximise the olfactive experience" Fragrance Science offers a wide variety of fragrance technologies designed to maximise the olfactive experience. Through encapsulation, odour control, blooming, scented plastics, or headspace that capture the most beautiful smells from nature and bring them into our lives without destroying the source. “We use fragrances daily to scent ourselves and our home. They affect our emotions,
moods and relationships. Fragrance use has become multi-purpose,” the team comments. Indulge, feel, escape, cocoon, energise, or relax – as you wish. Or “scent-design” yourself and your home as you wish. With Fragrance Science, brands can create feelings through a world of scents. Readers are invited to discuss their next fragrance challenge with the Fragrance Science team. •
A SNAPSHOT OF FRAGRANCE SCIENCE’S MILESTONES The history of Fragrance Science is marked by various highlights, all indicating growth. 2019: The inauguration of Roxane robots in the Fragrance Science laboratory and production plant considerably improved the company’s traceability, productivity and accuracy. 2020: Fragrance Science invested in a 1 000m2 laboratory plant with an increased number of technical facilities and staff. 2021: The ongoing expansion and growing demand for fragrance ingredients resulted in the opening of a fourth site for Fragrance Science. This same year, the company increased exports from 26 to 32 countries.
Fragrance Science – www.fragrancescience.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com
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FRAGRANCES
The impact of the pandemic on the world of perfume The global health crisis has awakened our instinctive need to enjoy life and make the most of every minute. We’ve become more aware of how important it is to sense and feel things, and (re)discovered that our sense of smell is vital! In this article, Parfumsplus explores how the pandemic has impacted consumers’ choice of perfumes.
D
uring this difficult time, we tend to seek a direct link with nature to (re) connect and find calmness, serenity and inner peace. Perfume makers have been quick to understand the shift, adding a touch of naturalness to their fragrance formulas. Rose notes have become fresher and more vegetal, like raindrops on petals. Jo Malone’s new creation, Rose Blush Cologne conveys all the charm of roses in full bloom.
The mouth-watering appeal of lush red berries comes across in scents like Very Good Girl by Carolina Herrera, springing from touches of tropical litchi and bold redcurrant in the head notes. Last but not least, pears and other green fruits have become juicier and crisper to convey even more naturalness. In the new Eau de Toilette Her by Burberry, blooming peonies naturally combine with notes of green pear.
ROSE, MY LOVE Considered by perfumers as the queen of flowers, the rose never ceases to inspire and surprise them – as revealed in some of the latest fragrance creations. Diptyque pays tribute to the entire flower in Eau Rose, which is composed similar to an infusion of the finest Damask and Centifolia roses.
"The pandemic has reinforced the personal pleasure of wearing perfume to feel good" The new fragrance Mémoire de Roses by l’Artisan Parfumeur features lush, joyous rose dressed up with mandarin, bergamot and a veil of cotton musk.
COMFORTING INDULGENCE Generous bouquets with lavish undertones provide sensations of the pleasure and comfort we all crave. The new version of Yes I am Delicious by Cacharel is even more addictive than its predecessors thanks to its cocoa cremoso accord (marrying notes of cocoa, hazelnut and green mandarin). Yet the super-lavish notes that dominated perfume during the previous decade have mostly been toned down, becoming lighter and less sweet. Now they tend to be more voluptuous and brighter, like Nina Soleil by Nina Ricci, where citrus melts into the intensity of gardenia and vanilla whipped cream notes.
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FRAGRANCES
ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE
Jo Loves, the beauty brand of British fragrance icon Jo Malone, has developed a sustainable packaging alternative for its Fragrance Paintbrush. Users can now purchase refillable cartridges carrying the fragranced gel for their on-the-go scent applicator
Refillable bottles are the new must-have. Most of the perfumes launched since the start of 2022 can be refilled, whatever their size. As Giorgio Armani puts it, “Recharge your precious perfume with an innovative gesture: open, recharge, start again.” What’s more, in response to current calls for transparency, brands are increasingly using natural raw materials, often involving fair trade partnerships. An example is Lancôme’s proclaimed commitment to take an environmentally responsible approach to preserve the earth for future generations. The Idôle Aura fragrance contains Madagascan Bourbon Vanilla and Turkish Isparta Rose, both from sustainable fairtrade supply chains.
INTIMATE, AUTHENTIC FRAGRANCES The pandemic has also reinforced the personal pleasure of wearing perfume to feel good. The range of intimate perfumes combine delicacy with emotion, like Musc Outreblanc from Guerlain’s collection L'Art et La Matière, which is a musky fragrance with an immaculate floral heart.
PURSE SIZE VOGUE Travel size sprays, mini roll-ons and perfume sticks to carry in your handbag – these practical small formats mean you can pop on some perfume whenever and wherever you want. They’re also less expensive, making them ideal for a lovely gift at a reasonable price. In
fact, many are added-value sales, with the large bottle remaining on the dressing table or in the bathroom cabinet. Brands have picked up on the trend and proved highly inventive with some attractive new formats, like Miss Dior Eau de Parfum, which comes in a travelfriendly roller-pearl. The delicate roll-on pearl at the top of the bottle accurately delivers the refreshing floral scent on your skin.
SEARCH FOR SINCERITY To sum up, during this very unusual period, the call of nature, a desire to reconnect with ourselves and find comfort, and the strong need for lightness and sincerity will undoubtedly influence upcoming fragrances. • Parfumsplus – www.parfumsplus.com
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FRAGRANCES
Robertet Group welcomes Jérôme Bruhat as deputy CEO Robertet, a supplier of fragrances and flavours, integrates all stages of the creative process to bring the world sustainable, organic raw materials. The group recently appointed a new deputy chief executive officer who will go on to become CEO, following Robertet’s general assembly in June.
I
n February, the Robertet Group welcomed Jérôme Bruhat as deputy chief executive officer. The appointment is significant in the evolution of the group’s governance and comes after a very good year in 2021. It is also a sign of vigorous growth and the strength of its activities. In a turbulent global economic context, the group has been able to assert its leadership position in all its natural product ranges, guaranteeing its
Jérôme Bruhat, currently deputy CEO, will assume the role of CEO following Robertet’s general assembly in June
independence. This coincides with ensuring that the ambitious lines of development established by Robertet in terms of social and environmental responsibility are upheld.
THREE DECADES OF GLOBAL EXPERIENCE Bruhat’s arrival on the general management team is the result of a selection process carried out in 2021. It comes in the framework of the dissociation of the functions of its chairman and chief executive officer, Philippe Maubert, which will take effect following the general assembly in June. Maubert will then assume the role of non-executive chairman of the group and Bruhat that of chief executive officer.
He joins the Robertet Group after more than three decades with the L’Oréal Group. Aged 54, Bruhat was president of the L’Oréal Group in Japan since 2015. He began his career in 1991 as product manager in the public products division in France, before moving onto general management positions in Belgium, Germany, Japan and the United States. Among other positions, he was global brand director of Maybelline New York and president of L’Oréal Germany. • Robertet – www.robertet.com
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
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2017/03/02 11:50 AM
PACKAGING: LABELLING
How to succeed in sustainable OTC medicines labelling? The choice of label material plays a major role in pharmaceutical packaging. The label on the product helps to protect, inform and secure, and it can positively impact the sustainability of the packaging. In an increasingly competitive over-the-counter market, choosing a value-adding sustainable label has become more important than ever. In this article, we’ll guide you to find ways to elevate the sustainability of your products by finding the right labelling material to match the packaging.
O
ver-the-counter (OTC) medication consists of prescription-free drugs, such as pain killers, cough syrups and allergy or fever medication. The consumer can purchase these drugs independently and self-administer those for easily self-diagnosed minor conditions. While the packaging for OTC medication must be safe and follow the same stringent regulations as prescription medicines, certain factors differentiate the two and affect the packaging choices: 1. Unlike prescription drugs, OTC products are widely accessible in multiple sales channels such as pharmacies and grocery retailers and online stores. 2. The consumer makes the purchase decision which means that high brand appeal and standing out on the store shelf is more important compared to prescription medicine.
ENSURING PRODUCT SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE WITH PHARMA LABELS Although OTC products are subject to similar packaging regulations and labelling requirements as prescription
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medicines, they are often more costcompetitive which may encourage the use of non-pharmaceutical labelling materials. It can pose some risks: • non-pharmaceutical labelling materials have not been pretested to perform with specific container types, substrates and conditions. • they do not have change management notification service to ensure that the material and its performance remain at the same level as originally qualified • they might not offer the required features, such as migration safety or documentation to meet patient safety regulations. “To tackle these issues, a shift to pharmaceutical, OTC dedicated labelling materials is the answer,” says Lottie Andersson, business development manager, pharma, EMEIA, UPM Raflatac. “Not only do pharmaceutical labels solve the mentioned risks, but they come with even more benefits. The labels are robust and have been pre-tested to endure specific storage, handling and transportation conditions and
their performance remains stable, with carefully controlled change management processes.”
ELEVATING THE SUSTAINABILITY OF OTC MEDICINE PACKAGES In addition to the factors that revolve around product safety and performance, sustainability is becoming more important in decision-making for pharmaceutical packaging design. Many companies operating in the
PACKAGING: LABELLING
" The packaging is the best marketing tool for OTC products and sustainability can be one the main differentiators" pharmaceutical value chain have set company-specific sustainability targets to mitigate the environmental impacts of their operations. The targets often revolve around reduce, recycle, renew and reuse. Making sustainable packaging choices in the OTC medicines market not only requires considering which sustainable goals to achieve, but also ensuring the packaging provides protection to the medicine and meets regulatory requirements to guarantee patient safety. Consumers have also become more sustainability oriented. One way to succeed in a more competitive market situation is to address ecoconscious consumers directly by redesigning packaging to deliver a message of sustainability. “The packaging is the best marketing tool for OTC products and sustainability can be one the main differentiators,” says Anniina Kujala, product manager, pharma, EMEIA, UPM Raflatac. “Consumers want minimal, resource-optimised packaging, but it should also be protective and at the same time made from renewable or recycled content and allow for recycling, with clear instructions on the package.”
MATCHING THE LABEL WITH THE PACKAGING It is important to note that the packaging material impacts the choice of label. To enhance the packaging sustainability to the maximum, the two must match. “Whether you have a glass, plastic or cardboard packaging, we can help you to find the right labelling material to elevate the overall sustainability of the packaging,” Kujala explains. Glass containers can typically be recycled with any self-adhesive label. If the bottle is reused as it is, and only washed before refilling, a wash-off adhesive is the way to go. Outside of wash-off, UPM Raflatac Pharmacoat NXT+ OTC-FSC / RPCH / HG65-FSC
label material is especially suitable for glass bottles and supports reaching sustainability goals by taking positive climate action. Read more about UPM Raflatac RAFNXT+ products. PP and PE plastic packaging can be matched with compatible plastic labels. UPM Raflatac wood-based plastic label Forest PP White TC 60 / RPMD / HDSFSC is a great fit for plastic PP and PE bottles in combination with migration safety and reduced carbon emissions as fossil materials are replaced with renewables. Learn more about UPM Raflatac Forest Film products. For PET plastic packaging, as it is often subjected to hot-washing when recycled, the best choice is a paper or plastic label combined with wash-off adhesive. For example, UPM Raflatac Pharmagloss-FSC / RP45 AT / WG65-FSC label material fits PET well. When it comes to cardboard packaging, tamper-evident paper seal labels are recommended. Paper recycling is an established process that can deal with both plastic and paper labels, but paper labels typically increase the yield of the recyclate and are thus preferred. UPM Raflatac Translucent White-FSC / RP62 EU / WG65-FSC is a pre-tested renewable seal label solution designed for all market-leading cardboard substrates.
Being a paper with transparent feature it enables you to reduce carbon emissions as fossil film materials can be replaced with renewables. Security seals reveal whether a product has been tampered and helps patients know if a product is authentic.
KEY TAKEAWAYS We hope that after reading this article, you will remember that: • the chosen label must perform with the specific container type, substrate and conditions • you mitigate risks by using OTCdedicated labelling materials • shelf appeal can be improved with the right label material • you can support packaging sustainability by choosing compatible labelling solutions. • most importantly, let the label material help you reach your sustainability goals. Get your pharmaceutical labelling right with UPM Raflatac. •
Click here to download UPM Raflatac’s pharmaceutical and healthcare label material selection guide Listen to UPM Raflatac’s webinar recording: Elevate the sustainability of OTC medicine packages
UPM Raflatac – www.upmraflatac.com
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PACKAGING: LABELLING
RFID creates new markets for label converters Over the past decade, intelligent labels embedded with a RFID inlay have proven to deliver big benefits to apparel retailers. RFID is now expanding its foothold in other areas, including cosmetics and beauty, pharmaceuticals, food production and distribution, aviation, automobile manufacturing, and logistics and fulfilment.
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he adoption of radio frequency identification (RFID) in various industries is creating additional opportunities for label converters. The start and key to developing a successful intelligent labels business is choosing the right inlay provider. An inlay is the RFID transponder embedded or inserted in the label structure, thus making it an intelligent label. There are several key factors to consider when choosing a provider.
PRODUCT PORTFOLIO A reputable inlay provider should have a broad product portfolio, so that tags with inlays will work on a wide variety of products. Avery Dennison Smartrac provides passive HF, NFC and passive UHF RFID inlays, as well as an
array of inlay sizes and shapes to ensure its label converter partners can meet the needs of their customers.
QUALITY MATTERS A high-quality product is also just as important as a broad product portfolio. A fraction of RFID inlays in a production run can have a short read range or be completely dead due to issues such as a defective chip. Avery Dennison has extensive quality control checks at each stage of the inlay production process to ensure that every piece works properly. These checks also prevent defective inlays from entering the market. Avery Dennison has received the ARC-accreditation for quality from the Auburn University RFID Lab.
SAMPLING SERVICE Rapid receipt of sample tags is important so that converters can provide them to their customers when they begin exploring whether RFID will work in their applications. Avery Dennison will provide samples of most of its inlays within 24 hours. When available, it also provides samples of all new inlays developed for its label converting partners.
TECHNICAL SUPPORT Choosing the right inlay for a customer’s specific needs is crucial. It is important to work with an inlay provider that can advise on the best solution and the right way to use the finished label on a product. In some cases, Avery Dennison will
Did you know? Avery Dennison has developed the AD163u8 (60mm x 4mm) and AD-180u7 (26mm diameter) RFID inlays specifically for cosmetics. These advances in inlay designs were developed to overcome challenges associated with tracking cosmetics with RFID, particularly where small-sized products are concerned, such as lipstick and eyeliner. ISW_FEEL THE COLOUR 177 x 65 copy.pdf
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Avery Dennison’s product AD-163 is a RAIN UHF RFID inlay recommended for tagging a wide range of beauty items. The 64mm x 6mm antenna is a global design with excellent broadband performance (860MHz to 930MHz), which can achieve up to 7m read distance on high dielectric materials such as glass, plastics and near-liquid 1
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PACKAGING: LABELLING
MARKET DEVELOPMENT Beyond the factors above, converters should also work with inlay providers that are helping to develop new markets. Avery Dennison has engaged with relevant organisations and associations to better understand the needs of different industries and to promote the use of intelligent labels. These efforts ultimately benefit label converters, as well as the inlay provider. take product samples to its systems labs and reproduce the scenario in which the customer plans to use the intelligent labels. This generates a professional analysis of the recommended inlay and its placement on the product. Avery Dennison’s design facilities can develop custom inlays where required, and if there is enough demand for them, the design can be created at no charge to the converter. Avery Dennison also has deep expertise in label converting, can provide inlays in the proper or preferred formats, advise on direct converting without inserting the inlays and
UNLOCKING NEW POSSIBILITIES ensure converters are producing the highest quality finished labels.
FOCUS ON CAPACITY It’s important to choose an inlay provider with sufficient manufacturing capacity to deliver the inlays you require in a timely manner. Avery Dennison has invested in expanding its capacity over the past five years. It has also set up distribution facilities around the world in order to deliver the inlays when and where they are needed.
Smartrac offers a suite of digital ID technologies which authenticate product history, provide tracking and inventory solutions, and conjure up richer consumer encounters. In a world of big data and massive amounts of information, digital ID technologies help create certainty, showing how a connected world can be a better world, full of greater possibilities. •
Avery Dennison – rfid.averydennison.com
The global market for label printing is set to hit $45B. Is your labelling system set up to handle a portion of this market? Labels are a vital tool for conveying product information, product identity and safety validation - particularly in the pharma, health & wellness industries. At TracePack we specialise in equipment to mark, code or label your products.
Reach out and let us introduce you to our comprehensive labelling solutions today. +27 10 020 7221
www.tracepack.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MARCH 2022
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PACKAGING: LABELLING
Packaging–
the #1 connector to your target market
Opportunities pass quickly, we live in a very competitive era where a good product can easily be outsold by a similar offering with better designed packaging. To avoid being left behind, manufacturers and brand owners must compete at a higher level when it comes to packaging. Here’s how.
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ackaging needs to clearly define target markets, communicating key information to connect personally with the consumer. Interaction is key from the time that your customer first browses the shelf looking for a solution to fulfil their needs. In a fast-changing world it is important to remain flexible and keep up to date with consumer trends. Consumers want more from their choices. Companies must compete harder with regard to product packaging to establish a personal connection with their consumers.
EFFECTIVE PACKAGING AND EFFICIENT WORKFLOW What if we told you that perceived value is projected through your product presentation? You could find yourself in a position to compete with larger US and European retail brands using effective and well-designed labels and packaging tools. What if your packaging could communicate back to the enterprise critical information such as which part-time packer was responsible for packing errors on customer returns? What if by doing this you could identify repeat offenders? Small steps to improve workflow create large returns over time. In a world where profit margins are getting tighter, we need to be more efficient. We need to keep testing new packaging prototypes to find the sweet spot between consumers’ perceived value and fulfilment value. How does a product make the consumer feel?
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FIND THE RIGHT PARTNER TO SUPPORT YOUR JOURNEY Your packaging partner needs to guide you towards an affordable method to test new ideas, fresh variants and different consumer journeys. This could be your game-changer – how many of your competitors are paying attention to what their customers want from their product experience? Collaborative communication with the consumer is key. Your consumer wants to feel part of your story, experience your brand promises and ultimately, by process, demands appreciation for their spend and loyalty. Customers stay as long as they feel appreciated. For the producer, the feedback from their communication efforts helps to improve user experience, providing upto-date information that keeps customers coming back for more.
"Every year, brand owners spend more on their packaging to better connect with their audience" International trends built over more than 10 years don’t lie. Every year, brand owners spend more on their packaging to better connect with their audience. What’s more is that the strategy is working for those who listen to their customers and adapt accordingly.
Did you know? Counterfeiting is more and more prevalent in FMCG product markets. Consumers want to spot “the real deal” from fakes. The better you can control packaging, the more you can prevent market fakes from impacting your consumer’s experience.
DIGITAL SOLUTIONS AMPLIFY FLEXIBILITY During the pandemic the need for packaging flexibility was amplified. Customers were desperate to keep their products on the shelf and available to consumers. The challenges broke many, but we found inspiration in the few who stood up to the task. Those that flourished moved quickly to launch new product lines and variations of existing lines while readjusting messages of current product. NSI LABEL has received many calls from companies wanting to invest in their own packaging printing equipment since the pandemic struck. Its customers who already had digitally-operated packaging solutions hardly noticed industry production shortages and delays. The flexibility allowed quick response to new opportunities without the need to order large stocks to test the new markets. Online purchases of luxury items like cosmetics, nutritional supplements, hygiene-related products etc. increased. Products with well-designed packaging capitalised and, in some instances, still do. Immune boosters, multivitamins and
PACKAGING: LABELLING
sanitiser products sold faster than they could be produced, and traditional packaging demand could not be met. The flow of international brands was restricted, giving an open door to locally-produced products and solutions.
EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY An interesting shift is happening in consumer behaviour where their consideration of the product life cycle after use is becoming as important as the product itself. More brands are willing to pay a premium to accept recyclability or the use of recycled elements, which ultimately enrich the consumer product experience. Customers are becoming more aware of the impact of their products on the environment and are proactively making changes to protect the Earth for future generations. Legally suppliers are bound to be responsible and communicate that responsibility to their customers. These changes are constant, and you need to be flexible with your product packaging to accommodate them without wasting masses on packaging stock write-offs. Think out of the box, ask many questions and do not get left behind. Consumers want more and will give their hard-earned money to those products packaged in a way that makes them feel appreciated. You will not be able to be at every point of sale of your product, so make sure that your packaging is “dressed for success”. •
ROLL OR SHEET LABEL OPTIONS
PRINT AND DIE CUT
LABELS PRODUCED ON DIGITAL PRINTING SOLUTIONS
LABELS DIGITALLY AS YOU NEED
Making great ideas YOUR TRUSTED SUPPLIER
Support & Training
www.labelandpack.africa
+2782 467 4694
wim@labelandpack.africa NSI LABEL – www.labelandpack.africa
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MARCH 2022
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PACKAGING: LABELLING
Investments drive label converter’s resilience
To combat the recent lack of material availability and supply chain constraints, Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. has spread its geographic footprint, increased warehousing and broadened its supplier networks. As customers adjust their models to the changes brought about by the pandemic, they require trusted partners with the capability to deliver their products timeously and efficiently.
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s prices increase from materials and labour to distribution and energy, the pressure is mounting for converters. As brand owners’ interest is to maintain product pricing, they need to align with partners who can add value. Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. has introduced advanced inspection technology and workflow software that minimises downtime and reduces wastage to a minimum, ensuring optimum production efficiencies.
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Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. provides customers with peace of mind knowing they are collaborating with a B-BBEE Level One SANAS accredited supplier. The continual improvement model ensures it maintains the highest standard such as completing the EASI programme through The Ethics Institute. The company’s culture is also entrenched in every tier of the business.
AN ETHICAL AND ACCREDITED SUPPLIER
SOLUTIONS TO ENHANCE THE EXPERIENCE
As the corporate mindset shifts, sustainability and brand identity are merging – not only to align with consumer demand, but also in taking responsibility for the impact throughout a product’s life cycle. The requirements have expanded from purely environmental, to include sustainability in the workforce, ethical supplier awareness and fair labour practices.
Consumer interaction remains a widespread requirement. Brand owners expect superior print quality that enhances the visual experience and compels purchasing decisions. Consumers seek to relate to a brand’s story and vision. Providing access to in-depth brand and product content is vital and incorporating a journey via a QR Code, for example, can define the experience.
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"Siyakha has introduced advanced inspection technology and workflow software" Understanding that the only constant is change, Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. continues to evolve and create opportunity. As the company is well positioned for 2022 and beyond thanks to its strategic partnerships and standing, its leadership sees a favourable future for the label and packaging sector. •
Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. – www.labelprint.co.za
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Wrapsa increases production capacity as it nears 40 years in business
Wrapsa, which is celebrating its 39th anniversary this year, recently completed the latest investment at its pharma manufacturing facility in Centurion, Gauteng to add new production capacity in three areas to produce lozenges, pastilles and effervescents. By Abby Vorster
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ith the growing demand for more convenient forms of oral drug delivery, conventional gelatine capsules, tablets, powders and liquids have been joined by more innovative dosage formats, such as gummies, pastilles and lozenges. The advantages of these new formats include dosing convenience as well as palatability and no need for water to administer the medicines.
"The capacity enhancements and facility developments at Wrapsa have been crucial to its 39-year longevity" Wrapsa is a bona fide contract manufacturer of pharmaceutical products. In order to assist its customers who are pursuing the development of new and improved oral therapies, Wrapsa has invested heavily in equipment and technology to produce pastilles and lozenges. It has also invested in an effervescent plant, which requires highly specific temperature and humidity monitoring due to the sensitive nature of effervescent pharmaceutical products.
A WORLD-CLASS LABORATORY To ensure the stability of pastilles, lozenges, effervescent tablets and the many other
Wrapsa’s laboratory
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forms of pharmaceutical and nutraceutical products produced at Wrapsa, several stability testing upgrades have been implemented within its laboratory. These include new rooms and chambers to boost capacity in this area of the business. The new laboratory equipment allows the team to carry out FTIR spectrophotometric testing on medicinal products. This is an effective analytical method to quickly and reliably perform quantative tests on pharmaceuticals and complementary medicines. The contract manufacturer has progressed well towards attaining SANAS 17025-accreditation, which will complement the ISO 9001-accreditation already achieved within the laboratory. Another major achievement for Wrapsa is its certification from the US Food & Drug Administration for foodstuffs and cosmetics intended for end-use in the US, which coincides with it recently being licensed by SAHPRA to produce medical devices.
FOUR DECADES OF ACCOMPLISHMENTS The capacity enhancements and facility developments at Wrapsa have been crucial to its 39-year longevity. As the contract manufacturer looks forward to the momentous milestone of celebrating four decades in business in 2023, Wrapsa will continue to fulfil the definitive need for reliable South African manufacturers of pharmaceutical products, toiletries, pharmaceutical aerosols, veterinary products, food supplements and complementary medicines. The company has grown steadily from modest beginnings to become South Africa’s largest independently-owned and fullyaccredited contract manufacturer, supplying award-winning and expert services to some of world’s leading pharma giants and most influential healthcare brands. •
ARV filling line
Tablet packing line
WRAPSA POWERS ITS OWN FUTURE Manufacturing companies can play an important role in building a sustainable future by transforming their operations. Wrapsa has stepped up to this challenge by investing in backup energy supply. So, power outages never result in downtime at Wrapsa. Furthermore, the manufacturer’s water supply consists of a closed loop system, where rejected wastewater of the reverse osmosis plant is recirculated for use within the ablution facilities. This reduces wastage and consumption in the long run.
Wrapsa – www.wrapsa.co.za
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Powered for success in sports nutrition product development Globepak is a pioneer in supplement manufacturing, capable of producing one of the largest ranges of retail products on the continent. As a subsidiary of the USN group of companies, it has been at the forefront of developing and manufacturing plant protein formulations for a growing market in South Africa and worldwide. By Abby Vorster
S
et in Centurion’s Louwlardia Logistics Park in Gauteng, Globepak delivers high-quality powdered products for the supplement industry at an affordable price. The contract manufacturing and packing facility is adjacent to the new home of USN and has been operating at this site since September 2021.
"A never-say-never attitude and highquality standards are cornerstones of our success" The facility is state-of-the-art and world-class from an operational perspective. Globepak’s general manager, Waldo van der Walt, says the high-level functioning of the plant is thanks to its dedicated team of passionate people, who take pride in the work they do and brands they supply. “A never-say-never attitude and high-quality standards are cornerstones of our success. The sky is the limit and continuous improvement is fundamental to our company’s journey,” he explains.
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NO-TOUCH DRY POWDER MANUFACTURING Globepak is known in the market as a specialist in dry powder product manufacturing, which can be a complex task to handle. This is especially true on a site where the diverse range of goods produced includes products each with its own unique properties. To manage these complexities, its infrastructure is set up on the basis of structured production practices with segregated blending and packing rooms. This is reinforced by experienced staff and technicians, who provide insights into best practices and facilitate high standards through stringent in-line quality checks. While issues of traceability, authenticity and quality control have been on the supplement industry’s agenda for many years, weak points have resulted in increasing demand from consumers for fully traceable, authentic products with guaranteed quality and safety. Globepak has made great strides in this area by implementing an innovative no-touch production principle on its state-of-the-art filling equipment and by segregating blending and packing rooms. The Flexicon system and frictionless augers also help to ensure the safety of personnel, protect the environment and guarantee product quality.
Did you know?
UPGRADES DRIVE CAPACITY INCREASE
Globepak will engage with any potential customer who would like to manufacture a dry powder sports nutrition product. Although USN owns 100% of the business, Globepak operates as a contract manufacturing and packing business with stringent policies in place to protect the IP of all its customers.
Last year, Globepak invested heavily in upgrading the ergonomics, space and infrastructure within its facility in order to elevate it to a level that is world-class. “This has allowed us to exceed customer expectations,” says Van der Walt.
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Whey protein production is a core focus area of the business
Globepak’s segregated blending and packing rooms
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Globepak's packing hall (above) with a closeup of the packing line setup (below)
“New product development is the core service we offer, including but not limited to flavour/product matches, reformulations and line extensions,” Van der Walt explains. This level of innovation keeps Globepak at the forefront of powder product development and production for the supplement industry. It also requires the manufacturer to work closely with its suppliers to source ingredients of the highest quality and with scientifically proven efficacy. Maccallum has been a reliable partner in this sense and always goes above and beyond to provide insights and supports the team on challenging projects. With a new facility and enhanced capacity, the sky is the limit for Globepak. The future of the business lies in export markets and its ongoing development beyond the bigticket areas of capacity and facility enhancement. Van der Walt points to waste reduction measures and solutions to prevent downtime as areas where the company will be investing next. “We aim to build an organisation with a reputation that speaks to our standards and those of the leading brands we service. This is fundamental to our journey.” •
Globepak – www.usn.co.za
Delivering an 80% increase in monthly capacity, the major improvements include an expansion of the floorspace from 4 000m2 to 7 000m2, increasing the storage capacity of the raw materials warehouse by 50% and the raw materials dispensary rooms by 100%. The manufacturer also installed two additional packing lines and went on to contain both the new and its existing packing lines within individual cleanroom environments. “We are currently in the process of recertifying our facility with a robust FSSC 22000 v5.1-compliant system, which ensures the safety of our products – for our customers and consumers. Following this is the implementation of ISO 9001 quality management systems-certification to ensure our systems are compliant with an internationally-recognised quality assurance scheme,” Van der Walt adds. “We are both halaal- and kosher-certified and strive to make products inclusive and readily available to all sectors of the market. To supply the US with our world-class offerings and as per the requirement of our customers, Globepak is also certified with Registrar Corp as a division of the FDA.”
Proud supplier of quality ingredients to Globepak.
INNOVATING TO REACH NEW HEIGHTS Globepak was established 11 years ago and has retained most of its staff since inception. Its elite R&D technologists are instrumental in bringing customers’ visions to life while ensuring consistency in product quality.
www.maccallum.co.za
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Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceu�cal and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has been opera�ng for over 40 years, and is a key player in the complementary medicine manufacturing arena in South Africa. Hersol manufactures a wide range of products in various dosage forms: including tablets – single and double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film coa�ng), effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, topical prepara�ons such as; creams, gels, ointments and lo�ons, syrups and liquids. Hersol prides itself on quality assured products, which have undergone various compliance checkpoints. Hersol does in addi�on to the manufacturing of complementary pharmaceu�cal products, also offers Contract Packing. Pack sizes include 30s, 60s, 120s, 180s and even 200s. Hersol’s Research and Development Department plays an important role in the development of new products as well as upgrading of current products. We can manage the whole process from concept to final product ready for sale. Hersol is proud to note that it has a fully accredited Laboratory, with an instrument room with HPLC’s, AA, GC, final product tes�ng equipment, as well as a comprehensive Microbiological laboratory. Hersol is registered with: • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority • South African Department of Health • South African Pharmacy Council • Health Product Associa�on – HPA • Self Care Associa�on of South Africa • Cosme�cs, Toiletries and Fragrances Associa�on • FDA Food Facility
40 years of excellence
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2 fax: +27 11 614 4615 email: enquiries@hersol.co.za
web: www.hersol.co.za
CLEAN BEAUTY
Design new-gen skin care products with advanced delivery systems
Berg+Schmidt, a specialist in natural, high-tech ingredients, will be showcasing its newest lipid-based delivery systems at in-cosmetics Global. Among them, BergaCare SmartLipids Bakuchiol extends the range of advanced carrier systems for time-release liberation and improved penetration of on-trend, anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle actives.
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xtracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, Bakuchiol is a natural alternative to retinol with better skin tolerability. BergaCare SmartLipids Bakuchiol not only offers an encapsulated Bakuchiol with anti-wrinkle and skin barrier-restoration benefits but also has formulation advantages, even in aqueous applications. Combining natural ingredients with
kalahari melon seed oil. This vegetal oil provides a particularly light skin feel and is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E for improved skin elasticity, while linoleic acid as a precursor for ceramides helps rebalance and moisturise the skin barrier. BergaCare FG L 11 (INCI: Undecane (and) Tridecane (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil
focused our efforts on healthy skin and sustainable raw material solutions. In recent years, we have reinforced our scientific research and are pleased to present our new in-demand solutions in Paris, France, in April.” On Wednesday, 6 April, during in-cosmetics Global Dr Sabilla Digel, R&D manager at Berg+Schmidt Cosmetics,
broad application know-how and sound science, Berg+Schmidt also offers several novelties within its portfolio of cosmetic specialities.
Unsaponifiables (and) CocoCaprylate / Caprate) is a light and dry emollient blend based on natural ingredients for skin that feels soft and nourished. Berg+Schmidt has applied for COSMOS approval for both of the new BergaCare FG variants. Its entire portfolio of cosmetic specialities is available locally from Afrisil Speciality Ingredients.
will present a scientific session on BergaCare SmartLipids Bakuchiol and how natural active delivery is made easy for formulators. Members of Berg+Schmidt’s cosmetic esters and basic oleochemicals teams will be available during the trade show to discuss and demonstrate the diversity of raw materials for various personal care applications. They will illustrate how these ingredients can be customised to meet individual needs, focusing on innovative, environmentally friendly, safe and functional solutions. •
"We have focused our efforts on healthy skin and sustainable raw material solutions" The extended BergaCare FG range focuses on natural silicone alternatives with high volatility and sophisticated sensory properties for enhanced skin care products. BergaCare FG M 12 (INCI: Coco Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dodecane (and) Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil) contains
INSTANT RESULTS COUPLED WITH THE NATURAL FACTOR Kristin Köhler, division manager cosmetics, says: “Today’s consumers are seeking smart cosmetic products that not only offer immediate results but are also natural, which is a major challenge for formulators and R&D specialists. Therefore, we have
Berg+Schmidt – www.berg-schmidt.de/en Afrisil Speciality Ingredients – karin@afrisil.com
Are you looking for new options of safe and functional hero
ingredients?
Bakuchiol, the natural retinol alternative and skin care hero, is now available in an encapsulated format – BergaCare SmartLipids Bakuchiol. The BergaCare FG range ticks all the boxes as natural silicone alternatives. Talk to us for samples and more info!
Local distributor of
Telephone: +27 11 465 2892 | +27 (0)73 124 0935 3 Granville Ave, Lea Glen, Roodepoort 1709 E-mail: karin@afrisil.com
Web: www.afrisil.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MARCH 2022
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CLEAN BEAUTY
3
ways to define ‘hero ingredients’
Hero ingredients are a good solution for any formulation. Chances are the term hero ingredient is familiar to cosmetic chemists. Many brands use the phrase to market their next best product or range, powered by a hero ingredient. But what exactly is a hero ingredient? What makes it special, and how can brands position their next product launch on one? Experts from Aprinnova provide the answers.
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hero ingredient offers multiple benefits backed by scientific studies, can be used across categories and applications, and is always available. Heroes respond to consumer demand for streamlined, skinimalist routines by helping formulators pare down INCI lists without sacrificing on performance – one hero ingredient can be used instead of many “sidekick” ingredients with fewer benefits.
"Hero ingredients truly do it all, much like a superhero would" The concept is explained in detail in The Product Developer’s Guide to the Clean Beauty Renaissance, available for download on Aprinnova’s website. The guide provides three critical answers to help beauty and personal care formulators improve their next product launch. Not only does it cover how to define hero ingredients, it also provides strategies for
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holistically defining “clean” and establishing supply chain transparency. Together, these approaches enable formulators to enter into the clean beauty renaissance wherein all beauty care becomes clean beauty, which is key to success. These three features should be top of mind when defining hero ingredients: 1. multiple benefits backed by scientific studies 2. ability to be used across categories and applications 3. always available with a stable, ethical supply chain. Hero ingredients truly do it all, much like a superhero would. The sustainable and ethical supply chain of hero ingredients provides an ideal solution for multiple sidekick ingredients that bulk up an INCI list. The flexibility behind hero ingredients enables them to enhance any category and application.
SUGARCANE-DERIVED SKIN CARE HERO Neossance™ Squalane is a go-to emollient for the highest quality, best performing skin care products. It fits the three criteria for hero
Did you know? 73% of millennials are willing to pay more for a product that offers complete transparency in all attributes. Consumers understand that sustainability is valuable and are willing to pay a premium so that the Earth can benefit. Source: www.labelinsight.com
ingredients and offers a wide range of benefits. It increases skin moisturisation, improves barrier repair, reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, promotes a healthy skin microbiome and efficiently delivers up to 40 times more CBD faster than other oils. Neossance Squalane is also behind the success of the new CleanScreen™ Z60SF. This zinc oxide UV dispersion addresses increasing consumer concerns about sunscreen safety and sustainability without compromising on product performance or sensory properties. With CleanScreen Z60SF, formulators can design non-whitening, anti-ageing skin care products and colour cosmetics that meet the highest standards of clean beauty. Neossance Squalane is a more stable form of the body’s natural moisturiser, squalene. It
CLEAN BEAUTY
replaces traditional squalane extracted from shark liver or impure and inconsistent olive oil squalane. Neossance Squalane can also work as a carrier, helping to enhance the performance of actives in skin care products.
resonate with consumers’ demands. Successful clean beauty product launches start with effective, sustainable ingredients. Click on the link to download your copy of the guide: https://bit.ly/3BHg94I
AMPLE ROOM FOR INNOVATION HERO INGREDIENT FOR HAIR CARE Neossance Hemisqualane is an ideal natural and sustainable replacement for silicones in personal care and cosmetics. In hair care, it offers the same benefits as traditional ingredients like amodimethicone, dimethicone, hydrolysed keratin and polyquaternium-55. This innovative light emollient has a high spreadability and a great sensorial profile. It fortifies hair care formulations, offering frizz reduction, damage reduction, advanced colour retention and increased thermal protection. Aprinnova’s Neossance Squalane and Hemisqualane are produced from fermentation of Bonsucro-certified renewable sugarcane. Bonsucro, a global non-profit organisation funded by the World Wildlife Foundation, promotes sustainable sugarcane production, processing and trade. Its platform provides brands and consumers with complete confidence that Aprinnova’s cosmetic
ingredients are made sustainably and ethically, right from the start. In South Africa, these clean beauty ingredients are available from Savannah Fine Chemicals.
CONTINUE THE JOURNEY With the right tools, beauty brands and cosmetic chemists can embrace the future of clean. The Product Developer’s Guide to the Clean Beauty Renaissance provides formulators with an in-depth perspective of clean beauty, hero ingredients and complete supply chain transparency. Each of these clear guidelines will inspire and frame successful product launches which
Although there is hype from a number of experts on a merger of the hair, scalp care, skin care and wellness categories, I believe it will still be a couple of years before we see an integration of any magnitude. Consumer demand across these categories may have aligned, but they are viewed in a different light. Hair care is still seen as the “rock ’n roll” of the professional beauty industry, whereas skin care is perceived as gentle and soothing classical jazz. Having said that, as technology increases, innovation will continue in the scalp care category. I do foresee an increase in personal home devices for scalp care and treatment. In fact, there is still a gap in the South African market for advancement and innovation. • Aprinnova – aprinnova.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – savannah.co.za
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Polymers to improve processability, stability and patient satisfaction
Ashland is a global consumer market-focused additives and speciality ingredients company that responsibly solves for a better world. Ashland Life Sciences advances drug delivery with an unparalleled range of excipients. Its longstanding polymer expertise and technical support enable sophisticated science-based solutions for today’s drug formulation challenges.
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he global centres of excellence of Ashland are home to advanced equipment and passionate research scientists and formulators, who are ready to work from concept to commercialisation. As a company that is always solving™, Ashland is driven by its vision to make a better world by providing creative solutions through the application of speciality ingredients and materials.
• controlled-release, incorporating release-profile prediction and simulation, melt extrusion, particle and pellet coating, drug layering and matrix tablets • film coating with fluid bed coating, pan coating and colour matching.
SOLUTIONS FOR FORMULATORS, MANUFACTURERS AND PATIENTS Available locally from SK Chemtrade, Ashland’s solutions contribute to increased patient acceptability and satisfaction. They add to the ease with which a product can be manufactured, support the overall safety and effectiveness of a drug during storage or use, and enhance stability and bioavailability. Scientists from Ashland support the pharmaceutical industry with formulation and process development in various application areas, including: • standard granulation, such as fluid bed, high shear and hot-melt extrusion • tabletting, ranging from direct compression, bi-layer, multi-layer and tablet in tablet to compaction simulation and 3D printing • solid dispersion such as hot-melt extrusion and spray drying
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Ashland has considerable expertise in the characterisation of powder properties, including flow, particle size, surface area, morphology and more. The company offers real-time solutions based on superior binder, film coating, solubiliser,
disintegrant, rheology control, stabiliser and modified-release technologies. Products are available in various grades for oral solid, liquid and injectable dosage forms.
MULTIFUNCTIONAL WATER-SOLUBLE CELLULOSE POLYMERS Klucel hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) is a non-ionic water-soluble cellulose ether with a remarkable combination of properties. It has long been the tablet binder of choice for oral solid dosage forms in pharmaceutical applications. Klucel HPC combines organic solvent solubility, thermoplasticity and surface activity with the aqueous thickening and stabilising properties characteristic of other watersoluble cellulose polymers available from Ashland. Benecel hypromellose products are water-soluble, non-ionic polymers. Hypromellose is the most widely used polymer in hydrophilic matrix systems with widespread use in controlled-release dosage forms. The Benecel family of pharmaceutical products provides a full portfolio to support the controlled release of a broad range of APIs and manufacturing processes. Ashland’s newest grades, Benecel XR and XRF, are HPMC products with an optimised
PHARMA FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS CYCLODEXTRINS FOR TASTE-MASKING AND ENHANCED SOLUBILITY
polymer structure and particle morphology that enable the formulation of safe, effective, and robust oral solid controlledrelease dose forms.
RHEOLOGY, FILM COATING AND BINDING SYSTEMS Natrosol 250 hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) is a non-ionic, water-soluble cellulose ether. It is used in solutions and gels to control rheology. In emulsions it is used for its high salt tolerance and surfactant compatibility, and in modified-release matrix tablets, where high-viscosity grades provide effective diffusion-limiting release of active pharmaceutical ingredients (API) with low water solubility.
The molecular structure of cyclodextrins creates a bucket-like cavity that can function to complex with molecules or functional groups on molecules. The substitution of hydroxyl groups on native cyclodextrins to make hydroxypropyl-ß- or hydroxypropyl-γ-cyclodextrins (HPBCD or HBGCD) significantly enhances their solubility and makes them more suitable for drug solubilisation. This mechanism makes the Cavitron and Cavasol HPBCDs and HPGCDs capable of masking unpleasant taste/odour and stabilising drugs that are prone to degradation and can increase solubility of poorly soluble compounds in oral drug delivery systems. Purification of the Cavitron cyclodextrins to remove endotoxins enables their use in the solubilisation of drugs for parenteral drug products. Cavamax cyclodextrins are biocompatible and compatible with a wide range of ingredients commonly used in pharmaceutical applications. The regulatory compliance information for all Ashland products varies by product family and grade. For specific data about a respective grade, please refer to the Excipient Information Package and the Certificate of Analysis. • Cavamax and Cavasol are registered trademarks of Wacker Chemie. Ashland acts as a worldwide distributor for Wacker. Ashland – www.ashland.com SK Chemtrade – www.skchemtrade.co.za
"Each of Ashland’s products is fully formulated, easily dispersed and provides a range of functions to suit almost any tablet core" Aquarius film coating systems have a range of functions to suit almost any core. Each of Ashland’s products is fully formulated, easily dispersed and provides a range of functions to suit almost any tablet core. Aquarius film coating systems offer an optimum balance of film strength and adhesion, even for challenging cores and release profiles. Many of Ashland’s film coating systems are sprayable at high solid concentrations, so faster coating times and reduced energy usage can be realised. Plasdone povidones are a family of water-soluble polymers based on N-vinylpyrrolidone that combine a unique set of properties for application in a wide variety of dosage forms. Plasdone povidones are commonly used as binders for the development of tablet formulations, whether manufactured by wet granulation, dry granulation or direct compression.
AGENTS FOR DISSOLUTION AND CONTROLLED RELEASE Polyplasdone crospovidone superdisintegrants are synthetic, insoluble, but rapidly swellable, crosslinked homopolymers of N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone. Crospovidone provides rapid disintegration and dissolution to oral solid dosage forms. Viatel bioresorbable polymers is a leading technology for parenteral controlled-release drug delivery. Ashland offers five families of bioresorbable polymers and is willing to provide custom produced polymers with defined chemical structures, molar masses (molecular weight or inherent viscosity), and selective terminal end-groups.
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Unique co-processed calcium mineral with enhanced bioavailability Omyaforte 100 is a highly bioavailable source of calcium produced by Omya, a manufacturer of mineral ingredients. Launched in 2021, the ingredient is suitable for fortified foods and powdered supplement formulations aimed at athletes, healthy agers and others who may have a calcium deficiency.
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ased on high-purity natural calcium carbonate, which is functionalised by a patented recrystallisation process, Omyaforte™ 100 is based on an innovative mineral composition and structure. According to Omya, this leads to higher solubility of calcium salt in acidic environments, such as gastric juice. Bio-accessibility is enhanced, ensuring better calcium uptake in the bloodstream.
"Omyaforte 100 contains 39% elemental calcium – almost twice as much as calcium citrate" Therefore, the ingredient is perfectly suited to applications with a high content of bioavailable calcium, such as bone health mixtures, rehydration solutions and calcium capsules.
SMALL DOSE WITH A BIG IMPACT Compared to calcium citrate and natural calcium carbonate, Omyaforte 100 offers a significantly higher content of bioavailable calcium. A recent study compared its bioavailability with that of other frequently used calcium salts.1 The results showed that Omyaforte not only contains a high percentage of
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Figure 1: The tailored composition of Omyaforte 100 allows for accelerated solubility and ultimately highly effective calcium uptake
elemental calcium, but is also extremely bioavailable, making it an excellent and reliable source of calcium. Omyaforte 100 contains 39% elemental calcium – almost twice as much as calcium citrate. Since it combines high levels of elemental calcium and offers effective calcium uptake, only a small amount of Omyaforte 100 is needed to reach the
Did you know? Omya collaborated with collagen specialist Gelita to develop a cocoa drink that offers an excellent calcium source for bone health. The beverage powder prototype combines Omyaforte 100OG and Fortibone® for improved bone stability and flexibility.
recommended daily intake. Therefore, 770mg of the mineral ingredient is required to achieve 30% of the recommended 1 000mg calcium per day. This amount can be easily incorporated into powdered products, such as chocolate drinks, without affecting sensory properties or textures.
PEER-REVIEWED STUDY RESULTS From a nutritional point of view, two factors are important when it comes to calcium supplementation: 1. the amount of elemental calcium in the salt 2. its bioavailability. For the study published in the scientific journal Food Chemistry, referenced below, researchers compared the bioavailability of Omyaforte 100 with other commercially
PHARMA FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS
available calcium sources, such as calcium citrate tetrahydrate, tri-calcium phosphate and calcium carbonate. Using a Caco-2model that reproduces the conditions of intestinal cells at lab scale, they studied the intestinal absorption of calcium. The results showed that Omyaforte 100 offers a higher elemental calcium content of 39% – almost twice as much as calcium citrate, which contains just 21%. In addition, it is almost twice as biologically available as calcium citrate and calcium carbonate. It generated a total intestinal uptake of 5.68 ± 0.26%, compared to calcium
carbonate (3.93 ± 0.99%), calcium citrate tetrahydrate (3.41 ± 0.33%) and tri-calcium phosphate (1.85 ± 0.34%) – see Figure 1. These results suggest that the type of calcium salt may affect the bioavailability of calcium, since the uptake efficiency values vary.
A SUPERIOR SOLUTION FOR BONE HEALTH Stefan Lander, vice president consumer goods, group sales and marketing at Omya, comments: “The amount of calcium in the diet is not the only thing that is important for strong bones.
Also crucial is the bioavailability of this calcium – in other words, the amount that is absorbed by the intestine. For many people, particularly athletes, the elderly and those who avoid dairy products, it can be difficult to achieve an adequate calcium intake. In addition, during adolescence, the body requires more calcium to build strong bones. For these groups, calcium supplements and fortified foods can be helpful.” Omyaforte 100 is available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, the approved local distributor of Omya. •
REFERENCE: 1. Nieto JA et al.: “Improved in vitro bioavailability of a newly developed functionalized calcium carbonate salt as a food ingredient and its comparison with available commercial calcium salts.” Food Chemistry. Volume 348. 30 June 2021. https://doi. org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2020.128740
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Omya – omyaforte.omya.com
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Kollitab DC 87 L – the all-in-one tableting solution Accelerating product development to shorten time to market, without compromising on the robustness of a tabletting formulation. Maximising the reliability of large-scale tableting processes, while simplifying drug product production allowing for cost-optimised manufacturing at the same time – the targets of a formulator have never been more challenging. Thorsten Cech of BASF SE and Sithembiso Dlalisa of BASF South Africa explore modern co-processed excipients and computer-aided formulation development as effective tools to overcome these demanding tasks.
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raditionally, an active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) is formulated as an immediate release tablet by combining various excipients. Each individual excipient addresses a specific need in the overall formulation concept. Typical requirements are: • increasing the tablet volume with a filler • improving tablet strength with a binder • adjusting the disintegration features by employing a disintegrant • lowering the ejection force by selecting an effective lubricant. Further formulation components might also be required such as wetting agents or glidants to improve the powder flow of the tableting blend. There is a huge selection of excipients available to formulators. All these ingredients need to be evaluated, cleverly combined and their synergies considered. The relevant ratios must also be examined to build up the required target product profile. Having such options is generally a desired feature
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and key for optimising formulations of demanding APIs. Though, in the field of lowto-mid dose APIs, which do not require any special attention when being formulated as immediate release tablets, the situation is very different. Options ask for experience, knowledge, a huge stock of excipients, multiple trials, financial resources and substantial time investments. Time, being the most precious aspect of all, could be spend in other projects. Consistently, formulators must balance their efforts. Time can either be invested in the development of a standard tablet or put into challenging, yet commercially more interesting projects, respectively. This is the area of conflict where both an all-in-one tableting aid and a virtual pharma assistant come in handy. Holistically, these two tools simplify formulation development and free up time and resources greatly required.
THE ALL-IN-ONE TABLETING AID Co-processed excipients are well established in the pharmaceutical community. Uniting the performances and synergies of cleverly
combined excipients and the benefits of a dedicated manufacturing process, coprocessed excipients provide performances that single components are uncapable to deliver. All-in-one excipients evolutionarily developed from this concept (see Table 1). By adding missing attributes, they are transformed to offer fully fetched formulation concepts, satisfying all the needs of an immediate release target product profile. All-in-one components combine the functionalities required to formulate an immediate-release tablet, with the application ease of a ready-to-use component and the robustness and processing reliability of a customised formulation. Is an all-in-one excipient specifically optimised to support customised formulation concepts of a dedicated API? No, surely not. That is not the claim. All-in-one excipients are optimised to simplify development, increase processing robustness and reduce the overall cost of tablet manufacturing. Indeed, following the concept and utilising all its overarching benefits provides various
PHARMA FOCUS: EXCIPIENTS
Table 1: Evolution of functionality, from co-processing to an all-in-one excipient
Product
Ludipress LCE
Ludipress
Ludiflash
Kollitab DC 87 L
Category
co-processed excipient
co-processed excipient
co-processed excipient
all-in-one excipient
Applicable dosage forms
• lozenges • chewable tablets • effervescent tablets
• immediate release tablets
• orally disintegrating tablets
• immediate release tablets
Components
• filler • binder
• filler • binder • disintegrant
• powder flow • dust free • tablet-ability • compressibility • compactability • disintegration • tablet ejection
• filler • binder • disintegrant • lubricant
Functions addressed
• powder flow • tablet-ability • compressibility • compactability
• powder flow • tablet-ability • compressibility • compactability • disintegration
• powder flow • tablet-ability • compressibility • compactability • disintegration • taste
• powder flow • dust free • tablet-ability • compressibility • compactability • disintegration • tablet ejection
advantages throughout the entire business, such as: • purchasing benefits by reducing the number of vendors which reduces complexities • quality and regulatory benefits by minimising testing efforts and expenses, which reduces paperwork • warehousing benefits by minimising the number of excipients, freeing up expensive storage area • research and development benefits by simplifying formulation development and shortening time-to-market, freeing up precious resources. • production benefits by allowing for direct compression and streamlining of processes, hereby decreasing manufacturing complexity and risk of failure.
REDUCE COMPONENTS WITH KOLLITAB DC 87 L An evaluation of marketed drug products reveals that a huge variety of excipients are used in pharma manufacturing. To formulate four drug products, today’s formulation concepts easily require 15+ ingredients (four APIs and 11+ excipients). Utilising the capabilities of an all-in-one component reduces the number of ingredients to five. There are still four APIs, but just one excipient: Kollitab DC 87 L. Kollitab DC 87 L can substitute 11+ excipients in the warehouse and it substitutes an even larger number of excipients on the list
"Formulation development is much more straight forward with Kollitab DC 87 L" of components screened during drug product development. Instead of testing various fillers, binders, disintegrants and lubricants, altering their ratio and still compromising on the overall performance of a physical powder blend, formulation development is much more straight forward with Kollitab DC 87 L. The only variable is the mixing ratio of the API and the all-in-one tableting aid. However, even this ratio can be predicted using ZoomLab, a virtual pharma assistant.
THE VIRTUAL PHARMA ASSISTANT ZoomLab is part of a series of BASF’s web-based assistance supporting the pharma industry with expertise. Alongside RegXcellence (providing documents and information for mainly regulatory purposes) and MyProductWorld (supporting with information on products and allowing for sample requests), ZoomLab has been tailored to simplify formulators’ lives. The algorithms and modules provided by ZoomLab range from topical applications to coated oral solid dosage forms providing modified drug release,
additionally considering solubility and bioavailability of the API. ZoomLab underpins the profound formulation expertise of BASF’s application experts and is the outcome of decades of scientific formulation work. The heart of ZoomLab is a formulation wizard. This unique tool calculates the most promising formulation concept based on very simple tests to characterise the API (e.g. particle size distribution, flowability, tablet-ability) and some general information on its chemical nature. Thus, suitable excipients are selected according to the specific needs of the API and based on their chemical compatibility. Additionally, there is an API database within ZoomLab which holds information on the chemical nature and physical behaviour of generic APIs. If listed, a first virtual prototype of a drug product can be generated within minutes, even without having ever touched the API.
A HOLISTIC APPROACH Leveraging the capabilities of ZoomLab leads to a robust and reliable formulation concept without the need of conducting a single trial. Combining the advantages of the virtual pharma assistant with the performance of Kollitab DC 87 L provides a vast set of advantages, resulting in a major simplification in the development of immediate release tablets. The time that is liberated can be invested in more relevant projects. The combination of both tools provides maximum flexibility and spontaneity, relevant for tender business. If an API has been characterised previously or is even listed among the generic APIs in the ZoomLab database, one can check a Kollitab DC 87 L based formulation concept even without having any of the formulation components. If the ZoomLab check is successful, the next simple steps are ordering the two components (API and Kollitab DC 87 L) and following the manufacturing instructions provided by ZoomLab. The result is the first prototypes will be ready in no time. •
BASF South Africa – sithembiso.dlalisa@basf.com
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STUDENT FOCUS
Clean beauty defined and how it differs from natural and organic
The winner of this year’s Coschem cosmetic science training/P&C Review essay prize is Emma Tiffin of African Extracts Rooibos Skin Care. To acknowledge Emma’s achievement, a shortened version of her essay on the topic “does the clean beauty movement necessarily equate to natural and/or organic in the cosmetics industry”, is published in this student focus and she has received a prize sponsored by P&C Review.
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he rise of the clean beauty movement has led to major shifts in the cosmetics industry which few would have thought possible. The values behind clean beauty affect everything from formulation and packaging to marketing, with major brands jumping on the bandwagon to retain market-share. While almost every consumer has heard of clean beauty the true definition and qualifying criteria are difficult to pin down, leading to a quagmire of opinions and claims. Despite common opinion, the clean beauty movement is not beholden to the labels of natural or organic; instead, the main tenet is that so-called ‘clean’ products do not contain ‘unsafe’ or ‘harmful’ ingredients.1 Clean beauty has evolved from small pharmacy shelves to sprawling stores with dedicated online shops that reassure the ever more-cautious consumer that what they are putting on their skin is ‘clean’ and ‘toxin-free’. Despite the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ being associated with clean beauty, the clean beauty movement developed as a response to societal wellness trends rather than as extensions of the natural or organic beauty movements.
A CLEAN START The 1990s saw the rise of advocacy groups like the American Health Group and the Environmental Working Group (EWG). Initially, the EWG aimed to raise awareness of chemicals and pesticides in food sources.
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As interest gained traction, it launched the SkinDeep database in 2004, which aimed to help consumers identify the ingredients in their personal care products. These databases, coupled rising internet access, gave tenacious consumers the ability to examine their favourite brands’ ingredient listings and question their claims.
"Clean beauty has evolved into a behemoth of global proportions" The clean beauty movement gained momentum in the 2000s, treading the same path of the natural and organic movements in the 90s. Clean beauty was made a focus by celebrity-driven brands like Goop, REN and Ilia beauty, which used the concept as their main marketing advantage. While the shelves of health stores and pharmacies saw the comings and goings of countless indie natural and organic brands, the concept of clean seemed to trigger a huge amount of interest in consumers worldwide. This may have simply been fortuitous timing as the 2010s ushered in a new wave of health and wellness and ‘clean-eating’ lifestyles, making the jump to clean personal care products an obvious next step for many consumers. Smaller, indie brands like Drunken
Elephant and Tatcha Harper started picking up a loyal following who found their clean messaging and honest ingredients appealing.1
E-COMMERCE AND RETAIL GROWTH The proliferation of smaller clean beauty brands has changed the course of the cosmetics industry in a way that no single brand was able to do. As these indie brands started attracting customers away from traditional, mass market personal care products, larger retailers and suppliers began taking notice. As the clean beauty market started to grow and more and more indie brands opened shiny e-commerce stores, so did the need for clean beauty brick and mortar retailers. One of the largest in the world is Credo Beauty, which stocks hundreds of brands that measure up to its standard of what clean beauty should be. The movement has gained so much momentum that mass market retailers, like Walmart and Sephora, have their own lines and sections of their website devoted to products that meet their specifications. Global players too have seen the market appeal of clean beauty brands and previously niche, small-time indie brands have been acquired by the likes of Unilever and Shiseido for hundreds of millions of dollars. Clean beauty has evolved into a behemoth of global proportions and for such a vague, ill-defined term this means a lot of confusion and differing opinions. This is in contrast to the terms natural and organic, which have more obvious definitions.
STUDENT FOCUS NO-LISTS AND DIRTY INGREDIENTS Generally, the term ‘clean beauty’ refers to beauty products that are comprised of mainly naturally derived ingredients and synthetics that have proven to be safe for people and the environment.1,2,4 Ingredient listings tend to be simpler, with more explanation of unfamiliar terms and with a focus on what is in the product. Emphasis is placed on purity and the safety of the ingredients used. This is not a novel idea in and of itself, as most brands on the market are certainly not unsafe to use. Clean beauty is a reaction to a perceived lack of regulation in the cosmetics industry and hotbutton topics such as the safety of common ingredients in skin care. Cosmetic products, especially those that are used on the face, are very personal to consumers and any headlines that suggest even the slightest hint of compromised safety unsurprisingly gain a lot of attention.12 This is illustrated by the consumer pushback against parabens, which are a class of effective preservatives and, despite no proper scientific evidence, are thought to cause cancer. This was due to a widely published study in 2004 which found traces of parabens in breast tissue, which on review showed issues regarding methodology and sample size.12, 13 Further investigations and studies have failed to find definitive causation and therefore, from a scientific perspective, methylparaben and ethylparaben are considered safe for use at the current permitted concentrations.13 However, trying to retract the carcinogenicriddled image of parabens from consumers’ minds has proved almost impossible, especially when clean brands continuously emphasise how the lack of parabens in their products means that they are safe.
Retailers and brands now pick and choose which ingredients go on their ‘no-list’ with often little to no explanation or justification for the avoidance.1,3 Credo has over 2 700 ingredients on its no-list and various other retailers maintain totally different databases.10 A product that may be clean enough for Sephora might contain ‘dirty’ ingredients that preclude it from EWG’s Skin Deep database.
CLEAN VERSUS NATURAL AND ORGANIC When compared to the disorder that is clean beauty, the cosmetic terms natural and, even more so, organic are much better defined. While the term natural is unregulated in the personal care industry, consumers are becoming more and more cognisant of which ingredients are natural and which ones are not. ISO 1612 categorises natural ingredients as those obtained from plants (fungi and algae included), animals, micro-organisms and/or minerals. Natural skin care products, despite having positive connotations, may in some cases fall outside of the umbrella of clean beauty.3 Clean beauty is often also touted as vegan, while important natural waxes like beeswax may be included in natural products. Beeswax is not considered vegan as it is an animal by-product. Essential oils and other plant extracts may contain common allergens that can cause uncomfortable allergic reactions.3 Notably, the EU is becoming stricter regarding allergen classification and is mandating inclusion of allergens that are present over a certain threshold on ingredient listings. This means that specific natural essential oils may be ditched from products in order to clean up ingredient listings.
Natural skin care also runs into issues on the sustainability front. Palm oil is an example of a natural oil that has received a lot of negative attention. Furthermore, a mere 5mℓ of natural rose oil requires 242 000 rose petals to be harvested and pressed.19 This process is incredibly labour intensive, carbon inefficient and unsustainable, which is often in conflict with the aims of the modern clean beauty movement.
A FORMULATOR’S PERSPECTIVE Natural products have historically had poorer overall texture and less luxurious skin feels due to the omission of silicones and synthetic thickeners, which may result in a subpar user experience. Truly natural skin care products can be trickier to formulate due to these restrictions.20 While natural products have an intrinsic appeal due to the positive associations with natural versus synthetic, they still need to perform well in market. Suppliers in the cosmetic industry have been steadily improving their offerings but
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synthetics are often more cost-effective and easily accessible to formulators. Clean beauty has cleverly side-stepped a lot of the concerns with natural products by cherry picking which synthetic chemicals are permissible, and which are not. Brands decide which ingredients are ‘clean’ and which are ‘toxic’, often relying on small studies or common myths rather than proven harms. This allows clean beauty to take the best that science has to offer in terms of synthetic ingredients and actives, while showing consumers that they have been selective about which chemicals to include in their products. Natural components still have an important role to play in the clean beauty market as consumers appreciate the stories and provenance of certain key natural ingredients. Suppliers can prove the provenance of their offerings and therefore natural origins are somewhat easier to prove than the ambiguous ‘clean’ moniker that brands bestow upon themselves. While clean beauty products often include natural ingredients, most clean beauty products are not formulated with 100% naturally derived ingredients. Similarly, while many natural ingredients are sought after by clean beauty chemists, many of these natural raw materials are not suitable for clean beauty brands that push certain sustainable, ethical and animal-free principles.
LABEL CLAIMS AND CERTIFICATIONS Ecocert is one of the world leaders in regulatory standards for natural and organic cosmetics. With natural and organic labels becoming increasingly widespread and accessible to brands, clean beauty has emerged to take brands to the next level in terms of customer appeal. In 2021, Researchandmarkets.com estimated the global market for natural and organic skin care products at a staggering $5.1bn. This is projected to almost double to $10.6bn in 2027 with a 10.6% compound annual growth rate projected for the next seven years.24 These markets are becoming more profitable and new entrants will do well to ensure that their brands and products fall into this vital target market.
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"While natural and organic skin care remain as important and growing markets, they do not always equate to clean beauty" The demand for natural and organic raw materials has had a great influence among speciality chemicals and cosmetic ingredients companies.25 Suppliers are increasing the scope of their offerings and are able to offer a wide diversity of raw materials and actives. Global suppliers are focussing their efforts on developing clean ingredients that can also be natural and organic in origin. New offerings often come preapproved with COSMOS or other certifications, so brands can easily attain their natural and organic goals. This helps suppliers market their new ingredients and revamp old offerings with new shiny organic or naturally derived labels.
LOCAL SOURCING AND ETHICAL SUPPLY CHAINS As the distinctions between clean beauty, natural and organic become clearer, some interesting questions arise. Clean beauty has emerged as a large umbrella under which claims such as “no proven or suspected toxic ingredients”, “fair-trade”, “wild-harvested”, “biodynamic” and “cruelty-free” find a home. Some phrases associated with clean beauty, like ethically sourced or environmentally conscious, lead in new and interesting directions that are not necessarily focussed on natural or organic principles. For example, is shipping a certified organic ingredient from France to be included in a South African product achieving an environmentally conscious mandate? Some brands say no, instead making local sourcing of not-so-organic materials their focus.26 Clean beauty allows this flexibility. In the modern clean beauty age, some consumers would be happy to give up an organic label in order to support an ethical
local farmer. Many brands are considering local supply chains as part of their clean beauty mandate and shrugging off the organic certification. Some brands have pushed the clean beauty envelope even further by focusing on locally sourced, socially responsible components and materials. Credo has a whole section of its website devoted to brands that are specifically owned and run by BIPOC – and in South Africa black-owned brands like Connie Mashaba’s Black Like Me or Portia M are appealing to a whole new market of consumers.27, 28, 29
A FLEXIBLE TREND FOR BRANDS TO EXPLORE From simply excluding proven and suspected toxic ingredients to supporting specific local, ethical suppliers, brands can choose what clean beauty means to them. While natural and organic skin care remain as important and growing markets, they do not always equate to clean beauty. Clean beauty recognises other values outside of natural and organic and often chooses to use tried-and-tested synthetic, scientific ingredients to provide their customers with safe, guaranteed, ethical results. In the time of a global pandemic that has raised consumer interest in ‘clean’ and ‘safe’, the clean beauty movement seems to be in the right place at the right time. Brands which opt into clean beauty have a dynamic marketing tool that they can specifically tailor to their products and brand focus. Ultimately, the movement is incredibly flexible and can expand in almost any direction depending on the principles and imagination of the brands that embrace it, whereas natural and organic will always be bound by clear definitions. • References available on request
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Emma Tiffin has a masters in chemistry from the University of Cape Town and has completed Module 1 of Coschem’s cosmetic science training. She is employed at African Extracts Rooibos Skin Care – a company that reflects her commitment to beauty without cruelty principles. Emma’s interests include wine-tasting and she has a diploma from the Cape Wine Academy. She lives in Sea Point with her two guinea pigs, who are not involved in her research projects.
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Coschem students
prize giving dinner 2021
On 7 February, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists honoured the students who have completed Modules 1 and 2 of their Coschem Cosmetic Science training.
A
fter not being able to meet in person for more than a year due to the ongoing pandemic, lecturers, students and special guests gathered at Blueberry Hill Hotel in Honeydew, Gauteng to celebrate with the students as they received their certificates and special awards.
RECIPIENTS OF THE 2021 SPECIAL AWARDS • Rukaya Mansoor – Top Module 1 Student • Emma Tiffin – P&C Review Essay Prize Winner • Michelle Nott – Top Module 2 Student and Winner of the Jill Gardiner Award • Jaco Botha – Top Module 2 Project and Winner of the
Jaco Botha, Beverley Gardner, who received the positive Nancy Coschem academy award, and Michelle Nott
Jill Gardiner and Michelle Nott, Top Module 2 Student and Winner of the Jill Gardiner Award
Norman Sanan Award • Sarah Lee Christophers – Top Module 2 Presentation and Winner of the Sensient Technologies Creativity Award.
FUN AWARDS FOR THE LECTURERS The Module 2 students added a fun element to the evening’s proceedings by honouring members of the education committee and lecturers with “academy awards”, based on the mentorship and value they added to the students’ training journeys.
Megan Jones and Rukaya Mansoor, Top Module 1 Student
"Lecturers, students and special guests gathered … to celebrate with the students" Nikita Venter received the energizer bunny award for her go-go-go attitude towards everything. The spam me award went to Bridget MacDonald for her enthusiasm in sharing loads of information with the students. Beverley Gardner received the positive Nancy award, Conny Oberrauter won the bubbles award, the Wikipedia award went to Percy Sibanda, Mike Capon received the vineyard award, and for quietly keeping an eye on the proceedings, the headmaster’s award went to Coschem’s education officer, Kudzai Kahle Gwazira. •
Jaco Botha, Kudzai Kahle Gwazira, who recieved the headmaster’s award, and Julia McCauley
Roy Gardiner and Jaco Botha, Top Module 2 Project and Winner of the Norman Sanan Award
To find out more about the Coschem Cosmetic Science training, visit www.coschem.co.za/cosmetic-science-course Jacques Strydom and Johrinda Nel
Beverley Gardner, Lee-Ann Raaff, Elizna Hurter, Tiffany De Astui and Kim MacCallum
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MARCH 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Charmaine Du Preez and Natalie Lourens
Nicola Barnard-Marais and Sarah Lee Christophers, Top Module 2 Presentation and Winner of the Sensient Technologies Creativity Award
Daniel Maier, Bridget MacDonald and Karen Maier
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Coschem looks forward to an exciting future The Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosted its AGM on 10 February via Microsoft Teams, with a handful of members and several council members present at Coschem’s offices for the meeting.
C
harmaine du Preez, Coschem’s president 2021, welcomed the members to the AGM and thanked everyone for their support and attendance via the online platform. Looking at the society’s finances, Ettiene Retief of FTR Accounting Services advised that they were in order. A comprehensive review was conducted of the income and expenses. Majority of the income was raised from membership subscriptions, conference registration fees and a major portion from the cosmetic science course registration fees. The membership income had increased by 9% and the course fee income increased by 2% from the prior year.
"2021 was a productive year focusing on expanding the society’s reach" He also advised that the direct expenses had been reduced as a result of no prize giving or gala dinner events hosted last year which incur large expenses. A refund was received from Gallagher Convention Centre in lieu of the venue hire deposit, which was paid for the conference that had to be cancelled due to COVID-19. Ultimately, the reserves of Coschem are sufficient to ensure current sustainability.
EXPANDING THE REACH OF THE SOCIETY Charmaine took the opportunity to thank members for their support throughout 2021. She presented a comprehensive overview of the sub-committee activities and events from the year. 2021 was a productive year focusing on expanding the society’s reach. A number of PR events and practical sessions were hosted, invitations were sent out to university students as a means to connect with them. To find out more about Coschem and the benefits of being a member, visit www.coschem.co.za/ membership. •
COSCHEM OFFICE BEARERS 2022
Liesl Keulder
Jacques Strydom Ivor Zwane
Erica de Kock
Charmaine du Preez
COUNCIL 2022
Sapphirah Phala
Wayne van Wyk
Nicola BarnardMarais
Charis Lewis
Kudzai Gwazira
Aeysha Jakoet
Johrinda Nel
Beverley Gardner Anina van der Walt
COSCHEM’S OFFICE BEARERS AND COUNCIL MEMBERS 2022 Office bearers: • Liesl Keulder took over the presidency from Charmaine du Preez • Jacques Strydom was elected as vice president • Ivor Zwane was re-elected as honorary secretary • Erica de Kock was re-elected as honorary treasurer • Charmaine du Preez – immediate past president and chair of the social committee Council members: • Nicola Barnard Marais • Beverley Gardner – chair of the scientific committee • Kudzai Gwazira – education officer • Ayesha Jakoet – chair of the PR Committee • Charis Lewis • Johrinda Nel – chair of the seminar committee • Sapphirah Phala – chair of the lecture evening committee • Anina van Der Walt • Wayne van Wyk – co-chair of the scientific committee (co-opted) • Liesl Keulder – president and chair of the membership committee • Charmaine du Preez – immediate past president and chair of the social committee • Jacques Strydom – vice president and co-chair seminar committee • Erica de Kock – honorary treasurer and chair of the coastal chapters • Ivor Zwane – honorary secretary.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // MARCH 2022
41
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