SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
March 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 3
www.pharmacos.co.za
launches Ross & Foxwell to empower fragrance
entrepreneurs
CONTRACT MANUFACTURERS:
Why they are good for your business A sense of what’s next in fragrances Science elevates good skin care
“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com
”
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
The direct selling effect – how fragrances are changing lives
12
March 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 2
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6
NEWS
Southern Cross Botanicals joins forces with Unicare
Symrise launches new warming ingredient
GlobalData predicts Merck to lead in pharma R&D colabs
9
ON THE WEB WITH P&C New skin microbiome research from Givaudan Active Beauty
10 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s new in South Africa
14 EVENTS
Industry finds
new direction
What’s hot at in-cosmetics Global?
17 CONTRACT MANUFACURING
Meet the team at Quintessence Collections
Wrapsa reveals why it’s a preferred contractor
Get closer to natural skin care with Remancos
Grow successful brands with Zinplex Cosmeceutical
Cunningpac focuses on sustainable formulations
Sachet Manufacturers launches a facility in Joburg
centred on access and care
22
26 PHARMA FOCUS: REGULATIONS & LEGISLATION
36 STUDENT FOCUS
Access and care drive a new direction for pharma
The P&C Review/Coschem 2017 Essay Prize Winner
28 FRAGRANCES
Sustainability and fine fragrance trends in focus
Sozio’s perfumers dress up ingredients for success
Mane South Africa invests in local market potential
44 Print and apply
systems in focus
38 SKIN CARE
41
Natural botanical enzyme for mild exfoliation
Next-level sensory ingredients from Evonik | Volum March 2018
e 44 | Number
3
IEW V E R g n i g a k c a P
RICAN SOUTH AF
ww w.pharm
acos.co.za
recycle metal cans
Advantages of print and apply labelling
Automate processes with Marchesini
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS
Automationf at the end o the line
Do your bit to
44 End-of-Line Packaging
d standAutomated an -line alone end-of
systems
The latest developments at Coschem
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
What’s your strategy
for success? T he capital outlay to manufacture
suppliers that continue to invest in the
a product or range, be it
African market.
pharmaceutical, cosmetic or even a complementary medicine, is
Inside this edition you’ll also find an
interesting skin care read on a natural
substantial. Often brand owners need to
exfoliation enzyme (page 38), which is
plug this capital into marketing, branding
more effective than mechanical exfoliation
and retail listings, leaving little cash to cover
but less harsh than AHAs and BHAs.
production, machinery and labour costs.
The winning article in this year’s
This is where contract manufacturers come
P C Review/Coschem Diploma in
in, sourcing cost-effective and reliable
Cosmetic Science essay competition is
suppliers of raw materials and packaging,
published this month. Turn to page 36 now
offering specialist analytical and R&D
to read Nikita Venter’s take on the growth
capabilities, cost optimisation benefits
of anti-pollution products in the cosmetics
and specialised processing – some even
industry and where opportunities exist
offer logistics and distribution solutions.
within this category in Africa.
Who you choose to outsource your
If you’re looking to improve your
manufacturing to is not only dependent
end-of-line packaging equipment
on your budget but also on their size,
and are weighing up whether to go for
capabilities and GMP compliance.
an integrated or stand-alone system,
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Marie-Eugénie Bouge, Raquel Delgado, Jill Gardiner, Alicia Gimenez, Laia González, Dr Thomas Kowallik, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Nikita Venter ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo
PACKAGING REVIEW can help you.
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
contractor is right for you, so we’ve taken a
On page 44, we discuss a variety of
Production Controller: Rae Morrison
look at some of the leading pharma and
solutions that are sure to meet your end-
Art Director: David Kyslinger
cosmetics contract manufacturers to help
of-line needs.
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
It can be tricky to establish which
you make the right choice for your brand.
Please keep in touch with us if you’re
Turn to page 17 now to find out more about
heading to Amsterdam in April for in-
these suppliers.
cosmetics Global and remember to check
Fragrance also plays a major
out our show preview on page 14.
role in your brand’s success. While
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
packaging is considered the number
I hope you enjoy reading
MANAGING DIRECTOR
one attraction, scent is also central to
this edition!
Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
driving consumer appeal. On page
Bridget McCarney
28, we chat about hot ingredients, fine
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
fragrance trends, sustainability and the
John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
New solutions for
TODAY‘S PRESERVATION CHALLENGES THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALITY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE
Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.
> We prefer to reduce preservatives. Not their effect. <
CLARIANT.COM/PERSONALCARE
NEWS
New agency agreement
for Unicare Ingredients SOUTHERN CROSS BOTANICALS has appointed Unicare Ingredients, a division of Unichem Services, as its official distributor in South Africa. The company forms part of the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Group, which Unicare has been representing locally for the past four years. Although Lucas Meyer Cosmetics was acquired by IFF in 2016, Unicare’s South African agency status has been maintained. The products from Southern Cross Botanicals are a perfect fit for Unicare’s portfolio of innovative, active and natural ingredients for personal care and cosmetics. With a strong focus on the sustainable use and preservation
ADD A DOSE OF LEMON
of natural resources, Southern Cross Botanicals specialises in developing
TO YOUR SKIN CARE FORMULATION
ingredients derived exclusively from native Australian plants. The company offers expertise in the fields of botany, agronomy and
THE DEMAND FOR natural ingredients in personal care products is rising.
biology, giving it full control over its production
Consumers are more environmentally conscious than ever before and they
processes from fresh plant biomass to final ingredients.
want safe and effective natural cosmetics. To meet these needs, Alban Muller is committed to natural innovation. The company’s ultra-concentrated CosmePhytami Lemon active provides a safe, paraben-free, cruelty free and glutenfree solution for tonifying and brightening skin. This eco-designed, natural high-tech botanical for cosmetics is produced using a unique manufacturing process called ‘zeodration’. This ecoactive molecules in the extract at five to 10 times more than that of standard the efficacy of the active ingredient and supports claims based on the traditional plant properties.
to foster special partnerships with major players in the global beauty industry. The new distribution agreement between Unicare Ingredients and Southern Cross Botanicals will see its extensive portfolio of active ingredients, complex harvests, vegetable oils, exfoliants,
responsible drying technology maintains the highest concentration of extracts on the market. The consistency of this high concentration ensures
This unique expertise has allowed Southern Cross Botanicals
essential oils and plant extracts made available to the South African cosmetics industry. Local brands and manufacturers will also benefit from the technical support provided by Southern Cross Botanicals.
Cosme-Phytami Lemon is available locally from IMCD South Africa; Alban Muller offers full traceability of the active ingredient from the plant and extract to the finished product.
SMART WARMING INGREDIENT FROM SYMRISE THERMOLAT, SYMRISE’S NEW
effects such as redness and stinging,
positive impact on the mood balance
sensory ingredient, creates a feeling
which might occur with VBE. This
upon application at one percent and
like gentle warm sunshine on skin.
innovation also sees Symrise adding to
can easily be associated with feelings
The company developed the active
its portfolio of sensory offerings, which
of well-being and satisfaction.
complex for use in creams, gels and
includes the long-established cooling
balms. The ingredient is characterised
range, Frescolat.
by its pleasant, relaxing and long-
Thermolat can also be used to
being applied on skin. The warming
lasting effects that don’t convey
enhance the perceived efficacy of a
sensation may last up to two hours.
feelings of stinging or burning.
personal care product. Symrise has
The ingredient recently received a BSB
developed a test method to evaluate
Innovation Prize for cosmetics, natural
effect achieved with vanillyl butyl ether
the sensation generated by the topical
products and their basic materials, and
(VBE), Thermolat provides a controlled
application of a cosmetics product.
it won the 2017 PCHi innovation award
approach and helps reduce side
The results show that Thermolat has a
in China.
In comparison to the warming
6
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Thermolat is odourless, liquid and starts working within five minutes of
NEWS
WHO WILL LEAD
PHARMA LICENSING DEALS IN 2018?
Top 10 companies by partnership and licensing deal values completed in 2017
CO M PLIAN CE CO LU M N
Claim to fame or failed campaign Making suitable claims on cosmetics products can be tricky. Jill Gardiner tackles this issue in the second edition of the P C Review Compliance Column.
C THE PHARMACEUTICAL INDUSTRY is highly volatile with promising lead candidates making or breaking a company’s year. According to GlobalData, the financial success of companies is often down to the strategic deals they can make with other pharmaceutical companies and research organisations to enable their drug development strategies. The US$8.5 billion agreement between AstraZeneca and Merck to co-develop AstraZeneca’s Lynparza (olaparib) for multiple cancer types put the two companies at the top for strategic alliance spending in 2017. AstraZeneca just clinched the top spot from Merck with its development deals with Pieris Pharmaceuticals and MedImmune. Lisa Marris, healthcare analyst at GlobalData, comments: ‘Despite this, Merck had an arguably more successful year. It more than quadrupled its alliance deal values since 2016, and if its subsidiaries are added to the equation, its 2017 deal values rise to US$9.5 billion, an increase of 248 percent from 2016, whereas AstraZeneca and its subsidiaries stayed almost stagnant at US$11 billion.’ Pieris Pharmaceuticals also had good year, making alliances in 2017 worth more than 35 times to those made in 2016. However, it is unlikely to do as well this year, as the 2017 value was primarily due to its US$2.2 billion co-development deal with AstraZeneca, alongside a US$1.8 billion licensing agreement with Les Laboratoires Servier. She continues: ‘The development agreement with AstraZeneca will help Pieris enhance its inhaled drug candidates for respiratory diseases, whereas the collaboration with Servier will advance Pieris’ immune-oncology programmes, led primarily by PRS-332, a PD-1-targeting bispecific checkpoint inhibitor.’ Allergan and Novartis both experienced slower years than 2016, with decreases in partnership and licensing deal value by 44 and five percent respectively. However, both companies still
laims always need to be made in a cosmetic sense and not a medicinal sense and should be guided by Appendix B of the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) Code of Practice. The cosmetic context has the typical characteristics of: • temporary action • i mprovement of the appearance of the skin • to be used regularly to maintain the effect • t he effect is aimed at grooming and enhancing the appearance of the skin texture. The medicinal context has the typical characteristics of: • permanent or drastic effects after completion of a treatment • healing or curative effects • to be used restrictively because of potency of the treatment • t he effect is aimed at treatment of or relieving a disease condition. Armed with this information, you are now ready to determine acceptable claims for cosmetics. However, you are not out of the woods yet, as all claims require substantiation. So, what does this entail? • Claims relating to points of difference must have appropriate scientific substantiation defined as: Substantiation based on statistically valid data, employing a validated, proven, scientific method and applicable to the claim being made. • Scientific substantiation will be judged according to international standards. Once you have your substantiation in place it is critical to review the claims to ensure that you have not created any unacceptable claims. So, what are unacceptable claims? These are claims that are used and not substantiated, or claim statements not worded in a cosmetic sense. In general, no cosmetic claims for products used on mucous membranes (except the mouth) will be allowed. Claims suggesting permanent effects of cosmetics may not be used, e.g. permanent improvement, reversal of deterioration etc. Substantiation is key in the claim to fame or failed campaign game. You must always ensure the substantiation provided is adequate to support the claim. Do not allow marketing to tweak the claim so that it sounds more grand or convincing, but is no longer substantiated, as this could be your downfall. In the next Compliance Column, we will take a closer look at those specific claim areas that lend themselves to scrutiny by competitors and consumers. Join us in July to find out more. •
closed big deals in 2017. Ultimately, GlobalData expects 2018 is likely to be Merck’s year in terms of R&D collaboration.
Jill Gardiner is an independent industry expert and educator.
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
7
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
10 to 13 June Century City, Cape Town www.conference.sapics.org
10
The microbiome: more than a trend and key to skin care
G
//
ON THE
WEB WITH
www.pharmacos.co.za/skin-care/2176 IVAUDAN CONTINUES TO invest in Active Beauty and its metagenomics platform.
The company’s main aim here is to boost its pioneering position in the microbiome market. As the only fragrance company with in-house microbiome research capabilities, Givaudan remains committed to making strategic investments that will push the boundaries of scientific innovation. Following the installation of state-of-the-art automation equipment at the Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence in Toulouse, France, the company will accelerate the high throughput screenings (HTS) to offer more disruptive solutions for customers. With over 15 years’ experience in the field
Expert scientists at Givaudan were the
of microbiomics, Givaudan Active Beauty
first to discover the creation of ‘microbiome
the creation of new active cosmetics
continues to develop active cosmetics
activated’ ingredients as well as
ingredients in microbiomics. I’m very proud
ingredients, available in South Africa
‘microbiome protecting’ agents, resulting
of the team in our Applied Microbiomics
from The Care Co., which are designed
in two award-winning active ingredients:
Centre of Excellence which is constantly
to activate, protect or balance the
Brightenyl and Revivyl.
pioneering the ingredients of tomorrow. This
skin microbiota.
Brightenyl, the first microbiome activated
fascinating for a fragrance house to lead
also includes our teams around the world
skin brightener, won a Gold and Bronze
working alongside our customers to create
says: ‘Not only are these investments in
Innovation Award in 2015 at in-cosmetics
inventive new products for their markets.’
line with our 2020 strategy, our astonishing
Global and in-cosmetics Latin America,
advancements in microbiomics also allow
respectively. The first holistic skin renewal
microbiome and the key drivers as to why
us to bring ground-breaking concepts
accelerator, Revivyl won Gold for Best
Givaudan Active Beauty created Brightenyl
to new and existing customers. As the
Innovation Award at in-cosmetics Latin
and Revivyl are detailed in a new white
microbiome trend continues to grow, our
America and in-cosmetics Asia in 2017.
paper entitled Leadership in Microbiomics
Laurent Bourdeau, head of Active Beauty,
teams will be at the forefront of this area of scientific research.’
Maurizio Volpi, president of Givaudan’s fragrance division, comments: ‘It’s
STAYING UP TO DATE Subscribe to P C Review’s e-newsletters to receive the latest information on industry developments, events, trade shows, seminars and launches, both local and international. Log onto www.pharmacos.co.za or send an e-mail to Lerato.Mareletse@newmediapub.co.za to activate your e-newsletter subscription.
The company’s expert vision on the skin
for Cosmetics. Visit www.pharmacos.
co.za/skin-care/2176 for more information.
FIND US Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review @SApharmacos
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
9
STREET Optimum hydration for your skin Coverderm’s Maxydrat
New trial sizes and travel packs
Optiphi has released a series of travel packs and trial kits for various skin care needs and concerns. First from the South African skin care brand is an Active Travel Kit with four products to cleanse, protect, moisturise and rejuvenate the skin. The Classic Travel Kit offers a multi-defence system in the form of four products that cleanse, hydrate and protect skin. The Post Peel Travel Kit is the perfect post procedure solution to gently purify, moisture and protect skin. Optiphi skin treatments and products are available
hydration systems are formulated with betaine, which mimics skin’s hydration mechanism, ensuring water is transported into each cell for optimum hydration. The Maxydrat Serum offers a concentrated, extra-strong formula with long-lasting anti-ageing ingredients to boost hydration and combat wrinkles. Other products in the range include Maxydrat Visage and Maxydrat Yeux. Coverderm’s Maxydrat products are available countrywide at select Dis-Chem stores as well as online at www.dischem.co.za and www.coverderm.co.za.
nationwide at selected spas and professional salons. Visit www. optiphi.com for more information.
Softest wipe in bulk pack size
Cherubs Newborn Baby Wipes offer a gentle cleanse with purified water as a key ingredient. According to the brand, they are the first wipes in South Africa to be offered in a 100s pack size to meet consumers’ demands for bulk packs that are more practical and budget friendly. Each pack has a clip lid to prevent moisture loss while the wipes are enriched with vitamin E and Aloe Vera. Cherubs Newborn Baby Wipes cost R36.99 and are available nationwide at all leading retailers.
Jordan makes a
comeback
ACDOCO SA is bringing the global oral care brand Jordan back into the country. The company has launched five ranges in South Africa, including the Step-by-Step kids range, precision Jordan Target range, Ultimate You (a Red Dot Design winner), Jordan Individual – the brand’s bestselling toothbrush – and Expert Clean, which includes advanced Clean tech bristle technology and GumCare bristles. The ranges are available nationwide at Clicks and in Gauteng at selected Spars.
Care for hair organically Pure Beginnings Balancing Shampoo is SLS free and formulated with gentle surfactants. The product also contains Organic Argan oil to build hair’s strength and organic Aloe Vera to balance and soothe the scalp. Its Balancing Conditioner is formulated with a combination of Marula, Argan, Coconut and Jojoba oils. Aloe and Baobab fruit extract soothe the scalp while a unique combination of Rosemary and Ylang Ylang leave hair with a subtle, yet invigorating aroma. Both products are suitable for the entire family, cost R109.95 for 250ml and are free from silicones, sulphates, parabens or colourants.
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Creativity TOUCHING YOUR SENSES.
Proud partners of O6 Agencies in Southern and Eastern Africa.
Swiss quality since 1926. LUZI fragrance compounds is a family-owned Swiss company that specialises in the development of unique scents for fine fragrances, personal care, home and air care. Our scents are carefully created to contribute to the success of our clients’ products, always considering the latest trends and innovations.
LUZI • Switzerland • Malaysia • www.luzi.ch
COMPANY FOCUS
The direct selling effect –
how fragrances are changing lives O6 Agencies has launched Ross & Foxwell to provide entrepreneurs with tools and training to grow sustainable businesses using direct selling. P C Review finds out more about the workings of this new division and shares Luzi’s new fragrance trends, developed specifically for South Africa. successful that it has turned into a fully functional division, which Richard says needed its own identity. So, Ross & Foxwell was launched. Ross & Foxwell’s typical customer is a basic to middle class millennial with entrepreneurial flair and the desire to earn extra income. In Alexandra (Johannesburg), Ross & Foxwell’s move to empower entrepreneurs with a sustainable business solution has really taken off. ‘We’ve seen a number of mini direct selling networks established within the community with various entrepreneurs working
DID YOU KNOW?
W
hen O6 Agencies first launched its ‘small
options to entrepreneurs
Considering the high unemployment rate in South Africa,
idea how much of an impact their idea
direct selling is a good solution to
would have on the informal sector.
overcoming this ongoing economic and social challenge. There is no
offering business training and mentoring
barrier to entry to become a direct
to entrepreneurs looking to set up their
seller. You don’t need any particular
own direct selling companies,’ says
level of education or training; direct
Adam. ‘On the first two Saturdays of every
selling doesn’t require any retail
month, we collect customers at central
infrastructure and can be done from
points and bring them to our office in
home and you don’t need to do it full
Midrand for a start to finish workshop on
time. What you do need is the tools
how to establish a sustainable fragrance
and training to help you develop your
business using mini direct selling models.
value proposition and go-to-market
We also provide the tools and products
strategy, which is what O6 Agencies
needed to get started in the form of a
offers. In fact, its ‘small business
starter pack.’
Saturdays’ project has become so Carmen Aimee Owen
12
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
of fragrances we offer,’ Adam explains. ‘One
While Ross & Foxwell is
helping entrepreneurs build
team, Richard and Adam Owen had no
‘We started the project last year,
certain parts of the range
Direct selling provides many customer has been exciting career opportunities within so successful that he a corporate environment. The business model has also enjoyed exponential gave up his quantity global growth through offering lowsurveying job to cost micro business and flexible concentrate full time income generating opportunities on his direct selling to millions of people. Source Michaela-Ann McLachlan fragrance business.’ www.dsasa.co.za showing some new fragrance
business Saturdays’, joint MDs and father and son
together, each carrying
sustainable businesses, develop brands and make a living, the
COMPANY FOCUS success of the division has also provided
the usability and experience of products.
employment for three new staff members.
We’ve noticed local consumers are looking
Ultimately, Richard would like to expand
for authentic experiences and turning to
Ross & Foxwell into East Africa. He explains,
traditional rituals. In response, Luzi has
‘Although the market is still very nervous
focused on creating scents that mimic
of the concept, we are making headway
clay, roots, natural South African barks
through education to change negative
and volcanics, offering a back to basics
perceptions and get customers started.
campaign interlaced with that traditional
I believe the potential for a direct selling
ritual feeling,’ Adam comments.
market in East Africa could be bigger than South Africa because the region is so diverse, and its people trade extensively among themselves.’
Signature scents for Africa O6 Agencies is the official agent for Luzi in South Africa and East Africa. The Swiss producer of fragrance compounds rebranded last year and in 2016, it launched a manufacturing plant in Malaysia. These developments have been particularly beneficial to O6 Agencies from a logistical and economical perspective. Luzi Malaysia reflects the company’s confidence in the expansion of the
Ross & Foxwell’s move to empower entrepreneurs with a sustainable business solution has really taken off
Asia Pacific market and demonstrates its strong commitment to these and
Mystic Energy will resonate with
other developing markets, like South
consumers looking for authenticity and
Africa. The new facility strengthens the
a disconnect from modern technology
company’s growth strategy, supports
and the ‘always-on’ hype. The simplicity,
its customers with speed to market and
comfort and warmth of traditional rituals
is something that all South Africans like,
significantly improves its manufacturing
and ceremonial beauty are becoming
whether they admit it or not. We’ve been
capacity. The plant features state-of-the
increasingly appealing as consumers
working with Luzi to create the right rose
art equipment including automated
revisit ancestral care. This is changing
fragrance for the local market using a
dosing and production process systems
the marketing messages of beauty and
balsamic amber note with soft rose water
and brings superior quality and value to
personal care brands, which no longer focus
petal and oriental shimmering earthy
Luzi’s customers.
solely on a product’s benefits but also the
tones. It’s delicate, not over complex, and
entire semi-mystical experience surrounding
contains woody and fresh floral elements
African customers is also evident in the Luzi
a product. Key fragrances in this trend are:
with soft rose water notes.’
2018 Fragrance Trends, with 40 percent of
• Fancy Magma, which incorporates the
The company’s commitment to its
O6 Agencies’ offices are situated in Corporate Park North, Midrand
Creating the right fragrances for locally
its beauty and fragrance trends tailored to
liveliness of pink grapefruit infused with
developed products is a major business
the needs of the South African market.
an earthy-fruity aroma and resinous
driver for O6 Agencies. ‘We’ve seen many
balsamic elements, electrified by deep
of the big retailers refocusing on their core
metallic notes
products, creating personal care and
‘Apart from creating signature scents for South Africa, Luzi is also placing a great deal of emphasis on
• Woodargil, a composition that opens
beauty products as line extensions of these
with a rough white clay accord giving
heritage brands. O6 Agencies is proud to
the scent an earthy touch while mystic
be involved in a number of these projects,
wood elements celebrate oriental cults,
supplying fragrances for these locally
lightened with a cheerful enchanting
developed and produced products,’
floral freshness
says Richard.
• Energetic Flash, exploding with the
The company is also supplying the key
pure freshness of green floral notes and
fragrance ingredient in South Africa’s first
powdery accents, this scent reminds one
locally developed and produced premium
of a faint spark or water before it reaches
retail skin care range, which is set to
boiling point.
launch early next year. •
Adam says Woodargil is ideal for washoff products, including shampoos, body washes and bath oils. He’s also noticed that rose is making a comeback in South Africa, but not in its traditional form. ‘Rose
O6 Agencies – adam@o6southafrica.com Ross & Foxwell – sales@o6southafrica.com
Fifi Maseko
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
13
R&D in the spotlight at
in-cosmetics If you’re heading to Amsterdam in April and need some help planning your visit to in-cosmetics Global 2018, P C Review has an overview of the exhibition highlights and key focus areas.
T
aking place from 17 to 19 April at RAI
Emerging trends and textures
Amsterdam, in-cosmetics Global will host
Show visitors will be the first to discover how Dow’s
around 9 000 visitors from more than 100
newest skin care technology opens up attractive
countries. Known as the personal care
possibilities for consumers to embrace ageing.
industry’s most interactive ingredients exhibition,
The company’s experts will highlight innovative
the event will provide a one-stop-shop for
textures based on its extensive technical expertise
manufacturers to enhance business relationships,
in rheology modification to help create new and
learn about the latest trends and get a first-hand
appealing textures. It will also showcase a ground-
look at novel ingredients.
breaking SPF-boosting technology designed for
A series of ‘silent’ tours are scheduled for
inorganic UV absorbers. Dow’s Trendslab 2018 and
the expo, exclusively for R&D professionals and
its trendy formulation concepts for skin and hair will
sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry, focusing on
reveal how societal values in motion inspire new
two of the industry’s major trends – biotechnology
product concepts and formulations. Join Dow at
actives and the future of anti-ageing. The tours have been designed to ensure busy R&D professionals efficiently navigate the event’s must-see areas and learn more about exhibitors’ innovations,
stand F20 to discover new products, solutions and formulation blueprints that inspire
DID YOU KNOW? The new Boost your Test initiative
ideas, resonate with emerging trends and enrich customers’ lives.
is an interactive area dedicated to the Natural skin care actives subject of cosmetics testing. Staged in At stand A10, Greentech will partnership with Skinobs, Boost your product development. showcase Urbalys, a multi-purpose Test will feature three different Another new initiative is the halfmethods of cosmetics testing: anti-pollution skin care ingredient human; in vitro; and testing day Regulatory Conference, taking that eliminates free radicals, increases using high-tech place on 16 April at 14h00 CET, in devices. skin’s natural defence mechanism partnership with Conusbat. and has anti-inflammatory properties. The ensuring they leave the show brimming with ideas for new
The show will also see cosmetics
company’s unique pharmaceutical approach to
giants go head-to-head in the hotly
develop cosmetics ingredients allows Greentech to
anticipated Formulation Challenge. Six
develop high-quality products that meet or exceed
leading manufacturers will be tasked
customers’ needs. The reliability of its ingredients
with creating an innovative formulation
is proven by the company’s ability to maintain a
from a box of mystery raw materials in just
leading position in producing natural and organic
90 minutes. The in-cosmetics Innovation Zone will once again provide a launch pad for more
actives from plants, marine and microbial sources. Greentech is represented in South Africa by Natchem.
than 100 state-of-the-art concepts. This everpopular area allows time-pressed R&D
Sun Chemical Performance Pigments, represented
one place, mitigating the need to scour
in South Africa by The Care Co., will highlight
the show floor.
its wide range of pearlescent and bold effect
Visit www.in-cosmetics.com for more information about In-cosmetics Global 2018 or to register to attend the expo.
14
Bold effect pigments
scouts to find the latest ingredients all in
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
pigments. It will also participate in the in-cosmetics Make-Up Bar, where visitors are invited to discover trendsetting colour cosmetic ingredients and test
VISIT THE FORMULATION LAB THE IN-COSMETICS Formulation Lab has become renowned worldwide as a unique platform that provides an opportunity for delegates to learn, from top suppliers, how to maximise the potential of their ingredients. Set in a purpose-built facility, the interactive Formulation Lab sessions bring together the industry’s most highly skilled experts to deliver a series of hands-on demonstrations by formulation prototypes. Guests who visit
The Institute of Personal Care Science and some
formulation challenges. Visit stand B10
Sun Chemical at stand A60 will learn about
of the world’s most innovative suppliers.
to find out more about the speciality ingredients from its suppliers and the
the enhanced Inteza family of pearlescent to prevent photoaeging by offering the
sophisticated formulation technologies to
with only synthetic mica substrates.
skin triple protection against UF, infra-red
create innovative finished products.
The combination of certified organic
and blue light radiation. A selection of
colourants with synthetic mica provides
unique botanicals from around the world,
superior chroma, exceptional sparkle, and
Actismart extracts have been prized
Go natural with calcium carbonate
lower residual heavy metals compared
for their beauty enhancing, spiritual
Omya Consumer Goods, a CJP
to natural mica substrates. Designed for
and natural values. These extracts are
Chemicals principal, will present its
formulating unique colours and effects,
also supported by in vitro efficacy data.
range of versatile calcium carbonates
its SunShine pearlescent pigments can
The company will also launch a new
that satisfy multiple global consumer
make formulations sparkle and shine.
and surprising marketing concept in
trends. At A160, Omya will highlight
This family of pure synthetic mica-based
Amsterdam targeting millennials.
innovative ingredients that anticipate the
effect pigments, which are now created
demands of tomorrow. The company’s
pearlescent pigments has a high degree of transparency, brilliant sparkle and a
Constantly evolving
core products are the Omyacare
broad range of particle sizes.
IMCD Personal Care is equipped to move
range of natural, pure white minerals
as fast as the market changes. With
with several mastered particle sizes;
Expect the unexpected
a team of technical experts and their
Omyascrub for scrubbing applications;
Lipotec, a Savannah Fine Chemicals
extensive knowledge and insight, the
Omyaskin for decorative cosmetics
principal, will present several novelties
global company is constantly evolving
and Omyadent functional particles for
at stand C30. To promote microbiota
to bring the very latest innovations and
toothpaste applications.
balance and reinforce the physical barrier
consumer trends to customers. At in-
function, Fensebiome peptide helps
cosmetics Global, IMCD will show how
IR blockers on show
prevent dehydration and strengthens
it adapts to keep ahead of the ever-
Infrared radiations, in particular near
the skin. Lumicease blue ingredient is a
changing industry, helping customers
infrared (IR-A), have the ability to
new biotechnological active developed
enhance their products and overcome
penetrate deep into the dermis. Recent
BOTANY TO BODY Stem Cells Hydroglycerine Extracts Propylene Glycol Extracts Hydrosols Organic Essential Oils Essential Oils Specialized Actives Indigenous Extracts Indigenous Oils
Quick sample delivery
Technical assistance
Small MOQ’s (1kg to 5kg)
Competitive prices
CONTACT CHANTAL O’BRIEN–DE VILLIERS
072 731 3909 www.materiamedica.co.za
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
15
CENTRED ON EDUCATION
studies have shown they generate free
Skin and body care actives
radicals and produce other harmful
At stand G60, Sederma will showcase
biological effects to the skin resulting in
PoreTect, a new eco-designed active
ageing and wrinkles. Kobo has screened
ingredient that acts as a skin texture
numerous particulate materials and
rejuvenator, smoothing skin grain and
selected two specific grades of titanium
uncovering its natural radiance. If you’re
dioxide, which showed a great capacity
looking for something new for body care,
education2018/marketing-trends-2018/ for the
to block IR-A. These materials are offered
Sederma will share more on Hydronesis, a
marketing trends and www.in-cosmetics.com/
with a variety of surface treatments and
biotechnological body beautifier active
education2018/technical-seminars-2018/ for
will be showcased at its stand F100, at in-
obtained by fermentation of the pink lake
the technical seminars.
cosmetics. Kobo is represented locally by
microorganism that gives an irresistible
Cosmetic Ingredients.
touch to the skin, reducing keratosis pilaris
Four in one for men
and post-waxing redness. With pollution
ChemyUnion, represented locally by
still a hot topic, some new autophagy data
Chemgrit Cosmetics, will showcase
Clariant invites formulators to stand H90 to
will be presented on its anti-pollution plant
a functional skin care ingredient that
experience its new sustainable innovations.
cell culture extract, Citystem.
acts as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial
Sustainable innovations
THE WORLD-RENOWNED Marketing and Technical Seminars Theatres will deliver hot-off-the-press consumer trends, analysis and research data, as well as information on the latest relevant regulatory changes. To plan your diary for these not-to-bemissed sessions, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/
The company will confront hair’s
agent, providing formulators
vulnerability head-on with a range
greater chances of diversification
of new conditioning ingredients.
in terms of product preservation.
Meticulous research and a whole
Its synergetic combination of xylitol
new scientific approach yield
esters and caprylyl glycol make
the potential to revolutionise the
this unique product compatible
global hair care market. New
with several cosmetics formulations
hair conditioning formulations
that are great for micellar waters
showcased at the stand will
and wet wipes. It will also reveal a
give visitors a chance to feel the
new natural and multifunctional
difference. Clariant’s new active
skin care solution for men, with four
ingredients include an exciting
benefits in a single active. Also on
innovation inspired by the works of
show is the company’s exclusive
the 2017 Nobel Prize for Medicine
hair straightening system, which
or Physiology. Made from a natural
reduces hair fibre damage. This
plant extract, this new active
system increases hair’s diameter,
ingredient will contribute to the
protects it from breakage, promotes
protection of the cells’ biological
a long-lasting straightening effect
rhythms to prevent the appearance
and improves shine through a
of skin fatigue.
synergistic combination of sericin
Hybrid silicone treated pigments
Sculpt and firm curves Sarcoslim Re-Shape PRCF is the
and wheat protein.
Shin-Etsu (stand F90) will introduce a
latest innovation from Vytrus Biotech,
Pigments and additives
range of highly functional pigments,
represented locally by Savannah Fine
Venator Materials will promote a
the KTP-09 series, for colour cosmetics.
Chemicals. This product has a lipo-
range of high purity products. The
Using Shin-Etsu’s unique silicone/alkyl
sculpting effect. It activates lipolysis and
company’s pigments and additives
branching hybrid silicone technology for
uses part of this energy to rebuild the skin’s
are integral to the look and feel of all
surface treatment, these pigments offer
structure (ECM: collagen and elastin).
kinds of cosmetics, skin and dental
a range of benefits such as increased
It is said to prevent skin’s sagginess as a
care formulations. Its colour pigments
hydrophobicity, excellent wetting and
result of slimming and dieting. Sarcoslim
deliver dramatic, long-lasting results
improved dispersibility in a wide range of
Re-Shape PRCF shows good anti-
in mascaras, eyeshadows, lipsticks,
inflammatory and anti-oxidant benefits
blushers and many other make up
in vitro. The ingredient’s efficacy is also
products. Venator’s titanium dioxide
with a light and silky feel.
proven in vivo and ex vivo, where human
pigments provide a flawless finish in
KTP-09 pigments can
skin explants were treated with HCl to
foundations and help to give concealers
be used in liquid, fluid
induce damage similar to that of fattening
and correcting creams consistent
and powder foundations
skin. Results showed the product was able
coverage capabilities. It also offers
where they enhance
to maintain cell membrane structures,
specialist titanium dioxide grades
the formulator’s choice
stimulate metabolic activity, reduce the
for anti-ageing skin care treatments,
accumulated lipid content and regenerate
ultra-natural baby care products and
collagen and elastin. Visit stand C318e to
sunscreen formulations. Its well-known
find out more about Sarcoslim Re-Shape
Hombitan, UV-Titan, Ferroxide, Sicovit,
PRCF, which is produced using plant stem
Trupure and ultramarine products will be
cell cultures of Sarcocapnos crassifolia.
on show at in-cosmetics Global. •
oils. They also provide good adhesion to skin combined
of various oils ranging from silicone to natural, while reducing coloured streaks and precipitation. Shin-Etsu is represented in South Africa by CJP Chemicals.
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Quintessence creates
beauty through innovation
With the expertise and capabilities to develop and produce unique products and cuttingedge concepts, Quintessence Collections is committed to innovation through quality procedures and a passion for manufacturing.
T
his Pretoria-based company
and brand owners, manufacturing
services a wide range of market
body and skin care products on a third
segments, including contract
party basis. Subsequently Ann’s sons,
manufacturing, distribution, retail
Julian Rogers along with Hentie van
and new product development. Through
Zyl joined the business, which saw the
the implementation of new and innovative
company evolving into a 100 percent
systems and procedures, Quintessence
owner managed family business. ‘We believe the secret to a successful
Collections ensures it always operates at
product offering is a hands-on
its optimum. The business was established in 1995 by Ann Rogers to service retailers, corporates
approach. To this end, all members are actively involved in the day-to-day running of the business, ensuring efficient and effective procedures with the offering
YOUR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PARTNER
Quintessence Collections family focused management team: Ann, Julian and Hentie
of the highest possible quality of products,’ Julian explains. ‘Our business is our pride
The company currently offers a wide
and joy; we are deeply committed to
range of products suitable to many
QUINTESSENCE COLLECTIONS HAS created
the well-being of our customers and
markets, including retail, spas and salons,
a highly specialised NPD procedure to
consumers.’
hotel amenities, direct selling and high-
ensure a final product is exactly what was
end skin care. ‘The latter is our area of
originally conceptualised. R&D is based on a
Flexible and focused
predetermined quotation, supplied information
Quintessence Collections has the
care products formulated with the latest
and includes a confidentiality agreement to
capacity to manufacture and pack a
and greatest actives sourced from all over
ensure the protection of the client’s IP. This
vast range of skin, body and bath care
the world is my passion. We’re equipped
service includes:
products, with minimum batch size
to develop and produce cleansers, toners,
• discussions regarding product requirements
requirements starting from five kilograms
moisturisers, creams, exfoliants and scrubs,
on selected products.
as well as more specialised products such
and understanding of expectations
‘Our filling lines are suited to fill products
• formulation and sample submission
specialisation. Creating cutting-edge skin
as eye treatments, anti-ageing serums,
• stability testing in approved packaging
across a wide range of viscosities, such
products to address pigmentation and
• ingredient and allergen listing composition
as eau de parfum, hand and body
dark spots, and face masks.’ •
• product dossiers as required for local and
lotions, bath creams, body butters and
export markets • specific tests and safety assessments.
gel products. We can also assist with filling and sealing of tubes of smaller product runs,’ he explains.
Quintessence Collections – www.quintessence.co.za
uintessence collections cc.
At Quintessence Collections we manufacture a wide range of quality skin, body and bath care products for the retail, professional treatment, and corporate markets 426 Skilder Street | Silvertondale | Pretoria +27 12 804 7545 | +27 12 804 6443 info@quintessence.co.za | www.quintessence.co.za
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
17
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Choose your contractor wisely As an industry leader, Wrapsa strives to remain at the forefront of the technology curve in process and manufacturing technologies. P C Review shares a number of reasons why the company is an ideal contract manufacturing partner for brand owners.
W
rapsa manufactures over 1 000 different products for various customers in the pharmaceutical, complementary medicines
The new analytical lab at Wrapsa
Consistently compliant
(CAMs), personal care, food and beverage, and
Manufacturing, be it third party or in house,
veterinary industries. The business is built on the
plays a critical role in South Africa in terms of
pillars of contract manufacturing and packing,
securing local product supply and providing
also referred to as third party manufacturing,
employment. In the pharmaceutical industry,
which include Good Manufacturing Practices
contract manufacturers have become major
(GMP), complete confidentiality for its customers
players with a large portion of multinational
Wrapsa is a good fit for your business if you’re looking for a contract manufacturer that doesn’t compromise on quality
and guaranteed continued supply
companies having divested in the country over
of products.
the last couple of years. In order to maintain its leading position as
Wrapsa is a good fit for your business if you’re looking for a contract
a contract manufacturer, Wrapsa has made
manufacturer that doesn’t compromise
capital investments in its capabilities and various
on quality, is licensed by the Medicines
facilities, which are ongoing. Since 2007, the
Control Council and doesn’t own or
company has invested in excess of R80 million to
produce its own brands or products.
upgrade its manufacturing and packing facility
‘Our focus on being a bona fide
and adjacent warehouses. According to Jannie
contractor has stayed the same
Nel, responsible pharmacist at Wrapsa, its most
for the past 34 years,’ says Nardus
recent expansion projects include an industry-
Alberts, CEO of Wrapsa. ‘This
leading plant to produce anti-retrovirals and a
makes us unique. Considering
dedicated laboratory with world-class analytical
we’re privy to extensive
equipment, offering full analytical testing and
confidential information, from the outset we chose not to
compete with our customers. This is an area of utmost sensitivity for Wrapsa and the main reason why we never developed any in-house brands.’ Wrapsa caters for small to very large production runs.
stability testing services for CAMs and
DID YOU KNOW?
pharma products. In addition to pharma contract manufacturing and packing,
Wrapsa is MCC licenced, cGMP Wrapsa has customers in the compliant, and ISO 22 000 and ISO 9001:2015 accredited. It is a veterinary, food supplements member of the Aerosol Manufacturer’s and cosmetics industries. ‘These Association of South Africa, the Health clients include local as well as Products Association of South Africa and the Generic and Biosimilar global multinational companies,’ Medicines Association of says Louis Alberts, Wrapsa’s logistics Southern Africa. manager. ‘We are in many ways an extension of our customers’ business and will create infrastructure within our factory for their specific needs, should the volumes justify this.’ Ultimately, Wrapsa is a world-class company and a preferred manufacturing and packing contractor in South Africa. Because it is built on the premise of meeting the needs of brand owners that choose not to manufacture their own products – it is the perfect contractor with which to partner. •
Wrapsa’s ARVs production plant
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Wrapsa – www.wrapsa.co.za
Manufacturing • Liquids - Syrups - Suspensions - Emulsions • Creams/ointments/gels • Powders/granules • Tablets (uncoated/sugar-coated/film coated) • Capsules • Caplets • Lozenges
Packing • Blister and strip packing of capsules, tablets, softgel caps and caplets • Sachet filling- liquids, powders, cream and ointments • Tube filling (aluminium, plastic and laminated) • Shrink-wrapping • Filling (creams, powders, liquids) • Flowpac/pillow packing of various products • Tablet/capsule packing into containers • Aerosol filling
Laboratory Services Fully Equipped stability laboratory offering: • Stability tests • Research & Development
Confidentiality The company enforces a strict confidentiality code. Full documentation accompanies all work.
Certification MCC Licence; GMP Certificate; ISO 9001:2008 and ISO 22000:2005
WRAPSA (PTY) LTD Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8 | Fax: +27 (0) 12 653 0857 wrapsa@wrapsa.co.za
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Committed to
good skin care Clean label and natural and organic products are a speciality of Remancos. This contract manufacturer is dedicated to meeting the skin, hair and personal care needs of modern consumers. Orange Smoothie sugar scrub cubes
R
emancos was founded in 2009 by Candice Kalil. She has worked in the cosmetics industry for
the past 15 years and has extensive experience in formulating skin, body and hair care products.
Good skin care is becoming a culture that everyone wants
Kalil says her business is service driven.
Good skin care is becoming a culture that everyone wants. Referring to the growth of the cruelty-free market, she says millennials really do care and that Remancos has the passion, resilience and creativity to provide solutions to customers to successfully compete in the naturals market.
‘I have used my cosmetics technology
Natural and clean label
and marketing experience to form a
The company is committed to producing
and commitment to ensure that your
company that listens to its customers
clean label and natural products.
formulations are competitive,’ she adds.
and innovates, formulates and produces
‘Consumers have become more and
‘Remancos’ dedicated employees bring our
products in line with our customers
more educated on the “good” and
motto to life – “what the mind can conceive
intended concepts. Remancos has
“bad” ingredients. They scrutinise
Remancos can achieve”. We subscribe
become a recognised innovator in
ingredients listings and google the
to the saying “nature knows best” when it
designing and manufacturing personal
functions of ingredients, ultimately
comes to cosmetics products.’
care products at our new state-of-the-art
looking for cleaner, purer and more
production plant.’
natural products,’ Kalil explains.
‘We have the experience, expertise
A number of the ingredients its formulators use come directly from nature because Kalil places great emphasis on keeping the products her company produces as pure as possible. ‘There are several reasons why we are 100 percent committed to protecting consumers’ skin from harmful chemicals. Extensive research shows some chemicals in a lot of the skin care products we use are can be harmful to our bodies,’ she concludes. •
Remancos production facility in Strijdom Park, Johannesburg
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Remancos – www.remancos.co.za
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
A novel partner from start to finish
T
he biggest benefit of When outsourcing outsourcing your physical the production of your manufacturing and procurement to a contract range or product to a manufacturer is it gives you, the brand third-party supplier, owner, peace of mind knowing you’re Zinplex Cosmeceutical receiving continuous product quality with every delivery. This frees up the advises all brand brand owner to focus on marketing, owners to ensure their getting your products listed with retailers, manufacturer operates training sales staff, planning distribution and registering products to be exported. according to GMP. This Another benefit is you can save will give you peace of on various resources, such as time, mind, knowing that money and space, as the contract manufacturer handles well trained staff DID purchasing and storage are making YOU KNOW? of raw materials and All the equipment in Zinplex your product packaging. So you Cosmeceutical’s manufacturing can focus on sales in line with facility is replicated in its QC and and marketing to grow R&D laboratory. So, the company can benchmarked your brand. upscale or downscale according standards. to customers’ requirements and Consumer confidence
it can produce trial batches in the lab or even very small batches.
Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s well thought out facility aids the flow of the production process
also comes with
How can Zinplex help you? Zinplex Cosmeceutical has a fully equipped R&D and QC laboratory to help with the development of new products and stability testing of new and existing products. The company’s staff, with the help of consultants, aims to always be up to date on the latest trends and can offer valuable advice and guidance. Our manufacturing facility operates according to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP), is e-mark registered (for legal metrology), employs a formulator who is a member of Coschem while the company is a member of the CTFA and CECOSA. ‘Our customers can rest assured all manufacturing will be done under strict confidentiality and manufacturing
produced in a professional
agreements,’ says Karlien Ley, development
and controlled environment
and customer care manager at Zinplex
with all the quality checks
Cosmeceutical. ‘We specialise in
in place. Full traceability to
manufacturing skin, hair and body products
the source with each batch
(creams, washes, gels, lotions, butters, oils,
number will be available for
etc.) and can fill and seal bottles, tubes, jars
any future queries. With all
and sachets.’ •
on start-up costs, Zinplex
M
to go, to grow a successful brand.
manufacturer because your
these advantages and saving
C
contract manufacturing is really the only way
working with a contract
products are developed and
Zinplex Cosmeceutical Advert.pdf 1 2018/02/27 09:44:45
The QC and R&D laboratory at Zinplex Cosmeceutical
Cosmeceutical believes
Zinplex Cosmeceutical – cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za
Manufacturers of Cosmetic, Hair & Body Products
From Development to Production
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service • mark registered Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place. Production capabilities: Hair, Body and Skin Care, Liquid Sachet filling, Dry Product filling, Powders, Creams, Lotions, Butters, Gels and Oils. Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd. t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e: cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za
Terms and Conditions Apply
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
21
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Sustainable formulations for
affordable, high-value products At Cunningpac, teamwork is what delivers exceptional products, excellent service and lasting business relationships. This contract manufacturer offers unique packages with a one-stop shop focus to help brand owners get the best out of their ideas. By Abby Vorster
A
growing company with humble beginnings, Cunningpac was launched by three ex-Innoxa Cosmetics employees with the vision to
FULLY EQUIPPED AND FLEXIBLE
develop a third-party contract packing business based on consistently high-quality service offered
Cunningpac is home to the following
at a competitive price.
manufacturing and packing equipment:
‘We value relationships with our staff, suppliers and clients. Our objective is to facilitate the production ofnatural, organic and conventional skin care, cosmetics and cleaning products at prices that make them accessible to the average
• a fully automatic tube filler and sealer that can fill 40 tubes per minute, ranging in size from five millilitres to 250mℓ • a cartoning and overwrapping machine for
consumer. We do this while complying with
fine fragrances and perfumes, and high-end
all the requirements set by industry regulatory
cosmetics and skin care products.
authorities,’ says Graham Cunningham, director of Cunningpac. The company also specialises in producing
comes to packaging, which is a plus point for
fine fragrances and perfumes. ‘We’ve designed a
brand owners looking for unique shelf appeal for
smart processing machine for fragrances which
their products.
has seen us to reduce the altering and chilling
The company is equipped to meet the needs
process by 80 percent. For long runs, we can
of clients of all sizes. It can produce batch sizes
pack up to 10 000 50mℓ fragrance bottles per
from 10 to 500kg and, for big brands launching new products or updating existing ones,
day on our fully automated machine. Smaller perfume runs are packed manually,’ he explains.
A new place to call home
DID YOU KNOW?
Cunningpac can do test runs. This year, Cunningpac is celebrating its 10 th anniversary
Cunningpac is licensed by the South African Revenue Services to import a specific grade of alcohol for perfume production.
Cunningpac can assist clients with all aspects of product development including formulation development, fine-tuning of
existing formulations, upscaling and downscaling. Thanks to its extensive experience in
and ongoing and consistent growth. To support these developments, the company moved into new premises last year. The new manufacturing and packing plant has been set
up to facilitate rapid turnaround coupled with the thorough cleaning of all equipment between each batch. This ensures that Cunningpac can cost-effectively produce
manufacturing
small to medium sized batches of high-
and packing,
value products.
Cunningpac’s team can also
‘The design and layout of our new plant facilitates better flow and improved medicinal
advise on
manufacturing standards supported by
packaging dos
anti-bacterial paint and epoxy flooring,’ says
and don’ts. The
Cunningham. ‘We adhere strictly to GMP
company is very
and are Ecocert accredited. We are also
flexible when it
happy for customers to inspect our operating
MAJOR MILESTONES 2008
2011
2016
July 2017
Cunningpac is established and starts manufacturing.
The company receives its Ecocert approval to manufacture certified natural and organic cosmetics. This certification is reviewed annually through an audit process.
Management finds new, 1 300m² premises to support the growing business.
Cunningpac moves into its new plant in Mkondeni, Pietermaritzburg.
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING An inside look at Cunningpac
procedures and systems provided this doesn’t compromise on the confidentiality of another customer.’
A versatile contractor Cunningpac’s employees are its most important asset. Because the company’s processes require a lot of manual labour, Cunningpac is pleased to contribute
We can pack up to 10 000 50mℓ fragrance bottles per day on our fully automated machine
towards job creation in our currently job-
in line with the client’s requirements,’ says Cunningham. ‘Having an inventory of stock formulations also minimises development time. Some of our stock formulations include an eye serum, body lotion, mass market perfumes, a tissue oil, moisturising cream and body wash.’ Looking to the future, Cunningpac plans to establish a full R&D lab with technicians on site, though Cunningham says, this is
scarce country. ‘We employ 25 people and
and instead we use a non-ionic,
run one shift at the moment; we can easily
biodegradable surfactant with good
facilitate an additional shift if needed,’
dermatological compatibility and viscosity
packing equipment to our plant and plan
says Cunningham.
enhancing properties.
on introducing a fully automated process
Cunningpac can produce lotions, body
The company also has an extensive
dependent on industry demand. ‘We are in the process of adding sachet
vessel in 2019. This will accommodate bigger
butters, sun creams and anti-ageing
range of stock formulations. These are
batches from 1 000kg upwards, to satisfy
products. Toothpaste production is also
an ideal solution for entrepreneurs or
clients with larger volumes,’ he concludes. •
possible, as well as more sustainable
brand owners looking for something
hair, bath and body care products where
special, yet their budget is limited.
SLS is eradicated from the formulations
‘These formulations can be tweaked
Cunningpac – www.cunningpac.co.za
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
23
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Sachet gets closer to market with new facility Sachet Manufacturers is expanding its national footprint by investing in a state-of-the-art manufacturing and packing facility in Johannesburg. P C Review has the exclusive on this interesting industry development.
F
unit and bulk packs across a variety
High-end technology
of industries.
The new facility will be able to
After 18 months of industry research,
manufacture and pack a wide variety
management made a bold move
of liquid and powder home, personal
to conquer new frontiers in contract
and cosmetics products ranging from
manufacturing, branching out to
detergents and abrasives to creams
Johannesburg to be closer to its
and shampoos, as well as oral
DID YOU KNOW?
target market. ‘The multinational customers we have serviced for almost 30 years expressed the challenges
or the past 28 years, Sachet
they are facing with
Manufacturers (Sachet) has been
home, personal and
providing contract packing services
cosmetics contract
to the South African home, personal
manufacturing and
care products. Phase 1 of the
As a 100 percent black owned Level 1 BBBEE contributor, Sachet’s JHB facility investment will provide sustainable job creation and skills development. The company will also partner with local schools and training facilities to recruit young, recently qualified matriculants for its on-the-job learning interventions.
project aims to build a manufacturing capability of between 10 000 to 15 000t of product per annum. The next phase will focus on creating a leading R&D.
care and food industries. Starting as a small
asked us to consider
contract packing concern filling sachets
applying our principles of
in Durban, the business grew substantially
service excellence and quality in
over the last three decades to include the
this space,’ explains Amien Patel, MD
improved products that cater to their
packing of powders and liquids in low-
and founder of Sachet. ‘The market
specific needs. This is especially true
has highlighted location is key with
in Africa where the industry is looking
rising transport costs and proximity
for innovative ways to penetrate
to the supply and distribution chain
the Ethnic personal care and
being crucial components in making
cosmetics segment,’ highlights Riaz
products cost competitive. This lead
Dhai, financial director and head of
us to take the leap and expand our
commercial at Sachet. ‘Our vision is to
footprint to Johannesburg.’
provide technical support and value
‘Consumers aren’t
looking for the same products anymore. They are searching for
add to customers over the long term to Sachet Manufacturers has invested in the latest international technology, state-of-the-art water treatment solutions that support high end dermatologically certified products and efficient mixing and filling equipment
be able to win in the market.’ •
Sachet Manufacturers – www.sachet.co.za
Contract Manufacturing Excellence
Sachet Manufacturers
• Sachets • Powders • Renovation Centre • Projects • Home & Personal Care and Cosmetic Manufacturing Partner with us to accelerate your business
Sachet Manufacturers is a Grade A BRC accredited supplier
Tel +27 31 459 0033 • Email sales@sachet.co.za • www.sachet.co.za
24
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
ADVERTORIAL
Afriplex spreads its wings up north To facilitate the company’s current marketing drive and to create awareness of its products and services, Afriplex opened an office in Johannesburg and appointed a director of business development.
H
aving a Gauteng office will not only help Afriplex meet the needs of new and existing customers in the region, but also ensures service excellence for its customers in KwaZulu-Natal. The company’s head office and manufacturing facility are based in Paarl, in the Western Cape, so it has appointed Wayne Robinson, director of business development, to oversee the running of the Gauteng office. Previously, Robinson was the sales, operations and technical director as well as responsible pharmacist at a leading pharmaceutical and personal care contract manufacturer. He is also the director of scientific and regulatory affairs for the Health Products Association (HPA), is the HPA’s ITGCAMS representative and sits on the Industry Task Group that meets and interacts with the South African Health Products Regulatory
SERVICES TO ENSURE QUALITY PRODUCTS TO CONSUMERS Quality is not something stamped onto a product at the end of the line, it’s a crucial element in a product’s lifecycle. To ensure the consumer has access to quality products, Afriplex offers the following services to its customers: • inter- and post-production quality analysis • compiling of common technical documents (CTDs) • accelerated and longterm stability studies.
Authority (SAHPRA), previously known as the Medicines Control Council (MCC) and the Department of Health on regulatory matters. He comments: ‘I was drawn to Afriplex by the company’s proactive approach to want to comply with the CAMs regulations. Afriplex’s full GMP quality standards are comparable to some manufacturers of allopathic medicines. The instrument laboratory at its Cape Town facility is home to two high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) machines with a third on its way. Apart from HPLC testing, the company does thin layer chromatography analysis, which is a new testing method that very few laboratories in South Africa are equipped to perform.’ Robinson’s appointment will play a significant role in expanding and servicing the company’s customer base through use of his invaluable skills, experience and knowledge in the pharmaceutical, CAMs and food industries. His leadership and guidance will also strengthen and motivate the existing Afriplex team. He will also assist the company with its GMP upgrade proccess to secure its SAHPRA license. ‘To reach GMP compliance, you need to think outside the box. Afriplex is almost there,’ he explains. ‘I’ve visited the company’s Cape Town facility a few times and given compliance advice.
This has been implemented proactively to achieve the level of compliance required for CAMs manufacturing with the long-term view of achieving the level of GMP compliance required for pharmaceuticals.’
SYMPOSIUM HEADS TO JHB As part of its 2018 activities, the biennial Afriplex Technical Symposium will be hosted in Gauteng during the third quarter. The conference programme is set to feature esteemed local and international speakers, who will discuss topics that add value and relevance to the South African pharmaceutical landscape. Presentations will include talks on the manufacturing of cannabis-related pharmaceutical products for both medicinal and research purposes. In addition, Afriplex’s quality services and products will be showcased during the symposium. The programme, date and venue will be forwarded to clients and guests in due course. Afriplex’s presence in Gauteng is in line with the company’s commitment to adding value to its customers’ businesses – a commitment demonstrated by the Afriplex quality standards, its new product development drive and the recent facility upgrades.
info@afriplex.co.za | +27 (0)21 872 4976 +27 (0)86 578 1305 | www.afriplex.co.za Afriplex Pty Ltd
Afriplex Pty Ltd
@afriplex
Wayne Robinson
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
25
PHARMA FOCUS//Legislation & Regulations
Industry finds
new direction
centred on access and care
The 90s hype around new drug technologies is becoming a reality. Dr Thomas Kowallik from Novartis South Africa looks at the various factors propelling new and advanced pharmaceuticals in our country.
T
he world is benefiting from a wave
Preventative medicine is also
in AI. They are used by community health workers to monitor the general health of entire families, with a referral function to local clinics only when built-in algorithms indicate increased risk. Testing and diagnostic devices to monitor chronic conditions can
of pharma breakthroughs with
an area of rapid development.
be plugged into any smartphone to
targeted treatments and biologics
Researchers are working on
measure lung function or glucose
at the top of the list. On the back
promising treatments that halt
levels for example. These then transmit
of massive R&D investments, a pharma
disease progression processes before
data directly to the treating physician.
revolution has started with a wealth of
debilitation sets in. Biological products
Telemedicine using smartphones
innovative and more effective new drugs
to prevent migraines, Alzheimer’s
plays a role in serving remote areas
being licensed globally. This and the
Disease and recurrent major adverse
or providing a link-in to a specialist
availability of next-generation digital
cardiovascular events after
technologies to support research and
a heart attack are some
healthcare delivery are offering new hope
examples.
for patients. Comparing the 2012 to 2017 timeframe
Beyond the pill
physician, where needed, to
DID YOU KNOW?
ensure optimal diagnosis and treatment. These
Novartis has introduced a new mobile app, ViaOpta Hello, to empower South Africans living with blindness and severe visual impairment. The app is powered by Microsoft Cognitive Services and the Windows 10 Universal App Platform.
‘beyond the pill’ solutions are emerging
to the years from 2007 to 2011, the
Progress in R&D
average annual number of new drug
and healthcare
approvals in the USA has increased
delivery is being
by 46 percent. A significant proportion
driven by digitisation.
of new drug approvals have moved
Automation and big
from chemical to biological drugs, or
data analytics support
biotherapeutics, which are manufactured
traditional laboratory work
using a living system such as a
while predictive modelling enhances
microorganism or plant or animal cells.
the ability to predict outcomes and
in 2018, speeding up access to
Personalised cell and gene therapies
in South Africa and could increase their impact over the course of the next year.
New regulator
Backlogs in local medicines approval times are set to change
tailor treatments. Artificial intelligence
advanced new drugs. Patients will
and regenerative medicine present the
(AI), Internet of Things (IoT) and
benefit from the arrival of game-
promise of effective treatment in ways
mobile devices enable more effective
changing drugs, one of which
not previously possible. For example,
patient monitoring and outcomes
received fast-tracked approval by the
immunocellular therapy uses a patient’s
assessments. These developments
Medicines Control Council (MCC)
own T-cells to fight cancer and this year,
are brought to life in smartphone
due to its breakthrough status. The
it received a ‘breakthrough therapy
platforms developed by pharma in
new drug reduces by 20 percent the
designation’ by the US authorities.
collaboration with global leaders
risk of heart failure hospitalisations
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
PHARMA FOCUS//Legislation & Regulations and cardiovascular deaths following heart failure; it enables patients to improve their quality of life and represents a new treatment class. Another drug under registration is a biological and offers improved psoriasis treatment outcomes with very high skin clearance, and treats psoriatic arthritis and ankylosing spondylitis. Thousands of other drugs still await approval by South Africa’s medicines regulator, delaying the arrival of new drugs by around five years compared to the rest of the world. This is especially critical in life-prolonging treatments where delayed approvals have a direct impact on patients’ survival. The formalisation of the South African Health Products
Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry
Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA), replacing the MCC with effect from 1 June 2017, and the announcement of the new SAPHRA Board in October this year, may herald the start of change in 2018. In the meantime, the South African pharma industry is committed to continued participation in clinical trials, ensuring data from our diverse population contributes to growing new treatments. SAPHRA could gain confidence on review of registration dossiers from the fact that local investigators (often leaders in their clinical field) have had experience with the product. The industry is cautiously optimistic the new body may take a fresh approach to approvals, building on reviews by the U.S.
ALPHA
FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha
TANGO
FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango
FDA and European Medicines Agency (EMA) while upgrading its full-time review capacity.
NHI and patient empowerment Universal access to healthcare is a noble ambition yet it should be noted initiatives like the move to a National Health Insurance (NHI) scheme are most effective and sustainable when thoroughly planned and resourced with strong partnerships in place. While we do not expect to see NHI implementation in 2018, we may well see planning progress made. Package coverage
BRAVO
Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo
will be key as well as what infrastructure and healthcare staff will be available, and that the health insurance will be based on solid and sustainable financing for many years. The pharma industry has a very proactive approach to the changes and is seeking to partner early on with the relevant stakeholders to ensure patient access to the best treatments in a changing healthcare space. Patient advocacy groups will likely play a role in the development of the NHI, amidst another emerging trend in healthcare: the growing role patients play in their treatment.
OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability
Globally and in South Africa, emerging patient associations and advocacy groups and patient empowerment through social media are giving patients a voice and shifting them to the centre of the treatment ecosystem. With this wave of change in the industry, South African patients can look forward to improved treatments and enhanced healthcare provision in years to come. •
ABOUT Dr Thomas Kowallik is the CPO head and country president for Novartis South Africa and the head of Novartis southern African countries.
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.
Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics Innovation with Integrity
FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
27
FRAGRANCES
The shift to authenticity
drives scent trends Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA says the upcoming years will provide a wide range of fragrances reflecting this trend from locally inspired scents to innovative citric notes.
R
The Cloudberry is considered a super fruit in Scandinavia Image courtesy of Karjalankettu/Adobe.com
egions like northern Europe, the traditional
Trendy ingredients to be expected in personal
and home care products include wildflowers, seabuckthorn and cloudberries. The latter, nicknamed ‘orange of the North’, is the unparalleled super fruit of Scandinavia. Its high levels of vitamin C promise great benefits for beauty products. The situation is similar with the sea buckthorn. The
beverage tea, new citric notes and the
bright orange fruit shapes the dunes around the
2018 Pantone Colour of the Year Ultra
Baltic Sea and is considered the epitome of Baltic
Violet are set to shape personal care
originality. In the upcoming years, meadow beauties,
and household care product development until
such as delicate, summer-scented daisies, will also
2020. This is according to Germany’s Bell Flavors &
be in focus in new fragrance compositions for body
Fragrances EMEA, which is represented in South
and home care products.
Africa by Fourchem. ‘Looking to current fragrance trends, we see
A healthy cup of tea
two main directions. On the one hand, there is
Another key theme reflecting the demand for nature-
a strong desire for regional products. This trend,
inspired scents is tea. The traditional beverage
coming from the food industry, now solidifies
promising well-being and balance is expected
in fragrances. On the other hand, we still
to get another push in the context of the detox
observe the yearning for the exotic. Examples
trend. Whether green, white, black or rooibos – the
of fragrances following this attitude are
large variety of tea available offers great scope for
new citric notes that will find their way to the
manufacturers for unusual and pleasantly restrained
shelves in the upcoming seasons,’ explains
fragrances. The drink can be ideally combined
Janine Hammer, marketing specialist at Bell
with fruits or exotic flowers, such as the lotus. Citric
Flavors & Fragrances EMEA.
notes also make up interesting fragrance directions in combination with tea. This might work as a door
Treasures from the North
opener to the home care segment with dishwashing
The nativeness of the northern landscapes
detergents being among the foremost applications in
delights consumers. There are numerous
which consumers are likely to try something new.
places symbolising localism, from the fjords of Norway with their calm waters and steep cliffs
Citrus reinvented
over the rough Baltic coast to the lonesome
In contrast to the subtle fragrances that are
steppes of Siberia. After all, these landscapes
trending, citric notes continue to remain high on
hold countless fragrance treasures giving
consumers’ agenda. For the upcoming years a
room for fragrance interpretations.
strong swing towards Asia is expected, reflecting
Distributors of Fine Fragrances Tel: 011 791 0312 | Fax : 086 273 2283 sales@symscent.co.za | www.symscent.co.za
28
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Proudly appointed distributor of Symrise Fragrances, Cosmetic Ingredients and Aroma Molecules
FRAGRANCES
An expert from Bell inspects the new arrival of Buddha’s Hand at the historic Schimmel Library at the company’s headquarters in Leipzig, Germany
great storytelling value. In China, the ‘fingered citron’ symbolises happiness and a long life. In Japan, ‘Buddha’s Hand’ is a favourite New Year gift because it is believed to bestow good fortune on a household.
DID YOU KNOW?
the always up-to-date mentality of longing for paradise. Lesser known representatives of these
Ultra Violet sparkling Pantone 18-3838 Ultra Violet, the 2018 Color of the Year, will be interpreted
In 2018, Bell Flavors & on an olfactive level. In perfumery, Fragrances EMEA celebrates its the mystic colour harmonises well 25th anniversary in Germany. The with heavy oriental fragrances. company is a leading supplier of The dark, romantic-looking shade fragrances, flavours, botanical extracts and ingredient specialities is reminiscent of One Thousand to personal and home care and One Nights – a collection of industries and the food and Middle Eastern folk tales compiled in beverage industry.
notes, like kumquat, yuzu and satsuma, will come to consumers’ minds in terms of scented products. An interesting ingredient to explore for citric notes is the hand-shaped citron, ‘Buddha’s Hand’. This fruit is commonly known for its zest and has a flavour described as a blend of bitter and
Janine Hammer points out authenticity as a key trend in scented products for the upcoming years
Arabic during the Islamic Golden Age.
Violet is also the epitome of classical floral notes. Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA perceives modern interpretations of the flowers, violet and lupine to be in demand, with fruity notes like fig highly recommended for enchanting fragrance compositions. •
sweet acidity, similar to a kumquat, with lavender undertones. Its oily rind features a fragrant sweet lemon scent while the flesh is void of juice, pulp and seeds. The meaning behind the fruit holds
Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – www.bell-europe.com Fourchem – www.fourchem.co.za
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
29
FRAGRANCES
Go multi-sensorial and
reap the benefits
The beauty and personal care market is evolving in two clear directions. Marie-Eugénie Bouge, director of marketing and communications at Payan Bertrand, maps out developments in fine fragrances and shares solutions to achieve sensorial success.
Millennials, seduced by strong, mysterious and sensual fragrances, are interested in gourmand tones, particularly those associated with sunny scents, dry fruits, honey and figs (Lady Million Privé, Olympéa Intense and Scandal). They also want strong and addictive top notes conveyed through an overdose of lychee and rose (Emporio Armani Stronger With You and Mademoiselle Rochas Eau de Parfum).
I
For masculine perfumes, brands try the unisex nnovation targets informed consumers, who
touch of orris to succeed with younger generations,
demand new products that not only guarantee
approached unsuccessfully until the launch of
quick results but also provide new sensory
Yves Saint Laurent’s Y and Prada L’Homme Intense.
experiences. This multisensorial approach to
Globally, the accent is on spices, often associated
Sustainable development is part of our philosophy, not to produce more, but to produce better, differently Natural ingredients are explored in the lab at Payan Bertrand
cosmetics and toiletries can be achieved
with leathery tones, emphasising the idea of virility
using new formulation bases, such as a
and luxury (Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, Obsessed for
cream gel, foam, oil, serum or butter. It is
Men, Just Rock! Pour Lui, and L`Homme Lacoste)
also supported by customised fragrances
An overdose of amber is also popular. Initially
that emphasise a product’s efficacy, a sense
dedicated to the extremely active Middle Eastern
of well-being and relaxation, or the vintage
market, this trend is getting stronger in selective
barbershop handcrafted concept – an
distribution and niche fragrances often associated
emerging trend in male grooming.
with marine notes, such as L’Eau Majeure d’Issey and
To translate the well-being or relaxation trend olfactively in cosmetics, use floral fruity
Dylan Blue, and with spices, like Pure XS, Stronger With You, and BOSS The Scent Intense.
aquatic perfumes that enhance the idea of moisturisation and sweet floral oriental scents
Transparency and understanding
for nourishing and soothing body products.
To offer new concepts or an analysis of trends,
In toiletries, exotic fruits, nuts or spices
Payan Bertrand relies on its global network and
transport consumers to far-off destinations
strong knowledge of local specifics developed
while aromatic or oriental fougeres are ideal
through distributor partnerships like its 15 year-long
for male grooming products for hair and beard care. A hot trend in fine fragrances, led by new niche fragrance launches, is the use
association with Natchem, which is perfectly in tune with African market needs. The creativity of our perfumers is supported by
of natural premium ingredients
the quality and exclusivity of our raw materials
highlighted in pure formulations
– an extraordinary range of premium natural
and developed to reveal original
ingredients – tailor made to emphasise the creativity,
facets or new associations of a
strength, signature and lasting durability of Payan
single ingredient.
Bertrand’s creations.
Focus on fine fragrance
R&D department and sourcing division, we offer
Tuberose is the flower of the
unique natural ingredients dedicated to the
year for feminine fragrances.
creation of fine fragrances with a guarantee of
Modernised by a vegetal
distinction. The concept of sustainable development
burst in association with the
is part of our philosophy, not to produce more, but
surprising green fruity Tagetes
to produce better, differently. We place nature at
in Aura Mugler, with ginger in
the beginning and end of all our processes and
Twilly d’Hermès, or with pear in
protecting human beings is a priority. We fully
Gabrielle Chanel. Tuberose also
respect international regulations and aim for the
targets younger generations
highest ethical standards.
Thanks to the knowledge of our natural perfumers,
through new formulations far from
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| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Corporate social responsibility principles
the classical heady ‘soliflore’ of
are integrated at the foundation of all internal
the ’80s.
developments at Payan Bertrand. We implemented
FRAGRANCES
A producer in a vetiver field in Indonesia
collectively to establish more responsible and traceable supply chains. Our partnership with
INNOVATION IS THE KEY OF TOMORROW
an NGO has been a vital step in enhancing our
PAYAN BERTRAND’S PILLAR of services focus on its
social and environmental
research and innovation, sourcing and R&D departments
action. Based on this long-
working together with a highly qualified industrial and
term view, we founded
academic network dedicated to increasingly sustainable
PT General Aromatics in
practices and innovations. Topics such as the resource
Banda Aceh, Indonesia
optimisation, enhanced waste management and green
in January 2011. The
extraction are all ongoing projects for Payan Bertrand
venture is supported by the
which ‘focuses on today for tomorrow’.
country’s authorities and focuses specifically on the sustainable production and supply of indigenous
A Patchouli plant in Indonesia
essential oils. This sister company was established in the area devastated by the December 2004 tsunami, improving people’s living conditions and economic stability in Indonesia. It also helps Payan Bertrand ensure the supply of a specific range of premium ingredients, guaranteeing their quality and the a strategic development plan in 2008 which aims,
processes of each product. •
within our supply chains, to improve our knowledge of raw materials and the way they are grown and produced. By sharing experiences between key players, we are developing partnerships and acting
Natchem – www.natchem.co.za Payan Bertrand – www.payanbertrand.com
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
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FRAGRANCES
The new compounding laboratory at MANE South Africa, located in Meadowdale, Gauteng
Invested in Africa’s potential
MANE has made extensive investments in its team and capabilities to ensure the company is fully equipped to meet the needs of African customers. By Abby Vorster
I
n an ever-changing world, olfaction is
ensure its customers’ products are more insight
a difficult notion to grasp. In Africa, it is
orientated and tailored to consumers’ tastes
particularly challenging because consumer
and preferences.
preferences differ from one region to the next
African markets are hand wash markets, through
and the weather. Yet MANE has overcome this
our studies we have established that long-lasting
challenge with its strategic close to market focus.
fragrance is key. This is because there is a strong
Over the past 18 months, the company has invested significantly in its presence, expertise and capabilities on the African continent. MANE Ivory Coast is now fully operational, including sales and administrative offices, and a fragrance R&D centre that is equipped with application laboratories and evaluation cabins. Being closer to the market is part of the company’s primary focus to understand not only its clients’ needs but also final consumers’ expectations.
Being closer to the market is part of the company’s primary focus 32
‘While it is common knowledge that most
and are influenced by aspects such as religion
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Growth that is insight driven Consumer insight studies are also high on MANE’s agenda. Antoine Ruaz, new business development manager at MANE South Africa says the company is carrying out various studies in South Africa and in the East and Western parts of Africa to
The equipment in the MANE South Africa’s soap studio used to produce samples for customers
FRAGRANCES
DID YOU KNOW?
link between cleanliness and freshness and how this impacts
Virginie Pons and Clementine
MANE won three accolades at the Abihpec Beauty Brazil Awards, hosted in São Paulo in October 2017. L’Occitane au Brésil won with Cumaru in the category Masculine Perfumery and with Caju Moisturising Firming Cream in the category Body Care. Both products were fragranced by MANE’s Sophie Truitard. In the Perfumer category, she was also awarded top prize for Red Denim from Forum (Passion).
social status. For example, in Lagos, Nigeria, humidity levels are high. Therefore, fragrance molecules in hand wash detergent need to be powerful enough to mask the musty odour in clothing,’ says Ruaz.
Girard, who enhance the company’s ability to tailor solutions to its customers’ needs. MANE South
Africa is home to
Extensive R&D and marketing expertise
evaluation cabins, a new compounding
In South Africa, MANE has established a
laboratory and state of the art
market leading presence over the past
gas chromatography mass
16 years supplying fragrances used in
spectrometry equipment
deodorants, fine fragrances and air
to separate, identify and
fresheners, as well as in hair, skin, bath and
quantify complex chemical
body care products. This office is still under
compositions. This office also
the same leadership as when it was first
has a fully equipped soap
launched with Olivier Cebe.
studio to produce bar soaps
To ensure a high level of expertise within the
fragranced with various MANE
South African office, which provides technical
creations, which are provided to customers for
and R&D support to the other MANE locations
trial purposes. •
MANE South Africa’s evaluation cabins
on the African continent, Cebe and Ruaz have established a formidable team. This includes
MANE – www.mane.com
a marketing team and two new perfumers
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A N
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T A
I T
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G R
T E
’
H S
E M
E A
S G
S I
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C
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C
Photographer Didier D. Daarwin Getty Images/Image Source - Getty Images/Athit Perawongmetha.
O
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
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FRAGRANCES
Ingredients
dressed up for success Are you interested in a perfumer’s perspective on trending fragrance ingredients? Three perfumery experts from Sozio take P C Review on an olfactive journey on the signature, sensual, fresh and crisp notes of hazelnut, mint and blueberry.
D These notes are not only straight and identifiable, but also composed of many different facets
fragrance launches with a freshness that is followed by lasting marine and cologne accords. Fabienne Bourcier, senior perfumer at Sozio, tells us more about this comeback to mint. ‘I have worked on many client projects requiring a cold, iced or frosted effect in their perfumes.
erived from the alliance
To achieve this, the major component is mint!
between edible and
What I particularly like when working with these
green in feminine
kinds of notes is they are not only straight and
perfumery,
identifiable, but also composed of many
hazelnut is everywhere
different facets. For example, in some
in new launches.
of the latest launches, Hugo Iced was
Emmanuelle Juilliart,
created around a green and vegetal mint
senior perfumer at
to give a mint leaf or mint tea effect that
Sozio, talks about this new ingredient.
is almost true to life. In Terra Glacialis from
Em
‘Womanity by Mugler was the first perfume I noticed with
ma
nu ell e Juill
i
t ar
l’Artisan Parfumeur the mint brings a frosted note. I really love this perfume because I find the
iced accord interesting; the mint is not utilised
a hazelnut note. This iconic fragrance with an
as a common cheap menthol fragrance but is
overdose of hazelnut starts with a green fig top
rather accompanied by an earthy woody side
note that moves onto a hazelnut facet when the
that almost emits a wet effect. This gives depth
dry woody base settles. The confusion between
and quality to the perfume. More perfumes are
fig and hazelnut notes is due to a similar accord
also playing with temperature, which could be
construction, based on a green note associated
a reason for the comeback of mint. Indeed, the
with a milky one. However, for the hazelnut effect,
Mugler perfume Kryptomint unveils a refreshing
we add an edible and roasted facet. Hazelnut has
top note delivered by a white mint with a shade
also been played sweeter in Olympea by Paco
of liquorice and quickly evolves into a warm and
Rabanne. It is dressed in an oriental and floral
balmy base. This can be considered an upgrade
accord, which rounds the shrill green starting
of the hot and cold contrast of the famous Cartier
notes. On the contrary, in This is Her! By Zadig &
perfume, Roadster, which is a truly beautiful
Voltaire, the hazelnut note is greener yet supported
creation based on a minty overdose and a woody
by a creamy and milky accord, combined with a
ambery base,’ Bourcier explains.
cocktail of spices making it a great addition and a
F
ie ab
n n e B ou rc
sumptuous skin perfume. This is almost identical to
The new aldehyde
the last opus of Black Opium, Floral Shock flanker,
With the return of floral perfumes and the
where an overdose of hazelnut is noted, blended
trend around rose, the spotlight
with a very edible milky heart while retaining a
is on blackcurrant in new
ier fresh and crisp top note. I find hazelnut is a
good compromise for an edible perfume in which we want to relieve the top notes
launches. Enabling creators to modernise classic floral perfumes, blackcurrant
whilst keeping a note with an edible
pairs especially well with
connotation,’ says Juilliart.
rose, violet and white flowers, most recently
Crisp, cold and inviting
used in Chanel’s, Gabrielle.
Mint is trendy regardless of what type
Caroline Malléjac, senior
is used, be it spearmint, peppermint or pennyroyal. It modernises new masculine
34
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
perfumer at Sozio, gives her point of view on this fashionable fruit.
Ca
ro l i n
e M all é
jac
FRAGRANCES
DID YOU KNOW?
‘Blackcurrant is a fruity note that is more conceptual than a traditional red fruit like strawberry or raspberry. It
Sozio’s products and fragrance ingredients are available in South Africa from Millchem.
is subtle, making it hard to distinguish and giving it a more sophisticated effect in
to the top notes of fragrances to support bergamot for example, or even to substitute a citrus accord with too many technical connotations. This
is how it is used in Mademoiselle Rochas
any composition. The candle Baies by Dyptique
and Because it’s You by Armani. In Gabrielle by
is the perfect symbol of the blackcurrant scent
Armani, it modernises and makes the white floral
composed by perfumery. Of course, this note is
accord sparkle. I consider blackcurrant the new
more faceted and in smaller quantities in fine
aldehyde, permitting a modern twist on rose
fragrances. I enjoy working with blackcurrant
or jasmine.’ •
notes in personal care or in candles, particularly to give relief to heavy notes that can be difficult to transmit in these kinds of applications. Blackcurrant can also bring some freshness
Millchem – www.millchem.com Sozio – www.jesozio.com/en
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
35
STUDENT FOCUS
Talking dirty – pollution The winning article in this year’s Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review/ Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science essay competition is written by Nikita Venter. As the writer of the top essay, Venter’s work is published in this Student Focus and she’s received a prize sponsored by the magazine.
P
ollution, a fashionable ‘swearword’, has
anti-pollution discussions emerged a few years
left many an opportunity for cosmetic
ago, the topic has only just become established
chemists to combat its effects. In 2016,
in the cosmetics industry. So consumers need to
Mintel stated that consumers are aware
gain trust in the efficacy of the finished product.
that air pollution is affecting both their skin
Consumer trust plays an obvious role in the sales
and hair, which has resulted in many new anti-
of a product, which well-established brands enjoy.
pollution ingredients launched on the market.
While these brands may enjoy a head-start in this
According to Euromonitor International, China,
new category, there is currently no standardised
India and Pakistan contain cities with the highest
method to quantify the efficacy of an anti-pollution
levels of pollution in the world, which no doubt
product. Where sunblock uses SPF testing, a
has pioneered the development of anti-pollution
standardised measure of efficacy is yet to be
cosmetics. Interestingly enough, in China, health
developed for anti-pollution products.
concerns are driving sales, whereas Westerners are more concerned with premature skin ageing. There are countless opportunities for developers
Your choice of ingredients is key when developing an anti-pollution product. You must think of the mechanism of action of the active
and brand owners, but where to start? It remains
ingredient to drive your marketing. Lipotec’s
obvious that planning plays an essential role.
Pollushield contains chelating and free-radical
Before thinking of finished products, one needs
scavenging properties, binding to all the pollutants
to think of a target market. People living in rural
on the skin and getting rid of reactive oxygen
areas won’t be placing much importance on anti-
species. Covestro’s Baycusan is a film former and
pollution cosmetics, whereas protection against
prevents pollutant particles from being absorbed.
the sun would be a winning formula for them. If you
The increasing demand for green products is
want a product that sells, look at urbanised areas,
another point to consider. The green shift can easily
and even go as far as heavy industrialised ones.
be accommodated with plant extracts, vitamins and antioxidants with anti-pollution properties.
Pollution types on the radar
For anti-pollution hair care products, Provital’s
Countless products on the market protect against
Keracyn 73400 is an antioxidant derived from
air pollution, but we can take it a step further and
artichokes that protects the cuticle. Croda’s
investigate chemical pollution. Perhaps one can
Heliogenol is a sunflower extract that protects hair
formulate a product that can be multifunctional
with its anti-oxidative activities.
in the sense that it caters for protection against
36
more than one type of pollution. Is a specific
Claims and consumer groups
age or ethnic group being targeted? Once the
When it comes to claims, Mintel says many brands
obvious questions have been answered, the
don’t claim anti-pollution on their packaging.
formulator or brand owner needs to decide exactly
Even though we cannot always make consumers
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
what function their product
understand the science behind the concept,
needs to serve. Taking a look at
word-play within the name of the product is the
products on shelf, these either
way to go. A great example is Prevage City Smart
provide protection or a means
by Elizabeth Arden, which includes UV protection
of treatment. For anti-pollution
and anti-pollution benefits. While the UV Plus Anti-
products, prevention or treatment
Pollution Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Tinted Sunscreen
benefits, or a combination of both
by Clarins is a mouthful it does tell the consumer
could work
the product is multifunctional. Shu Uemera’s Urban
In western markets consumers
Moisture Hydro Nourishing Shampoo also clearly
demand multifunctional products,
has it all in its name. Use the word ‘urban’ on your
so keep this in mind when
packaging, and its guaranteed
formulating. Remember while
consumers will understand your
STUDENT FOCUS
meets cosmetics product’s function. For hair care, Nexxus
opportunity that needs
City Shield Conditioner also gets it right.
to be seized, as the
Want to go natural? Ren clean skincare’s
statistics speak for
Anti-Pollution Mist not only clearly states
themselves: sun
the product’s use, but the free from claims
care is a huge
substantiate its naturalness. South Africa’s
category and
African Extracts Advantage Intensive Day
product sales are
Cream contains bio-active Rooibos and
predicted to rise.
plant extracts and clearly states on the packaging: ‘it reduces signs of ageing
All eyes on Africa
and protects against environmental stress’.
All this talk about pollution, but no mention
South Africa contains a wealth of Ethnic diversity, and we have diverse
of the opportunities available in Africa
botanicals in our backyard. This provides
– our very own stunning continent, rich
an opportunity for us to stick to our
in culture and biodiversity, and what’s
roots and make the most of the African
more, all of this is in our backyard. With
botanical theme, to address consumers
anti-pollution being the hot topic, the
pigmentation and natural hair care needs.
Ethnic market is ripe for the taking. It
Partner studio editor of the Huffington
would be a shame not to explore every
Post, Janine Jellars, wrote in an article
angle – you can compare it to having
on the Ethnic hair category that black
a swimming pool that you never use.
consumers in South Africa spend up to
A hot summer’s day comes around,
six times more on hair care products than
you aren’t in the mood for a swim, yet
white consumers. She also stated the
you listen jealously to the neighbours
Ethnic hair care market is shifting towards
splashing about whilst the braai is on
a natural theme.
the go. In the February 2017 edition
There are many international examples
of P&C Review, Ingredion’s Claudia
of anti-pollution hair care products, like
Fiannaca stated, ‘within the next 10
Shu Uemera’s Urban Moisture Hydro
years, the African beauty market will be
Nourishing Shampoo, Nexxus’ City Shield
traction in the male grooming market.
increasing two-fold, showing a projected
Conditioner. And Anti-Pollution Frequent
Ponds Men Pollution Out cleanser contains
annual growth of five to 10 percent’. The
Use Shampoo by J.F. Lazartigue. For the
a charcoal mask and coffee bean scrubs
expected worth of the African beauty
African Ethnic market, this is most certainly
to combat pollution. Eisenberg Paris has
and personal care market in 2017 was
an area of great opportunity for new
a complete collection aimed at anti-
US$13.2 billion, showing the market should
product development.
pollution for men and ClarinsMen Super
not be underestimated.
Anti-pollution products are also gaining
Africa’s Ethnic diversity creates a
Moisture Balm is yet another example of a
platform to explore relevant anti-pollution
male grooming anti-pollution product.
skin and hair care products. But remember
Remember pollution does not
– you need to understand the market
discriminate. Children are just as exposed
before launching something new. Ethnic
as adults. A parent that is knowledgeable
groups are not perturbed by ageing, but
on the importance of UV protection will
rather pigmentation, which is also caused
most certainly be well-informed
by pollution.
about pollution protection. So
There are many gaps that can still be
why not tie anti-pollution into
filled, and innovation will most certainly
a sunblock formulated
pave the way. •
for children? It is an
ABOUT Nikita Venter is a sales representative at Savannah Fine Chemicals where she works across all industries with pharmaceuticals being her biggest portfolio. She has completed Module 1 of the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science and has an honours degree in Zoology. Before joining Savannah two years ago, Venter worked for the Social Insects Research Group at the University of Pretoria. Her research focused on honeybees, yet after developing a deathly bee allergy, she made a positive career change.
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
37
SKIN CARE
Natural mushroom enzyme for mild exfoliation Healthy skin is characterised by efficient cell renewal. Exfoliation, be it chemical, mechanical or enzymatic, helps the cell renewal process but some types are harsher on the skin than others. Lipotec has developed an active botanical ingredient that is effective yet mild on skin. By Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Laia González, Raquel Delgado
D
esquamation is necessary
Tight control
Mushroom enzyme
for effective skin renewal.
The endogenous enzymes responsible for
Some organisms have been found to
A variety of endogenous
natural desquamation in the epidermis
produce proteases that mimic skin’s
proteases breakdown cell-
are pH-dependent, so their activity varies
natural enzymes, making them interesting
cell junctions in the epidermis, allowing
based on location. The epidermis exhibits
candidates for topical exfoliants. Actizyme
dead cells to desquamate. Lipotec’s
a pH gradient from about pH 7.4 at the
advanced botanical ingredient is a fungi-
Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient,
basal layer to around pH 5.5 at the stratum
derived protease that mimics cathepsin D,
available in South Africa from Savannah
corneum (SC) surface1.
as it exhibits a pH activity profile very similar
Fine Chemicals, contains a fungi-derived
to that of the endogenous enzyme.
protease that mimics a key epidermal protein in exfoliation. When applied to skin, it helps improve the complexion with a brightening effect. Cell renewal is slowed down by the ageing process and exposure to wind, air pollution, heat and sunlight or the use of detergents, resulting in dull and dry skin. Exfoliation removes pigmented cells that accumulate on skin’s surface. It also increases skin’s clarity and gives it a healthy looking glow. One form of exfoliation is chemical
When formulated in an acidic buffer
Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4 percent
and applied on skin, the enzyme begins exfoliation. As the skin’s natural buffering capacity raises its pH, it reaches deeper layers of the SC and becomes inactive. Consequently, exfoliation is maintained specifically at the SC surface. This effective and controlled exfoliation produces little irritation and skin barrier disruption compared to AHAs. The brightening efficacy of this natural exfoliant has been tested on photoptye IV skins with notable results.
peeling where acids are applied on the
Irritation and damage control
skin to reduce cohesion between the corneocytes. Suitable acids include alpha-
In the deepest layers of the SC, serine
The epidermis on the volar forearm of 10
hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or
proteases participate in the degradation
volunteers (aged between 20 and 50) was
lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
of intercellular junctions as their optimal
stained with the fluorescent dye, dansyl
like salicylic acid. The main disadvantage
activity is at neutral pH2. In contrast,
chloride. Actizyme advanced botanical
of chemical peeling is skin irritation.
cysteine and aspartic proteases are active
ingredient was applied twice a day.
Enzymatic exfoliation offers a gentler
in an acidic environment promoting
Removal of the stain was monitored daily
approach with minor risk of irritation. This
desquamation in the most superficial SC.
using a UV light until complete elimination
process is based on the application of
Cathepsin D is an aspartic protease
and changes in cell renewal were
proteases that break cell-cell interactions
that is active at acidic pH between 3.5
calculated in comparison to untreated
and promote desquamation.
and 5.0. It can break corneodesmosomes
skin (control).
in the low pH environment of the SC Figure 1: Measurement of induced skin reactivity
surface, causing desquamation. However, in deeper layers
cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4 percent
(with a higher pH) it
respectively, with these values being
cannot degrade the
statistically significant (p<0.05).
junctions between
38
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase
In order to confirm the absence of side
cells as efficiently.
effects, higher doses than required for
The pH-activity profile
exfoliation were used and compared to
and the location of
the application of an AHA. Volunteers
this enzyme limit its
(aged between 35 and 65) applied 15 or
activity specifically to
30 percent Actizyme advanced botanical
the superficial layers
ingredient, or eight percent lactic acid
of the SC.
to half the face. After four weeks, the
SKIN CARE
volunteers’ changes in skin sensitivity to
the face and a placebo cream on the
topical irritants or in the barrier function
other half.
were assessed.
Figure 2: High resolution photographs taken of a volunteer before (day 0) and after (day 30) the treatment
Evaluation of skin luminance (L*) was
For skin redness, reactivity to Balsam
performed using a spectrophotometer.
of Peru, a known topical irritant, was
This was also used to calculate individual
determined before and after product use.
typological angle values, which show
In Figure 1, the colour value a* indicates
the degree of pigmentation. The results
redness and was obtained as an indicator
revealed an increase in L* and ITA° –
of skin erythema using chromametry. The
data associated with a brighter and less
active ingredient produced little irritation
pigmented skin.
compared to a lower concentration of lactic acid. To determine damage to barrier function, changes in the integrity of the
High resolution images of volunteers also showed changes in skin complexion (see
cathepsin D and offers an effective
Figure 2).
method of exfoliation when applied
A clearer skin complexion was
skin barrier were assessed by measuring
unanimously perceived by volunteers. All of
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) with an
the subjects (100 percent) assigned the top
evaporimeter. The application of increasing
two scores (agree and strongly agree) to
concentrations of Actizyme advanced
the affirmations ‘visible lightening effect on
botanical ingredient resulted in minimal
skin’ and ‘face appeared more luminous’
changes in TEWL compared to lactic acid.
in a self-evaluation questionnaire.
Boosting skin clarity
efficacy proven in vivo, Actizyme advanced
A panel of 21 Indian volunteers (aged
botanical ingredient reconfirms the role of
between 19 and 46) with skin phototype
effective desquamation and epidermal
IV applied a cream containing two
renewal to achieve a radiant complexion.
percent Actizyme GL advanced botanical
This fungi-derived enzyme mimics the
ingredient twice a day for 30 days on half
activity profile of the endogenous protease
With its mechanism of action and
with an acidic buffer, increasing the cell renewal rate in vivo. •
Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za REFERENCES: 1. Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 19(6):296-302, 2006. 2. Caubet C, Jonca N, Brattsand M, Guerrin M, et al. Degradation of corneodesmosome proteins by two serine proteases of the kallikrein family, SCTE/KLK5/hK5 and SCCE/ KLK7/hK7. J. Invest. Dermatol. 122(5): 1235-1244 (2004).
Gentle exfoliation to light up the skin NEW TEST Controlled and effective desquamation without side effects Brightened tone in skin phototype (Fitzpatrick) IV A more luminous face perceived by 100% of volunteers 0 days
30 days
SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 I www.savannah.co.za E-mail: info@savannah.co.za www.lipotec.com All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2015, 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
39
SKIN CARE
Surprise the senses with Evonik
Trendy textures improve how consumers experience products. They add a fun element to product usage and can even be a key driver of consumer loyalty. Evonik has created a series of texture-centric demos using its unique ingredient and R&D expertise. Table 1: Evonik’s ingredients to obtain innovative textures
Texture
Key sensory ingredients
Luxurious Whipped Cream
Abil Care XL 80
Tegosoft SH
Transformation Cooling Balm
Abil EM 180
Tegosoft SH
Melting Day Shield SPF20
Abil EM 180
Tegosoft SH
Magic Cream to Milk
Abil EM 180
Abil Wax 9801
Caring Oil Release Cream
Tego Care 450
Tegosoft DEC
Oil Release SPF50 Lotion
Tego Care PBS 6
Tegosoft DEC
Seize the opportunity Online interest is instantaneous and spreads widely thanks to the internet and social media. Because products that
C
DID YOU KNOW?
onsumers’ focus is shifting. The lingering impact of the recession and a rising demand for authenticity mean they want to impress less through ownership and
share more through experiences. Brands, suppliers and
with their users, using trendy textures in your innovative formulations can create interest
around your products, offer newness and fun According to Euromonitor experiences and drive consumer loyalty, ensuring International’s online survey results, 30 percent of your products feature in their beauty regimens. consumers buy skin care Evonik has created a number of texture‘to try something centric demos using key sensory ingredients new’.
technology companies have taken notice, making haptics more
(see Table 1). Its Shape Memory W/O Gel has a
self-levelling ability that gives the impression of a ‘fresh
prominent than ever. According to TechTarget, haptics is ‘the science
start’ before each use. The transformative Magic Cream to
of applying touch or a tactile sensation and control to interaction with
Milk skin care concept uses milk-like droplets that ‘break’ when
computer applications’.
applied to skin, releasing moisturising and brightening actives.
Tactile experiences are highly relevant in the beauty and personal
The company has also developed a Luxurious Whipped
care space. Formulators and brands are creating new and interesting
Cream, which has a creamy texture and soft skin feel, and its
textures in products to give consumers an enhanced level of
Transformation Cooling Balm has a solid-like consistency and
engagement. Novel textures, often inspired by the Asian market,
perceived cooling effect upon application. •
include ice cream and mousse concepts that provide an emotional and sensorial connection with products.
including improvement of hair gloss
amino acid with
engage with the senses build a stronger connection
40
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Evonik – www.evonik.com
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
March 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 3
www.pharmacos.co.za
Automation at the end of the line
Do your bit to
recycle metal cans
Augmented Reality helps you connect with consumers
NEWS
NEW INVESTMENTS FOR MARCHESINI
The new screw-on classic range of polypropylene hinge tube closures from RPC Zeller Plastik Zell
Edgy closures designed for pharma and cosmetics
THE MARCHESINI GROUP has
industrial processes. Vibrotech
acquired 48 percent of SEA Vision,
started up in 2005 as a spin-off of
a leading creator of vision and
technicians with 20 years’ experience
inspection systems used in quality
in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics
RPC ZELLER PLASTIK Zell has extended its screw-on
control and anti-counterfeiting.
industries. It has been a consolidated
classic range of polypropylene hinge tube closures with
The operation consolidates years
business partner of the Marchesini
the addition of a 25mm size, available with a matte finish.
of fruitful business between the
Group for years. The take-over of
two companies and is worth €125
a minority share will not change
The new closure joins the existing 50, 40, 35 and 30mm sizes enabling brands and manufacturers to
million and a long-term
Vibrotech’s commercial
create family ranges using a single closure design. Its
strategic agreement.
organisation, as it will
contemporary look meets current market trends for a
SEA Vision’s turnover
continue to work directly
more modern and edgy appearance on shelf.
in 2017 was €32 million
with the marketplace and
Euro and it expects
with other packaging
applications – including the availability of the caps in
this to increase by 40
machinery companies. This
pharma-grade material – the 25mm closure offers an
percent in 2018 because
transaction will also allow
alternative solution to the more traditional screw-on
drug serialisation is
Vibrotech and Marchesini
caps, with the convenience of one-handed opening.
Ideal for personal care and pharmaceutical
The classic 25mm closure is suitable for both
mandatory in the EU, USA and China
to strengthen their businesses in line
and now also in Brazil, Russia and
with Industry 4.0. In the packaging
laminate and plastic tubes and can be specified with
North Africa.
world, where processes are becoming
a glossy finish. It offers a choice of orifice sizes of 1.5,
more automated and advanced
three and five millimetres, and can be used for a wide
percent of Tuscan manufacturer,
robotics takes the lead, systems
range of products such as creams, gels shampoos and
Vibrotech, which makes infeed and
that provide sorted and positioned
toothpastes including for promotional packs, travel packs
positioning systems for automated
components are an absolute must.
under 100mℓ and hotel amenities.
The group has also acquired 40
Why it matters to recycle metal SOUTH AFRICANS USED more than
people to not only think about the quantity
that gets thrown into the recycling bag, the
198 000t of metal cans, foil trays and
of their recycling but also quality.
higher the value will be for the collectors
aerosols during 2016. MetPac-SA,
‘The metals packaging industry has
and the recyclers. For this reason, we are
the material recovery organisation
managed to develop a true circular
reminding residents try to clean out their
representing the steel, tinplate and
economy whereby material collected and
cans as much as possible before recycling
aluminium packaging industries in South
recycled, is used to produce new products
them. Because South Africa is a water-
Africa, is reminding the country, recycling
at a far lower cost to the environment than
scarce country, you should use your used
metals matters to the thousands of schools,
making them from raw materials. Every
dishwashing-up water and not clean tap
collectors and convertors that earn a living
time metal passes through the recycling
water. Every can that is recycled ends
from recycling this material.
loop, the benefits are repeated, again and
up making a big difference in the end,’
again,’ she explains.
Bezuidenhout concludes.
‘Metal packaging is one of the world’s most valuable materials for collectors
When recycling aerosols, don’t pierce,
and recyclers. This packaging material
crush or flatten aerosols before recycling.
continues to be in high demand and
Detach any loose parts, such as the plastic
includes cooldrink cans, food tins
lid, and dispose of it with
(including pet food), foil trays, empty
the rest of your rubbish.
aerosols canisters, metal bottle tops and
The plastic nozzle is
foil wrap,’ says Delanie Bezuidenhout, CEO
removed during the
of Metpac-SA.
recycling process.
According to figures released by
‘It is important
Packaging SA, for the past five years,
to remember that
metals packaging has consistently
both the quality
outperformed glass, paper and plastic
and quantity of the
by recording the highest recovery rate
materials that enter
and diversion from landfill. Whilst South
our waste stream
Africans have an already impressive track
impact the value.
record when it comes to recycling their
The cleaner the
metal cans, MetPac-SA is now appealing to
food or drink can
42
| MARCH 2018 | Packaging Review
Recycling metal packaging helps save valuable and scarce natural resources, energy and greenhouse gas emissions. When recycling aerosols, ensure the canister is completely empty
NEWS
The future with ARenabled packaging IN THEORY, AUGMENTED reality (AR) could allow brand owners and marketers to add a virtual layer of communication and promotional messaging to their packaging. But what is the difference between AR and virtual reality (VR)? Pyrotec PackMedia explains. AR is technology that adds an extra layer of digital content to your view of the real world, when
Siyakha celebrates its New Exporter of the Year accolade at the awards ceremony
observed through a device that is AR-enabled (such as a smart phone with the relevant app or in-built capabilities). Pokémon Go is a well-known example of augmented reality – offered in the form of a free-to-play game. VR, on the other hand, creates an entirely new threedimensional digital environment and then immerses the viewer in this environment through a VR device. As smartphones grow more sophisticated, the mainstream potential of AR is growing When viewed through a mobile device with AR capabilities, product packaging could carry an interactive digital overlay that could bring products to life and enable the consumer to gain an entirely new perspective on the product. According to Pyrotec PackMedia, it is worth keeping an eye on developments in the AR field and other new digital technologies that could take packaging and on-pack
Siyakha named New Exporter of the Year THE DURBAN CHAMBER of Commerce and Industry, in partnership with Transnet Port Terminals and other strategic partners commended the province’s successful exporters at an awards ceremony late last year. The Exporter of The Year Awards, held at the Durban International Convention Centre, recognise role players in exports. They encourage new entrants and help existing exporters grow their businesses and develop new markets.
communication by storm this year and beyond.
Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. (Siyakha) has been expanding
Using AR glasses, consumers will be able to enjoy unique experiences with enabled brands
the exports side of its business and for its efforts, was announced the winner of the New Exporter category. ‘As in any business, there are always challenges and a need to stand out in the marketplace. At Siyakha we accomplish this through constant cost-effective innovation. We pride ourselves in being at the forefront of label printing and this has been what has kept us progressing, not only in South Africa, but globally,’ says Jessica Busa, a representative at Siyakha. She says showcasing proudly South African packaging internationally is the company’s greatest driver for growth. ‘This is why we look forward to expanding our export market division. Being recognised in this platform definitely proves that our company has the capacity and capability to export internationally on a successful level.’
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Packaging Review | MARCH 2018 |
43
END-OF-LINE PACKAGING
Business benefits of
print and apply labelling Do you want to reduce labour and production costs and implement faster, more reliable and accurate labelling solutions? Pyrotec PackMark offers a range of endof-line print and apply solutions for labelling products and cartons.
T
hese print and apply
TRACEABILITY IN FOCUS
systems create and attach labels
directly onto products or packaging whilst still on the conveyor system. As
The 2200 Series boasts the following functionality to aid traceability:
self-contained units, they combine sturdy printers with sensitive automatic label applicators, ensuring
PackMark offers a versatile range of
labels can be printed in a high-quality,
print and apply solutions.
legible format and applied immediately and precisely on any face of a product. Not only will manufacturers do
A CLOSER LOOK The 2200 Series provides reliability,
away with the inconvenience and
efficiency and ease of use,
expense of pre-printed labels, but the
even in the most demanding
speed, accuracy and reliability of the
environments. Key benefits include
application will also save time and drive
a wide range of interchangeable
down labour costs.
applicators, optimised operational
As a supplier of market leading, high-performance machinery, Pyrotec
• compliant ANSI grade A/B codes even at the highest application speed • optional barcode scanner ensures 100 percent of cases leave the factory with a readable barcode • high-speed, real-time data generation support, including linear and 2D barcodes, graphics or serialisation • CoLOS software solutions ensure product data integrity, central data management and easy connection to existing enterprise database.
intervention and an unparalleled application rate.
The 2200 Pallet offers one- or two-sided pallet labelling speeds of up to 120 pallets per hour. It takes print and apply to the next stage of evolution, giving you optimised operational intervention and unparalleled reliability. The unique compact design and robust swing arm applicator make this machine a perfect long-term investment. It’s ideal for fast-paced environments – a simple media path allows operators to reload the label and ribbon rolls in less than 40 seconds. It also produces fully compliant ANSI grade A/B codes, even at the highest application speed. CimJet Label Printer Applicators offer quality printing, exceptional reliability and outstanding durability in the toughest manufacturing environments. The accurate, clear, crisp codes and 100 percent readable barcodes – which meet GS1 (UCC-EAN) standards – enable superior visibility within your supply chain. •
Pyrotec PackMark – www.packmark.co.za/labelling
44
Pyrotec PackMark’s 2200 Series installed on a packing line
| MARCH 2018 | Packaging Review
CODING & LABELLING
RELIABILITY 2200 SERIES - Print & Apply Labeller
Fast
Green
Operators can reload label and ribbon rolls in less than 40 seconds
Designed to be over 95% recyclable
Efficient 1774mm - 2339mm
560m ribbon and label rolls compared with the market standard of 450m to reduce line stoppages by 25%
Versatile
Various print engines and applicators available to suit your requirements
m 7m
83
Compliant
Compliant ANSI grade A/B codes even at the highest application speed
m
7m
83
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BEYOND EXCELLENCE
END-OF-LINE PACKAGING
Machines to
automate your processes The Marchesini Group has expanded its solutions for automated cosmetics and pharma packaging. It has also established a new cosmetics division as part of its growth strategy.
T
o market its new offerings to global consumers, the group will take part in international packaging industry
trade shows, including Cosmopack Bologna (Italy) from 15 to 18 March, Ipack IMA in Milan (Italy) from 29 May to 1 June and Achema in Frankfurt (Germany) from 11 to 15 June. At Cosmopack, the Marchesini Group will demo an innovative end-of-line jar packaging system and five stand-alone machines by Dumek. It will also market its new cosmetics division that is situated near its headquarters in Pianoro (Italy). This business unit is set to make Marchesini even more competitive, with the group earmarking cosmetics as a key industry for growth. Marchesini’s machinery and equipment is available in South Africa from
Marchesini’s Farplus C is an automatic machine suitable for overwrapping cartons and/or regular shaped single or bundled products in a six-sided complete wrap with lateral envelope folds
The MAV 60 is an automatic alternated-
Dumek technologies. The Melter 120 mixes, distributes and stores products and helps the turbo-
MGSA Consulting.
A CLOSER LOOK
The turbo-emulsifiers are managed and programmed using software that exploits
perfumes of all shapes and sizes, to dot seal
emulsifiers in one of the heating phases,
and tear tape.
be it watery or fatty. When equipped with
The Farplus C and MAV 60 are connected
a special mixing system, it can prepare
motion machine with a robotic product
to each other by a Robocombi, which
certain cosmetics that don’t require
infeed and a conveyor system that stands
moves the incoming box onto the infeed
the more sophisticated functions of the
the carton upright. These new features
belt that conveys it to the end wrapping
turbo emulsifiers.
improve its speed and ergonomics.
station. Once on the belt, the carton is
Farplus C is an automatic wrapper
automatically positioned and pushed
available in standard and optimised
against the film, which is wrapped around
versions. The standard option has side
it by a comb drive. This precise functionality
guiding belts while guiding plates are
enables other processes and prevents
included on the optimised version
cartons from touching one another.
to package cosmetics with the dotseal system.
PROCESSING SOLUTIONS
Farplus C is an automatic wrapper available in standard and optimised versions The TL 132 unit dissolves and
Marchesini also offers three turbo-emulsifiers
homogenises the product (with an in-line
ensures precision and delicacy in product
from the Dumek brand. These include Turbo-
or recirculation system), which is perfect for
handling and can handle unusually shaped
Mek with capacity of 25, 200 and 600ℓ; a
processing cold emulsions without using a
products. The Farplus C also has a robotic
Melter 120 and a homogeniser/dissolver
vacuum. Thanks to its trolley structure, the
product infeed and a product bypass
TL 132. The Turbo-Mek vacuum turbo-
unit offers ease of use and versatility, so it
system outside the machine to ensure non-
emulsifiers are designed to process liquid
can be moved around to interface it with
stop production, reaching 80 packages
and creamy products such as emulsions,
other containers. •
per minute. This wrapper is excellent for
serums, oils, balms, gels and lotions.
processing cosmetics. It can handle with
Special versions of these machines can
top quality a variety of closure methods from
process makeup products like mascara and
standard closure for individually packed
foundation, hair dyes, toothpaste and mud
products and grouped products such as
or clay products.
The automatic infeed of the MAV 60
46
| MARCH 2018 | Packaging Review
Marchesini Group – www.marchesini.com MGSA Consulting – www.mgsaconsulting.co.za
EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE.
Efficiency is the distinctive factor that marks our approach to the packaging industry, from studying customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; specific needs to providing competitive solutions and personal after sales services.
MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE. Tel. +27 (0)11 958 0412 Mobile +27 (0) 82 460 2766
EXCLUSIVE AGENT FOR MARCHESINI GROUP
info@mgsaconsulting.co.za www.mgsaconsulting.co.za
WWW.MARCHESINI.COM
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Diploma awards and
AGM highlights
February is always a busy month for Coschem. The prize giving dinner for the Diploma in Cosmetic Science students took place on 5 February and its AGM on 9 February.
T
his year’s prize giving dinner for
efficient within your company and make
went to Christelene Visser. Patricia Kruger
the cosmetic science diploma
magic in the industry.’
from Sensient South Africa was present
students marked the end of an era
Norman Sanan, one of the original
at the prize giving to the award to Visser.
for education at The Society of Cosmetic
founding members of Coschem, was also
She said it takes a special person to be
Chemists (Coschem). Jill Gardiner has
present at the awards. He congratulated
creative, connect the dots and make their
officially stepped down as the education
Jill and Roy Gardiner on being outstanding
presentation engaging and fun. Patricia
officer, handing over the reins to Kudzai
educators and told the students they are
was also excited to see so many young
Gwazira (ex-Bliss Chemicals), who Jill will
part of a great and significant movement
and unfamiliar faces at the prize giving
mentor for the year.
in the South African cosmetics industry.
dinner, which means the industry will be
Addressing the students, lecturers
welcoming a lot more ‘young blood’ in the
and other special guests for the last time
TOP ACHIEVERS IN 2017
at Gino’s Restaurant in Robertsham,
Melissa Govender was named the Top
Johannesburg, Jill said the students have
Module 1 Student.
years to come.
AGM UPDATE
taught her the importance of having
Megan Bennett of Indigo Brands won
a sense of humour. She reminded the
the Jill Gardiner Award as the Top Module
networking, a new president and two
students to be proud of their diploma – a
2 Student. She also won the Norman
new council members were some of the
qualification that has become sought
Sanan Award for the Top Module 2
highlights from Coschem’s annual general
after in the cosmetics industry.
Project. Bennett received a cash prize and
meeting (AGM).
Become efficient within your company and make magic in the industry
complimentary ticket to attend the 2018
Gin infusion, sound financials, excellent
Ettiene Retief, the society’s accounting
Coschem Scientific Conference taking
officer from FTR Accounting Services
place on 5 and 6 September at Bytes
reported Coschem is still in a stable
Conference Centre in Midrand, Gauteng.
financial situation with assets exceeding
The P&C Review Essay Award for the
R5 million as at 31 December 2017. ‘The
Module 1 Assignment was presented
society remains an NPO and is still exempt
to Nikita Venter from Savannah Fine
from taxation,’ he reconfirmed.
‘Well done to everyone who has
Chemicals. Venter received a voucher and
completed this multifaceted diploma
her essay has been published in this edition
on the importance of becoming an
that requires critical thinking skills and
of the magazine, on page 36.
active part of the IFSCC to be in the
attention to detail,’ said Jill. ‘You can take the course teachings and become
The Sensient South Africa Most Creative Award for the Top Module 2 Presentation,
Roy also addressed AGM attendees
running to host an IFSCC congress in South Africa in the future. This includes
DIPLOMA AWARDS
Roy Gardiner, Kudzai Gwazira and Jill Gardiner
48
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Megan Bennett and Norman Sanan
Christelene Visser and Patricia Kruger
Jill Gardiner and Megan Bennett
SPOTTED AT THE AGM
//ASSOCIATION NEWS
COSCHEM’S 2018 OFFICE BEARERS: • Kirsten Scott handed the presidency over to Ivor Zwane • Rene Spada was elected as vice president • Wayne van Wyk was re-elected as honorary secretary
Ettiene Retief
Michael Butt, Wayne van Wyk and Roy Gardiner
• Roy Gardiner was re-elected as honorary treasurer • Kim MacCallum and Samantha Pols were voted onto council as new members • 2018 council includes Amanda Dahl, Charmaine du Preez, Roy Gardiner, Jill Gardiner, Kudzai Gwazira, Patricia Kruger, Kim MacCallum, Ronald Makola, Samantha Pols, Kirsten Scott, Percy Sibanda, Rene Spada, Wayne van Wyk and Ivor Zwane • Erica de Kock was re-nominated to chair the Natal Chapter and Jacques Strydom will now chair the Cape Town Chapter.
Kirsten Scott and Ivor Zwane
Darryl Mostert, Riana Oosthuizen, Bronwen St John-Ayre and Bridget MacDonald
Lynette Swart, Carla Melless and Erika de Kock
Visit www.coschem.co.za for more information about the society, the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science and its upcoming events.
attending and presenting papers at
Ivor Zwane and Samantha Pols
Jill Gardiner and Karen Maier
Zone 1 conferences and having Coschem representation on the IFSCC praesidium. If anyone is interested in presenting at an upcoming IFSCC conference or congress, they are encouraged to send an email to Bridget Macdonald (bridget@coschem. co.za) proposing their presentation or research. • David Bass and Veronica Lintner
Percy Sibanda and Liesl Keulder
Module 2 Students who attended the prize giving dinner
Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review, and Nikita Venter
Module 1 Students who attended the prize giving dinner
P C Review | MARCH 2018 |
49
time Tea Careers Word Search Find and circle all of the Careers that are hidden in the grid. The words may be hidden in any direction. ACCOUNTANT
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TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
DOCTOR FIRE FIGHTER
MAIL CARRIER MECHANIC
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
PHARMACIST PILOT
SECRETARY
Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
TEACHER
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
Answers in the next issue. Afriplex....................................................25.........www.afriplex.co.za
Millchem.................................................35.........www.millchem.co.za
Bruker......................................................27.........www.bruker.com/optics
Natchem.................................................31.........www.payanbertrand.com
Clariant.....................................................5.........www.clariant.com/personalcare
o6 Agencies......................................... OFC.........www.o6southafrica.com
Cosmetic Export Council of SA.................20.........www.cecosa.co.za
Pyrotec....................................................45.........www.packmark.co.za
Evonik......................................................40.........www.evonik.com
Quintessence Collections........................ 17.........www.quintessence.co.za
Fourchem................................................23.........www.fourchem.co.za
Sachet Manufacturers.............................24.........www.sachet.co.za
Fried International Imports.......................43.........www.fii.co.za
Savannah Fine Chemicals........................39.........www.savannah.co.za
Kirsch Pharma...................................... OBC.........www.kirschpharma.com
Sensetek..................................................29.........www.sensetek.biz
Luzi Fragrance Compounds..................... 11.........www.luzi.ch
Symrise.................................................. IFC.........www.symrise.com
Mane.......................................................33.........www.mane.com
Symscent.................................................28.........www.symscent.co.za
Materia Medica........................................ 15.........www.materiamedica.co.za
Wrapsa.................................................... 19.........www.wrapsa.co.za
MGSA Consulting.....................................47.........www.mgsaconsulting.co.za
Zinplex Cosmeceutical............................21.........cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za
50
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and
and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown
closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is
seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff
your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &
agents I Concentrates
cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
The largest independent producer in the world of
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.
www.brb-international.com
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme
Your No. 1 industry leader
offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social
for the most comprehensive
needs and well being.
ranges of both synthetic and
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across
natural colours – used in food,
SA, cosmetics are used as tools
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to address visible side effects of
industrial applications.
treatment to assist patients to restore
Tablet coatings – manufactured,
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supplied and marketed globally
with confidence.
under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.lgfb.co.za
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Your global partner for premium quality products
Pharma For the pharmaceutical industry we produce active ingredients and excipients for oral and injection applications (e. g. for infusion and dialysis solutions, oral rehydration salts, tablets or capsules and many more). Biotechnology Cosmetics We supply raw materials and mixtures for the biotechnological production of enzymes and for the production of monoclonal antibodies and different recombinant products.
Kirsch Pharma South Africa (PTY Ltd.) Tel: +27 (011)-392-5171/2 Fax : +27 (011) 392-5130 Email: meetus@kirschpharma.co.za Website: www.kirschpharma.com
Nutrition In the field of special nutrition we offer ingredients and raw materials for the production of infant nutrition, nutraceuticals and dietary foods. Cosmetics We supply active ingredients, excipients and raw materials, among others for the production of ointments and creams for dermatological and dental applications. Veterinary On behalf of the veterinary industry we produce active ingredients, excipients and special feed additives for oral and injection applications.