Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review - May 2017

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

May 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 5

www.pharmacos.co.za

Your partner in analytical services

How to optimise formulations for Ethnic consumers Anti-ageing inventions that promise beautiful skin Securing propellant supply for the aerosols industry

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

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Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

Contents

MAY

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

Seen at

in-cosmetics Global

May 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 5

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6

NEWS

12

Adcock Ingram acquires Virtual Logistics Evonik’s Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0 goes live

10 PRODUCT NEWS What’s new in South Africa

12 EVENTS Highlights from in-cosmetics Global 2017

Beauty boosters and buzzwords

16 ANTI-AGEING CLR addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin care Accelerating epidermal self-renewal New ingredient launches and industry trends

24 ETHNIC CARE Beat hair shrinkage with Myrica Fruit Wax J Strickland Africa celebrates African hair care Croda expands its centre of excellence

20

Local efficacy data revealed for Sepiwhite MSH The ideal ingredients for Type 4 hair products

36 AEROSOLS Puregas commissions new tank installation Major upgrades completed at Afrox

40 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY Innovative filler-binder from Meggle Lab-scale solution for rapid innovation Avaya takes mid-market companies to the cloud

PackagingREVIEW45

N SOUTH AFRICA

cos.co.za www.pharma

The route to

greener pastures

48

Volum May 2017 |

e 43 | Number

5

47 Closures, Pumps & Dispensers

Optimum ns solufotir o carton and board

Moco helps you make the right packaging choice

48 Carton & Board Integrated solutions, new ideas and fresh technology

ing Perfect packag to fit your brand

l wins technica Blister pack ova tion trophy inn

Marchesini’s FRB 500 machine

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

Celebrating local successes

B

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas

This edition also features the latest

eauty is big business. This was confirmed yet again at in-cosmetics

developments in the anti-ageing category

Global, which organisers are calling

(page 16), from actives based on

a ‘resounding success’. It was

epigenetics and the concept of ageing

another very busy show, with a strong focus

well to those developed using trending

on the European, American, Middle Eastern

ingredients such as turmeric.

In our bumper Ethnic Care feature on

and Asian personal care markets. While it’s interesting and inspiring to learn about

page 24, you can read about several

these global developments, more African-

ingredients for multicultural formulations and

focused content is key to grow the African

how one supplier has taken the necessary

personal care industries. Despite this, the

steps to ask African consumers what they

South African cosmetics industry is booming

want from their hair and skin care products.

Technology comes under the spotlight

and local suppliers are being recognised

Contributors: Cristina Davi, Danny Drew, Elena Cañadas, Harald van der Hoeven, Júlia Comas, Martina Heldermann, Núria Almiñana, Raquel Delgado ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

by their international counterparts for

in the Pharmaceutical Focus on page 40.

their excellent sales performance. At in-

Interesting reads include a new lab-scale

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

cosmetics, Greentech awarded Natchem for

solution to accelerate the development of

CIRCULATION

being the top performing distributor among

medicines, and ways in which mid-market

all its distributors worldwide, and Merck

pharma companies can utilise cloud

South Africa’s performance materials division

services to benefit their businesses.

Aarifah Nosarka rounds up some

has won the company’s sales award for the EMEA region for two consecutive years.

interesting content in our regular

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

PACKAGING REVIEW section. On page 47,

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

she shares expert advice on how

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

to select the right dispenser

Art Director: David Kyslinger

growth and development. One example

for your cosmetics product,

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

is Cirebelle, which continues to develop its

while new solutions

local market offering and is now home to

for carton and board

a fully functional, world-class laboratory.

packaging are discussed

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

Turn to page 14 now to find out more about

on page 48.

These local successes form the basis of the May edition of Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review, as we celebrate

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

this and its analytical services for niche markets. Another example, featured on

I hope you enjoy

MANAGING DIRECTOR

page 26, is the launch of an Ethnic hair care

this edition.

Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

manufacturing facility in Durban where

Bridget McCarney

J Strickland products are being produced

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

under license.

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Technical director of Lunar Pharmaceuticals

HEAD OFFICE

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

Dr Trevor Baillie

John Knowlton

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

4

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

IMCD can help you source the most innovative materials in the industry, as well as functional ingredients to optimise your formulations in personal care, pharma and home care.

We are the proud distributors for:

IMCD SA

I

275 Oak Avenue, Randburg 2194

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TEL: +27 11 570 4260

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FAX: +27 11 293 2069

News

Adcock Ingram acquires Virtual Logistics IN A SIGNIFICANT move to expand its distribution

The reach of over 3 000 destinations, currently

combine the two companies’ schemes under the

offering, Adcock Ingram has acquired Virtual Logistics,

serviced by Virtual Logistics, will enhance and

new structure, which will assist in achieving our

a national and cross border fine distribution company.

expand the Adcock Ingram offering of over 6 000

transformation objectives,’ Krige adds.

The acquisition became effective in April.

drop points, allowing greater choice in the route to

Jeanette Charlton, MD and owner of Virtual Logistics

market for all industry stakeholders. This is important

will join the Adcock Ingram Distribution management

Ingram is the only local pharmaceutical company

in the pharmaceutical industry where compliance

team to ensure a seamless integration process. ‘I am

offering a full service pharmaceutical distribution

requirements are non-negotiable.

excited about the future of Virtual Logistics and this

Already a well-established logistics operator, Adcock

solution. The company does direct distribution nationally to wholesalers, hospitals, pharmacies, and

‘Adcock Ingram’s valuable owner driver enterprise development initiative will gain critical mass as we

opportunity for the company to reach its full potential under the Adcock Ingram umbrella,’ she comments.

home deliveries to patients.

‘This acquisition brings us closer to realising our strategic vision of owning a fully compliant network and will make us one of the largest fine distributors in the country,’ says Tobie Krige, MD of the Adcock Ingram’s distribution division. ‘Virtual Logistics has an extensive national footprint across South Africa with various tailored solutions. This expanded footprint will complement our operational reach and capacity, allowing for improved service levels to customers, especially pharmacies. Our well established ability to offer a contract service to potential customers, will be

Adcock Ingram’s fleet of trucks will grow with the acquisition of Virtual Logistics

enhanced by this deal.’

CELEBRATING 15 YEARS OF SOUTH AFRICAN SKIN CARE AFRICAN EXTRACTS, FORMULATED with the unique protective benefits of rooibos, offers South African women effective and affordable skin care products.

The company’s brand is inspired by nature, and particularly the rooibos plant, which grows in the Cederberg in the Western Cape.

Rich in antioxidants, naturally soothing and proven to help skin cope with the challenges of sun exposure, rooibos is recognised worldwide for its skin care benefits.

The bio-active rooibos extract used in African Extracts’ formulations is made from unfermented rooibos with the highest levels of antioxidants. This is to ensure its efficacy in fighting damaging free

TIME CONTROLLED ACTIVE DIFFUSION IN SKIN CARE STRIVING TO REMAIN at the forefront of skin care technology, Optiphi has discovered a revolutionary active ingredient that is driven by its research and development team.

The new time controlled diffusion technology has been designed to improve and prolong the quality of carefully selected active ingredients used in Optiphi’s skin care formulations.

Where it is protected within a highly cross-linked polymeric sphere with a continuous porous network. This innovative protective sphere safeguards the retinol, which is further protected by the airless and lightless packaging used by the brand.

The porous network of the sphere allows the retinol to be continuously delivered onto the skin where it is transported to the deeper dermis layer by means of diffusion, targeting the skin structures responsible for the visible signs of ageing.

According to Optiphi, time controlled diffusion retinol has been proven

radicals on the skin. The products are also formulated with vitamins,

to have the following benefits:

minerals, UV filters, advanced anti-ageing plant complexes, and

• slow absorption thereby reducing

ingredients to reduce shine and prevent breakouts. Skin care products from African Extracts suit women of all ages and skin types.

The brand’s classic day cream SPF15 for normal/combination skin is African Extracts’ flagship product and remains its fastest seller today. The advantage intensive day cream SPF15 is formulated with powerful antioxidants for environmentally stressed skin. The purifying dual action moisturiser is ideal for oily skin.

African Extracts is developed and manufactured in South Africa

skin irritation • porous spheres remain on the skin, providing an additional barrier and diminishing concerns of transdermal delivery • it is easier to formulate with • significantly reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

The new time controlled diffusion technology

for local skin care needs and conditions. The brand is endorsed

will be included in all Optiphi’s retinol-

by Beauty Without Cruelty and the products are free from plastic

containing products. Consumers will be able

micro-beads.

to identify this with the Formula Plus sticker on the packaging.

6

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

News

PERISTALTIC PUMP PERFORMANCE REDEFINED

WATSON-MARLOW FLUID TECHNOLOGY Group recently unveiled its innovative Quantum peristaltic pump with a patented ReNu single-use (SU) technology cartridge. This sets a new standard for high-pressure feed pumps in SU tangential flow filtration, virus filtration and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

Quantum represents a step-change in pump

technology for bioprocessing by enabling higher downstream process yields throughout the pressure range. It delivers virtually pulse-free linear flow, lowest shear and easy validation aligned with BPOG guidelines. It also outperforms other pumps by delivering higher accuracy with flow linearity

NEXT LEVEL SENSORY TOOL IS LAUNCHED

independent of back-pressure, removing the need for flow meters and load cells.

BUILDING ON THE success of its initial Sensory

eliminating alignment errors.

Another major benefit is ultra-low shear, half that of diaphragm pumps, which increases product viability to help maximise process yield. In addition, an integrated 4 000:1 speed control ratio allows users to sustain constant transmembrane pressure in micro and ultrafiltration. Being limited to a 200:1 control ratio in HPLC gradient work is now a thing of the past.

The user interface is located at the front of the pump, enabling visual confirmation of operating state and easy access to pump controls even when skid mounted. The ReNu SU technology cartridge, which is simple to install, enables its aseptic fluid paths to be positioned quickly and accurately. The cartridge also slides effortlessly into position allowing for a change of fluid path in minutes whilst

Kaleidoscope, Evonik’s personal care business line is now bundling its global expertise in formulation design, emulsifi ers and sensory into Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0. This is an evolution of the company’s online interactive tool, which helps formulators obtain the desired skin feel for a product.

Its unique functionality displays a vast range of cosmetics formulations in the context of their sensory characteristics. The impact of emulsifi ers and formulation design on the skin feel is also showcased. The online tool was created using statistical analysis of data obtained from a sensory panel.

Ingredients that offer broad formulation fl exibility are becoming more important for

Interest grows for next generation natural materials THE NATURALNESS AND multi-functionality of materials are emerging as important purchase factors

formulators looking to develop consumer

for personal care products all over the world. The increased desire for a natural and healthy lifestyle

desirable products. Tego Care PBS 6, a

has intensified customer demand for biocompatible, cost-effective cosmetics with extended shelf life.

versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifi er fully based

According to Frost & Sullivan, the harmful effects of synthetic ingredients on the environment as well

on renewable sources, provides this fl exibility

as undesirable side effects such as allergies, skin irritations and skin reddening are hastening this

when formulating a range of skin care

switch to natural materials.

products. It is differentiated by a wide variety of sensory profiles.

Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0 can also help

‘Material suppliers’ primary area of focus is providing natural compositions using natural active ingredients such as vegetable oils,’ notes Frost & Sullivan TechVision research analyst, Marta Serafin. ‘Consequently, there is intense focus on nanomaterials and antimicrobials, which ensure

formulators find ingredients that can impart

the stabilisation of these highly reactive ingredients and extend their shelf life. Delivery systems

innovative textures to add a fun element to

and dermal fillers for smooth and supple texture as an alternative to dermal surgeries are also vital

consumers’ daily beauty routines. Examples

research areas.’

include Evonik’s caring oil release cream, which has a surprising cream texture, and the magic cream to milk, which releases milk-like droplets during application.

Advances in Material Technologies for Personal Care, a part of Frost & Sullivan’s TechVision growth partnership service programme, finds that large chemical companies are already trying to improve the sustainability of their products. For instance, in April 2016, BASF presented new products in line with its motto, ‘all about tomorrow’, to promote green chemistry in personal care products.

The voice of the customer is the biggest influencer of the personal care industry and this compels manufacturers to invest significantly in R&D. Additionally, the industry is beset by a lack of uniform legislation, which challenges global handling. For example, while the Chinese market requires animal testing, the European and US markets forbid it.

‘The US is currently leading the personal care industry in terms of market participation and the number of patents obtained,’ notes Serafin. ‘The strongest market adoption and innovations will be from Asia, especially Japan and South Korea. The highly developed online sales channel is further aiding the expansion of Asian cosmetics into the European and US markets, connecting consumers directly with producers.’

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

7

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SAPICS 2017 4 to 7 June Century City Conference Centre, Cape Town www.conference.sapics.org

CPHi China 20 to 22 June Shanghai New Int’l Expo Centre, China www.cphi.com/china

Coschem morning refresher: Costing your Finished Product 21 June Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, JHB www.coschem.co.za

MakeUp in Paris 2017 22 to 23 June Carrousel du Louvre, Paris, France www.makeup-in-paris.com/paris-en

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| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Cosmoprof North America 9 to 11 July Las Vegas, US www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Coschem Refresher: Preservatives 26 July Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, JHB www.coschem.co.za

August AMA Introduction to Aerosol Technology 16 to 17 August Rosslyn, Pretoria www.aerosol.co.za

Coschem JHB Ladies’ Day 17 August JHB Country Club, Auckland Park www.coschem.co.za

Old is

the new young WEB WITH ON THE

//

www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-and-opinions/1978

T

he average global life

2016, as well as economic and sales

procedures, such as injectable fillers.

expectancy is now 72 years,

data from its Passport platform. For

Companies are also rethinking their

up from 69 years in 2005.

example, the boundaries of old age

marketing by adapting or segmenting

Over the past decade, the

continue to shift as we live longer and

their products and packaging. For

global percentage of people aged over

take better care of our health and

example, greater product customisation

60 years grew from 10 to 12 percent, and

wellbeing. The number of over-60s has

is more evident in the cosmetics industry

by 2020 this fi gure is expected to rise 13

risen by a third over the last decade,

along with the use of older icons in

percent. This data on the world’s ageing

making this the fastest growing consumer

advertising campaigns.

population and the implications it has

segment. As a result, there is a rise in

on brands are discussed in Euromonitor

products that address consumers’ age-

and-opinions/1978 to learn more about

International’s white paper entitled Old is

management needs.

the global population and ageing trends,

Visit www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-

According to the white paper, a

as well as how to target consumers

large and growing market has arisen

looking for anti-ageing, holistic and

for products and treatments that

fitness lifestyle products. Follow the link to

Euromonitor’s Global Consumer Trends

incorporate anti-ageing properties

the Euromonitor webpage to download

Survey of 2016 and its Beauty Survey of

ranging from beauty devices to aesthetic

your free copy of this white paper.

the New Young: How Global Consumers Are Challenging Ageing.

This report includes results from

STAYING UP TO DATE Subscribe to P C Review’s e-newsletters to receive the latest information on industry developments, events, trade shows, seminars and launches, both local and international.

Log onto www.pharmacos.co.za or send an e-mail to celeste.smit@newmediapub.co.za to activate your e-newsletter subscription.

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P C Review | MAY 2017 |

9

STREET HA booster serum Team Dr Joseph has launched a booster serum for mature skins which is formulated with biotechnological hyaluronic acid. It also includes hibiscus extract,

Intelligent skin skin care

said to be a plant-based alternative to Botox, and select luxury ingredients. These fine-tuned, high-tech complexes work together to provide a visibly smooth, firm and youthful glow. Team Dr Joseph skin care products are distributed in South Africa by FutureThis. Go to www.futurethis. co.za to find out more about this brand.

Nimue Skin Technology has launched its new Age Intelligent range

Water saving innovation

recommended for consumers aged 45 and older. The range promises to address the signs of environmentally damaged skin, including dryness, dehydration, wrinkles, loss of elasticity

24-hour care

and sagging. The key active ingredients include botanical extracts, advanced peptides and acetylated glucuronic acid formulated in a hybrid delivery system using polarised water and liposomal vesicles. Nimue’s Age

Label.m is making it easy to save water with its range of dry shampoos. The products

SkinPhD promises to protect skin from sun up

promise to refresh hair in-

to sun set. The brand offers a day care lotion

between shampooing using

and night care cream packaged in a 50mℓ

natural rich starch to disperse

Intelligent range includes day and

oil. The dry shampoos also

tube. These effective and easily absorbed

night creams, a face serum, and an eye serum – all available in selected spas and salons nationwide.

dermatological preparations help reverse

work as a brilliant matte

the visible signs of ageing. The day lotion

texturiser for a soft touch,

is formulated with a linoleic/linolenic acid

and velvet finish. Label.m Dry Shampoo offers a standard

complex while the night care cream includes a scientifically advanced biomimetic peptide to

option and one specially

stimulate natural collagen production. Got to

formulated for brunettes. These products are packaged in a

www.skinphd.co.za to find out more about this

200ml aerosol can and sold at

professional spa and salon brand.

Fighting photoageing SkinCeuticals, a cosmeceutical skin care brand powered by L’Oréal, has launched Metacell Renewal

selected Splush stores.

Intense and pure

The French luxury house

B3. This comprehensive corrective

Fragrance Du Bois recently

treatment addresses the early signs

revealed the latest addition

of photoageing. The product brings

to its range of exquisite

cutting-edge, effective ingredients

products – Oud Intense. The

to consumers for a re-clarified

fragrance is said to be an unadulterated,

tone and retightened skin surface.

daring expression of Oud at is finest. This key ingredient is 100 percent pure and

SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3

undiluted, delivering one of nature’s most prized treasures in its simplest, most

is available online from the following

fundamental form. Provenance and sustainably are key to Fragrance Du Bois’

sites: www.dermastore.co.za; www.

ethos. The company condemns the use of illegal sources of Oud, which is why

skinmiles.com and www.store.

only pure Oud oil is used in this fragrance. The oil is produced from trees on

skinrenewal.co.za.

the company’s own plantations. Visit www.fragrancedubois.com for more info about this fragrance creation.

10

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Créations soins®

NORDIC BEAUTY from The Innovation Company® The Nordic Beauty range consists of natural materials from Finland with a long history of use as healing or beautifying ingredients.

They meet the ISO 16128-1 standard for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and are ideal materials for natural beauty products ranging from skin and body care to professional beauty and wellness treatments.

• Nordic Beauty Peat • Nordic Beauty Pine bark • Nordic Beauty Birch Sap and Leaf extract • Nordic Beauty Berry extracts

Number of blood cells (10s videos) before and 20 minutes after application on five subjects

Hydration (conductance) (μS) depending on the time before and 30 minutes after Nordic Beauty Application vs. Glycerin and Hyaluronic acid 250

20

15

10

5 5

200

150

100

50 0

0

Subject nro

Conductance (μS)

Number of blood cells

25

1

2 Number of blood cells before application

3

4

5

Number of blood cells 20 minutes after application

The number of blood cells has increased by 78% in average after 20 minutes when using Nordic Beauty Peat mask (100% peat).

Before Nordic Beauty Peat

After 30 min Glycerin (10% in water)

Hyaluronic Acid (1% in water)

In 30 minutes, the hydration has improved by 711% with Nordic Beauty Peat, 480% with Glycerin (10% in water) and 9% with Hyaluronic Acid (1% in water).

The Global

beauty spot

ExCeL London, the host venue for in-cosmetics Global 2017

Back in London after 15 years, in-cosmetics Global 2017 was a great success for exhibitors and visitors alike. Colour cosmetics, sustainability and natural ingredients were among the biggest highlights.

O

ver three action-packed

Its Nordic Beauty natural ingredients were

Defending skin against sunlight

days, industry professionals

launched at the show. Sourced from the

DSM launched Pepha-Age, a sustainably

visited ExCeL London, in the

forests and fields of Finland, these ingredients

sourced extract produced using freshwater

UK, to connect with suppliers,

are inspired by the traditional use of natural

microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens,

learn about new ingredient launches and

resources within the region. The star of the

which has high resistance to sunlight.

attend educational seminars, workshops

Nordic Beauty product range is peat – a

The extract is produced in state-of-the-art

and tutorials. More than 100 countries were

highly active biomass rich in humic and

photo-bioreactors using a biotech process,

represented this year, with 72 percent of the

fulvic acids. It is an ideal for face masks and

and contains a unique mixture of amino

audience travelling from outside the UK.

body treatments, while peat extract can be

This reaffirms in-cosmetics Global’s position

used in various skin care applications.

as the world’s leading event for personal care ingredients.

This year’s event saw 8 784 unique visitors

Other ingredients in the range include pine bark, Birch sap and leaf extract, and various berry extracts. To showcase

(pre-audit) from 105 countries meet with

these ingredients in finished products, The

780 exhibitors.

Innovation Company produced a range of handmade bar soaps, which are perfect for

Sun, skin and colour innovations The Innovation Company, represented in

the South African market.

The Innovation Company is also renowned

South Africa by Fourchem, wowed visitors

for its sun care formulation and testing

with its golden stand and a long list of

expertise. To showcase this, it presented two

innovative offerings showcased in stunning

lipsticks formulated with a UV filter, bringing

applications.

the benefit of sun protection to lip care

Based on its novel Fiflow BB61 ingredient,

products. This is also possible in a clear gloss

the company’s bubbling masks are

format for men, and in coloured lip gloss

available in several variations with different

for children.

properties. Fiflow BB61 is a combination of fully fluorinated perfluorocarbons, which have the capacity to carry oxygen to the skin.

BROADENING HORIZONS IN LONDON Karen Coomber and Esna Colyn at the Silab facility in France in June 2014 on their journey to upgrade the Placecol skin care range.

Visiting in-cosmetics and reconnecting with companies like Silab and Rahn brought back many memories for Colyn of these impressive companies

AFTER THE JOURNEY to upgrade the Placecol skin care range with Karen Coomber, the brand’s original formulator, the newly launched Placecol Illuminé skin care range won the 2016

The Nordic Beauty ingredients from The Innovation Company showcased in various applications, including bar soaps, at in-cosmetics

Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review/Symrise

New Product Competition.

Esna Colyn, Imbalie Beauty’s CEO, travelled to in-cosmetics and had this to say about her show experience: ‘I attended a workshop on “the future of anti-ageing skin care” and learnt that it takes five to seven years to launch a new active ingredient in the skin care industry.

Considering our journey of 24 months to relaunch the Placecol skin care range, this was actually much shorter than the norm. The quality of the exhibition stands was of a very high standard and most impressive. It was great for me to learn about the new trends.

For organisations that want to be leading and innovative, it is considered a must-attend event. I am grateful that our group received the opportunity to visit in-cosmetics and would like to continue to attend annually.’

12

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

developments, providing the highest quality

Cosmetics) took the Silver prize for Emulfeel,

ingredients as well as expert formulation

while Evonik won Bronze.

support and technical advice.

In the Green Ingredient category, run in partnership with Ecovia Intelligente, Naturex

Awarding excellence and innovation

won the Gold award for Eliorelys. Silver went

Passioline from Laboratoires Expanscience

and Biolie received Bronze for Greentense.

to Kahai SAS for its new Cacay Oil product,

and FiberHance BM Solution from Ashland

In the Make-up Bar category, Ronald

took home the Innovation Zone Best

Britton was named the inaugural winner for

Ingredient Gold Awards in the active and

its cosmetics Bio-glitter. Nikko Chemicals

functional ingredient categories respectively.

received Silver for its Iro-Odori jelly eye

In the actives category, Gattefossé’s Gatuline

shadow and Lubrizol’s Avalure Flex-6 Polymer

Link ‘n Lift won Silver and Lipotec’s Reproage

was presented with the Bronze award.

peptide (from Savannah Fine Chemicals)

In-cosmetics Global 2018 will be

acids, vitamins (B3), lutein, algal sugars and

won Bronze. In the functional category,

taking place in Amsterdam from 17 to 19

minerals (zinc).

Hallstar’s Micah (from Millchem) and Inter

April, with 90 percent of exhibitor space

Actifs – Aceto Corporation’s Helicoidal

already booked.

The results of in vitro tests on PephaAge showed it stimulates skin’s resilience

Emulsion Technology both received Silver

Visitors can download the full post

through improved fibroblast viability. It also

awards. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics took the

show report at www.in-cosmetics.com/

regenerates skin post UV and blue light

Bronze prize for Siligel.

showreview2017, which provides access to

stress, while increasing collagen levels. Ex

In the Sensory category Biesterfeld

more exclusive show statistics, as well as

vivo studies confirmed the collagen increase

scooped the top prize for its Body & Seoul

in-depth guides on the Innovation Zone,

and revealed a reduced number of sunburn

formulation kit. Chemyunion (Chemgrit

Sensory Bar and Make-up Bar products. ·

cells after exposure to UVB radiation.

Value through expertise IMCD launched its Big on Beauty campaign

SPOTTED AT IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL

at the show, highlighting its passion for

1

M ichel Colson, and Liezl and Will Coetsee (Botanica Natural Products)

2

M axine Robertson (Symrise), Bridget MacDonald and Roy Gardiner (Coschem), Brenda Groves (CJP Chemicals) and Karin Barends (Symrise)

3

Johan Hennessey and Allison Barty (Siyeza Fine Chem)

4

Robyn Brown (Botanichem) and Darryl Mostert (Chemgrit Cosmetics)

5

M arcel van Rooyen and Chris Damen (Millchem) with Karen Maier (Merck)

6

D r Sarah Venter (EcoProducts)

developing innovative cosmetics and personal care products. The focus saw the company paying homage to the importance of cosmetics in everyday life. Used by men and women of all races across every

1

continent, these products accompany

2

consumers throughout their entire existence – from childhood right through to their senior years.

With an extensive technical and commercial team of highly experienced professionals from across the world, IMCD has detailed industry knowledge. It aims to help its partners achieve success in their

3

4

5

6

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

13

Company Focus

Delivering innovation where it counts

Sean Mashimbyi operating the Spectrum Two IR Spectrometer

With its strong technical capabilities, unique locally produced wax ingredients and the desire to drive skills development at university level, Cirebelle stands out in the cosmetics industry.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review reveals the company’s latest news.

C

irebelle continues to develop its market offering to ensure it remains relevant while providing value. In June

2016, the company set out to establish a world-class laboratory, which is now fully functional. According to Sean Mashimbyi, Cirebelle’s analytical services supervisor, the facility is fitted with some of the most technologically advanced laboratory equipment, including a Clarus 580 Gas Chromatograph and Spectrum Two IR Spectrometer from PerkinElmer. The Sean Mashimbyi performing an oil content analysis

Cirebelle is ideally positioned to provide analytical services to niche markets like the cosmetics industry

quality control laboratory also boasts an oil content apparatus, which is a highly specialised instrument and possibly one of only two in the country. This is used to quantify the quality of Cirebelle’s waxbased products.

‘With our fully functional high-tech laboratory, Cirebelle is ideally positioned to provide outsourced analytical services in southern Africa,’ Mashimbyi explains. ‘Our capabilities are vast, ranging from ingredient and product specific competencies to research and development and technical expertise to assist customers with formulations and new product development.’

Cirebelle’s first intern, Kellinah Dumani

Industry skills development programme When P C Review first revealed Cirebelle’s plans to establish a laboratory, the magazine also highlighted the company’s programmeto launch an internship programme. This is aimed at students looking to gain much needed on-the-job experience in the industry. The first intern to partake in the programme is currently employed at Cirebelle and working closely with Mashimbyi in the laboratory. The company is now expanding the programme beyond its lab to various other functions within the business, such as marketing, engineering and research and development. ·

Cirebelle – www.cirebelle.com

14

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Anti-ageing

Facing an

underrated skin problem SyriCalm CLR (PC) from CLR Chemisches Laboratorium shows immense benefits in formulations intended for sensitive or stressed skin. Technical marketing director, Harald van der Hoeven discusses how the active ingredient addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin care.

T

o maintain its barrier properties,

lipid-rich matrix making the SC the actual

skin is constantly in a process

physical barrier between the body and the

of renewal. In this process the

outside world. The turnover time of a healthy

keratinocytes, which make up

functioning epidermis is estimated to be

the epidermis, go through a continuous

between two and five weeks, depending on

process of differentiation. The result is a

factors such as age.

well-established stratum corneum (SC), in which corneocytes are embedded in a

The SC is extremely vulnerable to external attacks. For instance, exposure to UV light

or surfactants, as well as sudden changes in environmental humidity and temperature all have a negative impact on the SC’s quality.

This not only influences the physical barrier properties of the skin, but also negatively affects the layers below the SC. Keratinocytes in the stratum granulosum (SG) can also be affected negatively by external stresses. These are regarded as the ‘real SC factory’ because this is the section of the epidermis where the keratinocytes produce the precursors of the natural moisturising factors and ceramides. This is also where the keratinocytes go through a keratinisation process where they metamorphose into corneocytes. These processes are all fundamentally important

Figure 1: Water gradient in normal skin (green line) compared to that of dry skin (red line)

in building up a strong SC. It is crucial to maintain the quality and activity of the keratinocytes in the SG. In this context, one specific property of these cells demands special attention – namely cellular volume. This is essential for cellular functioning. Negative external influences directly and indirectly induce hyperosmotic stress, and hence the loss of cellular volume in the epidermis.

What is hyperosmotic stress?

This phenomenon can affect keratinocytes in the SG. While the SG has a steep water gradient, SC disruption leads to an increase in water loss and volume degradation of these cells (see Figure 1). At the border between the stratum spinosum and SG, the cells start to lose water. The intracellular water concentration reaches about 40 percent at the border between SG and SC, while at the surface of the skin the cells contain 15 to 30 percent water. This extreme Figure 2: The assessment of taurine efflux and the effect of SyriCalm CLR (PC)

loss of intracellular water in the SG is part of the regular differentiation process.

Hyperosmotically stressed skin shows a significantly elevated loss of intracellular water depicted by the red line in Figure 1.

External stresses lead to an elevated loss of cellular water in the SG. A disruption of its quality – an abundant phenomenon caused by external stress – leads to the drying out of the SC. This is where the corneocytes start absorbing water from the SG. Another cause of hyperosmotic stress is the penetration of electrolytes into the skin, causing keratinocytes to try and

16

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Anti-ageing Figure 3: Treatment with SyriCalm CLR (PC) reduces taurine efflux and strengthens the ability of skin’s cells to deal with hyperosmotic stress

Therefore, in a slower

Radiolabeled taurine was supplemented to

process, osmolytes, of

the skin model during t0 to 48 hours. From

which taurine is the best

t50 to t96 hours, an efflux of the radiolabeled

described in literature,

taurine took place. This was analysed at 72

are pumped into the

and 96 hours (see Figure 3).

keratinocytes, while the

The different treatments with the natural

excess electrolytes are

active showed moderate to significant

drained. Taurine can be

results in helping to reduce the taurine

considered a ‘natural

efflux. At 72 hours, the control skin models,

moisturising factor’ for

which were not treated with the active, had

the keratinocytes in the

lost about 70 percent of all taurine, and at

SG. Its main goal is to

96 hours, more than 80 percent of all taurine

bind water and manage

was lost by the hyperosmotically stressed

cellular volume.

cells in the 3D epidermal skin model.

Despite the highly

These results strongly indicate that, in

intriguing way in

this experiment, the cells had entered the

which the cells deal

previously described vicious cycle. At 72

with hyperosmotic

hours, both the accumulated results of the

stress, their strategy

first and second application, as well as the

has one essential flaw:

single third application, reduced the efflux

taurine is lost by the

significantly to about 50 percent. Together,

keratinocytes in the SG,

all three treatments resulted in a reduction

re-equilibrate the electrolyte concentrations

which starts a vicious cycle of further loss

of taurine efflux to less than 30 percent. After

in the intra- and extracellular compartment.

of cellular volume and barrier repair and

96 hours, the third treatment alone and

When this happens, they pump out cellular

maintenance malfunction. The reduction

all three treatments together still showed

water resulting in a decrease in cellular

of taurine efflux is an important strategy in

significant effects (see Figure 4).

volume. Penetration of electrolytes into

supporting skin’s functionality to perform its

the skin is a phenomenon common in skin

physical barrier function.

exposed to sweat, sea water and urine.

These results confirm that SyriCalm CLR (PC) addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin care, helping cells in the SG to maintain

Reduction of the efflux of taurine

cellular volume and functioning. The active

The active ingredient SyriCalm CLR (PC)

ingredient, which is available in South

Interestingly, keratinocytes have a strategy

(INCI: Water, Phragmite Communis Extract,

Africa from IMCD, plays a beneficial role in

to deal with hyperosmotic stress. The loss

Poria Cocos Extract) significantly helps in

maintaining and repairing skin’s physical

of cellular volume is almost immediately

reducing the efflux of taurine, as measured

barrier properties. This was also confirmed

compensated by electrolytes being

on epidermal skin models undergoing

in vivo, where UV-induced barrier disruption,

pumped into the intracellular space. As

hyperosmotic stress. An in vitro 3D

measured as an increase in TEWL, showed

these electrolytes attract water, the water

epidermal skin model was hyperosmotically

accelerated repair with a formulation

concentration in the keratinocytes and

stressed for a total of 96 hours. It was

containing the active. ·

the cellular volume are re-established.

treated with three different applications of

While this is a quick process, the high

the active ingredient:

concentration of electrolytes in the

• first application at 0 to 48 hours

intracellular space has a negative effect

• second at 24 to 48 hours

on the keratinocytes’ proper functioning.

• third at 48 to 50 hours.

Dealing with hyperosmotic stress

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

17

Anti-ageing

Inspired by epigenetics Lipotec’s Reproage peptide helps reactivate basal cells, triggering the longevity of the epidermis’ self-renewing properties.

The company, which is represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, has proven its efficacy in achieving a smoother, more radiant and younger looking skin. By Júlia

E

pigenetics is gaining interest in the

levels were then detected and quantified by means

cosmetics industry. The term implies a set of

of a hybridisation-based assay. Results showed a

biochemical modifications that modulate

25.4 percent decrease (p<0.001) in the quantity of

gene expression, turning it on or off.

microRNA-145 versus non-treated cells.

Biochemical modifications can occur with cellular

Another test was performed to assess the effect of

ageing, or from environmental and lifestyle factors.

the peptide in increasing the levels of certain stem

They consist of mechanisms that work above the

cell markers.

DNA sequence and include the modification of

HEKs were incubated for 48 hours with one or

histones, DNA methylation, changes in chromatin

five µg/mL Reproage peptide, or they were left

conformation and non-coding RNAs, such as

untreated as a control. RT-PCR was the technique

the microRNAs. These epigenetic modifications

used to quantify the stem cell markers SOX2, OCT4

determine how cells behave and can play a role in

and KLF4, obtaining statistically significant inductions

different physiological functions .

of the three transcription factors, which suggests an

1,2

improvement in the renewal capacity.

The epidermis and its regeneration

Reconstructed human epidermis models were

The cells located in the basal layer, consisting of

used to verify changes in specific cell markers after

stem and progenitor cells, are responsible for the

the treatment with 10µg/mL Reproage peptide

epidermis’ regenerative capacity. Progenitor cells

or with only the medium (control). By means of

are undifferentiated and can proliferate several

immunohistochemistry, keratins K14 and K10 and the

times before starting the differentiation process into

transcription factor p63 were detected in the different

keratinocytes . The transition from the basal to the

epidermal models. They were then further quantified

suprabasal layer involves a change in expression of

through fluorescence microscopy images.

3

characteristic cell markers. Particularly, basal keratin

Results of the peptide treatment showed a 71.3

14 (K14) and p63 (required for a high regenerative

percent decrease in suprabasal K10 and a 325.8

potential) decrease their expression during

percent increase of basal K14, both in a statistically

differentiation, while suprabasal keratin 10 (K10)

significant manner (p<0.001). This indicates the

increases it .

peptide’s ability to support the recovery of the

4

The renewal capacity of basal cells is mainly maintained by the transcription factors OCT4,

basal state.

After incubation with the active ingredient, the

SOX2 and KLF4, which are stem cell markers. The

levels of p63 in basal epidermis were found to

activity of these markers can in turn be regulated

increase by 110.9 percent (p<0.0001).

Comas, Cristina

by microRNAs, such as the microRNA-145 (or

Davi, Elena

miRNA-145). Basal cells are characterised by

Renewal and smoothing skin’s surface

their low miRNA-145 levels, which increase during

A clinical study was performed to evaluate the

differentiation .

self-renewal properties of the epidermis and the

Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado

5

With age, basal cells’ behaviour regulation can

changes in roughness on two panels of female

be impaired, resulting in slower epidermal turnover,

volunteers. The panels consisted of 20 volunteers

which leads to increased skin dullness or roughness.

aged 35 to 40 years old, and another 20 aged

Targeting proliferation maintenance through

50 to 55. They applied a cream containing two

miRNA-145 and stem cell factors in epidermal

percent Reproage peptide and a placebo cream,

cells could be an opportunity to reactivate skin’s

twice a day. Renewal of the stratum corneum was

regenerative properties.

assessed on the volunteers’ skin of the forearm using

With the concept of cell reprogramming in mind,

dihydroxyacetone staining. Colour change was

Reproage peptide was developed to assist in the

assessed by means of spectrophotometry while the

acceleration of the epidermal self-renewal. Several

stratum corneum turnover time (SCTT) was evaluated

in vitro and in vivo studies were performed to support

under different conditions for the two groups. A third

its efficacy.

group of younger subjects (aged 18 to 25) was used to obtain a correlation between SCTT and age from

Test methods and results

the three groups, therefore interpolating the years of

Reproage peptide’s ability to modulate the

rejuvenation after each treatment.

epigenetic factor miR-145 was evaluated in human

18

Results showed a decrease in the SCTT, which

keratinocytes (HEKa). The cells were incubated with

differed between age groups. The SCTT of the group

10µg/mL of the peptide for 24 hours, while non-

aged 35 to 40, treated with the active cream, was

treated cells were used as a control. The miR-145

consistent with skin 13 years younger, whereas

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Anti-ageing Figure 1: Reconstructed 3D images of skin roughness. The reduction in surface depth can be observed as a tendency to change from red to blue

the rejuvenation for the group aged 50 to 55 was consistent with that of skin 17 years younger.

Skin roughness was also evaluated using a microtopography imaging system. After treatment, a reduction in skin surface irregularities was observed (see Figure 1).

Radiant and better-looking skin A second clinical study was performed to assess complexion changes after the application of a cream with two percent Reproage peptide. The cream was applied twice a day for 56 days on the face of 20 female volunteers, aged 35 to 55.

At the end of the treatment, skin luminance (L*) was measured using image analysis software. The L* parameter increased by 1.5 percent (p<0.05), suggesting a more radiant and improved complexion.

Reproage peptide assists in enhancing the regenerative properties of the epidermis, helping achieve the typical behaviour of younger cells and resulting in a more radiant complexion.

The peptide suggests a reprogramming effect on skin, supporting recovery of the basal state. ·

Lipotec – www.lipotec.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za

peptides and synthetic molecules

Reprogramming the skin for a youthful appearance

EPIGENETICS BROUGHT TO COSMETICS

Renewal and smoothing of skin surface in 50-55 years old volunteers revitalized skin behaving as up to

SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 - E-mail: sfc-info@savannah.co.za

LPTC_prms_Reproage_177x130mmHP_ENG_P&C_AAFF.indd 1

17 years younger

41.3% decrease in skin roughness www.lipotec.com All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2017 The Lubrizol Corporation.

5/4/17 12:59

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

19

Anti-ageing

Beauty boosters and buzzwords

Maintaining a youthful look no longer requires going under the knife. This is thanks to major breakthroughs in active ingredients that target the signs of ageing. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review shares the latest antiageing innovations.

T

he beauty industry loves

Targeting consumers over 55 years

buzzwords. This year, the anti-

of age with a key concern of dry/flaky

ageing category is characterised

skin, Aquaxtrem offers intense hydration

by a few distinct ones, including

to overcome feelings of skin discomfort

epigenetics, ‘inflammaging’, well-ageing, marine ingredients, anti-stress, and of course, anti-pollution.

and tightness.

It is said to stimulate skin’s own mechanisms to balance the moisture

With Aquaxtrem, the Provital

content, leaving consumers feeling more

Group, represented in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is addressing

comfortable and ‘happier in their skin’.

New in vivo test results demonstrate

consumers’ needs to age well,

how seniors experienced enhanced skin

or gracefully.

comfort when using Aquaxtrem, positively

Crest Chemicals

Representing ABITEC on products for ageing skin

20

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

T. +27 (0) 11 254 3433 | M. +27 (0) 83 297 0655 E.Angelique.Myburgh@crestchem.co.za 247 15th Road, Randjespark, Midrand, 1685, South Africa PO Box 4280, Midrand, 1685, South Africa crestchem.co.za

HYDRO~KOTE® CAPTEX® STEROTEX® PURECO® CAPROL® CAPMUL® NUTRI SPERSE®

Anti-ageing

Seniors experienced enhanced skin comfort when using Aquaxtrem, positively affecting their well-being

affecting their well-being.

Codif Laboratories,

This sense of comfort

represented in South

is measured using a

Africa by Vantage,

Facial Action Coding

has developed an

System or FACS, which is

active ingredient, which

based on the analysis of

enables sensitive skin to

facial micro expressions.

follow a certain rhythm when

These results show how

faced with the harmful

volunteers’ happiness

effects of a hectic lifestyle.

increased 3.6 points over

It is an extract of the curry

five possible points.

plant, Helichrysum italicum, and while it is not new, the

Relaxing and rejuvenating skin Any stressful condition

company has just released new data on the ingredient.

Water of Helichrysum is rich in

releases cortisol, which is a normal and

aromatic compounds that stimulate

healthy adaptation reflex when released

the production of relaxing molecules,

in small amounts. However, people who

ß-endorphins. This soothes skin a few

are prone to a hectic lifestyle will sustain

minutes after being applied and

high levels of cortisol, which can negatively

strengthens the cutaneous barrier

affect the skin. This can lead to the

to make skin less reactive.

alteration of barrier function and sensitivity

Areaumat Perpetua is a floral water of

symptoms such as redness, itching, tingling,

Helychrisum italicum obtained by low

stinging and inflammation.

temperature vacuum hydro-distillation.

According to research, approximately 50

This technique enables the most delicate

percent of females and 30 percent of males

aromatic compounds in the plant to be

have sensitive skin issues.

extracted. This floral water stimulates

Millchem, through international partnerships, offers speciality ingredients and leading technologies for skin, hair and body care.

JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

21

Anti-ageing

inflammation that has already occurred.

It has been reported that a large

Skin becomes less reactive within a few

amount of carbon is required for the flower

minutes of it being applied and during

to open which is mainly constituted by

testing, a soothing effect was observed

carbohydrates. This is more evident for

in 100 percent of volunteers within five

some cut flowers, including the rose.

minutes. The floral water also protects skin’s

Based on this research, Akoactive

defensive systems, supports cohesion

Queen active ingredient is obtained from

of the dermis and preserves the water

the petals of the English rose by delicate

balance of the skin.

extraction using a mixture of water and glycerin. The result is a scented clear liquid,

A royal active ingredient

rich in polyphenols and carbohydrates.

Akoactive Queen is a unique and noble

The synergic concentration of polyphenols

extract of the English Keira rose petals.

and carbohydrates provides immediate

It contains solubilised flower waxes for

skin hydration and helps to protect skin

the release of a neuro-mediator with

immediate and long-term skin moisturising

from extreme and severe weather agents.

relaxing effects and reduces inflammation

and protection.

Akoactive Queen gives skin a fresh look,

mediators. Sensitive and reactive skins are

The active is supplied in a water-

reduces signs of fatigue, and improves

soluble clear liquid for ease of use, and

skin brightness and radiance. The active

offers protective, nourishing, immediate

ingredient is available in South Africa

composed of 31 amino acids, has several

and long-term hydration, and anti-

from Millchem.

effects. It decreases pain and stress as well

ageing benefits.

therefore immediately relaxed. ß-endorphin, a neuromediator

as increases the feeling of well-being and

In the last decade, several studies

Turmeric, the trending ingredient

healing. It is also produced in the skin by

have been published highlighting flower

Various studies have shown that skin

epidermal keratinocytes and nerve endings

metabolism and how to prolong a flower’s

reveals our innermost feelings, and can

present in the dermis and epidermis.

blooming period. This has provided access

act as a tell-tale sign of trauma, stress and

to new knowledge of the inside of flowers

emotional turmoil. Scientists call this the

and their nutrients.

brain-skin connection, and it’s the focus

Areaumat Perpetua prevents the inflammatory response and reduces

Global Manufacturer & Supplier of Commodity and Speciality Chemicals We’re in your world, proud supplier of the following ingredients • • • • •

Anti-aging Actives (Cosmetics) Hydrofluoric Acid (Petrochemical, Steel, Industrial) Fluorine (Medical, Electronics) Xenon Difluoride (Electronics) Surface Fluorination of Polymers (Automotive, Agrochemicals)

PO Box 582 I Pretoria 0001 I South Africa T +27 12 305 4444

F +27 12 305 4445

E sales@pelchem.co.za w www.pelchem.com

22

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Anti-ageing

of Vytrus Biotech’s latest ingredient launched at in-cosmetics Global.

TurmeriaZenPRCF is said to be an

Peptides and pollution protection

extracellular matrix, initiating the repair

As we age, the lines of communication

and younger looking skin.’

mechanisms, resulting in smoother, firmer

emotional hydration manager. The active

between our skin and cells break

ingredient is developed from Curcuma

down. As a result, the body no longer

radical protection ingredient, which

longa, a tropical and subtropical plant

produces collagen or elastin in the

prevents premature skin ageing efficiently

characterised by its orange ramified

same quantities to repair skin damage

and continuously over 24 hours. It

rhizome. These modified roots act as

as it did when we were younger. Karen

neutralises the impact of pollutants on

Maier, head of performance

storage and resistance organs, and have excellent regenerative

DID YOU KNOW?

properties. The plant is rich in diarylheptanoids (mainly curcumin)

materials South Africa, at Merck, says the company’s RonaCare

TurmeriaZenPRCF make

Google rates masks are the biggest skin care trend to watch in 2017. This finding is detailed in the search engine’s Beauty Trends 2017 report, which states ‘masking’ is currently the most Googled skin care trend. This is largely fueled by social media such as sheet mask selfies and instagrammable treatments like peel-off masks. Source:

the ingredient a highly

www.thinkwithgoogle.com

lending to it being the most bio-medically researched plant.

The exclusive combination of cell factors in

effective solution to manage hydration on an emotional level. This is coupled with its anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Vytrus Biotech’s products are

Cyclopeptide-5

RonaCare AP is Merck’s premium

the skin by attacking the free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which are formed from exposure to air pollution and/or radiation. RonaCare AP is as efficient as tocopherol and as stable

(alcohol-free) offers

as tocopherol acetate, which means it

an elegant solution

provides ongoing radical protection. It

to this problem. ‘It is

also protects the sebum components,

the first homodetic,

reducing both skin redness and the

cyclic, biomimetic

formation of acne. This ingredient protects

peptide for cosmetics application. It is customised to fit

the skin against infra-red radiation – and as an added benefit – will stabilise UV filters in a formulation. ·

dedicated integrins, or skin surface receptors, which take care of the skin’s communication processes. RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5

distributed locally by Savannah

mimics the transmission of signals

Fine Chemicals.

between the skin cells and the

Merck – www.merck.co.za Millchem – www.millchem.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za Vantage – www.lipochemicals.com

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

23

Ethnic Care

The edge of

innovation Ethnic beauty is one of the most promising vectors of growth in the expanding personal care market. While this market is not new, in recent years the demand for multicultural products has grown thanks to the rising middle class in emerging markets. By Martina Heldermann

Edge control products are also very popular for taming new hair and keeping braids, twists and cornrows in shape

T

offerings on the market and of course intensified competition among brands. This creates increased marketing activity usually resulting in enhanced consumption. For example, in North America the number of Ethnic personal care products launched is growing from year to year. There is also significant expansion in Africa’s hair care market, with conditioners growing by 11 percent encouraged by enhanced internet connectivity and the demands of a rising middle class.

But what products are best suited to the Ethnic consumers’ needs, and what is trending in multicultural beauty? Anti-ageing products have never been that popular as this concern is more dominant among Caucasian consumers. However, products promising to moisturise, brighten and provide an even skin tone are very popular. Multibeneficial alphabet creams that cover and correct, brightening and blurring creams or oil controlling ones are all commonly used by Ethnic consumers.

he biggest challenge in Ethnic beauty care

More mainstream brands are also entering this

is research and development. Catering to

market with naturally positioned products.

multicultural consumers requires product development for a much broader range of

The lack of diversity in makeup shades has been the cosmetics industry’s biggest flaw. But now

hair and skin types. Ethnic skin is better adapted to

beauty giants are taking a step in the right direction

the sun, but when exposed to a cold, dry climate

by launching products in a much broader colour

it loses its protective hydrolipidic film and natural

range. These include trendy liquid metal shades

radiance. The skin type requires special care,

such as warm silver, copper and bronze, which

including moisturisation, sebum control, and

flatter especially darker skin types. Also popular

smoothing products.

are orange and spicy nuances such as cinnamon,

Ethnic hair, be it relaxed, braided or a natural afro, needs special care too. This hair type can

nutmeg and curry.

The movement in favour of natural hair is

become fragile and break easily. The trend towards

supported by new research, which shows relaxers

more natural African hair styles has sparked

are on a decline, while the use of shampoos,

a new direction in product development, with

conditioners and styling agents is increasing. Low-

claims ranging from anti-frizz and anti-shrinkage to

poo cleansers, which do not contain surfactants

edge control.

(or ‘poo’), offer mild cleansing with conditioning

Formulation design for darker skins can also

and care benefits. Styling aids have received a

be challenging. Some foundations can result in a

significant boost in the past few years, particularly

greyish skin finish while an uneven skin tone can

those with essential properties such as anti-frizz, curl

make it difficult to find one foundation that matches

definition and anti-shrinkage. Edge control products

multicultural consumers’ needs.

are also very popular for taming new hair (the ‘fly-

A market with unique demands

aways’ at the hairline) and keeping braids, twists and cornrows in shape.

The rise in demand for customised products for Ethnic consumers is seeing an expansion of product

Multifunctional wax ingredient Myrica Fruit Wax fits perfectly into the Ethnic beauty concept as it boosts the performance of low-poo

Type 5 Ethnic hair towel-dried and left to air-dry

products and gives edge control formulations the ideal hardness. When used in oil control formulations, it supports a dry and velvet feel and a silky matte effect.

It is a unique wax because it has no double bonds; it is a naturally ‘hydrogenated’ oil with a low melting point of 45 to 55°C yet has extraordinary hardness. This combination of properties gives Myrica Fruit Wax exceptionally good spreadability in cosmetics formulations. It reduces the stickiness Edge cream

24

Low-poo

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Untreated

of emulsions and cream gels, gives hair styling products excellent holding properties, and when

Ethnic Care Graph 1: Reduction of hair shrinkage

used in hair conditioners it improves ease of combing.

Ethnic hair can be difficult to style or shape.

Another common issue is hair shrinkage, which refers to the hair getting shorter after drying.

The anti-shrinkage performance of Myrica Fruit Wax has been tested on Type 5 hair tresses. Hair classified from Type 1 to 4 is straighter with the increase in number from Type 5 to 8 assigned to more tightly coiled hair. Type 5 represents chemically treated, mainly African hair. Yet it is very difficult to source virgin Type 5 for testing purposes.

To test the efficacy of Myrica Fruit Wax on Ethnic hair, KahlWax, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, formulated a lowpoo conditioner with five percent of the active ingredient and an edge control cream with seven percent.

Test protocol saw the company rinse

DID YOU KNOW?

the strands were measured with a

South Africa represents the biggest beauty market within the sub-Saharan African region.

It is valued at US$3.72 billion and grew by 5.3 percent in 2016. Source: Roland Berger Strategy

untreated hair tresses with a 15 percent SLES solution. After washing, hair strands with

ruler to determine their length in centimetres. The diameter was also determined using a string, and the hair was left to air-dry. After 24 hours, the measurements were repeated.

The results depicted in Graph 1 show the hair treated with edge cream had

the lowest shrinkage. ·

a thickness of 3cm x 4cm were divided. Untreated hair strands were also used as a control. The aforementioned hair care products were applied on the different wet strands. Shortly after application

KahlWax – www.kahlwax.de Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za

®

THINK SKIN CARE? THINK KAHLWAX. KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for skin care products such as creams, emulsions or sunscreens.

Re-envision your skin care formulations – with solutions and services that meet your requirements exactly and with ingredients that naturally fulfill consumer wishes, such as super-soft skin and a unique skin feel.

KahlWax. The ingredients for care. www.kahlwax.com

sfc-info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za

2017-03 Ad_P&C Mai_KahlWax.indd 1

16.03.17 09:40

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

25

Ethnic Care

A beautiful opportunity for localisation times to supply local customers with imported

product also resulted in ongoing shortages in the

By localising the production of hair care products that were initially imported from the US, J Strickland Africa is set to have a positive impact on economic development and job creation in South Africa. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review shares the story behind the launch of this modern manufacturing facility.

L

marketplace. ‘At times, the parent company took three to four weeks to produce stock for South Africa. The shipping lead times were long too, ranging from eight and 12 weeks,’ Norman explains.

These challenges presented Norman and her team with an ideal opportunity to establish a local manufacturing operation, with the vision of producing the parent company’s Ethnic hair care products under license.

To turn her dream into a reality, Norman first approached the Trade and Investment Kwazulu-

ocated in Westmead, Pinetown, in KwaZulu-Natal, J Strickland

Natal (TIKZN), which then referred her to the Industrial

Africa is the brainchild of CEO, Wendy Norman. Before the

Development Corporation (IDC). She presented a solid

manufacturing facility was established, Norman imported

business case, showing the strong potential of the

J Strickland & Co’s Ethnic hair care products, and for the

company to become a market leader throughout the

past 20 years, she created a business selling them countywide and

African continent with its high-quality products for Ethnic

into Africa.

hair and beauty care. The funding to set up the facility

Over time, fluctuations in the rand/dollar exchange rate negatively impacted the business in terms of cash flow and margins. Long lead

was approved by the IDC at the beginning of 2015 and manufacturing commenced on 1 September 2016.

THE LIFE OF J STRICKLAND AFRICA 1994

Unrefined Shea Butter First pressed Castor oil Organic Coconut and Grapeseed oil Organic Argan oil Avocado oil and Butter African Black soap Natural Ecocert Surfactants Bentonite

Wendy Norman is appointed as an agent for J Strickland & Co USA to sell its various brand of Ethnic hair care products in South Africa.

2014 Norman approaches TIKZN for funding to set up a manufacturing plant. TIKZN refers her to the IDC, and funding is approved at the beginning of 2015.

September 2015 Manufacturing equipment is installed and commissioned at J Strickland Africa.

1 September 2016 J Strickland Africa officially starts to produce the Sulfur 8 hair and scalp conditioner, and braid spray, as well as the Blue Magic range of products.

26

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

2012 Anderson Engineering is approached to provide a budget quotation on a locally manufactured hair care processing plant.

July 2015 The construction and installation project receives authorisation.

Mid-2016 Production processes are established using the latest technology in the manufacture of cosmetics and hair care products.

Ethnic Care The raw material tank farm at Strickland House

DID YOU KNOW?

BACKROW: Sadha Naidoo, JSA operations manager; Warren Perry, JSA finance and marketing manager; and Donny Pethan general manager: TIKZN business retention and expansion FRONTROW: Bob Charlton, JSA administrative manager; Analeah Royeppen, TIKZN investment promotion administrator; Wendy Norman, JSA CEO; Sihle Ngcamu, TIKZN executive manager: investment promotion; Lingiwe Nyamande, TIKZN CFO; and Angel Sibisi, TIKZN communications officer

28

Quality brands that meet local needs The Sulfur 8 and Blue Magic Ethnic hair care ranges – the first to be produced locally – have been made to such a high

Wendy Norman first began her career in the cosmetics industry in 1976, working as an in-store consultant brands in the market, which at Innoxa in Zimbabwe. She has over sets J Strickland Africa apart 23 years of sales and marketing from its competitors. This experience in cosmetics and beauty is supported by our worldcare, and runs her company with extreme passion and a high class manufacturing facility, level of commitment. which uses the latest industry

standard that J Strickland Africa has received approval to expand on the products it produces under license.

‘J Strickland hair care products are highly

technology to produce products of the highest quality.’

The Sulfur 8 hair and scalp conditioner, and the braid spray moisturise and soften hair and

recognised in South and southern Africa,’

scalp, offering relief from a dry itchy scalp

Naidoo explains. ‘It is the strength of these

associated with dandruff. These products also

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Ethnic Care

Our world-class manufacturing facility uses the latest industry technology beautify the hair. The Blue Magic range of products promises to condition and control hair in all kinds of weather. This range also prevents dry, dull hair and flaky itchy scalp, while helping to reduce breakage.

Sadha Naidoo, operations manager at J Strickland Africa adds: ‘Manufacturing the products locally allows for better stock control and the ability to produce to order, which

compounding facility to the filling line, making it a

improves cash flow. This also increases stock

proudly South African world-class facility.

availability in the market as opposed to importing

Petroleum jelly processing plant

Anderson Engineering was one of the industry

to sell. Now we also have the fl exibility to change

experts identifi ed by the IDC to help set up the

seamlessly from one product line to another as the

manufacturing plant. The company was also linked

demand changes.’

with Filtech Automation, which trained staff on how to use the filling machines at a practical level. They

Benefi ts beyond good hair Strickland House – the name of the local factory – is

also received extensive training from Science Tech.

J Strickland Africa provides employment for 26

a 2 400m2 plant equipped with 100 percent locally

people from Westmead and surrounding areas

made equipment. Nothing was imported, from the

such as Pinetown, Kwa Santi, Mayville, Chatsworth

Agents for

R O BE R T ET South Africa

the perfect fragrance and flavour for every product

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

29

Ethnic Care

and Claremont. All staff are empowered to attain selfgrowth and develop their true potential. The positive spinoff

HOW THE TURNKEY FACILITY WAS ESTABLISHED

is a team of individuals that are passionate about the company and the role they play in providing black women with quality and affordable Ethnic hair care products.

The company also creates self-employment opportunities for independent agents. It does

ANDERSON ENGINEERING HAS a wealth of

equipment together with delivery, installation

this by empowering, educating and training

experience in the design and manufacture

and commissioning took another six months.

consumers on how to establish businesses,

The following equipment was produced by

such as hair salons, spaza shops and small

of processing equipment, especially in stainless steel. It was a perfect company

Anderson Engineering in South Africa as part

retail outlets using the products produced by

for J Strickland Africa to partner with in

of the J Strickland Africa project:

J Strickland Africa.

establishing the Durban-based hair care

• an Anderson 3 000ℓ Contramix

manufacturing plant.

• a premix vessel

A vision for great growth

• a water-based product manufacturing vessel

With a client base of over 1 500 customers in South

approached in 2012 to provide a budget

• three storage tanks, each measuring 6 000ℓ

and southern Africa, the company has its sight set

forecast and quotation for the project. This

• two bulk petroleum jelly storage tanks, each

on expanding over the next few years.

Anderson Engineering was first

was used as the basis for justifying a new

measuring 30 000ℓ

‘We are in the process of exploring new

business case in which Ethnic hair care

• a chilling plant

territories, which present new opportunities for

products would be manufactured locally

• a hot water generator.

the business,’ Naidoo explains. ‘We are aware

under license.

The J Strickland Africa plant boasts a compact

that the business landscape is forever changing

design and is easy to clean. It also has the

and for J Strickland Africa to be responsive, the

to the IDC to obtain business funding as well

capacity to produce large volumes, which is

company needs to be positioned accordingly.

as establishing the framework for the royalty

important for the company’s growth potential.

Our immediate goal is to improve market share by

What then followed was the application

agreement with the parent company in Memphis, USA.

‘Since our first run, we’ve been impressed with the manufacturing speed, which

making our products more accessible.’

The company’s plan is to establish a wider

is excellent for output. It also helps us

distribution network throughout the African

undertaken on the J Strickland & Co

use electricity and other resources more

continent. This will be achieved by controlling

processing plant in Memphis. Sufficient

efficiently,’ comments Naidoo. ‘Anderson

its product source via in-house manufacturing

processing knowledge was extracted to design

Engineering’s thorough understanding of

in KwaZulu-Natal and taking responsibility for

the plant required for J Strickland Africa,

the process at project outset meant we were

setting up distribution channels with a vertically

and Anderson Engineering went on to create

able to eliminate all the slack and excess

integrated marketing and sales operation.

and implement several improvements to the

processes. This not only saved money but also

processes used within the Memphis plant.

time and set up costs.’

During 2014, an in-house study was

These were specifically to ensure consistent

Anderson Engineering is ISO 9001 certified,

quality while automating procedures to

and continuously improves the design and

manufacture the hair care products.

overall efficiencies of its equipment. The

The project authorisation was received in July 2015, and the manufacture of the plant

positive spinoff is lower maintenance costs for its customers.

Ultimately, J Strickland Africa has plans to become a market leader throughout the African continent with its high-quality products for the African Ethnic hair and beauty care market. ·

J Strickland Africa – www.jstricklandafrica.com

Congratulations J Strickland Africa on your new manufacturing facility

Our company specializes in the supply of personalized top quality Perfume Oils & Fragrance Compounds, butter and sweet flavours for various industry sectors at competitive prices. We have an extensive library of over 3000 different fragrances which is updated regularly. We are therefore able to supply any fragrance required to any specifications.

Contact us for a personal consultation. (011) 466 3055 sales@cosmaperfumes.com

30

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Ethnic Care

Beauty of

versatility

Croda South Africa’s personal care technical team is now ideally equipped to support product claims for the African skin and hair care markets. The company recently installed state-of-the-art equipment to assess hair breakage and has a new salon for panel testing.

I

t’s been 18 months since Croda South

After a week of interviewing consumers

Africa officially opened its Centre of

both with natural and with relaxed hair,

Excellence. Since the original opening,

the company now has a solid base to

the company has continued to invest in

work from and panel tests are already

the centre.

‘Most consumers desire strong, healthy

ABOVE The new hair salon within Croda South Africa’s Centre of Excellence BELOW Croda South Africa’s new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester

underway. The testing is taking place within the newest area at the Centre of

hair that is full of shine. Regardless of this

Excllence – the hair salon. These studies

desire, consumers do not want to give up

will involve African consumers to ensure

damaging regimes such as relaxing and

relevant data is generated, which the

styling. Constant grooming and combing

company’s local customers can then

can also damage the hair cuticle. We were

access for new product development.

looking for a way to not only measure the tensile properties of hair, but also analyse

A closer look at the facility

hair as it degrades over its lifetime,’ says

The hair salon is located adjacent to the

cycles required for failure (also known

Croda South Africa’s technical manager,

efficacy laboratory, which is equipped

as ‘fatigue testing’) is evaluated at

Christien Gordon.

with temperature and humidity controlled

different humidities.

climatic chambers for hair testing. The

Understanding local consumers’ needs

salon facility will focus primarily on

Skin and sun care

supporting claims for Type VI to VIII Black

The local team also has expertise in

To further identify the key hair care

African hair. All studies will be conducted

formulation and claim substantiation

needs of African consumers, the

by trained hairdressers, led by Croda’s

for skin and sun care applications.

company’s marketing team recently

application scientists.

Testing protocols are conducted using

undertook extensive studies on consumer

A new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester has been

state-of-the-art equipment to generate

installed in the Centre of Excellence to

consumer-appealing claims such

measure the tensile (strength) properties

as moisturisation, oil control, barrier

studies was to confirm our observations

of hair fibres at different humidities. The

repair, barrier integrity/disruption,

of the African hair care market, to identify

Dia-Stron Cyclic Tester is designed to

skin flaking/dryness, shine reduction,

gaps and use the information gathered as

simulate the repeated tensile

a basis for testing the right products on the

stress hair fibres experience

right hair types,’ adds Croda South Africa’s

during brushing and

marketing manager, Chantel McCallum.

combing. A repeated force

focus groups.

‘The main reason for our focus group

is applied to single hair Croda South Africa’s personal care team

fibres and the number of

counter-irritancy, and even skin

DID YOU KNOW?

tone. All testing is carried out in a humidity and temperature controlled

Aeysha Jakoet and Dineo room to remove any Modisaesi from Croda South environmental influences Africa recently successfully on product efficacy. completed the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Croda also offers expertise Science. in formulating with its extensive portfolio of metal oxides. Sun care studies are conducted using the Labsphere UV-2000S and Suntest CPS+ for in vitro SPF measurements. ·

Croda South Africa – www.croda.com

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

31

Ethnic Care

Lighter, brighter, safer

Addressing the primary skin care need of African consumers, CJP Chemicals and its international principal, Seppic, consulted with Dermscan to test Sepiwhite MSH on Ethnic skin. The results are encouraging.

A

study by the University of Cape Town

means risk-free. The dangers associated with the use of some

suggests that one in three women in South

of these creams include leukaemia and cancer of the liver and

Africa bleaches her skin. In Nigeria, the

kidneys. Another severe skin condition linked to these products

consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind set appears fixated on fair

is ochronosis. A form of hyper-pigmentation, ochronosis causes

skin. This has resulted in the ongoing popularity of hydroquinone-based skin lightening creams. Currently the Nigerian FDA permits

the skin to turn a dark purple shade. This is according to senior researcher at the University of Cape Town, Dr Lester Davids.

Other side effects include increased exposure to UV radiation;

two percent hydroquinone in skin care

sensitivity to sunlight; increased risk of hyper-pigmentation;

formulations, yet manufacturers are known

contact dermatitis and skin irritation; as well as thick, leathery,

to include anything in excess of five percent.

and bumpy skin.

There are high-end lightening products

32

and treatments that are believed to be

The global desire for beautiful skin

safer than the creams sold on the informal

Having a luminous and bright skin is a universal need that

market, yet doctors say they are by no

concerns consumers of all ages and skin types. Caucasian

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Ethnic Care

Sepiwhite MSH has previously been

consumers want healthy glowing skin.

role in binding to MC1R receptors,

Asians look for a transparent tone

tested on Caucasian and Asian skins. In

while Ethnic consumers want to correct

an effort to meet the needs of the African

pigmentation disorders and dark spots.

market, through extensive testing, Seppic

involvement of α-MSH in the regulation

presents new data specific to Ethnic skin

of melanogenesis, Seppic’s R&D team

types IV and V.

developed Sepiwhite MSH – an antagonist of

Black African or dark skins, in reaction to biological and external stresses such as

inhibiting melanogenesis.

In view of these findings regarding the

α-MSH – which inhibits all of the key steps in

acne, eczema, sun exposure, mosquito bites

Driven by in depth research

the α-MSH-induced melanogenic cascade.

Through its major skin lightening

The steps leading to melanin synthesis,

is pronounced, particularly in reducing

research programme, Seppic has

inhibited by Sepiwhite MSH, include:

hyper-pigmentation without compromising

focused its attention on the effects of

• an affinity for the MC1R

the skin. In response to this need, the

a precursor molecule and major factor

cosmetics industry has worked tirelessly to

in the regulation of skin pigmentation

• an inhibition of adenylate cyclase

develop products combining efficacy and

melanotropin, called alpha-MSH. This

• the reduction of intracellular cAMP content

skin compatibility.

molecule links the MCR-1 receptor,

• an inhibition of protein kinase A

activates the melagonesis cascade

• an inhibition of melanogenesis.

a molecule derived from natural

and controls tyrosinase activity, melanin

With its lipoamino acid form, as a biovector

resources, which is effective on all skin

(eumalanin and phaeomelanin) synthesis

of phenylalanine, Sepiwhite MSH has

types and perfectly well tolerated.

and melanosome transfer.

remarkable skin bioaffinity. It is well-tolerated

and scars, generally produce melanin.

The challenge to unify and clarify skin

One example is Sepiwhite MSH,

This active ingredient is recognised

melanotropin receptor

at the suggested inclusion levels.

These MC1R receptors, activated by

among international brand owners

alpha-MSH and its analogues, are inhibited

and manufacturers for its lightening

by natural antagonists present in the skin,

format, which is easy to formulate with and

performance and is used in many

called agouti-related proteins (AGRPs).

has a fully defined structure. End products

formulations for brightening and

These proteins have a phenylalanine in

containing Sepiwhite MSH are stable, and

lightening products.

Lightening

a key position, which plays an essential Action on Melanocytes

Graph 1: The efficacy of various market leading lightening ingredients in decreasing melanogenesis

Basal

α-MSH induced

The active is sold in a white powder

either white or colourless.

Table 1: In vivo test results for Sepiwhite MSH on black African and Indian skin types IV and V

Lighter age spots (ì ITA°)

ì Skin luminosity (L*)

UVB induced

% increase of ITA°/DO

300 SEPIWHITE MSH

% increase of L*/DO

3 ARBUTIN

2

200 + 2 %**

J

1 KOJIC ACID

MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

HYDROQUINONE

0 **p<0.001

+ 263 %*

+ 3 %** + 195 %*

+ 2 %**

J

100%

100%

D7

D14

+ 150 %*

J

100%

100

0 D21

J

100%

D7

J

100%

D14

J

100%

D21

Legend: L*: skin luminosity ITA°: individual typology angle / ì lightening effect a* : erythema parameter J: volunteers with positive effects

SUPPLIER OF SPECIALISED INGREDIENTS FOR ETHNIC CARE PRODUCTS.

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

33

Ethnic Care Hervé Geoffroy and Vijay Badur

More effective than market references The lightening activity of Sepiwhite MSH has been proven in the following

LOCALLY RELEVANT

GLOBAL INNOVATION

methodologies: reconstructed pigmented epidermis phototype V (ex vivo) and

IN FEBRUARY, CJP Chemicals welcomed Hervé

melanocytes cells cultures (in vitro).

Geoffroy, Seppic’s beauty care business unit sales

MSH was first developed 10 years

In comparison to the most common

SepiWhite

director EMEA zone, and Vijay Badur, Seppic’s

ago to address the needs of Asian skin Types 3 and

lightening active ingredients used on

beauty care business unit zone manager MEA,

4. To increase its application, the company recently

the market, such as arbutine, kojic acid,

to South Africa. Pharmaceutical

tested the active on Types 4 to 6 in Mauritius.

VCPMG and hydroquinone, the efficacy

Review spoke to Geoffroy and Badur about the

of Sepiwhite MSH has been proven on B16

company’s move to gain locally relevant data for

this active ingredient acts fast, meeting African

melanocytes cultured under three types

SepiWhite MSH.

consumers’ immediate needs for even tone skin.

of conditions. These include: 1. spontaneous lightening action on melanocytes 2. lightening action on melanocytes cultivated with α-MSH 3. lightening action on melanocytes

Cosmetic

‘Africa is a growing market for Seppic,’ says

With proven efficacy on Ethnic skin, Badur says

By delivering verified claims and providing value

Geoffroy. ‘Through our understanding of local

through the application laboratory located at CJP

needs and from watching global trends, we realise

Chemicals head office in Johannesburg, Seppic

customers’ challenges in South Africa and want

is positioning itself as a key partner in developing

to address them with formulations that meet

cosmetics for African markets. The company is an

consumers’ needs.’

international specialist in skin and beauty care.

following UVB irradiation.

In these three types of tests, the lightening The evaluation criteria was based on

activity was determined by measuring

Sepiwhite MSH were evaluated over

melanin content. The results are shown

84 days. Results showed lighter areas

the following Chromameter parameters:

in Graph 1, underlining that Sepiwhite

of hyper pigmentation (>80 percent)

L; a; b; ITA at DO; D7; D14; and D21. The

MSH is more efficient than other market

after 56 and 84 days. Significantly

results are revealed in Table 1.

leading lightening ingredients, without

lightened skin was experienced among

any toxic effect.

66 percent of the volunteers, while a

is a super-effective molecule. Through

According to Seppic, Sepiwhite MSH

reduction of melanin pigments located

a novel and demonstrated mode of

Quadruple in vivo tests

in corneocytes (D-Squame) was

action, the active ingredient lights up the

To demonstrate the universal benefits of

also noted.

complexion while limiting pigmentation-

Sepiwhite MSH, the active ingredient has

The most recent in vivo test for

related concerns. After treatment, the

been tested on three different skin types

Sepiwhite MSH has been conducted on

complexion appears more uniform and

with various positive results.

black African and Indian skin types IV

age spots disappear. Long-term results

and V. The panel consisted of 22 female

(56 days) and a faster lightening process

with UV tanned skin, using a cream

volunteers (11 Indians and 11 Africans)

have also been underlined when the

with two percent Sepiwhite MSH and

with an average age of 34 years old.

active is used in combination with

evaluated over 49 days, results showed an

The formulation tested was also based

an AHA. •

increase in the individual typology angle/

on two percent Sepiwhite MSH in

lightening effect among 57 percent of

combination with three percent lactic

the volunteers.

acid and two percent salicylic acid (pH

On a panel of 14 Caucasian volunteers

On 30 Asian volunteers with age spots, the effects of a cream with two percent

34

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

4). The product was applied twice daily on the forearm over a period of 21 days.

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com

Ethnic Care

Curly by nature Ingredients that help strengthen hair and prevent breakage are a must for Ethnic hair products.

Botanichem distributes several innovative solutions to meet the needs of Type 4 hair.

E

are embracing their natural

Feeding hair with Omegas

hair, hair straightening remains

Cobiosa, represented

ven though Ethnic consumers

a massive part of the market for

locally by Botanichem,

both Ethnic and Caucasian hair types.

produces Trichomega

This trend presents an interesting set of

botanical omega acids,

opportunities and challenges for suppliers

which are ideal for split ends

DID YOU KNOW?

The value of the wet hair products sold in South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon currently exceeds R12 billion with South Africa’s market for wet and dry hair care believed to be worth an estimated R4.5 billion. Source:

increase manageability of unruly hair.

‘Chemical straightening is still big business but the

Euromonitor International

long-term damage is severe.

Incorporating a naturally derived

of ingredients, brands and manufacturers

and broken hairs. The active

as the products required for natural Ethnic

ingredient is extracted from the Sacha

ingredient such as Phytenso into an Ethnic

hair care differ from those used on hair

Inchi nut, which grows on trees in the

hair care product is ideal as it improves

extensions, weaves and straightened hair.

Amazon. It helps restore hair’s lipid layer,

day-to-day manageability while reducing

which is the only continuous structure

the need for chemical processes,’

and general brittleness are major

that can be found on hair, increasing its

she explains.

problems for Ethnic hair,’ explains Robyn

resistance to breakage and split ends. It

‘It is common knowledge that breakage

Dandruff and itchy scalp are also key

Brown, managing member of Botanichem.

also enhances hair’s flexibility, preventing it

hair care concerns of Ethnic consumers.

‘This is because the hair shaft is highly

from snapping.

Often, they are the result of braids, extensions and wigs and can be difficult

elliptical with a twisted configuration and

Trichomega is made up of 48 percent

a thin diameter. There are also intermittent

Omega 3, 37 percent Omega 6 and eight

to address because conventional anti-

variations in diameter as the twisting

percent Omega 9. By feeding the follicles,

dandruff applications can be too harsh for

occurs, which causes recurrent weakening

the Omega 3 promotes faster growth and

sensitive scalps. Cobiosa’s hair dandruff

along each hair and makes it prone

healthier hair.

reducer is an ideal alternative; this glycolic solution has anti-microbial and anti-irritant

to breakage.’

Fighting frizz naturally

properties to help reduce and control

strands wrap around each other resulting

In collaboration with Unicare, Botanichem

dandruff and scalp irritations. ·

in tangles. De-tangling this also causes

also supplies Phytenso, which is produced

further damage as pulling and tugging

by IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. This natural

can lead to hair follicle stress and traction

hair straightener protects and conditions

hair loss.

hair while fighting frizz. It also helps to

Due to the curly nature of Ethnic hair, the

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Unicare – www.unichem.co.za

100 % pure organic

Moringa Oil

M

oringa is known as the ‘Miracle Tree’ due to its impressive range of uses. Moringa oil contains important minerals and is an excellent source of protein, vitamins, amino acids and fatty acids (Omega 6 & 9).

Botanica’s Moringa trees grow in Limpopo and the oil is produced on site. Moringa oil has well-known cosmetic value and is widely used in hair care formulations.

Contact us T: +27 71 925 5870 E: info@timola.co.za W: www.timola.co.za

Moisturises the scalp

Strengthens hair

Promotes hair growth

Possible applications: Shampoo, hair conditioning, scalp moisturising & beard oil.

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

35

Aerosols

Puregas announces expansion plans The company is expanding its storage capacity and upgrading its processes and plant safety measures.

These developments will ensure continuity of supply and enhanced product quality to meet customers’ needs. By Abby Vorster

T

he South African aerosols

storage tank, which is scheduled to

industry has grown

be commissioned during the fourth

consistently over the past

quarter of 2017.’

few years, which has

The tank is being produced locally

resulted in an increase in demand

by Sikelela Steel – an engineering

for propellant from Puregas. While

company that specialises in

the company’s volumes continue

manufacturing quality pressure

to grow, unfortunately the local

vessels for gas storage.

supply of gas has declined or result, Puregas has been importing

At the forefront of quality and safety

product by bulk ship to ensure

Along with customer service,

supply interruptions do not affect its

safety-centric measures are

business or that of its customers. This

central to Puregas’ success. The

has led to the need for a new on-site

company’s technical manager,

at best remained constant. As a

storage tank, which will act as a stock buffer when supply interruptions occur.

‘Customer service is core to our philosophy,’ says Philip Cloete, MD of Puregas. ‘Ensuring continuity of supply is central to this,

The new tank has the capacity to store 500 000ℓ of propellant

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

says that the project has received the necessary approvals and all safety and environmental aspects of the installation will be overseen by Puregas’ SHEQ manager, Thomas Xaba.

which is why we are embarking on

‘The new tank has the capacity

a project to install a new 500m3 gas

to store 500 000ℓ of propellant, and

Part of the propellant storage facility at Puregas

36

Grant Gascoigne

Aerosols

New GM for Puregas At the end of January, Puregas welcomed its new GM of sales and operations. Jaco Wiese has a chemical engineering background and vast experience in the gas sector. His appointment forms part of the company’s succession plan with Duncan Puregas also imports propellant by bulk ship

Bell having recently retired.

In his new role, Wiese will continue to build the company’s core focus of customer service and the solid relationships that already exist with its

will be the largest tank situated on the

on-site gas detection and expand

propellant customers. ‘Everyone talks of customer

Puregas site,’ Gascoigne explains. ‘In

on its process flexibility to shorten the

centricity, but at Puregas, the team lives by this,’ he

terms of the physical installation, the

processing time to attain the refined

explains. ‘It’s refreshing to see this ethos engrained in

tank will be mounded above ground,

finished product. This is particularly

everything we do.’

resulting in reduced fire water usage

important in the treatment of

and minimal environmental impact.

imported propellant.

Wiese is a practical person who enjoys tech gadgets and

These developments are set to

tinkering in his spare time. His

positions for the offloading of road

position Puregas as a supplier of

hands-on approach and love for

and rail tankers, and the loading of

choice to the personal care, home

technology will stand in good

road tankers. We believe this is a first

care and wider aerosol industry. ·

stead to drive efficiencies

Loading arms will also be fitted at three

within Puregas while

for independent gas companies in South Africa.’

The expansion project will also see Puregas increase its amount of

Puregas – www.puregas.co.za Sikelela Steel – www.sikelelasteel.co.za

enhancing its already strong focus on customer service.

P C Review | MAY 2017 |

37

Aerosols

Quality propellant for cosmetics Afrox has invested over R10 million in upgrades to its special gases propellant plant located in Roodekop, Germiston. The improvements effectively position the company as a well-established supplier to South Africa’s FMCG personal care market.

Ensuring continuous supply Part of the upgrades also included the commissioning of strategic storage tanks in the Gauteng region. This will allow Afrox to have continuous supply in the event of an unplanned shutdown by suppliers. ‘We want our customers to have peace of mind, and focus on their core business whilst we, as the supplier of choice, ensure consistent supply,’ adds Baird. ‘As part

Afrox Propellant road tanker filling bay

of the global Linde Group, we can leverage off the Linde supply chain, importing product at lower rates and have assured fl exibility. In 2016, we successfully imported over 750t of product, thus we had full supply to all our contracted customers with no product rationing or short supply.’

Quality, safety and value add The installation of state-of-the-art laboratory equipment was also included in the upgrades

DID YOU KNOW?

to the propellant plant. This enables Afrox to provide accurate and live certificates of analysis with each

load that leaves the company’s Afrox is celebrating its 90 site. The system offers a wide anniversary this year. Schalk Venter, Afrox’s MD, says the company’s range of components analysed longevity is a credit to the generations in a short space of time, from of Afrox people who built it to survive percentage concentrations to and prosper in a competitive part per billion concentrations. world. Afrox was founded in The propellants for cosmetics 1927, and listed on the and personal care applications JSE in 1963.

Dedicated road tankers for propellant deliveries

th

present a unique challenge as some of the components that can be harmful elute close to the background. Good separation is of the utmost importance to quantify these components, ensuring the end customer can use Afrox’s cosmetics grade propellants with total confidence.

‘Afrox operates strict policies regarding product stewardship and the responsible and ethical management of health, safety and the environmental aspects of a product,’ she

Afrox has a lot more to offer than just quality gas

P

comments. ‘We can assist our customers to ersonal care propellant is bound by stringent quality standards. It is also crucial that propellant gas is free from odours and impurities. As part of the

upgrades at the production facility, Afrox has ensured the company meets these standards.

Nadine Baird, product manager: chemicals at Afrox, explains: ‘One of our guiding principles is the supply of quality product. We source and supply product to the highest standards and our filtration system allows us to remove sulphurs, dienes and moisture.’

38

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

identify product risks and hazards and help identify mitigation measures for these risks. We can also perform on site safety audits if the customer requires this assistance.’

The future of propellants is very exciting. Baird says Afrox has a lot more to offer than just quality gas. ‘We have technical expertise, product supply security, a world-class telemetry system that allows remote monitoring of tanks and the flexibility to meet our customer’s needs.’ ·

Afrox – www.afrox.co.za

Launched a new product in 2016/17?

ENTRIES NOW OPEN

Contact Natalie Da Silva: natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281

Pharmaceutical Focus//Technology

The right shot

in direct compression

I

n billiards, a discreet balance of resilient

lactose and MCC. It shows a remarkable

helps to stabilise content uniformity trough

and inelastic collision is needed

compaction profile, even in high

adhesion of active ingredients and is most

to pocket the opponent’s balls. A

dosage formulations.

appreciated in highly effective, low dosage formulations, such as oral contraceptives.

similar principle is important in the

solid bodies such as tablets. This plastically

Benefits and areas of application

rheological properties of powder blends

deforms particles in combination with

Meggle produces this filler-binder, which

while serving as a means for trouble-

fractionating while brittle materials tend to

is available in South Africa from Amchem.

shooting in poorly flowing preparations,

develop outperforming synergies.

As a highly renowned enterprise, Meggle

including micronised active ingredients.

transformation of powders into coherent

MicroceLac 100 is one such synergistic,

enjoys an excellent reputation and

MicroceLac 100 can improve the

MicroceLac 100 is best suited for use

well-balanced material. It is also known

its excipients are used in more than

in oblong and small tablets. A letter of

as a co-processed excipient consisting of

100 countries.

authorisation for Drug Master File type IV

75 percent alpha-lactose-monohydrate

Typical features of MicroceLac 100

and 25 percent microcrystalline cellulose

include its excellent weight consistency

(MCC). MicroceLac 100 is manufactured

at various compaction speeds and a low

by spray-drying and clearly outperforms

aggregation tendency. It can be used for

the physical admixture regarding

all direct compression formulations from low

constant hardness through a fixed ratio of

to high dosage at optimum output. It also

and a Meggle monograph are available on request. ·

Amchem – www.amchem.co.za Meggle – www.meggle-pharma.com

Thureya Sarlie, Commercial Contact Mobile +27 (0)83 457 6575 Tel +27 (0)11 922 1639 Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za www.chemsystems.co.za

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40

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

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Pharmaceutical Focus//Technology

Accelerating

medicine development

L

certainty

Compact yet powerful

programme

The component is characterised by a

designed to

smaller footprint because it does not require

help industrial

physical hardware controllers or input/

companies

output (I/O) cards. Automation strategies

achieve top

and I/O processing are all executed in a

performance.

compact workstation. DeltaV Discovery

It is licensed as

interfaces to lab-scale equipment via

a workstation-

multiple Ethernet protocols including OPC,

based solution for ife sciences enterprises must rapidly bring safe, cost-effective drugs

laboratory applications.

Modbus/TCP, and Ethernet/IP. Even with the smaller size, it delivers

‘Companies must find ways to scale up

powerful capabilities, including batch

and therapies to patients. Emerson

to commercial operations more efficiently

management and integrated historians,

delivers automation strategies that

and reduce the time-consuming process

not commonly found in a laboratory

of technology transfer. This is because it

automation platform.

support this need for rapid innovation.

Its DeltaV Discovery solution speeds up

costs around US$2.6 billion to develop a

DeltaV Discovery facilitates data integrity,

the time to market for pharmaceutical

commercially viable drug over of 10 years

21 CFR part 11, and ISA-88 standards for

and biotech operations by simplifying the

or more,’ says John Nita, vice president

batch execution and history collection. It

technology transfer from research and

of life sciences at Emerson Automation

also delivers alarms, events, and advanced

discovery to production. It enables more

Solutions. ‘The component is vital in helping

batch data integration to the user in a

efficient development activity and accurate

our life sciences customers ensure work

single workstation, ensuring the automation

technology transfer from the laboratory

done in the research stage translates into a

and compliance capabilities required in

through to production-scale operations.

successfully operating production facility.’

commercial manufacturing are replicated

DeltaV Discovery is convenient for

Lab scale automation

research laboratories where a smaller

DeltaV Discovery is a technology

footprint and easy automation integration

component of Emerson’s operational

are important.

in the lab. ·

Emerson – www.emerson.com

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42

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

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Pharmaceutical Focus//Technology

Taking mid-market companies to the cloud

The move to the cloud is inevitable for all industries. At Avaya, the company’s goal is to ensure that mid-market companies don’t get left behind. Danny Drew, Avaya’s MD for South Africa explains its relevance. or out decision; it can be a continuum.

In the communications and collaboration space, we are seeing strong interest in hybrid deployments with companies looking to maintain their legacy investment while considering moving new applications such as voice, video, and the contact centre into the cloud.

For our channel partners,

DID YOU KNOW?

L

et’s be honest, being in the middle

yet mid-market

isn’t always seen as a good thing.

companies may

The ‘middle of the road’ isn’t an

not have as much

especially flattering description, while

flexibility and agility

being ‘piggy in the middle’ isn’t a desirable

to adapt. Still, as cloud

adoption continues to grow

market, we can find middle ground.

in South Africa, small and mid-sized

According to the Banking Association

clear opportunity if

they can deliver A vast amount of data is involved in the R&D process in pharmaceutical the same rich manufacturing. To better manage this data, a communications blog post by Manufacturing Matters says that experience in a cloud solution can standardise the flow of whatever way information and allows for the seamless sharing their end-user lab, imagery and statistical analysis information with any number of partners, anywhere in the customers want to world. With cloud technology, you have a deploy them – be truly flexible collaboration platform that on-premises, that speeds up the entire product hybrid cloud or development process.

position. But when it comes to the mid-

South Africa, small and medium-sized

this means there is a

fully hosted.

With Avaya IP Office, we offer a solution that can fit the needs of 98

companies will have to consider it at

percent of all businesses out there, and

some point.

we can offer it in on-premises, in hybrid cloud, or pure cloud models. This means

enterprises account for about a third of the

To give an example, pharmaceutical

country’s GDP and provide employment to

manufacturers globally are increasingly

businesses can move to the cloud at

approximately 60 percent of the labour force.

looking at cloud-based solutions, with mid-

their own pace and path, adding new

That sort of performance should make

sized pharma companies finding that the

features and capabilities as they become

the mid-market attractive to IT vendors, with

cloud delivers the on-demand scalability

needed, or while leveraging their

plenty of offerings packaged to the sector’s

and agility they need to compete with

existing investments. ·

needs. Unfortunately, all too often, we find

bigger, better-funded organisations. For

that mid-market customers are overlooked.

instance, in research and development,

Vendors either focus on their larger enterprise

cloud technology can help pharma

customers, or provide consumer-level

companies process the vast

solutions that don’t deliver the scalability

amounts of data needed to

mid-market companies need.

develop new drugs, thereby maximising their resources.

A good fit for pharma challenges digital disruption presents to

Hybrid solutions prove popular

larger enterprises, while often having made

The good news is that moving

considerable infrastructure investments

to the cloud doesn’t have

they don’t want to abandon overnight.

to be an overwhelming

Smaller companies can take the plunge

experience. Cloud migration

and leverage new trends such as the cloud,

is not a black and white, in

Mid-market companies are facing the same

44

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

ABOUT Danny Drew is an experienced technology solutions professional with expertise in all aspects of communications. His areas of speciality include technology architecture, business analytics, contact centre consultancy and optimisation.

Avaya South Africa – www.avaya.com

SOUTH AFRICAN

PackagingREVIEW May 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 5

www.pharmacos.co.za

Optimum solutions for carton and board

Perfect packaging to ďŹ t your brand Blister pack wins technical innovation trophy

News

Committed to sharing information THERE HAVE BEEN some interesting

needs. That’s not all – we have the scoop on

developments on the packaging front which I am

Moco Cosmetic Packaging’s name change! Turn

excited to share with you.

to page 47 now for the full story.

In this edition of PACKAGING REVIEW, we’ve got advice from the experts on new carton and

Enjoy the read.

board equipment launches for your pending facility upgrades. We also look at integrated solutions to better assist brands in making the

Assistant Editor

right packaging choice to suit their products’

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

BLISTER PACK AWARDED FOR INNOVATION

GO WITH COLOUR

THE EUROPEAN ALUMINIUM

packaging medium, prior to

competition, praised the

Foil Association (EAFA) has

being mixed and dispensed.

innovative solution.

awarded Amcor Flexibles

The solution was a joint

‘Sensitive dry medicines

and Rohrer’s Frangible

development by Amcor

can be damaged by exposure

SOUTH AFRICA-BASED self-lubricated

Formpack Blister packaging

Flexibles and Rohrer.

to light, heat and, especially

polymer bearings and bushings

moisture. This pack goes a long

manufacturer, Vesconite Bearings, says

an Alufoil Trophy for technical

One of the pack’s

TO REDUCE LOSS

innovation. The Frangible

chambers can be filled with

way to solving all these issues,

lost parcels are becoming a thing of the

Formpack is a multi-chamber

dry powder that incorporates

while offering a secure means

past. This is thanks to its shocking pink

pharmaceutical blister that

an active ingredient. The

of delivery in a liquid solution

packaging colour launched specifically

enables moisture-sensitive

other is then filled with liquid.

with sterile water, in almost any

for outbound shipments of various

active ingredients such as

The peelable frangible seal

environment,’ he says.

finished goods.

drugs, vaccines or diagnostic

allows both components to be

reactants to be contained

mixed by pushing on cavity of

also simplifies the supply

the pack.

chain by eliminating the

safely in one

Guido Schmitz, the director

need for cool storage and glass containers. It can also

of packaging design in consumer health at

The Frangible Formpack Blister pack

The multi-chamber blister

be used for point-of-care

Bayer Healthcare

diagnostic testing in situations

and lead judge for

where a complex laboratory

the Alufoil Trophy 2017

environment cannot be set up.

German company expands with SA agency ROTOCON HAS BEEN appointed the agent

Jaarsveld, Spec Systems’ Johannesburg

for Erhardt+Leimer (E+L). The partnership

operations manager. According to

with the German-based inspection

Rotocon, there are four more orders

technology specialist began with two E+L

scheduled for delivery. ‘The agreement

Smartscan systems recently installed at

with E+L reflects our commitment to expand

Spec Systems. The systems were installed

services to customers in South Africa by

on the company’s new RCSI 330 Rotocon

adding new technology that meets real

slitter rewinder machines.

needs in our extensive portfolio,’ says

‘It is so simple to operate. The machine was installed on a Wednesday and fully

Michael Aengenvoort, owner of Rotocon.

He says Smartscan systems complement

operational by Thursday, running at a

the company’s new RSCI brand of slitter

speed of about 200m a minute. In addition,

rewinders. ‘Together, they satisfy the

the E+L Smartscan inspection feature

ever-greater demand for cost-effective

requires minimal machine operator training

efficiency, accuracy and quality.’ The

because of its ease of use and one-touch

cooperation between both companies

set-up compared to around five steps for

makes it possible to offer more solutions for

competitive machines,’ says Jacques van

the label industry.

46

| MAY 2017 | Packaging Review

The company’s chairperson, Dr Jean-Patrick Leger found that parcels in nondescript brown packaging were frequently going missing after hand-over from the courier company to the airlines.

‘It was unbelievable. Sometimes shipments weighing tons would just disappear, only to be found months later in an airport warehouse hundreds of thousands of miles away from the original routing,’ he says.

Since Vesconite Bearings introduced the bright pink packaging with diagonal wording, lost packaging of finished goods has become a rare occurrence.

Leger says he was advised to choose packaging that stood out so he considered his late mother’s favourite colour – pink.

The deep pink hues resonate with clientele and other brands have followed suit in the selection of pink hues for their packaging.

Boxes ready to be filled with goods

Closures, Pumps & Dispensers

Dispensing new developments Moco Cosmetic Packaging (Moco) has a new name – Moco Packaging. Company owner, Moshe Cohen talks to PACKAGING REVIEW about this change and the supply of closures, pumps and dispensers for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

S

ituated in Jeppestown in the

There are a variety of closures for

Johannesburg CBD, the company

cosmetics applications, including

Pumps for viscous products

has been in existence for more

sprayers, pumps, foamers, triggers

been profiting substantially

than 28 years. Cohen says it was time

and actuators – which all serve the

from the increasing use of

for the name change as its original

same purpose. An additional factor

packaging made of PET-

branding implied the company sold only

for consideration when selecting

based disposable bottles. As a

cosmetics packaging.

a closure is product viscosity. Low

result, the quality of closures is

viscosity products are thinner

constantly improving.

‘This is not the case,’ he comments, ‘so the solution was to remove the

liquids than the thicker, higher

word “cosmetic” as we also supply

viscosity products.

products for pharmaceutical packaging, among others.’

Ceresana reports that restrictive packaging standards in developed

‘Sometimes even massage oil

countries and increasing consumer

packaging requires the use of a

requirements will result in the rising

pump,’ he adds. ‘If the

consumption of advanced closures.

MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE

product is more viscous,

These include tamper evident caps,

A key element to cosmetics

an external dip tube with

side press and turn tops, and push

packaging is the dispenser.

a larger diameter allows

and lock caps and dispensers.

Whether it is a standard

the product to be pumped

cap or sophisticated pump

more easily. Fluids with

child resistant packaging help avoid

dispenser, it is essential that

aggressive ingredients

accidental medicine ingestion,

an appropriate amount

can also be sprayed into a

while playing an important role in

of product is dispensed

fine mist.’

product protection.

Cohen says tamper evident and

without hassle to the

Although medicine regulations

DYNAMIC MARKET GROWTH

end user.

The best selling items are the company’s standard

Moshe Cohen

pumps and sprayers. ‘Our

The popular sustainable material

standard range is most suitable

for closures is plastic.

for a client who is price conscious

Recycled polyethylene

but wants a product to do the job,’

terephthalate is a favourite

Cohen recommends.

for personal care product

DID YOU KNOW? The child resistant locking closure for containers was invented in 1967.

continue to become stricter, it can take up to seven years to introduce a new product. This is why closures remain the same for lengthy periods, as an adjustment is also a tedious, timeconsuming process. ·

packaging due to its similarities to Plastic and metal fine mist sprayers determine the amount of product dispensed

glass, and it’s 100 percent recyclable.

Cohen says consumers have

Moco Packaging – www.mocopack.co.za

become more environmentally conscious and the global personal care industry is taking note of the

Triggers can handle steam, spray or foamy liquids

lean towards ‘green’. This has been a driving factor in the reduction of packaging complexity.

According to Ceresana Market Intelligence Consulting’s (Ceresana), the market for plastic caps and closures has

Packaging Review | MAY 2017 |

47

Carton & Board

The route to

greener pastures Cartonboard health care packs by Metsä Board

as it contains a bottle

ZERO FAULT PRODUCTION

or other product

Fratelli Roda SA has become the first Swiss

dispenser. Despite

company to install a Bobst Accucheck

what it is referred to,

unit, which delivers complete in-line

the consumer’s first

quality checks of folding cartons. The unit

impression resides with a

reinforces its position as a supplier constantly

product’s packaging.

focused on quality. The system is further

‘The appearance of packaging in a pharmacy has grown in importance. It is no longer considered

By Aarifah Nosarka

A

s a top priority for most middle to high income consumers, health care developments are shaping

new ways of packaging medical products.

This is according to Christophe Baudry, commercial director of beauty care and health care at Metsä Board.

Packaging plays a vital role in drawing a distinction between prescription and overthe-counter (OTC) medicines. After all, it’s the first and often the only opportunity for a product to appeal to the consumer.

Baudry says cartonboard packaging is often referred to as the secondary package

48

| MAY 2017 | Packaging Review

pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

Franco Roda, general director at Fratelli Roda SA, says the company is known for investing in innovative technology. ‘It was

a functional entity, but rather an

natural for us to look at further improving the

asset to attract attention when selling OTC

quality of our products. Our customers are on

products,’ he stresses.

a continuous quest for perfection. We chose

Eye catching packaging increases

What should health care packaging convey in order to pique consumer interest and increase sales? PACKAGING REVIEW has the answer, along with new technology to ensure carton quality, and conveyor systems for carton and board packaging.

expected to attract new business from the

the Accucheck unit because it can check

product sales as it attracts consumer

100 percent of our folding carton production

interest. It is therefore imperative that

and meet their “zero-fault” requirements.’

pharmaceutical product packaging is

Placed in line with a Bobst Expertfold or

reliable, promotes the brand in question,

Masterfold folder-gluer, the unit checks

preserves product quality on the shelf and

each carton for print-to-cut registration

in handling, is easy to use and maintains

precision, printing defects, oil or water marks,

safe consumption. Baudry says Metsä

ink splashes, carton damage or scratches,

Board’s paperboards for health care

bad cut quality or colour variation. If a blank

packaging deliver specific benefits for

does not meet the quality specifications

various end uses.

input by the operator, it is ejected from the

Metsä Board’s offering includes fully

production stream.

coated bleached paperboards with excellent sensory and hygiene properties

VERSATILE INTEGRATED SOLUTION

required for sensitive products. They are

Bosch Packaging Technology (Bosch), in

suitable for offset, gravure, flexo and digital

partnership with the recently acquired Kliklok

printing, as well as litholamination. They

Corporation, introduces its Kilklok integrated

also provide good resistance to odour and

topload cartoner (ITC). This integrated

taint transfer.

carton forming, loading and closing solution complements the company’s

The Accucheck is the new in-line solution to inspect carton blanks for defects as they enter the Bobst folder-gluer

packaging portfolio. The ITC boasts one of the highest speeds available for a solution

Carton & Board

with such a small footprint. It also enables the production of a wide range of carton sizes and styles. This allows manufacturers to save production space and increase product output without compromising on quality.

The system’s principal function is to

Marchesini’s FRB 500 machine

form topload style cartons or trays and robotically load wrapped products into them, before closing, if required. solution with three functions – carton

for efficient and fast production while

OPTIMAL CARTON PACKAGING SOLUTIONS

forming, loading and closing – the machine

maintaining premium product quality.

Marchesini recently introduced the Integra

Comprising a single fully integrated

helps to reduce customer footprint with

ITC stems from customers’ increased need

Neil Fowell, the general manager at

520 V, which is available in South Africa

its ergonomic design. The ITC takes

Kliklok International says innovation is at the

from MGSA Consulting (MGSA). Myles

complete control of the carton – from

heart of everything the company does. ‘It is

Davis from MGSA describes the system as

forming to finished package, and avoids

imperative for Bosch to adapt to consumer

a perfect fit for the new BLA 525 labeller

the need to source three separate pieces

demand, as we focus on becoming the

from Marchesini’s Neri division and fast

of equipment. Developed with the new

single-source solutions provider within

bundler FA 04 from Multipack, both

HMI 4.0 touch screen, the next generation

the market.’

built to manage the flow of 500 cartons

of intelligent human machine interfaces,

The ITC offers customers the flexibility

per minute.

it offers users an enhanced experience,

to change formats and run a variety of

guiding the operator through each step of

carton styles. Cartons are fed using a

are its patented indexing device that

the production process. This allows for an

reciprocating carton feeder. They are

positions and sets incoming cartons apart

improved productivity rate. According to

formed using a motion profiled vertical

at specific distances on toothed belts.

Bosch, the demand for an easy-to-operate

plunger. Lock or glue cartons can be

It involves an adjustable width, which

formed on the ITC with the possibility of

prevents feasible slipping. This conveyor

forming four different carton styles within

system is associated with a logical ‘fail safe’

a single or twin infeed model. Once the

rejection method that ensures only correct

carton is formed, an intelligent transport

cartons reach the next machine.

Sustainable packs impact sales Folding cartons, an important packaging

system is used to carry it independently

Among the strongholds of the BLA 525

Davis says the fast version of the FA 04

through the machine’s robotic loading and

is an upgrade of Multipack’s classic FA

care industry, have been gaining

hot melt glue closing module. This system

04 version. The newly upgraded unit can

popularity among brand owners.

provides flexible and variable configurable

handle a production flow of 500 cartons

This momentum is mainly attributed to

control of the carton to suit both loading

per minute, which amounts to 100 more

the use of eco-friendly and recyclable

and closing requirements. It comprises

cartons than the former machine.

solution for the cosmetics and personal

materials during production.

minimal parts, which reduces maintenance

According to Transparency Market

while further increasing the overall

locally is Marchesini’s FRB 500 tray and

equipment effectiveness.

box former,’ he comments. ‘This automatic

Research, the sales of folding cartons were US$2.8 billion last year. The market is expected to expand at a CAGR of 7.10 percent over the next seven years, and is likely to reach US$4.9 billion by the end of 2024.

The carton closing operation uses easily

‘The most recently requested technology

intermittent-motion machine has been

replaceable high-friction belts to quietly

designed to form boxes and trays from

convey cartons out of the machine. This

flat cardboard. Suitable for the cosmetics

effectively reduces any carton marking and

and pharmaceutical markets, products

product damage.

can be sealed with tuck-in flap closures or hotmelt glue either from the top or Carton forming, product loading and carton closing in one integrated unit

the side. Designed in accordance with cGMP regulations, the machine features a balcony-style structure for easy access, cleaning and maintenance.’

The FRB 500 uses corrugated cardboard from one to three millimetres or simple paperboard from 0.5 to 0.7mm. ·

Bobst – www.bobst.com Bosch Packaging Technology – www.boschpackaging.com Metsä Board – www.metsaboard.com MGSA Consulting – www.mgsaconsulting.co.za

Packaging Review | MAY 2017 |

49

Tea time

Answers to the perfumes and colognes trivia in P C

Review April:

Sudoku

Shalimar, introduced in 1925

2.

Coco Chanel with N5

3.

Grasse, in Provence, France

4.

Catherine Deneuve

5.

Angel

6.

Van Cleef and Arpels introduced First in 1976

7.

Miss Dior in 1947

8.

Rose and jasmine

9.

Cologne, Germany

10. L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci

1

TO ADVERTISE IN

5

5

8 4 7

1.

9

Anita Raath

6 8

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

4 2

4

Carla Melless Sales executive

5 6

3

1

9

9

7 5

Amchem ................................................. 41 ........www.amchem.co.za Anderson Engineering.............................27 ........www.andersoneng.co.za Biotech Solutions ....................................42 ........www.biotechsolutions.co.za Botanical Natural Products .....................35 ........www.timola.co.za Chem Systems ........................................40 ........www.chemsystems.co.za Chempure .............................................. 13 ........www.dsm.com/personal-care Cirebelle .............................................. OFC ........www.cirebelle.com CJP Chemicals .......................................33 ........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Claman...................................................29 ........www.claman.co.za CLR Chemisches ..................................... 15 ........www.clr-berlin.com Cosma Perfumes & Flavours ...................30 ........www.cosmaperfumes.com Crest Chemicals .....................................20 ........www.crestchem.co.za Evonik Africa ........................................... 17 ........www.evonik.com Fourchem ............................................... 11 ........www.fourchem.co.za IMCD SA ...................................................5 ........www.imcdgroup.co.za

50

+27 (0)83 260 6060

1 8

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

9

| MAY 2017 | P C Review

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Khaya International.................................36 ........www.kip.co.za Lanochem ..............................................28 ........www.orthochem.co.za MGSA Consulting ....................................43 ........www.mgsaconsulting.co.za Millchem.................................................21 ........www.millchem.co.za Moco Cosmetic Packaging ..................... IFC ........www.mocopack.co.za Natchem.................................................34 ........www.natchem.co.za Nautica organic Trading ..........................26 ........www.nauticaorganics.com o6 Agencies............................................32 ........www.o6southafrica.com Pelchem .................................................22 ........www.pelchem.com Puregas ..................................................37 ........www.puregas.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals................. 19, 25 ........sfc-info@savannah.co.za Symrise ............................................... OBC ........www.symrise.com Vantage Speciality Chemicals .................23 ........www.vantagegrp.com Warrenchem ...........................................29 ........www.warrenchem.co.za

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown

closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is

seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff

your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

agents I Concentrates

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

NOVOPAK

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

Novopak is a plastic packaging

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,

company that specializes in

cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

manufacturing a complete range

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.

Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to restore

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

self-esteem and face the world

supplied and marketed globally

with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.lgfb.co.za

www.quantumcolours.co.za

“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com

”