SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
May 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 5
www.pharmacos.co.za
Your partner in analytical services
How to optimise formulations for Ethnic consumers Anti-ageing inventions that promise beautiful skin Securing propellant supply for the aerosols industry
Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.
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Contents
MAY
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
Seen at
in-cosmetics Global
May 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 5
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6
NEWS
12
Adcock Ingram acquires Virtual Logistics Evonik’s Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0 goes live
10 PRODUCT NEWS What’s new in South Africa
12 EVENTS Highlights from in-cosmetics Global 2017
Beauty boosters and buzzwords
16 ANTI-AGEING CLR addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin care Accelerating epidermal self-renewal New ingredient launches and industry trends
24 ETHNIC CARE Beat hair shrinkage with Myrica Fruit Wax J Strickland Africa celebrates African hair care Croda expands its centre of excellence
20
Local efficacy data revealed for Sepiwhite MSH The ideal ingredients for Type 4 hair products
36 AEROSOLS Puregas commissions new tank installation Major upgrades completed at Afrox
40 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY Innovative filler-binder from Meggle Lab-scale solution for rapid innovation Avaya takes mid-market companies to the cloud
PackagingREVIEW45
N SOUTH AFRICA
cos.co.za www.pharma
The route to
greener pastures
48
Volum May 2017 |
e 43 | Number
5
47 Closures, Pumps & Dispensers
Optimum ns solufotir o carton and board
Moco helps you make the right packaging choice
48 Carton & Board Integrated solutions, new ideas and fresh technology
ing Perfect packag to fit your brand
l wins technica Blister pack ova tion trophy inn
Marchesini’s FRB 500 machine
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM
Celebrating local successes
B
EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas
This edition also features the latest
eauty is big business. This was confirmed yet again at in-cosmetics
developments in the anti-ageing category
Global, which organisers are calling
(page 16), from actives based on
a ‘resounding success’. It was
epigenetics and the concept of ageing
another very busy show, with a strong focus
well to those developed using trending
on the European, American, Middle Eastern
ingredients such as turmeric. In our bumper Ethnic Care feature on
and Asian personal care markets. While it’s interesting and inspiring to learn about
page 24, you can read about several
these global developments, more African-
ingredients for multicultural formulations and
focused content is key to grow the African
how one supplier has taken the necessary
personal care industries. Despite this, the
steps to ask African consumers what they
South African cosmetics industry is booming
want from their hair and skin care products. Technology comes under the spotlight
and local suppliers are being recognised
Contributors: Cristina Davi, Danny Drew, Elena Cañadas, Harald van der Hoeven, Júlia Comas, Martina Heldermann, Núria Almiñana, Raquel Delgado ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
by their international counterparts for
in the Pharmaceutical Focus on page 40.
their excellent sales performance. At in-
Interesting reads include a new lab-scale
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
cosmetics, Greentech awarded Natchem for
solution to accelerate the development of
CIRCULATION
being the top performing distributor among
medicines, and ways in which mid-market
all its distributors worldwide, and Merck
pharma companies can utilise cloud
South Africa’s performance materials division
services to benefit their businesses. Aarifah Nosarka rounds up some
has won the company’s sales award for the EMEA region for two consecutive years.
interesting content in our regular
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo
PACKAGING REVIEW section. On page 47,
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
she shares expert advice on how
Production Controller: Rae Morrison
to select the right dispenser
Art Director: David Kyslinger
growth and development. One example
for your cosmetics product,
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
is Cirebelle, which continues to develop its
while new solutions
local market offering and is now home to
for carton and board
a fully functional, world-class laboratory.
packaging are discussed
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
Turn to page 14 now to find out more about
on page 48.
These local successes form the basis of the May edition of Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review, as we celebrate
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
this and its analytical services for niche markets. Another example, featured on
I hope you enjoy
MANAGING DIRECTOR
page 26, is the launch of an Ethnic hair care
this edition.
Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
manufacturing facility in Durban where
Bridget McCarney
J Strickland products are being produced
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
under license.
John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Technical director of Lunar Pharmaceuticals
HEAD OFFICE
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
Dr Trevor Baillie
John Knowlton
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.
CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers
Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers
4
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
IMCD can help you source the most innovative materials in the industry, as well as functional ingredients to optimise your formulations in personal care, pharma and home care.
We are the proud distributors for:
IMCD SA
I
275 Oak Avenue, Randburg 2194
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TEL: +27 11 570 4260
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FAX: +27 11 293 2069
News
Adcock Ingram acquires Virtual Logistics IN A SIGNIFICANT move to expand its distribution
The reach of over 3 000 destinations, currently
combine the two companies’ schemes under the
offering, Adcock Ingram has acquired Virtual Logistics,
serviced by Virtual Logistics, will enhance and
new structure, which will assist in achieving our
a national and cross border fine distribution company.
expand the Adcock Ingram offering of over 6 000
transformation objectives,’ Krige adds.
The acquisition became effective in April.
drop points, allowing greater choice in the route to
Jeanette Charlton, MD and owner of Virtual Logistics
market for all industry stakeholders. This is important
will join the Adcock Ingram Distribution management
Ingram is the only local pharmaceutical company
in the pharmaceutical industry where compliance
team to ensure a seamless integration process. ‘I am
offering a full service pharmaceutical distribution
requirements are non-negotiable.
excited about the future of Virtual Logistics and this
Already a well-established logistics operator, Adcock
solution. The company does direct distribution nationally to wholesalers, hospitals, pharmacies, and
‘Adcock Ingram’s valuable owner driver enterprise development initiative will gain critical mass as we
opportunity for the company to reach its full potential under the Adcock Ingram umbrella,’ she comments.
home deliveries to patients. ‘This acquisition brings us closer to realising our strategic vision of owning a fully compliant network and will make us one of the largest fine distributors in the country,’ says Tobie Krige, MD of the Adcock Ingram’s distribution division. ‘Virtual Logistics has an extensive national footprint across South Africa with various tailored solutions. This expanded footprint will complement our operational reach and capacity, allowing for improved service levels to customers, especially pharmacies. Our well established ability to offer a contract service to potential customers, will be
Adcock Ingram’s fleet of trucks will grow with the acquisition of Virtual Logistics
enhanced by this deal.’
CELEBRATING 15 YEARS OF SOUTH AFRICAN SKIN CARE AFRICAN EXTRACTS, FORMULATED with the unique protective benefits of rooibos, offers South African women effective and affordable skin care products. The company’s brand is inspired by nature, and particularly the rooibos plant, which grows in the Cederberg in the Western Cape. Rich in antioxidants, naturally soothing and proven to help skin cope with the challenges of sun exposure, rooibos is recognised worldwide for its skin care benefits. The bio-active rooibos extract used in African Extracts’ formulations is made from unfermented rooibos with the highest levels of antioxidants. This is to ensure its efficacy in fighting damaging free
TIME CONTROLLED ACTIVE DIFFUSION IN SKIN CARE STRIVING TO REMAIN at the forefront of skin care technology, Optiphi has discovered a revolutionary active ingredient that is driven by its research and development team. The new time controlled diffusion technology has been designed to improve and prolong the quality of carefully selected active ingredients used in Optiphi’s skin care formulations. Where it is protected within a highly cross-linked polymeric sphere with a continuous porous network. This innovative protective sphere safeguards the retinol, which is further protected by the airless and lightless packaging used by the brand. The porous network of the sphere allows the retinol to be continuously delivered onto the skin where it is transported to the deeper dermis layer by means of diffusion, targeting the skin structures responsible for the visible signs of ageing. According to Optiphi, time controlled diffusion retinol has been proven
radicals on the skin. The products are also formulated with vitamins,
to have the following benefits:
minerals, UV filters, advanced anti-ageing plant complexes, and
• slow absorption thereby reducing
ingredients to reduce shine and prevent breakouts. Skin care products from African Extracts suit women of all ages and skin types. The brand’s classic day cream SPF15 for normal/combination skin is African Extracts’ flagship product and remains its fastest seller today. The advantage intensive day cream SPF15 is formulated with powerful antioxidants for environmentally stressed skin. The purifying dual action moisturiser is ideal for oily skin. African Extracts is developed and manufactured in South Africa
skin irritation • porous spheres remain on the skin, providing an additional barrier and diminishing concerns of transdermal delivery • it is easier to formulate with • significantly reduces fine lines and wrinkles. The new time controlled diffusion technology
for local skin care needs and conditions. The brand is endorsed
will be included in all Optiphi’s retinol-
by Beauty Without Cruelty and the products are free from plastic
containing products. Consumers will be able
micro-beads.
to identify this with the Formula Plus sticker on the packaging.
6
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
News
PERISTALTIC PUMP PERFORMANCE REDEFINED
WATSON-MARLOW FLUID TECHNOLOGY Group recently unveiled its innovative Quantum peristaltic pump with a patented ReNu single-use (SU) technology cartridge. This sets a new standard for high-pressure feed pumps in SU tangential flow filtration, virus filtration and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Quantum represents a step-change in pump
technology for bioprocessing by enabling higher downstream process yields throughout the pressure range. It delivers virtually pulse-free linear flow, lowest shear and easy validation aligned with BPOG guidelines. It also outperforms other pumps by delivering higher accuracy with flow linearity
NEXT LEVEL SENSORY TOOL IS LAUNCHED
independent of back-pressure, removing the need for flow meters and load cells.
BUILDING ON THE success of its initial Sensory
eliminating alignment errors.
Another major benefit is ultra-low shear, half that of diaphragm pumps, which increases product viability to help maximise process yield. In addition, an integrated 4 000:1 speed control ratio allows users to sustain constant transmembrane pressure in micro and ultrafiltration. Being limited to a 200:1 control ratio in HPLC gradient work is now a thing of the past. The user interface is located at the front of the pump, enabling visual confirmation of operating state and easy access to pump controls even when skid mounted. The ReNu SU technology cartridge, which is simple to install, enables its aseptic fluid paths to be positioned quickly and accurately. The cartridge also slides effortlessly into position allowing for a change of fluid path in minutes whilst
Kaleidoscope, Evonik’s personal care business line is now bundling its global expertise in formulation design, emulsifi ers and sensory into Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0. This is an evolution of the company’s online interactive tool, which helps formulators obtain the desired skin feel for a product. Its unique functionality displays a vast range of cosmetics formulations in the context of their sensory characteristics. The impact of emulsifi ers and formulation design on the skin feel is also showcased. The online tool was created using statistical analysis of data obtained from a sensory panel. Ingredients that offer broad formulation fl exibility are becoming more important for
Interest grows for next generation natural materials THE NATURALNESS AND multi-functionality of materials are emerging as important purchase factors
formulators looking to develop consumer
for personal care products all over the world. The increased desire for a natural and healthy lifestyle
desirable products. Tego Care PBS 6, a
has intensified customer demand for biocompatible, cost-effective cosmetics with extended shelf life.
versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifi er fully based
According to Frost & Sullivan, the harmful effects of synthetic ingredients on the environment as well
on renewable sources, provides this fl exibility
as undesirable side effects such as allergies, skin irritations and skin reddening are hastening this
when formulating a range of skin care
switch to natural materials.
products. It is differentiated by a wide variety of sensory profiles. Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0 can also help
‘Material suppliers’ primary area of focus is providing natural compositions using natural active ingredients such as vegetable oils,’ notes Frost & Sullivan TechVision research analyst, Marta Serafin. ‘Consequently, there is intense focus on nanomaterials and antimicrobials, which ensure
formulators find ingredients that can impart
the stabilisation of these highly reactive ingredients and extend their shelf life. Delivery systems
innovative textures to add a fun element to
and dermal fillers for smooth and supple texture as an alternative to dermal surgeries are also vital
consumers’ daily beauty routines. Examples
research areas.’
include Evonik’s caring oil release cream, which has a surprising cream texture, and the magic cream to milk, which releases milk-like droplets during application.
Advances in Material Technologies for Personal Care, a part of Frost & Sullivan’s TechVision growth partnership service programme, finds that large chemical companies are already trying to improve the sustainability of their products. For instance, in April 2016, BASF presented new products in line with its motto, ‘all about tomorrow’, to promote green chemistry in personal care products. The voice of the customer is the biggest influencer of the personal care industry and this compels manufacturers to invest significantly in R&D. Additionally, the industry is beset by a lack of uniform legislation, which challenges global handling. For example, while the Chinese market requires animal testing, the European and US markets forbid it. ‘The US is currently leading the personal care industry in terms of market participation and the number of patents obtained,’ notes Serafin. ‘The strongest market adoption and innovations will be from Asia, especially Japan and South Korea. The highly developed online sales channel is further aiding the expansion of Asian cosmetics into the European and US markets, connecting consumers directly with producers.’
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
7
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Coschem morning refresher: Costing your Finished Product 21 June Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, JHB www.coschem.co.za
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| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Cosmoprof North America 9 to 11 July Las Vegas, US www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
Coschem Refresher: Preservatives 26 July Coschem office, Randpark Ridge, JHB www.coschem.co.za
August AMA Introduction to Aerosol Technology 16 to 17 August Rosslyn, Pretoria www.aerosol.co.za
Coschem JHB Ladies’ Day 17 August JHB Country Club, Auckland Park www.coschem.co.za
Old is
the new young WEB WITH ON THE
//
www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-and-opinions/1978
T
he average global life
2016, as well as economic and sales
procedures, such as injectable fillers.
expectancy is now 72 years,
data from its Passport platform. For
Companies are also rethinking their
up from 69 years in 2005.
example, the boundaries of old age
marketing by adapting or segmenting
Over the past decade, the
continue to shift as we live longer and
their products and packaging. For
global percentage of people aged over
take better care of our health and
example, greater product customisation
60 years grew from 10 to 12 percent, and
wellbeing. The number of over-60s has
is more evident in the cosmetics industry
by 2020 this fi gure is expected to rise 13
risen by a third over the last decade,
along with the use of older icons in
percent. This data on the world’s ageing
making this the fastest growing consumer
advertising campaigns.
population and the implications it has
segment. As a result, there is a rise in
on brands are discussed in Euromonitor
products that address consumers’ age-
and-opinions/1978 to learn more about
International’s white paper entitled Old is
management needs.
the global population and ageing trends,
Visit www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-
According to the white paper, a
as well as how to target consumers
large and growing market has arisen
looking for anti-ageing, holistic and
for products and treatments that
fitness lifestyle products. Follow the link to
Euromonitor’s Global Consumer Trends
incorporate anti-ageing properties
the Euromonitor webpage to download
Survey of 2016 and its Beauty Survey of
ranging from beauty devices to aesthetic
your free copy of this white paper.
the New Young: How Global Consumers Are Challenging Ageing. This report includes results from
STAYING UP TO DATE Subscribe to P C Review’s e-newsletters to receive the latest information on industry developments, events, trade shows, seminars and launches, both local and international. Log onto www.pharmacos.co.za or send an e-mail to celeste.smit@newmediapub.co.za to activate your e-newsletter subscription.
FIND US Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review @SApharmacos
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
9
STREET HA booster serum Team Dr Joseph has launched a booster serum for mature skins which is formulated with biotechnological hyaluronic acid. It also includes hibiscus extract,
Intelligent skin skin care
said to be a plant-based alternative to Botox, and select luxury ingredients. These fine-tuned, high-tech complexes work together to provide a visibly smooth, firm and youthful glow. Team Dr Joseph skin care products are distributed in South Africa by FutureThis. Go to www.futurethis. co.za to find out more about this brand.
Nimue Skin Technology has launched its new Age Intelligent range
Water saving innovation
recommended for consumers aged 45 and older. The range promises to address the signs of environmentally damaged skin, including dryness, dehydration, wrinkles, loss of elasticity
24-hour care
and sagging. The key active ingredients include botanical extracts, advanced peptides and acetylated glucuronic acid formulated in a hybrid delivery system using polarised water and liposomal vesicles. Nimue’s Age
Label.m is making it easy to save water with its range of dry shampoos. The products
SkinPhD promises to protect skin from sun up
promise to refresh hair in-
to sun set. The brand offers a day care lotion
between shampooing using
and night care cream packaged in a 50mℓ
natural rich starch to disperse
Intelligent range includes day and
oil. The dry shampoos also
tube. These effective and easily absorbed
night creams, a face serum, and an eye serum – all available in selected spas and salons nationwide.
dermatological preparations help reverse
work as a brilliant matte
the visible signs of ageing. The day lotion
texturiser for a soft touch,
is formulated with a linoleic/linolenic acid
and velvet finish. Label.m Dry Shampoo offers a standard
complex while the night care cream includes a scientifically advanced biomimetic peptide to
option and one specially
stimulate natural collagen production. Got to
formulated for brunettes. These products are packaged in a
www.skinphd.co.za to find out more about this
200ml aerosol can and sold at
professional spa and salon brand.
Fighting photoageing SkinCeuticals, a cosmeceutical skin care brand powered by L’Oréal, has launched Metacell Renewal
selected Splush stores.
Intense and pure
The French luxury house
B3. This comprehensive corrective
Fragrance Du Bois recently
treatment addresses the early signs
revealed the latest addition
of photoageing. The product brings
to its range of exquisite
cutting-edge, effective ingredients
products – Oud Intense. The
to consumers for a re-clarified
fragrance is said to be an unadulterated,
tone and retightened skin surface.
daring expression of Oud at is finest. This key ingredient is 100 percent pure and
SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3
undiluted, delivering one of nature’s most prized treasures in its simplest, most
is available online from the following
fundamental form. Provenance and sustainably are key to Fragrance Du Bois’
sites: www.dermastore.co.za; www.
ethos. The company condemns the use of illegal sources of Oud, which is why
skinmiles.com and www.store.
only pure Oud oil is used in this fragrance. The oil is produced from trees on
skinrenewal.co.za.
the company’s own plantations. Visit www.fragrancedubois.com for more info about this fragrance creation.
10
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Créations soins®
NORDIC BEAUTY from The Innovation Company® The Nordic Beauty range consists of natural materials from Finland with a long history of use as healing or beautifying ingredients. They meet the ISO 16128-1 standard for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and are ideal materials for natural beauty products ranging from skin and body care to professional beauty and wellness treatments.
• Nordic Beauty Peat • Nordic Beauty Pine bark • Nordic Beauty Birch Sap and Leaf extract • Nordic Beauty Berry extracts
Number of blood cells (10s videos) before and 20 minutes after application on five subjects
Hydration (conductance) (μS) depending on the time before and 30 minutes after Nordic Beauty Application vs. Glycerin and Hyaluronic acid 250
20
15
10
5 5
200
150
100
50 0
0
Subject nro
Conductance (μS)
Number of blood cells
25
1
2 Number of blood cells before application
3
4
5
Number of blood cells 20 minutes after application
The number of blood cells has increased by 78% in average after 20 minutes when using Nordic Beauty Peat mask (100% peat).
Before Nordic Beauty Peat
After 30 min Glycerin (10% in water)
Hyaluronic Acid (1% in water)
In 30 minutes, the hydration has improved by 711% with Nordic Beauty Peat, 480% with Glycerin (10% in water) and 9% with Hyaluronic Acid (1% in water).
The Global
beauty spot
ExCeL London, the host venue for in-cosmetics Global 2017
Back in London after 15 years, in-cosmetics Global 2017 was a great success for exhibitors and visitors alike. Colour cosmetics, sustainability and natural ingredients were among the biggest highlights.
O
ver three action-packed
Its Nordic Beauty natural ingredients were
Defending skin against sunlight
days, industry professionals
launched at the show. Sourced from the
DSM launched Pepha-Age, a sustainably
visited ExCeL London, in the
forests and fields of Finland, these ingredients
sourced extract produced using freshwater
UK, to connect with suppliers,
are inspired by the traditional use of natural
microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens,
learn about new ingredient launches and
resources within the region. The star of the
which has high resistance to sunlight.
attend educational seminars, workshops
Nordic Beauty product range is peat – a
The extract is produced in state-of-the-art
and tutorials. More than 100 countries were
highly active biomass rich in humic and
photo-bioreactors using a biotech process,
represented this year, with 72 percent of the
fulvic acids. It is an ideal for face masks and
and contains a unique mixture of amino
audience travelling from outside the UK.
body treatments, while peat extract can be
This reaffirms in-cosmetics Global’s position
used in various skin care applications.
as the world’s leading event for personal care ingredients. This year’s event saw 8 784 unique visitors
Other ingredients in the range include pine bark, Birch sap and leaf extract, and various berry extracts. To showcase
(pre-audit) from 105 countries meet with
these ingredients in finished products, The
780 exhibitors.
Innovation Company produced a range of handmade bar soaps, which are perfect for
Sun, skin and colour innovations The Innovation Company, represented in
the South African market. The Innovation Company is also renowned
South Africa by Fourchem, wowed visitors
for its sun care formulation and testing
with its golden stand and a long list of
expertise. To showcase this, it presented two
innovative offerings showcased in stunning
lipsticks formulated with a UV filter, bringing
applications.
the benefit of sun protection to lip care
Based on its novel Fiflow BB61 ingredient,
products. This is also possible in a clear gloss
the company’s bubbling masks are
format for men, and in coloured lip gloss
available in several variations with different
for children.
properties. Fiflow BB61 is a combination of fully fluorinated perfluorocarbons, which have the capacity to carry oxygen to the skin.
BROADENING HORIZONS IN LONDON Karen Coomber and Esna Colyn at the Silab facility in France in June 2014 on their journey to upgrade the Placecol skin care range. Visiting in-cosmetics and reconnecting with companies like Silab and Rahn brought back many memories for Colyn of these impressive companies
AFTER THE JOURNEY to upgrade the Placecol skin care range with Karen Coomber, the brand’s original formulator, the newly launched Placecol Illuminé skin care range won the 2016
The Nordic Beauty ingredients from The Innovation Company showcased in various applications, including bar soaps, at in-cosmetics
Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review/Symrise
New Product Competition. Esna Colyn, Imbalie Beauty’s CEO, travelled to in-cosmetics and had this to say about her show experience: ‘I attended a workshop on “the future of anti-ageing skin care” and learnt that it takes five to seven years to launch a new active ingredient in the skin care industry. Considering our journey of 24 months to relaunch the Placecol skin care range, this was actually much shorter than the norm. The quality of the exhibition stands was of a very high standard and most impressive. It was great for me to learn about the new trends. For organisations that want to be leading and innovative, it is considered a must-attend event. I am grateful that our group received the opportunity to visit in-cosmetics and would like to continue to attend annually.’
12
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
developments, providing the highest quality
Cosmetics) took the Silver prize for Emulfeel,
ingredients as well as expert formulation
while Evonik won Bronze.
support and technical advice.
In the Green Ingredient category, run in partnership with Ecovia Intelligente, Naturex
Awarding excellence and innovation
won the Gold award for Eliorelys. Silver went
Passioline from Laboratoires Expanscience
and Biolie received Bronze for Greentense.
to Kahai SAS for its new Cacay Oil product,
and FiberHance BM Solution from Ashland
In the Make-up Bar category, Ronald
took home the Innovation Zone Best
Britton was named the inaugural winner for
Ingredient Gold Awards in the active and
its cosmetics Bio-glitter. Nikko Chemicals
functional ingredient categories respectively.
received Silver for its Iro-Odori jelly eye
In the actives category, Gattefossé’s Gatuline
shadow and Lubrizol’s Avalure Flex-6 Polymer
Link ‘n Lift won Silver and Lipotec’s Reproage
was presented with the Bronze award.
peptide (from Savannah Fine Chemicals)
In-cosmetics Global 2018 will be
acids, vitamins (B3), lutein, algal sugars and
won Bronze. In the functional category,
taking place in Amsterdam from 17 to 19
minerals (zinc).
Hallstar’s Micah (from Millchem) and Inter
April, with 90 percent of exhibitor space
Actifs – Aceto Corporation’s Helicoidal
already booked.
The results of in vitro tests on PephaAge showed it stimulates skin’s resilience
Emulsion Technology both received Silver
Visitors can download the full post
through improved fibroblast viability. It also
awards. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics took the
show report at www.in-cosmetics.com/
regenerates skin post UV and blue light
Bronze prize for Siligel.
showreview2017, which provides access to
stress, while increasing collagen levels. Ex
In the Sensory category Biesterfeld
more exclusive show statistics, as well as
vivo studies confirmed the collagen increase
scooped the top prize for its Body & Seoul
in-depth guides on the Innovation Zone,
and revealed a reduced number of sunburn
formulation kit. Chemyunion (Chemgrit
Sensory Bar and Make-up Bar products. ·
cells after exposure to UVB radiation.
Value through expertise IMCD launched its Big on Beauty campaign
SPOTTED AT IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL
at the show, highlighting its passion for
1
M ichel Colson, and Liezl and Will Coetsee (Botanica Natural Products)
2
M axine Robertson (Symrise), Bridget MacDonald and Roy Gardiner (Coschem), Brenda Groves (CJP Chemicals) and Karin Barends (Symrise)
3
Johan Hennessey and Allison Barty (Siyeza Fine Chem)
4
Robyn Brown (Botanichem) and Darryl Mostert (Chemgrit Cosmetics)
5
M arcel van Rooyen and Chris Damen (Millchem) with Karen Maier (Merck)
6
D r Sarah Venter (EcoProducts)
developing innovative cosmetics and personal care products. The focus saw the company paying homage to the importance of cosmetics in everyday life. Used by men and women of all races across every
1
continent, these products accompany
2
consumers throughout their entire existence – from childhood right through to their senior years. With an extensive technical and commercial team of highly experienced professionals from across the world, IMCD has detailed industry knowledge. It aims to help its partners achieve success in their
3
4
5
6
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
13
Company Focus
Delivering innovation where it counts
Sean Mashimbyi operating the Spectrum Two IR Spectrometer
With its strong technical capabilities, unique locally produced wax ingredients and the desire to drive skills development at university level, Cirebelle stands out in the cosmetics industry. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review reveals the company’s latest news.
C
irebelle continues to develop its market offering to ensure it remains relevant while providing value. In June
2016, the company set out to establish a world-class laboratory, which is now fully functional. According to Sean Mashimbyi, Cirebelle’s analytical services supervisor, the facility is fitted with some of the most technologically advanced laboratory equipment, including a Clarus 580 Gas Chromatograph and Spectrum Two IR Spectrometer from PerkinElmer. The Sean Mashimbyi performing an oil content analysis
Cirebelle is ideally positioned to provide analytical services to niche markets like the cosmetics industry
quality control laboratory also boasts an oil content apparatus, which is a highly specialised instrument and possibly one of only two in the country. This is used to quantify the quality of Cirebelle’s waxbased products. ‘With our fully functional high-tech laboratory, Cirebelle is ideally positioned to provide outsourced analytical services in southern Africa,’ Mashimbyi explains. ‘Our capabilities are vast, ranging from ingredient and product specific competencies to research and development and technical expertise to assist customers with formulations and new product development.’
Cirebelle’s first intern, Kellinah Dumani
Industry skills development programme When P C Review first revealed Cirebelle’s plans to establish a laboratory, the magazine also highlighted the company’s programmeto launch an internship programme. This is aimed at students looking to gain much needed on-the-job experience in the industry. The first intern to partake in the programme is currently employed at Cirebelle and working closely with Mashimbyi in the laboratory. The company is now expanding the programme beyond its lab to various other functions within the business, such as marketing, engineering and research and development. ·
Cirebelle – www.cirebelle.com
14
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Anti-ageing
Facing an
underrated skin problem SyriCalm CLR (PC) from CLR Chemisches Laboratorium shows immense benefits in formulations intended for sensitive or stressed skin. Technical marketing director, Harald van der Hoeven discusses how the active ingredient addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin care.
T
o maintain its barrier properties,
lipid-rich matrix making the SC the actual
skin is constantly in a process
physical barrier between the body and the
of renewal. In this process the
outside world. The turnover time of a healthy
keratinocytes, which make up
functioning epidermis is estimated to be
the epidermis, go through a continuous
between two and five weeks, depending on
process of differentiation. The result is a
factors such as age.
well-established stratum corneum (SC), in which corneocytes are embedded in a
The SC is extremely vulnerable to external attacks. For instance, exposure to UV light
or surfactants, as well as sudden changes in environmental humidity and temperature all have a negative impact on the SC’s quality. This not only influences the physical barrier properties of the skin, but also negatively affects the layers below the SC. Keratinocytes in the stratum granulosum (SG) can also be affected negatively by external stresses. These are regarded as the ‘real SC factory’ because this is the section of the epidermis where the keratinocytes produce the precursors of the natural moisturising factors and ceramides. This is also where the keratinocytes go through a keratinisation process where they metamorphose into corneocytes. These processes are all fundamentally important
Figure 1: Water gradient in normal skin (green line) compared to that of dry skin (red line)
in building up a strong SC. It is crucial to maintain the quality and activity of the keratinocytes in the SG. In this context, one specific property of these cells demands special attention – namely cellular volume. This is essential for cellular functioning. Negative external influences directly and indirectly induce hyperosmotic stress, and hence the loss of cellular volume in the epidermis.
What is hyperosmotic stress? This phenomenon can affect keratinocytes in the SG. While the SG has a steep water gradient, SC disruption leads to an increase in water loss and volume degradation of these cells (see Figure 1). At the border between the stratum spinosum and SG, the cells start to lose water. The intracellular water concentration reaches about 40 percent at the border between SG and SC, while at the surface of the skin the cells contain 15 to 30 percent water. This extreme Figure 2: The assessment of taurine efflux and the effect of SyriCalm CLR (PC)
loss of intracellular water in the SG is part of the regular differentiation process. Hyperosmotically stressed skin shows a significantly elevated loss of intracellular water depicted by the red line in Figure 1. External stresses lead to an elevated loss of cellular water in the SG. A disruption of its quality – an abundant phenomenon caused by external stress – leads to the drying out of the SC. This is where the corneocytes start absorbing water from the SG. Another cause of hyperosmotic stress is the penetration of electrolytes into the skin, causing keratinocytes to try and
16
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Anti-ageing Figure 3: Treatment with SyriCalm CLR (PC) reduces taurine efflux and strengthens the ability of skin’s cells to deal with hyperosmotic stress
Therefore, in a slower
Radiolabeled taurine was supplemented to
process, osmolytes, of
the skin model during t0 to 48 hours. From
which taurine is the best
t50 to t96 hours, an efflux of the radiolabeled
described in literature,
taurine took place. This was analysed at 72
are pumped into the
and 96 hours (see Figure 3).
keratinocytes, while the
The different treatments with the natural
excess electrolytes are
active showed moderate to significant
drained. Taurine can be
results in helping to reduce the taurine
considered a ‘natural
efflux. At 72 hours, the control skin models,
moisturising factor’ for
which were not treated with the active, had
the keratinocytes in the
lost about 70 percent of all taurine, and at
SG. Its main goal is to
96 hours, more than 80 percent of all taurine
bind water and manage
was lost by the hyperosmotically stressed
cellular volume.
cells in the 3D epidermal skin model.
Despite the highly
These results strongly indicate that, in
intriguing way in
this experiment, the cells had entered the
which the cells deal
previously described vicious cycle. At 72
with hyperosmotic
hours, both the accumulated results of the
stress, their strategy
first and second application, as well as the
has one essential flaw:
single third application, reduced the efflux
taurine is lost by the
significantly to about 50 percent. Together,
keratinocytes in the SG,
all three treatments resulted in a reduction
re-equilibrate the electrolyte concentrations
which starts a vicious cycle of further loss
of taurine efflux to less than 30 percent. After
in the intra- and extracellular compartment.
of cellular volume and barrier repair and
96 hours, the third treatment alone and
When this happens, they pump out cellular
maintenance malfunction. The reduction
all three treatments together still showed
water resulting in a decrease in cellular
of taurine efflux is an important strategy in
significant effects (see Figure 4).
volume. Penetration of electrolytes into
supporting skin’s functionality to perform its
the skin is a phenomenon common in skin
physical barrier function.
exposed to sweat, sea water and urine.
These results confirm that SyriCalm CLR (PC) addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin care, helping cells in the SG to maintain
Reduction of the efflux of taurine
cellular volume and functioning. The active
The active ingredient SyriCalm CLR (PC)
ingredient, which is available in South
Interestingly, keratinocytes have a strategy
(INCI: Water, Phragmite Communis Extract,
Africa from IMCD, plays a beneficial role in
to deal with hyperosmotic stress. The loss
Poria Cocos Extract) significantly helps in
maintaining and repairing skin’s physical
of cellular volume is almost immediately
reducing the efflux of taurine, as measured
barrier properties. This was also confirmed
compensated by electrolytes being
on epidermal skin models undergoing
in vivo, where UV-induced barrier disruption,
pumped into the intracellular space. As
hyperosmotic stress. An in vitro 3D
measured as an increase in TEWL, showed
these electrolytes attract water, the water
epidermal skin model was hyperosmotically
accelerated repair with a formulation
concentration in the keratinocytes and
stressed for a total of 96 hours. It was
containing the active. ·
the cellular volume are re-established.
treated with three different applications of
While this is a quick process, the high
the active ingredient:
concentration of electrolytes in the
• first application at 0 to 48 hours
intracellular space has a negative effect
• second at 24 to 48 hours
on the keratinocytes’ proper functioning.
• third at 48 to 50 hours.
Dealing with hyperosmotic stress
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
17
Anti-ageing
Inspired by epigenetics Lipotec’s Reproage peptide helps reactivate basal cells, triggering the longevity of the epidermis’ self-renewing properties. The company, which is represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, has proven its efficacy in achieving a smoother, more radiant and younger looking skin. By Júlia
E
pigenetics is gaining interest in the
levels were then detected and quantified by means
cosmetics industry. The term implies a set of
of a hybridisation-based assay. Results showed a
biochemical modifications that modulate
25.4 percent decrease (p<0.001) in the quantity of
gene expression, turning it on or off.
microRNA-145 versus non-treated cells.
Biochemical modifications can occur with cellular
Another test was performed to assess the effect of
ageing, or from environmental and lifestyle factors.
the peptide in increasing the levels of certain stem
They consist of mechanisms that work above the
cell markers.
DNA sequence and include the modification of
HEKs were incubated for 48 hours with one or
histones, DNA methylation, changes in chromatin
five µg/mL Reproage peptide, or they were left
conformation and non-coding RNAs, such as
untreated as a control. RT-PCR was the technique
the microRNAs. These epigenetic modifications
used to quantify the stem cell markers SOX2, OCT4
determine how cells behave and can play a role in
and KLF4, obtaining statistically significant inductions
different physiological functions .
of the three transcription factors, which suggests an
1,2
improvement in the renewal capacity.
The epidermis and its regeneration
Reconstructed human epidermis models were
The cells located in the basal layer, consisting of
used to verify changes in specific cell markers after
stem and progenitor cells, are responsible for the
the treatment with 10µg/mL Reproage peptide
epidermis’ regenerative capacity. Progenitor cells
or with only the medium (control). By means of
are undifferentiated and can proliferate several
immunohistochemistry, keratins K14 and K10 and the
times before starting the differentiation process into
transcription factor p63 were detected in the different
keratinocytes . The transition from the basal to the
epidermal models. They were then further quantified
suprabasal layer involves a change in expression of
through fluorescence microscopy images.
3
characteristic cell markers. Particularly, basal keratin
Results of the peptide treatment showed a 71.3
14 (K14) and p63 (required for a high regenerative
percent decrease in suprabasal K10 and a 325.8
potential) decrease their expression during
percent increase of basal K14, both in a statistically
differentiation, while suprabasal keratin 10 (K10)
significant manner (p<0.001). This indicates the
increases it .
peptide’s ability to support the recovery of the
4
The renewal capacity of basal cells is mainly maintained by the transcription factors OCT4,
basal state. After incubation with the active ingredient, the
SOX2 and KLF4, which are stem cell markers. The
levels of p63 in basal epidermis were found to
activity of these markers can in turn be regulated
increase by 110.9 percent (p<0.0001).
Comas, Cristina
by microRNAs, such as the microRNA-145 (or
Davi, Elena
miRNA-145). Basal cells are characterised by
Renewal and smoothing skin’s surface
their low miRNA-145 levels, which increase during
A clinical study was performed to evaluate the
differentiation .
self-renewal properties of the epidermis and the
Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado
5
With age, basal cells’ behaviour regulation can
changes in roughness on two panels of female
be impaired, resulting in slower epidermal turnover,
volunteers. The panels consisted of 20 volunteers
which leads to increased skin dullness or roughness.
aged 35 to 40 years old, and another 20 aged
Targeting proliferation maintenance through
50 to 55. They applied a cream containing two
miRNA-145 and stem cell factors in epidermal
percent Reproage peptide and a placebo cream,
cells could be an opportunity to reactivate skin’s
twice a day. Renewal of the stratum corneum was
regenerative properties.
assessed on the volunteers’ skin of the forearm using
With the concept of cell reprogramming in mind,
dihydroxyacetone staining. Colour change was
Reproage peptide was developed to assist in the
assessed by means of spectrophotometry while the
acceleration of the epidermal self-renewal. Several
stratum corneum turnover time (SCTT) was evaluated
in vitro and in vivo studies were performed to support
under different conditions for the two groups. A third
its efficacy.
group of younger subjects (aged 18 to 25) was used to obtain a correlation between SCTT and age from
Test methods and results
the three groups, therefore interpolating the years of
Reproage peptide’s ability to modulate the
rejuvenation after each treatment.
epigenetic factor miR-145 was evaluated in human
18
Results showed a decrease in the SCTT, which
keratinocytes (HEKa). The cells were incubated with
differed between age groups. The SCTT of the group
10µg/mL of the peptide for 24 hours, while non-
aged 35 to 40, treated with the active cream, was
treated cells were used as a control. The miR-145
consistent with skin 13 years younger, whereas
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Anti-ageing Figure 1: Reconstructed 3D images of skin roughness. The reduction in surface depth can be observed as a tendency to change from red to blue
the rejuvenation for the group aged 50 to 55 was consistent with that of skin 17 years younger. Skin roughness was also evaluated using a microtopography imaging system. After treatment, a reduction in skin surface irregularities was observed (see Figure 1).
Radiant and better-looking skin A second clinical study was performed to assess complexion changes after the application of a cream with two percent Reproage peptide. The cream was applied twice a day for 56 days on the face of 20 female volunteers, aged 35 to 55. At the end of the treatment, skin luminance (L*) was measured using image analysis software. The L* parameter increased by 1.5 percent (p<0.05), suggesting a more radiant and improved complexion. Reproage peptide assists in enhancing the regenerative properties of the epidermis, helping achieve the typical behaviour of younger cells and resulting in a more radiant complexion. The peptide suggests a reprogramming effect on skin, supporting recovery of the basal state. ·
Lipotec – www.lipotec.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
peptides and synthetic molecules
Reprogramming the skin for a youthful appearance
EPIGENETICS BROUGHT TO COSMETICS
Renewal and smoothing of skin surface in 50-55 years old volunteers revitalized skin behaving as up to
SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 - E-mail: sfc-info@savannah.co.za
LPTC_prms_Reproage_177x130mmHP_ENG_P&C_AAFF.indd 1
17 years younger
41.3% decrease in skin roughness www.lipotec.com All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2017 The Lubrizol Corporation.
5/4/17 12:59
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
19
Anti-ageing
Beauty boosters and buzzwords
Maintaining a youthful look no longer requires going under the knife. This is thanks to major breakthroughs in active ingredients that target the signs of ageing. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review shares the latest antiageing innovations.
T
he beauty industry loves
Targeting consumers over 55 years
buzzwords. This year, the anti-
of age with a key concern of dry/flaky
ageing category is characterised
skin, Aquaxtrem offers intense hydration
by a few distinct ones, including
to overcome feelings of skin discomfort
epigenetics, ‘inflammaging’, well-ageing, marine ingredients, anti-stress, and of course, anti-pollution.
and tightness. It is said to stimulate skin’s own mechanisms to balance the moisture
With Aquaxtrem, the Provital
content, leaving consumers feeling more
Group, represented in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is addressing
comfortable and ‘happier in their skin’. New in vivo test results demonstrate
consumers’ needs to age well,
how seniors experienced enhanced skin
or gracefully.
comfort when using Aquaxtrem, positively
Crest Chemicals
Representing ABITEC on products for ageing skin
20
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
T. +27 (0) 11 254 3433 | M. +27 (0) 83 297 0655 E.Angelique.Myburgh@crestchem.co.za 247 15th Road, Randjespark, Midrand, 1685, South Africa PO Box 4280, Midrand, 1685, South Africa crestchem.co.za
HYDRO~KOTE® CAPTEX® STEROTEX® PURECO® CAPROL® CAPMUL® NUTRI SPERSE®
Anti-ageing
Seniors experienced enhanced skin comfort when using Aquaxtrem, positively affecting their well-being
affecting their well-being.
Codif Laboratories,
This sense of comfort
represented in South
is measured using a
Africa by Vantage,
Facial Action Coding
has developed an
System or FACS, which is
active ingredient, which
based on the analysis of
enables sensitive skin to
facial micro expressions.
follow a certain rhythm when
These results show how
faced with the harmful
volunteers’ happiness
effects of a hectic lifestyle.
increased 3.6 points over
It is an extract of the curry
five possible points.
plant, Helichrysum italicum, and while it is not new, the
Relaxing and rejuvenating skin Any stressful condition
company has just released new data on the ingredient. Water of Helichrysum is rich in
releases cortisol, which is a normal and
aromatic compounds that stimulate
healthy adaptation reflex when released
the production of relaxing molecules,
in small amounts. However, people who
ß-endorphins. This soothes skin a few
are prone to a hectic lifestyle will sustain
minutes after being applied and
high levels of cortisol, which can negatively
strengthens the cutaneous barrier
affect the skin. This can lead to the
to make skin less reactive.
alteration of barrier function and sensitivity
Areaumat Perpetua is a floral water of
symptoms such as redness, itching, tingling,
Helychrisum italicum obtained by low
stinging and inflammation.
temperature vacuum hydro-distillation.
According to research, approximately 50
This technique enables the most delicate
percent of females and 30 percent of males
aromatic compounds in the plant to be
have sensitive skin issues.
extracted. This floral water stimulates
Millchem, through international partnerships, offers speciality ingredients and leading technologies for skin, hair and body care. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
21
Anti-ageing
inflammation that has already occurred.
It has been reported that a large
Skin becomes less reactive within a few
amount of carbon is required for the flower
minutes of it being applied and during
to open which is mainly constituted by
testing, a soothing effect was observed
carbohydrates. This is more evident for
in 100 percent of volunteers within five
some cut flowers, including the rose.
minutes. The floral water also protects skin’s
Based on this research, Akoactive
defensive systems, supports cohesion
Queen active ingredient is obtained from
of the dermis and preserves the water
the petals of the English rose by delicate
balance of the skin.
extraction using a mixture of water and glycerin. The result is a scented clear liquid,
A royal active ingredient
rich in polyphenols and carbohydrates.
Akoactive Queen is a unique and noble
The synergic concentration of polyphenols
extract of the English Keira rose petals.
and carbohydrates provides immediate
It contains solubilised flower waxes for
skin hydration and helps to protect skin
the release of a neuro-mediator with
immediate and long-term skin moisturising
from extreme and severe weather agents.
relaxing effects and reduces inflammation
and protection.
Akoactive Queen gives skin a fresh look,
mediators. Sensitive and reactive skins are
The active is supplied in a water-
reduces signs of fatigue, and improves
soluble clear liquid for ease of use, and
skin brightness and radiance. The active
offers protective, nourishing, immediate
ingredient is available in South Africa
composed of 31 amino acids, has several
and long-term hydration, and anti-
from Millchem.
effects. It decreases pain and stress as well
ageing benefits.
therefore immediately relaxed. ß-endorphin, a neuromediator
as increases the feeling of well-being and
In the last decade, several studies
Turmeric, the trending ingredient
healing. It is also produced in the skin by
have been published highlighting flower
Various studies have shown that skin
epidermal keratinocytes and nerve endings
metabolism and how to prolong a flower’s
reveals our innermost feelings, and can
present in the dermis and epidermis.
blooming period. This has provided access
act as a tell-tale sign of trauma, stress and
to new knowledge of the inside of flowers
emotional turmoil. Scientists call this the
and their nutrients.
brain-skin connection, and it’s the focus
Areaumat Perpetua prevents the inflammatory response and reduces
Global Manufacturer & Supplier of Commodity and Speciality Chemicals We’re in your world, proud supplier of the following ingredients • • • • •
Anti-aging Actives (Cosmetics) Hydrofluoric Acid (Petrochemical, Steel, Industrial) Fluorine (Medical, Electronics) Xenon Difluoride (Electronics) Surface Fluorination of Polymers (Automotive, Agrochemicals)
PO Box 582 I Pretoria 0001 I South Africa T +27 12 305 4444
F +27 12 305 4445
E sales@pelchem.co.za w www.pelchem.com
22
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Anti-ageing
of Vytrus Biotech’s latest ingredient launched at in-cosmetics Global. TurmeriaZenPRCF is said to be an
Peptides and pollution protection
extracellular matrix, initiating the repair
As we age, the lines of communication
and younger looking skin.’
mechanisms, resulting in smoother, firmer
emotional hydration manager. The active
between our skin and cells break
ingredient is developed from Curcuma
down. As a result, the body no longer
radical protection ingredient, which
longa, a tropical and subtropical plant
produces collagen or elastin in the
prevents premature skin ageing efficiently
characterised by its orange ramified
same quantities to repair skin damage
and continuously over 24 hours. It
rhizome. These modified roots act as
as it did when we were younger. Karen
neutralises the impact of pollutants on
Maier, head of performance
storage and resistance organs, and have excellent regenerative
DID YOU KNOW?
properties. The plant is rich in diarylheptanoids (mainly curcumin)
materials South Africa, at Merck, says the company’s RonaCare
TurmeriaZenPRCF make
Google rates masks are the biggest skin care trend to watch in 2017. This finding is detailed in the search engine’s Beauty Trends 2017 report, which states ‘masking’ is currently the most Googled skin care trend. This is largely fueled by social media such as sheet mask selfies and instagrammable treatments like peel-off masks. Source:
the ingredient a highly
www.thinkwithgoogle.com
lending to it being the most bio-medically researched plant. The exclusive combination of cell factors in
effective solution to manage hydration on an emotional level. This is coupled with its anti-wrinkle efficacy. Vytrus Biotech’s products are
Cyclopeptide-5
RonaCare AP is Merck’s premium
the skin by attacking the free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which are formed from exposure to air pollution and/or radiation. RonaCare AP is as efficient as tocopherol and as stable
(alcohol-free) offers
as tocopherol acetate, which means it
an elegant solution
provides ongoing radical protection. It
to this problem. ‘It is
also protects the sebum components,
the first homodetic,
reducing both skin redness and the
cyclic, biomimetic
formation of acne. This ingredient protects
peptide for cosmetics application. It is customised to fit
the skin against infra-red radiation – and as an added benefit – will stabilise UV filters in a formulation. ·
dedicated integrins, or skin surface receptors, which take care of the skin’s communication processes. RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5
distributed locally by Savannah
mimics the transmission of signals
Fine Chemicals.
between the skin cells and the
Merck – www.merck.co.za Millchem – www.millchem.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za Vantage – www.lipochemicals.com
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
23
Ethnic Care
The edge of
innovation Ethnic beauty is one of the most promising vectors of growth in the expanding personal care market. While this market is not new, in recent years the demand for multicultural products has grown thanks to the rising middle class in emerging markets. By Martina Heldermann
Edge control products are also very popular for taming new hair and keeping braids, twists and cornrows in shape
T
offerings on the market and of course intensified competition among brands. This creates increased marketing activity usually resulting in enhanced consumption. For example, in North America the number of Ethnic personal care products launched is growing from year to year. There is also significant expansion in Africa’s hair care market, with conditioners growing by 11 percent encouraged by enhanced internet connectivity and the demands of a rising middle class. But what products are best suited to the Ethnic consumers’ needs, and what is trending in multicultural beauty? Anti-ageing products have never been that popular as this concern is more dominant among Caucasian consumers. However, products promising to moisturise, brighten and provide an even skin tone are very popular. Multibeneficial alphabet creams that cover and correct, brightening and blurring creams or oil controlling ones are all commonly used by Ethnic consumers.
he biggest challenge in Ethnic beauty care
More mainstream brands are also entering this
is research and development. Catering to
market with naturally positioned products.
multicultural consumers requires product development for a much broader range of
The lack of diversity in makeup shades has been the cosmetics industry’s biggest flaw. But now
hair and skin types. Ethnic skin is better adapted to
beauty giants are taking a step in the right direction
the sun, but when exposed to a cold, dry climate
by launching products in a much broader colour
it loses its protective hydrolipidic film and natural
range. These include trendy liquid metal shades
radiance. The skin type requires special care,
such as warm silver, copper and bronze, which
including moisturisation, sebum control, and
flatter especially darker skin types. Also popular
smoothing products.
are orange and spicy nuances such as cinnamon,
Ethnic hair, be it relaxed, braided or a natural afro, needs special care too. This hair type can
nutmeg and curry. The movement in favour of natural hair is
become fragile and break easily. The trend towards
supported by new research, which shows relaxers
more natural African hair styles has sparked
are on a decline, while the use of shampoos,
a new direction in product development, with
conditioners and styling agents is increasing. Low-
claims ranging from anti-frizz and anti-shrinkage to
poo cleansers, which do not contain surfactants
edge control.
(or ‘poo’), offer mild cleansing with conditioning
Formulation design for darker skins can also
and care benefits. Styling aids have received a
be challenging. Some foundations can result in a
significant boost in the past few years, particularly
greyish skin finish while an uneven skin tone can
those with essential properties such as anti-frizz, curl
make it difficult to find one foundation that matches
definition and anti-shrinkage. Edge control products
multicultural consumers’ needs.
are also very popular for taming new hair (the ‘fly-
A market with unique demands
aways’ at the hairline) and keeping braids, twists and cornrows in shape.
The rise in demand for customised products for Ethnic consumers is seeing an expansion of product
Multifunctional wax ingredient Myrica Fruit Wax fits perfectly into the Ethnic beauty concept as it boosts the performance of low-poo
Type 5 Ethnic hair towel-dried and left to air-dry
products and gives edge control formulations the ideal hardness. When used in oil control formulations, it supports a dry and velvet feel and a silky matte effect. It is a unique wax because it has no double bonds; it is a naturally ‘hydrogenated’ oil with a low melting point of 45 to 55°C yet has extraordinary hardness. This combination of properties gives Myrica Fruit Wax exceptionally good spreadability in cosmetics formulations. It reduces the stickiness Edge cream
24
Low-poo
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Untreated
of emulsions and cream gels, gives hair styling products excellent holding properties, and when
Ethnic Care Graph 1: Reduction of hair shrinkage
used in hair conditioners it improves ease of combing. Ethnic hair can be difficult to style or shape. Another common issue is hair shrinkage, which refers to the hair getting shorter after drying. The anti-shrinkage performance of Myrica Fruit Wax has been tested on Type 5 hair tresses. Hair classified from Type 1 to 4 is straighter with the increase in number from Type 5 to 8 assigned to more tightly coiled hair. Type 5 represents chemically treated, mainly African hair. Yet it is very difficult to source virgin Type 5 for testing purposes. To test the efficacy of Myrica Fruit Wax on Ethnic hair, KahlWax, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, formulated a lowpoo conditioner with five percent of the active ingredient and an edge control cream with seven percent. Test protocol saw the company rinse
DID YOU KNOW?
the strands were measured with a
South Africa represents the biggest beauty market within the sub-Saharan African region. It is valued at US$3.72 billion and grew by 5.3 percent in 2016. Source: Roland Berger Strategy
untreated hair tresses with a 15 percent SLES solution. After washing, hair strands with
ruler to determine their length in centimetres. The diameter was also determined using a string, and the hair was left to air-dry. After 24 hours, the measurements were repeated. The results depicted in Graph 1 show the hair treated with edge cream had
the lowest shrinkage. ·
a thickness of 3cm x 4cm were divided. Untreated hair strands were also used as a control. The aforementioned hair care products were applied on the different wet strands. Shortly after application
KahlWax – www.kahlwax.de Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
®
THINK SKIN CARE? THINK KAHLWAX. KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for skin care products such as creams, emulsions or sunscreens. Re-envision your skin care formulations – with solutions and services that meet your requirements exactly and with ingredients that naturally fulfill consumer wishes, such as super-soft skin and a unique skin feel. KahlWax. The ingredients for care. www.kahlwax.com
sfc-info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za
2017-03 Ad_P&C Mai_KahlWax.indd 1
16.03.17 09:40
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
25
Ethnic Care
A beautiful opportunity for localisation times to supply local customers with imported
product also resulted in ongoing shortages in the
By localising the production of hair care products that were initially imported from the US, J Strickland Africa is set to have a positive impact on economic development and job creation in South Africa. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review shares the story behind the launch of this modern manufacturing facility.
L
marketplace. ‘At times, the parent company took three to four weeks to produce stock for South Africa. The shipping lead times were long too, ranging from eight and 12 weeks,’ Norman explains. These challenges presented Norman and her team with an ideal opportunity to establish a local manufacturing operation, with the vision of producing the parent company’s Ethnic hair care products under license. To turn her dream into a reality, Norman first approached the Trade and Investment Kwazulu-
ocated in Westmead, Pinetown, in KwaZulu-Natal, J Strickland
Natal (TIKZN), which then referred her to the Industrial
Africa is the brainchild of CEO, Wendy Norman. Before the
Development Corporation (IDC). She presented a solid
manufacturing facility was established, Norman imported
business case, showing the strong potential of the
J Strickland & Co’s Ethnic hair care products, and for the
company to become a market leader throughout the
past 20 years, she created a business selling them countywide and
African continent with its high-quality products for Ethnic
into Africa.
hair and beauty care. The funding to set up the facility
Over time, fluctuations in the rand/dollar exchange rate negatively impacted the business in terms of cash flow and margins. Long lead
was approved by the IDC at the beginning of 2015 and manufacturing commenced on 1 September 2016.
THE LIFE OF J STRICKLAND AFRICA 1994
Unrefined Shea Butter First pressed Castor oil Organic Coconut and Grapeseed oil Organic Argan oil Avocado oil and Butter African Black soap Natural Ecocert Surfactants Bentonite
Wendy Norman is appointed as an agent for J Strickland & Co USA to sell its various brand of Ethnic hair care products in South Africa.
2014 Norman approaches TIKZN for funding to set up a manufacturing plant. TIKZN refers her to the IDC, and funding is approved at the beginning of 2015.
September 2015 Manufacturing equipment is installed and commissioned at J Strickland Africa.
1 September 2016 J Strickland Africa officially starts to produce the Sulfur 8 hair and scalp conditioner, and braid spray, as well as the Blue Magic range of products.
26
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
2012 Anderson Engineering is approached to provide a budget quotation on a locally manufactured hair care processing plant.
July 2015 The construction and installation project receives authorisation.
Mid-2016 Production processes are established using the latest technology in the manufacture of cosmetics and hair care products.
Ethnic Care The raw material tank farm at Strickland House
DID YOU KNOW?
BACKROW: Sadha Naidoo, JSA operations manager; Warren Perry, JSA finance and marketing manager; and Donny Pethan general manager: TIKZN business retention and expansion FRONTROW: Bob Charlton, JSA administrative manager; Analeah Royeppen, TIKZN investment promotion administrator; Wendy Norman, JSA CEO; Sihle Ngcamu, TIKZN executive manager: investment promotion; Lingiwe Nyamande, TIKZN CFO; and Angel Sibisi, TIKZN communications officer
28
Quality brands that meet local needs The Sulfur 8 and Blue Magic Ethnic hair care ranges – the first to be produced locally – have been made to such a high
Wendy Norman first began her career in the cosmetics industry in 1976, working as an in-store consultant brands in the market, which at Innoxa in Zimbabwe. She has over sets J Strickland Africa apart 23 years of sales and marketing from its competitors. This experience in cosmetics and beauty is supported by our worldcare, and runs her company with extreme passion and a high class manufacturing facility, level of commitment. which uses the latest industry
standard that J Strickland Africa has received approval to expand on the products it produces under license. ‘J Strickland hair care products are highly
technology to produce products of the highest quality.’ The Sulfur 8 hair and scalp conditioner, and the braid spray moisturise and soften hair and
recognised in South and southern Africa,’
scalp, offering relief from a dry itchy scalp
Naidoo explains. ‘It is the strength of these
associated with dandruff. These products also
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Ethnic Care
Our world-class manufacturing facility uses the latest industry technology beautify the hair. The Blue Magic range of products promises to condition and control hair in all kinds of weather. This range also prevents dry, dull hair and flaky itchy scalp, while helping to reduce breakage. Sadha Naidoo, operations manager at J Strickland Africa adds: ‘Manufacturing the products locally allows for better stock control and the ability to produce to order, which
compounding facility to the filling line, making it a
improves cash flow. This also increases stock
proudly South African world-class facility.
availability in the market as opposed to importing
Petroleum jelly processing plant
Anderson Engineering was one of the industry
to sell. Now we also have the fl exibility to change
experts identifi ed by the IDC to help set up the
seamlessly from one product line to another as the
manufacturing plant. The company was also linked
demand changes.’
with Filtech Automation, which trained staff on how to use the filling machines at a practical level. They
Benefi ts beyond good hair Strickland House – the name of the local factory – is
also received extensive training from Science Tech. J Strickland Africa provides employment for 26
a 2 400m2 plant equipped with 100 percent locally
people from Westmead and surrounding areas
made equipment. Nothing was imported, from the
such as Pinetown, Kwa Santi, Mayville, Chatsworth
Agents for
R O BE R T ET South Africa
the perfect fragrance and flavour for every product
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
29
Ethnic Care
and Claremont. All staff are empowered to attain selfgrowth and develop their true potential. The positive spinoff
HOW THE TURNKEY FACILITY WAS ESTABLISHED
is a team of individuals that are passionate about the company and the role they play in providing black women with quality and affordable Ethnic hair care products. The company also creates self-employment opportunities for independent agents. It does
ANDERSON ENGINEERING HAS a wealth of
equipment together with delivery, installation
this by empowering, educating and training
experience in the design and manufacture
and commissioning took another six months.
consumers on how to establish businesses,
The following equipment was produced by
such as hair salons, spaza shops and small
of processing equipment, especially in stainless steel. It was a perfect company
Anderson Engineering in South Africa as part
retail outlets using the products produced by
for J Strickland Africa to partner with in
of the J Strickland Africa project:
J Strickland Africa.
establishing the Durban-based hair care
• an Anderson 3 000ℓ Contramix
manufacturing plant.
• a premix vessel
A vision for great growth
• a water-based product manufacturing vessel
With a client base of over 1 500 customers in South
approached in 2012 to provide a budget
• three storage tanks, each measuring 6 000ℓ
and southern Africa, the company has its sight set
forecast and quotation for the project. This
• two bulk petroleum jelly storage tanks, each
on expanding over the next few years.
Anderson Engineering was first
was used as the basis for justifying a new
measuring 30 000ℓ
‘We are in the process of exploring new
business case in which Ethnic hair care
• a chilling plant
territories, which present new opportunities for
products would be manufactured locally
• a hot water generator.
the business,’ Naidoo explains. ‘We are aware
under license.
The J Strickland Africa plant boasts a compact
that the business landscape is forever changing
design and is easy to clean. It also has the
and for J Strickland Africa to be responsive, the
to the IDC to obtain business funding as well
capacity to produce large volumes, which is
company needs to be positioned accordingly.
as establishing the framework for the royalty
important for the company’s growth potential.
Our immediate goal is to improve market share by
What then followed was the application
agreement with the parent company in Memphis, USA.
‘Since our first run, we’ve been impressed with the manufacturing speed, which
making our products more accessible.’ The company’s plan is to establish a wider
is excellent for output. It also helps us
distribution network throughout the African
undertaken on the J Strickland & Co
use electricity and other resources more
continent. This will be achieved by controlling
processing plant in Memphis. Sufficient
efficiently,’ comments Naidoo. ‘Anderson
its product source via in-house manufacturing
processing knowledge was extracted to design
Engineering’s thorough understanding of
in KwaZulu-Natal and taking responsibility for
the plant required for J Strickland Africa,
the process at project outset meant we were
setting up distribution channels with a vertically
and Anderson Engineering went on to create
able to eliminate all the slack and excess
integrated marketing and sales operation.
and implement several improvements to the
processes. This not only saved money but also
processes used within the Memphis plant.
time and set up costs.’
During 2014, an in-house study was
These were specifically to ensure consistent
Anderson Engineering is ISO 9001 certified,
quality while automating procedures to
and continuously improves the design and
manufacture the hair care products.
overall efficiencies of its equipment. The
The project authorisation was received in July 2015, and the manufacture of the plant
positive spinoff is lower maintenance costs for its customers.
Ultimately, J Strickland Africa has plans to become a market leader throughout the African continent with its high-quality products for the African Ethnic hair and beauty care market. ·
J Strickland Africa – www.jstricklandafrica.com
Congratulations J Strickland Africa on your new manufacturing facility
Our company specializes in the supply of personalized top quality Perfume Oils & Fragrance Compounds, butter and sweet flavours for various industry sectors at competitive prices. We have an extensive library of over 3000 different fragrances which is updated regularly. We are therefore able to supply any fragrance required to any specifications. Contact us for a personal consultation. (011) 466 3055 sales@cosmaperfumes.com
30
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Ethnic Care
Beauty of
versatility
Croda South Africa’s personal care technical team is now ideally equipped to support product claims for the African skin and hair care markets. The company recently installed state-of-the-art equipment to assess hair breakage and has a new salon for panel testing.
I
t’s been 18 months since Croda South
After a week of interviewing consumers
Africa officially opened its Centre of
both with natural and with relaxed hair,
Excellence. Since the original opening,
the company now has a solid base to
the company has continued to invest in
work from and panel tests are already
the centre. ‘Most consumers desire strong, healthy
ABOVE The new hair salon within Croda South Africa’s Centre of Excellence BELOW Croda South Africa’s new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester
underway. The testing is taking place within the newest area at the Centre of
hair that is full of shine. Regardless of this
Excllence – the hair salon. These studies
desire, consumers do not want to give up
will involve African consumers to ensure
damaging regimes such as relaxing and
relevant data is generated, which the
styling. Constant grooming and combing
company’s local customers can then
can also damage the hair cuticle. We were
access for new product development.
looking for a way to not only measure the tensile properties of hair, but also analyse
A closer look at the facility
hair as it degrades over its lifetime,’ says
The hair salon is located adjacent to the
cycles required for failure (also known
Croda South Africa’s technical manager,
efficacy laboratory, which is equipped
as ‘fatigue testing’) is evaluated at
Christien Gordon.
with temperature and humidity controlled
different humidities.
climatic chambers for hair testing. The
Understanding local consumers’ needs
salon facility will focus primarily on
Skin and sun care
supporting claims for Type VI to VIII Black
The local team also has expertise in
To further identify the key hair care
African hair. All studies will be conducted
formulation and claim substantiation
needs of African consumers, the
by trained hairdressers, led by Croda’s
for skin and sun care applications.
company’s marketing team recently
application scientists.
Testing protocols are conducted using
undertook extensive studies on consumer
A new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester has been
state-of-the-art equipment to generate
installed in the Centre of Excellence to
consumer-appealing claims such
measure the tensile (strength) properties
as moisturisation, oil control, barrier
studies was to confirm our observations
of hair fibres at different humidities. The
repair, barrier integrity/disruption,
of the African hair care market, to identify
Dia-Stron Cyclic Tester is designed to
skin flaking/dryness, shine reduction,
gaps and use the information gathered as
simulate the repeated tensile
a basis for testing the right products on the
stress hair fibres experience
right hair types,’ adds Croda South Africa’s
during brushing and
marketing manager, Chantel McCallum.
combing. A repeated force
focus groups. ‘The main reason for our focus group
is applied to single hair Croda South Africa’s personal care team
fibres and the number of
counter-irritancy, and even skin
DID YOU KNOW?
tone. All testing is carried out in a humidity and temperature controlled
Aeysha Jakoet and Dineo room to remove any Modisaesi from Croda South environmental influences Africa recently successfully on product efficacy. completed the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Croda also offers expertise Science. in formulating with its extensive portfolio of metal oxides. Sun care studies are conducted using the Labsphere UV-2000S and Suntest CPS+ for in vitro SPF measurements. ·
Croda South Africa – www.croda.com
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
31
Ethnic Care
Lighter, brighter, safer
Addressing the primary skin care need of African consumers, CJP Chemicals and its international principal, Seppic, consulted with Dermscan to test Sepiwhite MSH on Ethnic skin. The results are encouraging.
A
study by the University of Cape Town
means risk-free. The dangers associated with the use of some
suggests that one in three women in South
of these creams include leukaemia and cancer of the liver and
Africa bleaches her skin. In Nigeria, the
kidneys. Another severe skin condition linked to these products
consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind set appears fixated on fair
is ochronosis. A form of hyper-pigmentation, ochronosis causes
skin. This has resulted in the ongoing popularity of hydroquinone-based skin lightening creams. Currently the Nigerian FDA permits
the skin to turn a dark purple shade. This is according to senior researcher at the University of Cape Town, Dr Lester Davids. Other side effects include increased exposure to UV radiation;
two percent hydroquinone in skin care
sensitivity to sunlight; increased risk of hyper-pigmentation;
formulations, yet manufacturers are known
contact dermatitis and skin irritation; as well as thick, leathery,
to include anything in excess of five percent.
and bumpy skin.
There are high-end lightening products
32
and treatments that are believed to be
The global desire for beautiful skin
safer than the creams sold on the informal
Having a luminous and bright skin is a universal need that
market, yet doctors say they are by no
concerns consumers of all ages and skin types. Caucasian
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Ethnic Care
Sepiwhite MSH has previously been
consumers want healthy glowing skin.
role in binding to MC1R receptors,
Asians look for a transparent tone
tested on Caucasian and Asian skins. In
while Ethnic consumers want to correct
an effort to meet the needs of the African
pigmentation disorders and dark spots.
market, through extensive testing, Seppic
involvement of α-MSH in the regulation
presents new data specific to Ethnic skin
of melanogenesis, Seppic’s R&D team
types IV and V.
developed Sepiwhite MSH – an antagonist of
Black African or dark skins, in reaction to biological and external stresses such as
inhibiting melanogenesis. In view of these findings regarding the
α-MSH – which inhibits all of the key steps in
acne, eczema, sun exposure, mosquito bites
Driven by in depth research
the α-MSH-induced melanogenic cascade.
Through its major skin lightening
The steps leading to melanin synthesis,
is pronounced, particularly in reducing
research programme, Seppic has
inhibited by Sepiwhite MSH, include:
hyper-pigmentation without compromising
focused its attention on the effects of
• an affinity for the MC1R
the skin. In response to this need, the
a precursor molecule and major factor
cosmetics industry has worked tirelessly to
in the regulation of skin pigmentation
• an inhibition of adenylate cyclase
develop products combining efficacy and
melanotropin, called alpha-MSH. This
• the reduction of intracellular cAMP content
skin compatibility.
molecule links the MCR-1 receptor,
• an inhibition of protein kinase A
activates the melagonesis cascade
• an inhibition of melanogenesis.
a molecule derived from natural
and controls tyrosinase activity, melanin
With its lipoamino acid form, as a biovector
resources, which is effective on all skin
(eumalanin and phaeomelanin) synthesis
of phenylalanine, Sepiwhite MSH has
types and perfectly well tolerated.
and melanosome transfer.
remarkable skin bioaffinity. It is well-tolerated
and scars, generally produce melanin. The challenge to unify and clarify skin
One example is Sepiwhite MSH,
This active ingredient is recognised
melanotropin receptor
at the suggested inclusion levels.
These MC1R receptors, activated by
among international brand owners
alpha-MSH and its analogues, are inhibited
and manufacturers for its lightening
by natural antagonists present in the skin,
format, which is easy to formulate with and
performance and is used in many
called agouti-related proteins (AGRPs).
has a fully defined structure. End products
formulations for brightening and
These proteins have a phenylalanine in
containing Sepiwhite MSH are stable, and
lightening products. Lightening
a key position, which plays an essential Action on Melanocytes
Graph 1: The efficacy of various market leading lightening ingredients in decreasing melanogenesis
Basal
α-MSH induced
The active is sold in a white powder
either white or colourless.
Table 1: In vivo test results for Sepiwhite MSH on black African and Indian skin types IV and V
Lighter age spots (ì ITA°)
ì Skin luminosity (L*)
UVB induced
% increase of ITA°/DO
300 SEPIWHITE MSH
% increase of L*/DO
3 ARBUTIN
2
200 + 2 %**
J
1 KOJIC ACID
MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE
HYDROQUINONE
0 **p<0.001
+ 263 %*
+ 3 %** + 195 %*
+ 2 %**
J
100%
100%
D7
D14
+ 150 %*
J
100%
100
0 D21
J
100%
D7
J
100%
D14
J
100%
D21
Legend: L*: skin luminosity ITA°: individual typology angle / ì lightening effect a* : erythema parameter J: volunteers with positive effects
SUPPLIER OF SPECIALISED INGREDIENTS FOR ETHNIC CARE PRODUCTS.
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
33
Ethnic Care Hervé Geoffroy and Vijay Badur
More effective than market references The lightening activity of Sepiwhite MSH has been proven in the following
LOCALLY RELEVANT
GLOBAL INNOVATION
methodologies: reconstructed pigmented epidermis phototype V (ex vivo) and
IN FEBRUARY, CJP Chemicals welcomed Hervé
melanocytes cells cultures (in vitro).
Geoffroy, Seppic’s beauty care business unit sales
MSH was first developed 10 years
In comparison to the most common
SepiWhite
director EMEA zone, and Vijay Badur, Seppic’s
ago to address the needs of Asian skin Types 3 and
lightening active ingredients used on
beauty care business unit zone manager MEA,
4. To increase its application, the company recently
the market, such as arbutine, kojic acid,
to South Africa. Pharmaceutical
tested the active on Types 4 to 6 in Mauritius.
VCPMG and hydroquinone, the efficacy
Review spoke to Geoffroy and Badur about the
of Sepiwhite MSH has been proven on B16
company’s move to gain locally relevant data for
this active ingredient acts fast, meeting African
melanocytes cultured under three types
SepiWhite MSH.
consumers’ immediate needs for even tone skin.
of conditions. These include: 1. spontaneous lightening action on melanocytes 2. lightening action on melanocytes cultivated with α-MSH 3. lightening action on melanocytes
Cosmetic
‘Africa is a growing market for Seppic,’ says
With proven efficacy on Ethnic skin, Badur says
By delivering verified claims and providing value
Geoffroy. ‘Through our understanding of local
through the application laboratory located at CJP
needs and from watching global trends, we realise
Chemicals head office in Johannesburg, Seppic
customers’ challenges in South Africa and want
is positioning itself as a key partner in developing
to address them with formulations that meet
cosmetics for African markets. The company is an
consumers’ needs.’
international specialist in skin and beauty care.
following UVB irradiation. In these three types of tests, the lightening The evaluation criteria was based on
activity was determined by measuring
Sepiwhite MSH were evaluated over
melanin content. The results are shown
84 days. Results showed lighter areas
the following Chromameter parameters:
in Graph 1, underlining that Sepiwhite
of hyper pigmentation (>80 percent)
L; a; b; ITA at DO; D7; D14; and D21. The
MSH is more efficient than other market
after 56 and 84 days. Significantly
results are revealed in Table 1.
leading lightening ingredients, without
lightened skin was experienced among
any toxic effect.
66 percent of the volunteers, while a
is a super-effective molecule. Through
According to Seppic, Sepiwhite MSH
reduction of melanin pigments located
a novel and demonstrated mode of
Quadruple in vivo tests
in corneocytes (D-Squame) was
action, the active ingredient lights up the
To demonstrate the universal benefits of
also noted.
complexion while limiting pigmentation-
Sepiwhite MSH, the active ingredient has
The most recent in vivo test for
related concerns. After treatment, the
been tested on three different skin types
Sepiwhite MSH has been conducted on
complexion appears more uniform and
with various positive results.
black African and Indian skin types IV
age spots disappear. Long-term results
and V. The panel consisted of 22 female
(56 days) and a faster lightening process
with UV tanned skin, using a cream
volunteers (11 Indians and 11 Africans)
have also been underlined when the
with two percent Sepiwhite MSH and
with an average age of 34 years old.
active is used in combination with
evaluated over 49 days, results showed an
The formulation tested was also based
an AHA. •
increase in the individual typology angle/
on two percent Sepiwhite MSH in
lightening effect among 57 percent of
combination with three percent lactic
the volunteers.
acid and two percent salicylic acid (pH
On a panel of 14 Caucasian volunteers
On 30 Asian volunteers with age spots, the effects of a cream with two percent
34
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
4). The product was applied twice daily on the forearm over a period of 21 days.
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com
Ethnic Care
Curly by nature Ingredients that help strengthen hair and prevent breakage are a must for Ethnic hair products. Botanichem distributes several innovative solutions to meet the needs of Type 4 hair.
E
are embracing their natural
Feeding hair with Omegas
hair, hair straightening remains
Cobiosa, represented
ven though Ethnic consumers
a massive part of the market for
locally by Botanichem,
both Ethnic and Caucasian hair types.
produces Trichomega
This trend presents an interesting set of
botanical omega acids,
opportunities and challenges for suppliers
which are ideal for split ends
DID YOU KNOW?
The value of the wet hair products sold in South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon currently exceeds R12 billion with South Africa’s market for wet and dry hair care believed to be worth an estimated R4.5 billion. Source:
increase manageability of unruly hair. ‘Chemical straightening is still big business but the
Euromonitor International
long-term damage is severe. Incorporating a naturally derived
of ingredients, brands and manufacturers
and broken hairs. The active
as the products required for natural Ethnic
ingredient is extracted from the Sacha
ingredient such as Phytenso into an Ethnic
hair care differ from those used on hair
Inchi nut, which grows on trees in the
hair care product is ideal as it improves
extensions, weaves and straightened hair.
Amazon. It helps restore hair’s lipid layer,
day-to-day manageability while reducing
which is the only continuous structure
the need for chemical processes,’
and general brittleness are major
that can be found on hair, increasing its
she explains.
problems for Ethnic hair,’ explains Robyn
resistance to breakage and split ends. It
‘It is common knowledge that breakage
Dandruff and itchy scalp are also key
Brown, managing member of Botanichem.
also enhances hair’s flexibility, preventing it
hair care concerns of Ethnic consumers.
‘This is because the hair shaft is highly
from snapping.
Often, they are the result of braids, extensions and wigs and can be difficult
elliptical with a twisted configuration and
Trichomega is made up of 48 percent
a thin diameter. There are also intermittent
Omega 3, 37 percent Omega 6 and eight
to address because conventional anti-
variations in diameter as the twisting
percent Omega 9. By feeding the follicles,
dandruff applications can be too harsh for
occurs, which causes recurrent weakening
the Omega 3 promotes faster growth and
sensitive scalps. Cobiosa’s hair dandruff
along each hair and makes it prone
healthier hair.
reducer is an ideal alternative; this glycolic solution has anti-microbial and anti-irritant
to breakage.’
Fighting frizz naturally
properties to help reduce and control
strands wrap around each other resulting
In collaboration with Unicare, Botanichem
dandruff and scalp irritations. ·
in tangles. De-tangling this also causes
also supplies Phytenso, which is produced
further damage as pulling and tugging
by IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. This natural
can lead to hair follicle stress and traction
hair straightener protects and conditions
hair loss.
hair while fighting frizz. It also helps to
Due to the curly nature of Ethnic hair, the
Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Unicare – www.unichem.co.za
100 % pure organic
Moringa Oil
M
oringa is known as the ‘Miracle Tree’ due to its impressive range of uses. Moringa oil contains important minerals and is an excellent source of protein, vitamins, amino acids and fatty acids (Omega 6 & 9). Botanica’s Moringa trees grow in Limpopo and the oil is produced on site. Moringa oil has well-known cosmetic value and is widely used in hair care formulations.
Contact us T: +27 71 925 5870 E: info@timola.co.za W: www.timola.co.za
Moisturises the scalp
Strengthens hair
Promotes hair growth
Possible applications: Shampoo, hair conditioning, scalp moisturising & beard oil.
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
35
Aerosols
Puregas announces expansion plans The company is expanding its storage capacity and upgrading its processes and plant safety measures. These developments will ensure continuity of supply and enhanced product quality to meet customers’ needs. By Abby Vorster
T
he South African aerosols
storage tank, which is scheduled to
industry has grown
be commissioned during the fourth
consistently over the past
quarter of 2017.’
few years, which has
The tank is being produced locally
resulted in an increase in demand
by Sikelela Steel – an engineering
for propellant from Puregas. While
company that specialises in
the company’s volumes continue
manufacturing quality pressure
to grow, unfortunately the local
vessels for gas storage.
supply of gas has declined or result, Puregas has been importing
At the forefront of quality and safety
product by bulk ship to ensure
Along with customer service,
supply interruptions do not affect its
safety-centric measures are
business or that of its customers. This
central to Puregas’ success. The
has led to the need for a new on-site
company’s technical manager,
at best remained constant. As a
storage tank, which will act as a stock buffer when supply interruptions occur. ‘Customer service is core to our philosophy,’ says Philip Cloete, MD of Puregas. ‘Ensuring continuity of supply is central to this,
The new tank has the capacity to store 500 000ℓ of propellant
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
says that the project has received the necessary approvals and all safety and environmental aspects of the installation will be overseen by Puregas’ SHEQ manager, Thomas Xaba.
which is why we are embarking on
‘The new tank has the capacity
a project to install a new 500m3 gas
to store 500 000ℓ of propellant, and
Part of the propellant storage facility at Puregas
36
Grant Gascoigne
Aerosols
New GM for Puregas At the end of January, Puregas welcomed its new GM of sales and operations. Jaco Wiese has a chemical engineering background and vast experience in the gas sector. His appointment forms part of the company’s succession plan with Duncan Puregas also imports propellant by bulk ship
Bell having recently retired. In his new role, Wiese will continue to build the company’s core focus of customer service and the solid relationships that already exist with its
will be the largest tank situated on the
on-site gas detection and expand
propellant customers. ‘Everyone talks of customer
Puregas site,’ Gascoigne explains. ‘In
on its process flexibility to shorten the
centricity, but at Puregas, the team lives by this,’ he
terms of the physical installation, the
processing time to attain the refined
explains. ‘It’s refreshing to see this ethos engrained in
tank will be mounded above ground,
finished product. This is particularly
everything we do.’
resulting in reduced fire water usage
important in the treatment of
and minimal environmental impact.
imported propellant.
Wiese is a practical person who enjoys tech gadgets and
These developments are set to
tinkering in his spare time. His
positions for the offloading of road
position Puregas as a supplier of
hands-on approach and love for
and rail tankers, and the loading of
choice to the personal care, home
technology will stand in good
road tankers. We believe this is a first
care and wider aerosol industry. ·
stead to drive efficiencies
Loading arms will also be fitted at three
within Puregas while
for independent gas companies in South Africa.’ The expansion project will also see Puregas increase its amount of
Puregas – www.puregas.co.za Sikelela Steel – www.sikelelasteel.co.za
enhancing its already strong focus on customer service.
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
37
Aerosols
Quality propellant for cosmetics Afrox has invested over R10 million in upgrades to its special gases propellant plant located in Roodekop, Germiston. The improvements effectively position the company as a well-established supplier to South Africa’s FMCG personal care market.
Ensuring continuous supply Part of the upgrades also included the commissioning of strategic storage tanks in the Gauteng region. This will allow Afrox to have continuous supply in the event of an unplanned shutdown by suppliers. ‘We want our customers to have peace of mind, and focus on their core business whilst we, as the supplier of choice, ensure consistent supply,’ adds Baird. ‘As part
Afrox Propellant road tanker filling bay
of the global Linde Group, we can leverage off the Linde supply chain, importing product at lower rates and have assured fl exibility. In 2016, we successfully imported over 750t of product, thus we had full supply to all our contracted customers with no product rationing or short supply.’
Quality, safety and value add The installation of state-of-the-art laboratory equipment was also included in the upgrades
DID YOU KNOW?
to the propellant plant. This enables Afrox to provide accurate and live certificates of analysis with each
load that leaves the company’s Afrox is celebrating its 90 site. The system offers a wide anniversary this year. Schalk Venter, Afrox’s MD, says the company’s range of components analysed longevity is a credit to the generations in a short space of time, from of Afrox people who built it to survive percentage concentrations to and prosper in a competitive part per billion concentrations. world. Afrox was founded in The propellants for cosmetics 1927, and listed on the and personal care applications JSE in 1963.
Dedicated road tankers for propellant deliveries
th
present a unique challenge as some of the components that can be harmful elute close to the background. Good separation is of the utmost importance to quantify these components, ensuring the end customer can use Afrox’s cosmetics grade propellants with total confidence. ‘Afrox operates strict policies regarding product stewardship and the responsible and ethical management of health, safety and the environmental aspects of a product,’ she
Afrox has a lot more to offer than just quality gas
P
comments. ‘We can assist our customers to ersonal care propellant is bound by stringent quality standards. It is also crucial that propellant gas is free from odours and impurities. As part of the
upgrades at the production facility, Afrox has ensured the company meets these standards. Nadine Baird, product manager: chemicals at Afrox, explains: ‘One of our guiding principles is the supply of quality product. We source and supply product to the highest standards and our filtration system allows us to remove sulphurs, dienes and moisture.’
38
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
identify product risks and hazards and help identify mitigation measures for these risks. We can also perform on site safety audits if the customer requires this assistance.’ The future of propellants is very exciting. Baird says Afrox has a lot more to offer than just quality gas. ‘We have technical expertise, product supply security, a world-class telemetry system that allows remote monitoring of tanks and the flexibility to meet our customer’s needs.’ ·
Afrox – www.afrox.co.za
Launched a new product in 2016/17?
ENTRIES NOW OPEN
Contact Natalie Da Silva: natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281
Pharmaceutical Focus//Technology
The right shot
in direct compression
I
n billiards, a discreet balance of resilient
lactose and MCC. It shows a remarkable
helps to stabilise content uniformity trough
and inelastic collision is needed
compaction profile, even in high
adhesion of active ingredients and is most
to pocket the opponent’s balls. A
dosage formulations.
appreciated in highly effective, low dosage formulations, such as oral contraceptives.
similar principle is important in the
solid bodies such as tablets. This plastically
Benefits and areas of application
rheological properties of powder blends
deforms particles in combination with
Meggle produces this filler-binder, which
while serving as a means for trouble-
fractionating while brittle materials tend to
is available in South Africa from Amchem.
shooting in poorly flowing preparations,
develop outperforming synergies.
As a highly renowned enterprise, Meggle
including micronised active ingredients.
transformation of powders into coherent
MicroceLac 100 is one such synergistic,
enjoys an excellent reputation and
MicroceLac 100 can improve the
MicroceLac 100 is best suited for use
well-balanced material. It is also known
its excipients are used in more than
in oblong and small tablets. A letter of
as a co-processed excipient consisting of
100 countries.
authorisation for Drug Master File type IV
75 percent alpha-lactose-monohydrate
Typical features of MicroceLac 100
and 25 percent microcrystalline cellulose
include its excellent weight consistency
(MCC). MicroceLac 100 is manufactured
at various compaction speeds and a low
by spray-drying and clearly outperforms
aggregation tendency. It can be used for
the physical admixture regarding
all direct compression formulations from low
constant hardness through a fixed ratio of
to high dosage at optimum output. It also
and a Meggle monograph are available on request. ·
Amchem – www.amchem.co.za Meggle – www.meggle-pharma.com
Thureya Sarlie, Commercial Contact Mobile +27 (0)83 457 6575 Tel +27 (0)11 922 1639 Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za www.chemsystems.co.za
Chemsystems
40
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
MicroceLac® 100. Precise, firm, calculable. From Meggle.
GMP/GDP certified
With MicroceLac® 100, you can generate accurate financial calculations for production of large tablet quantities. The benefits speak for themselves. And for MicroceLac® 100:
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AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa www.amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082
HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: www.meggle-pharma.com service.pharma@meggle.de Phone +49 8071 73 476
Pharmaceutical Focus//Technology
Accelerating
medicine development
L
certainty
Compact yet powerful
programme
The component is characterised by a
designed to
smaller footprint because it does not require
help industrial
physical hardware controllers or input/
companies
output (I/O) cards. Automation strategies
achieve top
and I/O processing are all executed in a
performance.
compact workstation. DeltaV Discovery
It is licensed as
interfaces to lab-scale equipment via
a workstation-
multiple Ethernet protocols including OPC,
based solution for ife sciences enterprises must rapidly bring safe, cost-effective drugs
laboratory applications.
Modbus/TCP, and Ethernet/IP. Even with the smaller size, it delivers
‘Companies must find ways to scale up
powerful capabilities, including batch
and therapies to patients. Emerson
to commercial operations more efficiently
management and integrated historians,
delivers automation strategies that
and reduce the time-consuming process
not commonly found in a laboratory
of technology transfer. This is because it
automation platform.
support this need for rapid innovation. Its DeltaV Discovery solution speeds up
costs around US$2.6 billion to develop a
DeltaV Discovery facilitates data integrity,
the time to market for pharmaceutical
commercially viable drug over of 10 years
21 CFR part 11, and ISA-88 standards for
and biotech operations by simplifying the
or more,’ says John Nita, vice president
batch execution and history collection. It
technology transfer from research and
of life sciences at Emerson Automation
also delivers alarms, events, and advanced
discovery to production. It enables more
Solutions. ‘The component is vital in helping
batch data integration to the user in a
efficient development activity and accurate
our life sciences customers ensure work
single workstation, ensuring the automation
technology transfer from the laboratory
done in the research stage translates into a
and compliance capabilities required in
through to production-scale operations.
successfully operating production facility.’
commercial manufacturing are replicated
DeltaV Discovery is convenient for
Lab scale automation
research laboratories where a smaller
DeltaV Discovery is a technology
footprint and easy automation integration
component of Emerson’s operational
are important.
in the lab. ·
Emerson – www.emerson.com
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We are Sartorius in South Africa Tel 011 315 5444 | sales@biotechsolutions.co.za www.biotechsolutions.co.za
42
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
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MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE. Tel. +27 (0)11 958 0412 Mobile +27 (0) 82 460 2766
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Pharmaceutical Focus//Technology
Taking mid-market companies to the cloud
The move to the cloud is inevitable for all industries. At Avaya, the company’s goal is to ensure that mid-market companies don’t get left behind. Danny Drew, Avaya’s MD for South Africa explains its relevance. or out decision; it can be a continuum. In the communications and collaboration space, we are seeing strong interest in hybrid deployments with companies looking to maintain their legacy investment while considering moving new applications such as voice, video, and the contact centre into the cloud. For our channel partners,
DID YOU KNOW?
L
et’s be honest, being in the middle
yet mid-market
isn’t always seen as a good thing.
companies may
The ‘middle of the road’ isn’t an
not have as much
especially flattering description, while
flexibility and agility
being ‘piggy in the middle’ isn’t a desirable
to adapt. Still, as cloud
adoption continues to grow
market, we can find middle ground.
in South Africa, small and mid-sized
According to the Banking Association
clear opportunity if
they can deliver A vast amount of data is involved in the R&D process in pharmaceutical the same rich manufacturing. To better manage this data, a communications blog post by Manufacturing Matters says that experience in a cloud solution can standardise the flow of whatever way information and allows for the seamless sharing their end-user lab, imagery and statistical analysis information with any number of partners, anywhere in the customers want to world. With cloud technology, you have a deploy them – be truly flexible collaboration platform that on-premises, that speeds up the entire product hybrid cloud or development process.
position. But when it comes to the mid-
South Africa, small and medium-sized
this means there is a
fully hosted.
With Avaya IP Office, we offer a solution that can fit the needs of 98
companies will have to consider it at
percent of all businesses out there, and
some point.
we can offer it in on-premises, in hybrid cloud, or pure cloud models. This means
enterprises account for about a third of the
To give an example, pharmaceutical
country’s GDP and provide employment to
manufacturers globally are increasingly
businesses can move to the cloud at
approximately 60 percent of the labour force.
looking at cloud-based solutions, with mid-
their own pace and path, adding new
That sort of performance should make
sized pharma companies finding that the
features and capabilities as they become
the mid-market attractive to IT vendors, with
cloud delivers the on-demand scalability
needed, or while leveraging their
plenty of offerings packaged to the sector’s
and agility they need to compete with
existing investments. ·
needs. Unfortunately, all too often, we find
bigger, better-funded organisations. For
that mid-market customers are overlooked.
instance, in research and development,
Vendors either focus on their larger enterprise
cloud technology can help pharma
customers, or provide consumer-level
companies process the vast
solutions that don’t deliver the scalability
amounts of data needed to
mid-market companies need.
develop new drugs, thereby maximising their resources.
A good fit for pharma challenges digital disruption presents to
Hybrid solutions prove popular
larger enterprises, while often having made
The good news is that moving
considerable infrastructure investments
to the cloud doesn’t have
they don’t want to abandon overnight.
to be an overwhelming
Smaller companies can take the plunge
experience. Cloud migration
and leverage new trends such as the cloud,
is not a black and white, in
Mid-market companies are facing the same
44
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
ABOUT Danny Drew is an experienced technology solutions professional with expertise in all aspects of communications. His areas of speciality include technology architecture, business analytics, contact centre consultancy and optimisation.
Avaya South Africa – www.avaya.com
SOUTH AFRICAN
PackagingREVIEW May 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 5
www.pharmacos.co.za
Optimum solutions for carton and board
Perfect packaging to ďŹ t your brand Blister pack wins technical innovation trophy
News
Committed to sharing information THERE HAVE BEEN some interesting
needs. That’s not all – we have the scoop on
developments on the packaging front which I am
Moco Cosmetic Packaging’s name change! Turn
excited to share with you.
to page 47 now for the full story.
In this edition of PACKAGING REVIEW, we’ve got advice from the experts on new carton and
Enjoy the read.
board equipment launches for your pending facility upgrades. We also look at integrated solutions to better assist brands in making the
Assistant Editor
right packaging choice to suit their products’
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
BLISTER PACK AWARDED FOR INNOVATION
GO WITH COLOUR
THE EUROPEAN ALUMINIUM
packaging medium, prior to
competition, praised the
Foil Association (EAFA) has
being mixed and dispensed.
innovative solution.
awarded Amcor Flexibles
The solution was a joint
‘Sensitive dry medicines
and Rohrer’s Frangible
development by Amcor
can be damaged by exposure
SOUTH AFRICA-BASED self-lubricated
Formpack Blister packaging
Flexibles and Rohrer.
to light, heat and, especially
polymer bearings and bushings
moisture. This pack goes a long
manufacturer, Vesconite Bearings, says
an Alufoil Trophy for technical
One of the pack’s
TO REDUCE LOSS
innovation. The Frangible
chambers can be filled with
way to solving all these issues,
lost parcels are becoming a thing of the
Formpack is a multi-chamber
dry powder that incorporates
while offering a secure means
past. This is thanks to its shocking pink
pharmaceutical blister that
an active ingredient. The
of delivery in a liquid solution
packaging colour launched specifically
enables moisture-sensitive
other is then filled with liquid.
with sterile water, in almost any
for outbound shipments of various
active ingredients such as
The peelable frangible seal
environment,’ he says.
finished goods.
drugs, vaccines or diagnostic
allows both components to be
reactants to be contained
mixed by pushing on cavity of
also simplifies the supply
the pack.
chain by eliminating the
safely in one
Guido Schmitz, the director
need for cool storage and glass containers. It can also
of packaging design in consumer health at
The Frangible Formpack Blister pack
The multi-chamber blister
be used for point-of-care
Bayer Healthcare
diagnostic testing in situations
and lead judge for
where a complex laboratory
the Alufoil Trophy 2017
environment cannot be set up.
German company expands with SA agency ROTOCON HAS BEEN appointed the agent
Jaarsveld, Spec Systems’ Johannesburg
for Erhardt+Leimer (E+L). The partnership
operations manager. According to
with the German-based inspection
Rotocon, there are four more orders
technology specialist began with two E+L
scheduled for delivery. ‘The agreement
Smartscan systems recently installed at
with E+L reflects our commitment to expand
Spec Systems. The systems were installed
services to customers in South Africa by
on the company’s new RCSI 330 Rotocon
adding new technology that meets real
slitter rewinder machines.
needs in our extensive portfolio,’ says
‘It is so simple to operate. The machine was installed on a Wednesday and fully
Michael Aengenvoort, owner of Rotocon. He says Smartscan systems complement
operational by Thursday, running at a
the company’s new RSCI brand of slitter
speed of about 200m a minute. In addition,
rewinders. ‘Together, they satisfy the
the E+L Smartscan inspection feature
ever-greater demand for cost-effective
requires minimal machine operator training
efficiency, accuracy and quality.’ The
because of its ease of use and one-touch
cooperation between both companies
set-up compared to around five steps for
makes it possible to offer more solutions for
competitive machines,’ says Jacques van
the label industry.
46
| MAY 2017 | Packaging Review
The company’s chairperson, Dr Jean-Patrick Leger found that parcels in nondescript brown packaging were frequently going missing after hand-over from the courier company to the airlines. ‘It was unbelievable. Sometimes shipments weighing tons would just disappear, only to be found months later in an airport warehouse hundreds of thousands of miles away from the original routing,’ he says. Since Vesconite Bearings introduced the bright pink packaging with diagonal wording, lost packaging of finished goods has become a rare occurrence. Leger says he was advised to choose packaging that stood out so he considered his late mother’s favourite colour – pink. The deep pink hues resonate with clientele and other brands have followed suit in the selection of pink hues for their packaging. Boxes ready to be filled with goods
Closures, Pumps & Dispensers
Dispensing new developments Moco Cosmetic Packaging (Moco) has a new name – Moco Packaging. Company owner, Moshe Cohen talks to PACKAGING REVIEW about this change and the supply of closures, pumps and dispensers for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
S
ituated in Jeppestown in the
There are a variety of closures for
Johannesburg CBD, the company
cosmetics applications, including
Pumps for viscous products
has been in existence for more
sprayers, pumps, foamers, triggers
been profiting substantially
than 28 years. Cohen says it was time
and actuators – which all serve the
from the increasing use of
for the name change as its original
same purpose. An additional factor
packaging made of PET-
branding implied the company sold only
for consideration when selecting
based disposable bottles. As a
cosmetics packaging.
a closure is product viscosity. Low
result, the quality of closures is
viscosity products are thinner
constantly improving.
‘This is not the case,’ he comments, ‘so the solution was to remove the
liquids than the thicker, higher
word “cosmetic” as we also supply
viscosity products.
products for pharmaceutical packaging, among others.’
Ceresana reports that restrictive packaging standards in developed
‘Sometimes even massage oil
countries and increasing consumer
packaging requires the use of a
requirements will result in the rising
pump,’ he adds. ‘If the
consumption of advanced closures.
MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE
product is more viscous,
These include tamper evident caps,
A key element to cosmetics
an external dip tube with
side press and turn tops, and push
packaging is the dispenser.
a larger diameter allows
and lock caps and dispensers.
Whether it is a standard
the product to be pumped
cap or sophisticated pump
more easily. Fluids with
child resistant packaging help avoid
dispenser, it is essential that
aggressive ingredients
accidental medicine ingestion,
an appropriate amount
can also be sprayed into a
while playing an important role in
of product is dispensed
fine mist.’
product protection.
Cohen says tamper evident and
without hassle to the
Although medicine regulations
DYNAMIC MARKET GROWTH
end user. The best selling items are the company’s standard
Moshe Cohen
pumps and sprayers. ‘Our
The popular sustainable material
standard range is most suitable
for closures is plastic.
for a client who is price conscious
Recycled polyethylene
but wants a product to do the job,’
terephthalate is a favourite
Cohen recommends.
for personal care product
DID YOU KNOW? The child resistant locking closure for containers was invented in 1967.
continue to become stricter, it can take up to seven years to introduce a new product. This is why closures remain the same for lengthy periods, as an adjustment is also a tedious, timeconsuming process. ·
packaging due to its similarities to Plastic and metal fine mist sprayers determine the amount of product dispensed
glass, and it’s 100 percent recyclable. Cohen says consumers have
Moco Packaging – www.mocopack.co.za
become more environmentally conscious and the global personal care industry is taking note of the
Triggers can handle steam, spray or foamy liquids
lean towards ‘green’. This has been a driving factor in the reduction of packaging complexity. According to Ceresana Market Intelligence Consulting’s (Ceresana), the market for plastic caps and closures has
Packaging Review | MAY 2017 |
47
Carton & Board
The route to
greener pastures Cartonboard health care packs by Metsä Board
as it contains a bottle
ZERO FAULT PRODUCTION
or other product
Fratelli Roda SA has become the first Swiss
dispenser. Despite
company to install a Bobst Accucheck
what it is referred to,
unit, which delivers complete in-line
the consumer’s first
quality checks of folding cartons. The unit
impression resides with a
reinforces its position as a supplier constantly
product’s packaging.
focused on quality. The system is further
‘The appearance of packaging in a pharmacy has grown in importance. It is no longer considered
By Aarifah Nosarka
A
s a top priority for most middle to high income consumers, health care developments are shaping
new ways of packaging medical products. This is according to Christophe Baudry, commercial director of beauty care and health care at Metsä Board. Packaging plays a vital role in drawing a distinction between prescription and overthe-counter (OTC) medicines. After all, it’s the first and often the only opportunity for a product to appeal to the consumer. Baudry says cartonboard packaging is often referred to as the secondary package
48
| MAY 2017 | Packaging Review
pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Franco Roda, general director at Fratelli Roda SA, says the company is known for investing in innovative technology. ‘It was
a functional entity, but rather an
natural for us to look at further improving the
asset to attract attention when selling OTC
quality of our products. Our customers are on
products,’ he stresses.
a continuous quest for perfection. We chose
Eye catching packaging increases
What should health care packaging convey in order to pique consumer interest and increase sales? PACKAGING REVIEW has the answer, along with new technology to ensure carton quality, and conveyor systems for carton and board packaging.
expected to attract new business from the
the Accucheck unit because it can check
product sales as it attracts consumer
100 percent of our folding carton production
interest. It is therefore imperative that
and meet their “zero-fault” requirements.’
pharmaceutical product packaging is
Placed in line with a Bobst Expertfold or
reliable, promotes the brand in question,
Masterfold folder-gluer, the unit checks
preserves product quality on the shelf and
each carton for print-to-cut registration
in handling, is easy to use and maintains
precision, printing defects, oil or water marks,
safe consumption. Baudry says Metsä
ink splashes, carton damage or scratches,
Board’s paperboards for health care
bad cut quality or colour variation. If a blank
packaging deliver specific benefits for
does not meet the quality specifications
various end uses.
input by the operator, it is ejected from the
Metsä Board’s offering includes fully
production stream.
coated bleached paperboards with excellent sensory and hygiene properties
VERSATILE INTEGRATED SOLUTION
required for sensitive products. They are
Bosch Packaging Technology (Bosch), in
suitable for offset, gravure, flexo and digital
partnership with the recently acquired Kliklok
printing, as well as litholamination. They
Corporation, introduces its Kilklok integrated
also provide good resistance to odour and
topload cartoner (ITC). This integrated
taint transfer.
carton forming, loading and closing solution complements the company’s
The Accucheck is the new in-line solution to inspect carton blanks for defects as they enter the Bobst folder-gluer
packaging portfolio. The ITC boasts one of the highest speeds available for a solution
Carton & Board
with such a small footprint. It also enables the production of a wide range of carton sizes and styles. This allows manufacturers to save production space and increase product output without compromising on quality. The system’s principal function is to
Marchesini’s FRB 500 machine
form topload style cartons or trays and robotically load wrapped products into them, before closing, if required. solution with three functions – carton
for efficient and fast production while
OPTIMAL CARTON PACKAGING SOLUTIONS
forming, loading and closing – the machine
maintaining premium product quality.
Marchesini recently introduced the Integra
Comprising a single fully integrated
helps to reduce customer footprint with
ITC stems from customers’ increased need
Neil Fowell, the general manager at
520 V, which is available in South Africa
its ergonomic design. The ITC takes
Kliklok International says innovation is at the
from MGSA Consulting (MGSA). Myles
complete control of the carton – from
heart of everything the company does. ‘It is
Davis from MGSA describes the system as
forming to finished package, and avoids
imperative for Bosch to adapt to consumer
a perfect fit for the new BLA 525 labeller
the need to source three separate pieces
demand, as we focus on becoming the
from Marchesini’s Neri division and fast
of equipment. Developed with the new
single-source solutions provider within
bundler FA 04 from Multipack, both
HMI 4.0 touch screen, the next generation
the market.’
built to manage the flow of 500 cartons
of intelligent human machine interfaces,
The ITC offers customers the flexibility
per minute.
it offers users an enhanced experience,
to change formats and run a variety of
guiding the operator through each step of
carton styles. Cartons are fed using a
are its patented indexing device that
the production process. This allows for an
reciprocating carton feeder. They are
positions and sets incoming cartons apart
improved productivity rate. According to
formed using a motion profiled vertical
at specific distances on toothed belts.
Bosch, the demand for an easy-to-operate
plunger. Lock or glue cartons can be
It involves an adjustable width, which
formed on the ITC with the possibility of
prevents feasible slipping. This conveyor
forming four different carton styles within
system is associated with a logical ‘fail safe’
a single or twin infeed model. Once the
rejection method that ensures only correct
carton is formed, an intelligent transport
cartons reach the next machine.
Sustainable packs impact sales Folding cartons, an important packaging
system is used to carry it independently
Among the strongholds of the BLA 525
Davis says the fast version of the FA 04
through the machine’s robotic loading and
is an upgrade of Multipack’s classic FA
care industry, have been gaining
hot melt glue closing module. This system
04 version. The newly upgraded unit can
popularity among brand owners.
provides flexible and variable configurable
handle a production flow of 500 cartons
This momentum is mainly attributed to
control of the carton to suit both loading
per minute, which amounts to 100 more
the use of eco-friendly and recyclable
and closing requirements. It comprises
cartons than the former machine.
solution for the cosmetics and personal
materials during production.
minimal parts, which reduces maintenance
According to Transparency Market
while further increasing the overall
locally is Marchesini’s FRB 500 tray and
equipment effectiveness.
box former,’ he comments. ‘This automatic
Research, the sales of folding cartons were US$2.8 billion last year. The market is expected to expand at a CAGR of 7.10 percent over the next seven years, and is likely to reach US$4.9 billion by the end of 2024.
The carton closing operation uses easily
‘The most recently requested technology
intermittent-motion machine has been
replaceable high-friction belts to quietly
designed to form boxes and trays from
convey cartons out of the machine. This
flat cardboard. Suitable for the cosmetics
effectively reduces any carton marking and
and pharmaceutical markets, products
product damage.
can be sealed with tuck-in flap closures or hotmelt glue either from the top or Carton forming, product loading and carton closing in one integrated unit
the side. Designed in accordance with cGMP regulations, the machine features a balcony-style structure for easy access, cleaning and maintenance.’ The FRB 500 uses corrugated cardboard from one to three millimetres or simple paperboard from 0.5 to 0.7mm. ·
Bobst – www.bobst.com Bosch Packaging Technology – www.boschpackaging.com Metsä Board – www.metsaboard.com MGSA Consulting – www.mgsaconsulting.co.za
Packaging Review | MAY 2017 |
49
Tea time
Answers to the perfumes and colognes trivia in P C
Review April:
Sudoku
Shalimar, introduced in 1925
2.
Coco Chanel with N5
3.
Grasse, in Provence, France
4.
Catherine Deneuve
5.
Angel
6.
Van Cleef and Arpels introduced First in 1976
7.
Miss Dior in 1947
8.
Rose and jasmine
9.
Cologne, Germany
10. L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci
1
TO ADVERTISE IN
5
5
8 4 7
1.
9
Anita Raath
6 8
Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
4 2
4
Carla Melless Sales executive
5 6
3
1
9
9
7 5
Amchem ................................................. 41 ........www.amchem.co.za Anderson Engineering.............................27 ........www.andersoneng.co.za Biotech Solutions ....................................42 ........www.biotechsolutions.co.za Botanical Natural Products .....................35 ........www.timola.co.za Chem Systems ........................................40 ........www.chemsystems.co.za Chempure .............................................. 13 ........www.dsm.com/personal-care Cirebelle .............................................. OFC ........www.cirebelle.com CJP Chemicals .......................................33 ........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Claman...................................................29 ........www.claman.co.za CLR Chemisches ..................................... 15 ........www.clr-berlin.com Cosma Perfumes & Flavours ...................30 ........www.cosmaperfumes.com Crest Chemicals .....................................20 ........www.crestchem.co.za Evonik Africa ........................................... 17 ........www.evonik.com Fourchem ............................................... 11 ........www.fourchem.co.za IMCD SA ...................................................5 ........www.imcdgroup.co.za
50
+27 (0)83 260 6060
1 8
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
9
| MAY 2017 | P C Review
Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
Khaya International.................................36 ........www.kip.co.za Lanochem ..............................................28 ........www.orthochem.co.za MGSA Consulting ....................................43 ........www.mgsaconsulting.co.za Millchem.................................................21 ........www.millchem.co.za Moco Cosmetic Packaging ..................... IFC ........www.mocopack.co.za Natchem.................................................34 ........www.natchem.co.za Nautica organic Trading ..........................26 ........www.nauticaorganics.com o6 Agencies............................................32 ........www.o6southafrica.com Pelchem .................................................22 ........www.pelchem.com Puregas ..................................................37 ........www.puregas.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals................. 19, 25 ........sfc-info@savannah.co.za Symrise ............................................... OBC ........www.symrise.com Vantage Speciality Chemicals .................23 ........www.vantagegrp.com Warrenchem ...........................................29 ........www.warrenchem.co.za
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and
and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown
closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is
seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff
your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &
agents I Concentrates
cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
NOVOPAK
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
Novopak is a plastic packaging
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,
company that specializes in
cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
manufacturing a complete range
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.
Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme
Your No. 1 industry leader
offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social
for the most comprehensive
needs and well being.
ranges of both synthetic and
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across
natural colours – used in food,
SA, cosmetics are used as tools
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to address visible side effects of
industrial applications.
treatment to assist patients to restore
Tablet coatings – manufactured,
self-esteem and face the world
supplied and marketed globally
with confidence.
under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.lgfb.co.za
www.quantumcolours.co.za
“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com
”