Empowering women to look better without looking younger

Healthy ageing, also more commonly known as the well-ageing movement, is inspiring global beauty brands and cosmetics manufacturers to create inclusive beauty products that support skin health. The movement is also relevant to menopausal beauty where cosmetic products are designed to address the skin and hair concerns of midlife women, resulting from the lack of estrogen. By Abby Vorster

In the past, women dreaded menopause; the topic was taboo and there was little to no support for women going through this life stage. Over the past five years, the cycle of silence surrounding menopause has been broken by campaigns for better education, support and care on the topic.

What’s even more noteworthy is how the negative conversation around menopause has evolved to encompass more positive and uplifting messages, in line with society’s changing perception of ageing. Instead of slowing the process, which is considered anti-ageing, consumers are more interested in being at their healthiest as they age. For women, this is particularly true during menopause, which women experience between their 40s and 60s.

Statistics show that 50% of the global population will experience menopause – which means there is a massive target market for menopausal beauty, skin and hair care products formulated to make the process more comfortable.

EXPLORING THE THREE STAGES

In order to address the skin and hair care needs of menopausal women, it’s important to understand the three stages of the journey.

The first stage is perimenopause. This is when estrogen fluctuations occur, and symptoms are at their most intense. According to healthcare experts, there are more than 34 recognised symptoms, some of which include fatigue, mood swings, hair loss, headaches, dry and itching skin and changes in body odour.

Perimenopause starts as early as age 45 and can continue for an average of seven to ten years before menopause occurs. This is when 12 full months have passed since a woman’s last menstrual cycle – the very next day is known as menopause and it only lasts one day. Thereafter, women enter post-menopause. This third and final stage occurs daily after reaching menopause and lasts for the rest of a woman’s life.

The cycle from the first to final stage causes hormones to fluctuate. The decrease in estrogen levels contributes to a decline in collagen, causing skin to lose firmness, become thin and saggy, and results in changes in skin texture. It also affects the hair cycle with less hair produced in the growth phase, and it causes hot flashes.

Did you know?

The top three menopausal symptoms of African American women are sleep difficulty (85%), hot or cold flashes (57%) and forgetfulness (50%). In comparison, feeling hot or cold is top (72%) for Caucasian women, followed by allergy symptoms (65%) and forgetfulness (60%). Source: WGSN

INGREDIENTS AND IDEAS FOR NPD

As a global producer of fragrances, flavours and cosmetic ingredients, Symrise offers a full basket of technologies for menopausal beauty collections. Symrise recommends its Frescolat range to modulate hot flashes. These ingredients are grouped according to the intensity of freshness they impart, from low to high, to provide a pleasant refreshing effect on the skin with a longer efficacy than menthol.

The effect is demonstrated in a cooling mist formulated with Frescolat X-Cool, which cools down the body and mind with just a spritz, when one is experiencing a hot flash. The mist gives a pleasant refreshing feeling upon application with instant relief from the discomfort of a hot flash. It also helps women to keep cool by creating the sensation that the body temperature is decreasing.

For a rich hydrating cream to care for dry and fragile skin, Symrise offers Hydroviton Plus and SymGlucan, which are both proven to restore natural moisture levels in skin. SymRepair 100 supports the topical application of lipids to counter reduced lipid production. Along with SymReboot L19, SymRepair 100 is also effective in improving the integrity of the skin’s barrier.

Sagging skin is another key concern of midlife women as skin loses up to 30% of collagen within the first five years of postmenopause. This is because the hormonal fluctuations lead to a loss of connective tissue (i.e. collagen and elastin) and changes in the distribution of fat tissue, resulting in a decline in subcutaneous fat. The effects are first seen in the face and lead to reduced elasticity and a decrease in skin firmness at the cheeks and neckline.

To address these concerns, Symrise offers a variety of products for a holistic approach. SymMatrix, a natural antioxidant, helps to protect from collagen degradation and photo-ageing, SymFinity 1298 boosts skin’s resilience to stress and helps protect elastin from degradation. Dragosine, a di-peptide naturally produced by the body, helps to provide protection from oxidative stress and the damaging effects of solar radiation. It has been proven to improve skin elasticity and firmness, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and boost collagen production.

SymGlucan provides immediate comfort and moisture while advancing firmness and elasticity; and SymDecanox HA is a hyaluronic acid enhancer.

MENOPAUSE-SPECIFIC BEAUTY AND HAIR PRODUCTS :

• Korres Meno-Reverse Volumising Serum-In-Moisturiser is designed to target the visible changes in postmenopausal skin.

• Meg’s Menopause offers a range of products, from a facial cooling spray and HA serum to an intimate wash and water-based lubricant, to tackle dry skin, collagen loss and hot flashes.

• Emepelle is a line of skin care products developed specifically for estrogen-deficient skin. The products are said to harness the restorative benefits of patented MEP technology, which encourages skin to behave as if estrogen is still present in the body, ultimately restoring collagen.

• Better Not Younger is a new hair care brand developed for ageing hair. Each product is thoughtfully formulated to address a particular ageing hair, scalp or inner health need. The restorative hair mask is dedicated to women experiencing the effects of perimenopause on their hair.

There is a massive target market for menopausal beauty, skin and hair care products formulated to make the process more comfortable

A SOLUTION FOR AGEING HAIR

During menopause, it is also possible for hair growth to occur on a woman’s face while the hair on her head may become dull, dry and thinner and start to fall out easily. This is mainly due to the drop in estrogen levels in her body. Estrogen is a ‘hairfriendly hormone’, which helps hair in its anagen (growth) phase. When these hormone levels are lowered, it can cause a shorter hair growth cycle that is both slower and produces thinner hair.

Often there is also a higher ratio of testosterone present in a midlife woman’s body which will shrink hair follicles and cause hair loss. To fight hair loss and hair thinning at three different levels, Symrise offers SymHair Force. It is clinically proven to increase hair density and offers root revitalisation and volume enhancing benefits.

Symrise’s revitalising shampoo for mature hair formulated with SymHair Force 1631 addresses the hair-thinning and hair-loss worries of menopausal women. The microalgae extract from Tahitian seas provides a source of strength for hair fibres, preventing breakage. It also helps to enhance hair growth and volume with regular washes resulting in stronger, fuller and fall-resistant hair.

PLANT-POWERED BEAUTY

Botanical ingredients such as hemp, vanilla and kiwi are known to be rich in vitamin and mineral compounds. Symrise also produces a range of botanical oils and extracts ideal for menopausal beauty collections.

Cranberry oil is rich in vitamins and key essential fatty acids like omega 3, 6 and 9. It is also an excellent source of beneficial nutrients that may help to support well-ageing. Extrapone Kiwi is rich in antioxidants thanks to the extensive benefits of this bright green fruit. The kiwi is not only recognised as a vitamin bomb but also as a veritable youth elixir. Symrise’s organic hemp oil has a high level of omega 3, which is known to be beneficial in dealing with hot flashes. Hemp is also celebrated for its properties that have a positive effect on well-being and for its soothing and moisturising benefits.

Actipone Vanilla, extracted from the mood-enhancing spice of vanilla, may impart soothing, antioxidant and stimulant benefits when used in a cosmetic, while Extrapone Ginseng, sourced from the oval root traditionally used in herbal remedies, may moisturise and sooth dry and sensitive skin in well-ageing skin care applications. •