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AI-designed biofunctional ingredient defies skin ageing
Inspired by forest therapy, Ashland has launched Santalwood biofunctional, a natural extract of sandalwood. This active ingredient is clinically tested on several skin ageing parameters, bringing the well-ageing and regenerative benefits of sandalwood to skin care.
Santalwood biofunctional is the first biofunctional developed by Ashland using artificial intelligence (AI) to predict unexplored biological pathways in well-ageing. These include skin olfactory receptors OR2AT4, cell senescence, cell longevity and barrier regeneration.
“Ashland continues to look to ancient ceremonies and current trends such as forest therapy to bring new technologies to the field of personal care active ingredients and which amplify the efficacy of our customers’ products,” says Joel Mantelin, vice president of marketing and business development, biofunctionals and naturals, at Ashland.
Forest therapy is an emerging health and wellness trend. It is inspired by the traditional Japanese ritual of shinrin yoku, which means ‘bathing in the forest’. Various studies have shown the therapeutic connection between forest bathing and improved mental health. Practiced today in the form of guided forest walks or hiking in nature – forest therapy eases stress and aids relaxation.
Several scientific studies state that inhaling forest volatile organic compounds (VOCs) may result in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on the airways. The pharmacological activity of some forest VOCs absorbed through inhalation may also be beneficial to promote brain function, decrease mental fatigue, induce relaxation and improve cognitive performance and mood.
A BREAKTHROUGH IN SKIN CARE RESEARCH
Through its research, Ashland has made a major scientific contribution to understanding the impact of age and environmental damage on skin olfactory receptors, OR2AT4.
Reconstructed human epidermis models from various donors of different ages showed that the olfactory receptors decline with age, reducing skin’s capacity to regenerate.
Did you know?
For many centuries, sandalwood has been used in religious ceremonies and in Ayurvedic medicine. It is also used by Hindus and Buddhists to create a meditative atmosphere while Ancient Egyptians believed that sandalwood was essential to reincarnation. Today, it is widely used in aromatherapy to alleviate stress and calm the mind.
Ashland also demonstrated for the first time that there is a strong connection between the decline in OR2AT4 and cell senescence. Factors such as skin ageing, cellular senescence and exposure to air pollutants or P-VOCs resulted in a decrease in OR2AT4 while the activation of these olfactory receptors was associated with barrier regeneration and wound healing. Based on these findings, OR2AT4 can be considered a new marker for skin ageing.
To confirm the efficacy of Santalwood biofunctional, it was tested ex vivo on a skin biopsy of a 37-year-old. A visible increase in OR2AT4 expression was observed in skin treated with 1% of the biofunctional ingredient, suggesting its positive effect on barrier regeneration.
In a reconstructed human epidermis, the ingredient also showed to increase OR2AT4 mRNA.
The results of an in vitro study revealed that Santalwood biofunctional increases OR2AT4 in senescent skin, highlighting the ingredient’s significance in increasing cell longevity.
BASED ON A CIRCULAR ECONOMY
Santalwood biofunctional is sourced from Santalum album grown sustainably in Australia’s Kimberley region near Perth, where regenerative agricultural principles and water-efficient irrigation techniques are used. The trees are primarily grown for sandalwood essential oil obtained by steam distillation.
The biofunctional ingredient is sourced from upcycled wood chips – a by-product of the essential oil distillation – using supercritical CO2 extraction technology. The entire process is based on a circular economy, which advances the corporate environmental, social and governance agenda of Ashland.
Anne Clay, the company’s global marketing manager, comments: “Sandalwood produces forest VOCs that form only with the right mix of genetics and environmental factors. Ashland’s Santalwood biofunctional captures from the sandalwood selective forest VOCs that are key for wellbeing, to enhance skin’s olfactory receptors that decrease with age and from exposure to air pollution.”
Available in South Africa from Millchem, Santalwood biofunctional is clinically proven to firm and regenerate skin and to reduce wrinkles. It is oil-soluble, veganfriendly and can be formulated in a wide range of well-ageing beauty products to transform skin’s appearance from dull and lifeless to vibrant and glowing. The recommended use level of Santalwood biofunctional is 1% to 2%. The ingredient is also inherently biodegradable while its COSMOS validation is pending. •
Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.com
