Ingredients to meet consumers’ needs for sustainable formulas and product personalisation

Many brands are going full steam ahead with their sustainability efforts while increasing their focus to champion personalisation in beauty care applications. With the new launches from Seppic, represented locally by CJP Chemicals, formulators can address consumers’ needs for customisation and sustainability at the same time.

After many years of research and conscious innovation, Seppic has launched EmogreenTM HP 40. The introduction of this sustainable and biobased emollient comes at a significant time when the sustainability profile and performance of ingredients are increasingly being challenged. Emogreen HP 40 is a versatile texturising ingredient, which is highly compatible in formulation design.

This newcomer from Seppic extends the sustainable Emogreen range of emollients. Obtained using a patented process, Emogreen HP 40 is a textured and slightly viscous emollient. It offers an effective and sustainable alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients.

Emogreen HP 40 is 100% plant-based, patented and inherently biodegradable, offering brands and manufacturers a formulation technology with a more virtuous environmental footprint.

It imparts film-forming properties with a smooth enveloping and supple after-feel and no tacky effect. This outstanding multifaceted capacity will significantly enhance the efficacy and preferred performance of any type of cosmetic application, from skin care and makeup to sun care etc.

Exciting thermal protection performance

The thermal protection performance* of this emollient is something to be acknowledged by brand owners, manufacturers and end-users of hair care products. Emogreen HP 40 offers the same sensory and application benefits of silicones such as dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, but without their greasy and sticky sensation drawbacks.

It also helps to preserve the keratin structure of hair during thermal treatment in order to maintain its health and to protect it. The emollient offers additional performance benefits such as anti-frizz, volume control and easy combing – all of which have been demonstrated as a result of the product’s substantivity on the hair fibre and its ability to smoothen hair scales. Check out tables 1 and 2 for formulation inspiration incorporating Emogreen HP 40 into innovative hair care products.

Did you know?

Dimethiconol-based mixes have been widely used in hair care products to improve hair’s appearance and texture. Yet, their use is on the decline as a result of the synthetic origin of dimethiconol and its negative impact on the environment. As there is an increased need for an effective alternative, Seppic presents Emogreen HP 40 as an ideal solution.

Augmenting sustainable formulation design

Available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, this multifunctional ingredient is highly compatible with other formulation ingredients, it is easy to use and cold processable.

With this new launch, Seppic consolidates its position as a social and environmentally responsible supplier to the hair care industry.

Jennifer Fryscher, Seppic’s emollients product manager, comments: “Emogreen HP 40 widens the field of possibilities for responsible and sustainable formulation design in the hair care industry, addressing demands in terms of efficacy and custom-made care.”

Home-made cosmetics trend

With the self-care movement, consumers have taken to creating their own beauty recipes to take care of their skin and hair. Coupled with this, consumers are looking for transparency and simplicity. They also want to know that they their personal care products adapted and personalised to their needs and desires.

In response, Seppic has launched a duo of cosmetic mixology formulas. Its marketing and innovation teams combined their expertise to develop a ‘blend it yourself’ concept, which is safe and fun for consumers. With these two bases, Seppic offers a simplified and safer customisation solution for consumers who are not always aware of the risks and constraints of home-made cosmetic formulation.

Two formulas with different sensory characteristics

The first formula is a robust emulsion base combining softness and creaminess. Emulsion stability and robustness are provided by the emulsifier Montanov™ 202. The polymers Solagum™ AX and Sepimax Zen™ enhance the formula’s resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Designed with a minimalist approach, this formula also contains Emogreen L15, an emollient for sensory comfort and Aquaxyl™, which is an essential sugar-based moisturising agent.

The second customisable formula is a gel-cream base supplied as a solid pebble. When activated with water, it forms a fresh gel with a light touch. The pairing of the Solagum Tara and Sepimax Zen polymers forms a fresh, watery gel-cream and strengthens the formula’s resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Three additional ingredients have been incorporated:

1. Emogreen L19, an emollient for sensory comfort

2. Sepifine™ BB, a texturising agent to provide softness

3. Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturising agent.

Easy to customise with home-based actives

These two formula bases can be customised with active ingredients that are easy to find at home for various applications, including face care, hair care and body care. To ensure the robustness of the final formulas, the two chassis were tested with 10 home-made active ingredients with different profiles (viscosity, pH, presence of electrolytes and solubility). Among them were lemon juice for a radiance face mask, coffee grounds for a body scrub and pomegranate vinegar for an all-in-one hair care product.

In addition to responding to a current market trend, when designing the formulas Seppic took into account consumers current needs for minimalist formulas and their requirements for high naturalness and safety for human health. •

*assessment of the thermal protection of Emogreen HP 40 alone and in formulation via the measurement of keratin deterioration by Xpolar technology (Kmax Innovative System) on healthy Caucasian hair after 50 passes of heat treatment at 210°C.

The first formula is a robust emulsion base combining softness and creaminess

The second customisable formula is a gel-cream base designed as a solid pebble