SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
November/December 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 11
www.pharmacos.co.za
Creating
new and exciting
scent
experiences
Explore new frontiers in fragrance innovation Enhance the science of beauty with novel ingredients PHARMA FOCUS: All your aseptic processing needs covered
Join us for the
Beauty Business & Partners 2 019
Learn from eight beauty, business and industry experts in one inspiring day to discover what it takes to run a successful company in tough economic times.
CO N F E R E N C E
• One unmissable session on beauty and money, highlighting the acquisitionready checklist and potential investor opportunities for brand owners and suppliers. • The following topics will also feature on the conference programme: 1. Cleaner beauty – the rise of natural ingredients, sustainable sourcing and cold processing 2. The future of beauty marketing and advertising – insight into the ASA liquidation and how to develop a marketing strategy where compliance transcends all platforms 3. Compliant beauty – the PIF and safety assessment journey of one independently owned, local brand and how the company transitioned from self-regulated to EU compliant 4. Beauty influencers – the good, the instafamous and the greedy 5. Private label – how one brand made it big on the basis of added value 6. Safety, efficacy and stability – what is required, how much does it cost and why is it necessary? 7. How to connect with African brands and consumers – first-hand advice on doing business in the beauty industry, beyond the South African border
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW Date:
Thursday, 21 February 2019
Time:
08h30 to 16h00
Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa • Save with our Early Bird special! Book your seat now and pay R995 per person including VAT. Early Bird bookings close on 30 November 2018. • Conference seats booked after 1 December 2018 will cost R1 295. • You will receive more information on the conference programme and speakers once you have booked and paid for your seat. Send an e-mail to abby.vorster@ newmediapub.co.za for more information.
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
14
November/December 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 11
New De Laire bases from Symrise
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
Celebrating the industry’s visionaries
8 NEWS
Cipla opens new inhaler plant in Morocco
Vytrus honoured for novel serum formulation
RégimA named 2018’s best skin care supplier
10 COMPLIANCE COLUMN
A handy checklist for labelling
11 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s new in South Africa
24 PHARMA FOCUS:
13 EVENTS
Highlights from the Africa HPC markets seminar
14 FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
ASEPTIC PROCESSING
Keep critical environments clean with Nilfisk
Marchesini boosts its vial processing solutions
28 INGREDIENT &
Symrise partners with Payan Bertrand
Introducing English Leather Woman
FORMULATION INNOVATION
Essential oils, the indispensable fragrance ingredients
Replace microplastics with natural cellulose
The future of niche perfumery in South Africa
Nature-based innovations from Evonik
New scent boosting technology from Bell
Gentle mechanical exfoliators for face care
Vantage expands its portfolio of nutrient-rich milks
Choose Derma-Clear to soothe a sensitive scalp
Gattefossé launches its first hair care ingredient
Skin actives inspired by the Mediterranean
| Volume 44 mber 2018 ember/Dece
| Number 11
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44 Events
Printology Roadshow tours major print centres
46 Blister Packaging & Encapsulation
Solutions to protect and secure your products
48 Industry Talk
Dow set to identify new ways to recycle plastics
49 ASSOCIATION NEWS
le 2018 whist Printology lights stop tour high
turn ints duo tore Dow appoin su ea tr to h as tr
Latest news from Coschem
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
A sensory affair
W
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti
hat are your favourite
This month, our pharma focus looks
smells? I love the richly
at aseptic processing and the specialist
Contributors: Alessa Huneke, Andreas Kiesow, Judith Ryll, Liesl Keulder, Sandra Sarembe, Vanessa Sternitzke
familiar scents of my
equipment to maintain a hygienic, safe
ADVERTISING
two children, the earthy
and efficient environment. Turn to page 24
Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za
smell of rain and the heady aroma of good
now to read more about how Nilfisk assures
coffee. Each of these smells triggers a strong
maximum hygiene in the shortest time
emotional response that uplifts my spirit, de-
possible in pharma labs, clean rooms and
stresses and takes me to a happy place.
production sites. If you’re looking for new
Our scent preferences are highly personal
manufacturing technology for injectables
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za
and often linked to specific memories or
and small volume parenteral products –
associations. In the personal and home care
Marchesini’s expanded aseptic processing
Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmediapub.co.za
industries, these emotional connections
portfolio may have the right solution for your
INTERNATIONAL SALES
are maximised by incorporating fragrance
manufacturing needs.
ingredients into formulations. Beyond the
In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
sensory experience, high performance
section, Aarifah Nosarka discusses some of
fragrance technologies add value to
the newest blister packaging innovations
products, making their scent last longer on
on the market for oral solid dosage forms.
skin or in clean laundry.
Featured on page 46, the push through
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
strip packaging for tablets and capsules
CIRCULATION
Long lasting fragrance creations have been in demand for years and span both
is particularly interesting, offering multiple
the perfumery and home care categories.
benefits to a brand, manufacturer and the
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za
Fragrance houses continue to innovate in
user. The four-sided sealed foil pack uses less
PUBLISHING TEAM
this space with high performance delivery
packaging material in production and its
General Manager: Dev Naidoo
systems, perfume compounds, the discovery
targeted perforation is user friendly, enabling
of unique ingredients and new aroma
easy access to medicines. This is particularly
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
molecules. You can read more about these
important for geriatric patients.
Production Controller: Rae Morrison
developments in our section on fragrances and essential oils on page 14. As a journal for innovation-minded industry
It’s hard to believe this is our last edition for 2018. This year has been a fast paced and challenging one, which is why we’re grateful
professionals, our mission is to help readers
for the continued support from readers,
create and deliver their next great finished
advertisers and industry partners. Thank you,
product in line with budget, regulatory
from the team and me. We hope you have a
and market demands. The ingredient and
good break during the festive season.
formulation innovation feature on page 28 highlights a variety of ingredients and
Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb
Stay safe and enjoy the read!
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
formulation technologies that are on trend,
Bridget McCarney
sustainable, easy to formulate and offer
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
brands added value.
John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
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COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Connecting Global Compe tence
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NE3 TW
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Lab Africa now organized by analytica BeneďŹ t from the advantages of the world's largest trade fair network for the lab and analysis industry - the analytica cluster - organized by Messe MĂźnchen. Participate in analytica Lab Africa and meet international key players, experience hands-on accompanying events and extend your business.
July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg International Trade Fair for Laboratory Technology, Analysis, Biotechnology and Diagnostics. www.analytica-africa.com
RK
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
Paired, admired and rewarded Celebrating brand owners who ‘challenge the status quo’, the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition awards took place on 11 October at Ferguson’s Fifth Floor in Illovo, Johannesburg. By Abby Vorster
I
t was a night to remember! Thanks
Symrise has been the headline
for personal care ingredients, in-
to Symrise’s senior perfumer, Philippe
sponsor of the New Product Competition
cosmetics will provide Optiphi access
Paparella-Paris, who shared his love
for the past five years and has remained
to high level scientific education and
for fragrance creation in a much
talked about presentation,
for the fragrance development brief and the science of scent, highlighting Symrise’s 2017 green
‘Thank you to all the
DID YOU KNOW?
entitled In Full Bloom. He discussed best practices
truly committed to its growth. contestants for your
This year, two beauty bloggers attended the awards. Joan Hillman of Jems of Natural and Goddess blogger, Susann Deysel posted awards content on social media, along with New Media’s Varushka Padayachi.
chemistry innovation, Lilybelle. Paparella-Paris also treated guests to an
To look back at the highlights on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, search our dedicated hashtag: #BeautyNPC2018. Deysel also reviewed the awards on her blog, www.goddess.co.za.
intimate fragrance pairing with
participation and to the
global consumer insights, as well as the opportunity to meet over 800 suppliers of ingredients, fragrances, lab equipment and testing and regulatory solutions.
judges for your time, input and assessments,’
Competition results
he added. ‘Without you,
Congratulations to all the winners and
the awards evening
runners up in the various categories. The
would not exist!’
results of the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition are as follows:
The highest accolade
This year’s visionary brand
two of his newest perfume creations
was none other than Optiphi. The
– Contrast and Mettisage. Contrast,
professional skin care company
Overall winners Winner: Classic Clarity Serum (Optiphi) First Runner Up:
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submitted two individual entries: its
AWARD WINNERS
reformulated Classic Clarity Serum and the Body Curve Solar Spritz SPF30. The Classic Clarity Serum received the highest accolade of all as the overall winner of the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.
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All the judges agreed that Optiphi is
1
PERFUMER
reaching new frontiers in skin care. The Classic Clarity Serum’s slick packaging, thorough regulatory compliance,
1: The fragrance pairing, featuring Contrast, a salted rose lemonade, Mettisage and the caramel fudge 2: Symrise’s senior perfumer, Philippe Paparella-Paris
2
mindful science-based marketing and effective ingredients blended in a hightech formulation are the main elements that contributed to the product’s win. Delia Greef, Optiphi’s professional
3: Multi-Color South Africa’s technical director, Zoyon Le Sueur and Hannah Rubin of Skin Creamery 4: Zoyon Le Sueur and David Khumalo of Henkel SA 5: Catherine Williams of Urban Labs and Keegan Capito, fragrance business development specialist at Symrise 6: Delia Greef and Keegan Capito
brand executive, accepted the award on behalf of the company. She commented: ‘Thank you for this
with its aromatic rose notes, was skilfully paired with a salted rose lemonade while the gourmand elements of Mettisage were brought forward in combination with a delicious caramel fudge. ‘The New Product Competition awards are about the visionaries who create all the new products that make their way to the consumers,’ said Wesley Irwin, sales director of sub-Saharan Africa for Symrise’s scent and care division.
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prestigious award. Our team loved how every department is highlighted for its individual role that contributed to Optiphi becoming an award-winning skin care brand. Congrats on hosting
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your most successful awards event; everything was perfect!’ A representative from Optiphi will be travelling to Paris, France in 2019, to attend in-cosmetics Global, which takes place from 2 to 4 April. Known as the world’s leading event
6 | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION Category for the second year running. As
strengthening the manufacturing sector,
a result, a representative from Henkel South
creating jobs and boosting the economy.
Africa will be treated to a two night stay in
7 7: Tsakani Mkhabela, Nelisiwe Mazibuko, Synodia Bhasera and David Khumalo of Henkel SA 8: Dimanzi brand ambassador, Tandi Potgieter with Di Thompson of Dimanzi Perfumes 9: Kalahari team: Natalie van Eeden, Yolande Myburgh,Danelle Siepker Carina Franck, Mandy Nortje and Jolene Smit
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the Western Cape, to be wined, dined and
Advice that adds value
taken on a tour of Multi-Color South Africa’s
Now in its 11th year, the New Product
personal care and cosmetics labelling plant
Competition aims to give local and
in Paarl. This prize will give Henkel South
international brands supplied on the
Africa access to expert advice on labelling
South African market, an opportunity to
processes and technologies, promotional
showcase their new products and what
solutions, security features and how to build
makes them innovative.
a brand and drive sales with premium label. Multi-Color South Africa forms part of one of the world’s largest labelling companies,
(Botanichem) and Elizna Hurter (Skinchem);
Multi-Color Corporation. In Africa, it is the
technical and regulatory specialists Percy
largest and most awarded premium label
Sibanda (L’Oréal South Africa) and Jill
printer, supplying the cosmetics, food, craft
Gardiner; and veteran packaging buffs
beer and wine industries.
Clive Glover and Tony de Beer. New to the
South African Star Award
panel was Richard Weir, creative director
To applaud the brand that utilises a
at Gullan & Gullan Digital. The agency has
majority of South African suppliers to
worked with many of the world’s best brands
produce its products, P C Review has
to develop their marketing strategies, with a
introduced the South African Star Award.
particular focus on digital. Weir’s expertise
Each entrant receives a score out of 10
in shaping brands in line with business
based on information submitted on where
objectives proved invaluable in his role as
they source ingredients and all forms of
the marketing judge.
packaging, from printing and labelling to the
9 Schwarzkopf Oil Ultime (Henkel SA) Second Runner Up: Range of Serums (Kalahari Lifestyle) Individual Category Winner: Classic Clarity Serum (Optiphi)
Our 2018 judging panel included formulation experts Robyn Brown
P C Review is grateful for the input
actual components, and their manufacturer
from all the judges, who give of their
(if applicable). The ORS Olive Oil Ethnic hair
time to assess all the entries and provide
care range by Urban Labs was named the
constructive feedback. While this is
first South African Star of the competition.
essential to helping the entrants improve
By developing and manufacturing the
their products and grow their brands, it
ORS Olive Oil range in South Africa, Urban
also ensures the esteemed standard of the
Labs (owned by Dabur South Africa) is
competition is maintained. •
GUESTS
First Runner Up: Body Curve Solar Spritz
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Multi-Color South Africa – www.mcclabel.com/africa_cape Symrise – www.symrise.com
SPF30 (Optiphi) Second Runner Up: Ultra Rich Skin Complex
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(Kalahari Lifestyle) Range Category Winner: Schwarzkopf Oil Ultime (Henkel SA) First Runner Up: Range of Serums (Kalahari Lifestyle) Second Runner Up: Skin Care Range (Skin Creamery) Editor’s Choice Award Winner: Dimanzi Eau de Parfum (Di Thompson) The Packaging Category Winner: Schwarzkopf BC Bonacure Scalp
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10: Roy and Gill Gardiner with Clive and Shirley Glover 11: Elizna Hurter and Robyn Brown 12: Nicola Botes of Avon Justine, Maxine Robertson of Symrise Scent & Care, Philippe Paparella-Paris, and Melonie Thorington and Niki-Jay Bougaard of Avon Justine 13: Helen Da Fonseca of L’Oréal South Africa, Philippe Paparella-Paris, Keegan Capito, Laetitia Ngassa of L’Oréal South Africa and Pearl Boso of Symrise 14: Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review; Beverley Gardner of SkyEm and Wesley Irwin
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Genesis (Henkel SA) First Runner Up: tied between the Skin Care Range (Skin Creamery) and Schwarzkopf Oil Ultime (Henkel SA) Second Runner Up: Classic Clarity Serum (Optiphi) Bringing a new dimension to the competition, Multi-Color South Africa committed to sponsoring the Packaging
12 P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
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NEWS
NEW INHALER PRODUCTION PLANT FOR CIPLA MAROC Dignitaries and executives celebrate the launch of Cipla Maroc with a ribbon cutting ceremony
ON 15 OCTOBER, Cipla Maroc announced the official opening of its manufacturing plant for metered-dose inhalers in Ain Aouda in the Rabat region of Morocco. A total of 60 million dirhams have been invested in this project. This is the first time an industrial unit of this kind has been established in the North African country. The opening ceremony was attended by Anas Doukkali, the country’s minister of health; Dr YK Hamied,
non-executive chairman of Cipla; Niravkumar B Sutariya, second secretary of the Embassy of India in Morocco; Christos Kartalis, Cipla’s executive VP of emerging markets and Europe; Ali Sedrati, GM of the Pharmaceutical Institute (Phi); and Ayman Cheikh Lahlou, GM of Cooper Pharma. Spanning 4 000m², the Cipla Maroc plant has an annual production capacity of 1.5 million HFA metered-dose inhalers. Around 15 references will be manufactured at the site, and 11 will be distributed for the first time in Morocco. The Cipla Maroc industrial unit is built as per the guidelines of the World Health Organization and the European and American regulatory authorities. The facility received regulatory approval from the General
INDUSTRY PARTNERS INNOVATE WITH ROLL-ON FACE CARE SERUM CLARIANT HAS CREATED a skin soothing serum in a roll-on format, which has been sponsored to select tradeshows as gifts for guests. The serum made its debut in Monaco at Luxepack, which took place from 1 to 3 October. The project involved two of Clariant’s business units and four industry partners. The idea was conceptualised by two innovators. Alessandro Pozzati, an industrial designer at the ColorWorks design and technology centre in Milan. The centre forms part of Clariant’s Masterbatches business group. And Katya Spera, sales manager for personal care in Italy for Clariant’s industrial and consumer specialties business unit. ‘Creating an item we can use to promote our ColourForward trend analysis and colour forecasting tool is an annual challenge,’ says Pozzati. ‘This year, our personal care gift not only highlights ColourForward, but also the ingredients marketed by the personal care group.’ The ColorForward 2019 trend called ‘Made in Human’ focuses on humanity’s struggles in an increasingly technological world. That was the creative spark, according to Spera.
‘It seemed to be the perfect match with a restorative serum, called Rhythm N’Blue, offered by Clariant Active Ingredients to repair skin damaged by stress, fatigue, pollution and the effects of blue light exposure,’ she explains. ‘One of the colours in the Made in Human trend, is a soft, soothing turquoise called “Keep Wonder Alive”. We used this colour for the packaging and selected a roll-on format to mimic a massage action when applying the facial product.’ Merck provided the special effect pigment that adds brilliance and a sparkling glitter effect to the Keep Wonder Alive turquoise colour. Italian formulator, Biogei Cosmetics produced the Rhythm N’Blue serum. Italian plastic packaging producer, InduPlast supplied the roll-on container. Graphic designer company, D-Fusion created the label and a website to highlight the project. Rhythm N’Blue also showcases several products from Clariant Active Ingredients. Nipaguard EHP is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent. Artistoflex Silk is a highly compatible thickener or texturiser that delivers a luxury sensory experience. The skin resynchroniser, B-Circadin; Fuligo, which increases skin density and firmness; and the skin-soothing agent, MultiEx BSASM, are also included in the formulation.
The Rhythm N’Blue restorative serum created by Clariant and several industry partners
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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Secretary of Govt on 18 June 2018. Founded in 2015, Cipla Maroc is a joint-venture between Cipla, headquartered in India, and its Moroccan partners, Phi and Cooper Pharma. Cipla’s Kartalis comments: ‘We are proud of this addition to our manufacturing footprint, a first for the region. This not only strengthens our manufacturing, but also our ties with Morocco and Cipla. This factory will leverage Cipla’s expertise and experience in the respiratory inhalation segment to help patients in Morocco and neighbouring regions, in keeping with our purpose of caring for life.’ Phi’s Sedrati and Cooper Pharma’s Lahlou add: ‘Cipla, Phi and Cooper have made a smart investment in Morocco and in the inhaler technology, which is a first for the country and region. This will allow us to significantly reduce our imports of this technology and it will improve our value added products offering for export markets.’
Global aesthetics industry recognition for Environ THE SOUTH AFRICAN BRAND has been named the Top Medical Skin Care company in the prestigious Aesthetic Everything Awards. Based on consumers’ votes, this awards programme forms part of a global competition. It is managed from the USA and recognises excellence across a range of categories. This year’s competition saw more than 30 000 votes cast between September and October as brands and suppliers fought for sought-after titles in the global aesthetics industry. Environ’s prestigious win was also aired on a digital billboard in New York City’s famous Times Square. ‘We are honoured to be named the Top Medical Skin Care Company in the Aesthetic Everything Awards. This recognises our mission to future-proof skins across the globe and the efficacy of our products. Environ helps create the appearance of more youthful, healthy looking and beautiful skin,’ says Dr Des Fernandes, founder and scientific director at Environ Skin Care. The Cape Town-based brand has received over 100 global recognitions and accolades for its outstanding products. These include being awarded the Swiss Vitamin Institute seal, which verifies the strength and efficacy of its vitamin A moisturisers and serums. Since 1990, Environ has used science to change the way the world
Valerie Carstens and Dr Des Fernandes show off Environ’s latest accolade, from the 2018 Aesthetic Everything Awards
sees skin care. Today the brand has over 140 products sold in more than 70 countries. He adds: ‘We have a track record spanning more than 30 years using science to change skin and transform lives. Because I have seen incredible results using vitamin A, I believe everyone can have beautiful skin with this ingredient.’ Environ Skin Care was borne from Dr Fernandes’ vision for innovation and the business savvy of company CEO and chairperson, Valerie Carstens. Today, it continues to build on scientific innovation, leaving a legacy that is celebrated and respected globally. This is achieved through the launch of new innovations based on proven ingredients and powerful formulations.
NEWS
ROOTS 2019 IS LOADING WITH NEW METHODOLOGY SOUTH AFRICA’S LARGEST urban community quantitative survey, Roots, is currently in field. Roots 2019 is set to launch in the first quarter of next year. The new instalment of the survey balances trendability while keeping up to date with current industry developments. ‘Roots 2019 shows what consumers look like, how they behave, where they shop, what media they consume and how they have changed over time,’ says Jacqui Hansen of Spark Media. ‘At a local level and compared to Roots 2016, our new methodology incorporates both LSM and SEM descriptors, painting a more accurate picture of South African communities with a more in depth look at the digital environment.’ Besides the usual datasets of demographics and general info, Roots digs deeply into categories like digital integration, activities, entertainment and many retail categories. ‘The 2019 survey includes interviews with 20 new communities from some
of the total 148 areas across South Africa. A total 26 000 decision makers in homes will be sampled using the pure random sampling method,’ she explains. ‘We have increased the percentage of digital related questions and adapted our methodology to test in real, live environments concurrently with the main study in 2016 and 2019.’ Some of the questions in next year’s survey include which shopping centres are favoured by those living in the northern suburbs of Johannesburg and does selection differ depending on purpose? ‘Roots started in 1984,’ says Gill Randall, Joint CEO of Spark Media. ‘Since then close on 200 000 interviews have been conducted. In 2001, we partnered with TNS, ensuring the past 18 years of data is consistent and trendable at a community level. This year we delve even deeper into digital and technology aspects, which consume so much time and resources of peoples’ lives, on a daily basis.’
WACKER COMMISSIONS CYSTINE PRODUCTION PLANT THE LIFE SCIENCES division of Wacker, Wacker Biosolutions, has started producing fermentation-generated cystine at its new site in León, Spain. Over the past 18 months, the division has modernised part of the fermentation capacity housed within the 800m³ plant, which it acquired at the end of 2016. In addition, Wacker has built a production line for cystine. Capital spending for the site totals some €30 million. In the next few months, the plant will be gradually qualified and ramped up to full capacity. The new site enables Wacker to meet the rising global demand for cystine and the amino acid, cysteine, in the pharma and food industries. ‘With our investment in the León site, we are well equipped to strengthen our position as a global market and technology leader for fermentation-generated cystine,’ says Dr Gerhard
Schmid, head of Wacker Biosolutions. ‘The modernised fermentation plant and the new cystine production plant enable us to reliably meet our customers’ growing demand for cysteine and cystine and to commercialise new fermentation-generated products.’ These ingredients are widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food industries. Cysteine and cystine are known for their free-radical scavenging benefits in cosmetics and are used as an expectorant in cough medicines. According to Wacker, it is the first company in the world to produce cystine by fermentation using a patented biotech process. Due to the entirely plantbased and inorganic nature of the raw materials, the company’s cystine and cysteine are purely vegetarian. This makes them especially safe for use in pharma and food products.
VYTRUS HONOURED FOR FORMULATION INNOVATION PRESENTED DURING THE Cosmetorium conference on 26 September, Vytrus Biotech (Vytrus) won first prize in the Cosmetorium Awards. The conference took place in Barcelona and was organised by the Spanish Association of Cosmetic Chemists. Vytrus was selected from 10 finalists as the winner. The finalists were chosen by a panel of five judges involved in organising the conference while the award was based on innovation in the formulation of a final product. Several factors were evaluated, from ingredients and textures to claims and packaging. The Perfect Touch, Skin Rebalancing and Vitalising Serum formulation, which it entered into the competition, includes the company’s newest active ingredient: Quora NoniPRCF. This active is produced from Noni plant stem cells, which hack the microbiome communication systems to protect skin from conditions such as acne. The composition of the serum protects the skin from imbalances in the microbiome,
The tram from Vytrus Biotech celebrates its Cosmetorium Award
minimising pores and decreasing red spots to provide smoother and healthier looking skin. Perfect Touch is based on the company’s sophisticated strategy to develop more natural and intelligent products that respect the skin and the environment. The Cosmetorium conference in Barcelona brings together industry leaders from Spain’s cosmetics industry, including experts in formulating, manufacturing and distributing cosmetics. One of its goals is to encourage progress and developments in cosmetics science and technology in Spain. The awards seek to support the most innovative efforts and ideas in cosmetics
formulation and offer the exhibiting companies a platform to showcase their innovations. During 2017 and 2018, Vytrus has won or been placed as a finalist in several international industry awards programmes. It won first prize for the active ingredient Capilia LongaPPF in the 2017 Beauty Industry Awards’ category Global Best Bair Care Ingredient. It was also selected as one of 10 finalists in the 2018 in-cosmetics Innovation Awards for Quora NoniPRCF. Quora NoniPRCF, Capilia LongaPPF and the rest of Vytrus Biotech’s active ingredients are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
9
NEWS CO M PLIAN CE CO LU M N Jacqui Faucitt (left) accepts the Professional Beauty trophy for the Best Skin Care Supplier of 2018
Another win for RégimA
PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE brand, RégimA continues to win awards for its products and services. At the Professional Beauty 2018 Awards, which took place on 2 September at The Venue in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, RégimA was named Best Skin Care Supplier, winning this prestigious Industry Award for the second consecutive year. The skin care brand also won the Best Skin Care Supplier award in 2015. ‘We are proud and delighted to be named the Best Skin Care Supplier of 2018. RégimA was just as elated to receive this Professional Beauty Industry Award for two consecutive years, as we were in 2015 when RégimA was named the overall winner of the P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition,’ comments Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RégimA. A unique anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation range, RégimA products are formulated and manufactured specifically for the use of doctors and skin care professionals. According to Professional Beauty, the awards are aimed at raising standards within the industry. They recognise beauty salons, spas, brands and beauty professionals for the passion, care and excellence that owners, managers and staff put into their businesses.
COLAB SEEKS TO VALIDATE A NON-ANIMAL TEST THE INSTITUTE FOR In Vitro Sciences (IIVS), which has an established track record in the validation of alternatives to animal testing, teamed up with BASF and Givaudan. The collaboration focused on validating an improved skin sensitisation reactivity method to address the needs of toxicologists and regulators. Scientists at BASF and Givaudan have developed the Kinetic Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (Kinetic DPRA), a non-animal test, to predict allergic reactions in the skin known as sensitisation. Three other non-animal sensitiser tests have already been accepted internationally. However, the Kinetic DPRA test has the potential to advance beyond providing a yes or no answer to predict the potency of a sensitiser, which is required by some regulatory agencies. Until now, the only way to predict potency classifications was through animal testing. ‘Being able to determine potency with minor modifications of the wellestablished and routinely used DPRA method was highly attractive to us,’ states Dr Robert Landsiedel, vice president of experimental toxicology and ecology at BASF. ‘Once validated, we hope the Kinetic DPRA will remove
10
the need for further animal testing to determine the potency of chemicals. We are pleased that IIVS is joining our efforts to prove the method’s validity.’ Dr Andreas Natsch, head of in vitro molecular screening at Givaudan, adds: ‘Evaluating the potency of skin sensitisers is an essential step in the risk assessment to determine safe use levels, and we have shown that kinetic data is key for this.’ The validation project, designed by BASF and Givaudan, is being conducted throughout this year. Pending a successful outcome, it will be submitted to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development in 2019. We are pleased to be working with BASF and Givaudan again to validate a technology that will be available for many industry sectors and applications,’ says Erin Hill, IIVS’ president. ‘Our ability to participate in such programmes is made possible through the generous support of our contributors.’ Other participating laboratories include The Procter & Gamble Company (developer of the original DPRA), Charles River and the Czech National Institute of Public health.
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Making claims in the face of regulatory uncertainty takes a two-pronged approach in this column, tackling two different but equally important and topical issues pertaining to the cosmetics industry. Jill Gardiner
W
ith the liquidation of the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) comes the question: do cosmetics companies now have carte blanche to make whatever claims they feel fit? No, it’s not that simple to get away with maverick claims. Appendix B – Cosmetics, of the ASA Code, is a code developed and adhered to by the industry and liquidation of the authority will not dilute the responsibility of companies to comply with the code. Self-regulation of advertising is certainly not dead in South Africa and is there to protect the consumer. Launching new products can be a daunting experience in uncertain regulatory times. Companies are advised to stick to common practice when making cosmetics claims in order for business to continue as usual. The recommendations made in the Compliance Columns published in the March ( page 7) and July ( page 8) editions of P C Review still apply. Winning at the labelling game was the title of the first Compliance Column published in September 2017 on page 8. The recent P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition highlighted how lack of attention to detail in the labelling arena can take an absolutely fabulous product and turn it into a regulatory nightmare. So, it’s time for us to revisit labelling requirements. The following is a handy checklist to take into account when launching a new product: • Does the INCI listing on the primary packaging match that on the secondary packaging? • Have you used correct INCI nomenclature? • Did you remember the space between the quantity and the unit of measure when declaring the nominal fill e.g. 50 ml? • Does your product have a batch number for traceability purposes? • Is the copy legible i.e. is there sufficient contrast between the copy and the background colour and is the font size suitable? You will understand how important the small things are if you have ever spent a night in a room with a mosquito. Once bitten twice shy! • Jill Gardiner is an independent industry expert and educator.
1
STREET 2
1 Level up with nude makeup The Sorbet nude makeup palette contains nine natural shades, tones and tints expertly crafted for South African women to take on the world bare-faced and beautiful. Earlier in the year, the salon launched the ongoing campaign Makeup Gets Real. The palette forms part of this campaign so the eye colour, brow powder, highlighter and bronzer allow users to level up their authenticity with perfectly arched brows and cheeks and just the right amount of peach. The palette is available in Clicks stores and select Sorbet salons.
2 Deo brand does body wash In a move set to invigorate the personal care market, well-known deodorant brand Shower to Shower has introduced a range of body washes. The trio is available in Fresh Powder – a shower crème with subtle powder fragrance for velvety soft skin, Fresh Escape – a body wash with aloe vera extract, and Fresh Happiness – a body wash with orange extract and a zesty citrus undertone. All three variants are pH balanced and formulated with tissue oil and multi-vitamins. They are packaged in a 500mℓ bottle with a flip-top lid.
3 Get in the mood
3
4
Lady Prelox is said to be the first proven health supplement in South Africa which addresses sexual function in women. The plant-based dietary supplement incorporates a patented formula that promotes sexual comfort and pleasure. Key ingredients include Pycnogenol botanical extract, the patented rosehip extract Rosvita, L-Arginine natural amino acid and another vital amino acid, L-Citrulline Another. Lady Prelox is available from most leading pharmacies. It is imported into the country by Lamelle Research Laboratories and can also be purchased on its website.
4 Say goodbye to chafing Protect skin from friction related chafing, blisters, rashes and sores with Wintergreen’s Anti-Chafe Cream. The cream creates an effective and long lasting barrier, protecting the skin from chafing as a result of moisture, sweat and friction. It goes on smooth and silky, is waterproof, has natural antifungal and antiseptic properties and is formulated with tea tree oil and shea butter. Wintergreen Anti-
5
Chafe cream is sold in a 75mℓ tube or a 500mℓ tub, at leading retailers or online, at www.wintergreen.co.za.
5 Ready, set, sweat! Inspired by the athleisure trend and formulated specifically for skin that sweats, Oolala Sweat is a genderless skin care range for men and women who love to workout. The range includes three products for a pre- and post-workout skin care regime and can be used as an effective daily routine, even on non-workout days. The three in one activated charcoal product cleanses, tones and exfoliates the skin. The cucumber and juniper berry mist keeps the face hydrated and there is an SPF15 daily moisturiser. P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
11
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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
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EVENTS
Grow from knowledge The African continent is one of the most exciting new markets for growth. While there is immense potential for brand and supplier development in its home and personal care industries, barriers exist, such as nonharmonised regulations and access to forex. By Abby Vorster
H
on trading in Africa
launched in the future. Hypermarket and
demand results and often want to see them
super market stores are the most popular
immediately, which leaves hydroquinone in
in Kenya.
a league of its own as alternative solutions on the market are not nearly as effective. •
In Cameroon, consumers turn to beauty specialist retailers for all their hair and skin care needs while the bustling Saturday and Sunday markets are where most Ethiopians purchase their home care products. For home and personal care manufacturers, sourcing quality raw materials is a common challenge while
1: Zdenek Toman of Dabur South Africa, Eyoel Shewangizaw of East African Lion Brands Industries and Will Coetsee of Botanica Natural Products 2: Uchenna Nwakanma of PZ Cussons Nigeria 3: Rubarb Abdoolla of Euromonitor International 4: Simonne Solarsh of IntrisicurlyMe with Chantel McCallum and Christein Gordon of Croda South Africa 5: Adelia Pimentel of the CTFA and Mark Hobbs of Indigo Brands
those based in east Africa say access air care is the biggest category
to forex is their biggest hurdle. The
in Africa’s personal care
recent recession in Nigeria saw many
industry, followed closely by skin
manufacturers co-creating with their
care. Categories such as bath
suppliers in order to lock down volumes
and shower, colour cosmetics and male grooming are growing, while baby care
and guarantee supply. Often the ingredients purchased from
and sun care are among the smallest.
suppliers in China are of a substandard
Urban women consume the most
quality or the contents differ from what’s
hair and skin care products and are
stated on the packaging label. This puts
perceived to have great influence in
both the manufacturer and consumers
driving developments in both categories.
at risk, sparking the demand for South
Yet their preferences differ from one
African suppliers to develop regional
African country to the next. This makes it
partnerships to open up access to
crucial for brand owners, manufacturers
raw materials.
and their suppliers to adopt a country
Government regulations also differ
specific approach when doing business
in most African countries. This is another
in Africa. Ways to do so were discussed at
area where regional partnerships are
the Africa Home & Personal Care Markets
ideal to help local suppliers avoid issues
summit, which took place on 26 and 27
when exporting.
2
September at the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg. Delegates from Africa and the
According to Uchenna Nwakanma, head of R&D at PZ Cussons Nigeria, Nigerians
the event, organised by Singapore’s
are highly hygiene conscious. They
Centre for Management Technology.
favour home care products with antiseptic and anti-bacterial claims and are
from South Africa and various east
driven by cues such as the fragrance
and west African countries. Their
of a product. For example, Nigerians
presentations provided in depth insight
perceive a pine oil fragranced product
into Africa’s unconventional distribution
as effective because they connect this
channels, the trends in various market
smell to the smell of a hospital.
segments and challenges regarding raw materials sourcing.
3
The hygiene factor
world as well as local guests attended
The programme featured speakers
1
4
They also connect better with brands that convey a wellness message, with most Nigerians interested in skin care
Channels and challenges
products that restore their natural beauty.
In Nigeria, bulk sales occur in outdoor
Nwakanma says this is because they
markets, with chain store growth highly
are well aware of the negative effects of
evident in Lagos. There are currently 22
hydroquinone and are shying away from
Shoprite Checkers located throughout
skin lightening. Unfortunately, Nigerian
the country with more stores to be
women, like other women worldwide,
5
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
13
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
A World Tour Through Scent
A
s part of the 10th edition of the Rives de la beauté, located at the Galerie Joseph, in Paris, France,
Symrise presented A World Tour Through Scent from 19 to 23 September. This project unites the fragrance house Symrise, the magazine Nez and photographers of the Tendance Floue group, to reveal a global cultural cartography of olfaction. For several months, 13 Symrise perfumers visited 11 destinations around the world, accompanied by a reporter and a photographer to discover global scents and olfactory cultures. These trips have inspired 12 olfactory scents and 11 photographic white cards analysing the representation of odours and olfactory concepts.
Stronger than ever According to Véronique Ferval, Symrise’s VP of creation, global fine fragrance, the company is strengthening its fine fragrance perfume team with three young talents from the Symrise perfumery school: Leslie Gauthier, Marine Ipert and Suzy Le Helley. Master perfumer, Annick Ménardo, will also be joining Symrise. An extra-ordinary scent creator, Ménardo has marked contemporary perfumery with iconic creations such as Lolita Lempicka, Dior Bois d’Argent, Dior Hypnotic Poison, Hugo Boss Boss Bottled, YSL Body Kouros, Bulgari Black and Calvin Klein Women. ‘We are all super excited to have Ménardo with us, she
Symrise continues to shape a new era in fragrance. Its newest developments are five new De Laire bases; Philyra – an AI based perfumery project; and a strategic partnership with Payan Bertrand.
is an amazing perfumer who has created unbelievable icons. She has the right personality to help drive our fine fragrance vision and to become the game changer we are aiming to be in the industry,’ says Ferval.
A strategic partnership To expand its range of exceptional natural ingredients, Symrise is entering a new and exclusive partnership with Payan Bertrand, a producer of raw materials based in Grasse, France. While Ricardo Omori, senior VP global fine fragrance at Symrise revealed this partnership globally, Wesley Irwin, sales director of Symrise’s scent and care division, shared the news with the local industry, at the P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition Awards. ‘It will allow Symrise to expand our palette by highlighting the most beautiful and unique ingredients in the fine fragrance and perfumery industry,’ he comments. ‘It’s an exclusive association, which filters through to the business in South Africa and Symrise will be putting resources into Payan Bertrand to maximise capabilities to take the global business to a new level in fine fragrance development.’ Investments in into its team of perfumers and raw materials offering will provide Symrise’s fine fragrance business unit a solid base for the next year’s growth path and confirms its position as a key player in fine perfumery.
14
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Véronique Ferval
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
new De Laire bases - Poivre Pique DL is a
osmanthus brings richness and character for a powerful fruity refinement.
return to luxury craftsmanship; a black gem artfully created with
- Mousse De Saxe 18 DL, the
the precision of a hand-stitched
most iconic De Laire moss, marks the
haute couture piece. Its olfactive
return of the iconic vintage scent
impact is realised with the fusion of black pepper and neon aniseed. The
modernised with an elegant silver
burst of adrenaline and a biting freshness
touch. Its olfactive impact is a
are expressed by the vibrant aromatic flash of
refined and deep mossy note
Symrise’s captive, Belanis. A piercing and incisive
draped in a marbled leather
pepper give a contrasted magnetic freshness in
with shimmering powdery facets. The underwood and dewy effect
this base.
of the Absolu Fucus is illuminated
- Tubeliane DL enchants with exquisite floralcy.
and enlivened with Spicatanate, the sparkling captive from Symrise.
This base re-examines the iconic Tuberiane base of the ’60s, reviving its heady charms. Its olfactive impact is a very
- Tabac Bourbon DL, a
textured white flower, delicate and airy, with a touch if green earthiness to capture the naturality and exquisite
supreme smoky signature, is
quality of the tuberose heart. Fresh, green and dewy,
an exquisite tobacco note
Symrise’s captive Lilybelle gives the base a lift and ray
infused with a vintage liquor blend warmed up with the
of luminosity.
most precious spices of madagascar, vanilla and
- You can taste the new fruity addiction in
Osmanthus Guilin DL. This
cinnamon. It dares to embrace the warmth of Tabanone Coeur,
delicate and addictive osmanthus with
which captures the essence of
iris powder and violet flowers gives
burning tobacco leaves rounded off by
a velvety skin touch. It is extremely
the unique sweetness and delicacy of Symrise’s
soft and round, contrasted with the succulent smell of apricot flesh and
captive, Tonkalactone. This De Laire base is a Grand
juicy pear from Symrise’s captive,
Cru of tobacco – a shot of intriguing character and dark opulence.
Pearadise. The signature of this
Breaking new fragrance ground with AI In partnership with IBM Research,
the design process,’ says Achim Daub,
fragrance note and improve how long it
Symrise is using artificial intelligence
president of Symrise Scent & Care.
lasts on skin.
(AI) to create perfumes based on digital
Creating fragrances requires highly
‘Perfumery is an ancient art. It moves
fragrance models. The project is called
detailed precision – even if the system
slowly through history and can seem
Philyra. The first phase will result in two
deviates only minimally from the
unchanged for centuries. But there
fragrances created for O Boticario which
specified amounts, it either makes or
are moments of historic significance
will be brought to market in 2019.
breaks a new perfume. Philyra uses a
that are undeniable. The last great
data-driven approach and accesses
explosion of innovation began in the
winning perfume has been something
a gigantic data bank consisting of
late 19 th century with the introduction of
Symrise has been doing for more than
fragrance formulas; fragrance families
synthetic fragrance raw materials into
200 years. Now our perfumers can work
such as fruity, oriental or flowery; as well
the perfumer’s pallet. AI is quite simply
directly with an AI apprentice, who can
as historical information.
the next frontier of perfumery innovation
‘The art and science of designing a
analyse thousands of formulas and
Symrise perfumer, David Apel from the
and discovery. Watching it unfold and
historical data to identify patterns and
New York Studio is the first to work with
helping direct it is a privilege and the
predict novel combinations. This will help
Philyra, using and minimally tweaking
most significant milestone in my career,’
to increase productivity and accelerate
the suggestions to emphasise a certain
states Apel.
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
15
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
English Leather steps out in a feminine number Provocative and captivating, Fisher Brands has launched English Leather Woman. Developed and produced in South Africa in line with international standards, the new fragrance range has been made possible through solid relationships with suppliers, which offer consistently high quality products and services. By Abby Vorster
DKNY and Hugo Boss. We have four variants
perfumers with a greater understanding of
in our English Leather fragrance range for
the fine fragrance market in South Africa.’
men which jointly appeal to most male
A total of 30 fragrances were tested
consumer age groups. I felt the time was
among 500 demographically correct
right to expand the brand into the female
perfume users over a period of six
market and what better way to do so, than
months. Of the 30 fragrances, four are
with English Leather Woman,’ says company
among the top sellers in South Africa,
MD, Mike Fisher. ‘The vision
including D&G Light Blue, Red Door,
was to create a fragrance that defines the essence of women. Fittingly, our new fragrance has
M ike Fis her and Linda De Andrade
Black XS and Avon’s Far Away while the remaining 26 were new creations
been designed by a woman
selected in Paris. All the
for women.’
samples were coded and
Following extensive
randomly selected by the
consumer research
participants in a simulated
conducted by Symrise into
retail environment. The
the perfume preferences of
selection process ran for
long standing South African
South African consumers,
two-week intervals over
brand, English Leather has
Symscent proactively
six months.
been a market leader in the
submitted a series of new
male masstige fragrance
product ideas to Fisher Brands, which
available as English Leather Woman, was
category for over half a century. Current
led to the development of English
one of the top performers in this consumer
market trends prompted the fragrance
Leather Woman.
research project,’ adds Reynolds.
A
house, Fisher Brands, to cross the divide
Margaret Reynolds of Symscent
‘The fragrance, now
Characterised by its floral, ambery
and launch its first female fragrance
comments: ‘As the official Symrise
scent, English Leather Woman
under the English Leather umbrella.
distributor, we have access to the
encompasses a melting pot of intriguing
fragrance oils used in the consumer
notes to trigger the senses at various
female fragrances within the same brand
research. The project was initiated
levels. The top notes are based on
works extremely well for many successful
at the request of Symrise’s team in Paris,
a blend of fruit infusions including
international brands such as Calvin Klein,
France, which sought to provide global
bergamot and Asian mandarin, which
‘The cross link between male and
16
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS set a tantalising tone. Florals such as
Conceptualised by Sorted Design &
exotic orchid, ylang ylang and jasmine
Advertising in Cape Town, it features
form the heart of the fragrance,
the signature English Leather saddle
exuding sophistication and playful
logo on a subtle antique rose, leather-
intrigue. It settles with an intoxicating
look print.
fusion of amber, vanilla, musk and
We are a relatively small, family business and consider our suppliers part of this family
‘We are a relatively small, family
Tonka bean base notes, making it the
business and consider our suppliers
perfect aromatic accessory for the all-
part of this family,’ Fisher explains.
encompassing woman.
‘They have all shared in the excitement of the English Leather
Good relationships matter
Woman project, anticipating the
English Leather Woman is available in a
completion of various finished
30 and 50mℓ eau de parfum and a 90mℓ
products and their sell-through.
aromatic compounds in the solvent.
parfum body mist. There is a limited edition
Although it’s early days, it’s already
The use of a high concentration
promotional launch offer, consisting of the
exceeding expectations.’
of fragrance oils is an undeniable
parfum body mist and an eau de parfum fragrance wand. With Christmas around
selected for the two different
the corner, Fisher Brands has also created
sized eau de parfum
an exclusive three piece gift set that
products. The bottle is flat
includes an eau de parfum, parfum body
and bulbous in design
mist and a hand and nail treatment.
and features a clear
The packaging design for the English
lid. To complement
Leather Woman cartons, labels and
the soft pink hue of the
shrink sleeves is simple yet sophisticated.
magical liquid within the bottle, an antique
The exclusive, three piece English Leather Woman gift set
feature of all Fisher Brands’
A heavy-based glass bottle was
DID YOU KNOW?
fragrances, which are known for their intensity and
The English Leather brand has a strong presence in the South African market. The original English Leather fragrance for men is still a classic; English Leather Woman is expected to follow suit with its elegance and intrigue.
style rose-coloured ribbon
scent longevity.’ Based in Johannesburg, Remancos is home to a state of the art manufacturing plant and laboratory and an adjacent packing facility.
The company offers custom,
is tied around its neck. The bottle, atomiser and cap are all
third party solutions, including
supplied by Moco Packaging
formulation development, stability and
while the eau de parfum
safety testing, blending and filling,
products are manufactured and
sourcing of packaging and graphic
packed by Remancos.
design services. Kalil and her team are also
‘The pure fragrance oil supplied by Symscent is
responsible for formulating and
formulated into a solvent
manufacturing the limited edition
and stability tested by us,’
hand and nail treatment. The cream
says Candice Kalil, owner of
is fragranced with the unique English
Remancos. ‘We also fill the
Leather Woman scent and formulated
fragrance and crimp the bottles
with ingredients to moisturise the skin
on site. The perfume is classified
and nourish the nails. It is packed in a
as an “eau de parfum” due
75mℓ tube with a self-adhesive label
to the high concentration of
supplied by Zippy Labels.
Distributors of Fine Fragrances
Proudly appointed distributor of Symrise Fragrances, Cosmetic Ingredients and Aroma Molecules
Tel: 011 791 0312 | Fax : 086 273 2283 sales@symscent.co.za | www.symscent.co.za
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
17
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
We take pride in being a supplier to high value brands such as Fisher Brands
A perfect print According to Maryke Thomas, co-owner of Zippy Labels, tube applications are a challenge in that the tube is squeezed and released. ‘This requires the use of a polyethylene self-adhesive material for the label because of its forgiving stretch properties,’ she explains. ‘With the squeeze and release function of a tube, the label is put under stress. Using polyethylene allows
Daniel Hanson, co-owner of ISW says the size and choice of the material ensures the best shrink possible, giving a tight fit on the aerosol can, preventing any distortion. ‘There are many benefits to using shrink sleeves instead of printed cans, particularly from a flexibility perspective. The minimum order requirements of printed cans are generally quite high and additional space is needed to store the
the label to return to its former state with
of the self-adhesive label market due to
empty cans. Shrink sleeves give the brand
minimal wrinkling.’
our broad range of printing capabilities,’
owner and manufacturer the flexibility
says Thomas. ‘Our modern and diverse
to produce smaller runs, which is often
labels, Zippy Labels produced the ‘limited
label printing plant, based in Germiston,
the requirement when launching a new
offer’ labels. Both are printed on a state
includes the HP Indigo as well as a versatile
product,’ he explains.
of the art HP Indigo WS6800 seven colour
MPS EF340 eight colour flexographic label
digital press. It also produced a banded
press and a Mark Andy P3 eight colour
cover the cans and they can tear or scuff
pack sleeve, which is printed on a
performance series flexographic press.
during transport or when products are being
flexographic label press.
Digitally printed labels eliminates the need
packed on shelves. The graphics on shrink
for printing plates, saving clients these
sleeves are protected from scuffing because
which has been printing labels for the past
costs. The digital printing press gives us the
they are reverse printed. By completely
24 years. ‘Our company is at the forefront
versatility to offer a wide range of printed
wrapping the can, shrink sleeves give the
products from high quality labels and
look and feel of a printed aerosol, improving
sachets to sleeves and pallet wraps. It also
the shelf appeal of products. Depending
speeds up our turnaround time.’
on the budget, they can be printed with
In addition to the self-adhesive tube
Zippy Labels is a family owned business,
English Leather Woman 50mℓ
Traditional labels cannot completely
Zippy Labels is honoured to have
ENGLISH LEATHER WOMAN’S OLFACTIVE FAMILY AND NOTES
been selected to print various labels for the prestigious English Leather Woman launch. It has worked with the brand owner on many projects in the past, meeting Fisher Brands’ printing requirements in line with the latest trends in labelling cosmetics products.
• Family – florential • Sub-family – ambery
The beauty of shrink sleeves
• Specifier – orange flower
The parfum body mist is packaged in a 90mℓ aerosol can that is filled by Chemlink, in Randvaal, south of Johannesburg. The can features a four-colour 40 micron PVC shrink sleeve, printed by Innovation Shrink & Wrap (ISW) on an eight colour MPS EPW560 UV flexographic press. Remancos P&C 177x65mm Quarter page copy.pdf
1
2018/01/29
• Top notes – bergamot, green, peach, plum and mandarin • Mid notes – orange flower, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, carnation, orris and orchid • Base notes – sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla, amber, musk and Tonka bean.
10:51 AM
WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR LINE UTILISING OUR: • • • •
Remancos Nature is our business | www.remancos.co.za
Formulation Development In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling
• • • •
Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting
RESEARCH & MANUFACTURING COSMETICS
we make your dreams a reality. Tel : +27 11 791 3757 | Cell: +27 745 648268 | Fax : 086 547 1959 ADDRESS:
Unit E2, Metropolitan Park, Wakis Ave. Strijdom park, Jhb. 2196 South Africa Email: candicekalil@remancos.co.za
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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS The body mist
thermochromic, holographic
as one of the classic
manufactured fragrances developed using
and high lustre metallic finishes
fragrance brands for men.
essential oils from leading international
or a specialised multi perforation
‘This is particularly evident
suppliers that are focused on growing
finish can be added for
in South Africa, where the
their market share beyond traditional
promotional items.
brand continues to grow and
markets. ‘Although our fragrances are of an
expand with updated variants
international quality, they are realistically
printer, ISW specialises in highly
to suit new generations and
priced,’ De Andrade adds.
decorative shrink sleeves and
trends,’ comments Fisher
‘The success of English Leather Woman
flexible packaging. The company
Brands’ national sales and
will be the springboard for further line
is proud to be a preferred supplier
marketing manager, Linda
extensions or new launches in the female
to Fisher Brands. It not only
De Andrade. ‘A noteworthy
fragrance category. We are keen to
produces shrink sleeves for the
feature of any English Leather
expand in this category as new market
new parfum body mist but also
fragrance is its long-lasting
trends evolve.’ •
for all the company’s existing
scent, which provides all
English Leather, Integrity, Ensign,
day freshness.
As a leading flexographic
Michaelgameplan, Bondi Blu and Thumbelina aerosol products. ‘We take pride in being a
As a result, the original fragrance is still a firm favourite for the more mature
supplier to high value brands
man. This attribute has
such as Fisher Brands and in
passed on a desire from
seeing their products stand out on
father to son to continue the
retail shelves,’ adds Hanson.
English Leather legacy, with each generation using one
A fragrance legacy
or more of the fragrance
English Leather has stood the
variations available.’
test of time. It was launched in 1957 in the USA and is regarded
Fisher Brands provides African consumers with locally
Chemlink – richardh@carbotec.co.za Fisher Brands – www.fisherbrands.co.za Innovation Shrink & Wrap – www.iswshrink.co.za Moco Packaging – www.mocopack.co.za Remancos – www.remancos.co.za Sorted Design & Advertising – www.sortedadvertising.co.za Symscent – margaret@symscent.co.za Zippy Labels – www.zippylabels.co.za
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
19
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
Good for the body,
soul and perfumery
The desire for natural ingredients, ethical luxury and sustainable consumption are key trends in the beauty and fragrance market. It takes a special kind of expertise to preserve naturalness in these products. Düllberg Konzentra explains how it’s achieved with essential oils.
N
ature may be free for all,
students and the ‘creative class’ – all
but naturalness is more valuable than ever. The desire for
naturalness in cosmetics and perfumery – giving exclusive essential oils a chance to take centre stage. Is there a principle that defines desire? If there is, it
of whom are status-driven pleasureseekers – are key trendsetters.
DID YOU KNOW?
In the past, cars were
On request, Düllberg Konzentra can manufacture essential oils and pharma ingredient compositions in accordance with the European Pharmacopoeia and GMP for capsules, cough syrups and suspensions, tablet coatings and nutraceuticals.
harnessing their benefits in body care, cosmetics and perfumery,’ he adds. This presents challenges, as Lüke
expression. Now, the
knows very well: ‘Essential oils and
focus is on sustainable,
complex mixtures of terpenoids and
conscious consumerism
other compounds are obtained from
– a mindset in which
various parts of plants, such as flowers,
naturalness plays an
leaves, seeds and resins. The complex
especially prominent role.
composition of essential oils makes
‘Naturalness, including
obtaining and processing them a
natural ingredients for beauty
own sphere, the stronger the desire
on using these traditional ingredients and
a means of personal
could be summed up as ‘the further something is from one’s
even cancer. Yet the main focus remains
demanding and unique task.’
products, is a form of ethical luxury
to possess it, influencing the demand’.
that shuns waste and instead focuses
Consistent quality is key
This could explain why the longing
on conscious, mindful pleasure,’ says
Düllberg Konzentra’s portfolio includes
for the countryside, for nature and
Christian Lüke, marketing and R&D
several hundreds of botanical ingredients
naturalness is particularly pronounced
director at Düllberg Konzentra. This
and essential oils in different qualities, from
amongst urban populations. The
Hamburg-based fragrance company
certified organic and refined to completely
seed of the organic trend was sown in
has been supplying natural essential
natural. They are used in fine perfumery,
the cities – from here it has flourished
oils to beauty and fragrance brands
premium niche perfumery, household
much like superfoods, veganism and
for over 75 years. ‘For centuries, natural
perfumery, cosmetics products and in
natural skin care.
essential oils were almost exclusively
pharmaceuticals and aromatherapy.
used in medicine and healthcare.
The trendsetters
Modern aromatherapy first emerged
Due to the heterogeneous composition of the different oils, working with them
Big cities are ‘the laboratories of new
at the beginning of the 20th century.
developments’, according to the
Now, serious scientific research is being
The company also has a portfolio of
market research institute, GfK. Singles;
conducted into the effects of essential
so-called ‘natura fragrances’, which are
DINKS or double income, no kids;
oils, for instance on viruses, bacteria and
natural oil blends eligible for certification
Zinplex Cosmeceutical Advert.pdf 1 2018/10/29 15:29:25
demands considerable perfumery expertise.
Manufacturers of cosmetic, hair & body products from development to production
C
M
Y
MY
R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service • mark
CY
registered • Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place.
CM
Production capabilities: Hair, Body and Skin Care, Liquid Sachet filling, Creams, Lotions, Butters, Gels and Oils.
CMY
K
Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd • t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e: cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za
20
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Bottling of still mineral water Personalised labels available for any occasion Terms and Conditions Apply
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS in accordance with the major bodies, including COSMOS, Eco-Cert and NATRUE. These
ESSENTIAL OILS – THE BESTSELLERS • Eucalyptus globulus grows in Australia, the
blends are ideally
Mediterranean, India and South America. Eucalyptus
suited for use in
essential oil is obtained from the leaves through
organic cosmetics.
steam distillation; the oil content is about two
Lüke is delighted
percent. Eucalyptus has a revitalising and refreshing
about the rising interest
effect on the mind, it can help boost concentration
in exclusive, natural essential oils: ‘The market
and assist in treating colds. • Lavandula officinalis or Lavandula Angustifolia are
and the demand for these
popular in aromatherapy. Lavender essential oil has
products will continue to grow.
a balancing, relaxing and antispasmodic effect and
However, it is important to remember that
it can promote sleep. It is also used to help alleviate
purity, authenticity and a consistently
asthma. The essential oil is obtained by steam
high and standardised quality play
distillation of the herb; the oil content of the plant and
a very important role, particularly for natural products. At Düllberg Konzentra
flowers is about one percent. • Mentha piperita grows worldwide, including Europe,
we are acknowledged specialists. Any
Asia and North and South America. Peppermint
brand that aims to offer consumers
essential oil is widely used in aromatherapy for its
natural luxury is in the best possible
refreshing, clarifying and cooling effects. It can boost
hands with us.’ •
concentration. Medically, it is also used to assist with treating asthma and colds. The essential oil
Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.de/en
is obtained by steam distillation of the herb; its oil content is approximately two percent.
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
21
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
SA’s fragrant future lies in niche perfumery
T
he global fragrance market is
A nose for niche
shifting. Mass market fragrance
Like most global fragrance markets, in
growth has slowed down, making
South Africa the premium segment is mainly
way for more premium offerings.
dominated by multinationals. However, the
These changes are also driven by market demand leaning more towards niche products. By 2020, fragrances are expected to
niche segment is yet to be fully developed. Argeville, a fragrances and flavours producer, believes the emergent niche category might present some of the greatest
represent 33 percent in value of overall
growth prospects for local manufacturers
beauty and personal care sales in
and suppliers. This is because creativity,
South Africa. Solid growth is anticipated
high end product development and batch
for premium fragrances. According to
manufacturing of smaller volumes are
Euromonitor International, between 2018
already standard within the industry.
1 1: Classically packaged, the Ambrette & Gingembre Eau de Parfum and Ambrette & Violette scented candle are fragranced with perfume oils from Argeville 2: Based on patchouli, Argeville displays its Les BaBas Cool perfumery compound and a scented candle
2
and 2020, sales of premium women’s
Established in 1921, in the south of
fragrances are expected to rise by 26
France, Argeville first started its business
room fragrances, detergents and household
percent while the market for men’s
by farming and producing natural raw
products and for industrial applications.
will stabilise.
materials for perfumery. Today, it is ranked
Argeville’s core markets are EDTs, personal
Even when compared to Euromonitor’s
the third largest French company active in
care and soaps and its South African
estimates for the period 2009 to 2014 – which
the production of perfumery raw materials,
partner and distributor is Carst & Walker. •
stated Middle East and Africa contributed
perfumery compounds and food flavours.
31 percent of the global market’s growth –
It supplies perfumery compounds into
there is still immense potential to develop the
various industry segments, including EDTs,
South African fragrance market.
cosmetics and toiletries, home care and
Argeville – www.argeville.com Carst & Walker – aurora.pakkies@carst.co.za
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
22
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
New scent boosting technology
The demand for intense and long-lasting fragrance creations is not limited to perfumery but also a requirement in laundry and household care applications. Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA reveal its newest high-performance delivery systems.
T
o make fragrances more intense and last longer, Bell Flavors
can enjoy their favourite fresh fragrance from the moment they open
& Fragrances EMEA (Bell) continues to research and develop
the washing machine, while folding laundry and days later when
different fragrance delivery systems. Its products and
wearing their clothing.
technologies are available in South Africa from Fourchem.
‘In addition to our liquid perfume oils, our development efforts are
focused on solid fragrances,’ explains chief application technician,
Bell develops its technologies in close cooperation with its customers. Bell MikroBurst, for example, can be used in both laundry and personal care products.
Peter Rabke. ‘With the aim of revolutionising the fragrance industry with high performance products, we’ve developed capsule
Scented candles
technology for a variety of applications. This enables, among other
Scenti Masterbatch technology from Bell is a quality solid fragrance
things, an above average concentration of perfume oil.’
product developed specifically for candles. The special composition prevents the perfume from leaching from the candle even at high
Laundry care with a kick
fragrance concentrations. This prolongs the shelf life of the candle
Bell MikroBurst, a patented microcapsule solution, doesn’t break
during storage and ensures the scent is released only when the
down during the washing cycle. Instead it constantly releases a scent.
candle is burning.
Combined with the Bell Laundry Pearls laundry perfume, which is added directly to the washing drum, manufacturers can tailor the
With this technology, Bell offers manufacturers a solution to achieve premium quality in the scented candles market. •
laundry care system to their needs. The entire portfolio offered by the fragrance company can be incorporated into sophisticated laundry care products. Consumers
Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – www.bell-europe.com Fourchem – www.fourchem.co.za
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
23
PHARMA FOCUS//Aseptic Processing
Prevent contamination and increase productivity
Mitigating contamination risks in critical environments are central to producing safe and effective medicines. When it comes to healthcare, consumer trust is won by producing effective remedies and, in equal measure, on the safety record of the pharmaceutical manufacturer.
S
tandards in cleanroom manufacturing environments have evolved in tandem with medical and pharma
technology, placing specialised cleaning to ensure safety and hygiene, under the spotlight. Industrial cleaning equipment company, Nilfisk takes pride in the role it plays in helping pharma manufacturers comply with stringent industry requirements. Amongst other Nilfisk’s industrial vacuum range for wet and dry applications is an ideal choice for cleanrooms and pharma manufacturing environments
services, the company can provide ISO 4-certified air filtration systems for its clients. All Nilfisk machinery designed for
air entering the cleanroom, as well as
compact and easy to clean design.
the pharma industry is proven to be
any dust or particles produced in the
With the walk-behind scrubber dryer
highly reliable and made of premium
manufacturing process that could harm
series, floors are deep-cleaned and
quality materials.
human operators.
dried in a single pass, even in small and
Nilfisk has the expertise and
congested areas.
Customisation and training
resources to develop products
The task of preventing contamination is
according to customers’ needs. Its
requirements, the Nilfisk Ecoflex system
immense, but it’s not insurmountable.
automated, enclosed pneumatic
allows for a temporary boost of water and
Filters for high (HEPA) and ultra-high
conveyors used to feed processing
detergent, depending on the size of the task
efficiency (ULPA) are essential elements
machines are a key example of its
at hand.
of a cleanroom, depending on the
ability to customise solutions.
nature of the contaminants to be
For more aggressive cleaning
The buildings that house pharma production facilities also need to be kept
controlled. In Nilfisk’s experience,
Clean and hygienic
clean, making them another vital factor
focusing on key elements will help keep
Large particles and dirt within a
in contributing to contamination-free
the manufacturing line and its environs
manufacturing facility can be eliminated
production environments.
free of contaminants.
by deep-cleaning floors and using
Continuous training is necessary and critical in minimising human error. Operators may tend to override or forget
specialised equipment certified for use
DID YOU KNOW?
in ISO 4 cleanrooms.
The task of eliminating contamination becomes difficult if the environments in which staff operate are not kept sufficiently
This same machinery is
clean. This includes the need for proper
equally suited to maintaining
lighting and ventilation and efficiently
Control of the introduction hygiene standards on a of contamination into a be programmed into packaging line. cleanroom is the most critical automated systems. Nilfisk’s walk-behind concern for the entire cleaning The training of staff scrubber dryer series has and disinfection process. should be underpinned proven to be effective Source: PDA Technical by strict rules and protocols in various areas within a Report No. 70 that prescribe processes and pharmaceutical facility, from
designed work areas conducive to an easy
actions to prevent contamination
are sophisticated and high-tech, pharma
the fail-safes that can
small to medium laboratories and
and regular cleaning regime. Maintaining the strict standards required in pharma manufacturing can be challenging. Yet, with the right attitude, validated processes and by partnering with suppliers of approved solutions that
through human error. With proper
around a production site. This series
companies and R&D laboratories can not
protocols in place, specific focus can be
assures maximum hygiene in the shortest
only attain but also maintain compliant
placed on keeping the manufacturing
time possible – which is key during
safety standards. •
environment clean. This requires a
changeover to minimise downtime. It
targeted approach that includes filtering
also offers comfort and productivity in a
24
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Nilfisk – www.nilfisk.co.za
Pharma in focus - Dedicated vacuum and cleaning solutions
In the demanding world of pharmaceutical production, Nilfisk’s range of specialist equipment has what it takes to keep your business safe, hygienic and productive. From powder, granule and capsule conveyance, dust containment, the recovery of packaging scraps or powder from process machines, right down to the cleaning of clean rooms, floors and equipment – Nilfisk can help you create the safe, efficient and hygienic environment that such a demanding industry requires. See how we can help your business.
www.nilfisk.co.za
PHARMA FOCUS//Aseptic Processing
Guarantee sterility and maximise efficiencies Marchesini has been providing the pharma industry with automated solutions for decades. Its expanded aseptic processing portfolio includes a new Stery-La model and an alu-capping machine, Capsy-LC, for small volume parenteral products.
A
lthough it’s new, Stery-La boasts
A custom designed system has been
As a result of its ‘Made in Italy’ design,
the traditional Marchesini
installed to manage the rubber stoppers,
the machine not only complies with the
vertical balcony design, which
even when the stoppers stick. The stopper
regulations for manufacturing injectables,
perfectly separates the filling
pre-infeed and infeed systems have been
but also halves washing, drying and
process from the mechanical components,
integrated into the machine to ensure the
bio-decontamination times compared to
located at the back of the machine.
highest possible standards of accessibility
conventional machines.
The laminar flow has reached the highest possible level of efficiency to ensure product
and ergonomics. The Stery-La features an Isol-Air isolator,
Once filled by Stery-La, the vial containing the liquid product is sent to the Capsy-LC for
sterility. The balcony technology also makes
which can be supplied together with the
it possible to discharge or recover the
air conditioning system (HVAC), sized to
air from the laminar air flow, through the
cut the decontamination cycle times, with
Lyo drugs, half stoppered vials can by-
bottom. This ensures a uniform flow of air
hydrogen peroxide vapours. With these
pass the capping station to be fed to the
without dead zones or turbulence. It also
special features, Stery-La complies with the
automatic loading system of a freeze dryer.
makes it much easier to clean the machine.
regulatory requirements for manufacturing
Once lyophilised, full stoppered vials return
Combined with the peristaltic pumps
injectables. Water consumption is reduced
from the freeze dryer and run along the
and rotary piston pumps installed on
during the wash in place cycle, especially
internal by-pass conveyor in the opposite
Stery-La complies with the regulatory requirements for manufacturing injectables
in the case of isolated filling lines for potent
direction to be fed to the capping station.
drugs – and drying and decontamination
immediate capping. As an option, for filling lines of liquid and
This system represents a compact three-
times are halved compared with
way vial diverting system fully integrated into
conventional table-top machines.
the same isolator of the Capsy-LC machine.
Alu-capping machine
from sterile Beta-bags on the operator side.
The aseptic packaging solution is complete
In the capping phase, both the compression
with Capsy-LC, an alu-capping machine
force on the cap and its spinning speed
for small volume parenteral solutions
against the blade are controlled, so the
processed in a sterile environment. All the
process is perfectly repeatable.
The cap pre-feeder fills the hopper directly
operational zones are easily accessed
The result is a compact and efficient
the machine, Stery-La guarantees
using special gloves; maintenance
machine designed to be easily installed
impeccable batching precision,
is straightforward from the back of
against a wall, to guarantee safe use for
minimises dead product volumes and is
the machine. It is designed so that
operators and to be integrated in line with
manageable in every configuration. By
containment systems such as cRABS or
the filler, loaders, buffers and loading and
exploiting this in-process control system
isolators can be installed easily.
unloading units for freeze-dried products.
throughout the production process, each
Its balcony design ensures excellent
Marchesini’s automated solutions for
vial is weighed before and after filling. Any
laminar air flow and perfect segregation
aseptic processing are available in South
out of target vials are individually rejected.
of the operational area theoretically
Africa from its local agent, MGSA Projects. •
If the target volume is systematically
contaminated by potent drugs. The zone
displaced, the filling volume dispensed
where mechanical components are
by each single dosing pump can be
installed is air-tight and separated from the
adjusted separately.
processing area.
1 & 2: The Stery-La (left) features an Isol-Air isolator (right), designed and manufactured entirely by Marchesini.
26
1
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Marchesini – www.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – myles@mgsaprojects.co.za
2
EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE TO BE CONSTANTLY AT THE FOREFRONT OF TECHNOLOGY EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE
• CONTINUOUS INVESTMENT IN R&D • 500 PATENTS GRANTED • CONTINUOUS INVESTMENT IN R&D • FAST PRODUCTION COMPLEX • 500 FORMAT PATENTS GRANTED • FAST FORMAT PRODUCTION COMPLEX
MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE. MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE.
Projects Pty Ltd
Myles Davis Myles Davis Myles Davis Myles Davis Mobile: +27 +27 (0) 82 460 2766 Mobile 82 460 Mobile: +27 (0) 82 Mobile +27 (0)(0) 82460 4602766 27662766 Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za
MARCHESINI.COM MARCHESINI.COM
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Natural cellulose: A promising alternative to microplastics The use of microplastics in cosmetics represents a small source of this primary pollutant in marine environments, compared to other sources. Yet it could easily be avoided by switching to natural or biodegradable alternatives. Alessa Huneke and Judith Ryll of CFF and Sandra Sarembe,Vanessa Sternitzke and Andreas Kiesow of IMWS investigate the benefits of cellulose as an alternative to microplastics.
O
ur oceans are littered with
In order to produce an optimal
effects. Identical formulations were
plastic waste, including
replacement for microplastics, this study
compared, each with three percent of either
microplastics. These microfine
conducted by the Fraunhofer Institute for
the cellulose particles, polyethylene, or silica,
particles find their way into
Microstructure of Materials and Systems
while two market references containing
(IMWS) and CFF set out to determine the
polyethylene and silica were used as
the sea via wastewater and end up in our food chain if they are consumed by marine life. The use of microplastic particles in personal
criteria for the desired material
DID YOU KNOW?
characteristics. The challenge was to find the ideal size,
shape, hardness and surface morphologies By 2050, there could be three prohibited in the US. that provide the times more plastic than fish in our oceans.7-9 It is also believed The British government right exfoliation that one container of followed suit, banning and cleansing microplastics could result in microplastics in benefits without 2.8 million pieces of tiny January 2018. There are causing skin irritation. plastics entering several countries in the Cellulose was our oceans. EU where similar bans are selected as the material. currently under discussion, It was specially modified and yet microplastics are still found in analysed down to its microstructure personal care products in other parts of before cellulose based exfoliating the world. particles were developed and their Their best known and most discussed biodegradability, and abrasion and application is exfoliation. As a ‘soft cleansing effects evaluated. abrasive’, microplastics help remove dead skin cells and boost blood flow to increase Material and methods circulation in the skin. They also continue Natural cellulose particles are generally to be used in some countries as cleansing made from organic and renewable raw particles in dental care products.1-5 materials. Varied in terms of their particle The hazardous potential of shape and size, they enable different microplastics is characterised by their functionalities in line with the specific harmful additives, environmental toxins targets of cosmetics applications. and morphological features.6 Cellulose from various natural In 2012, about 4 300t of microplastics sources was tested for this study. Based were used in personal care products in the on CFF’s Sensocel range of scrubs, EU alone. While the industry is researching biodegradability was tested with different and developing greener alternatives, sizes and shapes of cellulose particles significant scientific challenges exist in from different origins. The abrasion and finding a suitable replacement. Alternative cleansing performance were investigated particles need to satisfy the necessary only on the globular wood particles. Silica cleansing effects, they should be and polyethylene were incorporated as biodegradable and moderately priced. reference materials for comparison. Hydrogenated waxes, silica, sugar, salt For exfoliating formulations, in vitro and crushed plant stones or the shells measurements were performed on a and kernels of nuts have already been water based formula (see Table 1) to proposed as alternatives.10 determine the abrasion and cleansing care products is
28
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
benchmarks. The characterisation of the particles was performed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The cellulose particles were investigated with a Quanta 3D FEG from FEI. To avoid a charging effect, they were coated with an ultra-thin platinum film by magnetron sputtering. Biodegradability was verified according to DIN EN 14851 under fresh water conditions. The cellulose particles were tested in comparison to polyethylene beads and standard abrasive silica of similar particle shapes and sizes. Mechanical abrasion was evaluated on a 25 x 25mm² glass substrate, which was coated with a one micrometre layer of chrome. This coating was evaluated as the most reproducible variant in pre-tests. The substrates were fixed on a 75 x 25mm² sample holder using double-sided tape (Tesa). A brushing simulator ZM (SDMechatronic) was used to perform brushing tests at a pressure of 150g for 10 000 strokes with a one centimetre hub. A total of 96 hubs were performed per minute. The slurry was renewed after 30 minutes. The brushing unit was equipped with a silicone layer on which a 75 x 25mm TE610 Hornschuch synthetic leather surface was fixed to simulate skin. The abrasion was determined on the glass substrate by colorimetric measurements, using a spectrophotometer CM-3600A (Konica Minolta). A visual comparison was also done prior to and after brushing. The analysis of the cleansing effects of cellulose was also performed on a synthetic leather surface (using identical parameters to simulate skin in
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION the abrasion evaluation). A total of 0.1g
parameters for the brushing tests were
The results
of Astor’s Perfect Stay 24h Foundation
identical to the abrasion tests except
Depending on the choice of material as well
and Perfect Skin Primer were applied
the number of strokes was adapted
as the milling and sieving process during
and distributed homogenously with a
to 10. The evaluation of the cleansing
manufacturing, it is possible to generate
squeegee (15µm gap). Measurements
performance was determined according
cellulose particles of different sizes (from
were taken 24 hours after applying the
to the abrasion evaluation.
20 to 800µm) and shapes (globular and
makeup. The brushing unit was equipped
Colorimetric data for different treatments
fibrous). Figure 1 shows a selection of
with a makeup sponge (ebelin) fixed
were compared using a one-way analysis
SEM images of representative cellulose
on a silicone layer. Brushing tests were
of variance (Anova) and the Tukey
particles and reference particles (silica
again performed in the simulator. The
HSD-test.
and polyethylene).
Figure 1: SEM image of cellulose particles from beech wood, polyethylene and silica
Figure 2: Biodegradability according to DIN EN 14851 of cellulose particles with varying shape from different origin in comparison to silica and PE
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
29
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Figure 3: Abrasion of different cleansing bodies measured by change of colour ΔE
The polyethylene particles range in
Figure 4: Cleaning efficacy [%] of different cleansing bodies
The measurements also show cellulose
it has a mild and gentle cleansing
size from 50 to 100µm while silica varied
particles of varying particle sizes
effect. Cellulose also matches up
in particle size between 50 and 80µm.
offer different levels of exfoliation. The
the cleaning performance of low
Biodegradability results are depicted in
combination of two different sized particles,
abrasive polyethylene.
Figure 2, showing the distribution of the
notably globular beech cellulose particles,
non-degraded residue and degraded part
100 and 300µm in size, results in a higher
of the particles after 39 days. Depending
abrasion in comparison to the individual
on the origin and shape of the cellulose
abrasiveness of the different particle sizes.
particles, their biodegradability ranges
The cleansing efficacy is tabled in Figure
Biodegradable cellulose is an optimal ingredient for dermal cleansing
from 78 to 100 percent after one to two
4. A visual comparison was also done to
months. Polyethylene and silica are
confirm these results. The analysis shows
considered non-degradable.
cellulose particles have a cleansing
cleansing effects, its high abrasion must
Abrasion results are shown in Figure 3. All
While the results for silica show good
effect in cosmetics products that is
be considered. This effect is of particular
tested cellulose particles show significantly
comparable to that of polyethylene and
concern because skin can be damaged
lower abrasion properties in comparison
silica. Significantly lower cleaning efficacy
when cleansed with exfoliators that have
to silica (p<0.001). The abrasion behaviour
was found for the commercial benchmark
rough surfaces and harsh edges. This is
of cellulose particles is comparable
product one and water.
why crushed plant stones and nut shells
to polyethylene and to a commercial
have faced recent criticism. Such highly
benchmark (product one), which also
Discussion and summary
contains polyethylene (p>0.001). The
The results indicate that biodegradable
micro-cracks in the corneal layer of the
highest abrasion effect was established for
cellulose is an optimal ingredient for
skin, resulting in bacterial infections and
the commercial benchmark (product two),
dermal cleansing. Cellulose shows
a compromised barrier function.
containing silica.
a very low abrasion on the skin and
abrasive exfoliators generally lead to
The analysis indicates cellulose scrubs offer the optimal characteristics
Table 1: Composition of the peeling formulation used for the analysis of abrasion and cleaning efficacy
Phase
A
B
Ingredient
INCI
water, demineralised
Aqua
64.3
Keltrol CG-SFT
Xanthan Gum
1.10
Glycerine > 98%
Glycerine
Plantacare 2000 UP
Decyl Glucoside
13.00
Plantacare 818 UP
Coco Glucoside
3.00
Tego Betain F 50
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
7.00
Glucam E-10 Humectant
Methyl Gluceth-10
3.00
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Benzoate
1.50
Orchidee R07188
Parfum
Citric Acid 50 % Solution
Citric Acid
TOTAL
30
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
4.00
3.00
cleansing particle C
Quantity %
0.10 q.s. 100.00
to cleanse and exfoliate skin. CFF’s gentle, non-irritating scrubs have a high cleaning efficacy. They can be sourced in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. Using natural cellulose in the cosmetics industry could prevent microplastics from aggregating and consequently reduce environmental pollution. It also shows promise for use in other industry categories, such as colour cosmetics to enhance the mattifying effect or colour intensity of a product. •
CFF – www.cff.de/en IMWS – www.imws.fraunhofer.de/en.html Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
New nature-based ingredients At this year’s SEPAWA Congress from 10 to 12 October, Evonik presented nature-based products. The range is aimed at customers in the cosmetics and detergent industries.
N
aturalness and sustainability are major trends in the cosmetics industry. ‘Customers are demanding nature-based ingredients and products that contain fewer ingredients overall,
even in detergents and cleaning agents,’ says Dr Xiaolan Wang, who heads Evonik’s household care business line. For cosmetics raw materials, the global company continues to align its own R&D work with these trends. Hairflux and Tego enlight are among its latest naturebased innovations. Hairflux is an olive-based ceramide composition that improves the strength of damaged hair and soothes
Rheance One is based exclusively on sugar and produced by fermentation. The glycolipid is suitable for hair and skin cleansing products
fresh fragrance. An additional benefit is the microemulsion can be combined with all existing softener ingredients. ‘The formulation of detergents and cleaning agents offers many
an irritated scalp. The product is suitable for use in hair
possibilities to meet customers’ demands for more naturalness in
lotions, personal care products for the scalp, and rinses
household products,’ comments Dr Wang. ‘Rewo Scent G 100 is a good
and shampoos.
example of how the same, or even an improved performance can be
Tego enlight has been developed for natural skin brightening. It is based on phytic acid salt obtained from rice bran and an extract of the fruit of white mulberry. Both
achieved with fewer active ingredients.’ •
Evonik – www.evonik.com
these ingredients possess complementary antioxidant and whitening properties.
Certified natural For cosmetics formulations requiring Cosmos certification, Evonik offers two high performance emulsifiers: Isolan 17 and dermofeel NC. Isolan 17 is a plant-based emulsifier for natural W/O systems. It allows for the production of even the most demanding formulations such as quick-breaking emulsions, aerosols and sprays. This emulsifier imparts a pleasant, non-oily skin feel and is suitable for achieving a wide range of sensory benefits. ‘This technology opens up a new dimension to our customers in the area of natural cosmetics,’ comments Dr Tammo Boinowitz, head of Evonik’s personal care business line. Dermofeel NC, an emulsifier for O/W systems, is also based entirely on renewable raw materials. It functions over a wide pH range from 3.5 to 8.5 and eliminates the need to use polyacrylate-based thickeners. Evonik also presented Skinolance and Rheance One at the congress. Skinolance is the company’s first microbiotic product for skin care while Rheance One is a glycolipid for mild yet effective cleansing.
Less is more For customers in the detergent and cleaning agent industry, Evonik has launched a new silicone derivative product, Rewo Scent G 100. Using smaller amounts of the active ingredient, it helps fabric softeners achieve even greater softness and imparts a longer lasting
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
31
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Spheres – a safe, gentle and greener way to exfoliate
It’s a common beauty tip that glowing skin is achieved through exfoliation. Yet it is less understood that the type of exfoliant, especially in facial care products, plays a key role in maintaining optimal skin health. Liesl Keulder, technical manager at Cirebelle, weighs up the options.
C
irebelle is a globally recognised
microbeads in personal care formulations.
manufacturer of natural and
These vary from spherical particles to fruit
Fischer Tropsch (FT) wax based
kernels. Yet there are concerns linked to
products, utilised in a broad
using fruit kernels to exfoliate the face and
The shells with their jagged edges can agitate the skin
whether they can cause micro tears in the
spherical and smooth shape of the raw
skin. This is highlighted in an on-going law-
materials. All three samples also showed
are sustainably sourced, readily bio-
suit in the USA regarding the use of a scrub
an increase in the hydration of users’ skin
degradable and an effective yet gentle
formulated with crushed walnut shells. The
after exfoliation. It is interesting to note
exfoliant. Rice bran wax is used as the raw
plaintiffs are claiming the shells with their
users preferred the scrubs containing FT
range of personal care applications. Our CireNat Rice Bran Exfoliating Spheres
Wax or Mannan spheres, due to sensory experience and after-feel on their skin.³ This study and the opinions speak to the benefits of using spheres as exfoliants to maintain the overall health of skin, especially when used in facial products. Cirebelle’s commitment to quality and innovation has driven us to initiate our own skin study and clinical trials for publishing. This R&D project is aimed at providing peace of mind to our customers in the personal care industry and to consumers, in that our CireWax and CireNat spheres are a premium choice for gentle and optimal skin exfoliation. •
Cirebelle – www.cirebelle.com material for these spheres, underlining
jagged edges can agitate the skin and
our belief in industrial ecology to use
cause it to tear.¹
REFERENCES:
the by-products of other industries to
The international Dermal Institute
produce environmentally friendly and
has recommended consumers avoid
value-adding solutions for the personal
using fruit kernels, shells or any similar
2. Howard, Diana Methods of Exfoliation International
care industry. These and our perfectly
compounds.² This could be due to the
Dermal Institute. Web.
spherical wax spheres are available
concerns linked to increased erythema (or
3. Kitsongsermthon J, Kreepoke J, Duangweang
in various colours. They all offer an
a decrease in skin barrier function) when
environmentally friendly alternative to polyethylene (PE) microbeads, which have been banned in many countries. Cirebelle’s wax spheres are inherently biodegradable while our natural CireNat Spheres are readily biodegradable. Unfortunately, PE microbeads
using these jagged edged exfoliants.
DID YOU KNOW?
are not and take years before any break-down occurs. There are a few environmentally friendly options on the market to replace PE
32
Improved skin-feel
Through the In a study published recently application of African in the Skin Research and chemistry, Cirebelle produces a range of Technology Journal, personal care exfoliants, waxes and activePE microbeads, FT Wax encapsulating spheres and Mannan SoftSpheres used by many of the world’s spheres were assessed in leading personal care brands. terms of stratum corneum
turnover time (SCTT), skin hydration and user satisfaction. The study found all spheres showed minimal difference in the SCTT. This was attributed to the
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
1. www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/article/38521213/st-ivesscrub-is-being-sued-for-5m
K, Tansirikongkol A. In vivo exfoliating efficacy of biodegradable beads and the correlation with user’s satisfaction. Skin Res Technol. 2018;24:26–30.
ABOUT Liesl Keulder has a PhD in polymer chemistry from the University of Stellenbosch. She started her career in the industrial sector as an analytical chemist and moved on to new product development. In 2015, Keulder joined a multinational company in the beauty and personal care industry and made the move to Cirebelle in 2017, where she is now technical manager.
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Aloe vera
Jojoba seeds and oil
Nutrient-rich milks to quench and nourish hair and skin
Avocado and coconut are known for their hair conditioning benefits
Desert Milk is the latest addition to the growing platform of milks from Vantage. This stable, low viscosity, o/w emulsion is prepared using a unique ultrasonic cavitation process in combination with a plant-based, biomimetic phospholipid.
T
he name ‘Desert Milk’ is inspired by the carefully selected oils and extracts used to create the emulsion. Each component
was chosen specifically for its intense hydrating properties to condition, soften and smooth the skin. Baobab fruit is high in antioxidants and vitamin C, while the oil contains omega fatty acids 3, 6 and 9. Kalahari Melon seed oil is also packed with phytosterols, essential fatty acids (especially omegas 6 and 9) and is known to dissolve excess
Vantage’s Milks are versatile, making them suitable for a wide range of formulations, including cold process
sebum on the skin. Commonly used for its healing and
Functions and benefits of Desert Milk: • conditioning agent • emollient • gloss agent • hair softening • moisturiser • skin replenishing • soothing.
When used at 100 percent, it can be The special phospholipid used in
marketed as a milky face serum. For
cleansing benefits, aloe vera contains
Desert Milk has also been shown to
brands looking to offering personalised
a variety of vitamins, minerals and
regulate specific genes and pathways
skin care solutions, the milk gives
nutritional substances that work together
responsible for cell regeneration,
consumers access to a hydration
to provide a calming and soothing effect.
keratinocyte differentiation and
boosting ingredient to mix into their
Desert Whale Jojoba Oil is rich in
proliferation, skin tissue hydration and
existing beauty products.
omega 9 fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
inflammation – to help re-balance
vitamin E and phytosterols. It offers
the skin.
intense hydration, conditioning and emollient properties.
34
Desert Milk is suitable even for sprayable and cold process formulas.
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
While it’s highly moisturising, Desert Milk maintains a consumer-desirable lightweight, non-greasy feel often demanded from skin care products.
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Milks with beauty benefits
Desert Whale Jojoba Milk is an
development of local communities while
Vantage’s Milks are versatile, making
innovative white, low viscosity liquid
preserving the Argan forest. The oil is
them suitable for a wide range of
with a lightweight elegant feel. It
cold pressed to maintain its potency and
formulations, including cold process.
is also produced using ultrasonic
high quality. •
Desert Milk features a series of
cavitation – a technology that
carefully selected oils and extracts.
combines high shear with an
Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is made up
expertly selected plant-based
of a range of botanical ingredients, which provide proper oil and moisture balance proven to improve shine, control frizz and boost the overall appearance of hair. Gene expression studies conducted on the special phospholipid found in Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk
Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za
phospholipid and Desert Whale
DID YOU KNOW?
Jojoba Oil. It has a thin,
milky consistency and Desert Milk has a conditioning benefits for significantly smaller skin and hair. particle size than a standard emulsion. Because these Active Performance micro-droplets have more Argan Milk is made with surface area, they allow for increased interaction environmentally friendly with the skin and better Argan oil, sustainably penetration of ingredients. and responsibly
show its ability to regulate the genes and pathways responsible for bringing hair and skin into balance.
Baobab fruit
sourced in Morocco. Argan oil is rich in omega fatty acids
The inclusion of this phospholipid also
6 and 9. It also
aids in the structuring and stabilisation
naturally contains
of the emulsion. The combination
vitamin E and
of these ingredients in the Coconut-
phytosterols. Argan oil
Avocado Hair Milk helps fortify and
production is a major
condition hair, resulting in enhanced
contributor to the Moroccan
gloss and softness.
economy. It also supports the
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
35
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Good chi for sensitive skin
Looking to China’s cultural past, derma cosmetics brands are combining ancient remedies with modern technology to develop new solutions for flawless skin. Derma-Clera, an active ingredient from Radiant, is based on a perennial shrub hailed in Traditional Chinese medicine for its skin soothing benefits.
T
hese days, skin is more
assist with continuous inflammatory
Clera to a shampoo formulation can
susceptible to damage from
response and to strengthen the
reduce irritation by about 36.4 percent.
multiple factors, including
skin barrier. According to Dongui
stress, lack of sleep and
Bogam, the encyclopaedia of Korean
study to assess the benefits of Derma-
environmental aggressors like
clinical medicine that is included
Clera formulated in a hair mask at two
the sun and pollution. Prolonged
in UNESCO’s ‘Memory of the World’
percent. A group of 10 Korean women
exposure to these damaging factors
programme, Cynanchum atratum
and men with sensitive scalp concerns
can compromise the skin’s barrier,
was traditionally used to treat red,
and seborrheic dermatitis were given
causing an inflammatory response
itchy and inflamed wounds. This
the Derma-Clera hair mask to use every
such as redness or sensitivity.
is as a result of its high sinapic
A baby’s skin, which is 20
acid content, which has
than adults, can be damaged to an even greater degree as it’s not yet fully developed. The scalp, also part of the skin, can be damaged
DID YOU KNOW?
Source: Industrial Toxicology Research
exposure, chemical and
The volunteers were instructed to apply
anti-oxidative, anti-
A deeper understanding of hair health, which starts at the follicle and is heavily impacted by the condition of the scalp, has paved the way for new findings on hair loss. In Asia, researchers have pinpointed overexposure to pollution as a primary aggressor of this phenomenon, saying ‘hair loss due to pollution can coexist or mimic androgenic alopecia’.
by extended UV
second day for a period of two weeks.
inflammatory, anticancer and hair loss prevention benefits. Radiant, a Korean specialist producer of anti-oxidants, has studied the efficacy
Derma-Clera is designed to protect the skin and scalp from external aggressors
of sinapic acid and Cynanchum atratum 5HGQHVV
extract to produce a
mechanical hair treatments
patented active ingredient
and shampoo and colouring
active ingredients from Radiant can
burning or itching sensation, hair
be sourced in South Africa from Afrisil.
loss or an allergic reaction. If left
Derma-Clera is designed to protect
untreated, the scalp will become
the skin and scalp from external
sensitive, leading to infection and the
aggressors and it has excellent
need for medical treatment. Yet with
calming and soothing effects.
6FDOS .HUDWLQ RU 'DQGUXII
6FDOS FRQGLWLRQ
called Derma-Clera. This and other
products, resulting in redness, a
,PSURYHPHQW
,PSURYHPHQW
to 30 percent thinner
The company also ran a clinical
derma cosmetics, scalp sensitivity linked to seborrheic dermatitis or
Calm troubled skin
scalp psoriasis can be managed
Radiant’s R&D centre conducted an
at home.
experiment using Derma-Clera in a shampoo formulation to determine
Stronger and less sensitive
whether the active could help
There is renewed interest in
reduce the level of irritation caused
Cynanchum atratum extract in derma
by generic shampoos. The results
cosmetics for its proven ability to
showed adding two percent Derma-
36
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
'D\
'D\
'D\ 8VLQJ KDLU PDVN ZLWK '(50$ &/(5$ )LJXUH 6FDOS VRRWKLQJ HIIHFW E\ KDLU PDVN
7KLV JUDSH VKRZV VFDOS VRRWKLQJ HIIHFW RI KDLU PDVN ZLWK '(50$ &/(5$ 7KLV WHVW FRQ
Figure 1: The scalp soothing benefits of Derma-Clera are evidenced by a 46 percent improvement in various sensitive scalp conditions
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Figure 2: Before and after images show a visible difference in the condition of the scalp subsequent to using the DermaClera hair mask
the overall condition of the scalp. Other tests
OS FRQGLWLRQ
on the active ingredient provided conclusive results, substantiating its positive effect on skin barrier enhancement, in caring for sensitive skin and to address skin troubles including %HIRUH
atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, in both skin and
$IWHU
scalp care applications. •
V .RUHDQ :RPHQ !
Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com Radiant – www.en.eradiant.co.kr
%HIRUH
$IWHU V .RUHDQ 0HQ !
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the mask to the scalp area and to leave it on for five to 10 minutes.
Ref. RADIANT R&D Center
After the two weeks, various parameters were assessed, including redness, scalp keratin, dandruff and scalp condition – all showed an improvement of about 46 percent (see Figures 1 and 2). Based on these positive results, Derma-Clera is effective in relieving irritation and in improving
AFRISIL E-mail: godh@eradiant.net Tel: +82-33-244-1243 www.en.eradiant.co.kr
‘Based on our innovative technology & global network , we have developed functional ingredients for the Personal Care Industry. Radiant currently supplies innovative natural ingredients to the cosmetics industry and strives to offer the best technical support to our customers.’
Afrisil was established in 2008 as an independent supplier of silicone products in the African market. We have however evolved and now offer a range of speciality raw materials into a variety of industries with particular strong associations with the Personal Care Industry. With the support of our principles we strive to offer our customers an excellent service and sound technical support.
‘DERMA CLERA’ - an active which enhances the skin’s barrier and targets sensitive skin including skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis,psoriasis and scalp conditions.
Tel: 011 465 2892 Cell: 073 124 0935 Email: Karin@afrisil.com
WE’RE LIVE! Please visit our brand new website www.afrisil.com
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
37
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
New texturised agent promises ‘a good hair day’ Gattefossé has launched its first hair care ingredient, Definicire, in response to the demand for a natural solution that hydrates and protects hair. In 2021, the global hair care market is expected to reach US$89 billion, growing by close on 24 percent from its value in 2016.
T
he provider of specialty
with an ISIPCA apprentice on
the hair’s protective lipid layer. It
ingredients and formulation
the investigations, which found
is 100 percent natural, based on
solutions, represented in South
Gattefossé’s Emulium Mellifera
Africa by Carst & Walker, revealed
MB and Acticire MB
Definicire to the global industry on 19
formulations were being
September at in-cosmetics Latin America.
used to rehydrate hair
Definicire is the result of studies initiated
instead of in skin care
a few years ago to find ‘the perfect
applications, as
hair care ingredient’ for consumers in
originally intended.
the Brazilian, Middle Eastern and South African regions. Gattefossé worked
So Gattefossé’s researchers applied their knowledge
DEFINICIRE’S BENEFITS AND USES: • increases hair hydrophobicity
in lipochemistry to
functionalised jojoba and
develop an ingredient
Source: Industrial Toxicology Research
that naturally protects and rehydrates hair by mimicking
• pre-style treatments • anti-frizz day creams • protective hair sprays and lotions • beard lotions, styling gums and waxes.
38
and ensures disciplined hair in all climates, it controls static electricity and provides an
enhanced smooth feel. Its performance has been and confirmed by a hair dresser.
Definicire recreates hair’s natural protective layer and ensures disciplined hair in all climates
• rinse-off conditioners and masks
protective layer
without the greasiness. texturising agent that recreates
• protects from pollution
hair’s natural
protective properties of hair sebum
high humidity
• enhances hair’s smoothness
Definicire recreates
evaluated on different hair types
• curl definition even under
• facilitates ease of combing
and abundance.
the beneficial conditioning and
Enter Definicire – an active
static electricity
known for their stability
A deeper understanding of hair health, which starts at the follicle and is heavily impacted by the condition of the scalp, has paved the way for new findings on hair loss. In Asia, researchers have pinpointed overexposure to pollution as a primary aggressor of this phenomenon, saying ‘hair loss due to pollution can coexist or mimic androgenic alopecia’.
• frizz and volume control
• inhibits the effect of
sunflower seed waxes, both
DID YOU KNOW?
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Natural yet driven by science Frequent use of shampoo and mechanical, thermal and chemical stresses remove the protective lipid layer of the cuticle making hair difficult to comb, rough to touch, dull and prone to frizz and tangling. To condition hair, silicones and quaternary
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
compounds are the main ingredients used. They are both efficient in different ways, but have limitations regarding biodegradability, build-up effect and image. In addition, they are not natural and are unlike the complex hair lipid layer. To provide the industry with an effective alternative, Gattefossé used its expertise in lipid chemistry to recreate the performance of sebum and 18-MEA – which are known to naturally provide the best protection for hair. Tests demonstrate that hair regains hydrophobicity and is protected from humidity and frizz. The hair becomes easier to manage and is smooth to the touch
• a sophisticated routine, with hair care offerings shifting from a simple to extended regimen • similar claims such as anti-pollution, UV and visible light protection, deep moisturisation, multifunctionality, anti-ageing and scalp care • increased focus on fun and innovative textures and reinvented formats that target user experience • inclusive offerings providing all consumer groups with suitable solutions for their hair care needs • cutting-edge technologies where consumers will monitor their hair in real time, in the near future • natural products and ingredients in line with eco-friendly and sustainability awareness trends.
so style is maintained for longer.
Embracing the natural texture of their hair, consumers are relaxing
At in-cosmetics Latin America, Gattefossé demonstrated
and straightening their hair less. Consequently, the textured hair
the benefits of Definicire with its Untangled Hair Care kit. The
category has become the fastest growing and most dynamic one in
kit contains 10 formulations, mostly leave-on, to represent a
the beauty industry. For example, in the US an annual growth rate of
modern sophisticated hair care regimen. Product options
nine percent is evident in products for Ethnic hair care which amounts
include a day cream, night mask, an anti-frizz product, a
to US$31.6 million spent on products for textured hair. •
wax and even a beard lotion.
Hair is the new skin care According to Gattefossé, there are two trends shaping
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com
the global hair care market. The first is a strong parallel with skin care trends while the move to embracing hair’s natural texture is the second. Novelties in hair care are strongly linked with innovations in skin care. The routine, claims, textures and targets are evolving, making products such as day and night treatments, grey-enhancing hair dyes and sprays for temporary rainbow coloured hair very popular. The main parallels from skin care, inspiring developments in hair care, include:
Highly efficient and versatile rheology modifier for skin, sun Highly efficient and and color cosmetic oil versatile systems rheology modifiertextures for skin, sun with enchanting and color cosmetic oil systems with enchanting textures
Bring an aura of magic to your skin, sun and color cosmetics systems. Oilkemia™ 5S polymer is a multi-functional oil soluble rheology modifier that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components enabling an array of alluring textures. It provides excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension, and stability, together with a Bring an aura of magic to your skin, sun and color cosmetics systems. Oilkemia™ 5S polymer is a multi-functional oil pleasant non-tacky feel in a variety of anhydrous or emulsion systems. From clear oil gels to smooth pigmented sticks, soluble rheology modifier that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components enabling Oilkemia™ 5S polymer lets you create products that indulge the senses and the imagination. an array of alluring textures. It provides excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension, and stability, together with a pleasant non-tacky feel in a variety of anhydrous or emulsion systems. From clear oil gels to smooth pigmented sticks, Oilkemia™ 5S polymer lets you create products that indulge the senses and the imagination.
Carst & Walker is the proud supplier for Lubrizol in South Africa For more information contact Tiffany de Astui at Tiffany.deastui@carst.co.za 011-489-3639 or 082-892-9731
800.379.5389 | www.lubrizol.com/personal-care
800.379.5389 | www.lubrizol.com/personal-care
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
39
INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION
Skin care solutions inspired by the Mediterranean
The skin works hard to protect the body. In order to respond to its needs, we need to use products specially formulated with effective ingredients that rebuild and safeguard the skin. This will not only protect the epidermis but also maintain its protective barrier.
O
ur skin interfaces with the
Skin Save
such as sensitive skin care, baby care
environment and guards the
This active is a synergistic combination
products, after sun lotions, aftershave
body from environmental
of opuntia extract (Opuntia ficus-indica
balms and anti-inflammatory and
influences, pathogens and
stem extract), olive leaves (Olea europaea
cosmeceutical applications.
excessive water loss. Acting as an insulator, it
leaf extract) and caper buds (Capparis
regulates our temperature and is responsible
spinosa fruit extract). The fusion of opuntia
Opuntia Biocomplex SH
for the sensations we feel.
extract in Skin Save moisturises and repairs
Obtained from the juice of the leaves or
the skin while the olive leaves provide
cladodes of Opuntus ficus, this powdered
External forces can impact on skin’s condition and weaken its natural defense mechanisms. UV radiation penetrates and damages the skin. Harsh cleaning products, exposure to fluorescent light and pollution can also be harmful, disrupting skin’s functional benefits. If not properly protected, the skin’s barrier function can become compromised, which leads to dryness and increased sensitivity.
Synergistic blends and active substances
Exposure to fluorescent light and pollution can be harmful, disrupting skin’s functional benefits
extract contains a natural blend of mucilages and other polysaccharides. The valuable nutrient profile of Opuntia Biocomplex SH is as a direct result of the water which is stored in the cladodes, beneath their prickly surface. This natural gel has a long history of traditional use among farmers in southern Italy. They would apply the cladodes onto their skin to moisturise it and protect skin wounds. Opuntia Biocomplex SH produces a physical barrier on the skin, protects
Bionap harnesses the nutrients found in
soothing benefits and the caper buds
it, deeply moisturises it and promotes
Mediterranean foods and plants to create
desensitise the skin, working together to
cutaneous reparative processes. It can
ingredients for personal care and wellness
reduce inflammation and counteract
be used to formulate moisturising and
products. This Italian company is a world
redness and itching as a result of damage
skin repair products, especially for babies’
leader in the extraction and processing
to the skin. This unique blend of active
sensitive skin (see Table 1) and is ideal for
of active substances. Protea Chemicals is
ingredients creates a protective barrier,
anti-ageing serums. •
proud to represent Bionap in South Africa,
making Skin Save ideal for products
bringing its unique portfolio of active
formulated specifically for sensitive skins.
ingredients to the local market.
It can be used in various applications,
Bionap – www.bionap.com Protea Chemicals – www.proteachemicals.co.za
Table 1: Baby Cream
Phase
INCI Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter Hydrogenated Castor Oil Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Decyl Cocoate
A
Pistachio Oil
Isohexadecane
Dermoil HDE
Stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Aqua/Water Glycerin Magnesium sulphate eptahydrate C D
40
-
Pistacia vera (pistachio) seed oil
Beeswax
B
Trade name
-
Opuntia ficus indica stem extract, Maltodextrin
Opuntia Biocomplex SH
Aqua
Water
Parfum & preservatives
Fragrance and preservatives
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
% 1 0.5 3 3 2 8 0.2 3 0.1 62.7 4 1 3 7 1.5
The leaves (cladodes) of Opuntus ficus house a nutrient-rich gel, synthesised by Bionap to produce Opuntia Biocomplex SH
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
November/December 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 11
www.pharmacos.co.za
Get your brand in more hands with
product-enhancing vacuum formed or custom thermoformed blister packaging
Printology 2018 whistle stop tour highlights
Dow appoints duo to turn trash into treasure
NEWS
Pre-formed for better protection THERE HAVE BEEN a number of improvements in cold forming for blister packaging. Machinery innovations allow steeper depth and angles during forming, minimising the amount of material used for each cavity. The results are eco-friendlier, cost-effective production methods and packaging. Strip packs are also pushing boundaries in terms of providing excellent barrier properties while using less packaging material in production. You can read about these and other blister packaging developments on page 46. I recently attended the Printology Roadshow, hosted by Kemtek in partnership with Komori, Fujifilm, Baldwin and Siegwerk. Rounding up the highlights, on page 44 I’ve shared expert information on efficient prepress and quick ink drying technologies presented at the event. For more packaging updates like our Facebook page.
ON THE GO RESPIRATORY DEVICE WITH THE RELEASE of PureHale, Aptar Pharma continues its commitment to meeting new market trends. The new portable, ready to use drug delivery system is designed for upper respiratory care. When used in combination with saline
@packagingreview
or other natural ingredient formulations, the device helps relieve the symptoms
Until next month!
of upper respiratory system conditions. PureHale was officially launched at CPhI
Assistant Editor
Worldwide, which took place in Madrid,
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
Spain, from 9 to 11 October. The product was also a finalist in the CPhI Pharma
STERIDROP TUBE FOR PRESERVATIVE FREE EYE DROPS
Awards in the category Excellence in
NEOPAC HAS INTRODUCED a new
innovative technology distributes a
With chronic use, preservatives
Pharma: Drug Delivery Devices. The need for upper respiratory relief is more prominent than ever owing to the rise in pollution levels. PureHale’s
packaging solution for the eye
in eye care formulations, such
continuous fine mist that gently cleanses,
care category. The SteriDrop tube
as benzalkonium chloride, are
moisturises and soothes the upper
provides exemplary protection
believed to lead to side effects,
respiratory tract. This assists in reducing
and delivery of preservative-free
prompting a push for ‘preservative-
irritations caused by coughs, colds,
eye drops. Filled and sealed on
free’ in the eye care category.
allergies, respiratory problems and dry
sterile tube filling lines, it uses
Microbiologically tested and
nose and throat issues.
patented Polyfoil technology, which
FDA approved, the SteriDrop tube
the company previously used for
amounts to a pharma grade
consumers to relieve their symptoms
packaging eye creams and gels.
solution, which addresses the
where and whenever needed. Unlike
resulting challenge of eye care
traditional nebulisers, PureHale does
squeeze dispenser, the concept
product protection and durability.
not require batteries or the need to
proves highly conducive to protecting
The system comes with a selection
prefill a reservoir. Developed after
preservative-free eye drops from
of caps and flow rates that can
researching and analysing the benefits
microbiological contamination.
be customised according to drop
and challenges of traditional nebuliser
formulations. It also eliminates the
technology, this user friendly system
up to 30mℓ. This easily covers three
need for silver ions, surface coatings
has been engineered for on the
months’ supply of daily eye treatment.
and secures a metal free product
go consumers.
Combined with an ophthalmic
SteriDrop can contain volumes
When squeezed, the tube’s mechanical system releases a
pathway for dispensing. The slim, user friendly
precisely measured drop. It also
tube fits comfortably
prevents the liquid from flowing
in a user’s hand. This
back into the tube. This guarantees
multi-dose system also
a level of microbiological safety
saves on packaging
previously unattainable. As a result,
and resources when
the product remains sterile over the
compared to single
entire period of application without
dose packs.
the use of preservatives.
Neopac has
The tube’s exemplary barrier
a team of
properties protect the product from
international
light, air, water vapour diffusion
agents that supply
and migration. This lends to critical
tubes directly to
content efficacy and overall
manufacturers in
product durability.
South Africa.
42
The device’s portability allows
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
Aptar Pharma’s PureHale device
NEWS
TECHNOLOGY THAT PROMISES STRONGER PLASTICS MILLIKEN HAS EXTENDED its portfolio of
post consumer recycled resins. The new
Africa, to help solve the
additive technologies to improve the
performance modifier allows converters
challenges facing
clarity, performance and processing
to take greater advantage of cost and
polymer producers,
of polyolefins. The company launched
sustainability benefits.
converters, designers and
two new products this year. The first
The Hyperform HPN was specifically
is a unique performance modifier for
designed to maximise stiffness in PP
injection moulded polypropylene (PP)
and ICPs.
and impact copolymers (ICPs) while
brand owners. ‘Both innovations deliver breakthrough aesthetics,
‘This technology enables recycled
exceptional material
the second is a newer technology
resin to deliver performance
properties, improved
within its Hyperform HPN family of
comparable to that of virgin materials,’
efficiency and enhanced
nucleating agents.
says Prem Patel, strategy and business
sustainability. Milliken will
development manager for plastics
continue to apply market
additives at Milliken.
insights and technological
These technologies are believed to considerably change the way PP and ICPs perform with regard to impact
Allen Jacoby, the company’s VP
expertise to customers’
strength, stiffness and melt flow. They
for plastics additives says Milliken’s
evolving requirements,’
also improve the physical properties of
innovations are available in South
Jacoby adds.
CONGRATULATIONS REITECH, ON YOUR MILESTONE! THE CUSTOMER FOCUSED supplier of
Reiss took ownership of the company in
meets customers’
machines primarily for the FMCG and
1995 and renamed it Reiss Technology,
expectations.
pharmaceutical markets, celebrates its
commonly known as Reitech SA. A year
55th anniversary this year.
later the company integrated into the
age symbolises
South African Picardi Group.
consistency
The company has evolved as a strong market competitor. In 1963, Hauni South
Today, this exclusive agency business
‘We believe
and longevity.
Manufacturing was established by Dr Kurt
represents European engineering
With all this
Koerber as the second overseas subsidiary
companies and their manufacturing
experience in
of Hauni Werke, a German equipment
equipment for the cosmetics, healthcare
supplying and
manufacturer. He appointed an engineer,
and pharmaceutical industries, to name
servicing world class
Franz Reiss, to oversee the company.
a few.
packaging machines,
Over the next 32 years, Hauni South
‘The technical services we offer
we’re able to increase overall equipment
Manufacturing expanded its facilities while
are equally as important as selling
effectiveness, higher output rates and
undertaking major developments and
machinery,’ explains Olaf Socher,
better product quality. This results in
production modifications for customers in
Reitech SA’s sales manager. This ensures
a faster return on investment for our
the tobacco industry.
the performance of the equipment sold
customers,’ he concludes.
11900 - PROPAK AFRICA 2019 VISPROM ADVERT NEW MEDIA 177X65_V2.indd 1
2018/08/22 09:22
Packaging Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
43
EVENTS
The power of the lamp light revealed The Printology South Africa Roadshow 2018, hosted by Kemtek, in partnership with Komori, Fujifilm, Baldwin and Siegwerk, kicked off on 23 October at the Johannesburg Country Club. Dubbed ‘a whistle-stop tour of SA’s major print centres’, regional Printology events took place on 24 and 25 October, in Durban and Cape Town respectively.
T
he aim of the tour was to equip
The result is a number of valuable
H-UV inks provide dramatic colour on
the printing and packaging
benefits. It allows printed sheets to
uncoated or matte stocks. With this new
industry with information
dry immediately with an unrivalled
technology, jobs are completed in shorter
premium inline gloss finish.
time frames compared to conventional
on some of the latest and most innovative print tools. Based on
The system’s UV lamp has been
the theme, ‘Innovate to Create’,
developed specifically for high-
each afternoon seminar during the
sensitivity UV ink. There is one lamp
roadshow included several short but
mounted inside the printer that
punchy presentations centred on
enables high print quality, reliability
how to boost productivity and
and excellent economic and
profitability. Led by industry experts, the presentations underlined the power of efficient prepress and quick drying technologies. These are intended to make print
DID YOU KNOW?
eco-friendly performance.
COMPARATIVE OUTCOMES
A single H-UV lamp with one bulb can cure up to 400 percent ink coverage.
Johnstone discussed the benefits of H-UV versus
production efficient, seamless
conventional technology.
and environmentally friendly.
‘There is a higher image
Q&A sessions followed the
contrast, no set-off, brighter colours
presentations, thereafter guests
are produced, mechanical resistance
could spend time networking with
is higher, ink coverage of up to 350
experts and peers from the printing
percent and printing speeds are faster
and packaging industry.
while turnaround times are shorter.’ H-UV also offers an environmentally
INK AND ENERGY ALIGNED
friendly benefit because less energy
The presenters included Tony Carter,
is consumed. The process is powder-
director of distributor sales for Komori
free, supporting an industry need for
International Netherlands; Ulrich Sause
cleaner production. In addition, the
from AMS Spectral UV – a Baldwin
substrate’s surface is smoother while
Technology Company – Jonathan
pollution of the blankets on the press
Johnstone, MD of Siegwerk SA and
is prevented.
Takeo Hata, MD general manager of Graphic Systems’ Division for Fujifilm SA.
With H-UV LED there is no need for the extraction of ozone using the ink,
A common theme in all their
because, as Johnstone explained, the
discussions was H-UV technology.
application is free of mercury. The result
Deemed innovative, the technology
is LED lamps with a higher lifespan.
is specified for drying or curing
Siegwerk has developed a range
inks and coatings on sheetfed
of inks specifically to meet Komori’s
presses. It is described as a unique
requirements. H-UV ink performs
alignment between ink and energy
similarly to conventional UV ink with
to optimise performance. In other
minimal dot gains, similar gloss and
words, the energy output of a H-UV
true dot shapes. There is no ‘dry-back’
lamp is precisely aligned with the
like with oil based inks. This means the
required curing range for H-UV ink.
colour does not fade over time.
44
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
inks, which require more time. •
INK DRYING METHODS TO CURE INKS, printing presses are equipped with IR or UV dryers. H-UV technology is another method , which cures a substantial percentage of ink coverage using a H-UV lamp. The result is a dramatic reduction in the amount of energy required for curing compared to either IR or UV. The benefit of the single lamp is a low heat output. As an example, a printed sheet immediately off the press is about 10 degrees warmer than ambient air temperatures. Because less heat is given off by the press, electrical and energy costs are lowered giving the printer substantial savings. H-UV also eliminates stock deformation from excessive heat, which results in better colour fits and easier second passes through the press. The lamp is usually located at the end of press or, when a dry trap application is required, in the inter-deck. It doesn’t emit ozone, which usually occurs with UV lamps, extending the life of the equipment without the need for roof venting.
AMS Spectral UV – www.airmotionsystems.com Fujifilm SA – www.fujifilm.eu Kemtek – www.kemtek.co.za Komori International Netherlands – www.komori.eu Siegwerk – www.siegwerk.com
The ideal cosmetic packaging solution Sappiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paperboard is your complete solution for premium packaging and graphic applications in the cosmetic industry. Recognised for superior whiteness and a remarkable silky touch, Algro Design offers brand owners brilliant colour reproduction, increased shelf impact and unique brand differentiation. Manufactured from a renewable resource, our packaging papers are recyclable and certified with international environmental certification bodies. For more information on our market-leading packaging papers, please visit www.sappi.com
BLISTER PACKAGING & ENCAPSULATION
Better protection for oral solid dosage meds In many parts of the world, blisters are the main type of pharma packaging. In certain countries they are referred to as push through packs. They provide tamper resistance and barrier protection for products with shelf life requirements.
occurs when cards are placed and blister packs sealed. A laser printer is used to print information on the reverse sides of the cards. These include QR and barcodes or best before dates. Packs housing different contents
DID YOU KNOW?
Romaco’s push through strips that use thinner foil
C
reated by means of a form, fill and
The company, headquartered
seal process, blister pack cavities
in Germany, offers automatic
are referred to as blister cards,
blister packaging lines. The
The main aspect of blister packaging is the cavity. Made by formidable webs, it prevents pills and tablets from any damage.
are individually marked and traced. Exclusively developed for the production of nonfood packaging, Illig’s BSA 37 blister machine features conventional production reliability. This system is also flexible owing to its ability to construct
packs or strips. There are slight differences
machine’s components include
different premium packaging
between strips and packs. The difference
a heat sealing mechanism,
solutions with the shortest
is strip packs do not have thermo or cold
thermoforming and sealing units.
conversion times.
formed cavities. Strip packs are formed
Card loaders and feeding devices
The quick change devices on
around one tablet at a time when dropped
can be relocated or retrofitted on
both these systems support short
to the sealing area between moulds.
each part of the system. Attaching
changeovers for moulds and format
Global supplier of high performance
labelling devices or coding units
parts. They also meet modern
thermoforming and packaging machines,
at the back of the sealing station
demands for blister packaging and
Illig Maschinenbau’s marketing
can be done easily. The complete
protect products whilst maintaining a
representative, George Sposny says the
production sequence of these packs
high recognition value. Hestico is
company’s blister packaging machine, the
can be traced, from material feeding
the South African supplier of
HSA 50d system accommodates flexible
to thermoforming and the cutting
machinery and equipment from
production needs.
and filling of blister caps. Tracing also
Illig Maschinenbau.
The HSA 50d system from Illig Maschinenbau
46
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
BLISTER PACKAGING & ENCAPSULATION
A blister pack for razors
A portable machine
industry expo took place from 9 to 11
offer a good alternative for medicines
If you’re looking for locally developed
October in Madrid.
that require geriatric patients to tear
solutions, Rhino Pak, based in
Romaco and Huhtamaki premiered
open strip packaging or aluminium-
Johannesburg, manufactures packaging
their push through strip packaging
aluminium blisters. Huhtamaki has a
and filling equipment. Its automatic blister
for pharmaceuticals. Tablets packed
patent pending for the manufacturing
packaging machine for tablets and
inside the strip are easily removed by
process used for this special foil. These
capsules comprises a flat structure and
pressing them out of the pockets in the
strips can be supplied in a standard
positive pressure moulding and textured
four sided sealed foil pack. The pack
rectangular format or design strips.
sealing components. The technology can
combines the excellent barrier properties
be tailored to customers’ requirements.
of strip packaging with the blister
machine equipped with a special die
Keaghan Szeles, owner of Rhino Pak,
A Siebler HM 1-350 heat sealing
format opening mechanism. In direct
cutter is used to manufacture special
says the machine is compact, has an
comparison to cold formed aluminium
formats. The continuous cutting station
adjustable drive version and is easy to
blisters, the push through strip uses less
supports round strip formats and heart,
operate. Capsules and tablets are packed
packaging material while the thinner foil
petal or even star shaped ones.
The push through strip uses less packaging material while the thinner foil enables cost savings
output of 800 design strips per minute.
in aluminium foil into blister packs. The blister formed is heat sealed and printed on it is a lot number. The system’s positive pressure former, matched with its mechanical punch, ensures a suitable blister is formed. The machine has a collate and special automatic feeder to pack different formats such as ampoules, vials and syringes. Its forming, heat sealing and
The system achieves a maximum
impressing moulds support precise product
According to Romaco, the production of push through strips in a heat sealing process expands its portfolio in the area of air, light and moisture tight unit dose packaging. More than 12 000 installations delivered by Romaco are currently in use in more than 180 countries.
orientation and easy changeovers with the
enables cost savings. These strips are
added benfit of saving on materials. This
manufactured either from a multilayer
headquarters in Karlsruhe, Germany
detachable design allows the machine to
laminated PET, PE, Al, Surlyn foil, or a
and is part of the Truking Group, a
be mobile and can be installed according
transparent barrier foil. The material does
globally operating high tech enterprise
to a user’s requirements.
not tear and is therefore regarded as
based in Changsha,China.•
The Romaco Group has
child-proof.
Less is more
Owing to the targeted perforation of
Romaco Siebler (Romaco) took part in
the upper polyester layer, simply pressing
CPhI Worldwide in collaboration with
the tablet out of the laminated foil with
industry partners Huhtamaki, Biogrund,
one’s thumb can open the pack.
Hennig and Skyepharma. The pharma
The strips are senior friendly and, as such,
Hestico – www.hestico.co.za Huhtamaki – www.huhtamaki.com Rhino Pak – www.designtek.co.za Romaco Siebler – www.romaco.com
Packaging Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
47
INDUSTRY TALK
Plastic waste is definitely not fantastic!
To address the global challenge of packaging waste, Dow has appointed two new commercial directors. Tim Boven and Carsten Larsen will also be tasked with building on the company’s existing collaborations and developing new business models.
D
ow Packaging Specialty
The company has committed to
‘Creating these
Plastics (Dow) created these
investing in the ‘right leaders
new roles within the
senior leadership roles to
and recycling innovations’ to help
company is
address growth strategies to monetise
advance end of life solutions
just one step
plastics waste recycling streams
for plastics.
of many in our
around the world.
‘Having Boven and Larsen drive the
Boven and Larsen will work with
commitment to
company’s recycling strategies, it will
advance the
the company’s value chain partners
be able to help customers around
sustainability
and tackle relevant technologies
the world achieve their sustainability
value of plastics,’
and initiatives to increase the
objectives. It will also enable the
recyclability of plastics for the company. Boven was previously Dow’s global integrated supply chain director for hydrocarbons. He will focus on Latin and North America.
DID YOU KNOW?
He says one
value chain for plastics,’
company cannot
Donoso explains. The duo is in the
Every year, about 8 million metric tonnes of plastic end up in our oceans.
Larsen formerly worked at Dow Industrial Solutions’ as
current plastic waste
create and deliver solutions to stop
world. They are working recycling technology to contribute to the end goal.
and India. He will
Ca rsten La rsen
waste leakage and maintain the value of plastics throughout its life span.’ •
to identify innovations in
director for EMEA overlook the same
KEY SOLUTIONS
regions with the
Boven and Larsen’s focus in North
exclusion of India
America and EMEA will primarily
and inclusion of
be on advancing the circular
Asia Pacific (APAC).
economy of plastic through new
The duo’s duties
‘We encourage our industry peers, partners and customers to help us
streams around the
Tim Boven
solve this issue.
process of evaluating
a commercial
involve working with
Donoso highlights.
shift toward a more circular
Dow Packaging Specialty Plastics – www.dow.com
WASTE DILEMMA
product offerings. This will be done via technologies
EXPERTS HAVE WARNED plastic is one of the
their respective
used to transform plastic waste
biggest threats facing our oceans. In 2015, a study
commercial
into valuable resources. In Latin
conducted by a scientific working group at UC Santa
leadership teams
America and APAC, the recycling
Barbara’s National Center for Ecological Analysis
to help design appropriate resource
infrastructure is less advanced and
and Synthesis (NCEAS), quantified the influx of
structures based in the regions they
plastic waste continues to increase.
plastic waste that migrates from land into marine
represent, to advance efforts.
These areas will require focussing
environments. The amounts were equivalent to
on new recycling, collection and
five grocery bags filled with plastic for every foot
A SHIFT IN FOCUS
infrastructure platforms for Dow and
of coastline worldwide and they are expected to
Diego Donoso, business president for
its local value chain partners that
increase with each passing year. By 2025, the
Dow, says mass amounts of plastic
keep plastics out of the environment.
annual cumulative input of plastics that end up
waste enter the natural environment.
Their work is expected to assist
in oceans is anticipated to reach about 20 times
the company in reaching its 2025
more than the 8 million tonne estimate. This is
the availability of sufficient waste
sustainability goal. This includes
the equivalent of 100 bags of plastic per foot of
infrastructure, low rates of recycling
advancing the circular economy
coastline worldwide.
and plastics carelessly discarded
by delivering solutions to close the
Source: www.nceas.ucsb.edu
after use.’
resource loops in key markets.
‘This is due to global variations in
48
| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
CONGRESS SUPPORT REMAINS A PRIORITY FOR COSCHEM In 2017, Coschem generated surplus funds. As a result, the society has been in the position to offer sponsorships to members who are interested in presenting papers at IFSCC Congresses. By Abby Vorster
R
oy Gardiner, treasurer of the
Since childhood, it’s been Sowman’s
It was a truly enlightening experience
Society of Cosmetic Chemists
dream to explore the field of cosmetic
for Sowman to present her poster and
(Coschem), explains:
science.
attend a few congress sessions. ‘I am
‘For South Africa this has many benefits.
‘Being given the opportunity to travel to
thankful for Coschem’s generosity
The most important and defined in our
Munich to attend the 30th IFSCC Congress
and for being given this valuable
constitution is to provide members
has greatly enhanced my knowledge and
opportunity,’ she comments. ‘I am
with an opportunity to learn on an
defined my ability to achieve my goals in
now much more aware of all the costs
international platform.’
cosmetic chemistry.’
involved and how to be more prepared
This not only expands members’
She believes cosmetic chemistry has
horizons but also contributes to improving
a positive impact on people’s lives. ‘It
Coschem’s ranking, which is crucial in the
provides me with an opportunity to
bidding process to host an IFSCC Congress.
express my creativity through science,
The society is bidding to host the 2025
which is made even more attractive by
congress in South Africa. Only societies
the prospect of becoming an inventor
ranked in the federation’s top 15 are
and entrepreneur.’
for the next venture.’ •
DON’T MISS OUT, ATTEND THE AGM!
permitted to host these congresses.
CLOSING GAPS IN SOUTH AFRICA
COSCHEM will hold its annual general meeting at
Coschem must meet certain criteria. Most
After attending the IFSCC congress,
17h00 on 7 February 2019 at the society’s premises
critical is our membership, because the
which took place from 18 to 21
in Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg. All members
society is ranked according to its total
September, Sowman realised just how
are encouraged to attend to find out more about
number of members. Second are our
far global developments in sunscreens
the financial status of the society, its various
scientific points. These are awarded to
have advanced.
committees, their contributions to Coschem’s
‘For South Africa to be eligible,
Coschem for papers presented by our
continued success and how you can also get
‘Japan already has products that
members at IFSCC Congresses, either as
work to tackle the entire broad-
involved. There are a few seats available for new
podium or poster presentations,’ he adds.
spectrum,’ she explains, saying she
council members to join the Coschem Council
plans to build on her master’s research
in 2019. If you are a voting member (i.e. a full
using the knowledge gained in Munich.
member), you can nominate yourself to be elected
A CHARMING SCIENCE When the call for papers was issued
onto the council. Nomination forms are available
‘By attending some of the
for the 30 IFSCC Congress in Munich,
presentations, I realised how many gaps
from Coschem, simply send an e-mail to bridget@
Serina Sowman submitted a paper on The
there are in South Africa. I’ve come up
coschem.co.za if you’re interested.
Potential of Plant Polyphenols as Notable
with lots of ideas which I hope to put
Photostable Sunscreen Actives.
to good use when I start working in the
th
Sowman is a second year student in
industry. Of particular interest, L’Oréal
the Coschem Diploma correspondence
Paris presented the results of a study
course and a masters student at the
on South African Ethic hair, the ways
University of KwaZulu-Natal. Her paper
it differs to American Ethic hair and
was accepted by the IFSCC as a poster
how the company plans to tackle the
presentation, but the university wasn’t able
market and release new products.’
2
to provide funding, which would prevent her from attending. When Coschem learned Sowman was considering withdrawing her paper, the executive committee agreed to sponsor her. Gardiner explains: ‘We are passionate about improving the standard of education within the
1
cosmetic field. The interest South African universities show in various topics related to our industry is also very rewarding for Coschem.’
1: Sowman’s poster presentation focused on the photostability of sunscreens with natural polyphenols 2: An IFSCC Congress delegate talks to Sowman about her research
P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |
49
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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Quick Crossword Clues Down 1. Pungent nitrogen and hydrogen compound 2. Egyptian tomb 3. Tooth 4. Perfidy Across 1. Assign a duty 5. Amazing or wonderful occurrence 6. Bane 7. Firedog
Radiant....................................................37.........www.en.eradiant.co.kr Remancos............................................... 18.........www.remancos.co.za Sappi.......................................................45.........www.sappi.com Savannah Fine Chemicals........................29.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek..................................................22.........www.sensetek.co.za Specialised Exhibitions............................43.........www.propakafrica.co.za Symrise SA............................................ OFC.........www.symrise.com Symscent ................................................ 17.........sales@symscent.co.za Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..................35.........kim@lipo.co.za Zinplex Cosmeceutical............................20.........cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za Zippy Labels............................................ 16.........www.zippylabels.co.za
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Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,
Chemists’ website will find information
Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam
on membership, educational
Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,
programmes (specific details
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives
pertaining to the Cosmetic Science
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical & cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging
The largest independent producer in the world of core and
and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.
www.brb-international.com
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme offers support
Your No. 1 industry leader for the
to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social needs and well being.
most comprehensive ranges of both
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across SA, cosmetics
synthetic and natural colours – used
are used as tools to address visible side effects of treatment to assist patients
in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to restore self-esteem and face the world
industrial applications.
with confidence.
www.lgfb.co.za
Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.co.za
New solutions for
TODAY‘S PRESERVATION CHALLENGES THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALITY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE
Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.
> We prefer to reduce preservatives. Not their effect. <
CLARIANT.COM/PERSONALCARE