Science is a journey. A journey to continuously grow, nurture and evolve. We are passionate about working side by side with our customers to understand challenges and make a difference.
In providing the tools, we hope to collectively work towards better health, well-being, and a cleaner environment.
Volume 51 | Number 11
www.pharmacos.co.za
6 News
analytica Lab Africa returns in 2025
Next-gen air compressors drive innovation in manufacturing
Syntegon and Telstar officially join forces
10 Industry Talk
SHA Risk Specialists’ perspective on the future of clinical trials
12 Perfumery & Fragrance Ingredients
What’s redefining fragrance trends in 2025
Regulatory scents –an evolving landscape
18 Ingredient & Formulation Innovation
New quinoa-based, skinfriendly emulsifier
Brenntag SA’s value-adding solutions for local brands
BASF launches a synthetic peptide for skincare
2025 beauty trends from Mintel
Improve skin’s resilience with CefiraProtect CLR
28 Quality Assurance & Quality Control
SGS discusses testing for eco-conscious beauty brands
PIF compliance – essential tests for cosmetics
32 Association News
Plastics SA releases 2023 polymer consumption and recycling figures
SAAFFI takes sensory storytelling to the Mother City
2024 – the year of well-being & self-care
This year has brought a unique blend of challenges and opportunities. South Africa faced significant economic fluctuations, driven by ongoing global conflicts, supply chain disruptions, and shifts in consumer behaviour. The impact of inflation on business costs and pricing strategies pushed companies to innovate and adopt more efficient costmanagement practices.
If I had to pinpoint three defining trends of 2024, they would be AI integration, automation, and enhanced digital marketing. These advancements have become integral to the daily operations of cosmetic and pharmaceutical manufacturers, as well as their industry suppliers.
From the consumer's viewpoint, the focus on mental well-being has only intensified. Heightened stress from economic uncertainties and work pressures has made mental health discussions mainstream. This trend has also found great significance in the fragrance industry, which is increasingly aligning with the values of well-being and self-care.
In this final edition of P&C Review for 2024, we look ahead at fragrance trends for 2025, exploring how sustainability, well-being, and
niche innovations will shape the future of the industry. Turn to page 12 for more.
In our feature on ingredient and formulation innovation, we bring you Mintel’s beauty trends forecast for the year ahead and Brenntag South Africa’s value-adding solutions for the local market. We also introduce you to Pepsensyal –BASF Personal Care’s new cost-effective slow ageing peptide. Find out more on page 18
Plastics SA has released its latest survey results on polymer consumption and recycling figures for the year ending 2023. You can read more about these figures on page 32, in our section on association news.
As we close out the year, the P&C Review team is grateful for the engagement and continued support from readers and advertisers. Your trust and collaboration drive us to provide valuable insights and relevant content throughout the year. We wish you all a joyful and restful festive season, filled with peace, happiness, and new inspiration for 2025.
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To view the latest plastics recycling and polymer production figures (for the year ending December 2023) please turn to pages 32 & 33.
analytica Lab Africa returns in 2025
The only trade show in South Africa for the laboratory technology, analysis, biotechnology and diagnostics sectors, analytica Lab Africa will be back in South Africa next year, from 8 to 10 July. Organised by Messe Muenchen India and Messe München, analytica Lab Africa is a part of the worldwide analytica network.
Bhupinder Singh, CEO of Messe Muenchen India, says: “analytica is a recognised international brand, with our 2024 events including analytica Anacon India/ Lab Expo India, analytica Munich, analytica China and analytica Vietnam. In 2025, we focus on Africa while the analytica brand expands into North America with the launch of analytica USA in Columbus, Ohio.”
Visitor numbers for analytica Lab Africa grew by 45% during its last edition, thanks to a powerful combination of leading market players in attendance, strong international participation, and unique show features. In 2023, the trade fair boasted exhibitors from across the globe, including powerhouses like Germany, Austria, China, Italy, Norway, India and the UK. Visitors from all over Southern Africa attended the show.
Taking place at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, Gauteng, analytica Lab Africa will be staged in colocation with IFAT Africa – Africa’s leading trade fair for water, sewage, refuse, and recycling. This creates a unique and comprehensive showcase of synergistic solutions for the laboratory analysis, quality control, biotechnology, diagnostics, water, wastewater, and waste management sectors.
" Visitor numbers for analytica Lab Africa grew by 45% during its last edition"
The event will bring together international exhibitors, leading brands and industry decision makers for three days of discovery and networking. In line with the international formula for analytica events, analytica Lab Africa features an extensive exhibition area with live product interaction, industry training and workshops focusing on best practices, trends and emerging technologies.
Singh adds: “analytica Lab Africa remains the only show of its kind for the sector in Africa. Stakeholders welcome the opportunity to learn, network and see the latest trends and innovations in the world of lab technology, diagnostics and analysis solutions. At the last analytica Lab Africa in 2023, 107 top domestic and international exhibitors showcased 230 leading brands. In co-location with IFAT Africa, the events brought together over 8 000 local and international visitors across a broad value chain including water and waste, recycling and environmental technologies.”
Decision makers attending analytica Lab Africa work in sectors as diverse as the environmental technology, food and beverage, chemical and petrochemical, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, medical, mining, biotechnology, agriculture, water and gas, research and development, academic, life sciences, textile, clinical research, diagnostics, veterinary medicine, automotive industry, pulp, paper and packaging, steel and metals, electronics, nuclear, plastics, rubber and glass and pathology sectors.
Sponsorship and exhibitor packages are now available. For more information about analytica Lab Africa, visit: https://analytica-africa.com/en/
Visuals from the 2023 trade show
IFF honours two leading biosciences academics
IFF recently presented two leading university scientists with IFF Science Awards for their work in advancing the future of food, nutrition and health. The IFF Science Awards recognise individuals for their remarkable achievements in the field of science, specifically within food, the microbiome, nutrition, health, biocatalysis and sustainability. This year’s recipients are Tom Desmet of Ghent University in Belgium, and Yolanda Sanz of the Institute of Agrochemistry and Food Technology (IATA) and the Spanish Research Council (CSIC) in Valencia, Spain.
“IFF has a strong history of research collaborations with customers, academics and start-ups, which enhance our ability to deliver novel, sustainable solutions to our customers everywhere we operate,” said Casper Vroemen, IFF chief R&D officer. “On behalf of the IFF scientific community, I’m proud to celebrate and honour two renowned scientists who are pushing the limits of science to create a better world.” The 2024 IFF Science Award honorees are:
• Tom Desmet was selected for his groundbreaking work in the field of biocatalysis. Tom has dedicated his scientific career to the identification and design of new enzymes for the synthesis of carbohydrates, which has enabled a more systematic exploration of their diverse functionalities. His contributions have had a profound impact on both academic research and industrial applications.
• Yolanda Sanz was recognised for her pioneering contributions to human microbiome science investigating the relationships between the gut microbiome and celiac disease. This work recently extended to
exploring the role of the gut microbiome in obesity and stress-related disorders.
Her work has been pivotal in advancing the knowledge of complex interactions between diet, microbiota and health and its translation to society.
IFF has a long-standing commitment to, and investment in, scientific advancement for a better world. The Danisco Foundation was established in 1981 with a mission to provide funding and grants supporting food science and research. It is a legacy that IFF continues to support after merging with DuPont’s Nutrition and Biosciences in 2021.
This year the IFF Science Awards include a $30 000 prize for each recipient. Award candidates are selected by the Board of Directors for the Danisco Foundation following a rigorous nomination process by IFF Technical Fellow/Laureates, as well as research and development leaders.
Yolanda Sanz of IATA and the CSIC, and Tom Desmet of Ghent University
Next-gen air compressors drive innovation in plastics manufacturing
Integrated Air Solutions – a prominent name in advanced air compression technology, equipment and services – has reinforced its partnership with global compressor manufacturer, ABC Compressors, by facilitating the installation and commissioning of two next-generation direct drive ABC machines at a prominent plastics manufacturer in South Africa.
One of the first of their kind in Africa, the Horizon oil-free machines from ABC Compressors employ a direct drive system, which replaces the traditional belt-driven mechanism. This cutting-edge direct-coupled motor design eliminates the need for regular belt adjustments, ensuring higher operational efficiency and significantly reduced energy losses, with notable energy savings of up to 15%.
In addition, the advanced Horizon oil-free technology is known for its robust, low-maintenance design and longer intervals between services that result in reduced maintenance and related costs.
“The arrival of ABC’s new direct drive compressors in South Africa sets new energy efficiency and reliability benchmarks for compressed air generation,” notes Wayne Jacobs, managing director at Integrated Air Solutions. “The added value of reduced maintenance requirements also drives up machine uptime and subsequently increased production levels.”
With capacities of up to 6 000m³/h, these direct drive compressors feature an efficient, horizontally opposed cylinder structure that virtually eliminates vibration. Jacobs points out that this innovative design enhances the lifespan of key components and offers a highly efficient compressor solution tailored to high-performance demands.
Integrated Air Solutions is responsible for the installation and commissioning of two of ABC Compressor’s Horizon oil-free machines at the plastics manufacturer’s facilities in Johannesburg and Cape Town.
“We will also provide the necessary ongoing service and maintenance support at both plants to ensure enhanced performance and longevity of the compressors for the customer,” affirms Jacobs.
As the exclusive distributor of ABC’s PET high-pressure, oil-free compressors in South Africa, Integrated Air Solutions provides turnkey support that includes technical services and spare parts supply.
Syntegon and Telstar officially join forces
Following regulatory approval , Syntegon and Azbil Corporation have officially closed the acquisition of Telstar by Syntegon. The Telstar workforce will join the Syntegon team in the Pharma Liquid Business Unit. With the joint offering of fill-finish equipment, isolator systems, freezedryers, loading and unloading systems as well as further upstream and downstream equipment, customers now have access to a seamless technology and service portfolio to produce antibiotics, vaccines, or biologics.
“Syntegon is world market leader in liquid vial filling and isolator systems. Together with Telstar, we will further enhance our portfolio of innovative technologies and sustainable solutions, strengthen our strategic growth, and expand our global reach,” says Torsten Türling, CEO of the Syntegon Group. “We received highly positive customer feedback and several inquiries for our joint offering following the acquisition announcement in June. This clearly shows that we are on the right track to becoming the go-to partner for seamless solutions from a single source.”
“Using the synergies of a strong team, we can offer truly seamless line solutions”
“We are very much looking forward to leveraging our joint expertise for the benefits of our existing and new customers,” says Jordi Puig, managing director of Telstar.
“By using the synergies of a strong team, we can offer truly seamless line solutions and streamlined processes with one face to the customer. This way, we will support them even better in achieving long-term stability of their pharmaceuticals and fast time to market.”
Telstar, headquartered in Terrassa (Barcelona), Spain, has four production plants, six technology centres and 10 consultancy and engineering services centres, and commercial offices all over the world. By combining these capabilities with Syntegon’s global reach, both companies are now in an even better position to offer complete line solutions to pharmaceutical manufacturers and contract manufacturing organisations. Moreover, the joint service network will be expanded significantly, adding geographical coverage, proximity and application expertise.
Integrated Air Solutions installs and commissions two ABC Compressors Horizon direct drive machines at plastics manufacturing facilities in Johannesburg and Cape Town
Torsten Türling, CEO of the Syntegon Group, and Jordi Puig, managing director of Telstar, celebrate this important strategic milestone
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The future of clinical trials in SA
Kirsten Kirkwood of SHA Risk Specialists delves into the evolving landscape of clinical trials in South Africa and highlights the importance of liability insurance in this field.
South Africa is a significant hub for clinical trials in Africa, particularly in the sphere of infectious diseases. A large portion of these clinical trials are dedicated to researching and developing treatments for HIV, tuberculosis, and malaria given the local statistics for infectious diseases.
While our clinical trial market may not be as large as other regions in the world, it has seen noticeable growth in recent years. Numerous pharmaceutical companies, clinical research organisations (CROs), and academic institutions have established operations in the country.
The main governing body for clinical trials outside of the existing legislative frameworks is the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA), responsible for overseeing the safety, quality and efficacy of all medicines, medical devices and related products in South Africa.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PROCESS
The traditional clinical trial process is a lengthy and complex endeavor, typically involving the following stages:
1. Drug discovery to identify a potential drug candidate through research and development.
2. Preclinical testing the drug on animals to assess safety and efficacy.
3. Clinical trials whereby the drug is tested on humans in multiple phases, such as:
• Phase I to assess safety, tolerability and pharmacokinetics (how the body absorbs, distributes, metabolises, and excretes the substance).
• Phase II, focusing on efficacy, safety and dosage determination.
• Phase III to confirm efficacy and safety on a larger scale of research subjects.
• Phase IV to collect additional data on longterm safety and efficacy.
4. Regulatory approval, whereby data is submitted to regulatory authorities for drug approval.
5. Post-market surveillance to monitor drug performance and safety after release on the market.
LOOKING AHEAD TO AI
Given the rapid advancements in technology, it is imperative to explore tools that could fundamentally transform the way clinical trials are conducted, potentially accelerating traditional timelines.
AI is rapidly transforming various industries, and healthcare is no exception. By leveraging the capabilities of AI, researchers can potentially streamline the trial process, accelerate drug development and enhance patient outcomes.
"AI is rapidly transforming various industries, and healthcare is no exception"
Through advanced data analysis, AI can assist with identifying suitable patients more efficiently, generating valuable insights from complex datasets while efficiently identifying patterns and trends. Using AI is also likely to result in a reduction in trial costs and timelines through efficient resource allocation. This technology can also impact regulatory compliance by automating the data management and reporting processes.
One of the biggest challenges that currently exists with AI is algorithm bias, which occurs when an AI system makes systematically unfair decisions due to biases present in the data on which it was trained.
This would impact the integrity of the data it provides.
CLINICAL TRIAL INSURANCE
SAHPRA requires each clinical trial to carry its own liability insurance to protect the participants of the trial against bodily injury, death, or property damage caused by the clinical trial.
No-fault liability and legal liability are the two forms of liability cover for clinical trials.
No-fault liability occurs where participants are provided with compensation for injuries and/or damages sustained during the trial without the onus of proving that there was negligence on the part of the trial sponsor/ facilitator or investigators.
Legal liability occurs when a person or entity is legally responsible for causing harm or damage as a result of their actions/services. This type of policy requires a third-party to initiate legal action against the insured to prove that their negligence caused the harm and/or damage.
SHA, a division of Santam, is a long-standing clinical trial insurance provider offering a product on a no-fault basis. No-fault clinical trial insurance is mandatory in South Africa, as this strengthens the ethical and safety requirements within the nation’s clinical research environment and offers crucial protection for trial participants. •
Did you know?
A list of all clinical trials currently being undertaken can be found on the South African National Clinical Trials Register website, which is open to the public.
SHA Risk Specialists – www.sha.co.za
Wellness-driven scents on the rise
As consumer demand and regulations evolve, fragrance industry leaders are focused on the future of perfumery and aroma ingredients. In an interview with P&C Review, fragrance industry expert Mahdi Zahreddine shares how sustainability, well-being and niche innovations are set to redefine fragrance trends in 2025. By Abby Vorster
There is no slowing the demand for sustainable and natural fragrances. As consumers become more and more eco-conscious, they want perfumes that align with their ethical values and sustainable practices.
Zahreddine points out that the industry is responding by focusing on ethical sourcing and prioritising ingredients that are safe for consumers and environmentally friendly. Despite this, the complexity remains in achieving a balance between natural and synthetic ingredients.
“It’s a misconception that all synthetic fragrances are harmful and that all natural ingredients are safe,” Zahreddine explains.
"It’s a misconception that all synthetic fragrances are harmful"
Certain natural ingredients, such as lemon and saffron oils, can be allergenic or even harmful if used excessively. To ensure safety and sustainability,
Mahdi Zahreddine has over 12 years' experience in the fragrance industry
the fragrance industry is leveraging advancements in research and technology to develop synthetic ingredients that meet rigorous safety standards.
Zahreddine highlights that regulated synthetic ingredients can offer a safer, more sustainable alternative to some natural components, contributing to a responsible approach that aligns with international standards, including IFRA, REACH, EU regulations, and US FDA guidelines.
THE ‘EXTRAIT DE PARFUM’ REVOLUTION
In recent years, niche fragrances have gained significant popularity, and Zahreddine foresees this trend continuing, especially within the realm of high-concentration perfumes known as ‘Extrait De Parfum’.
Brands are experimenting with unprecedented fragrance dosages, creating a new level of intensity and longevity. For example, Zahreddine points to AMOUAGE’s GUIDANCE 46, which incorporates an impressive 46% fragrance concentration.
Other brands, like MATIERE PREMIERE, are following suit, launching iconic collections within the Extrait De Parfum category. This trend signals a shift in consumer preference toward bold, personalised scents that challenge traditional norms.
“Consumers are seeking fragrances that not only have a unique identity but also offer a lasting olfactive experience,” he notes. “By embracing high concentrations, brands are providing richer, more immersive fragrance experiences that speak to a desire for self-expression.”
Here the challenge lies in meeting consumer demand without compromising safety or ethical considerations.
Zahreddine adds: “To develop fragrances that tick all the boxes in terms of what consumers want and need, perfumers, analysts, fragrance evaluators, and the quality assurance team need to work together.”
WELL-BEING TO INFLUENCE CONSUMER CHOICE
Another trend spurred on by the pandemic is the use of fragrance to promote well-being. With the heightened awareness around health and self-care, consumers are increasingly turning to scents that evoke relaxation, reduce stress, and elevate mood.
" We take sustainability very seriously – it is at the core of our fragrance development mission"
“Thanks to their molecular structures, essential oils can interact with the brain in ways that relieve stress and anxiety. This aligns with growing consumer desire for mood-boosting fragrances, which are often designed to be layered for customisation. The layering trend offers consumers the flexibility to personalise their scents, combining notes that best suit their emotional needs and preferences.”
SUSTAINABILITY AS A CORE DEVELOPMENT PRINCIPLE
As sustainability continues to drive consumer purchasing decisions, fragrance brands are focusing on reducing their environmental impact while ensuring ethical production practices. For many fragrance houses sustainability is a guiding principle.
This has contributed to a rise in aromatherapy-inspired fragrances, which are crafted to tap into the psychological effects of essential oils.
“Essential oils have an emotional impact that can reach our psyche, relaxing the mind and lifting one’s mood,” Zahreddine explains.
prioritise environmental stewardship in their purchasing decisions.
"We combine technology, novel ingredients and evolving practices to craft perfumes that resonate with a wide range of consumers."
EXCITING PROJECTS ON THE CARDS
With several collaborations in the pipeline, Zahreddine's future projects exemplify a commitment to innovation and sustainability. His team has partnered with a vegan personal care brand to launch new lines of home fragrances, personal care items, and perfumes in the GCC region, scheduled for release between November 2024 and February 2025.
Zahreddine highlights that this commitment to sustainability should extend to every aspect of the operations within a fragrance house. By minimising resource consumption and promoting ethical sourcing, environmentally responsible and sustainability focused fragrance houses are setting a standard for the industry.
"For this reason, we take sustainability very seriously – it is at the core of our fragrance development
Zahreddine is also working with several renowned niche brands to bring exclusive scents to the global market.
EMBRACING THE FUTURE OF FRAGRANCE
As the fragrance industry moves into 2025, Zahreddine's insights paint a picture of an industry on the cusp of transformation.
Driven by sustainability, wellness and a hunger for high-quality, personalised experiences, fragrance brands are innovating in response to changing consumer expectations. Whether it’s the shift towards natural and synthetic balance, the allure of Extrait De Parfum, or the integration of well-being into scent design, the trends Zahreddine discusses reflect an industry deeply attuned to consumer desires and compliance with global standards.
As suppliers of fragrances and aroma ingredients forge ahead, they are shaping the scents of the future while establishing a more responsible and meaningful approach to perfumery. •
Regulatory scents
Nadia Rashid, CTFA’s technical and regulatory manager, explores the evolving landscape of fragrance regulations and how brands can continue to innovate while ensuring safety for consumers.
Fragrance has always influenced a large portion of the decision in the purchase of a cosmetic product. A favourite bodywash or hand cream may have become almost a signature scent.
Fragrance is not only known for being an addition to leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic products for masking or sensorial aesthetic purposes, but also holds its own as an entire category.
As a category, fragrance embraces centuries old traditional practices, involves highly skilled personnel and encompasses an epitome of luxury. With time, it appears as if fragrance has been put under the spotlight and now significantly influences the decision-making process. Heightened awareness of the potential harmful reactions caused by allergens in popular fragrances has led to increased scrutiny and stricter regulations.
This increased concern may even prompt some to avoid scented products altogether, opting instead for fragrancefree alternatives to prevent possible contact reactions.
ALLERGEN REQUIREMENTS
An allergen can originate from various sources in a cosmetic product and not just
from the fragrance used. This is a common misconception on the part of the consumer and an important consideration for the formulator/manufacturer when using the term ‘fragrance allergen’.
"An allergen can originate from various sources in a cosmetic product"
Botanical extracts and oils as well as impurities in other raw materials used in the formulation can be the cause of a reaction
such as contact dermatitis. In fact, it is noteworthy to consider that most natural botanicals contain at least one allergen.
The industry had gotten accustomed to checking the list of 26 allergens when calculating which of the allergens were declarable on the INCI list, until two of the allergens – Lyral (INCI: Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde) and Lilial (INCI: Butylphenyl Methylpropional) – were added to the list of prohibited substances. This left 24 fragrance allergens subject to declaration, with more to follow.
In July 2023, the official regulation released by the EU listed 56 additional allergens, which are now subject to presence declaration. Meaning, should an existing formulation contain any of the
allergens at or above the threshold limits given for rinse-off and leave-on products – i.e. 0.01% and 0.001% respectively – then the allergen would need to be declared on the label. Although this might prove to be burdensome on the manufacturer, it is important to understand that the objective of this regulation is to protect allergic individuals by providing this previously undeclared information on primary packaging. In turn, it serves well in playing the part in the safety and interests of the consumer.
This allergen extension regulation was not done in haste – it has been under scientific opinion and evaluation for more than a decade. After deliberation and consultation with local stakeholders, it was decided that South Africa will align precisely with the EU on deadlines. Products have until 31 July 2026 to be placed, and until 31 July 2028 to be made available, on the EU and local markets.
RESOURCES TO NAVIGATE REGULATIONS
The Cosmetic Compendium of the Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) and the CTFA Annex reminder document are invaluable resources when navigating such regulations. With each substance individually listed along with their respective deadlines, manufacturers have been informed of the regulations well in advance and reminders are sent out periodically.
Focussing on this topic, CTFA has hosted two information sessions this year where members of the association and nonmembers were invited to attend. The aim of these sessions is to assist all companies in navigating these regulatory changes, which affect all in some way.
"Regulation in the fragrance arena should not be seen as a barrier to innovation"
For those responsible for compiling a product's INCI list, it’s important to understand that allergen listings can be more complex than they initially appear. Concepts like 'group listings' and 'scope of the material' play a significant role.
Group listings involve using a single name to represent all parts or species of a botanical (or a group), such as specific parts like the leaf or peel. This means that the INCI name declared would be a single, unified name, even if multiple parts or species from the same botanical family are present in the formulation.
The 'scope' refers to whether a particular part of a botanical must be listed. For instance, a leaf extract
might need to be declared if present in the product, while the bark might not, depending on the regulatory requirements.
It is important to accurately identify the raw materials used, verify their scope, and account for all constituents that may need to be included in the final declaration – especially if an allergen could come from multiple sources. Finally, ensure that the correct name is used on the label declaration.
FINDING BALANCE IN A FAST-PACED WORLD
Regulation in the fragrance arena should not be seen as a barrier to innovation. With the age of awareness and safety, the trends of natural scents and sustainable resources can be met with confidence.
Instantaneous access to information, constant bombardment of stimuli and the new norm of a faster pace, scent trends are leaning toward giving the user a calming, more tranquil sense of balance – a way to slow down and be present.
Nature in all its glory is embraced with florals and fruity scents evoking a feeling of freedom and release, or perhaps an escape to a sweet playful fantasy world or a strong empowering scent that boldly announce presence and lasts a longer time to stand out in a crowd are trending going into the new year.
Manufacturers will continue to have access to a wide range of scents, whether from revised fragrance oil blends or natural botanicals. They can confidently create signature scents and innovative products, such as hair perfumes, that are both safe for consumers and in line with current trends. •
CTFA – https://ctfa.co.za/
New quinoa-based, skin-friendly emulsifier
Pickmulse™ is the first quinoa starch-based ingredient that supports the easy formulation of Pickering emulsions with an outstanding sensory skin feel.
Clariant has announced the global launch of Pickmulse , a new o/w surfactantfree emulsifier and encapsulation system based on the breakthrough patented quinoa starch technology developed by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.
“Pickmulse™ offers a multifaceted and innovative approach to cosmetics. We’ve designed this approach to significantly accelerate new formula development and improve consumer satisfaction,” says Isabelle Lacasse, head global marketing, product line management and formulation, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics at Clariant. “This next generation of two-in-one products balances formulation needs as well as skin health and feel.”
Pickmulse™ is a surfactant-free emulsifier that preserves skin balance compared to traditional emulsifiers, while maintaining a high level of sensory quality. This is necessary as consumers become increasingly aware of sensitive skin issues and the importance of maintaining skin microbiota.
EASY FORMULATION AND PROVEN SENSORY BENEFITS
Due to the small size of quinoa starch particles, this ingredient allows for easy formulation of
Pickering emulsions with an outstanding sensory skin feel.
An improved tactile experience has been proven by scientific studies to stimulate wellbeing and reward areas in the brain, aligning with emerging market trends in neurocosmetics. These experiments included functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) and electroencephalogram (EEG) measurements, while the perceived benefits were also confirmed using panelist questionnaires.
"Pickmulse™ can be used to design formulations of varied textures from sprays to supple creams"
Pickmulse does not destabilise the stratum corneum, assuring high skin tolerance. When emulsified with 20% oil, Pickmulse™ can be used to design formulations of varied textures from sprays to supple creams, under cold conditions.
OPTIMISED ENCAPSULATION SYSTEM
Quinoa starch has unique swelling properties, which facilitate the encapsulation of lipophilic molecules under hot-processed conditions. As an
encapsulation system, Pickmulse can increase the stability of sensitive ingredients such as vitamin A palmitate, retinol and coenzyme Q10. It also enhances the sensory feel of ingredients in the formulation.
Pickmulse™ offers formulators a cost-effective and user-friendly solution for in-house encapsulation exhibiting a high loading capacity (up to 25%) and a demonstrated efficacy to protect sensitive lipophilic ingredients.
This formulation technology is derived from quinoa, a nutrient-rich grain cultivated for centuries in Latin America. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant sources organic quinoa in a responsible manner from fields in Bolivia, which have been cultivated for extended periods. The company collaborates with the Pro Inpa Foundation to foster a more resilient local economy. As a responsibly sourced ingredient, Pickmulse™ addresses growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly cosmetic components. •
MAIN BENEFITS OF PICKMULSE™
• High skin tolerance
Allows for the development of pearly white formulas
Strong and quick stability confidence
• Easy and cost-efficient in-house encapsulation of any lipophilic ingredient.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant –www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Value-adding solutions with a local focus
With an extensive portfolio and a dedication to tailored solutions, Brenntag SA is driving product excellence and setting new benchmarks in ingredient supply and formulation innovation across our country. By
Abby Vorster
Brenntag SA is known for its dedication to providing premium-quality ingredients and raw materials across the personal care, beauty, home care and pharma industries, as well as various industrial sectors. By combining innovative solutions with a commitment to sustainability, the company has established itself as a preferred partner for manufacturers and brand owners who prioritise quality, efficacy and safety in their products.
The company has an extensive portfolio of ingredients, sourced from reputable partners across the globe. Its personal care and beauty portfolio includes conditioning agents, colourants, pigments, dyes, preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, sunscreens, fragrances, blends, surfactants, rheology modifiers, soap noodles, vitamins, and waxes. Within the home care and I&I portfolio, Brenntag SA offers acids, antimicrobial control agents, chelating agents, phosphates, corrosion inhibitors, enzymes, stabilisers and optical effect products.
MEETING MARKET DEMANDS WITH SPEED AND RELIABILITY
Understanding the unique needs of the South African market, Brenntag SA has tailored operations to meet demand both quickly and reliably. It employs around 150 people throughout South Africa and maintains a robust logistics network, which includes
dedicated fleet and seven warehouses located nationwide.
By holding high inventory levels, Brenntag SA mitigates potential supply chain disruptions, ensuring that customer needs are met without delay.
" Brenntag SA’s dedication to quality, sustainability and innovative ingredient solutions makes it a valued partner "
Recognising that many players in the South African personal care market are small and medium enterprises, the local business also offers ingredients in smaller pack sizes, making premium quality raw materials more accessible and affordable for emerging brands.
CUSTOMISED, VALUE-ADDING SERVICES
Brenntag SA’s personal care experts are fuelled by a true passion for their work and a strong commitment to delivering exceptional solutions to customers. With extensive market experience and expertise in applications and formulations, the team excels at providing customised, value-adding
services. Tailored specifically for the South African market, the team has developed two versatile base products – a surfactant and a cream base – which can be enriched with active ingredients to achieve desired textures and claims. The innovation behind these base products reflects Brenntag’s commitment to offering value-added services that empower customers.
To support customers on their journey from idea to execution, Brenntag has 14 state-of-the-art Personal Care Innovation & Application Centres across the globe, with plans to establish a 15 th innovation and application centre in South Africa in 2025. This laboratory and R&D facility will focus on developing innovative concepts while helping to drive new trends that are relevant to the South African market.
EXPANSION INTO UV PROTECTION SOLUTIONS
Building on its comprehensive offerings, Brenntag recently expanded its personal care ingredients portfolio through a new distribution agreement with Sarex, securing exclusive access to advanced UV protection ingredients for skincare applications. This strategic move aligns with the increasing consumer focus on protective skincare. Formulators can now access these UV protection solutions from Brenntag SA to develop sun care products that
offer superior protection against environmental stressors.
The distribution agreement reflects Brenntag’s commitment to staying ahead of market trends while responding to growing demands for safe and effective sun protection solutions. As consumers become increasingly aware of the impacts of UV exposure, Brenntag’s expanded UV protection ingredient range is a timely addition that enables brands to enhance the protective benefits of their skincare lines.
IN-HOUSE FORMULATION TECHNOLOGIES
Although Brenntag operates mainly as a distributor of ingredients and raw materials, it has the capacity and expertise to develop formulation technologies in house. One example is CosVivet HA. This line of bioactive sodium hyaluronate produced through bio-fermentation provides highly effective, natural moisturising benefits in skincare and hair care applications. Recognised for its impressive hydrating properties, CosVivet HA meets the need for effective moisturisers and anti-ageing solutions, making it a versatile choice in personal care formulations.
CosVivet HA is particularly beneficial in skincare applications. Known for its ability to hydrate dry, mature skin, this bioactive ingredient also helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while soothing irritation. These qualities make it ideal for use in creams, lotions, face masks, and cleansers, where deep and lasting hydration is desired. The ingredient is available in a variety of molecular weights
for tailored benefits. The high molecular weight versions form a protective film on the skin surface, while the low molecular weight options penetrate more deeply for sustained hydration, offering formulators a versatile ingredient that can adapt to varied skincare needs.
SAFETY, QUALITY AND INNOVATION
Brenntag SA’s dedication to quality, sustainability and innovative ingredient solutions makes it a valued partner for brands and manufacturers looking to bring consumer-focused personal care, beauty and home care products to market.
The South African business mirrors Brenntag’s rigorous approach to supply chain management, working closely with its trusted supply partners to guarantee safety and reliability at every stage of the process. These pillars remain a core area of focus of the global business to ensure customers receive top-quality products that are compliant with the latest safety standards and regulations.
By leveraging a deep understanding of local market trends and emerging global innovations, Brenntag SA continues to elevate the quality of products available in the South African market, reinforcing its position as a leader in the ingredient supply chain. •
Did you know?
Brenntag is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. From its humble beginning in 1874 as an egg wholesaler in Berlin, Germany to the multinational business it has become today, Brenntag serves thousands of customers with a unique range of industrial and speciality chemicals, products and value-added services. The company currently operates in more than 70 countries with 600 sites worldwide which provide employment for more than 17 700 people.
Brenntag SA hosted a customer day earlier this year to showcase its SAHPRA accredited warehouse based in Pomona, Gauteng
Cost-effective slow-ageing peptide
Pepsensyal ™ is BASF Personal Care’s new synthetic peptide for skincare applications. Its cost-effectiveness creates opportunities for the broader use of peptides in skincare.
Inspired by the natural regenerative process of the skin, Pepsensyal™ (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl sh-Tetrapeptide-1 (and) Lauroyl sh-Tetrapeptide-1) has been clinically proven to reduce and delay the first visible signs of ageing. The new ingredient is a response to the slow-ageing trend, which reflects a shift in consumer attitudes. Rather than fighting the natural ageing process, consumers are increasingly concerned with healthy ageing through a holistic, preventative approach to skincare.
In recent years, peptides have become increasingly popular in skincare with consumers recognising them as effective, science-backed ingredients. These short chains of amino acids are the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin in the skin.
CLINICALLY PROVEN TRIPLE ACTION
In a double-blind, randomised, split-face clinical trial with 32 women aged between 44 and 64, Pepsensyal™ at 0.2% was tested against a placebo product. After only 14 days, crow's feet appeared smoother, with an 11% decrease in average roughness and a 14% decrease in maximum relief amplitude. At the same time, skin isotropy increased by 15%, indicating a skin resurfacing effect.
REPLENISHED SKIN FROM WITHIN
In that same test, Pepsensyal™ was also proven to replenish the skin from within. After 28 days, the skin had re-densified, with a 21% increase in the echogenic
surface area of the dermis. Extensive in vitro testing has confirmed the ability of the ingredient to support skin regeneration, helping to slow the visible signs of skin ageing.
Pepsensyal™ is just one recent example of how BASF’s Care Chemicals division is addressing future challenges. Sustainability, digitalisation, innovation and new approaches to working together are the key cornerstones to Care 360° – Solutions for Sustainable Life. • BASF Personal
FUNCTIONS AND CONSUMER BENEFITS OF PEPSENSYAL™
• Anti-wrinkle
• Improves barrier function
• Skin firming and resurfacing Increases skin density/thickness
• Wrinkle reduction.
Mintel releases 2025 beauty trends
To help you understand what’s new and next in global consumer behaviour, Mintel has announced three key trends set to impact the global beauty and personal care industry in 2025 and beyond.
In the years to come, you can expect to see AR glasses become integral to daily routines while innovative ingredients like glycoproteins will be derived from lobsters. Meanwhile, we could see skincare that adjusts to varying climate conditions or deodorants that release odour-neutralising molecules based on body temperature. The Mintel 2025 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends are:
1. (My) Knowledge is Power: Consumers will work smarter (not harder), combining knowledge, tools and technology to achieve personalised solutions for superior results.
2 Turning the Tide: With the effect of climate change becoming more evident, brands will be expected to consider eco-ethical implications as consumers demand a seamless connection between ethical practices and high-performance beauty solutions.
3. Think Slow, Move Fast: Emphasising prevention over repair and embracing simplicity, consumers will start their ‘routines’ sooner in life, integrating nostalgic and sensory-rich experiences in pursuit of personalised skincare.
(MY)
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
Andrew McDougall, Mintel director beauty and personal care research, said: “In 2025, consumers will no longer work hard on their beauty routines but rather work smarter, repurposing products like self-tanners as bronzers or using Vaseline for skin ‘slugging’, maximising their effectiveness with minimal effort. Expect a surge in devices that offer on-the-spot analysis and results, empowering users to make informed decisions instantly.”
As Gen Alphas (born 2010 to 2025) reach adulthood, their comfort with AI and virtual experiences will transform the beauty industry. AR glasses will become integral to
daily routines, offering real-time guidance for makeup application. Meanwhile, beauty brands will begin to market products as health-focused, addressing concerns from parents and institutions over younger generations’ beauty obsessions. As medical aesthetics (invasive and noninvasive procedures) become mainstream, products will be designed for pre- and post-procedure care, ensuring consumers achieve optimal results in a rapidly ageing society.
"The beauty industry is headed towards groundbreaking sustainability initiatives"
“Consumers will take control of their routines by hacking traditional practices, embracing biotech innovations and leveraging AI for tailored, results-oriented beauty, emphasising individuality and longterm skin health.”
TURNING THE TIDE
McDougall adds: “Consumers are demanding products that not only deliver on performance but also prioritise environmental responsibility.
The beauty industry is headed towards groundbreaking sustainability initiatives that harmonise with the Earth’s natural systems. Brands will explore solutions rooted in the soil, leveraging regenerative farming and sustainable fishing practices. Innovative ingredients like glycoproteins derived from lobsters will become more common, offering high-performance benefits while supporting marine conservation.”
As precision fermentation and vertical farming become mainstream, beauty brands will adopt these technologies to produce
bio-synthetic ingredients with minimal environmental impact.
Future beauty products will be designed to adapt to environmental and physiological changes in real-time. Imagine skincare that adjusts to varying climate conditions or deodorants that release odour-neutralising molecules based on body temperature. These climate-adaptive products will offer highly personalised experiences, blending technology with nature.
THINK SLOW, MOVE FAST
“In 2025, beauty will increasingly emphasise comfort and emotional well-being, much like the comfort food movement. Ingredients, textures and products will evoke simpler times, focusing on sensorial experiences that soothe and nourish. Brands will also need to adapt to the growing trend of slow living by aligning their innovation cycles with more sustainable and mindful consumption patterns. This means creating products that are not only effective but also designed for underconsumption, catering to budget-conscious consumers,” McDougall comments.
Brands will explore the intersection of neuroscience and beauty, offering routines that evoke the tranquility of a mountain retreat or the serenity of nature through scent and texture. To build credibility, companies will highlight the efficacy of their products through scientific testing and innovative ingredients. Regenerative beauty will emerge as a key concept, blending sustainability, mental wellbeing and longevity. Brands like Acorn Labs might lead the way by offering innovative services like cryo-preserving cells, allowing consumers to regenerate their beauty from within as part of a long-term wellness strategy. •
Visit https://tinyurl.com/yewjsyfa to download Mintel’s free 2025 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends report.
CefiraProtect CLRTM
Empowering skin‘s resilience
• Skincare companion for resilient oxidative balance
• From Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens with hero-ingredient kefiran
• Protects vital proteins and enables skin self-maintenance
• Improves skin barrier, firmness, elasticity and in-depth inflammation
Ancient wisdom meets modern science for ultimate skin defence
As our skin faces increasing challenges from external factors, it's time to explore the powerful blend of ancient wisdom and modern science. Drawing on the long-standing benefits of kefir, CLR Berlin has developed an innovative vegan postbiotic ingredient, which is clinically proven to soothe and rejuvenate the skin.
In an overwhelming world, there is something comforting about the use of traditional, proven and beloved ingredients in our day-to-day lives. A convincing and noticeable effect of a product will ensure that a comforting ritual, be it external or internal, is passed on from generation to generation. An example is the fermented milk drink kefir, which is famed worldwide for its healthpromoting effects. Regular consumption of kefir is not only beneficial to the digestive system, but it also strengthens the immune system through various bioactive peptides and exopolysaccharides produced during the fermentation process. Ultimately it preserves an internal balance that helps us withstand external influences with increased ease.
With this rich history in mind, CLR has blended the ancient tradition of kefir with cutting-edge biotechnology to develop an impactful active ingredient that keeps skin in oxidative balance.
CefiraProtect CLR ™ is an innovative, vegan fermented skincare ingredient that is based on a lysate of Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens , the main bacteria of kefir grains producing the high-value ingredient kefiran. Using these bacteria during the fermentation process, the balancing power of kefir can be translated into a supportive effect for the skin, all on a vegan basis.
Cultivating these milk-loving bacteria in a plant-based way is anything but straightforward. For many decades, CLR has been recognised for its exceptional expertise in fermentation processes, particularly in the preservation of plant lysates. These so-called postbiotics are known for their high efficacy, bioavailability and tolerability in skincare
applications. Based on this extensive knowledge, CLR accomplished the challenging task of enabling an organism to produce valuable nutrients outside its biological comfort zone.
HUMAN SKIN AND THE EXPOSOME
When we step outside our comfort zones, we encounter many external factors that can impact our wellbeing and skin. These harmful influences – like UV radiation, stress, pollution, lack of sleep and poor diet – are part of what’s called the exposome. It’s a set of conditions that everyone is exposed to overtime. Though these factors might seem overwhelming, they affect the skin at a cellular level by triggering the formation of free radicals, which are highly reactive molecules that can cause potential skin damage.
CELLULAR SELF-DEFENSE AGAINST FREE RADICALS
Skin is incredibly smart. Usually it can neutralise free radicals, provided the process takes place when skin is in oxidative balance. However, oxidative
balance cannot be maintained if factors of external stress accumulate, tipping the balance to oxidative stress. When skin's antioxidant levels are depleted, it needs added support to restore its natural parameters of self-protection, which help skin function as a barrier for the body and to maintain a healthy, radiant appearance.
Biomolecules like proteins – mainly collagen, keratin, elastin, and enzymes in the skin – undergo uncontrolled oxidation during oxidative stress. This alters their three-dimensional structure, impairing their biological function. As a result, the skin may experience irritation, a weakened barrier, reduced elasticity and firmness, and overall compromised function.
With CefiraProtect CLR ™, skin’s selfdefense mechanisms are given a boost, resulting in regained oxidative balance and protein protection in all the layers of the skin coupled with higher skin quality and resilience.
PROTECTION AGAINST PROTEIN OXIDATION
To visualise the effect of CefiraProtect CLR ™ at the cellular level, human skin explants were stressed with UV-A radiation to such an extent that the formation of free radicals was stimulated, resulting in oxidative damage to the proteins.
These proteins can be seen using fluorescence detection on an epifluorescence microscope. The more intense the fluorescence signal, the higher
"
With CefiraProtect CLR™ , skin’s self-defense mechanisms are given a boost"
Figure 1: External factors, summarised under the term exposome, which can have a negative effect on the condition of the skin
Figure 2: As soon as the external factors of the exposome accumulate, skin's cellular self-defense mechanism for maintaining oxidative balance is exhausted, leading to oxidative stress. As a result, the skin's proteins are oxidised and their structure and functionality disrupted
the concentration of oxidised proteins after UV-A irradiation. In untreated skin, the skin looks like a burning fire. The high oxidative damage is particularly evident in the stratum corneum and the dermal-epidermal junction.
The dermis, where collagen and elastin are found, also shows high levels of oxidised proteins. When the explant is treated with CefiraProtect CLR ™, the ‘oxidative fire’ does not occur. By significantly reducing the formation of free radicals, the proteins are protected in all the skin’s layers.
SKIN-CALMING EXPOSOME SIMULATION STUDY
In vivo experiments were subsequently performed to confirm that CefiraProtect CLR was able to improve skin recovery after exposure to an exposome-relevant stress and its protective effects, in essence improving skin resilience against the exposome.
During the first or so-called irritation phase, no test products were applied, yet skin was challenged twice a day with a 5% Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) solution in water for a total of seven days. During the next seven days, the treatment phase occurred whereby skin was treated twice daily with test products (either CefiraProtect CLR ™ (3%), a placebo, or untreated). In this second phase, the study looked at how quickly the redness caused by SDS decreased and skin calmed down after applying the product.
In the third and last phase, test products were applied twice daily. One hour after application of the test products, skin was again challenged with 5% SDS. In this phase the aim was to determine whether the treatment had an impact on the renewed exposure to SDS and if the different treatments led to a difference in skin resilience. Skin redness was determined with a Minolta Chromameter CR 400 (Minolta, Japan) using the CIELab colour space. Irritated skin shows a higher red component, which can be quantified by the a* value. Each value is the average of three recordings. Base redness was set at 0%.
After the irritation phase with SDS, a model for the negative influence of the exposome, the skin irritation, noticeable by skin redness, is regulated faster with CefiraProtect CLR than with the placebo or when untreated. After renewed external stress from day 14, the skin treated with CefiraProtect CLR ™ was significantly more resilient and 50% less reddened compared with the first stress response after day seven.
The results show that the skin can calm down faster post external irritation, while becoming increasingly robust through regular use of CefiraProtect CLR . Ultimately, it will react less intensely to future stress. This long-lasting effect makes it a daily skincare companion, which has been proven to strengthen the skin barrier by 9.4%, improve elasticity by 7%, and improve existing skin sagging by 16.9%.
By uniting the rich tradition of kefir with cutting-edge biotechnology for plant-based actives, CefiraProtect CLR ™ can empower the skin to better meet these challenges, ultimately preserving its youthful radiance while entering a new era of comfort and resilience.
CefiraProtect CLR ™ is available in South Africa from IMCD. •
Figure 3: In-situ visualisation of skin-deep protein oxidation in a human skin explant after UV-A radiation
Figure 4: Reduction of redness after external stress and empowered resilience of skin
Rigorous testing crucial for eco-conscious cosmetics
SGS, a leading global testing, inspection and certification company, supports the cosmetics industry in meeting the changing demands for eco-conscious beauty products with advanced testing solutions.
Sustainability is now a key concern in all industries, including cosmetics and personal care. Consumers prefer brands that consider the environmental impact of their products throughout the entire lifecycle –from sourcing ingredients and manufacturing processes to packaging, use and disposal. In competitive markets, embracing a sustainable approach is not only beneficial for the planet, but it also builds competitive advantage. Manufacturers and suppliers should consider the following:
• Sustainably sourced ingredients derived from renewable resources with a low carbon footprint, including natural substances and the avoidance of harmful chemicals.
• Eco-friendly packaging that is designed for recycling and made from recycled and/or biodegradable materials.
• Conserving water through recycling and reuse during manufacturing, as well as developing formulations that limit water usage.
• Efficient waste management strategies that enable ‘reduce, reuse and recycle’ throughout a product's lifecycle.
TESTING TO EVALUATE SUSTAINABILITY CLAIMS
To gain maximum commercial advantage, businesses must provide clear and honest communication about the sustainability of their products to consumers.
SGS provides a comprehensive suite of testing services to ensure regulatory compliance and to accurately evaluate a product’s sustainability claims. Its testing services cover the following:
• Safety – to ensure a product is free from prohibited substances like formaldehyde, heavy metals, allergens, phthalates,
pesticides and endocrine disruptors.
• Natural ingredients – certification that a product contains natural and/or organic ingredients and is free of synthetic fragrances. Advanced techniques like droplet digital PCR (ddPCR) can be used to verify nonGMO status, with product certifications like IGENTM confirming authenticity.
• Biodegradability – scientific testing to determine the breakdown rate of materials by microorganisms is particularly important for cosmetics that may be rinsed off into water systems. The OECD 301 test series helps determine a percentage biodegradation value, where a product is considered biodegradable if it breaks down by at least 60% in 28 days under the specific parameters of the test.
• Ecotoxicity – evaluates the potential environmental harm of products and ingredients, including their effects on aquatic life, soil ecosystems and wastewater treatment processes. Tests like OECD 236 (acute toxicity) and REEFTOX (impact on coral reefs) assess the immediate and long-term ecological effects.
• Microplastics and PFAS – regulatory pressure over these particles and substances is growing. Sophisticated solutions such as light microscopy, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and scanning electron microscope/energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM/EDX) are being used to detect their presence.
GET TESTED TO AVOID GREENWASHING
Since there is a commercial advantage in making claims around reduced environmental impact in eco-conscious beauty markets, there is also the risk of ‘greenwashing’.
SGS enables companies to avoid greenwashing through robust and trusted
testing and certification solutions that validate the authenticity of their environmental claims. These solutions not only foster consumer trust but also ensure compliance with evolving regulatory frameworks, such as the upcoming EU Green Claims Directive, which is set to take effect in 2026.
By staying at the forefront of sustainability testing in the cosmetics and hygiene sectors, SGS offers comprehensive services that empower brands to confidently showcase their eco-friendly practices and differentiate themselves in an increasingly environmentally conscious market. •
COMPLIANCE SOLUTIONS FOR COSMETICS AND PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
SGS is recognised as the benchmark for quality and integrity. Wherever you operate in the world, SGS can support you at every step during product development – from raw materials to the finished product – helping you to deliver safe, effective and compliant products to global markets. SGS covers the following categories: skin care, sun care, hair care, bath and body wash, color cosmetics, deodorant and antiperspirant, baby care, oral care, perfume and fragrance, shaving and depilatory, and foot and nail care. Its services include:
• analytical, microbiological and in vitro testing
• clinical testing and consumer panels
• physical and instrumental performance
• regulatory and consultancy services
• audits and certifications.
SGS – www.sgs.com
Compliant Spectroscopic Solutions for Regulated Pharmaceutical Industries
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FT-IR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and cost-effective compliance.
Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP
Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ
Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability
ALPHA II - Compact and Reliable FT-IR Spectroscopy
State-of-the-Art FT-IR spectrometers should be effi cient and straightforward above all else. The ALPHA II follows this approach and makes FT-IR analysis easier than ever before. The user can swiftly exchange Bruker’s versatile QuickSnap™ sampling modules to ideally fi t the device to almost any kind of sample (e.g. solids, liquids and gases).
BRAVO - Handheld Raman Spectrometer
BRAVO mitigates fluorescence (SSE™), addresses a large spectral range (Duo LASER™) including CH stretching region and is a class 1M Laser product. The intuitive and guide workflow gives the ability for Raman spectroscopy into everybody’s hands
LUMOS II - Fully Automated Stand-Alone FT-IR Microscope
LUMOS II provides best performance for visual inspection and infrared spectral analysis of micro samples with highest comfort in use.
TANGO - The Next Generation of FT-NIR Spectrometer
Faster, simpler, more secure - with TANGO your NIR analysis speeds up. TANGO has exactly what users require of an FT-NIR spectrometer suitable for industrial use: robustness, high precision and straightforward operator guidance.
Bruker South Africa (Pty) Ltd
Unit A-A001-G
Contact us for more details: www.bruker.com/optics info.za@bruker.com
Stability Testing Services explores the necessary tests to ensure a complete and compliant PIF.
The Product Information File (PIF) is a crucial document for cosmetic products whether you are planning to sell locally or in the European Union or other parts of the world. It serves as a comprehensive record of a product's safety and compliance, ensuring that the product meets the regulatory requirements of these regions.
The PIF includes several key components:
• Product description, which includes a detailed overview of the product, including its presentation, physical/chemical characteristics, and intended use.
• Safety information, including a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) prepared by a qualified safety assessor, covering details about ingredients, concentration and toxicological profiles.
• Evidence of effectiveness, consisting of supporting data for any specific product claims, particularly if there are specific
SUPPLIER
claims about benefits. These need to be substantiated with evidence such as efficacy tests etc.
• Data on animal testing, whereby information on any animal testing conducted by ingredient suppliers or the manufacturer must be detailed.
• Manufacturing information should all be included in the PIF, such as details about the manufacturing process, methods used, quality control measures, and compliance with Good Manufacturing Practices.
• Product label i.e. a copy of the labelling, ensuring it complies with relevant legislation.
PRODUCT
SAFETY AND COMPLIANCE
A number of tests are also essential to ensure a complete and compliant PIF.
Stability testing is one of the most critical steps in product development. This involves assessing a product’s physical, chemical and microbiological qualities under various storage conditions. It helps determine shelf life and ensures the product maintains its intended properties.
In terms of regulatory compliance, stability and compatibility testing are compulsory to ensure consumer safety and product efficacy. These tests provide essential data that is required for regulatory submissions. This data is also used to substantiate product label claims regarding the shelf life and usage instructions.
Stability tests can be conducted in real time or under accelerated conditions and
and use. Physical responses to temperature, light, packaging and even movement (such as vibration as would be experienced during transportation) are evaluated.
A preservative efficacy test, also known as the challenge test, evaluates a product’s ability to resist microbial contamination. It involves intentionally introducing microorganisms to assess the effectiveness of preservatives.
"
Stability testing is one of the most critical steps in product development"
Microbiological quality testing is used to determine the presence of total microbial count, total aerobic plate count, total mould and yeast count, and specific pathogens like Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Escherichia coli.
Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, is an expert in conducting these essential tests. It can assist brands and manufacturers to ensure their products meet regulatory requirements and maintain safety and quality standards for local and international markets. •
Discover the power of partnership with Hersol Manufacturing Labs!
At Hersol, we put people first. Our commitment to our clients goes beyond mere production – we’re dedicated to transforming your vision into reality. With our unparalleled expertise in formulation development, meticulous raw material sourcing, and cutting-edge pilot scale production capabilities, Hersol empowers you to bring your innovative concepts to life.
Why choose Hersol as your contract manufacturer? Because we understand the importance of trust and reliability in every step of the journey. From concept to creation, we ensure that every aspect of product development and production is handled with precision and care.
44 Years of excellence
With our unmatched expertise, cutting-edge facilities, unwavering commitment to quality and dedication to customer satisfaction, choose us as your contract manufacturer, unlock endless possibilities for innovation and growth in the complementary medicines industry and experience the diff erence first-hand.
ACCREDITED BODIES:
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is registered with reputable organizations:
• Sahpra Manufacturing licence
• South African Health Products Regulatory Authority
• South African Department of Health
• South African Pharmacy Council
• Health Product Association (HPA)
• Self-Care Association of South Africa
Laurence Solomons CEO Laurence@Hersol.co.za
• FDA Food Facility
• S.A.N.H.A (South African National Halaal Authority), NIHT (National Independent Halaal Trust) to offer Halaal certified products.
• Montreal Kosher Authorities (Global Kosher Certification) to offer Kosher certified products.
Barry Solomons Marketing Director Barry@Hersol.co.za
Kevin Van Wyngaardt Managing Director kevin@hersol.co.za
Riaan Herselman Operations Director Riaan@Hersol.co.za
Tumelo Langa Production Manager Prodman@hersol.co.za
Plastics SA has released its latest survey results on polymer consumption and recycling figures for the year ending 2023. This year’s report shows significant strides in the recycling sector, whilst highlighting the importance of continued investment in infrastructure and education.
The annual survey, conducted through personal interviews and survey completion, reported that 295 recycling operations were recorded in South Africa at the end of 2023. Of these, 40% processed post-consumer materials by granulating, washing and pelletising the materials. However, only a portion of these recyclers can successfully process landfillsourced material due to the high capital investment required for proper wash plants, feasible only for larger operations.
Notably, 6.2% of the 273 recycling operations from 2022 ceased operation, while 39 new companies were recorded, indicating both challenges and opportunities within the sector.
“Strengthening competition within the South African plastics industry can have a profound impact on the recovery of the broader manufacturing sector. Plastics are integral to supply chains across healthcare, energy, aerospace, automotive, maritime, construction, electronics, and packaging. This multi-sector dependency makes the plastics industry’s contributions vital. In 2023, the sector accounted for 1.8 % of South Africa’s GDP and 15.8% of
manufacturing GDP, highlighting its critical role,” says Anton Hanekom, executive director of Plastics SA.
Although South Africa’s plastics industry is relatively small on a global scale representing less than 0.4% of production worldwide, it remains the largest in SubSaharan Africa. In 2023, 1 568kt of virgin polymer were used in the production of plastics across a variety of industries. The packaging sector dominated consumption at 48.2%, followed by building and construction (12.5%), agriculture (9.4%), electronics (6.4%), and the automotive industry (6.3%).
CHALLENGES AMID RECYCLING GROWTH
Recycling continues to be a dynamic area within the plastics industry. An impressive 431 800t of plastics were recycled in 2023, up from 368 800t in 2022. This resulted in an input recycling or collection rate of 52%, which is a significant increase in the 42.9% collection of the previous year. The output recycling rate also rose, reaching 27.5% from 22.9% in 2022. These figures position South Africa as a leader in mechanical plastics recycling, outperforming
many developed nations in the mechanical recycling of thin polyethylene films and contaminated post-consumer plastics.
"431 800t of plastics were recycled in 2023, up from 368 800t in 2022"
Despite these successes, there are still significant quantities of recyclable plastic waste ending up in landfills. Increasing both the quantity and quality of recycled plastics is crucial to driving the circularity of the plastics industry.
SUSTAINING INCOME GENERATION
The recycling sector remains a critical source of employment, particularly within the informal economy. In 2023, an estimated 95 900 income generating opportunities were sustained, including waste pickers and smaller entrepreneurial collectors. The industry contributed over R4.7 billion to the supply chain, including the informal sector, for collecting 671 200 tons for recycling.
Figure 1: Virgin consumption by application
GLOBAL POLICY CONCERNS
As the world prepares for the INC-5 meeting in Busan, South Korea, Plastics SA has expressed concerns over global moves to regulate Chemicals of Concern (CoC) through a standardised list.
"The latest data highlights a thriving plastics recycling sector"
Hanekom emphasised that while the industry supports efforts to curb plastic pollution, it opposes blanket regulations and lists of CoCs, advocating for a more flexible, risk-based approach that considers local socio-economic conditions.
He warned that such lists could have a detrimental effect on South Africa’s economy and its burgeoning plastics recycling industry.
COMMITMENT TO A CIRCULAR ECONOMY
Plastics SA reaffirmed its commitment to supporting a circular economy, urging the design of products with recyclability in mind and the development of collection and recycling systems that allow for the highest quality recyclate. The organisation is also pushing for international treaties that promote sustainable product design and public-private partnerships to boost waste management and recycling efforts.
"South Africa's plastics industry continues to be a vital contributor to the Sub-Saharan economy, playing a significant role in the country’s sustainable development and the
global fight against plastic pollution. The latest data highlights a thriving plastics recycling sector, with rising recycling rates and decreasing reliance on fossil fuels. This progress reflects growing awareness and support for recycling, driven in part by the efforts of Producer Responsibility Organisations (PROs).
These positive trends are encouraging as we approach the INC-5 negotiations later this year. We applaud our raw material producers, converters, recyclers, product designers, brand owners, and consumers who are collectively advancing South Africa’s recycling industry and achieving these notable milestones. Although there is still ample potential for further growth, we celebrate the active participation of all stakeholders in building a robust, sustainable recycling industry,” Hanekom concludes. •
Did you know?
Suitable end-markets are critical for the sustainability of the plastics recycling industry. Recyclate finds markets in almost all local market sectors. Only 3.7% of South Africa’s recyclate was exported as a raw material to plastics converters in Asia and the SADC region. Rigid and flexible packaging used 33.7% of all locally produced recyclate.
Figure 2: Recyclate markets
Tonnages of the various materials that are recycled
SAAFFI takes sensory storytelling to the Mother City
For the first time, SAAFFI hosted its annual seminar in the Western Cape on 11 September. This gathering of around 90 flavour, fragrance, FMCG and sensory professionals at Stellenbosch University created a forum for important, industry related discussions.
Our entire interaction with the world around us – whether it be personal, professional, physical, spiritual, intellectual or emotional – is through our five senses. Our reactions to these stimuli define who we are, what we stand for and what we can achieve.
Reframed, the five senses are not only of importance to the flavour, fragrance, sensory and consumer science professions, but are also the means with which we all respond to every aspect of our environment.
The 2024 Western Cape SAAFFI Seminar included a full-day programme with sessions based on the theme ‘Unlocking the sensational world of flavours and fragrances – sensory storytelling for the Mother City’. The seminar featured an impressive line-up of speakers, a hands-on workshop, and an inspiring motivational presentation.
INTERESTING PRESENTATIONS AND FUN WORKSHOP
International and local speakers addressed topics, including:
• Fragrance trends
• Flavour trends
• Buchu and its importance to the flavour and fragrance industry
• The people in the booth – trained sensory panels and their significance
• The fantasy of fish and flavours
• Changing times? The important role of flavour in product development
• The UCT Cosmetic Formulating Course and significance in the South African fragrance and cosmetic industry
• Fynbos and fragrance.
The SAAFFI Seminar is well known for its intera, hands-on workshop, which invites participants to explore the world of flavour and fragrance construction, and the raw materials involved. During the Western Cape seminar, carefully constructed teams worked together to answer a variety of questions relating to samples on display. The session left delegates informed, energised, motivated, challenged and entertained. Generous prizes were awarded after the workshop and there were numerous networking opportunities with exactly the right crowd.
A PLATFORM YOU EXPAND YOUR NETWORK
For the last 24 years, the annual SAAFFI seminar in Gauteng and now in the Western Cape have attracted key personnel from a wide range of companies operating in the flavour
and fragrance sector, FMCG companies, as well as academics, consultants, regulators, raw material suppliers and anyone interested in the fascinating world of fragrance and flavours.
Valuable learning and networking opportunities exist for people in management, sales, marketing, technical, procurement, R&D, applications, operations, and tertiary level students.
SAAFFI’s executive director, Sharon Bolel summed up the event: “The amazing event combined a programme with world-class speakers, an interactive workshop and brilliant opportunities for expanding one’s network.
SAAFFI’s key goals of offering relevant training, disseminating regulatory information and building a community of industry relevant professionals were achieved. We are so grateful for the support from industry and attendance of the delegates.”
SAAFFI, the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry, represents all aspects of the flavour, fragrance and allied industries. It unites the industry across non-competitive issues, freeing up individual organisations to grow their business.•
