4 minute read
Protectors of stressed and sensitive skin
Skin sensitivity and its symptoms, such as redness, itching, stinging and burning sensations, have become a primary skin care concern among consumers globally. On Instagram, there are over 1.2m posts with the hashtag #sensitiveskin. On TikTok, the same hashtag has 210.1m views. In this article, we explore CareActives from Provital Group developed specifically for formulations in the sensitive skin category.
Sensitive skin is not a trend, but rather a skin condition that has always existed – it’s just become more prevalent in recent years with the growing demand for new, targeted solutions that meet the needs of sensitive and reactive skin.
Provital is a company based in Barcelona, Spain, which offers range of ingredients for various applications. The company is represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals.
Improve sensitive skin with Caresoft
Sensitive skin is delicate, vulnerable and prone to atopy.1 Because of its higher-than-normal pH, when exposed to irritating products, solar radiation or mechanical stress, sensitive skin recovers slower than skin with an acidic pH.2
Building on Behne and Choi’s scientific evidence on the role of the membrane protein NHE1, in regulating intracellular pH,3 Provital created Caresoft with the goal to improve sensitive skin. Caresoft is a purified fraction of the roots of Curculigo orchioides which is rich in total sugars and curculigosides. Curculigo roots have a long history of use in traditional Chinese medicine for treating itchy and diseased skin as well as cuts and wounds.4
According to Provital, Caresoft acts on the internal control mechanism of skin’s pH by regulating the NHE1 protein. This helps to speed up the barrier repair process and reduces skin’s reactivity and sensitivity.
The efficacy of the active ingredient has been determined in an extensive in vitro study on human keratinocytes, followed by a clinical (in vivo) study where several parameters were tested, revealing the following results:
• a 65% reduction in the incidence of sensitive skin and skin reactivity
• a 25% decline in skin’s reaction time to an irritant substance in volunteers who remained positive at the end of the study
• skin surface pH decreased by 0.04 pH units
• a 13% improvement in epidermal barrier protection against external factors
• 20% faster barrier recovery.
Caresoft is ideal for formulations designed specifically for sensitive skin, such as baby care, genital hygiene, makeup and men’s and women’s skin products as it acts from within to reduce external damage.
Alleviate mechanical stress effects with Dermasooth Our skin protects us from exposure to chemical and physical agents, such as solar radiation, pollution, fabrics and detergents. It also protects us from exposure to mechanical stress, which can be voluntary, such as shaving and epilation, or involuntary, like chafing.
According to the International Dermal Institute, around 79% of men who shave experience some sort of skin concern after shaving. They also believe that post-shaving cosmetic products designed to soothe sensitisation and inflammation caused by repeated shaving, are not suitable for their intended purpose.
According to a survey of more than 2 000 women by the British Association of Beauty Therapists and Cosmetology, women shave their underarms on average three times a week and their legs twice a month. Only 1% of the women surveyed claimed to never shave their underarms. These statistics reveal there is also huge potential in the market for post-shave soothing products for women.
It is for this reason that Provital created a specific active ingredient to reduce the negative effect of shaving, soothing skin by reducing inflammation and irritation while strengthening the skin’s protective barrier. Dermasooth, a natural complex containing tulsi, lady’s thistle and Enteromorpha compressa active fractions, alleviates the processes that cause skin irritation.
Catering to mechanically stressed skin
With shaving or any other form of mechanical stress, skin cells activate phospholipase A2, a key enzyme in inflammatory processes, which initiates the synthesis of prostaglandins and leukotrienes through cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase. Moreover, cytokine, histamine and serotonin levels increase.
As a result of these cellular responses, vascular permeability and blood flow are increased, allowing leukocyte migration to the inflammation site which defends the body from foreign substances or infectious agents.5 If inflammation is reduced, the negative cycle will not be initiated, facilitating skin recovery. Due to its ursolic acid and silymarin content, Dermasooth participates in anti-inflammation mechanisms inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis and histamine release, in addition to functioning as a cell membrane protector, which prevents interaction with agents that cause irritation. Its efficacy in these areas has been established in in vitro and in vivo studies.
In vivo study results showed Dermasooth produces an anti-irritant effect, reducing basal inflammation. It also reduces the intensity of the immediate irritation caused by shaving. A positive effect in this regard was visible by day seven of treatment with a 6.7% difference between the active ingredient and placebo and after 14 days of treatment, a 7.8% difference was visible. Lastly, Dermasooth accelerates skin recovery after the aggression of shaving or epilation. •
