4 minute read
Food for your face!
While the pandemic has given us a different perspective on face masks, it has also emphasised their value as beauty products. This is particularly evident in the growing focus on self-care, which is fuelling demands for new forms of facial care.
From pudding to avocado and chocolate to jam, designing formulations for face masks widens the opportunity to explore creative textures and different sensory aspects. As a departure from traditional sheet masks, convenient wash-off and peel-off formats are enhanced with the Covacryl range of water thickeners from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies (Sensient). The thickeners can be used to mimic various food textures, such as a honey-like texture with long-play time, a rich effect for a creamy texture and even a stringy or quick-break effect is possible to impart an aloe vera-like texture.
Sensient’s avocado face mask (SCT6326 SCF) has a creamy appearance thanks to Serica 100, which also helps to facilitate a uniform application on skin. As a technology product, the Covalumine range offers bright and natural shades.
Thanks to their AS surface treatment, these pigments are easily dispersed in the oil phase. Lastly, Covacryl MV60 is included in the mask to add a velvet touch.
The bouncy yogurt-like texture of the pudding mask (SCT6327 SCF), also referred to as a ringing texture, is obtained by blending Covacryl MV60 in the formula.
In water-based formulations, this special polymer provides a silicone-elastomer like effect with a velvet touch. Skin is left feeling fresh and non-tacky feel.
A concentration of 0.3% Covacryl SP forms a high viscosity transparent aqueous gel with a conditioning texture. The blueberry jam colour is matched using Unicert dyes which are globally compliant. Natpure Xtra Eternity is added to the formulation to improve skin’s barrier function and maintain adequate hydration.
The green tea mud mask (SCT6331 SCF) effectively detoxes and nourishes skin, leaving it feeling is soft and smooth. Its earthy green shade is obtained from a combination of Unipure LC788 and Covarine Charcoal P-WN 9794. Natpure Xtra Longevity is added to stimulate the defence mechanisms and protect against oxidative stress to help maintain a youthful-looking appearance. Thanks to the relatively high concentrations of several active compounds the barrier is strengthen through increased resilience and cell cohesion. Fucosorb WP is added to the mask for an extra soothing effect.
CHOCOLATE, CLAY AND WATERLESS MASKS
Easy to spread and super creamy, Sensient’s chocolate on your face mask (SCT6329 SCF) looks good enough to eat. This formulation is based on Natpure Xtra Eternity, which is sourced from cocoa and contains a high concentration of theobromine and caffeine to address signs of ageing. The mask’s rich chocolate brown colour is obtained using a Covarine dispersion. Sensibead Si 175 is added to improve spreadability as well as Hydrofacteur HC, which acts as a natural substitute for natural moisturising factors.
INGREDIENTS TO ADD COLOUR AND TEXTURE
Colour is just as important as texture, especially in playful formulations that are food-inspired. For transparent formulas, Sensient recommends Natpure Col natural dyes sourced from vegetables. Available in an extensive range of water- and oilsoluble colours, a Covabsorb UV filter can be added to a formula to improve the colour stability of Sensient’s natural dyes. Focused on plant extraction, the Natpure Xfine range includes pure vegetable extracts of beetroot, sweet potato, radish, carrot, spirulina and turmeric. These extracts also function as actives and provide colouring power. Natpure Xtra botanical actives are obtained using Sensient’s water-based proprietary PhytoClean process for a pure, gentle, repeatable extraction of a targeted biomass in a pressure and temperature-controlled water. All proven to be potent active ingredients, Natpure Xtra Eternity is a cocoa extract, Natpure Xtra Vitality a rosemary extract, Natpure Xtra Integrity a guayusa leaf extract and Natpure Xtra Longevity is the green tea extract.
Did you know?
Prior to the coronavirus pandemic, face masks were primarily known worldwide as beauty products. The application went mainstream on the coattails of K-Pop, as consumers sought to achieve the pure, supple complexion of their Korean heartthrob music stars.
While clay and mud face masks continue to be popular, though they could do with some innovation to deliver new experiences. Consider infusing them with charcoal or any of the natural actives in Sensient’s Natpure Xtra range or you could design a waterless clay face mask.
Anhydrous or waterless formulations were introduced by the cosmetics industry as a means to conserve water. Concerned about water shortages, consumers have become hooked on the novelty of solid shampoo and conditioner bars e.g., and their improved ecofriendly credentials.
Vegetable charcoal and Oxyde De Zinc Micropur can be added to a waterless face mask for their purifying benefits while the porous silica powder Sensibead SI175 will help to absorb oil and excess sebum. For a shiny pitchblack facial mask, Covarine Charcoal P-WN 9794 should be added to the formulation to give it a unique look. This ingredient also deep cleans skin removing impurities and unclogging the pores. To strengthen the barrier and increased skin’s resilience, Natpure Xtra Vitality promotes cell cohesion while protecting skin from external factors such as pollution. •
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
