Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2021

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SKIN & FACE CARE

Food for your face!

While the pandemic has given us a different perspective on face masks, it has also emphasised their value as beauty products. This is particularly evident in the growing focus on self-care, which is fuelling demands for new forms of facial care.

F

rom pudding to avocado and chocolate to jam, designing formulations for face masks widens the opportunity to explore creative textures and different sensory aspects. As a departure from traditional sheet masks, convenient wash-off and peel-off formats are enhanced with the Covacryl range of water thickeners from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies (Sensient). The thickeners can be used to mimic various food textures, such as a honey-like texture with long-play time, a rich effect for a creamy texture and even a stringy or quick-break effect is possible to impart an aloe vera-like texture. Sensient’s avocado face mask (SCT6326 SCF) has a creamy appearance thanks to Serica 100, which also helps to facilitate a uniform application on skin. As a technology product, the Covalumine range offers bright and natural shades. Thanks to their AS surface treatment, these pigments are easily dispersed in the oil phase. Lastly, Covacryl MV60 is included in the mask to add a velvet touch. The bouncy yogurt-like texture of the pudding mask (SCT6327 SCF), also referred to as a ringing texture, is obtained by blending Covacryl MV60 in the formula. In water-based formulations, this special polymer provides a silicone-elastomer like effect with a velvet touch. Skin is left feeling fresh and non-tacky feel. A concentration of 0.3% Covacryl SP forms a high viscosity transparent aqueous gel with a conditioning texture. The

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"Sensient’s avocado face mask has a creamy appearance Serica 100" blueberry jam colour is matched using Unicert dyes which are globally compliant. Natpure Xtra Eternity is added to the formulation to improve skin’s barrier function and maintain adequate hydration. The green tea mud mask (SCT6331 SCF) effectively detoxes and nourishes skin, leaving it feeling is soft and smooth. Its earthy green shade is obtained from a combination of Unipure LC788 and Covarine Charcoal P-WN 9794. Natpure Xtra Longevity is added to stimulate the defence mechanisms and protect against oxidative stress to help maintain a youthful-looking appearance. Thanks to the relatively high concentrations of several active compounds the barrier is strengthen through increased resilience and cell cohesion. Fucosorb WP is added to the mask for an extra soothing effect.

CHOCOLATE, CLAY AND WATERLESS MASKS Easy to spread and super creamy, Sensient’s chocolate on your face mask (SCT6329 SCF) looks good enough to eat. This formulation is based on Natpure Xtra Eternity, which is sourced from cocoa and contains a high concentration of theobromine and caffeine to address signs of ageing. The mask’s rich chocolate brown colour is obtained using a Covarine dispersion. Sensibead Si 175 is added to improve spreadability as well as Hydrofacteur HC, which acts as a natural substitute for natural moisturising factors.


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