Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2021

October 2021

Volume 48 | Number 10

48

years www.pharmacos.co.za

Consciously crafted beauty solutions

to protect people and planet

PERSONAL CARE

Natural formulas & fresh ideas for face masks

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Highlights from the judging day

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS New concepts to drive demand for actives

MenaQ7® K2 – Creating synergies for stronger health While Vitamin D is needed in the creation of vitamin K dependent proteins (VKDP) and supports calcium absorption, Vitamin K2 is critical in forming a solid bone matrix and a healthy cardiovascular system via the activation of the VKDP proteins Osteocalcin and Matrix Gla, respectively.

The combination of MenaQ7® Vitamin K2 and D3 is clinically proven to have greater cardiovascular benefits compared to vitamin D3 alone, confirming their synergistic effect on cardiovascular health.

Another clinical study in children shows combining MenaQ7® Vitamin K2 and D3 has beneficial effect on children’s bone health.

Contact: Kreason Gopalan Business Manager - Pharma Mobile: +27(0) 82 499 1331 Email: Kreason.Gopalan@Brenntag.co.za BRENNTAG South Africa (Pty) Ltd Head Office 247 15th Road Randjespark.

Midrand, 1685 Phone: +27 (0)10 020 91 00 Email: info@brenntag.co.za www.brenntag.com/en-za/

OCTOBER 2021

Contents

Volume 48 | Number 10 www.pharmacos.co.za

38 47 Association News AMA golf day highlights Coschem virtual conference review

45

20 6 News

12 Personal Care

32 Pharma Focus

I Holland celebrates 75 years of excellence

ProRenew Complex CLR helps scalp recover from stress

Clinical validations of MenaQ7 vitamin K2 explained

Marchesini to take part in CPhI Worldwide

Antioxidants to delay oxidation in natural formulas

Dis-Chem to expand HIV programme via pharmacies

Kerfoot champions zerowaste production with plum kernel oil

Reducing the global warming potential of HFC refrigerants

10 New Product Competition Highlights from the judging day

12

38 Skin & Face Care

New silicone co-emulsion from Wacker Future Cosmetics celebrates its 20th anniversary

Face mask innovations from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

Botanica explores plant extracts in cosmetics

New ingredients to care for stressed and sensitive skin Remodel skin from within with Gatuline In-Tense MB

24 Speciality Ingredients

44 Packaging

The power of the cornflower to harmonise skin

The power of RFID to transform pharma supply chains

Multifunctional and sustainable ingredients from AECI Mane Kancor opens new eco-friendly innovation centre

On the cover

CLR Berlin adopts a holistic view to meeting consumers’ evolving scalp care needs in rinse-off formulations

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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FROM THE EDITOR

Counting down to the New Product Competition awards

T

he 13 th edition of the P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition has been a long time coming.

In 2020, we decided to postpone the competition due to COVID-19. At the time, the industry was navigating the challenges of the hard lockdown while working tirelessly to produce hand sanitiser to meet South Africa’s hygiene and disinfection needs. Delaying the competition for a year turned out to be the best solution for everyone as it gave us time to re-

day in my article featured on page 10 in this edition of P&C Review.

In the section on personal care, we explore a variety of topics from hair care to natural formulations. CLR Berlin discusses how to meet consumers’ evolving scalp care needs in rinse-off formulations; BTSA showcases a full range of antioxidants based on tocopherols which protect fats and oils in natural formulations from oxidation; and Future Cosmetics – a well-known boutique clinical research organisation – celebrates its 20 th

strategise the programme and it prevented the lockdown regulations from having a negative effect on the ability of brands to enter, the high-level judging process and ultimately, the success of the competition.

Working in conjunction with our sponsor Symrise, P&C Review introduced the revamped New Product Competition to readers in June last year. The biggest change saw the introduction of four categories – mass, masstige, prestige and privé label – which has ensured that the competition is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. We also extended the deadline for entries to 1 June 2021 and received a whopping 36 submissions by the closing date. We eventually managed to host the judging day at the end of September after having to put our plans on hold in August due to the third wave.

I’m sure you’re all as eager as I am to find out the results of the judging. These will be revealed in a couple of weeks during the virtual awards ceremony. Until then, you can catch up on the highlights of the judging

anniversary. Turn to page 12 to find out more.

We bring you two diverse themes in this month’s pharmaceutical focus (page 32). The first article unpacks the clinical validation of MenaQ7 vitamin K2’s bone health and cardiovascular benefits while the second article is a case study from Telstar on how to reduce the global warming potential of HFC refrigerants in pharma manufacturing.

While the pandemic has given us a different perspective on face masks, it has also emphasised their value as beauty products.

You can read more about this on page 38 in the section on skin and face care, where Sensient Cosmetic Technologies discusses ideas and ingredients for designing innovative formulations for face masks.

Stay safe & enjoy the read!

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is affiliated with:

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The team EDITORIAL

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NEWS

I Holland celebrates of excellence As the longest established tablet compression tooling manufacturer in the world, I Holland is celebrating its 75th anniversary. The company has reached this remarkable milestone due to their commitment to research, development and investment which has established the company as the pre-eminent supplier of punches and dies to producers of tablets across the globe.

As a true British manufacturing success story, I Holland has built a reputation as a leading name in the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries. With proven experience, research and engineering know-how, the company now provide precision tooling solutions to thousands of customers in over 100 countries around the globe.

Alex Bunting, I Holland marketing manager said: “This is a significant milestone to reach and I am so proud of what we have accomplished in the last 75 years. We have achieved this landmark through the hard work and dedication of our team members and the customer-centric culture that exists throughout the company.

“In 1946 when I Holland began, the company set the industry standards for quality, lead time, support and value. To this day we stand by these values and always endeavour to raise the bar and be an industry front-runner.

“For over seven decades we have dedicated ourselves to continually research and develop innovative solutions for effective tablet compression and provide the highest quality tooling and technical support service. By listening to our customers and demonstrating agility in supporting their developing requirements we have built up a reputation as a leader in the field.

“We remain committed to continuing to deliver excellence in tablet compression tooling and look forward to building on the foundations which have been made over the last 75 years.”

Clere For Men Active expands with anti-perspirant roll-ons With the launch of the Clere For Men Active range last year and Clere For Men having performed so well in the men’s skin care category for five years straight, there’s never been a better time for the brand to expand its product offering with a range of roll-ons.

“Not only are our consumers looking for a brand that will keep up with their daily skin care needs, while keeping them active and on the go, they’re also after the convenience of a complete grooming range,” explains Themba Ndlovu, Clere For Men Active brand manager.

“We’re proud that an already trusted brand like Clere For Men caters for the skin care needs of men, not just in terms of lotion and crème, but now roll-ons too.”

The new Clere For Men Active range of anti-perspirant roll-ons brings an exciting variety of options to consumers looking for value for money, without compromising on quality. The roll-ons are available in three all-new masculine fragrances, Fresh Cooling, Fresh Energy and Invisible Dry. All three variants provide dryness and 48-hour underarm protection, while Invisible Dry won’t leave any yellow marks or stains.

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“We know our consumers are after a roll-on that dries quickly, leaves them smelling good, makes them feel attractive plus, and very importantly, keeps up with their active lifestyle.

This is exactly what we’ve delivered with our new roll-ons,” says Ndlovu.

OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The print and check machine with integrated checkweigher BL-A418 CW has been designed to meet the track and trace needs of global pharma manufacturers

Marchesini to showcase track and trace solution at CPhI Worldwide From 9 to 11 November, one of the most eagerly awaited events in the pharmaceutical industry will be held in Milan, Italy. CPhI Worldwide, which, after almost two years of being on hold, will allow pharmaceutical companies to meet and directly discuss the challenges they face.

Marchesini Group will be exhibiting the BL-A418 CW print and check machine with an integrated checkweigher. This solution for track and trace requirements was developed by Neri, a Marchesini Group division that specialises in the production of machines for labelling and tracing cartons.

SEA Vision, the group’s partner specialising in vision systems, will also be present at the stand. While the exhibition takes place, SEA Vision will open the doors of its new Pavia plant to customers and suppliers to show them the new spaces dedicated to technological research and production, geared around the concept of sustainability.

The print and check machine with integrated checkweigher BL-A418 CW has been designed to meet the track and trace needs of pharmaceutical companies around the world. The model to be exhibited at the show can process up to 400 cartons per minute and has a load cell fully integrated into the stepper conveyance system.

The high level of flexibility of the BL-A418 CW means that all types of printing and vision systems available can be installed on it, which can be customised according to all current standards worldwide. This special feature makes the BL-A418 CW the most suitable and complete machine for tracking and serialising cartons, giving a unique identity to all the pharmaceutical products packaged.

In South Africa, Marchesini Group is represented by MGSA Projects.

NEWS

Dis-Chem to expand HIV prevention and treatment via pharmacies South African pharmacists will shortly

as pharmacy environments service many

course can prescribe HIV medication via an

be able to prescribe and dispense HIV

customers with different needs, they provide

online link to HIV clinicians who endorse

medication, including PrEP (pre-exposure

a greater level of anonymity and are less

the script, while Dis-Chem clinics can assist

prophylaxis), PEP (post-exposure

stigmatising. Anyone who has HIV symptoms

with ARV treatment via a videomed doctor’s

prophylaxis) and first line anti-retrovirals,

or who tests positive for HIV will qualify for this

consultation. Once all permits are received

without patients first having to obtain a

treatment. This initiative aligns with

from the South African Pharmacy Council

script from a doctor.

Dis-Chem’s philosophy of prioritising its primary

(SACP), the full-service offering will be

healthcare mandate and increasing its focus

available in Dis-Chem clinics and plans are to

Management of Antiretroviral Treatment)

on providing healthcare access to broader

offer this service by March 2022.

programme, the first of its kind globally,

segments of the population.

The PIMART (Pharmacist-Initiated

will improve the accessibility of HIV

Ponter says Dis-Chem has (at least) one

“We believe that this initiative will go a long way to closing the gap in the fight against HIV

treatment and prevention therapy among

pharmacist and nurse in each of its pharmacies

by expanding access to the members of the

under-reached and underserved groups

who have already completed the PIMART

hard-to-reach populations. We are looking

and communities by employing healthcare

training. Dis-Chem’s clinic department has

forward to receiving full approvals for course

service opportunities available

submitted almost 300 applications for the

accreditation from the SACP and National

in pharmacies.

permit, of which 30% has already been approved.

Department of Health, which

Dis-Chem’s executive manager, Tanya

At present, the group is relying on

Ponter, who is responsible for dispensaries

telemedicine to expedite this service –

will confirm the endorsement for our pharmacists to prescribe this vital treatment,”

across the group, says the retail pharmacy

pharmacists who have completed the PIMART

comments Ponter.

chain is in full agreement with the initiative.

“It’s long overdue that pharmacists are able to best use their clinical expertise to play a valuable role in contributing to ending the high burden of HIV in South Africa. Any endeavour that will serve to broaden the accessibility of treatment protocols to patients and which will support the

Anyone who has HIV symptoms or who tests positive for HIV will qualify for HIV-related treatment within a Dis-Chem pharmacy

fight against HIV infections and illness should be applauded by the broader medical community.”

Pharmacies allow for easier access to HIV-related treatment and care as they are open after hours and on weekends and have a broad national footprint. Furthermore,

• Core focus is dissemination of scientific information • Cosmetic Science Course • Membership • Scientific conference, seminars and training

Connecting People & Cosmetics

• Networking • Industry vacancies • Affiliated to IFSCC www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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What’s on in 2021/2022

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basan Cleanroom Forum 3 to 4 November (new dates) Monte Casino, Joburg, SA www.basan.co.za CPhI Worldwide 9 to 11 November Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy www.cphi.com/europe/en in-cosmetics Latin America 10 to 11 November (new dates) São Paulo, Brazil www.in-cosmetics.com/latin-america NYSCC Suppliers Day 10 to 12 November Virtual day: 12 Nov New York, United States nyscc.org/suppliers-day The Sun Protection Conference 25 to 26 November London, UK summit-events.com/sun-protection-conference

December Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 8 to 10 December (new dates) Bangkok, Thailand www.cosmoprof.com MakeUp in LA 9 to 10 December (new dates) LA Convention Center, USA www.makeup-in-losangeles.com

January 2022 Aerosol & Dispensing Forum 19 to 20 January Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, France www.adfpcdparis.com/en/adf

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Judging day highlights

A total of 36 entries were received for the 2020/21 P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition, making this New Product Competition the biggest one to date. All of the entries are from local brands and the number of masstige entries has grown, which is exciting to see, considering the impact COVID-19 has had on the South African cosmetics industry. By Abby Vorster

T

he judging took place on 29 September at the Society of Cosmetics Chemists (Coschem), which kindly loaned P&C Review their venue for the day.

The entries were analysed by an esteemed panel of judges, which included Percy Sibanda, L’Oréal’s scientific and regulatory affairs advisor for sub-Saharan Africa; Jill Gardiner, cosmetics legislation expert; Robyn Brown, managing member of Botanichem; Elizna Hurter, manager – chemist department at Skin Chem Laboratories; Tony de Beer, packaging industry consultant; and Samantha Fletcher, client service director at Gullan and Gullan.

All of these judges are passionate about the cosmetics industry and considered experts in their respective fields, which include cosmetics legislation and regulatory compliance, formulation design and ingredient innovation, packaging, and digital marketing and social media.

SELF-CARE FOR THE SKIN In 2020, skin care became a form of selfcare – this trend was highly evident among the majority of entries submitted for the competition. In previous years we saw great diversity among the entries, with products and ranges from various categories, including bath and body and hair care. However, this year the majority of entries were skin care products with a large number of serums.

With so many face care products and ranges entered and the vast number of washes and masks on offer – we’re seeing the local market closely following global industry trends.

The majority of these trends emanate from COVID-19, such as the heightened focus on hygiene and cleanliness, maskne and anti-acne, barrier protection and the microbiome.

Many of the formulations entered have been designed to address barrier function and skin

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

health concerns with a large focus on at-home treatments and self-care for the skin.

The judges also pointed out that the INCIs

wonder if brands will be able to sustain these packaging formats for much longer, especially considering how the market has changed as a

were generally of a much better quality than previous year’s entries and that they could see those brands who entered in 2019 utilised the competition feedback to improve their line extensions entered this year.

result of COVID-19.

LESS IS MORE SUSTAINABLE Despite the global push towards more sustainable packaging, the packaging among this year’s entries included the use of a combination of printing processes and different types of decoration formats to produce the final pack. The use of tamper evident labels has also increased which adds to number of elements used to package a product. Brand owners should consider using their cartons and carton locks more effectively, ultimately conveying the perception of “less is more” when it comes to their packaging.

Local consumers are definitely ready for more sustainable packaging options when it comes to

"Many of the formulations entered have been designed to address barrier function and skin health concerns " cosmetics and personal care products. Brands should be pushing their suppliers to reduce the use of foils while specifying recyclable board for their cartons.

While a lot of thought has gone into the use of high-end types of packaging, one has to

COMPLIANCE CHALLENGES Previously, the competition had seen improvements over the years when it comes to compliance with cosmetics legislation. However, this was sadly not the case this year.

Brands that had entered the competition for the first time appear to be in need of guidance in terms of the basic principles of cosmetics legislation. So, the judges sought to help these entrants as much as possible by providing constructive feedback.

Entrants also need to be mindful of their press release content and below the line marketing, which includes social media marketing. It is no longer acceptable to have “clean” (compliant) packaging and yet social media posts and press release content are filled with claims that may or may not be substantiated. Social media posts are now being challenged at the Advertising Regulatory Board (ARB) and brands need to be watchful of this. The ARB’s social media code is available on its website and provides a clear set of rules around social media marketing to ensure the protection of consumers and the promotion of ethical conduct by brand marketers and their representatives across all social media platforms and activities.

GROWTH IN INFLUENCER MARKETING As influencer-created beauty content continues to grow worldwide, it’s great to see so many South African brands unlocking the power of this form of marketing to get their products in more consumers’ hands.

Online conversations about ingredients, clean beauty, sustainability, fair trade and ethical

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

WHO ENTERED IN 2020/21?

Category: Mass Shower to Shower Sensitive Range | Amka Products Category: Masstige BaoCare Baobab Skincare | Eco Products Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural) | Evolabs Hold Me Baby Curly Hair Gel | IntrinsiCurly Me Innoxa Vegan Skin Care | iBloom Solutions Optiphi Elements Baby & Kids | Skin Rejuvenation Technologies Playboy Signature Collection | Amka Products Sanitizing Hand & Nail Cream | SunSkin Serein Formulas Shampoo Bars | Serein Beauty Category: Prestige Body Essentia Contouring Cream | Environ Skin Care Diamond Hyaluron Filler | The Biomedical Emporium Dr Dermal MelaBright Intensive | Dr Dermal Esse Resurrect Serum | Esse Skin Care Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution | Environ Skin Care Hair Stuff Hair Serum | CP Cosmetics Optiphi Classic Pure Exfoliating Wash | Skin Rejuvenation Technologies Optiphi Body Curve Cleanse + Shave | Skin Rejuvenation Technologies Optiphi Body Curve Post Shave Serum | Skin Rejuvenation Technologies Phyto Barrier Shield | Kalahari Lifestyle Phyto Eye Contour Mask | Kalahari Lifestyle

sourcing etc. provide an important channel for brands to tap into and to learn more about what their target market wants. This type of direct feedback is highly valuable to brands and brands are getting really good at utilising influencers to diversify how they engage with their target marekt.

A VALUABLE PLATFORM The P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition was launched 13 years ago with the aim of giving cosmetics and personal care brands an opportunity to compete with their peers for the coveted title of category winner.

Winning confirms that an entry is the most innovative in its category, placing the brands that win in a league of their own.

This year, all four winners will be supplied with print-ready artwork of the New Product Competition stamp of approval to incorporate on the packaging of their winning product/s.

Of course, while it’s remarkable to win, it must be noted that there is so much more to the New Product Competition. Previous entrants will agree, the competition is a platform that adds value to all who enter, whether they win or not, by providing each entry with a comprehensive judging report after the awards. The report includes expert advice from our judges on any issues and tips on how to resolve them.

The 2020/21 P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition awards will be hosted virtually this year on 17 November.

We look forward to seeing everyone online for the event. • Symrise – www.symrise.com

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RAD SHIELD Mineral Sunscreen | Environ Skin Care Taahirah Brightening Range | Taahirah

1: Formulation judges, Robyn Brown and Elizna Hurter

Taahirah Moisture Boost Serum | Taahirah Taahirah Night Repair | Taahirah UV Derm SPF 50 Breathable Tinted Sunscreen | SunSkin Wildflower Water-Cream | Skin Creamery

2: Marketing judge, Samantha Fletcher 3: Regulatory judge, Jill Gardiner

5

4

4: Elizna applies a product to her hand to assess the feel and aesthetics 5: Packaging judge, Tony de Beer 6: Regulatory judge, Percy Sibanda

Category: Privé Label Woolworths Cuticle Oil | Woolworths RDT Dimanzi EDP for Men | Dimanzi Skin Solutions range | Skin Solutions

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2 WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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PERSONAL CARE

Help the scalp recover

from stress with ProRenew Complex CLR

Scalp care is an important trend which consumers are embracing. In the past, influencing the scalp was only a focus for antidandruff products or the odd product designed to address hair loss. Yet this is changing. Harald van der Hoeven, director of product design and development at CLR Berlin, discusses how to meet consumers’ evolving scalp care needs in rinse-off formulations.

T

he scalp contains many hair follicles, and it has a large surface area.

Consequently, it is particularly sensitive to external sources of stress, of which there are many. Daily hygiene rituals lead to the drying out of the scalp, causing it to lose its robustness as a physical barrier. The scalp can be a breeding ground for unwanted microbes and, when people have thinning hair, it is exposed to damaging factors such as UV light and pollution.

Scalp sensitivity and scalp dryness and flakiness are common concerns, and more than ever consumers are inclined to use scalp care products. However, the average consumer is mostly interested in applying convenient Harald van der Hoeven methods to solve their scalp’s problems. Depending on hair density, the use of leave-on products on the scalp is seen as a nuisance. Consumers are interested in finding a solution to their problems which is easy to use and does not necessarily have to be applied daily. They expect their shampoo to not only clean their hair and scalp but also to impart caring properties on their hair and scalp when using it every second or third day.

The obvious fact that shampoos are rinse-off products poses an important challenge to the cosmetics industry. The mere addition of hair conditioning ingredients or an active ingredient with proven efficacy in leave-on formulations often does not suffice. Hence, it is a critical task for the cosmetics industry to provide all consumers with shampoos that are effective and, in line with consumer perception, offer beneficial properties for the scalp.

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know?

ProRenew Complex CLR has a strong affinity to the skin. This means it can offer the skin important benefits, even in rinse-off products such as shampoos and hair masks.

GIVE SKIN A HEALTHY BOOST ProRenew Complex CLR (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) is an ingredient that has shown important benefits for the skin and its microbiota in general. It improves the biological processes with which the skin ensures its most important property, its physical barrier function. In essence, ProRenew Complex CLR makes the skin healthier and more robust.

It is a well-proven fact that healthy skin has healthy skin microbiota. In elaborate in vivo studies on human volunteers this was shown convincingly. Healthy skin and healthy microbiota recover from stresses as quickly as is possible. Skin and its microbiota are constantly exposed to stress. So, it is of

Figure 1: Number of volunteers in agreement with the statement (%)

great importance for both to remain healthy and robust. ProRenew Complex CLR is able to support both the skin and its microbiota in recovering from stresses much quicker than would normally be the case.

Interestingly, ProRenew Complex CLR as a postbiotic ingredient is derived from a lysate of probiotic Lactococcus lactis. Bacteria like Lactococcus lactis are natural residents on the human body. It is of great importance that this kind of bacteria can adhere to human cells and find their niche. Without this, the bacteria would not survive. These properties are also crucial for an active

PERSONAL CARE

"90% of volunteers who used the ProRenew Complex CLR shampoo reported it reduced or eliminated itching" Figure 1: Number of volunteers in agreement with the statement (%)

ingredient such as ProRenew Complex CLR to be effective in a rinse-off formulation.

RINSE-OFF STUDY INSIGHTS In an in vivo study, a shampoo containing 3% ProRenew Complex CLR was tested against the same shampoo formulation without the active ingredient (i.e. a placebo or vehicle product), on 40 volunteers with a reportedly problematic scalp. A total of 20 volunteers tested the placebo shampoo, while the other 20 volunteers tested the shampoo with ProRenew Complex CLR. Over a period of four weeks, the volunteers washed their hair on alternate days

Figure 3: Overall improvement of the scalp condition after one week (% of volunteers in agreement)

with the sample shampoos. Protocol saw the volunteers being asked to wash their hair for

volunteers witnessing a noticeable improvement in the overall condition of their

at least two minutes during each wash cycle before rinsing their hair.

Apart from the efficacy, the study volunteers also perceived clear differences between the two shampoo formulations.

After four weeks of using the two different shampoos, 80% of the volunteers who used the product with ProRenew Complex CLR reported that their scalp felt healthier.

The percentage was only 60% for the placebo shampoo. Interestingly, 85% of the volunteers who had used the shampoo with ProRenew Complex CLR stated that their scalp felt less oily, whereas this was true for only 50% of the other group (see Figure 1).

A total of 90% of volunteers who used the ProRenew Complex CLR shampoo reported it reduced or eliminated itching, compared to 60% of those who had used the placebo. The shampoo with ProRenew Complex CLR had also noticeably reduced the flakiness of the scalp for 90% of volunteers, compared to 55% of the volunteers who had used the placebo shampoo (see Figure 2).

The study results clearly show the added benefits of ProRenew Complex CLR. These benefits were objectively observed by an expert grader and, even more importantly, perceived by the volunteers who took part in the study.

It is important for cosmetic products to lead to perceivable benefits as fast as possible. Although the results after four weeks were convincing, one significant result was obtained within one week of shampooing with the active ingredient.

I.e. three treatments with the ProRenew Complex shampoo resulted in 55% of

scalp. Just 10% of the volunteers who had used the placebo shampoo reported the same (see Figure 3).

CONCLUSION Providing consumers with effective scalp care is demanding, both from a biological and a formulation point of view. While the scalp is unique and presents unique problems, there is increased interest from consumers in personal care products that are beneficial for their scalp. For example, products that address dryness and oiliness of the scalp as well as scalp sensitivity.

When it comes to the application and use of cosmetic products, the average consumer mostly wants convenience. Therefore, it is highly important to provide consumers with an effective shampoo that not only treats the scalp but also meets their scalp care needs.

It is very interesting to see that ProRenew Complex CLR offers significant skin care benefits when applied in rinseoff formulations. It is possibly even more interesting to see that the benefits of ProRenew Complex CLR are perceivable within just one week of using a shampoo formulated with CLR Berlin’s postbiotic active ingredient.

ProRenew Complex CLR is available locally from IMCD South Africa and it is both potent and safe. As this study shows, it works highly effectively in cleansing formulations and other rise-off products which have a relatively short contact time with the skin. •

CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

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Healthy protection against oxidation The increased demand for natural cosmetics has resulted in more and more oils and fats being used as a base for formulations. These key ingredients are highly prone to oxidation due to their fatty acid composition. BTSA has developed a full range of antioxidants based on tocopherols which protect fats and oils by blocking free radicals, ultimately delaying the onset of the oxidative process.

T

he skin, in addition to being the largest organ of the human body, acts as a protective shield against external aggressions from the environment such as UV rays, atmospheric pollution or the cold.

Therefore, it is of great importance to protect it daily to promote its regeneration and to ensure the skin fulfils its function.

The base of many natural cosmetic formulations and key ingredients are oils and fats. The fatty acid composition of oils and fats makes them highly prone to oxidation and, consequently, to the loss of their benefits. As a solution and to keep the nutrients of oils and fats intact so that they can exert their correct function on the skin, the cosmetics industry adds a series of antioxidants to formulations, which in some cases are of synthetic origin.

But today’s consumers are looking for cosmetic products which provide the same benefits without the use of synthetic ingredients or additives, especially those with a questionable impact on human health.

In this sense, manufacturers of personal care products must seek new antioxidant solutions which are of natural origin and which have the same or even better antioxidant effectiveness as their synthetic counterparts. BTSA, represented locally by CJP Chemicals, offers customised natural solutions that meet the needs of each manufacturer, developing tailored products and providing technical advice.

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Test results show both antioxidants offered great results in terms of an increase in the oxidative stability of shea butter and avocado, almond, coconut and macadamia oils:

In shea butter: • Tocobiol C 250% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 350% improvement

In macadamia oil: • Tocobiol C 67% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 140% improvement

In almond oil: • Tocobiol C 55% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 70% improvement

In coconut oil: • Tocobiol C 612% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 730% improvement

OXIDATIVE STABILITY IMPROVEMENT Degradation and consequent rancidity of fats and oils is detectable from the beginning. Exposing fats and oils to high temperatures accelerates the oxidation of their compounds, estimating their behaviour in the long term through different tests such as the Rancimat.

In avocado oil: • Tocobiol C 77% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 98% improvement

"Manufacturers of personal care products must seek new antioxidant solutions which are of natural origin" BTSA carried out a study at its R&D centre in order to determine the performance of its antioxidants Tocobiol C and Tocobiol XT C when added to some of the most commonly used cosmetic ingredients. Equal doses of Tocobiol C and Tocobiol XT C (1 000ppm) were added to shea butter, avocado oil, almond oil, coconut oil and macadamia oil as part of the study.

Rancimat Hours (120 ºC)

12,00 12,00 9,74

10,00

4,00 6,00

4,00

2,00 4,00

2,14

0,00 2,00

0,00 Sample

12,00

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

SHEA BUTTER AVOCADO Rancimat Hours OIL (130 ºC) Rancimat Hours (120 ºC)

12,00 10,00

9,82

7,68 8,78

0,00

4,96

4,00 2,00

2,14

2,00 0,00 Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

10,00

12,00

3,00 10,00

AVOCADO OIL ALMOND Rancimat HoursOIL (120 ºC) Rancimat Hours (120 ºC)

AVOCADO OIL Rancimat HoursOIL (120 ºC) ALMOND Rancimat Hours (120 ºC) 8,78 2,54

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

TOCOBIOL ANTIOXIDANTS 2,54

2,79

13,62

11,69

2,00 Tocobiol C1,64is obtained from the distillation 10,00 1,50 8,00 of1,00 a single raw ingredient, whole non-GMO 6,00 0,50 4,00 2,83 It naturally contains mixed soybean oil.

2,00 0,00 Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c 0,00 tocopherols, plant Sample sterols and squalene, Sample Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c COCONUT OIL which provide its unique antioxidant and

MACADAMIA OIL ºC) Rancimat Hours (160

dispersibility properties.

Rancimat Hours (140 ºC) 16,00 13,62 12,00 14,00 It is known that squalene acts mainly 10,05as a 11,69 12,00 10,00 10,00 8,00 scavenger of peroxide radicals formed in the 6,99 8,00 6,00 6,00 4,18 autoxidation process due to the donation of 4,00 4,00 2,83 2,00 2,00 electrons from the methyl groups of squalene.

0,00 0,00 Sample Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c Sample in the regeneration Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c of Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c It also helps tocopherol.

0,00

16,00

2,83

9,82 2,79

0,00

Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

12,00

10,05

10,00

6,00

4,96 1,64

0,00 Sample Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

ALMOND OIL COCONUT Rancimat Hours OIL (120 ºC) Rancimat Hours (160 ºC) 2,54

2,79 13,62

1,64

11,69

2,83 Sample Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

COCONUT OIL Rancimat Hours (160 MACADAMIA OIL ºC) Rancimat Hours (140 ºC)

14,00 12,00 12,00 10,00 10,00 8,00 8,00

13,62

11,69 10,05 Regarding its benefits on the skin, 6,99 squalene neutralises reactive oxygen, 6,00 6,00 4,18 the skin from lipid peroxidation protecting 4,00 2,83 4,00 2,00 2,00 produced by exposure to ultraviolet light 0,00 0,00 Sample Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c or other Sample sources of light. squalene also MACADAMIA OIL plays an important role as a lubricant and Rancimat Hours (140 ºC) 12,00 as a constituent of adipose tissue, helping 10,05 10,00 to maintain its health, moisture and 8,00 6,99 1 6,00 smoothness.

In cosmetics, it is generally 4,18 4,00 used as a carrier for active lipophilic 2,00 0,00 molecules thanks to its ability Sample to +bypass the Sample Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c skin barrier.

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

MACADAMIA OIL Rancimat Hours (140 ºC)

8,00

16,00 2,50 14,00

8,00 1,00 6,00 0,50 4,00

ALMOND OIL COCONUT OIL Rancimat Hours Hours (160 (120 ºC) ºC) Rancimat

12,00

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

2,00

0,00 2,00

2,50 14,00

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

10,00 1,50

1,64 4,96

3,00 16,00

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample

4,00

2,00 12,00

Sample Sample

Sample

3,00 9,82 2,79

8,78 2,54

2,50 8,00

4,00

1,00 2,00

0,00

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6,00

1,50 4,00

0,50 0,00

13,62 11,69

2,00

10,00 3,00

2,00 6,00

6,00 4,00

1,50 4,00 1,00 2,00 0,50 0,00 0,00

12,00

8,00

2,50 8,00

8,00 6,00

2,00 6,00

14,00

9,82

4,96 2,14

12,00 9,74

10,00 8,00

0,00

16,00 9,74

6,00 8,00

6,00

2,00

7,68 8,78

8,00 10,00

7,68

8,00

10,00 12,00

6,99 4,18

Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

Tocobiol XT C is a synergistic blend of BTSA’s Tocobiol antioxidant and green tea extract.

The lipid-soluble tea polyphenols help to delay the oxidation of fatty acids due to the hydroxyl groups (-OH) present in the catechins, which are the antioxidants found at the highest proportion in the green tea.

The data obtained from the study reflects that BTSA’s natural antioxidants are proven effective in increasing the stability of all the ingredient samples: shea butter, avocado oil, almond oil, coconut oil, and macadamia oil.

Because each ingredient has a different fatty acid profile, some differences were noted in the efficacy of the antioxidants. • REFERENCE: 1. https://www.petdiatric.com/images/pdfs/squalenea-natural-antioxidant.pdf

BTSA – www.btsa.com CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za

MACADAMIA OIL Rancimat Hours (140 ºC) 12,00

10,05

10,00 8,00 6,00 4,00

6,99 4,18

2,00 0,00

Sample

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol c

Sample + 1000 ppm Tocobiol XT c

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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PERSONAL CARE

Kerfoot champions zero-waste manufacturing with plum kernel oil A leading supplier of natural and organic oils, essential oils, waxes and butters, Kerfoot Group has commented on the strategic importance of its sustainable zero-waste plum kernel oil in new product development. The group supplies oils and butters to personal care brands and manufacturers across the Middle East.

D

emonstrating the enormous growth potential, the global market for plum kernel oil is expected to reach $305m in value by 2027, up from $224m in 2020, according to intelligence firm Precision Reports. The oil stands apart from many of its contemporaries in the personal care ingredients industry because of the processes used to manufacture plum kernel oil. These processes ensure that each part of the plum is utilised and none of it goes to waste or landfill.

product formulations. Particularly favourable performance is found in pre-shampoo hair masks and conditioning treatments. Its light golden colour and preferable

Plum kernel oil is finding a strong foothold as a naturally moisturising ingredient

MEANINGFUL ECO-FRIENDLY CREDENTIALS As consumers continue to gravitate towards more sustainability-focused products, Kerfoot Group believes that plum kernel oil is an example of how the personal care industry can find additional sustainability gains along its supply chains. The group believes that this can be achieved by selecting ingredients that demonstrate meaningful eco-friendly

"We believe plum kernel oil is a prime example of where premium quality meets responsible manufacturing" credentials and which resonate with shoppers. Harnessing this has a key product advantage.

Plum kernel oil is finding a strong foothold as a naturally moisturising ingredient, seeing a surge in use across skin and hair care

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Did you know?

Kerfoot Group holds a Silver EcoVadis rating for its commitment to supporting and advancing sustainability throughout the business. The rating places the group in the top 5% of assessed companies in the markets in which it operates.

care and industrial sectors, including plantbased oils, butters and waxes. The business offers a diverse portfolio, including plantbased oils designed to match consumer demand for natural authenticity, performance and sustainability with the quality, value and provenance that matter to brands and product formulators.

EMEA REGION FAVOURS ZERO-WASTE INGREDIENTS

nutritional content have contributed to its rising popularity. The oil contains high proportions of oleic acid at up to 80%, as well as 90% unsaturated fatty acids.

UNSTOPPABLE DRIVE FOR SUSTAINABILITY Simon Corner, sales and marketing director at Kerfoot Group, comments: “We are seeing real change across the personal care industry, and the Middle East is certainly no exception.

The COVID-19 pandemic has certainly changed how consumers make purchase decisions, but it hasn’t stopped the consumer drive for sustainability. In fact, it’s more important than ever. Shoppers are once again flocking to products and brands that can offer a blend of performance and sustainability.”

Plum kernel oil is part of Kerfoot Group’s considerable offering to the food, personal

Corner concludes: “The EMEA region is home to some of the finest personal care innovations found anywhere – so why shouldn’t zero-waste ingredients be part of that conversation? The time for brands across the Middle East to make waves with their ingredient choice is now.

“As we see new product development kick back into high gear, we believe that plum kernel oil is a prime example of where premium quality meets responsible manufacturing. Including it in formulations adds another string to the marketing bow for brands, while offering consumers the guilt-free peace of mind they want with their purchases. At Kerfoot Group, we believe that zero-waste production is the future of the industry, and not simply a pipe dream for brands – it’s right here, right now.” •

Kerfoot Group – www.kerfootgroup.co.uk

PERSONAL CARE

New silicone co-emulsion with long-lasting conditioning benefits

Wacker has introduced a novel silicone co-emulsion for hair care products, named Belsil DADM 3240 E. The product has distinct conditioning properties, even when used in small amounts.

C

onsisting of two silicones, the emulsion works by forming a loose network structure around the hair, conditioning it and providing lasting protection. It is particularly beneficial in shampoo formulations and boosts the efficacy of conditioners and leave-in products.

In developing Belsil DADM 3240 E, Wacker has succeeded in converting two silicones into an aqueous emulsion. The oil phase contains an amodimethicone crosspolymer with an embedded conventional dimethicone. The crosspolymer develops a protective polymer network around the hair, providing the longlasting benefit of a conditioning silicone.

The combination of dimethicone and crosspolymer is extremely effective, rendering even rough, damaged hair soft and supple which makes it easy to comb when wet or dry. As a result of the treatment, hair regains its natural, healthy appearance.

"Conventional silicone emulsions simply cannot produce the results of Belsil DADM 3240 E" VERSATILE AND EASY TO USE Belsil DADM 3240 E is suitable for use in shampoos, conditioners and leave-in products.

In shampoo systems, the new co-emulsion is compatible with the usual surfactant systems utilised in hair care and processing is straightforward. It can be admixed without lowering the viscosity of a formulation or impairing the foaming properties of a shampoo.

The co-emulsion is highly effective, even at low concentrations. Shampoos formulated with mild, sulfate-free surfactants require just 0.8% silicone to boost hair suppleness by 35%,

Belsil DADM 3240 E consists of an amodimethicone crosspolymer (orange) and a dimethicone (yellow).

Thanks to its network structure (blue dots), the crosspolymer surrounds and protects the hair (Source: Wacker)

compared to untreated hair. That is roughly 20 percentage points better than a reference formulation based on a standard market dimethicone emulsion. Conventional silicone emulsions simply cannot produce the results of Belsil DADM 3240 E. • Wacker – www.wacker.com

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

BEAUTY MEETS SUSTAINABILITY BELSIL ® ECO

Sustainable production of beauty products now has a name: BELSIL® eco. WACKER is the first manufacturer in the world to offer valuable silicones manufactured according to methods that have been certified to conserve resources – and that use biomethanol from natural sources. This not only conserves fossil-based raw materials: the use of renewable biobased materials also sets a benchmark when it comes to sustainable production using silicone ingredients. And you benefit from environmentally friendly silicone additives of consistently high quality. So use BELSIL® eco and make your production processes responsible and environmentally sound.

More information is available at: www.wacker.com/belsileco wacker.com/socialmedia

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06.04.21 10:25

We are a focused, boutique dermatological clinical research organization for the cosmetic industry.

Our vision is to be the leading cosmetics clinical research organisation in Africa.

Over the last 20 years, we have delivered continuous, personalised customer service to customers locally and internationally.

Come with us as your cosmetics clinical partner as we take you on this journey from concept to product.

heibrie@futurecosmetics.co.za Tel: (+27) 12 811 0621 www.futurecosmetics.co.za

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Celebrating 20 years of excellence in clinical testing Future Cosmetics has played a significant role in pioneering commercial clinical testing in South Africa. Over the past two decades, the company has delivered a continuous, personalised service to its customer base, utilising world-renowed, well-published and accepted instrumental systems to ensure innovative efficacy and claim substantiation testing for cosmetics and related products. By Abby Vorster

E

stablished in 2001 by Heibrie le Roux, Future Cosmetics operates as a boutique clinical research organisation.

The company specialises in upfront consultation and protocol design in order to provide robust scientific substantiation for the applicable claims.

The company’s holistic approach to clinical studies is complemented by Heibrie’s in-depth knowledge of the cosmetics industry. Her many years of experience in SPF ring testing and her involvement in various technical committees associated with ISO have provided an indispensable body of knowledge to the South African cosmetics industry. Future Cosmetics

is considered by many as being at the forefront of developments in commercial SPF applications, providing expert advice on sunscreen product development and SPF testing methods. Heibrie has also harnessed her industry knowledge to expand into clinical testing for ethnic skin, establishing appropriate test methods that yield the best results for customers.

“At Future Cosmetics we keep abreast of global test method developments and harmonisation efforts and all our clinical testing is performed in line with international standards. We also focus on quick turnaround times to ensure our customers can meet their commitments,” she explains.

VOLUNTEERING UPLIFTS COMMUNITIES Because of the nature of Future Cosmetics’ business, it is imperative that the company operates in line with the highest ethical standards. This is made possible by automated work processes and utilising technologically advanced lab equipment. These processes also facilitate appropriate volunteer selection to ensure Future Cosmetics meets and exceeds its social entrepreneurship and upliftment commitments.

Extending beyond its social entrepreneurship approach, the company has partnered with NGOs and social development entities to uplift communities by providing volunteering opportunities.

“These NGOs are mainly concerned with abandoned and abused pregnant women, whom we provide with financial support,” says Heibrie. “We also offer them training and development opportunities, ultimately helping the women integrate themselves back into a working environment and society in general.

The compensation our volunteers and recruitment partners receive goes towards their children’s education, to beautifying themselves and their family members, providing food for their families and uplifting the general community.”

Humbled by their gratitude, Heibrie recalls receiving letters from volunteers in the past thanking Future Cosmetics for the difference the company has made in their lives.

OPERATIONAL UPGRADES AND EMPLOYEE DEVELOPMENT Even after 20 years, Future Cosmetics is still an agile business that is able to adapt in

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PERSONAL CARE

Did you know?

Since inception, Future Cosmetics has performed clinical work or evaluations on an excess of 7 400 test samples. The company has also expanded into claim substantiation of washing powder, baby diapers, feminine hygiene products and hand sanitisers. changing times. With COVID-19 further shaping the cosmetic clinical trial in its current format, Heibrie says that the layout of their premises has been ideal to implement social distancing and ensure compliance with COVID protocols.

“Adaption and innovation in relation to health and environmental factors have provided an opportunity for digitisation at Future Cosmetics. We now recruit via electronic media and platforms and have adopted electronic consent forms, all fully integrated into our planning system. With the upgrade of our accounting system, we have implemented an electronic system for expense claims of various cost elements, reducing the administrative requirements for paying volunteers.

In the foreseeable future, we will also make digitisation improvements to our key dermatological instrumentation.”

Future Cosmetics facilitates the cross-functional learning among its team of employees because internal training and employee development are important aspects of clinical studies. Some of Future Cosmetics’ team members specialise in specific testing methods, while others flex and are known for their versatility. The company also trains individuals from its recruitment partners, exposing them to various study selection criteria and other opportunities for growth and development.

“We are extremely grateful for the industry support and the long standing and loyal support of our customers over the past 20 years,” comments Heibrie, highlighting that Future Cosmetics is looking forward to new opportunities in cosmetic clinical studies coupled with its expansion in Africa and internationally. • Future Cosmetics – futurecosmetics.co.za

THE 20-YEAR JOURNEY OF FUTURE COSMETICS 2001: Future Cosmetics is founded by Heibrie

after purchasing the assets of a liquidated skin care business based in Johannesburg. Operating out of a home office with an area converted into a laboratory with temperature and humidity controls, Heibrie starts patch and SPF safety testing.

2002: The company diversifies into

manufacturing, producing liquid skin washes for pharmaceutical wholesalers.

2003: Further customer expansion sees Future

Cosmetics moving its manufacturing from a small rented warehouse to a fully-fledged factory in Silverton, Pretoria. Heibrie also starts to manufacture sunscreens in the new facility while increasing the SPF testing and consultancy areas of the business.

2006: Considerable growth makes it necessary

for Future Cosmetics to seek consolidated premises.

Heibrie purchases a 1ha piece of land in Grootfontein Country Estate in Pretoria and relocates the business there in August 2006. Over time, the premises are converted to include ample factory space and various laboratories for conducting efficacy studies.

Future Cosmetics also participates in SPF global ring studies as part of Heibrie and South Africa’s involvement in ISO TC217.

2008: The facility renovations and laboratory

layout are completed, providing for SPF laboratories, patch safety testing laboratories, a main efficacy laboratory for various clinical studies as well as waiting and acclimatisation rooms. Sufficient workspace is also made available for demarcation and wash areas, a hair testing laboratory and volunteer resting areas. The customer base grows, both locally and internationally, and the clinical trial offerings are expanded into additional efficacy studies.

2015: Heibrie is elected coordinator of the working group to establish the South African Good Clinical Practice guidelines in consultation with SABS, CTFA and various industry experts. She resigned from this working group in 2017.

2018: After travelling annually to various global

destinations to fulfil her obligations for ISO TC217, Heibrie resigns from her position as convenor of the SABS ISO TC217 Working Group 7 on Sunscreens.

While actively participating in the local cosmetics industry, presenting on sunscreens at Coschem and CTFA conferences and at working group events, she also takes time to support her eldest son during his Matric year while assisting her youngest with his forming years.

2019: Future Cosmetics invests in new equipment and infrastructure, including on-site back up electricity generation. Wi-fi is implemented throughout the premises and a new accounting and document archiving system is adopted to substantially improve customer service.

2020: The business closes for clinical studies for

six weeks as a result of the COVID-19 hard lockdown.

On reopening, Future Cosmetics starts to test hand sanitisers and from mid-May it proceeds to reopen for other clinical studies.

2021: Future Cosmetics celebrates 20 years of

service delivery to the global cosmetics industry which coincides with the launch of its new website and social media pages for the business.

"The company has partnered with NGOs and social development entities to uplift communities by providing volunteering opportunities"

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Plant extracts in the cosmetics industry

Due to the emerging market for natural and organic ingredients in cosmetic products, plant extracts have gained great popularity in the cosmetics industry. With skin care being the most important product category, plant extracts are commonly used for their functional properties. As a result, consumers are now interested in products that improve the health and beauty of the skin by providing a specific result, ranging from skin hydration to acne control and sun protection.

B

otanica Natural Products (Botanica) is a producer and supplier of natural and organic plant extracts, oils, and powders for cosmetic applications and nutritional benefits. One of its core focuses is identifying, producing and supplying indigenous plant extracts in an environmentally and socially sustainable manner. This began with the cultivation of the indigenous plant Bulbine frutescens. The plant has a long history of use in Southern African traditional medicine as an effective remedy for a number of topical skin ailments, including blemishes, cuts, wounds, stings, scars, burns, external sores, ringworm, rashes, eczema and psoriasis, among others.

Since then, Botanica has expanded its range of plant extracts to include extracts from the following plants: Ceratonia siliqua, Buddleja saligna, Greyia flanaganii, Helichrysum odoratissimum, Syzygium jambos and Leucosidea sericea.

Spekboom (Portulacaria afra)

Did you know?

Bulbine frutescens leaf juice is commonly used in formulations for its incredible soothing and moisturising properties. It protects dry and sensitive skin and helps increase skin hydration and elasticity.

In addition, this extract enables the restoration of skin barrier function by reducing sensitisation and improving moisture retention.

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Based in rural Limpopo, Botanica cultivates indigenous plant extracts and oils in a socially and environmentally sustainable manner, which are supplied worldwide for use in personal care applications

SKIN DEPIGMENTATION Ceratonia siliqua leaf extract is found to assist in the depigmentation of uneven areas of the skin. This plant extract is scientifically proven to naturally depigment the skin by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme and thereby reducing the appearance of dark skin spots.

SKIN AND SUN PROTECTION Buddleja saligna leaf extract has antioxidant properties that assist in the protection of the skin from the damaging effects of the UV rays of the sun. This extract has been shown to reduce erythema and inflammation of the skin caused by the damaging effects of the sun.

Similarly, Greyia flanaganii leaf extract assists in protecting the skin against the damaging effects of UV radiation when combined with a known sunscreen.

Helichrysum odoratissimum leaf extract and Syzygium jambos leaf extract both assist

" With South Africa being the third-most biodiverse country in the world … there is great potential to expand the range and use of plants for cosmetic applications" in boosting the sun protection factor (SPF) when combined with a known sunscreen.

Moreover, Helichrysum odoratissimum leaf extract also has antioxidant properties that have the ability to scavenge free radicals which cause erythema.

ANTI-ACNE Leucosidea sericea leaf extract has been found to assist with the active control of acne of the

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The indigenous plant Bulbine frutescens

skin, especially comedones, papules, pustules and blackheads.

All the necessary clinical trials and laboratory tests on the aforementioned plant extracts were conducted by the University of Pretoria and are available on request.

SUSTAINABILITY AND SOCIAL DEVELOPMENT With South Africa being the thirdmost biodiverse country in the world in terms of species diversity and endemism, there is great potential to

expand the range and use of plants for cosmetic applications.

In order to ensure the sustainability and equity of all commercial plant extracts, Botanica is compliant with the laws and policies put in place by the Nagoya Protocol and the respective regulations on Access and Benefit Sharing. To this end, Botanica employs staff from the local community in rural Limpopo and provides various social development initiatives to the community.

Botanica also actively promotes the sustainable use of biodiversity with the aim of achieving a net-zero carbon footprint. This policy has been implemented by planting more than 200 000 spekboom (Portulacaria afra) plants to offset its carbon emissions and to reduce local soil erosion. Spekboom is an indigenous South African species that captures carbon dioxide and converts it to oxygen 24 hours a day. • Botanica Natural Products – www.botanica.africa

BotanicaTIMOLA® INCI: Bulbine frutescens leaf juice Bulbine frutescens is a well-known South African plant with a long history of traditional use for various topical skin conditions. Botanica Natural Products developed BotanicaTIMOLA® as an active ingredient due to its extraordinary soothing and moisturising benefits for the skin. The aqueous extract is cold pressed from certified organic leaves grown in rural Limpopo. This unique active can be added to formulations at 3% and is effective in formulations with a wide pH range. Clinical trials are currently underway.

Visit our website or contact us for more information on our full range of plant extracts.

E: info@botanica.africa W: https://botanica.africa T: +27 71 925 5870

BotanicaLITE® INCI: Ceratonia siliqua leaf extract BotanicaLITE® offers a safe and effective solution for cosmetic formulations focused on depigmentation and promoting even skin tone. This extract was developed by the University of Pretoria’s Phytomedicine Department and has been clinically proven to promote even skin tone within 28 days at a recommended use of 3%. It also reduces the darkness of skin spots due to age or exposure to the sun.

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SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

The power of the cornflower to harmonise skin Our skin reflects our well-being, not only mirroring external issues but also internal concerns. This is especially true for anyone with sensitive or problematic skin – environmental stressors as well as inner turmoil will have a direct impact on their appearance. Karen Maier of Merck South Africa explores the benefits of RonaCare Balmance as the ultimate feel-good ingredient for sensitive and stressed skin.

A

round 40% of the population reports having sensitive skin, with 9% claiming to have very sensitive skin. While the actual phenomenon is not fully understood, it is clear that sensitive skin triggers unpleasant sensations in response to certain stimuli. For example, skin can become dry, flaky, itchy or inflamed in response to chemical, physical, hormonal or psychological factors.

RonaCare Balmance is a skin comfort stabiliser for sensitive and problematic skin.

It can restore skin harmony by reducing the susceptibility to redness, roughness and itching while suppressing skin irritation by impacting the inflammatory process.

RonaCare Balmance is a natural extract of the Centaurea cyanus flower, more commonly known as the cornflower. It is

Table 1: RonaCare Balmance in vitro and ex vivo study results

24

Target

Test description

Results

Suppression of skin irritation

In vitro (acute inflammation) enzymatic and cellular investigation

Inhibition of inflammation mediators COX-2 and LOX-5

Suppression of skin irritation

Ex vivo (acute Inflammation model) TNF-α induced inflammation on human umbilical vein endothelial cells; migration measurement of isolate human monocytes

Partial blocking of the adhesion and transmigration step of monocytes to the endothelial cells

Reducing the risk of chronic skin inflammation

In vitro (chronic inflammation) induction of inflammation with the chemokines CCL17 and CCL22; measurement of protein expression

Reduction of the expression of inflammation markers CCL5, MMP-2, IL-18 and CCL26, and a reduction of chronic Th2 inflammation

General skin defence

In vitro (antioxidant potential) DPPH assay

Dose dependent inhibition of DPPH radicals

OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

sourced through a complex multi-step extraction process that includes supercritical CO2 extraction. The key bio-active ingredient is N-Feruloyl-serotonin. Several studies have shown that feruloyl-serotonin possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and serotonin-like properties.

OUTSTANDING SOOTHING BENEFITS Cornflowers have long been used in traditional medicine for their healing, antiseptic and comforting effects. The name Centaurea cyanus is derived from Greek mythology where the centaur Chiron used cornflower plants to heal Achilles after he was wounded by a poisoned arrow.

RonaCare Balmance is produced in a sustainable, clean and safe process using modern technology, which allows Merck to make the most out of the bounty offered by cornflowers. Due to the high-tech extraction method, the active ingredient is obtained in defined and verifiable quantities ensuring biological efficiency.

Comprehensive efficacy studies, both in vivo and in vitro, have proven the outstanding

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

skin soothing benefits of RonaCare Balmance.

The mode of action is the suppression of skin irritation in sensitive and stressed skin, thereby minimising the risk of chronic imbalance in problematic skin. Furthermore, RonaCare Balmance has proven antioxidant properties, which add to the skin’s defence arsenal. It reduces the sensations of itching and skin roughness, calms skin by soothing redness and balances the skin’s defence mechanism by reducing its susceptibility to over-reaction.

The active ingredient from Merck works by soothing the skin and minimising the risk of inflammatory overreaction, as proven in several studies that are detailed in Table 1. These studies have shown that RonaCare Balmance’s performance is based on its strong impact on two complementary pathways of skin soothing

"In 2020 Merck was recognised with a BSB Innovation Award for RonaCare Balmance in the category Raw Materials"

Table 2: RonaCare Balmance in vivo study results

Target

Test description

Results

Treatment approach on stressed skin

Wash stress on very sensitive and dry skin for two weeks. Treatment with 1% RonaCare Balmance during the second week

Volunteers observed: • 14% reduction in skin redness • 15% reduction in roughness • 14% reduction in dryness • 14% reduction in itchiness • significant improvements after only one week of treatment

Preventative approach against stress – part one

Treatment with RonaCare Balmance on very sensitive and dry skin for two weeks; wash stress during second week

After one week (without wash stress), hypersensitive skin showed significant improvements with a smoothing sensation After wash stress volunteers observed 89% prevention in the formation of erythema; 130% reduction of the sensation of skin sensitivity and 82% prevention of an itching reaction

Preventative approach – part two

Suction blister cell fluid sampling after second week followed by an in vitro investigation on selected biomarkers

Significant reduction of IFN-α and IL-6, which are both biomarkers associated with itching and a clear reduction of the biomarker associated with immune response (MCP-1)

– namely the suppression of skin irritation in sensitive and stressed skin and by minimising the risk of chronic imbalance in problematic skin.

AN AWARD-WINNING ACTIVE INGREDIENT In vivo studies were also carried out using RonaCare Balmance in a formulation to

determine whether people actually experience the comfort and relief claimed by the active ingredient. These results are detailed in Table 2.

Again the studies proved that hyper-sensitive skin is highly reactive to surfactant stress. A placebo formulation with no active ingredients already has a positive influence on skin redness, dryness, skin sensitivity and rough sensation.

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SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

However, the skin benefits are much higher in the presence of RonaCare Balmance.

Furthermore, these skin benefits correlated well with the positive effect of the active ingredient on markers involved in inflammation and itching, observed at the biological level.

RonaCare Balmance is the feel-good factor for sensitive and stressed skin, imparting skin comfort by calming and balancing skin’s oversusceptibility to over-reacting. The ingredient is so effective that in 2020 Merck was recognised with a BSB Innovation Award for RonaCare Balmance in the category Raw Materials.

RonaCare Balmance can be used both in face and body care products targeting sensitive and very sensitive skin. It is also a perfect match for dermocosmetic products, eye care treatments and soothing after sun applications. It comes with COSMOS approval and Halal and vegan

"RonaCare Balmance has taken the restorative power of the cornflower and elevated it to an elegant cosmetic ingredient"

+27% Skin firmness

Phase

Ingredients

INCI EU

A

Polyaldo 10-1-0

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

3.00

Lanol 37 T

Triheptanoin

1.00

Dub Aprilose +

Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-4 Esters

3.00

Pelemol Dism

Diisostearyl Malate

2.00

Avicel PC 611

Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum

1.00

Rhodicare XC

Xanthan Gum

0.20

Water, demineralised

Aqua

RonaCare Potassium Sorbate (1.32144)

Potassium Sorbate

0.60 1.00

B

C

OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ad 100

RonaCare Benzyl Alcohol (1.30153)

Benzyl Alcohol

Citric Acid (1.37002)

Citric Acid

E

RonaCare Balmance (1.32376)

Maltodextrin, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

3.00

Zemea Propanediol

Propanediol

5.00

q.s.

Formulation guide

certifications, and it can be used in all kinds of formats be it an emulsion, serum, gel, or even powdery products.

RonaCare Balmance has taken the restorative power of the cornflower and

Super food

results

99.8%

(%)

D

Immediate visible

ISO16128 - NOI

26

Table 3: Calming Spray for Hypersensitive Skin (MDA-A-181-10)

extract

C

China IECIC 2015

VEGAN

elevated it to an elegant cosmetic ingredient, which addresses one of the big issues of our time, sensitive skin. • Merck – www.merckgroup.com

Out of this

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Offering five unique pigment series, the Moonshine Effect Pigments range showcases quality borosilicate-based effect pigments to give cosmetic formulations the unique and innovative effects desired by the industry. These effects include exceptional intensity and shine at levels not achievable with mica-based effect pigments.

Whether it’s a subtle, silky shimmer, or a bold, intense sparkle, the Moonshine Effect Pigments will no doubt help to achieve cosmetic creations that are out of this world!

The five effect pigment series that make up the Moonshine range are: Moonshine AstralTM Effect Series Moonshine Effect Series Moonshine Ultra Effect Series Moonshine Color Travel Series Moonshine Ultra Color Travel Series Contact us at christien.gordon@croda.com @CrodaPC Croda Personal Care Croda Personal Care croda_personal_care

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SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Multifunctional and sustainable ingredients for skin, hair and cosmetics Over the past 25 years, Natura-Tec has expanded its activities from the production of green vegetable specialties to the development of microalgae extracts and renewable ingredients using ethical manufacturing processes. The company offers plant alternatives to synthetic silicones as well as petrolatums and lanolin, satisfying current trends in clean beauty, vegan friendly and minimalist cosmetics.

Figure 1: UV and sea water protection – 3% Abysoft leaves cuticles in a perfect condition, visibly well-structured and undamaged on the surface

Before

After - without product

After - Placebo

After - with 3% Abysoft

I Essential oils, Carrier oils, Butters & Hydrosols Squalane & Hemisqualane Hyaluronic acid Surfactants: Anionic and Non ionic Olivem 300, Olivem 900 & Olivem 1000 Ecocert approved Preservatives Marine Collagen BTMS, Soy Wax and More..

Speciality Ingredients www.nauticaorganics.com 083 266 2657

f you’re looking for renewable ingredients with multifunctional benefits, the Natura-Tec portfolio includes Abysoft, Plantsil and Rice Starch, which are highly applicable to formulations designed to meet current cosmetics industry trends.

Abysoft being a COSMOS-approved ingredient, enhances the benefits of crambe oil while utilising phytosterol bioactive properties. It creates a protective, long-lasting and velvety film that moisturises effectively. It also increases the rate of hydration by 60% within five days, protecting the cutaneous barrier, causing a minimal amount of greasy residue and without irritating the skin.

In addition, Abysoft preserves the natural vitality of hair, protecting it from mechanical and environmental stress.

It improves hair elasticity and shows a strong conditioning

"Abysoft preserves the natural vitality of hair, protecting it from mechanical and environmental stress" effect with an immediate impact on hair volume. The active demonstrated significant protection against damage caused by high temperature hair straighteners (180°C), as well as UV rays and seawater aggression. Abysoft offers co-emulsifying properties that make it possible to formulate emulsifier-free and palm-free products with an ultra-light and watery texture and which offer comprehensive skin and hair benefits.

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SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

KEY PROPERTIES OF NATURA-TEC ABYSOFT: • sensorial agent providing a velvety film • no greasy residual effect • moisturising agent • co-emulsifier and self-emulsifier • pigment wetting agent • hair enhancer • hair protector • COSMOS approved, palm-free and non-GMO.

Plantsil is a hydrogenated ester derived from olives. Thanks to its excellent penetration and fast spreading properties, Plantsil can perfectly mimic the volatile feel of cyclomethicone.

In shampoo formulations, the mechanism of action of Plantsil is very similar to an actual silicone. Lab evaluations have confirmed its compatibility with common surfactants and co-surfactants, hence Plantsil is recommended as an ideal conditioning agent to replace silicones in hair care products.

MULTIFUNCTIONAL RICE STARCH

Figure 2: Sensorial properties of an emulsion

PLANTSIL COSMETIC EMOLLIENT Providing an alternative solution to silicones and for those formulators looking for novel sustainable ingredients, Plantsil is a cosmetic emollient used in skin and hair applications. It gives an initial sensation of lightness, absorbing quickly, leaving a powdery finish on skin and hair. It also imparts a long-lasting silky satin effect and has a sensorial profile close to silicones, although it is completely vegetable derived.

Reducing the whitening effect of a sunscreen and the oiliness of formulations in general are two of key challenges faced by formulators today. Natura-Tec Rice Starch powder is derived from Oryza sativa rice starch. Depending on the process in which it’s used (i.e. cold or hot), it has two different functions when added to a cosmetic formulation. When introduced at a temperature below 50°C at the end of the emulsion process, Rice Starch provides an extraordinary soft-touch effect. If it’s dissolved in 70°C water, it acts as a gelling agent.

Due to its small particle size (0μm to 10μm), the surface area of the Rice Starch increases significantly, positively impacting absorption.

It offers an ideal solution for decorative cosmetics and is suitable for use in skin and hair care products. Rice Starch is COSMOS and NATRUE approved, as well as GMO-free. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – Charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

New eco-friendly innovation centre for Mane Kancor Inaugurated during a virtual ceremony by president and CEO, Jean Mane, Mane Kancor recently opened a new innovation centre at Kochi in Kerala, India.

The state-of-the-art facility integrates research activities and product development initiatives with the support of expert analytical teams and top-of-the-line technologies.

I

n his inaugural address, Mane said: “As part of our dedicated investments in technologies, corporate workspace, new process plants, IP and new expansion across all our facilities, our commitment to look well ahead into the future necessitated proactive investment in R&D today, for a brighter tomorrow.”

Geemon Korah, director and CEO of Mane Kancor, added: “Sustainability has always been a core focus of Mane Kancor, so the entire facility is completely eco-friendly with the concept of living space. This should encourage constructive and collaborative ideation between the various teams, as well as better interaction and seamless

knowledge sharing, all leading to one goal – innovations and product development.”

A STATE-OF-THE-ART FACILITY The 2 230m3 building is set on a vast stretch of land and is one of the biggest buildings in Mane Kancor’s Angamaly campus in Kochi.

Although Mane Kancor is a pioneer in the field of global spice extracts, it has expanded its R&D efforts to focus natural shelf-life solutions, natural colour solutions, culinary taste solutions, personal care ingredients and nutraceutical products. To support these activities, the new centre has dedicated areas for sophisticated analytical instruments and storage solutions for

raw materials, solvents, control samples, utilities, sample preparation and Mane Kancor’s new pilot facilities. state-of-the-art innovation centre It also houses an exclusive sensory evaluation room, which is supported by a well-trained panel sourced from Mane Kancor’s cross-functional teams, to help set the benchmark and ensure uncompromising quality in every product. •

Mane Kancor – manekancor.com

Trisodium Citrate 5.5Hydrate Advanced Functionalities ◆ Efficient handling ◆ Odorless buffering agent ◆ Ideal for dermatological needs ◆ Preserves and stabilizes cosmetic creams

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceu�cal and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has been opera�ng for 40 years, and is a key player in the complementary medicine manufacturing arena in South Africa.

Hersol manufactures a wide range of products in various dosage forms: including tablets – single and double layer, coated and uncoated (sugar and film coa�ng), effervescent tablets, capsules, powders, topical prepara�ons such as; creams, gels, ointments and lo�ons, syrups and liquids.

Hersol prides itself on quality assured products, which have undergone various compliance checkpoints.

Hersol does in addi�on to the manufacturing of complementary pharmaceu�cal products, also offers Contract Packing.

Pack sizes include 30s, 60s, 120s, 180s and even 200s.

Hersol’s Research and Development Department plays an important role in the development of new products as well as upgrading of current products. We can manage the whole process from concept to final product ready for sale.

Hersol is proud to note that it has a fully accredited Laboratory, with an instrument room with HPLC’s, AA, GC, final product tes�ng equipment, as well as a comprehensive Microbiological laboratory.

Hersol is registered with: • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority • South African Department of Health • South African Pharmacy Council • Health Product Associa�on – HPA • Self Care Associa�on of South Africa • Cosme�cs, Toiletries and Fragrances Associa�on • FDA Food Facility

40 years of excellence

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2 fax: +27 11 614 4615 email: enquiries@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

MenaQ7 K2

– a proven guardian of bone and cardiovascular health

MenaQ7® vitamin K2 was created from a desire to substantially impact people’s health through all stages of life. Years of clinical research have established its safe and effective health benefits, ranging from bone health benefits in children and adults to cardiovascular health benefits in adults. In this article, Dr Hogne Vik, chief medical officer of NattoPharma, explores the clinical validation of this wonder vitamin.

E

very hour in South Africa, five people suffer from a heart attack and ten people have strokes. Of those events, for ten people they will be fatal, according to The Heart and Stroke Foundation South Africa.1 Meanwhile, estimates from the National Osteoporosis Foundation of South Africa show that one in three South African women and one in five South African men could develop osteoporosis within their lifetime – which means potentially between 4m and 6m South Africans suffer from compromised bone health.2 But what if we could simultaneously promote bone health while protecting cardiovascular health simply by taking a vitamin?

Vitamin K2 as MK-7 (menaquinone-7) is a newly-recognised vitamin shown in clinical studies to support bone and cardiovascular health by activating proteins that help the body properly utilise calcium. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to obtain this vital nutrient from diet alone, leaving 97% of the Western

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

population deficient,3 making supplementation a viable alternative.

WHAT IS VITAMIN K2?

It is a family of vitamins comprised of vitamin K1 (phylloquinone) and vitamin K2 (menaquinone).

Phylloquinone and menaquinone share similarities, such as working in the liver for blood clotting. Chemically, they share a quinone ring called menadione. But that is where their similarities end.

" Vitamin K2 as MK-7 is a newly-recognised vitamin shown to support bone and cardiovascular health"

Vitamin K2 has several molecules, called menaquinones, which are available beyond the liver for other systems such as bones and heart. There are actually multiple forms of K2, but the two most common forms as dietary supplements are K2 as MK-4 (menaquinone-4) and K2 as MK-7 (menaquinone-7). Vitamin K2 as MK-7 is superior since it requires a single daily microgram dose and works for 72 hours compared to K2 as MK-4, which requires multiple daily milligram intake and works for only 90 minutes.4, 5

THE K2 MECHANISM Vitamin K2 activates vitamin K-dependent proteins (VKDP) already present in the body.

Most of the research focuses on two VKDPs: • matrix gla protein (MGP) inhibits calcium from depositing in arteries and soft tissues • osteocalcin (OC) binds calcium to the bone mineral matrix for a stronger skeleton and dentin.

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

BETTER BONE HEALTH FOR ALL AGES Vitamin K2’s importance in positively impacting bone health is not limited to adult populations. In fact, various studies have shown it is a noteworthy bone support nutrient for children due to their bones taking shape: • In 2009, healthy children aged six to ten years who took 45mcg of K2 (as MenaQ7®) a day resulted in more active OC, leading to stronger, denser bones.11 • In 2012, children and adults (over the age of 40) expressed the greatest K deficiency and had the strongest response to K2 supplementation (45mcg for children; 90mcg for adults – both as MenaQ7®).12 • In 2013, children and teens given daily doses of MenaQ7® K2 (50mcg) and vitamin D (5mcg calcitriol) showed improvements in bone mineral density.13

Yet, in order for these proteins to do their jobs, they must first be activated by vitamin K2. The more incoming calcium, with no or not enough vitamin K2, the more likely it will be deposited into arterial blood vessels, increasing cardiovascular risks. When the body has enough K2, it accelerates MGP’s activity of transporting incoming calcium out of arteries and boosting OC’s bone remodeling activity. 6, 7

FOOD SOURCES The body cannot synthesise K vitamins (just small levels in the intestine), so people are mainly dependent on regular food intake.

Vitamin K1 is found in leafy green vegetables, such as spinach and kale.

However, K1 from food is very poorly absorbed – only about 10% of it reaches the circulation, meaning a small amount can reach peripheral parts of the body.

Moreover, the liver takes what it needs of K1 with little left for other tissues. Add to this a common misconception that if one eats plenty of green leafy vegetables, they are getting plenty of vitamin K2.

Natural vitamin K2 is produced during bacterial fermentation and is present in foods such as cheese (the most popular Western source). These products contain

"The only vitamin K2 as MK-7 proven to deliver bone and heart support is MenaQ7" relatively small levels, which would require consuming large amounts.

The best source of natural vitamin K2 as MK-7 is the traditional Japanese dish natto. Several studies link natto consumption in Japan to significant improvement in K vitamin’s status and bone health. 8, 9 But the dish is rarely consumed outside of Japan, and there are clear indications that Western populations have insufficient intake of vitamin K2 from their regular diets – so supplementation is a viable alternative.

PROVEN BONE BENEFITS Vitamin K2 supports bone health due to its activation of OC. This has been established in a raft of studies, highlighted by a breakthrough doubleblind, randomised clinical trial published in Osteoporosis International using a specific K2 as MK-7 called MenaQ7® .

The study demonstrated for the first time clinically statistically significant

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

33

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

and female participants with poor K status, as measured by dp-ucMGP (inactive MGP). Regardless of the gender of the participants, the K2 group maintained arterial flexibility and the stiffness did not increase, whereas the placebo group became stiffer and less flexible.17 Vitamin K2 as MK-7 is the only compound to date that has shown to impact arterial calcification through its activation of MGP. Thus, the medical community is beginning to explore it as a potential therapy for patients whose conditions present symptoms of intense calcification.

CONCLUSION Vitamin K2 as MK-7 is a superior vitamin K, safely and effectively delivering benefits for children and adults, serving as an essential companion for calcium supplementation. By implementing this simple nutritional strategy, the population can simultaneously support their bone health while protecting themselves from cardiovascular risks. The only vitamin K2 as MK-7 proven to deliver bone and heart support is MenaQ7®. • REFERENCES: 1. https://www.heartfoundation.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/CVD-StatsReference-Document-2016-FOR-MEDIA-1.pdf 2. https://osteoporosis.org.za 3. Shea MK, et al. Circulating uncarboxylated matrix gla protein is associated with vitamin K nutritional status, but not coronary artery calcium, in older adults. J Nutr.

2011 Aug;141(8):1529-34.

4. Rheaume-Bleue, Kate. 2013. Vitamin K2 and the Calcium Paradox: How a LittleKnown Vitamin Could Save Your Life. Harper; Reprint edition.

5. Howard, Larry M, Payne, Anthony G. 2006. Health Benefits of Vitamin K2: A Revolutionary Natural Treatment for Heart Disease and Bone Loss. 1st edition.

Basic Health Publications, Inc. 6. Schurgers LJ, Cranenburg EC, Vermeer C. 2008. Matrix gla-protein: the calcification inhibitor in need of vitamin K. Thrombosis and Haemostasis, 100(4): 593-603.

7. Tsugawa N, et al. 2006. Vitamin K status of healthy Japanese women: age-related vitamin K requirement for gamma-carboxylation of osteocalcin. Am J Clin Nutr, 83(2): 380-86.

protection of the vertebrae and the hip (femoral neck) against bone loss. This was attained with a nutritional dose (180mcg) of K2 as MK-7 taken daily for three years.

In this study of 244 healthy post-menopausal women, the K2 group showed significantly decreased circulating uncarboxylated OC (ucOC). After three years, both bone mineral content and bone mineral density as well as bone strength were statistically significantly better for the MK-7 group than the placebo group.10

NEWLY-ESTABLISHED CARDIO-PROTECTIVE NUTRIENT The most substantial body of growing evidence shows vitamin K2’s positive impact and support for cardiovascular health.

Previous population-based studies have shown an association between K2 intake and cardiovascular risk.14,15 Still, validation for its cardiovascular benefits culminated with the publication of another three-year study using MenaQ7®, the first intervention trial focused on K2 as MK-7 supplementation with cardiovascular endpoints.

Using the same cohort as the three-year bone study, researchers monitored subjects using pulse wave velocity (PWV) and ultrasound techniques. The participants were randomly assigned to take 180mcg of K2 daily for three years or placebo capsules. Results confirmed that K2 as MK-7 inhibited age‐related stiffening of the artery walls and made an unprecedented statistically significant vascular elasticity improvement.16 These results were corroborated recently in a separate oneyear placebo-controlled randomised clinical trial that showed that 180mcg/day of K2 (MenaQ7®) improved vascular health in male

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8. Kaneki M, et al. Japanese Fermented Soybean Food as the Major Determinant of the Large Geographic Difference in Circulating Levels of Vitamin K2: Possible Implications for Hip-Fracture Risk. Nutrition. 17 (4), 315–321 (2001).

9. Ikeda Y, et al. Intake of Fermented Soybeans, Natto, Is Associated with Reduced Bone Loss in Postmenopausal Women: Japanese Population-Based Osteoporosis (JPOS) Study. J. Nutr. 136 (5), 1323–1328 (2006).

10. K napen MHJ, et al. Three-Year Low-Dose Menaquinone-7 Supplementation Helps Decrease Bone Loss in Healthy Postmenopausal Women. Osteoporosis Int. 24 (9), 2499–2507 (2013).

11. Van Summeren, et al. The effect of menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) supplementation on osteocalcin carboxylation in healthy prepubertal children. Br J Nutr (2009) 102(8): 1171-8.

12. T heuwissen E, et al. Vitamin K Status in Healthy Volunteers. Food Funct.5 (2), 229–234 (2014).

13. O zdemir MA, et al. The Efficacy of Vitamin K2 and Calcitriol Combination on Thalassemic Osteopathy. J. Pediatr. Hematol. Oncol. 35 (8), 623–627 (2013).

14. G eleijnse JM, et al. Dietary intake of menaquinone is associated with a reduced risk of coronary heart disease: the Rotterdam Study. J Nutr. 2004, 134(11):3100-5.

15. G ast GC, et al. A high menaquinone intake reduces the incidence of coronary heart disease. Nutr Metab Cardiovasc Dis. 2009, 19:504-10.

16. K napen MHJ, et al. 2015. Menaquinone-7 Supplementation Improves Arterial Stiffness in Healthy Postmenopausal Women: Double-Blind Randomised Clinical Trial. Thrombosis and Haemostasis, 113(5): 1135-1144.

17. Vermeer C and Vik H. Effect of Menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) on vascular elasticity in healthy subjects: results from a one-year study. 2020 Vascul Dis Ther, 5: doi: 10.15761/VDT.1000179.

MenaQ7® is a registered trademark of NattoPharma

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

A physician by education, Dr Hogne Vik has a long and successful track record in both the pharmaceutical and dietary supplement industries.

He currently serves as the chief medical officer of NattoPharma, a world leader in vitamin K2 research and development and an exclusive supplier of MenaQ7®, the first and best clinically validated vitamin K2 as MK-7 available.

Brenntag SA – www.brenntag.com/en-za NattoPharma – nattopharma.com

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PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS

Case study: How to

reduce GWP impact on GMP freeze-drying processes By retrofitting a new cooling system in an existing freeze dryer, Telstar provided a European manufacturer of parenteral products with a long-term solution that is environmentally-friendly, energyefficient and regulatory-compliant. Lyophilisation technology specialist Sergio Ferrer highlights the details of the project.

I

n the fight against climate change, the pharmaceutical industry is challenged to reduce its carbon footprint. Cooling systems used in industrial freeze dryers are typically a high contaminant due to the presence of high global warming potential (GWP), HFC refrigerants or the use of a huge equivalent of energy consumption such as liquid nitrogen (LN2) technology.

Telstar’s customer, a parenteral product manufacturer, owns three freeze dryers between five to eight years old, with mechanical refrigeration based on R-507A refrigerant gas. Because of the high price increase and the foreseeable shortage of these kinds of refrigerants, together with the manufacturer’s commitment to reduce its carbon footprint, the customer turned to Telstar to replace the refrigerant in its systems with a low-GWP alternative.

A challenge transpired with the system performance requirement, which had to be maintained as the qualified system.

This was non-negotiable and meant that the shelves and condenser cooling ramps would receive special attention.

As the solution, Telstar implemented Arctic, an innovative eco-friendly cooling system that uses natural gases, efficiently resolving the green transition process. Arctic also offers these benefits: • zero ODP and almost zero GWP • high energy efficiency due to frequency inverters • it is easy to upgrade existing installations • maintenance can be done by a refrigeration technician.

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Did you know?

Telstar provides turn-key custommade solutions to solve a customer’s most challenging applications. To ensure the equipment fully satisfies requirements, Telstar undertakes factory acceptance testing of all freeze dryers, simulating as closely as possible the real working conditions.

USER REQUIREMENT SPECIFICATIONS The European manufacturer of parenteral products specified “green technology”, “future-proof regulatory” and “minimum intervention time” as key requirements of the project.

Using a low carbon footprint solution was the primary goal. Telstar’s Arctic cooling system uses natural refrigerants with close to zero GWP. The total charge is optimised using highly efficient, lowvolume heat exchangers. As a result, in the event of a leakage, the greenhouse impact is significantly reduced.

Furthermore, two frequency inverters are used to increase the energy efficiency and in consequence, the cooling capacity.

The implementation of the European F-Gas regulation is a key driver for the present and future refrigerant market. The typical freeze dryer cooling technology is not directly impacted because there is an exemption in Annex III, point 12, for systems working below -50°C. However, high-GWP refrigerant gases are indirectly affected by restrictions on most applications and the market GWP cap

limit, impacting gas availability and price.

Figure 1 shows the average refrigerant GWP to fulfil the new market limit.

A future-proof refrigerant needs to have an as low as possible GWP with a maximum value of 500. As Figure 1 indicates, common R-404A and R-507A alternatives, such as R-448A, R-449A and R-452A have GWP values at around 1 350 and 2 150. This means that in 2024 their values will be 200% or 300% more than the values recommended. The quota reduction of 2021 is starting to come into effect with a new important deadline in 2024. Nonflammable refrigerant suitable for retrofitting in existing installations is not expected.

It’s important to note that the Arctic cooling system uses refrigerants with GWP lower than 10. With this low value, it is expected that future changes to regulations will not restrict its use.

At the time of the request, the customer was in full production, hence the need to reduce the retrofitting time by as much as possible to ensure minimum intervention.

So, Telstar proposed the following: • installing the new system and condenser silicone oil circuit in the technical room located 5m from the main frame of the freeze dryer • bypassing the old cooling system • rerouting the silicone fluid shelves, while silicone flow was maintained with detailed pressure drop calculations and the new selection of heat exchangers • simulating the ice condenser pressure drop and oil distribution to ensure a uniform ice distribution.

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS TECHNICAL SPECS AND SAFETY Typically, the use of flammable gases requires an ATEX-zone classification around the system. Arctic is designed by implementing “intelligent control” and “closed enclosure” as two independent safety measures, eliminating the ATEX requirement. As a result, the customer did not have to define an ATEX zone in the technical room.

For a safe operation, the Arctic cooling box requires continuous fresh air intake from the technical area; an air exhaust conduit to a safe area, typically the rooftop, without any ignition source; and a SAI connection for the safety instrumentation and fan.

The system maintenance can be done by a refrigeration technician.

" It took a total of 20 days to complete the work, followed by the qualification of the equipment"

RETROFITTING ACTIVITIES AND RESULTS

the retrofitting activities commenced. It took a total of 20 days to complete the work, followed by the qualification of the equipment. This was performed showing an invariable result in terms of freeze-dryer capacities. The following outcomes were achieved for this project: • future-proof cooling system with very low GWP • same shelves cooling fluid ramp • higher lowest condenser temperature, yet this is acceptable for the freeze-

Once the customer specifications and scope of the project were understood and well-defined,

drying process • fluid in the condenser, ensuring no condenser area loss in case of a cooling system failure • no ATEX zone.

THE SUSTAINABLE OPTION It is necessary to take measures in today’s global climate crisis. Europe’s decision to move towards a green economy is having a significant impact on the pharmaceutical industry. Current freeze dryers are affected by price increases and shortages of highGWP refrigerants due to F-Gas regulation.

In a fast-changing world, non-natural refrigerant alternatives have been shown to provide a short-term solution, leaving natural refrigerants as the only long-term, sustainable option. Telstar’s Arctic cooling system has proven to be an efficient, safe and future-proof choice for both new and existing freeze dryers. •

Figure 1: F-Gas average GWP

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Sergio Ferrer holds an MEng in industrial engineering from Spain’s Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Ferrer joined Telstar in 2014 as a refrigeration engineer. In 2019 he was promoted to a lyophilisation technology specialist, participating in a wide variety of projects and leading technical improvements. Currently, Ferrer is focused on offering technical support to the sales teams, product manager and project managers at Telstar.

Telstar – www.telstar.com

Simulation coils

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SKIN & FACE CARE

Food for your face!

While the pandemic has given us a different perspective on face masks, it has also emphasised their value as beauty products. This is particularly evident in the growing focus on self-care, which is fuelling demands for new forms of facial care.

F

rom pudding to avocado and chocolate to jam, designing formulations for face masks widens the opportunity to explore creative textures and different sensory aspects. As a departure from traditional sheet masks, convenient wash-off and peel-off formats are enhanced with the Covacryl range of water thickeners from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies (Sensient). The thickeners can be used to mimic various food textures, such as a honey-like texture with long-play time, a rich effect for a creamy texture and even a stringy or quick-break effect is possible to impart an aloe vera-like texture.

Sensient’s avocado face mask (SCT6326 SCF) has a creamy appearance thanks to Serica 100, which also helps to facilitate a uniform application on skin. As a technology product, the Covalumine range offers bright and natural shades.

Thanks to their AS surface treatment, these pigments are easily dispersed in the oil phase. Lastly, Covacryl MV60 is included in the mask to add a velvet touch.

The bouncy yogurt-like texture of the pudding mask (SCT6327 SCF), also referred to as a ringing texture, is obtained by blending Covacryl MV60 in the formula.

In water-based formulations, this special polymer provides a silicone-elastomer like effect with a velvet touch. Skin is left feeling fresh and non-tacky feel.

A concentration of 0.3% Covacryl SP forms a high viscosity transparent aqueous gel with a conditioning texture. The

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"Sensient’s avocado face mask has a creamy appearance Serica 100" blueberry jam colour is matched using Unicert dyes which are globally compliant.

Natpure Xtra Eternity is added to the formulation to improve skin’s barrier function and maintain adequate hydration.

The green tea mud mask (SCT6331 SCF) effectively detoxes and nourishes skin, leaving it feeling is soft and smooth. Its earthy green shade is obtained from a combination of Unipure LC788 and Covarine Charcoal P-WN 9794. Natpure Xtra Longevity is added to stimulate the defence mechanisms and protect against oxidative stress to help maintain a youthful-looking appearance. Thanks to the relatively high concentrations of several active compounds the barrier is strengthen through increased resilience and cell cohesion. Fucosorb WP is added to the mask for an extra soothing effect.

CHOCOLATE, CLAY AND WATERLESS MASKS Easy to spread and super creamy, Sensient’s chocolate on your face mask (SCT6329 SCF) looks good enough to eat. This formulation is based on Natpure Xtra Eternity, which is sourced from cocoa and contains a high concentration of theobromine and caffeine to address signs of ageing. The mask’s rich chocolate brown colour is obtained using a Covarine dispersion. Sensibead Si 175 is added to improve spreadability as well as Hydrofacteur HC, which acts as a natural substitute for natural moisturising factors.

SKIN & FACE CARE

INGREDIENTS TO ADD COLOUR AND TEXTURE Colour is just as important as texture, especially in playful formulations that are food-inspired. For transparent formulas, Sensient recommends Natpure Col natural dyes sourced from vegetables. Available in an extensive range of water- and oilsoluble colours, a Covabsorb UV filter can be added to a formula to improve the colour stability of Sensient’s natural dyes.

Focused on plant extraction, the Natpure Xfine range includes pure vegetable extracts of beetroot, sweet potato, radish, carrot, spirulina and turmeric. These extracts also function as actives and provide colouring power.

Natpure Xtra botanical actives are obtained using Sensient’s water-based proprietary PhytoClean process for a pure, gentle, repeatable extraction of a targeted biomass in a pressure and temperature-controlled water.

All proven to be potent active ingredients, Natpure Xtra Eternity is a cocoa extract, Natpure Xtra Vitality a rosemary extract, Natpure Xtra Integrity a guayusa leaf extract and Natpure Xtra Longevity is the green tea extract.

Did you know?

Prior to the coronavirus pandemic, face masks were primarily known worldwide as beauty products. The application went mainstream on the coattails of K-Pop, as consumers sought to achieve the pure, supple complexion of their Korean heartthrob music stars.

While clay and mud face masks continue to be popular, though they could do with some innovation to deliver new experiences. Consider infusing them with charcoal or any of the natural actives in Sensient’s Natpure Xtra range or you could design a waterless clay face mask.

Anhydrous or waterless formulations were introduced by the cosmetics industry as a means to conserve water. Concerned about water shortages, consumers have become

hooked on the novelty of solid shampoo and conditioner bars e.g., and their improved ecofriendly credentials.

Vegetable charcoal and Oxyde De Zinc Micropur can be added to a waterless face mask for their purifying benefits while the porous silica powder Sensibead SI175 will help to absorb oil and excess sebum. For a shiny pitchblack facial mask, Covarine Charcoal P-WN 9794 should be added to the formulation to give it a unique look. This ingredient also deep cleans skin removing impurities and unclogging the pores. To strengthen the barrier and increased skin’s resilience, Natpure Xtra Vitality promotes cell cohesion while protecting skin from external factors such as pollution. • Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

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SKIN & FACE CARE

Protectors of stressed and sensitive skin Skin sensitivity and its symptoms, such as redness, itching, stinging and burning sensations, have become a primary skin care concern among consumers globally.

On Instagram, there are over 1.2m posts with the hashtag #sensitiveskin. On TikTok, the same hashtag has 210.1m views. In this article, we explore CareActives from Provital Group developed specifically for formulations in the sensitive skin category.

S

ensitive skin is not a trend, but rather a skin condition that

has always existed – it’s just become more prevalent in recent years with the growing demand for new, targeted solutions that meet the needs of sensitive and reactive skin.

Provital is a company based in Barcelona, Spain, which offers range of ingredients for various applications.

The company is represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals.

IMPROVE SENSITIVE SKIN WITH CARESOFT Sensitive skin is delicate, vulnerable and prone to atopy.1 Because of its higher-than-normal pH, when exposed to irritating products, solar radiation or mechanical stress, sensitive skin recovers slower than skin with an acidic pH. 2 Building on Behne and Choi’s scientific evidence on the role of the membrane protein NHE1, in regulating intracellular pH, 3 Provital created Caresoft with the goal to improve sensitive skin. Caresoft is a purified fraction of the roots of Curculigo orchioides which is rich in total sugars and curculigosides. Curculigo roots have a long history of use in traditional Chinese medicine for treating itchy and diseased skin as well as cuts and wounds. 4 According to Provital, Caresoft acts on the internal control mechanism of skin’s pH by regulating the NHE1 protein. This helps to speed up the barrier repair process and reduces skin’s reactivity and sensitivity.

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The efficacy of the active ingredient has been determined in an extensive

by repeated shaving, are not suitable for their intended purpose.

in vitro study on human keratinocytes, followed by a clinical (in vivo) study where several parameters were tested, revealing the following results: • a 65% reduction in the incidence of sensitive skin and skin reactivity • a 25% decline in skin’s reaction time to an irritant substance in volunteers who remained positive at the end of the study • skin surface pH decreased by 0.04 pH units • a 13% improvement in epidermal barrier protection against external factors • 20% faster barrier recovery.

Caresoft is ideal for formulations designed specifically for sensitive skin, such as baby care, genital hygiene, makeup and men’s and women’s skin products as it acts from within to reduce external damage.

According to a survey of more than 2 000 women by the British Association of Beauty Therapists and Cosmetology, women shave their underarms on average three times a week and their legs twice a month. Only 1% of the women surveyed claimed to never shave their underarms. These statistics reveal there is also huge potential in the market for post-shave soothing products for women.

ALLEVIATE MECHANICAL STRESS EFFECTS WITH DERMASOOTH Our skin protects us from exposure to chemical and physical agents, such as solar radiation, pollution, fabrics and detergents. It also protects us from exposure to mechanical stress, which can be voluntary, such as shaving and epilation, or involuntary, like chafing.

According to the International Dermal Institute, around 79% of men who shave experience some sort of skin concern after shaving.

They also believe that post-shaving cosmetic products designed to soothe sensitisation and inflammation caused

"Dermasooth accelerates skin recovery after the aggression of shaving or epilation" It is for this reason that Provital created a specific active ingredient to reduce the negative effect of shaving, soothing skin by reducing inflammation and irritation while strengthening the skin’s protective barrier. Dermasooth, a natural complex containing tulsi, lady’s thistle and Enteromorpha compressa active fractions, alleviates the processes that cause skin irritation.

CATERING TO MECHANICALLY STRESSED SKIN With shaving or any other form of mechanical stress, skin cells activate

SKIN & FACE CARE

phospholipase A2, a key enzyme in inflammatory processes, which initiates the synthesis of prostaglandins and leukotrienes through cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase. Moreover, cytokine, histamine and serotonin levels increase.

As a result of these cellular responses, vascular permeability and blood flow are increased, allowing leukocyte migration to the inflammation site which defends the body from foreign substances or infectious agents. 5 If inflammation is reduced, the negative cycle will not be initiated, facilitating skin recovery.

Due to its ursolic acid and silymarin content, Dermasooth participates in anti-inflammation mechanisms inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis and histamine release, in addition to functioning as a cell membrane protector, which prevents interaction with agents that cause

irritation. Its efficacy in these areas has been established in in vitro and in vivo studies.

In vivo study results showed Dermasooth produces an anti-irritant effect, reducing basal inflammation.

It also reduces the intensity of the immediate irritation caused by shaving.

A positive effect in this regard was visible by day seven of treatment with a 6.7% difference between the active ingredient and placebo and after 14 days of treatment, a 7.8% difference was visible. Lastly, Dermasooth accelerates skin recovery after the aggression of shaving or epilation. • REFERENCES: 1. Hatano, 2009; Sparavigna, 2006; Eberlein-König, 2000 2. Behne, 2002 3. Behne 2002; Choi, 2007 4. Joy, 2004 5. De Cassia 2013

Provital Group – www.weareprovital.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART

RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE – QUALITY DRIVEN

From basic ingredients to specialty actives for key application areas Sun Care | Skin Care | Hair Care | Baby Care | Hygiene | Oral Care Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 551 5353

Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za

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SKIN & FACE CARE

Remodelling skin from within Maintaining a youthful appearance is one of the main ageing concerns. As the skin ages, a progressive disorganisation of the dermal structure occurs which is responsible for reduced firmness and tonicity. Face and body contours lose their definition and the décolleté and neck areas become wrinkled. Gattefossé provides a solution to recover proper cutaneous density, in the form of an active ingredient derived from Acmella oleracea, a traditional plant sourced in South Africa and Madagascar. By Laurie Canel, product marketing leader – actives personal care, at Gattefossé

A

long with moisture, antiageing remains a key claim in the facial care category. Besides wrinkles, lack of cutaneous firmness arises quite early.

Throughout women’s life, successive events damage skin tonicity, such as motherhood, hormone imbalance, diet and chronological ageing.

Physiologically, the cause can be found in the dermis, which no longer ensures its supportive role.

The alteration of the function of the fibroblasts causes a progressive disorganisation of the dermal structure and is responsible for reduced firmness and tonicity.

The face is obviously concerned but other anatomical areas also suffer. The décolleté, a sign of femininity and an often-exposed area, becomes “crepey” with small creases appearing in a V-shape, from the birth of the breast to the neck. The body contours lose their definition, the skin no longer seems tense and it shows a withered appearance.

EDIBLE PLANT WITH ANTIAGEING PROPERTIES At Gattefossé, botany is a fascinating fieldwork for scientists. Popular usages of plants are a constant source of inspiration. Acmella oleracea, a flower used in traditional cuisine and medicine, has caught botanists’ attention.

This small annual plant can be found in many tropical and sub-tropical regions of the world, such as Africa,

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Day 0

Day 28

Figure 1: Gatuline In-Tense MB demonstrated robust body remodelling efficacy with skin on the neck appearing more youthful after one month

America, North Australia, India and Sri Lanka. The plant is mainly cultivated and harvested for cooking and traditional medicine. The flowers are specifically renowned for their spicy taste and are consequently used as a condiment by local people in soups, salads or stews.

Besides cooking, Acmella oleracea has a long history of use in traditional medicine as a pain reliever. The flower heads can be chewed as a remedy for toothache. The plant has also been shown to be effective in the treatment of headaches and sore throats. Its anaesthetic and antiseptic properties make the plant a favoured solution for the treatment of seasonal infections such as flu or fever.

Based on these observations, Gattefossé developed Gatuline In-Tense MB, an oily extract from the flower of the Acmella plant, concentrated in alkylamides.

Purification by molecular distillation enables the extract to be enriched with these powerful phytomolecules.

The plant used in the composition of the ingredient is native to the western Indian Ocean region. Two partners in South Africa and Madagascar have been designated to oversee the selective and manual harvest of the flowers.

A TARGETED SOLUTION FOR FACE AND BODY FIRMING To bring back firmness and smoothness, it is essential to reinforce the dermis structure by stimulating fibroblast biomechanical functions. Gatuline In-Tense MB perfectly ensures this activity. It acts deeply in the skin in the extra-cellular matrix, boosting the cellular dynamism and the fibroblasts’ contractile power. This property has been evaluated in vitro on a 3D model of living artificial dermis in a GlasBoxPlus device.

Did you know?

There are many nicknames for Acmella oleracea . In French, it is known as “cresson de para”, in English it’s called “para cress” and in the Indian Ocean region, people refer to it as “mafane”.

SKIN & FACE CARE Day 0

efficacy of the ingredient. Firming, toning, smoothing and wrinkle removal effects, accompanied by an overall improvement of skin quality and comfort, were observed.

RESTORED FACE AND NECK SMOOTHNESS

Day 0

Figure 2: 3D images show a significant reduction in the surface, length and volume of fine lines and wrinkles on the décolleté area Day 28

This device quantifies the forces developed by fibroblasts in order to determine their tightening effect. The results highlight a clear stimulation of the contractile power of the fibroblasts in the presence of Gatuline In-Tense MB (18% versus the control, untreated condition).

The active provides robust support to the collagen fibre network, which is key for the recovery of the necessary cutaneous density.

"The active provides robust support to the collagen fibre network, which is key for the recovery of the necessary cutaneous density"

Day 28

Day 56

Day 56

The efficacy of Gatuline In-Tense MB has also been assessed clinically on multiple parts of the face and body. Various evaluation techniques and instrumental measurements were used to highlight the Day 0

Day 56

Figure 3: Cutometry analysis shows Gatuline In-Tense MB significantly limits skin extensibility, providing increased firmness and tonicity to the body

In the initial in vivo study, twice daily applications of a cream containing 2% Gatuline In-Tense MB showed rapid anti-wrinkle and skin smoothing properties on women with mature skin. Crow’s feet wrinkles were immediately reduced in terms of surface, length and volume, from the very first day of use (laser profilometry measurements).

In the second trial, Gatuline In-Tense MB was tested at 1% by women between the ages of 50- to 70-years old. The ingredient demonstrated a robust efficacy on body remodelling.

On the neck, skin appeared more youthful after one month (see Figure 1). Clinical scoring confirms a statistically significant 12% reduction of the crinkled aspect of the neck.

A BOOST OF FIRMNESS FOR DÉCOLLETÉ AND BODY Available in South Africa from Carst & Walker, Gatuline In-Tense MB reduces the “crepey” appearance of the décolleté, helping it to appear smoother and softer.

Analysis of the décolleté wrinkles by 3D acquisitions obtained by fringe projection reveal a significant reduction in the surface, length and volume of fine lines and wrinkles in this area (see Figure 2). These results were confirmed by a trained assessor, who noted a 19% reduction in the crumpled appearance of the décolleté.

Lastly, at the arm level, cutometry analysis showed Gatuline In-Tense MB significantly limited skin extensibility, providing increased firmness and tonicity to the body. These visible improvements were also confirmed by the panellists themselves (see Figure 3). They noted an 11% improvement in the bouncy effect on their arms and felt 24% more tonicity after one month.

These results make Gatuline In-Tense MB a tailor-made solution for products formulated for remodelling facial contours or for firming and body sculpting treatments. It can also be used in more specialised applications, such as makeup or sun care with anti-ageing properties. •

Carst & Walker – carst.co.za Gattefosse – www.gattefosse.com

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PACKAGING

The power of RFID to transform supply chains and enable patient safety

The far-reaching benefits of digital ID technologies such as RFID are already evident in retail, manufacturing and logistics environments. RFID is also useful in healthcare because it enables richer, one-to-one communication with patients. By documenting and communicating the ‘who, what and where’ of any item, RFID can dramatically enhance patient safety, brand protection, inventory management, operational efficiency, regulatory compliance, and more – all of which are crucial during the pandemic as COVID-19 continues to place extreme pressure on healthcare systems.

A

recent Avery Dennison survey revealed that 63% of respondents believe COVID-19 has brought supply chain behaviours into sharper focus. The survey was conducted among more than 700 C-suite executives and other business leaders in global retail, logistics and supply chain industries. At a time when supply chain visibility, product authentication and touchless transactions are more important than ever, Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) offers a compelling, multifaceted and cost-effective solution.

Simply put, RFID capabilities can be added to virtually any item by embedding an RFID inlay into a traditional pressure-sensitive label and applying it to an item. RFID inlays contain a microchip for storing data and an antenna for sending and receiving data via a radio signal.

Signals are transmitted to a handheld or fixed RFID reader, which collects data and relays it to a mobile application or online database, where it can be monitored and analysed.

Tagging any item with RFID technology gives it a unique digital ID and a ‘digital twin’, which can be tracked and traced online via inventory management applications or other software.

This provides dramatically improved visibility of supply chains and inventories by enabling users to track any item, anywhere, and to view it in real-time. RFID can also turn any object into a portal for communication with consumers – or, in the case of healthcare, with patients.

Unlike barcodes, RFID tags do not require line-of-sight reading, which makes them more reliable and enables hundreds of tagged items to be logged in a single scan. RFID tags offer additional advantages over barcodes,

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including greater durability, the capacity to store and deliver more data, the ability to confirm a product’s authenticity, and a higher level of security with chips that can be password protected and whose data can be encrypted.

RFID technology encompasses active and passive versions, with radio frequencies varying from low to ultra-high. This White Paper focuses on the application of passive, ultra-high-frequency (UHF) and near-field communication (NFC) RFID, which are the types best suited to pharmaceutical and healthcare applications.

Did you know?

RFID helps users to identify products discovered in grey markets and pinpoints where in the supply chain diversion occurred.

RFID FOR HEALTHCARE Perhaps more than any other industry, healthcare can benefit from the itemlevel visibility provided by RFID, for one simple reason: patient health is at stake.

Accuracy and speed of operations are critical. Pharmaceuticals, medical devices, instruments, blood bags, tissue samples and more can all be better managed across their sprawling journeys from their source through shipping to any number of pharmacies, hospitals, doctors’ offices, operating rooms, labs and patients’ homes.

RFID improves identification, monitoring, controlling and documenting. It helps to prevent human errors – improving accuracy in the distribution of medicine to more than 99% – while increasing the level of ‘touchless’ processes crucial to stemming the spread of pathogens during a pandemic like COVID-19. It also helps to save lives by giving clinicians essential real-time information at a glance.

A SOLUTION FOR PHARMA COMPANIES RFID can provide vastly improved supply chain management and inventory control, presenting anytime-anyplace traceability with visibility right down to the dose in the case of vaccines and other drugs sold in syringes.

It offers effective tools for product authentication and tamper-resistance. It can help better document and communicate regulatory compliance and can help monitor temperature and other conditions to ensure drug quality with passive RFID sensors.

RFID gives drug makers and pharmacists more effective ways of communicating about correct product use, enabling improved patient compliance. NFC applications in particular, enable a range of digital services, including channels for patient feedback, recall information and interactive instructions, all available on a patient’s smartphone and triggered by the NFC inlay in product packaging.

PACKAGING

IMPROVE PATIENT COMPLIANCE AND EXPERIENCE Despite the printed instructions that accompany medications and devices, patient compliance is estimated at somewhere around 50%, according to 2018 information published by the United States’ National Center for Biotechnology. Yet it can be improved with RFID NFC technology. Makers of medications and devices can provide richer instructions (in video format, for example) using RFID NFC. This technology also supports ongoing two-way communication with patients to ensure they’re using their medicine or device correctly, ultimately leading to improved patient outcomes.

Tagging products with RFID enables the tracking of any individual product at any time, allowing better and faster order fulfilment. It also provides invaluable intelligence on product levels at customer sites, facilitating predictive ordering and supply.

IMPROVED WELLBEING OF PATIENTS The time and labour needed to track inventories and manage expiry can be dramatically reduced when equipment and supplies are RFID-enabled. It also helps to ensure that the right supplies are on hand.

Where an extra level of security is required, RFID helps to regulate who has access to supplies and it indicates tampering.

Because every tagged item has a unique digital identity, RFID can play a critical role in reducing human error, allowing every item to be accounted for by tracking its unique ID. Some of the most important benefits of RFID, as described by Avery Dennison in this White Paper, add up to its primary advantage and the chief aim of healthcare itself: to improve patient safety and wellbeing.

IMPROVED SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT

"Healthcare can benefit from the item-level visibility provided by RFID, for one simple reason: patient health is at stake" is both immediately actionable and informative for future planning.

MANAGE INVENTORIES MORE EFFICIENTLY For makers of pharmaceuticals and medical supplies, RFID improves centralised inventory management by revealing, at a glance, product levels at any location. For pharmacies and healthcare organisations, RFID transforms manual inventory management from a timeand labour-intensive process into one that can be performed in a fraction of the time.

Having greater insight into product stock levels allows pharmacies and healthcare organisations to better ensure a ready supply of critical medications, devices and equipment, while allowing suppliers to better anticipate customers’ needs.

EXPIRY MANAGEMENT According to Kit Check, a provider of RFID-based automated solutions to the pharmaceutical and healthcare industries, 10% to 20% of medications in a typical hospital pharmacy kit are incorrect or expired. RFID can enable automatic monitoring of expiration dates of medication and supplies, as well as provide automated alerts on items nearing their shelf lives. Deployed in the ‘smart cabinet’ developed

by IdentifyRFID, Avery Dennison RFID tags are helping to remove the guesswork, waste and risk from medical supply companies and hospitals throughout Thailand.

Tagging any item with RFID technology enables it with a unique digital ID and digital twin

Health Organization estimates revenues from counterfeit medicines at about $200bn, amounting to 10% to 15% of the value of the global pharmaceutical market.

Annually, roughly 1m people die from taking counterfeit medicines. RFID can help meet increasing demands from regulators and patients for the assurance of product authenticity and integrity. A simple scan with an RFID reader or mobile phone immediately tells a user whether a product is authentic and safe to use. Combined with blockchain records, RFID tagging can provide brands and patients with a complete, secure and easily accessible proof of a product’s provenance and a map of its entire supply chain journey.

TAMPER-PROOFING PRODUCT AUTHENTICATION Counterfeit drugs account for the largest fraudulent market in the world. The World

Results of a recent survey conducted by Avery Dennison show that 55% of C-suite executives and other leaders believe that digital technologies can solve their big supply chain issues. Their confidence is hardly surprising – by giving every item a unique digital identity, RFID enables users to track and trace thousands of products in real-time down to the individual unit or dose, across complex supply chains, and in inventories anywhere worldwide, providing reliable information that

Certain RFID inlay designs provide an additional circuit that can be looped around the closure of a medication container or medical device,

Avery Dennison Smartrac Minidose is widely used in pharmaceutical packaging

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PACKAGING

"RFID enables companies to quickly identify counterfeit drugs and where tampering with packaging has occurred"

RFID can play a critical role in reducing human error in a healthcare setting

which sends a signal when the closure is opened. Makers and users can easily see if a package has been opened prior to legitimate use. Smartrac’s Circus Tamper Loop signals when a package is opened or closed, enabling a package’s tamper-detection status to be checked at any point in the value chain with the tap of a smartphone.

FASTER, MORE PRECISE RECALLS Recalls of medications and medical devices are time-consuming and costly and usually involve wholesale removal of a product from the market to isolate the relatively small number that are potentially harmful.

Most hospitals have to deal with an average of four significant recalls a year, which can cost up to $12 000 in staff time, including unscheduled overtime. By providing visibility across the entire supply chain, RFID makes recalls faster and more precise, allowing users to immediately locate and remove only the affected items. RFID also enables companies to quickly identify counterfeit drugs and where tampering with packaging has occurred.

in pharmaceutical logistics. Regulators also require proof that temperature-sensitive medical cargo is transported and stored in the proper conditions. Passive RFID sensors enable reliable, efficient temperature-sensing and logging across manufacture, transport and storage, to ensure product integrity.

By documenting product custody, product temperature and more, RFID makes it easier to capture data required by regulators and to ensure regulatory adherence throughout a product’s lifecycle. • Avery Dennison – rfid.averydennison.com/ il.team@ap.averydennison.com

RFID enables users to track and trace thousands of products in real-time down to the individual unit or dose

TEMPERATURE AND QUALITY MONITORING Medications, medical devices and biological components like plasma, organs and tissue are sensitive to temperature, humidity and other environmental factors. Yet they must often endure fluctuating conditions across the supply chain.

Losses from vaccines exposed to temperatures outside their recommended range are estimated at around $34.1bn annually, including product cost, the cost of replacement and wasted logistics outlay.

This is according to an analysis by the International Air Transport Association’s Center of Excellence for Independent Validators

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

By scanning an RFID tag with a mobile phone, a user can instantly confirm a product’s authenticity and safety

Passive RFID sensors enable reliable, efficient temperature-sensing and logging to ensure a product’s integrity

ASSOCIATION NEWS

AMA Golf Day in full swing

T

he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (AMA) Golf Day roared back to form and substance on 15 September at The Country Club, Woodmead, Sandton.

Golfers took to the Rocklands Course, previously ranked 50 th in South Africa and now ranked 35th, to put their skills to the test.

The golf day was followed by the awards dinner, which offered players and industry professionals a great networking opportunity. This year, the dinner returned to the great country club buffet fare paired with Mulderbosch Faithful Hound red wine sponsored by NCP Alcohols.

The evening was thoroughly enjoyed by everyone who attended.

The AMA thanks all the sponsors for their generous contributions

to the golf day. The sponsors included Nampak DivFood, PureGas, Precision Global, Khaya International Packaging, Q20, Metcan Manufacturing, Gas Piping Services, Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review, Chemlink Aerosol Contract Packers, Prime Product Manufacturing, and Great Africa Hair Company.

Initial Planning is already underway for the 2022 AMA Golf Day, which will be hosted once again at The Country Club in Woodmead.

The exciting news is in 2023, the AMA Golf Day will move to Sun City as the host venue, with more details to follow soon. •

The Precision Valve South Africa team

Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association – www.aerosol.co.za

2021 AMA GOLF DAY HIGHLIGHTS • Winning fourball: Paul Canter, Lee Ramsden, Robin Rigney and Steve Bailey of the Precision Valve South Africa team • Best dressed team: The Chemlink team, which included Richard Hallam, Nick Henning, Peter Devenish and Micko Mammote • Nearest to the hole: Lynnette Powell of the ladies’ team

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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ASSOCIATION NEWS

Coschemcelebrates the success of its first virtual conference

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists South Africa (Coschem) hosted its inaugural virtual scientific conference on 8 and 9 September, in conjunction with MGG Productions, via live feed. The event was a huge success with local and international experts sharing their wealth of knowledge and expertise with its members. The scientific committee, chaired by Beverley Gardner and co-chair Wayne van Wyk, are proud of the final production and outcome of the event.

B

everley Gardner was the MC of the conference and brought a great deal of fresh energy to the two-day event.

Apart from the high-level scientific content, this year’s conference programme featured some exciting new elements, which included two panel discussions and an interview with a local brand owner.

Upon deciding on topics for the two panel discussions, it was almost non-negotiable to have one of them centred on sun care. The reason for this being the recent negative media coverage on certain sunscreen products as well as concerns in the scientific community after the release of troubling papers regarding organic sunscreen chemicals entering the human bloodstream via the skin. Ultimately, the question was posed: “what does the future hold for sun filters in sun care products”?

To field these questions, Coschem was privileged to have experts in the fields of testing and formulating sun care products in South Africa take part in the debate. The panel consisted of Heibrie Le Roux, MD and founder of Future Cosmetics CC, who joined the discussion in studio; Marlize Lategan, chief technical officer of the Photobiology Laboratory at Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University; Beverley Summers, professor of pharmacy at Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University and Wayne van Wyk, managing director of Vantage Specialty Chemicals & Cosmetic Technologies. The panel discussion was led by Beverley Gardner and supported by current Coschem president, Charmaine du Preez and co-chairperson Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals.

SUN CARE PANEL DEBATE The discussion kicked off with the elephant in the room – the recent claims of carcinogenic chemical, benzene, being found in sunscreen products owned by reputable global brands.

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Although the incident didn’t occur in South Africa, it is still relevant to discuss in terms of the toxicology of sun care products and whether or not the incident was isolated.

Mineral sunscreens, namely titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, were discussed in some detail and whether future products would contain more of these as opposed to organic sun filters. The safety of chemical sun filters was discussed, particularly components such as octocryline and benzophenone and whether they can be replaced, while keeping sunscreen products broad spectrum (without losing protection for certain wavelengths of UV).

Interesting questions from delegates were addressed, like: “is it true that SPF 50 products only give slightly more protection than SPF 30 products for instance?”, which was beautifully answered from two different perspectives by Prof Beverley Summers and Heibrie. The question of why we don’t consider colour cosmetics more often for sun protection was raised and although this is a good point, perhaps South African men are not quite ready for this. Overall, the panel discussion was insightful, important and very well answered by all participants.

NATURAL PANEL DEBATE The second panel discussion focussed on issues surrounding the terminology “natural” with expert panellists discussing whether there “is a place for natural raw materials in South African formulations”.

Interesting questions were raised by the attendees on how sustainable it is to grow these raw materials. The panellists also debated the challenges faced when using or producing these ingredients, which include regulatory challenges.

The second point they discussed was “whether natural ingredients are inherently better than synthetic ingredients”. The

consensus was that there is a place for both types of ingredients and it does not always mean natural is better than synthetic.

The panel included Will Coetsee of Botanica Natural Products; Dershana Jackison of CTFA; John Knowlton of Cosmetic Solutions; Namrita Lall of the University of Pretoria; Charis Lewis of Investchem; and Wayne Robertson of Pharmaceutical Marketing Consulting.

LOCAL BRAND OWNER INTERVIEW Beverley Gardner interviewed Dr Theo Mothoa-Frendo, the founder and CEO of African Dermal Science, which owns the successful brand Uso Skincare – a winner of two awards in the 2019 P&C Review New Product Competition). Dr Theo is a medical doctor, pharmaceutical expert and holds an MBA from GIBS. During the interview, Dr Theo spoke of her three-year journey to starting the Uso range of skin care products, which are designed and formulated specifically to meet the needs of ethnic skin. The range consists of six products sold through various e-commerce platforms and in Edgars stores in South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. As a proudly South African brand, Uso makes South Africa proud in meeting the previously unmet skin care needs of ethnic consumers. As a result, Dr Theo has plans to grow Uso into an international brand.

Following the natural panel debate, the conference was officially closed by Coschem vice president, Liesl Keulder, who thanked all the presenters for their professional presentations. She also thanked the scientific committee for organising a successful conference, the delegates for attending online and the sponsors for their generous contributions. • Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS

1

3 1: Charis Lewis and Beverley Gardner interviewing Dr Theo Mothoa-Frendo 2: Natural panel discussion with Will Coetsee, John Knowlton and Wayne Robertson on screen and Liesl Keulder, Beverley Gardner, Dershana Jackison and Charis Lewis in studio 3: The sun care debate with Jacques Strydom, Marlize Lategan, Prof Beverley Summers and Wayne van Wyk on screen, and Charmaine du Preez, Beverley Gardner and Heibrie Le Roux in studio 4: Liesl Keulder, Liesl Keulder, Dershana Jackison and Charis Lewis 5: Behind the scenes at MGG Productions

2

4 5

AN OVERVIEW OF THE CONFERENCE PROGRAMME AND PRESENTERS DAY 1 Session 1 Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa and Charmaine du Preez, AECI Specialty Chemicals, South Africa • Welcome Address: Charmaine du Preez, Coschem president 2021 • Reducing Symptoms related to Eczema using Succulents by Marizé Nel, University of Pretoria • Silicium in Skin by Emmanuel Coste, Exsymol, Italy • The Hydration Conundrum and the 48hour Scramble by Prof Beverley Summers, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa Session 2 Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner and Kim MacCallum, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, South Africa • Fight Against Digital Ageing – Blue Light Protection by Marina Lefort, Merck, Germany • Simple Stabilisers or Powerful Allies for Skin Appearance: The True Face of Emulsifiers by Sophie Cambos, Seppic Research & Innovation, France • Beneficial Impact of Heat – Treated Probiotic Lactobacillus Plantarum HEAL 19 on Health & the Microbiome of Dry Sensitive & Flaky Scalp by Lėa Schmidt, Symrise, France • Unlocking the Potential of Cannabidiol for Oily Skin and Scalp Treatment by Joan Gonzalez, Infinitec, Spain Session 3 Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner and Jacques Strydom, AECI Specialty Chemicals, South Africa

• Sun Care Debate: What does the future hold for sun filters in sun care products?

Panel: Heibrie Le Roux, Future Cosmetics, South Africa; Marlize Lategan and Beverley Summers, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa; and Wayne van Wyk, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, South Africa • L Ergothioneine, The Natural and Desirable Companion of Ascorbic Acid by Herve Offredo, Barnet Products, USA • The Effectiveness of LOC/LCO Method on Moisture Locking in Textured Hair and Its Impact on Breakage and Other Hair Properties by Ernesta Malinauskyte, TRI Princeton, USA

DAY 2 Session 4 Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner and Sapphirah Phala, Symrise, South Africa • A New Formulation lever to get an Attractive Tan with only a Daily Exposure

by Pauline Chanut, Seppic Research & Innovation, France • Evaluation of some Environmental Factors on Skin Ageing: From Cellular Impact to Skin Enhancement by Cyrielle Rakotovao, Sederma, France • Selected High Performance Innovation for Beautiful Hair: Hair Loss Prevention and Anti-Greying, Hydration & Sebum Reduction Featuring an organic plant extract, a vitamins complex, and a Sugar derivative by Olivier Garet, DSM Nutritional Products, France Session 5 Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner and Charis Lewis, Investchem, South Africa • Himanthalia Elongata, the Marine Ingredient with the Power to Correct

Dark Spots on all Skin Complexion Types by Frederic Serres, Givaudan, France • Flower-Powered Conditioning: A Sustainable New Cationic Surfactant

by Lucie Maisonneuve, Stepan Company, France • Interview with South African Brand Owner, Dr Theo Mothoa-Frendo, Uso Skincare, South Africa Session 6 Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner and Liesl Keulder, Cirebelle, South Africa • Corn-Derived Bio Polymer in Hair Styling by Vinayak Rupnar, Dow Chemicals, Dubai • Next Generation Green Dandruff Control by Bernd Heinken, Symrise, Germany • The Benefits of a Functional Vehicle Specifically Developed for personalized Acne Treatments

by Hudson Polonini, Fagron, The Netherlands • Natural Panel Discussion: Is there a place for natural raw materials in South African formulations and are natural ingredients inherently safer than synthetic ingredients?

Panel: Will Coetsee, Botanica Natural Products, South Africa; Dershana Jackison, CTFA, South Africa; John Knowlton, Cosmetic Solutions, South Africa Namrita Lall, University of Pretoria, South Africa; Charis Lewis and Wayne Robertson, Pharmaceutical Marketing Consulting Group, South Africa • Closing Address: Liesl Keulder, vice president Coschem 2021 (Cirebelle, South Africa)

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // OCTOBER 2021

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Tea

time Take a breather

>>>

WORD SEARCH

Lights, Camera, Action!

Find and circle all of the movie-related terms that are hidden in the grid. The remaining letters spell a quote from Audrey Hepburn.

ACTRESS ADAPTATION ARTIST BACKDROP BASED ON A BOOK BLOCKBUSTER CAR CHASE CAST CHILDREN’S CLAYMATION CLIFFHANGER SPACER COMPOSER CREDITS DIGITAL

DIRECTOR DISASTER EDITING FICTION FILM NOIR FLOP FOREIGN FRANCHISE GENRE HISTORICAL HOLLYWOOD MAKEUP NATURE PRODUCER REMAKE

SCENE SCORE SCREENPLAY SCREWBALL COMEDY SCRIPT SLAPSTICK SOUND EFFECTS SUPERHERO SUPPORTING ACTOR SUSPENSE THEME SONG VILLAIN WAR WESTERN

To advertise in

contact

Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX AECI Specialty Chemicals..................29........www.natura-tec.com

Nautica Organic Trading ...................28........www.nauticaorganics.com

Avery Dennison................................. OBC........rfid.averydennison.com

Nautilus Chemicals .............................30 .......info@nautiluschemicals.co.za

Botanica Natural Products ..............23........https://botanica.africa Brenntag South Africa.......................IFC........www.brenntag.com/en-za/ CJP Chemicals .......................................15........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals................. 41........www.savannah.co.za

Croda SA .................................................27........https://www.crodapersonalcare.com/

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies ...39........www.sensient-cosmetics.com

Future Cosmetics ................................19........www.futurecosmetics.co.za

Society Of Cosmetic Chemists SA.... 7........www.coschem.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Lab ...............31........www.hersol.co.za IMCD SA................................................OFC .......www.imcdgroup.com

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Rettenmaier South Africa (JRS)......17........www.jrspersonalcare.de

Vantage Specialty Chemicals...........26........www.vantagegrp.com

Merck........................................................25........www.merckgroup.com

Vega Controls SA .................................35........www.vega.com/vegabar

Moco Packaging ..................................... 9........www.mocopack.co.za

Wacker......................................................18........www.wacker.com/belsileco

OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

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Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

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QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

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www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK